The Maryland “Fish Pepper”

What about Maryland peppers? Maryland is a peculiar state in many ways. Our culture isn’t northern, but not quite southern either. And for such a small state, we have an incredibly diverse mixture of urban, suburban, and rural areas. This diversity has spawned a deep pride in our state. Think: crabs, the state flag, Old Bay seasoning, horse racing, rockfish, Natty Bo…the list goes on to the point of self-obsession. In fact, with so many things to be proud of, it’s no wonder that a few traditions would fall through the cracks…like fish peppers.

Odds are that you’ve never heard of fish peppers. They are extremely rare and cannot be found at many garden centers, if at all. But once you see them, you won’t forget them. Ironically, they used to be a traditional crop and important cooking ingredient of the African American community, until they essentially disappeared in the late 1800s. Fish peppers have a spiciness comparable to a jalapeño pepper.

The fish pepper started off in Central America making its way both north and south, as well as to the islands of the Caribbean, where it was adopted by the enslaved people of Haiti. As these enslaved people were transported to the Chesapeake region, they brought their peppers with them, and the peppers became ubiquitous in traditional African American cuisine in the 18th and 19th centuries. In fact, in the aftermath of the Civil War, poor African American farmers would sell fish peppers to restaurants in urban areas such as Baltimore and Philadelphia for use in dishes that required some heat. The peppers became popular in fish and crab houses—hence the name “Fish Pepper.” But, in the late 1800s and early 1900s, Maryland urbanized quickly as cities sprawled out into the farmlands and commercial farming replaced small homesteads. The fish pepper disappeared for decades.

That’s where the story would end, if not for arthritis. In the 1940s, an African American artist in Philadelphia named Horace Pippen was finding it increasingly difficult to paint due to the pain from his chronic arthritis. Seeking stings from bees, a folk remedy for the malady, he made an agreement with local beekeeper, H. Ralph Weaver, to exchange a variety of seeds that used to belong to his father in return for the treatment. That exchange included seeds for the fish pepper. But it took five more decades for the pepper to truly be re-discovered. In 1995, Weaver’s family found the seeds and donated them to the Seed Savers Exchange. This re-introduced the pepper to the general public, as well as its importance to the African American community in the Chesapeake Bay region.

Fish peppers, both the plant and the fruit, are stunning. The leaves of the plant are marbled with striking contrasts of green and creamy white, reminiscent of a dappled willow shrub. As beautiful as the plants are, they are completely upstaged by the striped fruits, which transform dramatically. A cross between serrano and cayenne peppers, the fruit starts off green and white striped before changing to red with green stripes. And the fruits may turn a deeper red with variegation. This is one dramatic plant that works as both an ornamental and an edible, which is a rarity in the world of landscaping.

Since the fish pepper has reemerged, it was not greeted with the fanfare that it deserved. It is still extremely rare to find seedling plants in garden centers, although the seeds can be purchased online.

Niche restaurants such as Spike Gjerde’s Woodberry Kitchen in Baltimore, have a love affair with this chile and their perfect heat-flavor balance. Spike’s hot sauce, Snake Oil, and other fish pepper hot sauces are popping up at farmers’ markets around the Chesapeake region. What is a novelty now will soon become a staple, once again, and be recognized for the Maryland gem that it is.