Where Venice n 26 October 2018 by Welcome Smart Network

VENICE CITY GUIDE Â®

OCTOBER 2018

W W W.WHEREITALIA.COM/ VENICE

Autumn Lights

This season's most unmissable sights

TINTORETTO 500

Two exhibitions pay tribute to the great Renaissance master

ITALIAN-STYLE GIFT GUIDE Our pick of the best seasonal trends

ADV NOVENTA

Venice October 2018 12

FOCUS

the guide

SHOPPING Freywille

18 SHOPPING

Freywille's enamelled jewellery meets the allure of Venice, creating the ideal souvenir of your trip.

BAGARON C A M PA LT O

MESTRE

32 DINING

Aromi, the main restaurant at the Hilton Molino Stucky, seduces diners with the flavours of Italian cuisine re-interpreted with the creative flair of Executive Chef Ivan Catenacci

DINING

Parco San Giuliano

ISOLA DI TES

36 SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS

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CALL E

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CALL

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CALLE

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TAR

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LEONARD O

LA SACRESTIA

C. CORONA

CALLE RIMPETTO

ALBANESI CALLE DEL

CALLE DE LE RASSE

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VOLT

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DEL

CAL

SAN T’AN TON IO

CAL LE

ZULIAN

BALBI CALLE

PISCIN A SAN

BAL OTE LE DE CAL LE

CAL

BAN DI CAL LE

S. Zaccaria (

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

SALUTE

Punta della Dogana

CATECUMENI

TE ZAT

Chiesa San Giorgio M

S. Giorgio

CALLE DELA CREA

Spirito Santo

NTA ZATTERE

Spirito Santo CALLE

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BRAG

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BILI

FOND

AMEN

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DAM

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CALLE

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FOR DEL LE CAL

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CALLE VERRO DEL CCHIO

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DON

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MAT RUG

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RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO

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CALLE DEL NAVARO

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CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

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VER LLE

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L’ANZ OLO CALL E DE

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VENIER PISCINA

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Ca' Giustinian

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CAMPO DELLA SALUTE

TERRÀ

GNESE

SAN LE

CAL

CAMPIELLO TRAGHETTO

DA PONTE DOGE DEL

CALLE DEL BASTION

ADIN

SOF IA

CAL

LA DE LE

CAL STU A

LA DE

FON DAM ENTA

CALLE

TTI NTOFFE SANGIA MENTA FONDA

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DEGLI

Salute

RIO

SANT'A

SAN TA

CAM PO

IEL

CAL

PAN CAM LE

REG

DEL

INA

GIU STIN IAN

EUF EMI A BEA TA CAL LE

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NANI

CAR

lla O DE L’A M BAZIA iser icor dia

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TRA GHE TO

DEL

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LIZ

DO ON SEC

CRI STO

TER

DEL CAL LE

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ALBA

LIPO TA E STRE CALL

DURO RE DORSO

SESTIE

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Rio

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IO MEG E DEL CALL

STA

FOR

N SA

DEL

CAL

LIZ SA

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A’ HIVIO

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E DEI CALL

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BINA

CALLE

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CALLE

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RIO

MEZ

CALLE

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Moise

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I MARTIR

San

RIDOTTO

ESSO

TREDIC

Rio

CALLE

VONI SCHIA

VALLAR

CALLE

EREMIT

CALLE

MENTA

SIONE

DEI CORTELL

Palazzo Ducale

ASCEN

Palazzo Genovese

FONDAMENTA

VAPOR

LARGA

DEL TRAGHETTO

DEL

Museo Correr

Palazzo Pisani Gritti

Santa Maria del Giglio

DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO

CALLE

C. PIA

CALLE

FONDA

CAMPIELLO DEL LIBRER

LO EL RI E LL CA

I IN ZZ

ze ra

ETTI,

TE LE

MIN CA L DE LLE CA

SA PE E CA

A CI LU NT A SA TA

De e al an C O TIM

RIT

ZIO

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

Palazz

CALLE DEL FIGHER

FONDAMENTA DEL VIN

CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO

Basilica di San Marco

LE CAL

CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO

San Giovanni No

DEL

MARCO

CANONI DE LA

Rio Del

CORTE NUOVA

A GIUFF

Palazzo Querini Stampalia

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

EDIO REM

SAN

Santa Maria Formosa Pala Grim

BANDE

CORTE FRUTARIOLI

RUGA

ETT

DE LE

ORBI

EOL

ALL CAV

ORS

San Moisè

CORTE TREVISAN

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

CALLE

LE CAL

LARGA

CALLE

I BALON

O PELL CAP

SAN

Osped

Basili Santi Giova

FORNO

E DEI

GIO ROLO DELL’O

CA E BIAN CALL

ZZA

CALL

CA TAS

I HIER SPEC

IA DAR SPA

DEL

A ENT

SARTOR

CALLE DEL PESTRIN CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

C.DEI

PIA

CAMPO SAN MOISE’

CORTE BAROZZI

CORTE

CALLE

CORTE TORRETTA

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

Bacino Orseolo

CARRO

PRIMO INA RAMOCONTAR CORTE

E’

O SAT MUS

DEL FORNO

RIO

DAM

IOL

LE CAL

San Giuliano

OLINA GRAG LE COLONNE DE

BRI FAB

MOIS

LICINI

ARIA MARZ

CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

DEL

E DEI CALL

E C.

TER

LO GAL SAN E CALL CAMPO SAN GALLO

FON

C. DEL

CORTE

LUCATE LLO MAR ZAR IA DEI SAN PIGN ZUL OLI IAN

DEI

PISCI

LIO

C. LARGA

RUBBI

MEZ O

CALLE GABRI ELI

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

ERIA SEL CAS

AZZ

CALLE

XXII MARZO

SAN

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

LE CAL

C. DE LE COLONNE

CORTE NOVA

DE LE ERBE

LIO

IVO RED

CALLE GOLDONI

LE CAL

VERO

LARGA

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

DE LA FAVA

CORTE

CAL LE

RLE ND

CALLE

CALLE DEL C.MAR PIOMB TINEN O GO D. PALLE

GIAZZO

CAP

IAPIE RA BALO TE

G. GALLIN

SAN

BRI FAB

MINELL

CALLE

CASTEL

DEI

CORTE

MICHIEL

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

CALLE

CAMPO CALICE

ITELL O CORTE C.DE TRAMONTIN L TAG

LLE

LARGA

CALLE

ERI

CORTE CORTESE

DRIO CALLE LE SCUOL

CALLE

IZA

LE CAL

do DEL

STR

ERIA

DEL

CORTE GRAGOLINA

FRUTAR

DEL

FREZZ

PISCIN

LA CHIESA

Teatro la Fenice

Santa Maria del Giglio

GALIAZ ZO

C. DEL

SALVAD OR

MAR ZARI A DEL

lva

CALLE

A DE

SAN

C.DE

ONA

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

C. DEL

SABION

ASSA TERÀ

CALLE

CORTE DEL

MARZA RIA

BOT

CAMPIELLO STELLA

MAN

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

I MIR

Teatro Malibran

San Salvador n

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

DRIO

CAMPO SAN LIO

ZEN MAGA

DEL

CALLE

SSIN

SAN

DEI

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

OPIA PISC

BON CAR

A LUC LE CAL

FO GA

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

WID

RIO

SALIZA

MAZ ZINI

CORTE

DEL

NDE LOCA

CALLE

Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

LAR

VAR ISCO

S.Canciano

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

CANZIAN A SAN

FONTEG

PIO

Rio

DEL

RO TEAT LE CAL

San Fantin

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN

CAL LE

C O RT E B ATA G I A

SAL

BO BEM

TEATRO

Palazzo Nervi Scattolin

OLA MAND

CORTE DEL

CAMPO MANIN

RNIN PATE

LARG A

SAN SALVADOR

LE CAL

E CALL

PIC

SIM SAN ENT A DAM FON

Sco

TIM RIT MA O RT PO NE ZIO

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

REMER

SALI ZZA DA

MARCO

ETIE

CAL

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

O DEL

RAMO

RIOL

QUE

CIN

FRUTA

COCCO

DEI

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

Rialto

VER

CAF

CAL

BARBA

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

C. DEL

CAN

ritt

TOS

Chiesa dei Gesuiti

E VOLT

E VENIE

CALLE

TERÀ

San Giovanni Grisostomo

cin

CAL

DOL

CALL

SARTORI

ETTI MOR

RIO

SAN

RTA

CHIES

DEL FORNO

ZEN

Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto

ORE

ANG

LLI CAVA

DEL

DELLA

SALIZADA

DEI

PAR

E CALL

NER COR

CALL

CALLE

UZZI

CATEN

CAMPO DEI GESUITI

ENTA

CORTE DEL REMER

RIO

E CALL

CAL

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim

CALLE CAPP

E CALL

CAOTO

Canal Grande

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

NANI

ULI

San Giacomo di Rialto

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

GNES

DAM

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

RIO

CALLE

NT'A

CALL

SALIZAD

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

San Maurizio

CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

C.SA

TEA TR O

CALLE

CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia

PRI

CAL LE

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

DEL PISTOR

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

STU

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

CALLE

ENT A

Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)

Palazzo Grimani

SAN

CAMPO PISANI

RINA

REA

RUG

San Beneto San Luca

BOT EGH E

IER

. S.AND

DAM

San Silvestro

nde

Santo Stefano

San Vidal

DEL

. NARI

CATE

FOND.

Santa Sofia

CAL

taz io

CAL

LA DE E LL CA

CALLE

FON

FOND

FON

CAL

FAL

Zattere

Giudecca Hilton

DEI LAVRANE

w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 1

Giudecca Hilton

LARGA

FOND

CRO SER A

E AI GESUA TI

FONDAMENT O BEATE GIULIANA CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO

CALLE

CAL

RAVA

DEL

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

Gra

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

E UEL SAM

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

CAL

ZATTER

CHIESA

ENTA

SAN

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

DE L

Palazzo Loredan

MENTA

DELLA

S. Samuele

Ca' Rezzonico

FONDA

CALLE

ETA

RUGH

TI OCA

CAMPO SAN TROVASO

CAMPIELLO DEL SOL

Sant’Aponal DEL

MAN

LINI

CAM DEL PIEL SAN LO SON I

AMP ANE

ENTA

CAR

AVV

LON

MUT I

TER

DA IZA SAL

DAM

CAMPO DELLA PESCARIA

CAMPO SAN BENETO CA LLE

CAL LE CA’ VEC CHI CORT A E LEZZE

Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione

SACCA

Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana

RIO

PON

CA’

CAL

E AL

BOT A

Palazzo Fortuny

SESTIERE

Palazzo Grassi San Samuele OZZE CARR

STU A

S.Silvestro

DI SAN MARCO

FON

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

CAMPO DE LA BECARIE

TER

ANI GRIM

DAM

BON

ZAT

DEL

E CALL

FON

NTA

AME

San Trovaso

Sant'Angelo

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

Ca' Rezzonico

GALIZ

Palazzo Giustinian Persico

S. Toma' SX

DEI

SANT

CARAMPANE À

al Can

RAMO

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

E DE CALL

OGNI

TER

LE CAL

San Tomà

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI

ZEL

. DE

CAL LE DE

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

Palazzo Querini-Dubois

DON

FOD S. Basilio

FOND

CAMPO APONAL

CHI TODES

DON SAN PER

C. DEI

DE OGNISAN

RIO

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

LE SAMUE

ENTA

CORTE DEL TEATRO

CAL LE

RIN PEST

FONDAM

L’AG NEL LA

Accademia

Chiesa di Ognissanti

CALLE DE LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN BESAGIO

SCA

SERA

FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN

CAMPO SAN POLO

DEI PUTI

IAN

BESAG

A S. PISCIN

AST

DA SAN

DEL

CALLE

SEB

SALIZA

DORSODURO

DE INC INI

LET

A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA

CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN

San Sebastiano

CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI

INI

Abazia della Misericordia D

San Cassiano CAMPO SAN CASSAN

CA’BCAL ONVLE

E CRO

SPORCAE CALLE PAZIENZ DE LE

SAN

CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL

A ENT

DAM

DON

CALLE SAN BASILIO

E DEL CALL

SCOAZZERA DE LA E

LE PAZIENZ

FON

LAR

AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO

TIOZ

CAMPO SAN TOMÀ

San Barnaba

DEI

SAN POLO

CALLE BERNARDO

INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON

Santa Maria dei Carmini

' VE

CAL

SAN

CALL

C. DE

DIA

RIO TERA’

Santa Fosca

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

HETT

Istituto Universitario Di Architettura

CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO

CAMPO DEI FRARI

San Felice

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro

TRAG

LLE

Angelo Raffaele

L’ASE

CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA

CANAL RIO TERA’

RIELO

LORENZ

CAL

E DEL

E DE

SSA

C. SAN

’

CALL

FOMO

CAMPO DEI CARMINI

S.Stae

E ZANE

nde Canal Gra

OLO

NTA

L' ARZE

CALLE CASE NUOVE

Car

CALL

USE

TA DE

NIC

SAN

San Nicolò dei Mendicoli

CAL

del

FORNO

SER

E RENIE

DEL

CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA

min

Rio

DEL

CRO

ERA

MADONA

CAL

E TRON

BOL

TTO

AMEN

MATTA DI CA’

IAT

CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO

CALL

TTO

CAMPO SAN STIN

ORE

PRET

CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE

CALLE

TINT

E DEI

CAL LE

DE LA

ALE

E DOL

CAL

TALO

E C A

Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

CAL

GHE

CALL

CALLE

RAG

FOND

CAMPIELLO LONGHI

CALLE

NT AR

San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale

CALL

TOMÀ

Basilica dei Frari

San Rocco

CAMPO SAN PANTALON

CALLE CONTARINA

HE BRIC FAB

OCHE

TRA

MEZ

DEL

CERER

DE L’OGIO

a de

rto

DEI

FON

MENTA

DEI FONTEGH

CALLE

ll'O

SAN

TERÀ

CALL

PAN

FONDA

ERI

CALLE

RIO

RAMO

NUOVO

CAL

MADON

LE CAL

E LE

CALL

CAL

TA PROC

A A MART SANT

LA TT

À D E

La Maddalena

CAMPO SAN BOLDO

OCH

C.VE

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

CAZZIO

AMEN

CALLE

lla

LAC

San Pantalon

o de

GO RTE OPO SOT

CALLE ORSETTI

NZAT

FO de Serv N.D AN i IEL

TER

VECCHIO

tini

RIO

DE LA VIDA

CAL

FON IA

ESI

A SAN

Rio dei Tolen MENTA

RAMO

CALLE DELL'OLIO

MENTA

FOND

Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

San Giacomo dall'Orio CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO

Where® highlights some culinary destinations to whet your appetite at several top hotels in Venice. D O R S O D U R O URATI

icordi

CAMPO SAN ROCCO IZAD

Miser

CIM

ete

SAL

DAR O

CALL

FONDA

CALLE CAZZA

CALLE SAVIO

RUGA BELA

TOR

TIN

BASEG

della

L’ISOLA

DEL

CALLE DE LA LACA

RAM

CIM

OTT

gaz

CALLE

TERA’

CAL

CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

RUGA VECCHIA

E DEL PISTO

DIETRRIO TERÀ O LA CHIE

Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola

CAM

LE CAL

ESI

ENT A MIN

CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA

CAMPO NAZARIO SAURO

BAR

DEI

SIM

CAL

PAZ

Rio

Del

Rio

San Marcuola

DAM

ICO

RIO

DEL REMER

BIAS

BAR

N LUN

DEI AMAI

Madonna dell'Orto

'ORT

CAMPO FON DAM D E I M O R I ENT A DEI MOR I

Rio

CALL

CAMPIELLO

LAR

SA LA

EONARDO

San Leonardo

A OV DE

MIS

A RIVA

LIS

NU PO

SAN LEONARDO

I CALLE ORSETT

LLE

RAM

FONDA

TA RIZZI

ENT

CAM

Rio

S. L R I O T E R À CAMPO

RIO

AMEN

DAM

Palazzo FO Soranzo NDAMEN Capello TA GA

San Nicola da Tolentino

IERI

FOND

E NUO

San Simeone Profeta

Rio Nuov

ACC

CHI

PENS

CAS

CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO

TAB

DEI

RTE

LE P

nde l Gra Cana

'ANDR

VA TABAC

HIO

SANT

NUO

RESTAURANTS

ICA

TERÀ

CALLE

C. LAVADOR

FON

TA FABBR

RIO

AMEN

PIAZZALE ROMA

CAL FOND

TRONCHETTO

. LA

Giardino Papadopoli

PAPADOPOLI

CROCE

Soranzo Cappello

'AN

AG SP

Giardino di Palazzo

NTIN

TOLE

Sant'Andrea

FONDAMENTA

35 TOP HOTEL

. DEI

TER

People Mover Venezia

Ferrovia

FON

RIO

S A N TA

DE Ponte degli Scalzi

Ponte della Costituzione

RÀ

A ST

Ferrovia

Riva de Biaso

San Simeon Piccolo

Ferrovia

P.le Roma

FON

People Mover Venezia

CAL

San Geremia

O ITTI

CAT

A DELL

I SC

MER

ALZ

ONN

MAD

CALLE TRAGHETTO

Santa Maria di Nazareth

ER ERL

A E M

EZIO

Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia

DIR

Parcheggio Bus Turistici

Loved by tourists, the island is famous for its colourful houses and handcrafted lace.

CAMPO SAN GEREMIA

Palazzo Labia Parco Savorgnan Salone del Tiepolo

ENTA

» MAP PAGES 46-47 FO

CAMPO SAFFA

DAM

Museo Ebraico

Palazzo Nani

People Mover Venezia

DAM

RTI

CAMPIELLO P I AV E

FON

CANNAREGIO

CanaENTA CAN le di NAR Cann EGI O aregio

GIO

CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO

NVE

Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo

CAL LE

FON

INE

LL VE E CC GH HI ET O TO

LLO

San Giobbe

THROUGH BURANO LA

San Girolamo TE

NUOVA ISOLA DEL TRONCHETTO ISO

ORB I

AR CC BE LE

30 STROLLING

Ponte dei Tre Archi

CAMPIELLO DEL SCARLATTO

CAMPIELLO DE LA LAVANDER

N G IR

DEI

B AT

MUN EGH E

CAL LE

STIAN

ADIN

R SEBA

la Sen

BRAG

Sant'Alvise

CAMPO S A N T ' A LV I S E

ise

del

TTI

Rio O COLE

VENIE

di Sa

nt'Alv

.A CARL

Rio

FOND

AMEN

ITEN

FOND

PEN

TÀ ER

Over the centuries, Venice has cultivated artisanal skills that have given life to emblematic artifacts.

Santa Maria delle Penitenti

LIB

Like us on facebook.com/WhereVenice

25 UNIQUE IN VENICE

LAR

Parco

Monastero "Villa Groggia" Carmelitane Scalze

ROLAMO SACCA SAN GI

F O N D A M E N TA CAL

’

NUOVE

CASE

I CASE

DELLE

CALLE

MENTA

LL DE

issuu.com/where-italia Digital magazines

Information and tips to experience the best that Venice has to offer

FONDA

Take advantage of your stay in Venice to enjoy this season’s latest offerings.

16 GIFT GUIDE

NT PO

www.whereitalia.com/venice Download all issues www.magzter.com Digital magazine store

Where® has selected a pick of 20th century and contemporary art galleries in Venice.

ISOLA DELLE TRESSE

October is truly a great month to visit Venice. Where® offers a few tips to help you spend a day enjoying the best of the city.

ISOLA SAN GIORGIO

STAY IN TOUCH

28 ART GALLERIES

Piazza San Marco. Photo © Shutterstock

44 ESSENTIALS

IN AUTUMN

COVER

12 WHY LOVE VENICE

Our pick of the best seasonal trends

ITALIAN-STYLE GIFT GUIDE

Two exhibitions pay tribute to the great Renaissance master

Venice and glass: a strong, enduring partnership that has lasted for centuries.

CALL

TINTORETTO 500

IN MURANO

of shows, art exhibitions and events.

26 ARTISTIC GLASS

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This season's most unmissable sights

LLE

6 HOT DATES Autumn This month's round-up P O R TLights O MARGHERA

Lavazza has updated the historic Caffè Paradiso's image at the Giardini MUR della Biennale with a restoration project that focuses on coffee, food, art and culture

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VENICE.WHEREITALIA.COM

42 ENTERTAINMENT

ISOLA CAMPALTO

OCTOBER 2018

Contents

ISO

VENICE CITY GUIDE

The great heart of Venice, the basilica of St. Mark's is a heady mix of history, art and contradictions

ENTERTAINMENT

www.potpourri.it San Marco, Venezia Palazzo Regina Vittoria

FASHION · HOME · MAN · LIFESTYLE

Fashion Ramo dei Fuseri 1810-1811/m Tel. +39 041 5221332 Home Frezzeria 1820/m Tel. +39 041 5201996

YOUR TRAVEL ING COMPANION SINCE 1936®

WELCOME TO VENICE www.whereitalia.com/venice

HIGH-QUALITY ITALIAN EXPERIENCE

WHERE ITALIA SRL

Via Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano. T: 02 349951 - Fax 02 33107015 info@whereitalia.com www.whereitalia.com/venice

If you are reading this magazine, you are very likely to be a “High-Quality Traveler”. This is because you are using quality tourist information to guide you on your stay in Venice.

PUBLISHER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Andrea Jarach (andrea.jarach@whereitalia.com) EDITORIAL (PROEDI MEDIA GROUP) MANAGING DIRECTOR

Daniele Misrachi (daniele.misrachi@whereitalia.com) MANAGING EDITOR

Alessandra Finzi (redazione@whereitalia.com) MAGAZINE EDITORIAL STAFF Amal Angelotti, Carey Bernitz, Elena Binda, Romena Brugnerotto (tourist advisor, www.rominvenice.com), Simona P.K. Daviddi, Giulia Minero, Elena Peverata, Stefania Vida, Chiara Zaccarelli ART DIRECTION Elisabetta Giudici DESIGNERS Floriana di Maio, Joy Lacanlale WEB EDITORIAL STAFF Chiara

Fonzi (redazione@ whereitalia.com), Fabio Lancini (art direction) ICONOGRAPHY Archivio Where® Italia, Shutterstock CARTOGRAPHY CITY MAP: © Where Italia srl. - 2018 Original Map by Urban File - www.urbanfile.or Fast Trains Network Map by Dmitry Goloub MARKETING & ADVERTISING Sieva Carolo, Isa Faleschini, Marta Mailhac, Rachele Renna, Paola Zannoni (advertising@whereitalia.com) ADMINISTRATION Katia Greto (amministrazione@whereitalia.com) PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION, SALES SUPPORT COORDINATOR

Paola Grilli (paola.grilli@whereitalia.com) LOCAL MARKETING Stefano Traine (T: 340 3026288) HOTEL RELATIONS MANAGER Maria Granata (maria.granata@whereitalia.com) HOTEL INFORMATION SERVICES Cristina Garbini (cristina.garbini@whereitalia.com)

This is because Where® is only found in the best luxury hotels in the major cities of the world. Your hotel is sure to be part of this restricted group of hotels. Just as you are part of a restricted group of travelers who stand out from the crowd. Who seek the best from every journey they make. And who usually have limited time available to get the best out of their trip. Two, three nights per destination. And the high-quality traveler wants to be sure of getting the most out of this short period of time. Andrea Jarach Publisher Where ® Italia

That’s why friends are needed in every location. To replace or back up a reliable source of tourist information. Where to go, what to see, where and what to eat, what shows and exhibitions are on, what museums to see in the short time available, and what you can find close to the city to enable you to understand Italy better. Where® was created for this very purpose (no less than 82 years ago!); still today, further enhanced by its digital editions, it remains the complete and reliable information source preferred by High-Quality Travelers. In Italy we are talking about approximately 12 million travelers each year, around 20% of the total. Some of these High-Quality Travelers spend more than €1,000 a day in this country, a huge market for those who are able to interpret their tastes and requirements. We have been doing this for almost a century now. Rely on us. For a high-quality Italian experience.

REG. TRIB. MILANO NO. 174, 28 JUNE 2016 WHERE® ITALIA SRL, ISCRITTO AL ROC NO. 20182 DEL 14 SETTEMBRE 2010 DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE (BG) Although the publisher has made every effort to include copyright credits, in the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would like to apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published in the next issue.

IN ITALY Where® is published in Milan, Venice, Florence and Turin by Where® Italia, in Rome by Tourist Media srl and in Naples by IES Comunicazione srl.

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Published in association with

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Where® magazine and the where® logo are registered trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications.

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP EXECUTIVE CHAIRMAN William S. Morris III PRESIDENT & CEO William S. Morris IV MANAGING DIRECTOR EUROPE Chris Manning w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 3

[ SIGHTSEEING]

PHOTOS © SHUTTERSTOCK

Top in town

Ponte dei Sospiri

BASILICA DI SAN MARCO This is the most important Catholic church in the city, and one of the most important monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1000; inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. Map F4 

CANAL GRANDE Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the main waterway of Venice. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. 

PONTE DEI SOSPIRI A Baroque bridge that once connected Palazzo Ducale to the prisons. The Bridge of Sighs is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. It can be accessed when visiting Palazzo Ducale. Map F4 

SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO The external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell of Palazzo Contarini - an exquisite, late Gothic building - is enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can

4 W H E R E V E N I C E I O C TO B E R 2018

be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. Map E4  TEATRO LA FENICE Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries La Fenice theatre has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. Map E5  CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE DI SAN ROCCO A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as

MORE AT PAGE 38 MAP PAGES 46-47

Canal Grande

Palazzo Ducale

PHOTO © MICHELE CROSERA

PALAZZO DUCALE A masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, it features a number of different and intricate architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it is superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. Map F4 

PHOTO LUIGI FARDELLA © SHUTTERSTOCK

a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. Its interiors are filled with numerous treasures. Map D4 

Teatro La Fenice

EDITOR'S TIP

11 MUSEUMS, 1 TICKET The Museum Pass is a combined ticket that offers access to all the permanent collections of Venice’s civic and affiliated museums. The Pass is valid for 6 months and allows one entry per museum site.

Info & Reservations: www.visitmuve.it Call center 848 082000. From abroad +39 041 42730892.

PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK

Full price ticket €24 > This ticket is valid for: the Museum of St Mark's Square (Doge's Palace, Museo Correr, Museo Archeologico Nazionale, Monumental Rooms of the Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana), Ca' Rezzonico-Museum of 18th-Century Art, Museum of Palazzo Mocenigo and Museum of Textiles and Costumes, Carlo Goldoni's House, Ca' Pesaro-International Gallery of Modern Art + Oriental Art Museum, Glass Museum in Murano, Lace Museum in Burano and Museum of Natural History.

Doge's Palace

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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES OCTOBER

HOT DATES Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating Italian traditions, art and music or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates.

ART

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TINTORETTO, THE SUPERSTAR OF THE LAGOON

He is the most Venetian of all Renaissance artists, commissioned by doges and aristocrats to decorate the city’s palaces and churches: Jacopo Robusti, better known as ‘Il Tintoretto’, was capable of astonishing his peers, astounding El Greco, Rubens and Velasquez, and anticipating the sensitivity of contemporary artists. Now, 500 years after his birth, Venice is set to pay tribute to the great Renaissance master with the ‘Tintoretto 500’ project. Two concurrent events: the exhibition at Palazzo Ducale tells the story of Tintoretto’s later career with a magnificent monographic exhibition, while the Gallerie dell’Accademia hosts a section of masterpieces concentrating on the first ten years of the artist’s working life and the context in which his training took place.

SEPTEMBER 2018

JANUARY 2019

TINTORETTO 500 “Tintoretto 1519-1594”, Palazzo Ducale “Il giovane Tintoretto”, Gallerie dell’Accademia di Venezia. www.mostratintoretto.it

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OCTOBER

Jacopo Robusti - “Tintoretto’, Susannah and the Elders (mid-1550s). Gemäldegalerie, Kunsthistorisches Museum, Vienna. w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 7

WHERE NOW | HOT DATES PHOTOGRAPHY

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THE HUMAN CONDITION

A tribute to renowned French photographer Willy Ronis SEPTEMBER JANUARY (1910-2009) featuring 120 vintage images, including ten dedicated 2018 2019 to Venice. The most complete exhibition ever held in Italy, this must-see retrospective traces the career of one of the greatest interpreters of 20th century photography and a protagonist of the French Humanist movement. Willy Ronis. Fotografie 1934-1998 Casa dei Tre Oci. Fondamenta delle Zitelle, 43 (Isola della Giudecca). www.treoci.org

Willy Ronis, Les Amoureux de la Bastille, Paris (1957)

OCTOBER BIENNALE ARCHITETTURA

Experience your space Visiting the Biennale (25 May-25 November) and its exhibitions, an eclectic mixture of worldliness and culture, is an event that many people have heard about and would like to attend at least once in their lifetime. The theme of this year's edition is 'Freespace' and is intended to symbolize the generosity of spirit and sense of humanity at the core of architecture's agenda. It’s not necessary to have knowledge of architecture: what counts is a spirit of curiosity and an ability to go along with the provocative ideas offered by the artists participating in the event. Before setting out, make a list of unmissable highlights, because, depending on the time available, you might only be able to see a fraction of what’s on offer. However, now that the initial hordes of aficionados have left, October is the perfect time to visit the Architecture Biennale. The organizers of the Venice Biennale offer different types of tickets: forget about visiting the Giardini and the Arsenale in just one day. It’s advisable to opt for a multi-entry ticket so that you can enjoy the experience to the full without exhausting yourself. Ask your concierge. www.labiennale.org/en/architecture/2018

OPERA

CURTAIN CLOSER

Teatro La Fenice’s 2017-2018 opera season ends this evening with a performance of Gioachino Rossini’s ‘Barber of Seville’ directed by Bepi Morassi. In 2018, Venice’s OCTOBER renowned theatre celebrated the 150th anniversary of the death of the Marchigiano maestro with ‘Progetto Rossini’. This spring, amongst other works, the program featured Rossini’s youthful farce ‘Il Signor Bruschino’ and ‘Semiramide,’ a tragic melodrama in two acts which Rossini composed for the Fenice opera house in 1823. Repeat performances of the latter, conducted by Riccardo Frizza and directed by Cecilia Ligorio will be staged on 19, 21, 23, 25 and 27 October, with Jessica Pratt starring in the role of Semiramide. Teatro La Fenice. San Marco, 4387 www.teatrolafenice.it 8 W H E R E V E N I C E I O C TO B E R 2018

‘The Practice of Teacing’ by Swiss architect Mario Botta: an impressive timber structure at the Arsenale that hosts research works conducted by students of architecture.

