Venice Welcome Magazine n 60 September 2021

Page 1

VENICE THE WELCOME MAGAZINE

SEPTEMBER 2021

WHEREVENICE #60

ALL YOU CAN DO IN THE CITY

Discover and enjoy this month’s round up of events and exhibitions EVENTS SIGHTSEEING MUSEUMS SHOPPING DINING ENTERTAINMENT MAPS

Welcome Smart Network

by WhereItalia MAGAZINES | GUIDES | MAPS | WEBSITES


WELCOME

THE CITY MAGAZINE

EVENTS | SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS

MILAN VENICE THE WELCOME MAGAZINE

THE WELCOME MAGAZINE

SEPTEMBER 2021

SIGHTSEEING MUSEUMS SHOPPING DINING ENTERTAINMENT MAPS

WHEREMILAN #131

WELCOME TO THE DESIGN CITY! ALL ABOUT THE SUPERSALONE

Discover and enjoy this month’s round up of events and exhibitions

SEPTEMBER 2021

DISCOVER

WHEREVENICE #60

ALL YOU CAN DO IN THE CITY

Discover and enjoy this month’s round up of events and exhibitions EVENTS SIGHTSEEING MUSEUMS SHOPPING DINING ENTERTAINMENT MAPS

A GIFT FROM YOUR HOTEL

FREE DOWNLOAD WELCOME AUDIO MAP

Welcome Smart Network

by WhereItalia MAGAZINES | GUIDES | MAPS | WEBSITES

BOSCO VERTICALE BY ANDREA CHERCHI

FLORENCE THE WELCOME MAGAZINE

SEPTEMBER 2021

WHEREFLORENCE #39

Welcome Smart Network

by WhereItalia MAGAZINES | GUIDES | MAPS | WEBSITES

TURIN THE WELCOME MAGAZINE

SEPTEMBER 2021

ALL YOU CAN DO IN THE CITY

Welcome Smart Network

by WhereItalia MAGAZINES | GUIDES | MAPS | WEBSITES

WHERETURIN #35

ALL YOU CAN DO IN THE CITY

Discover and enjoy this month’s round up of events and exhibitions

EVENTS SIGHTSEEING MUSEUMS SHOPPING DINING ENTERTAINMENT MAPS

ENJOY

Discover and enjoy this month’s round up of events and exhibitions

EVENTS SIGHTSEEING MUSEUMS SHOPPING DINING ENTERTAINMENT MAPS

Welcome Smart Network

by WhereItalia MAGAZINES | GUIDES | MAPS | WEBSITES

Welcome Smart Network

by WhereItalia MAGAZINES | GUIDES | MAPS | WEBSITES

CIT

www.whereitalia.com www.whereitalia.com

SIGHTSEE


Venice September 2021 Dear friends,

Editor tips

like everything else, the pandemic has also changed the tools for tourist information. This month Proedi-WhereItalia inaugurates also in Venice the new B AWelcome G A R O NSmart Network circuit. This is the digital and sustainable evolution of the traditional paper edition of WhereItalia monthly magazines, now in their 12th C A M PA LT O year. Magazines that continue to be distributed in the main hotels with maps of the city. All in line with the restrictions made necessary by the adoption of fundamental precautions against the virus.

32 DINING

Many new products are now appearing on the market and will see further developments in the coming months. Starting with The Welcome Smart Magazine, which will be accessed via a simple QR code that we have equipped all the hotels in Parco San Giuliano our network with.

For a romantic candle-lit dinner, head to the Bistrot de Venise restaurant, the ideal place to savour authentic, seasonal gourmet offerings.

Important research and development work was carried out in the months of the lockdown, finding solutions adapted to the new needs of incoming tourism. Everything is evolving in the direction of greater environmental sustainability, but what remains the same is the completeness of the information, the graphic quality and, of course, the punctuality.

The entire life of famous Renaissance painter, Tintoretto, revolved around a circumscribed area of Cannaregio.

ISOLA CAMPALTO

Andrea Jarach

PORTO MARGHERA

The most famous attractions to visit in Venice: monuments, churches, islands and hidden treasures.

Artisanal “botteghe” and tiny jewel-like boutiques, this city offers an array of “unique” locations where you can indulge in and authentic shopping.

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COVER IMAGE The gondola is Venice's typical craft.

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by WhereItalia MAGAZINES | GUIDES | MAPS | WEBSITES

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Welcome Smart Network

Contents

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EVENTS SIGHTSEEING MUSEUMS SHOPPING DINING ENTERTAINMENT MAPS

Information and tips to experience the best that Venice has to offer.

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Discover and enjoy this month’s round up of events and exhibitions

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ALL YOU CAN DO IN THE CITY

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WHEREVENICE #60

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SEPTEMBER 2021

With sympathy,

NESI

VENICE THE WELCOME MAGAZINE

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38 SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS

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Welcome Smart Network

Piedàterre’s classic Venetian slippers can be purchased at a charming, brightly coloured boutique located at the foot of the Rialto Bridge.

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Andrea Jarach

M E S T R E Publisher

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HIGHLIGHTS OF THE MONTH FONDACO DEI TEDESCHI The very first DFS retail space in Europe features an exceptional array of luxury products. Here, discerning visitors to Venice will find the collections of the most coveted Italian and international fashion brands, accessories, jewelry and watches, food and wines, fragrances and beauty products. An authentic shopping experience in an emblematic historic building overlooking the Grand Canal which, per se, is worth a visit: the view from the rooftop terrace is breathtaking. www.dfs.com

PH © FRAGMENT @ DFS

VENICE

THE WELCOME MAGAZINE

www.whereitalia.com/venice PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL

Via Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano. T: +39 02 25063100 info@proedimedia.com www.whereitalia.com/venice PUBLISHER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Andrea Jarach andrea.jarach@proedimedia.com MANAGING EDITOR

Alessandra Finzi redazione@proedimedia.com CONTRIBUTORS

THE MERCHANT OF VENICE Originated as a cultural project, it offers a wide range of Eau de Parfums and Eau de Toilettes, plus body and homecare products, inspired by the exquisite essences and spices that the Venetians imported from Far East to Africa, Europe and the North sea. Its prestigious standalone boutique which represents the ‘Art of Perfumery in Venice’ is housed in the former, mid-17th century apothecary of San Fantin. www.themerchantofvenice.com

Carey Bernitz, Romena Brugnerotto, Simona P.K. Daviddi, Floriana di Maio, Cornelia G. Hassmüller, Joy Lacanlale, Fabio Lancini, Giulia Minero, Elena Peverata, Chiara Zaccarelli ICONOGRAPHY

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City Map: © Proedi Comunicazione 2021 Fast Trains Network Map Dmitry Goloub © Proedi Comunicazione 2021 COO

Pierfrancesco Coreno pierfrancesco.coreno@proedimedia.com FORTUNY The Fortuny brand has been synonymous with precious fabrics for more than 100 years, an expression of Venetian craftsmanship and the timeless talent of its Spanish textile designer and founder, Mariano Fortuny. The showroom is the ideal place to browse the entire collection of precious Fortuny-branded classic, damask and floral-print fabrics, and those embellished with tribal or geometric patterns. fortuny.com

PIEDÀTERRE The classic Venetian slippers known as ‘furlane’ carrying the name of Piedàterre, can be purchased at a charming, brightlycoloured boutique located at the foot of the Rialto Bridge. At Piedàterre, lovers of light, comfortable footwear can also find slippers inspired by the 18th century opulence of the Serenissima, including ‘veneziane’ and ‘sabot’, all sewn by hand and embellished with velvet or oriental silks. www.piedaterre-venice.com

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Cristina Garbini hotelrelations@proedimedia.com REG. TRIB. MILANO No. 152, 17 JULY 2019 EDITORE: PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL - ISCRIZIONE AL ROC N.2455 DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH PRINTED BY ARTI GRAFICHE LOMBARDE VIA ISONZO 40/1/2 QUINTO DÈ STAMPI - 20089, ROZZANO (MI)

Although the Publisher has made every effort to include copyright credits, in the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would like to apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published in the next issue. The Publisher makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited.

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>> To check the opening hours of museums, restaurants, stores and outlets stay tuned on www.whereitalia.com/venice

THE WELCOME MAGAZINE È IN DISTRIBUZIONE NEI MIGLIORI HOTEL DI VENEZIA E DEL VENETO, IN VERSIONE DIGITALE O CARTACEA. THE WELCOME MAGAZINE IS DISTRIBUTED IN THE BEST HOTELS IN VENICE AND IN VENETO, IN A DIGITAL OR PAPER VERSION. www.where-venice.com/distribution

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Top in town

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BASILICA DI SAN MARCO This is the most important catholic church in the city. The original church dates back to before the year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. 5 PALAZZO DUCALE A masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, it features a number of different and intricate architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence

and government centre of the Doge sit not only houses temporary exhibitions but can also be visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. 1

Piazza San Marco, where the Grand Canal empties into the lagoon, the Punta della Dogana former harbour stands at an important point. Today it hosts important collective or monographic exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault Collection. 9

CANAL GRANDE Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Grand Canal is the main waterway of Venice. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. Almost directly opposite the

PONTE DEI SOSPIRI A Baroque bridge that, by crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from which its name derives are not those of lovers, but those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. 7 w w w.wh e re it a lia .c o m / ve ni ce   3


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TEATRO LA FENICE Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only strongly associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it is also a stunning feat of architecture. PONTE DI RIALTO This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Originally built during medieval times as a pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto Market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. It

includes as many as 120 steps. Witness to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it, but even more spectacular when seen from the water, perhaps aboard a gondola. 4 SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO A rare gem of Venetian architecture, just steps from Campo San Manin: a combination of Renaissance, Gothic and Byzantine elements. The external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell of Palazzo Contarini is enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. 7 GALLERIE DELL’ACCADEMIA They host the most important collection of Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries.

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Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo and works by several important landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The monumental complex hosting these works occupies the ancient church of Santa Maria della Carità and a complex designed by Andrea Palladio in 1561. CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE DI SAN ROCCO A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures, including an impressive number of works by Tintoretto as well those by Tiepolo and Giorgione.


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SAN GIORGIO MAGGIORE This small island is part of the panorama that can be enjoyed from St. Mark’s square and is part of the San Marco sestiere. The church of San Giorgio Maggiore is one of the masterpieces of Andrea Palladio. The monumental complex of the former Benedectine monastery (founded in the 10th century) is now home to the Cini Foundation arts centre hosting ‘Le Stanze del Vetro’ cultural project, devoted to the study and appreciation of 20th century Venetian glass art. LIDO DI VENEZIA The narrow strip of land that extends for a dozen kilometres in front of Venice, dividing the Lagoon from the Adriatic sea, is an island, a town with its own history and a natural reserve, but also a jet-setters’

paradise, with luxury hotels, the Palazzo del Cinema and exclusive Art Nouveau villas. The Lido offers beach lovers 15 km of fine sandy beaches, from the lighthouse of Punta Sabbioni to the picturesque town of Cavallino. In September, it becomes the world capital of cinema. 6 THE GHETTO The Jewish ghetto of Venice, the first ever, was established in 1516. It is located in a secluded sestiere of Cannaregio. A walk through ‘calli’, ‘campi’ and ‘campielli’’ allows visitors to soak up a magical, cocoon-like atmosphere that brings to mind Shakespeare’s play the ‘Merchant of Venice’. Here you can admire ancient synagogues, the ‘tower houses’, the ‘schole’ and the workshops.

THE ISLANDS Although the whole of Venice lies on an archipelago, an ‘excursion to the islands’ generally means a half-day cruise on a boat to visit the islands of Murano, Torcello or Burano, three charming, small islands, rich in history and tradition. Murano is famous throughout the world for its hand-blown glass (artisanal workshops still display glassmakers at work). Torcello, birthplace of the lagoon, once a thriving town with 8,000 inhabitants, is today a semi-rural island with only 17 permanent residents and two medieval churches that speak poignantly of past glories. Burano is one of the most photographed sights in the world, thanks to colourful houses reflected in its canals. It is also famous for its artisanal lace work and a particular kind of biscuit, which also resembles lace. 8 w w w.wh e re it a lia .c o m / ve ni ce   5


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PH © ZORAN KARAPANCEV / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

PH © MATTEO DE FINA

a wooden bridge in 1181, known as the ‘Ponte della Moneta’ both due to the toll that people had to pay when crossing it and because the city’s mint was located at its easternmost end. In 1250, its wooden piles were replaced by a mobile structure and its name was changed to the Rialto bridge. A dark period followed. In fact, during this time, the bridge collapsed and was damaged several times. It was only in 1588 that the Senate of the Serenissima decided to announce a competition to finally rebuild a stone bridge. Numerous renowned architects submitted their projects, including Sansovino, Vignola and Palladio. However the daring but scenically impact-making design submitted by the aptly named Antonio da Ponte was chosen. His bridge consisted of a single 22 meter stone arch span, supported by a broad rectangular deck carrying two arcades of shops and ‘botteghe’ fronting on three roadways. Legend has it that da Ponte was visited by Satan himself who, in exchange for his help, asked the architect to pledge the soul of the first person crossing the bridge to him. The architect thought that he would trick Satan by having a cock cross the bridge for the first time. However, on learning about this deception, Satan vindicated himself by tricking da Ponte’s pregnant wife into crossing the bridge. Her child was stillborn, and according to legend, his soul wandered haplessly, for years, on the Rialto bridge, until a gondolier finally helped it to cross over to the other side. Even the famous street market boasts a storied past. In fact, historic documents testify to its presence way back in 1097

Fondaco dei Tedeschi when it was much larger than its current counterpart and sold exotic goods and spices and precious fabrics. THE FAMOUS MARKET. Currently Venice’s market par excellence, it is divided into the Pescaria, where fish caught in the lagoon are sold, and the Erbaria, whose vendors sell only the freshest, seasonal fruit and vegetables. Although a visit to this market means elbowing one’s way among throngs of Venetian shoppers, the market nevertheless boasts two gems of historic and artistic interest: a loggia dating back to 1907 featuring a blaze of maritime and symbolic decorations, including a number of esoteric

elements that are mixed in with the fish, lobsters and octopi sculpted on the capitals of its colonnade. More attentive visitors will also notice a marble plaque embedded in one of its red brick facades, which shows regulations set centuries ago for minimum allowable sizes for lagoon fish. FOR SHOPPING ADDICTS. However, Rialto also means shopping. While strolling through the ‘rione’s’ tiny streets or when crossing its bridge, you’ll come across several unusual shops that are imbued with the atmosphere of a bygone era. These include antique shops, artisans’ workshops, old book binding shops where books are still bound according to time-honoured tradition, and jewelry stores selling original creations made from Murano glass beads. On the other hand, those in search of an amazing experience, should head to the old post office which now houses the Fondaco dei Tedeschi, a lavish, high-end department store and a magnificent feat of architecture that has been updated to brilliantly balance the old with new. The building boasts a marvelous terrace offering visitors a 360-degree view over Venice.

A HUB OF COMMERCE The Rialto Bridge is the dividing line between the districts of San Marco and San Polo. It is lined on both sides by shops, and includes 120 steps. Left, the Rialto Market, a one-of-a-kind place crowded with Venetians and tourists. w w w.wh e re it a lia .c o m / ve ni ce   7


WELCOME | WHAT TO DO

DISCOVER AND ENJOY In September the lagoon city turns into the world capital of cinema! A festive atmosphere intertwined with the events celebrating architecture at the Biennale 2021 and the numerous appointments of “The Venice Glass Week”. However, in these late summer weeks, don’t miss the opportunity to visit the city’s museums and landmarks, places that are symbolic of the country’s culture.

Lido di Venezia, 1-11 September BIENNALE CINEMA 2021 87th Venice International Film Festival www.labiennale.org/en/cinema/2021

Venice unrolls its red carpet

Every year, the end of summer in Venice coincides with the beginning of the eagerlyawaited Film Festival. Between world premieres and international guests the redcarpet train the spotlight on the Lagoon city. Now in its 78th edition, the Venice International Film Festival organised by La Biennale di Venezia and directed by Alberto Barbera, will take place at Venice Lido from 1 to 11 September 2021. Once again this year there will be security measures to protect those attending the Festival: 50% capacity in the halls, entry controls, compulsory bookings and green passes. An edition with the largest Italian presence ever (5 titles in competition and 3 out of competition) which is characterised by a higher quality than usual, as if “the pandemic had served to stimulate everyone’s creativity”, as if we were in a “moment of grace”, in the words of Director Barbera.

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Official poster

Italian illustrator and author Lorenzo Mattotti is, for the fourth year in a row, the author of the image for the official poster, and for the third year in a row of the opening sequence for the Venice International Film Festival of La Biennale di Venezia.


Special lifetime achievement awards

THE NUMBERS

72

new feature films in the Official Selection

59

countries represented JAMIE LEE CURTIS, American actress. “Descended in direct line from the aristocracy of American cinema, as the daughter of two unforgettable stars such as Tony Curtis and Janet Leigh, she is the natural embodiment of the star capable of playing versatile and available roles, with great charisma and an uncommon personality. The combination of these qualities, together with her work as a writer of children’s books and her philanthropic commitment, have over time cemented her status as an international artist.” (Alberto Barbera)

ROBERTO BENIGNI, director, actor and screenwriter. “With admirable eclecticism, without ever renouncing to be himself, he has gone from being one of the most extraordinary comic actors of the rich gallery of Italian performers, to being a memorable director capable of making films of enormous popular impact, and finally becoming the most appreciated interpreter and divulger of Dante’s Divine Comedy.” (Alberto Barbera)

21

films competing in the “Venezia 78” section

19

films competing in the “Orizzonti” section

18

short films

5

Italian films in competition

3

The opening and closing nights of venezia 78

Italian films out of competition

Neapolitan actress, singer and presenter Serena Rossi will open the 78th Venice Film Festival on the evening of Wednesday 1 September, on the stage of the Sala Grande (Palazzo del Cinema on the Lido) for the inauguration ceremony, and will host the closing ceremony on Saturday 11 September, with the announcement of the winners of the Lions and other official awards of the78th Venice Film Festival.

The best of the International Cinema the program of this 78th Festival is proof of the extraordinary vitality of contemporary cinema. Far from being felled by the Coronavirus and by the technological revolution that is destined to radically change the rules of the game with which we have cohabited for its entire first century of life, cinema will continue to amaze, astound, captivate, and affect.”

PH © ASAC

With regards to the program, the Director of the 78th Venice International Film Festival Alberto Barbera stated: “Even more than usual, this year’s lineup reflects the vocation to give voice to the multitude of perspectives, genres, and cinematographic areas that has always characterized the Festival's program.” (…) “I feel I can state that

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WELCOME | WHAT TO DO

Paul Newman

The ‘prima donna’ of the world cinema

Brigitte Bardot

The timeless, unique charm of Venice has transformed the city into the lead player of famous films. You may say Venice, but you actually mean the Lido. The Lido, meaning beach in Italian, is that narrow strip of land extending for about a dozen kilometres in front of the Serenissima. It’s here that the Film Festival is set. In fact, the Lido has played host to the Film Festival since August 1932, when the first edition of the ‘Festival di Arte

Camera, lights, action! The ‘campielli’ and canals acted as a backdrop to the love story between Florinda Bolkan and Tony Musante in ‘Anonimo Veneziano’, 1970, while the Lido and the Grand Hotel Des Bains were immortalized in ‘Death in Venice’ (1971) in a film by Luchino Visconti. Prior to that, in 1963, several scenes from ‘From Russia with Love’, in which Sean Connery plays James Bond, were shot on the Island of San Giorgio, on a gondola under the Bridge of Sighs, and at the Danieli Hotel. In 1979, it was the turn of another James Bond, Roger Moore, who starred in

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Cinematografica’ was held on the terrace of the Lido’s most iconic hotel, the Hotel Excelsior, attended by almost every major name in the world of showbiz: in no particular order, Greta Garbo, Clark Gable, Vittorio De Sica, Joan Crawford, Al Pacino, Sean Penn, Salma Hayek, Marlon Brando, Scarlett Johansson, Nicole Kidman, George Clooney, Kevin Costner, Martin Scorsese, Harrison Ford and the Italians: Federico Fellini, Alberto Sordi, Sofia Loren, Monica Bellucci, Claudia Cardinale, Pier Paolo Pasolini and Gina Lollobrigida. Even Charlie Chaplin attended the event in 1972, as did the eccentric Salvador Dalì in 1958.

'Moonraker' which was shot in Murano and at the Glass Museum. More recently, Steven Spielberg’s, 'Indiana Jones and The Last Crusade' (1989) immortalized Harrison Ford near the church of San Barnaba. Views and canals were also lead players in ‘Everyone Says I Love You’ (1969) starring Woody Allen and Julia Roberts while, more recently, yet another James Bond, Daniel Craig, the lead player in 'Casino Royale' (2006) was seen speeding along the Lagoon. Finally, the list can only end with 'The Tourist', where Venice acts as a backdrop to the incredible adventures of Angelina Jolie and Johnny Depp.


REAL AND IMAGINARY LOCATIONS ▼ THE CASINÒ The monumental Palazzo del Casinò was built in 1938 and designed in Italian rationalist style, typical of the Fascist era. In stark contrast to its austere travertine stone façade, its spacious interiors were decorated with marble, mosaics and artistic Murano glass, and were used for gaming and entertainment. Its entrance, for those arriving from Venice, consisted of a long corridor decorated with mirrors and curtains connected to a monumental staircase and elevators. The Casinò was closed at the end of the 1990s, and, since that time, its spaces have mainly been used for festival-related press services, including press conferences and screenings for the public and industry members.

