TURIN CITY GUIDE ®
OCTOBER 2018
Welcome to Turin
W W W.WHEREITALIA.COM/ TURIN
OUR FIRST ISSUE IN THE CITY
The world’s premier name in travel publishing arrives in Turin
ALL THE ALLURE OF PIEDMONT
Several out-of-town destinations for a fun, relaxing experience
SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS
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TORINO | Via XX Settembre 11/C (Ang.C.so Matteotti) | Tel. +39 011 531.363 | c/o Stazione Porta Nuova - Via Nizza | Tel. +39 011 562.20.17
Turin October 2018 12
30
FOCUS FOCUS
FOOD&WINE
the guide
PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
22 SHOPPING
The historic Rocca Boutique is a prestigious, luxury destination selling the world’s most desirable jewelry and watch brands
Al Bicerin
30 FOOD&WINE
8
28
HOT DATES
A temple of old-world flavours, Caffè Al Bicerin is one of Turin’s multiaward winning locales
SIGHTSEEING Officina della Scrittura
32 DINING
Discover the new Nuvola Lavazza food project and enjoy a convivial experience at the Condividere restaurant
Contents
N
IN
GROSSET O
CORSO
A short guide to the centre of Turin, featuring eighteen kilometres of covered walkways.
The best fashion designers for your high-end shopping.
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VI A DE MA I M Z Z Chiesa di San Massimo IL IN LE I
Evangelista
B. GA LL IA RI
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A Mole Antonelliana D EG LI Museo Nazionale del Cinema A
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Museo della Radio e della Televisione
IN
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Giardino Aiuola Balbo
GI US EP PE
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Statale di Musica "Giuseppe Verdi"
Tempio Valdese di Torino PR IM O
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P I A Z Z A Chiesa di Santa Cristina VI CLN A
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VI A
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TO
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CO RS O
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R
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RS
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Basilica di Maria Ausiliatrice
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PIAZZA MARIA A U S I L I AT R I C E
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V
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BARRIERA DI MILANO
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CIT TORINO
Politecnico di Torino
A
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AR
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RS
MA
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PIAZZA ADRIANO
CO
VIA VIA
EU E CIP RIN VIA O P RS SA N TA CO
CORSO
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BORGO S A N PA O LO
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S A N D O N ATO
OGR - Officine Grandi Riparazioni
O
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CO
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MA RG HE RI TA
U
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FRANCIA
EM AN UE LE
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IA
CO RS O
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S
VI TT OR IO
COR SO
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Politecnico di Torino
O
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R
SI
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C
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CO
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SAN
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CORSO
CO RS O
STRADA
R
M
SO
ASSON NDRO T
POZZO
T
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CORSO
ALESSA
PIAZZA RIVOLI
FRANCIA
CORSO
VI
S
S
O
COR
CAMPIDOGLIO
FRANCIA
CORSO
PRONDA
Langhe, Roero and Monferrato: avant-garde wineries, world-class cuisine and marvelous landscapes:
S
SERVAIS
BR
16 AUTUMN IN PIEDMONT
MA RG HE RI TA
Four starred restaurants offering a triumph of flavours, aromas and untold creativity. PA R E L L A
BO TT IC EL LI
» MAP PAGES 46-47
R
VIA
RE GI NA
O
RESTAURANTS
FRANCIA
FRANCIA
CO RS O
R I PA R I A
PIAZZA GENERALE ANTONIO BALDISSERA
M O R TA R A
CORSO
CORSO
The city’s royal residences are among some of the best examples of 17th and 18th European architecture.
MA RG HE RI TA
33 MICHELIN-STARRED D O R A
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Only a few years ago, it would have been difficult to imagine Turin as an international tourist destination. Then, suddenly, the city reawakened, and visitors began to spread the word saying, ‘In Italy, in addition to Rome, Venice, Florence and Milan, there’s a city Andrea Jarach distinguished by the dignified elegance of its Publisher Where ® Italia architecture, an Italian FLORENCE CITY GUIDE Paris, boasting a noble, glorious past and a present infused with revolutionary technology.’ As part of its mission to provide information, Where® decided to Who was Venus? include Turin in its portfolio of MILAN CITY GU IDE must-visit destinations, using the classic format and distribution ALL YO CAN D U IN THE O method that has made Where® CITY a leader in Visitor Publishing both in Italy and throughout the world. If you’re reading this magazine, then you’re a guest at one of the best hotels in Turin. The reliable information found in Where® will ensure that you get a wonderful sightseeing experience during your stay in this amazing city. And, for more information, visit www.whereitalia.com.
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MOLE ANTONELLIANA A landmark building of Turin since 1889, it was purchased by the municipality who decided to make it a monument to Italian unification. Standing at a height of 167.5m, at the time of its construction it was the highest brick building in Europe. Built in an eclectic style, the Mole has a squat square base topped by a large dome with a spire. You can ascend to the panoramic observation platform either by elevator or on foot by climbing its 573 steps. Since 2000, it has hosted the National Museum of Cinema. 1 MUSEO EGIZIO Founded in 1824, Turin’s Egyptian Museum is the oldest Egyptian museum in the world and the second in terms of the value and quality of its treasures outside of Cairo. In 2006, during Turin’s Winter Olympics, the museum was re-modelled by Oscar-winning set designer Dante Ferretti. It houses more than 37,000 6 W H E R E T U R I N I O C TO B E R 2018
artifacts, from the Paleolithic to the Coptic era. The archaeologist and Egyptologist JeanFrançois Champollion once said: ‘the road to Memphis and Thebes passes through Turin’. 2
headquarters of the first Subalpine Senate. Its name refers to ‘Madame Royale’ Christine of France, who took up residence here in 1600. The view of the city from the Panoramic Tower is spectacular. 4
MUSEI REALI The residence of the Savoys until 1865, it is now owned by the Italian government. The museum tour comprises a 3km route spread over 30,000 sq.m. and 7 hectares of Royal Gardens. In 1563, Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy moved the capital of the duchy from Chambéry to Turin, marking the beginning of a major urban transformation and the enrichment of the dynastic collections, which now include artifacts from the prehistoric era to the present time. 3
PARCO DEL VALENTINO Located on the banks of the Po River, and spread over 550,000 sq.m., this is the city’s most popular park. Its interior houses numerous treasures including the Castello del Valentino, a UNESCO world heritage site and a part of the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont, the Medieval Village and Castle, and the Botanical Gardens (1729). 5
PALAZZO MADAMA Situated in the centre of piazza Castello, it has always been a reference point in the city, from Roman times to 1848, when it became the
VILLA DELLA REGINA The summer country residence of the House of Savoy, it was built at the beginning of the 17th century as a court vineyard. It became known as Villa della Regina (literally the Queen’s Villa) when
MORE AT PAGE 40 MAP PAGES 46-47 factory (now FCA), still symbolizes the wealth of the city. Reconverted by Renzo Piano in the 1980s, it hosts events and the famous rooftop test track. The old Carpano plants, lying adjacent to the Lingotto complex, are now occupied by ‘Eataly’s’ vast food market. 10
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MUSEO NAZIONALE DELL’AUTOMOBILE The Car Museum (MAUTO) was opened in 1960 and is one of the oldest car museums in the world. The semi-circular building overlooking the River Po acts as a prelude to the three floors of the collection featuring a spectacular layout designed by François Confinio, who also designed the exhibition space of the Museum of Cinema. 11 14
ALLIANZ JUVENTUS STADIUM Designed to host up to 41,507 spectators, this is the sixth largest stadium in Italy. It is owned by the Juventus Football Club whose home matches have been played here since 2011. An architectural symbol, it is one of the most avantgarde facilities in the world. The J-Museum, the official football museum of the ‘bianconero’ team is hosted inside the stadium. 12 BASILICA DI SUPERGA Situated on the hills surrounding Turin, it offers a breathtaking view. It was built as a thanksgiving to the Virgin Mary for Turin’s deliverance from the French siege (1706) and designed by Filippo Juvarra. One of the most picturesque ways of accessing it is by the Rack Tramway, which rattles the 3km up the hillside. 13
King Vittorio Amedeo II gifted it to his future bride in 1714. Don’t miss a visit to this magnificent residence, distinguished by the remains of its original 18th century decorations and furnishings, and its Italianate gardens. Villa della Regina is a part of the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont, a UNESCO world heritage site. 6 TEATRO REGIO The Regio is one of the most important Italian theatres on the European scene, offering an action-packed program of opera and ballet. It was designed by Filippo Juvarra and inaugurated in 1740. Destroyed by a fire in 1936, and rebuilt in 1973 by Turinese architect Carlo Mollino, the only part of the original building that still remains is its façade, now a UNESCO world heritage site. Its unusual gate, named ‘Odissea Musicale’ (Musical Odyssey) is by Umberto Mastroianni. 7
VIA PO PROMENADE A stroll beneath the typical Torinese porticoes in via Po, packed with shops and cafés, is an absolute must. From here, you can access Piazza Vittorio Veneto, the largest square in the city. The square ends at the Vittorio Emanuele I bridge, which connects it to the square of the church of the Gran Madre di Dio (1830), renowned for its imposing pantheon-like shape. 8 PIAZZA SAN CARLO Also known as ‘the drawing room’ of the city, it was commissioned by Marie Christine of France in true Parisian style with seemingly endless porticoes housing fashion boutiques, and an equestrian statue - the ‘Caval d’Brons’ – of Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy at its centre. 9 LINGOTTO This complex of buildings built in 1916, based on a project by Matté Trucco to house the FIAT
REGGIA DI VENARIA Located inside the Park of La Mandria, this is a Baroque-style complex built in the mid-17th century as a glorified hunting lodge for Carlo Emanuele II. Particularly worthy of note are the Grand Gallery, the Chapel of St. Hubert, the Galleria di Diana, the 18th century Scuderie Juvarrine and the Citroniera, now used to host events. It is a part of the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont. 14 PALAZZINA DI CACCIA DI STUPINIGI Built in Baroque style in 1729, and only 10km from Piazza Castello, with its French garden, Stupinigi was the royal family’s favourite place for celebrations and events. At the beginning of the 20th century, Queen Margherita of Savoy took up permanent residence here. In 1919, Stupinigi became the headquarters of the Furniture Museum. It is a part of the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont, a UNESCO world heritage site. 15 w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 7
WHERE NOW | HOT DATES
OCTOBER
PHOTO © SIMONE ARENA
Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating Italian traditions, art and music or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates.
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OCTOBER FESTIVAL
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THE PARADISE OF TECHNO The European ‘cousin’ of the legendary Detroit Electronic Music Festival (DEMF), for thirteen years the Movement Torino Music Festival has brought the greats of Techno and House music to the heart of Turin. Festival highlights include all-night parties at Lingotto Fiere, events, workshops and disco nights across the city. Movement Torino is the largest indoor dance event in Italy featuring a stacked lineup of the genre’s biggest names. On stage, several of the world’s most revered contemporary electronic artists, plus dozens of DJs from the international dance and Techno scene will take turns to perform at the festival’s two main shows, during an action-packed week of fringe events hosted at several of the city’s coolest venues. Movement Torino Music Festival 2018 Day 1 and Day 2: from 8pm to 5am Lingotto Fiere. Via Nizza, 294 www.movement.it
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FROM MASS MEDIA TO WORKS OF ART ▲ Pop Art, a visual movement that exploded in the Sixties, was a global phenomenon that revolutionized the concept of artistic creation, adopting the same models as those of mass media to create art works. Photography was a key working tool for Pop artists, including Andy Warhol. The Turin exhibition features more than 120 works including paintings, photographs, collages and graphic art by Pop artists and photographers like Ugo Mulas and Tony Evans, the renowned photographer of ‘Swinging London’.
CAMERA POP. Photography in the Pop Art of Warhol, Schifano & Co CAMERA - Centro Italiano per la Fotografia. Via delle Rosine, 18 . www.camera.to
EXHIBITION
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REVOLUTIONIZING ITALIAN ART
◄ The exhibition at GAM explores the background history, birth and successful debut of Macchiaoli OCTOBER MARCH painting. The experimentation 2018 2019 conducted by this group of Italian artists marked a crucial stage in the renewal of late 19th century figurative languages, involving a search for a new path towards modernity. For the first time, the 80 works featured in the exhibition highlight GAM’s prestigious collection, with loans from major Italian museums, institutions and private collections.
© ISTITUTO MATTEUCCI
The Macchiaioli. Italian art moves towards modernity GAM - Galleria Civica d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea Via Magenta, 31. www.gamtorino.it
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OCTOBER REOPENING
TOUR THE RENAISSANCE OF A MASTERPIECE ◄ One of Turin’s most precious masterpieces has finally re-opened its doors to the public. After a long and complex restoration, the Chapel of the Holy Shroud, which was destroyed by a devastating fire OCTOBER on 11 April 1997, has re-opened to the public. This marvel of Baroque architecture, designed by Guarino Guarini, and listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1997, is now accessible to visitors. Following the special opening during the last weekend of September, from 2 October the chapel will become an integral part of the tour of the Royal Museums of Turin, with access included in the ticket. To mark the re-opening, Palazzo Madama is showcasing an exhibition titled ‘The Shroud and its Image’ (28 September 2018-21 January 2019).
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▼ Known as the ‘Magic City’, Turin has long been associated with magic and the occult. According to legend, numerous parts of the Piedmontese capital, highlighted by esoteric, masonic symbols, are infused with a mysterious energy. An evening tour offers visitors a chance to scout out several of the city’s most unusual landmarks, from Palazzo del Diavolo to the Church of Gran Madre, sites associated with the occult, but also the more reassuring world of faith and white magic.
OCTOBER
Torino Magica® Tour Every Thurs and Sat, from 9pm to 11.30pm. By appointment in Italian, English, French, Japanese, Russian, Deutsche and Spanish.
Chapel of the Holy Shroud Musei Reali di Torino. Piazzetta Reale, 1. www.museireali.beniculturali.it PHOTO © FLORA FOTO
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A GRAND BALL AT THE COURT ◄ An umissable opportunity to step back in time and experience the old-world opulence of the sumptuous Reggia di Venaria. The Nuit Royale, a fabulous court ball in period costume, is set against the dazzling background of the Savoy residence, on the outskirts of Turin. The program includes an aperitivo and a ‘Grand Ball’ in the Galleria Grande, 18th century court dances in the church of Sant’Uberto with live classical music, a royal dinner in the Sala di Diana, dance performances, acrobatic shows, historical re-enactments, theatre groups and a DJ set. Dress code: wearing an 18th century costume is compulsory.
Nuit Royale 2018 From 8pm Reggia di Venaria Reale. Piazza della Repubblica, 4. www.nuitroyale.com w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 11
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WHERE NOW | FOCUS
Strolling under t he porticoes Via Roma
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Elena Binda Lifestyle Editor Where ® Italia
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f you love princesses, royal weddings and romantic stories, you’ll enjoy the fact that many years ago this city was built to ensure that its queen could stroll through the centre without getting her head wet. If you’re a fan of figures and statistics, you’ll be interested to know that this city boasts 18 kilometres of porticoes, 12.5km of which are interconnected to form one of the largest and most convenient pedestrian areas in Europe. And, above all, if you’re an aficionado of architecture and the history of art, you’ll have a chance to admire the magnificent variety and prestige of Turin’s porticoes, true masterpieces of city planning. The result, from a certain point onwards, of careful planning, the porticoes were conceived with the aim of creating a vast, uniform effect. Turin’s porticoes have given it the nickname of a ‘drawing room city’ because, whatever the weather, you can stroll, stop for a chat, drink a cup of coffee, choose an item of jewelry or try on a dress, as if you were in a drawing room, while sheltered by its colonnades. In addition, they are renowned for their striking beauty – from the grey stone of via Po to the marble of via Roma, Turin’s porticoes are one of the world’s greatest architectural, aesthetic and socio-economic wonders.
The centre of Turin is a ‘drawing room’ featuring eighteen kilometers of covered walkways. Here is a short guide that will help you to enjoy a fascinating blend of history and interesting facts amidst historic cafés and captivating shops. BY ELENA BINDA
A LITTLE HISTORY Although Turin has known the portico since Medieval times - a first nucleus existed in the old piazza delle Erbe – it was only at the beginning of the 17th century that the portico became a hallmark feature of the city. On 16 June 1606, a government ordinance established the building of the porticoes in piazza Castello, entrusting the project to architect Ascanio Vitozzi. The section earmarked for construction of the porticoes included the area between via Barbaroux and via Palazzo di Città, and was completed in 1615. The ordinance was signed by Charles Emanuel I of Savoy, the Prince of Piedmont and a member of the dynasty, under which, the Kingdom of Italy would be unified, two and a half centuries later. His aim was to embellish his ‘capital’ and to protect the royal family, in particular the queen, from downpours while travelling between palaces. The initiative was immediately embraced by numerous shop owners in the centre, who realized that their customers, would now, like the royal family, be able to admire their window displays, while sheltering from the elements. The number of porticoes thus began to increase, and with them cafés and shops, entrances to theatres, and later, cinemas, multiplied in this increasingly typical and recognizable structure which decorated the sides of the streets and the edges of squares with colonnades and galleries. The second part, designed and enhanced by porticoes, was piazza San Carlo (1630-1650), while Filippo Juvarra built the porticoes in the districts of Porta Susina and in the small square of the market of Porta Palazzo. In 1756, new porticoes were erected in piazza Palazzo di Città. In the 19th century porticoes were added in piazza Vittorio Emanuele I (now Piazza Vittorio Veneto), then in piazza Carlo Felice, and lastly in piazza Statuto, forming a belt which still surrounds the centre, between the Po river and the old bastions. The porticoes of corso Vittorio Emanuele II and corso Vinzaglio, via Sacchi, via Nizza, via Roma, via Cernaia and via Pietro Micca completed the pedestrian ring, connecting the central w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 13
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Piazza San Carlo railway station of Porta Nuova to that of Porta Susa. Nowadays, Turin’s porticoes act as an intersection between public and private life; areas under which the Torinese stroll amidst decorated ceilings, ancient shop signs and the massive portals of palaces. DINING AND SHOPPING UNDER THE PORTICOES A stroll through the centre of Turin is a truly delightful experience, not only because of its architecture. Above all, it will allow you to get into the spirit of the city. Although traditional window displays, edged with black and gold, in the shadow of the colonnade, give many of the locales an austere, old-world appearance, when you cross their thresholds, you’ll find several contemporary treasures. For a relaxing break, head to one of the area’s many historic cafés, like Florio, established in 1780 in via Po (www.caffefiorio.it). It is said that every morning, before starting his audiences, the King used to ask his councilors: “What is being said at Florio?”, which was a well-known meeting place of conservative intellectuals. In the same street, Caffé Abrate, the ‘official supplier’ of breakfast to the Scuola Regia di Cavalleria, was patronized by an illustrious roster of artists from the nearby Teatro Regio, including Puccini, Rossini and Tamagno. Other must-visit locales in piazza Castello include the Caffè Baratti e Milano (www.barattiemilano.it), an art nouveau jewel, designed by architect Casanova, and the Mulassano (www.caffemulassano.com), where, in 1926, Angela Demichelis Nebiolo 14 W H E R E T U R I N I O C TO B E R 2018
Caffè Platti invented the ‘sandwich’, a fact noted by a plaque in the locale. Make sure to try the version with truffles - now is the perfect season! Beneath the arcades in piazza San Carlo, the opulent decor of Confetteria Stratta (www.stratta1836.it) reminds visitors of its storied past as the historic supplier of pastries to the House of Savoy, while, from 1822 onwards, Caffè San Carlo, a venue with an outdoor area, was the meeting place of patriotic reformists, causing it to be closed down several times due to ‘suspected subversive activity’. In piazza Carignano, next to the Carignano theatre, you’ll find several other historical establishments including Gelateria Pepino (www.gelatipepino.it). Established in 1884, it was here that the ‘pinguino’, the famous chocolatecovered ice cream on a stick was invented. In the 20th century, Il Platti in corso Vittorio Emanuele II (www.platti.it) was the favourite haunt of Turin’s ruling class, including the founders and managers of Fiat and Lavazza, and the publisher Luigi Einaudi, who regularly met here with novelist Cesare Pavesi. When it comes to shopping, you’ll be spoilt for choice! Turin’s arcades boast among the highest density of shops in the world, there’s one every 75 square metres. The city’s twelve, unbroken kilometers of arcades host approximately one thousand shops, for a total of 2,250 window displays. The list includes the standalone boutiques of some of the world’s most prestigious brands, multi-brand clothing stores, small vintage gems, perfumeries, bookstores and more (see listings).