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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES

OCTOBER

EVENT

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OPEN THE DOORS

For the fourth consecutive year, luxury group LVMH is opening the doors of its famous fashion ‘maisons,’ inviting the public to explore their unique architectural, artisanal and cultural OCTOBER OCTOBER heritage. The event is an invitation to discover exceptional venues, and the carefully preserved savoir-faire of its brands. From 12 to 14 October, Les Journées Particulières will offer visitors a chance to explore 76 iconic locations worldwide, several of which are being opened to the public for the first time. T Fondaco dei Tedeschi, Venice’s luxury department store located just steps from the Rialto Bridge, is one of the fourteen locations featured in Italy. Various Initiatives scheduled during the event at T Fondaco dei Tedeschi include: • Guided tours to discover DFS’s first lifestyle department store in Europe housed in a 16th century building on the Grand Canal. • A meeting with one of Bulgari’s master watchmakers who will demonstrate the various creative steps of his work. • A multi-sensory journey amidst the fragrances and artisanal products of Acqua di Parma. • Moments dedicated to discovering the objects created by several of Murano’s most famous glass manufacturers, including Ercole Moretti and La Perla Veneziana and meetings with French artist Aristide Najean renowned for his luminous glass sculptures.

Les Journées Particulières-LVMH c/o T Fondaco dei Tedeschi. Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto bridge) www.lvmh.com/lesjourneesparticulieres - www.tfondaco.com

ANNUAL EVENTS IN VENICE OCTOBER Venice Fashion Week (20-27 October) Venicemarathon (28 October) NOVEMBER Teatro La Fenice - Concert Season Opening (3 November ) Festa della Salute (21 November) A popular religious feast day. Teatro La Fenice - Opera and Ballet Season Opening (23 November) DECEMBER Christmas Concert at St. Mark’s basilica (17-18 December) > Organized by Teatro La Fenice with the Cappella Marciana Soloists. New Year’s Eve Concert-Teatro La Fenice (29-30-31 December)

> 2019 < JANUARY New Year’s Eve Concert-Teatro La Fenice (1 January) Regata delle Befane (6 January) > A costumed race between members of the Bucintoro, the oldest rowing company in Venice.

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FEBRUARY/MARCH Carnival of Venice (16 February-5 March 2019) > Shows, masked parades and music in ‘calli’, squares and palaces. APRIL Venice Fashion Spring (13-14 April) Venice Night Trial (14 April) > Urban trail run 16 km through the historical centre of Venice. Festa di San Marco/Feast of St. Mark (25 April) > In addition to being a national holiday, on 25 April Venetians also celebrate Saint Mark’s day. MAY Biennale Arte 2019 11 May-24 November (preview 8-9-10 May), Arsenale and Giardini > The 58th International Art Exhibition is organized by La Biennale di Venezia and curated by Ralph Rugoff Festa della Sensa or Ascension festivity (11-12 May) > A masked parade in St. Mark’s Square to celebrate the Serenissima

and the ‘Sposalizio del Mare’ (Marriage of the Sea) ceremony Vogalonga (19 May) > 44th edition of the 30 km rowing marathon from the Northern lagoon to the islands. JULY Festa del Redentore / Feast of the Redeemer > (20-21 July) One of Venice’s best loved festivals, the event features a parade of boats in the Giudecca and fireworks. AUGUST/SEPTEMBER International Exhibition of Cinematographic Art 75th Venice Film Festival organized by La Biennale di Venezia. SEPTEMBER Regata Storica / Historic Regatta One of Venice’s foremost rowing competitions. The Venice Glass Week An international festival dedicated to the art of glass-making.

Elegance is an attitude Simon Baker

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WHERE NOW | FOCUS

12 W H E R E V E N I C E I O C TO B E R 2018

Romena Brugnerotto Lifestyle Editor Where ® Italia

Why love Venice in

Autumn

BY ROMENA BRUGNEROTTO

PHOTO © ASAC

Visiting Venice in autumn is a privilege: the summer crowds have returned to work, temperatures are mild and pleasant which means that you can sightsee throughout the day and go out in the evening, without worrying about freezing. On the plus side, ‘acqua alta’ (floods) are not a problem. October is truly a great month to visit Venice. Here are a few tips to help you spend a day enjoying the best of the city.

et’s start your visit. While breakfasting at your hotel, leafing through this magazine or visiting the www. whereitalia.com/venice website and deciding where to go and what to do is an enjoyable way to start your day. Since you’ll doubtless be fresh and well rested, dedicate the morning to visiting an exhibition. Must-visits in October include two exhibitions dedicated to Jacopo Tintoretto, 500 years after his birth. The Gallerie dell’Accademia is hosting the exhibition ‘Il Giovane’ (The Young Tintoretto) featuring 26 exceptional works by Tintoretto showcased alongside works on permanent display at the museum, and works on loan from the world’s most important public and private institutions; several of which are being displayed in Italy for the first time. The tour of discovery of Tintoretto’s works continues at Palazzo Ducale where, in addition to 50 of his paintings and 20 signed drawings, on loan from prestigious international museums, you can admire the famous cycles created for Palazzo Ducale between 1564 and 1592, on view in their original places. Make sure to keep your tickets because they will entitle you to a discount when visiting the second exhibition. Alternately, if you’d rather devote your time to something more contemporary, head to the Architecture Biennale, packed with exhibitions and installations at the official areas of the Giardini and Arsenale. A TOUCH OF VENETIAN TASTE By the time you’ve finished exploring the exhibitions, it’ll probably be time for lunch. Before heading to your restaurant of choice, stop somewhere for a Spritz, a typical Venetian aperitivo, made with Prosecco (a sparkling white wine typical of the region), sparkling water or soda and a dash of Bitters, an Aperol or a Campari depending on your taste. If you haven’t yet found your favourite, try them all... but preferably not all together! When it’s time for lunch, although you’re likely to have numerous options, experience what the Venetians do during their lunch break. The city is packed with hundreds of bacari offering ‘cicchettiì or simple meat, w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 13

WHERE NOW | FOCUS

Terrazza Danieli

Attombri SOMETHING SWEET AND… TRENDY A Venetian specialty par excellence, Tiramisu is an absolute ‘must’ at any time of the day. The ‘I Tre Mercanti’ coffee house in Cannaregio offers a spritzbased version called ‘Spritzamisu’. Top, left: for a chic, leisurely break Terrazza Danieli proposes ‘Venice by Brunch’ until 28 October. Above, Attombri’s unique artisanal creations feature a blend of Venetian art deco and ethnic elements.

Spritzamisù, I Tre Mercanti

fish or pasta dishes at affordable prices. What are cicchetti? They’re the bite-sized appetizers found in the display cases at bars. Fill your plate with a tantalizing assortment, order a glass of wine and enjoy! If, at the end of your meal, you’re still feeling hungry, go for seconds, it’s perfectly admissible. The ideal way to end your lunch is with something sweet and, here we recommend tiramisu, a Venetian specialty par excellence (which contains a little coffee, so you won’t need to order one!). The best can be found at I Tre Mercanti (Campo de la Guerra, 5364 – sestiere Castello) where you’ll surely return to sample their other flavours including amaretto, matcha tea, raspberry and white chocolate. If you’re into glamour and happen to be in Venice on Sunday at lunchtime, remember that the most sought-after Sunday brunch in the city is served at the Terrazza Danieli restaurant, situated on the Riva degli Schiavoni. Until 28 October, from 12.30pm to 3pm, the restaurant’s “Venice by Brunch” offers a fabulous selection of international breakfast classics, platters of Italian charcuterie and cheeses, typical Venetian hors d’œuvres, fresh vegetables from the nearby Rialto Market, and a 14 W H E R E V E N I C E I O C TO B E R 2018

kaleidoscope of desserts from every corner of Italy. CREATIVE SHOPPING It’s time to get back on track and dedicate a little time to shopping. Venice Fashion Week, an event devoted to discovering Venetian creativity, is held from 19 to 27 October. Convenient maps listing all the events are available at your hotel or artisan shops. For more detailed information about the best places to shop, visit the www.whereitalia.com/ venice website or ask your concierge. In the meantime, we’ve compiled a short list to help you get started. If you’re interested in jewelry, head to Attombri (San Polo, 65). Boasting a clientele ranging from Hollywood stars to internationally renowned designers, Attombri’s contemporary jewelry enhanced with copper, silver and antique Murano glass beads, embraces Venetian art deco and ethnic elements for universal appeal. A more classic but equally stylish look, can be found at Venetian Dreams (San Marco, 3805), where jewelry, embroidery, flowers and coral creations are crafted using freshwater pearls

and small Venetian glass ‘conterie’ (seed beads), chosen from amongst the rarest and most beautiful. On the subject of jewelry, an absolute must is a visit to Eredi Jovon (San Marco, 5325), a celebrated Venetian jeweler since 1934, renowned for its hand-engraved gemstones, based on an ancient tradition dating back to Roman times. Have you heard about paper jewelry? The most beautiful examples can be found at Paper Owl (Santa Croce, 2155), which creates truly original items using different types of paper to transform this material into unique design objects which are now displayed in the showcases of several of Venice’s most prestigious hotels. In addition to jewelry, the venue also crafts beautiful boxes for those wishing to take a tiny piece of Venice home with them. Are you looking for a mask? Here are a few places that still make handcrafted versions. Ca’ Macana (Dorsoduro, 3215), one of the city’s oldest shops (they also organize mask-making courses for groups and families – a real treat for

kids and a great way to keep them entertained), and Ca’ del Sol (Castello, 4964), which also makes masks in leather and ceramics, decorated with gold leaf, silver, copper, precious fabrics, lace and Swarovski crystals. Have you noticed the shoes worn by gondoliers? They’re the famous ‘furlane’ and you can purchase them in a variety of styles and colours at Piedaterre (San Polo, 60). Venetians have used them as house slippers for years, but lately they’ve become a must-have for fashionistas and trendsetters around the globe EVENING EVENTS Until 7 October, Venice hosts several events related to the Biennale Musica, the festival of contemporary music (www.labiennale.org/ en/music/2018). While attending the events, you’ll also have a chance to visit areas of the Arsenale that are not generally open to the public. Alternately, if you’d rather stay in the centre, Teatro Goldoni is staging a comedy titled ‘Arlecchino Furioso’ by Carlo Goldoni. Part of the production is performed in English and the entire performance is supertitled. The play lasts for one and a half hours meaning that you won’t miss out on dinner. Time permitting, look for a dining venue on a beautiful terrace

or a restaurant with a canal side view. Several options are available, including the panoramic terrace at the Danieli Hotel or the views over the Grand Canal offered by the Centurion Palace, the Gritti or the Bauer Hotel. After dinner, enjoy a leisurely stroll through the city, and then head to St. Mark’s Square to take one last memorable photo of this city of dreams.

Ca' Macana

Arsenale

Piazza San Marco

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WHERE NOW | SHOPPING

GIFT

GUIDE Giulia Minero Lifestyle & News Editor Where ® Italia

► MICHAEL KORS Designed as a 24/7, work-toweekend bag, the ‘Whitney’ family from MICHAEL Michael Kors combines a sophisticated silhouette with on-the-go versatility. For the fall fashion season, don’t miss the ‘MixedMedia Whitney’: designed in a mix of suede and snakeembossed leather, the quilted stitching is outlined with geometric studs for added texture. www.michaelkors.it

◄ GAMBARO & TAGLIAPIETRA The Murano Glass Studio’s offerings range from small and large handcrafted masterpieces, including chalices, plates, animals, candle holders, table lamps, carafes, glasses and vases - like the ones pictured here from the ‘Rainbow’ line - to real collector’s items created in a limited edition for discerning customers in search of unique objects. gambaroetagliapietra.it ► ROBERTO COIN Featuring a minimalist design, these exquisite rings in white and yellow gold with diamonds are a part of the ‘Portofino’ collection. A hallmark feature of Roberto Coin’s creations is a small, hidden ruby set inside every piece of jewelry. A secret gift and a message of goodwill dedicated to the women who wear the brand’s creations… it.robertocoin.com

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◄ EMILIO CECCATO This ‘Fero de Prua’ bracelet in waxed pearl or black cord and cotton is embellished with nickel-free 316 stainless steel details, reminiscent of the iconic bow irons or ‘combs’ found on Venetian gondolas. A tribute to the world of gondoliers whose uniforms and accessories are supplied by official supplier Emilio Ceccato. emilioceccato.com

▲ FROM VENICE WITH LOVE A ‘sweet’ souvenir that embodies all the fragrant aromas of Venice. The exclusive packaging of these butter biscuits highlights their uniqueness. The tin box, featuring symbols of the lagoon city, preserves all of their freshness intact, making them as crunchy and delicious as they were at first bite. Available at T Fondaco dei Tedeschi. www.tfondaco.com - www.dfs.com

V E N E Z I A V E R O N A M I L A N O F I R E N Z E R O M A D U B A I

THEMERCHANTOFVENICE.COM

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SHOPPING R

.C E T R R A V E L E

Venice to wear Freywille’s enamelled jewelry meets the allure of Venice, creating the ideal souvenir of your trip. All items can be mixed and matched, including the latest one dedicated to Van Gogh. By Elena Binda

t’s called ‘Hommage à Venise’. This is the jewelry collection designed by Freywille that pays tribute to Venice, one of the world’s most iconic cities, and the first in Italy to be chosen by the Austrian brand to host its mono-brand boutique. At its prestigious location in St. Mark’s Square, you can find the entire collection dedicated to the city, including rings, bracelets, earrings and pendants, all inspired by the Clock Tower and the famous winged lion, the symbol of Venice. All Freywille’s pieces are the result of an artistic technique that requires 100 steps to sculpt each accessory. ‘Hommage à Venise’ is a perfect souvenir of an unforgettable trip. Each piece of the collection, crafted in enamel, smelted at 800 18 W H E R E V E N I C E I O C TO B E R 2018

degrees, baked in special ovens and applied in layers, will allow you to bring home and continue ‘wearing’ those special moments that you will remember of the time you spent in the Lagoon. Its shop also carries all the other collections designed by Freywille, a leading name in fired enamel jewelry for over 65 years. The concept of the brand’s latest collection celebrates the aesthetics of one of the best-loved artists of all time. ‘Hommage à Vincent Van Gogh’ comprises a series of jewelry and watches, divided into two sub-collections, ’Éternité’, inspired by ‘Starry Night’, and ‘L’Amandier’, in the ‘turquoise’ or ‘rouge-éclat’ versions, inspired by the painting ‘Almond Blossom’.

>> www.freywille.com Piazza San Marco, 53. T: 041 5200807.

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/VENICE

The

Guidelines

This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. MAP LOCATIONS- Note that references in bold

at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 46-47. TRANSPORT-References to vaporetto lines and stops are based on departure from the Santa Lucia railway station. SHOPPING -Shopping hours are generally from 10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Venice) and on Monday mornings. Ask your concierge. Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.

Tips to purchase Murano glass In order to protect local craftsmanship and guarantee the authenticity of recently purchased products, a group of Muranese glass companies, in collaboration with the Regione Veneto, has created a trademark to guarantee that products have been made in Murano according to the traditional techniques used by master glassblowers. Management of the registered Vetro Artistico® Murano trademark is entrusted to the Promovetro Murano Consortium, which boasts a membership of fifty companies. Depending on the type of working process involved, the adhesive sticker can be either red or blue. It also shows the manufacturer’s identification code on the top. In 2016, a serial number and a data matrix code were added to the sticker. These serve as additional proof that the product purchased is a genuine Murano-made item. (by G.M.) www.muranoglass.com - www.promovetro.com

TAX-FREE SHOPPING

By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund. UnionPay Service Hotline: 00 800 800 95516 e-mail: europe@unionpayintl.com

DINING

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30 € or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. SIGHTSEEING

Information about our selection of museums and monuments is checked as carefully as possible. However, opening hours and site accessibility are subject to change depending on the time of the year. Ask your concierge.

PHOTO ©DFS

UnionPay is an international bankcard association based in China and serves the world’s largest cardholder base. With more than 7 billion cards issued worldwide, UnionPay has become the mayor payment method of the outbound Chinese. By March 2018, almost 600,000 merchants in Italy accept UnionPay card for payment, among which 7,000 merchants are located in Venice. This allows hundred of thousands of affluent Chinese customers to shop with their favourite cards. UnionPay also actively work with famous retail groups, such as DFS Group, Coin Excelsior, Airport dutyfree shops, to provide special discount or services for UnionPay cardholders.

The luxury heart of Venice Just steps from the Rialto Bridge, luxury department store T Fondaco dei Tedeschi offers the best of shopping, food and authentic Venetian craftsmanship. All under one roof. Spanning 7,000 square meters, the very first DFS retail space in Europe features an exceptional array of Italian and international fashion brands, accessories, jewelry and watches, wines and spirits, fragrances and beauty products. An authentic shopping experience in an emblematic historic building. Built in 1228, for almost 800 years it was a hub of culture and trade. This lavish four-storey department store is used as a space for events, exhibitions and cultural initiatives but also as a venue designed to promote authentic Venetian craftsmanship. The ground floor atrium is home to AMO, the exclusive Venetian café/restaurant run by the Alajmo brothers offering a gastronomic experience embodying the real soul of Venice (www.alajmo.it/amo). And, to top it all, this stunning historic building overlooking the Grand Canal is also a gem of architecture which, per se, is worth a visit: the view from the rooftop terrace is breathtaking! T Fondaco dei Tedeschi. Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge) www.tfondaco.com

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[ FA SHION DESIGNERS]

Luxury Top Brands DEPARTMENT STORES T FONDACO DEI TEDESCHI—Tfondaco.com Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge) T: 041 3142000. Map F3 COIN EXCELSIOR—www.coinexcelsior.com Cannaregio, 5787 (Rialto Bridge) T: 041 5203581. Map F3

DOLCE&GABBANA—www.dolcegabbana.it San Marco, 2188 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5209991. Map F4 ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA—www.zegna.com Bocca di Piazza San Marco, 1241. T: 041 5221204. Map F4 ETRO—www.etro.com. San Marco, 1340 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5232599. Map F5

ALBERTA FERRETTI—www.albertaferretti. com San Marco, 295/296. T: 041 5220772. Map F4

FENDI—www.fendi.com. San Marco, 1582 (Calle Frezzaria). T: 041 2778532. Map F4

BALENCIAGA—www.balenciaga.com San Marco, 1310 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5230806. Map F5

FRATELLI ROSSETTI— www.fratellirossetti.com Campo San Salvador, 4800. T: 041 5230571. Map F4 • San Marco, 1477 (San Moisè). T: 041 5220819. Map F5

BALLY—www.bally.it San Marco, 4919-4921 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5285839. Map F4 BOGGI MILANO—www.boggi.com San Marco, 1744 (Bacino Orseolo). T: 041 2960321. Map E4 • Stazione Santa Lucia (Fondamenta S. Lucia, 20). T: 041 5246445. Map C3 BORSALINO—www.borsalino.com San Marco, 4822 (Calle del Lovo). T: 041 2411945. Map F4 BOTTEGA VENETA—www.bottegaveneta. com San Marco, 1473 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5228489. Map F5 BULGARI—www.bulgari.com. San Marco, 1494. T: 041 2410553. Map F4 BURBERRY—it.burberry.com San Marco, 2308 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 240291. Map E5 CARTIER—www.cartier.it San Marco, 1474/1495 (Calle San Moisè). T: 041 8842511. Map F4 CHANEL —www.chanel.com San Marco, 2070 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2405399. Map E5 CHANEL BEAUTY San Marco, 1254/A. T: 041 2708699. Map F3

FURLA—www.furla.com. San Marco, 4833 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 2770460.Map F4 GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani.com San Marco, 2282 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 8503048. Map F4 GUCCI—www.gucci.com San Marco, 2102 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2413968. Map F4 • San Marco, 258 (Mercerie). T: 041 5229119. Map E5 HERMÈS—italy.hermes.com San Marco, 1292 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2410715. Map F5 HUGO BOSS—www.hugoboss.com Piazza San Marco, 80 (Bacino Orseolo 1218). T: 041 5224378. Map F4 JIMMY CHOO—www.jimmychoo.com San Marco, 1289. T: 041 5224510. Map F4 LORO PIANA—www.loropiana.com San Marco Ascensione, 1301. T: 041 2770695.Map F5 LOUIS VUITTON— www.louisvuitton.com. San Marco, 1345. T: 041 5224500. Map F5

‘Tiffany Paper Flowers’ by TIFFANY & CO. comprises platinum and diamond jewelry, in which nature and floral motifs take centre stage. Here, the yellow diamond firefly pendant in platinum.

PRADA—www. prada.com San Marco, 1464/1469 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5283966. Map F5 RENÉ CAOVILLA— www.renecaovilla.com San Marco, 1296. T: 041 5238038. Map F4 ROBERTO CAVALLI— www.robertocavalli.com San Marco, 1314. T: 041 5299020. Map F5 ROCCA 1794— www.rocca1794.com Piazza San Marco, 125. T: 041 5201014. Map F4 SAINT LAURENT—www.ysl.com San Marco, 1302. T: 041 5202211. Map F4 SALVADORI DIAMOND ATELIER— www.salvadori-venezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Map F4 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— www.ferragamo.com. San Marco, 2098 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2778509. Map E5 SWAROVSKI—www.swarovski.com San Marco, 256 (Mercerie dell’Orologio). T: 041 5210618. Map F4

CHOPARD—www.chopard.com Piazza San Marco, 51. T: 041 5231883. Map F4

MAX MARA—it.maxmara.com San Marco, 5033 (Mercerie). T: 041 5226688. Map F5

CHURCH’S—www.church-footwear.com San Marco, 1316 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2410147. Map F5

MISSONI— www.missoni.com San Marco, 1318/A (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5205733. Map F5

CLARKS— www.clarks.eu. Cannaregio, 5586 (Salizada S. Canzian). T: 041 5229946. Map F3

MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com San Marco, 1471 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 8106066. Map F5

DAMIANI —www.damiani.com San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Map F5

MONCLER—www.moncler.com San Marco, 2088 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2960605. Map E5

TOD’S—www.tods.com San Marco, 2251 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5206603. Map E5

DIOR— www.dior.com San Marco, 1255 (Calle Larga de l’Ascension). T: 041 2411636. Map F5

MONTBLANC—www.montblanc.com San Marco, 2380 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2413747. Map F5

VERSACE—www.versace.com San Marco, 1462 (Campo San Moisè). T: 041 5200057. Map F5

20 W H E R E V E N I C E I O C TO B E R 2018

SWATCH—www.swatch.com San Marco, 5022 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5228532. Map F4 TIFFANY & CO.—www.tiffany.it San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Map F5

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RAMO Mon-Sat 1.30pm-8pm. www.giovannazanella. cutting of the leather to the end creation. TA R IO DEL M CORTE DEL ORA L POZETO it. Castello, 5641 (Calle near Campo San Lio). T: CAMPIELLO Craftsmanship and Italian style are the hallmark DE ORO FO 041 5235500. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).DE LA MADONNA traits of Venetian shoe designer Michele De Anatema Ca' Pesaro N ST D CAMPIELLO CAMPIELLO A Santa Sofia Map F4 Fina. Open daily 10am-1pm/2pm-7pm. www. R Rossana Righini delights customers with her alleria Internazionale VALMARANA AD DEL PESTRIN CA A LL C O RT E micheledefina.com. San Marco, 318/A (Calle San Lazzaro E scarves, brooches, costume jewelry, bags, NO d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro VA B ATA G I A R VA IS CO CORTE Giuliana Longo dei line Mendicanti della Canonica). T: 041 3030189. Vaporetto hats and silk, handmade ties. Her windows and CORTESE CAMPIELLO A milliner boasting a longstanding family 1 or STELLA 2 (San Marco stop CORTE or San display cases express the owner’s philosophy: NOVA Zaccaria stop). Santi Apostoli tradition dating back to the early 20th century, Map F4 “The culture of beauty, the magic of elegance”. CAMPIELLO WIDMANN CAMPIELLO CAL Giuliana Longo’s fame has spread far beyond TI PASSION TIP AnatemaCà also stocks small L OZ DELLA CASON d'Oro ZI René Caovilla GABRIEELI the boundaries of Venice, thanks to her unique Murano glass jewelry. Open daily 10amS.Canciano Ospedale In the 1950s, twenty-year-old René started SS. Giovann C A M P I E L L O Chiesa Evangelica Venetian aesthetic. Her shop is the dream 2pm/3pm-7pm. www.anatema.it. San Polo, 2603. N SAN CANCIANO D R IO C A L L AN E working at family’s footwear factory, L E his Luterana SCU hat-cupboard of any true sartorialist, amidstLE WIDM T: 041 5242221. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Tomà OLE L revealing his talent as a ‘footwear sculptor’. CA old-world furnishings, original panama hats stop). Map D4 CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA BasedC in Venice, he has collaborated with CAMPO DELLA PASSION TIP and handmade headgear. The ALL San Cassiano E L ARG PESCARIA N ZI A N fashion houses of the likes of Valentino, Dior, A G N CA . GA only shop in town where Francis Model D A S A you can find authentic LL ZA LI A SA Santa Maria Galliano, Chanel INand is noted for the stunning R IO CAMPO gondolier’s hats. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Stylish, high-quality bags with a focus on colour. DE Basilica dei SAN CASSAN CAMPO DE LA I M dei Miracoli line of "jewel shoes" he co-created with Karl I www.giulianalongo.com. San Marco, 4813 (Calle Established in 1965, this small artisanal ‘bottega’ R BECARIE San Giovanni Santi Giovanni e Paolo AC CA C A LL Shoe-designer to the stars, A-listers OL Lagerfeld. LL E DE CAMPO CAMPO ED I L del Lovo).T: 041 5226454. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 diktats of FO R Grisostomo CA E C has always remained faithful to the NO CESARE BATTISTI CAL LL A’ LE C ED include Gwen Stefani, MU SANTI GIOVANNI GIÀ A S T who adore his creations EL (Rialto stop). Map F4 ELL TI Made in Italy craftsmanship. LocatedDELLA just steps I A BO Teatro Malibran E PAOLO BELLA VIENNA TA Robin Wright, Britney Spears and Sarah Jessica CAMPO from the Rialto Bridge, Ruggero De Zorzi devotes CA LL E DE LE SAN GIACOMETO Macrì ER BE TIP His pumps inChiesa Parker. PASSION Venetian dell’Ospe himself DtoCAMhis craft with pride and passion. CORTE SECONDA EL P San Giacomo This shoe boutique in San Marco - its other DEL MILION lace are truly iconic! Open daily 10am-7pm. CARAMPANE SA IEL L Open dailyNSO10am-7.30pm. www.francismodel.it. O NI di Rialtobranch is located in Frezzeria - has been a DE www.renecaovilla.com. San Marco, 1296. T: 041 BA RB AR IA DE LE TO LE San Polo, 773/A (Ruga Ravano). T: 041 5212889. CA Casa di RA reference point for discerning Venetians since the 5238038. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San MarcoMP O CAMPO AN Vaporetto Map E3 CAMPIELLOline 1 (Rialto Mercato stop). E Marco Polo RIALTO 1970s. Its owner Jacopo Nobili sells sought-after, Vallaresso stop). Map F4 DEL SOL Fontego NUOVO classic men and women’s shoes, distinguished by dei Tedeschi O N Giovanna Zanella VA CA RA C. D LLE their Made in Italy aesthetic. Open dailyC10amSant’Aponal EL E F DEL A D years, Venetian designer-cobbler .M A ONT For the pastGHten ET P IO EGO RT IN MB Ponte7.30pm. LSan EN O RU Marco, 420 (Calle Larga). T: 041 522 GO D. P SA CAL Giovanna Zanella has been creating exclusive N G FO LE G ALL S CAMPO di Rialto CORTE E IA Z Z AL CAMPO IOVNDA CORTE ON IZVaporetto O AN ME 9956. line 1 (San Marco stop) Map F4• D TREVISAN ZA CAMPO APONAL DEL NI NT ER SAN SAN BORTOLOMIO DA LA A lines of shoes for men and women at her P L DEL VOLTO PRESTRIN TE PIO RA DE CAMPO Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco Frezzeria, NO X E LL A workshop located just a stone’s throw fromRialto the Al Duca d'Aosta SAN LIO C 1583. T: 041 522 8997. CAMPIELLO PIELLO San Silvestro CAMPO Each pair is endowed with its own, SANTA MARIA Rialto Bridge. SAL Originally established in Venice in 1902, Al Duca DEI IZ A DE FORMOSA DA FONDAMENTA SAN SAN SILVESTRO C. D LONI EL G L IO unrepeatable personality because they are oftenC PRETI boasts stores in six cities across the d’AostaDEInow ALIA Michele De Fina ZZO AL CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO LE Santa Maria LA enhanced by a surprise element likeFontego touches C. Triveneto region: Venice, Padua, Verona, Mestre, LARG RGHighly select leather shoes, its owner oversees A A CORTE DEL Santa Maria Dolfin Manin MA Formosa Palazzo SAN LORENZO BORGOLOCO Z Palazzo of nylon, cobra heads, pistils or fringes. Open ZIN SABION CAMPO and Udine. The historical four-storey each from the I stage of the working process MONDO della Fava TrevisoDELCORTE

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SHOPPING Venice location features over 100 top fashion brands for men and women, carefully selected to offer its clientele quality and elegance. These include casual men’s lines for a sporty-chic look, sartorial designs for savvy-style gentlemen and women’s wear, featuring the iconic accessories of the latest collections, including small leather goods and bijoux, for a glamorous, cosmopolitan aesthetic. The store offers numerous special facilities and services for its customers, including a Personal Shopping service and Tax Free Shopping. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.alducadaosta.com. San Marco, 4945. T: 041 5220733. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Boggi Milano An easy yet sophisticated look for businessmen on the go, but, above all, a guarantee of style for those who appreciate quality. Boggi Milano offers garments aimed at a contemporary, modern and cosmopolitan man who is not prepared to sacrifice the classics of the male wardrobe: the suit, a second skin that is so comfortable that it can be worn on any occasion. Other locations: Cannaregio (inside the Santa Lucia Railway Station, Platform 6- Fondamenta Santa Lucia, 20) and Marco Polo Airport. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.boggi.com. San Marco, 1744 (Bacino Orseolo). T: 041 2960321. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

22 W H E R E V E N I C E I O C TO B E R 2018

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Marina Rinaldi Renowned for its tasteful, plus-size apparel for fashionable women, Marina Rinaldi offers a wide range of collections, featuring both contemporary and classic lines that are updated on a seasonal basis. These include dresses, jackets, coats, bags, accessories for a total look that exudes class and elegance. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun and festivities 11am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm. it.marinarinaldi. com. San Marco, 5028 (Merceria San Salvador). T: 041 2770064. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop).