▲ HOTEL EXCELSIOR Overlooking the beach of Venice’s Lido, this 5-star resort, built in Moorish style, opened its doors to the public in July 1908 with a legendary opening party, attended by more than 30,000 Venetians and more than 3,000 international guests. Designed with the idea of recreating a luxury Venetian palace, the hotel soon became the destination of choice for the beau monde and Middle-European high society. Over the years, its roster of famous guests has included Winston Churchill, the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, Marlene Dietrich, Ingrid Bergman and the Aga Khan. The first edition of the Venice Film Festival was held on its terrace in 1932 and, today, with its 196 rooms and suites and exclusive private beaches, it continues to be ‘the place to be’ during the Film Festival. An interesting fact related to the theme of celluloid. One of the cult scenes of ‘Once Upon a Time in America’, where the two starring actors dine in a luxurious restaurant reserved exclusively for them, was shot in the Excelsior’s sumptuous Sala degli Stucchi. (www.hotelexcelsiorvenezia.com)

▲ HOTEL DES BAINS Another hotel which, at the beginning of the 20th century, irrevocably changed the face of the Lido, becoming an integral part of that aura of glamour with which Venice’s Film Festival is associated. Built in 1900, in Italian Liberty style, and despite being closed several times due to a series of unfortunate circumstances, the Des Bains was chosen as a set for a number of famous films including Anthony Minghella’s ‘English Patient’ and Luchino Visconti’s ‘Death in Venice’, a film adaption of the melancholy novel by Thomas Mann, who was also an aficionado of the hotel. In the last scene of the film, we see the lead actor slumped on a deck chair, silhouetted in the background by the luxurious white and blue beach huts that made this stretch of beach famous. Although the hotel is now closed, its communal rooms decorated in deco style, its art nouveau furniture and its long beach, reminiscent of the melancholy atmosphere of the 1930s, inevitably transport us to that period of intellectual vibrancy and exclusive luxury which have now been lost.

PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK

▼ PALAZZO DEL CINEMA Famous Italian film director Federico Fellini once commented that “Entering Venice’s Palazzo del Cinema is like passing a final exam.” This imposing modernist building, opened in August 1937, was renovated several times over the years to adapt to the requirements of the increasing need for space. Today, the only remaining elements of the original building are its two rounded sides and lateral facades. Designed to accommodate up to 1,032 people, the Sala Grande – where the main screenings and award ceremonies of the Festival are held – underwent a series of transformations. The final phase, completed in 2011, involved a radical restoration of its interiors.

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WELCOME | WHAT TO DO

UNTIL 22 NOVEMBER

A DESIRE FOR ARCHITECTURE

The 17th International Architecture Exhibition is titled How will we live together? and is curated by architect, educator, and scholar Hashim Sarkis. The exhibition includes 112 participants from 46 countries, with a growing delegation from Africa, Latin America and Asia and with comparable representation of men and women. It is organized into five scales, three are exhibited in the Arsenale and two in the Central Pavilion (Giardini): Among Diverse Beings, As New Households, As Emerging Communities, Across Borders, As One Planet. A part of the Exhibition is titled How will we play together?, a contribution by 5 international participating architects who have designed a project dedicated to children’s play, on exhibit at Forte Marghera. 62 National Participations bring to life the historic Pavilions in the Giardini, at the Arsenale and in the historic city centre of Venice, with 3 countries taking part in the Biennale Architettura for the first time: Grenada, Iraq, Uzbekistan. The Italian Pavilion at the Tese delle Vergini in the Arsenale, sponsored and promoted by the Ministry of Culture, is curated by Alessandro Melis who presents “Comunità resilienti”. 17th International Architecture Exhibition How will we live together? Giardini, Arsenale, Forte Marghera Open 10am-6pm. Closed on Monday www.labiennale.org PH © JACOPO SALVI

Giardini

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Arsenale


PH © ANDREA AVEZZÙ

THE TITLE

How: Speaks to practical approaches and concrete solutions, highlighting the primacy of problem-solving in architectural thinking. Will: Signals looking toward the future but also seeking vision and determination, drawing from the power of the architectural imaginary. We: Is first person plural and thus inclusive of other peoples, of other species, appealing to a more empathetic understanding of architecture. Live: Means not simply to exist but to thrive, to flourish, to inhabit, and to express life, tapping into architecture’s inherent optimism.

PH © ANDREA AVEZZÙ

Together: Implies collectives, commons, universal values, highlighting architecture as a collective form and a form of collective expression. ?: Indicates an open question, not a rhetorical one, looking for (many) answers, celebrating the plurality of values in and through architecture. By Hashim Sarkis, curator

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WELCOME | WHAT TO DO Right: the Italian Pavilion at the Tese delle Vergini in Arsenale, curated by Alessandro Melis.

PH © IRENE FANIZZA

Below, clockwise: the “Maison Fibre” installation by Achim Menges and Jan Knippers is on show at the Arsenale. “Displaced Empire” by Akra Aksamija is part of the "Co-Habitats" section (Arsenale). At Giardini you can visit “The World Turned Inside Out” by Plan B Architecture & Urbanism.

Italian Pavilion

PH © MARCO ZORZANELLO

Displaced Empire

Maison Fibre

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PH © MARCO ZORZANELLO

PH © MARCO ZORZANELLO

The World Turned Inside Out


THE INTERNATIONAL JURY The Jury, chaired by Kazuyo Sejima, will award the official prizes. The Awards Ceremony will take place on Monday 30 August 2021.

PH © ANDREA AVEZZÙ

AN EXHIBITION WITHIN THE EXHIBITION Following the call by the curator of the Biennale Architettura 2021, Hashim Sarkis, to envision a space at the centre of the exhibition where all participants can come together, Studio Other Spaces and the project co-designers have proposed a multilateral contribution on the mezzanine of the Central Pavilion at the Giardini.

PH © PIERO BARDI

Lina Bo Bardi, the Italian architect, designer, scenographer, artist and critic naturalized as a Brazilian citizen, is the recipient of the Special Golden Lion for Lifetime Achievement in memoriam of the 17thInternational Architecture Exhibition.

PH COURTESY OF INSTITUTO BARDI

SPECIAL GOLDEN LION

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WELCOME | WHAT TO DO

UNTIL 1 NOVEMBER ▲ GLASS ANIMALS

The “The Glass Ark. Animals in the Pierre Rosenberg Collection” exhibition at “Le Stanze del Vetro” will retrace – in an original and fascinating way – the history of 20th-century Murano glass from an unusual angle: the glass animal. The over 750 works of art – representing, among others, elephants, hippos, cats, giraffes, bears, parrots, fish, turtles, foxes and tiny, lampworked life-sized insects – belong to the personal collection that Pierre Rosenberg, art historian and former Director/President of the Louvre in Paris, put together over thirty years. https://lestanzedelvetro.org Photo ©: Two Octopuses in Murano glass with details in murrine and black and white paste, 1930s and 1950s. Ph. Enrico Fiorese

4-12 SEPTEMBER

UNIQUE GLASS FESTIVAL

The Venice Glass Week, the international festival that the city of Venice dedicates to the art of glassmaking, is back again this year. Glass-making is a skill with ancient traditions, rooted in the DNA of Venice, an artistic and productive engine that has been handed down to this day, innovating and becoming an Italian pride, appreciated all over the world. The fifth edition of the festival offers both a programme of events - exhibitions, demonstrations, guided tours - and special digital appointments that place reflection on “making” glass today at the centre of the international debate. To keep up to date with all the events: www.theveniceglassweek.com The Venice Glass Week. 5th edition #VivaVetro! www.theveniceglassweek.com

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PEGGY GUGGENHEIM COLLECTION

NEW SETUP

PH © MATTEO DE FINA

One of the most important museums of European and American art of the twentieth century in Italy has reopened. It is located in Peggy Guggenheim’s former home, Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, on the Grand Canal in Venice and presents her personal collection, masterpieces from the Hannelore B. and Rudolph B. Schulhof collection, a sculpture garden as well as temporary exhibitions. With the Gallerie dell’Accademia, the Galleria di Palazzo Cini and Palazzo Grassi-Punta della Dogana it is connected in the Dorsoduro Museum Mile, a unique cultural itinerary along eight centuries of art. Peggy Guggenheim Collection Palazzo Venier dei Leoni Dorsoduro 701. Online ticketing is mandatory. www.guggenheim-venice.it

UNTIL 27 NOVEMBER 2022 ◄ DIALOGUE BETWEEN

ANCIENT AND CONTEMPORARY

Two new projects reinforce the dialogue between the ancient and the contemporary, in a unique place in the architectural and historical-artistic panorama of the city. The refurbishment of “La Sala del Doge”, which will return to its Renaissance splendour, and the “Archinto” exhibition featuring new works by German artist Georg Baselitz, some of which were created specifically for the Palazzo, will remain on loan to the museum. This is the first time in Venice that we have seen such a collaboration between a contemporary artist and a state museum. DOMUS GRIMANI. La Sala del Doge and “Archinto” by Georg Baselitz Museo di Palazzo Grimani a Santa Maria Formosa. Castello, 4858 polomusealeveneto.beniculturali.it w w w.wh e re it a lia .c o m / ve ni ce   17


WELCOME | WHAT TO DO

UNTIL 21 NOVEMBER ▲ WHEN THE CURTAIN OPENS,

WHAT WILL WE SEE?

In the inner courtyard of Fondaco dei Tedeschi, a luxury department store and cultural centre for the city of Venice, visitors become spectators, participants in an experience with an uncertain outcome, like the one experienced during the pandemic. Four long red curtains, suspended from the fourth floor, the courtyard and the water gate conceal a performance whose plot is unknown. “Second Act” is the name of this site-specific installation by Dutch artist and designer Maarten Baas (in collaboration with set designer Theun Mosk), on the occasion of the Architecture Biennale. On the fourth floor you can also visit “Sweepers”, an exhibition that is part of the famous Real-Time Clocks series. SECOND ACT by Maarten Baas (in collaboration with Theun Mosk) Fondaco dei Tedeschi. Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge). www.dfs.com PHOTOS © MATTEO DE FINA

UNTIL 21 NOVEMBER

PH © MARCO CAPPELLETTI

REJECTION OR REINVENTION OF PAINTING?

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Described by Swiss artist Peter Fischli as “a kaleidoscope of repudiated gestures”, the project explores a series of specific ruptures within the history of painting in the last 150 years. It intends to understand if a further development is taking place today and if the current digital revolution can also cause a new crisis of painting or, on the contrary, contribute to its renewal. The artist devised this exhibition as a plurality of different narratives told by himself in the first person, with more than 110 artworks by over 80 artists. “Stop Painting” an exhibition by Peter Fischli Fondazione Prada. Santa Croce, 2215 (Ca’ Corner della Regina) fondazioneprada.org


PH © MARCO CAPPELLETTI

UNTIL 9 JANUARY 2022 ▲ THE CONTEMPORARY EXPERIMENTS OF NAUMAN

“Bruce Nauman: Contrapposto Studies”, curated by Carlos Basualdo and Caroline Bourgeois in close collaboration with the artist himself, is part of the series of monographic exhibitions organised by Palazzo Grassi with the active participation of the artist at the heart of the show. The major exhibition dedicated to Bruce Nauman (1941, Indiana, USA) is an homage to one of the major figures of the contemporary art international scene and to his constant exploration of the artist studio as a space where creation takes place, of the body through performances and of sound. The unique exhibition at Punta della Dogana brings together older works and the most recent ones, some of which have never been exhibited in Europe before. The exhibition in Venice is focused on a series of recent video installations that Nauman has developed in the last five years and are related to a single channel video from 1968, “Walk with Contrapposto.”

WORK IN PROGRESS AT THE GALLERIE DELL’ACCADEMIA

PH © UGO CARMENI

Bruce Nauman: Contrapposto Studies. Punta della Dogana. Campo San Samuele 3231 / Dorsoduro, 2. www.palazzograssi.it

▲ THE PALACE OF DOGE GRIMANI IS REBORN

On the occasion of the celebrations for the 1600th anniversary of the birth of Venice, and after a major restoration, Palazzo Vendramin Grimani, the 18th-century residence of the humanist doge Pietro Grimani, opens to the public for the first time. The precious 16th-century building overlooking the Grand Canal will guide visitors on a journey through the paintings in the Grimani Albero d’Oro family’s collections, as well as unpublished photographs by Patrick Tourneboeuf, which tell the story of the palace’s evolution before and after the work.

The world’s largest collection of Veneto art has reopened in recent weeks, returning visitors to the corridor designed by Andrea Palladio (after two years of restoration): an absolute premiere while awaiting the completion of the new exhibition layout. The rearrangement work will gradually lead to the opening of new sections, such as the room dedicated to the reconstruction of the ceiling of Palazzo Corner Spinelli, painted by Giorgio Vasari, the opening of a room dedicated to the Bassano canvases, the setting up of a new room for the exhibition of graphic masterpieces from the Cabinet of Drawings, one of the richest collections in Italy, with no less than 20 drawings by Leonardo da Vinci. The Gallerie dell’Accademia has also announced that British Indian sculptor Anish Kapoor will be the first British artist to be honoured with a major exhibition at the museum. The exhibition, postponed from 2021 because of the pandemic, will be presented during the Venice International Art Biennale in 2022, opening on 20 April and running until 9 October 2022. Gallerie dell’Accademia. Dorsoduro, 1050 (Campo della Carità). www.gallerieaccademia.it

Palazzo Vendramin Grimani. San Polo, 2033. www.fondazionealberodoro.org w w w.wh e re it a lia .c o m / ve ni ce   19


PH © TILL NIERMANN

WELCOME | WHAT TO DO

UNTIL 9 JANUARY 2022 ▲ AUTHOR’S GLANCES

An extensive retrospective devoted to one of Italy's greatest photographers, a tireless narrator of the world, Mario De Biasi. 216 photographs, half of them previously unpublished, recount major historical events, exotic journeys, portraits of powerful and famous people, scenes from everyday life or anonymous faces, right through to conceptual and abstract works. Considered a “neo-realist photoamateur”, De Biasi is a witness to a 20th century that today seems distant - his images of Italy with its desire for rebirth after the devastation of war, or certain memorable views of New York are famous - but also capable of an intimate look at nature and people. MARIO DE BIASI. Fotografie 1947-2003 Casa dei Tre Oci. Giudecca, 43. www.treoci.org Ph © MARIO DE BIASI - Maria Callas, Venezia, 1957 Ph © MARIO DE BIASI - Fellini e Masina, Venezia, 1955

PHOTO © VENICE URBAN PHOTO PROJECT / MARIO PELITI

5 SEPTEMBER 2021 – 9 JANUARY 2022

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IMMERSIVE JOURNERY IN VENICE

After six months of renovating works, Palazzo Grassi will reopen to the public on 5 September with “HYPERVENEZIA”, an exhibition specifically dedicated to the city of Venice on the occasion of the 1600th anniversary of its foundation. A show presenting for the first time to the public the #VeniceUrbanPhotoProject conceived and realised by Mario Peliti, who since 2006 has been mapping the city in an ambitious archive of photographs of the city of Venice, which to date has reached over 12,000 shots, all in black and white and with no people around. HYPERVENEZIA Palazzo Grassi. Campo San Samuele, 3231 www.palazzograssi.it


2021 EVENTS IN ITALY

Find the next year calendar on www.whereitalia.com/venice

Dante 2021 Celebrating Dante Alighieri, the father of the Italian language also means celebrating the symbol that tells of Italy to the world, of its humanism and its identity made of beauty and warm hospitality. To commemorate the 700th anniversary of his death, a full calendar of initiatives has been created involving the three cities associated with Dante (Ravenna, Verona and Florence) in the coming months, which will continue until Sunday 12 September 2021. On that date, Maestro Riccardo Muti will climb onto the podium for a concert in Piazza San Francesco in Ravenna, a performance that will also be repeated in Florence and Verona. The programme of events will reach its culmination with the inauguration of the Museum of the Italian Language at Santa Maria Novella.

SEPTEMBER 1-11/9 | Venice | International Exhibition of Cinematographic Art. www.labiennale.org 4-17/9 | Venice | #VivaVetro (The Venice Glass Week 5th edition). www.theveniceglassweek.com 5-8/9 | Milan | HOMI The lifestyle Trade Fair @ Fieramilanocity & MiCo. www.homimilano.com 5-10/9 | | Milan | SUPERSALONE and Fuorisalone www.salonemilano.it + Milano Design Week. www.milanodesignweek.org 8-26/9 | Milan | MiTo SettembreMusica www.mitosettembremusica.it 10-14/9 | Vicenza | VicenzaOro. www.vicenzaoro.com 12/9 | Monza (Milan) | Formula 1. Italian Grand Prix. www.formula1.com 13-19/9 | Milan | Milano Artweek milanoartweek.comune.milano.it 16-21/9 | Genoa | International Boat Show (61st edition). www.salonenautico.com 17-19/9 | Milan | MIART. www.miart.it 17-19/9 | Milan | Orticola di Lombardia. www.orticola.org 17-19/9 | Pitti Fragranze | Stazione Leopolda (Florence). fragranze.pittimmagine.com 18-20/9 | Milan | HOMI Fashion & Jewels. www.homifashionjewels.com 18/9-9/10 | Viareggio (Tuscany) | Carnevale di Viareggio. viareggio.ilcarnevale.com 19/9 | Rome | Acea Run Rome The Marathon. www.runromethemarathon.com 19-21/9 | Milan | Mipel. mipel.com 19-21/9 | Milan | Micam. milano.themicam.com 19-21/9 | Milan | The One Milano. www.theonemilano.com 21-27/9 | Milan | Milano Moda Donna. www.cameramoda.it 22-24/9 | Milan | Lineapelle. www.lineapelle-fair. OCTOBER 2-10/10 | Milan | Milano Wine Week. www.milanowineweek.com

7-10/10 | Milan | MIA Milan Image Art Fair @ Superstudio Maxi. www.miafair.it 9/10– 5/12 | Alba (Piedmont) | International Alba White Truffle Fair. www.fieradeltartufo.org 10/10 | Trieste | Barcolana. www.barcolana.it 10-12/10 | Milan | World Routes. www.routesonline.com 12-13/10 | Milan | SMAU. www.smau.it 14-18/10 | Turin | International Bookfair (33rd edition). www.salonelibro.it 15-24/10 | Perugia | Eurochocolate. www.eurochocolate.com 17-19/10 | Verona | Vinitaly (54th edition). www.vinitaly.com 22-26/10 | Milan | TuttoFood. Milano World Food Exhibition. www.tuttofood.it and Host Milano. host.fieramilano.it NOVEMBER 5-7/11 | Turin | Artissima 28th edition. www.artissima.art 5-9 /11| | Merano (Trentino-Alto Adige) | Merano Wine Festival. www.meranwinefestival.com 17-21/11 | Milan | BookCity Milano. bookcitymilano.it and Music Week. www.milanomusicweek.it 21/11 | Venice | Festa della Salute. venice.whereitalia.com 25-28/11 | Milan | EICMA International Motorcycle and Accessories Exhibition. www.eicma.it End of November | Venice | Teatro La Fenice – Opening of the Opera Season. www. teatrolafenice.it DECEMBER 7/12| Milan | Teatro alla Scala – Opening of the Opera Season: "Machbeth" by Giuseppe Verdi (conductor: Riccardo Chailly). www.teatroallascala.org

Poet, man of letters, politician, philosopher and theologian, Dante Alighieri (Florence 1265-Ravenna 1321) is a pillar of European and world literature and represents an entire culture. His “Divine Comedy”, which for centuries has been considered the greatest work written in the Italian language and one of the masterpieces of world literature, describes a journey into the afterlife, witnessing first-hand the dramas and suffering of the damned, the punishments to which they are subjected and the glories they have earned. A journey into history and mankind, filled with emotions, hopes and eternal feelings. The main sites in Florence that will host the events will include the Uffizi Galleries, the theatre of the Maggio Musicale Fiorentino, the University of Florence, the Accademia della Crusca, the Galileo Museum, the Fondazione Franco Zeffirelli, the Bargello and the Casa di Dante Museum. www.700dantefirenze.it

This image by press photographer Massimo Sestini shows a view of Piazza Santa Croce with the statue of Dante in the foreground. Dante’s empty tomb (cenotaph) is held in the Basilica of Santa Croce but he is actually buried in Ravenna. w w w.wh e re it a lia .c o m / ve ni ce   21


[ W E L C O M E T O I TA L I A]

Dream experiences To discover the beauties of the city or to try out special experiences, Welcome to Italia offers you some unmissable opportunities. Choose whether to take part in exclusive city tours or book the outdoor experience you’ve been dreaming of for this season: www.welcometoitalia.com

WALKING TOUR FROM SAN MARCO TO RIALTO Guided walking tour from Piazza San Marco to the Rialto area, with a special visit to the Doge’s Palace and its marvelous artworks. Discover some of the most important points of interest and incredible legends of Venice.

THE SPECIAL ONES YUMMY COOKING CLASS IN VENICE

How to prepare some real Venetian food? An award-winning chef will guide you through the cooking secrets using only fresh and local products. You will prepare hand-made fresh pasta and a typical dessert.

CLICK & BUY

CLICK & BUY

ROMANTIC GONDOLA RIDE IN THE LAGOON

Enjoy the romantic side of the city in a magical gondola ride with your beloved. This tour will let you discover the city from a different point of view and includes a lovely meal at a sophisticated Venetian restaurant. CLICK & BUY

CREATE YOUR PERSONAL GLASS-ARTWORK

A private lesson with a glassmaker to learn the secrets of the most famous Venetian craftsmanship. Here you can create your personal glass-artwork and discover the secrets of this old-centuries art.

CLICK & BUY

HISTORICAL WALKING TOUR OF VENICE

Discover the main monuments in the heart of Venice: an expert guide will escort you in the labyrinth of Venetian “calli” and “campielli” from the St. Mark’s Basilica to the Rialto Bridge. This is the real soul of the city! CLICK & BUY

HOW TO LIVE VENICE AND ITS ISLANDS

Seven unique itineraries and 200 points of interest to find out stories and legends about Venice: a wonderful self-guided tour to live the city with an audioguide discovering palaces and old taverns where you can stop for a glass of wine. CLICK & BUY

Discover other experiences: www.welcometoitalia.com

YOUR CARNIVAL MASK IN A SPECIAL COURSE

Your instructor will explain all about the ancient technique of making a Venetian paper-mâché mask, providing information about the use of masks in Venice during the past centuries. Then, keep your mask as a very special souvenir.