PORTICOES OF PAPER AND LIGHT The myriad events that take place beneath the colonnades are proof of the symbolic and practical importance of the city’s porticoes in the lives of the Torinese. One of the most popular is Portici di Carta (porticidicarta.it). Held annually in October, this event sees the gathering of dozens of independent booksellers in an area that for a few days, becomes the ‘world’s longest bookstore’ . With an attendance of 128 booksellers and publishers, 2.5km of stalls, 40 events and thousands of books that are either purchased or donated, on a yearly basis, to the city’s public libraries, this fest of literature is not a once-off initiative in Turin. In fact, the city boasts a strong, age-old relationship with books. It hosts an important International Book Fair; it’s one of the most important cradles of Italian publishing; it’s home to a renowned school of writing and it’s the birthplace of several of Italy’s most famous authors. If you happen to be in Turin during the event, check out the program to see what appeals to you most. Highlights include events for children, meetings with authors and literary tours to discover the places dear to people like Primo Levi, Edmondo De Amicis, Guido Gozzano, Natalia Ginzburg and, interestingly, Jean Jacques Rousseau and Erasmus of Rotterdam. Lastly, look up, because, on 26 October, when the evenings become longer and darker, it’s time for Luci d’Artista, a spectacular event midway between a light festival and a contemporary art installation, that lights up the city with art works, from October to January.
WHERE NOW | AROUND THE CORNER
The Regge Sabaude In addition to offering an overview of olden-day court life, the Regge Sabaude testifys to the modern history of Piedmont and Italy. BY GIULIA MINERO
REGGIA DI VENARIA REALE Located inside the Park of La Mandria, in the historic centre of the town of Venaria, the Reggia di Venaria Reale is a Baroque-style complex built in the mid-17th century as a glorified hunting lodge for Carlo Emanuele II. Its present-day appearance is the result of work by several prominent architects of the era, including Amedeo di Castellamonte, Michelangelo Garove and lastly Filippo Juvarra, who designed many of its most beautiful
Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi
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he royal residences are easily accessible by bus or car from Turin, and are among some of the best-preserved examples of 17th and 18th century European architecture. They are a living testimony to the prestige of the local monarchy, the Savoy family, the first kings of unified Italy. In addition to Castello del Valentino and Villa della Regina (see Top in Town), the favourite citybased residences of duchesses and princesses, and the fortress of Castello di Moncalieri, the Regge Sabaude complex, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1997, includes hunting lodges and country residences, embellished with gardens that reflect the sophistication of courtly life.
Reggia di Venaria Reale and widely photographed spaces, including the Grand Gallery, the Chapel of Saint Hubert and the imposing 18th-century complexes of the Juvarra Stables and the Citroniera (Orangerie), now used to host exhibitions and events. Inside the Reggia di Venaria Reale, multimedia installations enable visitors to reconstruct the history of court life, while the apartments of King Vittorio Emanuele II of Savoy and his wife Rosa Vercellana, remodelled in the adjacent Castello della Mandria, are open for public viewing, as is the room hosting the collection of royal jewels. On the last floor of the palace, above the monumental corridor known as the Galleria di Diana, discerning diners can enjoy a delightful meal at the Dolce Stil Novo alla Reggia, the Reggia’s Michelin-starred restaurant. www.lavenaria.it
PALAZZINA DI CACCIA DI STUPINIGI Stupinigi was built in Baroque style in 1729, and is only 10km as the crow flies from Piazza Castello. In addition to being used for long hunting expeditions in the company of members of the local aristocracy, Stupinigi was often chosen by members of the Savoy household for celebrations and dynastic weddings. At the beginning of the 20th century, Queen Margherita of Savoy took up permanent residence here. In 1919, Stupinigi became the headquarters of the Furniture Museum, and a space for events and concerts. In addition to its original furnishings and paintings, the museum hosts several masterpieces of cabinetry. The lodge’s beautifully manicured French gardens and internal spaces are open for public viewing, while its historic park, a part of the hunting reserve, is closed to the public www.ordinemauriziano.it CASTELLO DI RIVOLI Established as a military fortress in 1247, the Rivoli Castle was the first residence of the Savoy duchy. During the 17th century, it was converted into an aristocratic residence, and enlarged with the addition of a wing known as the Manica Lunga, with the ducal picture gallery. Its imposing spaces are now the headquarters of a Museum of Contemporary Art, which also hosts temporary exhibitions. The courtyard of the castle is also home to Combal.Zero, a contemporary starred restaurant whose panoramic glass walls offer glorious views across the countryside as well as the surrounding castle. www.castellodirivoli.org w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 15
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Autumn in Piedmont Avant-garde wineries, a legacy of world-class cuisine and marvelous landscapes. All of these things have earned the areas of the Langhe, Roero and Monferrato UNESCO World Heritage status, resulting in an elite tourist destination. By Chiara Zaccarelli Chiara Zaccarelli Travel Editor Where ® Italia
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his is UNESCO’s official reason for adding the wine-growing regions of the LangheRoero and Monferrato to its world heritage list in 2014. “An exceptional living testimony to the historical tradition of grape growing and winemaking processes, of a social context, and a rural economy based on viticulture. The vineyards of the Langhe-Roero and Monferrato are an outstanding example of man’s interaction with his natural surroundings.” This area is protected as a ‘cultural heritage’ which is symbolic, because man has managed to shape it, giving it the unique characteristics that it boasts today. In this area, the vineyards of several of the world’s most famous wines, including Barolo, Barbaresco, Asti Spumante and Barbera, stretch as far as the eye can see, in a display
The Langhe’s rolling hills
of changing colours and softly rolling hills. Although geographically the Langhe, Roero and Monferrato are neighbouring regions, they all have different morphologies, and cultural characteristics. If you’re lucky enough to visit them in autumn, you’ll be able to enjoy their numerous offerings. The region’s varied landscape provides fertile soil for an impressive array of local specialties: from superlative wine, to the prized white truffles of Alba, porcini mushrooms and IGP hazelnuts. Located just an hour’s drive from Turin, these regions can be accessed by car (several of the larger centres can also be reached by train). Other options include one of the many organized wine and tasting tours on offer. Ask your concierge. THE LANGHE The Langhe are situated between the Tanaro River and Liguria, between the provinces of
PHOTOS © SHUTTERSTOCK
The Castle of Serralunga d’Alba Asti and Cuneo. Particularly noteworthy among the area’s many tourist attractions are its numerous castles, including that of Grinzane Cavour. Built in the 13th century and currently home to the headquarters of the ‘Cavour Regional Enoteca’, the castle, in addition to stocking several of the region’s finest Doc and Docg wines, also hosts the interesting Langhe Museum (www.castellogrinzane.com). Other must-sees include the Castle of Barolo and its surrounding town, which gives its name to
the most famous Italian red wine and is thought to date back to mediaeval times. The town is home to WiMu, a unique wine museum that takes visitors on an immersive journey through the history of viticulture via light, film and installations. The museum is set over three floors of the village’s stunning medieval castle, and the tour includes a visit to the building’s panoramic terrace and its ancient wine cellars (www.wimubarolo.it). After visiting the museum in Barolo, stop in the village of La Morra, better
known as ‘the terrace of the Langhe’ thanks to its spectacular views, and head to Massimo Camia’s starred restaurant for a fabulous gourmet meal (www.massimocamia.it). In addition to other specialties, the area is renowned for its famous three-lobed hazelnut, boasting ‘Protected Geographical Indication’ status and used to make various sweet treats. If you want to purchase these tantalizing specialties and see how they’re made, visit Giovanni Cogno’s artisanal workshop (www.giovannicogno.it).
Where Nutella was born Everyone knows Nutella – the world’s best-loved chocolate spread - but not everyone knows that it was invented in Alba in the Piedmont region. Because chocolate was rationed after the end of World War II, a pastry chef from Alba named Pietro Ferrero had the ingenious idea of creating a sweet paste made with hazelnuts (which were plentiful in the region), sugar and the little chocolate powder that was available. Ferrero’s creation began life as a solid block called pasta gianduja, which could be sliced and served on bread. A few years later, it was transformed into a creamy, spreadable treat called SuperCrema, the forerunner of our Nutella. It was only in 1963 that Michele Ferrero, Pietro’s son, coined the word Nutella (a combination of the English word ‘nut’ and the Latina suffix for sweet - ‘ella’). The first, universally recognizable glass jar with the white lid, which has remained unchanged to this day, was produced by Ferrero in 1964 and immediately became an instant hit worldwide. And in just a few years, Nutella had become an iconic food, loved by millions of consumers across the globe and celebrated in numerous books, films and TV series. www.ferrero.it/nutella
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An old underground “infernot”
Lastly, an absolute ‘must’ for lovers of medieval history and architecture is a visit to the Castle of Serralunga d’Alba, a beautifully preserved Gothic stronghold (www.castellodiserralunga.it). After the long walk up to the castle, take a break and treat yourself to a delicious gourmet meal at the Da Guido restaurant located in the nature reserve of Fontanafredda (www.guidoristorante.it). MONFERRATO Stretching southwards, as far as the foot of the Ligurian Appenines, the Monferrato area occupies a fertile tract of terrain between the provinces of Alessandria and Asti. In addition to numerous historic, cultural and outdoor activities, Monferrato is renowned for its gastronomic specialties. Nature, culture, art and religion combine in a walk that takes visitors on a journey to discover the Nature Park of the Sacro Monte di Crea, in the province
Castle of Monticello 18 W H E R E T U R I N I O C TO B E R 2018
PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK
PHOTO © CELORIA ILENIO
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The Fontanafredda cellars
of Alessandria, a real feat of architectural design that encompasses Mount Crea and its sanctuary, which in turn, is a UNESCO World Heritage site. If you prefer a historical visit to an excursion, don’t miss the Eco Museum of ‘Pietra da Cantone’ – a type of sandstone only found in this area – in Cella Monte. In addition to informing visitors about the history, landscapes and art of Monferrato, the museum also organizes initiatives and events targeted at highlighting the historical characteristics of the place. For some years now, the museum has undertaken the arduous but worthwhile task of taking an inventory of the ‘infernot’ in the area. ’Infernot’ are dark, airless underground spaces, carved out in stone, located beneath houses and cellars that, in some instances, are real underground tunnels. These works of arts, carved and modeled by artists, were either used to store bottles of wine, or as pantries, because the temperature inside them remains constant. Several of these old ‘infernot’ are open for public viewing, especially during the ‘vendemmia’ (grape harvest) or on special occasions (www.ecomuseopietracantoni.it). If you feel like sampling some wine, you’ll be spoilt for choice. Although the majority of local wines are red and full-bodied, like Barbera, Grignolino and Freisa, you’ll also find a good selection of whites, including Moscato. An absolute ‘must’ for wine connoisseurs visiting the area is the Enoteca Regionale di Vignale Monferrato. Located in a magnificent 17th century ‘palazzo’, the Enoteca is a great place to taste and purchase some of the area’s best local wines (www.enotecadelmonferrato.it). ROERO Roero is situated in the northeastern part of the province of Cuneo, to the left of the
Tanaro river. Like the neighbouring Langhe, this area is renowned for its enogastronomic and cultural offerings. Among its castles, the Castle of Govone is particularly noteworthy. The castle is located in the province of Cuneo and was formerly one of the royal residences of the House of Savoy (www.castellorealedigovone.it). Located just a short distance from Alba, the Castle of Monticello is one of the most imposing and best-preserved medieval buildings in the area owing to the fact that since 1372 it has been owned and inhabited by the Roero family of Monticello (www.roerodimonticello.it). There’s nothing that says ‘royal highness’ more than a castle. Experience what it feels like to be a prince or princess for one night and stay at the Castle of Guarene, an important stopover on the Piedmontese Baroque itinerary which also hosts a hotel belonging to the Relais&Châteaux chain (www.castellodiguarene.com). For real foodies, an absolute must is the famous sausage of Bra, a delectable product made from lean beef and bacon. Since it requires hardly any ageing, it’s eaten fresh year-round and traditionally served raw, usually as an antipasto, or cooked in a sauce that is used to dress ‘tajarin’ (typically fresh Piedmontese pasta) or polenta (www.salsicciadibra.it). Only a few kilometers from Bra, a trip to the architectural complex of the Agenzia di Pollenzo is well worth your time. Built in 1833, as a country residence for the House of Savoy, it now hosts the first University of Gastronomic Sciences in the world. This university was founded and promoted by the international Slow Food association, which studies, protects and disseminates the agricultural and enogastromic traditions of countries worldwide (www.agenziadipollenzo.com).
Alba’s International White Truffle Fair
Alba, Piazza Risorgimento
The truffle is a tuber-shaped fungus that grows underground. Although different varieties exist, due to the fact that it is particularly sensitive to environmental and climate changes and pollution, the white truffle of Alba – a rare, uncultivable species – is one of the world’s most highly prized fungi. A real subterranean gem, it is generally eaten raw and shaved over starters such as tagliolini, risottos, fried or poached eggs, and beef tartare. By C.Z.
From 6 October to 25 November, this Piedmontese city hosts Alba’s International White Truffle Fair, a key event on the tourist/culinary calendar of the Langhe, Roero and Monferrato now celebrating its 88th edition. Featuring a combination of culture, terroir, sensory and gastronomic experiences, this year’s event is dedicated to the relationship between the earth and the moon. More than just a conventional fair, the event’s strength lies in its ability to offer visitors an action-packed program of cooking demos, performances, experiential tours and artthemed events. The main draw of the fair is the Mercato Mondiale del Tartufo Bianco d’Alba (the Alba White Truffle Market) where, on Saturdays and Sundays (with special openings on 1 and 2 November), visitors can purchase this precious tuber whose authenticity is guaranteed by the National Truffle Study Center. In addition to the above, one of the events most eagerly awaited by visitors is the Alba Truffle Show, an event dedicated to cooking demos, the sensory analysis of truffles, wine tasting experiences and Foodies Moments, featuring different interpretations of Alba’s white truffle by
starred Italian chefs. Piazza Risorgimento is transformed into a ‘Salotto dei Gusti e dei Profumi’, a permanent exhibition that celebrates the finest culinary offerings of Piedmont and Italy with tastings and educational workshops. The marriage between gastronomy, art, music and design is translated into numerous fringe events, including the presentation of ‘Alba’s White Truffle Glove’, whose design was created by Patricia Urquiola and the ‘Lynn Davis, Patti Smith: a collaboration’, an interesting exhibition combining photographs by American photographer Lynn Davis, and poetry by singer/poet Patti Smith, hosted in Alba’s Coro della Maddalena. From 27 October to 25 February 2019, visitors to the Fondazione Ferrero can admire a collective exhibition titled ‘From Nothingness to Dreams. Dada and Surrealism from the Collection of the Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen’ featuring famous works by Magritte, Dalí and Max Ernst. On the other hand, between October and November, Alba’s Church of San Giuseppe will host ‘Milleunanota Jazz&Co. 2018’, a captivating program of jazz and contemporary music (www.fieradeltartufo.org).
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[ D A I LY T O U R S ]
Fashion outlets Not far from Turin, in Piedmont, don’t miss a trip to these shopping destinations offering discounts all year-round.
LUGANO MENDRISIO
Vicolungo The Style Outlets
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Torino Outlet Village
TORINO Mondovicino Outlet Village
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TORINO OUTLET VILLAGE Open on March 2017, Torino Outlet Village is an elegant and relaxing place to spend a day’s shopping, thanks also to top-end restaurants and services for families. Open 7 days a week, 10am-8pm (Sat, Sun and festivities 10am-9pm). • WHERE: at just 15 minutes from the centre of Turin, 30 minutes from the main cities in Piedmont and 75 minutes from Milan, near the exits from the A4 and A5 motorways, the Outlet is easy to reach at Settimo Torinese. Daily shuttle bus service from the city centre and a weekly service from the main tourist resorts in Piedmont and Valle d’Aosta. • WHAT: a must for all shopping lovers, Torino Outlet Village offers 90 stores (Armani, Coach, Gucci, La Perla, Michael Kors, Guess, Timberland, Tommy Hilfiger and more) specializing in clothing, accessories and footwear, household articles, sport and personal care under top Italian and international labels, and with discounts of up to 70% all year-round. www.torinooutletvillage.com
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VICOLUNGO THE STYLE OUTLETS Situated 40 minutes from Turin, in the province of Novara, this is the ideal place to spend an exciting day’s tour where shopping, entertainment and relaxation combine to satisfy all desires. Open 7 days a week from 10 am to 8 pm. • WHERE: take the A4 Torino-Milano motorway and exit at Biandrate Vicolungo. CORSICA Daily shuttle service is available from Milan. Departure from Turin - Piazza Carlo Felice, 63 (in front of Porta Nuova train station) at 10am. For information and reservation: 02 867131 www.zaniviaggi.it. • WHAT: 150 prestigious designer stores – including Armani, Missoni, Trussardi, Tommy Hilfiger, Cavalli, Calvin Klein and Twin Set – offering clothing for the whole family, sportswear, homeware and beauty products at discounted prices of up to 70% all year round. • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: Vicolungo The Style Outlets also hosts art exhibitions, events and other initiatives for a enjoyable day’s outing. www.thestyleoutlets.it
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MONDOVICINO SIENA OUTLET VILLAGE Situated 1 hour from Turin, in the province of Cuneo, Mondovicino Outlet Village offers a PERUGIA unique shopping experience combining the appeal of the fashion brands with the beauties of the environment (between the Langhe in Piedmont and the Ligurian coast). Open 7 days a week from 10 am to 8 pm. • WHERE: take the A6 Torino-Savona motorway and exit at Mondovì. Free shuttle service is available from Turin, departure from Turin (Corso Vittorio Emanuele II corner of ROMA via Sacchi) at 9.15am, return at 4.50pm from Mondovicino Outlet Village to Turin. For information and reservation: 011 19704670 www.zalunviaggi.com. • WHAT: over 80 prestigious designer stores – including Alviero Martini 1a Classe, Enrico Coveri, Elena Mirò, Fratelli Rossetti, Calvin Klein, Kappa, Liu.Jo and Ungaro – offering clothing for men, women and children, sportswear, homeware and beauty products at discounted prices of up to 70% all year round. www.mondovicino.it
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ROLEX ► The Datejust is the modern archetype of the classic watch, thanks to aesthetics and functions that transcend changes in fashion. The new generation ‘Oyster Perpetual Datejust 36’ also comes in the Roselor Everose version and is available with a large selection of dials. Technical characteristics include an Oystersteel and 18 ct Everose gold case, a 36mm diameter, a white dial and Roman numerals. www.rolex.com
Take advantage of a stroll through Turin to treat yourself to an accessory, a fragrance, a jewellery item or some other alluring stylish detail. Where ® brings you the pick of the best seasonal trends and guarantees that you won’t leave empty-handed!
◄ BRUNELLO CUCINELLI The Brunello Cucinelli world of sneakers has been enriched with a new leather model featuring a balanced combination of materials, to create a sophisticated contrast of textures. One of the numerous accessories crafted in the town of Solomeo in the heart of Umbria and produced in Italy, according to the words of Cucinelli “with respect for people, the dignity of work and in harmony with the land”. www.brunellocucinelli.com
Giulia Minero Lifestyle & News Editor Where ® Italia
▲ TURIN EYES In Turin, in via Mazzini, there’s a shop dedicated exclusively to the production of high-quality, bespoke eyewear. The store’s artisanal workshop creates all types of frames (square, round, elongated or patterned) interpreted in a wide range of designs, colours and materials. www.turineyes.it
GUIDO GOBINO ► A ‘must’ from the ‘Guido Gobino Selection’ of products created using only the finest ingredients. The Gianduja Chocolate and Cocoa spreads contain 45% IGP Piedmont hazelnuts from the Langhe hills, with the sole addition of precious hazelnut oils and cocoa butter. guidogobino.it
◄ CULTI HOUSE TORINO ‘Black Tux’ is the new eau de parfum, created exclusively for the Culti Houses. A harmonious fragrance, featuring heady notes of incense and black pepper that blend seductively with hints of vanilla and amber. In addition to Milan, Naples, Bari and Forte dei Marmi, Turin is one of the cities chosen by Culti Milano as an Italian brand ambassador. www.culti.com
◄ TERRE DEL BAROLO One of the world’s most unique wines, Barolo Chinato epitomizes the essence of Italy. Aromatized with a bitter-sweet taste, it’s used as a dessert or meditation wine. Its aromatic persistence pairs perfectly with dark chocolate. Located in the province of Cuneo, the Terre del Barolo winery has become a reference point for wine connoisseurs. terredelbarolo.com w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 21
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Rocca espouses Turin In addition to the world’s most coveted jewelry and watch brands, the Rocca Boutique also houses the Bridal Collection for those looking to pop the big question. By Elena Binda
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ast Christmas, Turin received an unexpected gift. The historic Rocca Boutique, a prestigious, luxury destination and the only retailer in the city selling the world’s most desirable jewelry and watch brands, reopened its doors to the public. It comprises two floors, four hundred square metres, nine brightly-lit shop windows and top name brands, including Damiani, Rolex, Omega, Breitling, Venini, Salvini, Bulgari, Blancpain, Lange & Sohne, Ulysse Nardin, Baume & Mercier, Longines, Bliss and Tissot. Its spaces, curated down to the last detail, show Rocca’s renewed commitment to Turin and, together, reveal the brand’s revamped image. The store’s sophisticated, contemporary interior design revolves around the new open-plan laboratory, designed to offer direct contact, and a unique experience in the art of watch manufacturing. 22 W H E R E T U R I N I O C TO B E R 2018
“As a native of Piedmont, I believe that Turin is a thriving, fast-growing city that is widely appreciated by an international public. Our aim is to make our shop a reference point,” explained Giorgio Damiani, vice-president of the Damiani Group, which acquired the Rocca chain in 2008. The Group’s new venture is deeply rooted in an important chapter of history. In the past, the Rocca Boutique in Turin was distinguished by its illustrious clientele, which included patrons like Giuseppe Verdi, Gabriele D’Annunzio and Luigi Pirandello, in addition to Rocca’s close working relationship with the Royal House of Savoy. Apropos renewed commitments and important stories, the sales point also offers the latest innovations from the Damiani Bridal Collection: elegant declarations of love for the most romantic occasions.
