FLORENCE CITY GUIDE ®
JUNE 2018
FLORENCE.WHEREITALIA.COM
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Florence June 2018 V
52 IA
DINING
S
E S T
the guide
E
CASTELLO
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DE
IP A
ZZ
I
E
SO H DE
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IN I
CC RA O
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NI
NT
MO DI V IA
IA
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AS
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CA
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O LL GA N SA
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N
P IR
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V IA
VI
A
SA
A
Convento di San Marco
PIAZZA SAN MARCO
A
SA
N
SA
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LO
RE
PA
RA
TA
IL E
A
VI
UT
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Spedale deg
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LI
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CA
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Centro Lingustico Rotonda del Brunelleschi
IA
A
V
VI
CI
O
Museo Leonardo da Vinci
AC
PIAZZA FILIPPO BRUNELLESCHI
C
Università degli Studi di Firenze
I
L
E
LI
S
SO
E
I
CA RI
IA
A
V
Museo dell'Opera di Santa Maria del Fiore
Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore
Orator Santom D'aqu
DE
BAR DI
Chiesa San Felicita
VI
A
D
LU
E
B
AR
D
NG
AR
NO
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I
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Palazzo Pitti
UC
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A
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PIAZZ
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BE
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Teatro Verdi Santi
Chiesa Evangelica Metodista
VIA
d.
DE I NE RI
BO
SAN RG O
OC TA CR
E
CO
RS
A.
I
VIA
AR NO
PIAZZA DI SANTA MARIA SOPR'ARNO
EG
P. SA PIE MAGG
e Giuda VSimone IA TO
DE RTA LL 'AN GU ILL AR A
Anfiteatro Romano di Firenze
DE LL E BR AC HE
DE I RU ST IC I
CI
San Remigio VIA
B E N TA C C O V. RD
GRE
VIA DEI SAPO VIA DEI VAGELLAI NAI PIAZZA DEI GIUDICI PIAZZA VIA V. MALEN LUN GAR CHINI, MENTANA NO GEN ERA LE DIAZ V.
VIA
COR NO
VIN EG IA
DE I NE RI
DEI
MO SC A
A
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VIA
GO
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PIAZZA DEL GRANO
T'
ALBIZI
VIA DEI PANDOLFINI
V. DEL LA BURELLA VIA DELL 'ANG UILLA RA VIA
Complesso di San Firenze
DE L LE ON E
DEL LA
VIA
VIA
Uffizi
VI A D EI BARBADORI
PIAZZA I SANTA FELICITA DIN IAR ICC ' GU DE
Palazzo Gondi
N
VIA GHIBE LLINA
Museo del Bargello
Palazzo Vecchio
VIA
VIA LU GIR OLA NG MI AR NO AR CH IBU SIE RI
DEGLI
VIA VIGNA VECCHIA
OS TE RIA
VIA LA MB ER TE SC A
Santo Stefano al Ponte
PIAZZA DEL PESCE
SA
Palazzo Borghese
Badia Fiorentina
GU AN TO
Loggia dei Lanzi PIAZ ZAL E DEG LI UFF IZI
VI.DE LL’O RO
Torre degli Amidei
VIA DANTE
PIAZZA DI SAN FIRENZE
VAC CHE REC CIA
PIAZZA DEI SALTERELLI
Ponte Vecchio
PIAZZA DEI CERCHI
BORGO
VIA DELLA CONDOTTA
PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA
V. CALIMARUZZA
VIA
VIA DEL PROCONSOLO
VIA TAVOLINI
V. DEI MAGAZZINI
VIA CORSO
Loggia dell’ Orsanmichele Arte della Lana San Carlo dei Lombardi
V IA
RIUOLO
ZI
Santa Margherita in S.M. dei Ricci
CA ST EL LA NI
SAN
V.BONIZ
VIA DEI CERCHI
VIA ROMA
V. DEI MEDICI
VIA DEI CALZAIUOLI
V. SPEZIALI
NICA
VIA DELLE OCHE
VIA PORTA ROSSA
PIAZZA PARTE GUELFA
VIA CA PAC PO CIO R SA NT A MA RIA
CHIAS SO RICAS SOLI V.D.BO MBAR DE
V.CANO
VIA DEI TOSINGHI
VIA LAMBERTI
Loggia del Porcellino
VC.PANICO
DE LL E TE RM E
VIA
DEI
V. DELL'O
P. DEI TRE RE
VIA PELLICCERIA
VIA MONALDA
Palazzo delle Poste
VIA
I
S
TE
LL
V
A DE
VIA
D
LOR ENZ O
Teatro Pucci
RI
VI
VIA DE’
SAN
MAR TELL I
’ G O
V
DE
Ospedale Santa Maria Nuova
VIA DEI BRUNELLESCHI
VECCHIETTI
VIA DE'
V. D.PESCIONI
VIA DEI TORNABUONI
NO ER
I
R
A
Teatro Niccolini
Battistero di San Giovanni
PIAZZA DELLA REPUBBLICA
VIA DEGLI ANSELMI
LL’
INF
N
E
UR
VI
AN
EL AN SC TO
PIAZZA DEI PITTI
LF A
V.