Map F4

Pot-Pourrì Three exclusive boutiques set against the magnificent backdrop of Palazzo Regina Vittoria in the heart of Venice. Pot-Pourrì carries clothing and fashion accessories for him and her, artisanal Made-in-Italy collections and a selection of international brands, skillfully mixed with the flair for which the brand is renowned. Couture dresses, handcrafted accessories and knitwear woven in cashmere, silk and natural fibers. The boutiques also stock a selection of accessories and homeware inspired by a classical contemporary aesthetic including knick-knacks and objet d’art for the home, bathroom and table (also ideal for wedding gift lists). Private boat landing stage. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.potpourri.it. Womenswear: San

Marco, 1810 (Ramo dei Fuseri) - T: 041 2410990. Menswear: 1811/m (Ramo dei Fuseri) - T: 041 5221332. Homewares: San Marco, 1820/m (Frezzeria) - T: 041 5201996. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 San Marco Vallaresso stop Map E4

DEPARTMENT STORES T Fondaco dei Tedeschi The recently renovated 16th century building that extends over 7000 sqm is a luxury shopping, food and cultural destination. Surrounding a central courtyard, the store offers the best in leading Italian and international fashion brands, accessories, jewellery and watches, wines and spirits, beauty and fragrances, food and a rich selection of local gifts. Don’t miss the specially curated cultural program on the 4th floor and the breathtaking view from the roof terrace. In partnership with Premier Tax Free, the store will also offer an instant detax at the cash desk when the payment is made by credit card, the first of this kind in Europe. Open daily 10am-8.30pm. www.TFondaco. com. Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge). T: 041 3142000. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).

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FASHION OUTLETS Noventa di Piave Designer Outlet With more than 150 stores, cafés and restaurants, visitors can find their favourite labels with price

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À BA onto the opposite side of theRbuilding, R B A on a FRU RAMO TA D magnificent plaza crowded with tables, andR IO L from here, if you walk along the river, you’ll reach a large food market, and finally, the CAMPIELLO VALMARANA Pescaria, the famous Fish Market. From early C O RT morning, on any day of the week (except B ATA G Sunday) this vibrant place is frequented by Venetian locals, who regularly shop here, browsing its colourful stalls that are CAMPIELLO located under a loggia nearDELLA the Grand CASONCanal. Inscriptions about fish-related regulatory C Aof MPIELLO measures, proclaimed by the Republic SAN CANCIANO Venice, can still be found on the walls! W E LL CA >> Fish Market: Open Tues-Sat 7.30amCAMP S.MARIA N noon. Food Market: Mon-Sat 7.30amN A N Z IA C 1.30pm. San Polo 330-338 A(Campo N A AD S S A L IZ RI della Pescaria). Vaporetto line 1 O DE IM (Rialto Mercato) or traghetto from IR San Giovanni AC OL Campo Santa Sofia (€2). I

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For more than thirty years, Gems of Venice has sourced the most precious stones, which are then processed at its workshop near the Rialto

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Gems of Venice

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A reference point in the world of high-end jewelry, N CAMPO DO Damiani is renowned for its unmistakable style ER SAN APONAL LP E and innovative technical solutions, D including E L L CAMPO its ‘a lunette d’illusione’ settingCA designed to CAMPIELLO SAN POLO highlight the brilliance of its stones. www.damiani. CAMPO San DEI DE SAN SILVESTRO com. San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 MELONI 2770661. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

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Chiesa Evangelica Luterana

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In addition to its renowned collections of C haute joaillerie, Cartier is also famous for its DE AM L PIE RI CARAMPANE SA L O priceless NS LO TE a perfect mix of design and CORTE DELtimepieces, RÀ ON Dby TEATRO I technology, enhanced precious metals and E LE CA RA diamonds. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11amMP CAMPIELLO AN CAMPIELLO E1474/1475 (Calle 7pm. www.cartier.it. San Marco, ALBRIZZI DEL SOL San Moisè). T: 041 8842511. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

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CAMPO made to the very highest standards. Open Mon-Sat SAN CASSAN 10.30am-6.30pm. www.audemarspiguet.com. Piazza CA San Marco, 18. T: 041 5285519. Vaporetto LL line 2 (Rialto CA CA E L ’B DE E CA O N Lstop). Map F4 CA LL V DE ’

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JEWELRY & WATCHES Santa Maria Audemars Piguet Mater Domini A must-visit stopover for luxury watch lovers. A San Cassiano of classic watches since 1875, Audemars o Grionipurveyor Piguet is the place to go for elegant timepieces, CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

A trip to Venice is not complete without a visit to the Rialto Market, possibly one of the city’s most authentic and traditional experiences. This Sis one of Venice’s most TR AD ancient markets, a one-of-a-kind place A crowded with Venetians, Nshopkeepers O VA and tourists eager to shop. It is located near the Rialto Bridge, on the San Polo side, extending across the Canal Grande, between Campo San Giacomo and Campo Cà d'Oro della Pescaria. Campo San Giacomo is a beautiful square surrounded by a portico called Sottoportego del Bancogiro, an ancient bank where merchants would gather to negotiate. CAMPO If you’dDELLA like to try the PESCARIA famous 'cicchetti', accompanied by a glass of wine or a spritz, a number of 'bacari', CAMPO DE LA Venice’s traditional ‘osterie’, can also be BECARIE found in the area. Several of these CAMPObars face

San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

San Felice

Adidas-Reebok, Aldo Bruè, Baldinini, Alberta FerrettiMoschino, Calvin Klein, Fedon, Iceberg, Ixos-Malloni, Nike, Piquadro, Pollini and many others. Tax refund for Non-EU citizens. In addition to shopping, Palmanova CA LL ET R O Outlet Village makes you discover a land full of history N and taste: the picturesque hills of the Collio region, the landscapes of Friuli’s Dolomites and the Alps, close to the Karst plateau with the historical sites of the Great War and the star-shaped city of Palmanova, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Open daily 10amCA LL 8pm. www.palmanovaoutlet.it. Take the A4 highway E DE I Venezia-Trieste and exit Tat I O Palmanova. Infoline: T: 0432 ZZ I 837810. Off Map

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Casino di Venezia o Palmanova Outlet Village o Just one hour from Venice, Palmanova Outlet ia Village offers 90 stores with the trendiest brands S.Stae e discounted by up to 70% and open all year around:

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reductions of up to 70%, all year round, and further FO N discounts at the annual summer and winter sales. D AM From iconic fashion brands like Prada, Gucci, Armani, EN TA Fendi, Jil Sander and Paul Smith to sporting labels, Rio M F OX-Bionic, and high-street favourites, like like Nike de Sand IS ER ervi N . D A N Guess and Desigual.I Easy to reach from Venice via the ELE IC CA O C A M P I E L L O N R shuttle service (available twiceAaL day from “Venezia D SAN MARZIALE IA Tronchetto”, Mestre and Marghera), it offers endless RIO FO TER N entertainment, from the children’s adventure play area D À D AM FO E L A and to restaurants N summer EN M A cafés and even an annual D DD A TA A L E ATM M music festival. Facilities: N A cash machine, cafés, EN TR TA AP restaurants, kids play area, baby-changing rooms, O D LI E free parking, store map and guides, multilingual N C customer service, wheelchair accessible, free Wi-Fi, A ' V EN personal shopper (on request with extra charge), dogs D RA M admitted to the outlet village (admission in stores IN depending on the store policy), Tax Refund for NonEU citizens and Currency Exchange on-site agency. Open daily 10am-8pm. www.mcarthurglen.com. Via Marco Polo, 1 (Noventa di Piave, 30 minutes from Venice). T: 0421 5741. Off Map C

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SHOPPING Bridge, in the heart of Venice, to become authentic wearable art. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-9.30pm; Sun 10.30am-2pm/3.30pm-6.30pm. San Polo, 1044. T: 041 5225148. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4

designs. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.pomellato.com. San Marco, 2031 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5231909. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

international certificates. www.rocca1794.com. Open daily 10.30am-7pm. Piazza San Marco, 125. T: 02 5201014. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Nardi Venezia

Rocca 1794

Salvadori

A combination of a love of precious stones and a passion for the art of goldsmithery make Nardi’s jewelry rare accessories to be worn or collected, the epitome of sheer Venetian elegance. Open daily 10am-6.30pm. www.nardi-venezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 69. T: 041 5225733. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F5

The boutique’s sweeping window display, overlooking the famous St. Mark’s Square, host the collections of prestigious brands including Damiani and Salvini, but also the iconic models of some of the world’s most coveted high-end watchmakers including A. Lange & Söhne, piaget, Hublot, Zenith and Longines. Also particularly worthy of note are the splendid creations in glass handcrafted by Venini, unique artifacts that add a definite touch of allure to the space. Expert collectors or those who are new to the game can count on a service of excellence which entails full pre- and post-sale assistance. Other services include a full maintenance service with check ups and providing

Pomellato Established in 1967 as an artisanal workshop, over the years, its contemporary jewelry has captivated wearers around the world. Pomellato creates highly sought-after collections featuring a range of stones boasting myriad colours and ultra-feminine

ROLEX RETAILER Salvadori was founded in Venice in 1857. A member of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses, Salvadori purchases its diamonds from Antwerp and Tel Aviv, accompanied by the highest diamond quality certificates. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-6.30pm. www.salvadori-venezia.eu. Diamond Atelier Venice: Piazza San Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Salvadori Boutique Rolex: Piazza San Marco, 44. T: 041 2602313. Salvadori Boutique Panerai: Piazza San Marco, 47. T: 041 5200899. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

Tiffany & Co. Founded in 1837 in New York, Tiffany & Co. is a world-renowned jeweller. Since its introduction in 1886, the Tiffany ® Setting has been known as the ultimate symbol of love, paving the way for Tiffany’s legendary collection of engagement rings. Bold, modern collections, including the elegant, minimalist creations designed by Elsa Peretti and the brightly-coloured lines by Paloma Picasso, have made Tiffany a destination for those seeking spectacular beauty, style and the very best in design. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.tiffany.it. San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

PASSION SHOPPING La Bottega dei Mascareri

In the footsteps of Venetian merchants The Merchant of Venice is a sophisticated brand of artistic perfumery inspired by the city of Venice and its old-age trade with the East. Characterized by a unique philosophy, the brand offers a wide range of products, all contained in exquisite bottles, including the new fragrances of the Murano Collection. Its concept is deeply rooted and inspired by the rich history of Venice. Between the 14th and 17th centuries, as a result of the development of its trade routes, which allowed Venice to import goods from the Far East and sell them throughout Europe, the Lagoon city became Europe’s most important maritime power. Inspired by the routes to Byzantium, China, Africa and Spain, every fragrance in this line celebrates one of the routes opened up by Venetian merchants, evoking their essence and scents. The collection includes Andalusian Soul, a bewitching fragrance infused with notes of Mediterranean herbs and Malaga wine, and Mystic Incense, whose scent evokes the atmosphere of ancient Syria (see photo). www.themerchantofvenice.com Flagship Store San Marco, 1895 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 2960559. Spezieria all’Ercole d’Oro Cannaregio, 2233 (Strada Nova, Santa Fosca). T: 041 720600. Concept Store Murano Fondamenta dei Vetrai, 114 (Murano). T: 041 5274297.

24 W H E R E V E N I C E I O C TO B E R 2018

The workshop of the Boldrin brothers specializes in the crafting of a variety of papier mache Venetian masks, including jesters, elves and characters from the ‘Commedia dell’Arte’ for a trip back into 18th century Venice. The Mascareri have also worked for the theatre, the cinemas and fashion shows, and are considered among several of the most established manufacturers of collector’s items. They were the first mask makers to embellish their masks with decorations by Tiepolo. Open daily 9am-6pm. www.mascarer.com. San Polo, 80. T: 041 5223857 and San Polo, 2720. T: 041 5242887. Map E3

Ca’ Macana One of the oldest and finest mask making workshops in Venice for Carnival, theatre, film production and parties. Ca’ Macana crafts authentic handmade masks in the same way that Venetian artisans did 800 years ago and each mask is unique. Thanks to their expertise, they also hold conferences and courses on traditional mask-making techniques. Their masks were featured in important film productions including “Eyes Wide Shut” by Stanley Kubrick and in operas including those staged by the Vienna Opera House. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www. camacana.com. Maskmaking and Courses: Dorsoduro, 3215. Showrooms: Dorsoduro, 3172 and Dorsoduro 1169. T: 041 2776142. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). Map D4

Ottica Mantovani Sun and prescription glasses, the most technologically advanced lenses and the most

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Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto

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San Giacomo di Rialto

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CA ’M UT I

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When visiting Venice for the first or umpteenth time, we hope to find something truly Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto original for an authentic shopping experience. San Francesco An object, created by skilled craftsmen della Vigna S A N P O L O Sant’Aponal that captures the essence of the place or represents a special souvenir, to be kept as a memento or a gift for familySanand friends back home. San Silvestro Lorenzo Ottica Fontego Santa Maria Basilica San Rocco Chiesa Rettoriale Santa Maria the centuries, Dolfin Manin Formosa Palazzo as with all historic cities throughout the world, Venice has cultivated Over Palazzo dei Frari di S. Polo della Fava Grimani Mantovani Rava o della Consolazione ● Palazzo that have given life Teatro San Giovanni artisanal skills to emblematic artifacts, C A Sranging T E Lfrom L Oartistic glass Querini Carlo Goldoni San Salvador di Malta Palazzo Stampalia Querini-Dubois Palazzo La Biennale di Venezia de n a Grimani Educational to paper objects, accessories, fabrics and jewelry. In today’s world, where everything is Arsenale Gr Arsenale di Venezia l a San Giuliano San Tomà Can San Giovanni Novo San Beneto San Luca La Biennale di Venezia an Pantalon manufactured and can be bought – either at shops in the city or online Teatro – those alle Tese items, Palazzo Palazzo Giustinian Nervi San Giorgio Persico Scattolin Palazzo Fortuny dei Greci based on manual work and ancient techniques that have been handed down Arsenale di Venezia Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo from generation to generation, still hold a unique value. San Zaccaria San Martino Basilica di San Marco Santa Maria San Giovanni Battista della Pietà Remember that purchasing a souvenir authentic workshops or -from S A N MSanAFantinR C O in at Bragora La Biennale di Venezia Arsenale artisans Palazzo Palazzo Ducale GrassiNorma's Santo Stefano helps Venice preserve its traditional artisanal skills and hand them down to Museo San Samuele Correr Ca' Rezzonico ● Teatro la Fenice future generations. San Moisè San Barnaba San Maurizio Palazzo Loredan CO

VIA

G. GA LLI

ELLO

Rio d el Giardini

CAL

M en

d ic

OLI

NE CAST

GIUSTIN A

LAR

TE ST A CA LLE

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San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti

CA LL

VENEZIA

DE E LL CORTE NOVA

DR IO CA LLE LE SC UO

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

UCCI

O RN

FO L DE

R LE

BAN DI

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

RIO

CORTE CORTESE

CAMPIELLO STELLA

C AL LE

SA LIZ

BO L

LA EL

DE E

ST EL LA

C.S AN T’A NT ON IO

RIO TER RÀ

AD A

CA ’D

TE BO I

Alberto Sarrias Masks ●

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN VA RI SC O

S.Canciano

CAN ZIAN A SAN

San Giovanni Grisostomo

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

CA LL E

C O RT E B ATA G I A

CA LL E DE

CA CA ’B LL E ON VI DE NC IN

SAL IZAD

LE D EL V O LT

DEL M ORA

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

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CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

CAMPO DELLA PESCARIA

CAMPO DE LA BECARIE

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San Cassiano CAMPO SAN CASSAN

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

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CA MPO

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Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana

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DE L

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CALLE ORSET TI

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RUGA BELA

San Giacomo dall'Orio

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O GI L ME E DE

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San Stae Ca' Pesaro ST Santa Sofia RA Galleria Internazionale D d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro A N O V A

L’IS

A LL

C. DE L TR AG HET O

TEG

FON

ITA SAL

LL CA

A’ DE

O DE LA VID A

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CAMPO NAZARIO SAURO

A DE

San Felice

S.Stae

TI ET OR EM LL CA

I CALLE ORSETT

TER

CALLE CAZZA

RUGA VECCHIA

Cappello

Naturale

UNIQUE IN VENICE

di Palazzo

CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

alazzo FO oranzo NDAME N apello TA G CA

Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola RIO

LI S

San Simeone Profeta

E RT

CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO

BI AS

RI VA

RIO TERÀ CAZ

Riva de Biaso

CALLE ORTI

Hundertwasser' Garden

Since 1980, this family-run business has created papier-mâché mask for the theatre, Carnival parties and as decorative items for the home. Over the years, its owner Alberto Sarria has explored different techniques and materials to create unique pieces. Today, the store has extended its range to include leather goods, crafted according to traditional Venetian artisanal techniques. ISOLA LA GRAZIA

S. Servolo

SAN SERVO

www.masksvenice.com San Polo, 777. T: 041 5207278.

NORMA'S Textile accessories for the home and personal use. From beach towels, bags and furlane (the typical velvet slippers with rubber soles worn by gondoliers) to furnishing accessories such as lamps, lampshades, decorative paintings, authentic Murano glass objet d’art, silverware and cameos. All items are crafted according to traditional artisanal techniques using high-quality ISOLA MadeSAN in Italy materials. CLEMENTE

ISOLA DI SAN LAZZARO DEG

www.teodamar.com San Marco, 2995-2996 (Calle delle Botteghe). T: 345 0133552. More info: www.whereitalia.com/venice

LIDO DI V w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 25

ARTISTIC GLASS IN MURANO

PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK

VENETIANS

Museo Di Torcello Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta Chiesa di Santa Fosca

100 m

ROSINA DELLA STRADA

ISOLA CATERINA SANTA

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100 m

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SAN FRANCESCO DEL DESERTO Convento di San Francesco del Deserto

Parco San Giuliano

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ISOLA SAN GIACOMO IN PALUDE

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United States Pavilion

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26 W H E R E V E N I C E I O C TO B E R 2018

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Hotel Excelsior Venice

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L’ARCHIVIO DRIO CALLE

F. CONDULMER

FON. DEI TOLENTINI

CERERIA LA DE

ROCCO SAN

ALBANESI

LARGA

LIPOLI

DEI

CALLE

SBIACCA

STRETA

CALLE

RAGUSEI

DORSODURO

CALLE

SESTIERE FOSCARI CALLE

E N TA

TA A R SE

LA TANA

CALLE

RIO TERA’ OGNISANTI

RAMO DE

CALLE

SANGIANTOFFETTI

AMEN

TANA

CALLE FRIZIER

EREMITE

FOND

DE LA

C. LOREDANA

FONDAMENTA

DAM

La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale

CAMPO

CALLE

DEI CORTELLOTTI

VIDA

CROSERA

CALLE

RIO

Museo Storico Navale di Venezia

ROSA

CASTELLO

FONDAMENTA

ROTONDA

CALLE

DEI FORNI

LARGA

FORNACE

SALONI

COSMO

ACCADEMIA

DEI

MOROSINA

FONDAMENTA

Basilica di San Pietro di Castello CALLE

PIETRO

TERRÀ

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

FONDAMENTA ARSENALOTTI

CALLE

Arsenale

100 m

SALUTE

Punta della Dogana

Giudecca Palanca EN

CONVERTITE

CALLE

LA CERTOSA

Vergini

SAN

ONI

de le

RUGA VECCHIA

S C H I AV

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

Ca' Giustinian

FONDAMENTA

CAMPO DELLA SALUTE

Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

RIO

VAPORETTO

San Giovanni Battista in Bragora R I VA D EGLI

FON

Salute

CATECUMENI

Giardino delle Vergini

Rio

San Martino

S. Zaccaria (Pieta')

DEGLI

La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese

RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA

C. VOLTO

RIO TERRÀ

La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale

Arsenale di Venezia

PESTRIN

GRITTI CALLE

Palazzo Genovese

FONDAMENTA

DEL

DE CALLE

CROSERA

Palazzo Pisani Gritti

DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO

CALLE

PISCINA

PIGNATER

CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO

ASCENSIONE

FONDAMENTA

nzera Scome De Canale I

MARTIN

L’ARCO

CALLE

DEL PIOVAN

MUNEGHE

CONVERTITE

VECCHIO GHETTO

CERERIA

CALLE

DE CALLE

CAMIN DEL

RIELLO CALLE

CALLE

DEL NOVA ISOLA

MARITTIMO PORTO DIREZIONE

MARITTIMO PORTO

ima

DIREZIONE

Maritt ne

MAGAZZIN

AI DIETRO

SALIZADA

FONDAMENTA

enzer

CALLE

VONI

BASTION

SCUDI

SCHIA

DEL

CALLE

L’ANZOLO

DEGLI

S. Zaccaria (Danieli)

NUOVE

CASTELLO

CALLE

Bacin o Stazio

CELESTIA

DONA

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI CALLE

R I VA

CASTELLO CASE

DELLA

CALLE

GATE

LARGA

SESTIERE

FONDAMENTA CALLE

CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA

DE L’OGIO

CALLE

SAN ANTONIN

CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO

SCHIAVONI RIVA

NUOVE

SECONDO SAGRADO

CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA

CORTE DEL MORION

CORTE DELLE GATE

SAN

Santa Maria della Pietà

VIN CALLE DEL

CAVALLETTO

Palazzo

FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN

CASE

RAMO

CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA

CORTE SACCA

DRASI

FABBRI

Moise

DEL TRAGHETTO

MARTIRI

San

CALLE

RIDOTTO

DEI PUTI

CALLE DEL PESTRIN

TREDICI

Rio

CALLE

VALLARESSO

CALLE

SARTOR

CALLE

SEBASTIAN

San Francesco della Vigna

FRANCESCO

SANTA GIUSTINA

CALLE DEI FURLANI

SALIZADA

CALLE DELA CREA

SAN

SALIZADA

San Giovanni di Malta

CALLE TERAZZERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’

Spirito Santo

BIAGIO

Sant'Eufemia

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

ZON

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA

San Zaccaria

CASTELLO

CALLE

CALLE SAN LORENZO

CALLE LION

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

SESTIERE

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA

San Lorenzo

DE LE

DEI

FONDAMENTA DEL VIN

C. DEL

A N M

SOTO E CORTE NOVA

Rio Del

CALLE

DEL CAFETIER

CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA

San Giorgio dei Greci

CAMPO SAN PROVOLO

CALLE BOSELLO

DELL’OROLOGIO

VERONA

DEI PRETI

CALLE

SPECHIERI

SPADARIA

MARZARIA

DEI

MINELLI

Palazzo Ducale

CALLE

DE L’OSMARIN FONDAMENTA

C. PIANTON

Museo Correr

ZORZI SALIZADA

SALIZADA

CALLE

GIUFFA

CASSELERIA

CALLE

ORSEOLO

Scom

Santa Maria del Pianto

CALLE

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

SEVERO

DEL

NOVE

LATERANO

CORTE NOVA

CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO

ZATTERE

SAN

LAVRANERI

CALLE

ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA

CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO

FONDAMEN TA

P U N TA S A B B I O N I

ENTA

DE LE TOLE

FONDAMENTA GIOVANNI

CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO

BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO

MEZO

RUGA

VERONA

SAN

ZZA

DE CALLE

SAN

PIA

PRIMO RAMOCONTARINA CORTE

San Moisè

CORTE NUOVA

REMEDIO

San Giovanni Novo

MARCO

CANONICA DE LA

CALLE ERIZZO

LIO

FONDAMENTA

MANDOLA

AVVOCATI

TERÀ

CALLE

Bacino Orseolo

CARRO

CALLE

BARBARIA

SAN

Palazzo Querini Stampalia

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

FONDAMENTA

RIO

CALLE

SAN

DE LA SACA

CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO

LE VIGNOLE

FONDAM

San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti

Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto

CORTE TREVISAN

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani

BANDE

CORTE

DEL

SAN

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

Basilica di San Marco

Rio San Lorenzo

C. DE LE COLONNE

DEL

DE LE

FRUTARIOLI

CALLE

LARGA

CALLE

CAPPELLO BIANCA

FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO

SAN

REDIVO

CALLE GOLDONI

CALLE

FRUTARIOL

DEL

CAMPO SAN MOISE’

CORTE BAROZZI

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

CALLE

CALLE DEL FIGHER

CALLE

BALONI

CORTE TORRETTA

FREZZERIA

MOISE’

SA PISCINA

XXII MARZO

VENEZIA

NOVE

Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo

FORNO

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

TASCA

CORTE DEL FORNO

C.DEI

Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo

CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

DEL

DE LE ERBE

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

SALIZADA

FABBRI

DE PISCINA

LA CHIESA

DRIO

LARGA

CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

ZULIAN

ORBI

DEI

GRIMANI

CALLE

PISCOPIA

CAVALLI

CARBON

Salvador

CALLE

DEL

CORNER

San

CALLE

Rio

TODESCHI

CALLE

G. GALLINA

CALLE

O MUSSATO CALLE

San Giuliano

SAN

PIGNOLI

DEI

BEMBO

C. DEI

CALLE

CORTE MICHIEL

LUCATELLO MARZARIA DEI

CALLE

San Fantin

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

San Gregorio

RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO

LICINI

MEZO

Spirito Santo CALLE

DEI LAVRANERI

San Gerardo CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO

LARGA

CALLE

CORTE

RUBBI

CORTE GRAGOLINA

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

CORTE NOVA

CALLE GABRIELI

DRIO CALLE LE SCUOLE

CALLE

CASTELLI

PIOMBO

D. PALLE

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

LIO

C. LARGA

CORTE

CALLE

CAPITELLO

BALOTE

GRAGOLINA LE COLONNE DE

GALLO

BERLENDIS

CORTE CORTESE

CAMPIELLO STELLA

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

CALLE DEL C.MARTINENGO

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

CAMPO

DE LA FAVA

CALICE

DEL

TAGIAPIERA

BOTERI

VARISCO

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

MIRACOLI

GIAZZO

SAN GALIAZZO

C. DEL

SALVADOR

MARZARIA

CORTE C.DEL TRAMONTIN

C.DE

STRAZZE TERÀ RIO

CALLE CAMPO SAN GALLO

REMER

DOLERA

CAFETIER

Santa Maria del Giglio

CALLE DEL BASTION

FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

DEL FORNO

SAN

DELLE

SAN

Teatro la Fenice

Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

CHIESA

CALLE DEL NAVARO

SABION

O DEL

CALLE DEL

CAOTORTA

Santa Maria del Giglio

CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim

DELLA

SALIZADA

FONDAMENTA

DEI

CALLE

CAMPO SAN LIO

C. DEL

CORTE DEL

MARZARIA

San Salvador

COCCO

GALIZZI

STURION

DEI

DEL

CINQUE

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

CALLE

DEI

CALLE

TOSCANA

MAZZINI CORTE

MAGAZEN

DEL

CALLE

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN

CALLE

MORETTI

DONZELA

LUCA SAN CALLE

MARCO

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

San Maurizio

Canal Grande

CALLE

CAPPUZZI

SANTO

BIAGIO

DEI

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

WIDMANN

RIO

Teatro Malibran

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

SALIZADA

LARGA

SAN SALVADOR

TEATRO DEL CALLE

LOCANDE

PONTE

SACCA SAN

LARGA

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

C O RT E B ATA G I A

S.Canciano

SAN CANZIAN

FONTEGO

PIO

CALLE

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

Santo Stefano

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

CALLE

SPIRITO

RAMO

CALLE

SAN BOTEGHE

CAMPO PISANI

CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

ZATTERE ALLO

CALLE

FALIER CALLE

San Vidal

FONDAMENTA

CAL

FRUTARIOL

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

CALLE

CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

Palazzo Loredan

CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

VENIER

BARBA

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

C. DEL

SALIZZADA

Rialto

TEATRO

CALLE ASSASSINI

FONDAMENT

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto

ORESI

nde Canal Gra

CROSERA

S. SAMUELE

SAMUELE

PESTRIN

CARROZZE

C.SANT'AGNESE

NANI

AI GESUATI

CALLE

SARTORI

TERÀ

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

San Giacomo di Rialto

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

CORTE DEL

Palazzo Nervi Scattolin

CAMPO MANIN PATERNIN

MANDOLA

TERÀ

RIO

CALLE

CORTE DEL REMER

RIO

SALIZADA

San Giovanni Grisostomo

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

SAN

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

DEL PISTOR

CALLE

ZATTERE

Zattere

VOLTI

PRIULI

NOVA

CAMPO DELLA PESCARIA

RAVANO

San Silvestro

Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)

CALLE

DEL

Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia CALLE

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

FOND.