>> Rocca 1794 www.rocca1794.com via Roma, 290. T: 011 5629260 Open Mon-Sat 10.40am-7pm; Sun 10.40am-1.30pm/3pm-7pm.
Wedding rings from the D.Side collection in white gold and diamonds.
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN
Guidelines ACCESSORIES
The
This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. MAP LOCATIONS-Note that references in bold
at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc.) refer to the coordinates on the street map (pages 46-47). SHOPPING -Shopping hours are generally from 10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Turin) and on Monday mornings. Ask your concierge. Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.
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TAX-FREE SHOPPING
By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund.
Regina
Located in the picturesque piazza Gran Madre, this shop, selling handbags and accessories, will satisfy your every whim, whether you’re lovers of Ash biker boots, Golden Goose sneakers, Aquazzura pumps, Castaner wedges or Stuart Weitzman’s jeweled sandals. It also stocks a selection of bags, bijoux and auteur fragrances. www.reginashoes.it. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Wed 9am-1pm/3pm-7.30pm; Thurs-Fri 9am-7.30pm; Sat 9.30am-1.30pm/3pm-7.30pm. Via Villa della Regina, 3. T: 011 8193029. Map I6
Turineyes If you’ve always dreamt of a bespoke pair of glasses that don’t press down on your temples, leave a mark on your nose, adapt perfectly to the shape of your face, and are practical yet stylish, then this is the place for you. Unique models of both prescription and sunglasses,
that take around 20 days to execute, can be delivered worldwide. www.turineyes.it. Mon-Sat 9.30am-1pm/2.30pm-7pm. Via Mazzini, 33. T: 347 1882008 Map G6
BEAUTY Alkemy This small space in the centre of Turin concocts magical alchemies for body, face and haircare. The Alkemy line includes strictly natural nutricosmetics and dermoactives, whose effectiveness lies in the power of the natural plants and ingredients used, which no other company in the world combines or makes available, including Klamath, the ultimate wild superfood. www.myalkemy.it. Mon-Fri 9.30am-1pm/2.30pm-6pm. Via V. Alfieri, 6. T: 011 5581755. Map E4
L’Arcade des Parfums This niche perfumery, whose name is inspired
UnionPay Service Hotline: 00 800 800 95516 e-mail: europe@unionpayintl.com
UnionPay is an international bankcard association based in China and serves the world’s largest cardholder base. With more than 7 billion cards issued worldwide, UnionPay has become the mayor payment method of the outbound Chinese. By June 2018, more than 600,000 merchants in Italy accept UnionPay card for payment, among which 10,000 merchants are located in Turin. This allows hundred of thousands of affluent Chinese customers to shop with their favourite cards. UnionPay also actively work with famous retail groups, such as Rinascente department stores, McArthurGlen Designer Outlets, SINA hotels, Aspesi fashion boutiques, to provide special discount or services for UnionPay cardholders. DINING
Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30 € or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. SIGHTSEEING
The information provided on museums and monuments is verified as meticulously as possible. However, data such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices and the accessibility of sites are all subject to change, on a seasonal basis and also due to restoration work, museum loans or changes of management. Ask your concierge.
Juve: where to purchase the official merchandising In 2017, before Cristiano Ronaldo joined the team, there were 23 million Juve fans worldwide. It’s therefore no surprise that the Juventus Megastore is one of Turin’s most sought-after shopping destinations. Established in 1897, the club has won everything. Today, Juventus is the owner of the Juventus Stadium, a museum that sold its millionth ticket in May 2018, and a futuristic Megastore, located at the stadium’s headquarters. Its spaces and structures have been created to highlight over 600 official products for maximum effect. A mega-screen, two innovative transparent LED video walls and two self check-out totems have been designed to facilitate the purchasing experience, while ten hot presses enable fans to personalize their ‘bianconere’ (white and black) jerseys in only two minutes. In addition to selling books, posters and memorabilia, the space’s well-stocked bookstore hosts ‘Meets&Greets’ with players, offering ‘Juve’ enthusiasts a chance to take unforgettable photos, and get them signed with autographs. It’s worth remembering that prior to matches, spectators can access nine pop-up sales points, one in each sector of the stadium, plus a Juventus VIP Store in the Allianz Stadium’s Atrium of Honour. In addition to the megastore, the city also boasts two official Juventus sales points. store.juventus.com
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[ FA SHION DESIGNERS]
Luxury Top Brands A stroll through the streets of the centre, amidst elegant royal porticoes (that extend for 18km across the city), and squares embellished with sumptuous architecture, is a unique opportunity to soak up the city’s authentic charm. It’s also a great destination for shopping enthusiasts. In the heart of the city, often referred to as ‘little Paris’, you’ll find the best fashion brands. In particular, the austere and elegant via Roma and the parallel via Lagrange, do justice to the exquisite Italian and international fashions on display. Alternately, a reference point for young, trendy fashion is via Garibaldi – one of the longest pedestrian streets in Europe – which runs from Piazza Castello to Piazza Statuto. The ideal place for lovers of antiques and vintage items is via Po, which links Piazza Castello to Piazza Vittorio Veneto.
ASPESI—Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Galleria San Federico, 46. T: 011 5613577. Map F4 BRUNELLO CUCINELLI— www.brunellocucinelli.comOpen Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 8. T: 011 4407207. Map F4 CALVIN KLEIN—www.calvinklein.com Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Roma,342. T: 011 5613226. Map F4 CHANEL—www.chanel.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 2. T: 011 5066699. Map F4 GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Piazza San Carlo, 145. T: 011 5627768. Map E5 • Emporio Armani: Via Buozzi Bruno, 5. T. 011 5625977. Map F4 GUCCI—www.gucci.com Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Via Roma, 112. T: 011 4546632. Map F4 HERMÈS—www.hermes.com Open Mon-Sat 10.15am-2pm/3pm-7pm. Via Roma, 124. T: 011 546971. Map xx ITALIA INDEPENDENT— www.italiaindependent.com Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 31. T: 011 19885704. Map F5 L’AUTRE CHOSE—www.lautrechose.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 20/A. T: 011 19468000. Map F5 LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via Roma, 320. T: 011 5620678. Map E5 MARINA RINALDI—it.marinarinaldi.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via Roma, 314. T: 011 5187050. Map E5 MAX & CO.—it.maxandco.com Open Mon 11am-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Roma, 69. T: 011 541276. Map F4
A perfect bag for business, this functional tote is embellished with a distinctive LOUIS VUITTON Monogram Flower padlock in gleaming golden metal. 24 W H E R E T U R I N I O C TO B E R 2018
MICHAEL KORS—www.michaelkors.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am7pm. Via Roma, 322. T: 011 5618172. Map E5 MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm.
Pairing a traditional design with advanced wearable technologies, this MONTBLANC smartwatch from the ‘Summit’ collection has a bi-colour steel case and a navy blue leather strap.
Via G.L. Lagrange, 6c. T: 011 4782004. Map F4 MONCLER—www.moncler.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 2. T: 011 5618744 Map F4 MONTBLANC—www.montblanc.com Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. Via Roma, 104. T: 011 5187109. Map E5 PRADA—www. prada.com Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 2/q. T: 011 3710203. Map F4 ROBE DI KAPPA—www.robedikappa.com Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Via G. Garibaldi, 33. T: 011 19886532. Map F3 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— www.ferragamo.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via Roma, 108. T: 011 5625940. Map E5 SWAROVSKI—www.swarovski.com Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Via Roma, 335. T: 011 535345. Map E5 • Open Mon 3.30pm7.30pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am-1pm/3.30pm7.30pm. Corso Racconigi, 32 bis. T: 011 3852651. Off Map WOLFORD—www.wolford.it Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Wed 10am1.30pm/2.30pm-7.30pm; Thus-Sat 10am7.30pm; Sun 3.30pm-7pm. Via A. Doria, 6. T: 011 531348. Map F5
‘Clear Crystal’ leaf elements highlight the refined elegance of these ‘Baron’ earrings by SWAROVSKI’.
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unconventional, prestigious designer labels A Chiesa di S. Gioachino N including Rick Owens, Jil Sander, Anne O C AN Demeulemeester, Maison Margiela and Gareth A VI Pugh. The choice of designer labels and the store’s interior decor are a reflection of Claudio Antonioli’s personal style. His philosophy is based on blending contemporary taste with alternative solutions in a practical manner. www.antonioli. eu. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 11am7.30pm. Piazza Carlo Emanuele II, 19. T: 011 883253. Map G5
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N This multi-brand boutique for men and women G LO in located in piazza Carlina, one of the Bcity’s O A main squares. Antonioli stocks a mixture of VI
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by the arcaded porticoes of Corso Vittorio customers visiting the boutique are offered a VIA San Pietro in Vincoli BR IND Emanuele II, conducts ongoing research on its relaxing, scented hand massage. www.jomalone. ISI signature style. Take com. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am–7pm; V I A an olfactory journey amidst MA luxury perfume brands, created by Sun 2pm-7pm. Via Lagrange, 4/a. R fragrances IA AU Basilica di Maria Ausiliatrice S I Lcosmetics illustrious Maître Parfumeurs, and T: 011 4546467. Map F4 I AT RIC E makeup. The Arcade also offers a wide range Melissa of home fragrances and scentedP Icandles, AZZA V IA MARIA Just steps from the Mole V ITAntonelliana, Melissa is TO select bijoux, facials and makeup A U S I L Isessions. AT R I C E R VIA much more than a herbalist. IO AN Customers visiting DR S. www.larcadedesparfums-profumeria.it. Open E IS GI US the will find a vast selection of organic Espace Piccola Casa della PP Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 10am-7.30pm; E Divina Provvidenza PIAZZA Cottolengo cosmetics, hair products,BEincluding makeup, NED ETTO DELLA Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Corso Vittorio FORCA CO products, natural soaps, candles, cups and Emanuele II, 74/F. T: 011 5621148. Map D5 T C O teapots, perfumes andTOherbal LE VI teas, plus teas and A NG IO S. R N CH O Sinfusions GE IA Jo Malone of all types. Its interior, decorated with O R A London E U E RE IP The entire product flower-patterned wallpaper, hat stands, velvet GI I N C range of this prestigious R P NA VI O A BritishObrand is showcased at the airy boutique sofas and vintage furniture, is reminiscent of a RS SA NT MA C Anagrafe A C H via Lagrange. located in the city’s central French boudoir. In addition to organizing events, V RG I IA A RA CA HE Centro Palatino Rits Perfumes, candles, diffusers, bath and body with L O owners often pamper their Pala Fuksas R I clientele IG NA TA care and home products, all featuringV I Athe iconic makeup Z I artists or manicurists. www.melissatorino. SA O Mercato GI Alimentare A UMon-Sat fragrances of Jo Malone London that canN Tbe com. Open 11am-2pm; 3,30pm-7,30pm. LI CH PIAZZA O IA Mercato RA DELLA PIAZZA combined to create your own bespoke scent. All Via G. Ferrari, Map H4 Ittico Santuario 4. T: 011 8395813.
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Sizing Women,s clothes IT EUR US UK 36 32 1 4 38 34 2 6 40 36 4 8 42 38 6 10 44 40 8 12 46 42 10 14 48 44 12 16 Women,s shoes IT EUR US UK 36 36 6 3 37 37 6.5 4 38 38 7.5 5 39 39 8.5 6 40 40 9 7 41 41 9.5 8 Men,s clothes IT EUR US UK 50 46 36 36 52 48 38 38 54 50 40 40 56 52 42 42 58 54 44 44 60 56 46 46 Men,s shoes IT EUR US UK 40 40 7.5 6 41 41 8 7 42 42 8.5 8 43 43 9 9 44 44 10.5 10 45 45 11.5 11 46 46 12 12
research and high-quality fabrics, offering clients a product that’s excellent value for money. www.boggi.com. Via XX Settembre, 11/c. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues- Sat 10am-7.30pm. Map E5 * Stazione Porta Nuova - Via Nizza. Open Mon-Sun 8am-9pm. T: 011 5622017. Map E6
and Marni. Other highlights include cosmetics by Santa Maria Novella and niche perfumes by Byredo and Diptyque. www.sancarlodal1973. com. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am7pm. Piazza San Carlo, 201. T: 011 5114110. Map F4
Caramello
An ideal destination for lovers of a chic, soughtafter style, this stand-alone store offers a selection of established and emerging brands including Loboutin, Azzedine Alaia, Isabel Marant and Giambattista Valli. Additionally, its homeware department features furnishing fabrics, unique design pieces and a careful selection of tableware and furnishing accessories. www.sosanlorenzo. it. Open Mon3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am7.30pm. Via Des Ambrois, 7. T: 011 883531. Map G5
Located in the centre of Turin, this large showroom spread over two floors, offers a wide selection of men and women’s fashions. The assortment ranges from Elisabetta Franchi’s feminine, contemporary collections to sartorial men’s brand Tagliatore, from Dondup, the queen of Made-in-Italy denim, to Patrizia Pepe and Manuel Ritz. Caramello also has an outlet in the Crocetta district, showcasing last season’s collections at affordable prices. caramellostore.it. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 10.30am-7.30pm; Sat 10am-7.30pm. Corso G. Ferraris, 2. T: 011 5175090. Map D3
Kristina Ti The standalone store of famous Torinese brand Kristina offers romantic, highly feminine collections designed by Cristina Tardito. At this warm, welcoming space, located just a stone’s throw from piazza Castello, you’ll find clothing for free spirited, independent women, who are not prepared to sacrifice a touch of seductive frivolity. www.kristinati.it Open Mon 3.30am7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Maria Vittoria, 18. T: 011 837170. Map F4
Posh At this multi-brand store, situated in the prestigious piazza San Carlo in the heart of the city, you’ll find a selection of clothing, perfumes and accessories by several of the world’s most prestigious international brands. This highly selective choice of clothing for men and women includes big-name brands like See by Chloè, Vivienne Westwood, Karl Lagerfeld, Comme des Garçons and Jean Charles de Castelbajac. www.poshtorino. com. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Wed 10.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Thurs 10.30am-7.30pm; Fri-Sun 10.30am-1.30pm, 3.30pm-7.30pm. Via Roma, 218. T: 011 5622365. Map F4
San Carlo dal 1973 CONCEPT STORE An historic Torinese clothing store, located in its namesake square. This large multi-brand store, dedicated to the best collections of clothing, accessories and perfumes, skillfully mixes designer labels with alternative brands; a repository of non-conformist ideas, where you can search for items that are never ordinary. The list of brands available is vast and includes Acne Studios, DKNY, Issey Miyake, Jil Sander, Lanvin
SO San Lorenzo
Top Ten Located in the highly central via Soleri, this two-level space has been, since its inception, a reference point for the city’s elite. Its discreet, minimalist architectural style is reflected in its meticulous, well-defined choice of brands, ranging from the avant-garde to the most prestigious international brands like Comme des Garçons, Junya and Watanabe, to mention but a few. Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via Soleri, 2. T: 011 535360. Map E5
Verdelilla Tucked away in a beautiful courtyard in Corso Re Umberto, this alluring space houses a selection of coveted French and Japanese brands, by designers like Tsumori Chisato, Jerome Dreyfuss and Jasmin Puech, and also showcases the creations of emerging brands. Amidst fashion, accessories, bijoux, perfumes and cosmetics, this must-visit boutique exudes an atmosphere of innovative taste, relaxed elegance and lowkey femininity. www.verdelilla.it. Open Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. Corso Re Umberto, 27. T: 011 5172701. Map D6
DEPARTMENT STORE Rinascente Italy’s most prestigious temple of high-end shopping is located in the city’s highly central via Lagrange. This department store offers the best in fashion for men, women and children, alongside a selection of accessories, design, homeware and beauty by the best Italian and international brands. At its food market, you’ll find the best gourmet Made-in-Italy foods, and a fabulous selection of prestigious international products. Don’t miss the renewed floors: -1 (home-food-design), 3rd and 4th floors (women’s fashion). Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-8pm; Sat 9.30am8.30pm; Sun10am-8pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 15. T: 011 5170075. Map F5
JEWELLERY & WATCHES Astrua 1860 The accessories featured at the CARAMELLO showroom include this Orciani ‘Sveva Silver Color’ shoulder bag in leather with a niche finish, tassel charm, coloured edging and interior, hidden opening on the upper part of the flap, and an adjustable strap.
26 W H E R E T U R I N I O C TO B E R 2018
ROLEX RETAILER A reference point for luxury French, Swiss and German timepieces, patronized by the Torinese and international aristocracy since the 19 th century, Astrua is synonymous with quality, reliability and technical expertise. This historic boutique offers a wide range of products including new and pre-owned watches, jewelry, glass art, perfumes, candles, writing instruments
SHOPPING The hallmark features of ASTRUA 1860’s jewelry include rose gold, exquisite shapes, luxurious materials and attention to detail, exemplified in this sophisticated charm pendant set with a pavé of diamonds.