V. DEI PECORI
TI APO Santi Apostoli STO LU CH LI NG IAS AR e Biagio SO NO DE DE I DE GL I AC L BE CIA NE IOL I
VIA
A
RI
PIAZZA SAN LORENZO
Santa Maria Maggiore
Palazzo Bartolini Palazzo Salinbeni Davanzati
SC
I
LI
VIA DEI CERRETANI
Palazzo P. DEGLI Strozzi STROZZI
Chiesa San Jacopo
LA
UT
VIA DE’ CONTI
DE LL ’A LL OR O
EG
S
DE ’GIN OR I
VIA
VI
DE’ VIA
Palazzo Medici Riccardi
NEL LI
D
VO
ORI
CA
A
GIN
CE
NO
B. L A DEI
PIAZZA DELLA SANTISSIMA ANNUNZIA
Galleria dell’Accademia
VI A
O
DE
VIA
LL
LL
GU EL FA
I T IN
VIA
I VE
I VE
CAN TO
C
M
R
VI
DE
DEL
BOR GO
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VIA
VIA DEGLI STROZZI
V. DE
MA
DE
N
A
GI O
SA
A
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Giardin dei Semp
A R
G .L
P
V.
IG
TO
NO
R TI
V.
VIA
Basilica di San Lorenzo
BORG P.TTA DEGLI O SA ANGIOLIERI N IAC OPO
A
VI A
ES PR L DE
V.
AN
EC
VI VI
V IA
C AT
S.
VI
A
LI
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N TA MO
A
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NO DEL LE
TO
R
GR
Ponte alle Grazie AN
I
w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 3
V IA
R
G
VIA AGLI
IO
Ponte Santa Trinita
M AG
DI
TO
A
EL
Palazzo della Missione
PIAZZA DE' FRESCOBALDI
VI A A IE D LE
EL D V IA
II
SAN IO RG GIO
VI
OM
D
V.D. FIO RDA LISO
DE I FO SS I
I
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IG
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IA
N DR
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PA
L
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LI AG RR
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STA CO
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VI
PIAZZA DEL MERCATO CENTRALE
IO RG GIO
DE
X
OLI GN MA
R
Mercato Centrale
SAN
IO
I ON NN V.ZA
Museo Salvatore Ferragamo
TT
P
Chiesa di San Felice in Piazza
OR
Basilica di Santa Trinita
PI
CC
EI
TA
PU
D
ET
M
ZZ
Teatro Goldoni
CA
X
VI A
E
L
VIA
Palazzo Macchiavelli
PIAZZA SANTO SPIRITO
V.
VI A
I N
A NUO A VIGN VI A DE L PU VIA DEI RG PARI ONE AT
Basilica di Santo Spirito
IO
L
AD
VA
BO Palazzo RG O SA Gucciardini NT O SP IRITO
Palazzo Guadagni
DE
A
V. DEI CORSI V. DEL CAMPIDOGLIO
Museo A Marino Marini
Palazzo Corsini al Parione LU NG AR NO CO RS INI
SA
V IA
SP
VIA DELL
LU NG AR NO
A
Ex monastero delle Convertite (1330)
N
DEI
A
IE
A
VIA
V.
ER
O
E
RO
D'O
LE ON
GO
DRA
DE L
E
ON
DE
VI A
DI CO
N AC
IO
Z
STA CO
CES
A
IA
EL FA
STA CO
L
CH
LL
E
A
DE
EI
IL
ELL
U
Chiesa dei Santi Michele e Gaetano
N
LL
A
TREB
PalazzoBIO Antinori
O
V
MO
V
VIA DEI BANCH I
V. DEL
R
V
I
MA
IA
N TA
A
V IA
SP
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V.
AN
A
C
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S.