CLICK & BUY


Live your dream and get your experience in a click

Welcome to Italia network promotes the Italian tourist heritage, combining selected contents with high-quality experiences.

www.welcometoitalia.com


SHOPPING

A blend of luxury and sustainability The classic Venetian slippers known as ‘furlane’ carrying the name of Piedàterre, can be purchased at a charming, brightly-coloured boutique located at the foot of the Rialto Bridge. By Giulia Minero

T

he story behind furlane, the classic Venetian slippers with the rubber sole used by gondoliers to prevent them scuffing the precious woodwork of their gondolas, is inextricably linked to the peasant culture of the nearby region of Friuli Venezia Giulia. At the end of the Second World War, shortages inflicted by the war meant that leather shoes were inaccessible to most of the population. This resulted in the idea of using old bicycle tires for the soles, jute sacks used to carry grain as padding, and recycled scraps of material for the uppers. Hence the birth of the furlane. Credit for their widespread use in Venice goes to a small stall at the foot of the Rialto

Bridge, where the Piedàterre boutique now stands, which has been handcrafting furlane using traditional techniques for decades, but with the addition of innovative designs and fabrics. At Piedàterre, lovers of light, comfortable footwear can also find slippers inspired by the 18th century opulence of the Serenissima, including ‘veneziane’ and ‘sabot’, all sewn by hand and embellished with velvet or oriental silks. More discerning customers, searching for a unique pair of furlane slip-ons, can bring their own fabric and have a pair custom-made by the boutique’s expert artisans. Piedàterre handcrafts bespoke footwear for men, women and children.

Piedàterre boutique, where the footwear becomes art

24  V E N I C E T H E W E LC O M E M A G A Z I N E I S E P T E M B E R 2 021

>> Piedàterre San Polo, 60 - Rialto T: 041 5285513. Map E4 www.piedaterre-venice.com


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/VENICE

Guidelines

ACCESSORIES

This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors and includes regular advertisers.

Giuliana Longo

MAP LOCATIONS - Note that references in bold at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 46-47. TRANSPORT - References to vaporetto lines and stops are based on departure from the Santa Lucia railway station. SHOPPING - This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Based on statistical evidence, the most popular luxury brands are grouped under the separate category “Top Brands”, which be found on page 23. Sevelar unusual shops, stocking items and rarities for collectors or aficionados in specific product categories, are listed under “Passion Shopping” rather than in the standard shopping sections. Shopping hours are generally from 10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Venice) and on Monday mornings. Ask your concierge. Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.

»

TAX-FREE SHOPPING

By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund.

DINING

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30€ or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. SIGHTSEEING

Information about our selection of museums and monuments is checked as carefully as possible. However, opening hours and site accessibility are subject to change depending on the time of the year. Ask your concierge. All details are correct at the time of going to press but several details can change: ask your concierge to double-check all information.

A milliner boasting a longstanding family tradition dating back to the early 20th century, Giuliana Longo’s fame has spread far beyond the boundaries of Venice, thanks to her unique Venetian aesthetic. Her shop is the dream hat-cupboard of any true sartorialist, amidst old-world furnishings, original panama hats and handmade headgear. PASSION TIP The only shop in town where you can find authentic gondolier’s hats. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.giulianalongo.com. San Marco, 4813 (Calle del Lovo). T: 041 5226454. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Michele De Fina Highly select leather bags, its owner oversees each stage of the working process from the cutting of the leather to the end creation. Craftsmanship and Italian style are the hallmark traits of Venetian bag designer Michele De Fina. Open daily 10am-1pm/2pm-7pm. www. micheledefina.com. San Marco, 1822 (Frezzaria). T: 041 5220664. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop or San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

ANTIQUES Antichi Splendori Devoted to the ongoing search for objet d’art and antiques, the mission of this highly qualified antique dealer is to keep the interest in authentic masterpieces alive. Its San Lio-based store in Venice offers a careful selection of the city’s artistic treasures, with a particular focus on antique jewelry, Murano glass from the 11th to 20th centuries and paintings of Venetian landscapes. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-7pm. Castello, 5545 (Salizada S. Lio) T: 041 5239265. info@antichisplendori.com. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Antichità San Samuele An antiques dealer since the Seventies, Silvana Vianello is renowned for her research and expertise in the field. PASSION TIP San Samuele specializes in religious antiques, with a particular focus on sculptures dating from the 13th through 18th centuries. Open: Mon-Sat 10am-12.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. San Marco, 3130 (Calle delle Botteghe). T: 041 5204900. Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop). Map E4

Antichità Zanutto Continuing a longstanding family tradition, in the 1970s, Vincenzo Zanutto chose San Marco to open his workshop specializing in antique paintings, with a particular focus on Venetian artists. Also offers evaluations and certified appraisals. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am12.30pm/4.30pm-7.30pm. San Marco, 2013 (Calle delle Veste, near the Teatro La Fenice). T: 041 5235359. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio or San Marco stop). Map E5

Le Zoie Michele Dal Bon’s atelier is infused with personality. PASSION TIP This eclectic shop showcase rare antique watches and jewelry but also specializes in collections that are unlikely to be found elsewhere, including objects inspired by ancient ‘theriaca’, a medical concoction also known as Venice treacle. Open Tues-Sat 9.30am1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. www.lezoie.com.

The emotion of a jewel

Salvadori established its first store in the magical city of Venice in 1857. At that time, it only carried watches, period bedside and travel alarm clocks, grandfather clocks and wall clocks. However, it was only thanks to Gabriele Pendini, the company’s longtime president who had a passion for gemstones, that Salvadori became a tangible expression of high-class, sought-after jewelry. Today, Salvadori Diamond Atelier interprets every desire with style and experience, offering women emotions that go straight to the heart. Don’t miss the new Sospiri collection, inspired by the Bridge of Sighs in Venice, a symbol of love and romance. The collection was designed and created by designer Marzia Pendini, who was inspired by the history of the bridge and fascinated by the structure of the small windows with its unique geometries. All the jewellery pieces - rings, earrings and pendants - are made of white or pink gold and are each set with 5 diamonds that mark the junction points of the intertwining design. NEW ONLINE SALES

Salvadori Diamond Atelier - Venice Piazza San Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609 www.salvadoridiamondatelier.com

w w w.wh e re it a lia .c o m / ve ni ce   25


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La Bottega dei Mascareri The workshop of the Boldrin brothers specializes in the crafting of a variety of papier mache Venetian masks, including jesters, elves and characters from the G I dell’Arte’ U D E for C aCtripAback into 18th century ‘Commedia Venice. The Mascareri have also worked for the theatre, the cinemas and fashion shows, and are considered Santissimo Redentore among several of the most established manufacturers Santa Croce of collector’s items. They were the first mask makers to embellish their masks with decorations by Tiepolo. Open daily 9am-6pm. www.mascarer.com. San Polo, 80. Hundertwasser' Garden T: 041 5223857 and San Polo, 2720. T: 041 5242887. Map E3 FON

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Santajewel-like Maria Artisanal ‘botteghe’, tiny boutiques del Giglio San Vidal and vintage shops,Palazzo this 'unique' city offers Corner Ca' Giustinian U R O an array of 'unique'Ca’Granda della locations where you Palazzo Ponte Pisani dell'Accademia Gritti canGallerie indulge in an authentic shopping Canal Grande dell'Accademia Palazzo Collezione Peggy Genovese experience and purchase objet d’art, fabrics San Trovaso Guggenheim Punta della Dogana Basilica di San Gregorio Santa put Maria to and accessories that you'll be hard della Salute find Santa Maria elsewhere. While strolling through its del Rosario Sant’Agnese esa di Santa Maria della Visitazione ‘calli’, you will discover how the tradition cultivated by the latter endows this city with Spirito Santo its characteristic vibrancy… BA

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San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale

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Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola

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Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

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La Bottega dei Mascareri

Eredi Jovon A celebrated Venetian jeweler since 1934, and the owner of one of the few remaining historical shops on the Rialto bridge, Eredi Jovon is famous for its hand-carved Italian shell and blue agate cameos, set in silver or gold, and available at factory prices or on special offer. The shop is also renowned for its beautiful coral, Murano glass and ISOLA LA GRAZIA blackamoor jewelry. High quality, superior craftsmanship and its wide assortment of cameos and customized coral jewelry allow Eredi Jovon to satisfy the individual tastes of even the most discerning customers. WHERE TIP On request, Eredi Jovon creates customized portrait cameos based on photos or digital files. Thanks to an efficient e-commerce service, all creations can be ordered online and shipped worldwide. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.eredijovon.com. Ponte di Rialto, 5325. T: 041 5228979 Map F4 Piedàterre Tucked away under an arcade just steps from the Rialto bridge is a tiny boutique with an astonishing selection of handmade slippers, where Alessandra and Renato make and sell colourful ‘furlane’ (slippers), handcrafted with recycled bicycle-tyre treads, ideal for finding your footing on a gondola. Their creations are available in coloured velvet, brocade, printed fabrics or recycled shirting, provided byISOLA their customers. Highly original SAN CLEMENTE and absolutely unmissable! Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.piedaterre-venice.com. San Polo, 60 (Ruga Rialto, Sotoportego dei Oresi). T: 041 5285513. Map E3

26  V E N I C E T H E W E LC O M E M A G A Z I N E I S E P T E M B E R 2 021

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SAN SERVOLO

Eredi Jovon

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[ FA SHION DESIGNERS]

Top Brands DEPARTMENT STORE FONDACO DEI TEDESCHI—www.dfs.com. Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge) T: 041 3142000. Map F3

ALBERTA FERRETTI—www.albertaferretti.com San Marco, 295/296. T: 041 5220772. Map F4 BALENCIAGA— www.balenciaga.com San Marco, 1310 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5230806. Map F5 BALLY—www.bally.it San Marco, 4919-4921 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5285839. Map F4

DOLCE&GABBANA— www.dolcegabbana.it San Marco, 2188 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5209991. Map F4 ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA— www.zegna.com Bocca di Piazza San Marco, 1241. T: 041 5221204. Map F4 ETRO—www.etro.com. San Marco, 1340 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5232599. Map F5 FENDI—www.fendi.com. San Marco, 1582 (Calle Frezzaria). T: 041 2778532. Map F4

BOGGI MILANO—www.boggi.com San Marco, 1744 (Bacino Orseolo). T: 041 2960321. Map E4 • Stazione Santa Lucia (Fondamenta S. Lucia, 20). T: 041 5246445. Map C3

FRATELLI ROSSETTI— www.fratellirossetti.com Campo San Salvador, 4800. T: 041 5230571. Map F4 • San Marco, 1477 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5220819. Map F5

BORSALINO—www.borsalino.com San Marco, 4822 (Calle del Lovo). T: 041 2411945. Map F4

FURLA—www.furla.com. San Marco, 4833 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 2770460.Map F4

BOTTEGA VENETA—www.bottegaveneta. com San Marco, 1473 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5228489. Map F5

GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani.com San Marco, 2282 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 8503048. Map F4

BULGARI—www.bulgari.com. San Marco, 1494. T: 041 2410553. Map F4

GUCCI—www.gucci.com San Marco, 2102 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2413968. Map F4 • San Marco, 258 (Mercerie dell'Orologio). T: 041 5229119. Map E5

BURBERRY—it.burberry.com San Marco, 2308 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 240291. Map E5 CARTIER—www.cartier.it San Marco, 1474/1475 (Calle San Moisè). T: 041 8842511. Map F4 CELINE—www.celine.com San Marco, 1312 a/b (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201898. Map F4 CHANEL —www.chanel.com San Marco, 2070 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2405399. Map E5 CHANEL FRAGRANCE & BEAUTY San Marco, 1254/1300. T: 041 2708699. Map F3 CHURCH’S—www.church-footwear.com San Marco, 1316 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2410147. Map F5 CLARKS— www.clarks.eu. Cannaregio, 5586 (Salizada S. Canzian). T: 041 5229946. Map F3 DAMIANI —www.damiani.com San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Map F5 DIOR— www.dior.com San Marco, 1255 (Calle Larga de l’Ascension). T: 041 2411636. Map F5

HERMÈS—italy.hermes.com San Marco, 1292 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2410715. Map F5 HUGO BOSS—www.hugoboss.com Piazza San Marco, 80 (Bacino Orseolo 1218). T: 041 5224378. Map F4

The “FURLA Sleek” crossbody bag is made of grained leather with an Arco print. The model is characterized by a rounded shape with a practical zipper closure. Available in light pink, black, talco (white), cognac and fuoco (red).

MONCLER—www.moncler.com San Marco, 2088 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2960605. Map E5 PRADA—www.prada.com San Marco, 1464/1469 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5283966. Map F5 ROBERTO CAVALLI— www.robertocavalli.com. San Marco, 1314. T: 041 5299020. Map F5 ROCCA 1794— www.rocca1794.com Piazza San Marco, 125. T: 041 5201014. Map F4 SAINT LAURENT—www.ysl.com San Marco, 1302. T: 041 5202211. Map F4 • San marco 2217 (Calle Larga XXII marzo). T: 041 8923010. Map F5 SALVADORI—www.salvadori-venezia.com Diamond Atelier. Piazza S. Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Map F4 • Diamond Atelier Cannaregio. Cannaregio, 2342. T: 041 5243211. Map D2 • Rolex Boutique. Piazza S. Marco, 44. T: 041 2602313. Map F4 • Panerai Boutique. Piazza S. Marco, 47. T: 041 5200899. Map F4

JIMMY CHOO—www.jimmychoo.com San Marco, 1289. T: 041 5224510. Map F4

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— www.ferragamo.com San Marco, 2098 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2778509. Map E5

LORO PIANA—www.loropiana.com San Marco Ascensione, 1301. T: 041 2770695.Map F5

SWAROVSKI—www.swarovski.com San Marco, 5039 (Marzarieta 2 aprile). T: 041 5210618. Map F4

LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com Piazza San Marco, 1345. T: 041 5224500. Map F5

SWATCH—www.swatch.com San Marco, 5022 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5228532. Map F4

MAX MARA—it.maxmara.com San Marco, 5033 (Rialto). T: 041 5226688. Map F5

TIFFANY & CO.—www.tiffany.it San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Map F5

MISSONI— www.missoni.com San Marco, 1318/A (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5205733. Map F5

TOD’S—www.tods.com San Marco, 2251 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5206603. Map E5

MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com San Marco, 1471 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 8106066. Map F5

VERSACE—www.versace.com San Marco, 1462 (Campo San Moisè). T: 041 5200057. Map F5 w w w.wh e re it a lia .c o m / ve ni ce   27


SHOPPING San Polo, 1566 (Calle dei Boteri) T: 041 2758694. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3

Libreria Antiquaria Linea d’Acqua Antique books and priceless prints focusing primarily on preservation and authentic bookbinding methods. PASSION TIP Specializes in 18th century illustrated books, maps and views of Venice and engravings by 18th century Venetian masters. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am12.30pm/3.30pm-7pm; Sat 10.30am-12.30pm. www.lineadacqua.it.San Marco 3717/d (Calle della Mandola). T: 041 5224030. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4

Tessitura Luigi Bevilacqua Artisanal weavers specializing in the production of exquisite, decorative fabrics for furnishings and curtains. PASSION TIP A unique place! Since 1875, the company has practiced the art of weaving on original looms that once belonged to the Venetian School of Silk. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-4pm (Sat-Sun by appointment). www.luigi-bevilacqua.com. Santa Croce 1320. T: 041 721566. Vaporetto line 1 (Riva de Biasio stop). Map D3

CLOTHING MEN & WOMEN Al Duca d'Aosta Originally established in Venice in 1902, Al Duca d’Aosta now boasts stores in six cities

across the Triveneto region: Venice, Padua, Verona, Mestre, Treviso and Udine. The historical four-storey Venice location features over 100 top fashion brands for men and women, carefully selected to offer its clientele quality and elegance. These include casual men’s lines for a sporty-chic look, sartorial designs for savvystyle gentlemen and women’s wear, featuring the iconic accessories of the latest collections, including small leather goods and bijoux, for a glamorous, cosmopolitan aesthetic. The store offers numerous special facilities and services for its customers, including a Personal Shopping service and Tax Free Shopping. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.alducadaosta. com. San Marco, 4945. T: 041 5220733. Vaporetto line 1(Rialto stop). Map F4

Pot-Pourrì Three exclusive boutiques set against the magnificent backdrop of Palazzo Regina Vittoria in the heart of Venice. Pot-Pourrì carries clothing and fashion accessories for him and her, artisanal Made-in-Italy collections and a selection of international brands, skillfully mixed with the flair for which the brand is renowned. Couture dresses, handcrafted accessories and knitwear woven in cashmere, silk and natural fibers. The boutiques also stock a selection of accessories and homeware. Private boat landing stage. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www. potpourri.it. Womenswear: San Marco, 1810

(Ramo dei Fuseri) - T: 041 2410990. Menswear: 1811/m (Ramo dei Fuseri) - T: 041 5221332. Homewares: San Marco, 1820/m (Frezzeria) T: 041 5201996. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 San Marco Vallaresso stop. Map E4

DEPARTMENT STORES Fondaco dei Tedeschi The renovated 16th century building that extends over 7000 sqm is a luxury shopping, food and cultural destination. Surrounding a central courtyard, the store offers the best in leading Italian and international fashion brands, accessories, jewellery and watches, wines and spirits, beauty and fragrances, food and a rich selection of local gifts. Don’t miss the specially curated cultural program on the 4th floor and the breathtaking view from the roof terrace. In partnership with Premier Tax Free, the store will also offer an instant detax at the cash desk when the payment is made by credit card, the first of this kind in Europe. Open daily 10am-8.30pm. www.dfs.com. Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge). T: 041 3142000. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3

FASHION OUTLETS Noventa di Piave Designer Outlet With more than 150 stores, cafés and restaurants, visitors can find their favourite labels with price reductions of up to 70%, all year round, and

Tax Free Refund Guide According to the Italian law, non-EU resident travellers may be granted VAT relief/refund for goods intended for personal or family use purchased in Italy. This relief is surely an advantage for the foreign travellers: in fact, it allows to save from a minimum of 4% up to a maximum of 22% of the selling price of the goods purchased. Here is a short guide according to the Italian legislation to discover the common system of value added tax exclusively for non-EU resident travellers. 1. VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a value added tax on goods and services, and is part of the European Union’s value added tax system. 2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a VAT refund. This refund does not cover the services supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies. 3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: • you are a non-EU resident; • the goods purchased are intended for personal or family use only and are carried in your luggage; • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds 154,94 Euro (VAT included); • the purchase is certified by an invoice. This invoice should include a description of the goods purchased, your personal information as well as the details of your passport or any other equivalent document;

• the goods shall leave the EU territory by the third month following the date of issue of the invoice, as proved by the “customs stamp”; • from 1 September 2018, tax free invoices in Italy must be electronically transmitted by the national seller to OTELLO information system (Online Tax Refund at Exit: Light Lane Optimization) and their validation is digitally carried out. • after the digital “customs stamp” is obtained, OTELLO will send a message to the retailer that all the requirements are met and, as a consequence, the retailer will reimburse the amount due or will settle the tax relief. • the invoice is returned to the Italian retailer within four months after the purchase was made. If the invoice is stamped by other EU countries, it needs to be brought to the shop retailer by the fourth month following that of the purchase. 4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must be shown at the customs exit point when leaving EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items into your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs BEFORE checking in). 5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return the original invoice, regularly endorsed by the customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice must be returned within four months from the date

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when the document was issued. 6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian retailer (however, make sure that the shop you’ve chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax Free” sign in its window). 7. Several Tax-Free companies are able to offer immediate VAT cash refunds when the goods leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating the passenger from having to return the invoice to the retailer). However, this procedure only applies at major international airports or main border crossings. Most major department stores have Tax Free Refund offices. 8. The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply the payment of a small administrative sum which is directly deducted from the amount of VAT refunded to the traveller. 9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund within a reasonable period of time, he or she should re-contact the Italian retailer or one of the aforementioned companies. 10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded directly by customs offices. Source: www.adm.gov.it/portale/ee/citizen/


STROLLING THROUGH BURANO

In addition to Murano and Torcello, this island on the Venetian Lagoon should not be missed. Loved (and widely photographed) by tourists, it is famous for its colourful houses, butter biscuits and above all, its handcrafted lace. With a population of only three thousand inhabitants, the island’s row of houses, whose facades boast all the colours of the rainbow, are truly spectacular and make it one of the most picturesque places on earth! However, the origin of this tradition of painting the houses in bright colours was not only for aesthetic reasons. Legend has it that its fishermen, often confused by frequent banks of fog, devised a chromatic

code that would help them identify their own landing piers more easily. Each colour corresponded to a family, to their house and to their address. BURANO LACE. The island is also the capital of handmade lace, a craft kept alive for centuries by the wives of fishermen waiting for their husbands to return from sea. The work is extremely exacting, with each woman specializing in a single stitch. Since there are seven stitches in total, each piece is passed from woman to woman to finish. Groups of women work diligently for days to produce items, whether large or small, of matchless beauty: trims for dresses, accessories, tablecloths, gloves, umbrellas and masks, all made from this delicate, white lace, crafted with a painstaking attention to detail that has lasted for centuries. While on the island, make sure to visit the Museum of Lace-Making to understand

why something so exquisite should not become extinct (Piazza Galuppi, 187). GASTRONOMIC TRADITION. Butter biscuits known as Buranelli (either ring or S-shaped) are famous on the island and you'll be offered them wherever you go. However, this is not the only specialty that you’ll find. The island has a long-standing gastronomic tradition linked, above all, to fresh fish.