and luxury leather goods. High-end watch brands stocked include Rolex, Patek Philippe, JaegerLeCoultre, Cartier, Vacheron Constantin, Omega, Officine Panerai, IWC, Cartier, Hublot and Montblanc. Open Mon 3.30pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am1.30pm/3.30pm-7pm. www.astrua. com. Via C. Battisti, 15. T: 011 5613589. Map F4
Rocca 1794
ROLEX RETAILER Master jewelers and watchmakers since the 18th century, Rocca rates among the first importers of luxury Swiss watches. Rocca pays homage to fine watchmaking with a selection of the world’s most prestigious brands including Damiani, Rolex, Breguet, Ulysse Nardin, Omega, Cartier, Roger Dubuis, Piaget, Vacheron Constantin, Breitling, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Tudor, Venini and Salvini. Rocca is acknowledged for its longstanding tradition of professionalism and expert consultancy. Located in the shadow of the Mole Antonelliana, its founder, Alberto Rocca, opened his first boutique at the end of the 18th century. Open Mon-Sat 10.40am-7pm; Sun 10.40am1.30pm/3pm-7pm. www.rocca1794.com. Via Roma, 290. T: 011 5621467/5629260. Map F4
LEATHER & LUGGAGE Maledetti Toscani This story began in 1848 in Montepulciano, Tuscany, when the great-great grandfather of the present owners opened a leather workshop. Today, although Maledetti Toscani owns shops in Europe, the USA and Canada, it continues to focus religiously on time-honoured Made-in-Italy craftsmanship. Hence, the creation of footwear, renowned for its delightfully aged appearance, crafted in only the finest leathers, dyed with tree tannins and enhanced with real leather soles, and hand woven, hand-stitched artisanal bags. www. maledettitoscani.com. Open Mon-Fri 9am-5pm. Via P. Micca, 18. T: 011 5579134. Map E4
PASSION SHOPPING Bagni Paloma
in shades of ochre and sand, you’ll find the culture of Culti, designed to stimulate the senses in a mixture of design, art and fragrance. The space houses all the brand’s collections of room and home fragrances including diffusers, room sprays, candles, cosmetics and scented pillows. www.culti.com. Open Tues-Sat 10.30am–2pm/3pm-7.30pm. Via C. Battisti, 3. T: 011 0361363. Map F4
La Belle Histoire Located underneath the Mole Antonelliana, this retrò-style atelier, overlooking a picturesque courtyard, is a go-to destination for romantics who’ll find themselves surrounded by old suitcases, trunks, wooden vintage furniture and brocade armchairs. The store offers a selection of almost exclusively Made-in-Italy garments, with the exception of French brand Lilith, Spanish brand Hoss Intropia and Japanese brand Takaaki. Other highlights include a collection of strictly Italian-made footwear and a homeware line. www.labellehistoire.it. Open Mon 3.30pm7.30pm; Tues-Fri 10am-1pm; 3.30pm-7.30pm; Thurs and Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via Montebello 15/g. T: 011 8136199. Map H3
Les Coquettes Housed in a 1920s Parisian-style apartment, amidst vintage hat stands, drawers filled with costume jewelry, antiques and pink leather sofas, this unusual, whimsical concept store, with a slightly bohemian air, offers a selection of clothing, delicious bijoux, cosmetics, candles, perfumes and furnishing accessories. www. lescoquettes.it. Open Tues-Sat 10.30am1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via G. Barbaroux, 12/l. T: 011 531943. Map F3
Mabì Mabì is a sought-after boutique that sells couture clothing, French costume jewelry, artisanal footwear and natural cosmetic products. Rather than fast fashion, you’ll find a selection of authentic clothing with a nod to vintage, at this charming boutique. Garments on sale include a collection of women’s couture dresses designed especially for Mabi by Maria della Rocchetta, one of the two owners of the store, who has a passion for British-style floral prints. www.mabishop.it. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Wed 10.30am1.30pm/3pm-7.30pm; Thurs-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Via della Rocca, 2/m. T: 349 2818511. Map G6
Located in an old 100sq.m. garage in the heart of Turin, this delightful concept store carries clothing, furniture and various other items including dishwashing liquids, black pepper, candles, Japanese watercolours and colognes by Parisian ceramic artist Astier de Villatte. The backbone of its fashion offerings include niche brands like Mimì à la Mer, Laura Urbinati, Ouigal, Maria La Rosa and Ishi. All the furniture used for display is on sale. www.bagnipaloma.it. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Wed 10.30am1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Thurs-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Via dei Mille, 30/d. T: 011 888569. Map G6
Poncif
Culti House Torino
Rrriot shop
At this small, charming boutique decorated
Since 1986, this boutique has focused on a style designed for women, who, in spite of their love for minimalist, no-frills fashion, are nevertheless looking to make a statement thanks to the strikingly original designs and unusual colour combinations. In addition to the line of the Poncif brand, designed and produced by an in-house team, all the collections showcased are based on the same principle. www.poncif.com. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm7.30pm; Fri 10am-7.30pm. Piazza Vittorio Veneto, 5\f. T: 011 8173040. Map H5
Tax Free Refund Guide 1. VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a value added tax on goods and services, and is part of the European Union’s value added tax system. 2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a VAT refund. This refund does not cover the services supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies. 3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: • you are a non-EU resident; • the goods purchased are intended for personal or family use only and are carried in your luggage; • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds 154,94 Euro (VAT included); • the purchase is certified by an invoice. This invoice should include a description of the goods purchased, your personal information as well as the details of your passport or any other equivalent document; • the goods leave EU territory by the end of the third month after the month that you bought them; • several specific customs formalities are complied with; • the invoice is returned to the Italian retailer within four months after the purchase was made. 4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must be shown at the customs exit point when leaving EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items into your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs BEFORE checking in). 5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return the original invoice, regularly endorsed by the customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice must be returned within four months from the date when the document was issued. 6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian retailer (however, make sure that the shop you’ve chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax Free” sign in its window). 7. Several Tax-Free companies are able to offer immediate VAT cash refunds when the goods leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating the passenger from having to return the invoice to the retailer). However, this procedure only applies at major international airports or main border crossings. Most major department stores have Tax Free Refund offices. 8. The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply the payment of a small administrative sum which is directly deducted from the amount of VAT refunded to the traveller. 9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund within a reasonable period of time, he or she should re-contact the Italian retailer or one of the aforementioned companies. 10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded directly by customs offices. Source: www.agenziadoganemonopoli.gov.it/ portale/ee/citizen/vta-refund
Tucked away in the creative, multi-ethnic district w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 27
SHOPPING
BOTTEGA VELASCA See this page
SAN CARLO DAL 1973
LES COQUETTES
See page 26
Esoteric Turin Turin is a city of mystery, magic and legend. Its ‘magical’ significance is attributed to its geographical position, along the 45th parallel where the Po and Dora rivers meet. More importantly, it creates the vertices of two triangles, a triangle of white magic and a triangle of black magic. This explains why Turin boasts numerous shops dedicated to arcane practices where you can purchase books, incense, tarot cards, candles, plus anything else associated with the occult world. (C.Z.)
See page 27
of San Salvario, this shop, distinguished by its minimalist decor, mixes men and women’s clothing with vintage jewelry and accessories and young, creative brands. Thanks to ongoing research, Rrriot strives to offer its customers a range of products that are always different and innovative. Its aim is to introduce Turin to Northern European brands designed exclusively for the Italian market. www.rrriotshop.com. Tues-Fri 10.30am1.30pm/3.30pm-19.30pm; Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Berthollet, 25/a. T: 011 19500239. Map F7
SHOES Bottega Velasca
ARETHUSA At Italy’s oldest occult bookshop, established in 1948, you can find a comprehensive selection of publications, books, magazines or series dedicated to spiritual, hermetic or esoteric subjects. Arethusa also stocks a wide range of tarot cards, pendulums, crystal balls, Tibetan Mala, bùzinos, runes and incense. arethusalibreria.com Tues-Sat 10.45am- 6.40pm. Via G. Giolitti, 18. T: 011 8173373. Map xx ESOTERICAMENTE A reference point in the city for lovers of the genre. After crossing a beautiful inner courtyard in via Garibaldi, you’ll find a vast assortment of ritualistic objects, talismans of Salomonic origin, tarot cards and cards from all over the world, incense, crystals and everything required for ritualistic practices. The bookstore is large and well-stocked. www.esotericamente.it Open Mon 2.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via G. Garibaldi, 18 (courtyard). T: 011 4310499. Map xx
28 W H E R E T U R I N I O C TO B E R 2018
LIBRERIA EDITRICE PSICHE Founded in Turin in 1978, this publisher, publishes and sells works related to medicine, naturopathy, psychology, spirituality, sophism, Buddhism, Taoism and numerology at its namesake bookstore. Also organizes meetings, courses and themed seminars. www.libreriaeditricepsiche.info Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-12.30pm/3.30pm7.30pm; Sat 9.30am-12.30am. Via Madama Cristina, 70/b. T: 011 6507058. Map xx LIBRERIA FENICE Located just steps from piazza Castello this well-stocked bookstore carries unpublished work of esoterica. Publications are also available in English, French, German and Spanish. In addition to seminars and themed courses, it also hosts events and presentations. www.fenicetorino.com Mon 4pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-1pm/4pm-7.30pm. Via Porta Palatina, 2. T: 011 4362689. Map xx
Located in the Borgo Nuovo district, south-east of the centre of Turin, this artisanal shoe (and accessories) store for men offers customers an authentic Made in Italy experience. Renowned for its craftsmanship and Italian excellence, Bottega Velasca offers a selection of classic, casual and formal footwear. Open Mon 4pm-8pm; Tues-Fri 11am-3pm/4pm-8pm; Sat and Sun 11am-8pm. www.velasca.com. Via G. Mazzini 22/e. T: 02 94755460 (bottega.torino@velasca.com).Map G6
Hole This multi-brand store located in the heart of the city’s historic centre sells high-quality footwear distinguished by its original design. You’ll find a interesting mix of trendy brands here, including Ixos, Moma and Strategia, alongside models by Italian and internal artisanal producers. Also sells bags and accessories. Open Mon 3.30pm7.15pm; Tues-Fri 10.30am-2pm/3.30pm-7.15pm; Sat 10.30am-12.30am/3.30pm-7pm. Via G. Botero, 11. T: 011 5176602. Map E3
Cribì Established in 1996, and located in Turin’s highly central via Lagrange, Cribi is a multi-brand store selling minimalist, alternative footwear and clothing, featuring a combination of craftsmanship and experimentation to create elegant, timeless lines. Best sellers include boots by Fiorentini+Baker, pumps by Del Carlo and original clothing by Malloni and Liviana Conti. www.cribibotique.it. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30 pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-2pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 38. T: 011 5611348. Map F5
[RINASCENTE]
One-stop shop
The best shopping in Turin
THIS PAGE IS KINDLY SPONSORED BY RINASCENTE
Head to the historic Rinascente department store in via Lagrange to discover the latest innovations of this ever-evolving shopping universe.
Following the opening this spring of the new -1 floor dedicated to homeware, design and food, Rinascente recently revamped its 3rd and 4th women’s floors offering the best in fashion, thanks to a brand mix designed exclusively for the store. The two new floors feature unique, distinctive and eclectic offerings and are the ideal place to explore a wide range of women’s fashions, with areas devoted to contemporary and classic ready-towear, lingerie and footwear. The floors are organized according to a perimeter like shopin-shop concept with a multi-brand central area hosting approximately 230 brands, of which more than 200 are new at the Turin-based store. FASHION & SHOES Spread over 1,250 square metres, the store’s new third floor presents contemporary readyto-wear, expressed to perfection for a complete day-to-night lifestyle look. The focal point of
the floor is a 250 square meter area dedicated to footwear, a go-to place for those who wear this accessory as a distinctive element of their style. Brands showcased include Casadei, Isabel Marant, Kenzo, Marni, Sergio Rossi, Tod’s, Hogan, Tory Burch, Fratelli Rossetti, Michael Kors and numerous others. Lovers of a casualchic look will be spoilt for choice when it comes to sneakers. Brands include Adidas Y3, All Star Converse, Nike, Premiata, Puma, Reebok, Superga and more. READY TO WEAR, LINGERIE & CHILDREN The fourth floor is the kingdom of classic ready-to-wear featuring the timeless allure of the latest collections by Aspesi, Emporio Armani, Fabiana Filippi, Herno, Fay, Polo Ralph Lauren, MaxMara Weekend and other brands renowned for their contemporary classic style. The floor’s 1,200 square metres also
host an area devoted to lingerie, in a visually striking architectural display, infused with a romantic mood; the collections include items from Wolford, Paladini, Emporio Armani, Henro, Calvin Klein, Chantelle and Lejaby. The children’s collections, featuring on-trend picks by big-name brands like Emporio Armani, Diesel, EA7, Il Gufo and Tartine et Chocolat, complete the shopping experience at the via Lagrange store. >> Rinascente Torino www.rinascente.it - Open 7 days a week. Via G.L. Lagrange, 15. T: 011 5170075.
The new personalized shopper pictures an icon inspired by the bull, the symbol of the city, recreated with the letters of ‘Torino’ and infused with a fresh, contemporary style. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 29
FOOD&WINE
A temple of old-world flavours Caffè Al Bicerin, which gave birth to the signature drink the ‘bicerin’, is one of Turin’s oldest, multi-award winning locales in the heart of the city. By Sophia Bertoli
M
ade from espresso, chocolate and cream, the ‘bicerin’ was created in the Caffè Al Bicerin, which jealously guards its recipe. Il takes its name from the special rounded glasses without handles in which it is served. The locale in the picturesque piazza della Consolata opposite the Sanctuary, was established in 1763 as a shop selling drinks and sorbets, and only became a chocolate and pastry shop in the mid-1800s. The venue probably owed its success to the nearby church: after attending mass, the faithful would flock to the café to indulge in a delicious ‘bicerin’ after fasting for many hours (until 1957, the “Eucharistic fast” required no eating or drinking from midnight to mass). Today, in addition to ‘bicerin’, the Caffè continues to delight the palates of tourists, students, 30 W H E R E T U R I N I O C TO B E R 2018
Turinese ‘Signore’, politicians and intellectuals with numerous other delectable specialties, including a mouth watering zabaione, prepared on the spot, accompanied by whipped cream, small biscuits flavoured with marsala, moscato, lemon, passito or black cherry Ratafia. Another must-try delicacy is the Bicerin’s cake, made from coffee and chocolate, iced with a white frosting. A visit to Al Bicerin is well worth your time to soak up its old-world atmosphere. Once inside, you’ll feel that you’ve stepped back into the 1800s. Its interior is decorated with original period furnishings, antique mirrors and glass display cabinets showcasing chocolate like works of art. >> Piazza della Consolata, 5. T: 011 4369325. bicerin.it
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN
FOOD SHOPS
ITALIAN GELATO
Borgiattino
Alberto Marchetti
A reference point in Turin for lovers of traditional Piedmont cheeses, including Tome and Fontine d’alpeggio, Robiola, Gorgonzola, Ormea and Castelmagno. Located in the heart of the city, this historic ‘bottega’ also offers specialties from other Italian and European regions including Reblochon from France and Cheddar from Britain, accompanied by wines and other high-quality artisanal products. Open Mon-Sat 8.30am-1pm/4pm-7.30pm. borgiattino.com. Corso Vinzaglio, 29. T: 011 5629075. Map C4
You can sample Alberto Marchetti’s award-winning ice cream at various locations across the city. The highlights of its ‘creations’ are its freshness, simplicity and the quality of its ingredients that conjure up childhood memories of only the most authentic gelato. In particular, thanks to the Slow Food project, which protects small, local producers, it offers a selection of unique flavours including ice cream made with Leonforte peaches, Ribera wild strawberries, Mombaruzzo amaretti or Moscato Passito from Strevi. Open Mon-Thurs 12noon-midnight; Fri-Sat 12noon-1am; Sun 11am11pm. www.albertomarchetti.it. Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 24bis. T: 011 8390879. Map E5 * Via Po, 35bis. T: 011 8141160. Map G4 * Piazza CLN, 248. T: 011 544383. Map F5
Gastronomia (La)
VEGAN A vegan delicatessen where you can eat on-site, order take-aways, or even take cookery courses. Its dishes, all cooked with meat-free ingredients, include Seitan, Russian and Capricciosa salad and a strictly anchovyfree Piedmont green sauce for vegans who are fans of Piedmont specialties. The deli is located in via Dante Nenni, in the heart of Borgo San Paolo, Turin’s historical, working class district. Open Mon-Thus 10am-8pm; Fri 10am-10pm. Sat 9.30am-2.30pm. gastronomiaveg.it. Via Dante di Nanni, 116. T: 011 3828605. Off Map
Gelateria Pepino
UNIQUE Situated in Piazza Carignano, in the heart of Turin, Pepino is one of Italy’s oldest ice cream parlours that has been producing highquality ice cream since 1884. In 1939, it invented
and patented the famous Pinguino®, the classic ice cream on a stick covered with chocolate that soon became popular throughout the rest of the world. In addition to the classic vanilla version, Pepino offers a variety of different options including coffee, gianduja, mint and coconut. Open Fri-Sat 9.30am-10.30pm; Sun-Thurs 9.30am-8.30pm. www.gelatipepino.it. Piazza Carignano, 87. T: 011 542009. Map F4
Mara dei Boschi Its natural ice cream made from only the finest ingredients without preservatives or additives, won the venue a mention in the Gambero Rosso Guide, and is one of of the best ice cream parlours in Italy. Mara dei Boschi, a constantly evolving ice cream parlour, uses innovative techniques to revive the flavours of the past. Its specialty is Marotto, an interpretation of Turin’s classic gianduotto made with white truffles from Alba and hazelnuts from the Langhe. This fabulous milk-free ice cream is an ideal option for vegans. Open Mon-Thurs 12noon11pm; Sat and Sun 12noon-midnight. Via Berthollet, 30/h. T: 011 0769557. www.maradeiboschi.com. Corso De Gasperi, 57/e. T: 011 18891679. Off Map
Làit e Formagg Located just steps from the centre, this small, well-stocked shop sells Piedmontese and other cheese specialties (Parmesan cheese, ricotta, aged cheeses, ‘tomini’, ‘caprini’, herb-flavoured cheeses and more) which can be sampled with tantalizing sauces, high-quality charcuterie and other regional specialties including grissini, lingue di suocera (a type of biscuit which translates literally as mother-in-law’s tongues) and other typical sweet treats, such as Piedmontese biscuits and hazelnut cakes. From October to January, you’ll also find precious white truffles from Alba. Open Mon 11am-2pm/4pm-8pm; Tues-Sat 8am-2pm/4pm8pm. www.alformaggi.it. Via Madama Cristina, 18. T: 011 6699407. Off Map
Latteria Bera Situated just a short distance from Piazza Castello, this old-world, family-run ‘latteria’ (dairy shop) sells cheese and traditional Italian and Piedmontese charcuterie and pickles. The cheeses on offer include Parmigiano Reggiano, Robiola from Roccaverano, Caciocavallo from Potenza, Morozzo and Toma-flavoured butter. Other delicacies on offer include freshly whipped cream and Greek yoghurt. Open Mon-Tues 9.30am-1.30pm/3pm7.30pm; Thus-Sat 9.30am-2pm/3pm-7.30pm. www.latteriabera.com. Via San Tommaso, 13/a. T: 328 0166854. Map F3
Pescheria Gallina Now run by the fourth generation, this historic fishmonger located in Porta Palazzo’s piazza del mercato has been in business for over a century. Its wonderfully fresh fish, mainly sourced from the Ligurian Sea, guaranteeing that it was caught just 24 hours earlier, can be eaten on-site. Customers can choose their order directly from the counter or opt for its fixed-price menu, which include the catch of the day, focaccia, a glass of house wine and a bottle of water. Open Mon-Fri 07am-3pm; Sat 7.30am-5pm. www.pescheriagallina.com. Piazza della Repubblica, 14/b. T: 011 5213424. Map F2
Authentic flavours of Piedmont Turin’s most famous fresh pasta can be found at Pastificio Defilippis in the heart of via Lagrange. It has been here since 1872, when Domenico Toso, chef to the House of Savoy, returned to Turin, following the royal family’s move from Florence. Established as a small artisanal workshop in the 20th century, the high quality and unmistakable flavour of Defilippis pasta have contributed to making via Lagrange the street of gourmets in search of the most authentic flavours of Piedmontese tradition. Fresh egg pasta made with select ingredients, Piedmontese ‘tajarin, ‘plin’ ravioli, ‘agnolotti’ stuffed with braised beef and ravioli filled with truffles, fondue or pumpkin, depending on the season, plus fresh bronze extruded durum wheat pasta, can be purchased to take away, or sampled on-site. Since 2008, its elegant spaces, decorated with wood furnishings, have also housed a delicatessen and a gourmet restaurant on two floors, where you can taste the great classics of the city’s pasta-making traditions interpreted in tantalizing recipes and accompanied by a good selection of wines. The restaurant is open daily for lunch and dinner. Pastificio Defilippis. Via Lagrange, 39. T: 011 542137. www.pastificiodefilippis.it. Barberino Designer Outlet w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 31
DINING
Condividere restaurant
A cloud of flavours Better value at mealtimes, but don’t forget the coffee. This is the underlying concept of Lavazza’s food project, where sharing takes centre stage. By Giulia Minero
32 W H E R E T U R I N I O C TO B E R 2018
Traditional Italian cuisine is re-interpreted in a contemporary key, creating haute cuisine that can be enjoyed in an informal, relaxed atmosphere. Standouts include ‘Gelato al Parmigiano Bob Noto’, ‘chickpea waffles’ and ‘Modenese Brioches’. Particular attention is paid to desserts that are served in a separate area, aptly named Dulcis in fundo. This change of space is designed to highlight the dessert-tasting experience and the endof-meal coffee ritual. Here, guests can choose from an array of different Lavazza coffee blends accompanied by original single-servings of desserts. >> Condividere c/o Nuvola Lavazza Via Bologna, 20A. T: 0110897651.
Lavazza headquarters
PHOTO © ANDREA MARTIRADONNA
I
n Turin, food, a design school and an interactive museum are embodied in the name, Nuvola Lavazza. This is a groundbreaking project that has given the Aurora district a new look. Inside, two areas dedicated to dining – the Condividere restaurant and the Bistrot, open to employees and guests, transform mealtimes into a convivial experience. Thanks to the recreation of an atmosphere typical of Italian Sunday lunches, everything at Condividere, from its furnishings to its place settings, has been designed to make guests feel at ease. A concept conceived by Ferran Adrià, with set designs by Dante Ferretti and cuisine by Modenese chef Federico Zanasi, focused on highlighting raw materials.