A
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DI
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SD
Giardino Torrigiani
CA
S
A
A
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Loggia di San Paolo
VI
VI
SA
Chiesa di Santa Maria del Carmine
L
IS
O
NO
CA
IAN
TI
D EL
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VI A
A
AG
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U AR
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SG
L
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Chiesa di San Paolino
PIAZZA GOLDONI
BO
VI A
V IA
DE
N
SA
LL
B EL
O SA N
RG PIAZZA O DE LLA DEL CARMINE ST
OR TO
PIAZZA TORQUATO TASSO
V IA
G
A
HIE
NA
DI
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N
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LO
Ponte alla Carraia
VIA
DEL
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Santi Vito e Modesto
A
VI
V IA
DI M ELE G N AN O
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VIA
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Chiesa S. Frediano in Cestello
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Giardino Palazzo Pandolfini Chiesa di S. Giovanni dei Cavalieri
BE NC
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S
I
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IA
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AL
ZZ
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PIAZZA SANTA MARIA NOVELLA
NE RO O SP LL DE
AL
TO
LA
VE SP UC CI
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BU
VI
R A M
I IN AN
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AN
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IA
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I
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VIA
D
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AT
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DI
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O LF
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VI
VIA
A
Ognissanti
I
IO
VI
T
Chiesa d
AC
VIA
FR ED
N IF
O SA N
BO
N
AR N
PIAZZA DE’ NERLI
PI
BO RG
S TA
A
LU NG AR NO
Ponte Amerigo Vespucci
Porta San Frediano
LU
O
O
ET
A
IV
VI
OL
D ’A
S
TE
TE
CA
IS
AN
ON
DU
N
M
G
Arco
Porta San G
I I N G N V A L A V IA
O
II
D.
O
E
NE
NO
V IA
G
L
INO
R
R ID
P. DELL'UNITÀ ALDOBRANDINI ITALIANA VIA DEL MELARANCIO
Basilica di Santa Maria Novella
E
E
ND
O
LO
G
erina da Cat na S. da S i e
D
U
LA
EL
V
IA
N
C.
B
C.
PIAZZA D E L L A S TA Z I O N E
V
A
VIA
M
I
B
TE
LO
A region rich in natural thermal B E springs, L L O S G U ATuscany RDO offers a wide choice of relaxation and wellbeing experiences. DI
NIN
N
O
I
STUDIO VIA DELLO
PIS AN A
N
C O TA A R S P
San Barnaba
Stazione Ferroviaria Firenze Santa Maria Novella
LE
SA
RE
CO
IFI
A
Cenacolo di Foligno
SO
A
VIA
VA
O
U
M
N
LT O
I I M
GN
MA ZO
» MAP PAGES 78-79
A
E
IO
ZZ
65 SPA VENUES IN TUSCANY PIAZZA PIER VETTORI
RE
LA
Giardino dell'Orticoltu
IO
RA
PA
ZZ
VI A
DONN E
RO
SA
A
R
BB
L
B
N TA
CE
A
O
FE
C
V.
San Giuliano
I
T
IX
S
IN
IT
VIA
A
NN
L
SA
NN
ZZ I
R TE
V
RE
MB
VA
GIO
LE
IA
G MU
RU
L
CE
B.
DE
NO
TTE
SE
XX
Nostra Signora del Sacro Cuore
I
TO
LE
AR
L
GG
EN
D EL
M
CI
LIO
UC
GIU
SP
E
Firenze Fiera
PIAZZA ADUA
V IA
NG
VI
Santa Lucia sul Prato
NI
LU
VIA
IA
IA
D
Giardino di Valfonda
V.
O
Casa di Riposo della Beata Elisabetta Vendramini
IA
PO
TR
A
GL
ER
ET
LF
A
A
VI
SO
V
Giardino degli Orti Oricellari
Polimoda
V IA
BA C. AB
Chiesa episcopale americana di St. James
I A
X
O
ND
L
VE
V. G.
NI
FO
O
CC
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TO
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IG
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AN
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AN
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A
VI
Orti del Parnaso
TTI
E A L V I
E
T
S
IE
R
ROMITINO
V. DEL
VIA
I NT ’ CO DE
OV
A
R
AM
T
IA
V
VIA
GI
VI
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TO EN ’ARI LL DE VIA
AR
INO
CC
I
A
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ISP
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A
BELLE
PIS AN A
NG
E
PIAZZA TADDEO GADDI
II
R O C
ON
CO
VI
VIA DELLE
VIA
LU
Ponte della Vittoria
E
GN
SC
ON
PI
CE
O
AN
L
O
FR
IN
VIA
R
NIEVO
E
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ZZ I
A
I
O
NC
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NN
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VI
LI
’ V A
PI
E
PIAZZA DELLA VITTORIA
FIL
L
RNA
LE
F
E
Villa Fabbricotti
L
LARGO CESARE CANTÙ
INI
LARGO MARTIRI DELLE FOIBE
VIA
EL
L
BRONZINO
A
L
B
E
I
ADO DEI C
RN
FRA
VIA
TO
VIA
IN
DE
DE
IA
I
LL
SE
FIL
LE
V. DEGLI AVELLI
AS
O
E
CE
TU
S
T
SCH
VI
VIA PIAZZALE BAMBINE E BAMBINI DI BESLAN
San Jacopo di Ripoli
Eight starred restaurants for a triumph of flavours, aromas and untold creativity.
