DINING REVIEW
Beloved Cuisine
I
By James Houck | Photography by Stephen Buchanan
’m not surprised that on the evening of our visit to Odenton’s famed Chinese establishment, Hunan L’Rose, the restaurant was a-flutter in a good way with hungry diners enjoying all manner of the cuisine at hand. Steamy dishes starring chicken, beef, duck, shrimp, scallops, and a healthy mix of classic vegetables adorned most tables during an otherwise mundane Thursday evening. Thankfully, our night out proved to be just the excitement and delicious dinner we all hoped for, satiating myself, wife, and two picky children.
Upon entry to the mall-strip location, which is conveniently situated a skip away from Route 32, diners are greeted at the front reception and promptly seated. The room is spacious and well-appointed with white tablecloth linens adorning the cozy tables, and there are pink accents everywhere, from head to toe. The lighting—punctuated by a central chandelier—has a dimness that’s soothing and complements the pink hues atop the tables (linen napkins and vases of pink roses), along the floral wall coverings, and underfoot (pink carpeting). And there’s plenty of green to juxtapose the namesake hue, with lush, live plants tucked throughout. A large aquarium provides eye candy and serves as a fun conversation piece, especially for children. But would the table fare match the table ware?
Our server was crisply dressed in black and white, which lent another nod that this dinner would likely eclipse many other Chinese establishments. True, you will find the full gamut of well-known dishes that you’re apt to order from your favorite take-out restaurant. The menu is a behemoth and boasts all the classics you’d expect (yes, there’s General Tso’s Chicken). But it also features Chef’s Suggestions, ingredient combinations, and traditional preparations that’ll call your curiosity, begging for a try. We obliged. Our drink selections were well-served, even if safe options for us—iced and hot teas, plus a round of waters for all. Call me bland and I’ll call you correct. That’s okay. The teas were apt and on point, especially the hot tea served in a piping pitcher and freshly filled at each request. If you’re interested in more interesting options, Hunan L’Rose has a full bar ready to tend your favorite cocktails, as well as a several beer and wine options. For the meal, we ordered the house. A suite of appetizing starters and more than enough mains to have leftovers for days to come— with sizable portions of all dishes, you’ll be happy to tote your unfinished business back home for next day’s lunch or dinner. We began with everyone’s favorites (even my two picky eaters), Sesame Shrimp Toast and Spring Rolls. We added a third appetizer, Steamed Meat Dumplings, which the adults nibbed on as well. The toast points were the most charming of the three. Two-inch-thick, crisp mats of a juicy shrimp spam, sandwiched and coated with the most sesame seeds I’ve seen adhered to any dish of the same name.
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What’s Up? Central Maryland | July/August 2022 | whatsupmag.com
