DINING REVIEW
Finesse for Seafood
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By Rita Calvert Photography by Stephen Buchanan
he bright blue New England-style cottage tucked in a quiet side street with its signature windswept grasses and coastal flair in the, otherwise, very busy Eastport neighborhood continues its reign in fin and shellfish. From humble beginnings as a seafood shack just feet from Spa Creek, O’Learys has long been considered the premier seafood restaurant in Annapolis. The in-demand spot brings artistic, sophisticated seafood to a highly-frequented peninsula. Step inside and most nights you will find a bustling crowd of locals and visitors, possibly celebrating a special occasion. With its own parking lot, you’ll have a hassle-free experience beginning to end. Owner Wil Peterson came up through the ranks and, in 2015, bought O’Learys from restaurateur and artist Paul Meyer. Peterson has continued to retain the excellent quality and reputation of O’Learys. Upon entering during our visit, the mood was quiet at the time of early evening, giving us an opportunity to take note of the atmosphere; dark, muted walls showcased large spots of colorful wall craft from local artist Charles Lawrance. The white woodworked windows and dark wood beams conveyed an intimate cottage ambiance. After being seated in the smaller dining room by the gracious manager at the front desk, our server, Denise, offered drinks and explanations to any of our questions.
O’LEARYS SEAFOOD RESTAURANT
Owner Wil Peterson
310 Third Street, Annapolis 410-263-0884 | olearysseafood.com
O’Learys excels in beautifully appointed spirits! Also, the excellent wine list has an extensive selection of half bottles and six dessert wines by the glass: port, sherry, brandy, cognac, armagnac, and single-malt scotch. Unique, handcrafted dessert liquors are also on the menu such as the Salted Caramel Vodka, Gabriel Boudier Caramel Liqueur, and Bicerin Chocolate Liqueur. Served up! The wine menu is immense and global with owner Wil and his sommelier curating the list. My dining companion inquired which wine is the favorite among diners. Denise suggested a big, bold, and chewy red—the Tinta de Toro. This is an intense, full-bodied red wine with lots of fruit from the Toro region of Spain. Advice well-taken, as the wine perfectly fit her description. Denise then offered the bread basket of warm ciabatta rolls, served with a crock of
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What’s Up? Annapolis | June 2020 | whatsupmag.com
delicious, mild, garlic butter. This gal is knowledgeable and at the top of her game, as she described the few specials of the evening. The whole Maine lobster turns out to be the best-selling entree of the restaurant, with the lobster meat taken out of the shell and cooked in butter. She described another entree item, Chef’s Whole Fish Selection, which is the Chef’s ocean-friendly, sustainable market selection and always the whole fish, so take note. Tonight, Dorade was the offering—a small, white-flesh fish from the Mediterranean. A nearby table seemed quite content filleting and flaking the fish in its entirety for each bite, after prompting from their waitress. The very popular threecourse prix fixe menu for $39 continues Monday through Wednesday with a choice of soup or salad, appetizer, and one of three