FONDAMENTA

Santa Sofia

STRADA

DEI

PISCINA

CROSERA

S. SALIZADA

CALLE

S. Samuele

Ca' Rezzonico

Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione

Giudecca Hilton

Chiesa dei Gesuiti

ZEN

S.ANDREA

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

STUA

PARANGON

DEL

RUGHETA

S.Silvestro

DEL TEATRO

CATENE

CAMPO DEI GESUITI

FONDAMENTA

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

CALLE

RIELO

SPORCA CALLE PAZIENZE DE LE

LORENZO

FONDAMENTA

C. SAN

SCOAZZERA DE LA

LE PAZIENZE

Cana

CAMPO DE LA BECARIE

CAMPIELLO DEL SANSONI

CAMPIELLO DEL SOL

Palazzo Grimani

NOVE

CALLE

CATERINA

FOND.

Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana

MUTI

nde

NARISI FOND.

VECCHIA

CORTE LEZZE

CAMPO SAN TROVASO

BONLINI

FONDAMENTA

SANTA

CAMPO SAN BENETO CALLE

Palazzo Grassi San Samuele

CALLE BERNARDO

FONDAMENTA

LONGO

TRAPOLIN

San Beneto San Luca

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

TRAGHETTO

CA’ RAMO

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI

Ca' Rezzonico San Barnaba

San Trovaso

OGNISANTI

CA’

BOTA

Sant’Aponal DEL

DEL

C. DE

PONTE

CARAMPANE

CALLE

DI SAN MARCO

Accademia

FOND.

ZATTERE

Gra

Palazzo Fortuny

SESTIERE

CALLE

A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA

DE OGNISANTI

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

Sant'Angelo

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA

INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON

Chiesa di Ognissanti

FONDAMENTA

FODAMENTA

DE DE

CARAMPANE

TERÀ

CAMPO SAN APONAL

TRAGHETTO

CAMPO DEI CARMINI

Abazia della Misericordia D I

PERDON

DEL

Carmini

Santa Maria dei Carmini

CALLE DE LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN BESAGIO

DEL

CALLE CALLE

RIO

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

al Can Palazzo Giustinian Persico

S. Toma' SX

DORSODURO

BESAGIO

San Cassiano CAMPO SAN CASSAN

L’AGNELLA

Palazzo Querini-Dubois CALLE

del

RIO TERA’

L' ARZERE

GUARDIANI

CALLE SAN

CANAL RIO TERA’

Rio

CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO

CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN

San Sebastiano

San Felice

TIOZZI

CORTE DEL TEATRO

CAMPO SAN POLO

MADONA

CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA

ROSSA

FONDAMENTA

RAGUSEI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL

DORSODURO

CALLE

DEI

SCALETER

San Tomà

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

BEATE GIULIANA

SACCA

FISOLA

LARGA

d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro

CALLE

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

DEL

DE LA

CAZZIOLA

Angelo Raffaele

SALIZADA

CALLE CHIESA

FONDAMEN

VENDRAMIN

S.Stae

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

CALLE CA’BONVINCINI

BOLDO

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

CAMPO SAN TOMÀ

CROSERA

FONDAMENT

VENEZIA

TRON

SAN

CA'

FORNO

FONDAMENTA

LARDONI

CONTARINI

dell'Orto

San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale

CALLE

DEL

TENTOR

MEZO

CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO

ZANE

RAMO

Rio Nuovo

BRIATI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

S. Basilio

DELLA

SAN POLO

CAMPO DEI FRARI

CALLE

Giudecca Hilton FONDAMENTO

CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO

CALLE

FONDAMEN

DEL

TABACCHI

PRETI

L’ASEO

Madonna

MORI

CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE

CAMPO SAN STIN

TOMÀ

CAMPO SAN ROCCO

Santa Fosca

CALLE

NUOVA

TINTORETTO

DEI

CALLE

FOMO

RUGA

SAN

CALLE

CAMPO SAN PANTALON

RENIER

DEL

ALE

FABBRICHE

CALLE DE L’OGIO

TERÀ

Basilica dei Frari

San Rocco

Muneghete

CALLE

NIE

RIO

CALLE

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

PAPADOPOLI

DEI FONTEGHERI

CALLE

CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI

CAMPO SAN BOLDO

CALLE

CALLE DE LA LACA

PANTALON

San Pantalon

NUOVO

.DA

Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

CALLE

OCHE

LATTE

LACA

FONDARIA

CIMESIN

SAN

BASEGO

RIO

CALLE DELL'OLIO

TOLENTINI

FONDAMENTA

DEI

RAMO

CIMESIN

SALIZADA

CALLE

DEI

À D E

Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

L’ISOLA

OCHE

C.VENZATO

CALLE

C. CAMPAZZO DE CALLE

MINOTTO

Magazen

Misericordia

FO de Servi N

TER

SOTOPORTEGO

TINTOR

FON.

CALLE

San Nicolò dei Mendicoli

CALLE

Istituto Universitario Di Architettura

CALLE SAN BASILIO

DE LA VIDA

DEL

SCHI

NICOLO’ SAN

MATTA DI CA’

CALLE CASE NUOVE

AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO

TERA’

RAMO

CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO

CALLE ORSETTI

CANAL CORTE

LUNA

Rio

Del

Rio dei Tolentini

FONDAMENTA

CALLE CONTARINA

della

Rio

San Giacomo dall'Orio

RUGA BELA

TA GARZOTTI FONDAMEN

CALLE

DEI

LIBERTÀ

VECCHIO BERGAMA

SIMEONE

BARI

DELLA

SAN

TRAGHETTO CALLE

MARTA SANTA FONDAMENTA

CAMPIELLO LONGHI

CALLE

CERERI

Rio

La Maddalena

NOVA

CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

CALLE CAZZA

CALLE SAVIO

RUGA VECCHIA

CAMPO NAZARIO SAURO

DEI

RIO

Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola RIO

I CALLE ORSETT

NUOVA

FONDAMENTA

STRADA

BIASIO

BARI

LARGA

PONTE RIZZI

PROCURATIE

FONDAMEN

Soranzo Cappello

DEI AMAI

RAMO

Rio

PENSIERI

FONDAMENTA

LISTA

San Simeone Profeta C.

DEI

FONDAMENTA

ICO

VECCHIO

RIVA FONDAMENTA

CALLE

TERÀ

MADONA

SAN MICHELE

FONDAMENTA

della

CAMPO FONDAMENTA DEI MORI

CALLE TRAGHETTO

Riva de Biaso

CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO

Palazzo Soranzo Capello

Giardino di Palazzo

DE CAMPO

San Nicola da Tolentino

FONDAMENTA

RIO

MIS

CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA

DEL REMER

nde l Gra Cana

RIO

CASE CORTE

CALLE

SANT'ANDREA

TABACCHI

FABBRICA FONDAMENTA

E DEL PISTO

RIO DIETRO TERÀ LA CHIESA

San Marcuola

CAMPIELLO

NUOVE

CROCE

C. LAVADORI TERÀ

LUNGA

Giardino Papadopoli

PIAZZALE ROMA RIO

CALLE

CROCE

CALLE

Madonna dell'Orto

MADONNA

CALL

EONARDO

SAN LEONARDO

San Leonardo

DEI

Ferrovia

San Simeon Piccolo

Ferrovia

Sant'Andrea

SANT'ANDREA

RDIA

TRONCHET

LER

S. L R I O T E R À CAMPO

SCALZI

Ponte degli Scalzi

FONDAMENTA

TERÀ

DELL'ORTO

ER LE P

A E M

SPAGNA

LISTA TERÀ

P.le Roma

Ponte della Costituzione FO.

RIO

People Mover Venezia

Museo Ebraico CAL

MISERICO

CAVALLET

Santa Maria di Nazareth

People Mover Venezia

S A N TA

CAMPIELLO P I AV E

FONDAMENTA

Rio

Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia

ITTICO MERCATO DIREZIONE

PRIULI

CANNAREGIO

CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO

CALLE

TRONCHET

TRONCHETTO

Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo

Sant'Alvise

CAMPO S A N T ' A LV I S E

INE

CALLE

SAVORGNAN

San Geremia

CALLE DEI FUSERI

San Girolamo

CAMPO SAN GEREMIA

SALONI

ZATTERE

Palazzo Nani FONDAMENT

FONDAMENTA

NUOVE

LLO

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

N G IR

DEL

CAPITELO

CASE

CALLE

FO EN

DA PONTE

B AT

DOGE

Palazzo Labia Parco Savorgnan Salone del Tiepolo

CALLE

QUERIN,

BECCARIE

CALLE

CANNAREGIO

di Cannaregio

SEBASTIANO

FORNER

Canale

CAMPO SAFFA

CALLE

BRAGADIN

DEL

People Mover Venezia

Parcheggio Bus Turistici

di Sant'Alvise

Sensa

COLETTI

FONDAMENTA

SAN

GIOBBE

ISOLA DELLE TRESSE

della

CARLO

San Giobbe

VENIER FONDAMENTA

NUOVE

Rio

FOND.A

Ponte dei Tre Archi

FONDAMENT

DEL SABION

PENITENTI

CANNAREGIO

CAMPIELLO DEL SCARLATTO

FONDAMENTA

LARGA

FONDAMENT

Monastero "Villa Groggia" Carmelitane Scalze

ROLAMO SACCA SAN GI

CALLE

Santa Maria delle Penitenti

CAMPIELLO DE LA LAVANDER

DEL

CORTE

F O N D A M E N TA

TA’

NOVA

FONTEGO

RIO TERÀ CAZZA

ISOLA

Parco

SALITA

NANI

CANOSSIANE

Chiesa di San Michele in Isola

NUOVA ISOLA DEL TRONCHETTO

FOSCARINI

FONDAMENTA

TERRÀ

COLORATA

Cimitero Nuovo ORTES CALLE

VENINI

PAOLO

FONDAMENT

MURANO CALLE

CALLE DEL CIMITERO

NICOLO’ CALLE SAN

del

CALLE

Rio

PORTO MARGHERA

CALLE

The art of solidifying silicon to obtain a hard yet delicate transparent material, suitable for countless purposes, is rooted in the ancient past. According to historians, glass was first made in Mesopotamia in the III millennium B.C. However, several archaeological digs suggest that glassmaking was already practiced in Venice in the 7th century B.C. Furthermore, after the year 1000 A.D., its production had become so important that it was protected by specific laws. There was only one small problem - the presence of glass furnaces in medieval Venice, which was largely built of timber, presented a grave fire hazard.

TORCELLO

ISOLA DEI LAGHI

FONDAME

home on the same day. Furthermore, each piece is unique, meaning that small imperfections are an integral part of the value of the object. In short, if you come across a shop selling mass-produced items that promises quick delivery times or tempts you with low prices, beware. Apart from some exceptions, it’s better to do your glass shopping in Murano rather than in the city of Venice. Don’t worry if you want to buy an object but don’t have time to wait: the island’s glass factories are now equipped to make safe deliveries anywhere in the world.

As a result, in 1291, for safety reasons, the Great Council ordered the glass workers to transfer to the Island of Murano, where they created a district that still exists. It was here that in the 13th century eyeglasses were invented, and here, in 1369 that mirrors began to be produced. It was also here, in 1450, that Angelo Barovier invented crystal. Throughout the Renaissance, glass was a rare commodity. It was only in 1827 that glass began to be produced on an industrial level. At that point, blown glass or glass produced by lampworking became a highly prized material used for aesthetic purposes, and achieved the height of its splendor during the Art Nouveau period. Artists including Lalique, Dammouse or Tiffany sought out the glass blowers of Murano to produce their coveted objects. During the midtwentieth century, real masters of the art including Signoretto, Ballarin, Zanetti and Vidal began to emerge in Murano. Their works are highly coveted objects, true collectors' items that are often displayed at museums. While strolling through the streets of Murano, you’ll be spoilt for choice. If you want to make a purchase, bear several criteria in mind. Crafting authentic Murano glass is no easy task and isn’t cheap. Large objects require hours of work, so don’t expect to take you custom-made lamp

FONDAMENTA

Venice and glass: a strong, enduring partnership that has lasted for centuries. It’s natural to mention glass when talking about Venice. It’s the same as associating the city with the Lagoon, its colours and the plays of light that have served as inspiration for the most iconic creations by local master glass blowers.

FAUSTA

ADVERTORIAL

VETRERIA DUCALE Located in the heart of Murano, an island famed throughout the world, Vetreria Ducale offers a wide selection of glass works created by the best 20th century masters as well as premium-quality contemporary objet dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;art. Lighting, mirrors, sculptures, tableware and custommade items to suit individual styles and requirements. In addition to restorations, Vetreria Ducale also reproduces individual parts of antique objects. Worldwide delivery. Guided multi-lingual tours to the furnaces with glassmaking demonstrations.

Fondamenta Navagero, 76 MURANO Tel: +39 041 739922 | +39 041 5275284 fax +39 041 5276049 info@ducalemurano.com www.ducalemurano.com

VETRERIA ESTEVAN ROSSETTO 1950 Vetreria Estevan Rossetto 1950 offers a wide range of glass works and distinctive product lines. Created ad hoc, they blend to perfection with both modern and classic design elements. Chandeliers, mirrors and tableware: exclusive pieces skillfully handcrafted by master glass blowers from Murano, each item is made to order and customized according to individual tastes or designs. A team of expert multilingual staff is available to assist customers in their search for the perfect object and guided tours to the furnace can be booked on request.

Fondamenta Navagero, 50 MURANO Tel: +39 041 739329 fax +39 041 5274367 info@rossettomurano.com www.rossettomuranoglass.com More info: www.whereitalia.com/venice w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. comâ&#x20AC;&#x2021; 27

SHOPPING VENETIANS

Art galleries Is Venice really a place to buy objet d’art? Definitely! There are so many large and small 20th century and contemporary art galleries in the city that it’s almost impossible to list them all. Where® has selected a pick, renowned for their quality, tradition, or originality. By Romena Brugnerotto

Galleria Contini

Galleria Contini is a must-visit address for modern and contemporary art. Boasting more than 40 years in the business (it’s the oldest gallery in Venice), it exhibits works by important Italian and international artists including Mitoraj, Botero and Giuseppe Veneziano (San Marco 2288, www.continiarte.com). Other galleries, such as Luce Arte Moderna, are renowned for their display of works associated with the city (San Marco 1922, www.gallerialuce.com). Newcomers? Located in Venezia-Mestre, the D’E.M. Venice Art Gallery is a new, important exhibition space featuring a prestigious collection of 20th century masters including Vedova, Treccani, Licata, Guidi, Mirò and DalÍ. The gallery also hosts works by contemporary Venetian and international artists like Alexander Kanevsky whose imposing work titled ‘God’s Kingdom’ is one of the space’s major attractions. Ever-aware of the region’s cultural life and its artists, the gallery’s charismatic owner Elena Mangu offers a rich program of multi-cultural events and ambitious projects in the world of art dealerships (Venice-Mestre, via Dante Alighieri 8. www.demveniceartgallery.com). The new, 300 sq.m. space of Galerie Alberta Pane creates an artistic link between Paris and Venice.

In keeping with the space’s history as a workshop, the gallery encourages artists to give life to ambitious projects such as large scale installations (Dorsoduro 2403/h. www.galeriealbertapane.com). Among the new openings, the Victoria Miro Gallery has arrived directly from London to take up residence in the former space of Venice’s historic “Il Capricorno” gallery. The London dealer has brought several of the important artists represented by her to the heart of the city (San Marco 1994, www.victoria-miro.com). Located in the so-called Art Mile, in the sestiere of Dorsoduro which is teeming with museums and galleries, another must-visit venue is Galleria L’Occhio which, until 7 June, will host the works of Tobia Ravà, a Venetian artist renowned for researching the mystic currents of Judaism (San Marco 1994, www.gallerialocchio.net). Must-visit addresses for lovers of photography? The Ikona Photo Gallery housed in the picturesque spaces of the Ghetto Novo. Since 1979, thanks to its association with the Ikona International School of Photography, it has brought the best-known names in international photography to Venice (www.ikonavenezia.com). The ghetto is also home to Melori & Rosenberg,

D'E.M. ART GALLERY This vast, visually striking exhibition space was recently opened by its charismatic owner Elena Mangu. The gallery showcases works by 20th century masters and contemporary artists in suggestive settings characterized by the colour of its rooms and works. It is a constantlyevolving, multi-cultural, international gallery which also organizes collective and personal exhibitions. Off Map www.demveniceartgallery.com Via Dante Alighieri, 8 (Venezia-Mestre) T.: 041 981820 - Mob. +39 327 5803670

28 W H E R E V E N I C E I O C TO B E R 2018

a historic gallery renowned for exhibiting the works of hyperrealist painter Luigi Rocca (Cannaregio 2919, www.melori-rosenberg.com). Fans of photography should also plan a visit to the Bugno Art Gallery that exhibits the works of well-known Italian photographers including Campigotto, Morucchio and Galimberti (San Marco 1996/d, www.bugnoartgallery.com). It goes without saying that Venice is one of the best places to purchase glass objects. Due to its in-depth knowledge of artistic glass, Berengo Studio 1989 has invited several of the world’s best-known contemporary artists to experiment with this material and create unique pieces (Fondamenta dei Vetrai 109/a, www. berengostudio1989.com). Other go-to spaces in the city include Caterina Tognon who represents the most important artists of Studio Glass (San Marco 2158, www.caterinatognon.com). Collectors of wearable art should head to OhMyBlue. This unique venue sells contemporary artistic jewelry, bags, accessories, everyday items, glass items, ceramics and porcelain, all carefully selected from the best international offerings available on the market (San Polo 2865, www.ohmyblue.com).

SHOPPING Piedàterre

The roomy, velvet handcrafted ‘Madison’ tote by TESSITURA BEVILACQUA is inspired by the iconic Madison Belmont Building in New York.

comfortable, fashionable frames. Managed by the Carlon family since the ‘40s, it is now run by the third generation of opticians: a reference point for locals requiring either prescription eyewear or sunglasses. In fact, one of the Mantovani’s most famous customers was Peggy Guggenheim. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. www. otticamantovani.it. San Marco, 4860 (Mercerie del Capitello). T: 041 5223427. Map F4

Ottica Manuela Located in the district of San Marco, this high-end optician resembles an atelier rather than a shop. Renowned for its professionalism and attentive service, it offers creations that are real works of art. Its frames for prescription lenses or sunglasses make Ottica Manuela’s iconic eyewear real statement pieces that add a unique touch to every face. Open daily 10am-7pm. San Marco, 3145 (Salizada San Samuele). T: 041 5210268. Map E4

Tucked away under an arcade just steps from the Rialto bridge is a tiny boutique with an astonishing selection of handmade slippers, where Alessandra and Renato make and sell colourful ‘furlane’ (slippers), handcrafted with recycled bicycle-tyre treads, ideal for finding your footing on a gondola. Their creations are available in coloured velvet, brocade, printed fabrics or recycled shirting, provided by their customers. Highly original and absolutely unmissable! Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www. piedaterre-venice.com. San Polo, 60 (Ruga Rialto, Sotoportego dei Oresi). T: 041 5285513. Map E3

Tessitura Bevilacqua Artisanal weavers specializing in the production of exquisite, decorative fabrics for furnishings and curtains. A unique place! Since 1875, the company has practiced the art of weaving on original looms that once belonged to the Venetian School of Silk. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am4pm (Sat-Sun by appointment). www.luigibevilacqua.com. Santa Croce 1320. T: 041 721566. Map E5

The Merchant of Venice The prestigious stand-alone boutique of this brand which represents the ‘Art of Perfumery in Venice’ is housed in the former, mid-17th century apothecary of San Fantin, located just steps from La Fenice Opera House. Its neo-Gothic décor and ornamentation in walnut, wood and terracotta, reflect the typical style of ancient Venetian ‘palazzi’. The Merchant of Venice is not only a line of products but a wider project which includes a concept store in Murano, the Palazzo Mocenigo Museum in Santa Croce, the Spice shop in Ercole d’Oro (Cannaregio) and the World of Venice space at the Marco Polo Airport. www.themerchantofvenice.com. Open Tues-Sun

10.30am-7.30pm. San Marco, 1895 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 2960559. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Venini An artistic space, where you rediscover all the elegance and sophistication of the exquisite creations handcrafted by Master glassmakers from Murano. A prime location for passionate collectors, or those whose want to further their knowledge about an entirely Italian art, Venetian glass creations, meticulously handcrafted by Master craftsmen. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.venini.com. San Marco, 314. T: 041 5224045. Other location: Fondamenta Vetrai, 47 (Murano). T: 041 2737204. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto or San Marco stops). Map F4

Sizing Women clothes IT EUR US UK 36 32 1 4 38 34 2 6 40 36 4 8 42 38 6 10 44 40 8 12 46 42 10 14 48 44 12 16 Women shoes IT EUR US UK 36 36 6 3 37 37 6.5 4 38 38 7.5 5 39 39 8.5 6 40 40 9 7 41 41 9.5 8 Men clothes IT EUR US UK 50 46 36 36 52 48 38 38 54 50 40 40 56 52 42 42 58 54 44 44 60 56 46 46

MARINA RINALDI A style emblem dedicated to celebrating the curvier female form through great-fitting fashion, is located at no. 5028 of Merceria San Salvador. it.marinarinaldi.com

Men shoes IT EUR US UK 40 40 7.5 6 41 41 8 7 42 42 8.5 8 43 43 9 9 44 44 10.5 10 45 45 11.5 11 46 46 12 12

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STROLLING THROUGH BURANO

VENETIANS

In addition to Murano and Torcello, this island on the Venetian Lagoon should not be missed. Loved (and widely photographed) by tourists, it is famous for its colourful houses, butter biscuits and above all, its handcrafted lace. BY STEFANO TRAINE

With a population of only three thousand inhabitants, the island’s row of houses, whose facades boast all the colours of the rainbow, are truly spectacular and make it one of the most picturesque places on earth! However, the origin of this tradition of painting the houses in bright colours was not only for aesthetic reasons. Legend has it that its fishermen, often confused by frequent banks of fog, devised a chromatic code that would help them identify their own landing piers more easily. Each colour corresponded to a family, to their house and to their address. BURANO LACE. The island is also the capital of handmade lace, a craft kept alive for centuries by the wives of fishermen waiting for their husbands to return from sea. The work is extremely exacting, with each woman specializing in a single stitch. Since there are seven stitches in total, each piece is passed from woman to woman to finish. Groups of women work diligently for days to produce items, whether large or small, of matchless beauty: trims for dresses, accessories, tablecloths, gloves, umbrellas and masks, all made from this delicate, white lace, crafted with a painstaking attention to detail that has lasted for centuries. While on the island, make sure to visit the Museum of Lace-Making to understand 30 W H E R E V E N I C E I O C TO B E R 2018

why something so exquisite should not become extinct (Piazza Galuppi, 187). GASTRONOMIC TRADITION. Butter biscuits known as Buranelli (either ring or S-shaped) are famous on the island and you'll be offered them wherever you go. However, this is not the only specialty that you’ll find. The island has a long-standing gastronomic tradition linked, above all, to fresh fish.

HOW TO REACH BURANO Vaporetto line number 12 runs from the Venice-Fondamente Nove stop to Burano (1 hour). If you’re not in a hurry, the Venetians recommend taking line 14 from San Zaccaria (Pietà stop). Take a look at the venue where the Film Festival is held, and admire the MOSE flood barrier, the huge hydraulic engineering project designed to protect the lagoon.

ADVERTORIAL

MARTINA VIDAL The Vidal family has been making Burano lace for over four generations. Today, Martina Vidal is a luxury home linen atelier where passion, tradition, quality, and craftsmanship are combined to create unique, inimitable items made from only the finest quality fabrics.

www.martinavidal.com Via San Mauro, 309. T: 041 735523.

TRATTORIA DA ROMANO Run by the Barbaro family for four generations, this picturesque eatery has retained all of its timeless appeal. Recognized for more than fifty years as one of the few prestigious art restaurants in Venice, Romano manages the trattoria with the help of his wife, Siora Gigia. Standouts include ancient Burano specialties, and the chef’s signature mixed grill cooked over wood.

www.daromano.it Via Galuppi, 221. T: 041 730030.

LA PERLA GALLERY The Bon family in Burano offers an assortment of only the finest handmade items including antique lace, high quality made-to-order tablecloths, furnishing accessories, household linens, refined silk for lingerie and clothing, christening gowns and children’s clothing (up to age 10), exclusive scarves in silk and cashmere and Venetian masks.

Via Galuppi, 287-376. T: 041 730009 More info: www.where-venice.com w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 31

DINING

Sailing towards new flavours Aromi, the fine dining restaurant at the Hilton Molino Stucky, seduces diners with the flavours of Italian cuisine re-interpreted with the creative flair of Executive Chef Ivan Catenacci. By Simona P.K. Daviddi

enice’s imposing Hilton Molino Stucky, started life as a flourishing flour mill and overlooks the Giudecca Canal, offering superb views over the lagoon city. The outdoor terrace of the hotel’s Aromi restaurant is one of the best places to take in the breathtaking sights of the city. Infused with a sophisticated, elegant atmosphere, reminiscent of a yacht club, the restaurant, helmed by Executive Chef Ivan Catenacci, offers deliciously fresh, Italia cuisine enhanced with a creative twist. His dishes, though rich in flavour, are never inventive for the sake of invention. Standouts include tuna with dark chocolate and a garlic sauce, bite-sized potato gnocchi with Chianina beef strips, black truffle shavings and Fossa cheese, sea bass with a cream of porcini mushrooms, and lastly 32 W H E R E V E N I C E I O C TO B E R 2018

surprising desserts, including ‘beer and truffles’. Aromi takes diners on a multi-sensory culinary journey, accompanied by an exclusive selection of Doc sparkling wines. It is therefore no surprise that the restaurant has received numerous international awards, including ‘Destination restaurant of the year, Italy’ at the Luxury Travel Guide Food & Drink Awards and ‘Fine dining experience of the year 2018, Veneto’ at the Travel & Hospitality Awards. Other accolades include winning the San Pellegrino Cooking Cup, a competition involving a regatta and a cookery contest, for three consecutive years. >> Aromi Giudecca, 810. T: 041 2723311. molinostuckyhilton.it

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/VENICE

TASTING EXPERIENCE Enoteca Al Volto Excellent wine accompanied by traditional ‘cicchetti’ and Venetian fish specialties, Enoteca Al Volto invites diners into its warm, welcoming atmosphere. €. Open daily 11.30am-3pm and 6pm-10pm. San Marco, 4081 (Calle Cavalli). T: 041 5228945. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Zaccari stop). Map E4

L’Aciugheta Its fame and fortune stems from a soft, 7 cm long “paninello” (literally, “tiny sandwich”), stuffed with butter and two “aciughete” (skinless anchovies in oil). Other must-trys include its meatballs, croutons, stuffed chili peppers and freshly baked ‘pizzette’ topped with anchovies. €. Castello, 4357 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5224292. Vaporetto line 1, or 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Osteria alla Rivetta One of Venice best-known, most traditional “cicheteria” (but also a trattoria for lunch and dinner), it is a go-to address for wine tastings. Open daily 11am-10.30pm. €. Castello, 4625. T: 041 5287302. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4

TRADITIONAL ITALIAN CUISINE A Beccafico Arte It offers several dining spaces and a small inner courtyard. Its typical Venetian ambience, is low-key, contemporary and elegant, blending to perfection with its Sicilian-style cuisine. €€€. Closed on Tuesdays. www.abeccaficoarte.com. Cannaregio, 2289/C. T: 041 2759220. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E5

A la Vecia Cavana Set within the picturesque environment of an old restructured cavàna (a typical sloped building used to house boats), this restaurant serves delicious traditional Venetian and Italian cuisine. €€€. www. marsillifamiglia.it. Cannaregio, 4624 (Rio Terà SS. Apostoli). T: 041 5287106. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map F3

Acqua Pazza Set against the magical backdrop of Campo Sant’Angelo, it offers a great ‘al fresco’ dining experience under the stars. This small corner of Amalfi in Venice serves an array of tantalizing dishes. €€€. www.veniceacquapazza.com. San Marco, 3808. T: 041 2770688. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).