ND
A
NO
N
M I LA ANN
VI
E
C
VI
AR
O
U
VIA
UM FI
LA
NG
BA
M
BRU
Fortezza da Basso
A VI
EL
B.
IA
V
LLA
ZA EN FA
V
IA
DE
VIA
A VI
V. D
A
V IA
Giardino di Palazzo Corsini sul Prato
V
IO
LI NC OL N
GG
EL
TA O S
AT
LL
U
LI
RESTAURANTS
LU VI
I
O E GI
DE
S
LL
N
V. I.
VIA
CA RR
TI
VI A
AS
PIAZZA VITTORIO VENETO
AB RA MO
VI A
ET E
G
S RO
56 MICHELIN-STARRED FR
MA
RO
LI
FR
VIA
PIAZZALE DI PORTA AL PRATO Porta al Prato
L SE
E AT
LAM
NATE UE GIOR E CINQ VIA DELL
IV
LG. PORTA LEOPOLDA
EN
EG
XX
I
M
FI LA R
VIA
CC
DO
IN S
LU
VIA
ON
O
EL
BU
S IM
A
CO
STAR NIN
GU
DI
AR DO
I
Stazione Leopolda
Chiesa Di San Bartolomeo a Monte Oliveto
Take advantage of your stay in Florence to enjoy this season’s latest offerings.
A
DA
NO
HE
V IA
VI AL E Ponte delle Cascine
IG IO
ZINO BRON
Chiesa Parrocchiale Santissimo Crocifisso a Monticelli
IC
US
Teatro dell’Opera
VI
Z IA
VI
Several of the best shopping destinations not far from Florence.
Chiesa di San Pietro a Monticelli
RO
D
VIA
IM
BA
A EL LO
Giardino della Fortezza
FON
CI AB
V. L.
NN
RAFF
VIAL
VAL
FR AN
VA
A
Information and tips to experience the best that Florence has to offer
VIA
DE L
G IO
M
74 ESSENTIALS
A
I
DEL
P IE
NE
SI
N
VE
AS
AN
D.
B
AM
VIA
INO SOV SAN
NA SA PI
A VI
C
Chiesa San Jacopino
L IA
LI
LI
A
LO
CEL
MAR
TTO
48 FASHION OUTLETS
AR NO
V IA
VI A
IA VO
VI
DE ENE
IG
ID
A
I
LU
DE
VI
L
V IA
ZO
L
NI
AZ
E
AN
PA L
O IOL LLA PO
V.
IO
S
E
IO
G . FA BBRO NI Parrocchia Immacolata e San Martino a Montughi
V I A G U I D O S PA D O L I N I
AM I AL
L
24 GIFT GUIDE CC
S
PA
R
PIAZZALE DELLA COSTITUZIONE
LU IG
DE
O
PISANA
V. DU
S
PIAZZA ALESSANDRO BONSANTI
Ippodromo del Visarno
I
VIA
V.
V. GH ER
O
AS
Chiesa Cattolica Parrocchiale Sacro Cuore al Romito
VI A
VIA
M
G
O
One of the most beautiful of Florence’s basilicas, San Miniato al Monte
RIA
PIAZZA DI SAN IACOPINO
CO
PIAZZA PIER DELLA FRANCESCA
L DE
NIO TO AN
E
SSE
CIA IE
IOV VIA G
SI O DO
L
O
I SPONTINI
NA
RSO
CO
T
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Suggestions for trips outside the city that are able to satisfy any need. R
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This month’s round-up of fashion shows, art exhibitions, and sport.
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Panoramic view of the city of Florence, with a focus on the cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore. © Shutterstock
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Contents
FLORENCE.WHEREITALIA.COM
LE
GIFT GUIDE Angela Caputi Giuggiù
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Cantinetta Antinori boasts a full range of Marchesi Antinori wines, accompanied by seasonal Tuscan dishes
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Welcome to the Art City
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Winter Garden by Caino
The Florence Experiment, Palazzo Strozzi
JUNE 2018
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Inside Palazzo Spini Feroni, the Ferragamo boutique hosts all the fashion house’s collections
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WELCOME TO FLORENCE
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TOURIST INFORMATION FOR AN UNFORGETTABLE EXPERIENCE Dear friends, We at Where® feel very lucky. First of all because we live in Italy, in one of the most beautiful places in the world, and also because we can act as your guide to discover this country.
