Back in Full Swing

CARROL’S CREEK CAFÉ

DINING REVIEW

Back in Full Swing

By Rita Calvert Photography by Stephen Buchanan

fter hitting pause, Carrol’s Creek Café is back in full swing! Even the drinks taste colder on the deck with the stunning consummate waterside view of Historic Annapolis. Carrol’s Creek was greatly missed during their pandemic shutdown from just after

Thanksgiving 2020 to March 2021.

Lady luck was with us as we set off for our outdoor reservation amidst “severe thunderstorm” warnings on a warm summer day. Patio seating was generous and comfortable with umbrellas that were handily adjustable to provide consistent shade. It was a joy to see many diners enjoying indoor waterview tables as well.

We were ready for a cooling drink. The hearty wine list filled the front and back of a page with both glass pours and full bottles of “Wine for Every Occasion” with whites (including sparkling options), rose, and reds, with their countries of origin noted. American wines dominated but global favorites are also available like Malbec from Argentina and Australian Shiraz to pair with a special dish. Up for craft beer? Ask for the ambitious craft beer menu which also features beer on tap, plus Belgians, Bocks, Lagers, IPAs, and very interesting ciders, such as Chesapeake Cider from Baltimore or Blood Orange Cider from Austin, Texas. Our choice, a glass of the Wente Morning Fog Chardonnay, transported us to coastal California. Hailing from the Livermore Valley, its name is indeed based on the iconic morning fog that contributes so much to the region’s lush agriculture. My friend was very pleased, especially for less than $10, by favored elements in a perfect balance: buttery, creamy, a light oak note, with a bit of apple and lemon. It was a bonus to learn later that it is Certified Sustainable, an achievement to be supported. Next time, a bottle for the table.

With the Annapolis Harbor scene and sounds before us, we couldn’t help but focus on cold summery starters, including, of course a seafood selection...Tuna Tartare, another favorite from happy hours I often frequented. This attractive tower continues to be eye-catching and flavorful. The molded tower starts with a foundation of sushi rice. Next came the chopped fresh raw tuna tossed with ginger and soy. Ribbons of seaweed salad crowned the tuna layer. Folded layers of fresh ginger ribbons with black and tan sesame seeds topped the tower, along with a crisp triangle of fried wonton to scoop up intensely lime cucumber vinaigrette.

My dining companion was thrilled to see the Pepper Crusted Beef Tenderloin Carpaccio and chose it without hesitation—it’s so rarely available anywhere these days, which made it all the more a nice treat. Presented in paper thin slices around a pleasing salad of arugula and tangy parmesan, along with marinated artichoke and mushrooms, the dish is dressed with a faintly lemony dressing. Pretty and meaty. Some might prefer a more peppery bite, but this was very pleasing, especially with the four excellent small focaccia slices alongside the beef, each very lightly toasted and drizzled with a pungent olive oil. Topped with a horseradish aioli, it was inventive and satisfying. We even confess to having considered a second order for a moment in lieu of one of the entrees, but settled on plans for a repeat performance next time!

410 Severn Avenue, Annapolis 410-263-8102 carrolscreek.com

Pan Seared Scallops looked intriguing, with mascarpone, gruyere cheese, tasso ham risotto, a sautéed vegetable trio of red peppers, snow peas, and bean sprouts, and chive truffle oil. It was also designated gluten-free. However, thinking back to all of those shared happy hours with lamb chops, oysters, and tuna as the stars, I decided to rearrange my “main” by ordering little plates. They are still offering those divine popsicle lamb chops, so the appetizer portion would now be my entree with the Beet Salad alongside. Small plates were the way for me on this night. One could wax eloquent about the lamb dish for quite a few reasons. One is that excellent lamb is an infrequent menu item. Another is that the sauce complements the meat perfectly but could also stand alone as a show stopping dip/spread.

My other small plate, Beet Salad, arrived in a colorful assemblage with two grand beet slices riding the top. A twoinch ball of rich moist burrata (fresh mozzarella ball around a creamy filling) floated on the side while fresh orange segments and red tomato wedges topped the ruffled red/green leaf baby lettuces. Tossed with the lettuce, the dressing conveyed a hint of sweetness sans oil.

Even on a warm summer’s eve, the Cioppino called. This dish is loaded with fileted fish, mussels, clams, and shrimp and, remarkably, each was perfectly cooked, as though each had been added one by one to achieve just the right cooking time. Definitely ideal timing. Although a squeeze of lemon would have been mighty fine, the sauce had an almost indescribable quality—a mellow “low-acid” flavor. The petite baguette served with the dish was tempting us to ask for more of the focaccia served with the Beef Carpaccio, as we didn’t want to leave a drop of the excellent tomato basil sauce that let the fish star. It was perfectly balanced.

Carrol’s Creek Cafe is a celebratory restaurant. Make sure to tell your server if it’s a birthday. I was given my choice of dessert rather than just receiving a slice of cake. Espresso Creme Brûlée was the prize! A single blackberry garnished that brittle browned sugar crust, which makes the dish! Underneath was a luxurious dark thick custard oozing strong coffee essence. The not-too-sweet custard was just made for the crackly topping.

What’s new? Aside from the new rug, Carrol’s Creek is now a 100 percent tree nut- and peanut-free facility. They are currently working on making the bar beverages nut-free as well. Gluten-free is also designated on the menu. Business is booming, so reservations are suggested.

Owner Jeff Jacobs, son of Carrol’s Creek Cafe’s founding father Joseph Jacobs, claims it’s great to be back and rolling again with vaccinations calming the storm. He noted, “We’re grateful to bring our employees back and thrilled to see our customers again!”