What's On Connemara visitors guide September 2023

You’ve made it this far – now, let us take you even further into the heart of Connemara.

Since 2005, it’s been our privilege to help visitors plot a course through the colours, textures and flavours of our wild and beautiful home.

Whether a first-timer or seasoned voyager, we hope these pages will open up all the region has to offer – from its natural splendour to the vibrancy of its people.

Without further ado, we invite you to take a deep breath of Atlantic air and come with us into the heart of Connemara. Happy travels, Jonathan and Amanda.

The best of traditional Irish music, song and dance

live music

KYLEMORE ABBEY

LOCATE VENUE # 49 CONNEMARA MAP

SATURDAY – SUNDAY

1pm Traditional Irish music and serene harp melodies in the stunning Neo-Gothic church

EJ KINGS BAR, CLIFDEN

LOCATE VENUE # 43 CLIFDEN MAP

MONDAY

9:30pm Traditional music with Alex Sun and friends

TUESDAY

9:30pm Mix of Trad, Folk and Country with Liam and Shona

WEDNESDAY

9:30pm Acoustic, Blues, Alternative Country and Roots with Mattie and Sean

THURSDAY

9:30pm Rock, Blues and Country Classics with Sean and Noel

FRIDAY

10pm Blues Rock, Alt Country, Originals with The Monday Club

SATURDAY

10pm Rock Agus Roll with The Haloran Bro’s

SUNDAY

8pm Traditional Irish Acoustic and Bodhran with Sean and Odi

MC GRATH’S BAR, CLIFDEN

9pm Traditional and Folk music from resident local and guest musicians, toe tapping stuff

FRIDAY

9pm Folk and Traditional music from resident local and guest musicians, the stuff for toe tapping

SATURDAY

10pm Live touring bands, banging out Rock & Roll to Bluegrass style tunes; a must-see

SUNDAY

7pm The Early session – prepare to be amazed – with the lineup setting the rhythm of the night

9:30pm DJ Johnny Burger spinning out those tunes – dancing is required, but not necessary

LOWRY’S BAR, CLIFDEN

LOCATE VENUE # 53 CLIFDEN MAP

MONDAY

10pm Amazing mix of upbeat Irish and Contemporary music with Rofi James

TUESDAY

10pm Energetic Irish Folk music and tunes with Seamus Fla and friends

WEDNESDAY

10pm Legendary mix of Irish Ballads and Contemporary music with Peter Junior and Mick

THURSDAY

10pm Irish and Contemporary music with a Celtic Twist! – The Tribes

FRIDAY

10pm Legendary mix of Irish Folk Ballads and Contemporary with Peter Carey Junior and Aidan

SATURDAY

10pm Amazing mix of upbeat Irish and Contemporary music with Rofi James

SUNDAY

7pm-9pm Lively Classic Irish and Folk music with The Carey’s

9:30pm Legendary Irish and Contemporary music with The Slyne Heads

STATION HOUSE HOTEL

LOCATE VENUE # 30 CLIFDEN MAP

MONDAY – THURSDAY

8:30pm ‘The Piano Man’ plays in the Clifden Station House Hotel lobby

FRIDAY – SATURDAY

9pm Relax in the foyer to the sound of ‘The Piano Man’

SIGNAL BAR, CLIFDEN

LOCATE VENUE # 33 CLIFDEN MAP

MONDAY – WEDNESDAY

8:30pm Traditional music and Irish ballads

FRIDAY & SATURDAY

9pm Traditional music and Irish ballads

SUNDAY

8:30pm Traditional music and Irish ballads

MULLARKEY’S BAR, CLIFDEN

LOCATE VENUE # 59 CLIFDEN MAP

THURSDAY

9:30pm Open session; singers, players, poets, dancers, jokers and chancers, all welcome

FRIDAY

9:30pm A captivating mix of Country, Blues, Trad, Ballads, Cajun, Gospel, Motown, Funk, Soul, Disco and Dance

SATURDAY

9:30pm A captivating mix of Motown, Blues, Trad, Ballads, Gospel, Country, Dance, Soul, Disco, Cajun & Funk

Restaurant Upstairs from 6pm till late

Bar Food served all day Live Music Nightly

Connemara, a place to dream and quiet the soul

events and festivals

The longest-running community arts festival in Ireland, Clifden Arts Festival is now in its 46th year and will take place from 13th–24th September. You will find a few highlights on this page, but make sure to visit clifdenartsfestival.ie to view the full programme. The festival box office is located on Bridge Street or call +353 (0) 87 331 5009. See also the Art Trail on page 11.

Clare Sands

Friday 15th September, 1pm

Clare Sands is a remarkable presence in Irish music, blending traditional roots with contemporary influences. As a sixth-generation fiddler and bilingual singer, she gained audiences worldwide with her fearless folk style and boundless energy. With her fiddle, guitar, percussion, vocals, and cassette recordings, Clare delivers electrifying live performances that take listeners on a thrilling journey of celebration, resilience, and hope. Clare’s highly anticipated self-titled album, released in 2022, garnered critical acclaim, earning her a nomination for Best Folk Singer at the Irish Folk Awards. Venue: Christ Church

Turning Pirate presents

Lisa Hannigan, Gemma

Hayes, and Paul Noonan

Friday 15th September, 8pm

Turning Pirate presents a wonderful evening of collaboration and song. Lisa Hannigan, Gemma Hayes and Paul Noonan have always individually danced between genres as artists. Collaboration is part of the makeup of each of their careers. Three artists who have predominantly been centre-stage in their careers, while also experiencing the other parts and spaces and instruments that populate a band; Lisa, Gemma and Paul will come together to share their stage and their songs with each other.

Venue: West Connemara Sports & Leisure Centre

From Africa to Appalachia

Sunday 17th September, 9pm

From Africa to Appalachia is a musical project that delves into the historical connections between West African and Appalachian music. It highlights the influence of instruments like the n’goni, akonting, and other lutes brought by enslaved Africans on the development of the American banjo. The project features renowned Malian n’goni master and griot Cheick Hamala Diabate, accomplished old-time banjo player Riley Baugus, and versatile multi-instrumentalist Danny Knicely. Venue: Clifden Town Hall

Poetry with John F. Deane and James Harpur

Tuesday 19th september 3pm

John F. Deane is a prominent figure in the world of poetry. He is the founder of Poetry Ireland, the Poetry Ireland Review, and the Dedalus Press. He has published several collections, including his latest release in 2021, “Naming of the Bones,” published by Carcanet. James Harpur has authored 8 poetry collections. His talent has garnered a number of awards, including the UK National Poetry Competition and the Michael Hartnett Poetry Prize.

Photo: Dino Ignani.

Venue: Clifden Station House Hotel, Omey Suite

Jack Lukeman

Wednesday 20th, 8pm

Over the past few years, Jack Lukeman has tirelessly crafted a faithful following nationally and globally. His hypnotic stage presence, sonorous vocal style, and unmatched interpretative prowess has left audiences worldwide in awe and wanting more. Jack L’s versatility and virtuosity know no bounds, as evidenced by his performances alongside a diverse array of music legends such as U2, Jools Holland, Imelda May, Neil Sedaka, The Proclaimers, Marianne Faithfull, and Elvis Costello.

Venue: West Connemara Sports & Leisure Centre

Heaney’s Classic Hits with Professor Bernard O’Donoghue

Thursday 21st, 3pm

Bernard O’Donoghue is a poet and former tutor in English at Wadham College. He specialised in medieval literature and modern Irish literature until his retirement in 2011. His work extends to modern Irish poetry, with his editing of ‘The Cambridge Companion to Seamus Heaney’ and an ongoing project to edit Heaney’s poems. He has held positions such as the Director of the Yeats International Summer School and President of the Irish Literary Society in London.

Venue: Station House Theatre

Dinner is Served Each Evening From 6:00pm. Booking is Essential.

Leenane Sheep Show Sunday 10th September

For over half a century, this event has persevered, a farmers journey from the landscapes of Connemara to present their prized ewes and rams. The heart of the event is undeniably the sheep, where two judges might engage in extensive deliberations to determine a victor.

Culture Night

Friday 22nd September

Culture Night – Oíche Chultúir is funded by the Arts Council and is a national moment inviting everyone everywhere, on one joyful night, to discover and celebrate all that Irish culture is today. Entry is free. Please visit culturenight.ie/events for Galway County’s local events taking place in Connemara.