HOW TO REACH BURANO Vaporetto line number 12 runs from the Venice-Fondamente Nove stop to Burano (1 hour). If you’re not in a hurry, the Venetians recommend taking line 14 from San Zaccaria (Pietà stop). Take a look at the venue where the Film Festival is held, and admire the MOSE flood barrier, the huge hydraulic engineering project designed to protect the lagoon.

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SHOPPING further discounts at the annual summer and winter sales. From iconic fashion brands like Prada, Gucci, Armani, Fendi, Jil Sander and Paul Smith to sporting labels, like Nike and X-Bionic, and highstreet favourites, like Guess and Desigual. Easy to reach from Venice via the shuttle service (available twice a day from “Venezia Tronchetto”, Mestre and Marghera), it offers endless entertainment, from the children’s adventure play area to restaurants and cafés and even an annual summer music festival. Facilities: ATM cash machine, cafés, restaurants, kids play area, baby-changing rooms, free parking, store map and guides, multilingual customer service, wheelchair accessible, free Wi-Fi, personal shopper (on request with extra charge), dogs admitted to the outlet village (admission in stores depending on the store policy), Tax Refund for Non-EU citizens and Currency Exchange on-site agency. Open daily 10am-8pm. www.mcarthurglen.com. Via Marco Polo, 1 (Noventa di Piave, 30 minutes from Venice). T: 0421 5741. Off Map

JEWELRY & WATCHES Damiani A reference point in the world of high-end jewelry, Damiani is renowned for its unmistakable style and innovative technical solutions, including its ‘a lunette d’illusione’ setting designed to highlight the brilliance of its stones. www. damiani.com. San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Vaporetto line 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map F4

Nardi Venezia A combination of a love of precious stones and a passion for the art of goldsmithery make Nardi’s jewelry rare accessories to be worn or collected, the epitome of sheer Venetian elegance. Open daily 10am-6.30pm. www.nardi-venezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 69. T: 041 5225733. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F5

Salvadori

ROLEX RETAILER Salvadori was founded in Venice in 1857. A member of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses, Salvadori

purchases its diamonds from Antwerp and Tel Aviv, accompanied by the highest diamond quality certificates. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-6.30pm. www.salvadori-venezia.eu. Diamond Atelier Venice: Piazza San Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Salvadori Boutique Rolex: Piazza San Marco, 44. T: 041 2602313. Salvadori Boutique Panerai: Piazza San Marco, 47. T: 041 5200899. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

Tiffany & Co. Founded in 1837 in New York, Tiffany & Co. is a world-renowned jeweller. Since its introduction in 1886, the Tiffany ® Setting has been known as the ultimate symbol of love, paving the way for Tiffany’s legendary collection of engagement rings. Bold, modern collections, including the elegant, minimalist creations designed by Elsa Peretti and the brightly-coloured lines by Paloma Picasso, have made Tiffany a destination for those seeking spectacular beauty, style and the very best in design. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.tiffany.it. San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

PASSION SHOPPING La Bottega dei Mascareri The workshop of the Boldrin brothers specializes in the crafting of a variety of papier mache Venetian masks, including jesters, elves and characters from the ‘Commedia dell’Arte’ for a trip back into 18th century Venice. The Mascareri have also worked for the theatre, the cinemas and fashion shows, and are considered among several of the most established manufacturers of collector’s items. They were the first mask makers to embellish their masks with decorations by Tiepolo. Open daily 9am-6pm. www.mascarer. com. San Polo, 80. T: 041 5223857 and San Polo, 2720. T: 041 5242887. Map E3

Ca’ Macana One of the oldest and finest mask making workshops in Venice for Carnival, theatre,

Tips to purchase Murano glass In order to protect local craftsmanship and guarantee the authenticity of recently purchased products, in 1994 the Region of Veneto has created a trademark to guarantee that products have been made in Murano according to the traditional techniques used by master glassblowers. Management of the registered Vetro Artistico® Murano trademark is entrusted to the Consorzio Promovetro Murano, which boasts a membership of fifty companies, the only ones allowed to mark their products with prestigious label. Depending on the type of working process involved, the adhesive sticker can be either red or blue. It also shows the manufacturer’s identification code on the top. In 2016, a serial number and a data matrix code were added to the sticker. These serve as additional proof that the product purchased is a genuine Murano-made item. (by G.M.) www.muranoglass.com – www.promovetro.com

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film production and parties. Ca’ Macana crafts authentic handmade masks in the same way that Venetian artisans did 800 years ago and each mask is unique. Thanks to their expertise, they also hold conferences and courses on traditional mask-making techniques. Their masks were featured in important film productions including “Eyes Wide Shut” by Stanley Kubrick and in operas including those staged by the Vienna Opera House. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.camacana.com. Maskmaking and Courses: Dorsoduro, 3215. Showrooms: Dorsoduro, 3172 and Dorsoduro 1169. T: 041 2776142. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). Map D4

Ottica Mantovani Sun and prescription glasses, the most technologically advanced lenses and the most comfortable, fashionable frames. Managed by the Carlon family since the ‘40s, it is now run by the third generation of opticians: a reference point for locals requiring either prescription eyewear or sunglasses. In fact, one of the Mantovani’s most famous customers was Peggy Guggenheim. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-7.30pm; Sun 10am7pm. www.otticamantovani.it. San Marco, 4860 (Mercerie del Capitello). T: 041 5223427. Map F4

Piedàterre Tucked away under an arcade just steps from the Rialto bridge is a tiny boutique with an astonishing selection of handmade slippers, where Alessandra and Renato make and sell colourful ‘furlane’ (slippers), handcrafted with recycled bicycle-tyre treads, ideal for finding your footing on a gondola. Their creations are available in coloured velvet, brocade, printed fabrics or recycled shirting, provided by their customers. Highly original and absolutely unmissable! Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.piedaterre-venice.com. San Polo, 60 (Ruga Rialto, Sotoportego dei Oresi). T: 041 5285513. Map E3

The Merchant of Venice The prestigious stand-alone boutique of this brand which represents the ‘Art of Perfumery in Venice’ is housed in the former, mid-17th century apothecary of San Fantin, located just steps from La Fenice Opera House. Its neo-Gothic décor and ornamentation in walnut, wood and terracotta, reflect the typical style of ancient Venetian ‘palazzi’. The Merchant of Venice is not only a line of products but a wider project which includes a concept store in Murano, the Palazzo Mocenigo Museum in Santa Croce, the Spice shop in Ercole d’Oro (Cannaregio) and the World of Venice space at the Marco Polo Airport. www.themerchantofvenice.com. Open Tues-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. San Marco, 1895 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 2960559. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Venini An artistic space, where you rediscover all the elegance and sophistication of the exquisite creations handcrafted by Master glassmakers from Murano. A prime location for passionate collectors, or those whose want to further their knowledge about an entirely Italian art, Venetian glass creations, meticulously handcrafted by Master craftsmen. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.venini.com. San Marco, 314. T: 041 5224045. Other location: Fondamenta Vetrai, 47 (Murano). T: 041 2737204. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto or San Marco stops). Map F4


PHOTO © PAWEL HORAZY/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

ARTISTIC GLASS IN MURANO

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Museo Storico Navale di Venezia

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LE

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TA A R SE

CROSERA

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VIDA

DEI FORNI

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CALLE

FONDAMENTA

CAMPO DELLA SALUTE

Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

TERRÀ

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LA

FONDAMENTA

Arsenale

100 m

Salute

CATECUMENI

RIO

FONDAMENTA

DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO

CALLE

CALLE DE

FOND

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

Ca' Giustinian

DAM

La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale

CASTELLO

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RIO TERA’ OGNISANTI

DEI

S. Zaccaria (Pieta')

S. Zaccaria (Danieli)

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San Martino

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San

CALLE

CALLE DEL PESTRIN

TREDICI

Rio

RIO TERRÀ

Giardino delle Vergini

Rio

RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA

CALLE

SAN

O

DEGLI

La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese

Arsenale di Venezia

PESTRIN

GRITTI CALLE

RUGA VECCHIA

ASCENSIONE

CALLE

EREMITE

DE CALLE

CROSERA

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SARTOR

CALLE

PISCINA

PIGNATER

CALLE

RI

Palazzo Genovese

San Gregorio

Giudecca Palanca EN

CONVERTITE

ROTONDA

L’ARCO

La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale

Arsenale di Venezia

CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO

CALLE

C. DEL

DEI CORTELLOTTI

DEL

CALLE

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LUCIA SANTA NTA

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SIMON SAN

nzera

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DE C.

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CALLE

CALLE

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SESTIERE

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ima

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AI DIETRO

DE

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CALLE

CALLE

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DE

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MARTIN SAN

SAN

CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO

San Giovanni Battista in Bragora

VONI

Palazzo Pisani Gritti

Santa Maria del Giglio

P U N TA S A B B I O N I

NUOVE

CASTELLO

L’ANZOLO

SALIZADA

CALLE TERAZZERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’

Santa Maria della Pietà

VIN CALLE DEL

CAVALLETTO

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DE

DEL

DEL

Palazzo

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MINELLI

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CALLE

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI

CALLE DELA CREA

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ND

SESTIERE

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

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DE L’OGIO

CALLE

DEGLI

FABBRI

DE

RC

San Zaccaria

SCHIA

NUOVE

SECONDO SAGRADO

CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA

CORTE DEL MORION

CORTE DELLE GATE

CALLE

DEI

C.

CALLE

PESTRIN

FONDAMENTA DEL VIN

DEL

A N M

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

DEGLI

CASE

RAMO

CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA

CORTE SACCA

Spirito Santo

BIAGIO

FO

San Francesco della Vigna

FRANCESCO

SANTA GIUSTINA

CALLE DEI FURLANI

ZATTERE

SAN

LAVRANERI

Sant'Eufemia

SAN

SALIZADA

San Giovanni di Malta

San Giorgio dei Greci

CAMPO SAN PROVOLO SOTO E CORTE NOVA

Rio Del

CALLE

VERONA

le

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA

DE L’OSMARIN FONDAMENTA

C. PIANTON

R I VA

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

ZON

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

CALLE BOSELLO

DELL’OROLOGIO

LA

Cana

CALLE

CALLE SAN LORENZO

CALLE LION

CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA

CALLE

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SPADARIA

MARZARIA

DEI

DE

FONDAMENTA

C.

MANDOLA

AVVOCATI

TERÀ

SA

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA

San Lorenzo

DRASI

CALLE

RIO

CALLE

LO

DEL CAFETIER

CALLE

GIUFFA

CASSELERIA

SEVERO

C.

C. DE LE COLONNE

Palazzo Ducale

MO

DEI PRETI

GATE

RUGA

SAN

MARCO

CANONICA DE LA

O

Museo Correr

CALLE

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

CORTE NOVA

CALLE

DE LE

SAN

CALLE

RC

LATERANO

ZORZI

SALIZADA

CASTELLO

LIO

CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO

LARGA

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

Basilica di San Marco

MA

SAN

ZZA

DE LE TOLE

FONDAMENTA GIOVANNI

CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO

BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO

MEZO

CALLE

CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO

SALIZADA

REDIVO

CALLE GOLDONI

CALLE

San Moisè

CORTE

NUOVA

CALLE DEL FIGHER

CALLE

BALONI

CAPPELLO BIANCA CALLE

PIA

DE

FONDAMENTA

FABBRI

C.DEI CORTE TORRETTA

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

Bacino Orseolo

BARBARIA

SAN

Palazzo Querini Stampalia

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

REMEDIO

San Giovanni Novo

DEL CALLE

DEL FORNO

GALLO CALLE CAMPO SAN GALLO

Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto

CORTE TREVISAN

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani

BANDE

CORTE

Rio San Lorenzo

DE LE

FRUTARIOLI

FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO

SAN

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

CALLE

FONDAMEN TA

LE VIGNOLE

Santa Maria del Pianto

FORNO

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

TASCA

CORTE

STRAZZE TERÀ RIO

CAMPO SAN MOISE’

CORTE BAROZZI

ZULIAN

CORTE GRAGOLINA

DELLE

SAN

XXII MARZO

O

MUSSATO

CALLE

San Giuliano

SAN

PIGNOLI

NOVE

Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo

CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

DEL

DE LE ERBE

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

SALIZADA

DEI

GRIMANI

CALLE

PISCOPIA

CAVALLI

CARBON

CALLE

Salvador

CALLE

CORNER

DEL

LUCATELLO

MARZARIA DEI

GRAGOLINA LE COLONNE DE

C.

C.

PRIMO RAMOCONTARINA CORTE

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SA

LICINI

MEZO

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DE

CAPITELLO

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SESTIERE

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PIOMBO

D. PALLE

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Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

CAMPO

DE LA FAVA

CALICE

CALLE

San

CALLE

CALLE

LARGA

CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

CALLE

CASTELLI

CALLE

CALLE DEL C.MARTINENGO

GIAZZO

SAN

GALIAZZO

C. DEL

SALVADOR

MARZARIA

CORTE C.DEL TRAMONTIN

C.DE LE

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DEL

G. GALLINA

MIRACOLI

CALLE

CALLE

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SAN

Rio

CALLE

DEI

Teatro Malibran

CAMPO SAN LIO

C. DEL

SABION

San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti

Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo

CALLE ERIZZO

BEMBO

CORTE MICHIEL

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

RIO

LARGA

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

SAN CANZIAN

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

X

CORTE DEL

MARZARIA

San Salvador

FONDAM

CORTE NOVA

CALLE GABRIELI

DRIO CALLE LE SCUOLE

CALLE

ORBI

CALLE

MADONA

DEI PUTI

VAPORETTO

CORTE CORTESE

CAMPIELLO STELLA

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

DEI

DE LA

FORNO

RAMO

DEL

CALLE

SEBASTIAN

DEL

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CALLE

CALLE

DOLERA

SAN

DE LA SACA

CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO

CALLE

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VI

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w w w.wh e re it a lia .c o m / ve ni ce   31 VI

ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA

O

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN

CALLE

REMER

CALLE

DE PISCINA

LA CHIESA

CALLE DEL BASTION

RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

O DEL

GALIZZI

STURION

DEI

DEL

CINQUE

C.

DRIO

Teatro la Fenice

Santa Maria del Giglio

Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

NOVE

BERLENDIS

COCCO

DEI

CALLE

CALLE

TOSCANA

DEL

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim

DEL FORNO

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

C O RT E B ATA G I A

WIDMANN

MAGAZEN

CALLE

LOCANDE CALLE

CALLE

CHIESA

CALLE DEL NAVARO

FONDAMENTA

E

CALLE

Spirito Santo CALLE

DEI LAVRANERI

San Gerardo CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO

BOTERI

CALLE

DE

DONZELA

Palazzo Nervi Scattolin

PATERNIN

ASSASSINI

San Fantin

DELLA

SALIZADA

SPIRITO SANTO

BIAGIO

DEI

S.Canciano

FONTEGO

PIO

LUCA SAN

TERÀ

RIO

RAMO

MORETTI

LA

C. DEL

SALIZZADA

MAZZINI

CORTE

SAN SALVADOR

TEATRO

DEL

CALLE

MANDOLA

CALLE

CAPPUZZI

ZATTERE ALLO

CALLE

SAN

CALLE

FRUTARIOL

PONTE

SACCA SAN

FONDAMENT

LARGA

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto

Rialto

TEATRO

CALLE

CALLE

Canal Grande

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

BARBA

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

SALIZADA

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

San Giacomo di Rialto

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

CORTE DEL

CAMPO MANIN

TEATRO

CAOTORTA

San Maurizio

CAMPO PISANI

CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

DE

TODESCHI

Santo Stefano CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

San Vidal

C.SANT'AGNESE

NANI

AI GESUATI

CAL

TERÀ

San Giovanni Grisostomo

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

MARCO

CAFETIER

CALLE

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

DEL PISTOR

CALLE

ZATTERE

Zattere

RAVANO

Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

Palazzo Loredan

Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia CALLE

FONDAMENTA

RIO

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

LARGA

DEL

VENEZIA

CALLE

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

CALLE

CALLE

VENIER

CORTE DEL REMER

CALLE

DEL

FALIER

CAMPO SAN TROVASO

BONLINI

Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione

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The art of solidifying silicon to obtain a hard yet delicate transparent material, suitable for countless purposes, is rooted in the ancient past. According to historians, glass was first made in Mesopotamia in the III millennium B.C. However, several archaeological digs suggest that glassmaking was already practiced in Venice in the 7th century B.C. Furthermore, after the year 1000 A.D., its production had become so important that it was protected by specific laws. There was only one small problem - the presence of glass furnaces in medieval Venice, which was largely built of timber, presented a grave fire hazard. As a result, in 1291, for safety reasons, the Great Council ordered the glass workers

to transfer to the Island of Murano, where they created a district that still exists. It was here that in the 13th century eyeglasses were invented, and here, in 1369 that mirrors began to be produced. It was also here, in 1450, that Angelo Barovier invented crystal. Throughout the Renaissance, glass was a rare commodity. It was only in 1827 that glass began to be produced on an industrial level. At that point, blown glass or glass produced by lampworking became a highly prized material used for aesthetic purposes, and achieved the height of its splendor during the Art Nouveau period. Artists including Lalique, Dammouse or Tiffany sought out the glass blowers of Murano to produce their coveted objects. During the midtwentieth century, real masters of the art including Signoretto, Ballarin, Zanetti and Vidal began to emerge in Murano. Their works are highly coveted objects, true collectors' items that are often displayed at museums. While strolling through the streets of Murano, you’ll be spoilt for choice. If you want to make a purchase, bear several criteria in mind. Crafting authentic Murano glass is no easy task and isn’t cheap. Large objects require hours of work, so don’t expect to take you custom-made lamp

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Venice and glass: a strong, enduring partnership that has lasted for centuries. It’s natural to mention glass when talking about Venice. It’s the same as associating the city with the Lagoon, its colours and the plays of light that have served as inspiration for the most iconic creations by local master glass blowers.

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DINING

For a romantic dinner There’s no better way to end a fabulous day on the lagoon than a romantic candle-lit dinner at Venice’s Bistrot de Venise. The ideal place to savour authentic, seasonal gourmet offerings.

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stablished in 1993, the Bistrot de Venise is a place where people can meet and savour great cuisine and outstanding vintages while enjoying an array of cultural activities dedicated to the city of Venice including exhibitions and events devoted to art, poetry and photography. Boasting a warm, welcoming atmosphere, at Bistrot de Venise diners can sample an array of different menus based on their individual tastes and desire to experiment. A one-of-a-kind opportunity to rediscover authentic, historic Venetian cuisine with recipes re-imagined by an Anonymous Venetian Chef, Bartolomeo Sacchi also known as Platina, Bartolomeo Scappi and others (from the 14th to 18th centuries): a gastronomic

journey back in time, featuring the ancient aromas and flavours of the Serenissima, including sweet and sour dishes, precious spices, rice and stockfish. In addition to the above, the restaurant is also renowned for its traditional, contemporary Venetian cuisine with standouts including fish and seafood from the lagoon, with creative twists on traditional festive dishes. The restaurant also offers more than 60 wines by the glass and 300 highly select Italian and French labels. >> Bistrot de Venise Restaurant - Bar - Wine bar San Marco, 4685 (Calle dei Fabbri) www.bistrotdevenise.com

32  V E N I C E T H E W E LC O M E M A G A Z I N E I S E P T E M B E R 2 021


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/VENICE

TASTING EXPERIENCE Enoteca Al Volto Excellent wine accompanied by traditional ‘cicchetti’ and Venetian fish specialties, Enoteca Al Volto invites diners into its warm, welcoming atmosphere. €. Open daily 11.30am-3pm and 6pm-10pm. San Marco, 4081 (Calle Cavalli). T: 041 5228945. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Zaccari stop). Map E4

L’Aciugheta Its fame and fortune stems from a soft, 7 cm long “paninello” (literally, “tiny sandwich”), stuffed with butter and two “aciughete” (skinless anchovies in oil). Other must-trys include its meatballs, croutons, stuffed chili peppers and freshly baked ‘pizzette’ topped with anchovies. €. Castello, 4357 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5224292. Vaporetto line 1, or 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Osteria alla Rivetta One of Venice best-known, most traditional “cicheteria” (but also a trattoria for lunch and dinner), it is a go-to address for wine tastings. Open daily 11am-10.30pm. €. Castello, 4625. T: 041 5287302. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4

Al Mercà Highly sought-after, typical Venetian cuisine. Boasting an informal atmosphere, it is the perfect spot to relax with a soothing cocktail after a long day of sightseeing. €€€. Lido - Via E. Dandolo, 17. T: 041 2431663. Vaporetto 1, 2, 5.1, 5.2 (Lido stop). Map E3

Alla Madonna Established in 1954 and set in one of Venice’s most picturesque corners, the Rado family has run Alla Madonna since its inception. Its welcoming ambience, characterized by an ancient vineyard, provides the perfect backdrop for the typical regional cuisine served here. €€€. www.ristoranteallamadonna.com. San Polo, 594 (Calle della Madonna). T: 041 5223824. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E4

Antica Carbonera Homemade pasta, fresh fish and unusual decor: its interiors resemble those of the Miramar yacht that belonged to Franz Joseph II and Princess Sissi. A favourite haunt of artists, its charm and Venetian flavour have remained unaltered since it first opened in 1894. Standouts include its raw fish dishes and stewed cod fish with polenta. €€€. www.anticacarbonera.it. San Marco (Calle

Bembo). T: 041 5225479. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4

Antiche Carampane A typical trattoria, in business for over a century, it has a friendly, convivial atmosphere. This is a go-to address for foodies and connoisseurs of fine dining. Its excellent menu, enhanced by the freshest, top quality ingredients is accompanied by an astute selection of wines. Closed on Sundays and Mondays. €€€. www.antichecarampane.com. San Polo, 1911. T: 041 5240165. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3

Antico Martini Located next to the La Fenice theatre, with its elegant dining rooms, welcoming atmosphere and attentive staff, the Antico Martini serves some of the best seafood in town. €€€. www.anticomartini. com. Campo Teatro Fenice 2007. T: 041 5224121. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5

Antico Pignolo The hand of owner Eligio Paties, is apparent in its beautifully laid tables and impeccable service. The traditional Venetian menu is accompanied by a well-stocked cellar boasting more than 900 labels from all over the world. €€€. www.anticopignolo.