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“Discover and enjoy” is our motto. And updated, precise and reliable tourist information is the key for the modern traveler to be able to optimise the increasingly limited resource that is time. Average stays in the cities of the world are little more than 48 hours. Our mission is to rid you of the anxiety of missing something fundamental during these few hours. Many of you arrive in Italy from the other side of the world. Here at Where® Italia we are all in love with this country and we have also travelled the world, finding The Wa ourselves in the role of visitors. y we Were Welcome to The Where® brand has existed since 1936. With its the Art City ethical and information-giving principles. The container has evolved over time. Colourful and pleasing graphics, presence with a digital edition and on the social networks, but always at the Wild Summer service of the visitor. Always in partnership with the luxury hotels. An agreement of reciprocity at the service of quality tourism. With Where® providing complete and precise information and the hotels providing comprehensive distribution. VENICE CITY
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THE OF THE ALLURE
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History, architecture SIGHTS EEING | MUSEU and beauties MS | SHO PPING of Renaissance | DIN
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ITALIAN-STYLE GIFT GUIDE Our pick of the best seasonal trends
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ALL THE ALLURE OF TUSCANY Several out-of-town destinations for a fun, relaxing experience
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All you can do in the city and its surroundings
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Today Where® arrives in Florence. After Milan, Venice, Rome and Naples. For the whole world Florence represents the Renaissance. A historical period in which, around 500 years ago, the flourishing economy favoured the arts with the creation of eternal masterpieces. Florence is also food and craftsmanship and is located in the heart of a region where nature and culture are integrated in breathtaking landscapes. Place your trust in Where® to make your visit an unforgettable experience.
HOTEL RELATION MANAGER Maria Granata (maria.granata@whereitalia.com) HOTEL INFORMATION SERVICES Cristina Garbini (cristina.garbini@whereitalia.com) REG. TRIB. MILANO No.156 DEL 10/05/2018 WHERE ITALIA SRL, ISCRITTO AL ROC NO. 20182 DEL 14 SETTEMBRE 2010 DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE (BG) Although the publisher has made every effort to include copyright credits, in the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would like to apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published in the next issue.
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4 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I J U N E 2018
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Top in town 1
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DUOMO AND CUPOLA Completed in 1436, at the time the Duomo in Florence was the largest Christian church in the world. Today the religious building, the official name of which is “Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore”, is third in terms of dimensions after St. Peter’s in Rome and St. Paul’s Cathedral in London. Brunelleschi’s Dome, still the tallest construction in the city, is a symbol known all over the world. 1
CAMPANILE DI GIOTTO 84.70 metres high and around 15 wide, the Giotto’s bell tower is one of the four main components of the complex of Santa Maria del Fiore. Lined with white, red and green marble, the majestic square-based bell tower, designed by Giotto in 1334, can be visited by climbing no less than 414 stairs up to the top, from where you can enjoy extraordinary views of Brunelleschi’s Dome. 3
BATTISTERO The Baptistery of St. John the Baptist is characterised by an octagonal plan, lined with a dome of eight segments, covered by a pyramid roof. The outside is decorated with white marble from Carrara and green marble from Prato, characteristics of the Florentine architecture of the Romanesque period. 2
PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA AND PALAZZO VECCHIO This is the central square of Florence, the seat of civil power and social heart of the city. Facing onto it are Palazzo Vecchio (the seat of the Municipal Council of Florence), the splendid Loggia della Signoria, the Tribunale della Mercanzia, Palazzo Uguccioni and Palazzo delle Assicurazioni Generali. Also prominent in the
8 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I J U N E 2018
square are the Fountain of Neptune and a series of statues of Renaissance origin, representing one of the most important sculptural cycles in the world. The most famous is certainly Michelangelo’s David (this is a copy, whereas the original is conserved in the Galleria dell’Accademia). 4 GALLERIA DEGLI UFFIZI One of the most famous museums in the world on account of its extraordinary collections of ancient sculptures and paintings (from the Middle Ages to the modern age). The Gallery occupies the first and second floors of the large building erected between 1560 and 1580 based on a project by Giorgio Vasari 5 PONTE VECCHIO The official date of foundation of the current Ponte Vecchio is given as 1345. For the entire
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MORE AT PAGE 66 MAP PAGES 78-79 SAN MINIATO AL MONTE The Abbey of San Miniato al Monte is a medieval religious building situated at one of the highest panoramic points in Florence. The most spectacular access is gained via the monumental flight of steps. The outside of the church is decorated with green and white marble, typical of Florentine Romanesque, while the interior, which is unusual and of great beauty, boasts one of the city’s best conserved original floors. 10
