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Venice May 2017 the guide 22 SHOPPING
Michael Kors brings its inimitable style and elegance to the Lagoon
BAGARON C A M PA LT O
34 DINING
MESTRE
The Antico Martini restaurant delights the senses with authentic Venetian cuisine and a romantic atmosphere
10
56
FOCUS
44 SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS
OUT OF TOWN
The "Scuole Grandi" art treasures
Parco San Giuliano
ISOLA DI TES
52 ENTERTAINMENT
Contents
E
A
HIA
ROS
CC
GA
VE
A
E
MASEN
RT
LA
DE
CALLE
NA
ERI
i stol ti Apo San
I
DE LA PIETA’
CALLE
SPIRIT
CALLE ZUCCHERO
ETTO
E ALLO
O SANTO
FONDAME
DEI LE
LLA STE
CAL
LE CAL
ERO
STEL LA
SQU
CALL E
DE LA SACA
FO
FISOLA RI
PON
TE
ND
AM
EN
TA
SA
N
BIA
GI
O
IOL
NTI
ti
DICA
can
MEN
ENTA
Me
DEI
ndi
SO
TAR
ADI
FRU
PAR DEL
LE
FON
ANA BRESS
VENIERA
CALLE
CALLE LEONARD O
LA SACRESTIA
C. CORONA
CALLE RIMPETTO CALLE DE LE RASSE
CALLE DEL
ALBANESI
RC
R I VA
O
S. Zaccaria (
S. Marco (Vallaresso)
SALUTE
Punta della Dogana
LO SA AI RE TE ZAT
Chiesa San Giorgio M
TA EN
AM
ND
S. Giorgio
CALLE DELA CREA
Spirito Santo
NTA ZATTERE
Spirito Santo CALLE
LE
DEL TEST A
Rio
E DE
CALL
DOSE E DEL CALL
O
NAVE DE
DEL
C.
LE
CAL
SAN T’AN TON IO
CAL LE
ZULIAN
BALBI CALLE
PISCIN A SAN
MER
STAGNE RI
C. DEI
BAL OTE LE DE
CAL
A N M
FO
BRAG
TA
INCURA
BILI
FOND
AMEN
PISCINA
ZATTER
CAL
BAN DI CAL LE
SA
DEGLI
NI
Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute
CATECUMENI
I
MENTA
FORNACE
FONDA
DAM
DE L MAGAZEN
DON
CALLE
CALLE
COR
dei
C.SAN T’ANT ONIO
NO
FOR DEL LE CAL
LA
VOLT
SALIZADA
EI BAS BOM
ILE
LE
APR CER
IA
II
CAL
DEL CAL LE
LA
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ZZ
ce
PO
Dol
DO
Ca’
GA RU
Rio
LI
R
APOSTO
PISTO
SANTI
DEL ADA
RIO TERRÀ
SALIZ
EGIO
NAR
CAN
CALLE DEI FUSERI
CALLE VERRO DEL CCHIO
LLE
CALLE
CA
DI
CA
LOV O
CAL LE
VEC A
RUG
S.G. GRISOSTOMO
BO A
DEL
VAN SAN
CHI
A
CALL
E DE
GIO
LE
L’ARC
SAN
O
NI
MAT
TIA
C.
CA
DON
LLE
ZELL
DEI LLE CA
L’ANZ OLO CALL E DE
DEL SABION
RIO TERRÀ
SALON
RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO
Dei
CAT
TA
SAN
ARINI
LUN
GA
FOSC
MP
CA
de
ER
ICO
RD
IA
Can ale
. MIS
ND
FO
HET A
RAC
LA
DE
ICE
LLE
FEL
CA
SAN
NTA
ME
DA
FON
ULI PRI
LLE
FOO RN O
CA
DEL
VEL E LE
CA LLE
DE CAL LE
RO
VER LLE
CA ’ D’O
SOF IA
C.
LE
CAL
I
BO
TER
DA PONTE DOGE DEL
O
VENIER PISCINA
FOND
GNESE
ADIN
SAN TA
CAM PO
A ROS DEL LE
IEL
CAL
PAN CAM DEL
INA REG LA DE LE
CAL STU A
LA DE
FON DAM ENTA
CALLE
TTI NTOFFE SANGIA MENTA FONDA
FOS RÀ TER RIO
SANT'A
lla O DE L’A M BAZIA iser icor dia
TRE VIS AN
CA LLE
TRA GHE TO
DEL
C.
GIU STIN IAN
EUF EMI A BEA TA CAL LE
INI CAR
NANI
CAMPIELLO TRAGHETTO
ORB I DEI
CAL LE
RE DORSO SESTIE
CAL
E DEL CALL
NESI
LI
ALBA
LIPO TA CALL
DURO TA AMEN
Rio
LAR
FA
RÀ
IO MEG
E
NO A
TER
DEL CAL LE
RIO
O ROCC E SAN CALL
E DEI CALL
FOSCARI
FOND
Ca' Giustinian
FONDAMENTA
CAMPO DELLA SALUTE
TERRÀ
CORTE
HIVIO
L’ARC E DRIO CALL
STA
FOR
N SA
DEL
A
LE
AD
CAL
LIZ SA
UE GR LE
INA TI
DE
RM
TA
CA
EN
AD
AM
LIZ
ND
SA
FO
DO ON SEC
CRI STO
A’
ZO MEZ E DI CALL
RIO TERA’ OGNISANTI
Moise
E
RIVA
I
EREMIT
I MARTIR
San
RIDOTTO
ESSO
TREDIC
Rio
CALLE
MENTA
LO
VONI SCHIA
VALLAR
CALLE
FONDA
Palazzo Ducale
MO
CALLE
OTTI
O
SIONE
DEI CORTELL
RC
ASCEN
CALLE
PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI
Basilica di San Marco
MA
Museo Correr
Salute
RIO
VAPOR
LARGA
San Gregorio
FONDAMENTA
DEL
SAN
C. PIA
o
CALLE
DEL TRAGHETTO
CALLE
LE
TI,
FA R S
ET RS
RIO T ERÀ
TE
RIO
BINA
COLOM
CALLE
,
QUERIN
CALLE
GO
FONTE
RIO TERÀ CAZZA
SALITA
GA LAR CAL
NT A SA TA
LO
EN F. CONDULMER
FON. DEI TOLENTINI
IA RER CE LA DE C.
CCA E SBIA CALL I SE GU RA A RG LA
LLE CA
I
IN
ZZ
GA
MA
AI
RO
ET
DI
E
CA
Palazz
LL
CALLE
MARCO
CANONI DE LA
O
ZZA
LE CAL
CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO
San Giovanni No
DEL
CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO
SAN
FONDAMENTA DEL VIN
O
CA
CORTE NUOVA
EDIO REM LE CAL
LARGA
Rio Del
ze ra
CO
AM
De
e
al
an
C
O
TIM
RIT
MA
O
RT
PO NE ZIO RE
Palazzo Querini Stampalia
CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA
A GIUFF
DI
Santa Maria Formosa Pala Grim
BANDE
CORTE
RUGA
en
DE LE
FRUTARIOLI
CALLE DEL FIGHER
CALLE
I BALON
O PELL CAP
ETT
Sc
FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI
CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO
CALLE
ORBI
CA TAS
E DEI
GIO ROLO DELL’O
EOL
CALLE
Palazzo Genovese
CALLE DEL BASTION
A
CALLE DEL NAVARO
C
CORTE TREVISAN
CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA
Palazzo Pisani Gritti
Santa Maria del Giglio
DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO
CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE
Osped
CALL
O
I HIER SPEC
IA DAR SPA
C.DEI
CA E BIAN CALL
ALL CAV
ORS
SARTOR
CALLE DEL PESTRIN CAMPIELLO CONTARINI
O SAT MUS
CORTE
ARIA MARZ
DEL
A ENT
C.
DAM
San Moisè
CORTE BAROZZI
VE
IS
Basili Santi Giova
CORTE DEL PRESTRIN
DEL FORNO
CORTE TORRETTA
CORTE DELLE ANCORE
PIA
CAMPO SAN MOISE’
NO
FORNO
DE LE ERBE
San Giuliano
Bacino Orseolo
PRIMO INA RAMOCONTAR CORTE
E’
LE CAL
LUCATE LLO MAR ZAR IA DEI SAN PIGN ZUL OLI IAN
BRI FAB
MOIS
SA
LICINI
MEZ O
C.
RIO LO GAL SAN E CALL CAMPO SAN GALLO
FON
C. DEL
NA
CORTE
RUBBI
DE
DEI
NA
PISCI
LIO
C. LARGA
CARRO
XXII MARZO
SAN
Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione
DE LA FAVA
CORTE
CAL LE
CAP
LE CAL
C. DE LE COLONNE
IOL
CALLE
CAMPO DEL VOLTO
CAMPO CALICE
OLINA GRAG LE COLONNE DE
CALLE
TE
RLE
CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO
DEL
LI
E DEI CALL
IVO RED
CALLE GOLDONI
À
CASTEL
CALLE DEL C.MAR PIOMB TINEN O GO D. PALLE
GIAZZO
DA
GALIAZ ZO
C. DEL
IAPIE RA BALO TE
LE CAL
I
LARGA
CALLE
REMER
BRI FAB
om
PIC
ND
ON
FO
SIM
SAN
ENT A
DAM
FON
ra
ze
en
m
Sco
O
TIM
RIT
MA
O
RT
PO
CORTE NOVA
CALLE GABRI ELI
A
ERIA SEL CAS
DEI
LE
E C.
TER
EN
ND
G. GALLIN
LIO
r
LE CAL
do DEL
AZZ
AM
LLE BE
CORTE CORTESE
LARGA
CALLE
I
SAN
lva
VERO
CALLE
OL
CORTE GRAGOLINA
STR
ERIA
DEL
AC
ND
ERI
E
CALLE
DA
Sa
LA
MICHIEL
CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO
FREZZ
CALLE
ITELL O CORTE C.DE TRAMONTIN L TAG
C.DE
BOT
CA
DRIO CALLE LE SCUOL
MAN
Santa Maria dei Miracoli
I MIR
Teatro Malibran
SALVAD OR
MAR ZARI A DEL
C.
FRUTAR
DEL
MINELL
CORTE
Santa Maria del Giglio
SAN
n
DE
A DE PISCIN
LA CHIESA
Teatro la Fenice
CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI
FOND. VENIER DAI LEON
C. DEL
SABION
DEI
Casa di Marco Polo
CORTE DEL
MARZA RIA
Sa
C.
CALLE
DRIO
DE
CAMPO SAN LIO
LE
ONA
CALLE
CALLE
RIO
SALIZA
MAZ ZINI
FO GA
CAMPIELLO STELLA
N
WID
LE
CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO
Rio
I
ASSA TERÀ
RTA
Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda
LAR
CAMPIELLO WIDMANN
S.Canciano
CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO
CANZIAN A SAN
X
ZEN MAGA
DEL
CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO
CALLE
SSIN
SAN
CALLE
NDE LOCA
San Fantin
R
LE
O
CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO
VAR ISCO
IZA
BO BEM
OPIA PISC
BON CAR
A LUC LE CAL
MARCO
ETIE
V O LT
CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN
CAL LE
C O RT E B ATA G I A
FONTEG
PIO
San Salvador
DEL
VER
le
CAMPIELLO VALMARANA
SAL
LE CAL
DEL
RO TEAT LE CAL
Palazzo Nervi Scattolin
OLA MAND
LARG A
CORTE
TEATRO
LA
CAF
CAL
CAMPO DE LA CARITA’
LE D EL
DEL M ORA
CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA
O
SAN SALVADOR
CORTE DEL
CAMPO MANIN
RNIN PATE
C. DEL
SALI ZZA DA
Rialto
E CALL
A
DE
na
RAMO
RIOL
O DEL
QUE
C.
DOL
Ca
FRUTA
COCCO
CIN
LLI CAVA
E
RIO
SAN
I
R
CAL
BARBA
CALLE
DEI
A
LE
CAN
NE
Chiesa dei Gesuiti
E VOLT
E VENIE
CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION
Fontego dei Tedeschi
TOS
ZIO
SI
DE
RE
TERÀ
CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON
ORE
LE
DI
HE BRIC FAB
CAL
a
LE
ON
E CALL
NER COR
im
DE
ANG
E CALL
DEL
CHIES
DEL FORNO
CALL
CORTE DEL REMER
RIO
CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO
Ponte di Rialto
N
TI OCA
MAN
CALL
LE
Collezione Peggy Guggenheim
SALIZADA
ULI
San Giacomo di Rialto
CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO
RIO
E CALL
À
AVV
CAL
DELLA
UZZI
E
ZEN
SARTORI
San Giovanni Grisostomo
Teatro Carlo Goldoni
CAOTO
CALLE
CAPP
CATEN
CAMPO DEI GESUITI
ENTA
CALL
SALIZAD
CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA
STU
TEA TR O
CALLE
Canal Grande
CALLE
DAM
CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA
Rialto (Palazzo Cavalli)
San Maurizio
CAMPO DI SAN VIO
E
NANI
VA
CAL LE
TER
LE
CALLE
PRI
Fontego Palazzo Rava Dolfin Manin
RIO
CAL
SI
CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL
GO
RAVA
San Beneto San Luca
CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO
GNES
VE
REA
DEI
NO
DEL
Palazzo Grimani
CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ
NT'A
ENT A
CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO
CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO
Accademia
. S.AND
DAM
San Silvestro
nde
CAMPO SANTO STEFANO
C.SA
NO
DEL
ETA
RUGH
SAN
Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia
NO
RINA
FOND.
Santa Sofia
DA
LE
ritt
TE
CAL
CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA
Gra
BOT EGH E
CAMPO PISANI
CATE
FON
FOND
FON
PAR
CAMPIELLO DEL SOL
Sant’Aponal DEL
C.
. NARI
TA
A
CAM DEL PIEL SAN LO SON I
AMP ANE
Santo Stefano
San Vidal
RA
CAL
Ma
EN
CALLE
SAN
CAL
ne
AM
ENTA
CAMPO DELLA PESCARIA
ANI GRIM
taz io
ND
Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana
E CALL
LE
ST
ZI
DE
IER
DEL PISTOR
STU A
GALIZ
oS
LA
DEI
cin
DEL
C.
FOND
CRO SER A
DAM
RUG
CAR
CORTE DELL’ALBERO
E UEL SAM
FON
CAMPO DE LE ERBE
A
S.
FAL
Zattere
Giudecca Hilton
DEI LAVRANE
FO
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Giudecca Hilton
LARGA
N
CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA
LE
E AI GESUA TI
FONDAMENT O BEATE GIULIANA CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO
CALLE
LE
DE L
Palazzo Loredan
ZATTER
CHIESA
MI
MUT I
Palazzo Fortuny
CAL
CALLE
IN
S.Silvestro
DI SAN MARCO
S. Samuele
MENTA
DELLA
RA
OL
ZEL
DA IZA SAL
Ca' Rezzonico
FONDA
CALLE
ND
AP
CAMPO SAN BENETO CA LLE
CAL LE CA’ VEC CHI CORT A E LEZZE
OZZE CARR
TR
DON
CAMPO SAN TROVASO
DE
LE CAL
SESTIERE
Palazzo Grassi San Samuele LE
IA
LA
LINI
CA’
CARAMPANE À
Sant'Angelo
Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo RAMO
Abazia della Misericordia D
R
DE
Palazzo Giustinian Persico
S. Toma' SX
ENTA
TER
DE
BOT A
FORNO
DAM
RIO
al Can
E DE CALL
O
TA
CAMPO DE LA BECARIE
DEL
LON
' VE
ERA
TE
LA
CALLE
PON
CAL LE DE
E DOL
E AL
CAL LE
CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI
Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo
Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione
SACCA
CORTE DEL TEATRO
San Tomà
A
San Trovaso
L’AG NEL LA
Palazzo Querini-Dubois
Ca' Rezzonico
I
IC
EN
CAMPO APONAL
CAMPO DEI FRARI
CAMPO DEI SQUELINI
BON
TER
INI
GO RTE OPO SOT
LET
CHI TODES
SANT
ER
AM
DON SAN PER
CALLE BERNARDO
FON
ZAT
SCA
C. DEI
OGNI
DE
LE SAMUE
. DE
NTA
NT AR
San Cassiano CAMPO SAN CASSAN
RIN PEST
AME
DEL
SERA
FOD
FOND
C.
A S. PISCIN
DE OGNISAN
TI
S. Basilio
100 m
DE INC INI
E CRO
ENTA
C.
IS
ND
DE
E DEL CALL
FONDAM
ZI
O
Chiesa di Ognissanti
CALLE DE LA CHIESA
CAMPO SAN BESAGIO
TIOZ
CA’BCAL ONVLE
CALL
IO
DEI
CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI
DEI PUTI
BESAG
TA
Santa Fosca
SAN POLO
CALLE
DA SAN
FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN
DORSODURO
LE
CAMPO SAN TOMÀ
San Barnaba
EN
M
FO
CAL
HETT
O
AM
CA
CORTE DEL TIOZZI
TRAG
SPORCAE CALLE PAZIENZ DE LE
CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN
SALIZA
CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI
OR
E ZANE
nde Canal Gra
SCOAZZERA DE LA E
LE PAZIENZ
CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL
CALLE SAN BASILIO
NT
E DEL
L’ASE
CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA
ND
NA
SAN
A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA
IAN
I
San Sebastiano
AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO
TE
CALL
E DE
INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON
AST
DON
CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO
SEB
LAR
SAN
Istituto Universitario Di Architettura
A ENT
LE
DAM
Angelo Raffaele
O
CAL
L
DO
TTO
Santa Maria dei Carmini
FON
RIELO
LE
DE
BOL
GHE
NI
LORENZ
CALLE CASE NUOVE
SAN
San Nicolò dei Mendicoli
CAL
C.
TRA
CALL
TA
CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE
L
CALL
SER
R
FOMO
CAMPO DEI CARMINI C. DE
DIA
C. SAN
MATTA DI CA’
CO
C.
CRO
NA
MADONA
LE
E RENIE
DEL
TA
a de
rto
EN
d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro
CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI
CAL
DEL
CALL
EN
nn
ll'O
AM
CAL LE
DE LA
CAL
D
San Felice
CAMPO SAN POLO
TTO
I
ALE
Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni
O
ER
ORE
PRET
E C A
FO
DD
CAMPO SAN STIN
Basilica dei Frari
TINT
E DEI
MA
RAMO
LE
N
N
E TRON
TOMÀ
A mixture of history and legend, D O R S O D U R O all the secrets of Venetian cuisine. NIC
CALLE
OCHE
LE
Car
TERÀ
SAN
CAL
TALO
RIO TERA’
AR
del
AM
do
S.Stae
CAL
GU
EN
min
I
Rio
C.
MEZ
CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO
CALL
CALLE DEL MAGAZEN
LLE
AM
RIO
CANAL RIO TERA’
CA
ND
IAT
E
DE
E
A
San Rocco
Mu
SSA
FO
BR
E LE
CALL
CALLE DELL'OLIO
N
le
PAN
CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA
RO
RE
’
LA TT
CAMPO SAN PANTALON
I
NTA
L' ARZE
OLO
LAC
San Pantalon
O
CALLE
i
TA
LE
TOR
de
A SAN
NUOVO
USE
TA DE
AMEN
LA
N
tini
RIO
ND
Ma
San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale
CALL
CAMPO SAN BOLDO
OCH
C.VE
LA
LA
SA
CAMPO SAN ROCCO IZAD
Rio dei Tolen MENTA
CALLE ORSETTI
NZAT
DE
FON IA
ESI
ete
SAL
CALLE CONTARINA
ME
AMEN
FOND
CAMPIELLO LONGHI
DE
LA
CIM
CALL
FONDA
DE LA VIDA
TIN
I
DA
AUTHENTIC FLAVOURS
TA
O
BASEG
RAMO
CAL
O
À D E
Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale
San Giacomo dall'Orio CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO
DEL
I
CERER
DE L’OGIO
EN
TI
TER
La Maddalena
L’ISOLA
LE
CH
DEI
DEI FONTEGH
CALLE
LE
DE
DAR O
gh
OTT
en
CALLE
DE
CAL
AS
Ma
RAG
FOND
Ba
NE
MENTA
FON
FONDA
ERI
CALLE
OT
CALLE DE LA LACA
C.
RAM
CIM
ne
ENT A MIN
TERA’
CALLE CAZZA
RUGA BELA
I
EO
MADON
LA
L
RZ
AM
ZO
CAM
LE CAL
ESI
Del
FO
lla
ETTI MOR
SIM
CAL
PAZ
Rio
DAM
CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’
A
LE
DE
A A MART SANT
NA
Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola
CALLE SAVIO
CAMPO NAZARIO SAURO
BAR
N LUN
o de
LE CAL
SA LA
CAL
A CALLE
TA
CA
E
ND
DEI
A OV
E
LA
TA PROC
URATI
RT
IO
FO de Serv N.D AN i IEL
R
CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA
RUGA VECCHIA
GA
NU AM
DE
O
Rio
DIETRRIO TERÀ O LA CHIE
San Marcuola
I
LAR
LLE
A
RG
PO
BAR
TA
LIS
FO
E DEL PISTO
RIO
DEL REMER
BIAS
DI
FO
Rio
CALL
CAMPIELLO
C.
NG
BE
TA RIZZI
CAZZIO
AMEN
A RIVA
VE
DEI AMAI
gaz
MENTA
AMEN
CO
RAM
FONDA
FOND
E NUO
CAM
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Our pick of the best S Acity N T A dining CROCE at several top hotels in Venice.
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36 “FIVE STAR” RESTAURANTS
Take advantage of your stay in Venice to enjoy this season’s latest offerings.
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“Human beings”, their creative ability and their need for interaction take center stage at the 57th Art Biennale: 120 artists from all over the world and a rich events program.
Information and tips to experience the best that Venice has to offer
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STAY IN TOUCH
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58 ESSENTIALS
Large and small workshops in Venice, renowned for their quality and tradition.
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Tobia Ravà, "Ponte di pace" (2016). Courtesy Galleria d'Arte l'Occhio-Venezia
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This month's round-up of shows, art exhibitions, and concerts.
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SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | ENTERTAINMENT | SHOPPING | DINING | MAPS
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TOBIA RAVÀ, "PONTE DI PACE" (2016). COURTESY GALLERIA D'ARTE L'OCCHIO-VENEZIA
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OUT OF TOWN NATURE, HISTORY AND SPAS
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THE BEST OF SEASONAL TRENDS
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Discover artisanal ‘botteghe’, tiny jewel-like boutiques and vintage shops.
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Enjoy the city, starting from PORTO MARGHERA its main landmark attractions. VIVA ARTE VIVA
Immerse yourself in a world of nature, art and wellness at several of the Veneto region’s most alluring destinations
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CH
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MAY 2017 THE MONTHLY GUIDE TO
ALL YOU CAN DO IN THE CITY
Head to La Fenice opera house this month to see "The Sleeping Beauty", one of the world's grandest spectacles of dance
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According to an age-old tradition, which today is much less widely respected, wedding season in Italy is May. In fact, until recently, the majority of weddings were celebrated during this month. However, in Venice, each year, and for the past thousand years, the most evocative, poetic and craziest wedding of all has been celebrated in May. Believe it or not, in May, Venice marries the sea. This time-honoured tradition stems from the pagan rituals where Venetians exorcised their fear of the elements. Shortly after the year 1000, this ritual took on a religious meaning. In 1179AD, as a token of his gratitude to the Venetian Doge for his help against Germanic Emperor Frederick Barbarossa, Pope Alexander III blessed the Lagoon, the Venetian fleet and Venice as a maritime power. Since the date chosen coincided with the Catholic holiday of the Ascension (which falls forty days after Easter and marks the ascension of Christ into heaven), it became customary, from that time onwards, to celebrate ‘the wedding of the sea’ forty days after Easter during the feast known by the Venetians as ‘della Sensa’ (which, this year, falls on the weekend of 27 and 28 May). Since 1965, to mark the occasion, the City of Venice has organized a historic reenactment, which has become a much-loved tourist attraction. A procession of rowing boats reaches the mouth of the harbour near the church of San Nicolò del Lido, and a ring is then thrown into the water. The event ends with a historic regatta and costumed parades. If you’re in search of something a little more authentic, head to the treasury of the Basilica of San Marco where a centuries-old ring, which was recently recovered from the depths of the sea, serves as proof of this ancient ritual. Whatever option you choose, remember that you are always invited to join in the fun. The concept that this city still celebrates its love affair with the sea is truly a beautiful one. On the subject of beauty, remember that the Venice Art Biennale kicks off in May (for more information turn to page 10 and following). This summer, Venice is set to enthrall you with its wonders! Elena Binda, Editor
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To mark the so-called ‘Festa della Sensa’, a procession of traditional rowing boats leaves from St. Mark’s Square and sails to the Lido. Each year, this historic reenactment, celebrating the age-old history of the Serenissima, attracts thousands of Venetians and tourists during the Feast of the Ascension (27-28 May). Photo: www.veneziaunica.it
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[ SIGHTSEEING]
Top in town
Palazzo Ducale
BASILICA DI SAN MARCO This is the most important Catholic church in the city, and one of the most important monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1000; inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. Map F4
CANAL GRANDE Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the main waterway of Venice. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima.
PONTE DEI SOSPIRI A Baroque bridge that once connected Palazzo Ducale to the prisons. The Bridge of Sighs is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. It can be accessed when visiting Palazzo Ducale. Map F4
SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO The external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell of Palazzo Contarini - an exquisite, late Gothic building - is enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can
4 W H E R E V E N I C E I M AY 2017
be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. Map E4 TEATRO LA FENICE Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries La Fenice theatre has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. Map E5 CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE DI SAN ROCCO A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built
MORE AT PAGE 45 MAP PAGES 62-63
as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plaguestricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures. Map D4
PHOTO © DANIMISRA
PALAZZO DUCALE A masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, it features a number of different and intricate architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it is superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. Map F4
Canal Grande
Piazza San Marco with the Basilica and the Tower
Ponte dei Sospiri
EDITOR'S TIPS
THE GHETTO The Jewish ghetto of Venice, the first ever, was established in 1516. It is located in a secluded sestiere of Cannaregio and is celebrating its 500th anniversary. A walk through ‘calli’, ‘campi’ and ‘campielli’’ allows visitors to soak up a magical, cocoon-like atmosphere that brings to mind Shakespeare’s play the ‘Merchant of Venice’. Map D2
PONTE DI RIALTO This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Originally built during medieval times as a pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. It includes as many as 120 steps. Map E4
THE ISLANDS Although the whole of Venice lies on an archipelago, an ‘excursion to the islands’ generally means a half-day cruise on a boat to visit the islands of Murano, Torcello and Burano, three charming, small islands, rich in history and tradition. Visitors love these islands, and there may be a risk of not finding a seat on the boat.
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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES INSTALLATION
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A MARRIAGE OF SCIENCE AND BEAUTY
Head to T Fondaco dei Tedeschi, the new luxury department store and cultural APRIL NOVEMBER hub overlooking the Grand Canal to see ‘Waterbones’, the site-specific installation by Italian artist Loris Cecchini. Comprising thousands of thin welded interconnecting steel modules, in an apparent state of construction and deconstruction, this installation is part of the artist’s series of delicate and natural works. Whether leaning against a wall or hanging from the glass ceiling, the organic structure designed by Cecchini plays with gravity, creating a three-dimensional effect which is both natural and artificial, static and dynamic. Open every day to the public freely. Waterbones T Fondaco dei Tedeschi, Events Pavilion (top floor) Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi, Ponte di Rialto tfondaco.com
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MAY
MAY
HOT DATES Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating Italian traditions, art and music or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates.
© Photo: Cecchini. Credit: Loris Cecchini, Waterbones. Courtesy of the artist and the Galleria Continua San Gimignano/Beijing/ Les Moulins/Habana.
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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES ART
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▼ The Galleria d’Arte l’Occhio pays tribute to Venice’s 57th International Art Biennale with a monographic exhibition by Venetian artist Tobia Ravà, whose work is included in many important public and private collections worldwide. After experimenting with different creative paths referencing the relationship between art and science, for years the artist has researched topics related to Jewish mysticism including Kabbalah and Chassidism, offering a new symbolic approach through the infinite combinatorial possibilities of letters and numbers. The result of this research is expressed in a type of pictorial ‘magma’ consisting of numbers (each one corresponding to a letter) crystallized on the surfaces of views of canals and woods. A sort of symbolic puzzle, based on different levels of interpretation.