TRADITIONAL ITALIAN CUISINE A Beccafico Arte It offers several dining spaces and a small inner courtyard. Its typical Venetian ambience, is low-key, contemporary and elegant, blending to perfection with its Sicilian-style cuisine. €€€. Closed on Tuesdays. www.abeccaficoarte.com. Cannaregio, 2289/C. T: 041 2759220. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E5

Acqua Pazza Set against the magical backdrop of Campo Sant’Angelo, it offers a great ‘al fresco’ dining experience under the stars. This small corner of Amalfi in Venice serves an array of tantalizing dishes. €€€. www.veniceacquapazza.com. San Marco, 3808. T: 041 2770688. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4

Al Colombo A meeting point since 1986 for an international clientele, its menu maintains all the hallmark features of traditional Venetian cuisine. In summer, guests can dine outside under the romantic light of Venice’s street lamps. €€€. www.alcolombo.com. San Marco, 4619. T: 041 5222627. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3

Al Giardinetto da Severino Set against the magnificent backdrop of the 15th century Palazzo Zorzi, the restaurant is listed as an ‘historical establishment of Venice’ and its dining room still features a vaulted ceiling and a frescoed firedplace. Its menu offers the best of traditional Venetian cuisine: baccalà, Venetianstyle liver, ‘granseola’, polenta with shrimp, a mixed fish fry with artichokes and seafood risotto. The restaurant offers a gluten free menu especially designed for coeliacs. Closed on Thursday. €€€. www.algiardinetto.it. Castello, 4928 (Salizada Zorzi). T: 041 5285332. Vaporetto line 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4

Dining in a contemporary setting

The Fiola at Dopolavoro restaurant on the Island of Roses, an exclusive strip of land covering 16 hectares, has a new chef, and a new concept. It is a tranquil, secluded retreat comprising a series of buildings dating back to the 1920s and 1930s. These have been re-imagined in a contemporary key by renowned architect Matteo Thun, and Venetian materials and neutral colours blend harmoniously with the reflections of the lagoon. A unique gourmet destination that’s very different to the usual tourist itineraries. The restaurant’s new chef, Fabio Trabocchi, a native of the Marche region, has returned home after spending twenty years in the USA, bringing a touch of globalization with him. In spite of Fabio’s USA experience, his culinary offerings are a tribute to the Adriatic and to Italy as a whole. The menu features seasonal ingredients sourced from the Rialto Fish Market, but also from the island’s private vegetable garden. Fiola at Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Hotel - Isola delle Rose. T: 041 8521300. www.jwvenice.com

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DINING

Kosher in Venice

PH © TIMOLINA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

If you are already familiar with Jewish dietary laws, or want to try a new ‘kosher’ gastronomic experience, here are some great addresses that will not disappoint!

KOSHER RESTAURANT GHIMEL GARDEN The restaurant offers kosher specialties and typical fish-based dishes. Halav. Lemehadrin. The menu is accompanied by a great selection of strictly kosher wines. Open daily 9.30am-3.30pm/6.30pm-10pm. Serves Shabbat dinners on Friday evenings and at lunch on Saturdays strictly subject to reservation. ghimelgarden.com. Cannaregio, 2873/c (Campo del Ghetto Nuovo). T: 041 8226131. KOSHER HOUSE GIARDINO DEI MELOGRANI Located just a 10-minute walk from the Santa Lucia Railway Station, this is the only kosher residence in Venice. Nestling in the heart of Venice’s Ghetto, it is equipped with all the necessary accoutrements for the strict observance of Kasheruth and Halacha. www.pardesrimonim.net. Cannaregio, 2873. T: 041 8226131. CAFFETTERIA DEL MUSEO EBRAICO DI VENEZIA Indulge in a flavoursome break at the cafè of Venice’s famous Jewish Museum. Situated in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo, the venue is set between two of Venice’s oldest synagogues. Halav. Cannaregio, 2902 (Campo del Ghetto Nuovo). T: 340 1046858.

DINING ItalianSan labels. Vegetarian meals also served. com. Marco, 451(Calle degliare Specchieri). T: 041 €€€. www.lacalcina.com. Hotel La stop). Calcina. 5228123. Vaporetto line 1c/o or 2 (Rialto Map F4 Dorsoduro, 780 (Zattere). T: 041 5206466. Vaporetto Da line Fiore 2 or 5.1 (Zattere stop). Map E6 A renowned Venetian restaurant that offers topLa Conca d’Oro notch cuisine in a sophisticated, elegant setting. Located just steps from St.and Mark’s Square, La Thirty-five years ago, Mara Maurizio Martin Conca d’Oroan was Sicilian transformed oldestablished osteria intoby one of thebrothers city’s Giuseppe andrestaurants. Giovanni Costa, the founders most famous Impeccable service of and the first pizzeria in Northern Italy. Sinceofthat time, superlative Venetian dishes composed carefully this Venetian institution has been outFiore selected seasonal ingredients haveturning made Da of thedestination. best pizza in town. on € (pizzeria) asome must-visit Closed Mondays.- €€€ €€€. (restaurant). www.concadorovenice.com. Castello, www.dafiore.net. San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308. 4338 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3 5229293. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 , 5.1 (San Zaccaria F4 stop). Map Gran Canal Here you can taste the typical specialties of La Portatradition, d’Acquafeaturing the purest expression Venetian Settaste just steps from the The Rialto Bridge, themain restaurant of and harmony. restaurant’s focus is is housed inand a 15th century building and decorated on seafood vegetables. Don’t miss a dinner on with original frescoes dating back to faces 1700. directly Its cuisine its evocative terrace: the restaurant conjures the aroma of authentic Neapolitan onto the up Grand Canal offering diners an excellent cuisine, thanks ingredients sourced exclusively opportunity to to combine the pleasures of the palate fromaCampani. San with stunning €€€. viewwww.laportadacqua.it. over Venice’s lagoon. Open: Polo, 1022/b (Rio Terà San Silvestro). T: 041 2412124. lunch 12.30pm-2.30pm, dinner 7.30pm-11.30pm Vaporetto 1 (San Silvestro stop). MapMonaco&Gran E4 €€€. www.hotelmonaco.it. c/o Hotel Canal. San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. Vaporetto Lineadombra line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Map F5 Perched on the last bridge of the most beautiful promenade in Venice, le Zattere, this is the perfect Harry’s Bar spot for a in romantic dinner you can enjoy all Founded the 1930s, this where legendary bar is the typicalfor flavours of the Venetian lagoon. €€€. renowned its Bellini cocktails (originally www.ristorantelineadombra.com. Dorsoduro, 19. invented here) and for being the favourite haunt, T: 041it2411881. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Zattere stop) or 1 since first opened, of almost every famous name (Salute stop). Map E5 It is still a must-visit stopover to visit Venice. Today, for anyone visiting Venice, a perfect opportunity Locanda Cipriani to step back in time and savour its slightly retro For those who want to be close to Venice, and incredibly fascinating atmosphere. www. yet feel worlds away, the Locanda Cipriani harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco, 1323 (Calle is a superb, romantic hideaway. Featuring a Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto 1 (Rialto stop) simple yet evocative atmosphere, it is popular or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 among knowledgeable gourmets as a fantastic

Il Nuovo Galeon Located on via Garibaldi, near the Giardini della Biennale and just behind the Arsenal, this restaurant is mainly frequented by Venetians. A typical, familyrun restaurant with an outdoor terrace (summer), its attractive interior is characterized by typical nautical décor, including the hull of a ‘bragozzo’, a typical fishing boat built by Crea, the famous Venetian rowing champion. €€€. www.ilnuovogaleon.com. Castello, 1308, T: 041 5204656. Vaporetto 5.1 or 5.2 (Giardini stop). Map H5

La Conca d’Oro Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, La Conca d’Oro was established by Sicilian brothers Giuseppe and Giovanni Costa, the founders of the first pizzeria in Northern Italy. Since that time, this Venetian institution has been turning out some of the best pizza in town. € (pizzeria) - €€€ (restaurant). www.concadorovenice.com. Castello, 4338 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5229293. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 , 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

restaurant. A farmhouse exterior, stop) it T: 041 2411881. Vaporettofrom line the 5.1 (Zattere has1 been renovated withE5great charm, exuding or (Salute stop). Map an understated elegance with beautiful Trattoria Do Forni country antiques and fresh flowers. €€€. www. The owner Eligio PatiesPiazza has managed to make locandacipriani.com. Santa Fosca 29 this restaurant a sought-after destination, distinguished (Torcello island). T: 041 730150. Vaporetto line 12 by its Fondamente wide assortment of Venetian thanks to the from Nove directionfare, Burano, then quality of9the dishes take the line). Off and Mapa genuine sense of typically Venetian hospitality. The dining spaces will remind you Taverna al Remer of the carriages of the legendary “Orient Express” Located near totothe Bridge, this €€€. romantic and pay tribute theRialto history of Venice. www. ‘taverna’ isSan distinguished by its dei open-brick doforni.it. Marco, 468 (Calle Specchieri). T: 041 decor, which lends line it an1 intimate, informal touch. 5232148. Vaporetto or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4 Although the menu features simple, traditional Wildner dishes, it often surprises diners with unusual Opened the Fullin family in 1960, is pairings. by Closed on Wednesdays. €€€.itwww. patronized by locals and tourists Its alremer.it. Cannaregio, 5701. T. 041alike. 5228789. tranquil, atmosphere is further enhanced Vaporettorelaxed line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). by a spectacular view over the Basin of St. Map F3 Mark’s. Its menu is mainly fish-based and serves Trattoria Do Forni classic Venetian specialties including ‘Baccalà The owner Eligio Paties has managed to make Mantecato’ and ‘Sarde in Saor’. Closed on this restaurant sought-after Tuesdays. €€€.ac/o Pensione destination, Wildner. Castello, distinguished by its wide assortment of Venetian 4161. T: 041 5227463. Vaporetto line 4.1 fare, to the quality the dishes and a or 5.1thanks (San Zaccaria stop).ofMap G4 genuine sense of typically Venetian hospitality. The dining spaces will remind you of the carriages of the legendary “Orient Express” and pay tribute to the history of Venice. €€€. www.doforni.it. San Dal Mas Marco, 468 (Calle dei Specchieri). T: 041 5232148. Located justline a few minutes the railway this Vaporetto 1 or 2 (Sanfrom Zaccaria). Map station, F4 pastry shop offers a triumph of traditional sweet treats for breakfast (in addition to croissants, try their ‘zaleti’, Wildner ‘pan dei Dogi’ and ‘sbreghettine’). Those a sweet Opened by the Fullin family in 1960, it iswith patronized tooth will be delighted know Dal Mas is also by locals and tourists to alike. Itsthat tranquil, relaxed aatmosphere chocolate shop whereenhanced you can find servings is further bysingle a spectacular of mousse, miniBasin Sacher ‘cannoli’ brightlyview over the of torte, St. Mark’s. Its and menu is mainly coloured macarons. www.cioccolateriadalmas.com. fish-based and serves classic Venetian specialties Cannaregio, 149/a (Rio Terà Lista de Spagna), including ‘Baccalà Mantecato’ and ‘Sarde ainfew Saor’. metres the St. Lucia Station. T: 041 715101. Map D3 Closedfrom on Tuesdays. €€€. c/o Pensione Wildner. Castello, 4161. T: 041 5227463. Vaporetto line 4.1 Pasticceria Italo Didovich or 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4 Should you find yourself in the vicinity of Campo Santa Marina (just a little off the beaten tourist track), make a beeline for this excellent pastry shop, which has stood here for the past 40 years. In addition to ‘frolle’ and rice and almond pastries, it also offers several tantalizing delicacies Castello. Campo Santa Marina. T: 041 5230017. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F3

PASTRY SHOPS

Pasticceria Rosa Salva This institution has three separate shops in Venice. The first is in San Marco-Calle Fiubera: its historic headquarters, permeated by the aromas of its nearby pastry kitchen. The next is in San Marco-Mercerie: aperitivi and quick snacks that can be enjoyed in between browsing the shops lining le Mercerie, the shopping street that connects the Rialto to St. Mark’s Square. The last is in Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo. www.rosasalva.it. San Marco (Calle Fiubera), T: 041 5210544. San Marco (Mercerie), T: 041 5227934. Castello (Campo San Giovanni e Paolo), T: 041 5227949. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Lineadombra Perched on the last bridge of the most beautiful promenade in Venice, le Zattere, this is the perfect spot for a romantic dinner where you can enjoy all the typical flavours of the Venetian lagoon. €€€. www.ristorantelineadombra.com. Dorsoduro, 19.

ACQUERELLO RESTAURANT

The haute cuisine of this signature restaurant plays on the creative combinations of Top-notch, prevalently fish-based, traditional Italian specialties and traditionalDO Venetian Venetian cuisine at TRATTORIA FORNI. dishes. www.kempinski.com/it/venice

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DINING

Top hotel restaurants Where® highlights some culinary destinations to whet your appetite at several top hotels in Venice.

Terrazza Danieli

Do Leoni

Acquerello c/o S. Clemente Palace Kempinski. www.kempinski.com The restaurant masterfully creates epicurean aquarelles beyond expectations that depict delicacies from the Adriatic Sea, and culinary inspirations of modern Venetian and East Mediterranean origin. Off Map Arva c/o Hotel Aman Venice. www.aman.com Palazzo Papadopoli. San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo). T: 041 2707333. A delightfully unique menu, thanks to several specialties created by Executive Chef Dario Ossola. Map E4 Antinoo’s c/o Centurion Palace Venezia. www.sinahotels.com Dorsoduro, 173. T: 041 34281. In addition to the à la carte menu you can also choose from a selection of typical gourmet Venetian dishes.

Map E5 Aromi c/o Hilton Molino Stucky. www.molinostuckyhilton.it Giudecca, 810. T: 041 2723311. Here you can taste authentic Mediterranean cuisine. Summer terrace with a fabulous view over Venice and the Giudecca Canal. Map C6 Canova c/o Baglioni Hotel Luna. www.baglionihotels.com San Marco, 1243. T: 041 5289840. Menus and tastings featuring the best of traditional Venetian cuisine. All dishes are made using only the freshest, high-quality ingredients. Map F5 Club del Doge c/o The Gritti Palace. www.clubdeldoge.com Campo Santa Maria del Giglio. T: 041 794611. A welcoming ambience and authentic upscale cuisine make each culinary experience a truly special one. Map E5

De Pisis c/o Hotel Bauer Palazzo. www.bauervenezia.com San Marco, 1413/d. T: 041 5207022. For a romantic canal side dinner, set against the backdrop of the historic Basilica della Salute. Map F5 Do Leoni c/o Hotel Londra Palace. www.londrapalace.com Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni). T: 041 5200533. It combines the traditions of Venetian fare with more creative dishes. Two atmospheric dining spaces: an indoor dining room and its summer Veranda. Map G4 Fiola at Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa. www.jwvenice.com Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco. T: 041 8521300 The renowned name of Fabio Trabocchi is behind this restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private island. Off Map Glam c/o Palazzo Venart. www.palazzovenart.com Santa Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron). T: 041 5233784. Chefs Enrico Bartolini and Donato Ascani offers an interpretation of contemporary Italian cuisine and research-based use of locally-sourced Venetian ingredients. Map E3 Grand Canal c/o Hotel Monaco & Grand Canal San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. www.hotelmonaco.it A meeting place for gurus of the world of economy and finance, journalists and artists. Here you can enjoy the typical dishes of Venetian tradition, from the delicacies of the sea to the vegetables.

L’Alcova c/o Ca’ Sagredo Hotel. www.casagredohotel.com Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99. T: 041 2413111. Boasting a magnificent panoramic terrace over the Grand Canal and in front of the historic Rialto Market, it is ‘the’ temple of traditional Venetian cuisine for real connoisseurs. Map E3 La Caravella c/o Hotel Saturnia. www.restaurantlacaravella.com Calle Larga XXII Marzo, 2399. T: 041 5208901. Opened in 1963, it completes the services offered by the Hotel Saturnia with a touch of culinary excellence thanks to its fabulous Venetian cuisine updated with a contemporary, gourmet twist. Map E5 Le Maschere c/o Starhotels Splendid Venice. www.starhotels.com San Marco Mercerie, 760. T: 041 5200755. Here you can sample authentic Venetian cuisine, featuring both meat and fish-based dishes. A truly gourmet experience, guaranteed by its partnership with Eataly. Map F4 Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. www.belmond.com Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801. Take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant takes its name, and try the specialties inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6

Map F5

Pisanino c/o Palazzetto Pisani. www.palazzettopisani.com San Marco, 2814. T: 041 5232550. Here you can savor refined Italian and gourmet food in a typically Venetian ambient. Particular events are often organized in this space. Map E5

Il Giardino Segreto c/o Grand Hotel dei Dogi. www.dahotels.com Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto, 3500 (Calle Larga Piave). T: 041 2208110. In an elegant and intimate atmosphere, you can enjoy international specialties and delicacies of the Italian cuisine, created by highly skilled chefs. Map E1

Terrazza Danieli c/o Hotel Danieli. www.terrazzadanieli.com Riva degli Schiavoni, 4196. T: 041 5226480. A trip to discover traditional flavours. Exclusive gourmet experience, with a menu featuring locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. Don’t miss the breathtaking view over the lagoon. Map F4

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DINING

Michelin-starred restaurants

Oro

Are you in search of a real Venetian tasting experience? Where® brings you a round-up of Michelin-starred restaurants for true connoisseurs of taste! Glam c/o Palazzo Venart. Santa Croce, 1961. T: 041 5235676. www.palazzovenart.com/en/restaurant-bar Set within a secluded corner of Venice and located in a prime position overlooking the Grand Canal, Glam is situated inside Palazzo Venart. After being awarded its first Michelin star in 2017, it received its second star in November 2019. The brainchild behind its menu is Enrico Bartolini, Italy’s youngest chef. Helmed by resident chef Donato Ascani, the restaurant serves traditional Venetian dishes upgraded with a futuristic twist and enriched with contemporary pairings that intensify the fabulous flavours of the Lagoon. Glam can host up to 40 guests indoors or al fresco. Map E3 Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801. www.belmond.com A jewel in the crown of Belmond Hotel Cipriani, experience Venice’s top taste sensation at this

enchanting Michelin-starred restaurant. Oro reflects the romantic spirit of Venice: take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant draws its name, and try the specialities inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6 Osteria da Fiore San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308 www.dafiore.net An Osteria only by name because this is actually an elegant, starred restaurant. Its cuisine ranges from the most authentic traditional flavours interpreted in a modern-day key (meaning that offerings tend to be lighter) to more unusual dishes invented by the chef Mara Martin, intended to be as close to nature as possible thanks to a great selection of highly sought-after seasonal ingredients. Ask for a wine recommendation from its excellent wine list which also features several international labels. Map E3

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Quadri Piazza San Marco, 121. T: 041 5222105 www.alajmo.it A real institution of Venetian taste, starting from its decor. The restaurant – with the Quadrino and Grancaffè Quadri on the ground floor – has reopened after a major restoration by Philippe Stark: triumph of stucco, Murano glass and precious fabrics housed in one of the most photographed ‘palazzi’ in the city. Its menu by chef Massimiliano Alajmo features intriguing, creative dishes that are beautifully presented... without forgetting its spectacular view over piazza San Marco. Map F4 Il Ridotto Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo, 4509. T: 041 5208280 www.ilridotto.com Located just steps from San Marco, Il Ridotto, 'reduced' in Italian, refers to the size of this tiny, gracious restaurant. The innovative menu employing traditional elements is revised daily, with the offerings tending toward lighter, but


© #PHOTODAVIDEBIANCHET

Il Ridotto

Quadri

Glam

wonderfully tasty versions of classic dishes. A particular characteristic? It only has 9 tables. Map F4 Venissa Fondamenta S. Caterina, 3 (Mazzorbo) T: 041 5272281. www.venissa.it On the one hand its vegetable gardens and vineyards, and, on the other, its cuisine featuring an intoxicating meld of locally sourced ingredients. In a corner of paradise just steps away from the island of Burano, its bucolic surroundings serve as the ideal backdrop to its authentic, typically Venetian cuisine lovingly prepared by its four chefs who only use fresh, seasonal ingredients. On the island of Mazzorbo, the Dorona di Venezia wine variety has found a magical equilibrium on land that is constantly threatened by salt and water. Venissa is a wine with true personality that is intrinsically linked to its terroir: there is only one hectare of Dorona di Venezia in the world, and only 3500 bottles are produced each year. Off Map

Venissa

Rosso Venissa

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Osteria da Fiore


SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Chruch of Madonna dell'Orto

Tintoretto’s district The entire life of famous Renaissance painter, Tintoretto, revolved around a circumscribed area of Cannaregio. It was here that he was born, lived, worked and was buried. By Chiara Zaccarelli

B

efore circling it on a map or asking someone how to get there, remember that ‘Tintoretto’s district’ doesn’t officially exist in Venice. During his prolific career, Jacopo Robusti, better known as ‘Tintoretto’, received numerous commissions from churches, brotherhoods, the Republic and noble families throughout Venice. Many of his works, which today would be known as ‘site-specific’, are still housed in Venice, in the places for which they were conceived. For this reason, the whole city can be considered a widespread Tintoretto museum. However, a fairly circumscribed area, including a handful of streets in the heart of the Cannaregio district, which represent the beginnings and ending of the famous artist’s career, exists.