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN
TRADITIONAL PIEDMONTESE CUISINE Cannavacciuolo Bistrot Located just steps from the Gran Madre, this Turin-based bistro owned by multi-award winning Italian chef Antonino Cannavacciuolo, will not disappoint. The bistro offers guests a unique tasting experience featuring a combination of northern and southern flavours. Highlights include Fassona beef tartare, codfish with tomatoes, eggplant parmigiana ravioli with a Provola cheese sauce and pigeon with blueberries and burrata (a fresh Italian buffalo milk cheese made from mozzarella and cream). Open Mon 7pm-11pm; Tues-Sat 12.30pm-3pm/7pm-11pm. €€€. www.cannavacciuolobistrot.it/torino. Via U. Cosmo, 6. T: 011 8399893. Map I6
Casa Amelie A stone’s throw from the Quadrilatero Romano, and only a few months after opening, this small, welcoming locale owned by Neapolitan chef Guido Perino, was classified as one of the city’s top ten restaurants at the Fork Restaurants Awards, sponsored by Identità Golose. The chef’s creative yet simple cuisine features a combination of classic and exotic fare, premiumquality ingredients and seasonal products that will delight your taste buds. Open Mon 7.30pm10.30pm; Tues-Sat 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm10.30pm. €€. www.ristorantecasaamelie.com. Via Giulio, 4/b. T: 011 5211579. Map E2
Cianci Piola Caffè A real institution in Turin, this bustling ‘piola’ (a typical, laid-back Piedmontese tavern) offers authentic regional dishes at unbeatable prices. With tables spilling out onto the square in warmer months, this delightful locale in the heart of the Quadrilatero Romano, serves Fassona beef tartare, ‘vitello tonnato’, ‘tajerin’ (a thin version of tagliatelle), ‘agnolotti’ and a vegetable-based Piedmontese antipasto which includes tomatoes, anchovies and peppers in a sauce, accompanied by a great selection of wines. Open 12.30pm3.30pm/6.30pm-11pm. €€. Largo 4 Marzo, 9/b, T: 388 8767003. Map F3
Consorzio In the heart of the quaint Quadrilatero Romano, Consorzio offers traditional cuisine, sometimes re-imagined with a twist, featuring ‘Made-in Piedmont’ ingredients including Piedmontese beef, Cervere leeks, the hunchback thistles of Nizza Monferrato and freshly picked, gardengrown vegetables. A harmonious combination that pays tribute to customers, chefs, breeders, farmers and wine growers. Its cheeses, sourced from the best local producers, with a few forays into the rest of Italy, France or Britain for a taste of Stilton, deserve a separate mention. Open MonFri 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm-11pm; Sat 7.30pm11pm. €€. ristoranteconsorzio.it. Via Monte di Pietà, 23. T: 011 2767661. Map E3
È Cucina This charming restaurant owned by theatrical Florentine chef Cesare Maretti features brightly lit windows overlooking the street, contemporary décor and an open-plan kitchen, now a popular contemporary concept in Northern Italy. The chef’s underlying philosophy is based on the search for premium-quality ingredients with a
Michelin-starred restaurants Turin boasts four starred Michelin restaurants, true pillars of Piedmontese cuisine. Get ready for your new restaurant to-do list. By Livia Fioravanti CASA VICINA Located in the basement of Eataly, with a separate entrance from via Nizza, Casa Vicina celebrates the gastronomic tradition of a famous family of Piedmont restaurateurs with an array of fabulous dishes that are distinguished by the meticulous choice of ingredients and impeccable presentations. Although the menu features the names of classical dishes of Piedmont and Italian culinary tradition, remember that at this family-run locale simplicity was rewarded with a Michelin star. Casa Vicina also boasts one of the best wine lists in Italy, with a selection that encompasses every major wine-growing region. Via Nizza 224 c/o Eataly Lingotto. T: 011 19506840. www.casavicina.com DEL CAMBIO Set against the sophisticated backdrop of the pedestrian area of piazza Carignano, Del Cambio, which opened in 1757, is not only a restaurant but a piece of history. Following an in-depth renovation, the famous 18th century ‘salotto’, the favourite haunt of Italian politician and entrepreneur, Count Cavour, re-opened in 2014 under the stewardship of chef Matteo Baronetto. Restored to its former splendour, the ‘salotto’ has once again become a symbol of Savoy elegance and gastronomic sophistication: a perfect blend of tradition and the authentic flavours of Piedmontese cuisine and innovation. In addition to the restaurant, other highlights include the Bar Cavour, a sophisticated cocktail bar, where the kitchen stays open until late at night, the nearby Farmacia del Cambio which offers delectable pastries created exclusively by Fabrizio Galla as well as Del Cambio products re-imagined by Matteo Baronetto. Informal, quick and contemporary, amidst its intricately carved wood panelling you’ll find a fabulous selection of sweet and savoury products which can either be sampled on-site or ordered to take away. Piazza Carignano, 2. T: 011 546690. www.delcambio.it MAGORABIN Thanks to the magical culinary skills of chef Marcello Trentini, Magorabin earned a Michelin star. Its dishes feature a skillful
Vintage 1997
blend of Mediterranean and Piedmont tastes and influence, further enhanced by an excellent wine list. Located just steps from the Mole Antonelliana, the locale boasts a warm, cosy atmosphere, ideal for a refreshing break during a sightseeing tour of the city. In addition to the à la carte menu, make sure to try its four tasting menus named after the elements: Earth, Water, Air and Fire. Corso San Maurizio 61/b. T: 011 8126808. www.magorabin.com VINTAGE 1997 Vintage 1997 is the comfortable retreat of discerning diners in search of traditional Piedmontese fare prepared with healthy ingredients and an excellent wine list. At the end of 2017, its longtime chef Pierluigi Consonni handed over the reins to the locale’s owner Umberto Chiodi Latini who reorganized the kitchen staff: all talented professionals, who guaranteed the seamless transition into the restaurant’s new incarnation. The locale’s new chefs have continued to maintain the high quality of the traditional cuisine served here, while at the same time adding a few innovative touches to the dishes. Piazza Solferino 16/h. T: 011 535948/5136722. www.vintage1997.com
Casa Vicina
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DINING particular focus on organic fruit and vegetables (all dishes are served with a side, at no additional charge) and conviviality. In the evening, guests can choose from a meat, fish or vegetarian menu, accompanied by homemade bread and focacce. Open Mon-Sun 12.30pm-3am/8pm-11pm; Sun 12 noon-3pm. €€. cesaremarretti.com. Via Bertola, 27/a. T: 011 5629038. Map E3
Filiberti-Vini e Fornelli A small bistro in the Quadrilatero Romano, infused with a decidedly French atmosphere. The menu is divided into small tapas-style antipasti (referred to here as ‘minuterie’) including Bao buns topped with brisket and barbecue sauce, codfish cheek with chard and a meat consommé. Mains include pastrami or ‘plin’ re-interpreted in a Mediterranean version with Provola cheese, eggplant and tomatoes, accompanied by an extensive wine list, including several natural varieties. Open Mon 7pm-11pm; Tues-Thurs 12 noon-2.30pm/7pm-11pm; Fri- Sat 12 noon2.30pm/7pm-midnight. €€. www.filibertiviniefornelli.it. Piazza Emanuele Filiberto, 6/a. T: 011 19173730. Map E2
Le Vitel Etonné The standout at this restaurant located in the heart of the centre is ‘vitello tonnato’, one of the great classics of Piedmont cuisine, an absolute must-try at its namesake restaurant. Other specialties include ‘tajerin’, a fresh pasta prepared according to a traditional recipe with 36 egg yolks per kilo of flour, served with an array of seasonal sauces, ‘tagliatelle’ with Bra sausage and ‘agnolotti al plin’. The locale’s 19th century cellar, featuring barrel vaults and open brick walls, hosts more than 300 labels. Open Tues-Sun 10.30ammidnight. €€€. www.leviteletonne.com. Via San Francesco da Paola, 4. T: 011 8124621. Map G4
Plin & Tajarin This is small eatery resembling an artist’s studio rather than a restaurant. The kitchen turns out small masterpieces like ‘plin’ and ‘tajerin’, the staples of Piedmont’s culinary tradition, which are available with numerous fillings and sauces, including vegan and vegetarian options. Before, after or as an accompaniment, diners can order meat from select Piedmont producers, delicious ‘focaccia’ made with stone-ground flour and traditional desserts, including amaretto ice cream. Open Mon-Sat 12.45pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 7.45pm10.30pm. €€€. www.plinetajarin.it. Via G. Casalis, 59. T: 011 3828128. Map B3
Porto di Savona One of the city’s oldest restaurants, Porto di Savona opened in 1863 when Turin was the capital of Italy. The restaurant is on the city’s beautiful Piazza Vittorio, and the warm interior is laid out like a 19th-century tavern, with Liberty-style decor, wooden boiserie, mirrors, 1940s furnishing accessories and walls decorated with period paintings and photographs. Its menu – don’t be misled by its name – features classic Piedmont cuisine including ‘vitello tonnato’, ‘agnolotti’, homemade pasta, braised meat, ‘fritto misto’, ‘bolliti’ (boiled meats), ‘Finanziera’ (a hearty dish of veal offal and cockscomb cooked with Marsala wine, vinegar and herbs) and, in winter ‘bagna cauda’. Open daily 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pmmidnight. foodandcompany.com. €€€. Piazza Vittorio Veneto, 2. T: 011 8173500. Map H5
34 W H E R E T U R I N I O C TO B E R 2018
Scannabue Located in the trendy San Salvario district, Scannabue is extremely popular thanks to its warm, laid back atmosphere and its traditional, affordable cuisine, especially among the city’s young, hip crowd. In addition to classic regional recipes, including rabbit tuna, beef tartare and classic starters, it also serves a variety of fish dishes. Its wine list features a great selection of Piedmont labels including Arneis, Nebbiolo and Barbera. It’s advisable to book ahead. Open daily 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm-10.30pm. €€. scannabue. it. Largo Saluzzo, 25/h. T: 011 6696693. Map E7
Stefano Fanti al Circolo dei Lettori This unique restaurant is located at the Circolo dei Lettori, in the city’s 17th century Palazzo Graneri della Roccia. Formerly a private members club, the Circolo dei Lettori was a meeting place for Turin’s intellectuals, writers, poets and artists, seen in the rows of artist portraits that line the restaurant’s walls. Its traditional culinary offering is reinterpreted with a contemporary twist by chef Stefano Fantini. For an overview of regional specialties, make sure to try its tasting menu and, if you’re feeling bold, opt for the ‘Finanziera’. Open 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm-10.30pm. €€€. www.circololettori.it/il-ristorante. Via Bogino, 9. T: 011 4326828. Map G4
ETHNIC CUISINE Hafa Storie A Piedmont Moroccan restaurant. In Turin, this is fairly common because the city’s second largest foreign community is the Moroccan community, and the restaurant is located in Porta Palazzo, the city’s multi-ethnic district par excellence. While the Piedmontese offerings are created by Christian Milone, a young, talented starred chef hailing from Trattoria Zappatori in Pinerolo, the Moroccan dishes are prepared by Aicha the cook. Between a seven-vegetable couscous and a braise with polenta, this restaurant lays the foundations for a harmonious, productive cultural exchange. Open Tues-Fri 11am-3pm/5pm12.30am; Sat 10am-12.30am; Sun 11.30am-4.30pm. €€. hafastorie.it. Galleria Umberto I, 10/13. T: 011 19486765. Map F2
Kay Essenza Peruviana & Piscobar Located in the Crocetta district, this toplevel Peruvian restaurant is helmed by a team of young, knowledgeable staff. The menu embraces the traditional flavours of every region in Peru, from its coast to its mountains, right up to the Amazonian forests, interpreted with a gourmet twist. Signature dishes include Fassona beef tartare with fried marrow bone and spicy mayonnaise, marinated scallops and tapioca, ceviches and even a South American interpretation of Piedmont’s classic ‘bagnetto verde’ (green sauce), accompanied by a carefully selected choice of Piedmont wines. Open Tues-Sat 12 noon-2.45pm/7pm-10.30pm; Sun 12 noon-2.45pm. €€. kayessenzaperuvianapiscobar. business.site. Via E. Torricelli, 59. T: 011 5096002. Map F2
Oh Crispa! If you’re looking for Chinese street food that’s as good as any you’ll find in Shanghai, then you’ve come to the right place. The kitchen is headed by a Chinese/Asti couple who prepare Chinese crepes stuffed with meat, Tofu or vegetables, the
by now ubiquitous Baos, steamed buns filled with pork or crab, artisanal ravioli in broth, and specials that vary from day to day. All the dishes featured on the menu are made from carefully selected, strictly Piedmontese ingredients. Open Tues 6.30pm-11pm; Wed-Sat 12.30pm-3pm/6.30pm11pm; Sun 12.30pm-3pm/6.30pm-10.30pm. Via Belfiore, 16bis/d. €. T: 339 6112705. Off Map
Oriental Daily by Kiki In addition to classic sushi, sashimi and tempura, this fusion restaurant also serves spicy meat and fish curries, ramen, steaming noodles, Pad Thai, steamed ravioli, tartare, tataki and other creatives dishes. Indulge your sweet tooth with one of the venue’s original desserts including Azuki bean ice cream and sweet Chawanmush, an egg custard dish filled with cherries and wild berries. Excellent value for money. Open Mon-Fri 12.30pm-2.30pm/7pm10.30pm; Sat 7pm-10.30pm. €€. www.orientaldaily.it. Via Cesana, 72. T: 011 4470067. Off Map
PIZZA A Casa di Pulcinella An informal locale which, as its name suggests, serves a fabulous Neapolitan pizza, accompanied by a wide selection of craft and other beers. Thanks to a natural, slow-leavening process, the pizza dough is light, tasty and easy to digest. Ingredients include the classics for which Neapolitan pizza is renowned but also those of traditional Italian regional cuisine, ranging from a Margherita topped with Bufala Campana mozzarella to a version with Moncalieri sausage. Open Tues-Sat 12pm-3pm/6.30pm-10.30pm. €€. www.acasadipulcinella.it. Corso Rosselli, 82. T: 011 595457. Off Map
Bakery Restaurant & Pizza Tucked away in a peaceful area of the city, not far from the Porta Nuova station, this pizzeria/ restaurants boasts a wood-fired oven that turns out a slow-rising, Neapolitan-style pizza, featuring a soft, crunchy dough and high-quality ingredients. Diners can choose from among a variety of classic toppings, with a few regional references including sausage and ‘friarelli’ (broccoli rabe), or gorgonzola, pears and walnuts. Its well-stocked cellar boasts a number of highly select labels from Italy’s best wine producers. Open Mon-Fri 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm-11pm; Sat 7.30pm-11pm. €€. www.bakerytorino.it. Via Avigliana, 47/a. T: 011 4337074. Map B3
Crudo fa la Pizza! Crudo is an award-winning food company, boasting two osterie and a bistro in the city, renowned for their fresh high-quality ingredients, sourced from only the finest producers. It has now taken on the challenge of making one of Italy’s best-loved dishes. Nineteen different versions of pizza take diners on a culinary journey that encompasses the whole of the peninsula, from Favignana with Siccagno tomatoes, anchovy fillets, Mediterranean tuna fillets, capers and Sicilian olive oil to Aosta, with mozzarella, Fontina d’Aosta Dop and hand-sliced artisanal ham. Open daily 12 noon-3pm/7pm-11pm. €€. pizza.crudotorino.com. Via Palazzo di Città, 7/d. T: 340 2494060. Map F3
Gusto Madre Pizza is experiencing a renaissance. From a dish of the people to a gourmet specialty, interpreted with numerous dough varieties, flours and ingredients. If you’re feeling overwhelmed by all
DINING
Piedmont food glossary From a gastronomic viewpoint, the region of Piedmont boasts some of Italy’s finest, most diverse traditional foods. It is therefore no surprise that the worldfamous ‘Slow Food’ association, an international, non-profit organization committed to giving food back its proper value, was born here. It is also here that the Italian University of Gastronomic Sciences, the first, and possibly only, ‘university of taste’ in the world, was established. The amazing raw materials offered by the Piedmontese region include meat, cheese, wine and truffles, and are the basic ingredients used to create deliciously rich, tasty recipes. We’ve compiled a list of several Made in Piedmont dishes that are absolute must-tastes. By Chiara Zaccarelli BAGNA CAUDA This typical winter specialty consists of a sauce made from garlic, extra virgin olive oil and anchovies, to which butter, milk and chopped nuts can also be added. Bagna Cauda is served in a terracotta pot and used as a dip for raw or cooked seasonal vegetables. If, on the one hand, it encourages conviviality, on the other, especially if you’ve overdone the garlic, you might find people avoiding you because you reek of it! PIEDMONTESE MIXED FRY This uniquely rich local specialty of Piedmont consists of a combination of fried liver, lungs, brain, sweetbreads, liver veins, a slice of veal, sausage, sweet semolina, amaretti biscuits and apples, accompanied by pan-fried carrots or mixed vegetables. Not a dish for the faint-hearted.
AGNOLOTTI DEL PLIN These small filled ‘pouches’ are made with a thin sheet of dough, stuffed with a filling of braised meat (usually a mixture of beef, veal or pork) and Swiss chard, dressed with the pan juices of the braised meat, or butter and sage. The name ‘plin’ derives from the regional dialect for ‘pinch’ because to form each agnolotto you pinch the two sheets of pasta together. PIEDMONTESE GRAN BOLLITO MISTO This elaborate dish of mixed boiled meats is made from seven cuts of Piedmontese veal, including the thigh muscle, shoulder and breast, and seven ‘improvers’, tongue, musetto (a pork sausage made in part from a pig’s snout) and a game hen, cooked for several hours in boiling water. It is accompanied by seven tasty sauces, and a side of vegetables. One of the favourite dishes of Camillo Benso, Count of Cavour, and Vittorio Emanuele, Piedmont’s ‘bollito misto’ even has its own brotherhood.
Piedmontese Mixed Fry
Vitello Tonnato
Bagna Cauda
A Bain Marie, or hot water bath, is a slow, natural culinary technique that is used to cook delicate foods, over a low temperature, using the steam the Bain Marie creates. It preserves the softness of the dessert and facilitates the formation of a delicious crust on its surface.
VITELLO TONNATO This classic ‘antipasto’ of Piedmont cuisine is made from poaching the ‘girello’ cut of ‘Fassona’ veal (a prized Piemontese breed of veal) in a stock with aromatic herbs and white wine, sliced thinly and served cold with a traditional sauce made from tuna fish, egg yolks, capers, extra virgin olive oil, white wine, lemon juice, salt and pepper.
Bagna Cauda
BONET Bonet, pronounced bunet, is a soft, rich, deliciously old-fashioned dessert that can be eaten with a spoon. Bonet is made from sugar, eggs, milk, cocoa, rum and dry amaretti biscuits. An unusual feature of this recipe is that it’s baked in a Bain Marie in the oven.
Bonet
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DINING
Pastry shops
Renetta apple cake, Torteria Berlicabarbis
The traditional/age-old art of pastry making is deeply rooted in Turin, and the city’s confectionery is famous throughout the world. Sweet treats like ‘baci di dama’, marron glacés and ‘giandujotti’ were invented here and exported abroad, while others, which are more inherently Piedmontese, are well worth discovering. It’s therefore no surprise that the city is inundated with top-level pastry shops. Although it’s impossible to mention them all, we’ve compiled a list of several that are rated top in town. By Chiara Zaccarelli CAFFÈ PLATTI If you visit just one of Turin’s historic locales, then it has to be the illustrious, belle epoque Caffè Platti. Opened in 1870, it soon became a social and cultural reference point for 20th century Turin. Here, amidst mirrors, gilded stuccoes, inlaid walnut furniture and gold Louis XVI medallions, you can sample Piedmontese specialties like ‘bunet’, Meliga pastries, ‘bignole’ and Platti cake. Since 2017, the confectionery has been run by renowned patissier Guido Gobino, the king of
Farmacia del Cambio
Torinese chocolate. www.platti.it Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 72. T: 011 4546151. GHIGO This historic pastry shop, located just steps from the Mole, is famous for its hot chocolate, served with freshly whipped cream and marrons glacés (a candied chestnut covered with a sugar glaze). At Christmas, Ghigo excels itself with its famous ‘Nuvola di Ghigo’, a traditional ‘Pandoro’ covered with a butter icing and a generous sprinkling of icing sugar. www.pasticceriaghigo.it Via Po, 52/b. T: 011 887017. PASTICCERIA VENIER Pasticceria Venier, located in the heart of the centre, is another go-to destination to start (or end) your day on a sweet note. It’s famous for its ‘marocchino’ (coffee served in a small glass cup, with a dark chocolate base, topped with foamed milk and a sprinkling of bitter cocoa powder), but also its ‘briosche’, including its custard-filled ‘torciglione’ with a hint of lemon, and its Umbertino, a biscuit resembling a ‘bacio di dama’ but with, a double layer of chocolate and two amaretti instead of shortcake. Via Monte di Pietà, 22. T: 011 541592.
these options, there are places, like Gusto Madre, that will remove any doubt. Ingredients bestowed by Mother Nature, processed to a minimum and combined with the creativity and skill inherent in time-honoured dough-making techniques, are the reasons for the success of this healthy, easyto-digest, multi-award winning pizza. Open from Wednesday to Monday. €€. www.gustomadre.it. Via G. Mazzini, 31/A T: 011 18894434. Map G6
based batter, without eggs or milk, these mouthwatering waffles are deliciously light and topped with either sweet or savoury ingredients while you wait. Make sure to try the house special whose batter is mixed with cooked bacon and served with rocket leaves and Philadelphia cream cheese. Open Mon-Sat 11.30am-7.30pm. €. www.gofriemiassepiemontesi.it. Via San Tommaso, 7. T: 349 3926090. Map F4
TASTING EXPERIENCE & STREET FOOD
Mollìca
Gofreria piemonteisa If you feel like a quick, light snack while strolling around piazza Castello, then make sure to stop at Gofreria Piemontese. Based on a time-honoured tradition, ‘gofri’ are the ‘relatives’ of the more famous Belgian ‘gaufres’. Made from a yeast36 W H E R E T U R I N I O C TO B E R 2018
Cooked salame from Monferrato, double lard, hand-massaged Parma ham, Toma d’alpeggio cheese with pepper and creamy gorgonzola. At Mollica, in piazza Madama Cristina, you can choose to have your sandwich filled with these or numerous other ingredients, all sourced exclusively from small local Piedmont and Italian producers. The bread is also heavenly! Whether you opt for the ‘spaccatella’, the ‘morbidoso’ or the ‘focacciona’, there’s no way
TORTERIA BERLICABARBIS In dialect, ‘Berlicabarbis’ means to ‘lick your lips’. A particularly apt name for a pastry shop that turns out approximately 20 different cakes a day, including cheesecake, tarts filled with custard and fresh fruit, Renetta apple caked and ricotta and pear tarts. The venue is infused with a warm, homely Provence-style atmosphere where, amidst cast iron teapots, French tin boxes, brightly-coloured cups and vintage trays, you can purchase traditional Savoy biscuits, flower-based preserves, Leone candies and fruit preserved in honey. Vegan options are also available. berlicabarbis.com Corso Moncalieri, 214. T: 011 2074508. Via Catania, 10. T:011 231032 FARMACIA DEL CAMBIO A sophisticated Savoy-style ‘salotto’, created in the rooms of an old apothecary established in 1883, in the city’s beautiful piazza Carignano. Here, you’ll find a fabulous assortment of pastries by chef Fabrizio Galla including Veneziane, Sfogliatine, almond and orange cakes, bignès, ‘bonet’, fruit tartlets, millefeuille, hazelnut cakes and croissants. Also worth mention are the locale’s savoury offerings which include sandwiches, savoury snacks, crusty bread, bagels and more. A great place for lunch or an aperitivo. farmaciadelcambio.it. Piazza Carignano, 2. T: 011 19211250. that you can go wrong because they’re all supplied by historic Torinese bakery Andrea Bertino. Open Mon-Fri 12 noon-3pm/7pm-10pm; Sat 12 noon4pm/7pm-10.30pm. €. Piazza Madama Cristina, 2 bis. T: 333 7446737. Map F7
Street Fish Although this might seem strange in a city like Turin, the best place to go for a good, fusion-style fish dish is Street Fish, a venue renowned for its delicious fish dishes and informal atmosphere. Options on offer include fish tartare served in a corn tacos, ceviches, fish balls, a Hawaiian-style fish bowl, Thai noodles and house specials based on the catch of the day. Half of this small space is occupied by an open-plan kitchen that allows you to watch the chefs at work, while the other half features high counters with stools. Open daily 12 noon-3pm/7pm11pm. €. Via Conte G. Bogino, 4. T: 389 0010612. Map F5
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Editore: Where Italia srl. Supplemento di Where Milan - Reg. Trib. Milano No. 453, 19 July 2010 Where Italia Srl, iscritto al ROC n. 20182 del 14 settembre 2010 Direttore Responsabile: Andrea Jarach. info@wheremilan.com - www.wheremilan.com.