MAY
Tobia Ravà, "Diagonale alchemica" (2016). Courtesy Galleria d'arte l'Occhio-Venezia
THE SYMBOLISM OF TOBIA RAVÀ
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MUSIC
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Infiniti interiori c/o Galleria d’Arte L’Occhio Dorsoduro 181-185. www.gallerialocchio.net
YOUNG CLASSICAL MUSICIANS
▲ Promoted by the Società Veneziana di Concerti, this May’s program features two internationally acclaimed ensembles, considered among the world’s most exciting young string quartets. The Kelemen Quartet (3 May, see photo) will perform pieces by Haydn, Schubert and Bartók, while the Arcadia Quartet – appearing for the first time in Venice – will interpret Mozart, Haydn and Bartók (9 May). The performances will be hosted against the spectacular backdrop of the Scuola Grande di San Giovanni Evangelista, where visitors can admire the lavishly decorated walls and ceilings of the 18th-century ‘salone’.
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Società Veneziana di Concerti Scuola Grande di San Giovanni Evangelista Dorsoduro 2693/B (Calle Nicolosi) venicechambermusic.org
TASTE
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FASCINATING FLAVOURS ◄ ‘Vino in Villa’ is the most important annual event devoted to the wine of Conegliano Valdobbiadene (Treviso, 1 hour from Venice). Held during the third week in May in the heart of the production area, it is set against the magnificent backdrop of the San Salvatore Castle in Susegana. This festival offers visitors a unique opportunity to sample different varieties of Prosecco and explore the enchanting, hilly areas of Valdobbiadene and Prosecco, currently under evaluation for UNESCO World Heritage status. Highlights include tastings, special menus dedicated to the event, guided tours of the area including visits to ancient parish churches and historical Renaissance centres, as well as a chance to visit the ‘Bellini e i Belliniani’ exhibition at Palazzo Sarcinelli in Conegliano. The event will culminate with an unmissable event dedicated to the presentation of the latest Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG vintage.
Vino in Villa San Salvatore Castle in Susegana, Conegliano (Treviso). www.prosecco.it 8 W H E R E V E N I C E I M AY 2017
MAY ANNUAL EVENTS IN VENICE
ART
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PEGGY GUGGENHEIM CELEBRATES SURREALIST ART
The Peggy Guggenheim Collection hosts an exhibition dedicated to the work of Rita Kernn-Larsen, a prominent Danish surrealist artist, whom Peggy Guggenheim met in Paris in 1937. The following year, she was invited by Peggy to exhibit her paintings at a one-woman exhibition at the London-based ‘Guggenheim Jeune’ gallery; a show that launched Peggy’s career as a patron of Surrealist art. This intimate exhibition inaugurates the two new ‘Project Rooms’, spaces designed to host special projects with the aim of exploring the work of 20th century artists, or specific themes connected to the Peggy Guggenheim collection. Free guided tours of the exhibition daily (3pm).
FEBRUARY
JUNE
Rita Kernn-Larsen. Surrealist Paintings Peggy Guggenheim Collection, Project Rooms. Dorsoduro, 701 (Palazzo Venier dei Leoni). www.guggenheim-venice.it
PHOTOGRAPHY
JANUARY New Year’s Eve Concert > Arias and operatic selections at La Fenice Opera House. FEBRUARY Carnival of Venice > Shows, masked parades and music in ‘calli’, squares and palaces. APRIL Festa di San Marco/Feast of St. Mark > (25 April) In addition to being a national holiday, on 25 April Venetians also celebrate Saint Mark’s day. Venice Night Trial > (29 April) Urban trail run 16 km through the historical centre of Venice. MAY Biennale of Art “VIVA ARTE VIVA” (13 May-26 November, Arsenale and Giardini) > 57th international exhibition of Contemporary Art Festa della Sensa (or Ascension festivity 27-28 May) > A masked parade in St. Mark’s Square to celebrate the Serenissima and the ‘Sposalizio del Mare’ (Marriage of the Sea) ceremony JUNE/JULY Vogalonga (4 June) > 43rd edition of the 30 km rowing marathon through S. Erasmo, S. Francesco del deserto, Burano, Mazzorbo, Murano and the Grand Canal. The competition is open to the public. Biennale of Dance > (23 June-1 July) Feast of San Piero de Casteo > An end-of-June festivity to celebrate the arrival of summer: the focal point of the event is the Island of San Pietro di Castello. JULY/AUGUST Festa del Redentore / Feast of the Redeemer > (16 July) One of Venice’s best loved festivals, the event features a parade of boats in the Giudecca and fireworks. Biennale of Theatre (25 July-12 August)
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AUGUST/SEPTEMBER International Exhibition of Cinematographic Art > (30 August-9 September) Now in its 74th consecutive year, the exhibition is organized by the Biennale of Venice.
THE POP AND BAROQUE UNIVERSE OF DAVID LACHAPELLE
A major monographic exhibition featuring SEPTEMBER ▲
more than 100 images from the 90s to the present day. This exhibition explores the career of David LaChapelle, one of the world’s most important and irreverent contemporary photographers. For the first time ever, the public will have a chance to admire his ‘New World’ series. This series, created over the past four years, features 18 works that mark a return to the human figure and revolve around themes like heaven, and representations of joy, nature and the soul. David LaChapelle. Lost & Found Casa dei Tre Oci. Fondamenta delle Zitelle, 43 (Giudecca area). www.treoci.org
SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER Regata Storica / Historic Regatta (3 September) > One of Venice’s foremost rowing competitions, it is preceded by a spectacular parade of historic 16th century craft. Biennale of Music (29 September-8 October) Venice Marathon (22 October) NOVEMBER Festa della Salute > 21 November A popular religious feast day. DECEMBER Christmas Concert at St. Mark’s basilica
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ROBERTO CUOGHI, (S(IZ+SN)MM), 2014. 60 X 60 CM. PHOTO ALESSANDRA SOFIA
WHERE NOW | FOCUS
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Viva Arte Viva Lunching with artists, seeing them at work and becoming a part of the performance: Human beings, their creative ability and their need for interaction take centre stage at the 57th Art Biennale with 120 artists from all over the world and a rich events program. BY ELENA BINDA
D
o you need any another reason to visit Venice? Of course you don’t. Millions of people, from all over the world throng here daily to experience its artistic wonders. And yet, if this city were any less incredible, or if you’d prefer to visit other parts of the world because you already know it so well, we can offer you another compelling reason to return again. But rest assured, no matter how many times you’ve visited Venice, you’ll always find new attractions in this vibrant and culturally stimulating city.
“the Biennale must present itself as a place whose method and raison d’être, is dedicated to an open dialogue between both artists, and also between artists and the public.” Out of the 120 artists who have been invited to the exhibition, 103 are participating for the first time. Some are ‘discoveries’; many others, at least for this year’s edition, are ‘rediscoveries’. “These courageous choices,” explains Macel, “are also a concrete expression of our confidence in the world of art.”
OVERVIEW
From 13 May to 26 November, Venice will host the 57th Art Biennale, an event that attracts the world’s best contemporary artists and offers visitors an amazing selection of works, installations, live performances, and multiple opportunities to reflect on the present. WHAT IS THE BIENNALE The Biennale was established in 1895 and is universally considered one of the most prestigious cultural events in the world. At the forefront of research, and renowned for promoting new contemporary artistic trends, the Biennale organizes exhibitions and events in all cultural sectors. It comprises not only art per se, but also architecture, dance, music, theatre and cinema, with the famous September film festival, which sees A-listers and movie moguls gathering in the Lagoon. Chaired by Paolo Baratta, a manager, economist and former Italian minister, each edition of the Biennale is curated by a different person. Parisian-born Christine Macel, Chief Curator at the Musée d’Art Moderne at the Pompidou Centre, curates the 2017 Biennale. The exhibition is hosted at two venues (the Arsenale and the Giardini) and features 87 national pavilions, each with its own curator and project, as well an international exhibition organized by the Biennale di Venezia, which appoints a curator for this specific task, and who also coordinates the fringe events. The theme of this edition is ‘Viva Arte Viva’, an exclamation, a passionate appeal for art and the state of the artist which, according to Christine Macel, “celebrates mankind’s ability, through art, to avoid being dominated by world affairs. The artistic act is simultaneously an act of resistance, liberation and generosity.” This is where art is ‘alive’ because, as Paolo Baratta remarks,
The 57th International Art Exhibition will be open to the public from Saturday 13 May to Sunday 26 November 2017 at the Giardini and Arsenale venues. Preview: 10, 11, and 12 May. Official Opening and Awards Ceremony: Saturday 13 May 2017 Opening times: 10am-6pm; 10am-8pm at the Arsenale venue only on Fridays and Saturdays. Closed on Mondays (except on May 15). The 57th International Art Exhibition will also include 87 National Participations in the historic pavilions at the Giardini, the Arsenale, and in the city of Venice. Selected fringe events will be presented by international organizations. www.labiennale.org. FOR UPDATES VISIT www.where-venice.com www.labiennale.org Official hashtag: #BiennaleArte2017
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WHERE NOW | FOCUS Chiesa di San Michele in Isola
MEETING THE ARTISTS As everyone knows, the Biennale is a place where visitors can ‘nourish themselves on art’. This time, however, that expression assumes a surprisingly concrete meaning. Thanks to the Tavola Aperta (Open Table) initiative, every Friday and Saturday throughout the Biennale, artists will invite viewers to an “Open Table” for lunchtime conversations (art, life, the universe…). These bi-weekly events will be organized (for a fee) in front of the Central Pavilion of the Giardini and in the new Sala d’Armi in the Arsenale in two dedicated spaces specifically refurbished for this purpose. Chiesa Live dei Gesuiti streaming on the Biennale website will transform this lunchtime ritual into a live performance in its own right. A permanent space will also be created in both exhibition venues for the Pratiche d'Artista (Artists Practices) project, a series of short videos made by the artists to enlighten viewers about their worlds and work methods. These clips, San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti posted on the Biennale’s website in the weeks leading up to the inauguration, will increase the S.Canciano Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo excitement. Top: the Giardini location, one of the two venues hosting Venice’s Art Biennale. del Pianto However, the chance to investigateSanta theMaria genesis Santa Maria Right page: over 120 artists will participate with their artworks, installations and Basilica dei dei Miracoli of the artistic act doesn’t end here. To highlight Santi Giovanni e Paolo performances. Clockwise, from top left: masterpieces by Edith Dekyndt, Olafur Eliasson, atro Malibran the theme of this 57th edition, a cornucopia Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto Giorgio Griffa, Giorgio Andreotta Calò (‘Untitled’/Laguna Sud) and Ernesto Neto. di Marco Polo of live performances will be staged during San Francesco the six months of the exhibition. The majority della Vigna of these performances will be held at Central Pavilion, designed as a trans-national pavilion.
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Grimani HOW TO GET THERE Palazzo San Giovanni To reach the Arsenale: ACTV lines 1 and Querini di 4.1 Malta Stampalia La Biennale di Venezia To reach the Giardini: ACTV lines 1, 2, 4.1 Educational Arsenale Arsenale di Venezia San Giuliano and 5.1, (line 6 only from Piazzale Roma). San Giovanni Novo La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese Distance between the two venues: Giardino delle Vergini San Giorgio dei Greci 15 minutes on foot. Arsenale di Venezia Basilica di San Pietro Services: Infopoint, free cloakroom di Castello San Zaccaria San Martino Basilica service, bar, restaurant and bookshop. di San Marco Santa Maria San Giovanni Battista della Pietà O SAN PIETRO La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale RC Accessibility: the route between the two in Bragora MA SAN DI CASTELLO ZA Palazzo Ducale ONI C H I AV S R I I V L A DEGLI DEG venues is wheelchair accessible. S C H I AV R I VA ONI CO Facilities for families: at the Arsenale, AR 1 ARSENALE N M SA LO MO free stroller hire, baby changing space, Vaporetto Stop Museo Storico San Francesco nursing and feeding space for infants Arsenale Navale di Venezia di Paola and a family-friendly area. At the Giardini; baby changing space and a nursing and feeding space. RI VA Pets: small pets are allowed on a leash in DE I S ET TE the green spaces at the Giardini. No pets M AR ogana TI RI San Giuseppe are allowed at the Arsenale venue. di Castello CAMPO Payment methods accepted: cash, debit SAN ISEPO and credit cards. Vaporetto Stop
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WHERE NOW | FOCUS
FRINGE PROJECTS The key feature of the Biennale is the merging of different disciplines. In addition to the 20 performances scheduled to be held during the inaugural days, the remainder of the event will feature an action-packed calendar. For more information visit the website www.labiennale.org. For the first time, the Biennale will also offer visitors a library. This library, hosted at the Stirling Pavilion, will feature of a selection of books, which the artists (and the curator) highlight as having played a pivotal role in the formation of their careers.
For the second consecutive year, the Biennale has confirmed its collaboration with the Victoria and Albert Museum in London for the Applied Arts Pavilion located in the Sale d’Armi of the Arsenale. Cuban artist and sculptor Jorge Pardo, whose work is characterized by a blend of art and design, will curate this project. The Biennale has also renewed its contract with the Teatro La Fenice for this year’s special project dedicated to the opera ‘Cephalus and Procris’. Based on a libretto by Rinaldo Küfferle, with music by Ernst Krenek, the artistic direction of the project has been entrusted to French multimedia artist Philippe Parreno. The opera will be staged at Venice’s Teatro Malibran from 29 September to 7 October 2017.
PHOTO © SVIDA_WHEREITALIA
For example, for the duration of the exhibition, American artist Dawn Kasper will move her studio to the Biennale, Danish artist Olafur Eliasson will invite students and migrants to make lamps, and Belgium artist Edith Dekyndt will continue to fill an illuminated rectangle with powder. Other highlights will include the floating house created by Japanese group The Play, the animal cemetery by Brazilian artist Erika Verzutti, shamans and rituals of the Amazon by Ernesto Neto, and the metaphysical water colours of Giorgio Griffa, whose performances will relieve the tedium of those standing in lengthy queues while waiting to get into the Arsenale.
A series of events correlated to other sectors of the Biennale will also be held during the six months of the International Art Biennale. These include the 11th International Festival of Contemporary Dance in June, the 45th International Theatre Festival in July and August, the 74th Film Festival at the Lido at the end of August/beginning of September, and the 61st International Festival of Contemporary Music in October.
The main entrance to Venice’s Arsenale, one of the two official sites hosting the artistic and architectural exhibits on display at the Art Biennale.
restaurant in Venice inspired by the principles of organic cuisine. On the other hand, a perfect spot for an aperitivo is El Refolo, a tiny bar with a massive reputation that serves great wine, excellent cicchetti and delectable platters of cold cuts
and cheeses. Alternately, if you’re in search of a restaurant patronized by Venetian locals, then a good choice is the Il Nuovo Galeon. In addition to its charming maritime décor, this eatery serves a great selection of typical Venetian specialties.
Off the beaten track
The area between the Giardini and the Arsenale, in the sestiere of Castello, is one of the most authentic in the city, a neighbourhood where people are content to live far-removed from the city’s tourist hordes. Although you won’t find many places to shop, you can treat yourself to a break from your cultural tour de force. Whether you simply want to rest your feet while enjoying a cup of coffee or a light lunch, then your go-to address is the Serra dei Giardini. An Art Nouveau greenhouse, as its name suggests, the Serra dei Giardini offers an excellent assortment of organic and homemade products. Another mustvisit place for lovers of vegetarian or vegan food or those suffering from food allergies is Le Spighe in Via Garibaldi, the first
14 W H E R E V E N I C E I M AY 2017
© SVIDA_WHEREITALIA
Romena Brugnerotto Tourist Advisor www.rominvenice.com
boggi.com
MADE IN
Venezia | San Marco 1744 (Bacino Orseolo) | Tel. +39 041 296.03.21 | c/o Stazione Santa Lucia - Fondamenta Santa Lucia n. 20 | Tel. +39 041 524.64.45
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LE VA B ATA G I A O allowed larger craft to sail under it, and its name Although a visit to thisRISmarket of its famous, bustling market Vand means elbowingCORTE CO A by the CORTESE CAMPIELLO was changed to the Rialto bridge, possibly comings and goings of Venetians and tourists one’s way among throngs ofSTELLA Venetian shoppers, CORTE NO due to its association with the nearby district of the market nevertheless boasts two gems of who are either in search of a traditional ‘osteria’ CAMPIELLO Rivalto, or ‘high bank’. or ‘bacaro’ for an ‘ombra de vin’ or a ‘cicheto’, or historic and artistic interest: a loggia dating WIDMANN CAMPIELLO CAL GAB LE A dark period followed. In fact, DELLA duringCASON this time, looking to make purchase from one of the back to 1907 featuring a blaze of maritime Càa d'Oro R IE LI the bridge collapsed and was damaged several and symbolic decorations, including a number innumerable artisanal ‘botteghe’ that line its ‘calli’ C A M P I E L L O times. The daring but scenically impact-making and ‘campielli’ and flank both sides of the bridge. of esoteric elements that are mixed in with N SAN CANCIANO D R IO C A L L AN E M L E on new design (1591) submitted by Antonio da the fish, lobsters I D and octopi sculpted S C U the W OLE E LL Ponte consisted of a single 22 meter stone arch capitals ofC Aits FROM HISTORY TO LEGEND colonnade. More attentive visitors CAMPO span, supported by a broad rectangular deck The history of this iconic bridge dates back to will also noticeNOVA a marble plaque embedded S.MARIA CAMPO DELLA CAL LE L Ashows carrying two arcades of shops and ‘botteghe’ the year 1000 when it was built as a pontoon in one of its red brick facades, which N PESCARIA RGA IA Z AN C G. N A S A D A fronting on three roadways. bridge at the canal’s narrowest point. Due to regulations set centuries ago for minimumG A L L IN A S A L IZ RI O allowable sizes for lagoon fish. increased traffic it was replaced with a wooden DE CAMPO DE LA IM IR THE FAMOUS MARKET bridge in 1181, known as the ‘Ponte della BECARIE San Giovanni AC CAL OL LE D CAMPO CAMPO CurrentlyGrisostomo Venice’s market par excellence, it is Moneta’ both due to the toll that people had FOR SHOPPING ADDICTS EL F I ORN CESARE BATTISTI O CAL L E GIÀ the city’s divided into the Pescaria, where fish caught to pay when crossing it and because However, Rialto also C A Smeans shopping. While SANTI GIOVA TEL LI DELLA strolling through the ‘rione’s’ tiny streets or when E PAOLO Teatro Malibran BELLA VIENNA CAMPO C A LL E D E LEseveral crossing its bridge, you’ll come across SAN GIACOMETO ERBE CA CORTE SECONDA DE M unusual shops that are imbued with the L PIE San Giacomo DEL MILION SA L NS LO atmosphere of a bygone era. ON di Rialto I Casa di Marco Polo These include antique shops, artisans’ CAMPO workshops, old book binding shops where MPIELLO RIALTO Fontego EL SOL NUOVO books are still bound according to timedei Tedeschi honoured tradition, and jewelry stores selling O N VA CA C. D original creations made from Murano glass LLE Aponal TA DEL RA EL F DEL C .M ONT E A RT P IO EGO M Bhand, those in search of GH IN E other beads. On the Ponte U O NG R OD CAL . PA LE G LLE SA an amazing experience, should head to the di Rialto CO IA CAMPO ZZO CORTE LIZ TRE Z CAMPO AL DEL AD SAN BORTOLOMIO old post officeDEL which now houses the recently PRESTRIN A VOLTO PIO CAMPO X SAN LIO opened T Fondaco dei Tedeschi, a lavish, highRialto CAMPIELLO San Silvestro end shopping center and a magnificent feat of CAMPO SANTA MARIA SAL IZ A DE FORMOSA DA architecture that has been updated to brilliantly FONDAMENTA SAN SAN SILVESTRO C. D EL G L IO DEI PRETI ALIA C ZZO balance the old with new. The building boasts a Fontego ALLE L AR C. LA RGA marvelous terrace offering visitors a 360-degree GA CORTE DEL Santa Maria Dolfin Manin MA ZZ Palazzo Rava CORTE SABION CAMPO IN view over Venice. I DEL MONDO della Fava C CAMPOIELLO DE LA FAVA . DEL C Rialto CORTE NUOVO A L ICE DE LA PASINA MA RZA (Palazzo Cavalli) SAN SALVADOR o della Consolazione RIA
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WHERE NOW | SHOPPING
GIFT
GUIDE Whether you choose an accessory or a fragrance for him or for her, a jewel or some local item, you will certainly be spoilt for choice in the magic of Venice. Take advantage of a stroll through its picturesque ‘calli’ to treat yourself to an accessory or some other alluring detail of style. Where ® guarantees that you won’t leave empty-handed!
▲ RAY-BAN Cheerful and colourful, the new round ‘Ja-Jo’ sunglasses are available with tinted lenses in eight colours: high-quality solid colours designed to offer supreme visual clarity, comfort and protection. www.ray-ban.com
18 W H E R E V E N I C E I M AY 2017
► CHOPARD The ‘Happy Hearts’ line embraces the heart as a symbolic motif of the ‘Happy Diamonds’ collection, interpreting it with playful creativity. This timeless sautoir necklace shines with elegant hearts in malachite and diamonds. www.chopard.com
FOR HER
◄ MICHAEL MICHAEL KORS Emboldened with leather floral appliqués, these Kit block-heeled sandals channel the season’s bohemian mood. Pair them with a wrap dress and a monochrome handbag for a feminine-chic statement. www.michaelkors.it
► CHANTECLER On the occasion of its seventieth anniversary, Chantecler celebrates the essence of the brand, expressed in the ‘Anima 70’ collection by iconic symbols and colors: pictured here, the brand’s iconic 18k yellow gold bracelet with one salmon pink symbol. www.chantecler.it
▼ GIORGIO ARMANI A sought-after, original model designed for more informal business occasions, this suede and fabric work bag with a small padded handle and double handles in a coordinated fabric is one of the trendiest proposals for the spring/summer 2017 season. www.armani.com
FOR HIM
▲ ROLEX A new entry from the ‘Cellini’ collection, the ‘Cellini Moonphase’ features an exclusive display of the lunar cycle. It is offered in 18 kt Everose gold and has a white lacquer dial with a blue enamelled disc at 6 o’clock showing the full moon and the new moon. www.rolex.com
◄ ISSEY MIYAKE The brand’s new summer fragrances are luminous, transparent and joyful. This ‘Eau d’Issey pour Homme-Eau de Toilette pour l’été’ recreates a summery, sunny atmosphere with an explosion of exotic fruit. www.isseymiyake.com
▲ FRATELLI ROSSETTI Synonymous with style and Italian quality throughout the world, Fratelli Rossetti’s inimitable style will not go unnoticed in this casual sport shoe. Made from butter-soft leather with a rubber sole, it embodies the essence of a chic, street-style look. www.fratellirossetti.com
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Innovative styles American retail giant Michael Kors brings the brand’s inimitable style, luxury and elegance to the Lagoon, plus abundant innovations! By Stefania Vida
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or lovers of fashion, San Marco 1461 is the go-to address for a truly unique shopping experience in Venice. At this unique space, located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, elegance and simplicity are part of the style of the collections signed by Michael Kors. The brand’s in-house team designed the store’s environment to reflect the label’s sophisticated, jet set aesthetic. At this new space, you can satisfy your interest about the latest trends by previewing the new spring/summer 2017 collections which have now been enhanced by a new arrival: the MICHAEL Michael Kors clothing line. This is the latest addition to the designer’s in-store lines of accessories which includes bags, footwear, watches, jewelry and eyewear. Alongside the brand’s latest offerings 20 W H E R E V E N I C E I M AY 2017
of apparel for the season, the boutique will also feature the MICHAEL Michael Kors special capsule collection of dresses. Dedicated to women on the go, this summer collection offers dresses for every occasion, from weddings to summer parties and casual daywear. Silhouettes are floaty yet structured, and include mini, midi and maxi dresses; fabrics are delicate and luxe featuring intricate laces and floral embellishments, and the colour palette is an array of bright yellows and blues contrasted with earthy tones such as khakis, creams and reds. A collection ideal for the warmer months when a desire for colour is irresistible! >> San Marco, 1461 (Campo San Moisè) T: 041 5224500. www.michaelkors.com - www.michaelkors.it
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM
Guidelines ACCESSORIES
The
This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. MAP LOCATIONS- Note that references in bold at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 62-63. TRANSPORT-References to vaporetto lines and stops are based on departure from the Santa Lucia railway station. SHOPPING -Shopping hours are generally from
10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Venice) and on Monday mornings. Ask your concierge. Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.
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TAX-FREE SHOPPING
By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund. UnionPay Service Hotline: 00 800 800 95516 e-mail: europe@unionpayintl.com
UnionPay is a global payment network originated from China, responsible for the inter-bank payment via UnionPay system worldwide. By March 2017, over 450,000 merchants in Italy accept UnionPay card for payment, among which 35,000 merchants are located in Venice. This allows hundred of thousands of affluent Chinese customers to shop with their favourite cards. UnionPay also actively work with famous retail groups, such as DFS Group, McArthurGlen Designer outlets, SINA hotels, Airport dutyfree shops, to provide special discount or services for UnionPay cardholders. DINING
Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30 € or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. SIGHTSEEING
Information about our selection of museums and monuments is checked as carefully as possible. However, telephone numbers, opening hours, works displayed and site accessibility are subject to change depending on the time of the year, restorations, loans or changes in management. Ask your concierge.
Anatema
Rossana Righini delights customers with her scarves, brooches, costume jewelry, bags, hats and silk, handmade ties. Her windows and display cases express the owner’s philosophy: “The culture of beauty, the magic of elegance”. PASSION TIP Anatema also stocks small Murano glass jewelry. Open daily 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. www.anatema.it. San Polo, 2603. T: 041 5242221. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4
Fanny Gloves Colourful, handmade gloves, from the most classic to the most eccentric, lined with cashmere, silk or lapin. Since 2001, Giorgio Fontanive has continued to run this family-owned business, established by his father-in-law, a Neapolitan glove maker. The brand recently opened a second branch in Cannaregio, in Rio Terà San Leonardo. Open daily 9.30am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7.30pm. www.fannygloves. it. San Polo, 2723 (Calle Saoneri) T. 041 5228266. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D2
Francis Model Stylish, high-quality bags with a focus on colour. Established in 1965, this small artisanal ‘bottega’ has always remained faithful to the diktats of Made in Italy craftsmanship. Located just steps from the Rialto Bridge, Ruggero De Zorzi devotes himself to his craft with pride and passion. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.francismodel.it. San Polo, 773/A (Ruga Ravano). T: 041 5212889. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato stop). Map E3
G. Pagan The result of ongoing research, G. Pagan’s bags and accessories are made from prized materials: crocodile, python and even eel. Everything here is about style, it’s worth a visit! It also has another store in Calle della Mandola. Open daily 10am7.30pm. San Marco, 54 (Sotto le Procuratie). T: 041 5208924. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop).
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Giovanna Zanella For the past ten years, Venetian designercobbler Giovanna Zanella has been creating exclusive lines of shoes for men and women at her workshop located just a stone’s throw from the Rialto Bridge. Each pair is endowed with its own, unrepeatable personality and Giovanna refers to them as “magical, haute couture creations” because they are often enhanced by a surprise element like touches of nylon, cobra heads, pistils or fringes. Open Mon-Sat 1.30pm-8pm. www. giovannazanella.it. Castello, 5641 (Calle near Campo San Lio). T: 041 5235500. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Giuliana Longo A milliner boasting a longstanding family tradition dating back to the early 20th century, Giuliana Longo’s fame has spread far beyond the boundaries of Venice, thanks to her unique Venetian aesthetic. Her shop is the dream hatcupboard of any true sartorialist, amidst old-world furnishings, original panama hats and handmade headgear. PASSION TIP The only shop in town where you can find authentic gondolier’s hats. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.giulianalongo. com. San Marco, 4813 (Calle del Lovo). T: 041 5226454. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
New home fragrances In addition to its other lines, at the boutiques of Venetian artistic perfumery brand, The Merchant of Venice, you can discover its new exclusive collection of sophisticated, high-quality home fragrances. Crafted in Murano glass and developed in collaboration with the renowned NasonMoretti furnace, the line comprises ‘String’ lanterns, available in various chromatic combinations inspired by the shape of cognac glasses. These lanterns are scented with tea lights whose fragrances reference the essences of the classic collection of The Merchant of Venice: warm, welcoming Amber, heady Cashmere wood, the invigorating, clean outdoor scent of Egyptian linen and the freshness of Orange Blossom. Their hallmark features include the optical effect defined by the light that bounces off the unusual striped texture of the glass, creating plays of light and colour and the fact that they are rechargeable. www.themerchantofvenice.com Flagship Store San Marco, 1895 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 2960559. Spezieria all’Ercole d’Oro Cannaregio, 2233 (Strada Nova, Santa Fosca). T: 041 720600. Concept Store Murano Fondamenta dei Vetrai, 114. Murano. T: 041 5274297.
