TRUFFLES AND WINE

Vigneti Massa

Truffles and wine, heaven on earth

Known from antiquity, the truffle enjoys absolute pre-eminence. This gift of nature is a favourite of chefs and the most refined palates all over the world on account of its intense, enchanting aroma, which gives a unique touch to every dish and succeeds – in combination with the right wine – in creating a perfect marriage.

BY CORNELIA G. HASSMÜLLER

CORNELIA G. HASSMÜLLER Certified Wine Expert and Owner of Milano Wine Affair. Board member of FISAR Milan Delegation.

Of German origin, but Milanese by adoption for many years now. With a passion for wine in her blood, she has found her vocation in Italy. Thanks to her activities, Milano Wine Affair is spreading the culture of wine, approaching both companies and visitors to Milan, creating multisensory experiences in the form of wine-tasting, events, seminars, teambuilding, entertainment and travel.

The truffle, which prefers permeable and calcareous rubble-type terrain, has found its natural habitat in a dozen Italian regions. Various types of this precious tuber can be found starting from the month of September until March (if we exclude the summer truffle). The most important qualities of truffle are the tartufo bianco pregiato, the tartufo nero pregiato and the tartufo bianchetto or “marzuolo”. In the Food Hall (7th floor) of the Rinascente department store in Milan, at the Maio Restaurant, a “tuber magnatum pico” (tartufo bianco pregiato) weighing 530 grams by the Appennino Food Group (Bologna area) was placed on display for a few days in early October. This year prices have varied from €1,681/kg for average sizes to €2,134/kg for large sizes; these price values are lower compared to last year, however, when they reached as much as €3,800/kg at the Alba Stock Exchange.

WINE AND TRUFFLES: A BALANCE OF FLAVOURS

So which wine should we combine with which truffle? It is very hard to evaluate the perfect combinations and it is advisable to also consider the type of dish and not only the type of precious tuber. To bring out the flavour of the truffle it is necessary to find a wine that has a good but balanced structure in the mouth, whether white or red; many claim that it is necessary to combine white wines with white truffles, while it is red wines for the black ones. Considering that both truffles and wine have strong flavours and aromas, it is necessary to be careful to dose both correctly so as not to risk overpowering one flavour with the other. Our aim is to seek a certain harmony, a kind of “perfect marriage”, so three basic rules should be considered: - truffles do not require wines that are too aromatic; - wines combined with truffle must not be too acidic, but soft; - truffles are highly-prized, so they require an equally high-quality wine.

COMBINATIONS AT TABLE

Perhaps a few examples may help further clarify the perfect combination. A white truffle used for seasoning a juicy fillet of beef? In this case it is preferable to opt for an important wine, soft and balanced (without too many hints of the cask), such as a Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, a Brunello di Montalcino, a Barolo, Sagrantino di Montefalco or Rosso Conero.

A fried egg with grated white or black truffle? The perfect combination is a white wine, also to avoid the tannins of red wines, which are not recommended with egg yolks; a good choice, for example, is a Chardonnay, a Ribolla Gialla, an Erbaluce di Caluso, a Timorasso, a Gavi or an Alto Adige Terlano Pinot Bianco. Tagliolini (tajarin) with Alba white truffle? Here we could combine a Dolcetto d’Alba, a Pinot Nero dell’Alto Adige or a Chianti Classico.

Autumn is the season in which you can find the most varied preparations with truffles in the trattorias and restaurants along the Peninsula: in addition to following the most elementary rules of food-wine pairing, we invite you to have the courage to try new combinations.

TRUFFLE FAIRS

There are many fair events and feasts in many regions in Italy devoted to truffles. Below are just some important events in the month of November, in chronological order:

Marche - Fiera nazionale del Tartufo Bianco di Acqualagna Acqualagna • 1-7-8-14-15 November www.acqualagna.com/54-fiera-nazionale

Tuscany - Mostra Mercato del Tartufo bianco delle Crete Senesi San Giovanni d’Asso • 7-8 November, 14-15 November www.tartufodisangiovannidasso.it Emilia-Romagna - Tartófla Savigno 2020 Savigno • 1|7 - 8|14 - 15 November www.tartufosavigno.com

Tuscany - Mostra Mercato Nazionale del Tartufo Bianco San Miniato • 14-15 | 21-22 | 28-29 November www.terredipisa.it/events

Emilia-Romagna - Sua Maestà il Tartufo Brisighella • 22 November 2020 www.brisighella.org/eventi/

Piemonte - Fiera Internazionale del Tartufo Bianco d'Alba (90a edizione) Alba • 10 October | 8 December www.fieradeltartufo.org/

TOP 10

Below is our selection of wine cellars located in the Italian regions where fine truffles are produced, with a choice of labels usually proposed for trufflewine matching.