‘granseola’, polenta with shrimp, a mixed fish fry with artichokes and seafood risotto. The restaurant offers a gluten free menu especially designed for coeliacs. Closed on Thursday. €€€. www.algiardinetto. it. Castello, 4928 (Salizada Zorzi). T: 041 5285332. Vaporetto line 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4

Al Mercà Highly sought-after, typical Venetian cuisine. Boasting an informal atmosphere, it is the perfect spot to relax with a soothing cocktail after a long day of sightseeing. €€€. Lido - Via E. Dandolo, 17. T: 041 2431663. Vaporetto 1, 2, 5.1, 5.2 (Lido stop). Map E3

Alla Madonna Established in 1954 and set in one of Venice’s most picturesque corners, the Rado family has run Alla Madonna since its inception. Its welcoming ambience, characterized by an ancient vineyard, provides the perfect backdrop for the typical regional cuisine served here. €€€. www. ristoranteallamadonna.com. San Polo, 594 (Calle della Madonna). T: 041 5223824. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E4

Antica Carbonera Homemade pasta, fresh fish and unusual decor: its interiors resemble those of the Miramar yacht that belonged to Franz Joseph II and Princess Sissi. A favourite haunt of artists, its charm and Venetian flavour have remained unaltered since it first opened in 1894. Standouts include its raw fish dishes and stewed cod fish with polenta. €€€. www. anticacarbonera.it. San Marco (Calle Bembo). T: 041 5225479. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4

Antiche Carampane A typical trattoria, in business for over a century, it has a friendly, convivial atmosphere. This is a go-to address for foodies and connoisseurs of fine dining. Its excellent menu, enhanced by the freshest, top quality ingredients is accompanied by an astute selection of wines. Closed on Sundays and Mondays. €€€. www. antichecarampane.com. San Polo, 1911. T: 041 5240165. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3

Antico Martini Located next to the La Fenice theatre, with its elegant dining rooms, welcoming atmosphere and attentive staff, the Antico Martini serves some of the best seafood in town. €€€. www. anticomartini.com. Campo Teatro Fenice 2007. T: 041 5224121. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).

Map E5

Map E4

Antico Pignolo

Al Colombo

The hand of owner Eligio Paties, is apparent in its beautifully laid tables and impeccable service. The traditional Venetian menu is accompanied by a wellstocked cellar boasting more than 900 labels from all over the world. €€€. www.anticopignolo.com. San Marco, 451 (Calle degli Specchieri). T: 041 5228123. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

A meeting point since 1986 for an international clientele, its menu maintains all the hallmark features of traditional Venetian cuisine. In summer, guests can dine outside under the romantic light of Venice’s street lamps. €€€. www.alcolombo.com. San Marco, 4619. T: 041 5222627. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3

Al Giardinetto da Severino Set against the magnificent backdrop of the 15th century Palazzo Zorzi, the restaurant is listed as an ‘historical establishment of Venice’ and its dining room still features a vaulted ceiling and a frescoed firedplace. Its menu offers the best of traditional Venetian cuisine: baccalà, Venetian-style liver,

Da Fiore A renowned Venetian restaurant that offers topnotch cuisine in a sophisticated, elegant setting. Thirty-five years ago, Mara and Maurizio Martin transformed an old osteria into one of the city’s most famous restaurants. Impeccable service and superlative Venetian dishes composed of carefully selected seasonal ingredients have

made Da Fiore a must-visit destination. Closed on Mondays. €€€. www.dafiore.net. San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3

Gran Canal Here you can taste the typical specialties of Venetian tradition, featuring the purest expression of taste and harmony. The restaurant’s main focus is on seafood and vegetables. Don’t miss a dinner on its evocative terrace: the restaurant faces directly onto the Grand Canal offering diners an excellent opportunity to combine the pleasures of the palate with a stunning view over Venice’s lagoon. Open: lunch 12.30pm-2.30pm, dinner 7.30pm-11.30pm €€€. www.hotelmonaco.it. c/o Hotel Monaco&Gran Canal. San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Map F5

Harry’s Bar Founded in the 1930s, this legendary bar is renowned for its Bellini cocktails (originally invented here) and for being the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of almost every famous name to visit Venice. Today, It is still a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice, a perfect opportunity to step back in time and savour its slightly retro and incredibly fascinating atmosphere. www. harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco, 1323 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto 1 (Rialto stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

Il Nuovo Galeon Located on via Garibaldi, near the Giardini della Biennale and just behind the Arsenal, this restaurant is mainly frequented by Venetians. A typical, family-run restaurant with an outdoor terrace (summer), its attractive interior is characterized by typical nautical décor, including the hull of a ‘bragozzo’, a typical fishing boat built by Crea, the famous Venetian rowing champion. €€€. www.ilnuovogaleon.com. Castello, 1308, T: 041 5204656. Vaporetto 5.1 or 5.2 (Giardini stop). Map H5

La Calcina Take a seat at its welcoming indoor dining room, or on the magnificent panoramic terrace overlooking the Giudecca Canal. At La Calcina you can savour traditional Venetian and Mediterranean dishes paired with wines selected from amongst the best Italian labels. Vegetarian meals are also served. €€€. www.lacalcina.com. c/o Hotel La Calcina. Dorsoduro, 780 (Zattere). T: 041 5206466. Vaporetto line 2 or 5.1 (Zattere stop). Map E6

La Conca d’Oro Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, La Conca d’Oro was established by Sicilian brothers Giuseppe and Giovanni Costa, the founders of the first pizzeria in Northern Italy. Since that time, this Venetian institution has been turning out some of the best pizza in town. € (pizzeria) - €€€ (restaurant). www.concadorovenice.com. Castello, 4338 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5229293. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 , 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

La Piscina Take a seat at its welcoming indoor dining room, or on the magnificent panoramic terrace overlooking the Giudecca Canal. At La Piscina you can savour traditional Venetian and Mediterranean dishes paired with wines selected w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 33

MICHELIN-STARRED RESTAURANTS from amongst the best Italian labels. Vegetarian meals are also served. €€€. www.lacalcina.com. c/o Hotel La Calcina. Dorsoduro, 780 (Zattere). T: 041 5206466. Vaporetto line 2 or 5.1 (Zattere stop). Map E6

Are you in search of a real Venetian tasting experience? Where® brings you a round-up of Michelin-starred restaurants for true connoisseurs of taste! By Stefania Vida

La Porta d’Acqua Set just steps from the Rialto Bridge, the restaurant is housed in a 15th century building and decorated with original frescoes dating back to 1700. Its cuisine conjures up the aroma of authentic Neapolitan cuisine, thanks to ingredients sourced exclusively from Campani. €€€. www.laportadacqua.it. San Polo, 1022/b (Rio Terà San Silvestro). T: 041 2412124. Vaporetto 1 (San Silvestro stop). Map E4

Lineadombra Osteria da Fiore Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco. T: 041 8521300 www.jwvenice.com Aptly named ‘Dopolavoro’, which means after work. The renowned name of Giancarlo Perbellini is behind this new restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private island - the Isola delle Rose, right out in the Venetian lagoon. After a day of business meetings or exploring Venice, enjoy delicious gourmet recipes with an individual flavour and skilful light touch - the true mark of a great chef. Off Map Glam c/o Palazzo Venart. Santa Croce, 1961. T: 041 5235676 www.palazzovenart.com/en/restaurant-bar Set within a secluded corner of Venice and located in a prime position overlooking the Grand Canal, the Glam is situated inside Palazzo Venart. The brainchild behind its menu is Enrico Bartolini, Italy’s youngest chef. Helmed by resident chef Donato Ascani, the restaurant serves traditional Venetian dishes upgraded with a futuristic twist and enriched with contemporary pairings that intensify the fabulous flavours of the Lagoon. Glam can host up to 40 guests indoors or al fresco. Map E3 Il Ridotto Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo, 4509. T: 041 5208280 www.ilridotto.com Located just steps from San Marco, Il Ridotto, 'reduced' in Italian, refers to the size of this tiny, gracious restaurant. The innovative menu employing traditional elements is revised daily, with the offerings tending toward lighter, but wonderfully tasty versions of classic dishes. A particular characteristic? It only has 9 tables. Map F4 Met Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149. T: 041 5240034 www.hotelmetropole.com Located inside the Metropole hotel, the Met Restaurant is a pioneer of a new concept targeted at promoting the Italian region. Its menu features recipes based on traditional Italian gastronomy served in two versions: either classical or upgraded with a creative twist, served in unusual but never excessive combinations. Its carefully prepared dishes are full of flavour and presented in a bright, colourful way. Map G4 34 W H E R E V E N I C E I SOECPTO TEM B EBRE R2018 2018

Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801 www.belmond.com A jewel in the crown of Belmond Hotel Cipriani, experience Venice’s top taste sensation at this enchanting Michelin-starred restaurant. Oro reflects the romantic spirit of Venice: take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant draws its name, and try the specialities inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6 Osteria da Fiore San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308 www.dafiore.net An Osteria only by name because this is actually an elegant, starred restaurant. Its cuisine ranges from the most authentic traditional flavours interpreted in a modern-day key (meaning that offerings tend to be lighter) to more unusual dishes invented by the chef, intended to be as close to nature as possible thanks to a great selection of highly sought-after seasonal ingredients. Ask for a wine recommendation from its excellent wine list which also features several international labels. Map E3 Quadri Piazza San Marco, 121. T: 041 5222105 www.alajmo.it A real institution of Venetian taste, starting from its decor. The restaurant – with the Quadrino and Grancaffè Quadri on the ground floor – has recently reopened after a major restoration by Philippe Stark: triumph of stucco, Murano glass and precious fabrics housed in one of the most photographed ‘palazzi’ in the city. Its menu features intriguing, creative dishes that are beautifully presented... without forgetting its spectacular view over piazza San Marco. Map F4 Venissa Fondamenta S. Caterina, 3 (Mazzorbo). T: 041 5272281 www.venissa.it On the one hand its vegetable gardens and vineyards, and, on the other, its cuisine featuring an intoxicating meld of locally sourced ingredients. Its bucolic surroundings serve as the ideal backdrop to its authentic, typically Venetian cuisine lovingly prepared by its four chefs who only use fresh, seasonal ingredients. Off Map

Perched on the last bridge of the most beautiful promenade in Venice, le Zattere, this is the perfect spot for a romantic dinner where you can enjoy all the typical flavours of the Venetian lagoon. €€€. www.ristorantelineadombra.com. Dorsoduro, 19. T: 041 2411881. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Zattere stop) or 1 (Salute stop). Map E5

Locanda Cipriani For those who want to be close to Venice, yet feel worlds away, the Locanda Cipriani is a superb, romantic hideaway. Featuring a simple yet evocative atmosphere, it is popular among knowledgeable gourmets as a fantastic restaurant. A farmhouse from the exterior, it has been renovated with great charm, exuding an understated elegance with beautiful country antiques and fresh flowers. €€€. www. locandacipriani.com. Piazza Santa Fosca 29 (Torcello island). T: 041 730150. Vaporetto line 12 from Fondamente Nove direction Burano, then take the 9 line). Off Map

Taverna al Remer Located near to the Rialto Bridge, this romantic ‘taverna’ is distinguished by its open-brick decor, which lends it an intimate, informal touch. Although the menu features simple, traditional dishes, it often surprises diners with unusual pairings. Closed on Wednesdays. €€€. www. alremer.it. Cannaregio, 5701. T. 041 5228789. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map F3

Trattoria Do Forni The owner Eligio Paties has managed to make this restaurant a sought-after destination, distinguished by its wide assortment of Venetian fare, thanks to the quality of the dishes and a genuine sense of typically Venetian hospitality. The dining spaces will remind you of the carriages of the legendary “Orient Express” and pay tribute to the history of Venice. €€€. www.doforni.it. San Marco, 468 (Calle dei Specchieri). T: 041 5232148. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4

Wildner Opened by the Fullin family in 1960, it is patronized by locals and tourists alike. Its tranquil, relaxed atmosphere is further enhanced by a spectacular view over the Basin of St. Mark’s. Its menu is mainly fish-based and serves classic Venetian specialties including ‘Baccalà Mantecato’ and ‘Sarde in Saor’. Closed on Tuesdays. €€€. c/o Pensione Wildner. Castello, 4161. T: 041 5227463. Vaporetto line 4.1 or 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4

DINING

Top hotel restaurants Where® highlights some culinary destinations to whet your appetite at several top hotels in Venice. By Stefania Vida

L’Alcova c/o Ca’ Sagredo Hotel. www.casagredohotel.com Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99. T: 041 2413111. Boasting a magnificent panoramic terrace over the Grand Canal and in front of the historic Rialto Market, it is ‘the’ temple of traditional Venetian cuisine for real connoisseurs. Map E3

Terrazza Danieli Acquerello c/o S. Clemente Palace Kempinski. www.kempinski.com Isola di San Clemente, 1. T: 041 4750111. Italian and Venetian tradition with creative and surprising combinations. Its view is as breathtaking as its food: the restaurant boasts a large terrace. Off Map Aman Venice Restaurant c/o Hotel Aman Venice. www.aman.com Palazzo Papadopoli. San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo). T: 041 2707333. A delightfully unique menu, thanks to several specialties created by starred Milanese chef Davide Oldani. Map E4 Antinoo’s c/o Centurion Palace Venezia. www.sinahotels.com Dorsoduro, 173. T: 041 34281. In addition to the à la carte menu you can also choose from a selection of typical gourmet Venetian dishes. Map E5 Aromi c/o Hilton Molino Stucky. www.molinostuckyhilton.it Giudecca, 810. T: 041 2723311. Here you can taste authentic Mediterranean cuisine. Summer terrace with a fabulous view over Venice and the Giudecca Canal. Map C6 Canova c/o Baglioni Hotel Luna. www.baglionihotels.com San Marco, 1243. T: 041 5289840. Menus and tastings featuring the best of traditional Venetian cuisine. All dishes are made using only the freshest, high-quality ingredients. Map F5 Club del Doge c/o The Gritti Palace. www.clubdeldoge.com Campo Santa Maria del Giglio. T: 041 794611. A welcoming ambience and authentic upscale cuisine make each culinary experience a truly special one. Map E5

De Pisis c/o Hotel Bauer Palazzo. www.bauervenezia.com San Marco, 1413/d. T: 041 5207022. For a romantic canal side dinner, set against the backdrop of the historic Basilica della Salute. Map F5 Do Leoni c/o Hotel Londra Palace. www.londrapalace.com Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni). T: 041 5200533. It combines the traditions of Venetian fare with more creative dishes Two atmospheric dining spaces: an indoor dining room and its summer Veranda. Map G4 Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa. www.jwvenice.com Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco. T: 041 8521300 The renowned name of Giancarlo Perbellini is behind this restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private island. Off Map Glam c/o Palazzo Venart. www.palazzovenart.com Santa Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron). T: 041 5233784. Chef Enrico Bartolini offers an interpretation of contemporary Italian cuisine and research-based use of locally-sourced Venetian ingredients. Map E3 Grand Canal c/o Hotel Monaco & Grand Canal San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. www.hotelmonaco.it A meeting place for gurus of the world of economy and finance, journalists and artists. Here you can enjoy the typical dishes of Venetian tradition, from the delicacies of the sea to the vegetables. Map F5 Il Giardino Segreto c/o Grand Hotel dei Dogi. www.dahotels.com Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto, 3500 (Calle Larga Piave). T: 041 2208110. In an elegant and intimate atmosphere, you can enjoy international specialties and delicacies of the Italian cuisine, created by highly skilled chefs. Map E1

La Caravella c/o Hotel Saturnia. www.restaurantlacaravella.com Calle Larga XXII Marzo, 2399. T: 041 5208901. Opened in 1963, it completes the services offered by the Hotel Saturnia with a touch of culinary excellence thanks to its fabulous Venetian cuisine updated with a contemporary, gourmet twist. Map E5 La Cusina c/o The Westin Europa & Regina. www.lacusina.it San Marco 2159. T: 041 2400001. The ideal place to enjoy a combination of taste and relaxation. Choose a table overlooking the Grand Canal to enjoy a panoramic view of the city, while savouring the restaurant’s seasonal dishes. Map E5 Le Maschere c/o Starhotels Splendid Venice. www.starhotels.com San Marco Mercerie, 760. T: 041 5200755. Here you can sample authentic Venetian cuisine, featuring both meat and fish-based dishes. A truly gourmet experience, guaranteed by its partnership with Eataly. Map F4 Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. www.belmond.com Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801. Take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant takes its name, and try the specialties inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6 Pisanino c/o Palazzetto Pisani. www.palazzettopisani.com San Marco, 2814. T: 041 5232550. Here you can savor refined Italian and gourmet food in a typically Venetian ambient. Particular events are often organized in this space. Map E5 Terrazza Danieli c/o Hotel Danieli. www.terrazzadanieli.com Riva degli Schiavoni, 4196. T: 041 5226480. A trip to discover traditional flavours. Exclusive gourmet experience, with a menu featuring locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. Don’t miss the breathtaking view over the lagoon. Map F4

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EXHIBITION VIEW OF “MACHINES À PENSER” - FONDAZIONE PRADA, VENICE PHOTO MATTIA BALSAMINI - COURTESY FONDAZIONE PRADA

SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

St. Mark’s, the soul of Venice Not only the most famous picture postcard of the city, and the great heart of Venice, St. Mark's is a heady mix of history, art and contradictions. The meeting with this unique city starts here... By Elena Binda

he great heart of Venice, the Basilica of San Marco is one of Italy’s and the world’s most recognizable (and photographed) landmarks and the city’s most important church. Its dazzling polychrome façade with its marbles and mosaics, spires and domes, and famous winged lion, the symbol of the city for centuries, is revealed in all of its glory. The interior, featuring an abundance of exquisitely gilded Byzantine mosaics, is definitely worth a visit. A visit to its Museum and treasury, located on the upper floor, is a not-tobe-missed highlight. While in the area, make sure to ascend to the top of its bell tower, which offers superb views over the city. The Basilica of San Marco is a Catholic church that welcomes worshippers and tourists alike. 36 W H E R E V E N I C E I O C TO B E R 2018

This is a place of worship and on entering visitors are asked to respect the rules: appropriate clothing must be worn, taking photographs is forbidden and visitors are asked to lower their voices at all times. The church is open daily for prayer and at certain times or on certain days it is entirely given over to religious ceremonies and visits are suspended. For reasons of safety, heavy luggage must be left outside (luggage can be deposited in Ateneo San Basso, in Piazzetta dei Leoncini, in front of the Porta dei Fiori, north facade). >> Basilica di San Marco San Marco, 328 T: 041 2708311 www.basilicasanmarco.it

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/VENICE

ATTRACTIONS & MONUMENTS Basilica del Redentore Based on a project by the famous architect Andrea Palladio, the Basilica was built in 1577 on the island of Giudecca. It contains works by Tintoretto, Veronese and other important Venetian artists. It was built to celebrate the deliverance from the Black Death, which killed one third of the population. To commemorate the end of the plague, a solemn festival is still held at the church on the third Sunday of July. www.chorusvenezia. org. Campo Redentore (Giudecca). T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 41 and 2 (Redentore stop). Map E6

Basilica di San Marco This is the most important Catholic church in the city, and one of the most important monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. The famous winged lion, a symbol of the city and of the ancient ‘Venetian Republic’ is depicted on its pediment. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. You might have to queue for a time to get inside, but your wait will be well worthwhile. Although admission is free, you will have to pay to see several specific sights. In order not to miss your visit, be sure to inform yourself about the opening hours, as they are often subject to change. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am4pm; Sun (and Public Holidays) 2pm-4pm. www. basilicasanmarco.it. San Marco, 328. T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

Campanile di San Marco (Bell Tower) This 98.6 metre bell tower is affectionately known to the Venetians as ‘el paron de casa’ (the master of the house) because it dominates the city, observing everything that lies below it. Resting lightly on the exquisite Loggetta del Sansovino, it has a particularly recognizable shape and a rich history. The original medieval bell tower was modified several times, and rebuilt entirely when it unexpectedly collapsed in 1902. It is worth going up to the tower, to enjoy a breathtaking view over the city. Although admission is not free, it is often included in joint tickets. Opening times are subject to change. T: 041 5225205. Vaporetto lines 1,2 (San Marco stop).

Cannaregio This is one of the most densely populated Sestieri in Venice, and, regardless of where you happen to be staying, this district is well worth a visit. A classic, picture-postcard neighbourhood, it is characterized by labyrinthine streets and canals, gondoliers wearing striped vests, stalls and painters sitting at their easels. Everyone adores Venice on its looks alone, but once in Cannaregio you’ll fall for its personality.

Chiesa and Scuola Grande di San Rocco A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures, including an impressive number of works by Tintoretto as well those by Tiepolo and Giorgione. Opening hours subject to change www. scuolagrandesanrocco.org. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Ghetto di Venezia Although documentation chronicles the presence of a Jewish community in Venice from before the year 1000, it was only during the 6th century, due to political unrest in Europe and a significant increase in non-Christian immigrants that, for the first time, the Venetian Senate, issued a decree stating that the Jewish population should move to a specific part of the city, where they could be better ‘controlled’. Thus Jews were forced to move to this, then, remote northwestern corner of Venice, to an abandoned site of a 14th-century foundry (‘ghetto’ is old Venetian dialect for "foundry," a word that would soon be used throughout Europe and the world to depict an area where isolated minority groups lived. The Venetian Ghetto nevertheless became a thriving, vibrant district. In 1797, when Napoleon rolled into town, the ghetto was disbanded as an institution, and Jews were free to move elsewhere. Today it is still the center of Venice's ever-diminishing

community of Jewish families. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1 (Ponte Guglie stop). Map D2

Palazzo Ca’ Vendramin Calergi (Casinò di Venezia) Overlooking the Grand Canal, this building houses the oldest casino in the world. An age-old destination, for aristocratic travelers from both East and West, Venice was the first city in the world to open a gaming house way back in 1683. Today its old-world ambience continues to play host to several of the world’s most classical games. The casino is open to everyone aged 18 and over and proper attire is required. www.casinovenezia.it. Cannaregio, 2040 (Calle Colombina). Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marcuola stop). Map E3

Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square) Known throughout the world, this square is the heart of Venice and its most symbolic landmark. It consists of a central, trapezoid-shaped unit integrated with other areas. Measuring 170 metres in length, it faces directly onto the water and is surrounded by several magnificent stately buildings. Its incalculable scenic beauty makes it one of the most widelyphotographed places in the world. The best thing to do here is to look around and exult, but don’t forget that the square has a number of specific landmark sites, whose interiors can also be visited: the Basilica of San Marco (see listing), the Bell Tower (see listing), Palazzo Ducale (see Museums listings), the Clock Tower (see listing) and some 18th century cafés, the Florian and the Quadri, to mention the best-known... Vaporetto lines, 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs) The Bridge of Sighs is a Baroque bridge that, by crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from which its name derives are not those of lovers, but those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. Open daily 8.30am- 7pm. www. palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 31024 (piazza

Canal Grande (Grand Canal) Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the main waterway of Venice and much more. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels, and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. For centuries, the Canal has witnessed lavish parties and workshop events, religious processions, capital executions, historical regattas and epidemics. Those visiting Venice should dedicate a few hours to a cruise on the Canal, not only for the pleasure of this experience, but because it offers several of the best panoramic views of Venetian palaces. It is is almost impossible to list all of them, but for more information you can visit the www. canalgrandevenezia.it website. For excursions and boat cruises visit www.canalgrande.it, or ask your concierge.

PALAZZO GRASSI Renovated by Japanese architect Tadao Ando (also responsible (for the restoration of Punta della Dogana), it showcases the extraordinary Pinault Collection and features personal and collective exhibitions. www.palazzograssi.it

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MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

San Marco). T:041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1,2, (San Marco stop). Map F4

Ponte di Rialto (Rialto Bridge) This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Witness to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it (shutterbugs permitting), but even more spectacular when seen from the water, perhaps aboard a gondola. Originally built during medieval times as a pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto Market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. Unfortunately, it is not accessible to everyone; between upward and downward slopes, it includes as many as 120 steps. San Polo, 30125 (access from Ruga dei Oresi or from Salizada Pio X). Vaporetto linea 1,2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

San Giorgio Maggiore Boasting a monastery and an adjoining museum (see Museum listings), the church of San Giorgio Maggiore sits on the little island of San Giorgio Maggiore across from St. Mark's square. One of the masterpieces of Andrea Palladio, the church, and the entire complex, which holds a number of marvelous surprises including a maze, is worth visiting. This small island, that is a part of the panorama that can be enjoyed from St. Mark's square, is separated from the Giudecca by the lagoon island of La Grazia. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 5227827. Vaporetto line 2 (San Giorgio stop). Map G5

Santa Maria della Salute (Church of the Virgin Mary of Good Health) Generally referred to as “La Salute,” this crown jewel of 17th-century baroque architecture proudly stands at a commercially and aesthetically important point, almost directly opposite the Piazza San Marco, where the Grand Canal empties into the lagoon. Designed by Longhena, whose work was influenced by Palladio, it was constructed to honor the Virgin Mary for delivering Venice from the plague of 1630. On 21 November each year, a popular religious celebration, marking the official end of the Black Death, is held here. The church is also famous for its organ concerts. Open daily 9am-12noon/3pm5.30pm. www.basilicasalutevenezia.it. Fondamenta Salute, 30123. T: 041 2743911. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map E5

Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari Known by the Venetians simply as ‘i Frari’, this landmark features 17 monumental altars and is the largest church in the city. This medieval church in Gothic-Venetian style, houses, in addition to two paintings by Titian, the tombs and funerary monuments of numerous famous people, including Titian, Monteverdi and Canova. chorusvenezia.org. Campo dei Frari. T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 1, 2, N (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Santi Giovanni e Paolo One of the city’s most important examples of medieval architecture, Santi Giovanni e Paolo is considered the Pantheon of Venice because all the Venetian doges, starting from the 13th century, are buried here, together with numerous other notable personages. www.basilicasantigiovanniepaolo.it. Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo (Please note: this site might be marked in Venetian dialect as ‘san ZaniPolo’ on the city’s maps). T: 041 5235913. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Fondamente Nove stop, Ospedale Civile stop). Map F3

Scala Contarini del Bovolo Palazzo Contarini is an exquisite, late Gothic 38 W H E R E V E N I C E I O C TO B E R 2018

building. However, what makes it such a popular attraction today, was the addition, by its architects, in 1499, of an amazing, external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. Open Tues-Sun: 10am1.30pm/2pm-6pm. www.scalacontarinidelbovolo. com. c/o Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo. San Marco, 4299 (Campo Manin, Rio San Luca). T: 041 3096605. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map E4

Scuola Grande dei Carmini Housed in a 16th century palazzo, it is the seat of an ancient brotherhood and all its original furnishing and a number of priceless oil paintings have been preserved intact. The drama builds when entering the Sala del Capitolo, whose ceiling features nine exceptional canvases painted by the brotherhood’s most famous member, Giambattista Tiepolo. Open daily 11am-5pm. www.scuolagrandecarmini.it. Dorsoduro, 2616 (Campo dei Carmini, Campo Santa Margherita). T: 041 5289420. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop).

Teatro La Fenice Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only strongly associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it is also a stunning feat of architecture. teatrolafenice. it. Ticket office T: 041 2424. San Marco, 1965 (Campo San Fantin). Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E4

The islands Although the whole of Venice lies on an archipelago, an ‘excursion to the islands’ generally means a half-day cruise on a boat to visit the islands of Murano, Torcello and Burano, three charming, small islands, rich in history and tradition. Murano is famous throughout the world for its hand-blown glass (artisanal workshops still display glassmakers at work). Torcello, birthplace of the lagoon, once a thriving town with 8,000 inhabitants, is today a semirural island with only 17 permanent residents and two medieval churches that speak poignantly of past glories, and Burano, one of the most photographed sights in the world, thanks to colourful houses reflected in its canals. Burano is also famous for its artisanal lace work and a particular kind of biscuit, which also resembles lace. Find out more and buy tickets for your trip to these magical destinations. Visitors love these islands, and there may be a risk of not finding a seat on the boat. See Map page 62.