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[ FA SHION DESIGNERS]
Luxury Top Brands A new addition every day! The world of designer boutiques in Venice is making waves, and the majority of big-name brands are located around St. Mark’s Square, the great heart of Venice. By heading towards the Accademia from St. Mark’s Square, you will find yourself in Calle Larga XXII Marzo, the widest street in the city, lined with the window displays of the most coveted international brands. A system of ‘calli’ (the word for street in Venetian dialect) known as the ‘Mercerie’ leads from the Clock Tower in St. Mark’s Square to the Rialto, where Venice’s old ‘botteghe’ (workshops) have now been replaced by luxury boutiques.
Sizing Women clothes IT EUR US UK 36 32 1 4 38 34 2 6 40 36 4 8 42 38 6 10 44 40 8 12 46 42 10 14 48 44 12 16 Women shoes IT EUR US UK 36 36 6 3 37 37 6.5 4 38 38 7.5 5 39 39 8.5 6 40 40 9 7 41 41 9.5 8 Men clothes IT EUR US UK 50 46 36 36 52 48 38 38 54 50 40 40 56 52 42 42 58 54 44 44 60 56 46 46 Men shoes IT EUR US UK 40 40 7.5 6 41 41 8 7 42 42 8.5 8 43 43 9 9 44 44 10.5 10 45 45 11.5 11 46 46 12 12 22 W H E R E V E N I C E I M AY 2017
BALENCIAGA—www.balenciaga.com Open daily 10am-7pm. Calle Vallaresso, 1310. T: 041 5230806. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 BORSALINO—www.borsalino.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sun 11am7pm. San Marco, 4822. T: 041 2411945. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto-Riva del Carbon stop). Map F4 BOTTEGA VENETA—www.bottegaveneta. com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. San Marco, 1473 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5228489. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop or S. Maria del Giglio stop). Map F5 CHANEL—www.chanel.com. Open Mon-Sun 10am-7pm. San Marco, 2070 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2405399. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Valleresso stop). Map E5 CHANEL BEAUTY NEW OPENING San Marco, 1254/A. T: 041 2708699. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Valleresso stop). Map F3 CHURCH’S—www.church-footwear.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am7pm. San Marco, 1316 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2410147. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 DAMIANI NEW OPENING www.damiani.com. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 DIOR— www.dior.com Open daily 10am-7pm. Piazza San Marco, 1255 (Calle Larga de I’Ascension). T: 041 2411636. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 DOLCE&GABBANA—www.dolcegabbana.it Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco,
Calf leather pouch by VERSUS VERSACE, with a central silver tone, Safety Pin and Versus logo, that will pair perfectly with any spring/summer outfit.
223/226 (corner of Mercerie dell'Orologio). T: 041 5209991. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Giardinetti). Map F4 ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA—www.zegna.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. Bocca di Piazza San Marco, 1241. T: 041 5221204. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4 ETRO—www.etro.com. Open daily 10am7.30pm. San Marco, 1340 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5232599. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 FENDI—www.fendi.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-7pm. San Marco, 1582 (Calle Frezzaria). T: 041 2778532. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4 FRATELLI ROSSETTI—www.fratellirossetti. com Open daily 10am-7pm. Campo S. Salvador, 4800. T: 041 5230571. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto stop). Map F4 • Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. San Marco, 1477 (San Moisè). T: 041 5220819. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map F5 GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani.com Open Mon- Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. San Marco, 4412 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 8503048. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map F4 • Armani Jeans at Marco Polo Airport. GUCCI—www.gucci.com. Open daily 10am7.30pm. San Marco, 2102 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2413968. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4 • Open daily 10am-7.30pm Piazza San Marco, 258 T: 041 5229119. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Giardinetti stop). Map E5 HERMÈS—italy.hermes.com. Open daily 10.30am-7pm. San Marco, 1292. T: 041 2410715. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map F5
LORO PIANA—www.loropiana.com. Open daily TOD’S—www.tods.com. Mon-Sat 10am10am-7pm. San Marco Ascensione, 1301. T: 7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-1pm/2pm-7pm. 041 2770695. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 San Marco, 2251 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 • Marco T: 041 5206603. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 Polo Airport, Viale Luigi Broglio, 8 (open (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5 6.30am-9pm). T: 041 5415072. VALENTINO—www.valentino.com LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com Open 6.30am-9pm. Marco Polo Airport. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 10.30am-8pm. T: 041 2698001. (open 6.30am-9pm). San Marco, 1345. T: 041 5224500. Vaporetto line VERSACE—www.versace.com Open daily 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 10am-7.30pm. San Marco, 1462 (Campo San MICHAEL KORS—www.michaelkors.com. Moisè). T: 041 5200057. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 San Marco, 1461 (Campo San Moisè). T: 041 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 • Marco 2960312. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San MarcoPolo Airport. T: 041 2611556 (open 6.30amVallaresso stop). Map F5 9pm). MISSONI— www.missoni.com. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco, 1318/A (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5205733. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com. Open daily 10am7.30pm. San Marco, 1471 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 8106066.Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5
T Fondaco dei Tedeschi
PRADA—www. prada.com. Open daily 10am7.30pm. San Marco, 1464/1469 (Salizada San Moise). T: 041 5283966. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5
Just steps from the Rialto Bridge, T Fondaco dei Tedeschi is the address for luxury shopping in Venice. Spread out over a surface area of 7,000 square metres, the Fondaco was first constructed in 1228 and has been a part of the city of Venice for as many as eight centuries. In addition to hosting the collections of the most coveted Italian and international fashion brands, accessories, cosmetics and fragrances, this lavish four-story department store will not only be used as a space for events, exhibitions and cultural initiatives but also as a venue designed to promote authentic Venetian craftsmanship. The ground floor atrium of this luxury department store is home to AMO, the new exclusive Venetian café/restaurant run by the Alajmo brothers offering a gastronomic experience embodying the real soul of Venice, with its symbols and mysteries (www.alajmo.it/amo). And, to top it all, this stunning historic building, overlooking the Grand Canal, is also a gem of architecture which, per se, is worth a visit! The view from the rooftop terrace is breathtaking. T Fondaco dei Tedeschi by DFS Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge). www.tfondaco.com. Map F3
RENÉ CAOVILLA— www.renecaovilla.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. San Marco, 1296. T: 041 5238038. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4 ROBERTO CAVALLI— www.robertocavalli.com Open daily 10am-7pm. San Marco, 1314. T: 041 5299020. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 ROCCA 1794— www.rocca1794.com. Open daily 10.30am-7pm. Piazza San Marco, 125. T: 041 5201014. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4 SAINT LAURENT—www.ysl.com. Open MonSat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. San Marco, 1302. T: 041 5202211. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— www.ferragamo.com. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-7pm. San Marco, 2098 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2778509. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5 • Marco Polo Airport. T: 041 268357 (open 6.30am-9pm). TIFFANY & CO. NEW OPENING www.tiffany.it. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5
Blending the exotic with the metropolitan, this GIORGIO ARMANI outfit features wide trousers and top wear for a perfect male silhouette.
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SHOPPING La Parigina
Tax Free Refund Guide 1. VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a value added tax on goods and services, and is part of the European Union’s value added tax system. 2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a VAT refund. This refund does not cover the services supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies. 3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: • you are a non EU resident; • the goods purchased are intended for personal or family use only and are carried in your luggage; • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds 154,94 Euro (VAT included); • the purchase is certified by an invoice. This invoice should include a description of the goods purchased, your personal information as well as the details of your passport or any other equivalent document; • the goods leave EU territory by the end of the third month after the month that you bought them; • several specific customs formalities are complied with; • the invoice is returned to the Italian retailer within four months after the purchase was made. 4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must be shown at the customs exit point when leaving EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items into your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs BEFORE checking in). 5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return the original invoice, regularly endorsed by the customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice must be returned within four months from the date when the document was issued. 6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian retailer (however, make sure that the shop you’ve chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax Free” sign in its window). 7. Several Tax-Free companies are able to offer immediate VAT cash refunds when the goods leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating the passenger from having to return the invoice to the retailer). However, this procedure only applies at major international airports or main border crossings. Most major department stores have Tax Free Refund offices. 8. The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply the payment of a small administrative sum which is directly deducted from the amount of VAT refunded to the traveller. 9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund within a reasonable period of time, he or she should re-contact the Italian retailer or one of the aforementioned companies. 10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded directly by customs offices. Source: www.agenziadoganemonopoli.gov.it/ portale/ee/citizen/vta-refund
24 W H E R E V E N I C E I M AY 2017
An historic Venetian shoe shop which has been producing its own-name sleek, butter-soft leather shoes for men and women since the 1940s. It also stocks a wide selection of international brands including Church’s, Timberland, Camper, Michael Kors, Bikkemberg sandals and Siton loafers. La Parigina also carries an assortment of luxury sportswear. www.laparigina.it. Open daily 10am7.30pm. San Marco, 733. T: 041 5231555. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4 • Open daily 9am-1pm/4pm-8pm. Venezia Lido, Gran Viale S. M. Elisabetta 14, T: 041 2420475. Vaporetto line 2 (Lido stop). Off Map
Macrì This shoe boutique in San Marco - its other branch is located in Frezzeria - has been a reference point for discerning Venetians since the 1970s. Its owner Jacopo Nobili sells sought-after, classic men and women’s shoes, distinguished by their Made in Italy aesthetic. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco, 420 (Calle Larga). T: 041 522 9956. Vaporetto line 1 (San
Marco stop) Map F4• Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco Frezzeria, 1583. T: 041 522 8997.
Michele De Fina Highly select leather shoes, its owner oversees each stage of the working process from the cutting of the leather to the end creation. Craftsmanship and Italian style are the hallmark traits of Venetian shoe designer Michele De Fina. Open daily 10am-1pm/2pm-7pm. www.micheledefina.com. San Marco, 318/A (Calle della Canonica). T: 041 3030189. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop or San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
René Caovilla In the 1950s, twenty-year-old René started working at his family’s footwear factory, revealing his talent as a ‘footwear sculptor’. Based in Venice, he has collaborated with fashion houses of the likes of Valentino, Dior, Galliano, Chanel and is noted for the stunning line of "jewel shoes" he co-created with Karl Lagerfeld. Shoe-designer to the stars, A-listers who adore his creations include Gwen Stefani, Robin Wright, Britney Spears and Sarah Jessica Parker. PASSION TIP His pumps in Venetian lace are truly
The Rialto Market
Rialto Market A trip to Venice is not complete without a visit to the Rialto Market, possibly one of the city’s most authentic and traditional experiences. This is one of Venice’s most ancient markets, a one-of-a-kind place crowded with Venetians, shopkeepers and tourists eager to shop. It is located near the Rialto Bridge, on the San Polo side, extending across the Canal Grande, between Campo San Giacomo and Campo della Pescaria. Campo San Giacomo is a beautiful square surrounded by a portico called Sottoportego del Bancogiro, an ancient bank where merchants would gather to negotiate. If you’d like to try the famous 'cicchetti', accompanied by a glass of wine or a spritz, a number of 'bacari', Venice’s traditional ‘osterie’, can also be found in the area. Several of these bars face
onto the opposite side of the building, on a magnificent plaza crowded with tables, and from here, if you walk along the river, you’ll reach a large food market, and finally, the Pescaria, the famous Fish Market. From early morning, on any day of the week (except Sunday) this vibrant place is frequented by Venetian locals, who regularly shop here, browsing its colourful stalls that are located under a loggia near the Grand Canal. Inscriptions about fish-related regulatory measures, proclaimed by the Republic of Venice, can still be found on the walls! >> Fish Market: Open Tues-Sat 7.30amnoon. Food Market: Mon-Sat 7.30am1.30pm. San Polo 330-338 (Campo della Pescaria). Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato) or traghetto from Campo Santa Sofia (€2).
SHOPPING ADVERTORIAL
iconic! Open daily 10am-7pm. www.renecaovilla. com. San Marco, 1296. T: 041 5238038. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4
SV Lab As its name suggests, more than a shop, SV Lab is a creative workshop that its owner Carlo Sartori likes to describe as “his parallel world”. Not just a shop selling shoes and accessories - a place where you can create a sophisticated, eccentric total look - but also an open space where it is not unusual to find artists at work... Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-6pm. www.svlab.it. San Marco, 2663 (Campo San Maurizio). T: 041 5220595. Vaporetto line 1 (Giglio stop). Map E5
ART GALLERIES Bugno Art Gallery Situated in front of the La Fenice Theatre, the gallery has cooperated with well-known artists on the Venetian scene including Guidi, Giuseppe Santomaso, Emilio Vedova and Armando Pizzinato, as well as other international contemporary painters. Particularly noteworthy among the illustrious names represented by the gallery are Luca Campigotto, Paolo Ventura, Ben Vautier, Mario Schifano, Arman, Salvo, Joe Tilson, Maurizio Galimberti, Marco Zanta, Giovanni Chiaramonte. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am7pm; Sun 4pm-7.30pm by appointment. www. bugnoartgallery.it. San Marco, 1996/d (Campo San Fantin). T. 041 5231305. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E4
Contini Galleria d’Arte Established at the end of the 1960s by Stefano Contini to indulge his passion for art, the gallery is a reference point for dealers and collectors specializing in contemporary art works and sculptures. In addition to Venice, other branches of the Contini galleries are located in Mestre and Cortina D’Ampezzo. Artists showcased include Botero, Mitoraj, Christo, Picasso, Fontana and Giacometti. Open daily 10.30am-1pm/2pm-7.30pm. www.continiarte.com. San Marco, 2288 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5230357. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso). Map E5
Galleria Ravagnan Founded in 1967, in a fairly small yet evocative space in the historic centre, the Ravagnan Gallery is one of the city’s oldest, most exclusive art galleries in the city. It exhibits works by artists of national and international renown, exports art works throughout the world and participates at prominent international and American art fairs. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10am-6pm. www. ravagnangallery.com. Piazza San Marco, 50/a. T: 041 5203021. Vaporetto line 1 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map F4
CLOTHING MEN & WOMEN Al Duca d'Aosta Originally established in Venice in 1902, Al Duca d’Aosta now boasts stores in six cities across the Triveneto region: Venice, Padua, Verona, Mestre, Treviso and Udine. The historical four-storey Venice location features over 100 top fashion brands for men and women, carefully selected to offer its clientele quality and elegance. These include casual men’s lines for a sporty-chic look, sartorial designs for savvy-style gentlemen and women’s
GEMS OF VENICE In the heart of Venice near the Rialto Bridge, this is a unique boutique and workshop where precious stones are cut and transformed into genuine, wearable works of art. For more than thirty years, Gems of Venice has sourced several of the world's most precious stones including jade, diamonds and gems… taking us back to the fascinating voyages of Venetian merchant Marco Polo.
wear, featuring the iconic accessories of the latest collections, including small leather goods and bijoux, for a glamorous, cosmopolitan aesthetic. The store offers numerous special facilities and services for its customers, including a Personal Shopping service and Tax Free Shopping. Open Mon-Sat 10am7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.alducadaosta.com. San Marco, 4945. T: 041 5220733. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Boggi Milano An easy yet sophisticated look for businessmen on the go, but, above all, a guarantee of style for those who appreciate quality. Boggi Milano offers garments aimed at a contemporary, modern and cosmopolitan man who is not prepared to sacrifice the classics of the male wardrobe: the suit, a second skin that is so comfortable that it can be worn on any occasion. Other locations: Cannaregio (inside the Santa Lucia Railway Station, Platform 6- Fondamenta Santa Lucia, 20) and Marco Polo Airport. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. www. boggi.it. San Marco, 1744 (Bacino Orseolo). T: 041 2960321. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4
DEPARTMENT STORES Coin Excelsior Located in Cannaregio, just a few steps from the Rialto Bridge, this luxury department store store extends over four floors surrounding the original indoor courtyard where designer Felice Limosani’s lighting installation is showcased. The store provides a selection of both Italian and International fashion brands, as well as furniture (on the top floor),
www.gemsofvenice.it San Polo, 1044 (Ruga Rialto-Rughetta Ravano) T: 041 5225148
cosmetics and luxury perfumery (ground floor). Open daily 10am-8.30pm. www.coinexcelsior.com. Cannaregio, 5787. T: 041 5203581. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F3
T Fondaco dei Tedeschi The recently renovated 16th century building that extends over 7000 sqm is a luxury shopping, food and cultural destination. Surrounding a central courtyard, the store offers the best in leading Italian and international fashion brands, accessories, jewellery and watches, wines and spirits, beauty and fragrances, food and a rich selection of local gifts. Don’t miss the specially curated cultural program on the 4th floor and the breathtaking view from the roof terrace. In partnership with Premier Tax Free, the store will also offer an instant detax at the cash desk when the payment is made by credit card, the first of this kind in Europe. www.TFondaco.com. Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge). T: 041 3142000. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).
Map E3
FASHION OUTLETS Noventa di Piave Designer Outlet With more than 130 stores, cafés and restaurants, visitors can find their favourite labels with price reductions of up to 70%, all year round, and further discounts at the annual summer and winter sales. From iconic fashion brands like Prada, Gucci, Armani, Fendi, Jil Sander and Paul Smith to sporting labels, like Nike and X-Bionic, and high-street favourites, like Guess and Desigual. Easy to reach from Venice, Treviso, Jesolo, Padua and the beaches in the region, it offers endless entertainment, from the children’s adventure play area w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 25
SHOPPING
Artistic glass in Murano
Marco, 130/131/132. T: 041 5224563. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Cartier In addition to its renowned collections of haute joaillerie, Cartier is also famous for its priceless timepieces, a perfect mix of design and technology, enhanced by precious metals and diamonds. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am7pm. www.cartier.it. San Marco, 1474/1475 (Calle San Moisè). T: 041 8842511. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5
Chopard Famed for its creativity, state-of-the-art technology and outstanding savoir-faire, the Swiss Jewelry brand opens doors to jet-set luxury and glamour, while its traditional watches are made with all the aplomb of a master craftsman. Open daily 10.15am-6.30pm. www.chopard.it. Piazza San Marco, 51. T: 041 5231883. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Glassmaking had already become an integral part of life in the Venetian lagoon in the 7th century B.C. Furthermore, after the year 1000 A.D. its production had become so important that it was protected by specific laws: the furnaces used to create the molten glass were a constant fire hazard in the narrow streets of Venice. As a consequence, all the glass workshops were moved to Murano where they are still located today. It was here that eyeglasses were invented in the 13th century and here that, in 1369, mirrors began to be produced. It was also here that, in 1450, Angelo Barovier invented crystal. Glass was a rare commodity throughout the Renaissance: it was only in 1827 that production on an industrial level began. At that point, blown glass or glass produced by lampworking became a highly prized material used for artistic purposes, achieving its height of splendor during the Art Nouveau period. Artists including Lalique, Dammouse and Tiffany
sought out the glassblowers of Murano to produce their famous works. As a result of this experience, during the mid-20th century, real masters of the art began to emerge in Murano including Signoretto, Ballarin, Zanetti and Vidal. Their works are highly coveted objects, true collectors’ items which are often displayed at museums. Murano has numerous glass factories, several of which boast an age-old history (i.e. Barovier&Toso) or a list of particularly prestigious collaborations (i.e. Venini). Crafting authentic Murano glass is no easy task and does not come cheap. Large objects require hours of work, so don’t expect to take your custom-made lamp home on the same day. Furthermore, each piece is unique meaning that small imperfections are an integral part of the value of the object. Finally, the island’s glass factories are equipped to make safe deliveries anywhere in the world… ask your concierge!
to restaurants and cafés and even an annual summer music festival. Tax refund for Non-EU citizens. Open daily 10am-10pm. www.mcarthurglen.com. Via Marco Polo, 1 (Noventa di Piave, 30 minutes from Venice). T: 0421 5741. Off Map
10am-8pm. www.palmanovaoutlet.it. Take the A4 highway Venezia-Trieste and exit at Palmanova. Infoline: T: 0432 837810. Off Map
Palmanova Outlet Village
Audemars Piguet
Just one hour from Venice, Palmanova Outlet Village offers 90 stores with the trendiest brands discounted by up to 70% and open all year around: Adidas-Reebok, Aldo Bruè, Baldinini, Alberta Ferretti-Moschino, Calvin Klein, Fedon, Iceberg, Ixos-Malloni, Nike, Piquadro, Pollini and many others. Tax refund for Non-EU citizens. In addition to shopping, Palmanova Outlet Village makes you discover a land full of history and taste: the picturesque hills of the Collio region, the landscapes of Friuli’s Dolomites and the Alps, close to the Karst plateau with the historical sites of the Great War and the star-shaped city of Palmanova, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Open daily 26 W H E R E V E N I C E I M AY 2017
JEWELRY & WATCHES A must-visit stopover for luxury watch lovers. A purveyor of classic watches since 1875, Audemars Piguet is the place to go for elegant timepieces, made to the very highest standards. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-6.30pm. www.audemarspiguet.com. Piazza San Marco, 18. T: 041 5285519. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Boncompagni Venezia This historic boutique in St. Mark’s Square stocks some of Italy’s most coveted jewelry brands, offering its clientele a unique selection of beautifully crafted pieces. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am6pm. www.boncompagnivenezia.com. Piazza San
Damiani A reference point in the world of high-end jewelry, Damiani is renowned for its unmistakable style and innovative technical solutions, including its ‘a lunette d’illusione’ setting designed to highlight the brilliance of its stones. www.damiani.com. San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4
Dodo The range of luxurious yet cute gold jewelry created by Dodo, the brand founded by Pomellato in 1995, is by now a classic either for gift or collection purposes thanks to its iconic good luck charms, each of which has its own special meaning. www.dodo.it. c/o Coin Excelsior (www.coinexcelsior.com). Cannaregio, 5787. T: 041 5203581. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F3
Gems of Venice For more than thirty years, Gems of Venice has sourced the most precious stones, which are then processed at its workshop near the Rialto Bridge, in the heart of Venice, to become authentic wearable art. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-9.30pm; Sun 10.30am2pm/3.30pm-6.30pm. San Polo, 1044. T: 041 5225148. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4
IWC Schaffhausen Swiss watchmaker IWC has opened an elegant space in Venice’s famed and fabled St. Mark’s Square. The brand’s new boutique, located in one of the most beautiful cities in the world, is a must-visit for any watch enthusiast. Fans of its luxury timepieces are invited to discover the fascinating world of IWC’s six watch families, its innovative craftsmanship and all the allure of highend watchmaking. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-6.30pm. www.iwc.com. Piazza San Marco, 43. T: 041 8842451. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map F5
Jaeger-LeCoultre A meeting place for collectors and haute horlogerie enthusiasts, at this boutique customers will have the pleasure of discovering the latest creations and exquisite timepieces designed by this master of Swiss watchmaking. Open daily 10am-7pm. www.jaeger-lecoultre.com. Piazza San Marco, 65. T: 041 884241. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F5
Nardi Venezia A combination of a love of precious stones and a passion for the art of goldsmithery make Nardi’s
SHOPPING
PHOTO © DE LUNA_WHEREITALIA
Unique in Venice
PHOTO © DE LUNA_WHEREITALIA
Eredi Jovon
Eredi Jovon's cameo
La Bottega dei Mascareri
Artisanal ‘botteghe’, tiny jewel-like boutiques and vintage shops, this 'unique' city offers an array of 'unique' locations where you can indulge in an authentic shopping experience and purchase objet d’art, fabrics and accessories that you'll be hard put to find elsewhere. While strolling through its ‘calli’, you will discover how the tradition cultivated by the latter endows this city with its characteristic vibrancy… La Bottega dei Mascareri The workshop of the Boldrin brothers specializes in the crafting of a variety of papier mache Venetian masks, including jesters, elves and characters from the ‘Commedia dell’Arte’ for a trip back into 18th century Venice. The Mascareri have also worked for the theatre, the cinemas and fashion shows, and are considered among several of the most established manufacturers of collector’s items. They were the first mask makers to embellish their masks with decorations by Tiepolo. Open daily 9am-6pm. www. mascarer.com. San Polo, 80 (Vaporetto line 1 or 2, Rialto stop). T: 041 5223857 and San Polo, 2720 T: 041 5242887 (Vaporetto line 1 or 2, San Tomà stop). Map E3 Eredi Jovon A celebrated Venetian jeweler since 1934, and the owner of one of the few remaining historical shops on the Rialto bridge, Eredi Jovon is famous for its hand-carved Italian shell and blue agate cameos,
set in silver or gold, and available at factory prices or on special offer. The shop is also renowned for its beautiful coral, Murano glass and blackamoor jewelry. High quality, superior craftsmanship and its wide assortment of cameos and customized coral jewelry allow Eredi Jovon to satisfy the individual tastes of even the most discerning customers. WHERE TIP Eredi Jovon daily crafts fully handmade cameos, created upon request based on a picture. All creations can be ordered online and shipped all around the world, thanks to an efficient e-commerce service. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.eredijovon.com. Ponte di Rialto, 5325. T: 041 5228979 (Vaporetto line 1 or 2, Rialto stop). Map F4 Piedàterre Tucked away under an arcade just steps from the Rialto bridge is a tiny boutique with an astonishing selection of handmade slippers, where Alessandra and Renato make and sell colourful ‘furlane’ (slippers), handcrafted with recycled bicycle-tyre
Piedàterre
treads, ideal for finding your footing on a gondola. Their creations are available in coloured velvet, brocade, printed fabrics or recycled shirting, provided by their customers. Highly original and absolutely unmissable! Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.piedaterre-venice.com. San Polo, 60 (Ruga Rialto, Sotoportego dei Oresi). T: 041 5285513. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato). Map E3 Tessitura Bevilacqua Artisanal weavers specializing in the production of exquisite, decorative fabrics for furnishings and curtains. A unique place! Since 1875, the company has practiced the art of weaving on original looms that once belonged to the Venetian School of Silk. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-4pm (Sat-Sun by appointment). www.luigi-bevilacqua.com. Santa Croce 1320. T: 041 721566. Vaporetto line 1 (Riva de Biasio stop). Map E5
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SHOPPING jewelry rare accessories to be worn or collected, the epitome of sheer Venetian elegance. Open daily 10am-6.30pm. www.nardi-venezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 69. T: 041 5225733. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F5
designs. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.pomellato.com. San Marco, 2031 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5231909. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4
Omega
ROLEX RETAILER Salvadori was founded in Venice in 1857. A member of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses, Salvadori purchases its diamonds from Antwerp and Tel Aviv, accompanied by the highest diamond quality certificates. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-6.30pm. www.salvadorivenezia.eu. Diamond Atelier Venice: Piazza San Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Salvadori Boutique Rolex: Piazza San Marco, 44. T: 041 2602313. Salvadori Boutique Panerai: Piazza San Marco, 47. T: 041 5200899. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5
Omega is a pioneer in the field of watchmaking. Quality and innovation are key to the vision of one of Switzerland’s most famous haute horologists. At its Venetian boutique, you can find all the excellence of these precious creations thanks to its extensive collection of luxurious timepieces for men and women. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.omegawatches.com. San Marco, 1291. T: 041 5220820. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco stop or San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Pomellato Established in 1967 as an artisanal workshop, over the years, its contemporary jewelry has captivated wearers around the world. Pomellato creates highly sought-after collections featuring a range of stones boasting myriad colours and ultra-feminine
Salvadori
Tag Heuer Since 1860 Tag Heuer has been setting milestones in Swiss watchmaking. It is the first watchmaker to master luxury sports chronographs with an
unsurpassed precision. Tag Heuer’s constant quest for innovation, excellence, performance and prestige is reflected in its partnerships with the Red Bull Racing F1 team. Open daily 10am-7pm. www.tagheuer.com. San Marco, 1298 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5211401. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Tiffany & Co. Founded in 1837 in New York, Tiffany & Co. is a world-renowned jeweller. Since its introduction in 1886, the Tiffany® Setting has been known as the ultimate symbol of love, paving the way for Tiffany’s legendary collection of engagement rings. Bold, modern collections, including the elegant, minimalist creations designed by Elsa Peretti and the brightlycoloured lines by Paloma Picasso, have made Tiffany a destination for those seeking spectacular beauty, style and the very best in design. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.tiffany.it. San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5
PASSION SHOPPING Ca’ Macana One of the oldest and finest mask making workshops in Venice for Carnival, theatre, film production and parties. Ca’ Macana crafts authentic handmade masks in the same way that Venetian artisans did 800 years ago, never repeating a decoration in order to ensure that each mask is unique. Thanks to their expertise, they also hold conferences and courses on the history of Venetian masks and traditional mask-making techniques. Their masks were featured in important film productions including “Eyes Wide Shut” by Stanley Kubrick and in operas including those staged by the Vienna Opera House. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.camacana.com. Maskmaking and Courses: Dorsoduro, 3215. Showrooms: Dorsoduro, 3172 and Dorsoduro 1169. T: 041 2776142. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop).