Bia Bó Finne Food Festival

22nd–24th September, Inishbofin

Back for the first time since 2019, Bia Bó Finne Food Festival celebrates all things local with a focus on traditional food, arts and crafts from this exceptionally beautiful part of the country. See inishbofin.com for more information. Read more about Inishbofin Island on page 9.

095-21699

Inishbofin Set Dancing and Trad Weekend 29th Sept.–1st Oct.

Plenty of Irish music, song and dance sessions throughout the weekend with a Céilí Band on Friday and Saturday night as well as a set dancing workshop and Sean-Nós dance workshop with Ger Butler. See ‘bofindancing’ on Facebook for further information. Read more about Inishbofin Island on page 9.

Clifden Historical Walking Tours Every Tues & Fri, 11am

Explore the history of this 200-year-old town with local historian Kathleen Villiers-Tuthill, the author of several books on the history of west County Galway. No need to reserve, simply turn up! Starting point: Station House Hotel. Adults €10, free for children under 15. Tel: +353(0)876471107. Until 22nd September.

Connemara National Park Month of September, Letterfrack

A wide range of free activities for the whole family entail, from guided walks to Connemara pony information, evening lectures to ‘Focus On’ talks and ‘Raven Ramblers’ for those junior legs. Please visit nationalparks.ie/connemara web page for all the dates and further details.

Clifden Station House Hotel, Galway Road, Clifden, Co. Galway,H71 AK52

activities and attractions

WALKING

Endless miles of rugged coastline, islands, lake-filled hinterlands, and some fifty mountains across four ranges (the Twelve Bens, Maum Turks, Partry, and Sheffrey) – if Connemara doesn’t make your legs yearn to stretch themselves, nowhere will. All levels of fitness, speed, and ambition are catered for, whether its mountain peaks, forest pathways, bogland boardwalks, or sea-kissed headlands.

Connemara National Park and its hugely satisfying Diamond Hill loop is a must, as is the walkable and otherworldly island of Inishbofin. Clifden’s tranquil Beach Road takes you from town centre to ocean’s edge, passing close to the ruins of Clifden Castle. Ballynahinch’s sheltered network of pathways that skirt river, lake, and pristine woodland also boasts the first 6km of the much-anticipated Connemara Greenway. Walking is how we connect with a place and slow down to its frequency. For those wishing to tune into Connemara’s, there is no better way in which to do so. See www.connemara.net for more information.

BEACHES

Some of Europe’s most exquisite beaches dot the jagged coastline of Connemara. Each has its own character and layout, meaning endless options for exploring, beachcombing, swimming, rockpooling, walking, and more. The Coral Strand on the Clifden to Ballyconneely road is easily accessed and distinguished by its golden sand. Dog’s Bay and Gurteen are sweeping coves that draw visitors to Roundstone from far and wide. Crystal blue waters and gentle dunes make an Trá Mór near Inverin a family favourite, as does fellow Connemara Blue Flag-winner Trá an Dóilín in Carraroe. North of Clifden, meanwhile, Whitestrand Beach on the Renvyle Peninsula is a certified Green Coast Award-winner. Omey Strand offers limitless freedom, while Glassilaun glistens like a discovered jewel.

There are countless secluded spots waiting to be happened upon at the end of quiet boreens, whether it’s for sunny days with buckets and spades or bracing walks to blow away the cobwebs. Whatever the season and whatever the reason, clear Atlantic waters and sea air are an unbeatable tonic for body and mind.

CYCLING AND BIKE HIRE

If you’re going to drink in the breadth and beauty of Connemara, cycling is hard to top. To get you roadworthy, you’ll need a rental company who can tailor to your needs. Enter Clifden Bike Shop on Market Street, who have bikes for all inclinations; road and eCargo bikes, electric and hybrid, children’s, tandems, and buggies. Hire includes helmet, Hi-Viz, lock, route maps, and roadside assistance.

T HE F ISHERMAN'S PUB

Celebrating local produce, the menu showcases the larder of Connemara in a relaxed and friendly environment

O’Dalaigh Jewellers

STUNNING WEDDING & ENGAGEMENT RINGS

SILVER & GOLD CELTIC CONTEMPORARY, VINTAGE

BALLYNAHINCH ESTATE

You mightn’t be booked in to stay at the Castle Hotel but that doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy the pristine miniature kingdom that is the Ballynahinch Estate. A 16km network of pathways weaves through this truly remarkable Connemara wonderland of waters, woods and mountains. Afterwards, refreshment and log fires await at the hotel’s classy Fisherman’s Pub. An illustrated route map is available to download.

BRIGIT’S GARDEN

This Celtic wonderland between Galway and Connemara is an ideal stop-off for families. Four ornate and meditative gardens take visitors through the seasonal festivals of Samhain, Imbolc, Bealtaine and Lughnasa, before leading you through woodlands and meadows. All the while, Celtic mythologies gently impart their wisdom and inspiration along the way. Its café comes highly rated too.

CASTLES OF CONNEMARA

The seats of pirate queens and jealous merchant chiefs, Cromwellian barracks and Napoleonic fortifications, the West coast is studded with charismatic structures that form a major part of the region’s built heritage. Varying in condition from manicured piles like Kylemore Abbey and Ballynahinch Castle to the ghostly ruins at Clifden or Renvyle, Connemara’s castles are beacons that allow us to connect with a bygone age.

CLIFDEN BOAT CLUB

It goes without saying that Clifden Boat Club wouldn’t be celebrating its 50-year milestone if it wasn’t so committed to bringing through new generations of seagoers. Beginners and experienced sailors alike are therefore welcome at its various seasonal sailing camps, Young Pirates junior camp, Sunday sailing sessions, and even powerboat training. Its annual August Regatta is a treasured fixture in the town calendar.

CLIFDEN STATION HOUSE LEISURE CENTRE

From fitness buffs to those who prefer their swimming in a heated pool rather than a windswept beach, this tip-top leisure centre in the Station House complex is worth taking note of. There is ample scope for some serious unwinding here too, courtesy of its sauna, steam room, jacuzzi, and Renew Beauty and Spa, which offers a range of treatments. Three- and sevenday passes are available.

CLIFDEN STATION HOUSE MUSEUM

Located on the site of Clifden’s old railway station, this lovingly restored original engine house serves as the town’s museum. Here, families can enjoy learning about the history of Clifden, the Galway-to-Clifden railway line, the native Connemara Pony breed, Millar’s Mill, and the first transatlantic flight by legendary aviators Alcock and Brown. There’s also a photographic exhibition on the Marconi wireless station.

MAP #26

CLIFDEN MAP #34

CLIFDEN MAP #94 see advert page 12

CONNEMARA MAP #23 see advert page 6

Main

CLIFDEN MAP #32

Learn about the history of sheep farming and wool craft

www.sheepandwoolcentre.com

Demonstrations ¦ Gift shop ¦ Cafe LEENANE, COUNTY GALWAY

CONAMARA: WILD AT HEART

Families exploring Connemara by car will appreciate its array of sublime locations in which to pull over, stretch the legs, and maybe pop open the picnic basket. Our handy guide takes you through the most memorable stopoff points in the region, many featuring Wild at Heart interpretive panels so you can discover more about a given location’s natural and human heritage while you’re at it.

CONNEMARA NATIONAL PARK

Free, accessible and richly rewarding, the National Park in Letterfrack is a gateway to a deeper level of intimacy with this unique landscape. The Diamond Hill trails are an idyllic hiking experience, one that climbs through wild uplands before rewarding you with jaw-dropping views across the region. A woodland walk, immersive visitors’ centre, playground and café are on hand should the weather act up.

CONNEMARA SEAWEED BATHS

Connemara’s only saltwater seaweed baths is on a mission to de-stress and revive. The key is fresh hand-cut seaweed combined with saltwater to release its essential nutrients and minerals. After your pores are done soaking up the goodness, a saltwater plunge pool awaits. A Thermal Suite package is also offered, featuring sauna, steam room, and an outdoor jacuzzi overlooking Clifden harbour.

CONNEMARA SHEEP AND WOOL CENTRE

see icons page 21

Ireland’s first Food Économusée, this familyrun business offers tastings of the best quality traditional smoked salmon in the west. Visitors are welcome to the factory shop Monday to Friday, but booking is essential for its year-round private tours. These take in filleting and slicing demonstrations along with salting and smoking techniques, all capped off with a tasting on Irish bread. Visites disponibles en français.