MUSEUMS & EXHIBITION SITES Ca’ Pesaro-International Gallery of Modern Art Hosts important 19th and 20th century collections of paintings and sculptures, including masterpieces by Klimt and Chagall as well as noteworthy oeuvres by the likes of Kandinsky, Klee, Matisse and Moore. Other highlights include a rich selection of works by Italian artists and an important selection of graphics. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10. www.capesaro.visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 2076. Vaporetto line 2 (San Stae stop). Map E3

Ca’ Rezzonico-Museum of Eighteenth Century Venetian Art The large staircase of this magnificent palazzo leads to several elegant rooms housing paintings, sculptures and 18th century furnishings (first floor): the ‘Portego dei dipinti’ featuring canvases by Canaletto, a room dedicated to Longhi and the frescoes painted by Giandomenico Tiepolo detached from the walls of Villa Zianigo (second floor); the rooms of the Farmacia Ai do San Marchi and the exquisite Pinacoteca Egidio Martini (third floor). Alternately, the Browning Mezzanine houses the works of the Mestrovich Collection, including works by artists like Tintoretto and Bonifacio de’ Pitati. Closed on Tues, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10. www.carezzonico. visitmuve.it. Dorsoduro 3136 (Fondamenta Rezzonico). T: 041 2410100. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). Map D5

This 17th century violin belonging to Martinus Kaiser is one of the priceless masterpieces preserved at the MUSEO QUERINI STAMPALIA.

Casa di Carlo Goldoni Palazzo Centanni, at San Polo, is the house where Carlo Goldoni was born in 1707. It houses a small museum dedicated to revered Italian playwright Carlo Goldoni, a puppet theatre boasting original 18th century puppets as well as a number of other features that have been updated for educational purposes, including paintings and 18th century artifacts. Other must-visit attractions include the archives and the library of theatre studies which boasts more than 30,000 books and authentic manuscripts. Open from 1 April to 31 October: 10am-5pm; from 1 November to 31 March: 10am4pm (last admission 3.30pm). Closed on Wed, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €5. www. carlogoldoni.visitmuve.it. San Polo 2794. T: 041 2759325. Vaporetto lines 1 and 2 (San Tomà stop).

Casa Museo Andrich-Modern Art Gallery and Historic Garden The house of the two artists, Clementina and Lucio Andrich, testifies to the artistic vibrancy of Venice between the 1950s and the 1980s. Silks, tapestries, glass, sculptures, paintings, engravings, mosaics and furniture are displayed on a rotational basis and can be admired during a guided tour. Set in an 11,000 square meter orchard-garden, inhabited by herons and flamingoes from March to September, Casa Andrich overlooks the beautiful lagoon landscape of Torcello. Open daily. Guided tours in Italian, English and French are conducted at 10am-11am; 2.30pm-3.30pm; 4.30pm-5.30pm. Visits must be booked online (www.veneziaunica.it). Ticket pricing varies based on the type of visit chosen.

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

www.museoandrich.it. Isola di Torcello, 4/L (Ve). T: 347 2391861. Vaporetto line 12.

Fondazione Bevilacqua La Masa

| SIGHTSEEING

Peggy Guggenheim Collection

The Foundation, which has 4 spaces in Venice, serves as a launch pad for projects devoted to photography, design, graphics and applied arts. In addition to awarding prizes and scholarships, it also offers under 35 artists a chance annually, to set up ateliers, free-of-charge, at its Palazzo Carminati (San Stae) and SS. Cosma e Damiano (Giudecca) spaces. Palazzetto Tito, the headquarters of the Foundation’s archives and offices, promotes the catalogues of collective and personal exhibitions, while the space dedicated to exhibitions is located in St. Mark’s Square, under the arcades of Procuratie Nuove. www. bevilacqualamasa.it. Palazzetto Tito, Dorsoduro, 2826. T: 041 5207797. La Galleria di Piazza San Marco, San Marco, 71/c (Procuratie Nuove). T: 041 5237819. Palazzo Carminati, Santa Croce 1882/a. Complesso di SS. Cosma e Damiano, Giudecca 620.

Fondazione Cini-San Giorgio Maggiore Set against the magnificent backdrop of the Basin of St Mark, the Foundation was established in 1951 by Count Vittorio Cini to restore the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore and to create an international centre of cultural activities. The Foundation is housed in the monumental complex of the former Benedictine Monastery of San Giorgio Maggiore, a place of inestimable architectural and artistic prestige, thanks to works by several of Italy’s greatest 16th and 17th century masters. Enlarged in the 16th century by Andrea Palladio, who also designed its refectory, the church of San Giorgio Maggiore and the Cloister of Cypresses, in addition to numerous other treasures, the complex hosts an impressive collection of paintings by Jacopo Tintoretto, as well as several 16th and 17th century works of arts. Guided tours in Italian, English and French on Saturdays and Sundays. For information and booking T: 041 2201215. Full price ticket €10. www.cini.it. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 2710280. Vaporetto line 2 (Isola di San Giorgio stop). Map G6

Gallerie dell'Accademia di Venezia

VENETIAN MUSEUM HUB Following a Napoleonic decree, the Gallerie dell'Accademia were instituted as an educational adjunct to the Academy of Fine Arts. They host the most important collection of Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo, and works by several important landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The monumental complex hosting these works occupies the ancient church of Santa Maria della Carità, the Scuola Grande della Carità and the Canonici Lateranensi convent complex designed by Andrea Palladio in 1561. Open Mon 8.15am-2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Full ticket price: €9. Ticket pricing may vary during temporary exhibitions. www. gallerieaccademia.it. Dorsoduro 1050 (Campo della Carità). T: 041 5222247. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop). Map D5

Galleria Giorgio Franchetti alla Ca' d'Oro The Ca' d'Oro, an ancient 15th century Patrician dwelling, hosts the art collections that were donated to the State by Baron Giorgio Franchetti.

Located on the left-hand side of the Grand Canal, just beyond the Church of the Madonna della Salute, you will come across a building that seems strange and unfinished, but is also elegant and welltended. The Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, formerly home to the prominent and powerful Venier family, was originally planned to become one of the most sumptuous buildings in Venice. Construction of the palazzo began in or around 1748, but was halted after only one floor was completed. Undeterred by its rather sketchy shape, and upon seeing the palazzo with its beautiful garden, eccentric American heiress Peggy Guggenheim, a lover of modern art, la dolce vita and men, fell in love with it. She purchased Palazzo Venier in 1948, and moved in with her collection of

THE HEIRESS AND HER LOVE FOR ART The niece of Solomon R. Guggenheim, Peggy was born in New York in 1898 into a wealthy Jewish family. Following the death of her father on the Titanic in 1912, Peggy Guggenheim inherited a small fortune, becoming one of the richest women in America. She lived between Paris and London. She became a patron of the arts and a collector of contemporary art. Peggy was always surrounded by artists and lovers: she married the writer and Dadaist painter Laurence Vail and then Surrealist artist Max Ernst. After opening an art gallery in London and another in New York, in 1948 Peggy was invited to exhibit her collection of paintings at the Biennale of Venice. She fell in love with the city where she spent the rest of her life.

contemporary art, subsequently opening both the palazzo and her extraordinary collection of artworks to the public. In 1980, after her death, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection was bequeathed to the Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation, which also manages the Solomon R. Guggenheim in New York and the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao. In 1985, Palazzo Venier dei Leoni was officially converted into a museum. Today, thanks to its 20th century collection of art, it is considered one of the most important museums in Europe. The collection includes masterpieces of Cubism, Futurism, European Abstractism, American Abstract Surrealism and Expressionism, as well as works by illustrious artists like Picasso, Pollock, Kandinsky, Miró, de Chirico and Dalí. It also hosts prestigious temporary exhibitions.

She died in 1979 and her ashes are buried in a corner of the garden of Palazzo Venier dei Leoni.

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SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

These include period furnishing, tapestries, paintings, sculptures and bronzes. Its current collection features a mixture of Renaissance works from the Lombard, Venetian, Reggio Emilia and Flemish schools, as well as masterpieces like Andrea Mantegna’s renowned St. Sebastian. An interesting collection of ceramic relics from the Venetian lagoon are housed at Ca' Duodo, the building lying adjacent to Ca’ d’Oro. Open Mon 8.15am-2pm (last admission 1.30pm); Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm (last admission 6.30pm). Closed 1 January, 1 May, 25 December. Full ticket price: €6. Ticket pricing may vary during temporary exhibitions www.cadoro.org. Cannaregio, 3932 (Strada Nuova). T: 041 5200345. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop).

Museo Archeologico Nazionale Housed with the Correr Museum and the Marciana Library in the rooms of the Procuratie Nuove in St. Mark’s Square, the museum boasts an extraordinary collection of Greek and Roman sculptures as well as a noteworthy selection of ancient coins, gems and cameos, bronze artifacts and pottery. Other highlights include Egyptian and Assyrian-Babylonian antiques and priceless finds of late antiquity. > The museum is included in the ‘Museums of St. Mark's Square’ itinerary: single ticket (19€) for Palazzo Ducale, Museo Correr, Museo Archeologico Nazionale, and the Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana. Open daily, from 1 April to 31 October: 10am-7pm (last admission 6pm); from 1 November to 31 March: 10am-5pm. Closed on 25 December and 1 January. www.polomuseale. venezia. beniculturali. it. Entrance and ticket office: Correr Museum, San Marco 52 (piazzetta San Marco). T: 041 2967663. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop).

Museo Correr The museum is located in the old Royal Palace in St. Mark’s Square and includes the Napoleonic Wing and the Procuratie Nuove. Built to house Teodoro Correr’s collection, it features several exhibition spaces dedicated to the art and history of Venice. These include the neo-classical rooms housing sculptures by Antonio Canova, historic collections describing the changing cityscape of Venice and, finally, the pinacoteca, boasting

The 'Bagnante' bronze sculpture by Max Klinger (1897) is part of the prestigious collection of CA’ PESARO.

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important masterpieces of Venetian art from its origins to the 16th century. Open daily. www.correr.visitmuve. it. San Marco 52 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2405211. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso stop or, San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 - 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Museo d'Arte Orientale-Ca’ Pesaro The museum, located on the top floor of the Galleria Internazionale d’Arte Moderna, is housed in an ancient building on the Grand Canal designed by Baldassare Longhena for the Pesaro family. Here, you will find one of the most important collections in the world of Japanese art from the Edo period: more than 30,000 pieces including swords and daggers, Japanese armour, delicate lacquer ware palanquin and priceless porcelain. Other highlights include extensive sections dedicated to Chinese and Indonesian art. Open from 1 April to 31 October: 10am-6pm (last admission 5pm); from 1 November to 31 March: 10am-5pm. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket (integrated with the International Gallery of Modern Art) €10. www.arteorientale.org. Santa Croce, 2076. T: 041 5241173. Vaporetto linea 2 (San Stae stop)

Museo del Merletto (Lace Museum) Located in Burano, the museum is housed in a small building, formerly home to Venice’s famous Lace School. Boasting more than two-hundred rare, priceless pieces, the exhibition chronicles the evolution of the art of lace-making in Venice from the 16th to 20th centuries. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €5. Joint ticket for the Glass Museum and the Lace Museum €12. www. museomerletto.visitmuve.it. Piazza Galuppi 187, Burano. T: 041 730034. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2, 5.2 (Fondamenta Nove stop), and then line 12 (Burano stop). Off Map

Museo del Vetro (Glass Museum) Housed in the aristocratic palazzo Giustinian, on the island of Murano, the collections exhibited at the museum are arranged in chronological order: in addition to the archaeological section featuring Roman remains from the 1st and 2nd centuries A.D., you can also find an extensive range of historical objet d’art made from Murano glass, including important pieces produced between the 15th and 20th centuries. Open daily. Full price ticket €10. Joint ticket for the Glass Museum + Lace Museum €12. www.museovetro.visitmuve.it. Fondamenta Giustinian, 8. Murano. T: 041 5274718. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2 (Museo Murano stop). Off Map

Museo di Icone The museum is owned by the Hellenic Institute of Byzantine and Post-Byzantine Studies of Venice and is located on the first floor of the Confraternita dei Greci (Scoletta di San Nicolò, designed by Baldassare Longhena in the 17th century). It houses approximately 80 Byzantine and post-Byzantine icons dating from the 14th through 18th centuries, as well as illuminated codes, sacred garments embroidered in gold and small artisanal artifacts of considerable historic and artistic value. Open daily from 9am-5pm. www.istitutoellenico.org/museo. Castello 3412 (Campo dei Greci). T: 041 5226581. Vaporetto lines 1, 2, 4.1, 5.1, 14, 15, 19, 20 (San Zaccaria stop).

Museo di Storia Naturale Housed in the Palazzo del Fondaco dei Turchi on the Grand Canal, its original, contemporary

layout is divided into three sections each of which is, in actual fact, a museum within a museum. Its collection includes more than two million pieces: zoological and paleontological collections, ancient herbariums, plant and fish fossils, a collection of minerals, a wunderkammer (cabinet of curiosities) housing more than 2,000 examples of different animal parts and a Venetian fish tank. Open from 1 June to 31 October: 10am-6pm (last admission 5pm); from 1 November to 31 May: 9am-5pm. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €8. www.msn.visitmuve. it. Santa Croce 1730 (Fondaco dei Turchi). T: 041 2750206. Vaporetto line 1 (San Stae stop).

Museo Ebraico di Venezia

JEWISH MUSEUM This a ‘dispersed museum’; a highly unusual urban complex that includes the museum itself, the Ghetto, synagogues and an ancient cemetery. It contains a small but precious collection of artifacts related to the long history of the Jews in Venice. Thanks to guided tours (in Italian and English), you can visit three of the area’s five historic synagogues, located between the Ghetto Vecchio (Old Ghetto) and the Ghetto Nuovo (New Ghetto), and the Old Cemetery (16th-18th century) in San Nicolò del Lido. Finally, to commemorate the tragedy of the Second World War, there is a bronze relief Holocaust Memorial in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo. Full price ticket €4; Jewish Museum + guided tour of the synagogues : full price ticket €10. www. museoebraico.it. Cannaregio 2902\b. T: 041 71535. Vaporetto lines 1-2 (San Marcuola-Ghetto stop), lines 41-42-51-52 (Ponte delle Guglie-Ghetto stop). Map D2

Museo Querini Stampalia The Querini Stampalia house-museum is an opulent patrician dwelling located on the ‘piano nobile’ of a 16th century palazzo, and features several unusual architectural elements designed by Carlo Scarpa, Valeriano Pastor and Mario Botta. Works displayed include paintings by Giovanni Bellini, Jacopo Palma the Elder and the Younger, Bernardo Strozzi, Marco and Sebastiano Ricci, Giambattista Tiepolo, Pietro Longhi and Gabriel Bella. In addition to the museum, the complex also has a library and a space dedicated to contemporary art exhibitions. Open Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. Closed on Mondays. Museum and Display Areas full ticket price €10; Scarpa Area full ticket price €8. www.querinistampalia.it. Castello, 5252 (Santa Maria Formosa). T: 041 2711411. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (Rialto stop), lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1, 5.2, 7, 20 (San Zaccaria stop).

Museo Vedova-Magazzino del Sale The objective of the Emilio and Annabianca Vedova Foundation is to promote the art and work of artist Emilio Vedova with a series of cultural initiatives (research, exhibitions, educational activities, conventions, study grants and awards). Its two permanent exhibition spaces, used to showcase works by the latter, also host temporary exhibitions and events on a rotational basis: the Magazzino del Sale 266 – based on a project by Renzo Piano – and the former Studio Vedova. Open 10.30am-6pm. Closed on Tuesdays, 25 December. Full price ticket €8; www.fondazionevedova.org. Magazzino del Sale Dorsoduro 266 (Zattere). Spazio Vedova –Ticket Office and Bookshop Dorsoduro 50 (Zattere). T: 041 2410833. Vaporetto line 1 (Accademia stop or Salute stop), 2 (Accademia stop), 5.1/5.2 (Spirito Santo stop), 6 (Zattere stop).

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Palazzo Cini-La Galleria Situated in the Venetian 'Museums Mile', between the Accademia, the Peggy Guggenheim collection and the Punta della Dogana, the 16th century Palazzo Cini in San Vio is the house-museum of Count Vittorio Cini, and houses some remarkable art collections: 14th-15th century paintings from Tuscany and Ferraro (Piero della Francesca, Filippo Lippi, Dosso Dossi and Cosmè Tura), period furniture, silverware, ivories and ceramics. Closed on Tuesdays. Full price ticket €10. www.palazzocini.it. Dorsoduro 864 (San Vio). T: 041 2710217. Vaporetto Lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop), lines 2, 4, 5, 6 (Zattere stop). Map E5

Palazzo Ducale A landmark attraction, a masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, the Ducal Palace features a number of different architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it not only houses temporary exhibitions but can also be visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. The public entrance to the Doge’s Palace is through the ‘Porta del Frumento’ which leads to the spacious council rooms and then onwards to the exquisite rooms of the Doge’s Apartment. Other highlights on this route include the prisons and loggias overlooking the square and the lagoon. Open daily. www.palazzoducale. visitmuve.it. San Marco, 1 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti), 5.1 or 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Palazzo Mocenigo-Centro Studi di Storia del Tessuto e del Costume Formerly a patrician residence, in 1985 it became the Study Centre of the History of Fabrics and Costumes. Its exhibition spaces explore various aspects of the lives and activities of Venetian aristocrats between the 17th and 18th centuries. The exhibits on display include opulent garments and olden-day accessories, with a section dedicated to perfume. The palazzo’s furnishings and paintings have been integrated with a number of works originating from the warehouses of Venice’s civic museums. Open from 1 April to 31 October: 10am-5pm; from 1 November to 31 March: 10am-4pm. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €8. www.mocenigo.visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 1992. T: 041 721798. Vaporetto line 1 (San Stae stop).

Scuola Grande di San Rocco The headquarters of the San Rocco Brotherhood, this stunning building, to which hardly any modifications have been made, hosts more than 60 masterpieces by artists of the likes of Giorgione, Tiepolo and Titian, still presented in their original layout. Its establishment represented an important moment in the history of 16th century Venetian art, above all thanks to Tintoretto’s famous cycle of Old and New Testament scenes. Open daily, 9.30am5.30pm. Closed on 25 December and 1 January. Full

| SIGHTSEEING

price ticket €10; Scuola Grande + church €8. www. scuolagrandesanrocco.it. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco stop). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Torre dell’Orologio (Clock Tower) The Clock or Mori Tower dates back to the 15th century and is one of Venice’s most famous architectural attractions. Like a triumphal arch, it dominates the entrance from St. Mark’s Square to the city’s shop-filled Mercerie (from the word ‘Merchandise’). If you stand close up, you can observe the complex mechanisms of this large astrological clock, a masterpiece of technology and engineering. After climbing the spiral staircase, you emerge onto its terraces from which you can enjoy a magnificent view over St. Mark’s Square. Admission subject to reservation, with an expert tour guide. (T: 848 082000 Mon-Fri 9am-1pm/2pm6pm; Sat 9am-2pm; www.torreorologio.visitmuve. it). Children under 6 not admitted. Tours in English: Mon-Wed 10am and 11am, Thurs-Sun 2pm and 3pm. Tours in French: Mon-Wed 2pm and 3pm, Thurs-Sun 10am and 11am. Closed 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €12. www.torreorologio.visitmuve.it. Piazza San Marco. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 or 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop).

Palazzo Fortuny

PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Mariano Fortuny (Granada 1871 - Venice 1949) transformed Palazzo Pesaro degli Orfei into his own personal atelier for photography, set-design, textile creations and paintings. The museum’s collections boasts pieces and materials commissioned for important projects: paintings, lighting systems, photography and ornate garments. The building is now used to host art exhibitions. The museum is open only during temporary exhibitions. Open 10am-6pm. Closed on Tuesdays. www.fortuny. visitmuve.it. San Marco 3958 (Campo San Benedeto). T: 041 5200995. Vaporetto line 1 (Sant’Angelo stop), 2 (San Samuele stop). Map E4

Palazzo Grassi Punta della Dogana Overlooking the Grand Canal and recently restored by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, Venice’s 18th century Palazzo Grassi and the former harbour of Punta della Dogana are two contemporary art museums funded by the François Pinault Foundation. They host important collective or monographic exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault Collection, one of the world’s largest collections of contemporary art. Palazzo Grassi’s ‘Teatrino’, an adjunct to the exhibition spaces, offers an action packed calendar of conferences, concerts and screenings of an international scope. Open daily 10am-7pm. Closed on Tuesdays, 25 December. Full price ticket €18 (Punta della Dogana+Palazzo Grassi). www. palazzograssi.it. T: 041 2001057. Palazzo Grassi San Marco 3231 (Campo San Samuele). Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop), 1 (Sant’Angelo stop). Map D4 • Museo Punta della Dogana Dorsoduro 2. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map F5

The phenomenon of 'acqua alta'

Acqua alta (High Water) is a Venetian phenomenon that involves the entire city when either the planetary tides – the Scirocco wind and wave motion in the Adriatic, or a combination of all these elements – cause an increased flow of water into Venice’s lagoon. When this happens, the city is flooded. While causing tourists serious inconvenience, the ‘acqua alta’ is not at all like the experience described in the horror stories that do the rounds each winter. For a city built on water, it’s a way of life and even a one-of-a-kind experience. If you happen to be in Venice on an ‘acqua alta’ day (on average, it occurs once every three years) invest in a pair of wellies, arm yourself with a camera and explore the city to your heart’s content. Information and updates on www.comune.venezia.it/maree.

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ENTERTAINMENT

"La fiaba di Amore e Psiche"

Caffè Paradiso gets a new identity Lavazza has updated the historic Caffè Paradiso’s image with a restoration project that focuses on coffee, food, art and culture. By Giulia Minero

othing encourages social engagement and conviviality more than a cup of coffee. Based on this philosophy, Lavazza has chosen Venice – one of Italy’s greatest art cities – to launch a new architectural project focusing on the culture of coffee and its distribution. The mission of this project was to renovate and revamp the city’s historic Caffè Paradiso. It was entrusted to architect Cino Zucchi and product designer Elena Samastra. At first sight the café looks like small, elegant yellow building, no different from it original appearance, that overlooks the Giardini della Biennale, where an international crowd, sharing a passion for architecture, gathers each year. But there’s more to Caffè Paradiso than meets the eye. 42 W H E R E V E N I C E I O C TO B E R 2018

The space houses the Paradiso restaurant and a bar built around a counter consisting of small mirrors, ground to resemble a harlequin’s costume, paying tribute to the traditional technique of Venetian craftsmanship. The effect is highlighted by graphics, based on the deconstruction of the coffee plant, in a reference to the Lavazza brand. Following the renovation of Caffè Paradiso, Lavazza has strengthened its ties with Venice, promoting initiatives and artistic and cultural projects, in partnership with the Lagoon’s main museums. >> Giardini della Biennale - Castello, 1260 T: 041 2413972. www.lavazza.it

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/VENICE

CONCERT VENUES & THEATRES Teatro Goldoni The Goldoni Theater is the oldest theater in Venice. Built by the Vendramin family in 1622, it was originally named after them. Its high point came in 1752, when it engaged Carlo Goldoni, the city’s most important dramatist at that time. It was renovated several times, first in 1818 and subsequently in 1933 and in 1979. In addition to Verona’s Teatro Nuovo and Padua’s Teatro Verdi, the Goldoni Theater is now managed by the Teatro Stabile di Veneto. ON SHOW Don’t miss the “Arlecchino Furioso” perfomance, an original comedy written in the classical canon of the ‘Commedia dell’Arte” - an art form whose colours and masks have conveyed the vitality of popular tradition for more than four centuries. Supertitles in French and English. Until 21 October. www. teatrostabiledelveneto.it. San Marco, 4650/B. T: 041 2402011. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto stop). Map E4

Teatro La Fenice

UNMISSABLE Located in the Sestiere San Marco, La Fenice Opera House is the one of the most legendary opera houses in Italy. Twice destroyed by fire (1836 and 1996) and twice restored to its former splendour, for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, symphonies and the International Festival of Contemporary Music. In the 19th century, it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Gioachino Rossini, Vincenzo Bellini, Gaetano Donizetti and Giuseppe Verdi, while in the 20th century it became a focal point for contemporary productions. www. teatrolafenice.it. The theater is generally open daily for tours from 9.30am to 6pm. Full ticket: 10 €. The ticket price includes an audio guide, available in 5 languages (Italian, English, German, French and Spanish). San Marco, 4387 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 786672. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map E5

air opera house, is located in Verona’s historic centre (115 km from Venice). Each summer, since 1913, it hosts a famous opera festival featuring must-see performances and internationally renowned stars. www.arena.it. Verona, piazza Bra 1. T: 045 8005151, 5873. Off Map

WELLNESS Grand Hotel dei Dogi Spa Elegance, style and design blend to create a regenerating oasis, the ideal place for a one-of-akind pampering experience offering a rich program of wellness and body treatments. c/o Grand Hotel dei Dogi. www.dahotels.com. Cannaregio, 3500 (Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto - Calle Larga Piave). T: 041 2208111. Vaporetto line 4.1 and 5.1 (Sant’Alvise stop). Map E2

The Merchant of Venice Spa An oasis of luxurious indulgence, where The Merchant of Venice’s fragrant and refined essences blend with Kempinski’s European flair. 380 sq.m. of wellness and fitness, with a unique selection of aromatherapy massages, spoiling beauty treatments and healthy fitness recommendations. Equipped with a hot tub and a state-of-the-art modular system combining sauna, Turkish bath and shower as well as an elegant lounge area for two, the Spa Suite. c/o San Clemente Palace Kempinski. www.kempinski.com. Isola di San Clemente, 1. T: 041 4750111. Hotel’s complimentary boat from piazza San Marco. Off Map

LA FENICE OPERA HOUSE www.teatrolafenice.it ■ OPERA 4, 6, 20, 24, 26, 28, 30 October IL BARBIERE DI SIVIGLIA by Gioachino Rossini Gregory Kunde and Sesto Quatrini, conductors Bepi Morassi, director 19, 21, 23, 25, 27 October SEMIRAMIDE by Gioachino Rossini Riccardo Frizza, conductor Cecilia Ligorio, director ■ CHAMBER MUSIC - MUSIKÁMERA 2 and 3 October at Sale Apollinee IVAN KRPAN IN RECITAL Excerpts from Beethoven, Busoni and Liszt Ivan Krpan, piano 8 October RAFAŁ BLECHACZ IN RECITAL Excerpts from Mozart, Beethoven, Schumann, Chopin Rafał Blechacz, piano 28 and 29 October at Sale Apollinee TRIO DI PARMA Excerpts from Beethoven A. Miodini, I. Rabaglia, E. Bronzi

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GAMBLING & CASINOS Casinò di Venezia Inaugurated in 1638, this is the world's oldest gaming house and its charm has remained unaltered over the years. A perfect example of renaissance style stately home, the dwelling place of the doges and Richard Wagner’s last residence, Ca’ Vendramin Calergi is one of the most elegant buildings overlooking Venice’s major waterway, the Grand Canal. Today the rooms for elegant French games and American gaming tables are given over to the best professionals, whilst over 600 slot machines provide a more informal way of having fun. For venues, opening times, tickets: www.casinovenezia.it. Ca’ Vendramin Calergi Cannaregio, 2040. T. 041 5297111. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marcuola stop). • Ca' Noghera - Italy’s first American-style casino, opened in 1999, it offers over 5,000 square meters of entertainment, including a new poker room for Texas hold’em Poker tournaments. Via Paliaga 4/8 Tessera (5 minutes from the Marco Polo Airport). Map E2

VENETO HOT VENUES Arena di Verona The best-preserved Roman amphitheater in the world and the best known in Italy after Rome’s Colosseum, the Arena, the city’s legendary open-

Villa Pisani

In praise of slowness In bygone days, aristocratic Venetian families built country estates where they could spend the summer amidst lush green surroundings and spaces, to enjoy rural recreation. Nowadays, a leisurely boat tour of the Brenta Riviera (1 hour from Venice) is a delightful experience that allows participants to admire these masterpieces of architecture that were designed centuries ago, and which continue to astonish those visiting the area. Unmissable stopovers include Villa Foscari, also known as ‘la Malcontenta’, a stunning mansion built by Andrea Palladio in 1559 and now a UNESCO world heritage site; the magnificent 18th century Villa Pisani which, in addition to housing a magnificent fresco by Giovan Battista Tiepolo, was so large that it was used as meeting place for numerous heads of state until the Pisani family sold it to Napoleon in 1807, and, finally, Villa Widmann which combines the tradition of Veneto villas with French Rococò architecture and is now the headquarters of the Venetian tourist board. Day cruises are available from both Venice and Padua. Several tour companies also offer romantic evening cruises. www.veneziaunica.it - www.welcomepadova.it

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ESSENTIALS

Venice, the floating city Some information and invaluable tips to experience the best that this magical city on water has to offer. By Simona P. K. Daviddi

talians (at least many of them), may already know that Venice… actually floats! Unlike Amsterdam or Saint Petersburg, it is not just furrowed by canals, bordered by roads and pavements. In Venice, canals are the only available communication route, bearing in mind that part of the city extends over a handful of beautiful islands that are scattered across the Lagoon. For this reason, the lagoon city can only be crossed on foot or by boat. Cars, motorbikes, bicycles and even roller skates are strictly forbidden. But this is not all. At times Venice may find itself... under water! The acqua alta phenomenon – the result of heavy rainfall and high tides - can cause the water level to rise by as much as a meter, forcing everyone to walk on raised plank walkways, or don rain boots (many shops, including tobacconists, sell 44 W H E R E V E N I C E I O C TO B E R 2018

disposable ones) in order to cross the city’s flooded calli, campielli and salizade. Calli, campielli and salizade are Venetian words used to identify streets, squares and alleys while sestieri is the local word indicating the six districts the city is divided into: San Marco, Dorsoduro, Cannaregio, Santa Croce, San Polo and Castello. This division dates back to the 12th century and also includes areas such as La Giudecca, the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore (San Marco) and the Island of San Michele, home to the city’s cemetery (Castello). Street numbers in each sestiere start from 1 and often reach four figures, for example, one of the last numbers of the sestiere of Castello is 7,000. You need to learn them if you want to find your way through the spectacular, maze-like historic centre. Venice also has its own network of

public...and private transportation: its vaporetti, real waterbuses, are the most popular craft used by locals, which is why they are often very crowded during peak hours. These engine-powered water taxis are able to whiz across the lagoon in a heartbeat, but for those who prefer a unique, incredibly romantic experience, the famous, distinctive gondola is an absolute must. This elegant, black, one-oared rowing boat drifts gently across the water, while its gondolier sings an entire repertoire of traditional Venetian folk songs. It goes without saying that the waters of the canals are not suitable for swimming, and their banks are often slippery. Be careful not to be so focused on your selfie stick that you walk into a canal because you might be in for some rather unpleasant surprises!