The Merchant of Venice
The perfect shopping for him Boggi Milano has two sales points in Venice. One is located at the Santa Lucia railway station, while the other, its historic flagship store, is in Bacino Orseolo, the favourite docking station of gondoliers lying just behind St. Mark’s Square. The brand is dedicated to men who love all forms of Made-in-Italy elegance: classical, informal, metropolitan, casual and ideal for travel. Impeccable yet unquestionably practical and functional, the result of meticulous technical research and performance fabrics. For the spring/summer season, Boggi has drawn ADVERTORIAL inspiration from the world of globe trotters to bring fashion-conscious gents the unlined blazer. A fresh, sophisticated garment enhanced by its wealth of details including white contrasting buttons, several beautifully constructed multi-purpose inside pockets designed with business travelers in mind and inside piping that echoes the white of the buttons. Transgenerational and timeless, this is the ideal garment for an increasingly global and mobile business population who want Italian style as a travel companion. www.boggi.com San Marco 1744 (Bacino Orseolo). T: 041 2960321. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-7.30pm Stazione Santa Lucia (Fondamenta S. Lucia 20). T: 041 5246445. Open daily 8am-9pm
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The prestigious stand-alone boutique of this brand which represents the ‘Art of Perfumery in Venice’ is housed in the former, mid-17th century apothecary of San Fantin, located just steps from La Fenice Opera House. Its neo-Gothic décor and ornamentation in walnut, wood and terracotta, reflect the typical style of ancient Venetian ‘palazzi’. The Merchant of Venice is not only a line of products but a wider project which includes a concept store in Murano, the Palazzo Mocenigo Museum in Santa Croce, the Spice shop in Ercole d’Oro (Cannaregio) and the World of Venice space at the Marco Polo Airport. www.themerchantofvenice.com. Open Tues-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. San Marco, 1895 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 2960559. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4
Venini An artistic space, where you rediscover all the elegance and sophistication of the exquisite creations handcrafted by Master glassmakers from Murano. A prime location for passionate collectors, or those whose want to further their knowledge about an entirely Italian art, Venetian glass creations, meticulously handcrafted by Master craftsmen. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.venini. com. San Marco, 314. T: 041 5224045. Other location: Fondamenta Vetrai, 47 (Murano). T: 041 2737204. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto or San Marco stops).
PASSION SHOPPING
ADVERTORIAL
OTTICA MANTOVANI Sun and prescription glasses, the most technologically advanced lenses and the most comfortable, fashionable frames. Managed by the Carlon family since the ‘40s, it is now run by the third generation of opticians: a reference point for locals requiring either prescription eyewear or sunglasses. In fact, one of the Mantovani’s most famous customers was Peggy Guggenheim. Map F4 www.xxxxxx.org Viale xxxxx, 6 www.otticamantovani.it T:San 02 xxxxx Marco, 4860 (Mercerie del Capitello). More www.wheremilan.com T: 041info: 5223427.
NICOLAO ATELIER An artisanal tailor’s shop that makes Venetian-style period costumes for movies, plays, commercials and Carnival parties. More than 10,000 sets of underwear, accessories, headgear and capes, all exhibited in elegant premises in the centre of Venice that comprise a workshop, a showroom and the entire costume collection. Map E2
www.nicolao.com Cannaregio, 2590 (Fondamenta della Misericordia). T: 041 5207051.
VINO E... VINI This must-visit wine ‘boutique’ is located just steps from piazza San Marco, the Arsenale and Campo Bandiera e Moro (San Zacaria stop). It carries a prestigious selection of major Italian wines as well as French, Spanish, Californian and even Lebanese vintages. Don’t miss the extensive assortment of dessert wines and exclusive grappas. Map F4
Castello, 3566 (Salizada del Pignater). T: 041 5210184.
ANTICHI SPLENDORI Devoted to the ongoing search for objet d’art and antiques, the mission of this highly qualified antique dealer is to keep the interest in authentic masterpieces alive. Its San Lio-based store in Venice offers a careful selection of the city’s artistic treasures, with a particular focus on antique jewelry, Murano glass from the 11th to 20th centuries and paintings of Venetian landscapes. Map F4 Castello, 5545 (Salizada S. Lio). T: 041 5239265. More info: www.where-venice.com w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 29
SHOPPING
Top antiques
Tessitura Bevilacqua
Venice is infused with so many historical and artistic artefacts that the city’s passion for antiques is literally embedded within its soul. There are so many large and small workshops that it is almost impossible to list them all. Where® has selected a pick, renowned for their quality and tradition. Alessandro Zoppi A true son of Venice, Alessandro Zoppi, one of the most passionate and authoritative collectors and art merchants in the city, spent his youth travelling extensively abroad. In 1961, he moved to London where he stayed for a few years. The owner, for more than a decade, of the highly prestigious Antichità Cesana, today, Zoppi’s house-museum features a number of pieces from his impressive collections, with a particular emphasis on artistic glass objet d’art dating from the 16th through 20th centuries. PASSION TIP Visiting his house-museum, or even talking to Alessandro Zoppi, is like taking a marvellous journey back in time. By appointment only. T: 335 6657005. email: winglets13@gmail.com. Antichi Splendori Devoted to the ongoing search for objet d’art and antiques, the mission of this highly qualified antique dealer is to keep the interest in authentic masterpieces alive. Its San Lio-based store in Venice offers a careful selection of the city’s artistic treasures, with a particular focus on antique jewelry, Murano glass from the 11th to 20th centuries and paintings of Venetian landscapes. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-7pm. Castello, 5545 (Salizada S. Lio) T: 041 5239265. info@antichisplendori.com. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
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Antichità San Samuele An antiques dealer since the Seventies, Silvana Vianello is renowned for her research and expertise in the field. PASSION TIP San Samuele specializes in religious antiques, with a particular focus on sculptures dating from the 13th through 18th centuries. Open: Mon-Sat 10am-12.30pm/3.30pm7.30pm. San Marco, 3130 (Calle delle Botteghe). T: 041 5204900. Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop). Map E4 Antichità Zanutto Continuing a longstanding family tradition, in the 1970s, Vincenzo Zanutto chose San Marco to open his workshop specializing in antique paintings, with a particular focus on Venetian artists. Also offers evaluations and certified appraisals. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-12.30pm/4.30pm-7.30pm. San Marco, 2013 (Calle delle Veste, near the Teatro La Fenice). T: 041 5235359. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio or San Marco stop). Map E5
Antichità San Samuele
Ca’ Nova Boasting over 40 years in the industry, Ca' Nova which means ‘new house’, has decorated several of Venice’s most elegant homes with its upholstery fabrics. Wallpaper, curtains, tablecloths and hand-woven sheets. Open Mon-Fri 9am12.30pm/3pm-7.30pm; Sat 9am-12.30pm. www. canovatessutitendaggi.com. San Marco, 4264/a (Campo San Luca). T: 041 5203834. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4 Franco Dell’Orto This well-known antique carpet gallery stocks a fabulous range of large Caucasian and Persian rugs, European tapestries and large-scale decorative pieces. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-12.30pm/3.30pm7.30pm; Sat 9.30am-12.30pm. www.francodellorto. com. San Marco, 2052/b (Calle delle Veste, near Teatro La Fenice). T: 041 5224736. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio or San Marco stop). Map E5
Alessandro Zoppi
SHOPPING
Le Zoie Michele Dal Bon’s atelier is infused with personality. PASSION TIP This eclectic shop showcase rare antique watches and jewelry but also specializes in collections that are unlikely to be found elsewhere, including objects inspired by ancient ‘theriaca’, a medical concoction also known as Venice treacle. Open Tues-Sat 9.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. www.lezoie. com. San Polo, 1566 (Calle dei Boteri) T: 041 2758694. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3 Libreria Antiquaria Linea d’Acqua Antique books and priceless prints focusing primarily on preservation and authentic bookbinding methods. PASSION TIP Specializes in 18th century illustrated books, maps and views of Venice and engravings by 18th century Venetian masters. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-12.30pm/3.30pm-7pm; Sat 10.30am12.30pm. www.lineadacqua.it. San Marco 3717/d (Calle della Mandola). T: 041 5224030. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4
Venezia, Le Stampe Turio
Studio Arga The owner of Studio Arga, Gabriella Tallon’s expertise in Oriental and Asian antiques makes this gallery a must-visit reference point. Open by appointment. www.argainc.com. San Marco 3659/a (Calle della Verona corner of Rio Terà dei Assassini). T: 041 2411124. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto or San Samuele stop) and line 2 (San Marco stop). Map E4
Venetia Studium
Tessitura Bevilacqua Artisanal weavers specializing in the production of exquisite, decorative fabrics for furnishings and curtains. PASSION TIP A unique place! Since 1875, the company has practiced the art of weaving on original looms that once belonged to the Venetian School of Silk. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am4pm (Sat-Sun by appointment). www.luigibevilacqua.com. Santa Croce 1320. T: 041 721566. Vaporetto line 1 (Riva de Biasio stop). Map D3 Venetia Studium The Lando family’s mission is to create and sell “modern object that speak an ancient language”. Venetia Studium not only stocks a wide range of Fortuny® lamps but also splendid silk pillows, fabrics, handbags and other accessories inspired by the ambiences loved by Marià Fortuny. Open daily 10am-7pm. www.venetiastudium.com San Marco, 2425. T: 041 5236953. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto or Santa Maria del Giglio stop). Map E5
Venezia, Le Stampe Turio At this small, refined showroom, Camilla Nicolai continues a family tradition established at the end of the 19th century by her great grandfather Osvaldo Böhm. Stocks a wide selection of frames, antiques and handcrafted Venetian objet d’art. PASSION TIP Specializes in antique decorative prints. Open 10.30am-1pm/3.30pm-7pm. www.venezialestampe.it. San Marco, 4606 (Calle Teatro Goldoni). T: 041 5234318. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4
Ca' Nova
Franco Dell'Orto
Antichità Zanutto w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 31
STROLLING THROUGH BURANO
BY STEFANO TRAINE
In addition to Murano and Torcello, this island on the Venetian Lagoon should not be missed. Loved (and widely photographed) by tourists, it is famous for its colourful houses, butter biscuits and above all, its handcrafted lace.
With a population of only three thousand inhabitants, the island’s row of houses, whose facades boast all the colours of the rainbow, are truly spectacular and make it one of the most picturesque places on earth! However, the origin of this tradition of painting the houses in bright colours was not only for aesthetic reasons. Legend has it that its fishermen, often confused by frequent banks of fog, devised a chromatic code that would help them identify their own landing piers more easily. Each colour corresponded to a family, to their house and to their address. BURANO LACE. The island is also the capital of handmade lace, a craft kept alive for centuries by the wives of fishermen waiting for their husbands to return from sea. The work is extremely exacting, with each woman specializing in a single stitch. Since there are seven stitches in total, each piece is passed from woman to woman to finish. Groups of women work diligently for days to produce items, whether large or small, of matchless beauty: trims for dresses, accessories, tablecloths, gloves, umbrellas and masks, all made from this delicate, white lace, crafted with a painstaking attention to detail that has lasted for centuries. While on the island, make sure to visit the Museum of Lace-Making to understand 32 W H E R E V E N I C E I M AY 2017
why something so exquisite should not become extinct (Piazza Galuppi, 187). GASTRONOMIC TRADITION. Butter biscuits known as Buranelli (either ring or S-shaped) are famous on the island and you will be offered them wherever you go. However, this is not the only specialty that you’ll find. The island has a long-standing gastronomic tradition linked, above all, to fresh fish.
HOW TO REACH BURANO Vaporetto line number 12 runs from the Venice-Fondamente Nove stop to Burano (1 hour). If you’re not in a hurry, the Venetians recommend taking line 14 from San Zaccaria (Pietà stop). Take a look at the venue where the Film Festival is held, and admire the MOSE flood barrier, the huge hydraulic engineering project designed to protect the lagoon.
ADVERTORIAL
MARTINA VIDAL The Vidal family has been making Burano lace for over four generations. Today, Martina Vidal is a luxury home linen atelier where passion, tradition, quality, and craftsmanship are combined to create unique, inimitable items made from only the finest quality fabrics.
www.martinavidal.com Via San Mauro, 309. T: 041 735523.
TRATTORIA DA ROMANO Run by the Barbaro family for four generations, this picturesque eatery has retained all of its timeless appeal. Recognized for more than fifty years as one of the few prestigious art restaurants in Venice, Romano manages the trattoria with the help of his wife, Siora Gigia. Standouts include ancient Burano specialties, and the chef’s signature mixed grill cooked over wood.
www.daromano.it Via Galuppi, 221. T: 041 730030.
LA PERLA GALLERY The Bon family in Burano offers an assortment of only the finest handmade items including antique lace, high quality made-to-order tablecloths, furnishing accessories, household linens, refined silk for lingerie and clothing, christening gowns and children’s clothing (up to age 10), exclusive scarves in silk and cashmere and Venetian masks.
Via Galuppi, 287-376. T: 041 730009 More info: www.where-venice.com w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 33
PHOTO © ANTONINA GERN
DINING
Welcome to Antico Martini Located in the heart of Venice just steps from the La Fenice Opera House, the Antico Martini restaurant is renowned for its authentic Venetian cuisine and romantic, elegant atmosphere. By Stefania Vida
S
hould you find yourself walking along this ‘campiello’, you will be attracted by the warm light enshrouding it. If, on the other hand, you’ve arrived from Calle XXII Marzo, its seemingly austere entrance will intrigue you. Soothing background music will invite you to enter and enjoy an unforgettable evening. This is the Antico Martini. Its history dates back to 1720 when it was founded as a coffee shop. This was period of great ferment, a time when the city was awash with music and theatres: for example, on 16 May 1792, the ‘La Fenice’ theatre was inaugurated in Campo San Fantin. Within the space of a short time, this coffee house became a meeting point for glitterati heading to the theatre, but also for artists and intellectuals. Everyone from Arturo Toscanini to Charlie 34 W H E R E V E N I C E I M AY 2017
Chaplin and Orson Welles, to mention a few, has come here for the refined ambience and superb seafood. The cuisine features a harmonious balance between fish (freshly caught) and meat (including classical Venice-style liver, but also Chateaubriand and other specialties) accompanied by seasonal vegetables. Its starters epitomize the delicacy of Venetian cuisine thanks to a perfect blend of flavours, colours and culinary creativity. Its impressive menu is accompanied by an outstanding wine list featuring more than 200 of the best Italian and foreign vintages. Open daily from 11.30am to 11.30pm. >> Campo Teatro Fenice, 2007 www.anticomartini.com
Charlie Chaplin with his family in 1962
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM
TASTING EXPERIENCE Enoteca Al Volto Excellent wine accompanied by traditional ‘cicchetti’ and Venetian fish specialties, Enoteca Al Volto invites diners into its warm, welcoming atmosphere. €. Open daily 11.30am-3pm and 6pm-10pm. San Marco, 4081 (Calle Cavalli). T: 041 5228945. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Zaccari stop). Map E4
L’Aciugheta Its fame and fortune stems from a soft, 7 cm long “paninello” (literally, “tiny sandwich”), stuffed with butter and two “aciughete” (skinless anchovies in oil). Other must-trys include its meatballs, croutons, stuffed chili peppers and freshly baked ‘pizzette’ topped with anchovies. €. Castello, 4357 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5224292. Vaporetto line 1, or 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Osteria alla Rivetta One of Venice best-known, most traditional “cicheteria” (but also a trattoria for lunch and dinner), it is a go-to address for wine tastings. Open daily 11am-10.30pm. €. Castello, 4625. T: 041 5287302. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN CUISINE
liver, ‘granseola’, polenta with shrimp, a mixed fish fry with artichokes and seafood risotto. The restaurant offers a gluten free menu especially designed for coeliacs. Closed on Thursday. €€€. www.algiardinetto.it. Castello, 4928 (Salizada Zorzi). T: 041 5285332. Vaporetto line 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4
Sissi. A favourite haunt of artists, its charm and Venetian flavour have remained unaltered since it first opened in 1894. Standouts include its raw fish dishes and stewed cod fish with polenta. €€€. www. anticacarbonera.it. San Marco (Calle Bembo). T: 041 5225479. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4
Al Mercà
A typical trattoria, in business for over a century, it has a friendly, convivial atmosphere. This is a go-to address for foodies and connoisseurs of fine dining. Its excellent menu, enhanced by the freshest, top quality ingredients is accompanied by an astute selection of wines. Closed on Sundays and Mondays. €€€. www.antichecarampane.com. San Polo, 1911. T: 041 5240165. Vaporetto line 1 (RialtoMercato stop). Map E3
Highly sought-after, typical Venetian cuisine. Boasting an informal atmosphere, it is the perfect spot to relax with a soothing cocktail after a long day of sightseeing. €€€. Lido - Via E. Dandolo, 17. T: 041 2431663. Vaporetto 1, 2, 5.1, 5.2 (Lido stop). Map E3
Alla Madonna Established in 1954 and set in one of Venice’s most picturesque corners, the Rado family has run Alla Madonna since its inception. Its welcoming ambience, characterized by an ancient vineyard, provides the perfect backdrop for the typical regional cuisine served here. €€€. www. ristoranteallamadonna.com. San Polo, 594 (Calle della Madonna). T: 041 5223824. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E4
Antica Carbonera Homemade pasta, fresh fish and unusual decor: its interiors resemble those of the Miramar yacht that belonged to Franz Joseph II and Princess
Antiche Carampane
Antico Martini Located next to the La Fenice theatre, with its elegant dining rooms, welcoming atmosphere and attentive staff, the Antico Martini serves some of the best seafood in town. €€€. www.anticomartini. com. Campo Teatro Fenice 2007. T: 041 5224121. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).Map E5
Antico Pignolo The hand of owner Eligio Paties, is apparent in its beautifully laid tables and impeccable service. The traditional Venetian menu is accompanied by a well-
A Beccafico Arte It offers several dining spaces and a small inner courtyard. Its typical Venetian ambience, is low-key, contemporary and elegant, blending to perfection with its Sicilian-style cuisine. €€€. Closed on Tuesdays. www.abeccaficoarte.com. Cannaregio, 2289/C. T: 041 2759220. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E5
A la Vecia Cavana Set within the picturesque environment of an old restructured cavàna (a typical sloped building used to house boats), this restaurant serves delicious traditional Venetian and Italian cuisine. €€€. www. marsillifamiglia.it. Cannaregio, 4624 (Rio Terà SS. Apostoli). T: 041 5287106. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map F3
Acqua Pazza Set against the magical backdrop of Campo Sant’Angelo, it offers a great ‘al fresco’ dining experience under the stars. This small corner of Amalfi in Venice serves an array of tantalizing dishes. €€€. www.veniceacquapazza.com. San Marco, 3808. T: 041 2770688. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).Map E4
Al Colombo A meeting point since 1986 for an international clientele, its menu maintains all the hallmark features of traditional Venetian cuisine. In summer, guests can dine outside under the romantic light of Venice’s street lamps. €€€. www.alcolombo.com. San Marco, 4619. T: 041 5222627. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3
Al Giardinetto da Severino Set against the magnificent backdrop of the 15th century Palazzo Zorzi, the restaurant is listed as an ‘historical establishment of Venice’ and its dining room still features a vaulted ceiling and a frescoed firedplace. Its menu offers the best of traditional Venetian cuisine: baccalà, Venetian-style
L’Alcova's magical atmosphere Diners can enjoy traditional Venetian cuisine at the L’Alcova Restaurant with its splendid view overlooking the Grand Canal. The menu is accompanied by an extensive wine list featuring vintages from various Italian regions. The young and talented chef Damiano Bassano combines traditional Italian flavours with unique touches. Its exquisite interiors look onto Venice’s scenic waterfront and the Rialto Market. This magical location has inspired the chef who sources fresh ingredients from land and sea, offering diners dishes that are infused with his talented creativity. The ‘L’Incontro’ Bar is an ideal place to sample aperitivi and pre-and post-prandial drinks. Don’t miss the ‘Rooftop terrace’, a perfect location for cocktails and signature drinks at aperitivo time. This exclusive bar offers a variety of drinks, including traditional Spritzes, Bellinis and fruit cocktails (sourced from the nearby Rialto Market), an innovative idea based on the chef’s philosophy of natural, healthy cuisine. L’Alcova Restaurant c/o Ca’ Sagredo. Cannaregio 4198/99 (Campo Santa Sofia). T: 041 2413111. www.casagredohotel.com
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DINING
“Five star” restaurants La Cupola
Tradition, innovation and creativity: Where® highlights some culinary destinations to whet your appetite in several top hotels in Venice. By Stefania Vida The restaurant welcomes guests for a romantic dinner or lunch overlooking the Grand Canal, where a welcoming ambience and authentic upscale cuisine make each culinary experience a truly special one. From April to October (weather permitting), guests can dine on its stunning panoramic terrace. Dining daytime (informal) 12pm-6pm. Dinner daily (formal) 7pm- 10pm. €€€. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio stop). Map E5
Acquerello c/o San Clemente Palace Kempinski Venice. Isola di San Clemente, 1. T: 041 4750111. www.kempinski.com. The gourmet cuisine of Acquerello restaurant enhances the flavours of Italian and Venetian tradition with creative and surprising combinations of Executive Chef Vincenzo Di Tuoro. PASSION TIP Its view is as breathtaking as its food: situated next to the XII-century church of San Clemente, the restaurant, boasting a large terrace, is located next to one of the island’s private landing stages and offers an incomparable view over the lagoon and St. Mark’s Square. Open for dinner: 6.30 pm-10.30 pm. €€€. Hotel’s complimentary boat from piazza San Marco. Off Map Aman Venice Restaurant c/o Hotel Aman Venice. Palazzo Papadopoli. San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo). T: 041 2707333. www.aman.com. The exclusive restaurant at the Hotel Aman Venice offers a delightfully unique menu, thanks to several specialties created by starred Milanese chef Davide Oldani, who infuses his culinary offerings with all the vibrancy of his ‘pop cuisine’. PASSION TIP Standouts, for those who haven’t yet tasted them, include his timeless ‘cipolla caramellata’ (‘caramelized onions’) and ‘Zafferano e riso’ (Saffron and rice’). €€€. Vaporetto line 1 (San Silvestro stop). Map E4 Antinoo’s c/o Centurion Palace Venezia. Dorsoduro, 173. T: 041 34281. www.sinahotels.com. Fronting the Grand Canal, Antinoo’s Lounge & Restaurant is the ideal place for a romantic dinner, boasting a decidedly designer-style décor and a
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soft, evocative colour scheme. In addition to the à la carte menu you can also choose from a selection of typical gourmet Venetian dishes, the perfect way to soak up the flavours and atmospheres of the lagoon city. €€€. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map E5 Aromi c/o Hilton Molino Stucky. Giudecca, 810. T: 041 2723311. www.molinostuckyhilton.it. Here you can taste authentic Mediterranean cuisine, offering a choice of pasta, meat and seafood dishes, created using only the freshest ingredients based on traditional recipes. Recognized by well-known international gastronomic association “Chaine des Rotisseurs”, Aromi is the ideal spot to celebrate a special occasion. Open on a seasonal basis, the Aromi restaurant offers guests a summer terrace with a fabulous view over Venice and the Giudecca Canal. €€€. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Palanca stop). Map C6 Canova c/o Baglioni Hotel Luna. San Marco, 1243. T: 041 5289840. www.baglionihotels.com. Winner of the Fogher d’Oro and Gambero Rosso awards, the Canova boasts an intimate, elegant atmosphere. Chef Daniele Zennaro offers menus and tastings featuring the best of traditional Venetian cuisine. All dishes are made using only the freshest, high-quality ingredients, rounded off by a wine list offering a wide selection of national and international labels. Open: lunch 12.30pm-2.30pm, dinner 7.30pm-10.30pm. €€€. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop) or 2 (San Marco-Giardinetti stop). Map F5 Club del Doge c/o The Gritti Palace (www.thegrittipalace.com). Campo Santa Maria del Giglio. T: 041 794611. www.clubdeldoge.com.
De Pisis c/o Hotel Bauer Palazzo. San Marco, 1413/d. T: 041 5207022. www.bauervenezia.com. For a romantic canal side dinner, set against the backdrop of the historic Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute. Those in search of a more intimate experience can opt to dine in its elegant dining room, furnished with classic period pieces, reminiscent of the ancient pomp and splendour of the Serenissima. €€€. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 Do Leoni c/o Hotel Londra Palace. Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni). T: 041 5200533. www.londrapalace.com. The Do Leoni restaurant, one of the temples of Venetian cuisine, pays homage to the symbols of Britain and of Venice. Chef Loris Indri combines the traditions of classic Venetian fare with more creative dishes, to titillate the palates of even the most discerning diners. The chef’s culinary art is further enhanced by its two atmospheric dining spaces: an indoor dining room whose decor includes artistic crystal and original paintings and its summer Veranda on the Riva degli Schiavoni. €€€. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4 Glam c/o Palazzo Venart Santa Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron). T: 041 5233784. www.palazzovenart.com Headed by twice-Michelin starred chef Enrico Bartolini and located in a historic palazzo on the Grand Canal (known for centuries as Palazzo Bacchini), the Glam Restaurant is open to both hotel guests and demanding gourmets visiting Venice. Offering an interpretation of contemporary Italian cuisine, Bartolini focuses on his experience and research-based use of locally-sourced Venetian ingredients, re-imagined with an innovative twist. €€€. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Stae stop). Map E3 Il Giardino Segreto c/o Boscolo Venezia. Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto, 3500 (Calle Larga Piave). T: 041 2208110. www.venezia.boscolohotels.com.