DERRIGIMLAGH LOOPED WALK

Less than 5km south from Clifden, history and nature combine in remarkable fashion. This protected biodiversity area with lake-studded blanket bogs were both the jumping off point for the first trans-atlantic radio signal in 1907, as well as the landing site for the first non-stop transatlantic flight in 1919. A looped boardwalk with interactive information takes you through these world-changing events.

DISCOVERY POINTS

The Wild Atlantic Way is more than just a coast-hugging route with spectacular scenic spots – there’s also a wealth of stories, history, and natural wonder to bring added depth and intimacy to your exploration of the landscape. With this in mind, keep an eye out for the special Discovery Points with their distinctive steel posts – many will display information to enrich your stop-off.

FERNWOOD – LUXURY TREEHOUSES

8

Sheep farming is tied up in the identity of Connemara, as any drive through the region will prove. This inviting heritage experience in Leenane aims to celebrate this age-old tradition and reveal some of its mysteries. Highlights include a yarn-spinning demonstration and a gift store selling the woollen and knitwear fruits of the industry, while a café awaits you when the tour has come to an end.

Fernwood is the brainchild of the Ashe family, whose vision was to create a design-led couples retreat where sustainability and connectivity with nature would be the bedrock. Situated on Salt Lake (just south of Clifden town), it offers unique luxury hideaways, a private lakeside sauna, an organic farm, woodland walks, a treetop rope bridge, and access to the Connemara Greenway.

CONNEMARA MAP #84 see advert page 10

CONNEMARA MAP #68 see advert page

CONNEMARA SMOKEHOUSE

CONNEMARA MAP #42 see advert page 15

CONNEMARA MAP #91 see advert page 9

CONNEMARA MAP #40 see advert page 7

CONNEMARA MAP see aeroplane landmark

ADVENTURE MAP see icons page 21

Ceramics Studio Alan Gaillard

Visitors Welcome

12am to 6pm Mon-Sat

TELEPHONE 095-22786 WEB alangaillard.com

GAELTACHT REGIONAL AREA

Ireland’s second-largest Gaeltacht (Irishspeaking region) is located in South Connemara, and maintains to this day an indelible link to a different time. While Gaeilge is the day-to-day language, the people of this community can switch to English effortlessly if needed. Visitors are therefore not only welcome, but they will find in this heartland an emphasis on traditional culture and customs that is enriching to behold.

INISHBOFIN ISLAND

Long before you walk along its tapestries of meadow, its ancient ruins, sea cliffs and rocky coves, not to mention two Green Coast Awardwinning beaches, the adventure of Inishbofin has already begun the second you board the ferry at Cleggan for the journey out. Hence the reason this welcoming island escape has been a go-to family day out for generations of visitors to the West. Ferry times are listed on page 32.

JEWELLERY WORKSHOP

Wander into O’Dalaigh Jewellers on Clifden’s Main Street and you might find it difficult to leave. This family-run outfit crafts finery inspired by the golden age of Celtic jewellery that embraces modern sensibilities. Drop by their open-plan workshop to see these master exponents in their element. You’ll come away with some secrets of this ancient craft – and perhaps more, besides.

KYLEMORE ABBEY AND GARDENS

Kylemore Abbey was originally built as a Castle in 1867 as a romantic gift. The Abbey and surrounding mountains and lakes are steeped in history, myth, and legend. Experience the beautifully restored rooms of the Abbey and Gothic Church, explore the magic of the Victorian Walled Garden, Woodland Trails and Tales, Café, Tea House and shop. This is the ideal destination for a family day out.

Residents and day-visitors in search of me-time should find themselves suitably melted once Le Petit Spa has had its way with them. Full-body, hot-stone, and Indian head massages are on the menu, as are a range of organic beauty and detox treatments using local products such as Voya seaweed. Taking pride of place among the latter are its Nourishing Marine Cocoon Wrap and Detox Seaweed Bath.

Accessible by car or foot at low tide (check the tides on page 32), Omey is one of the more beguiling locations to be found in the Clifden area. The huge strand near Claddaghduff is beloved by locals and visitors alike as a leisure amenity, with a famous race meeting taking place in summertime. The low-lying island itself, meanwhile, offers incredible Atlantic views, rich wildlife and centuries-old ruins.

PLAYGROUNDS

OK, it’s time to face facts – no amount of dramatic scenery, fresh seafood, and cheerful locals will be enough for “certain people”. When grumbles escalate from the backseat and impatient frowns start to rear their ugly head, the best thing for everyone might be a hasty retreat to a playground. Take comfort, then, in the fact that you don’t have to travel too far in Connemara without coming across one.

SANDS SEAWEED BATHS AND SPA

Sumptuous seaweed baths by Voya, the world’s first producer of certified organic seaweed-based skincare products, are among the wide range of treatments at this soothing coastal spa in the Connemara Sands Hotel. Located right by the crystalline waters of Mannin Bay in Ballyconneely, a “Sea Swim & Sauna” thermotherapy experience is also available, which is good news for the stiffjointed among us. Booking is essential.

CONNEMARA MAP see shaded area

CONNEMARA MAP #61 see advert page 7

LE PETIT SPA AT THE TWELVE HOTEL

CONNEMARA MAP #73 see advert page 25

CONNEMARA MAP #47 see timetable page 32

CONNEMARA MAP #49 see advert

OMEY TIDAL ISLAND

REFER TO MAPS beach icon, page 17 & 21

ADVENTURE MAP see icons page 21

CONNEMARA MAP #41 see advert page 16

The Art Trail is a numbered window exhibition taking place all around Clifden Town as part of Clifden Arts Festival 2023, which runs from Wednesday 13th to Saturday 24th September. Distance: 1.7km approximately; Duration: 2 hours approximately. Clifden Arts Festival wishes to acknowledge the continued cooperation of homes and business owners in support of the visual arts.

THE POINT PONY TREKKING

The world looks different from horseback, revealing things you might otherwise have missed. With 25 years of experience, this equine company located close to the Connemara Championship Golf Links and the dreamy white sands of Aillebrack beach will show you how. All treks are accompanied by qualified staff, with safety equipment included free of charge. Closed on Sunday.

WESTERN WAY

For those looking to fully immerse themselves in the wilds of Connemara, this long-distance walking trail is just the ticket. Traversing quiet bog roads, forestry tracks, mountain paths and timber bridges, you begin in Oughterard, heading north towards the Maumturk mountains, the Inagh Valley and onto Killary Harbour. Waymarked and accessible, this route speaks to walkers seeking a sense of wilderness.

WILDLANDS – FAMILY DAY OUT

Just minutes from Galway on the Clifden road, the village of Moycullen has become a hotspot for thrill-seeking thanks to this versatile and weather-resilient activity centre. Wildlands welcomes all ages and levels of excitability to its popular Zip ‘n’ Trek course, new Ninja course, Cloud Climb Combo, fun walls, archery, bushcraft, fairy trails, and tonnes of other indoor and outdoor frolics on its 20-acre site.

Refer to connemara.net

• Self-Catering Luxury Cabins • Zip 'n' Trek • Fun Walls • Celtic Challenge Rooms • Cloud Climb Combo • Off-Road Adventure • Baile Beag • Disc Golf • Safe Archery • Bushcraft • Orienteering • Fairy Trails

LUXURY HIDEAWAYS - LAKESIDE SAUNA SALT LAKE SWIMMING

TRAILS - ROPE BRIDGE

CONNEMARA MAP #71 see advert page 7

CONNEMARA MAP #74 see advert above

THE ART TRAIL

CLIFDEN MAP see venues page 11

Photo credit: Chaosheng Zhang

Here,

the only stress is on relaxation

walk of the month

The Art Trail is a numbered window exhibition taking place in Clifden Town as part of Clifden Arts Festival. It runs from 13th–24th September. Please refer to the Clifden map on page 16.

An

greattovisit places some

BALLYCONNEELY

The winding coast road of Ballyconneely takes you through one of Connemara’s popular holiday destinations. Glorious sandy beaches are inescapable, even at the world-renowned Connemara Championship Golf Links. In summertime, the village itself enjoys a vibrant atmosphere, but make sure to explore the many quiet byroads as these will open up the peaceful treasures hidden along this stretch of coast.