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Giovanni e Paolo R U G A V E TO Evangelica CAMPIELLO C H A IASan C dall'Orio RE SAN C A D LC R ANCANCIANO IO E M L E Luterana EM CAMPO S ID N U C O A LE Ospedale LED EZIO Santa Domini Maria ALEW IR People Mover Venezia Ferrovia C RUGA BELA D EM FONDAM Palazzo CAMPO EZOPalazzo CAMPO Mater S.MARIA NOVA Santa Maria del Pianto SAURO SAN GIACOMO CAMPO DELLA C NSanta A Soranzo LELA San Cassiano ENTARZONAZARIO DALL’ORIO PESCARIA Z R IAR G N A A CAMPO N G LC A S .G Grioni Capello A D A SANTA MARIA A LIN AIZ ASanti di Palazzo Maria MATER DOMINI P.le Roma IO CAMPO CAMPO FerroviaGiardino D Basilica dei e Paolo Soranzo Cappello EIM SAN CASSAN dei Miracoli CAMPO DES LA A LE MTI .VEN L FONADAG C IR ZATOC O R S E TT ESAN .SAN H IA San Giovanni Giovanni AC C C C A O LE C B A LIC D CAMPO E O ABOLDO LVIN LF ’B D LD O Grisostomo ALEO EC C R O N CESARE BATTISTI OCAMPO C ALED O C D N EC A H A’M LEC C SANTI GIOVANNI GIÀ A S U EA TE LEO TI BECARIE IENC .D CORTECANA ENTADELALATEC LLAEB LI Malibran C DELLA Ponte EL’AG O FO CE R BELLA VIENNA Teatro TEA VELALU N D A O N M ELAR CAMPO E U N T C A A della Costituzione LE C A D S E SAN GIACOMETO E LER C.DELSCALET CORTE N Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto U O B A C EE PAOLO ASEN V E .LACRO C CAMPO CORTE SECONDA TEC D FO ELDEL San Giacomo PSIEO EN DEL di MILION O SANT’AGOSTINO CARAMPANE SAM A D IO C LNIO LED N O TER P B A M R ÀD B A di Rialto R R TEATRO A IA ELALAC D ELET C Casa Marco Polo ELEC CAMPO O LEC RIO A C LED R SANTA A A LES A E LC M R O A F A C E A AM S GIUSTINA Giardino T N TERÀSSant'Andrea IE R E E S CAMPIELLO FR C A A CAMPO O N P G N N A C AN S R Z DETTO DE Francesco E S E D O C S D OSan E CAMPIELLO TIER LE ALBRIZZI RIALTO Fontego A BARBARIA EC AN A LE D DEL E LA L NUOVO A C AC A Vigna della S T'AD O TE N C D A LO LE A dei Tedeschi Z O NCAMPO C E N A LA A C R E O SOL EAC R O C EPapadopoli A S D E EN LF VN U A A C O C V A E E DELLA LE PAZO ELR LM E E E S LFO SAN P O L OSant’Aponal M D C T CELAFO A E I C IT A A .M N LD M SANTA CAMPIELLO TE ETAD C P A H IA E G R IO G O CAMPO T IN ED M S A N TA N Ponte L U A C GIUSTINA O VOLTO R N CONFRATERNITA ALER G O C S SAN STIN A LE .P A N FVN A LB G SAC G di Rialto CORTE IA CAMPO E CAMPO IO NCAMPO CORTE ZO D D LIZ.D A ARIA R A A M TREVISAN CAMPO DEL SAN APONAL San Nicola N ADPIO OC.ESD N DELLA CELESTIA IO BORTOLOMIO IM LE TE A PRESTRIN DEL TR R People Mover Venezia À S A CAMPO PIAZZALE A N XSAN N da Tolentino OA TO CAMPO INN RAM M À SAN CALEDLPERDO Rialto OIM CAMPIELLO CORTE CAMPIELLO C San Silvestro .V SAN POLO CAMPO SANTA MARIA A S D O MORION A R I ROMA EIM R DEI LIZ S L DE Lorenzo IO A FORMOSA IZ A D AA A S N TER A T CORTE A G IU FONDAMENTA S SAN SILVESTRO S T IN C A À ADEL MELONI N .D S E LIO LIO A LG DEI PRETI N T R O NC H E T T O CAMPO T'A DE LA TERNITA A LIA C N D ZOCAMPO A RioC CAMPO R SANTA LELA C L O E R A VIDA L E A L R G A S A N E N Fontego Z OSAN Santa Maria A LA C Rocco Basilica .Santa deSlIN L A R R Chiesa Rettoriale G G LORENZO AD AM Maria CORTE Dolfin Formosa Palazzo R eM O L N A S AZINM O Z N E C O L O G R O Palazzo Rava ALETIN SABION dei Frari CORTE di S. Polo FO della Fava unSan DEL MONDO CAMPO AC V N E T R O C O CAMPOIELLO GrimaniSan LADEL C .A D D Rialto E IO C CORTE L G NUOVO eghete C A TO C ’O L A M E I LIC DE LA PASINA EDE R T AC R C A H S E O LED A A ETO SAN SALVADOR R A R (Palazzo Cavalli) C DEI FRARI oCORTE della Consolazione TA Z B A ioN R IManin MB TA ALEDO A S M A A D N ECAMPIELLO IC R D S eE N AFAVA B A A lN LV B CORTE LB M EEZO A C LE D S A N E AFA RUBBI L R E T Z D R O O CAMPO N O N ag N S.Silvestro E LE AC A S T E L L O LICINI A M Palazzo C aIN A D ALED N Teatro zO San Giovanni SAN ROCCO eTnOS C FO QUERINI SATOTASC ALIZA U C STAMPALIA Querini ALDEL San Salvador Carlo Goldoni di Malta D M AS AR ALEM Palazzo EM A ZAR CORTE CALEDEL’ANZO N Stampalia EZO C CORTE P IAD CORTE A OC N TEATRO ELC TA Querini-Dubois FRUTARIOLI LO CORTE AP I Biennale di Venezia Palazzo NC R ITEELD IE ELTEAETR S N C A LE CORTE DEL N LA IO O E L nde Grimani R U IF E LE A C IDELLE N IC A L D Z R CAMPIELLO EIP L GATE O POZZO ROVERSO ALED CAMPO A C Z Educational Arsenale C D A U ÀD C A A LIZ A DUE POZZI Arsenale diLa A L EB DIO NUOVA LE S O TER LA I CAMPOIELLO SAN TOMÀ Venezia T E R D TA IO IP E E M SANLU D R IP G LE DE AL A ITAEPCORTE R C LREM E TIPantalon A LEB EC ER ALA C L.D .D San Giuliano AC A ITE S Tomà E EIPG SA G CanalGraSan ALEDESan C O San LTRAMONTIN O N .D C ALEC N E Z N ZU Z O A NS A E G LM A D E G LR A LE A C CORTE San Luca Giovanni Novo LIAN DEL IZAR Beneto LM La Biennale di Venezia E CAMPIELLO R R ED O iN FORNO o L CAMPO DELLA SERA SanGiustinian d N FRATERNA ISan Sant'Angelo C e R A iT M CHIESA Giardino delle Vergini SAN ZUANE S ARTIN olR L’O eIn Teatro Tese E D NOVO tiN Palazzo Palazzo A T nU F CAMPO N O iO E GRAGOLINA M A CORTE D D A N A LIZ M FO O PISC ASANM E C R A D N SAN BENETO DEL IZI A IN T .P CAMPO CALEDELTMARCO A S A EL’A IA N Nervi N O A TAR N TCAMPO FORNO E A LE D E LF IG H RC TO N O LED E R A Giorgio A N N M PANTALON IC N A V iodalle D O SAN IC CAMPO LCORTE N O C FO G SESTIERE R A ele A Persico Scattolin M R INFortuny A N Palazzo .G dei Greci N S E LO MANIN C R G R N A LO LO O EC DI SAN LA CERTOSA E TE A D AC LEL P IC A TIE EVECCHIO C N A A O N A À D N S. Toma' R A U N A C A C L SAN O C ES TEER E D R O LLE E LA A IZ A ELSTR TAP C A LELO N LA PROVOLO E A .D TERC O I DEI CORTE M A C N D C A A D IG N LER Arsenale di Venezia Vergini N AN A EP M C LO FO N A ITR A IB LEC A Palazzo E PIAZZETTA E D G O .D I SX ATRODELL’ALBERO N N T SIN C A C A R CAMPO IS A IN IE LIZ R A C Palazzo Balbi C EPES A LEONCINI R S D S A Basilica di San Pietro di Castello A A CORTE L E À .N T E D R SAN R A N Mocenigo Z LER E M R A A R O IM P A E O L D FO O R ALESAN P G TE E L A C TORRETTA IO R CAMPO CAMPO I C R A E A A LELA C A FO LE R E N LC PELOBasilica E GALLO O E A D A L D San Zaccaria IC D IE E C P E T A LF C A M ALEC ITI R ’BANDIERA A O R A M LED G LA OC TAD CORTE C A E N E San Martino R N M O IA A D S EL’A E MORO LED A A N DELLE ANCORELORENZO C C RO ALEG S ALTEC C E SERAGiovanni FO O CAMPO ALEB N L SAN D C IO A M R E TA N U TAA FONDAMENTA di A’Z LFR CAMPO DI R E R D VE S E Maria N ECH A ELR ALED LE A A M C L U E di Venezia O DEI C O SANTA CAMPIELLO R San IA S.AM ELC Bacino ELE O - Arsenale I C della Pietà R R E T E H LE A C G AFETIERM A RFantin E DE LA SAN PIETRO DI CASTELLO T N DEI S ASANT’ANZOLO NC C O OSan Marco ISanta IF LaBattista Biennale E MARGHERITA in Bragora D CALEM O LE VIDA A SERAD C SQUELINI ARC R E Z E NM FR E D ELBO O OOOrseolo A RS ARSENALOTTI IN R C A IS LC IO G ZESALIZADAC E ’O L N TEG O PalazzoR Ducale E D O Palazzo FO D D CAMPO O R V E A C N N LE R R A IA LIA A E D C A H LE R A PIAZZASA M LEB E H C AP E CAMPO S C A A N TA IE R H C C IVAD A A LISC LA R DEI iniCARMINI S O TO E EG IO N R D EG A LE ELEC Grassi R LE A TA San LISC C arm IVAD ED TA H Santo Stefano R TIR IAVO LSan A A IA N C elC INN I INA C R O F A R A A TAM E LED L N iod A C A Samuele TAB Correr M O ELA AS Ca'Ca' Rezzonico T A Museo M IT IN UINTAVALE N R E P R EN A V O M Teatro la ID M N A M A D AC O A N R C O S. Zaccaria FO O ’ Fenice E D Santa MariaSan M E T CAMPO A C N L IS O A S. Samuele C S A O M S. Zaccaria (Pieta') E CAMPIELLO P FO O LM AM D A CALEQ S C E A SANTO STEFANO LA dei Carmini T DEI CALEGHERI A IN Rezzonico C N NAR (Danieli) AR IS O P SA M A San Moisè MLO O D E A L T A Barnaba N A FONDAMENTA FO San Maurizio N D CAMPO AM I R E N TA IO R Palazzo Loredan D RIN E LA A T A N DEI FORNI ED A H I H N G LO MOISE’ IE LO A CORTE P A M TAG C C N E M LA OSAN A Z D O R ’ A N I MICHIEL N IM FO O V LO X A LEP G IA R C O C H LELA Santa Maria IC A Arsenale A CAMPO LIS B C A G E N Museo Storico Navale di NN R AD A IV R B N San Francesco A del Giglio SAN MAURIZIO TA A ESA ’M A CALEFALIER CAMPO AS IC LSan IN H C A G IO G A A N .D S N LED A C D CAMPO C O F Angelo Nicolò SANTA MARIAS. LELU A Venezia CAMPO N A T'A N A S A T N E M A N O FN DRIO IL C DEL GIGLIO San Vidal C CORTE A dei Mendicoli CIMITERO LELA Idi Paola PISANI ALD BAROZZI IB R R A D Marco (Vallaresso) 100 m O EG Palazzo N V P EIstituto CAMPO O EN IRaffaele U A EP S U A LEC C IS DE L’ANZOLO CAMPO Universitario VIAG Corner Ca' Giustinian RAFAEL CAMPIELLO SAN CONTARINI SAN VIDAL Di DSEBASTIAN ORSODURO della CAMPIELLO I Architettura N Z A G A M IS Ca’Granda O IETR LLED A C San Sebastiano Accademia Palazzo ILIIO A S B N A E LA C A Ponte A LIZ CAMPO A Pisani D A S A ID IN N AZZ DELLA dell'Accademia CARITÀ G M OIAA TR D LLEIE A C B ES U D OS R O S R O A G IOCAMPO Chiesa di Ognissanti AF S C A EL Gritti LED A C IE H Maria RIVDEA O D A M E N T del Giglio A A D E Gallerie IN O G N CanalGrandeSanta R IS A A N TI FO Salute M O dell'Accademia C ISETEM E FO Palazzo S SANN BESAGIO N D A M N E T A S A LU T E CAMPO Genovese C A LE PE N E D D Collezione Peggy .D E S DELLA L P IU IS T EO O R C G G San Trovaso N SALUTE A N IS T'A A Guggenheim ARTIR Punta N TIFO G ASAN N DI T ES CAMPO EN M SAN VIOC A C A S T IO N Gregorio A LE A D E LB LE D N N D N C A A N A FO I M I .S LED San Giuseppe E N FO TAB E Basilica di della Dogana LA D CAMPO A O C H N M di E Castello LINSAN IE TROVASO EN S AF TAZA Maria S. Basilio O D N N E .V R IE A D IL O E N San TER della Salute EALO CAMPO O P S IO ID N I Santa N N P E N M A U TO E C TEO T S À A C N R SAN ISEPO E À T T'A IO R N A TE N LG S IO O O U LA A P E LLR A Santa Maria C A O D LEC LU A P PU V IA Giardini RC LEXXIVA del Rosario A L E IZ A ZIS Sant’Agnese D A D L M A G F G C IO O R N O Chiesa di Maggiore C A L E D Chiesa di Santa CAMPO Maria DI E LE N A V A R O R IO TER San S A N À V IO SANT'AGNESE N della FO Visitazione D A M E N TA S. Giorgio Giorgio Z A TE R EA IG E SA TIUFO Giudecca Hilton Zattere N F O D N D A A M M E E N N T O B TA E A E R C A United States LA E D LE A C T Z E A G IU LIA TER N AVAPORETTO C A CAMPIELLO EA LEM O N TEP S LO A U B Pavilion IO DEL P IR S ITO S A N Russia TOFO Santo Pavilion N D A M EN T Giudecca Hilton A Z A ISOLA DI TE R ESpirito Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo Spirito Santo Japan C SAN GI ORGIO C A SACCA LED ELA FO Pavilion .D S A C E A LC N A VANI R D S O IO AM G EN M AGGIO RE FISOLA TASANB A LEL C A LED A R G A E D LA E ILA C H V R IE ENTASAN A S N TO A C E R I P O IAG IN H IO LEC A NDAM ER O N E TELA FO LEG VR A Sant'Elena C A C N .ZU ER I G SACCA San Gerardo N N A Sant'Eufemia Zitelle Giudecca PalancaRedentore Le Zitelle 'ELENA C CAMPIELLO A SAN BI AG IOSAN FO LEC N SAN CATALDO D A CAMPIELLO M Teatro Verde A EN R GERARDO TAS N AR A O VIALESANT Aeroporto Nicelli Venezia Lido N T'EU TAZIETLLE FEM IA FO EN C A LEC DAM O N N V ER TITE FO V delle Parco N D A M E N T A P O N TE Rimembranze P IC O L O Lido S. Nicolo' VIALEVIT IALEIVNO G I U FO D ECCA N E TE C R A VBRE IM D O P C A M LEC A C N D A M E O N TAS ETARO S TO M A N IELO SANT’ELENA N G O O IA P AM C O S MO FO M D A A RIOVENE EM N LEC A C ALEM Scuola Navale Militare TO NC A R G "Francesco Morosini" C A LED O M A E R LA C R LE O A C C E Redentore Santissimo O R E U F Q O N D A M E N A T P A LA LES D A A C C A C LE A M O E R LES C U O Santa Croce LA C IA A R LES E D N C U O L A C A LE A L B E R O ELAFO LED A C C A LE O R T I Hundertwasser' Garden
NUOVA IS OLA D E L T R O NC H E T T O ISO LAND VAELTRO NHETO People O Mover Venezia C Parcheggio Bus Turistici
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MUSEUM PASS A combined ticket that offer s access to all the permanent collections of Venice’s civic and affiliated museums. The Pass is valid for 6 months and allows one entry per museum site. Full price ticket: 2 4 euros.
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Burano
The island of Burano is famous for its artisanal lace work and particular kind of biscuit. Don’t miss the Lace Museum.
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San Barnaba Simply sign in to get your free code: getmycode.opencitymilan.com/register or scan the following QRcode
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Known by the Venetians simply as ‘I Frari’, this landmark features 17 monumental altars and is the largest church in the city. This medieval monument in Gothic-Venetian style houses the tombs and funerary monuments of famous people including Titian, Monteverdi and Canova. www.basilicadeifrari.it
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ENTERTAINMENT
A vertical journey amidst the ‘stars’ Featuring a spectacular layout, this unique ‘vertical museum’, housed in the city’s landmark Mole Antonelliana, is dedicated to the history of cinema. By Elena Peverata
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ne of the most important film museums in the world, the Museo Nazionale del Cinema is not only renowned for its rich collection of exhibits, but also for its unique location in the beautiful Mole Antonelliana, one of the city’s most impressive historic landmarks. Featuring a unique, vertical layout, it spirals upwards, creating a spectacular display of its extraordinary collections through an evocative, interactive itinerary. Organized by levels, not floors, in addition to a vast film library containing more than 7,000 titles, the museum’s rich heritage includes collections dedicated to the archaeology of cinema (level + 5 metres), the ‘Aula del Tempio’ (+10), the focal heart of the museum, with areas dedicated to the great genres of cinematic history, and the 38 W H E R E T U R I N I O C TO B E R 2018
‘Rampa’ which, like a movie, unfolds to reveal the dome, offering a breathtaking view over the museum from above. The ‘Macchina del Cinema’ (+15) is dedicated to the film industry, while the ‘Galleria dei Manifesti’ is located on level +18. A major highlight of the visit is the building’s panoramic elevator (currently closed for maintenance from 17 September to 21 October) which takes visitors on a ride, up 85 metres, to the ‘Tempietto’, an observation deck offering a breathtaking view over the city and its surrounding Alpine range. The braver of heart can also access the panoramic deck on foot from the ground floor to discover the places hidden inside the cavity of the dome. Open Mon, Wed to Sun 9am-8pm (Sat until 11pm), closed on Tues.