The artist was born here in 1518 at number 3399 of the Fondamenta dei Mori, where he lived until his death in 1594, when he was buried in the church of Madonna dell’Orto, just a few blocks away. Although the 15th century Gothic building where Tintoretto lived bears a plaque in his memory, it’s off-limits to the public. However, you can visit his workshop next door, which serves as an atelier for painting, graphics and printing, and also organizes exhibitions, conferences, courses and seminars (www. tintorettovenezia.it). From here, just a little further on, a small bridge leads to the church of Madonna dell’Orto, considered one of Venice’s hidden gems, where Jacopo and his family are buried. Tintoretto worked on numerous paintings for the church including the

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Last Judgment, the Worship of the Golden Calf and the Presentation of the Virgin Mary at the Temple. www.madonnadellorto.org

Tintoretto workshop


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/VENICE

ATTRACTIONS & MONUMENTS Basilica del Redentore

The “Scuole Grandi”

Based on a project by the famous architect Andrea Palladio, the Basilica was built in 1577 on the island of Giudecca. It contains works by Tintoretto, Veronese and other important Venetian artists. It was built to celebrate the deliverance from the Black Death, which killed one third of the population. To commemorate the end of the plague, a solemn festival is still held at the church on the third Sunday of July. www.chorusvenezia.org. Campo Redentore (Giudecca). T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 41 and 2 (Redentore stop). Map E6

Basilica di San Marco This is the most important Catholic church in the city, and one of the most important monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. The famous winged lion, a symbol of the city and of the ancient ‘Venetian Republic’ is depicted on its pediment. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. You might have to queue for a time to get inside, but your wait will be well worthwhile. Although admission is free, you will have to pay to see several specific sights. In order not to miss your visit, be sure to inform yourself about the opening hours, as they are often subject to change. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am4pm; Sun (and Public Holidays) 2pm-4pm. www. basilicasanmarco.it. San Marco, 328. T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

Campanile di San Marco (Bell Tower) This 98.6 metre bell tower is affectionately known to the Venetians as ‘el paron de casa’ (the master of the house) because it dominates the city, observing everything that lies below it. Resting lightly on the exquisite Loggetta del Sansovino, it has a particularly recognizable shape and a rich history. The original medieval bell tower was modified several times, and rebuilt entirely when it unexpectedly collapsed in 1902. It is worth going up to the tower, to enjoy a breathtaking view over the city. Although admission is not free, it is often included in joint tickets. Opening times are subject to change. T: 041 5225205. Vaporetto lines 1,2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

Canal Grande (Grand Canal) Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the main waterway of Venice and much more. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels, and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. For centuries, the Canal has witnessed lavish parties and workshop events, religious processions, capital executions, historical regattas and epidemics. Those visiting Venice should dedicate a few hours to a cruise on the Canal, not only for the pleasure of this experience, but because it offers several of the best panoramic views of Venetian palaces. It is is almost impossible to list all of them, but for more information you can visit the www. canalgrandevenezia.it website. For excursions and boat cruises visit www.canalgrande.it, or ask your concierge.

Scuola di San Rocco

Among Venice’s countless art treasures, buildings known as ‘Scuole’ or ‘Scuole Grandi’ might be mentioned as unmissable attractions. It goes without saying that these are not schools in the accepted sense of the word, but one of the innumerable distinctive features of this unique city. During the ancient Republic of Venice, from the 13th century onwards, the word ‘Scuola’ was, in fact, used to describe a brotherhood, or rather an association of lay members who met to provide assistance to poor people, widows, orphans, old and sick people. The ‘Scuole’ were divided into Devotional Schools (or Scuole Grandi) which gathered for religious purposes in the name of a patron saint, Schools of Arts and Crafts and Schools of Foreign Communities (Scuole Piccole or Scuolette). Until the fall of the Republic, they represented a real kind of welfare system, initially destined for members but later extended to the entire population. The ‘Scuole Grandi’ had countless means at their disposal, a part of which they invested to embellish their own headquarters with paintings by well-known artists including Tintoretto, Jacopo Palma il Giovane or Giambattista Tiepolo. As time passed, the most important Schools built palaces for their residents designed by famous architects, and adorned them with

paintings by the best artists of the era. After the fall of the Republic of Venice in 1797, the Schools were suppressed by a Napoleonic edict (1807) and within the space of a short time their assets ended up at antique markets and collections throughout the world. Several of the best preserved Schools were reconstituted and transformed into museums that can now be visited by the public. These include the Great Schools of San Giovanni Evangelista (www.scuolasangiovanni.it), the Scuola di San Rocco (www.scuolagrandesanrocco.it) and the Scuola dei Carmini (www.scuolagrandecarmini.it). Others, including the Scuole Grandi di San Teodoro (www.scuolagrandesanteodoro.it), the Scuola di San Marco (the seat of the city’s hospital), www.scuolagrandesanmarco.it), and the Scuola di Santa Maria Giustizia or San Fantin, currently home to Venice’s Faculty of Science, Literature and Arts (www.ateneoveneto.org), were converted into public exhibition spaces and institutions. The Scuola Dalmata di San Giorgio degli Schiavoni and the Scuola di San Nicolò dei Greci (currently Venice’s Museum of Icons), are ‘small’ schools whose artistic treasures are well worth a visit. Lastly, an interesting fact: the facade of the Scuola Grande di Santa Maria della Carità, suppressed in 1806, is now the entrance to the magnificent Accademia Galleries.

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SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Chiesa and Scuola Grande di San Rocco A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures, including an impressive number of works by Tintoretto as well those by Tiepolo and Giorgione. Opening hours subject to change www.scuolagrandesanrocco.org. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Chiesa della Madonna dell’Orto This is one of the largest churches in Venice, and, according to popular belief, is named after a statue of the Virgin Mary which supposedly had miraculous powers. It contains a significant number of artworks, mostly by Tintoretto and Bellini, but also by Titian and Palma the Younger. The complex also houses the smaller church of San Marziale, dating back to before the year 1000. This church can only be visited by booking. Open Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 12pm-5pm. www.madonnadellorto.

org. Cannaregio, 3512. T: 041 719933. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1, 5.2, A (Orto stop). Map E2

community of Jewish families. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1 (Ponte Guglie stop). Map D2

Ghetto di Venezia

Palazzo Ca’ Vendramin Calergi (Casinò di Venezia)

Although documentation chronicles the presence of a Jewish community in Venice from before the year 1000, it was only during the 6th century, due to political unrest in Europe and a significant increase in non-Christian immigrants that, for the first time, the Venetian Senate, issued a decree stating that the Jewish population should move to a specific part of the city, where they could be better ‘controlled’. Thus Jews were forced to move to this, then, remote northwestern corner of Venice, to an abandoned site of a 14thcentury foundry (‘ghetto’ is old Venetian dialect for "foundry," a word that would soon be used throughout Europe and the world to depict an area where isolated minority groups lived. The Venetian Ghetto nevertheless became a thriving, vibrant district. In 1797, when Napoleon rolled into town, the ghetto was disbanded as an institution, and Jews were free to move elsewhere. Today it is still the center of Venice's ever-diminishing

Overlooking the Grand Canal, this building houses the oldest casino in the world. An age-old destination, for aristocratic travelers from both East and West, Venice was the first city in the world to open a gaming house way back in 1683. Today its old-world ambience continues to play host to several of the world’s most classical games. The casino is open to everyone aged 18 and over and proper attire is required. www.casinovenezia.it. Cannaregio, 2040 (Calle Colombina). Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marcuola stop). Map E3

Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square) Known throughout the world, this square is the heart of Venice and its most symbolic landmark. It consists of a central, trapezoid-shaped unit integrated with other areas. Measuring 170 metres in length, it faces directly onto the water and is surrounded by several magnificent stately buildings. Its incalculable scenic beauty makes it one of the most widely-photographed places in the world. The best thing to do here is to look around and exult, but don’t forget that the square has a number of specific landmark sites, whose interiors can also be visited: the Basilica of San Marco (see listing), the Bell Tower (see listing), Palazzo Ducale (see Museums listings), the Clock Tower (see listing) and some 18th century cafés, the Florian and the Quadri, to mention the best-known... Vaporetto lines, 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs) The Bridge of Sighs is a Baroque bridge that, by crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from which its name derives are not those of lovers, but those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. Open daily 8.30am7pm. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 31024 (piazza San Marco). T:041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1,2, (San Marco stop). Map F4

Ponte di Rialto (Rialto Bridge)

Gambling and glamour The Casinò di Venezia, opened in 1638, is the world's oldest gaming house and its charm has remained unaltered over the years. A perfect example of a stately Renaissance home, both the dwelling place of the doges and Richard Wagner’s last residence, Ca’ Vendramin Calergi is one of the most elegant buildings overlooking Venice’s major waterway, the Grand Canal. Today the rooms for elegant French games and American gaming tables are given over to top professionals, whilst over 600 slot machines provide a more informal way to have fun. Situated on the first floor, the Wagner Restaurant offers the exclusive pleasure of refined dining with timeless delicacies and traditional Venetian fish specialities: three superb settings (the Sala Palma, Sala Gialla and Sala Rossa) are decorated with paintings and frescoes. And don’t miss the Marco Polo restaurant, ideal for a quick meal, offering creative trendy cuisine that includes Mediterranean and Venetian meat and fish dishes. www.casinovenezia.it/en. Ca’ Vendramin Calergi - Cannaregio, 2040. T. 041 5297111. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marcuola stop).

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This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Witness to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it (shutterbugs permitting), but even more spectacular when seen from the water, perhaps aboard a gondola. Originally built during medieval times as a pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto Market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. Unfortunately, it is not accessible to everyone; between upward and downward slopes, it includes as many as 120 steps. San Polo, 30125 (access from Ruga dei Oresi or from Salizada Pio X). Vaporetto linea 1,2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

San Giorgio Maggiore Boasting a monastery and an adjoining museum (see Museum listings), the church of San Giorgio Maggiore sits on the little island of San Giorgio Maggiore across from St. Mark's square. One of the masterpieces of Andrea Palladio, the church, and the entire complex, which holds a number of marvelous surprises including a maze, is worth visiting. This small island, that is a part of the


MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

panorama that can be enjoyed from St. Mark's square, is separated from the Giudecca by the lagoon island of La Grazia. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 5227827. Vaporetto line 2 (San Giorgio stop). Map G5

Santa Maria della Salute Generally referred to as “La Salute,” this crown jewel of 17th-century baroque architecture proudly stands at a commercially and aesthetically important point, almost directly opposite the Piazza San Marco, where the Grand Canal empties into the lagoon. Designed by Longhena, whose work was influenced by Palladio, it was constructed to honor the Virgin Mary for delivering Venice from the plague of 1630. On 21 November each year, a popular religious YOUR ING SINCE 1936® YOUR TRAVEL TRAVEL ING COMPANION COMPANION celebration, marking the official end of1936® the Black Death, is held here. ® The church is also famous for its organ concerts. Open daily 9am12noon/3pm-5.30pm. www.basilicasalutevenezia. M A G A Z I N E it. Fondamenta Salute, 30123. T: 041 2743911. www.where-venice.com www.where-venice.com Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map E5

where Venice WHERE WHEREITALIA ITALIASRL SRL

Via 20154 ViaEzio EzioBiondi, Biondi, 1. 1. 20154 Milano. Milano. Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari T:T:02 - Fax 02349951 349951 Fax 02 02 33107015 33107015 Known by the- Venetians simply as ‘i Frari’, this info@where-venice.com info@where-venice.com landmark features 17 monumental altars and www.where-venice.com www.where-venice.com

Santa Margherita). T: 041 5289420. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop).

Teatro La Fenice Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only strongly associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it is also a stunning feat of architecture. teatrolafenice.it. Ticket office T: 041 2424. San Marco, 1965 (Campo San Fantin). Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E4

The islands

WELCOME VENICE WELCOME TO VENICE

Although the whole of Venice lies on an

| SIGHTSEEING

archipelago, an ‘excursion to the islands’ generally means a half-day cruise on a boat to visit the islands of Murano, Torcello and Burano, three charming, small islands, rich in history and tradition. Murano is famous throughout the world for its hand-blown glass (artisanal workshops still display glassmakers at work). Torcello, birthplace of the lagoon, once a thriving town with 8,000 inhabitants, is today a semi-rural island with only 17 permanent residents and two medieval churches that speak poignantly of past glories, and Burano, one of the most photographed sights in the world, thanks to colourful houses reflected in its canals. Burano is also famous for its artisanal lace work and a particular kind of biscuit, which also resembles lace. Find out more and buy tickets for your trip to these magical destinations. Visitors love these islands, and there may be a risk of not finding a seat on the boat. See Map page 46

FOR REAL VENETIAN LOVERS A trip to Venice is a unique experience: to make sure it’s unforgettable, here are some insider tips to make the most of your visit.

is the largest church in the city. This medieval

PUBLISHER PUBLISHERAND ANDEDITOR-IN-CHIEF EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

church Gothic-Venetian style, houses, in Andrea Jarach Andreain Jarach (andrea.jarach@where-venice.com) (andrea.jarach@where-venice.com) addition to two paintings by Titian, the tombs and funerary monuments of numerous famous

EDITORIAL EDITORIAL people, including Titian, Monteverdi and Canova. (PROEDICOMUNICAZIONE COMUNICAZIONE SRL) (PROEDI

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chorusvenezia.org. Campo dei Frari. T: 041 2750462. MANAGINGVaporetto DIRECTOR line 1, 2, N (San Tomà stop). MANAGING DIRECTOR Daniele Misrachi Daniele Misrachi Map D4 EDITORIALCOORDINATION COORDINATION EDITORIAL

Santi Giovanni e Paolo Alessandra Finzi(redazione@where-venice.com) (redazione@where-venice.com) Alessandra Finzi

One of the city’s most important examples e ElenaBinda, Binda,Romena Romena Brugnerotto, Brugnerotto (tourist advisor, Elena Paolo is considered the Pantheon ofDaviddi, Venice www.rominvenice.com), Simona P.K. Simona P.K. Daviddi, Elena Peverata, Stefania Vida because all the Stefania VenetianVida doges, starting from Elena Peverata, the 13th century, are buried here, Giudici, together with MAGAZINE ART DIRECTION Elisabetta MAGAZINE ART DIRECTION Elisabetta Giudici, Joy Lacanlale numerous other notable personages. www. Joy Lacanlale basilicasantigiovanniepaolo.it. Campo Santi WEB EDITORIAL STAFF Chiara Fonzi (coordination), WEB EDITORIAL STAFF Chiara Fonzi (coordination), Giovanni e Paolo (Please note: this site might be Fabio Lancini (art direction), Giulia Minero (editor) Fabio Lancini (art direction), Giulia Minero (editor) redazione@where-venice.com marked in Venetian dialect as ‘san ZaniPolo’ on redazione@where-venice.com the city’s maps). T: 041 5235913. Vaporetto line 5.1 ICONOGRAPHY Archivio Where® Italia, Dreamstime, ICONOGRAPHY Archivio Where® Italia, Shutterstock (Fondamente Nove stop, Ospedale Civile stop). Shutterstock Map F3 CARTOGRAPHY CITY MAP: © Where Italia srl. - 2017 CARTOGRAPHY CITY MAP: File © Where Italia srl. - 2017 Original Map by Urban - www.urbanfile.org Original Map by Urban File www.urbanfile.org Fast Trains Network Map by- Dmitry Goloub Scala Contarini del Bovolo Fast Trains Network Map by Dmitry Goloub Palazzo Contarini is an exquisite, late Gothic MARKETING & ADVERTISING Sieva Carolo, MARKETING & ADVERTISING Sieva Carolo, building. However, makes it such Renna, a popular Isa Faleschini, Martawhat Mailhac, Rachele Isa Faleschini, Marta Rachele Renna, Paola Zannoni attraction today, wasMailhac, the addition, by its architects, Paola Zannoni (coordination "Welcome to Italy") in 1499, of an&amazing, external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) PRODUCTION CIRCULATION, SALES SUPPORT PRODUCTION & Paola CIRCULATION, SALES SUPPORT like lace. stairwell enclosed inGrilli a cylinder perforated COORDINATOR Paola Grilli of the stairwell, combined COORDINATOR The architectural beauty ADMINISTRATION Katia Greto with the view that can Greto be enjoyed on reaching the ADMINISTRATION Katia LOCAL Traine (T: 340 3026288) top, is MARKETING well worth aStefano visit. Open Tues-Sun: 10amLOCAL MARKETING Stefano Traine (T: 340 3026288) 1.30pm/2pm-6pm. www.scalacontarinidelbovolo. HOTEL RELATION MANAGER Maria Granata com. c/o Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo. San Marco, (maria.granata@where-venice.com) HOTEL RELATION MANAGER Maria Granata 4299 (Campo Manin, Rio San Luca). T: 041 3096605. (maria.granata@where-venice.com) CUSTOMER Garbini, Silvia Maggi Vaporetto SERVICES line 1 or Cristina 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). CUSTOMER SERVICES Cristina Garbini, Valentina Map REG. TRIB.E4 MILANO No. 174, 28 JUNE 2016 Senatore MAGAZINE EDITORIAL STAFF Carey Carey Bernitz, MAGAZINE EDITORIAL STAFF Bernitz, of medieval architecture, Santi Giovanni

WHERE® ITALIA SRL, ISCRITTO AL ROC No. 20182 DEL 14 SETTEMBRE 2010

Scuola Grande dei Carmini

DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH REG. TRIB. MILANO No. 174, 28 JUNE 2016 PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPAROC No. 20182 DEL 14 SETTEMBRE 2010 WHERE® ITALIA SRL, ISCRITTO AL LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE (BG) DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH

Housed in a 16th century palazzo, it is the seat of anBYancient and all its original Although the publisherbrotherhood has made PRINTED GRAPHICSCALVE SPA every effort to include copyright credits, in the eventPONTE of thereFORMELLO, being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would like to LOCALITÀ 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE furnishing and a holders number of priceless oilBG apologize to the copyright in question whose names will bepaintings published in the next Although theissue. publisher has made every effort toThe include copyrightbuilds credits, in have been preserved intact. drama the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would like to when toentering Sala del Capitolo, whose apologize the copyrightthe holders in question whose names will be published inIN theITALY next issue. Where® isnine also published incanvases Milan by ceiling Where®features Italia, in Romeexceptional by Tourist Media srl painted by theby brotherhood’s most famous and in Naples IES Comunicazione srl IN ITALY Where® is also published in Milan by member, Giambattista Tiepolo. Where® Italia, in Rome by Tourist Open Mediadaily srl EXCLUSIVE GIFT FROM TOP HOTELS srl and in Naples by IES Comunicazione 11am-5pm. www.scuolagrandecarmini.it. WHERE® VENICE È DISTRIBUITO SOLO NELLE CAMERE DEI MIGLIORI HOTEL DI Dorsoduro, 2616 (Campo dei Carmini, Campo VENEZIA E DEL VENETO. WHERE® VENICE IS GIFT AVAILABLE ONLY IN TOP THE ROOMS OF THE MOST EXCLUSIVE EXCLUSIVE FROM HOTELS HOTELS IN VENICE AND IN VENETO. WHERE® VENICE È DISTRIBUITO SOLO NELLE CAMERE DEI MIGLIORI HOTEL DI VENEZIA E DEL VENETO. WHERE® VENICEVISITOR IS AVAILABLEPUBLICATIONS ONLY IN THE ROOMS OF THE MOST EXCLUSIVE MORRIS HOTELS IN VENICE AND IN VENETO.

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STREET RULES Many ‘calli’ (streets) in Venice are narrow. Keep to the right and avoid loitering. Make sure to take quick ‘clicks’ on Venice’s bridges especially when they’re crowded.

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ACQUA ALTA In the event of ‘acqua alta’ (flooding), use the raised walkways provided. Keep to the right and don’t hang around. Don’t step into the water, because it’s dirty.

OBSTRUCTING PUBLIC TRANSPORT

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When travelling on public transport, please respect the other passengers: avoid blocking the entrance or exit, store your bags where the boat staff tells you and remove your backpacks.

BIKES AND OTHERS MEANS OF TRANSPORTATION

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EATING Apart from restaurants, picknicking is forbidden in the area around St. Mark’s Basilica. Website www.where-venice.com features a list of the best restaurants and ‘bacari’ where you can sample delectable Mediterranean cuisine. Please Note: it’s not done to eat ‘gelato’ before lunch and cappuccino is a ‘no no’ in the afternoon.

DRESS It is forbidden to walk around Venice in a bathing costume or bare-chested. Swimming in Venice’s canals is prohibited. The Lido is the go-to place for bathing. Venice is an elegant ‘grand dame’ and a certain dress code is ‘de rigueur’.

In Venice, adults are prohibited from riding bikes or using or carrying kick scooters. Use the parking lots located at the entrance to the city.