CARNA

The village of Carna is a gateway to the Irishspeaking Gaeltacht region, famed for its seannós (old style) singing, dancing, folklore and storytelling. The most famous past resident is Joe Heaney, Ireland’s greatest storyteller in the native tongue. The Emigrant’s Commemorative Centre tells Carna’s saga of mass emigration, and was opened in 2014 by Boston mayor Marty Walsh, himself a descendant of the area.

CEANTAR NA NOILEÁN

Like shells on a necklace, this archipelago is linked by causeways keeping its cluster of islands tethered to the South Connemara Gaeltacht. As you pass through Lettermore, Gorumna and Lettermullan, the landscape becomes increasingly rocky and low-lying. Traversing its gently undulating road, keep an eye out for Napoleonic ruins, traditional currachs, and the Aran Islands on the southern horizon.

CLEGGAN AND CLADDAGHDUFF

The busy harbour of Cleggan is both a departure point for the Inishbofin island ferries as well as a refuelling hub for those in search of seafood and live music. A number of splendid beaches and coves lie just past the village on the Aughrus peninsula, including the tranquil Salerna and the famous Omey Strand and tidal island. Popular annual events in this area include the Festival of the Sea, and the Cleggan Fringe Festival.

CLIFDEN

The unofficial Capital of Connemara and the axis on which everything in the region turns. Since its founding in 1812, Clifden’s position between the mountains and ocean continues to attract multitudes each year, some of whom never leave. Annual highlights include the Connemara Pony Show, Clifden Trad Fest, Ireland’s longest running arts festival, Clifden Arts Festival. An eclectic mix of shops, bars, and cafes lies in store.

KILLARY FJORD AND LEENANE

Right on the county border of Galway and Mayo, the village of Leenane is huddled between the feet of towering mountains and the shores of Ireland’s only fjord, Killary Harbour. Cyclists, kayakers, ramblers, and mountaineers have all felt the pull, with a recently established mountainwalking festival now drawing many enthusiasts annually. Leenane also welcomed Hollywood in 1980 as the backdrop for Jim Sheridan’s The Field.

ode to a sense of place, doth help with time and space

LETTERFRACK

Located along the Westport Road, the village of Letterfrack is a diverse and spirited hive of activity nestled under Diamond Hill. The jumping off point for Kylemore, the Renvyle Peninsula, and the majestic Connemara National Park, it also has a great sense of local pride thanks to its community radio station, college campus, friendly pubs, independent bookstore, and annual festivals, including Sea Week.

OUGHTERARD

Pretty as a picture on the western shore of Lough Corrib, Oughterard is not only the gateway to Connemara, it is the main angling centre for the largest lake in Ireland. Boat hire, fly-tying and freshwater angling are popular pursuits, but the area also offers scenic and heritage walks. An ever-evolving mixture of shops, small businesses, traditional pubs, and accommodation providers makes this a major Connemara destination.

RENVYLE PENINSULA

A left turn at Letterfrack leads you out the rolling Renvyle Peninsula. Surrounded on three sides by Atlantic waters and intersected by the Dawros river, the drive takes you to the gorgeous village of Tullycross, where a decision awaits; turn north to beaches at Lettergesh, and beyond it, the stunning Glassilaun and Killary Fjord, or continue out the headland towards the Green Coast Award-winning Whitestrand Beach.

ROSMUC

In the Gaeltacht village of Rosmuc, sean-nós (old style) music and dance are part of the very fabric, as is their Gaelic football team. The former summer home of Irish revolutionary Pàdraig Pearse is now a national heritage site here, and an interactive exhibition showcases the area’s landscape and history to great effect. Rossaveal harbour 15-minutes away is an embarkation point for the Aran Islands.

ROUNDSTONE

This harbour village facing on to the Twelve Pins mountain range has been a destination for generations of visitors. A busy summer schedule of events includes pony shows, a dog show, weekly Sunday farmer’s market, and the Roundstone Regatta. The mesmeric Bog Road to its north, Dog’s Bay and Gurteen beaches to its south, and fresh seafood in its centre, Roundstone is an must-visit.

SPIDDAL

The village of Spiddal (An Spidéal ) on the shores of Galway Bay is one of the largest Irish-speaking areas of the Gaeltacht and has a charming traditional appeal. While English is spoken when needed, all road signs and day-today speech are as gaeilge. Crafts and culture can be experienced here, as can some great natural beauty – Trá na mBan, a Blue Flag beach, and Shannagurraun Wood.

50 Years

Traditional Style Sweaters & Accessories - Souvenir Gifts - T-Shirts - Knitwear TAX FREE SHOPPING & WORLDWIDE MAILING

Gardens surrounded by wildflower meadows and woodland. Family friendly.

Blanket bogs, the fjord, lots of lakes, selfie stops, sea mist, chained mountains, indifferent sheep

drives day-tours and

HEARTLANDS OF CONNEMARA

Heading west of Lough Corrib and Oughterard on the N59, the beauty of Connemara really begins to unfold before you. Mountains start to rise up in the distance and the terrain becomes dotted with lakes separated by blanket bog and forestry. Five miles after leaving Oughterard, keep an eye out to your lefthand side for the iconic Quiet Man Bridge made famous by John Wayne in the 1952 film.

As you come to Maam Cross, the midway point of Connemara, you may start to notice traces of the long-gone Galwayto-Clifden railway here and there on either side of the road. Continuing towards Clifden, you come to Recess where the Connemara Giant statue overlooks the village car park. Past Recess, take the R344 right and continue the whole way through the mountain-flanked Inagh Valley, one of Ireland’s most magnificent drives. The valley is especially enigmatic on calm clear mornings or at sunset, when the unique Connemara light illuminates the landscape. At the end of the Inagh Valley, you can choose to turn left towards Kylemore, Letterfrack and Clifden, or right towards Leenane and Killary Harbour.

ROUNDSTONE BOG AND BALLYCONNEELY LOOP

On the N59 from Galway, turn left onto the R341 just after the world-famous Derryclare lough with its pine-covered island. This takes you south towards Roundstone and past Ballynahinch Estate. As you approach Roundstone, a right-hand turn marks the beginning of the famous Bog Road that winds through unbroken blanket bog and lakes back towards Clifden (from Clifden, take the R341 towards Ballyconneely and turn left at Ballinaboy Bridge). If you prefer to stay by the coast, continue to Roundstone village. Near it, the island of Inishnee can be accessed by car and is a peaceful walking destination.

The fishing village of Roundstone itself is a must-see and a venue for great food. From there, the road continues south past the famous twin beaches of Gurteen and Dog’s Bay, before winding onwards through a rocky moonscape on one side and a jagged coastline on the other towards the village of Ballyconneely. Taking a left here brings you further south again to Aillebrack, Connemara Championship Golf Links, and Doonlaughan Beach. Returning to the R341 and continuing northwards brings you past Mannin Bay, Coral Strand, Derrygimlagh, and eventually Clifden.

Image above: Killary Fjord courtesy of Chris Hill

Image above: The Bog Road

A haven for book lovers in Connemara

Stockists of a comprehensive range of Books, Gifts, Stationery Maps, Guides

Artist's Supplies

Newly published titles including Irish & Local Interest, World History, Literature, Sports & Leisure

The Clifden Bookshop, Main Street 095-22020

LOOKING FOR THE ISLANDS

Share

www.clifdenbookshop.com clifdenbookshop@gmail.com

From Clifden, follow the Sky Road to the scenic point for panoramas over Atlantic islands. Continue north to Streamstown Bay and Boolard island. At the end of the Sky Road, go left on to the N59, and then a quick left again on to the L1102 to Claddaghduff. Approaching Claddaghduff, you’ll see the tidal island of Omey, accessible by car and on foot (but make absolutely sure to check the tide timetable on the back page). Continuing around the Aughrus peninsula to Cleggan, your point of embarkation for Inishbofin island (please refer to the ferry timetable on page 32).

Travelling from Clifden, go left at Letterfrack village, and left again at Derryinver before you reach the village of Tullycross. This road loops back towards Renvyle Beach and Tully (a different village further out the peninsula), passing the remains of Renvyle Castle and views of Ballinakill Bay. From Tullycross, take the coast road left of the church towards the spectacular Glassilaun Beach. At the N59, go left for Leenane and the Killary Fjord. Those with time on their hands can loop back to the Galway-Clifden road via the R345, the Maam Valley and Maam Cross.