DINING
Venice meeting point for lovers of fine cuisine. In an elegant and intimate atmosphere, you can enjoy international specialties and delicacies of the Italian cuisine, created by highly skilled chefs and accompanied by a wide selection of wines and champagnes. You can also taste tantalizing aperitivi. In the springtime and summer the blooming garden offers you a unique view for your lunch or for your very romantic dinner. €€€. Vaporetto line 4.2 or 5.2 (Orto stop). Map E1 L’Alcova c/o Ca’ Sagredo Hotel. Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99. T: 041 2413111. www.casagredohotel.com. Boasting a magnificent panoramic terrace over the Grand Canal, L’Alcova is ‘the’ temple of traditional Venetian cuisine for real connoisseurs. PASSION TIP Its dining room faces directly over the Canal, in front of the historic Rialto Market, from which the restaurant sources the ingredients for its menus, accompanied by an astute selection of wines from various regions of Italy. Open: lunch 12pm2.30pm, dinner 7pm-10pm. €€€. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E3
Terrazza Danieli
Do Leoni
La Caravella c/o Hotel Saturnia Calle Larga XXII Marzo, 2399. T: 041 5208901. www.restaurantlacaravella.com Opened in 1963, the La Caravella restaurant completes the services offered by the Hotel Saturnia with a touch of culinary excellence thanks to its fabulous Venetian cuisine updated with a contemporary, gourmet twist. Its evocative, romantic ambience conjures up the colours and furnishings of an ancient Venetian vessel. PASSION TIP In summer, guests can dine ‘al fresco’ in its picturesque, internal Venetian courtyard. Open: lunch 12pm-3pm, dinner 7pm-11pm. €€€. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5 La Cupola c/o Hotel Carlton on the Grand Canal Santa Croce, 578. T: 041 2752200. www.carltongrandcanal.com. A jewel in style both the venue and the atmosphere. The menus are inspired by the traditions of Venetian, Italian and international cuisine with genuine ingredients but with an innovative and original
touch. An ideal place for your celebrations or for a simple romantic evening in Venice. Vaporetto line 1 (Riva de Biasio stop). Map C3 La Cusina c/o The Westin Europa & Regina (www.starwoodhotels.com). San Marco 2159. T: 041 2400001. www.lacusina.it. For a regenerating lunch break between visiting one sight or another or for a romantic dinner, La Cusina is the ideal place to enjoy a combination of taste and relaxation. Choose a table overlooking the Grand Canal to enjoy a panoramic view of the city’s historic architecture, while savouring the restaurant’s seasonal dishes which enhance the rich local flavours of Venice and the islands of the lagoon. Open: lunch 12pm-2.30pm, dinner 7.30pm-10pm. €€€. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5 Le Maschere c/o Starhotels Splendid Venice. San Marco Mercerie, 760. T : 041 5200755. www.starhotels.com. Loved and patronized by Venetian locals, the Le Maschere restaurant is set against the backdrop of a luminous ‘Campiello’, a typical Venetian courtyard. Here you can sample authentic Venetian cuisine, featuring both meat and fish-based dishes. A truly gourmet experience, guaranteed by its partnership with Eataly, makes Le Maschere one of the most unique and original restaurants in Venice. Open: lunch 12pm-2pm, dinner 7pm-10pm. €€€. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4 Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801. www.belmond.com. Experience Venice’s top taste sensation at this enchanting Michelin-starred restaurant. Oro reflects the romantic spirit of Venice: take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant takes its name, and try the specialties inspired by Italian tradition. Open: lunch 12.30pm-2.30pm, dinner 7.30pm-10pm. €€€. Vaporetto line 4.1 (Zitelle stop). Map F6 Terrazza Danieli c/o Hotel Danieli (www.danielihotelvenice.com). Riva degli Schiavoni, 4196. T: 041 5226480. www.terrazzadanieli.com. A trip to discover traditional flavours. Executive Chef Dario Parascandolo will treat you to an exclusive gourmet experience, with a menu featuring exquisite, locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. PASSION TIP Don’t miss the breathtaking view over the lagoon. Open: lunch 12pm-3pm, dinner 7pm-10.30pm. €€€. Vaporetto line 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
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DINING
Michelin-starred restaurants
Quadri
Are you in search of a real Venetian tasting experience? Where® brings you a round-up of Michelin-starred restaurants for true connoisseurs of taste! By Stefania Vida Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco T: 041 8521300 www.jwvenice.com Aptly named ‘Dopolavoro’, which means after work. The renowned name of Giancarlo Perbellini is behind this new restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private island - the Isola delle Rose, right out in the Venetian lagoon. After a day of business meetings or exploring Venice, enjoy delicious gourmet recipes with an individual flavour and skilful light touch - the true mark of a great chef. Off Map Il Ridotto Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo, 4509 T: 041 5208280 www.ilridotto.com Located just steps from San Marco, Il Ridotto,
38 W H E R E V E N I C E I M AY 2017
'reduced' in Italian, refers to the size of this tiny, gracious restaurant. The innovative menu employing traditional elements is revised daily, with the offerings tending toward lighter, but wonderfully tasty versions of classic dishes. A particular characteristic? It only has 9 tables. Map F4 Met Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149 T: 041 5240034 www.hotelmetropole.com Located inside the Metropole hotel, the Met Restaurant is a pioneer of a new concept targeted at promoting the Italian region. Its menu features recipes based on traditional Italian gastronomy served in two versions: either classical or upgraded with a creative twist, served in unusual but never excessive combinations. Its carefully prepared dishes are full of flavour and presented in a bright, colourful way. Map G4
Il Ridotto
DINING
Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani Giudecca, 10 T: 041 240801 www.belmond.com A jewel in the crown of Belmond Hotel Cipriani, experience Venice’s top taste sensation at this enchanting Michelin-starred restaurant. Oro reflects the romantic spirit of Venice: take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant draws its name, and try the specialities inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6 Osteria da Fiore San Polo, 2202 T: 041 721308 www.dafiore.net An Osteria only by name because this is actually an elegant, starred restaurant. Its cuisine ranges from the most authentic traditional flavours interpreted in a modern-day key (meaning that offerings tend to be lighter) to more unusual dishes invented by the chef, intended to be as close to nature as possible thanks to a great selection of highly sought-after seasonal ingredients. Ask for a wine recommendation from its excellent wine list which also features several international labels. Map E3
Quadri Piazza San Marco, 121 T: 041 5222105 www.alajmo.it A real institution of Venetian taste, starting from its decor. A triumph of stucco, Murano glass and precious fabrics housed in one of the most photographed ‘palazzi’ in the city. Its menu features intriguing, creative dishes that are beautifully presented... without forgetting its spectacular view over piazza San Marco. Map F4
Venissa Fondamenta S. Caterina, 3 (Mazzorbo) T: 041 5272281 www.venissa.it On the one hand its vegetable gardens and vineyards, and, on the other, its cuisine featuring an intoxicating meld of locally sourced ingredients. Its bucolic surroundings serve as the ideal backdrop to its authentic, typically Venetian cuisine lovingly prepared by its four chefs who only use fresh, seasonal ingredients. Off Map
Osteria da Fiore
Met
Dopolavoro
Oro
Venissa
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DINING
Top coffee and pastry shops Whether you’re in search of a cup of coffee, a snack or an aperitivo, Venice offers an incredible variety of bars and pastry shops, where you can stop after a long day’s sightseeing. Where® offers you a pick of the best places to take a relaxing break, from the most modern venues to more historic locations boasting a retro atmosphere for a real trip back in time By Stefania Vida www.lavena.it. Piazza San Marco, 133/134. T: 041 5224070. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).
Caffè Florian
Caffè Florian - One of Venice’s most famous cafés with its glittering neo-Baroque décor and attractive 19th century wall panels, Caffè Florian is located in the heart of St. Mark’s Square. The oldest café in Italy, Florian is steeped in history. Opened on 29 December 1720 by Floriano Francesconi, under the name of ‘Alla Venezia Trionfante’, it was simply re-christened Florian by its regulars, who included celebrities such as Casanova, Goldoni, Canaletto and Guardi. www.caffeflorian.com. Piazza San Marco, 57. T: 041 5205641. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Caffè Lavena - Since 1750, Caffè Lavena, situated in a corner at the foot of the Clock Tower in front of the Basilica, has been one of the most renowned coffee shops in Venice. Known by the Venetians of those days as the ‘Caffè dei Foresti’ (The Foreigners’ cafè), it was mainly frequented by an international clientele.
stocked cellar boasting more than 900 labels from all over the world. €€€. www.anticopignolo.com. San Marco, 451 (Calle degli Specchieri). T: 041 5228123. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Conca d’Oro Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, the Conca d’Oro was established by Sicilian brothers Giuseppe and Giovanni Costa, the founders of the first pizzeria in Northern Italy. Since that time, this Venetian institution has been turning out some of the best pizza in town. €€€. www. concadorovenice.com. San Marco, 4338 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5229293. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Da Fiore A renowned Venetian restaurant that offers topnotch cuisine in a sophisticated, elegant setting. Thirty-five years ago, Mara and Maurizio Martin 40 W H E R E V E N I C E I M AY 2017
Dal Mas Located just a few minutes from the railway station, this pastry shop offers a triumph of traditional sweet treats for breakfast (in addition to croissants, try their ‘zaleti’, ‘pan dei Dogi’ and ‘sbreghettine’). Those with a sweet tooth will be delighted to know that Dal Mas is also a chocolate shop where you can find single servings of mousse, mini Sacher torte, ‘cannoli’ and brightlycoloured macarons. www.cioccolateriadalmas. com. Cannaregio, 149/a (Rio Terà Lista de Spagna), a few metres from the St. Lucia Station. T: 041 715101. Gran Caffè Quadri - Nestling in St. Mark’s Square, with its ornate stucco mouldings, 18th-century murals, huge mirrors and polished wooden furniture, Quadri is every inch the historical café. People, including habitués like Stendhal, Wagner, Proust and Woody Allen, have been drinking at this historic venue since 1638. www.alajmo.it. Piazza San Marco, 121. T: 041 5222105. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Harry’s Bar - Founded in the 1930s, this legendary bar is renowned for its Bellini cocktails and for being the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of almost every famous name to visit Venice. Today, it is still a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice, a perfect opportunity to step back in time and savour its slightly retro and incredibly fascinating atmosphere. An ideal venue at any time of day, either for lunch or dinner, but also for a truly trademark aperitivo! www.harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco,
transformed an old osteria into one of the city’s most famous restaurants. Impeccable service and superlative Venetian dishes composed of carefully selected seasonal ingredients have made Da Fiore a must-visit destination. Closed on Mondays. €€€. www.dafiore.net. San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3
Da Mario alla Fava Lying in the heart of Venice, near to the Church of Santa Maria alla Fava, from which it takes its name, this small restaurant offers a calm, relaxing atmosphere far removed from the crowds of tourists that flock to the area each year. Opened in 1960, Mario Bonavita wanted to rediscover the true Venetian style of cooking which he does with panache. €€€. www.ristorantemarioallafava.it. Calle Galiazzo, 5265 - Calle dei Stagneri, 5242. T: 041 5285147. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
1323 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Vallaresso stop). Harry’s Dolci - Harry's Dolci, a bar and restaurant, offers a peaceful view of the Canal with outdoor tables facing the Giudecca Canal. The people at the famed Harry's Dolci have established their latest enclave on this rarely visited island, far from the madding crowds of Piazza San Marco. From the quayside windows of this chic place, you can watch seagoing vessels, from yachts to lagoon barges. cipriani.com. Fondamenta S. Biagio, 773 (Giudecca). T: 041 5224844. Vaporetto linea 4.1 (Palanca stop). Pasticceria Italo Didovich - Should you find yourself in the vicinity of Campo Santa Marina (just a little off the beaten tourist track), make a beeline for this excellent pastry shop, which has stood here for the past 40 years. In addition to ‘frolle’ and rice and almond pastries, it also offers several tantalizing delicacies Castello. Campo Santa Marina. T: 041 5230017. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Pasticceria Rosa Salva - This institution has three separate shops in Venice. The first is in San MarcoCalle Fiubera: its historic headquarters, permeated by the aromas of its nearby pastry kitchen. The next is in San Marco-Mercerie: aperitivi and quick snacks that can be enjoyed in between browsing the shops lining le Mercerie, the shopping street that connects the Rialto to St. Mark’s Square. The last is in Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo. www.rosasalva.it. San Marco (Calle Fiubera), T: 041 5210544. San Marco (Mercerie), T: 041 5227934. Castello (Campo San Giovanni e Paolo), T: 041 5227949. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Rizzardini - Since 1742, the traditional sweet treats sold at this pastry shop have tempted the palates of Venetian locals and visitors alike, thanks to the high quality of its products, its atmosphere and eye-catching window displays. Must-try’s include its biscuits and, at Carnival, its utterly delectable ‘fritole’ , small fried doughnuts. San Polo, 1415. T: 041 5223835. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato or San Silvestro stop).
Gran Canal Here you can taste the typical specialties of Venetian tradition, featuring the purest expression of taste and harmony. The restaurant’s main focus is on seafood and vegetables. Don’t miss a dinner on its evocative terrace: the restaurant faces directly onto the Grand Canal offering diners an excellent opportunity to combine the pleasures of the palate with a stunning view over Venice’s lagoon. Open: lunch 12.30pm-2.30pm, dinner 7.30pm-11.30pm €€€. www. hotelmonaco.it. c/o Hotel Monaco&Gran Canal. San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Map F5
Harry’s Bar Founded in the 1930s, this legendary bar is renowned for its Bellini cocktails (originally invented here) and for being the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of almost every famous name to visit Venice. Today, It is still a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice, a
DINING
Kosher in Venice If you are already familiar with Jewish dietary laws, or want to try a new ‘kosher’ gastronomic experience, here are some great addresses that will not disappoint! By Stefania Vida
perfect opportunity to step back in time and savour its slightly retro and incredibly fascinating atmosphere. www.harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco, 1323 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto 1 (Rialto stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5
spot for a romantic dinner where you can enjoy all the typical flavours of the Venetian lagoon. €€€. www.ristorantelineadombra.com. Dorsoduro, 19. T: 041 2411881. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Zattere stop) or 1 (Salute stop). Map E5
Il Nuovo Galeon
Locanda Cipriani
Located on via Garibaldi, near the Giardini della Biennale and just behind the Arsenal, this restaurant is mainly frequented by Venetians. A typical, familyrun restaurant with an outdoor terrace (summer), its attractive interior is characterized by typical nautical décor, including the hull of a ‘bragozzo’, a typical fishing boat built by Crea, the famous Venetian rowing champion. €€€. www.ilnuovogaleon.com. Castello, 1308, T: 041 5204656. Vaporetto 5.1 or 5.2 (Giardini stop). Map H5
La Piscina Take a seat at its welcoming indoor dining room, or on the magnificent panoramic terrace overlooking the Giudecca Canal. At La Piscina you can savour traditional Venetian and Mediterranean dishes paired with wines selected from amongst the best Italian labels. Vegetarian meals are also served. €€€. www.lacalcina.com. c/o Hotel La Calcina. Dorsoduro, 780 (Zattere). T: 041 5206466. Vaporetto line 2 or 5.1 (Zattere stop). Map E6
La Porta d’Acqua
KOSHER RESTAURANT GHIMEL GARDEN The restaurant offers kosher specialties and typical fish-based dishes. The menu is accompanied by a great selection of strictly kosher wines. Halav. Lemehadrin. Open daily from 9.30am to 11pm. Serves Shabbat dinners on Friday evenings and at lunch on Saturdays strictly subject to reservation. ghimelgarden.com. Cannaregio, 2873/c (Campo del Ghetto Nuovo). T: 041 8226131.
Set just steps from the Rialto Bridge, the restaurant is housed in a 15th century building and decorated with original frescoes dating back to 1700. Its cuisine conjures up the aroma of authentic Neapolitan cuisine, thanks to ingredients sourced exclusively from Campani. €€€. www.laportadacqua.it. San Polo, 1022/b (Rio Terà San Silvestro). T: 041 2412124. Vaporetto 1 (San Silvestro stop). Map E4
Lineadombra Perched on the last bridge of the most beautiful promenade in Venice, le Zattere, this is the perfect
For those who want to be close to Venice, yet feel worlds away, the Locanda Cipriani is a superb, romantic hideaway. Featuring a simple yet evocative atmosphere, it is popular among knowledgeable gourmets as a fantastic restaurant. A farmhouse from the exterior, it has been renovated with great charm, exuding an understated elegance with beautiful country antiques and fresh flowers. €€€. www. locandacipriani.com. Piazza Santa Fosca 29 (Torcello island). T: 041 730150. Vaporetto line 12 from Fondamente Nove direction Burano, then take the 9 line). Off Map
Taverna al Remer Located near to the Rialto Bridge, this romantic ‘taverna’ is distinguished by its open-brick decor, which lends it an intimate, informal touch. Although the menu features simple, traditional dishes, it often surprises diners with unusual pairings. Closed on Wednesdays. €€€. www. alremer.it. Cannaregio, 5701. T. 041 5228789. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop).
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Wildner Opened by the Fullin family in 1960, it is patronized by locals and tourists alike. Its tranquil, relaxed atmosphere is further enhanced by a spectacular view over the Basin of St. Mark’s. Its menu is mainly fish-based and serves classic Venetian specialties including ‘Baccalà Mantecato’ and ‘Sarde in Saor’. Closed on Tuesdays. €€€. c/o Pensione Wildner. Castello, 4161. T: 041 5227463. Vaporetto line 4.1 or 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4
KOSHER HOUSE GIARDINO DEI MELOGRANI Located just a 10-minute walk from the Santa Lucia Railway Station, this is the only kosher residence in Venice. Nestling in the heart of Venice’s Ghetto, it is equipped with all the necessary accoutrements for the strict observance of Kasheruth and Halacha. www.pardesrimonim.net. Cannaregio, 2873. T: 041 8226131. CAFFETTERIA DEL MUSEO EBRAICO DI VENEZIA Indulge in flavoursome break at the cafè of Venice’s famous Jewish Museum. Situated in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo, the venue is set between two of Venice’s oldest synagogues. Halav. Cannaregio, 2902 (Campo del Ghetto Nuovo). T: 340 1046858.
SUSHI MIRAI In the attractive setting of this top Japanese restaurant, along the Grand Canal since 2013, a creative sushi experience is combined with a rich variety of cocktails and a prestigious selection of teas. www.miraivenice.com
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SWEET TREATS… BUT NOT TOO MANY ONI Venetian biscuits come in all shapes and sizes and are made with a variety of different flours. The most common Arsenale Storico Navale di Venezia include dry baicoli, zaeti,Museo cookies made from cornflour, with raisins and lemon R PE GA peel, bussolai (prepared by the wives of IUSEP VIA G fishermen to sustain their husbands while at sea), pinsa, a simple biscuit made from stale bread, raisins, cocoa powder and RI VA DE I S candied fruit, and fugassa venessiana, ET TE M leavened dough sprinkled with grains of AR TI RI sugar: Venice’s traditional sweet treats have the irresistible aroma of simple, homemade biscuits prepared with only the most basic ingredients. A perfect end to a delicious meal, they can also be enjoyed as a midmorning snack. They can be accompanied by either a strong cup of coffee, or a rich, mouth watering zabaione.
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ADVERTORIAL
TRATTORIA DA REMIGIO Owned by Fabio Bianchi, Da Remigio is located in sestiere Castello, just behind St. Mark’s square. This historical venue is a favourite with Venetian foodies, but is also mentioned in international guides. It offers diners a classical menu of seasonal seafood dishes accompanied by a well-stocked wine list. The venue’s friendly, attentive service makes for an even more enjoyable dining experience.
Castello, 3416 (Salizada dei Greci). T: 041 52300089
LA TERRAZZA Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, Restaurant La Terrazza is set against an evocative backdrop with a view over the picturesque Bacino Orseolo gondola station (‘stazio’). Its culinary offer includes traditional Venetian and Italian cuisine. In the evening, La Terrazza offers its guests the unforgettable atmosphere of a traditional restaurant in Venice for a candle-lit dinner, in the romantic heart of the city. www.laterrazzavenezia.com c/o Hotel Bonvecchiati. San Marco 4488 (Calle Goldoni). T: 041 5285017
TRATTORIA DO FORNI Its owner Eligio Paties considers cooking “a culture, rather than a vocation”. He has managed to make his restaurant a sought-after destination, distinguished by its wide assortment of Venetian fare, thanks to the quality of the dishes and a genuine sense of typically Venetian hospitality. The dining spaces will remind you of the carriages of the legendary “Orient Express” and pay tribute to the history of Venice. www.doforni.it San Marco, 468 (Calle dei Specchieri). T: 041 5232148.
ANTICO PIGNOLO The “Antico Pignolo” Restaurant opened in 1930. Its site, however, actually dates back to 1200 when it was used as a blacksmith’s forge which looked after the Doge’s horses. Boasting an elegant ambience and impeccable service, this ‘iconic Venetian tavern’ is owned and run by Eligio Paties with particular attention to typical Venetian and international cuisine. Highlights include tantalizing meat and fish specialties and www.xxxxxx.org a well-stocked wine cellar. Viale xxxxx, 6 T:www.anticopignolo.com. 02 xxxxx San Marco, 451 More www.wheremilan.com (Calleinfo: dei Specchieri). T: 041 5228123. More info: www.where-venice.com w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 43
SIGHTSEEING |
MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS
Scuola di San Rocco
The "Scuole Grandi" art treasures Among Venice’s landmarks, buildings known as ‘Scuole’ or ‘Scuole Grandi’ might be mentioned as unmissable attractions. By By Elena Peverata
I
t goes without saying that the “Scuole Grandi” are not schools in the accepted sense of the word, but one of the innumerable distinctive features of this unique city. During the ancient Republic of Venice, from the 13th century onwards, the word ‘Scuola’ was, in fact, used to describe an association of lay members who met to provide assistance to poor people, widows, orphans, old and sick people. The “Scuole” were divided into Devotional Schools (or “Scuole Grandi”) which gathered for religious purposes in the name of a patron saint, Schools of Arts and Crafts and Schools of Foreign Communities (“Scuole Piccole” or “Scuolette”). Until the fall of the Republic, they represented a real kind of welfare system. 44 W H E R E V E N I C E I M AY 2017
The “Scuole Grandi” had countless means at their disposal, a part of which they invested to embellish their own headquarters with paintings by well-known artists including Tintoretto, Jacopo Palma il Giovane or Giambattista Tiepolo. As time passed, the most important Schools built palaces designed by famous architects, and adorned them with paintings by the best artists of the era. After the fall of the Republic of Venice in 1797, the Schools were suppressed by a Napoleonic edict (1807) and within the space of a short time their assets ended up at antique markets and collections throughout the world. Then, several of the best preserved Schools were transformed into museums that can now be visited by the public. These include the Great
Schools of San Giovanni Evangelista (www. scuolasangiovanni.it), the Scuola di San Rocco (www.scuolagrandesanrocco.it) and the Scuola dei Carmini (www.scuolagrandecarmini.it). Others, including San Teodoro (www. scuolagrandesanteodoro.it), the Scuola di San Marco (the seat of the city’s hospital, www. scuolagrandesanmarco.it), and the Scuola di Santa Maria Giustizia or San Fantin, currently home to Venice’s Faculty of Science, Literature and Arts (www.ateneoveneto.org), were converted into public exhibition spaces and institutions. The Scuola Dalmata di San Giorgio degli Schiavoni and the Scuola di San Nicolò dei Greci (currently Venice’s Museum of Icons), are ‘small’ schools whose artistic treasures are well worth a visit.
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM
ATTRACTIONS & MONUMENTS Basilica del Redentore
and boat cruises visit www.canalgrande.it, or ask your concierge.
Chiesa della Madonna dell’Orto
Based on a project by the famous architect Andrea Palladio, the Basilica was built in 1577 on the island of Giudecca. It contains works by Tintoretto, Veronese and other important Venetian artists. It was built to celebrate the deliverance from the Black Death, which killed one third of the population. To commemorate the end of the plague, a solemn festival is still held at the church on the third Sunday of July. www.chorusvenezia.org. Campo Redentore (Giudecca). T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 41 and 2 (Redentore stop). Map E6
This is one of the largest churches in Venice, and, according to popular belief, is named after a statue of the Virgin Mary which supposedly had miraculous powers. It contains a significant number of artworks, mostly by Tintoretto and Bellini, but also by Titian and Palma the Younger. The complex also houses the smaller church of San Marziale, dating back to before the year 1000. This church can only be visited by booking. Open Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 12pm-5pm. www. madonnadellorto.org. Cannaregio, 3512. T: 041 719933. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1, 5.2, A (Orto stop). Map E2
Basilica di San Marco
Chiesa and Scuola Grande di San Rocco
This is the most important Catholic church in the city, and one of the most important monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. The famous winged lion, a symbol of the city and of the ancient ‘Venetian Republic’ is depicted on its pediment. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. You might have to queue for a time to get inside, but your wait will be well worthwhile. Although admission is free, you will have to pay to see several specific sights. In order not to miss your visit, be sure to inform yourself about the opening hours, as they are often subject to change. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-4pm; Sun (and Public Holidays) 2pm-4pm. www.basilicasanmarco.it. San Marco, 328. T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4
Campanile di San Marco (Bell Tower) This 98.6 metre bell tower is affectionately known to the Venetians as ‘el paron de casa’ (the master of the house) because it dominates the city, observing everything that lies below it. Resting lightly on the exquisite Loggetta del Sansovino, it has a particularly recognizable shape and a rich history. The original medieval bell tower was modified several times, and rebuilt entirely when it unexpectedly collapsed in 1902. It is worth going up to the tower, to enjoy a breathtaking view over the city. Although admission is not free, it is often included in joint tickets. Opening times are subject to change. T: 041 5225205. Vaporetto lines 1,2 (San Marco stop). Map F4
Canal Grande (Grand Canal) Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the main waterway of Venice and much more. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels, and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. For centuries, the Canal has witnessed lavish parties and workshop events, religious processions, capital executions, historical regattas and epidemics. Those visiting Venice should dedicate a few hours to a cruise on the Canal, not only for the pleasure of this experience, but because it offers several of the best panoramic views of Venetian palaces. It is is almost impossible to list all of them, but for more information you can visit the www. canalgrandevenezia.it website. For excursions
A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures, including an impressive number of works by Tintoretto as well those by Tiepolo and Giorgione. Opening hours subject to change www.scuolagrandesanrocco.org. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4
Ghetto di Venezia Although documentation chronicles the presence of a Jewish community in Venice from before the year 1000, it was only during the 6th century, due to political unrest in Europe and a significant increase in non-Christian immigrants that, for the first time, the Venetian Senate, issued a decree stating that the Jewish population should move to a specific part of the city, where they could be better ‘controlled’. Thus Jews were forced to move to this, then, remote northwestern corner of Venice, to an abandoned site of a 14thcentury foundry (‘ghetto’ is old Venetian dialect for "foundry," a word that would soon be used throughout Europe and the world to depict an area where isolated minority groups lived. The Venetian Ghetto nevertheless became a thriving, vibrant district. In 1797, when Napoleon rolled into town, the ghetto was disbanded as an institution, and Jews were free to move elsewhere. Today it is still the center of Venice's ever-diminishing community of Jewish families. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1 (Ponte Guglie stop). Map D2
Palazzo Ca’ Vendramin Calergi (Casinò di Venezia) Overlooking the Grand Canal, this building houses the oldest casino in the world. An ageold destination, for aristocratic travelers from both East and West, Venice was the first city in the world to open a gaming house way back in 1683. Today its old-world ambience continues to play host to several of the world’s most classical games. The casino is open to everyone aged 18 and over and proper attire is required. www.casinovenezia.it. Cannaregio, 2040 (Calle Colombina). Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marcuola stop). Map E3
Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square) Known throughout the world, this square is the heart of Venice and its most symbolic landmark. It consists of a central, trapezoid-shaped unit integrated with other areas. Measuring 170 metres in length, it faces directly onto the water
and is surrounded by several magnificent stately buildings. Its incalculable scenic beauty makes it one of the most widely-photographed places in the world. The best thing to do here is to look around and exult, but don’t forget that the square has a number of specific landmark sites, whose interiors can also be visited: the Basilica of San Marco (see listing), the Bell Tower (see listing), Palazzo Ducale (see Museums listings), the Clock Tower (see listing) and some 18th century cafés, the Florian and the Quadri, to mention the bestknown... Vaporetto lines, 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4
Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs) The Bridge of Sighs is a Baroque bridge that, by crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from which its name derives are not those of lovers, but those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. Open daily 8.30am7pm. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 31024 (piazza San Marco). T:041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1,2, (San Marco stop). Map F4
Ponte di Rialto (Rialto Bridge) This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Witness to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it (shutterbugs permitting), but even more spectacular when seen from the water, perhaps aboard a gondola. Originally built during medieval times as a pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto Market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. Unfortunately, it is not accessible to
VENICE BIENNALE
FOCUS ON PAGE 10
For more than a century, the Venice Biennale has been one of the most prestigious cultural institutions in the world. Renowned for its avant-garde approach to research and the promotion of new artistic trends, it organizes important international exhibitions related to art and architecture (it is held bi-annually in odd-numbered years) at its Giardini and Arsenale sites, and is considered the world’s number one platform for its International Exhibition of Cinematographic Art (annual), its Music and Theatre Festival and its more recent Dance Festival. In addition to its traditional appointments, it has added new, permanent activities over time. Costs, venues and opening hours vary according to the activity underway. Voucher Venezia Unica holders are eligible for discounts. Main sites: Ca’ Giustinian, San Marco 1364/a; Arsenale, Calle della Tana, 2169/S; Giardini della Biennale, Castello (between Riva degli Schiavoni and Sant’Elena). www.labiennale.org
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MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS
everyone; between upward and downward slopes, it includes as many as 120 steps. San Polo, 30125 (access from Ruga dei Oresi or from Salizada Pio X). Vaporetto linea 1,2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
San Giorgio Maggiore Boasting a monastery and an adjoining museum (see Museum listings), the church of San Giorgio Maggiore sits on the little island of San Giorgio Maggiore across from St. Mark's square. One of the masterpieces of Andrea Palladio, the church, and the entire complex, which holds a number of marvelous surprises including a maze, is worth visiting. This small island, that is a part of the panorama that can be enjoyed from St. Mark's square, is separated from the Giudecca by the lagoon island of La Grazia. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 5227827. Vaporetto line 2 (San Giorgio stop). Map G5
Santa Maria della Salute (Church of the Virgin Mary of Good Health) Generally referred to as “La Salute,” this crown jewel of 17th-century baroque architecture proudly stands at a commercially and aesthetically important point, almost directly opposite the Piazza San Marco, where the Grand Canal empties into the lagoon. Designed by Longhena, whose work was influenced by Palladio, it was constructed to honor the Virgin Mary for delivering Venice from the plague of 1630. On 21 November each year, a popular religious celebration, marking the official end of the Black Death, is held here. The church is also famous for its organ concerts. Open daily 9am-12noon/3pm5.30pm. www.basilicasalutevenezia.it. Fondamenta Salute, 30123. T: 041 2743911. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map E5
Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari Known by the Venetians simply as ‘i Frari’, this landmark features 17 monumental altars and is the largest church in the city. This medieval church in Gothic-Venetian style, houses, in addition to
two paintings by Titian, the tombs and funerary monuments of numerous famous people, including Titian, Monteverdi and Canova. chorusvenezia.org. Campo dei Frari. T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 1, 2, N (San Tomà stop). Map D4
daily 11am-5pm. www.scuolagrandecarmini.it. Dorsoduro, 2616 (Campo dei Carmini, Campo Santa Margherita). T: 041 5289420. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). Map C5
Santi Giovanni e Paolo
Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only strongly associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it is also a stunning feat of architecture. teatrolafenice. it. Ticket office T: 041 2424. San Marco, 1965 (Campo San Fantin). Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E4
One of the city’s most important examples of medieval architecture, Santi Giovanni e Paolo is considered the Pantheon of Venice because all the Venetian doges, starting from the 13th century, are buried here, together with numerous other notable personages. www.basilicasantigiovanniepaolo.it. Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo (Please note: this site might be marked in Venetian dialect as ‘san ZaniPolo’ on the city’s maps). T: 041 5235913. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Fondamente Nove stop, Ospedale Civile stop). Map F3
Scala Contarini del Bovolo Palazzo Contarini is an exquisite, late Gothic building. However, what makes it such a popular attraction today, was the addition, by its architects, in 1499, of an amazing, external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. Open Tues-Sun: 10am-1.30pm/2pm6pm. www.scalacontarinidelbovolo.com. c/o Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo. San Marco, 4299 (Campo Manin, Rio San Luca). T: 041 3096605. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map E4
Scuola Grande dei Carmini Housed in a 16th century palazzo, it is the seat of an ancient brotherhood and all its original furnishing and a number of priceless oil paintings have been preserved intact. The drama builds when entering the Sala del Capitolo, whose ceiling features nine exceptional canvases painted by the brotherhood’s most famous member, Giambattista Tiepolo. Open
Teatro La Fenice
The islands Although the whole of Venice lies on an archipelago, an ‘excursion to the islands’ generally means a half-day cruise on a boat to visit the islands of Murano, Torcello and Burano, three charming, small islands, rich in history and tradition. Murano is famous throughout the world for its hand-blown glass (artisanal workshops still display glassmakers at work). Torcello, birthplace of the lagoon, once a thriving town with 8,000 inhabitants, is today a semirural island with only 17 permanent residents and two medieval churches that speak poignantly of past glories, and Burano, one of the most photographed sights in the world, thanks to colourful houses reflected in its canals. Burano is also famous for its artisanal lace work and a particular kind of biscuit, which also resembles lace. Find out more and buy tickets for your trip to these magical destinations. Visitors love these islands, and there may be a risk of not finding a seat on the boat. See Map page 62.
