Sweet As Domino Sugar

It is a virtual newcomer, opening in 1922, but its 120- by 70-foot neon sign erected in 1951 proclaims this manufacturing plant is here to stay. Domino is the second largest sugar refinery in the USA, producing 6.5 million pounds of raw sugar cane each day. It is the only refinery that produces sugar in retail size plastic tubs and distributes 350 billion single serving packets per year. On certain days, the smell of crème brûlée wafts around Locust Point.

Baltimore’s harbor was once home to six different sugar and molasses refineries during the boom years 1865 to 1873. Molasses is made from the “white gold” sugar cane industry and was introduced to America and Louisiana by Christopher Columbus in 1493 during his spice trade route of discovery. But a downturn in molasses demand doomed Baltimore’s numerous refineries.

Domino, allured by the harbor’s big ships capable of carrying huge amounts of cane and a rail transportation network that supported shipping sugar across the country, set down new roots. Domino, founded in 1901, is said to take its name from the sugar cubes that looked like the tiles of the popular turn of the century game.

In 1922, its new building in Baltimore was hailed as “a monument of state of the art modern industrial design.” The building remains unchanged and is on the National Register of Historic Places. In the 20th century, women—the primary cooks of the house—were early marketing targets. Radio adds proclaimed, “keep your man peppy with lots of sugar energy” and “mother is interested in quality. She selects 100 percent pure Domino sugar.” Promoting tours of the noisy conveyer belt plants, Domino opined “our doors are open…and you will be welcome, especially the housewives of Baltimore.”

But it is Domino’s willingness to innovate that continues to rank it among the largest sugar companies in the world. Sugar is an international, volatile business dependent on government support and price controls. Peter O’Malley of American Sugar Refining, Inc. represents the industry, and identifies the company’s sustainable and community innovations which include the use of solar panels, storm water controls, and support of oyster sanctuaries to clean our water.

“Dominos is a good neighbor and good steward of its history and its environment,” he says. With 500 employees, Domino continues the blue collar, hardworking reputation and legacy Baltimore is known for.

Today, the grand neon sign remains a fixture over the Inner Harbor. Recently restored with LED lights and reinstalled on Domino’s 100th birthday celebration, the red sign is so big that a tractor trailer could drive through the letter O. It is visible across the harbor, the Patapsco River, and continues to capture our attention.

Author Laura Lippman attributes her lead character, Tess Monaghan, in her book The Sugar House, with this thought as she views the harbor…

“If she were God, that was where she would make her home. Atop a neon sign overlooking Baltimore, guarding a mountain of sugar.”