Heading west from Galway City through Salthill, take the R336 (Coast Road) to Barna, Furbo, and Spiddal (An Spideal ). Home to Radio na Gaeltachta and television channel TG4, Irish is the day-to-day language in this part of Connemara. Continuing on the coastal route, go left at Screebe on the R340 to Rosmuc (home of Pearse’s Cottage), Kilkerrin, Carna, and then continue left towards Cashel, Roundstone, Ballyconneely and eventually Clifden. This route is significantly longer than travelling directly from Galway to Clifden on the N59, so allow plenty of time for stops and photo ops along the way.

From Galway, take the N59 and head towards the charming towns of Moycullen and Oughterard. At both, you’ll find sideroads that lead off to the right towards Lough Corrib. If coming from Clifden, take a left at the crossroads village of Maam Cross and continue through the haunting Maam Valley until you come to Maam Bridge. A right here on to the R345 will take you past lakeside scenery and on to the Joyce country villages of Cornamona, Clonbur (An Fhairche), and, eventually, Cong. Heading west on the R345, meanwhile, returns you to Connemara via Leenane.

in the Roberts family’s incredible passion forqualityhandmade food

RENVYLE AND NORTH CONNEMARA

CORRIB DRIVE

THE GALWAY GAELTACHT

Clifden

Clifden Opticians

Cycle routes

AWARD WINNING CAFE, BAKERY & WINE BAR

Serving highest quality cakes, pastries, breakfast, sandwiches, hot food, fine wine & barista coffee

Kids Corner

Let’s get busy and help us to keep Connemara tidy!

My Big Adventure

Connemara Journal

Welcome, young explorer! Get ready to embark on a journey through the magical landscape of Connemara. This journal will help you record your memories and share all the fantastic things to do and see while you are here with your family and friends.

Draw

3. I vistited a new beachI tried some new food I put my feet in the sandI climbed a mountain I made a new friend

I told a funny joke

Collect Wild Atlantic Way Discovery Point Stamps

There’s more to explore on the Wild Atlantic Way! All along this coastal route are Discovery Points which are places that offer unique stories and spectacular views. You can visit any local Post Office to get a unique stamp for each point you visit. Find the Discovery Point Stamp locations on the Adventure Map on page 21. Let’s go on an adventure together and see how many stamps we can collect!

1.

2.

My adventure Map to

Connemara

Let’s go! Are you ready for an awesome adventure in Connemara? It’s going to be a great experience lled with fun and excitement.

Coral Beaches

On certain beaches, you can see corallike sand underfoot. is sand is formed from large beds of special plants called ‘Maerl’ that begin life a red colour. But what colour are they now? Look for coral icons in the map above.

A Pirate Queen

ere once lived a very brave Pirate Queen who ruled the Connemara coast long ago. She commanded a large eet of ships that sailed the seas doing her bidding and followed her into erce battles with other pirates. Do you know her name?

Identify Seashells

Connemara has some amazing beaches where you can nd all kinds of shells. e most common ones include periwinkles, mussels, and cockles, but you can even nd rare seashells like cowries if you’re lucky! Just remember to always leave living creatures where you nd them. So grab a bucket and let’s go shell hunting in Connemara!

Slyne Head Lighthouse

On a clear day or, better still, a starry night, look south-west along the coast to the island of Illaunamid. ere, you might spot the brightest light in Connemara – the Slyne Head Lighthouse, perhaps warning pirates of treacherous rocks.

TheBogRoad

Explore Killary Fjord

Killary Fjord in Connemara is a long, narrow inlet where the sea is funnelled between high cli s. It’s the only fjord in Ireland! You can go on a boat trip to explore it up close, and maybe even spot some dolphins, seals or eagles. Formed by the deep carving action of a massive glacier, Killary is today famous for its beds of Connemara mussels. Did you know that this fjord is 16km long? at’s about 10 miles!

The Twelve Bens

Derrigimlagh

Coral Strand

She rey Hills

Carna

Clifden

Ballyconneely

Bunowen

Roundstone

Gurteen

Trá Chaladh Fínis

Cloonisle Quay

Dog’s Bay

Tullycross

Tully

Cleggan

Errislannan

The Sky Road

Connemara National Park

Inagh Valley

Lettershanbally Nature Walk

Renvyle

Glinsk Pier

Moyrus

Killary Fjord Letterfrack

Ballynahinch

Cashel

Inishbofin

Inishnee

Omey Island

Kylemore

Lettergesh Glassillaun

DerryInver

Connemara Marble

Connemara Marble is a rare and unique type of rock found in only one place on Earth: Timbuktu! Only joking – the hills of Connemara, sillies! For hundreds of years, people have crafted beautiful jewellery and other items from it. Some even think it can bring good luck and happiness, so keep an eye out for Connemara Marble on your travels in the area!

Connemara National Park

e park is home to a range of birds and mammals, including deer, foxes, badgers, ravens and peregrine falcons. Hiking up Diamond Hill o ers amazing panoramic views of the islands and Atlantic Ocean. Can you guess why it’s called Diamond Hill? Drop into the visitor centre to learn more about the park’s plants and animals.

LEGEND

Discovery Point Stamps

Castles

Playgrounds

National Park

Picnic Areas

Shell Finding

Walks

Blue Flag Beaches

Green Coast Beaches

Beaches

Did you know?

At over 729m (2,392ft), Benbaun in Connemara is the highest mountain of the Twelve Bens range. A tough but rewarding climb, it is also known for its miraculous abilities to cure the dreaded adult medical condition known as Dad-bod-itis.

Where’s Woolly?

Woolly the sheep is hiding on our Connemara map, and it’s your job to nd him! Look for a u y white sheep among the landmarks, mountains, and rivers. Can you spot him blending in with the clouds? When you nd him, give him a big “baaah” for being such a good hider!

Disclaimer: Although we have taken great care to ensure that all information in this publication is accurate, the publishers of What’s On Connemara cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions. All activities listed are suggestions only, and children must be accompanied by adults at all times. e publishers of What’s On Connemara cannot be held responsible for any accidents or mishaps that may occur while following these suggested activities, activities engaged in are at your own risk.

Corrib

Quiet Man Bridge Ross Castle

Trá na bhForbacha

Trá na gCeann

Clonbur Woods

Na Gaoithe Looped Walk

what’s on the menu

“There is true wine in every garden,” goes the old Irish saying. In other words – the best things can be close at hand. Wherever we go, local food is a way to access a place and its people on a deeper and more intimate level.

BALLYNAHINCH CASTLE

The historic Connemara jewel might boast leaping salmon and log fires but it’s coming to feel as if its gastronomic landscape is the big draw. Blame Executive Head Chef Danni Barry, whose influence is writ large across the classy Fisherman’s Pub, the Owenmore Restaurant with its sweeping riverside views, and the Garden Café seated within the hotel’s immaculately restored walled vegetable garden.

BOOKS AT ONE, LETTERFRACK

The prospect of fresh barista coffee and delectable homemade goodies, all served in the company of books, is ample justification to visit this café-bookshop in Letterfrack. Extra incentive, however, comes with knowing that husband and wife Vincent and Mary regularly host readings, signings, talks, and music sessions, as well as their other great trump card – At The Yard, a covered outdoor space and garden seating area.

BRIDEWELL BREWERY

A big chapter in Connemara’s slow-food revolution has been this craft brewery, Bridewell’s family of draught beers include the crisp Bridewell Blond, the smooth malty Bridewell Red and special limited-edition bottlings, all of which are brewed using Connemara water. What’s more, bars, hotels and supermarkets have embraced these hearty drops. Ask for Bridewell. www.bridewellbrewery.ie

CONNEMARA MAP #24 see advert page 27

CONNEMARA MAP #23 see advert page 6

CLIFDEN MAP #25 see advert page 24

Serving Great Locally Sourced Dishes Every Day

CLIFDEN BOAT CLUB’S ANCHOR BAR

At the end of Clifden’s charming Beach Road, the town’s distinctive Boat Club is celebrating 50 years as the meeting point between the sea and the community. No better place to raise a glass than Anchor Bar, where a sea-infused menu (chowder, mussels, stir-fried prawns, fish and chips, et al.) complements a commanding view of the ocean. A play area is also on hand to keep younger seadogs amused.