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MERCATO CENTRALE Built at the end of the 19th century, the Central Market is a building of a certain architectural merit. The project was entrusted to Giuseppe Mengoni, the architect of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele in Milan, who was inspired by Les Halles in Paris. Today, a point of reference for informal but good quality cuisine for both Florentines and tourists. 11 SANTA CROCE One of the “great basilicas” in Florence, a point of reference of the Franciscan order. Giotto painted some of his great masterpieces here and the French writer Stendhal experienced that profound artistic agitation that has been known since then as the “Stendhal syndrome”. The basilica contains the monumental sepulchres of Michelangelo, Galileo and Machiavelli. 12
Middle Ages the bridge hosted greengrocers’, fishmongers’ and butchers’ shops, who used the river to dispose of their waste in a hurry. At the end of the 16th century, however, when it became the “noble” zone of the city, the goldsmiths and jewellers started to arrive, and they have been there uninterruptedly to this day. 6 CORRIDOIO VASARIANO The Vasari Corridor is a raised walkway connecting Ponte Vecchio with Palazzo Pitti. It is a rather narrow passage the entrance to which is at the beginning of the second corridor of the Uffizi Gallery; it then stretches along the Arno, over the Ponte Vecchio, finally arriving at Palazzo Pitti. It was built in 1565 by the great Florentine architect Giorgio Vasari. On display along the Corridor are over 1000 paintings. 7
PALAZZO PITTI AND GIARDINO DI BOBOLI The symbol of wealth and power, the building was inhabited by the Medici, then by the Habsburg-Lorraines and, after the Unity of Italy, by the Savoy family. The original architecture dates back to the 15th century and “Pitti” is the surname of its first owner. The building is located Oltrarno, at the foot of Boboli Hill. The Boboli Gardens are one of the most important examples of Italian-style gardens in the world. 8 PIAZZALE MICHELANGELO This is the most famous and appreciated panoramic point in Florence, with its views seen all over the world in million of postcards and reproductions. The design of the square dates back to 1869, when Florence was capital of Italy. Dedicated to the city’s most famous artist, the square has bronze copies of some of Michelangelo’s most famous sculptures. 9
SANTA MARIA NOVELLA A point of reference of the Dominican order, the church, with its elegant façade by Leon Battista Alberti, is a harmonious synthesis of Gothic and Renaissance styles. It hosts exceptional works of art by Masaccio, Giotto, Brunelleschi, Filippino Lippi, Domenico Ghirlandaio and Paolo Uccello. 13 SANTO SPIRITO A point of reference of the Augustinian order. The church has given its name to the entire surrounding neighbourhood, “Borgo Santo Spirito”. A jewel of Renaissance architecture, the church was the last great project by Filippo Brunelleschi. 14 SAN LORENZO One of the “great basilicas” of Florence, founded, according to the tradition, by Saint Ambrose, the first bishop of Milan, in the 4th century AD. Its current appearance, however, is the result of the last major reconstruction work that took place in the 15th century at the wishes of the Medici and under the direction of the great architect Filippo Brunelleschi. 15 w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 9
WHERE NOW | HOT DATES JUNE
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JUNE Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating Italian traditions, art and music or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates. INSTALLATION
19 26 APRIL
AUGUST
DOWN THE SLIDE AT THE MUSEUM! How powerful can the empathy be between plants and human beings? German artist Carsten Höller and Italian scientist Stefano Mancuso, founder of the study of plant neurobiology, have decided to attempt to answer this question by creating an extraordinary and unbelievable experience for the general public inside the spaces of Palazzo Strozzi. Two monumental slides inside the courtyard allow visitors to slide down 20 metres taking a bean seedling with them, which will be compared with others that have not experienced the exciting adventure. In two film screening rooms, on the other hand, the fear or enjoyment of visitors when watching horror or comedy films produce different volatile chemical compounds that, through two suction ducts, are transported onto the façade, where they will be able (who knows?) to influence the growth of the climbing wisteria plants. The Florence Experiment proposes to reflect on the communicative and emotional capacities of all living beings. Not really convinced? You just need to grab hold of your bean plant and jump down the slide to prove it. The Florence Experiment Palazzo Strozzi, Piazza Strozzi Open daily 10am-8pm; Thursdays 10am-11pm www.palazzostrozzi.org #FlorenceExperiment
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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES OPEN-AIR
TWO WORLD WHEELS
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▼ The Italian Grand Prix at the Mugello Circuit is one of the most eagerly anticipated appointments on the MotoGP calendar. North-east of Florence, in the splendid Tuscan countryside, the Mugello is among the most spectacular, safe and diverse tracks JUNE JUNE on the entire world panorama. With its combination of slow bends and fast curves, slopes and descents, which make the competition compelling and exciting, it is a circuit that is much loved by all and, at the same time, one of the most demanding for both riders and technicians. Some of the most extraordinary motorcycle races have taken place around its 5,245 metres, with protagonists such as Micheal Doohan, who dominated the sport in the 1990s, and then the Italian riders Rossi, Biaggi, Capirossi. The track in Scarperia is a masterpiece, immersed in the gentle hills that surround it: a varied territory, to a large extent uncontaminated, rich in history, culture and art, making it well worth a visit.