VENETIAN SOUVENIR In the midst of its myriad offerings, always make sure to purchase authentic Venetian goods. These include Murano beads, local biscuits, artisanal prints and masks. By purchasing items from local artisans, you’re supporting the Venetian craft industry. w w w.wh e re it a lia .c o m / ve ni ce   41

IfIf being your way way of of life, life, an an instinctive instinctivemindset, mindset,being being being aa tourist tourist is is your


SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Scuola Grande di San Rocco The headquarters of the San Rocco Brotherhood, this stunning building, to which hardly any modifications have been made, hosts more than 60 masterpieces by artists of the likes of Giorgione, Tiepolo and Titian, still presented in their original layout. Its establishment represented an important moment in the history of 16th century Venetian art, above all thanks to Tintoretto’s famous cycle of Old and New Testament scenes. Open daily, 9.30am5.30pm. Full price ticket €10; Scuola Grande + church €8. www.scuolagrandesanrocco.it. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco stop). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4

MUSEUMS & EXHIBITION SITES Fondazione Cini-San Giorgio Maggiore

Gallerie dell'Accademia di Venezia

VENETIAN MUSEUM HUB Following a Napoleonic decree, the Gallerie dell'Accademia were instituted as an educational adjunct to the Academy of Fine Arts. They host the most important collection of Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo, and works by several important landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The monumental complex hosting these works occupies the ancient church of Santa Maria della Carità, the Scuola Grande della Carità and the Canonici Lateranensi convent complex designed by Andrea Palladio in 1561. Open Mon 8.15am-2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Full ticket price: €9. www. gallerieaccademia.it. Dorsoduro 1050 (Campo della Carità). T: 041 5222247. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop). Map D5

Museo del Vetro (Glass Museum) Housed in the aristocratic palazzo Giustinian, on the island of Murano, the collections exhibited at the museum are arranged in chronological

COURTESY PALAZZO GRASSI; PH: ORCH ORSENIGO_CHEMOLLO

Set against the magnificent backdrop of the Basin of St Mark, the Foundation was established in 1951 by Count Vittorio Cini to restore the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore and to create an international centre of cultural activities. The Foundation is housed in the monumental complex of the former Benedictine Monastery of San Giorgio Maggiore. Enlarged in the 16th century by Andrea Palladio, who also designed its refectory, the church of San Giorgio Maggiore and the Cloister of Cypresses, in addition to numerous other treasures, the complex hosts an impressive collection of paintings by Jacopo Tintoretto, as well as several

16th and 17th century works of arts. Guided tours in Italian, English and French on Saturdays and Sundays. For information and booking T: 041 2201215. Full price ticket €10. www.cini.it.Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 2710280. Vaporetto line 2 (Isola di San Giorgio stop). Map G6

order: in addition to the archaeological section featuring Roman remains from the 1st and 2nd centuries A.D., you can also find an extensive range of historical objet d’art made from Murano glass, including important pieces produced between the 15th and 20th centuries. Open daily. Full price ticket €10. Joint ticket for the Glass Museum + Lace Museum €12. www.museovetro. visitmuve.it. Fondamenta Giustinian, 8. Murano. T: 041 5274718. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2 (Museo Murano stop). Off Map

Museo di San Marco The itinerary that you’ll follow inside the museum, will take you from the historic area above the atrium-narthex of the Basilica and the former Banqueting Hall of the Doges, through the three extensive themes that are a part of the heritage of St. Mark’s Basilica. Particularly noteworthy are the famous gilded bronze horses of St. Marks and the Basilica’s ancient fragments of mosaics. The tour takes visitors through various areas of the Basilica, we therefore suggest wearing attire that is respectful of the religious nature of the Basilica. Open daily 9.45am-4.45pm. Closed on Mon. Full price ticket €5. www.museosanmarco.it. San Marco 328 (Procuratoria di San Marco). T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto linee 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 o 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Museo Ebraico di Venezia

JEWISH MUSEUM This a ‘dispersed museum’; a highly unusual urban complex that includes the museum itself, the Ghetto, synagogues and an ancient cemetery. It contains a small but precious collection of artifacts related to the long history of the Jews in Venice. Thanks to guided tours (in Italian and English), you can visit three of the area’s five historic synagogues, located between the Ghetto Vecchio (Old Ghetto) and the Ghetto Nuovo (New Ghetto), and the Old Cemetery (16th-18th century) in San Nicolò del Lido. Finally, to commemorate the tragedy of the Second World War, there is a bronze relief Holocaust Memorial in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo. Full price ticket €4; Jewish Museum + guided tour of the synagogues : full price ticket €10. www. museoebraico.it. Cannaregio 2902\b. T: 041 71535. Vaporetto lines 1-2 (San Marcuola-Ghetto stop), lines 41-42-51-52 (Ponte delle GuglieGhetto stop). Map D2

Palazzo Ducale

Eight Centuries of Art The Dorsoduro Museum Mile connects eight museums along a mile long path in the Dorsoduro district, between the Grand Canal and the Giudecca Canal. On an itinerary of eight centuries of world art history, visitors can admire masterpieces of Venetian painting from the Middle Ages and the Renaissance in the Gallerie dell'Accademia and the latest contemporary production on display at the Punta della Dogana. On the way, visitors can also explore the former homes of great collectors such Vittorio Cini and Peggy Guggenheim and view their respective collections. The entrance ticket of one of the above museums will allow visitors to enter any of the other institutions at a special rate. www.palazzograssi.it – www.guggenheim-venice.it – www.gallerieaccademia.it – www.palazzocini.it

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A landmark attraction, a masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, the Ducal Palace features a number of different architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it not only houses temporary exhibitions but can also be visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. The public entrance is through the ‘Porta del Frumento’ which leads to the spacious council rooms and then onwards to the exquisite rooms of the Doge’s Apartment. Other highlights on this route include the prisons and loggias overlooking the square and the lagoon. Open daily. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 1 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti), 5.1 or 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4


MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

| SIGHTSEEING

Palazzo Grassi-Punta della Dogana Overlooking the Grand Canal and recently restored by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, Venice’s 18th century Palazzo Grassi and the former harbour of Punta della Dogana are two contemporary art museums funded by the François Pinault Foundation. They host important collective or monographic exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault Collection, one of the world’s largest collections of contemporary art. Palazzo Grassi’s ‘Teatrino’, an adjunct to the exhibition spaces, offers an action packed calendar of conferences, concerts and screenings of an international scope. Open daily 10am7pm. Closed on Tuesdays, 25 December. Full price ticket €18 (Punta della Dogana+Palazzo Grassi). www. palazzograssi.it. T: 041 2001057. Palazzo Grassi San Marco 3231 (Campo San Samuele). Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop), 1 (Sant’Angelo stop). Map D4 • Museo Punta della Dogana Dorsoduro 2. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map F5

Teatro La Fenice

Formerly a patrician residence, in 1985 it became the Study Centre of the History of Fabrics and Costumes. Its exhibition spaces explore various aspects of the lives and activities of Venetian aristocrats between the 17th and 18th centuries. The exhibits on display include opulent garments and olden-day accessories, with a section dedicated to perfume. The palazzo’s furnishings and paintings have been integrated with a number of works originating from the warehouses of Venice’s civic museums. Open from 1 April to 31 October: 10am-5pm; from 1 November to 31 March: 10am-4pm. Full price ticket €8. www.mocenigo.visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 1992. T: 041 721798. Vaporetto line 1 (San Stae stop). Map E3

Peggy Guggenheim Collection | Palazzo Venier dei Leoni The museum, boasting one of the most important collections of 20th century art in Europe, hosts the personal collection of American heiress Peggy Guggenheim. Her palatial canal side home showcases her collection of Cubist, Furturist, Surrealist and Abstract Expressionist art, with works by almost 200 artists, including Picasso, Pollock, Kandinsky, Miró, de Chirico and Dalí. It also hosts the works of other important collections and prestigious temporary exhibitions. Open Wed-Mon 10am-6pm. Full price ticket €15. www.guggenheim-venice.it. Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, Dorsoduro 701 (Canal Grande). T: 041 2405.440/419. Vaporetto line 2 (Accademia stop), line 1 (Accademia stop or Salute stop). Map E5

Scuola Grande di San Rocco The headquarters of the San Rocco Brotherhood, this stunning building, to which hardly any modifications have been made, hosts more than 60 masterpieces by artists of the likes of Giorgione, Tiepolo and Titian, still presented in their original layout. Its establishment represented an important moment in the history of 16th century Venetian art, above all thanks to Tintoretto’s famous cycle of Old and New Testament scenes. Open daily, 9.30am-5.30pm. Full price ticket €10; Scuola Grande + church €8. www.scuolagrandesanrocco.it. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco stop). T: 041 718234. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4

PHOTO © MICHELE CROSERA

Palazzo Mocenigo-Centro Studi di Storia del Tessuto e del Costume

Teatro La Fenice during the New Year's Eve concert There never has been such an evocative name. 230 years ago, the Phoenix, a legendary bird who rises from the ashes, gave its name to what is now the bestloved and most famous theatre in Venice. La Fenice’s history is particularly unusual. During the second half of the 18th century, the prestigious Teatro San Benedetto was partially destroyed by a fire, but rebuilt by the ‘Nobile Società dei Palchettisti’, the owners of the property. However, due to a judicial ruling by the Venier family, it was forced to sell the complex. This prompted the Association to build another larger, more luxurious theatre, which they called La Fenice as a tribute to its rebirth. In the 19th century, it staged numerous premieres of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. In 1836, a fire damaged part of the structure which was rebuilt within a year. In 1996, another devastating fire almost destroyed the theatre completely. However, despite the serious damage, La Fenice rose once again from the ashes, more splendid than ever before. If you want additional information about this legendary theatre and its ‘stars’, you can book a tour that allows access to its lavish interiors that are decorated with stuccoes and gilded ornamentation, including a

visit to the rooms hosting a permanent exhibition dedicated to Maria Callas. The Teatro La Fenice is usually open for tours daily from 9.30am to 6pm, although variations may occur in the schedule for artistic or technical reasons. The Theatre hosts a Maria Callas exhibition focused on her Venetian years. Ticket: 10 euros (including an audio guide, which is available in 5 languages: Italian, English, German, French and Spanish). www.festfenice.com www.teatrolafenice.it. Campo San Fantin, 1965. T: 041 786654. Map 4E

Maria Callas

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ESSENTIALS

Venice, the floating city Some information and invaluable tips to experience the best that this magical city on water has to offer. By Simona P. K. Daviddi

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talians (at least many of them), may already know that Venice… actually floats! Unlike Amsterdam or Saint Petersburg, it is not just furrowed by canals, bordered by roads and pavements. In Venice, canals are the only available communication route, bearing in mind that part of the city extends over a handful of beautiful islands that are scattered across the Lagoon. For this reason, the lagoon city can only be crossed on foot or by boat. Cars, motorbikes, bicycles and even roller skates are strictly forbidden. But this is not all. At times Venice may find itself... under water! The acqua alta phenomenon – the result of heavy rainfall and high tides - can cause the water level to rise by as much as a meter, forcing everyone to walk on raised plank walkways, or don rain boots (many shops, including tobacconists, sell disposable

ones) in order to cross the city’s flooded calli, campielli and salizade. Calli, campielli and salizade are Venetian words used to identify streets, squares and alleys while sestieri is the local word indicating the six districts the city is divided into: San Marco, Dorsoduro, Cannaregio, Santa Croce, San Polo and Castello. This division dates back to the 12th century and also includes areas such as La Giudecca, the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore (San Marco) and the Island of San Michele, home to the city’s cemetery (Castello). Street numbers in each sestiere start from 1 and often reach four figures, for example, one of the last numbers of the sestiere of Castello is 7,000. You need to learn them if you want to find your way through the spectacular, maze-like historic centre.

44  V E N I C E T H E W E LC O M E M A G A Z I N E I S E P T E M B E R 2 021

Venice also has its own network of public... and private transportation: its vaporetti, real waterbuses, are the most popular craft used by locals, which is why they are often very crowded during peak hours. These enginepowered water taxis are able to whiz across the lagoon in a heartbeat, but for those who prefer a unique, incredibly romantic experience, the famous, distinctive gondola is an absolute must. This elegant, black, one-oared rowing boat drifts gently across the water, while its gondolier sings an entire repertoire of traditional Venetian folk songs. It goes without saying that the waters of the canals are not suitable for swimming, and their banks are often slippery. Be careful not to be so focused on your selfie stick that you walk into a canal because you might be in for some rather unpleasant surprises!


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/VENICE

Emergency POLICE T: 113 AMBULANCE T: 118 FIRE BRIGADE T: 115 TRAFFIC POLICE T: 041 2747070 LOST AND FOUND ON VAPORETTI T: 041 2722179 24-HOUR PHARMACY: check the display at

UNIQUE | FAST TRAINS NETWORK FROM VENICE

all pharmacies.

Airports INTERNATIONAL MARCO POLO DI TESSERA AIRPORT (VCE) - Venice’s Marco Polo Airport offers easy access to numerous destinations located in the Veneto region and in Northern Italy, the Canova di Treviso Airport (in Sant’Angelo) and main railway routes. The Marco Polo Airport is situated at a distance of 13 km from Venice (www.veniceairport.it). Trasportation from the Marco Polo Airport to the historic centre of Venice (and vice-versa): • Taxis (15 min. to Piazzale Roma, approximately €40); • water taxis (fast, private motorboats, approximately €80 ). This service is operative 24/24h (Consorzio Motoscafi Venezia www.motoscafivenezia.it. T: 041 5222303). • ATVO shuttle bus (20 min. to Piazzale Roma, €3, luggage included); • ACTV bus no. 5 (30 min. to Piazzale Roma with intermediate stops, €1, luggage excluded); • Alilaguna motorboats (a private service that uses ACTV’s network of docking stations with intermediate stops at strategic points throughout the city. Fares range from 8 to 27 euros). www.alilaguna.it. T: 041 2401701.

Trains FERROVIE DELLO STATO - Trenitalia Railway

Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com. Venice’s Railway Station (Santa Lucia) can be accessed from all main European and Italian cities. The Railway Station overlooks the lagoon and is located just steps from the stops of Venice’s main public transportation lines. E.g.: to reach St. Mark’s Square by vaporetto, take line 1 or 2. Estimated journey time from main Italian cities via high-speed trains, including Frecciarossa, Frecciabianca, Frecciargento, Italo, Thello, Eurocity.

Tourist Information APT - Azienda di promozione Turistica Città

Metropolitana di Venezia (eng.turismovenezia. it/): Palazzetto Carmagnani, San Marco 2637. T: 041 5298711. VENEZIA UNICA - The official tourism website

of the City of Venice (www.veneziaunica.it)

Tourist Card VENEZIA UNICA CITY PASS is an all-in-one pass

that offers unlimited use of public transportation, admission to tourist attractions and cultural events in the city, plus a number of other useful services. You can purchase your card online and customize your Venezia Unica City Pass to suit your individual travel needs (www.veneziaunica.it/en) exchange vouchers. Open daily 9am-4pm. T: 392 6786628.

GETTING AROUND VENICE Because it is a relatively small, compact city (a 45-minute walk from North to South) whose main points of interest are situated just a short distance from each other, visiting Venice on foot is the ideal solution. Vaporetti - An efficient network of water bus routes covers the entire city and includes transportation to the islands.The service is active 24/24h but runs less frequently between 9.30pm and 6am. Landing stages are located at central points around the city (including Piazzale Roma, Rialto, Piazza San Marco…) . Tickets - Although paper tickets are available at main embarkation points and from authorized resellers displaying the ACTV logo, electronic tickets can also be pre-purchased online. ACTV: Piazzale Roma. T: 041 2424. www actv.it. There are 6 different types of tickets, ranging from hourly tickets (€7.50 for a 75’ regular route) to a weekly pass (€60) for unlimited travel on almost all lines. TIP The boat trip from one bank of the Grand Canal to the other costs 2 euro (only cash).You can pre-purchase reducedprice tickets from Venice Connected: www. veniceconnected.com. IMOB smart cards are available at all ACTV ticket offices. Although they allow you to save on official rates, they are only recommended for long-term visits. Gondolas - These traditional craft are among the best-known tourist attraction for those wishing to experience a view of Venice that is anything but pedestrian. They are used almost exclusively by tourists (and Venetians on their wedding days). TIP Before embarking, we suggest that you check official rates

(approximately €80 for 45 minutes and €100 after 7pm). Agree on a price, time limit and singing in advance to avoid unexpected surcharges. Associazione dei Gondolieri T. 041 5285075. www.gondolavenezia.it Traghetti (Ferries) - ‘Traghetti’ are gondolas that cross the Grand Canal in 8 points. ‘Traghetti’ rides cost just €2 for non-residents (for holders of City Pass Venezia Unica or ACTV passes, rides cost 0.70) and operate almost non-stop. Four ferry services operate in Venice. Taxi - Water taxis with a cabin (private water taxis) are available for hire from 16 landing stages, including Lido Aeroporto Marco Polo, piazzale Roma, Ferrovia, Rialto and San Marco, or from your hotel. TIP Although private water taxis can be costly, they are the fastest and most practical means of getting around Venice. Ask your concierge. Car - The city can be accessed from the mainland by car, thanks to an elevated section (a 4km bridge, the longest in Italy, also known as the ‘Translagunare’), with limited parking options at garages in Piazzale Roma or on the Island of Tronchetto. Prices for 24-hour parking cost approximately €30 euro. TIP It’s advisable to travel to Mestre by car (24hour parking costs approximately €15 euro) and then continue on to Venice by public transport. w w w.wh e re it a lia .c o m / ve ni ce   45


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7 GALLERIE DELL’ACCADEMIA

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Palazzo

FONDAMENTA DEL VIN

C. DEI

A N M

CALLE

DE L’OSMARIN FONDAMENTA

SOTO E CORTE NOVA

Rio Del

VERONA

nde Canal Gra

SA

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA

DEL CAFETIER

FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO

GIUFFA

SEVERO

RUGA

SAN

LA

MINELLI

Palazzo Ducale

LO

ZORZI

CAMPO SAN PROVOLO

O

MO

CALLE

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

FONDAMENTA

DIETRO

Santa Maria del Pianto

LATERANO

CORTE NOVA

SALIZADA

C. PIANTON

SCHIAVONI

DEGLI

P U N TA S A B B I O N I

NOVE

DE LE TOLE

FONDAMENTA GIOVANNI

CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO

BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO

MEZO

DE CALLE

CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO

CASTELLO

ORBI

MARCO

CANONICA DE LA

SESTIERE

BARBARIA

DEI

FABBRI

DE

RC

Museo Correr

RIVA

CORTE

NUOVA

REMEDIO

San Giovanni Novo CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO

SAN

SAN

Palazzo Querini Stampalia

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

DEL

LARGA

CALLE

MA

SAN

ZZA

NTA

Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto

CORTE TREVISAN

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani

BANDE

CORTE

CALLE DEL FIGHER

CALLE

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

Basilica di San Marco

LE VIGNOLE

FONDAME

San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti

Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo

Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo

CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

FORNO

CALLE

DELL’OROLOGIO

C.

CALLE

S. SAMUELE

PESTRIN

CAVALLETTO

ORSEOLO

DEL

DEL

PIA

DE LE

FRUTARIOLI

CALLE

SPECHIERI

C.

PISCINA

VERONA

DE LA SACA

CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO

CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO

G. GALLINA

DEL

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

CALLE

DEL FORNO

BALONI

CAPPELLO BIANCA CALLE

CARRO

PRIMO RAMOCONTARINA CORTE

San Moisè

SPADARIA

MARZARIA

LA

CROSERA

CALLE

DE

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

C.

DEL

DEI

MANDOLA

AVVOCATI

CALLE

LARGA

DE LE ERBE

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

TASCA

CORTE

C.DEI

CORTE TORRETTA

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

Bacino Orseolo

FREZZERIA

CAMPO SAN MOISE’

CORTE BAROZZI

ZULIAN

GALLO

CALLE

TRAGHETTO

TERÀ

DEL

RIO

CALLE

DE

MOISE’

XXII MARZO

O MUSSATO CALLE

San Giuliano

SAN

PIGNOLI

DEI

C.

C. DE LE COLONNE

SA PISCINA

LUCATELLO

MARZARIA

DEI

CALLE

REDIVO

CALLE

CALLE GOLDONI

TRAGHETTO

CALLE

DEL

PISCINA

LA CHIESA

DRIO

LARGA

CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

MEZO

C.

GRAGOLINA LE COLONNE DE

REMER

CALLE

FABBRI

CALLE

DE

CAPITELLO

BALOTE

CASSELERIA

DEI

GRIMANI

CALLE

PISCOPIA

CAVALLI

CARBON

CALLE

Salvador

CALLE

CORNER

DEL

San

CALLE

CALLE

Rio

CORTE MICHIEL

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

DEL

TAGIAPIERA LE

LIO

BEMBO

SAN

CALLE CAMPO SAN GALLO

BERLENDIS

CORTE NOVA

CALLE GABRIELI

DRIO CALLE LE SCUOLE

CALLE

CALLE

SAN

CALLE

MADONA

San Fantin CALLE

RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO

STRAZZE TERÀ RIO

VENEZIA

NOVE

CALLE

CORTE CORTESE

CAMPIELLO STELLA CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

CALLE

LICINI

CORTE GRAGOLINA

DELLE

BOTERI

VARISCO

CASTELLI

SALIZADA

DE LA

FORNO

RAMO

DEL

MARZARIA

C.

C.

PIOMBO

D. PALLE

CORTE

RUBBI

MAGAZEN

FRUTARIOL

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

C. LARGA

CORTE

CORTE C.DEL TRAMONTIN

C.DE

LIO

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

CAMPO

DE LA FAVA

CALICE

Spirito Santo CALLE

DEI LAVRANERI

San Gerardo

BIAGIO

DEI

O

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE DEL C.MARTINENGO

SAN

GALIAZZO

C. DEL

SALVADOR

O DEL

CALLE

DOLERA

DEL

Teatro la Fenice

San Gregorio

DEL FORNO

LUCA

DEL

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

MARCO

CAFETIER

CAOTORTA

Santa Maria del Giglio

CHIESA

CALLE DEL NAVARO

FONDAMENTA

SAN

CALLE

FONDAMENTE

LARGA

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

WIDMANN

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

MIRACOLI

SALIZADA

SAN

COCCO

CALLE CALLE

CALLE

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

C O RT E B ATA G I A

DEI

GIAZZO

CAMPO

SAN LIO

C. DEL

SABION

San Salvador

TEATRO

CALLE

CALLE DEL BASTION

DELLA

SALIZADA

SANTO

DEL CALLE

LOCANDE

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

CAPPUZZI

TEATRO

ASSASSINI

CALLE

CAMPO

SAN BORTOLOMIO

X

CORTE DEL

MARZARIA

CALLE

CORTE DEL

Palazzo Nervi Scattolin CALLE

RIO

Teatro Malibran

CALLE

GALIZZI

STURION

DEI

DEL

DEI PUTI

CALLE

SPIRITO

TERÀ

RIO

MAZZINI

CORTE

SAN SALVADOR

CAMPO MANIN

PATERNIN

MANDOLA

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

CALLE

ZATTERE

CINQUE

C.