>> Museo Nazionale del Cinema www.museocinema.it c/o Mole Antonelliana, via Montebello, 20. T: 011 8138560/138561.
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN
AFTER DINNER Hiroshima Mon Amour Founded in the Eighties, Hiroshima Mon Amour is a go-to events space for lovers of music, theatre and culture. Located near the Lingotto railway station, over the years it has become a reference point for events, music festivals, DJ sets, concerts featuring Italian and international artists, exhibitions and clubbing. www.hiroshimamonamour.org. Via Bossoli, 83. T: 011 3176636. Off Map
Jazz Club Torino Located just steps from Piazza San Carlo, the Jazz Club is justifiably one of Turin’s best venues for Italian jazz. A meeting place for lovers of the genre, its offers a diverse program of concerts with an emphasis on contemporary trends and up-and-coming artists. The venue also hosts a restaurant and lounge bar where guests can relax and enjoy a meal or a drink while listening to the music. Open Wed-Thurs 8.30pmmidnight; Fri 8.30pm-2am; Sat 8.30pm-3am; Sun: see calendar. www.jazzclub.torino.it. Via S. Francesco da Paola corner of via Giolitti. T: 011 882939. Map G5
Les Arcades This informal locale in the Porta Nuova district, made headlines a few years ago due to Tamango, a hallucinogenic cocktail, that everyone, including the BBC, talked about. Based on a secret recipe and prepared with a mix of African plants and roots, Tamango gets its red colour from roselle leaves, a species of hibiscus, which apparently prompts a sense of euphoria and a desire to dance. Open Tues-Sat 9.30pm-4am. Via Fratelli Calandra, 10. T: 339 852806. Map G6
choice of wines and liqueurs, accompanied by a fabulous selection of finger food, focacce and hot, bite-sized pizzas. Open Mon-Thurs 5pm-to 2am; Fri 5pm-3am; Sat 10am-3am; Sun 10am-2am. www.la-drogheria.it. Piazza Vittorio Veneto, 18/d. T: 011 8122414. Map H5
Lanificio San Salvatore Located in the trendy, vibrant San Salvario district, this former wool mill serves high-quality cocktails accompanied by a rich buffet of large, tantalizing dishes that are also suitable for vegetarians. Highlights include an interesting wine list, including numerous organic labels, plus a good selection of classic cocktails. The venue also organizes themed evenings and live concerts. Open: Mon-Thurs 6pm2am; Fri-Sat 6pm-3am; Sun 11am-2am. Via Sant’Anselmo, 30. T: 011 0867568. Map F7
THEATRES Teatro Carignano One of the most important theatres in Turin, it was the place where the king went to watch plays (opera was only performed at the Teatro Regio). Dating back to 1700, it is run by the prestigious Teatro Stabile di Torino and located in the city’s beautiful piazza Carignano, opposite Palazzo Carignano. Teatro Carignano has a reputation for producing theatre of the highest standards and
presents an unrivalled range of classics, new plays and family entertainment. Open Tues-Sat 1pm7pm. www.teatrostabiletorino.it. Piazza Carignano, 6. T: 011 5169555. Map F4
Teatro Nuovo Teatro Nuovo is Turin’s temple of dance. In addition to the Teatro Nuovo Foundation, it is home to the Teatro Nuovo Company, the Regional Dance Academy, the Teatro Nuovo School of Fine and Performing Arts, Choral Music and Musical Theatre and the Valentino Cinema. Though mainly used to stage musicals, it also hosts concerts, ballets and operettas. Open daily. www.teatronuovo.torino.it. Corso M. d’Azeglio, 17. T: 011 6500211. Off Map
Teatro Regio Located in the highly central Piazza Castello, Teatro Regio is the ‘grande’ dame of Turinese theatres. The venue was commissioned by Vittorio Amedeo II at the beginning of the 18th century and designed by Filippo Juvarra. The theatre’s history is inextricably linked to several of the world’s most illustrious musicians including Arturo Toscanini, Giacomo Puccini and Richard Strauss who conducted and staged their operas here. Today it presents an exciting international program of operas, ballets and concerts. Open Tues-Fri 10.30am-6pm; Sat 10.30am4pm. www.teatroregio.torino.it. Piazza Castello, 215. T: 011 8815557. Map F3
Piano35 Italy’s highest panoramic lounge bar is housed in the skyscraper designed by Renzo Piano to host the offices of the Intesa Sanpaolo bank. Here you can taste amazing cocktails created by multi-starred bar tender Mirko Turconi accompanied by an assortment of delectable finger food. The venue offers breathtaking views over a winter garden and the city of Turin. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-midnight. www. grattacielointesasanpaolo.com. Corso Inghilterra, 3. T: 0114387837. Map B4
APERITIVI Ballantine’s Established in 1971, this was the first American Bar ever opened in Italy. A reference point in the centre of the city for aperitivi, it offers a great selection of wines and cocktails but also fresh fruity non-alcoholic drinks for teetotalers. Also a popular lunchtime spot. Open Mon-Sat 8am-noon; Sun 5pm-10pm. Corso G. Matteotti, 25. T: 011 5628849. Map D5
Beena This venue offers a delectable Indian-style apericena (more than an aperitivo and less than a dinner). Instead of a buffet, the menu includes a cocktail and seven appetizers, served at your table and cooked while you wait in a traditional Tandoori oven. A full immersion into the aromas and flavours of India.Open Tues-Sun 6pm-2am. www.beena.it. Via Lombroso, 22. T: 349 7078645. Map F7
La Drogheria Tucked away under the arcades of piazza Vittoria, La Drogheria is a stylish cocktail bar with an international feel. The atmosphere is just right and created with a mixture of vintage furnishings and contemporary works of art. In addition to cocktails, it offers a wide
A workshop of culture This is one of the landmark spaces of the new spirit of Turin devoted to contemporary art. The OGR-Officine Grandi Riparazioni (Major rail repair workshops) is an imposing late 19th century industrial complex that was transformed with one thousand days of construction work into a new multi-functional space dedicated to culture and creativity. A major rejuvenation for the city. Its story can be told through creative ideas – high-tech solutions, environmental sustainability, the preservation of historical heritage, versatile space and total accessibility, or figures: 35,000 square metres, an investment of 100 million ADVERTORIAL euros, seating for 2,750 spectators and 99 for conferences rooms. However, nothing can equal the actual experience of being there. In addition to serving as hub for visual and performing arts, the OGR is a start-up incubator where you can admire semi-permanent installations by William Kentridge, listen to a concert or purchase a book. It’s also where you can eat at any time of day or night, at the Snodo restaurant. Located just four minutes from the Porta Susa railway station, it’s definitely worth a visit! OGR-Officine Grandi Riparazioni. Corso Castelfidardo, 22. T: 011 0247108. www.ogrtorino.it
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SIGHTSEEING |
MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS
A record-breaking museum Turin’s Egyptian museum, founded in the early 19th century when collecting mummies and Egyptian amulets was a fashionable pastime, is a star of the museum world. By Elena Peverata
H
ave you heard of Jean-François Champollion? A French archaeologist and Egyptologist and the director of the Egyptian sector of the Louvre in Paris, he is the man who deciphered the mystery of hieroglyphics through the Rosetta Stone in 1822. It is also thanks to Champollion’s expertise that we owe the defining statement: “The road to Memphis and Thebes passes through Turin.” When mentioning Turin, he was referring to its unique and extraordinary Egyptian Museum, the world’s first Egyptian museum founded in 1824, the second in terms of the value and number of artifacts (around 40,000) outside of Cairo, and the eighth most widely visited museum in Italy. It’s so well-known that in a classification drawn 40 W H E R E T U R I N I O C TO B E R 2018
up by TripAdvisor, it was ranked number one among Italy’s most popular museums, ninth in Europe and fourteenth in the world. The British newspaper The Times listed it as one of the 50 best museums on the planet. Despite its longstanding history and historic headquarters – the imposing Palazzo delle Accademia delle Scienze, dating back to the 17th century – the museum is extremely modern in terms of both its layout and immersive visitor experience. Remodelled by Oscar-winning set designer Dante Ferretti, in 2015, the exhibition space was doubled, following massive renovations, and is now spread over four levels, three above ground and one below ground, organized in chronological order. Here you’ll find mummies, tombs, papyrus sheets and everything related
to ancient Egypt (included embalmed animals) from the Paleolithic to the Coptic era. If you’re so overwhelmed that you don’t know where to begin your tour, get an audio guide. It’s free and allows you to choose and personalize your itinerary to suit individual requirements. A tip? The Restoration Area on the first floor that allows visitors to watch animal mummies being restored. Open Tues-Sun 9am-6.30pm, Mon 9am-2pm. The ticket office closes one hour before the museum. Museum full ticket price: €15. >> Museo Egizio Via Accademia delle Scienze, 6. T: 011 4406903. www.museoegizio.it .
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN ALL CONTRIBUTIONS RELATED TO MUSEUMS AND EVENTS ARE BY Elena Peverata Lifestyle & Culture Editor Where ® Italia
Allianz Juventus Stadium Designed to host up to 41,507 spectators, the Allianz Stadium is the sixth largest stadium in Italy and the largest in Piedmont. Better known as the Juventus Stadium, it is owned by the Juventus Football Club whose home matches have been played here since 2011, the year when the facility was opened. One of the most avant-garde, eco-compatible facilities in the world, in addition to being one of the two architectural symbols of modern-day Turin, the Stadium is one of the city’s major hubs of tourist attraction. The complex also houses Area 12, a shopping mall featuring a hypermarket, shops and several restaurants. The J-Museum, the first official football museum of the ‘bianconera’ team is hosted inside the east area. www.juventus.com/it/stadiume-museum. Corso Gaetano Scirea, 50. T: 899 999897. Off Map
Basilica di Superga Commissioned by Vittorio Amedeo II as a thanksgiving to the Virgin Mary for Turin’s deliverance from the French siege of 1706, the Basilica is one of the many masterpieces by architect Filippo Juvarra, who designed it according to the style of the era with a colonnaded portico, cloisters (the building still houses a friars’ convent) and a dome. Situated on one of the hills surrounding Turin and framed by the Alpine mountain range, the Basilica dominates the city and offers visitors a breathtaking view that is even more stunning when viewed from the top of the dome (131 steps). After visiting the tombs of the Savoy family, the Popes’ chamber and the royal apartments, you can walk around the building to see the memorial that pays tribute to the ‘Grande Torino’. In 1949, a plane carrying the entire Turin football team on their return from an away match crashed into the side of the church, killing all on board. Although the Basilica can be reached by car or public transport, one of the most picturesque ways of accessing it is by the Rack Tramway, an original 1934 tram which rattles the 3km up the hillside. Strada Basilica di Superga, 73. T: 011 8997456. Tramway: Piazza Modena, 6. Off Map
Fondazione Sandretto Re Rebaudengo This is a reference point and a meeting place for connoisseurs and lovers of contemporary art. The foundation was opened to the public in 2002 and is housed in the former industrial neo-minimalist spaces of the Fergat factory. The building features a large space for temporary exhibitions, and its modular structure was designed to host concerts, performances, meetings and seminars. Open Thurs 8pm-11pm; Fri-Sun Noon-7pm. Full ticket price: €5; Free entry on Thursday. www.fsrr.org. Via Modane, 16. T: 011 3797600. Off Map
GAM - Galleria Civica d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea GAM boasts an extraordinary collection of 45,000 works by renowned 19th and 20th-century Italian and European artists, including Balla, Severini Boccioni, De Chirico, Dix, Ernst and Klee. Highlights include paintings, sculptures, drawings, installations, videos and photos, plus one of the most important collections of video art. In addition to the above, this must-visit museum offers a fabulous program of major exhibitions by Italian and international artists. The Art Library and the Photographic Archives of Turin’s Civic Museums are headquartered at GAM. Open Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. Closed on Monday. Museum full ticket price: €10. www.gamtorino.it. Via Magenta, 31. T: 011 4429518. Map C5
J-Museum (Juventus Museum) Located in the Allianz Stadium complex, in the northwestern area of Turin, the J-Museum is dedicated to the history and triumphs of the Juventus Football Club. Opened in 2012, it is one of the world’s best and most innovative sports museums. State-of the-art technology, memorabilia and an adrenalin-filled atmosphere offer fans a unique, memorable experience. By purchasing a combined Museum and Stadium Tour ticket you can also visit several areas of the Allianz Stadium that are generally off-limits to the public. Open from 16 September to 15 March, Mon-Fri 10.30am-6pm; Sat-Sun and Holydays 10.30am-7.30pm. Closed on 25 December and every Tuesday (unless matchday). The
ticket office closes one hours before the museum. Matchday opening hours: see official site. Full ticket price: €15. www.juventus.com/it/stadium-e-museum. Via Druento 153. T: 011 4530486. Off Map
Lingotto This complex of cream coloured concrete and glass buildings, built in 1916, based on a project by Matté Trucco to house the FIAT factory (now FCA), still symbolizes the wealth of the city. Reconverted by Renzo Piano in the 1980s, it now hosts the pavilions of Lingotto Fiere, the headquarters of major events including Automotoretrò (www.automotoretro. it) and the International Book Fair; the ‘8 Gallery’ shopping mall, where you can admire the spiral ramp that leads to the autodrome (www.8gallery.it) and the ‘Pinacoteca Giovanni e Marella Agnelli’, a small art gallery packed with masterpieces. On exiting the Pinacoteca you can visit the rooftop test track and admire the ‘Bolla’, the bubble-shaped, blue glass meeting room. The old Carpano plants, lying adjacent to the Lingotto complex, are now occupied by ‘Eataly’s’ vast food market. (www.eataly.net). Lingotto: Via Nizza, 294. Off Map
MAO - Museo d’Arte Orientale Opened in 2008, in the 18th century Palazzo Mazzonis, the museum houses more than 2,000 works from several Asian countries, dating from the fourth millennium BC to the 20th century AD. The exhibition space is divided into five different sections featuring exhibits from different areas of Asia including Southern Asia, China, Japan, the Himalayan region and Asia’s Islamic countries. Open Tues-Fri 10am-6pm, Sat-Sun 11am-7pm. Closed on Monday. www.maotorino.it. Palazzo Mazzonis, via San Domenico, 11. T: 011 4436932. Map E2
Mole Antonelliana The Mole has been an architectural landmark of the city since 1889. Named after its creator, architect Alessandro Antonelli, The Mole was purchased by the Municipality of Turin and made into a monument of national unity. At the time of its construction it was the highest brick building in Europe, standing
TORINO + PIEMONTE CARD
Castello di Rivoli - Museo d’Arte Contemporanea The headquarters of Turin’s Museum of Contemporary Art since 1984, the Castello di Rivoli, a masterpiece of Baroque art designed by Filippo Juvarra in 1718, is located outside the city, at the entrance to Val di Susa. The museum offers a rich collection of works documenting the latest artistic trends. Highlights include works by Sol Lewitt, Richard Long, Michelangelo Pistoletto, Transavanguardia, Maurizio Cattelan, Vanessa Beecroft, as well as new generation artists. Open Tues-Fri 10am-5pm, Sat-Sun 10am-7pm. Closed on Monday, 1 January, 1 May, 24-25 and 31 December. Full ticket price: €8.50. www.castellodirivoli.org. Piazza Mafalda di Savoia, Rivoli. T: 011 9565280. Off Map
This card can be purchased online or at Turin’s Tourist Offices. With this pass you get free entry to Turin’s most important museums and exhibitions, castles, fortresses and the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont for 1*, 2, 3 or 5 consecutive days. It also offers reduced-price tickets to several other cultural sites in Piedmont, discounts on Turin’s main tourist services, plus other benefits. For more information www.turismotorino.org *The one-day pass is valid for a maximum of three entries to the Turin museum circuit.