MotoGP - Oakley Italian Grand Prix 2018 Autodromo Internazionale del Mugello. Via Senni 15, Scarperia (FI) www.motogp.com - www.mugellocircuit.it
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JUNE
MUSICAL DELIGHTS WITH THE BELVEDERE ▲ Its splendid panoramic location overlooking Florence earned it the name “Villa Belvedere”: Villa Bardini is reminiscent of the “Casini di delizia” [Country Houses of Delight] that were widespread in Florence between the late 16th and the first half of the 17th century, created for rest and relaxation. In June this unique location hosts no less than three appointments of the “Maggio Fiorentino” cultural festival: three concerts with a varied and exciting programme, to be enjoyed in the surroundings of the marvellous gardens: no less than four hectares of woodland, Italian-style gardens and orchards.
Festival del Maggio fiorentino – Concerts in the museums 12 June, 6pm: Open-Air Concert, Ensemble for wind instruments by the Conservatorio di Musica “Luigi Cherubini” of Florence 20 June, 6pm: Finale d’atto, Singers and pianists from the Accademia del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino 29 June, 6pm: Un viaggio tra gli stili, Namaste clarinet quintet Villa Bardin. Costa San Giorgio, 2 www.villabardini.it
ROCK
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A CONCERT FOUR DAYS LONG
► Four days of music, and what music! The programme of the Firenze Rocks festival leaves no room for subtlety: JUNE JUNE headlining are top-level rock bands, from the Foo Fighters – who will open the festival – to Guns N’ Roses, from Iron Maiden to Ozzy Osbourne, Avenged Sevenfold and Judas Priest, who will perform in a unique closing concert. Like last year, the event will be hosted at the Visarno Arena, a racecourse surrounded by the greenery of the Parco delle Cascine, a perfect summer theatre for large-scale concerts.
Firenze Rocks Start of headliners concerts: 9pm. Visarno Arena, Parco delle Cascine www.firenzerocks.it 14 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I J U N E 2018
Foo Fighters
PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK
SPORT
JUNE FASHION
EXHIBITION
MAY 2018
MARCH 2019
▼ The years spent by Salvatore Ferragamo in California at the dawn of the movie industry, in the 1920s, are the source of inspiration for the exhibition project of the Museum devoted to him: from his collaboration with the most famous directors of the time to the opening of the Hollywood Boot Shop (reconstructed here), frequented by stars such as Mary Pickford, Pola Negri, Charlie Chaplin, Joan Crawford, Lillian Gish and Rudolph Valentino. Starting from here, there is an investigation of the migratory phenomenon and the influence exerted on the world of art, craftsmanship and entertainment by the Hollywood myth and by Italian culture in California. Curiosity: you will find forty of the three hundred iconic, famous portraits on ceramic plates that Piero Fornasetti made of the actress Lina Cavalieri on display in the exhibition.
Italy in Hollywood Museo Salvatore Ferragamo. Palazzo Spini Feroni. Piazza Santa Trinita, 5/r Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.ferragamo.com/museo
PHOTO © JONATHAN DANIEL PRYCE
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WHEN HOLLYWOOD WAS A LITTLE VILLAGE
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MALE ELEGANCE CAN BE FOUND AT THE FORTEZZA ONCE AGAIN
▲ An unmissable event in the world of men’s fashion, twice a year Pitti Uomo presents men’s clothing and accessories collections by the most famous and upcoming international brands. The location is of course unique: the event – which takes its name from its first venue, the White Room in Palazzo Pitti – takes place in the Fortezza da Basso, a masterpiece of Renaissance architecture just a stone’s throw from Santa Maria Novella, in the historic centre of the city. 80,000 square metres that see next year’s men’s fashion trends parading for four days in June. There are three info items in this edition: the set designs of the structures inside the Fortezza da Basso will be P.O.P. Pitti Optical Power, a kaleidoscope of brightly coloured patterns created by lifestyler Sergio Colantuoni; Special Guest will be Roberto Cavalli, who is debuting with the first men’s collection designed by Paul Surridge; Guest Designer will be Craig Green from England, who will present his S/S 2019 collection with an exclusive parade. Although the fair is reserved for operators, on the four days when it takes place collateral events, parades and installations are also organized that are free to visit and involve the whole city.