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/VENICE

Emergency POLICE T: 113 AMBULANCE T: 118 FIRE BRIGADE T: 115 TRAFFIC POLICE T: 041 2747070 LOST AND FOUND ON VAPORETTI T: 041 2722179 24-HOUR PHARMACY: check the display at

UNIQUE | FAST TRAINS NETWORK FROM VENICE

all pharmacies.

Airports INTERNATIONAL MARCO POLO DI TESSERA AIRPORT (VCE) - Venice’s Marco Polo Airport offers easy access to numerous destinations located in the Veneto region and in Northern Italy, the Canova di Treviso Airport (in Sant’Angelo) and main railway routes. The Marco Polo Airport is situated at a distance of 13 km from Venice (www.veniceairport.it). Trasportation from the Marco Polo Airport to the historic centre of Venice (and vice-versa): • Taxis (15 min. to Piazzale Roma, approximately €40); • water taxis (fast, private motorboats, approximately €80 ). This service is operative 24/24h (Consorzio Motoscafi Venezia www.motoscafivenezia.it. T: 041 5222303). • ATVO shuttle bus (20 min. to Piazzale Roma, €3, luggage included); • ACTV bus no. 5 (30 min. to Piazzale Roma with intermediate stops, €1, luggage excluded); • Alilaguna motorboats (a private service that uses ACTV’s network of docking stations with intermediate stops at strategic points throughout the city. Fares range from 8 to 27 euros). www.alilaguna.it. T: 041 2401701.

Trains FERROVIE DELLO STATO - Trenitalia Railway

Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com. Venice’s Railway Station (Santa Lucia) can be accessed from all main European and Italian cities. The Railway Station overlooks the lagoon and is located just steps from the stops of Venice’s main public transportation lines. E.g.: to reach St. Mark’s Square by vaporetto, take line 1 or 2. Estimated journey time from main Italian cities via high-speed trains, including Frecciarossa, Frecciabianca, Frecciargento, Italo, Thello, Eurocity.

Tourist Information APT - Azienda di promozione Turistica Città

Metropolitana di Venezia (eng.turismovenezia. it/): Palazzetto Carmagnani, San Marco 2637. T: 041 5298711. VENEZIA UNICA - The official tourism website

of the City of Venice (www.veneziaunica.it)

Tourist Card VENEZIA UNICA CITY PASS is an all-in-one pass

that offers unlimited use of public transportation, admission to tourist attractions and cultural events in the city, plus a number of other useful services. You can purchase your card online and customize your Venezia Unica City Pass to suit your individual travel needs (www.veneziaunica.it/en) exchange vouchers. Open daily 9am-4pm. T: 392 6786628.

GETTING AROUND VENICE Because it is a relatively small, compact city (a 45-minute walk from North to South) whose main points of interest are situated just a short distance from each other, visiting Venice on foot is the ideal solution. Vaporetti - An efficient network of water bus routes covers the entire city and includes transportation to the islands.The service is active 24/24h but runs less frequently between 9.30pm and 6am. Landing stages are located at central points around the city (including Piazzale Roma, Rialto, Piazza San Marco…) . Tickets - Although paper tickets are available at main embarkation points and from authorized resellers displaying the ACTV logo, electronic tickets can also be pre-purchased online. ACTV: Piazzale Roma. T: 041 2424. www actv.it. There are 6 different types of tickets, ranging from hourly tickets (€7.50 for a 75’ regular route) to a weekly pass (€60) for unlimited travel on almost all lines. TIP The boat trip from one bank of the Grand Canal to the other costs 2 euro (only cash).You can pre-purchase reducedprice tickets from Venice Connected: www. veniceconnected.com. IMOB smart cards are available at all ACTV ticket offices. Although they allow you to save on official rates, they are only recommended for long-term visits. Gondolas - These traditional craft are among the best-known tourist attraction for those wishing to experience a view of Venice that is anything but pedestrian. They are used almost exclusively by tourists (and Venetians on their wedding days). TIP Before embarking, we suggest that you check official rates

(approximately €80 for 45 minutes and €100 after 7pm). Agree on a price, time limit and singing in advance to avoid unexpected surcharges. Associazione dei Gondolieri T. 041 5285075. www. gondolavenezia.it Traghetti (Ferries) - ‘Traghetti’ are gondolas that cross the Grand Canal in 8 points. ‘Traghetti’ rides cost just €2 for non-residents (for holders of City Pass Venezia Unica or ACTV passes, rides cost 0.70) and operate almost non-stop. Four ferry services operate in Venice. Taxi - Water taxis with a cabin (private water taxis) are available for hire from 16 landing stages, including Lido Aeroporto Marco Polo, piazzale Roma, Ferrovia, Rialto and San Marco, or from your hotel. TIP Although private water taxis can be costly, they are the fastest and most practical means of getting around Venice. Ask your concierge. Car - The city can be accessed from the mainland by car, thanks to an elevated section (a 4km bridge, the longest in Italy, also known as the ‘Translagunare’), with limited parking options at garages in Piazzale Roma or on the Island of Tronchetto. Prices for 24-hour parking cost approximately €30 euro. TIP It’s advisable to travel to Mestre by car (24hour parking costs approximately €15 euro) and then continue on to Venice by public transport. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 45

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ISOLA SAN GIACOMO IN PALUDE

MURANO 10

Chiesa di San Michele in Isola

TREPORTI

ISOLA CAMPALTO STRADA

A AS C

L C O

LA EL

E D E

.D AL

E N TA S E

AME

N TA

CAMPIELLO SAN GIUSEPPE

SAN

L O

Chiesa S. Erasmo

NZ O

CRISTO DEL

CAMPO S A N D O N AT O

O M LE E D A VI

CALL

SANT’ERASMO

Ponte Lungo

DELLA MULA

MURANO

FONDAMENTA

MIST

IA N TI S G O

E AN GE

LO D AL

CALLE

SERENELLA

MULA

ANTON

N TA

E FONDA M

RAMO

QUIRIZIO

F O N D A M E N TA D E I V E T R A I

DEI

ZANETTI

CAMPIELLO

DELLA DELLA

PRË

PESCHERIA

A M

CAMPIELLO P. B I G A G L I A

O B

BERTOLINI

C LE

L’

FON

VIA

C A’ S AV I O

Faro di Murano

LLA F O N D A M E N TA S E R E N E

ENT

PESCHERIA

CALLE

DEL

HI O MASG

ORT

C. LARGA

A SAN GIOV

LI RO G

CALLE

B AT T U T I

IET LE D OLO

CALLE

LEO

LLE

TONI E N TA A N

CAL

FOSC

O E UG

LLEONI

CALL

BERTOLINI

CALLE

FONDAM

CALLE

Chiesa di San Pietro Martire

CIPRIANO SAN CALLE

CAVALLINO TREPORTI

NTI

Chiesa dei Santi Maria e Donato

GIUSEPPE

CALLE

COLORATA

GIA LLE

CAMPO SAN BERNARDO

BAROVIER CALLE

VIVARINI

SACCA

LIO

L'A CA

E C E

DEL

SAN

CAL

SALVADOR

TERA’

Santa Maria degli Angeli

PARMENSE

E V O

RTI

STRADA

RADI

CAMPO DE LE CASE NOVE

MURANO

TA’

PORTO MARGHERA

CALLE DEL CIMITERO

CRISTOFORO

LORENZO

GIANMARIA

VENINI

PAOLO

FONDAMENTA

RIO

CALLE

NICOLO’ CALLE SAN

FONDAMENTA

ORTES CALLE

Cimitero Nuovo

COLORATA

ISOLA SAN GIORGIO

VIA

MASENA

ROTONDA

CANOSSIANE

CALLE

LARGA

LA DE

CALLE

Apostoli Santi

DEI

dei Rio

DE LA PIETA’

DE L MAGAZEN

CALLE

CORDONI DEI STELLA

CALLE CALLE

STELLA

SQUERO

CALLE

DEL CALLE

TESTA DE

Rio

Dei

BANDI

MENDICANTI

FONDAMENTAMendicanti

CALLE

CASTELLO

GIUSTINA

CAPPUCCINE CALLE

SANTA

DEGLI

ORTI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE MASSA C. DE LE MOSCHETE

CALLE CAVALLI

MURAZZO

PIETA’

CALLE

DEL TE DEUM

DELLA

CALLE

CAPPELLO

CALLE

RAMO

CALLE DEL FO CALLE ZORZI

FONDAMENTA DEL CRISTO

MAGNO

Nuove Fondamenta delle

GRECI

CALLE DEI

Canale

STRETA SALIZADA

CALLE DE LA PIETA’

Rio de San Gerolamo

CALLE DEL DOSE

CAGNOLETO

PESCARIA

DEL

CALLE

DEI

FORNI

L’ARSENAL

CALLE

BRESSANA

CALLE VERROCCHIO DEL

VENIERA CALLE

CALLE

DOSE DEL

ISEPO

SANT'ANTONIO

COLONNE CALLE

FONDAMENTA

C. D EL

CAR

XXIV M AGG

CALLE MONT E PA S U B I O

GEN

ERA

INO

TTO

CAL

Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo

Sant'Elena

SANT'ELENA

VIALE O

Aeroporto Nicelli Venezia Lido

Teatro Verde

LÒ

Japan Pavilion

MAGGIORE

EMB

CALLE MONTELLO SAN EL ENA

VIALE

E IV NOV

United States Pavilion

VIAL

PALUDO CALLE

Rio d el Giardini

CALLE

SAN GIORGIO

Le Zitelle

VI O

Lido S. Nicolo' M

SANT’ELENA

Scuola Navale Militare "Francesco Morosini"

R E

DELL'OLIO

FERRANDO

CALLE

DE LE ERBE

NOBILI

LUNGO

CALLE DEL FORNO

NAVE

VOLTO

LA DE

DEL

FRUTARIOL

PARADISO

DEL

CALLE

DEL

CALLE

BALBI

C. DE LA MADONETA

FORNO

DEL

DONZELLA C.

CALLE

SANT’ANTONIO

LOVO DEL CALLE

CALLE

CORONA

DELLA

LEONARDO

LA SACRESTIA

C. CORONA

CALLE RIMPETTO

ALBANESI CALLE DEL

CALLE DE LE RASSE

CATERINA

L’ABAZIA Misericordi

CAMPO

SANTA

della

FOSCARINI

LUNGA

CALLE

Canale

MISERICORDIA FOND.

RACHETA LA DE

FELICE

CALLE

I ZZ PO

Dolce

PRIULI

FOORNO

Ca’

DEL

Rio

VELE DE

CALLE

APOSTOLI

CALLE

PISTOR

SANTI

DEL

VERDI

CALLE

C.SANT’ANTONIO

RIO TERRÀ

SALIZADA

SOFIA

SANTA

CAMPO

CANNAREGIO

BOMBASEI

APRILE II

CALLE

MERCERIA

STAGNERI

C. DEI

GIOVANNI

S.G. GRISOSTOMO

SALIZADA

ZULIAN SAN

BALOTE

CALLE

LE DE

PISCINA

CALLE

NUOVE

FOSCARI CALLE

CALLE DEI FUSERI

SALONI

RIO CROCE

STRETTA

SAN

AI ZATTERE FONDAMENTA

DELLE

I CASE

CASE

CAPITELO

FONDAMENTA

DEL

PIAVE

CALLE

LARG

CALLE BECCARIE DE CALLE

ROSA

CONVERTITE

VECCHIO GHETTO

CERERIA

LARGA

CALLE

ETTI,

VECCHIA

CALLE

TI, RÀ

FA R S

CALLE

CORTE

RS FA

RIO T ERÀ

CALLE

DEL

RIELLO

CALLE

TREVISAN

CAMIN

RIO

COLOMBINA CALLE

PESARO

QUERIN,

CALLE

SAN FONDAMENTA

CALLE

TRAGHETO

FONTEGO

MEGIO

DEL

RIO TERÀ CAZZA

DEL

SALITA

CALLE

STAE

FORNO DEL

SAN

D’ORO

CA’

LUCIA

CALLE

LARGA

SALIZADA

ROSA

SANTA

CALLE

GRUE

DEL

LE DE

CALLE

CARMINATI

CAMPANIEL DEL

REGINA

SALIZADA

PICCOLO

FONDAMENTA

SIMON

CALLE

BOTERI

DEI CALLE

L’ANZOLO

STUA LA

CALLE

SECONDO

CRISTO

TERA’

DEL

RIO

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

DRIO

DORSODURO SESTIERE

CALLE

SAN

MEZZO CALLE

L’ARCHIVIO

FON. DEI TOLENTINI

CAMPIELLO DEL LIBRER

CALLE

ROCCO SAN

ALBANESI DEI

CALLE

SBIACCA

STRETA

CALLE

RAGUSEI

LIPOLI

ORBI DEI

CALLE

LE DE

GIUSTINIAN

EUFEMIA BEATA CALLE

DEL

RIO TERA’ OGNISANTI

SANGIANTOFFETTI

EREMITE

FONDAMENTA

DEI CORTELLOTTI

FONDAMENTA NANI

FOSCARINI

FONDAMENTA

TERRÀ

VENIER

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

ROTONDA

SANT'ELENA

Rio

SANT'ELENA

Parco delle Rimembranze

Santa Croce

FONDAMENTA

U I P

DEI

TERÀ

PALUDO

CROCE

VIALE PIAVE

GRANDE

RIO

CALLE

San Giuseppe di Castello

Russia Pavilion

PONTE

CALLE

Giardini

S. Giorgio

CORTE

CAMPO SAN ISEPO

Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore

FIANCO

CENETTE

PIETRO CORTELIESINA DA

CALLE

ALDI

SAN GIACOMO

IST

ACCADEMIA

R L C

IB PE GAR

ION

Lungo

SAN PIETRO DI CASTELLO

QUINTAVALLE CALLE

POLACCA

CALLE

ROSA

SALAMON

CALLE

IAN

GIUSEP

SARES

O E ANC

DOMENICO CALLE SAN

VIALE

CALL

CALLE

COPPO

SCHIAVONA

LARGA

MARAFONI

CALLE

SANT'ANNA

CALLE CORERA

CALLE

Basilica di San Pietro di Castello CALLE

CALLE TERCO

F O N D A M E N TA

C A L L E C ATA PA N

CALLE

CALLE DELL’ANGELO

DELFINA

GRIMANI

FONDAMENTA

LA CERTOSA

Vergini

FOND. SAN GIOACCHIN

OLO C A L L E G I A N B AT T I S TA T I E P

CALLE

NUOVA

DEI PRETI

CALLE

de le

N TA R I O D E L L A TA NA

OSPIZIO

CALLE

San Francesco di Paola BALD

CALLE

ENA

COLTRERA

CALLE

GARI

EPPE

CALLE FRIZIER

I S ET

C. LOREDANA

FONDAMENTA

ARS

NALE

FONDAME

IUS VIA G

Ponte

E N TA

TA A R SE

LA TANA

CALLE

DELLA

ERBE

RAMO DE

CROSERA

CALLE

AMEN

TANA

CALLE

CALLE ALBERO

JUNGHANS

FOND

DE LA

Punta della Dogana

Redentore O

Santissimo Redentore

CALLE MORE

del

DAM

La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale

CAMPO

CALLE

SAN GI ACOM

CAMPO

CALLE

VIDA

CASTELLO

M E N TA

ISOLA DI

GIUDECCA FONDA

DEI

Museo Storico Navale di Venezia

PICCOLO

FON

FONDAMENTA ARSENALOTTI

CALLE

PIETRO

PONTE

PALLADA

SCUOLA

Giardino delle Vergini

Rio

San Martino

MOROSINA

CALLE DELA CREA

Zitelle

FONDAMENTA

La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale

La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese

RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

Spirito Santo

CALLE

PESTRIN

GRITTI CALLE

SAN

FEM

DE CALLE

CROSERA

Arsenale di Venezia

PIGNATER

RUGA VECCHIA

FORNACE

SALONI

'EU

PISCINA

C. VOLTO

TERRÀ

SCUOLA

MARTIN

L’ARCO

CALLE

ONI

CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO

CATECUMENI

RIO

CALLE

SALIZADA

DEL PIOVAN

RIO TERRÀ

FONDAMENTA

DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

Moise

DEL TRAGHETTO

MARTIRI

San

CALLE

RIDOTTO

TREDICI

Rio

CALLE

VALLARESSO

CALLE

SARTOR

FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN

CAMPO DELLA SALUTE

Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

San Gregorio

RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO

Giudecca Palanca EN

NUOVE

CASTELLO

L’ANZOLO

BASTION

C. DEL

ASCENSIONE

DEI PUTI

CELESTIA

DONA

SCUDI

LARGA

CALLE

SEBASTIAN

CASTELLO CASE

DELLA

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI

DEL

CALLE

SAN

CALLE DEL PESTRIN

COSMO

SESTIERE

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA

DE L’OGIO

CALLE

SAN ANTONIN

S C H I AV

DEI FORNI

Sant'Eufemia

NUOVE

SECONDO SAGRADO

CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA

CORTE DEL MORION

CORTE DELLE GATE

R I VA D EGLI

S. Zaccaria (Pieta')

Arsenale

BIAGIO

CALLE

CASE

RAMO

CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA

CORTE SACCA

SAN

CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO

San Giovanni Battista in Bragora

VONI

100 m

SAN

CONVERTITE

San Francesco della Vigna

FRANCESCO

SANTA GIUSTINA

CALLE DEI FURLANI

SALIZADA

CALLE TERAZZERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’

Santa Maria della Pietà SCHIA

S. Zaccaria (Danieli)

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

SAN

SALIZADA

DEGLI

VERONA

RIO

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA

San Giovanni di Malta

San Giorgio dei Greci

San Zaccaria

CALLE BOSELLO

MINELLI

DEGLI

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

SALUTE

LAVRANERI

ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

ZON

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

VIN CALLE DEL

Palazzo

CAVALLETTO

ORSEOLO

FONDAMENTA DEL VIN

DEL

SOTO E CORTE NOVA

Rio Del

FABBRI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

S. SAMUELE

PESTRIN

FONDAMENTA

CALLE DEL BASTION

FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

CALLE

CALLE SAN LORENZO

CALLE LION

DE L’OSMARIN FONDAMENTA

CAMPO SAN PROVOLO

CALLE

SPECHIERI

SPADARIA

DEI

DEL

CALLE

TRONCHETTO

DEL NOVA ISOLA

FONDAMENTA

ra Scomenze De

MARITTIMO

Canale

PORTO

FONDAMENTA

F. CONDULMER

DIREZIONE

MARITTIMO

CERERIA LA

PORTO

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA

San Lorenzo

CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA

CALLE

DEI PRETI

GATE

CALLE

DRASI

DEL CAFETIER

CORTE NOVA

ZORZI SALIZADA

C. PIANTON

R I VA

DE LE

DEI

CALLE

C. DE LE COLONNE

DELL’OROLOGIO

PISCINA

VERONA

CALLE

MARZARIA

REDIVO

CALLE GOLDONI

CALLE

A N M

SALIZADA

CALLE

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

SEVERO

DIREZIONE

LATERANO

SAN

FABBRI

Marittim

P U N TA S A B B I O N I Santa Maria del Pianto

DE LE TOLE

FONDAMENTA GIOVANNI

CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO

BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO

GIUFFA

CASSELERIA

DEI

MANDOLA

AVVOCATI

TERÀ

RIELO

SPORCA CALLE PAZIENZE DE LE

LORENZO

FONDAMENTA

C. SAN

SCOAZZERA DE LA

LE PAZIENZE

MEZO

CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO

Palazzo Ducale

Rio San Lorenzo

DE CALLE

RUGA

CALLE

PISCOPIA

CARBON

Salvador

MARCO

CANONICA DE LA

FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO

LIO

DEL

LARGA

BARBARIA

SAN

CORTE NUOVA

San Giovanni Novo CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO

SAN

CALLE

SCHIAVONI RIVA

LE VIGNOLE

NOVE

Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto

CORTE TREVISAN

Palazzo Querini Stampalia

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

REMEDIO DEL CALLE

LARGA

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

Basilica di San Marco

FONDAMENTA

SAN

San

RIO

CALLE

San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti

Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo

Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo

CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

FORNO

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani

BANDE

CORTE FRUTARIOLI

CALLE DEL FIGHER

CALLE

BALONI

CAPPELLO

SAN

CALLE ERIZZO

SALIZADA

DE LE

ORBI

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

CALLE

DEI

CALLE

Rio

MAGAZZINI

G. GALLINA

DEL

DE LE ERBE

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

TASCA

CORTE DEL FORNO

C.DEI

BIANCA CALLE

ZZA

CALLE

BEMBO

ZULIAN

CORTE TORRETTA

Museo Correr

Salute

ZATTERE

DE LA SACA

CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO

CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO

LARGA

CALLE

O MUSSATO CALLE

San Giuliano

SAN

PIGNOLI

REMER

CALLE

GRIMANI

CAVALLI

LUCATELLO

MARZARIA DEI

PIA

O DEL

CINQUE

CALLE

CORNER

DEI

LICINI

MEZO

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

FONDAMENTA

CORTE NOVA

CALLE GABRIELI

DRIO CALLE LE SCUOLE

CALLE

CORTE

RUBBI

CORTE GRAGOLINA

Bacino Orseolo

Ca' Giustinian

Palazzo Genovese

Spirito Santo CALLE

DEI LAVRANERI

San Gerardo

BIAGIO

NOVE

CORTE CORTESE

CAMPIELLO STELLA

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

CASTELLI

PIOMBO

D. PALLE

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

LIO

C. LARGA

CORTE

CALLE

CAPITELLO

BALOTE

GALLO SAN

BERLENDIS

VARISCO

CALLE

CALLE DEL C.MARTINENGO

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

CAMPO

DE LA FAVA

CALICE

DEL

TAGIAPIERA

GRAGOLINA LE COLONNE DE

STRAZZE TERÀ RIO

CALLE CAMPO SAN GALLO

BOTERI

CALLE

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN

CALLE

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

MIRACOLI

GIAZZO

SAN

GALIAZZO

C. DEL

SALVADOR

MARZARIA

CORTE C.DEL TRAMONTIN

C.DE

COCCO

TOSCANA

CALLE

Stazione

DEI

CALLE

SAN

DELLE

CARRO

PRIMO RAMOCONTARINA CORTE

San Moisè

Palazzo Pisani Gritti

PONTE

SACCA SAN

DEI

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

WIDMANN

CALLE

SALIZADA

SABION

DEL CALLE

CORTE BAROZZI

FONDAMENTE

LARGA

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

C O RT E B ATA G I A

RIO

Teatro Malibran

CAMPO

C. DEL

CORTE DEL

MARZARIA

San Salvador

FRUTARIOL

DEL

CAMPO SAN MOISE’

CASTELLO

CALLE

MADONA

zera

ORESI

DE LA

FORNO

RAMO

DEL

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

FREZZERIA

MOISE’

SA PISCINA

XXII MARZO

SESTIERE

DEI

PARANGON

CALLE

DOLERA

C. DE

RIO TERA’

L' ARZERE

GUARDIANI

TODESCHI

CALLE

CANAL RIO TERA’

C. DEI

LARGA

CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

VENEZIA

CALLE

CAL RAMO

S.Canciano CALLE

CALLE

SAN CANZIAN

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

SAN LIO

MAZZINI CORTE

MAGAZEN

DEL

CALLE

DE PISCINA

LA CHIESA

DRIO

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

FONTEGO

PIO

LARGA

SAN SALVADOR

LUCA SAN CALLE

CALLE

CORTE

MICHIEL

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

Santa Maria del Giglio

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim

DEL FORNO

CALLE DEL NAVARO

FONDAMENTA

VENIER

CORTE DEL REMER

FRUTARIOL

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

C. DEL

SALIZZADA

CALLE

TEATRO DEL CALLE

LOCANDE CALLE ASSASSINI

San Fantin

Maria del Giglio

CHIESA

SALIZADA

SPIRITO

CALLE

BARBA

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

RUGA

CALLE

DIETRO

VOLTI

GALIZZI

ROSSA

nde Canal Gra

FONDAMENTA

RAGUSEI

FONDAMENTA

CROSERA

CALLE

TRAGHETTO

VAPORETTO

CALLE

STURION

DEL

ALLO

ZEN

SARTORI

TERÀ

Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto

Rialto

TEATRO

PATERNIN

MANDOLA

TERÀ

RIO

Teatro la Fenice

DELLA

CAPPUZZI

ZATTERE

CAMPO DEI GESUITI

FONDAMENTA

FOND.

RIO

SALIZADA

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

San Giacomo di Rialto

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

CORTE DEL

Palazzo Nervi Scattolin

CAMPO MANIN SAN CALLE CALLE

CAFETIER

CAOTORTA

Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

SANTO

DEL

CATERINA

San Giovanni Grisostomo

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

TEATRO

MARCO

DEL

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

San MaurizioSanta

Canal Grande

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

SANTA

PRIULI

NOVA

PESCARIA

Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)

S.Silvestro

DEL

CALLE

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

Santo Stefano

C.SANT'AGNESE

NANI

AI GESUATI

Giudecca Hilton

Chiesa dei Gesuiti

S.ANDREA

FONDAMENTA

Santa Sofia

STRADA

San Silvestro

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

Palazzo Grimani

San Beneto San Luca

SAN BOTEGHE

CAMPO PISANI

CATENE

CAMPO DELLA

RAVANO

DEL

RUGHETA

DEI

CALLE

CAZZIOLA

TRAGHETTO

DEL PISTOR

CALLE

Zattere

NOVE

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

FOND.

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

STUA

BECARIE

DEL SOL

DEL

CALLE

ZATTERE

CALLE

CAMPO DE LA

CAMPIELLO DEL SANSONI

CAMPIELLO

CALLE

CAMPO SAN BENETO CALLE

CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione FONDAMENTA

FONDAMENTE

Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana

MUTI

CAMPO SAN APONAL

FABBRICHE

CA’

BOTA

Sant’Aponal DEL

CARAMPANE

de r an

NARISI FOND.

CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

San Vidal CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

San Trovaso CAMPO SAN TROVASO

DEL

San Felice

Palazzo Fortuny

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

CROSERA

FALIER

BONLINI

TRAPOLIN

VENDRAMIN

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

DI SAN MARCO

SAMUELE

Palazzo Loredan

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

LONGO

CA'

DE DE

CARAMPANE

TERÀ

PERDON

CARROZZE

al G

SESTIERE

S. SALIZADA

Abazia della Misericordia D

San Cassiano CALLE CALLE

RIO

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

Can Sant'Angelo

VECCHIA

LEZZE

FONDAMENTA

Santa Fosca

CAMPO SAN CASSAN

L’AGNELLA

Palazzo Querini-Dubois

CA’ CORTE

CALLE

S. Samuele

CALLE

OGNISANTI

d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro

TIOZZI

CORTE DEL TEATRO

CAMPO SAN POLO

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

Rio Nuovo

FOND.