SAN CALLE

Canal Grande

C.SANT'AGNESE

FONDAMENTA ALLO

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

TEATRO

CALLE

DEL

San Maurizio CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

Giudecca Hilton

DEI

Santo Stefano

Accademia

CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

Palazzo Grimani

CALLE

CAL RAMO

S.Canciano

SAN CANZIAN

FONTEGO

PIO

LARGA

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

BOTEGHE

CAMPO PISANI

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

AI GESUATI

CALLE

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

LE

CALLE

DE

VOLTI

VENIER

CORTE DEL REMER

FRUTARIOL

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

C. DEL

SALIZZADA

Rialto

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

San Beneto San Luca

CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia NANI

nde G ra

SAN

CROSERA

CALLE CALLE

BARBA

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto

TOSCANA

SAMUELE

ZEN

SARTORI

TERÀ

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

San Giacomo di Rialto

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli) CALLE

DEL

CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

CAMPO DEI GESUITI

FONDAMENTA

FOND.

RIO

SALIZADA

San Giovanni Grisostomo

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

DE

S.

San Vidal

CATENE

Chiesa dei Gesuiti

CATERINA

PRIULI

CALLE

DONZELA

LEZZE

CARROZZE

DEL PISTOR

NOVE

CALLE

SANTA

S.ANDREA

FONDAMENTA

NOVA

PESCARIA

San Silvestro

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

Palazzo Fortuny

NARISI

FALIER

CALLE

FONDAMENTE

FONDAMENTA

FOND.

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

Santa Sofia

STRADA

CAMPO DELLA

LA

FOND.

CALLE

LONGO

IA

RAVANO

DEL

CALLE

LE

Abazia della Misericordia D

R

TRAPOLIN

STUA

BECARIE

DE

enzera

O

LA

C.

CALLE

IC

CAMPO DE LA

ORESI

Bacino

ER

DEL

RUGHETA

DEI

e Scom

IS

Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana

DEL SOL

PARANGON

CALLE DELL'OLIO

Canal

M

FONDAMENT

VENDRAMIN

CAMPIELLO DEL SANSONI

CAMPIELLO

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

Palazzo Loredan

Zattere

VAPORETTO

TA

MUTI

RUGA

DE

ZATTERE

DEL

EN

CA'

San Felice

CA’

BOTA

Sant’Aponal PERDON

CALLE

CAMPO SAN BENETO CALLE

SALIZADA

CALLE

Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione

CALLE

AM

DE

CALLE

DE LA

CARAMPANE

S.Silvestro

SESTIERE

S. Samuele

FONDAMENTA

CA LLE

D

A A

San Cassiano CALLE DE

LE

DEL

DI SAN MARCO

VECCHIA

Palazzo Grassi San Samuele

CALLE

N

FONDAMENT

CAMPO

CALLE

DE

al Can

CA’ CORTE

Ca' Rezzonico

San Trovaso

dell'Orto

MORI

CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE

L

CARAMPANE

TERÀ

Sant'Angelo

CALLE

CAMPO SAN TROVASO

NA

Santa Fosca

d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro

RIO

Palazzo Querini-Dubois

Palazzo Giustinian Persico

RAMO

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI

BONLINI

CA

NA

TIOZZI

SAN CASSAN

S. Toma' SX

CALLE BERNARDO

OGNISANTI

LE

ALE

DEI

San Tomà

CALLE

DE

NIE

DD

L’AGNELLA

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

CAMPO SAN TOMÀ

FONDAMENTA

PONTE

.DA

MA

CALLE

DE

FABBRICHE

SPORCA CALLE PAZIENZE DE LE

FOND.

AL

LA

S.Stae

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

C.

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

Ca' Rezzonico

ZATTERE

DEI

FO

À D E

LE

SCOAZZERA DE LA

LE PAZIENZE

DE OGNISANTI

Misericordia

FO de Servi N

TER

CORTE DEL TEATRO

CAMPO SAN APONAL

BEATE GIULIANA

SACCA

FISOLA

LARGA

della

Rio

San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale

DE

A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA

FONDAMENTA

Rio

CALLE CA’BONVINCINI

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

CROSERA

San Barnaba

INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON

IA

La Maddalena

SCALETER

CAMPO SAN POLO

CALLE

L’ASEO

FODAMENTA

CALLE CHIESA

RD

R

CALLE

DEL

DE

TINTOR

C. DE

SE NA

DEL

DE

CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA

Chiesa di Ognissanti

CALLE DE LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN BESAGIO

S. Basilio

DELLA

ICO

TENTOR

BOLDO

C.

CONTARINI

CAMPO FONDAMENTA DEI MORI

ER

TRON

DEL

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

SAN

SOTOPORTEGO

CALLE

CALLE

RIO TERA’

MA

BARI

PRETI

RENIER

FOMO

CANAL RIO TERA’

FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN

LA

DEI

TOLENTINI

SEBASTIAN

DE

LARGA

C.

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

CAMPO DEI FRARI

MORETTI

C.

DEI

SAN

se A ric or dia

C.

Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

MEZO

CAMPO

SAN BOLDO

CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO

ZANE

CAMPO SAN STIN

TOMÀ

CALLE

I CALLE ORSETT

DE

VECCHIO

CHI DEL

CAMPO DEI CARMINI

FONDAMENTA BESAGIO

MIS

E DEL PISTO

Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

L’ISOLA

OCHE CALLE

SAN POLO

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

Madonna

NOVA

DEI

VECCHIO BERGAMAS

SIMEONE

SAN

della

STRADA

DE

DE LA VIDA

CALLE

TERÀ

CALLE TRAGHETTO

SAN

TRAGHETTO CALLE

GUARDIANI

Carmini

Santa Maria dei Carmini

DEI

CAMPO SAN PANTALON

CALLE

CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA

ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA

Marco Polo 6 deiFontego Tedeschi

LE

NA

C.

NUOVA

CALLE SAN

PANTALON

San Pantalon

NUOVO

CALLE

del

TA

SE

CALLE

LUNGA

RIO

ROSSA

SALIZADA

DORSODURO

TINTORETTO

DORSODURO

San Sebastiano CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI

A E M

CALLE

BASEGO

Rio dei Tolentini

RAGUSEI

FONDAMENTA

Rio

TERA’

RAMO

CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO

CALLE

RIO

Basilica dei Frari

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

EN

RIO

CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

San Giacomo dall'Orio

OCHE

LATTE

San Rocco

Muneghete

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

BRIATI

CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO

CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN

LL

DIA

CAZZIOLA

CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL

AM

CALL

RIO DIETRO TERÀ LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA

Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola

RUGA BELA

C.VENZATO

LA

LACA CALLE DE LA LACA

le

CAMPO SAN ROCCO SAN

FONDAMENTA

RIELO

LORENZO

TA

METO

ce

Angelo Raffaele

LARDONI

ND

I

San Marcuola

DEL REMER

RIO

DE

LA

FONDARIA

CIMESIN

de

Giudecca Hilton

CALLE

SACCA SAN

VE

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

i ia e

CALLE

LER

EONARDO

CAMPIELLO

CALLE CAZZA

CALLE SAVIO

RUGA VECCHIA

CAMPO NAZARIO SAURO

A GARZOTTI FONDAMENTA CALLE ORSETTI

DE

LA

RAMO

CIMESIN

SALIZADA

SAN MICHELE

DELL'ORTO

SAN LEONARDO

San Leonardo

BARI LISTA

FONDAMENT

CALLE

C. CAMPAZZO DE

CALLE

RAMO

MINOTTO

Magazen

CALLE CONTARINA

FONDAMENTA

C. SAN

EN

SAL IZAD

RR

DE L’OGIO

S. L R I O T E R À CAMPO

BIASIO

DI

RIVA FONDAMENTA

San Simeone Profeta

CANAL CORTE

LUNA

Rio

Madonna dell'Orto

MADONNA

A

Hundertwasser' Garden

San Giovanni Grisostomo

CA

DEI FONTEGHERI

CALLE

CALLE SAN BASILIO

FONDAMENTO

NO

C AL

LA RG A

CALLE

AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO

CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO

TE

Santi Apostoli

n

NICOLO’

San Nicolò dei Mendicoli

CALLE

Istituto Universitario Di Architettura

NS

CALLE ORTI

angelica ana

te alto

SAN

MATTA DI CA’

CALLE CASE NUOVE

SE

Convento Delle Figlie Del Cuore Di Gesu'

. S.A

LI

MARTA

SANTA FONDAMENTA

CAMPIELLO LONGHI

CALLE

CERERI

L' ARZERE

IU

Rio Nuovo RIZZI

PROCURATIE

DEI FONDAMENTA

CAMPIELLO P I AV E

FONDAMENTA

TA

nde l Gra Cana Riva de Biaso

CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO

Palazzo Soranzo Capello

Soranzo Cappello

LA

San Nicola da Tolentino

PENSIERI

MADONA

DE

FO ND

AM

DEI

FONDAMENTA

LA

FONDAMENTA

ND

TERÀ

FONDAMENTA

DE

SPAGNA

TERÀ

Giardino di Palazzo

DE

DEI AMAI

CALLE

Del

EN

NUOVE

CAMPO

PAPADOPOLI

TABACCHI

FO

EN

FONDAMENTA

NUOVA

AM

FON.

CALLE

VENEZIA

RIO

CALLE

CASE CORTE

FONDAMENTA

Rio

ER LE P

SAVORGNAN

San Geremia DI LISTA RIO

SCALZI

Ferrovia

CROCE

C. LAVADORI SANT'ANDREA

TABACCHI

CAL

FONDAMENTA

MISERICOR

LIBERTÀ

ND

TERÀ

AM

Museo Ebraico

Palazzo Nani

Palazzo Labia Parco Savorgnan Salone del Tiepolo

LA

DELLA

FO

LA

Giardino Papadopoli

PIAZZALE ROMA RIO

FONDAMENTA

ND

INE

Rio

DE

PONTE

CROCE FABBRICA

ZZ

CANNAREGIO

FONDAMENTA

San Simeon Piccolo

Ferrovia

Ferrovia

Sant'Andrea

SANT'ANDREA

Sant'Alvise

CAMPO S A N T ' A LV I S E

Sensa FO

PU

San Girolamo

Ponte degli Scalzi DEI

TERÀ

CA

CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO

CAVALLETT

I

P.le Roma

Ponte della Costituzione FO.

RIO

People Mover Venezia

LE

O

FO

Santa Maria di Nazareth

People Mover Venezia

S A N TA

DE

AM

CA

CALLE

AI

Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia

ITTICO

TA

OL

CAMPO SAN GEREMIA

PRIULI

O

MERCATO

EN

CANNAREGIO

CALLE

TRONCHETT

DIREZIONE

AM

N G IR

di Cannaregio

CAMPO SAFFA

NOVA DEL

ND

SA

LLO

RIO TERÀ CAZZA

Canale

GIOBBE

San Giobbe

ISOLA

TRONCHETTO

di Sant'Alvise

CASE

TA

CALLE

FO EN

TE

DEI

AM

B AT

CALLE

ND

MUNEGHE

TA

LE

FORNER

EN

DE

DEL

AM

FONDAMENTA

SAN

CAMPIELLO DE LA LAVANDER

NUOVA ISOLA DEL TRONCHETTO People Mover Venezia

Parcheggio Bus Turistici

della

COLETTI FO

ND

CALLE

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

Rio

CARLO

FO

SEBASTIANO

NUOVE

Rio

FOND.A

Ponte dei Tre Archi

FONDAMENTA

BRAGADIN

PENITENTI

VENIER FONDAMENTA

LARGA

CANNAREGIO

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

CAMPIELLO DEL SCARLATTO

SESTIERE

TA’

FOSCARI

ER

CALLE

B

Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo

RUGA

Parco

Monastero "Villa Groggia" Carmelitane Scalze

ROLAMO SACCA SAN GI F O N D A M E N TA

SANGIANTOFFETTI

LI

EREMITE

LA

FONDAMENTA

EL

Santa Maria delle Penitenti

ISOLA DELLE TRESSE

FAUSTA

Chiesa di San Michele in Isola

D

FONDAMENTA

LE

NANI

A

FONDAMENTA

VI

DI SAN ROCCO

10 SAN GIORGIO MAGGIORE

15 TORCELLO

7

16 SAN CLEMENTE

PALACE KEMPINSKI

11 LIDO DI VENEZIA

S. Servolo

H

I

w w w.wh e re it a lia .c o m / ve ni ce   47

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[ O N LY AT P R E M I E R E H O T E L S I N V E N I C E ]

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The Welcome Magazine The magazine in digital or paper version is available at these hotels which are part of the Welcome Smart Network by WhereItalia circuit. www.proedi.it/welcome-smart-network 5 STARS DELUXE (L) & 5 STARS Aman Canal Grande Venice Resort Hotel – San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo Baiamonte) • E4 Baglioni Hotel Luna – San Marco, 1243 • F5 Bauer Palazzo (L) – San Marco, 1459 • F5 Belmond Hotel Cipriani (L) – Giudecca, 10 • F6 Ca’ Sagredo (L) – Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99 • E3 Hotel Danieli, a Luxury Collection Hotel, Venice – Castello, 4196 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • F5 Excelsior Venice (L) – Lungomare Marconi, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map Grande Albergo Ausonia & Hungaria – Gran Viale S. M. Elisabetta, 28 (Lido) • Off Map Hilton Molino Stucky (L) – Giudecca, 810 • C6 JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa (L) – Isola delle Rose – (Laguna di San Marco) • Off Map Londra Palace – Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4 Metropole – Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149 • G4 NH Collection Venezia Grand Hotel Palazzo dei Dogi– Cannaregio, 3500 (Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto) • E2 Palazzina Grassi – San Marco, 3247 (Ramo Grassi) • D4 San Clemente Palace Kempinski (L) – Isola di San Clemente, 1 • Off Map SINA Centurion Palace – Dorsoduro, 173 • F5 Venart Luxury Hotel – S. Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron) • E3 4 STARS & LUXURY RESIDENCES A La Commedia – San Marco, 4596 • E4 Ai Cavalieri di Venezia – Castello, 6108 (Calle Borgolocco) • F4 Ai Mori d’Oriente – Cannaregio, 3319 (Fondamenta Sensa) • E2 Ai Reali di Venezia – Castello, 5527 (Campo della Fava) • F4 Best Western Premier Collection CHC Continental – Cannaregio, 166 (Rio Terà Lista di Spagna) • D3 Biasutti Hotel – Via Dandolo, 29 – (Lido) • Off Map Bisanzio – Riva degli Schiavoni-Calle della Pietà, 3651 • G4 Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4488 (Calle Goldoni) • F4 Bucintoro – Castello, 2135/a • H5 Carlton On The Grand Canal – Santa Croce, 578 • C3 Carnival Palace – Fondamenta di Cannaregio, 929 • C2 Cavalletto & Doge Orseolo – San Marco, 1107 (Sotoportego del Cavalletto) • F4 Colombina – Castello, 4416 (Calle del Remedio) • F4 Concordia – San Marco, 367 (Calle Larga San Marco) • F4 Duodo Palace – San Marco, 1887/1888 (Calle Minelli) • D3 Firenze – San Marco, 1490 • F5 Foscari Palace – Cannaregio, 4200/1/2 (Campo Santa Sofia) • E3 Le Boulevard – Granviale S. Maria Elisabetta, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map Le Ville del Lido – Via Bragadin, 38 (Lido) • Off Map Liassidi Palace – Castello, 3405 (Ponte dei Greci) • G4 L’Orologio Venezia – San Polo, 1777 (Riva del l’Ogio) • E3 Locanda Vivaldi – Castello, 4150/52 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4 Maison Venezia | UNA Esperienze – Cannaregio, 4173 (Ruga Do Pozzi) • F3

Monaco & Grand Canal – San Marco, 1332 (Calle Vallaresso) • F5 Nani Mocenigo Palace – Dorsoduro, 960 (Fondamenta Nani) • D5 NH Collection Murano Villa – – Fondamenta Andrea Navagero, 29 – Murano (Ve) NH Venezia Rio Novo – Dorsoduro, 3489/E-C (Calle Larga Ragusei) • C4 NH Venezia Santa Lucia – Cannaregio, 116/A (Rio Terà Lista di Spagna) • D2 Oltre il Giardino – San Polo, 2542 (Fondamenta Contarini) • D4 Palace Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4680 (Calle dei Fabbri) • F4 Palazzetto Pisani Boutique Resort – San Marco, 2814 • E5 Palazzo Barocci –San Marco, 3878/A (Corte dell’Albero) • E4 Palazzo Giovanelli – Santa Croce, 2070 (Campo San Stae) • E3 Palazzo Guardi – Dorsoduro, 995 • D5 Palazzo Stern – Dorsoduro, 2792/A • D5 Palazzo Veneziano – Dorsoduro, 1413 • D5 Pesaro Palace – Cannaregio, 3935 (Calle Ca’ D’oro) • E3 Petit Palais Venice – Lungomare Marconi, 54 (Lido) • Off Map Principe – Cannaregio, 146 (Lista di Spagna) • D3 Quattro Fontane – Via Quattro Fontane, 16 (Lido) • Off Map Residenza Ducato – San Marco, 4283 • F4 Rialto – San Marco, 5149 (Riva del Ferro) • F4 Royal San Marco – Santa Croce, 578 • F4 Russo Palace Hotel – Riviera San Nicolò, 11/a (Lido) • Off Map Ruzzini Palace – Castello, 5866 (Campo di Santa Maria Formosa) • F4 San Marco Palace – Piazza San Marco, 875 • F4 Santa Chiara – Santa Croce, 548 • C3 Santa Marina – Castello, 6068 (Calle Seco Marina) • F4 Saturnia & International – San Marco, 2399 • E5 SINA Palazzo Sant’Angelo – San Marco, 3878/B – 3488 • E4 Starhotels Splendid Venice – San Marco, 760 (San Marco Mercerie) • F4 Torre Dell’ Orologio - San Marco Luxury Venice – San Marco, 288 • F4 Villa Laguna – Via Sandro Gallo, 6 – (Lido) • Off Map Villa Mabapa – Riviera San Nicolò, 16 (Lido) • Off Map Villa Pannonia – Via Doge Michiel, 48 – (Lido) • Off Map BOUTIQUE & CHARME HOTELS TOP Ai Due Principi – Castello, 4972 (Fondamenta de l'Osmarin) • G5 Aqua Palace – Castello, 5492/a (Calle de la Malvasia) • F4 Ca Maria Adele – Dorsoduro, 111 • E5 Ca’ Nigra Lagoon Resort – Santa Croce, 927 • D3 Canal Grande – Santa Croce, 932 • D3 Dei Dragomanni – San Marco, 2711 • E5 Flora – San Marco, 2283/a • E4 Heureka – Cannaregio, 3534 • E2 La Calcina – Dorsoduro, 789 (Zattere) • D6 Moresco – Dorsoduro, 3499 (Fondamenta del Passamonte) • D4 Palazzetto Madonna – San Polo, 2902 (Calle del Scaleter) • D4 Palazzo Abadessa – Cannaregio, 4011 (Calle Priuli) • E3 Palazzo Barbarigo sul Canal Grande – San Polo, 2765 (Calle Corner) • E4

Palazzo Paruta – San Marco, 3824 • E4 Palazzo Priuli – Fondamenta de l'Osmarin, 4979 • G4 CLASSIC Ad Place Venice – San Marco, 2557/A (Fondamenta della Fenice) • E5 Al Ponte Antico – Cannaregio, 5768 (Calle dell’Aseo) • F3 Antiche Figure – Santa Croce, 687 • C3 Antico Doge – Cannaregio, 5643 • F3 Arcadia – Cannaregio, 1333 (Rio Terà S. Leonardo) • D2 Belle Arti – Dorsoduro, 912/A (Rio Terrà Foscarini) • D5 Bloom B&B – San Marco, 3470 • E4 Ca’ del Campo – San Marco, 511 (Campo della Guerra) • F4 Ca’ Gottardi – Cannaregio, 2283 • E3 Ca’ Pagan – San Marco, 3268 (Calle delle Carrozze) • D4 Casa Nicolò Priuli – Castello 4983-4984-4985 • G4 Casa Verardo – Castello, 4765 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo) • F4 Charming House – Dorsoduro, 724 (San Vio) • E5 Corte di Gabriela – San Marco, 3836 (Calle Avvocati) • E4 Le Isole – Castello, 4661 (Campo San Provolo) • G4 Locanda Ca’ del Brocchi – Dorsoduro, 470 (Rio Terà San Vio) • E5 Locanda de la Spada – San Marco, 2488/a (Campo Santa Maria del Giglio) • E5 Locanda Fiorita – San Marco, 3457/a (Campiello Novo) • E4 Novecento – San Marco, 2683 (Calle Dose) • E5 Palazzo Barbarigo sul Canal Grande – San Polo, 2765 (Calle Corner) • E4 OUT OF TOWN 4 STARS & LUXURY RESIDENCES Alexander – Via Forte Marghera , 193/C – Mestre (Ve) Antony Hotel – Via Orlanda, 182 – Mestre (Ve) Antony Palace Hotel – Via E. Mattei, 26 – Marcon (Ve) Best Western Hotel Airvenice – Via G. Pascoli, 1 – Quarto d’Altino (Ve) Best Western Hotel Bologna – Via Piave, 214 – Mestre (Ve) Best Western Plus Quid Hotel Venice Airport – Via Terraglio, 15 – Mestre (Ve) Best Western Titian Inn Hotel Venice Airport – Via Orlanda, 240/244 – Tessera (Ve) Courtyard by Marriott Venice Airport – Via Triestina, 170 – Tessera (Ve) Crowne Plaza Venice East – Viale della Resistenza 18/20 – Quarto d'Altino (Ve) Hilton Garden Inn Venice Mestre San Giuliano – Via Orlanda, 1 – Mestre (Ve) Leonardo Royal Hotel Venice Mestre - Via Ca’ Marcello, 6 – Mestre (Ve) NH Venezia Laguna Palace– Viale Ancona, 2 – Mestre (Ve) ALL Villa Barbarich – Via Molino CANYOU IN THDO Ronchin, 1 – Mestre (Ve) E CIT Y Villa Patriarca Hotel – Via Miranese, 25 Mirano - (Ve)

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