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at a height of 167 metres. Built according to eclectic 19th century architectural techniques, the Mole is distinguished by its unique shape. Set on a squat brick base, the Mole rises through layers of windows and pseudo-Greek columns to a huge ribbed cupola and a needlelike spire. On the top, a twelve-pointed star is silhouetted against the Turinese skyline making the Mole a majestic, unmistakable landmark attraction. Inside, a panoramic, glass elevator takes visitors on a ride through the roof of the museum’s vast atrium and up 85 metres inside the tower to the 360-degree observation platform at the top. The view of Turin and its surrounding Alpine range is absolutely spectacular. Visitors can also access the panoramic deck on foot by climbing the 573 steps located inside the cavity of the cupola (by reservation from Monday to Friday, and without reservation on Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays). Since 2000, the Mole Antonelliana has hosted the National Museum of Cinema. Via Montebello, 20. T: 011 8138563. Map H4
Museum, the Savoy Gallery, Palazzo Chiablese and, lastly, the Royal Gardens to be connected. Visitors are now able enjoy a unique museum tour, comprising a 3km route spread over 30,000 sq.m. of exhibition space and 7 hectares of Royal Gardens. The origins of the Royal Museums date back to 1563, when Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy moved the capital from Chambéry to Turin. This marked the beginning of a major urban transformation and the enrichment of the dynastic collections, which now include artifacts dating from the prehistoric era to the present time. Between the 17th and 18th centuries, the appearance of the residence, with the imposing Royal Palace at its centre, was expanded and changed, thanks to the work of several of the era’s most illustrious architects. A Savoy Residence until 1865, the Royal Museums are now owned by the Italian government. On-site amenities include a food court in the former Regia Frutteria. www.museireali. beniculturali.it. Piazzetta Reale, 1. Map F3
Monte dei Cappuccini
Founded in 1860, the museum is housed in Palazzo Madama, one of the city’s oldest and most beautiful ‘palazzi’ (see listings). The building features multiple architectural styles, from Roman to the Baroque additions by Filippo Juvarra. The collection – featuring masterpieces and priceless objet d’art – includes more than 60,000 works of art, sculptures and decorative arts from the Byzantium age to the nineteenth century. Open daily 10.00am-6pm. Closed on Tuesday. Museum full ticket price: €10. www.palazzomadamatorino.it . Piazza Castello. T: 011 4433501. Map F3
Located a short distance from the historic centre, this hill, whose notable features include the convent and church complex of the Capuchin friars, offers a 360 degree view over the city and its surrounding mountains. After a steep climb from the Vittorio Emanuele I bridge, which can also be crossed by car, you’ll reach a panoramic square from which you can enjoy a truly stunning view over the city. An absolute must at sunset. Off Map
Musei Reali In 2014, in-depth restorations allowed all the buildings in the complex, the Royal Palace, the Armoury, the Royal Library, the Archaeological
Museo Civico d’Arte Antica
Museo della Sindone Housed in the crypt of the church of SS. Sudario, this
fascinating museum documents one of the most studied objects in human history: the Sindone, the famous ‘Holy Shroud’ a linen cloth which according to tradition Christ was wrapped in when deposed from the cross. The museum provides visitors with information about its provenance and history (from the second half of the 5th century when it became the property of the House of Savoy), as well as the various theories and mysteries surrounding it. Other highlights include the objects and paintings displayed during Public Ostensions (cyclical showings of the Shroud). Open daily 9am-Noon, 3pm-7pm. Full ticket price: €6. www.sindone.it/ museo. Chiesa del SS. Sudario, via San Domenico, 28. T: 011 4365832. Map E2
Museo Egizio Turin’s Egyptian Museum is the oldest Egyptian museum in the world and the second in terms of the value and quality of its treasures outside of Cairo. It was founded in 1824, when king Carlo Felice of Savoy purchased the collection from art expert Bernardino Drovetti. It is housed inside the historic Palazzo dell’Accademia delle Scienze, built in the 17th century by architect Guarino Guarini. In 2006, during Turin’s Winter Olympics, the museum was re-modelled by Oscar-winning set designer Dante Ferretti. The exhibition space is spread over five floors and houses more than 37,000 artifacts ranging from the Paleolithic to the Coptic era. The archaeologist and Egyptologist Jean-François Champollion once said: ‘the road to Memphis and Thebes passes through Turin’. Make sure to arm yourself with an audio guide: it’s free and enables you to tailor the itinerary of your visit according to your requirements. Open Tues-Sun 9am-6.30pm, Mon 9am-2pm. Full ticket price: €15. www.museoegizio.it. Via Accademia delle Scienze, 6. T: 011 4406903. Map F4
Museo Lavazza Lavazza is one of the most famous and oldest brands of Italian coffee. During its 120 years in the industry, it has marked the history of Italy’s coffee culture with advertisements and celebrities that have become an integral part of its public image. The museum uses a circular route to focus on its creative collaborations and famous advertising campaigns and to explore everything related to Lavazza’s history and coffee production. In order to access the museum’s numerous interactive sections, visitors are provided with a Lavazza espresso cup at the entrance. This iconic object is designed to activate the installations and unlock multimedia content across the museum. Open Wed-Sun 10am-6pm (last admission 5.30pm). Closed on 15 August. Full ticket price: 10 €. museo. lavazza.com. Via Bologna, 32A. T: 011 2179621. Map H1
Museo Nazionale del Cinema
PALAZZO CARIGNANO A stunning example of Italian Baroque architecture, it is a part of the Royal Savoy Residences and a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Palace hosts two museums, the Apartments of the Carignano Princes and the National Museum of the Risorgimento. Its elliptically-shaped hall was used to host united Italy’s first parliament. www.museorisorgimentotorino.it 42 W H E R E T U R I N I O C TO B E R 2018
The National Museum of Cinema, housed in the Mole Antonelliana, is one of the world’s most important film museums. Featuring a unique, vertical layout, this ‘temple of cinema’ spirals upwards through several exhibition levels, creating a spectacular display of its extraordinary collections through an evocative, interactive itinerary. In addition to a vast film library containing more than 7,000 titles, the museum offers collections dedicated to the archaeology of cinema, the ‘Aula del Tempio’ (Temple Room), the focal heart of the museum, with areas dedicated to the great genres of cinematic history. Don’t miss the ‘Rampa’ (the Ramp) which, like a movie, unfolds to reveal the dome, offering a breathtaking view over the museum from above, the
MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS
‘Macchina del Cinema’ (the Movie Machine), an area dedicated to the film industry and the ‘Galleria dei Manifesti’ (the Poster Gallery). Open 9am-8pm, Sat 9am-11pm. Closed on Tues www.museocinema.it. Mole Antonelliana. Via Montebello, 20. T: 011 8138560-011 8138561. Map H4
Officina della Scrittura
| SIGHTSEEING EDITOR’S TIP
Museo Nazionale del Risorgimento Italiano The museum is dedicated to the historic period of Italian unification in which Turin played a vital role. Founded in 1878, the museum has been housed in Palazzo Carignano since 1938 and is a stunning example of Italian Baroque architecture and one of Turin’s most important buildings. It was used as the House of Deputies of Piedmont’s Parliament between 1848 and 1861. The museum hosts an impressive collection of paintings, printed documents, manuscripts and sculptures. At its heart is the ornate circular chamber where Italy’s Subalpine parliament met; the only example in the world of a parliamentary room built after the revolution of 1848. Open Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. Closed on Monday. Full ticket price: €10. www.museorisorgimentotorino.it. Piazza Carlo Alberto, 8. T: 011 5621147. Map G4
Museo Nazionale dell’Automobile The Car Museum (MAUTO) was opened in 1960 and is one of the oldest car museums in the world. The semi-circular building that hosts the museum, overlooking the River Po, acts as a prelude to the three floors of the collection featuring a spectacular layout designed by François Confinio, the brilliant Swiss French architect who designed the exhibition space of the Museum of Cinema. www.museoauto.it. Corso Unità d’Italia, 40. Off Map
OGR-Officine Grandi Riparazioni From a former rail repair workshop to a new hub of contemporary culture and innovation. Opened in 2017, following a major renovation, this majestic, late 19th century industrial complex in the heart of Turin has become a meeting place for contemporary culture. The venue hosts a rich program of exhibitions, performances, concerts – both classical and electronic – as well as events dedicated to theatre, dance and the performing arts. Other initiatives include workshops, start-ups and presentations. Open Thurs-Sun 11am-7pm; Fri 11am8pm. www.ogrtorino.it. Corso Castelfidardo, 22. T: 011 4365832. Map G4
Palazzo Madama Situated in the centre of piazza Castello, this marvellous ‘palazzo’ has always been a reference point in the city. An eastern gateway for Augusta Taurinorum in Roman times, a fortified Medieval castle, and later the residence of the Acaja Princes, its name refers to ‘Madame Royale’ Christine of France who lived here in 1600, before a second ‘Madame Royale’, Marie Jeanne Baptiste of Savoy Nemours, took up residence here in 1675. In 1848, the palace became the headquarters of the first Subalpine Senate before being transformed into the cultural and artistic centre that we know today. The eminent architect Filippo Juvarra designed its magnificent white stone Baroque façade and staircase. Don’t miss the view over piazza Castello and the city from the palace’s Panoramic Tower. If you need a break, head to the cafè on the first floor offering a breathtaking view over piazza Castello. www.palazzomadamatorino.it. Piazza Castello. T: 011 5211788/4433501. Map F3/G3
Parco del Valentino
The Officina della Scrittura, located in the historic ‘pen district’, is the first museum in Europe dedicated to the art of writing. Founded in 2016 at the Aurora Factory, the oldest Italian manufacturers of fountain pens, the museum offers visitors a tour featuring a blend of tradition and technology. Interactive screens and avant-garde writing instruments are interspersed with typewriters and fountain pens that tell the story of Turin’s important role in the information revolution. Even if you’re not staying nearby, the Officina della Scrittura is located just 20 minutes by car, and one hour by bus, from the centre of town, and is well worth a visit. This is a unique experience that will appeal to both adults and children. At the end of the tour, you’ll find an Aurora sales point,
a bookshop and a restaurant-cafeteria, which is only open for lunch and offers a small selection of tantalizing dishes at affordable prices. Self-guided tours of the Officina della Scrittura take approximately one hour, while guided factory tours last for 45 minutes. Tours of the museum and factory are available in English for foreign visitors. www.officinadellascrittura.it Strada da Bertolla all’Abbadia di Stura, 200 (20 minutes from the city centre). T: 011 0343090.
Located on the banks of the River Po, this is the city’s w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 43
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largest and most popular park. Spread over a surface area of 550,000 sq.m, the park’s interior houses numerous treasures including the Castello del Valentino, a UNESCO world heritage site, now home to the Politecnico di Torino’s faculty of architecture; the Medieval Village and Castle, faithful 19th century reconstructions based on the model of Piedmont and Valdostano castles, and the Botanical Gardens, established in 1729 for educational purposes and open to the public since 1995. Tactile tours of the facility for blind or partially sighted visitors are also available. Starting from Ponte Umberto I, you can walk or cycle along the river, or stroll along the park’s paths. The park is always open, but the Castello del Valentino is not open to the public. The Botanical Gardens can be visited from mid-April to mid-October. Together with the Reggia di Venaria, Villa della Regina, Castello di Moncalieri, Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi and Castello di Rivoli, the Castello del Valentino is a part of the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont, a UNESCO world heritage site (www.residenzereali.it). The park sometimes hosts events such as ‘Terra Madre-Salone del Gusto’ (Mother Earth Tasting Festival www. salonedelgusto.com or the ‘Salone dell’Automobile’ (Turin Car Show) www.parcovalentino.com. Park: Corso Massimo D’Azeglio / Valentino Castle: Viale Mattioli, 39 / Town and Medieval Castle: Viale Virgilio, 107 / Botanical Gardens: Viale Mattioli, 25. Map G7
Piazza San Carlo Also known as ‘the drawing room’ of the city, piazza San Carlo was commissioned by Marie Christine of France in true Parisian style. It is a rectangle of perfect proportions with an equestrian statue – the so-called ‘Caval’d Brons’ - of Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy at its centre and on its southern side, facing the Porta Nuova Station, a twin pair of Baroque churches, San Carlo and Santa Christina. The former was built in 1639 based on a project by architect Amedeo di Castellamonte, while building on the latter began in 1619 (its façade was designed by Juvarra and dates back to 1715). Piazza San Carlo is flanked by seemingly endless elegant porticoes housing big-name fashion boutiques. The square is located in the middle of the partly pedestrianized arterial road of via Roma which, with its arcaded shops and cafés, connects the Station of Porta Nuova to piazza Castello. Piazza San Carlo is home to several of the city’s best-known cafés and pastry shops. Make sure to try the blends on offer at Caffè San Carlo, the pastries of Caffè Torino or the chocolates and candies of Stratta. Map F4
Piazza Vittorio Veneto Designed so that the king could access Piazza Vittorio from Piazza Castello, via Po is one of Turin’s most historic streets. After strolling under its porticoes that house numerous shops and cafés, you’ll be delighted to find yourself in Piazza Vittorio Veneto, the city’s largest square, which opens to encompass a view over the River Po. The square ends at the Vittorio Emanuele I bridge, which connects it to the square of the church of the Gran Madre di Dio, renowned for its pantheon-like shape, and the Oltrepò and Collina districts. Map H5
Pinacoteca Giovanni e Marella Agnelli Archistar Renzo Piano designed what he referred to as a ‘treasure trove’, a captivating space located on the rooftop of Turin’s Lingotto building, formerly the headquarters of the first Fiat (now FCA) automotive factory. This intimate gallery hosts a permanent exhibition showcasing the personal collection 44 W H E R E T U R I N I O C TO B E R 2018
of late Fiat head Giovanni Agnelli and his wife Marella. Here you can admire a unique collection of seven paintings by Matisse, a 1913 painting by Balla dedicated to the theme of speed, as well as masterpieces by Severini, Modigliani and Tiepolo. The collection also includes works by Canaletto, Bellotto, Picasso, Renoir, Manet and Cano. In addition to temporary exhibitions, the Pinacoteca hosts a centre for art education, a reference library, offices and a bookshop. Open Tues-Sun 10am-7pm (last entrance 6.15pm). Closed on Monday and on 24 and 25 December. Open 10am-3pm on 31 December and 3pm-7pm on 1 January. Full ticket price (Permanent Collection + Temporary Exhibition): €10. www.pinacoteca-agnelli.it. Entrance: Lingotto ‘8 Gallery’. Via Nizza, 230/103. T: 011 0062713. Off Map
Santuario della Consolata This sanctuary stands on the site of the old Church of Sant’Andrea, of which only the bell tower remains. Its hexagonal plan was introduced by Guarino Guarini between 1678 and 1704, and was based on the model of a rectangular Romanesque chapel. Other additions to the sanctuary were made by illustrious architects including Filippo Juvarra, who built the altar, and Carlo Ceppi who designed several of its chapels. Particularly noteworthy is the people’s devotion to the icon of Our Lady of Consolation: the collection of ex-votives dedicated to the Virgin is absolutely amazing. Once inside, make sure to visit the Room of St. Andrew and the Chapel of Graces. www.laconsolata.org .Piazza della Consolata. T: 011 4836111. Map E2
Teatro Regio Commissioned by Vittorio Amedeo II and designed by Filippo Juvarra, the Teatro Regio was inaugurated in 1740. Destroyed by a fire in 1936, and rebuilt in 1973 by Turinese architect Carlo Mollino, the only part of the original building that still remains is its façade, now a UNESCO world heritage site. Its unusual gated access from Piazza Castello, a ‘bronze gate’ named Odissea Musicale (Musical Odyssey) is a work by famous artist-sculptor Umberto Mastroianni. The Regio is one of the most important Italian theatres on the European scene, and offers an action-packed program of opera, ballet, symphony concerts and other cultural activities. www.teatroregio.torino.it. Piazza Castello, 215. T: 011 88151. Map F3/G3
Villa della Regina The summer country residence of the House of Savoy was built at the beginning of the 17th century as the court vineyard of Prince-Cardinal Maurizio and Princess Ludovica. It later became known as Villa della Regina (literally the Queen’s Villa) when King Vittorio Amedeo II gifted it to his future bride in 1714, and remained a royal residence until the 19th century. After lengthy restorations it was returned to its original splendour. Don’t miss a visit to this magnificent residence where, in addition to admiring the remains of its original 18th century decorations and furnishings, you can stroll through its Italianate gardens, amidst stairs, fountains, panoramic views and areas of cultivated land. The Villa can be reached by car or public transport. Together with the Reggia di Venaria, Castello del Valentino, Castello di Moncalieri, Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi and Castello di Rivoli, Villa della Regina is a part of the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont, a UNESCO world heritage site (www.residenzereali.it). Strada Comunale Santa Margherita, 79. T: 011 8194484. Off Map
Musei Reali A Savoy residence until 1865, Turin’s Royal Museums are one of the largest and most diverse museum complexes in Europe. The sheer size of the complex and collections housed therein easily rival those of other major European royal residences. A unique tour devoted to history, art and nature, comprising a 3km route of exhibition spaces and seven hectares of gardens.
ARMERIA REALE - More than 5,000 objects dating from the Prehistoric era to the 20th century, one of whose most important sections comprises an impressive collection of 16th century arms and amour. BIBLIOTECA REALE – One of the city’s most important cultural institutions, it houses over 200,000 books, antique maps, engravings and drawings, including Leonardo da Vinci’s famous ‘Self Portrait’. CAPPELLA DELLA SINDONE – Recently re-opened after a long and complex restoration, until the 1990s, the chapel, a Baroque masterpiece, housed the Sindone, now preserved in the Cathedral of Turin. GALLERIA SABAUDA - Spread over four levels of exhibition space, the gallery showcases approximately 500 masterpieces by Italian, Dutch, Flemish and European artists displayed in chronological order from the 14th to 20th centuries. GIARDINI REALI - Extending over approximately seven hectares of land, and located in the centre of the city, these beautiful gardens testify to the city’s history and former opulent splendour. Due to ongoing renovations, today only a portion of the garden are open for public viewing. MUSEO DI ANTICHITÀ - The most important archaeological finds unearthed in the city and throughout Piedmont are housed in the new underground space lying adjacent to the ruins of the Roman Theatre. PALAZZO REALE - Majestic staircases, lavishly decorated rooms, carved ceilings, stuccoes, delicately gilded furniture and frescoes. An impressive feat of significant artistic and architectural value, and the official residence of the Savoy family until 1865, the Royal Palace was expanded and changed thanks to the work of several of Turin’s most illustrious architects and artists between the 18th and 19th centuries. PALAZZO CHIABLESE - The rooms on the ground floor of Palazzo Chiablese, an 18th century building that, over the centuries, was used as a residence for members of the Savoy family, house the temporary exhibitions of the Royal Museums.
ESSENTIALS
Turin, the city of the Alps The first capital of Italy, is a ‘drawing room city’ of elegant porticoes surrounded by green hills and, further afield, by majestic mountains. This is Turin, a city renowned for its history, culture and natural beauties.
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urin was a Roman colony, the first capital of Italy and an industrial city. From its origins to the present time, Turin has had several different incarnations, each of which has left profound traces in its architecture and urban layout. Extending over a surface area of less than 150 square kilometers, crossed by the Po, the longest river in Italy, Turin is characterized by a checkerboard-like grid of streets that makes getting your bearings easy. One of the city’s most distinctive architectural features is its 18km of porticoes – mostly located in the city centre – which house shops and cafes. Its porticoes, originally designed to offer shade in the summer and shelter from the rain, snow, and sometimes the wind in winter,
and its elegant squares have given Turin the nickname of a ‘drawing room’ city. With the exception of a few streets in the centre, which are off-limits to traffic (including the Quadrilatero Romano and its shopping streets), the remainder of the city is open to traffic and most landmark attractions are easily accessible by car. However, beware of access regulation ‘ZTL Centrale’, which is active Mon-Fri, 7.30am-10.30am and prohibits the circulation of private vehicles and parking in the centre of the city. This restriction does not, however, apply to taxis or chauffer driven hired cars. As an alternative, you can use public transport to get around the city. These include buses, trams and the subway (metropolitana). The ‘metropolitana’, a fully automated subway
system, extends for 13.2km and only includes one line that connects the commune of Collegno to the Torino Porta Nuova railway station (the city’s main railway hub) and the Torino Porta Susa station, before reaching the Lingotto Fiere terminus. Turin boasts an enviable geographic position. It is surrounded by green hills that stand 715 metres above sea level, and which, in addition to their natural beauty, also offer numerous cultural and historical attractions. They can be reached in just a few minutes by public transport, the Sassi-Superga tram or car. Turin is also an ideal base to reach several of Europe’s most renowned ski resorts. It is therefore not surprising that the city is described as the ‘Capital of the Alps’. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 45
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ESSENTIALS Emergency 112 > European Emergency Number created to provide all European citizens with a single number: Ambulance, Firefighters, Police. PASSPORTS Questura Centrale di Torino, Corso
Vinzaglio, 10. T: 011 55881 www.questure. poliziadistato.it/torino
Taxi In Italy taxis cannot be flagged down as they pass you along the street; they are stationed at special taxi parking stands in most of the major squares in any city or town and at the airport and can be requested by phone. Main taxi parking Via Nizza (Porta Nuova Station), Corso Bolzano (Porta Susa Station), Piazza Castello, Piazza CLN TAXI TORINO T: 011 5737 or 5730 - www.taxitorino.it www.wetaxi.it : app available for iOS and Android, it has more than 1400 licensed taxi drivers. Taxi fares Taxi Torino doesn’t have a fixed taxi fares to the Caselle Airport; it provides a maximum fare of €34 on the Turin – Caselle Airport section starting from the city ZTL, €39 starting from Torino Lingotto (plus baggage supplements and extra fee for night or holiday travel). If the amount on the taximeter is less than €34 or €39 you’ll pay the amount of the taximeter.
Trains The most important railway station is Porta Nuova, in the central Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 58; regional, interregional, high-speed and international trains arrive at and depart from there. Turin offers fast-track access to major cities across Italy thanks to its high-speed trains: • Milan: 1 hour • Bologna: 2 hours 20 min • Florence: 2 hours 55 min • Venice: 3 hours 35 min • Rome: 4 hours 30 min • Naples: 5 hours 30 min TRENITALIA Railway Company - Info T: 892021. www. trenitalia.com. ITALO - Info T: 060708. Italo Assistance T: 892020.
www.italotreno.it.
Airports AEROPORTO INTERNAZIONALE DI TORINO CASELLE “SANDRO PERTINI” (TRN) - (16 km
from the centre of Turin). The airport, to the North of Turin, is easily reachable in 25 minutes by car thanks to the Turin-Caselle motorway junction. Information desk T: 011 5676361-2. www.aeroportoditorino.it • Connections to the airport Sadem (www.sadem.it) from Porta Nuova Station. Every 15-30 min, travel time approx. 45’. One-way ticket: €6,50 - round trip ticket: €12. . Sadem provides a shuttle service also from Turin to Milano Malpensa airport. AEROPORTO DI CUNEO LEVALDIGI (CUF) - (65
km from the centre of Turin). Information T: 0172 741500 – 558. www.aeroporto.cuneo.it • Connections to the airport from Turin Lingotto Station BMC Bus - Shuttle service available in connection with departure and arrival of flights. €8 each way, we recommend buy ticket online. www.aeroportocuneo.it 48 W H E R E T U R I N I O C TO B E R 2018
Getting around Turin
Tourist Information
GTT – Gruppo Torinese Trasporti/Local Public Transport Company - www.gtt.to.it Infoline Mon-Sat 6.30am-7.30pm. Green Line T: 800 019152; from mobile (Toll Number): T: 011 0672000.
TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE – Piazza Carlo
GTT Info Point and ticket - Railway Station Torino Porta Nuova, in front of the track 20. Mon-Fri 7.15am-7pm. Sat, Sun and holidays 9am-5pm. Lost and Found on GTT vehicles: Via Meucci 4. Mon, Wed, Thurs, 9am-12am. T: 011 4430753. Purchase your ticket before you get on the bus or the tram.Ordinary ticket (€1.70) valid for 100 minutes on buses, trams or metro. ZTL informations – Visitors traveling with their own car and staying in a hotel in the central area can enter the ZTL for the day of arrival and departure only, filling out a form at the hotel reception (ask your concierge for more information). In the same way it is possible to reach paid public parking areas within the LTZ by filling in the same parking lot with the request for transit authorization no later than 11am.
Felice, in front of Porta Nuova Station. T: 011 535181 Open daily 9am-1pm and 2pm-6pm. TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE – Piazza Castello
corner of Via Garibaldi. T: 011 535181. Open daily 9am-6pm.
Special Tours CITYSIGHTSEEING TORINO HOP ON-HOP OFF
Hallmark red double-decker bus offering 3 routes: Line A to explore the city center and the hill; Line B to get to sites as the Automobile Museum, the Lingotto, the Pinacoteca Agnelli, Eataly, the Olympic sites and the Officine Grandi Riparazioni; Line C for Allianz Stadium, Reggia di Venaria and La Mandria Castle. 8 language commentary. Ticket valid 24h (48h if you combine 3 lines). Combo tickets for top Turin attractions are also available. www.city-sightseeing.it/en/turin.
Your personal travel assistant now in the best hotels in Turin!
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