MUSEUMS & EXHIBITION SITES Ca’ Pesaro-International Gallery of Modern Art Hosts important 19th and 20th century collections of paintings and sculptures, including masterpieces by Klimt and Chagall as well as noteworthy oeuvres by the likes of Kandinsky, Klee, Matisse and Moore. Other highlights include a rich selection of works by Italian artists and an important selection of graphics. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10. www. capesaro.visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 2076. Vaporetto line 2 (San Stae stop). Map E3
PHOTO © ANTON NOSSIK
Ca’ Rezzonico-Museum of Eighteenth Century Venetian Art
SAN LAZZARO DEGLI ARMENI Located just a 20-minute vaporetto ride from St. Mark’s Square (San Zaccaria stop, line 20), this tiny island, an oasis of peace, hosts the monastery of the Armenian Mekhitarist Fathers. The convent houses a collection of esoteric treasures from the Far East and one of the most important libraries in the western world, including 4,500 rare manuscripts.
46 W H E R E V E N I C E I M AY 2017
The large staircase of this magnificent palazzo leads to several elegant rooms housing paintings, sculptures and 18th century furnishings (first floor): the ‘Portego dei dipinti’ featuring canvases by Canaletto, a room dedicated to Longhi and the frescoes painted by Giandomenico Tiepolo detached from the walls of Villa Zianigo (second floor); the rooms of the Farmacia Ai do San Marchi and the exquisite Pinacoteca Egidio Martini (third floor). Alternately, the Browning Mezzanine houses the works of the Mestrovich Collection, including works by artists like Tintoretto and Bonifacio de' Pitati. Closed on Tues, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10. www.carezzonico.visitmuve. it. Dorsoduro 3136 (Fondamenta Rezzonico). T: 041 2410100. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). Map D5
MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS
Casa Museo Andrich-Modern Art Gallery and Historic Garden The house of the two artists, Clementina and Lucio Andrich, testifies to the artistic vibrancy of Venice between the 1950s and the 1980s. Silks, tapestries, glass, sculptures, paintings, engravings, mosaics and furniture are displayed on a rotational basis and can be admired during a guided tour. Set in an 11,000 square meter orchard-garden, inhabited by herons and flamingoes from March to September, Casa Andrich overlooks the beautiful lagoon landscape of Torcello. Open daily. Guided tours in Italian, English and French are conducted at 10am11am; 2.30pm-3.30pm; 4.30pm-5.30pm. Visits must be booked online (www.veneziaunica.it). Ticket pricing varies based on the type of visit chosen. www.museoandrich.com. Torcello island, 4/L. T: 347 2391861. Vaporetto line 12. Off Map
| SIGHTSEEING
The “Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana”
Fondazione Cini-San Giorgio Maggiore Set against the magnificent backdrop of the Basin of St Mark, the Foundation was established in 1951 by Count Vittorio Cini to restore the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore and to create an international centre of cultural activities. The Foundation is housed in the monumental complex of the former Benedictine Monastery of San Giorgio Maggiore, a place of inestimable architectural and artistic prestige, thanks to works by several of Italy’s greatest 16th and 17th century masters. Enlarged in the 16th century by Andrea Palladio, who also designed its refectory, the church of San Giorgio Maggiore and the Cloister of Cypresses, in addition to numerous other treasures, the complex hosts an impressive collection of paintings by Jacopo Tintoretto, as well as several 16th and 17th century works of arts. Guided tours in Italian, English and French on Saturdays and Sundays. For information and booking T: 041 2201215. Full price ticket €10. www.cini.it. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 2710280. Vaporetto line 2 (Isola di San Giorgio stop). Map G6
Gallerie dell'Accademia di Venezia
VENETIAN MUSEUM HUB Following a Napoleonic decree, the Gallerie dell'Accademia were instituted as an educational adjunct to the Academy of Fine Arts. They host the most important collection of Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo, and works by several important landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The monumental complex hosting these works occupies the ancient church of Santa Maria della Carità, the Scuola Grande della Carità and the Canonici Lateranensi convent complex designed by Andrea Palladio in 1561. Open Mon 8.15am-2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Full ticket price: €9. Ticket pricing may vary during temporary exhibitions. www.gallerieaccademia. it. Dorsoduro 1050 (Campo della Carità). T: 041 5222247. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop). Map D5
Galleria Giorgio Franchetti alla Ca' d'Oro The Ca' d'Oro, an ancient 15th century Patrician dwelling, hosts the art collections that were donated to the State by Baron Giorgio Franchetti. These include period furnishing, tapestries, paintings, sculptures and bronzes. Its current collection features a mixture of
If you stand with your back to Palazzo Ducale you can admire the magnificent Palazzo della Libreria Sansovina, the seat of the Biblioteca Marciana (Marciana National Library), a symbol of Venetian culture. This library boasts a heritage collection of more than one million books preserved alongside the works of great masters including Titian and Tintoretto. Its headquarters, located in the former Mint of Venice and, more specifically, in Piazzetta San Marco, include the adjacent building of the Public Library of St. Mark, with its ancient Reading Room and Vestibule. Some interesting facts for book lovers: its impressive heritage collection includes approximately 1,000,000 books, 13,117 bound manuscripts and 4,639 unbound manuscripts, 2,887 incunabula (documents printed before 1501) and 24,060 ‘cinquecentine’ (16th-century editions).
Renaissance works from the Lombard, Venetian, Reggio Emilia and Flemish schools, as well as masterpieces like Andrea Mantegna’s renowned St. Sebastian. An interesting collection of ceramic relics from the Venetian lagoon are housed at Ca' Duodo, the building lying adjacent to Ca’ d’Oro. Open Mon 8.15am-2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Full ticket price: €6. Ticket pricing may vary during temporary exhibitions. www. cadoro.org. Cannaregio, 3932 (Strada Nuova). T: 041 5200345. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E3
A visit to the Monumental Rooms of the Library is an absolute ‘must’ (opening hours: 10am-7pm). Featuring an extraordinary Staircase of Honour, a Vestibule, which was later transformed into a Public Statuary, and an ornately decorated Library Room, it is of significant artistic and historical interest and well worth a visit. You can access the Monumental Rooms through the entrance of the Correr Museum (St. Mark’s Square, Napoleonic Wing) using the single ticket for all the Museums in St. Mark’s Square, valid for the Doge’s Palace and the combined itinerary of the Museo Correr, the Museo Archeologico Nazionale and the Monumental Rooms of the Marciana National Library (http://correr.visitmuve.it/ it/pianifica-la-tua-visita/biglietti/). Please Note: free guided tours of the Library are organized every second Sunday of the month, booking required. http://marciana.venezia.sbn.it (Stefania Vida)
Museo Archeologico Nazionale Housed with the Correr Museum and the Marciana Library in the rooms of the Procuratie Nuove in St. Mark’s Square, the museum boasts an extraordinary collection of Greek and Roman sculptures as well as a noteworthy selection of ancient coins, gems and cameos, bronze artifacts and pottery. Other highlights include Egyptian and Assyrian-Babylonian antiques and priceless finds of late antiquity. Open daily. www. polomuseale.venezia.beniculturali.it. Entrance and ticket office: Correr Museum, San Marco 52 w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 47
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MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS
(piazzetta San Marco). T: 041 2967663. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 - 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F5
Museo Correr The museum is located in the old Royal Palace in St. Mark’s Square and includes the Napoleonic Wing and the Procuratie Nuove. Built to house Teodoro Correr’s collection, it features several exhibition spaces dedicated to the art and history of Venice. These include the neo-classical rooms housing sculptures by Antonio Canova, historic collections describing the changing cityscape of Venice and, finally, the pinacoteca, boasting important masterpieces of Venetian art from its origins to the 16th century. Open daily. www. correr.visitmuve.it. San Marco 52 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2405211. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso stop or, San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 - 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Museo d'Arte Orientale-Ca’ Pesaro The museum, located on the top floor of the Galleria Internazionale d’Arte Moderna, is housed in an ancient building on the Grand Canal designed by Baldassare Longhena for the Pesaro family. Here, you will find one of the most important collections in the world of Japanese art from the Edo period: more than 30,000 pieces including swords and daggers, Japanese armour, delicate lacquer ware palanquin and priceless porcelain. Other highlights include extensive sections dedicated to Chinese and Indonesian art. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket (integrated with the International Gallery of Modern Art) €10. www. arteorientale.org. Santa Croce, 2076.T: 041 5241173. Vaporetto line 2 (San Stae stop). Map E3
Museo del Merletto (Lace Museum) Located in Burano, the museum is housed in a small building, formerly home to Venice’s famous Lace School. Boasting more than two-hundred rare, priceless pieces, the exhibition chronicles the evolution of the art of lace-making in Venice from the 16th to 20th centuries. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €5. Joint ticket for the Glass Museum and the Lace Museum €12. www.museomerletto.visitmuve.it. Piazza Galuppi 187, Burano. T: 041 730034. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2, 5.2 (Fondamenta Nove stop), and then line 12 (Burano stop). Off Map
Museo del Vetro (Glass Museum) Housed in the aristocratic palazzo Giustinian, on the island of Murano, the collections exhibited at the museum are arranged in chronological order: in addition to the archaeological section featuring Roman remains from the 1st and 2nd centuries A.D., you can also find an extensive range of historical objet d’art made from Murano glass, including important pieces produced between the 15th and 20th centuries. Open daily. Full price ticket €10. Joint ticket for the Glass Museum + Lace Museum €12. www.museovetro.visitmuve.it. Fondamenta Giustinian, 8. Murano. T: 041 5274718. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2 (Museo Murano stop). Off Map
Museo di San Marco The itinerary that you’ll follow inside the museum, will take you from the historic area above the atrium-narthex of the Basilica and the former Banqueting Hall of the Doges, through the three extensive themes that are a part of the heritage of St. Mark’s Basilica: Mosaics, Textiles, the Quadriga and the Antico. Particularly noteworthy, amongst its relics and artworks, are the famous gilded bronze horses of St. Marks and the Basilica’s ancient fragments of mosaics, preserved in special containers known as ‘cassine’. The tour of the museum takes visitors through various areas of the Basilica, we therefore suggest wearing attire that is respectful of the religious nature of the Basilica. Open daily 9.45am-4.45pm. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €5. www.museosanmarco.it. San Marco 328 (Procuratoria di San Marco). T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto linee 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 o 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Museo delle Icone The museum is owned by the Hellenic Institute of Byzantine and Post-Byzantine Studies of Venice and is located on the first floor of the Confraternita dei Greci (Scoletta di San Nicolò, designed by Baldassare Longhena in the 17th century). It houses approximately 80 Byzantine and post-Byzantine icons dating from the 14th through 18th centuries, as well as illuminated codes, sacred garments embroidered in gold and small artisanal artifacts of considerable historic and artistic value. Open daily from 9am-5pm. www.istitutoellenico.org/museo. Castello 3412 (Campo dei Greci). T: 041 5226581. Vaporetto lines 1, 2, 4.1, 5.1, 14, 15, 19, 20 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4
This 17th century violin belonging to Martinus Kaiser is one of the priceless masterpieces preserved at the MUSEO QUERINI STAMPALIA.
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Museo di Storia Naturale Housed in the Palazzo del Fondaco dei Turchi on the Grand Canal, its original, contemporary layout is divided into three sections each of which is, in actual fact, a museum within a museum. Its collection includes more than two million pieces:
zoological and paleontological collections, ancient herbariums, plant and fish fossils, a collection of minerals, a wunderkammer (cabinet of curiosities) housing more than 2,000 examples of different animal parts and a Venetian fish tank. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €8. www.msn.visitmuve.it. Santa Croce, 1730 (Fondaco dei Turchi). T: 041 2750206. Vaporetto line 1 (San Stae stop). Map D3
Museo Ebraico di Venezia
JEWISH MUSEUM This a ‘dispersed museum’; a highly unusual urban architectural museum complex that includes the museum itself, the Ghetto, synagogues and an ancient cemetery. It contains a small but precious collection of artifacts related to the long history of the Jews in Venice. Thanks to guided tours (in Italian and English), you can visit three of the area’s five historic synagogues, located between the Ghetto Vecchio (Old Ghetto) and the Ghetto Nuovo (New Ghetto), and the Old Cemetery (16th-18th century) in San Nicolò del Lido. Finally, to commemorate the tragedy of the Second World War, there is a bronze relief Holocaust Memorial in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo. Jewish Museum: open 10am7pm (from 1 June to 30 September); 10am-5.30pm (from 1 October to 31 May). Guided tours of the Museum + synagogues: hourly from 10.30am to 4.30pm (1 October-31 May) or until 5.30pm (1 June-30 September). Museum, synagogues and cemetery closed on Saturdays and on Jewish holidays, 25 December, 1 January, 1 May. Full price ticket €4; Jewish Museum + guided tour of the synagogues : full price ticket €10. www. museoebraico.it. Cannaregio 2902\b. T: 041 71535. Vaporetto lines 1-2 (San Marcuola-Ghetto stop), lines 41-42-51-52 (Ponte delle Guglie-Ghetto stop). Map D2
Museo Querini Stampalia The Querini Stampalia house-museum is an opulent patrician dwelling located on the ‘piano nobile’ of a 16th century palazzo, and features several unusual architectural elements designed by Carlo Scarpa, Valeriano Pastor and Mario Botta. Works displayed include paintings by Giovanni Bellini, Jacopo Palma the Elder and the Younger, Bernardo Strozzi, Marco and Sebastiano Ricci, Giambattista Tiepolo, Pietro Longhi and Gabriel Bella. In addition to the museum, the complex also has a library and a space dedicated to contemporary art exhibitions. Closed on Mondays. Museum and Display Areas full ticket price €10; Scarpa Area full ticket price €8. www. querinistampalia.it. Castello, 5252 (Santa Maria Formosa). T: 041 2711411. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (Rialto stop), lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1, 5.2, 7, 20 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Museo Storico Navale della Marina Militare The Historic Naval Museum, the most important of its kind in Italy, is owned by the Italian Navy and is devoted to Venice’s seafaring history. In addition to the main building, whose exhibition spaces span 42 rooms and five floors, the ‘Padiglione delle Navi’ (Ships Pavilion), located in the Arsenale’s old ‘Oars Workshop’, is also a part of the museum. Built in the mid-16th century as a workshop to build and store oars, since 1980 it has housed an impressive collection of historical vessels, and is an extension of the main museum’s headquarters. > Venice’s Historic Naval Museum (Castello 2148,
MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS
Riva San Biasio. T: 041 2441399) is currently closed for renovation but the Padiglione delle Navi, located just steps from the Naval Museum, is open for public viewing, > Padiglione delle Navi: from 1 June to 31 October: open daily, 8.45am-5pm (last admission 4.30pm); from 1 November to 31 May: Mon-Thurs 8.45am-1.30pm, Fri 8.45am-5pm (last admission 4.30pm), Sat-Sun and public holidays 10am-5pm. Full ticket price €5. www.marina.difesa.it. Castello 2162/c (Rio della Tana). T: 041 2711411. Vaporetto line 1, 4.1, 4.2 (Arsenale stop). Map H5
Museo Vedova-Magazzini del Sale The objective of the Emilio and Annabianca Vedova Foundation is to promote the art and work of artist Emilio Vedova with a series of cultural initiatives (research, exhibitions, educational activities, conventions, study grants and awards). Its two permanent exhibition spaces, used to showcase works by the latter, also host temporary exhibitions and events on a rotational basis: the Magazzini del Sale 266 – based on a project by Renzo Piano – and the former Studio Vedova. Closed on Tuesdays, 25 December. Full price ticket €8; www.fondazionevedova.org. Magazzini del Sale Dorsoduro 266 (Zattere). Spazio Vedova –Ticket Office and Bookshop Dorsoduro 50 (Zattere). T: 041 2410833. Vaporetto line 1 (Accademia stop or Salute stop), 2 (Accademia stop), 5.1/5.2 (Spirito Santo stop), 6 (Zattere stop). Map E6
Palazzo Cini-La Galleria Situated in the Venetian 'Museums Mile', between the Accademia, the Peggy Guggenheim collection and the Punta della Dogana, the 16th century Palazzo Cini in San Vio is the house-museum of Count Vittorio Cini, and houses some remarkable art collections: 14th-15th century paintings from Tuscany and Ferraro (Piero della Francesca, Filippo Lippi, Dosso Dossi and Cosmè Tura), period furniture, silverware, ivories and ceramics. Closed on Tuesdays. Full price ticket €10. www. palazzocini.it. Dorsoduro 864 (San Vio). T: 041
2710217. Vaporetto Lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop), lines 2, 4, 5, 6 (Zattere stop). Map E5
Palazzo Ducale A landmark attraction, a masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, Venice’s Ducal Palace features a number of different and intricate architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it not only houses temporary exhibitions but can also be visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. The public entrance to the Doge’s Palace is through the ‘Porta del Frumento’ which leads to the spacious council rooms and then onwards to the exquisite rooms of the Doge’s Apartment. Other highlights on this route include the prisons and loggias overlooking the square and the lagoon. Open daily. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 1 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti), 5.1 or 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Palazzo Fortuny Mariano Fortuny (Granada 1871 - Venice 1949) transformed Palazzo Pesaro degli Orfei into his own personal atelier for photography, set-design, textile creations and paintings. The museum’s collections boasts an extensive collection of pieces and materials commissioned for important projects: paintings, lighting systems, photography and ornate garments. The building is now used to host art exhibitions. The museum is open only during temporary exhibitions. Open 10am-6pm. Closed on Tuesdays. Please note that prices vary depending on the exhibition being shown. www. fortuny.visitmuve.it. San Marco 3958 (Campo San Benedeto). T: 041 5200995. Vaporetto line 1 (Sant’Angelo stop), 2 (San Samuele stop). Map E4
Palazzo Grassi Museo Punta della Dogana Overlooking the Grand Canal and recently
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restored by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, Venice’s 18th century Palazzo Grassi and the former harbour of Punta della Dogana are two contemporary art museums funded by the François Pinault Foundation. They host important collective or monographic exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault Collection, one of the world’s largest collections of contemporary art. Palazzo Grassi’s ‘Teatrino’, an adjunct to the exhibition spaces, offers an action packed calendar of conferences, concerts and screenings of an international scope. Open daily 10am7pm. Closed on Tuesdays, 25 December. Full price ticket €18 (Punta della Dogana+Palazzo Grassi). www. palazzograssi.it. T: 041 2001057. Palazzo Grassi San Marco 3231 (Campo San Samuele). Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop), 1 (Sant’Angelo stop). Map D4 • Museo Punta della Dogana Dorsoduro 2. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map F5
Palazzo Grimani Originally the home of the Grimani family, it was enlarged in the 16th century and decorated with frescoes, marbles and stuccoes that made it one of Venice’s most unique buildings in terms of its architecture, history and cultural and artistic offerings. Opened to the public in 2008 following its in-depth restoration, it is now a museum hosting a few select works, typifying the style of 16th century collections. Open Mon 8.15am2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Closed 1 January, 1 May, 25 December. Full ticket price: €4. Ticket pricing may vary during temporary exhibitions. www.palazzogrimani.org. Castello, 4858. Info and bookings T: 041 5200345. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (Rialto stop), line 14, 5.1, 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Palazzo Mocenigo - Centro Studi di Storia del Tessuto e del Costume Formerly a patrician residence, in 1985 it became the Study Centre of the History of Fabrics and Costumes. Its exhibition spaces explore various aspects of the lives and activities of
MUSEUM PASS
11 MUSEUMS, 1 TICKET The Museum Pass is a cumulative ticket that offers access to all the permanent collections of Venice’s civic and affiliated museums. It is valid for 6 months and allows one entry per museum site. Full price ticket €24 > This ticket is valid for: Palazzo Ducale, Museo Correr, Museo Archeologico Nazionale, Sale Monumentali della Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana; Ca’ Rezzonico-Museo del Settecento Veneziano; Museo di Palazzo Mocenigo e Centro Studi di Storia del Tessuto e del Costume; Casa di Carlo Goldoni and Biblioteca di Studi Teatrali; Ca’ Pesaro-Galleria Internazionale d’Arte Moderna + Museo d’Arte Orientale; Museo del Vetro; Museo del Merletto; Museo di Storia Naturale. Info & Reservations: www.visitmuve.it Call center 848 082000. From abroad +39 041 42730892.
Museo Correr
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MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS
+ church €8. www.scuolasangiovanni.it. San Polo, 2454 (Campiello della Scuola). T: 041 718234. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4
Scuola Grande di San Rocco The headquarters of the San Rocco Brotherhood, this stunning building, to which hardly any modifications have been made, hosts more than 60 masterpieces by artists of the likes of Giorgione, Tiepolo and Titian, still presented in their original layout. Its establishment represented an important moment in the history of 16th century Venetian art, above all thanks to Tintoretto’s famous cycle of Old and New Testament scenes. Open daily, 9.30am-5.30pm. Closed on 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10; Scuola Grande + church €8. www.scuolagrandesanrocco.it. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco stop). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4
Torre dell’Orologio (Clock Tower)
GALLERIE DELL’ACCADEMIA This Venetian museum hub hosts the most important collection of Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Don’t miss the outstanding works by Bellini, Giorgione, Titian, Tintoretto, Tiepolo and Canaletto. www.gallerieaccademia.it
Venetian aristocrats between the 17th and 18th centuries. The exhibits on display include opulent garments and olden-day accessories, with a section dedicated to perfume. The palazzo’s furnishings and paintings have been integrated with a number of works originating from the warehouses of Venice’s civic museums. PASSION TIP Don’t miss the itineraries dedicated to Perfume and the “Perfume Composition Courses” (2 hours, 80/100 euro per participant, including Kit and perfume). Reservation is necessary: mocenigo.visitmuve. it/workshop. Closed on Mon. Full price ticket €8. www.mocenigo.visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 1992. T: 041 721798. Vaporetto line 1 (San Stae stop). Map E3
Peggy Guggenheim Collection Palazzo Venier dei Leoni The museum, boasting one of the most important collections of 20th century art in Europe, hosts the personal collection of American heiress Peggy Guggenheim. Her palatial canal side home showcases her collection of Cubist, Furturist, Surrealist and Abstract Expressionist art, with works by almost 200 artists, including Picasso, Pollock, Kandinsky, Miró, de Chirico and Dalí. It also hosts the works of other important collections and prestigious temporary exhibitions. Open Wed-Mon 10am6pm; Closed on Tuesdays. Full price ticket €15. www.guggenheim-venice.it. Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, Dorsoduro 701 (Canal Grande). T: 041 2405.440/419. Vaporetto line 2 (Accademia stop), line 1 (Accademia stop or Salute stop). Map E5
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Sale Monumentali della Biblioteca Marciana The old St. Mark’s Library, or Sansoviniana Library, is a museum space that is used to host exhibitions and events. Designed mainly by Jacopo Sansovino, standouts include a Stairway of Honour, a Vestibule and a Reading Room embellished with 16th century decorations. Together with Palazzo della Zecca, where the reading rooms and offices are located, it is still a part of the monumental headquarters of the Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana which in addition to rare books also hosts priceless, antique manuscripts. Open daily. www.marciana.venezia. sbn.it. Entrance and Ticket Office: Museo Correr, San Marco 52 (piazzetta San Marco). T: 041 2407211. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso stop, San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1, 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F5
The Clock or Mori Tower dates back to the 15th century and is one of Venice’s most famous architectural attractions. Like a triumphal arch, it dominates the entrance from St. Mark’s Square to the city’s shop-filled Mercerie (from the word ‘Merchandise’). If you stand close up, you can observe the complex mechanisms of this large astrological clock, a masterpiece of technology and engineering. After climbing the spiral staircase, you emerge onto its terraces from which you can enjoy a magnificent view over St. Mark’s Square. Admission subject to reservation, with an expert tour guide. (T: 848 082000 MonFri 9am-1pm/2pm-6pm; Sat 9am-2pm; www. torreorologio.visitmuve.it). Full price ticket €12. www.torreorologio.visitmuve.it. Piazza San Marco. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 or 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Scuola Grande di San Giovanni Evangelista Founded in 1261, the School is housed in a complex featuring several different architectural styles, including masterpieces of Renaissance art like its superb double staircase (1498) right up to the final major architectural changes made in the 18th century to enhance the Sala Capitolare. It contains numerous artistic masterpieces, including works by Tintoretto, Palma the Younger and Tiepolo. Today, the School is a prestigious space used to host congresses, art exhibitions and concerts. Tours are suspended during congresses. Visit the website to check the days on which the museum is open to the public. Open daily, 9.30am-5pm. Full price ticket €5; Scuola Grande
An antique Limoges pyx (1270-1290) preserved at PALAZZO CINI-LA GALLERIA.
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© LA BELLA ADDORMENTATA NEL BOSCO_PH FSQUEGLIA
ENTERTAINMENT
A fairy tale en pointe
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f you’re visiting Venice, the Teatro La Fenice is a must! With a seating capacity of over one thousand people, this magnificent opera house boasts excellent acoustics, a 98-member orchestra and 66-person opera chorus, a dedicated local audience and a large international following. The theatre is a leading creative venue, staging more than one hundred opera performances per year, a major symphonic season conducted by prominent conductors from across the globe, a program that includes the full cycles of symphonies by Beethoven, Schumann, Brahms and Mahler, and several traditional and contemporary ballets. From 10 to 14 May, La Fenice’s orchestra will accompany the corps de ballet of the Teatro 52 W H E R E V E N I C E I M AY 2017
dell’Opera di Roma in the representation of one of the most moving and famous fairy tale from the Romantic period. The Sleeping Beauty was Charles Perrault’s renowned version that inspired Tchaikovsky to compose the score for the second, and possibly most captivating, of his three ballets. The ballet was premiered to great acclaim and success, with choreography by the great Marius Pepita, at the Mariinsky Theatre in St. Petersburg in 1890. The choreography of this edition is by Jean Guillaume Bart, based on Pepita’s original choreography. >> The Sleeping Beauty 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, May at Teatro La Fenice www.teatrolafenice.it
© MICHELE CROSERA
Located in the heart of one of the Lagoon’s most vibrant districts, every year La Fenice offers an impressive program. This month, don’t miss one of the world's most famous and moving fairy tales...