Piedmont La Spinetta - Barbaresco Valeirano 2016 Barbaresco DOCG Nebbiolo 100% 14.5% ABV www.la-spinetta.com

Marchesi di Grésy - Gresy Chardonnay 2018 Chardonnay Langhe DOC Chardonnay 100% 13.5% ABV www.marchesidigresy.com

Vigneti Massa – Derthona 2018 Timorasso 100% 13.5% ABV www.facebook.com/vignetimassa

Tuscany Cantine Dei – Dei 2017 Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Sangiovese 90%, Canaiolo Nero 10% 14.5% ABV www.cantinedei.it

Mastrojanni – Vigna Loreto 2015 Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Sangiovese 100% (Brunello) 15% ABV www.mastrojanni.com

EmiliaRomagna Fattoria Zerbina - Pietramora 2016 Romagna Sangiovese Riserva Marzeno DOC Sangiovese 98%, Ancellotta 2% 14.5% ABV www.zerbina.com

Mastrojanni

Bucci

Marche Umani Ronchi - CÙMARO 2015 Conero Riserva DOCG Montepulciano 100% 14.5% ABV www.umanironchi.com

Villa Bucci - Villa Bucci Riserva 2016 Verdicchio Castelli di Jesi Riserva DOCG Verdicchio 100% 13.5 % ABV www.villabucci.com

Lazio Ômina Romana –Cabernet Franc “Ars Magna” 2015 Lazio Rosso IGP Cabernet Franc 100% 14% ABV www.ominaromana.com

Tenuta di Fiorano - Fiorano Bianco 2016 Lazio IGT Grechetto 50%, Viognier 50% 14% ABV www.tenutadifiorano.it

Ômina Romana

La Spinetta

Do you like this subject? If you’re in Milan, would you like to get to know Italian wine better, having fun at the same time? Cornelia G. Hassmüller organises winetastings, wine games and tours in the surrounding area. Info and contacts: mwa@milanowineaffair.com – www.milanowineaffair.com

Shopping

WHERET R A V E L ER . CO M

A tribute to made in Italy

In the heart of Brera, the past and present of Italia Independent meet in the brand’s new Flagship Store, a homage to style Made in Italy.

BY GIULIA MINERO

Covering a surface area of 90sq.m., with a design dedicated to the showcasing of Italian excellence, the Italia Independent Flagship Store recreates the environments so dear to Lapo Elkann, Founder, President and Creative Director of the brand. To echo his words, “The new space encapsulates my creative spirit and my essence and is a kind of second home, combining our company’s past with the future of our gaze”. Inside it, elements from contemporary taste, such as the tricolour ceiling and the lighting, by Flos, serve as the setting for the new collections of sunglasses and spectacles, Laps Collection, CR7 Eyewear and Hublot Eyewear, which can also be discovered thanks to digital media. Dedicated spaces highlight the House Brands and those sold under licence, enabling customers to immerse themselves in the atmosphere of the single brand. The Laps Collection by Italia Independent, for example, expresses Lapo Elkann’s creativity in eight models with titanium frames, while the CR7 Eyewear Collection by Italia Independent, designed for Cristiano Ronaldo, combines acetate and metal elements with bright colours and a personalised logo, all so dear to the footballer’s style. The Hublot Eyewear spectacles recall the refinement that distinguishes the luxury watchmaker’s brand, thanks to a blending of classic and contemporary elements. Furthermore, the new wall of “Custom Made” lenses enables customers to choose the lenses they prefer and to combine them with the frame, thereby creating personalised glasses.

>> Via Fiori Chiari, 24. M2 Lanza. Map F3. italiaindependent.com

The Guidelines

INDEX TO ABBREVIATIONS

T: Telephone number M1, M2…: Underground lines

MAP LOCATIONS

Note that references in bold at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 62-63.