CONNEMARA HAMPER DELICATESSEN

Any foodie worth their salt will want to become acquainted with the Connemara Hamper. Small in size but packing a weighty culinary clout, this is a one-stop shop for fine produce (farmhouse cheeses, smoked meats and fish, artisan breads, wine, condiments, confectionary) as well as freshly prepared takeaway lunches. The best of everything from Connemara and beyond.

CONNEMARA SHEEP & WOOL CENTRE CAFÉ

Perched right on the lapping shores of Killary Fjord with its steep mountain walls, this café’s high-ceilinged octagon room looks out on to one of the most dramatic views you could ask for while having your coffee and cake. Home baking and decadent treats are a speciality here, but a robust lunch menu also offers up gourmet sandwiches, Killary mussels, and daily specials.

CONNEMARA SMOKEHOUSE

You learn a thing or two about traditional seafood smoking after nearly half a century in the business. This will be apparent during a visit to the Connemara Smokehouse Factory Shop at Ballyconneely’s Bunowen Pier. It’s widely agreed that this family-run smokehouse produces the best wild and organic beechwood-smoked seafood in the region. Available from the Factory Shop, online or select local retailers.

CONNEMARA MAP #42 see advert page 15

CONNEMARA MAP #68 see advert page 8

CLIFDEN MAP #94 see advert page

MAP

Mitchell's Restaurant

Boutique hotel with magnificent sea views

Bar, Restaurant, Music Outdoor Dining, Sky Sports

Market Street, Clifden, H71 V272 www.woodfieldclifden.ie

see advert page 3

DELI 19

A rustic-chic chillout zone amid the bustle of the town centre – that’s what this new arrival is promising, along with top-notch coffee, freshly baked pastries, all-day brunch and hearty lunches (dine-in or takeaway). Their lounge café just off the main town square is open from 8am and serves food until 3pm. This has all the makings of becoming a cherished part of the Clifden streetscape.

E.J. KING’S BAR AND RESTAURANT

A Clifden institution and the town’s natural cornerstone – “E.J.’s” has been the venue for weddings, christenings, break-ups, make-ups, bar mitzvahs, you name it. Mostly, however, it is a place for locals and visitors to be amply fed and watered from its renowned restaurant and bar menus. Once that important work is out of the way, you’ll be well set for a night of creamy pints and live music.

GUY’S BAR & SNUG

see advert page 7

Cosy, tasteful, conducive to good conversation with friends old and new, Guy’s Bar & Snug has been the heartbeat of Clifden’s Main Street for decades. In recent years, Guys has also found itself garnering a reputation for excellent pub grub. Its ovenbaked pizza menu, meanwhile, has become a lifesaver for families fresh in from the beach and seeking a crowd-pleasing takeaway option.

JASMINE GARDEN RESTAURANT & TAKE AWAY

You’d never have called Clifden the ethnic food capital of Ireland, but it came a step closer in 2001 with the arrival of this family-run Asian food outfit. Now firmly embedded in Connemara life, Jasmine Garden are master proponents in Chinese, Malaysian, and Thai food – and all the fragrant, aromatic, delicately spiced wonderment that those cuisines encapsulate. Eat in or take away, the choice is yours.

LOWRY’S MUSIC & WHISKEY BAR

What does it take to become a three-time winner of Best Traditional Bar in Ireland at the National Hospitality Awards? Drop into Lowry’s on Clifden’s Market Street for lunch (Connemara smoked salmon, toasties, and sandwiches feature on their menu), a dram from their unequalled whiskey selection, or an evening of toe-tapping trad music. You’ll probably come away with the answer.

MANNION’S BAR

You can’t move in Clifden for people with the surname Mannion. Whether they all stem from this family-run establishment (now approaching its centenary), no one quite knows. Best to concentrate on the fine menu that you’re handed on arrival, what with its Connemara lamb, Doon Castle oysters, and fresh fish, as well as its selection of fine wines, craft beers and ciders. Reservations are recommended.

CLIFDEN MAP #48 see advert page 23

CLIFDEN MAP #53 see advert page 17

CLIFDEN MAP #54 see advert page 23

CLIFDEN MAP #43

CLIFDEN MAP #46

CLIFDEN MAP #89 see also Vickers page 25

The Woodfield Hotel in the heart of Clifden

Celebrate Food

Wine

Life

MARCONI RESTAURANT AT FOYLE’S HOTEL

Family-run and maintaining a storied, age-old charm about it, Foyle’s Hotel and its Marconi Restaurant have been one of the classiest facades on Main Street for more than a century. Its dining room walls are adorned with history, culture and character, making it one of the more memorable venues to eat out anywhere in Connemara. Afterwards, live music and nightcaps draw you into Mullarkey’s Bar.

We can’t say for certain that the pizza, beer and live-music combination is one that is unique to McGrath’s Bar. What we can be sure of, however, is that this family-owned hostelry wouldn’t be around as long as it has without an eye for invention. Their pizza-and-a-pint offer sounds like the ideal foundation for an evening that promises some of the best live music you’ll find in the West.

MITCHELL’S RESTAURANT

This 2015 Best Seafood Restaurant in Ireland winner is considered something of a powerhouse when it comes to dining out in Clifden, such is its reputation for consistency and quality. Unsurprisingly, seafood is the star of the show with local fisherman literally bringing fresh boxes of fish, shellfish, and crustaceans to its kitchen door each morning – how on earth could it be otherwise?

O’DOWD’S SEAFOOD RESTAURANT, BAR & CAFÉ

Those on a mission to source the best seafood chowders would do well to journey out to O’Dowd’s. A pillar of Roundstone that dates back to 1840, this is among Connemara’s major seafood landmarks, one made all the more enticing by the promise of a harbourside Guinness afterwards looking out on that view. Food-to-go from its café is a welcome addition to the set-up.

One thing you can be sure of about a seafood bar right by the dock of a working fishing harbour is that your food won’t have travelled very far to reach your plate. This and a friendly, casual atmosphere are why we recommend sticking your head in the door of Oliver’s for refuelling should you find yourself exploring Claddaghduff, the Aughrus peninsula, or the mighty Inishbofin island.

SANDS BAR

Between its white sands and tropical-tinged waters, Mannin Bay has always had a slightly exotic undercurrent, even if the water temperature doesn’t quite chime. Connemara Sands seems aware of this, and brings a sophistication to the spread it offers at its beachside premises that is at once quintessentially Irish while being dynamic. Local produce and seafood are to the fore.

CLIFDEN MAP #56 see advert page 24

MCGRATH’S BAR

CLIFDEN MAP #88 see advert page 2

CONNEMARA MAP #41 see advert page 16

OLIVER’S SEAFOOD BAR

CONNEMARA MAP #63 see advert page 32

CLIFDEN MAP #44 see advert page 2

CONNEMARA MAP #60 see advert above

Photo credit: Chaosheng Zhang

Discover the beaches of Connemara

SIGNAL BAR AND RESTAURANT

Aside from the canny way it repurposed of a key part of Clifden’s built heritage, the Signal Bar in the old Victorian train station deserves applause for how quickly it became a firm favourite in the town landscape. Good quality pub grub has played a part, as has an inviting, vintage atmosphere that is as suited to mellow morning coffees with the newspaper as it is lively evenings on the barstool.

THE KYLEMORE KITCHEN CAFÉ

You’re probably going to visit Kylemore Abbey, and if so, keep in mind that besides stately architecture and virgin Atlantic rainforest, the Benedictines are well versed in hospitality as well. Along with its hot menu, the Kylemore Kitchen Café prides itself on home-baking and homemade ice cream, so prepare to loosen the belt. Picnic areas in among its lush woodlands and Victorian Walled Garden await.

STANDÚN CAFÉ

If the good people at Standún put half as much care into their café as they do their legendary family-run clothing and gift department store, you can be sure of a very happy belly by the time you leave Spiddal. Along with hot and cold drinks, there is a fine range of macaroons, chocolate truffles, homemade cakes, and scones, all on hand to revive those who tend to shop ‘til they drop.

THE OLIVE

KITCHEN AT WILDLANDS

Moycullen’s hub for adventure activities set out its stall with good food as one of its core principles. Hence the Olive Tree Kitchen, where wholesome grub made from local ingredients –including its on-site vegetable garden – can be enjoyed indoors, or outdoors to a soundtrack of exhilarated zipliners. Freshly baked pastries and a firebrick Neapolitan pizza oven are some of the menu’s talking points.