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM
CONCERT VENUES & THEATRES Teatro Goldoni The Goldoni Theater is the oldest theater in Venice and the fourth most ancient in the city. Built by the Vendramin family in 1622, it was originally named after them. Its high point came in 1752, when it engaged Carlo Goldoni, the city’s most important dramatist at that time. It was renovated several times, first in 1818 and subsequently in 1933 and in 1979. In addition to Verona’s Teatro Nuovo and Padua’s Teatro Verdi, the Goldoni Theater is now managed by the Teatro Stabile di Veneto. www. teatrostabiledelveneto.it. San Marco, 4650/B. T: 041 2402011. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto stop). Map E4
Teatro La Fenice
UNMISSABLE Located in the Sestiere San Marco, La Fenice Opera House is the one of the most legendary opera houses in Italy. Twice destroyed by fire (1836 and 1996) and twice restored to its former splendour, for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, symphonies and the International Festival of Contemporary Music. In the 19th century, it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Gioachino Rossini, Vincenzo Bellini, Gaetano Donizetti and Giuseppe Verdi, while in the 20th century it became a focal point for contemporary productions, featuring world premieres by Igor Stravinskij, Benjamin Britten, Sergej Prokofiev, Luigi Nono and Bruno Maderna and recently also operas by Mauricio Kagel, Adriano Guarnieri, Luca Mosca and Claudio Ambrosini. www.teatrolafenice.it. The theater is generally open daily for tours from 9.30am to 6pm. Full ticket: 10 €. The ticket price includes an audio guide, available in 5 languages (Italian, English, German, French and Spanish). San Marco, 4387 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 786672. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5
Currently celebrating its 94th edition, the rich events calendar of this year’s Opera Festival featured 46 performances with 5 operas staged on a rotational basis: ‘Carmen’ by Georges Bizet, ‘Aida’, ‘La Traviata’, ‘Il Trovatore’ by Giuseppe Verdi and ‘Turandot’ by Giacomo Puccini. (www.mostracallas.it). www.arena. it. Verona, piazza Bra 1. T: 045 8005151, 5873. Off Map
Teatro Olimpico Vicenza One of Vicenza’s artistic marvels (located 75 km from Venice), the Teatro Olimpico was designed by Renaissance architect Andrea Palladio in 1580. It is the first and oldest covered ‘Teatro Stabile’ in the world. Its interior simulates the outdoor setting of classical theatres, with a monumental rectangular proscenium, built to host its inaugural performance in 1585. Seven wooden perspective scenes depicting the streets of Thebes depart from here in a sunburst pattern. Included in UNESCO’s list of World Heritage Sites in 1994, it continues to host performances and concerts. www.teatrolimpicovicenza.it. Vicenza, piazza Matteotti, 11. T: 0444 222800. Off Map
WELLNESS Boscolo Venezia Elegance, style and design blend to create a regenerating oasis, the ideal place for a oneof-a-kind pampering experience offering a rich program of wellness and body treatments. c/o Boscolo Venezia. Cannaregio, 3500 (Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto - Calle Larga Piave). T: 041 2208111. Vaporetto line 4.1 and 5.1 (Sant’Alvise stop). Map E2
Centro Benessere Casanova
GAMBLING & CASINOS
An intimate, relaxing location set in the gardens where Casanova was known to court his lovers. The Center offers a wide range of treatments and massages with a particular emphasis on facials and body treatments. c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. www.belmond.com. Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801. Vaporetto line 4.1 (Zitelle stop). Map F4
Casinò di Venezia
San Clemente Palace Kempinski
Inaugurated in 1638, this is the world's oldest gaming house and its charm has remained unaltered over the years. A perfect example of renaissance style stately home, the dwelling place of the doges and Richard Wagner’s last residence, Ca’ Vendramin Calergi is one of the most elegant buildings overlooking Venice’s major waterway, the Grand Canal. Today the rooms for elegant French games and American gaming tables are given over to the best professionals, whilst over 600 slot machines provide a more informal way of having fun. For venues, opening times, tickets: www.casinovenezia. it. Ca’ Vendramin Calergi - Cannaregio, 2040. T. 041 5297111. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marcuola stop). • Ca' Noghera - Italy’s first American-style casino, opened in 1999, it offers over 5,000 square meters of entertainment, including a new poker room for Texas hold’em Poker tournaments. Via Paliaga 4/8 Tessera (5 minutes from the Marco Polo Airport). Map E2
VENETO HOT VENUES Arena di Verona The best-preserved Roman amphitheater in the world and the best known in Italy after Rome’s Colosseum, the Arena, the city’s legendary open-air opera house, is located in Verona’s historic centre (115 km from Venice). Each summer, since 1913, it has hosted a famous opera festival featuring must-see performances and internationally renowned stars.
Here you can experience the Herb Massage Therapy service, a new approach to healing: an intimate and authentic journey based on the restorative powers of herb plants and the sensuous scents of Venice. The San Clemente Palace Kempinski offers a variety of massages - relaxing, Swedish and deep tissue - combining essential oils of lavender, rosemary and sage. Teas and coffee made with Venetian herbs and spices are complimentary. c/o San Clemente Palace Kempinski. www.kempinski.com. Isola di San Clemente, 1. T: 041 4750111. Hotel’s complimentary boat from piazza San Marco. Off Map
JW Marriott Venice Housed in a simple and elegant building, the Spa – the largest in Venice with its 1,750 m² – opens like a shell onto the water and has eight treatment cabins with a view of the lagoon and a marvellous suite. c/o JW Marriott Venice. www.jwvenice.com. Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco. T: 041 8521300. Private boat from piazza San Marco c/o moletto JW Marriott every 30 minutes. Off Map
Eforea Spa The Spa offers five treatment rooms but also a sauna, a Turkish bath, a Jacuzzi and a relaxation area. Make sure to visit its panoramic swimming pool (reserved for hotel guests only). c/o Hilton Molino Stucky. molinostuckyhilton.it. Giudecca, 810. T: 041 2723414. Vaporetto line 4.1 (Giudecca stop). Map G6
LA FENICE OPERA HOUSE www.teatrolafenice.it ■ OPERA 2 May LUCIA DI LAMMERMOOR (English surtitles) Music by: Gaetano Donizetti Riccardo Frizza, conductor Francesco Micheli, director Nicolas Bovey, sets 19, 24, 26, 28, 30 May, 1, 3 June and 12, 13, 14, 16 July LA TRAVIATA Music by: Giuseppe Verdi Robert Carsen, director Patrick Kinmonth, sets and costumes 23, 25, 27, 31 May and 4, 6 June IL BARBIERE DI SIVIGLIA (English surtitles) Music by: Gioachino Rossini Alessandro De Marchi, conductor Bepi Morassi, director ■ CHAMBER MUSIC 16, 17 May (Sale Apollinee) MUSIKÀMERA – LUKASZ KRUPINSKI IN RECITAL Music by: Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, Frédéric Chopin, Maurice Ravel, Sergej Prokofiev Lukasz Krupinski, piano 28, 29 May MUSIKÀMERA – LAURA MARZADORI / OLAF LANERI Music by: Ludwig van Beethoven, Edward Grieg, Igor Stravinskij Laura Marzadori, violin Olaf Laneri, piano ■ BALLET 10, 11, 12, 13, 14 May THE SLEEPING BEAUTY Music by: Pëtr Il’ič Čajkovskij Jean-Guillaume Bart, choreographer Aldo Buti, sets & costumes Roma Opera House Ballet ■ CONCERTS 5, 7 May (Malibran Theatre) JEFFREY TATE CONCERT Music by: Gioachino Rossini, Benjamin Britten, Ludwig van Beethoven Jeffrey Tate, conductor 21 May JAMES CONLON & RAI NATIONAL SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA Music by: Hector Berlioz, Claude Debussy, Igor Stravinskij James Conlon, conductor Ula Ulijona, viola
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OUT OF TOWN
Veneto, all the allure of the region Villa Pisani, Stra
Several charming destinations, a perfect way to spend a relaxing day while having fun. By Simona P.K. Daviddii
VILLAS OF BRENTA The magnificent Brenta Riviera, crossed by the Brenta River and its canals, occupies most of the stretch of land that runs from Padua to Venice. Over the centuries, sumptuous villas, set in lush, beautifully tended gardens, were built on the banks of different waterways. There are approximately thirty villas, and the best way to admire them is from the water, embarking either in Padua or Venice for a pleasant day cruise, perhaps on board a ‘burchiello’, a reproduction of the ancient 18th century craft used by Venetian noblemen. Among the gems that embellish the shores, the monumental Villa Pisani in Stra, is a must see. Palladio also left his mark on Brenta: near Mira, you will find the 16th century Villa Foscari also known as la Malcontenta. In Mira, make sure to visit the 16th century Villa Contarini dei Leoni and in its vicinity Villa Widman, a spectacular 18th century complex. The last noteworthy aristocratic dwelling is Villa Sagredo in Vignovo. It was built on the remains 54 W H E R E V E N I C E I M AY 2017
of a medieval castle and is still inhabited, some say, by the ghost of Giovanni Sagredo, a disciple and friend of Galileo Galilei. www.rivieradelbrentaturismo.com
Above all, Verona is known as the city of love. It is the famous setting of Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet, but it is also a vibrant town, boasting an intense cultural life. You are likely to stumble upon Juliet’s house with its beautiful Gothic portal and famous balcony, while strolling through the streets of the ancient city, amidst squares, porticoes, aristocratic palazzi, medieval towers, churches and courts. Romeo’s house, with its imposing crenellated walls, is located just a little further on. The Adige river is located just steps away, and a sunset stroll along its shores and over its
VERONA Located just over a hundred kilometers from Venice, Verona captivates visitors with a stunning medieval historical center, encircling the Roman Arena – the ultimate stage for musical events in summer. Although the Arena attracts music lovers/aficionados from all over the world, the haunts of Romeo and Juliet are no less popular.
Cortina d'Ampezzo
?
Marostica ?
LUGANO MENDRISIO
Vicenza BERGAMO BRESCIA Verona
?
?
NOVARA
MILANO Mantua
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Abano Montegrotto ?
Padua
?
?
Palmanova
? ? Noventa di Piave
?Venice
TRIESTE
? Chioggia
ALESSANDRIA TORINO
Treviso
FERRARA PIACENZA GENOVA
BOLOGNA
RIMINI
MAR LIGURE VENTIMIGLIA
MAR ADRIATICO
PISA
LIVORNO
FIRENZE ANCONA
CENTURIES OF HISTORY On the previous page, Villa Pisani in Stra, one of the most famous Veneto Villas . On the right, the Arena di Verona. Below, a breathtaking view of Cortina d'Ampezzo, in the heart of the Dolomites and, at the bottom, Treviso.
historical bridges allows visitors to absorb some of Verona’s most romantic, scenic views – the perfect place to fall in love. www.tourism.verona.it DISTANCE FROM VENICE: 115 km CORTINA D'AMPEZZO Don’t miss the opportunity of a weekend getaway at one of Italy’s most exclusive resorts, a charming town exclusively positioned in the heart of the breathtaking Dolomites. A symbol of style, fashion and the Italian way of life, Cortina is the spectacular scenery and full range of alpine sports and outdoor activities offered by this bustling mountain town, attract nature lovers and sports enthusiasts during all seasons. First rate skiing, a lively après-ski scene, exclusive shopping and a great choice of events and entertainment, confirms Cortina’s position as a world-class winter destination. Winter offers an array of outdoor activities including excursions on snowcats and sleighs, nighttime descents from mountain refuges, romantic helitours, ice driving, snowkiting and horse-drawn sleigh rides… to enjoy the magic of the Dolomites from dawn to dusk. cortina.dolomiti.org - www.dolomitiskirock.com
DISTANCE FROM VENICE 420 km
Verona
Cortina d'Ampezzo Photo: Snowdog
TREVISO Lying at the heart of the city is piazza dei Signori, home to Palazzo dei Trecento and the elegant Loggia Dei Cavalieri. Its two rivers, the Sile and the Cagnan, meander gently amidst its streets adding a unique touch of charm to its historic centre encircled by the old town walls. Its colonnaded houses with their frescoed facades overlooking the Buranelli canal and the Isola della Pescheria tell of Treviso’s close relationship with its waters. The artistic treasures housed in the Duomo and in the museum hub of Santa Caterina dei Servi di Mari are particularly noteworthy and include works by Bellini, Lotto, Titian and Bassano. Art lovers should make a point of visiting Casa dei Carraresi which hosts prestigious international exhibitions. A city with a beguiling charm all of its own brimming over with picturesque osterie and small cafes overlooking its squares. DISTANCE FROM VENICE: 30 km
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OUT OF TOWN | EUGANEAN HILLS
Euganei Hills
A blend of art and nature The Regional Park of the Euganean Hills was established in 1989, and is located southwest of Padua. It offers visitors a unique blend of breathtaking landscapes, history and artistic attractions. While travelling across the plains of the Veneto region, visitors will be astonished by the unexpected sight of the Euganean Hills. Standing in total isolation southwest of Padua, their conical shapes testifies to their volcanic past, though they are never higher than 600 metres. The Regional Park of the Euganean Hills was established in 1989 to protect this area of the volcanic hills that were formed 35 million years ago.
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Offering views of rare beauty, they abound in beech and chestnut woods, enhanced by vast expanses of lush meadows and vineyards, interrupted only by picturesque, historic towns, isolated castles and aristocratic dwellings of a bygone era. Veneto’s Euganean Hills are the perfect place to indulge in leisurely excursions on foot, horseback or mountain bikes. Criss-crossed by a vast network of trails and footpaths, the area’s most scenic itineraries include the trail that leads to the Schivanoia waterfall in Teolo, and the path to the Costa Lake. Fed by hot water originating from thermal springs, the lake is the main ‘supplier’ of the therapeutic mud used by the Euganee Spa complex and it is situated just a short distance from Arquà Petrarca, one of the most beautiful towns in Italy. Other attractions worth visiting in the Regional Park include two walled cities. These are Este, encircled by a curtain wall featuring twelve towers, separated by curtain walls with Guelph crenellations and two imposing keeps, whose original plan dates back to 1050, and Monselice, where an ancient medieval castle vies for attention with elegant patrician
dwellings, like Villa Nani-Moncenigo, and the 16th century Villa Emi Capodilista. The imposing remains of a Frederician tower dominate the latter. As far as villas are concerned, the area encompassing the Euganean Hills boasts several noble dwellings. These are renowned for their sophisticated architecture and are set within beautifully tended grounds. The most impressive of these is the 17th century Villa Barbarigo in Galzignano Terme. Its magnificent Baroque garden has 16 fountains, 70 statues, three water features and an ancient boxwood labyrinth. The Colli area is also noted for its picturesque Strada del Vino (Wine Road) which allows visitors to discover one of the area’s most unique Docg wines, ‘Fior d’Arancio’ (‘orange blossom’), a white wine that can be sampled in three different versions: dry, spumante and a sweet ‘passito’ (or dessert wine). From wine to water, part of the Euganean Hills can also be visited aboard a motorboat river cruise. The tour starts from Battaglia Terme and ends in Bassanello on the outskirts of Padua. En-route, visitors can admire the Catajo Castle (1570) and the monumental Villa Molin.
Magical water
PHOTOS © SHUTTERSTOCK
One of the largest and most important spa centres in Europe, the thermal baths in Abano and Montegrotto have been renowned for the therapeutic properties of their water and mud since ancient Roman times. Before gushing to the surface with an average temperature of 75° centigrade, the waters of the Terme Euganee take 25 years to travel 80 kilometres underground at a depth of 3,000 metres. Their journey takes them through calcareous rocks where they are enriched by precious mineral salts that make them the most effective salt-bromine-iodine therapeutic waters of all time. Their extraordinary therapeutic properties were recognized in Roman times (the acronym spa derives from the Latin word salus per aquam, health through water) and were widely enjoyed more than 2,000 years ago by the ancient populations, who settled and succeeded one another in the area. An interesting fact: the ancient Venetians venerated Aponus, the god of thermal waters and curative treatments, hence the name Abano. Although the first thermal facilities were only established in the 18th century, the area of Abano, Montegrotto, Galzignano, Battaglia and Teolo now boasts 130 facilities equipped with spas (and more than 220 swimming pools) offering balneotherapy, the immersion in thermal baths to alleviate muscular and joint pain, and improve skin conditions. Other treatments include hydrokinetic therapy, an ideal therapy for post-traumatic rehabilitation, as well as inhalation therapy and mud therapy. In addition to the curative waters of the Terme Euganee, the local vegetal-mineral mud, obtained from the mineralization of earth and clay and the formation of special microscopic algae, also contains important thermal properties. The Terme Euganee are not only effective for healing. The water and mud are also used for wellness and beauty treatments, including detoxification and relaxing programs, anticellulite and weight-loss massages and anti-
ageing masks to combat the loss of skin tone and restore elasticity. And that’s not all! Once you have completed your treatment regimen, you can take home the exclusive cosmetic of "Venetian Thermal Water", made with local thermal water of the Euganean Hills (www. aquaehotels.it). Between treatments, those wishing to explore the surrounding areas should head to the picturesque town of Battaglia Terme, a romantic location overlooking a series of canals. Other must-visit sites while in the area include the numerous Renaissance villas surrounding Galzignano Terme and the ancient archaeological excavations of Montegrotto Terme, including the three Roman baths decorated with mosaics and
marble flooring. Finally, don’t miss the Casa delle Farfalle (the House of Butterflies) in Montegrotto). This magical place is ‘inhabited’ by live species of butterflies from all over the world. The House of Butterflies is connected to the Bosco delle Fate (the Fairies Wood), an enchanted place, where each tree is associated with a fairytale or legend.
SPA HOTELS
ONLY 45 MINUTES FROM VENICE
Thirty spas and wellness hotels in the province of Padua are associated with the Aquaehotels consortium. aquaehotels.it Abano Terme ***** Abano Grand Hotel (L) | Due Torri | Grand Hotel Trieste & Victoria **** Alexander Palace | All’Alba | Astoria | Gran Torino | Internazionale | La Residence & Idrokinesis (S) | Metropole (S) | Palace Meggiorato | Park Hotel | Tritone (S) *** Dolomiti | Firenze | Paradiso | Principe | Smeraldo | Verdi (S) ** Belvedere Montegrotto Terme ***** Relilax Miramonti **** Bellavista | Continental | Delle Nazioni | Garden (S) | Mioni Royal San *** Commodore | Eliseo (S) | Marconi Teolo ** Mamma Margherita
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ESSENTIALS
Venice, the Floating City Some information and invaluable tips to experience the best that this magical city on water has to offer. By Simona P. K. Daviddi Italians (at least many of them), may already know that Venice… actually floats! Unlike Amsterdam or Saint Petersburg, it is not just furrowed by canals, bordered by roads and pavements. In Venice, canals are the only available communication route, bearing in mind that part of the city extends over a handful of beautiful islands that are scattered across the Lagoon. For this reason, the lagoon city can only be crossed on foot or by boat. Cars, motorbikes, bicycles and even roller skates are strictly forbidden. But this is not all. At times Venice may find itself... under water! The acqua alta phenomenon – the result of heavy rainfall and high tides - can cause the water level to rise by as much as a meter, forcing everyone to walk on raised plank walkways, or don rain boots (many shops, including tobacconists, sell disposable 58 W H E R E V E N I C E I M AY 2017
ones) in order to cross the city’s flooded calli, campielli and salizade. Calli, campielli and salizade are Venetian words used to identify streets, squares and alleys while sestieri is the local word indicating the six districts the city is divided into: San Marco, Dorsoduro, Cannaregio, Santa Croce, San Polo and Castello. This division dates back to the 12th century and also includes areas such as La Giudecca, the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore (San Marco) and the Island of San Michele, home to the city’s cemetery (Castello). Street numbers in each sestiere start from 1 and often reach four figures, for example, one of the last numbers of the sestiere of Castello is 7,000. You need to learn them if you want to find your way through the spectacular, maze-like historic centre.
Venice also has its own network of public... and private transportation: its vaporetti, real waterbuses, are the most popular craft used by locals, which is why they are often very crowded during peak hours. These enginepowered water taxis are able to whiz across the lagoon in a heartbeat, but for those who prefer a unique, incredibly romantic experience, the famous, distinctive gondola is an absolute must. This elegant, black, one-oared rowing boat drifts gently across the water, while its gondolier sings an entire repertoire of traditional Venetian folk songs. It goes without saying that the waters of the canals are not suitable for swimming, and their banks are often slippery. Be careful not to be so focused on your selfie stick that you walk into a canal because you might be in for some © PAOLA DALLA VALENTINA rather unpleasant surprises!
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM
Emergency POLICE T: 113 AMBULANCE T: 118 FIRE BRIGADE T: 115 TRAFFIC POLICE T: 041 2747070 LOST AND FOUND ON VAPORETTI T: 041 2722179 24-HOUR PHARMACY: check the display at
all pharmacies.
Airports INTERNATIONAL MARCO POLO DI TESSERA AIRPORT (VCE) - Venice’s Marco Polo Airport offers easy access to numerous destinations located in the Veneto region and in Northern Italy, the Canova di Treviso Airport (in Sant’Angelo) and main railway routes. The Marco Polo Airport is situated at a distance of 13 km from Venice (www.veniceairport.it). Trasportation from the Marco Polo Airport to the historic centre of Venice (and vice-versa): • Taxis (15 min. to Piazzale Roma, approximately €40); • water taxis (fast, private motorboats, approximately €80 ). This service is operative 24/24h (Consorzio Motoscafi Venezia www.motoscafivenezia.it. T: 041 5222303). • ATVO shuttle bus (20 min. to Piazzale Roma, €3, luggage included); • ACTV bus no. 5 (30 min. to Piazzale Roma with intermediate stops, €1, luggage excluded); • Alilaguna motorboats (a private service that uses ACTV’s network of docking stations with intermediate stops at strategic points throughout the city. Fares range from 8 to 27 euros). www. alilaguna.it. T: 041 2401701.
Trains
“SESTIERI”, THE DISTRICTS OF VENICE
FERROVIE DELLO STATO - Trenitalia Railway
Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com. Venice’s Railway Station (Santa Lucia) can be accessed from all main European and Italian cities. The Railway Station overlooks the lagoon and is located just steps from the stops of Venice’s main public transportation lines. E.g.: to reach St. Mark’s Square by vaporetto, take line 1 or 2. Estimated journey time from main Italian cities via high-speed trains, including Frecciarossa, Frecciabianca, Frecciargento, Italo, Thello, Eurocity:
Tourist Information
Santa Croce
Isola di San Michele
Cannaregio
San Polo Dorsoduro
Castello
San Marco
Giudecca
Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore
APT - Azienda di promozione Turistica Città
Metropolitana di Venezia (eng.turismovenezia. it/): Palazzetto Carmagnani, San Marco 2637. T: 041 5298711. VENEZIA UNICA - The official tourism website
of the City of Venice (www.veneziaunica.it)
Tourist Card VENEZIA UNICA CITY PASS is an all-in-one pass
that offers unlimited use of public transportation, admission to tourist attractions and cultural events in the city, plus a number of other useful services. You can purchase your card online and customize your Venezia Unica City Pass to suit your individual travel needs (www.veneziaunica.it/en) exchange vouchers. Open daily 9am-4pm. T: 392 6786628.
Cannaregio, like Castello, is the largest and most densely populated district of Venice. Its name probably derives from the expanse of reeds found in the swamps on which it was built. Castello takes its name from the castle of which traces still remain today. It extends around the Arsenale and includes the Gardens of the Biennale and the Riva degli Schiavoni. Dorsoduro is named after the compact sand dunes found in this area. It overlooks both the Grand Canal and the Giudecca Canal, along which the long promenade known as the Fondamenta delle Zattere stretches.
San Marco takes its name from the Basilica. This is the city’s main sestiere because it houses the palaces that once constituted the government of Venice until its fall. San Polo, which takes its name from the church of San Polo, is the geographic centre of Venice. It stretches from the highest part of the Rialto Bridge and is the place where the Rialto fish and vegetable market is held. Santa Croce takes its name from the ancient church of the same name which unfortunately was demolished under Napoleon’s rule. It includes the Stazione Marittima and the piazzale Roma terminal, a junction for train and road transport (buses, cars) and lagoon traffic (ferries, vaporetti or water buses).
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ESSENTIALS Special Tours CITYSIGHTSEEING VENICE HOP ON-HOP OFF Exclusive view on the city of Venice. www.venezia.city-sightseeing.it • Tickets 24h: adults 20€, children (5-15 years) 10€. • Tickets 48h: adults 27€, children (5-15years) 13€. Tickets available: on board at any boat stop, at the CitySightseeing Venice Visitor Center, on the "Sightseeing Experience" free App, on www.venezia.city-sightseeing.it. • Duration: 150 minutes (every 60 minutes) • Services: wheelchair welcome, free Wi-Fi, Free "Sightseeing Experience" App (for Apple and Android smartphones) with the City Sightseeing Tour Map always with you, walking tour available in 5 different languages, CitySightseeing Venice Visitor Center. • Eight Stops: Ferrovia Compartimentale Santa Lucia – Stazione Marittima (Cruise Terminal) – San Marco, in front of Giardinetti Reali – Lido S.M. Elisabetta, pontile ACTV – Murano, Yalos Murano Pontile Fornace Ferro – Zattere Incurabili – Stazione Marittima (Cruise Terminal) – Ferrovia Compartimentale Santa Lucia. • New CitySightseeing Venice Visitor Center (inside the main train station Venezia Santa Lucia,next to "Freccia Club Trenitalia": any kind of information on the service and on the city, maps and exchange vouchers. Open daily (from April to November): 8.30am-5.30pm. T: 392 6786628.
GETTING AROUND VENICE Because it is a relatively small, compact city (a 45-minute walk from North to South) whose main points of interest are situated just a short distance from each other, visiting Venice on foot is the ideal solution.
experience a view of Venice that is anything but pedestrian. They are used almost exclusively by tourists (and Venetians on their wedding days). TIP Before embarking, we suggest that you check official rates (approximately €80 for 45 minutes and €100 after 7pm). Agree on a price, time limit and singing in advance to avoid unexpected surcharges. Associazione dei Gondolieri T. 041 5285075. www. gondolavenezia.it
Vaporetti - An efficient network of water bus routes covers the entire city and includes transportation to the islands.The service is active 24/24h but runs less frequently between 9.30pm and 6am. Landing stages are located at central points around the city (including Piazzale Roma, Rialto, Piazza San Marco…) .
Traghetti (Ferries) - ‘Traghetti’ are gondolas that cross the Grand Canal in 8 points. ‘Traghetti’ rides cost just €2 for non-residents (for holders of City Pass Venezia Unica or ACTV passes, rides cost 0.70) and operate almost non-stop. Four ferry services operate in Venice.
Tickets - Although paper tickets are available at main embarkation points and from authorized resellers displaying the ACTV logo, electronic tickets can also be pre-purchased online. ACTV. Piazzale Roma. T: 041 2424. www actv.it. There are 6 different types of tickets, ranging from hourly tickets (€7.50 for a 75’ regular route) to a weekly pass (€60) for unlimited travel on almost all lines. TIP The boat trip from one bank of the Grand Canal to the other costs 50 cents (via ferry).You can pre-purchase reduced-price tickets from Venice Connected: www.veniceconnected.com. IMOB smart cards are available at all ACTV ticket offices. Although they allow you to save on official rates, they are only recommended for long-term visits. Gondolas - These traditional craft are among the best-known tourist attraction for those wishing to
Taxi - Water taxis with a cabin (private water taxis) are available for hire from 16 landing stages, including Lido Aeroporto Marco Polo, piazzale Roma, Ferrovia, Rialto and San Marco, or from your hotel. TIP Although private water taxis can be costly, they are the fastest and most practical means of getting around Venice. Ask your concierge. Car - The city can be accessed from the mainland by car, thanks to an elevated section (a 4km bridge, the longest in Italy, also known as the ‘Translagunare’), with limited parking options at garages in Piazzale Roma or on the Island of Tronchetto. Prices for 24-hour parking cost approximately €30 euro. TIP It’s advisable to travel to Mestre by car (24-hour parking costs approximately €15 euro) and then continue on to Venice by public transport.