SHOPPING

This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Based on statistical evidence, the most popular luxury brands are grouped under the separate category “Top Brands”, which be found on page 29 Sevelar unusual shops, stocking items and rarities for collectors or aficionados in specific product categories, are listed under “Passion Shopping” rather than in the standard shopping sections. Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.

»TAX-FREE SHOPPING By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund.

Shopping hours are generally from 10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Milan) and on Monday mornings. Ask your Concierge.

ENTERTAINMENT

Several venues offering food are included in this section. These are considered as meeting places rather than gourmet addresses and thus explain our decision to list them here rather than under “Dining”.

DINING

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigeur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30€ or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above.

SIGHTSEEING

Several places like the Duomo, The Last Supper or the Teatro alla Scala are symbols of Milan, hence our decision to list them under a separate category.

All details are correct at the time of going to oress but several details can change: ask your concierge to double-check all information.

ACCESSORIES

Angela Caputi Giuggiù

The brand is renowned throughout the world. Sophisticated, original creations made from unusual materials such as plastic and resin, combined to create unique objects both in terms of colour and shape. Her creations have been used as accessories by famous television and film producers. The accessory as a focal point, capable of creating a look or dressing up any type of garment. A magical blend of contemporary and classical taste. A dream well worth the wearing. Open Tues-Sat 10am-1pm/2.30pm7.30pm. www.angelacaputi.com. Via Madonnina, 11.T: 02 86461080. M2 Lanza. Map F4

Borsalino

Historic Italian company synonymous with “hats” the world over. Each piece is an unrepeatable masterpiece, created with an artisan touch, the result of in-depth research that harmonizes fabrics, materials and colours. Open Mon-Tues 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Wed-Sun 10am-7pm. www.borsalino.it. Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 92. T: 02 89015436. M1-M3 Duomo. Map G4

Saragiunti

In Corso Matteotti, just a short distance from Piazza San Babila, Sara Giunti’s standalone store offers a range of handbags distinguished by clean-cut geometric shapes, Made in Italy craftsmanship and painstaking attention to the quality of materials. All Saragiunti bags feature LED lights that illuminate the interior. An ideal combination of aesthetics and practicality. www.saragiunti.it. Corso G. Matteotti, 1. T: 02 39198016. M1 San Babila. Map G4

CLOTHING - MEN & WOMEN

Aspesi

The cult brand, created in 1969 by Alberto Aspesi, features quirky, tailored lines, elegant details and natural materials. His current collections are still based on the original “nofrills” philosophy and will appeal to all those who like their outerwear without flashy labels. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.aspesi.it. Via San Pietro all'Orto, 24. T: 02 76022478. M1 San Babila. Map G4

Eddy Monetti

Eddy Monetti’s story began in Naples in 1887 and more than 130 years later it is still a family-run business. In Milan, the brand recently relocated to via San Pietro all’Orto, in the heart of the Quadrilatero della Moda. Spread over three floors, the new boutique has retained the intimate, welcoming atmosphere that distinguishes all the brand’s standalone stores. Highlights include a bar, a corner featuring a grand piano, books by Taschen, and a charming terrace on the first floor, where you can enjoy a cup of coffee accompanied by typical Neapolitan pastry. It’s the ideal setting to host the brand’s wide assortment of chic, high-end men and women’s apparel. All items are handmade and flanked by a chic, seasonal collection of leisurewear. Open Mon-Sat 10am8pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. eddymonetti.com. Via San Pietro all'Orto, 22. T: 02 76000940. M1 San Babila. Map G4

The heart of Milan in a crocodile bag

Directly inspired in shape by the Teatro alla Scala façade from one perspective and Galleria Vittorio Emanuele from the other, both behind the corner from Giòsa Milano workshop and the relative showroom in Brera: the Alyzèe handbag represents one of the latest creations conceived by master craftsman Giorgio Santamaria. Always inspired by everything surrounding him, Giorgio once attracted turns his emotions into creativity and gives birth to objects in selected crocodile leather arousing strong desire, especially from the female audience. The new women’s bag, produced according to traditional techniques, is realized in the most refined crocodile or alligator skins and it boasts a metal clasp also covered in same leather and an adjustable and removable shoulder strap. Alyzèe handbag is outlined as a must-have with durability and style suitable for everyday life and the most refined outfits. Milanese style and Italian charm in a bag thanks to Giosa Milano.

www.giosamilano.com