Dine During Mother Nature’s Daily Show

By Rita Calvert | Photography by Stephen Buchanan

Facing westward, Libbey’s boasts the best views of the Chesapeake Bay and its landmark bridge. Sunsets are spectacular from the upstairs or downstairs dining areas…inside or out! The restaurant calls early evenings one of “Mother Nature’s daily shows!” This spot, where Maryland’s Eastern Shore begins, has been a hospitality leader for forty years says Manny Lopez, Director of Operations.

With the July 2021 acquisition of the Bay Bridge Marina and former Hemingway’s Restaurant, new owners Petrie Ventures and McGrath Development opened Libbey’s Coastal Kitchen + Cocktails. After completing substantial renovations, the team introduced a revamped dining concept with seafood and coastal influence.

The bright red signage that announces the restaurant is personal for new owner Walt Petrie, who has honored his wife and two daughters by combining their names to create Libbey’s (Lisa + Lindsay + Abbey). Libbey’s menu features creative dishes curated from fresh, local ingredients with a nod toward southern style. A huge plus for service is the fact that Libbey’s is managed by the team of Chesapeake Bay Beach Club.

Of all the dining areas, the focal point is undoubtedly that which overlooks the Bay, with soaring window views from a remodeled contemporary interior. The decor is clean throughout, in a quiet nautical way with subdued tones of blue and gray. Jay Fleming’s breathtaking photographs hang on the walls, adding even more local Bay character. The spring season will find Libbey’s launching its sailcloth sunshades for outdoor dining. The lower level seating is covered with an awning, providing an oasis from Maryland’s heat.

We were seated upstairs in one of the two dining rooms attached to each side of the bar room. Since we planned our visit at sunset, our server was skilled at lowering shades which provided relief from the sun’s glare, then raising them for the twilight glow.

Creative cocktails are a big sell at Libbey’s with “Upstairs Cocktails” crafted with artisan liquors, fresh juices, unique syrups, and herbal sprigs. Cocktails served on the lower level lean toward tropical frozen drinks, crushes, and juicy island concoctions. Freshness is the rule of the bar. The bartenders also get creative with special cocktails for holidays. Wines categorized as Whites, Blush, and Sparkling have a global range including New Zealand, Italy, France, and of course, California. Those labeled Reds + Blends are mostly Californian with a smattering of French and Argentinian. A big draw on Tuesdays is half-priced bottles of wine.

The dining menu covers lunch and dinner, so there is a range of choices from casual to more eloquent fare. The “Handhelds” section covers casual burgers, sandwiches, tacos, and wraps. Gluten-free bread is available and there is a designation for gluten-free menu items. The “Oyster Bar” has three offerings: raw on the half-shell, and prepared Imperial or Rockefeller. “From the Garden” features three salad choices: Classic Caesar, Bayside Cobb, and Harvest. Protein may be added.

For the “Shared Plates,” Libbey’s Executive Chef “Mo” takes creative license with the popular Chesapeake Crab Dip, which boasts spinach, artichoke, and blended cheeses in a bread bowl with wonton chips and naan for dipping. The most popular appetizer, however, is the Sashimi Tuna Tower. It has height and is layered with green and red seafood salad, tuna, avocado, cilantro, ponzu, and wasabi cream. Those crisp wontons serve as chips. For our starters, we indulged in the Country Scallops, which rested on a flavorful bed of cauliflower puree sprinkled generously with small crisp cubes of grilled pancetta. The flavors married superbly, and the large scallops were perfectly tender, melt-in-the mouth, and golden with flecks of green herbs on the plate. We savored every glorious bite slowly of the three bivalves.

From “Main Plates,” we considered the tempting Seafood Trinity, consisting of broiled crab cake, scallops, shrimp, chives, citrus bay butter, Old Bay mashed potatoes, and a seasonal vegetable. There are several land and sea options. A New York Strip steak is offered, as are two versions of poultry: fried chicken or Chesapeake Chicken. Of the two pasta dishes on the menu, Cajun Pasta is sure winner, we were told.

Since we had tasted the scallops, I opted to try a dinner special, Salmon Oscar. Arriving in a large, flat bowl, the layered affair began with a bed of mashed potatoes. Plump, tender asparagus were next up. A six-ounce salm- on filet floated on top with garnishes of lump crab and micro greens. A light, herb-speckled Hollandaise sauce was pooled around the entire dish. I added a squeeze of fresh lemon, which sparked the flavors.

We heard the crabcakes were notable, so my companion ordered the dinner entrée. It proved to be almost all lump crab, gently seasoned, and lightly broiled with a pattering of butter. Large, tender, glistening asparagus spears were the vegetable for the night, along with seasoned mashed potatoes. Our server kindly substituted potatoes at request for flavorful mashed cauliflower. Because the six-ounce crabcake was a showcase of meat and not filler, we recommend this special taste of the Bay!

We wanted to try Libbey’s version of the beloved American dessert, Strawberry Shortcake—traditionally a hard and soft, moist and dry, and sweet and tart dish. The chef’s lofty interpretation featured hard biscuits as the vehicle to support a scoop of vanilla ice cream. Hard biscuits, also known as “shortcakes,” have been used as a base for strawberry shortcake since the mid-1800s. Strawberries were situated atop the ice cream, with two whipped cream dollops and a strawberry syrup drizzle adjacent to the stack.

Some of the special dining experiences we plan to revisit the restaurant for include “Lite Lunch” (offered Monday through Thursday featuring soup and slider or soup and chopped salad for $18) and Wednesday’s “Locals Night” (a twocourse prix fixe menu at $25 per person). Equally intriguing is the flight of mimosas available for Sunday Brunch.

Come by land or sea (docking available for two hours) and certainly check Libbey’s website for specials, events, and more—the restaurant has action! Reservations for indoor dining are suggested, while outside is first-come, first-serve.