PHOTO © SVIDA_WHEREITALIA
Gondolas, a tourist’s dream!
A hallmark symbol of Venice, who has never dreamt of riding on one of these marvels of craftsmanship, whose charms have withstood the test of time? The components (approximately 280) of these extraordinary craft still bear their almost fairytale-like names of the past: ‘sankòni’, ‘fiùboni’, ‘solarai’ and ‘maistre’... To name but a few.
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Tradition has it that each gondolier has his own gondola, custommade according to his weight and height. Among the most ancient boatyards (or 'squeri'), the most remarkable is perhaps that of Domenico Tramontin and Sons. Established in 1884, it was the supplier to the House of Savoy, the Prefecture and the Commune of Venice (Dorsoduro, 1542. www.tramontingondole.it). An interesting feature that you are bound to notice on a gondolier’s uniform is the logo. Its most recent version was created by the Style Department of Duca d’Aosta, a shop established in 1902 in the Rialto neighbourhood by Emilio Ceccato. The logo features St. Mark as the Winged Lion, holding an open book, a symbol of peace and strength, framed by two 'ferri' – the traditional iron gondola prow ornaments (also known in Venetian as 'fero da próva' or 'dolfin'). Bringing one home as a keepsake is neither easy (nor cheap!), but you can avoid this by purchasing a souvenir created ad hoc. Where? At Emilio Ceccato’s clothing and accessory store, the official supplier and technical sponsor of the Associazione Gondolieri di Venezia (The Gondolier’s Association of Venice) in San Polo 16/17 (T: 041 5222700) and in San Marco, 257 (T: 041 8478885). www.emilioceccato.com
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THE LIDO OF VENICE
Although the Lido is Venice’s beach, it is also much more. An island, a town with its own history and a nature reserve, it is also a jet-setters’ paradise, with luxury hotels and exclusive villas. In September, it becomes the world capital of cinema.
The Lido (meaning beach in Italian) is a separate island from Venice. Measuring less than 200 metres in depth in certain areas, it is a 12km stretch of sand, strategically positioned between the Lagoon and the open sea, only connected to the city and dry land by ‘vaporetti’ or ferry boats. The clear difference between the Lido and Venice is that the Lido has real streets, which means you get around by car. In mid-November, Rolls Royce’s, Cadillac’s and Bentleys abound at the entrances of grand hotels. However, today, it is considered chicer to access the Lido by boat or explore it on foot or by bicycle.
WHAT TO SEE - The nature reserve and wild sand dunes of the Alberoni, recognized and protected by the WWF since 1997, are the perfect place for a quick swim. The area comprises 160 hectares of land, including two kilometers of golden sand dunes that extend from Murazzi to the Alberoni dam, and a beautiful pine forest. For a natural beach experience, the Lido also offers several free beaches, like the sandy dunes of San Nicolò, the rocky outcrops of the Murazzi, or the beach known to the Venetians as ‘Bluemoon”.
LIKE A SCENE FROM A MOVIE One of the most memorable scenes from ‘Death in Venice’ (1971), the cinematographic masterpiece directed by Luchino Visconti, shot on the beach of the Lido in Venice. Photo © Mario Tursi, Archivio Storico del Cinema.
Among other attractions, the area is home to an exclusive golf club set against a stunning backdrop of umbrella pines and poplars. Founder of the famous automotive house and an avid fan of Venice, Henry Ford commissioned the course in 1926, when he discovered to his disappointment that there was nowhere else where he could play golf, a sport widely practiced in America, but not in Italy at that time.
WHERE TO GO - Moving to the other end of the island, we find Malamocco, a small, ancient town that offers visitors a mini experience of Venice with its canals, ‘campielli’ and ancient buildings. Also dating back to olden times, in a more northerly direction, is the settlement of San Nicolò, featuring a Benedictine complex built in the 11th century. WHAT TO DO - Don’t miss a walk, or even better, a bike ride along the Murazzi, the remains of ancient fortresses which are now used as a race track. Bicycles are provided by several of the island’s hotels. If you happen to be there at the right time, you will be treated to a breathtaking sunset. What’s more, you’ll also get a glimpse of a wilder, more untamed side of Venice, amidst the boats and fishermen searching for clams. One of the island’s rituals, that you should not miss is having a ‘spritz’: the Venetian cocktail or aperitivo par excellence. You won’t have any trouble finding one at any bar on the Gran Viale, the Lido’s promenade. If you’re not pressed for time you can catch a boat from the Gran Viale to Pellestrina (where you can eat fabulously fresh fish, or a sandwich with fried sardines), or travel to Chioggia, a second, smaller Venice that abounds in fabulous small restaurants.
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ISOLA SAN GIACOMO IN PALUDE
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Chiesa di San Michele in Isola
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Chiesa dei Santi Maria e Donato
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Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo
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Aeroporto Nicelli Venezia Lido
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Japan Pavilion
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United States Pavilion
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LE DE
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MEZZO CALLE
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ALBANESI DEI
CALLE
SBIACCA
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CALLE
CALLE
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LE DE
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CALLE
LL
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Parco delle Rimembranze
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CALLE
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San Giuseppe di Castello
Russia Pavilion
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CALLE
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AM
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TI
CALLE
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CALLE CORERA
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Basilica di San Pietro di Castello CALLE
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Vergini
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AN
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de le
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LE
San Francesco di Paola BALD
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CALLE
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LE
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FO
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DE
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Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore
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Santissimo Redentore
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del
AMEN
TANA
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SAN GI ACOM
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CAMPO
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FOND
DE LA
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M E N TA
DAM
La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale
CAMPO
ISOLA DI
GIUDECCA FONDA
VIDA
CASTELLO
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LA
DI
PONTE
PALLADA
SCUOLA
DEI
DE
Museo Storico Navale di Venezia
Punta della Dogana
Zitelle
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FONDAMENTA
FON
FONDAMENTA ARSENALOTTI
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CALLE DELA CREA
IA
CALLE
Giardino delle Vergini
Rio
San Martino
MOROSINA
FONDAMENTA
PIETRO
FEM
La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese
RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA
CALLE
SAN
'EU
La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale
Arsenale di Venezia
Arsenale di Venezia
PESTRIN
GRITTI CALLE
RUGA VECCHIA
NT
SCUOLA
DE CALLE
CROSERA
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Spirito Santo
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DE
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AM
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CALLE
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Moise
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San
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VALLARESSO
CALLE
CALLE
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SESTIERE
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CALLE
CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA
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San Gregorio
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Sant'Eufemia
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CALLE
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CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA
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CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO
San Giovanni Battista in Bragora
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SAN
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San Francesco della Vigna
FRANCESCO
SANTA GIUSTINA
CALLE DEI FURLANI
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S. Zaccaria (Pieta')
100 m
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
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SALIZADA
DEL
LARGA
CALLE
SEBASTIAN
FONDAMENTA
CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA
San Giovanni di Malta
CALLE TERAZZERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’
Santa Maria della Pietà VONI
S. Zaccaria (Danieli)
DEGLI
S. Marco (Vallaresso)
SALUTE
LAVRANERI
ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
ZON
DEGLI
CALLE
SAN
CALLE DEL PESTRIN
TERRÀ
CALLE
CALLE SAN LORENZO
CALLE LION
San Giorgio dei Greci
San Zaccaria
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O
SCHIAVONI RIVA
CALLE
VERONA
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CALLE BOSELLO
LA
MINELLI
RIO
CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA
San Lorenzo
CALLE DEL MAGAZEN
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Palazzo
DE
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ORSEOLO
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DEL
C.
CALLE
S. SAMUELE
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CALLE
TRONCHETTO
DEL NOVA ISOLA
FONDAMENTA
ra Scomenze De
MARITTIMO
Canale
PORTO
FONDAMENTA
F. CONDULMER
DIREZIONE
MARITTIMO
CERERIA LA
PORTO
DE C.
DEL CAFETIER
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DE L’OSMARIN FONDAMENTA
CAMPO SAN PROVOLO SOTO E CORTE NOVA
C.
Rio Del
FABBRI
FONDAMENTA
DEL
CAMPO DELLA SALUTE
Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute
CALLE DEL BASTION
FOND. VENIER DAI LEON
CALLE
DEI PRETI
CALLE
CALLE
GATE
ZORZI SALIZADA
C. PIANTON
R I VA
DRASI
a
CALLE
CAMPO SAN LORENZO
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CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO
DE LE
SPECHIERI
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RC
CALLE
DEI
CALLE
C. DE LE COLONNE
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LA
CALLE
DE
A N M
SALIZADA
DIREZIONE
LATERANO
SEVERO
CALLE
MARZARIA
REDIVO
CALLE GOLDONI
CALLE
Marittim
Santa Maria del Pianto
DE LE TOLE
FONDAMENTA GIOVANNI
CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO
BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO
SAN
FABBRI
C.
MANDOLA
AVVOCATI
TERÀ
RIELO
SPORCA CALLE PAZIENZE DE LE
LORENZO
FONDAMENTA
C. SAN
SCOAZZERA DE LA
LE PAZIENZE
SA
MEZO
GIUFFA
CASSELERIA
DEI
CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO
Palazzo Ducale
LO
Rio San Lorenzo
DE CALLE
RUGA
CALLE
PISCOPIA
CARBON
Salvador
LARGA
BARBARIA
SAN
CORTE NUOVA
San Giovanni Novo
MARCO
CANONICA DE LA
O
MO
FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO
LIO
DEL
CALLE
P U N TA S A B B I O N I
NOVE
Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto
CORTE TREVISAN
Palazzo Querini Stampalia
CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA
REMEDIO DEL
SAN
CALLE
RC
FONDAMENTA
SAN
San
RIO
CALLE
MAGAZZINI
San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti
Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo
Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo
CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO
FORNO
CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA
Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani
BANDE
CORTE FRUTARIOLI
CALLE
LARGA
PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI
Basilica di San Marco
MA
SAN
CALLE DEL FIGHER
CALLE
BALONI
CAPPELLO BIANCA CALLE
CALLE ERIZZO
SALIZADA
DE LE
ORBI
FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI
CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO
CALLE
DEI
CALLE
Rio
C.
AI
G. GALLINA
DEL
DE LE ERBE
CORTE DEL PRESTRIN
TASCA
CORTE DEL FORNO
C.DEI
CALLE
BEMBO
ZULIAN
CORTE TORRETTA
ZZA
REMER
CALLE
GRIMANI
CAVALLI
Stazione
LARGA
CALLE
O MUSSATO CALLE
San Giuliano
SAN
PIGNOLI
O DEL
CINQUE
CALLE
CALLE
CORNER
zera
DEI
LIO
COCCO
TOSCANA
CALLE
LUCATELLO
MARZARIA DEI
Museo Correr
LE VIGNOLE
FONDAMENTA
CORTE NOVA
CALLE GABRIELI
DRIO CALLE LE SCUOLE
CALLE
CALLE
LICINI
MEZO
C.
CORTE DELLE ANCORE
PIA
FONDAMENTA
ZATTERE
DE LA SACA
CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO
CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO
NOVE
BERLENDIS
CORTE CORTESE
CAMPIELLO STELLA
CAMPIELLO WIDMANN
CASTELLI
PIOMBO
D. PALLE
CAMPO DEL VOLTO
CORTE
RUBBI
DE
CORTE GRAGOLINA
Bacino Orseolo
Salute
Spirito Santo CALLE
DEI LAVRANERI
San Gerardo
BIAGIO
BOTERI
VARISCO
CALLE
SAN
C. LARGA
CORTE
CALLE
CAPITELLO
BALOTE
GALLO
CALLE
O
CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO
CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN
CALLE
MIRACOLI
GIAZZO
Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione
CAMPO
DE LA FAVA
CALICE
DEL
TAGIAPIERA
LE
GRAGOLINA LE COLONNE DE
CALLE CAMPO SAN GALLO
Ca' Giustinian
RI
Palazzo Genovese
PONTE
SACCA SAN
DEI
V O LT
CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA
WIDMANN
DEI
CALLE DEL C.MARTINENGO CALLE
GALIAZZO
C. DEL
SALVADOR
MARZARIA
CORTE C.DEL TRAMONTIN
C.DE
STRAZZE TERÀ RIO
CARRO
PRIMO RAMOCONTARINA CORTE
San Moisè
FONDAMENTE
LARGA
CAMPO DE LA CARITA’
LE D EL
DEL M ORA
C O RT E B ATA G I A
RIO
Teatro Malibran
CALLE
DE
SAN
DELLE
SAN
DEL CALLE
CORTE BAROZZI
Santa Maria dei Miracoli
SAN CANZIAN
CAMPO
C. DEL
SABION
C.
C.
FRUTARIOL
DEL
CAMPO SAN MOISE’
CASTELLO
CALLE
MADONA
CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO
FREZZERIA
MOISE’
SA PISCINA
XXII MARZO
SESTIERE
ORESI
DE LA
FORNO
RAMO
DEL
DIETRO
RAMO
S.Canciano CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA
DEI
PARANGON
CALLE
DOLERA
C. DE
RIO TERA’
L' ARZERE
GUARDIANI
DE
TODESCHI
CALLE
CANAL RIO TERA’
C. DEI
LARGA
CAMPIELLO CONTARINI
VENEZIA
CALLE
CAL
FRUTARIOL
CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO
CALLE
CALLE
Palazzo Pisani Gritti
Collezione Peggy Guggenheim
DEL FORNO
CALLE DEL NAVARO
FONDAMENTA
VENIER
BARBA
CAMPIELLO VALMARANA
CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO
CORTE DEL
MARZARIA
San Salvador
MAGAZEN
DEL
CALLE
DE
X
SALIZADA
MAZZINI CORTE
LUCA SAN CALLE
CALLE
PISCINA
LA CHIESA
DRIO
CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION
FONTEGO
SAN LIO
LARGA
SAN SALVADOR
TEATRO DEL CALLE
LOCANDE
CALLE
CORTE
MICHIEL
CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO
Santa Maria del Giglio
CHIESA
SALIZADA
SPIRITO
CALLE
CORTE DEL REMER
RUGA
CALLE
CALLE
VOLTI
GALIZZI
ROSSA
nde Canal Gra
FONDAMENTA
RAGUSEI
FONDAMENTA
CROSERA
CALLE
CALLE
TRAGHETTO
VAPORETTO
CALLE
STURION
DEL
ALLO
ZEN
SARTORI
TERÀ
CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON
C. DEL
SALIZZADA PIO
CALLE
TEATRO
CALLE ASSASSINI
San Fantin
Maria del Giglio
Casa di Marco Polo
Fontego dei Tedeschi
Ponte di Rialto Rialto
CORTE DEL
Palazzo Nervi Scattolin
PATERNIN
MANDOLA
TERÀ
RIO
Teatro la Fenice
DELLA
CAPPUZZI
ZATTERE
CAMPO DEI GESUITI
FONDAMENTA
FOND.
RIO
SALIZADA
CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO
San Giacomo di Rialto
CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO
Teatro Carlo Goldoni
CAMPO MANIN SAN CALLE CALLE
CAFETIER
CAOTORTA
Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda
CALLE
CALLE
FONDAMENTA
SANTO
DEL
CATERINA
San Giovanni Grisostomo
CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA
Rialto (Palazzo Cavalli)
CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA
TEATRO
MARCO
DEL
CALLE
CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI
San MaurizioSanta
Canal Grande
CAMPO DI SAN VIO
CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE
SANTA
PRIULI
NOVA
PESCARIA
Fontego Palazzo Rava Dolfin Manin
S.Silvestro
DEL
CALLE
CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO
Santo Stefano
C.SANT'AGNESE
NANI
AI GESUATI
Giudecca Hilton
Chiesa dei Gesuiti
CAMPO DELLA
RAVANO
San Silvestro
CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO
CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA
Palazzo Grimani
San Beneto San Luca
SAN BOTEGHE
CAMPO PISANI
CATENE
S.ANDREA
FONDAMENTA
Santa Sofia
STRADA
FABBRICHE
DEL
RUGHETA
DEI
CALLE
CAZZIOLA
TRAGHETTO
DEL PISTOR
CALLE
Zattere
NOVE
CALLE
FONDAMENTA
FOND.
CAMPO DE LE ERBE
STUA
BECARIE
DEL SOL
DEL
DEL
CALLE
ZATTERE
CALLE
LA
CAMPO DE LA
CAMPIELLO DEL SANSONI
CAMPIELLO
CALLE
CAMPO SAN BENETO CALLE
LE
CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO
Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione FONDAMENTA
FONDAMENTE
Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana
MUTI
CAMPO SAN APONAL
LE
CA’
BOTA
Sant’Aponal DEL
DE
LA
CARAMPANE
de r an
NARISI FOND.
DE
CAMPO SANTO STEFANO
San Vidal CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL
San Trovaso CAMPO SAN TROVASO
DEL
San Felice
LE
Palazzo Fortuny
CORTE DELL’ALBERO
CROSERA
FALIER
BONLINI
TRAPOLIN
VENDRAMIN
CALLE
DE
CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI
DI SAN MARCO
SAMUELE
Palazzo Loredan
CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ
LONGO
IA
CA'
DE DE
CARAMPANE
TERÀ
PERDON
CARROZZE
al G
SESTIERE
S. SALIZADA
LE
Abazia della Misericordia D
R
San Cassiano CALLE CALLE
RIO
CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI
Can Sant'Angelo
VECCHIA
LEZZE
FONDAMENTA
O
DE
Santa Fosca
CAMPO SAN CASSAN
L’AGNELLA
Palazzo Querini-Dubois
CA’ CORTE
DE
CALLE
S. Samuele
CALLE
OGNISANTI
IC
d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro
TIOZZI
DE
CORTE DEL TEATRO
CAMPO SAN POLO
CALLE
FONDAMENTA
DE
ER
C.
Rio Nuovo
FOND.
IS
NA
DEI
C.
SCALETER
CALLE RAMO
PONTE
M
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
CORTE DEL TIOZZI
DE
DEL
Palazzo Giustinian Persico S. Toma' SX
Palazzo Grassi San Samuele
Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia
BEATE GIULIANA
SACCA
FISOLA
LARGA
TA
S.Stae
CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI
CALLE CA’BONVINCINI
BOLDO
C.
EN
TRON
SAN
San Tomà
Ca' Rezzonico
Accademia
ZATTERE AL
CALLE CHIESA
CONTARINI
dell'Orto
AM
MORETTI
C.
Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo
CAMPO SAN TOMÀ
Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo
CAMPO DEI SQUELINI CALLE BERNARDO
FODAMENTA
S. Basilio
DELLA
D
San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale
CALLE
DEL
TENTOR
MEZO
CAMPO
ZANE
CROSERA
Ca' Rezzonico
Giudecca Hilton FONDAMENTO CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO
CALLE
N
CALLE
TABACCHI
Bacino
C.
DE
SAN BOLDO
CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO
Madonna
MORI
FONDAMENTA
SAN POLO
CAMPO DEI FRARI
CALLE
San Barnaba
DEI
CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE
L
CALLE
NUOVA
PRETI
L’ASEO
NA
CAMPO SAN STIN
TOMÀ
CAMPO SAN ROCCO
DE
CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA
CA
DONZELA
CALLE
TINTORETTO
DEI
CALLE
FOMO
DE OGNISANTI
LE
ALE
LA
SAN
CALLE
CALLE
CAMPO SAN PANTALON
RENIER
DEL
A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA
Chiesa di Ognissanti
FONDAMENTA
NIE
DD
DE
PAPADOPOLI
TERÀ
Basilica dei Frari
San Rocco
Muneghete
CALLE
CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA
INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON
.DA
MA
Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni
CALLE
CALLE
RIO
CALLE
CALLE DEL MAGAZEN
le
PANTALON
San Pantalon
NUOVO
LA
La Maddalena
Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale
L’ISOLA
OCHE CALLE
OCHE
LATTE
LACA
FONDARIA
CIMESIN
de
BASEGO
RIO
CAMPO DEI CARMINI
À D E
SOTOPORTEGO
LA
CALLE DE LA LACA
LA
RAMO
CIMESIN
SAN
CALLE
Carmini
Santa Maria dei Carmini
FO de Servi N
TER
C.
TOLENTINI
FONDAMENTA
DEI
DE
CALLE DELL'OLIO
FON.
Canale
DE
DE LA VIDA
C.VENZATO
LA
CALLE
C. CAMPAZZO DE
CALLE
Rio
SALIZADA
del
CALLE DE LA CHIESA
CAMPO SAN BESAGIO
100 m
TERA’
RAMO
CALLE ORSETTI
DE
TINTOR
BESAGIO
Misericordia
FO
RIO DIETRO TERÀ LA CHIESA
CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’
DEL
SALIZADA
della
Rio
San Giacomo dall'Orio CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO CALLE
DEI
LIBERTÀ
VECCHIO BERGAMASCHI
SIMEONE LUNA
MINOTTO
Magazen
CALLE
Rio
DORSODURO
San Sebastiano SAN
CALLE CAZZA
FONDAMENTA
CANAL
LA
DEI AMAI
RAMO
Del
Rio dei Tolentini
FONDAMENTA
CALLE CONTARINA
BRIATI
CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO
CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN
RUGA BELA
BARI
DELLA
SAN
TRAGHETTO CALLE
CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL
CALLE SAVIO
RUGA VECCHIA
CAMPO
DEI
Angelo Raffaele
DORSODURO
Rio
CALLE
C.
NUOVA
CERERI
FONDAMENTA
LARDONI
Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola RIO
LARGA
PONTE PROCURATIE
DEI
CALLE
IA
CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA
DEL REMER
BIASIO
DI
BARI
C.
CALLE
LUNGA
Scomen
CALLE
RIZZI FONDAMENTA
FONDAMENTA
DE L’OGIO
RD
R
VECCHIO
RIVA
LISTA
San Simeone Profeta
Soranzo Cappello
DE CAMPO
San Nicola da Tolentino
Rio
PENSIERI
DEI FONTEGHERI
CALLE
I CALLE ORSETT
DEI
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
ICO
NOVA
MISERICORDIA
SANT'ANDREA
FONDAMENTA
TERÀ
MADONA
SAN MICHELE
FONDAMENTA
della
CAMPO FONDAMENTA DEI MORI
ER
San Marcuola
CAMPIELLO
nde l Gra Cana Riva de Biaso
CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO
NAZARIO Palazzo FONDAMENTA SAURO Soranzo Capello GARZOTTI
Giardino di Palazzo
CASE CORTE
CALLE
C. LAVADORI TERÀ
TABACCHI
RIO
LA
MIS
RIO
NUOVE
CROCE
Giardino Papadopoli
PIAZZALE ROMA RIO
FABBRICA FONDAMENTA
DE
TA
E DEL PISTO
MUNEGHE
LA
CROCE
CALLE
CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI
EN
STRADA
DE
SPAGNA
FONDAMENTA
Ferrovia
CORTE
Sant'Andrea
SANT'ANDREA
NICOLO’ SAN
San Nicolò dei Mendicoli
CALLE
AM
CALL
San Leonardo
San Geremia DI LISTA TERÀ RIO
SCALZI
DEI Ponte degli Scalzi
FONDAMENTA
San Simeon Piccolo
Ferrovia
Ferrovia
LA FO.
TERÀ
MARTA
Istituto Universitario Di Architettura
CALLE SAN BASILIO
ND
I
EONARDO
SAN LEONARDO
CALLE TRAGHETTO
CALLE
CAVALLETTI
Santa Maria di Nazareth
P.le Roma
Ponte della Costituzione
RIO
People Mover Venezia
SANTA FONDAMENTA
MATTA DI CA’
CALLE CASE NUOVE
Madonna dell'Orto
MADONNA
A
Rio
LER
NA
AI
People Mover Venezia
S A N TA
CAMPIELLO LONGHI
CALLE
AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO
NS
DELL'ORTO
S. L R I O T E R À CAMPO
CAMPO SAN GEREMIA
PRIULI
Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia
ITTICO MERCATO DIREZIONE
SE
FO
ER LE P
SE
TRONCHETTO
CAMPIELLO P I AV E
FONDAMENTA
TA
Museo Ebraico CAL
A E M
CALLE
DEL
EN
CANNAREGIO
CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO
LL
NOVA
AM
San Girolamo
CA
ISOLA
TRONCHETTO
Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo
Sant'Alvise
CAMPO S A N T ' A LV I S E
ND
INE
DEL
ZZ
CALLE
PU
SAVORGNAN
MATTIA
CA
PISCINA
LE
FO
LE
O
SAN
DE
AM
L’ARCO
TA
OL
CALLE
EN
DE
AM
N G IR
SAN
ND
SA
Palazzo Nani FONDAMENTA
VECCHIA
TA
LLO
RUGA
FO
EN
TE
Palazzo Labia Parco Savorgnan Salone del Tiepolo
DA PONTE
AM
B AT
DOGE
ND
TA
CALLE
FORNER
EN
CAMPIELLO TRAGHETTO
DEL
AM
SEBASTIANO
CALLE
FO
ND
CANNAREGIO
di Cannaregio
CAMPO SAFFA
Parcheggio Bus Turistici
VENEZIA
di Sant'Alvise
Sensa
COLETTI
Canale
GIOBBE
People Mover Venezia
della
CARLO
FO
FONDAMENTA
SAN
San Giobbe
BRAGADIN
NUOVE
Rio
Rio
FOND.A
Ponte dei Tre Archi
FONDAMENTA
VENIER FONDAMENTA
PENITENTI
CANNAREGIO
DEL SABION
LARGA
FONDAMENTA
CAMPIELLO DEL SCARLATTO
CALLE
Monastero "Villa Groggia" Carmelitane Scalze
ROLAMO SACCA SAN GI
CALLE
Santa Maria delle Penitenti
CAMPIELLO DE LA LAVANDER
FONDAMENTA
F O N D A M E N TA
TA’
CORTE
ER
SANT'AGNESE
B
LA
Parco
LI
BRAGADIN
LA
PISCINA
EL
NUOVA ISOLA DEL TRONCHETTO
ISOLA DELLE TRESSE
FAUSTA
Chiesa di San Michele in Isola
D
FONDAMENTA
LE
INCURABILI
A
CALLE ZUCCHERO
VI
C A
FR
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VI
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S. Servolo
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VI
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Monastero Armeno Mechitarista
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Palazzo del cinema del Lido di Venezia VI
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5 STAR DELUXE (L) & 5 STAR Aman Canal Grande Venice Resort Hotel – San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo Baiamonte) • E4 Baglioni Hotel Luna – San Marco, 1243 • F5 Bauer Palazzo (L) – San Marco, 1459 • F5 Belmond Hotel Cipriani (L) – Giudecca, 10 • F6 Boscolo Venezia – Cannaregio, 3500 (Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto) • E2 Ca’ Sagredo (L) – Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99 • E3 Excelsior Venice (L) – Lungomare Marconi, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa (L) – Isola delle Rose – (Laguna di San Marco) • Off Map Hilton Molino Stucky (L) – Giudecca, 810 • C6 Londra Palace – Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4 Metropole – Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149 • G4 Palazzina G – San Marco, 3247 • D4 Palazzo Venart – S. Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron) • E3 Palladio Hotel & SPA – Giudecca, 33 • F5 San Clemente Palace Kempinski (L) – Isola di San Clemente, 1 • Off Map SINA Centurion Palace – Dorsoduro, 173 • F5 4 STAR & LUXURY RESIDENCES A La Commedia – San Marco, 4596 • E4 Ai Mori d’Oriente – Cannaregio, 3319 (Fondamenta Sensa) • E2 Best Western Biasutti Hotel – Via Dandolo, 29 – (Lido) • Off Map Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4488 (Calle Goldoni) • F4 Bucintoro – Castello, 2135/a • H5 Ca Maria Adele – Dorsoduro, 111 • E5 Carlton On The Grand Canal – Santa Croce 578 • C3 Cavalletto & Doge Orselo – San Marco, 1107 (Sotoportego del Cavalletto) • F4 Colombina – Castello, 4416 (Calle del Remedio) • F4 Concordia – San Marco, 367 (Calle Larga San Marco) • F4 Continental – Cannaregio, 166 (Rio Terà Lista di Spagna) • D3 Duodo Palace – San Marco, 1887/1888 (Calle Minelli) • D3 Foscari Palace – Cannaregio, 4200/1/2 (Campo Santa Sofia) • E3 Le Boulevard – Granviale S. Maria Elisabetta, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map Liassidi Palace – Castello, 3405 (Ponte dei Greci) • G4 L’Orologio Venezia – San Polo, 1777 (Riva del l’Ogio) • E3 NH Collection Palazzo Barocci –San Marco, 3878/A (Corte dell’Albero) • E4
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