DEI

SCALETER

CALLE RAMO

PONTE

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

DEL

Palazzo Giustinian Persico S. Toma' SX

Palazzo Grassi San Samuele

Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia

BEATE GIULIANA

SACCA

FISOLA

LARGA

S.Stae

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

CALLE CA’BONVINCINI

BOLDO

TRON

SAN

San Tomà

Ca' Rezzonico

Accademia

ZATTERE AL

CALLE CHIESA

CONTARINI

dell'Orto

MORETTI

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

CAMPO SAN TOMÀ

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI CALLE BERNARDO

FODAMENTA

S. Basilio

DELLA

San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale

CALLE

DEL

TENTOR

MEZO

CAMPO

ZANE

CROSERA

Ca' Rezzonico

Giudecca Hilton FONDAMENTO CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO

CALLE

TABACCHI

CALLE

SAN BOLDO

CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO

SAN POLO

CAMPO DEI FRARI

CALLE

San Barnaba

Madonna

MORI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

NUOVA

PRETI

L’ASEO

DEI

CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE

CAMPO SAN STIN

TOMÀ

CAMPO SAN ROCCO

CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA

DONZELA

CALLE

TINTORETTO

DEI

CALLE

FOMO

SAN

CALLE

CAMPO SAN PANTALON

RENIER

DEL

A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA

DE OGNISANTI

ALE

PAPADOPOLI

TERÀ

Basilica dei Frari

San Rocco

Muneghete

CALLE

CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA

INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON

Chiesa di Ognissanti

FONDAMENTA

NIE

Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

CALLE

RIO

CALLE

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

PANTALON

San Pantalon

NUOVO

.DA

La Maddalena

Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

L’ISOLA

OCHE CALLE

OCHE

LATTE

LACA

FONDARIA

CIMESIN

BASEGO

RIO

CAMPO DEI CARMINI

CALLE DE LA LACA

RAMO

CIMESIN

SAN

CALLE

Carmini

Santa Maria dei Carmini

À D E

SOTOPORTEGO

C. CAMPAZZO DE

CALLE

Rio

SALIZADA

del

CALLE DE LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN BESAGIO

FO de Servi N

TER

TOLENTINI

FONDAMENTA

DEI

Bacino

DE LA VIDA

C.VENZATO

CALLE

CALLE DELL'OLIO

FON.

Canale

TERA’

RAMO

CALLE ORSETTI

TINTOR

BESAGIO

Misericordia

RIO DIETRO TERÀ LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

DEL

SALIZADA

della

Rio

San Giacomo dall'Orio CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO CALLE

DEI

LIBERTÀ

VECCHIO BERGAMASCHI

SIMEONE LUNA

MINOTTO

Magazen

CALLE

Rio

DORSODURO

San Sebastiano SAN

CALLE CAZZA

FONDAMENTA

CANAL

DEI AMAI

RAMO

Del

Rio dei Tolentini

FONDAMENTA

CALLE CONTARINA

BRIATI

CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO

CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN

RUGA BELA

BARI

DELLA

SAN

TRAGHETTO CALLE

CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL

CALLE SAVIO

RUGA VECCHIA

CAMPO

DEI

Angelo Raffaele

DORSODURO

Rio

CALLE

NUOVA

CERERI

FONDAMENTA

LARDONI

Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola RIO

LARGA

PONTE PROCURATIE

DEI

CALLE

CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA

DEL REMER

BIASIO

BARI

CALLE

LUNGA

Scomen

CALLE

RIZZI FONDAMENTA

FONDAMENTA

DE L’OGIO

VECCHIO

RIVA

LISTA

San Simeone Profeta

Soranzo Cappello

DE CAMPO

San Nicola da Tolentino

Rio

PENSIERI

DEI FONTEGHERI

CALLE

I CALLE ORSETT

DEI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

ICO

NOVA

MISERICORDIA

SANT'ANDREA

FONDAMENTA

TERÀ

MADONA

SAN MICHELE

FONDAMENTA

della

CAMPO FONDAMENTA DEI MORI

San Marcuola

CAMPIELLO

nde l Gra Cana Riva de Biaso

CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO

NAZARIO Palazzo FONDAMENTA SAURO Soranzo Capello GARZOTTI

Giardino di Palazzo

CASE CORTE

CALLE

C. LAVADORI TERÀ

TABACCHI

RIO

MIS

RIO

NUOVE

CROCE

Giardino Papadopoli

PIAZZALE ROMA RIO

FABBRICA FONDAMENTA

E DEL PISTO

MUNEGHE

CROCE

CALLE

CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI

STRADA

SPAGNA

FONDAMENTA

Ferrovia

CORTE

Sant'Andrea

SANT'ANDREA

NICOLO’ SAN

San Nicolò dei Mendicoli

CALLE

CALL

San Leonardo

San Geremia DI LISTA TERÀ RIO

SCALZI

DEI Ponte degli Scalzi

FONDAMENTA

San Simeon Piccolo

Ferrovia

LA FO.

TERÀ

MARTA

Istituto Universitario Di Architettura

CALLE SAN BASILIO

EONARDO

SAN LEONARDO

CALLE TRAGHETTO

CALLE

CAVALLETTI

Santa Maria di Nazareth

P.le Roma

Ponte della Costituzione

RIO

People Mover Venezia

SANTA FONDAMENTA

MATTA DI CA’

CALLE CASE NUOVE

Madonna dell'Orto

MADONNA

Rio

LER

People Mover Venezia

S A N TA

CAMPIELLO LONGHI

CALLE

AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO

DELL'ORTO

S. L R I O T E R À CAMPO

CAMPO SAN GEREMIA

PRIULI

Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia

ITTICO MERCATO DIREZIONE

ER LE P

TRONCHETTO

CAMPIELLO P I AV E

FONDAMENTA

Museo Ebraico CAL

A E M

CALLE

DEL

CANNAREGIO

CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO

NOVA

San Girolamo

ISOLA

TRONCHETTO

Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo

Sant'Alvise

CAMPO S A N T ' A LV I S E

INE

DEL

CALLE

SAVORGNAN

MATTIA

PISCINA

SAN

L’ARCO

CALLE

N G IR

SAN

Palazzo Nani FONDAMENTA

VECCHIA

LLO

RUGA

Palazzo Labia Parco Savorgnan Salone del Tiepolo

DA PONTE

B AT

DOGE

CALLE

FORNER

CAMPIELLO TRAGHETTO

DEL

SEBASTIANO

CALLE

CANNAREGIO

di Cannaregio

CAMPO SAFFA

Parcheggio Bus Turistici

VENEZIA

di Sant'Alvise

Sensa

COLETTI

Canale

GIOBBE

People Mover Venezia

della

CARLO

FONDAMENTA

SAN

San Giobbe

BRAGADIN

NUOVE

Rio

FOND.A

Ponte dei Tre Archi

FONDAMENTA

VENIER FONDAMENTA

PENITENTI

CANNAREGIO

DEL SABION

LARGA

FONDAMENTA

CAMPIELLO DEL SCARLATTO

CALLE

Monastero "Villa Groggia" Carmelitane Scalze

ROLAMO SACCA SAN GI

CALLE

Santa Maria delle Penitenti

CAMPIELLO DE LA LAVANDER

FONDAMENTA

F O N D A M E N TA

TA’

CORTE

SANT'AGNESE

Parco

BRAGADIN

PISCINA

NUOVA ISOLA DEL TRONCHETTO

ISOLA DELLE TRESSE

FAUSTA

Chiesa di San Michele in Isola

FONDAMENTA

INCURABILI

CALLE ZUCCHERO

C A

S. Servolo

N TA

ILEI

VI SC

VIC

AN D'

ZAR

VIA

RIA

ISA

VIA

S TA

T TA

HIE

O LL GA

MIC

VIA

DOL

O E NR

ICO

V I A L E PA N T O

VIA

DAN

MOCENIGO

ZIO

E C I PA

O PA RT

ORS

ISOLA DI SAN LAZZARO DEGLI ARMENI

VIA

VIA VETTOR PISANI

VIA

AQU

VIA

Tempio Votivo Della Pace Di Venezia

VIA

SAN MICHELE

SAN SERVOLO

ISOLA LA GRAZIA

RIV

IER

CIP

A S A

Hundertwasser' Garden

VIA

N N IC

CALLE ORTI

VIA CAN DIA

Festival Danza Orientale e Danza del Ventre Venezia

VIA

SANDRO

O SE LV

VIA

ENIC

GALLO

DOM

GALLIPOLI

VIA

Convento Delle Figlie Del Cuore Di Gesu'

LIDO DI VENEZIA 100 m

VIA

SANDRO

ISOLA

GALLO

DI LEMNO

Monastero Armeno Mechitarista

ISOLA SAN CLEMENTE

LAZZARETTO VECCHIO

Palazzo del cinema del Lido di Venezia VI

ISOLA DELLE ROSE

M O M EL

Hotel Excelsior Venice

R AT

PIZZAMANO

VIA

O LL

PIE

VIA

S. Antonio Di Padova

I VI

MA O LM IE NG

CRISTOFORO

VIA

ISOLA SAN SPIRITO

COLOMBO

VIA

SAN

SAN PIGAFETTA

PIGAFETTA

LIDO

I S E

O LL GA

A VI

O VA

I E

VIA

VIA FRANCESCO

PEZZANA

I R E

Z AT

VIA M

GIOVANNI ON

PIVIDOR

A VI CO OC AM AL M

CC O AM AL M A VI

A RIN CA TE

CA LLE

AR INI

NTA

CATE NE

PIAZZA DELLE ERBE

ERÀ RIO T

O NI RD DE E

EL ST E LL

RO UE SQ L

I NT

n ti

DI CA

ic a

IM EN

DE TA

ELLO CAST

GIUSTINA

TI I OR GL DE LL E

PIETA’

EL LO

AMEN

TA A R SE

San Giuseppe di Castello O EP IO N IS ON SA 'ANT NT SA DO PALU LLE CA DO PALU LLE CA

TERÀ RIO

E N N LO O C LE AL C

AL E G

Russia Pavilion

NT E BO

SAN T'EL

INO

TTO

ERA

ENA

GEN

SS PA

Sant'Elena

F. LL

see pages 4-5

1 BASILICA DI SAN MARCO

7 PALAZZO DUCALE

2 PONTE DEI SOSPIRI

8 THE GHETTO

VI A

SAN

T' EL

EN A

SANT’ELENA

Scuola Navale Militare "Francesco Morosini"

3 CANAL GRANDE

PONTE DI RIALTO

TEATRO LA FENICE 6 CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE DI SAN ROCCO

10 MURANO

4 SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO

ENA

Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo

T'EL ENTA SAN

FON DAM

E VIAL E PIAV

CAR

Parco delle Rimembranze

PIZ

L DE

C. D EL

XXIV M AGG

CALLE MONT E PA S U B I O

Teatro Verde

LL E

Japan Pavilion

CAL

Top in Town

S MA

MAGGIORE

SAN GIORGIO

U I P

M CA

United States Pavilion

VIALE

EN TA AM

5 LL

M CA

CC A

TT E

Le Zitelle

Zitelle

L EL

LA E PO

ION

BB O

O TR A E PIE SIN RT LIE CO DA

LL E

Giardini

ISOLA DI

SA IST

E US

S. Giorgio

R L C

EL CA LL

ERA

O E ANC

CAMPO SAN ISEPO

Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore

C A L L E C ATA PA N

OLO C A L L E G I A N B AT T I S TA T I E P

CALL

SANT'ANNA

CALLE CORERA

ALDI

IB PE GAR

IAN

GIUSEP

SARES

Punta della Dogana

CALLE

I S E

DOME NICO CALLE SAN

VIALE

PO E COP

IAVO E SCH

CALL

SALUT E

N FOND. SAN GIOACCHI F O N D A M E N TA

I GELO CALLE DELL’AN

BALD

OS E CR

GARI

A C. LOREDAN

San Francesco di Paola

RERA

VA E NUO

EPPE

N TA R I O D E L L A TA NA CALLE FRIZIER

CALL

DELFINA CALLE

GRIMANI CALLE

PRET E DEI

ESSO

E COLT

LAR

oise

IUS VIA G

CALL

VAL

RTIRI

I MA

100 m

AM ON

FONDAME CALL

CALLE

FO ND

LA TANA

Museo Storico Navale di Venezia

SAL

V TA

DEI FORNI

CAL

CALL

ION

RAMO DE

TAN A

DE LA

FONI

CAM PO

MARA

CALL E

P IE

VID A

SAN PIETRO DI CASTELLO

CALLE TERCO

NALE

A RO SA

CALLE MONTELLO SAN EL ENA

FOND

E LA RG

La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale

Basilica di San Pietro di Castello CA LL

EMB

ENA

E IV NOV

ARS

SAL IZAD

E N TA

A STR ETA

DE I FO RN I

DAM

CA LL E

CA LLE

FONDAMENTA

Arsenale

ini

VIAL

delle DEI ARSENALOTTI

M OR OSI NA

S. Zaccaria (Pieta')

FON

FONDAMENTA

Rio de San Gerola

DE L CA GN OL ET O

CAL LE

Verg

ONI

CAL LE

S C H I AV

CA LL E

R I VA D EGLI

PES CAR IA

CALLE DEL DOSE

San Giovanni Battista in Bragora

VONI

San Martino

CALLE DEL FORNO

I ITT GR

E LL CA

CR OSE RA

RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA

NDAM ENTA

de le

Arsenale di Venezia

RIN ST PE

L’A

CA LL E

E DE LL CA

RS EN

NATER PIG

CALLE DE LA PIETA’

CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO

Giardino delle Vergini

Rio

Rio d el Giardini

Nuo am Fond

La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese

Can

N SA

La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale

Arsenale di Venezia

ale

A IN SC PI

CO L’AR

L’AN ZO LO

enta

CALLE ZORZI

GRECI

E CA ST

CASTELLO

DO NA

M AG NO CAL LE

DEL TE DEUM

DELLA

CALLE

CALLE DEL FO

PEL LO O CAP

CALLE DEI

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

Ca' Giustinian

IER

FO DE ND AM L CR EN TA IS TO

UCC INE

SANTA

E CAPP

CAL

DE LL A CO RO NA

LEONAR DO

C. COR ONA

CALLE RIMPET TO LA SACRES TIA

CALLE DE LE RASSE

ALBANESI CALLE DEL

SA NT ’A NT ONI O

CA LL E PIS CIN A SA N ZU LIA N CALLE BALB I

RAM

DE LL E CA O

ALL

C. DE LA MADONETA

L DO

DEL

DIS

UT AR

L VO

NA VE

E DE

STA GNERI

C. DEI

BA LO TE LE

FONDAMENTA

SALIZADA

I SE M BA

BO E

AP II

A RI CE M ER

LO VO

CA LL E DE

S. Zaccaria (Danieli)

HIA RUGA VECC

CENS

VO HIA

LE ST

O C. VOLT

A AS

DIC

OTT LE RID

LE TRE

CAL

I SC

DE ADA SALIZ

CALLE TERAZZ ERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’

Santa Maria della Pietà SCHIA

CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO

LARG

MO GL A DE RIV

A N M

DEGLI

LE CAL

N TI AR M

DEL PIOVAN FONDAMENTA

LLE

an Moisè

SA LO

R I VA

N IO ST BA

Museo Correr

San Zaccaria

ANT ONIN

LL A

L DE

Palazzo Ducale

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

VIN CALLE DEL

OLO

7 2

CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA

SALIZAD A SAN

CAL LE

CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI

CALLE DEI FURLANI

San Giorgio dei Greci

LL E

E LL CA

AL CAV

ENTA FONDAM

CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA

I UD I SC GL DE LLE CA

DEL

l Palaz

SAN

CALLE LION

IN MAR DE L’OS

CAMPO SAN PROVOLO FONDAMENTA DEL VIN

RI BB FA

ZZA

San Giovanni di Malta

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

C. PIA NTON

SOTO E CORTE NOVA

DEI

Rio De

LE CAL

PIA

I PRET

E NUO

SE ST

O DE L’OGI CALLE

CORTE DELLE GATE

CALLE BOSELLO

IA AR AD SP IO OG OL LL’OR IA DE AR RZ MA

O DIV RE O

ONI CA

CORTE DEL MORION

SALIZADA SANTA GIUSTIN A

E GAT

I ER HI EC I SP E DE LL CA

LE CAL

Basilica di San Marco

E DEI CALL

ENT A CAS

MO SA SE CO GR AD ND O O

CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA

CORTE SACCA CALLE SAN LORENZO

DAM

CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA

ASI DR

RI BB I FA DE

MAR

LA CAN LE DE

CAL

San Francesco della Vigna

SCO

DE LE

E LL

GA SAN

NCE

LLE CA

Bacino Orseolo

CALLE DEL FIGHER

LE LAR

ZI A ZOR IZAD SAL

San Giovanni Novo CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

San Lorenzo

FRA

IZADA SAL

CA AN E BI LL CA

LO EL PP CA

ZON

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO

RO VE N SE SA

CAL

NI LO EI BA C.D

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

LE CAL

CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO

IO ED M L RE DE

DEL FORNO

CORTE TORRETTA

CORTE NUOVA

CORTE

E DE LL CA

O EZ M

FA GIUF

AG GR E C. LE COLONNE ZZ DE RA RÀ TE O RI O LL GA N SA E LL CA CAMPO SAN GALLO

Palazzo Querini Stampalia

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

CORTE

FRUTARIOLI

LE SAN

CALLE ERIZZO

LE DE CAL

FON

CAL

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA

Rio San Lorenzo

A SC TA

CAMPO SANTA TIER GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA

CALLE

FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO

E DEL CAFE

CORTE NOVA

GA RU

O AT USS M

CALL

BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO

TA EN AM ND FO

LE CAL

IA ER EL SS CA

INA

E’

LICINI

DE LE BAN

San Giuliano

PRIMO RINA AMOCONTA TE

I OR

L IO

R io

IOL

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani

CORTE

RUBBI

LUC C. ATE DE TRAMONTIN LLO L TA M GIA AR PI ZA ER C. LE RI A DE A BA SA I PI LO N GN TE ZU OL LIAN I

SAL VAD OR

CA LL E DE MAR ZA M EZ RIA O DE L CA PITE LL O CORTE

CORTE GRAGOLINA

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

CORTE

C. DE

LL E

LIO

DE LA FAVA

CALICE

DE LE TOLE

SA N GIFO OVNDAM AN EN NI LA TA TE RA NO

CORTE TREVISAN

SA N

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

AD A

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione C. LARG A

CAMPO

C. DEL

San Salvador

AZEN

D. PA LLE

SAN

MA RZA RIA

L IZ

CORTE

PIO

SABION

AN SALVADOR

DE L GO

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

SA LIZ C. DE L GA LIAZZO

BARB ARIA

ZZO

CAMPO SAN LIO

CORTE DEL

Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto

GIA

Santa Maria del Pianto

CA LLE

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

LLE

ARTIN

MAZ ZINI

CA C.M

CALL

DE LE ERBE

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo

CAMPO NO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

REM

PIO

TEG

FOR

DEL CO O

SA LIZZ AD A

FON

i M e

nd G. GA LLI

LE DEL

CALL E

CALLE CAVALL I

TEL

CAL LE MAS SA C. DE LE MOS CHE TE

Teatro Malibran

LE CAS

LE MUR

CAL

AN A

CAL

IERA

BR ESS

LL CA

LE VEN

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo

CA LLE

San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti

DE UO

LAR

R io

DR IO CA LLE LE SC

CA LLE

VENEZIA

D IS

TE ST A

CAL

O RN FO

RIO

CA LLE GA BR IEL

E DE

CA LL

CORTE NOVA

CA VE RRLLE DE L OC CH IO

CORTE CORTESE

CAMPIELLO STELLA

C ALL E

CAN ZIAN

S.G. GRISOS TOMO

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN VA RI SC O

LE COC

C. DEL

CAL

I B O

CAL LE

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

S.Canciano

Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi te alto

DEL

omo to

METO

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

A SAN

RIO TER RÀ

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

C O RT E B ATA G I A

AR NN

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

TI ET OR EM LL CA

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

SAL IZAD

ST EL LA

SAN TI

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CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

CA LL E

APO STO

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San Giovanni Grisostomo

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

AZZ O

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lc e

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i Ap os

CA LL

SART ORI

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de i

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CAMPO DEI GESUITI

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ND RE

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angelica ana

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Santi Apostoli

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Chiesa S. Maria Assunta

FOND .

LA RG A

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MALAMOCCO

CA ND

FO ND

ISOLA POVEGLIA

R I VA G I O VA N N I D I A C O N O

SE NA

S. Servolo

11 BURANO

12 TORCELLO

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5 STAR DELUXE (L) & 5 STAR Aman Canal Grande Venice Resort Hotel – San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo Baiamonte) • E4 Baglioni Hotel Luna – San Marco, 1243 • F5 Bauer Palazzo (L) – San Marco, 1459 • F5 Belmond Hotel Cipriani (L) – Giudecca, 10 • F6 Ca’ Sagredo (L) – Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99 • E3 Excelsior Venice (L) – Lungomare Marconi, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map Grand Hotel Dei Dogi – Cannaregio, 3500 (Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto) • E2 Hilton Molino Stucky (L) – Giudecca, 810 • C6 Hotel Danieli – Castello, 4196 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • F5 JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa (L) – Isola delle Rose – (Laguna di San Marco) • Off Map Londra Palace – Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4 Metropole – Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149 • G4 Palladio Hotel & SPA – Giudecca, 33 • F5 San Clemente Palace Kempinski (L) – Isola di San Clemente, 1 • Off Map SINA Centurion Palace – Dorsoduro, 173 • F5 The Gritti Palace – Campo Santa Maria del Giglio • E5 The Westin Europa & Regina –San Marco, 2159 • E5 4 STAR & LUXURY RESIDENCES A La Commedia – San Marco, 4596 • E4 Ai Mori d’Oriente – Cannaregio, 3319 (Fondamenta Sensa) • E2 Best Western Premier Collection CHC Continental – Cannaregio, 166 (Rio Terà Lista di Spagna) • D3 Biasutti Hotel – Via Dandolo, 29 – (Lido) • Off Map Bisanzio – Riva degli Schiavoni-Calle della Pietà, 3651 • G4 Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4488 (Calle Goldoni) • F4 Bucintoro – Castello, 2135/a • H5 Carlton On The Grand Canal – Santa Croce 578 • C3 Carnival Palace – Fondamenta di Cannaregio, 929 • C2 Cavalletto & Doge Orselo – San Marco, 1107 (Sotoportego del Cavalletto) • F4 Colombina – Castello, 4416 (Calle del Remedio) • F4 Concordia – San Marco, 367 (Calle Larga San Marco) • F4 Duodo Palace – San Marco, 1887/1888 (Calle Minelli) • D3 Firenze – San Marco, 1490 • F5 Foscari Palace – Cannaregio, 4200/1/2 (Campo Santa Sofia) • E3 Grande Albergo Ausonia & Hungaria – Gran Viale S. M. Elisabetta, 28 (Lido) • Off Map Le Boulevard – Granviale S. Maria Elisabetta, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map Le Ville del Lido – Via Bragadin, 38 (Lido) • Off Map Liassidi Palace – Castello, 3405 (Ponte dei Greci) • G4 L’Orologio Venezia – San Polo, 1777 (Riva del l’Ogio) • E3 Locanda Vivaldi – Castello, 4150/52 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4 Monaco & Grand Canal – San Marco, 1332 (Calle Vallaresso) • F5 Nani Mocenigo Palace – Dorsoduro, 960 (Fondamenta Nani) • D5

NH Collection Palazzo Barocci –San Marco, 3878/A (Corte dell’Albero) • E4 Palace Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4680 (Calle dei Fabbri) • F4 Palazzetto Pisani Boutique Resort – San Marco, 2814 • E5 Palazzo Giovanelli – Santa Croce, 2070 (Campo San Stae) • E3 Palazzo Guardi – Dorsoduro, 995 • D5 Palazzo Stern – Dorsoduro, 2792/A • D5 Palazzo Veneziano – Dorsoduro, 1413 • D5 Pesaro Palace – Cannaregio, 3935 (Calle Ca’ D’oro) • E3 Petit Palais Venice – Lungomare Marconi, 54 (Lido) • Off Map Principe – Cannaregio, 146 (Lista di Spagna) • D3 Quattro Fontane – Via Quattro Fontane, 16 (Lido) • Off Map Rialto – San Marco, 5149 (Riva del Ferro) • F4 Royal San Marco – Santa Croce, 578 • F4 Russo Palace Hotel – Riviera San Nicolò, 11/a (Lido) • Off Map Ruzzini Palace – Castello, 5866 (Campo di Santa Maria Formosa) • F4 San Marco Palace – Piazza San Marco, 875 • F4 Santa Chiara – Santa Croce, 548 • C3 Santa Marina – Castello, 6068 (Calle Seco Marina) • F4 Saturnia & International – San Marco, 2399 • E5 SINA Palazzo Sant’Angelo – San Marco, 3878/B – 3488 • E4 Starhotels Splendid Venice – San Marco, 760 (San Marco Mercerie) • F4 Torre Dell’ Orologio - San Marco Luxury Venice – San Marco, 288 • F4 Una Hotel Venezia – Cannaregio, 4173 (Ruga Do Pozzi) • F3 Villa Laguna – Via Sandro Gallo, 6 – (Lido) • Off Map Villa Mabapa – Riviera San Nicolò, 16 (Lido) • Off Map Villa Pannonia – Via Doge Michiel, 48 – (Lido) • Off Map BOUTIQUE & CHARME HOTELS TOP Ai Cavalieri di Venezia – Castello, 6108 (Calle Borgolocco) • F4 Ai Due Principi – Castello, 4972 (Fondamenta de l'Osmarin) • G5 Ai Reali di Venezia – Castello, 5527 (Campo della Fava) • F4 Aqua Palace – Castello, 5492/a (Calle de la Malvasia) • F4 Ca Maria Adele – Dorsoduro, 111 • E5 Ca’ Nigra Lagoon Resort – Santa Croce, 927 • D3 Canal Grande – Santa Croce, 932 • D3 Dei Dragomanni – San Marco, 2711 • E5 Flora – San Marco, 2283/a • E4 Heureka – Cannaregio, 3534 • E2 La Calcina – Dorsoduro, 789 (Zattere) • D6 Moresco – Dorsoduro, 3499 (Fondamenta del Passamonte) • D4 Palazzetto Madonna – San Polo, 2902 • D4 Palazzina G – San Marco, 3247 • D4 Palazzo Abadessa – Cannaregio, 4011 (Calle Priuli) • E3 Palazzo Barbarigo sul Canal Grande – San Polo, 2765 (Calle Corner) • E4 Palazzo Paruta – San Marco, 3824 • E4

Palazzo Priuli – Fondamenta de l'Osmarin, 4979 • G4 Palazzo Venart – S. Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron) • E3 CLASSIC Ad Place Venice – San Marco, 2557/A (Fondamenta della Fenice) • E5 Al Ponte Antico – Cannaregio, 5768 (Calle dell’Aseo) • F3 Antiche Figure – Santa Croce, 687 • C3 Antico Doge – Cannaregio, 5643 • F3 Arcadia – Cannaregio, 1333 (Rio Terà S. Leonardo) • D2 Belle Arti – Dorsoduro, 912/A (Rio Terrà Foscarini) • D5 Bloom B&B – San Marco, 3470 • E4 Ca’ del Campo – San Marco, 511 (Campo della Guerra) • F4 Ca’ Gottardi – Cannaregio, 2283 • E3 Ca’ Pagan – San Marco, 3268 (Calle delle Carrozze) • D4 Casa Verardo – Castello, 4765 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo) • F4 Charming House – Dorsoduro, 724 (San Vio) • E5 Corte di Gabriela – San Marco, 3836 (Calle Avvocati) • E4 Le Isole – Castello, 4661 (Campo San Provolo) • G4 Locanda Ca’ del Brocchi – Dorsoduro, 470 (Rio Terà San Vio) • E5 Locanda de la Spada – San Marco, 2488/a • E5 Locanda Fiorita – San Marco, 3457/a (Campiello Novo) • E4 Novecento – San Marco, 2683 (Calle Dose) • E5 Oltre il Giardino – San Polo, 2542 • D4 Palazzo Barbarigo sul Canal Grande – San Polo, 2765 (Calle Corner) • E4 Santa Chiara – Santa Croce, 548 • C3 Villa Ines – Via Lazzaro Mocenigo, 10 (Lido) • Off Map OUT OF TOWN 4 STAR & LUXURY RESIDENCES Alexander – Via Forte Marghera , 193/C – Mestre (Ve) Antony Hotel – Via Orlanda, 182 – Mestre (Ve) Antony Palace Hotel – Via E. Mattei, 26 – Marcon (Ve) Best Western Hotel Airvenice – Via G. Pascoli, 1 – Quarto d’Altino (Ve) Best Western Hotel Bologna – Via Piave, 214 – Mestre (Ve) Best Western Plus Quid Hotel Venice Airport – Via Terraglio, 15 – Mestre (Ve) Best Western Titian Inn Hotel Venice Airport – Via Orlanda, 240/244 – Tessera (Ve) Courtyard by Marriott Venice Airport – Via Triestina, 170 – Tessera (Ve) Hilton Garden Inn Venice Mestre San Giuliano – Via Orlanda, 1 – Mestre (Ve) NH Laguna Palace – Viale Ancona, 2 – Mestre (Ve) VENIC E CITY

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Autum Lightns

This sea son's mo unmissa ble sig st hts

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