THE TWELVE HOTEL

It’s called the Twelve because that’s the mark out of ten that happy diners tend to give it. Joking aside, this gem in Barna has made a real name for itself through a combination of its gourmet West restaurant (one of Ireland’s most critically acclaimed wine experiences), The Pins Gastro Bar, Pizza Dozzina gourmet deli, and its mouth-watering bakery shop. A proper foodie hub in the shape of a boutique hotel.

THE WOODFIELD HOTEL

This most recent arrival to Clifden’s community of hotels has made great use of its vantage point overlooking Clifden Bay with a terrace bar and grill as well as an indoor restaurant. A good view alone does not guarantee a happy dining experience, however. That’s why the Woodfield Hotel has come ready-packaged with a sturdy, no-nonsense menu full of traditional favourites done well.

CLIFDEN MAP #75 see advert page 24

CONNEMARA MAP #73 see advert page 25

TREE

CONNEMARA MAP #74 see advert page 10

CONNEMARA MAP #69 see advert page 11

CONNEMARA MAP #49

CLIFDEN MAP #33 see advert page 16

Photo credit: Chaosheng Zhang

what’s store in

Retail is the heartbeat of any place that we visit, the level where we get to see its faces and personalities living day-to-day in a community. Few places reward interaction with local business quite like Connemara. Here, a simple stroll into a shop can lead not only to finding that something special for you or your loved ones, but also a conversation or local insight you probably never envisaged.

To wander the shopfronts of any Connemara town is to walk a townscape at odds with today’s city highstreet, one where proud owners look to stand out with colour and variety. Dotted around the region, meanwhile, are artisans and craftspeople whose skill and experience are reason enough to visit a headland or valley. But no matter where the encounter happens to be, what links all these businesses is something that can’t be found when shopping online or with a homogenous global brand – the human touch.

OUTDOOR MARKETS

ACROSS CONNEMARA see advert page 29

Pick it up, give it a squeeze, haggle with the vendor – shopping at the market stand is an outdoor activity in itself. In the Connemara of yesteryear, markets were the hustle and bustle around which many prominent towns and villages gradually formed. With cottage industries and artisan producers aplenty nowadays, the humble street market still thrives across the region as a stage to show their wares.

ALAN

GAILLARD CERAMICS STUDIO

Travel north from Clifden on the N59 Westport Road. After 2km, you come to a sign to your right for Alan’s Pottery Studio. Pull in and become acquainted with the finest handmade domestic stoneware and ceramics and the man creating them. Courses are also available if you want to try your hand. Visitors to the wheelchairaccessible showroom are welcome from 12pm until 6pm.

BOOKS AT ONE, LETTERFRACK

Books, excellent coffee, delectable homemade goodies, a sheltered and wheelchair-friendly garden seating area – husband and wife Vincent and Mary have struck gold with this warm and colourful addition to Letterfrack. Once a 19thcentury Quaker forge, Books at One has proven an instant hit with young and old – it even landed a spot on the 2022 shortlist for Bookshop of the Year at the Irish Book Awards.

BRIGIT’S GARDEN

A green and serene gift shop that lies outside of Galway City near Rosscahill. The store at Brigit’s Garden’s Celtic oasis comprises of local handcrafts and literature, natural skincare and aromatherapy products, artisan foods, and lots of nature-based toys for children. Central to their ethos is the sourcing of ethical products that are manufactured with sustainability and environmentalism in mind.

Whats in store.qxp_Layout

CONNEMARA MAP #26 see advert page 13

CLIFDEN MAP #20 see advert page 9

There is a wide variety of shopping experiences awaiting you.

17

to Connemara

Besides its gourmet menus, a range of homemade chutneys, jams, salsas, dressings, and awardwinning Smoked Onion Mayo have contributed to this Gaeltacht foodie hub becoming a culinary mecca. Be it online or from its café shop, Builín Blasta’s devotion to “wholesome, tasty comfort food” is writ large. Joining those sumptuous in-house creations on the shelves are a host of handpicked artisan Irish products and wines.

CLIFDEN BIKE SHOP

To get a real flavour for a place, two wheels always beats four. Based on Market Street, this outfit specialises in getting you in the saddle with its range of Trek regular and electric bikes. Whether you’re buying a new or pre-loved bike, or just looking to rent, they have all your equipment, safety gear, servicing, and route information needs sorted, as well as complimentary refills for tyre air and water bottles.

CLIFDEN BOOKSHOP

page 15

Dubbed one of Ireland’s best bookshops by the Irish Independent newspaper, Clifden Bookshop has an uncanny ability to have something for every type of reader all in one cosy space. Established in 1997 and run by tireless bibliophiles Máire and Nicole, this is for anyone who loves to lose time browsing shelves of fiction, non-fiction, children/YA, maps, gifts, stationary, and art materials.

9

CLIFDEN OPTICIANS

Ever since 2004, this family-owned opticians has prided itself on the highest levels of personalised service and attention for every single client that crosses its doorway. Behind the scenes, meanwhile, it ensures that not only the leading innovations in optometric care are available but also the latest international styles in eyewear, including Mulberry, Oakley, RayBan, MauiJim and more.

CONNEMARA HAMPER DELICATESSEN

A foodie landmark of Clifden, one crammed with the best of artisan Irish produce (farmhouse cheeses, smoked meats and fish, artisan breads, wine, condiments, confectionary), excellent takeaway coffee, freshly prepared delicatessen fare, and ready-made meals. Should a minor addiction develop during your stay – a likely outcome – an online shop will deliver to wherever you live.

CONNEMARA SEAWEED BATHS

Clifden town centre’s relaxation and wellness haven works with only the very best when it comes to beauty products and skincare. Fitting comfortably into this category is the awardwinning seaweed skin and body care range from Connacht’s own Rí Na Mara. Drop by to peruse their selection, or purchase some after you’re done being pampered so that the goodness can continue at home.

CLIFDEN MAP #29 see advert page 16

CLIFDEN MAP #38 see advert page 23

CLIFDEN MAP #22 see adverts page 12 & 17

CLIFDEN MAP #28 see advert

CONNEMARA MAP #91 see advert page

BUILÍN BLASTA

CONNEMARA MAP #87 see advert page

Photo credit: Chaosheng Zhang

OUTDOOR MARKETS

CLIFDEN OUTDOOR MARKET

FRIDAYS FROM 10AM MAAM CROSS MART

SATURDAYS FROM 11AM MOYCULLEN COUNTRY MARKET

FRIDAYS FROM 1PM

By the shores of the mighty Killary Fjord, this family-owned gift shop in Leenane village celebrates the long and proud heritage of sheep farming in the West. There is something for every budget here, from sheepskin rugs, knitwear and hand-woven blankets to jewellery, books, and gift items. Wool-craft demonstrations run throughout the day as part of the tour, with a great café on site too.

CONNEMARA SMOKEHOUSE

A Connemara artisan-food landmark, this familyrun business has been in the game for almost half a century. In that time, it has mastered the age-old art of smoking fresh salmon, tuna and mackerel – all sourced from the wild Atlantic – going on to become a household name and Ireland’s first Food Économusée. All of their products are available to buy at their waterside Factory Shop.

DELI 19

This fresh-faced addition to Clifden’s coffee scene is not only bringing a space to unwind right in the heart of the town, it’s also offering a bespoke take-out option for those wishing to cook in their own kitchen. Drop into their café just across from the Clifden Millennium Square and peruse their deluxe range for that takeaway meal or artisan foodstuff that your day might just be missing.

HEHIR’S OF CLIFDEN

You could never accuse Hehir’s of being narrow in scope. Clifden’s most diverse lifestyle shop has attire for everyone – casual or formal, from schools old and new, and with footwear and outerwear also on the bill. Many of the handpicked brands to be found at this Market Street mainstay are exclusive to the region, with a tight and impossibly warm shop-floor team ready to assist you through them.

INISH

GROE FRESH FISH & SHELLFISH

Straight from the sea to your kitchen counter, with a brief pit stop aboard the Inish Groe –you’d struggle to source fresher seafood than that harvested in the waters around Connemara and its islands by this Cleggan fishing boat. Lobster, crab, shellfish, and line-caught white fish are usually available, either via local delivery or from their stalls at Clifden Market (Fridays) or Roundstone Market (Sundays).

INTERSPORT GANNON’S

Casual walkers, trekkers, sea-swimmers, all the way to team-sports players – if your idea of a good time involves getting up off the couch then Intersport Gannon’s is where you should set your coordinates during your stay. Footwear, team jerseys, and fitness accessories are among the huge array of items found in-store and online (gannons.ie), with staff on-hand to help find just what you need.

CONNEMARA MAP #42 see advert page 15

CLIFDEN MAP #81 see advert page 27

MAPS #43 see advert page 8

CLIFDEN MAP #45 see advert above

New & Vintage Fashion, Jewellery, Children’s Toys Market Street, Clifden @lovevintageclifden hello@lovevintage.ie

CLIFDEN MAP #89

see also Vickers page 25

CONNEMARA SHEEP AND WOOL CENTRE

CONNEMARA MAP #68

see advert page 8

KYLEMORE ABBEY CRAFT AND DESIGN

Almost as famous as the lakeside Abbey itself is this tasteful and extensive gift shop where items handmade by the Benedictine nuns (chocolate, soaps, conserves, pottery) sit alongside the best national and international brands like Barbour and Dubary, Magee and Newbridge Silverware, and the very best in local crafts from around Connemara. Put simply, you might find it rather difficult to leave empty-handed.

LOWRY’S SWEATER & GIFT SHOP

An Irish Independent Retail Awards winner in 2019, Lowry’s has been a Clifden staple for generations. A wide range of quality Irish clothing has made Pat and Ann Casey’s shop a port-of-call for those in search of traditional Aran sweaters, tweed caps, official Guinnessbranded clothing and grandfather shirts. Its souvenir solutions include Thomas Joseph sheepthemed gifts and the Wacky Woolly range.

LOVE VINTAGE

A real family affair, this, with a mother and her three children all bringing something special to the table as part of a Connemara retail heritage that stretches back a century. Look within to find new and vintage silks, linens, and cashmere in fantastical colours, fab jewellery, quirky faux fur coats, knitwear, and a new in-store children’s section. Another option is to shop online at lovevintage.ie.

MILLARS CONNEMARA

Founded way back in 1900 by Robert Millar, Millars is today a retail centrepiece of Clifden’s Main Street, so much so that it’s probably hard to imagine the place without it. Through its doors, a real feeling of tradition and style interweaving becomes noticeably apparent – this extends right across its ranges of luxuriant clothing, giftware, accessories, and interiors. On top of this, their staff couldn’t be more helpful or welcoming.

O’DALAIGH FAMILY JEWELLERS

Johnny and Annie began creating jewellery in 1973 and never looked back. Since then, their son Jonathan has come on board, growing the business into one of the most unique jewellery shops in the country. For gift options for someone special, or simply to stop by to watch jewellery being brought to life in the open-plan workshop, this is worth finding time for during your stay in Connemara.

OHH! BY GUM

The Best Boutique in Ireland according to the Irish Times newspaper and a firm favourite with locals and visitors seeking sustainably sourced clothing and gifts for all ages. Stepping inside is akin to a walk-in treasure trove, with brands from all over Europe and UK that promote ethical lifestyle choices. Open Mon-Sun, you’ll find them beside the old Clifden railway station in the Station House Courtyard.

CLIFDEN MAP #61 see advert page 7

CLIFDEN MAP #62 see advert page 17

CLIFDEN MAP #51 see advert page 29

CLIFDEN MAP #55 see advert page 5

CONNEMARA MAP #49 see advert page 2

CLIFDEN MAP #52 see advert page 13

PROVENANCE - INTERIORS

Town and country are the meeting point for this interior design studio that specialises in fabrics and soft furnishings with an Irish feel. As part of its design service, owners Rosie and Sadhbh work with indigenous materials and Irish craftspeople to help locate just the right tone and feel for a client’s home. Drop into their shop on Market Street, Clifden to say hello.

STANDÚN

Family-run for three generations, Standún has been ‘The Home of the Aran Sweater’ since 1946, and more recently, The Wall Street Journal voted it Best Quality and Value Aran Sweater. Besides Irish knitwear, clothing, gifts, and jewellery are on display at both their Spiddal and Oughterard outlets. Visitors to its online store (standun. com), meanwhile, can avail of favourable shipping rates.

SuperValu kavanagh's

SUPERVALU CLIFDEN

The best local produce – Connemara Smokehouse salmon, Bridewell beer, Jimmy’s Homemade Ice Cream, you name it – sits proudly alongside more familiar brands in this familyowned supermarket. Every possible base has been covered here – freshly baked breads, a fresh meat and seafood counter, an excellent selection of wines and spirits, takeaway coffee, and a hot counter for food on-the-go.

THE TWELVE HOTEL GIFT STORE

Your pooch could really do with a handmade Aran Knit Dog Sweater. No? Well, how about a Faux Fur Brown Two-tone Parka? Better yet, why not bring your good boy or good girl for some retail therapy at the Twelve Hotel Gift Store. While they’re browsing, there’s freshly baked breads and cake, hampers, beauty products, candles, cocktail mixes, wine, and artisan foods to keep you occupied.

CLIFDEN MAP #70 see advert above

CONNEMARA MAP #73 see advert page 25

OLIVER’S

Sourced Fish and Meat Dishes

Amazingly

NEW Loyalty Scheme www.connemaralettings.ie Tel +353 95 22669 WhatsApp +353 83 0390634 market st. clifden Cleggan, Co. Galway T: 095 44640 e: oliverscleggan@gmail.com w: oliversonclegganpier.ie

095 22669

BUS EIREANN SCHEDULE

Clifden to Galway City (Route 419)

Departs

Clifden Library Bus Stop, Market Street

Terminus

Bus Depot (Ceannt Station), Galway City

Departures

CITYLINK SCHEDULE

Clifden to Galway City (Route 923)

Departs Clifden Library Bus Stop, Market Street

Terminus Galway Coach Station

Daily Departures

7am, 9:15am, 12pm, 1:15pm, 3pm and 6:30pm

Clifden to Cleggan (Ferry Drop) via Letterfrack, except 1:30pm

Daily 10am, 1:30pm, 5:30pm and 7pm*

To Cleggan 7pm* Tuesday and Friday only

Info: citylink.ie Tel 091 564 164

TFI LOCAL LINK SCHEDULE

Clifden to Carraroe (Route 432) via Roundstone, Carna, Rosmuc, Costello

Departs Clifden Library Bus Stop, Market Street

Terminus Eurospar

Daily Departures 8:50, 13:30 and 18:10

Carraroe to Claremorris (Route 431) via Screebe, Maam Cross, Clonbur, Cong

Departs Eurospar

Terminus Train Station Road

Daily Departures 11:25 and 15:15

Info: transportforireland.ie

Galway tides 4 Sept. – 9 Oct.

EMERGENCIES useful information H: High Water L: Low Water : New Moon : Full Moon

Monday – Saturday 9am, 1:30pm and 2:40pm Sunday 4:15pm via Roundstone

Notes: Tuesday’s 9am service is via Leenane

Wednesday’s 9am service is via Roundstone

Friday’s 9am service is via Roundstone and Cashel

Clifden to Westport (Route 423)

Departs Clifden Library Bus Stop, Market Street

Terminus

Westport Railway Station

Departures

Monday – Sunday: 7am, 11:25am and 4pm

Oughterard to Galway City (Route 419)

Departs Bus Stop outside The Angler’s Bar Terminus Bus Depot (Ceannt Station), Galway Departures

Monday – Friday 7:45am, 9:45am, 10:25/30, 2:17pm, 3:30pm, 6pm, 9pm and 11pm Saturday 9:50, 2:18, 3:28, 6pm, 9pm and 11pm Sunday 12pm, 17:45pm, 9pm and 11pm

FURTHER INFORMATION

Please see our website connemara.net for more useful information, including Doctors’ Surgeries, EV Charging Points, Fishing, Garda Stations, Church Mass Times, and so much more on everything about Connemara.

TAXI SERVICES

Atlantic Tours, Renvyle 087 260 2717

Connemara Chauffeurs, Camus 087 326 8019

D’Arcy Hackney, Oughterard 087 653 0417

Danny Ryan, Clifden 086 831 3462

Ian Prendergast, Clifden 089 215 2180 Liam Felton PCR, Oughterard 085 842 9568 Robert Nee Travel Bus / Coaches 087 759 5538 Robert’s Taxi, Clifden 087 416 1796