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JUNE
Pitti Uomo 94 Fortezza da Basso. Viale Filippo Strozzi, 1. Open daily 9am-6pm; last day 9am-4pm. www.pittimmagine.com
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WHERE NOW | FOCUS
Her Highness Florentia To best enjoy its regal beauty and the nobility of its history, Florence must be seen from high up. Here is a map of the terraces and unmissable panoramic views. BY ELENA BINDA
PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK
Elena Binda Lifestyle Editor Where ® Italia
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n Piazza del Duomo, particularly in summer and on fine days, it is not uncommon to notice long queues: in fact there are hundreds of people every day who wish to climb up into Brunelleschi’s Dome, boldly ascending its 463 steps, or to reach the top of Giotto’s bell tower, around 84 metres high. The same applies to the Tower of Palazzo Vecchio, with its walkway called Camminamento di Ronda attributed to Arnolfo di Cambio. If what attracts you is the historical and artistic dimension, then such locations are obviously unrivalled. But if also and above all you intend to have special views of the city of Florence, then you should know that there are many other possibilities: Florence abounds in more or less well known panoramic points, gardens with views and splendid premises with terraces. Not to mention the bridges, which are perfect for enjoying sunset over the Arno. So here is a map with the addresses not to be missed. THE BALCONY SCENE There are many ways to fall in love with Florence. One, of course, is to capture it in just one gaze from above, allowing yourself to be intoxicated by its admirable architecture developing harmoniously around the Arno, enveloped by the hills behind. The most famous place to enjoy this view is piazzale Michelangelo, an open space created at the end of the 19th century as part of the so-called “improvement”, the redevelopment of the left bank of the Arno that occurred while Florence was capital of Italy. It is an obligatory stopping place, perhaps when you are on your way to the Abbey of San Miniato al Monte, a medieval religious building that merits a visit in itself (see Sightseeing > Monuments & Attractions), but also for the views it offers of Florence. The most spectacular access is via the monumental steps. Less universally known, but much loved by the Florentines, are the gardens placed in the same quadrant of the city, which offer a perspective similar to Piazzale Michelangelo, but which also possess the romantic setting of an ancient garden: that is the case of the Giardino dell’Iris, in Viale Michelangiolo, the Giardino delle Rose, going towards San Miniato, and, a little further on, also the Giardino Bardini (see below). A little outside the centre, but within reach if you have been prompted to visit that rather particular place that is the Stibbert Museum (see Sightseeing > Museums), are the Orti del Parnaso, another charming park where you can admire Florence from high up. On the opposite part of the river, on the other hand, are the immense Boboli Gardens, with their various levels, offering different panoramic points: one of the best loved is Prato dell’Uccellare, whereas a more institutional one is the Forte Belvedere (where there is also a place for aperitifs). Finally, don’t forget that one of the most charming places from which to view the city is the river itself: in this case it is not the aerial views that are exciting, but the breathtaking sights of the city, especially at sunset. But avoid Ponte Vecchio, where it is truly impossible to find a place in the front row, and focus on Ponte alla Carraia or Santa Trinita: outstanding.
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Prato dell’Uccellare, Giardino di Boboli
CULTURAL PANORAMA If your approach is more cultural than landscape-oriented, bear in mind that you can find a nice panoramic stop while visiting museums. As the whole world knows, the Uffizi Gallery (www.uffizi.org) holds the largest existing collection of artworks by Raphael and Botticelli, in addition to key works by Giotto, Titian, Veronese, Tintoretto, Pontormo, Bronzino, Caravaggio, Dürer, Rubens and many others. But, after enjoying all the beauty on display inside, why not treat yourself to a moment of contemplation of what lies around you? The bar with restaurant service at the end of the second floor, in fact, has a fantastic terrace overlooking the Loggia dei Lanzi. The view of the city and Palazzo Vecchio is incomparable. Another unexpected panoramic view will present itself to you if you decide to visit the unusual architectural complex of Orsanmichele, halfway between piazza del Duomo and Palazzo Vecchio. It is an evocative place, a church and relative museum obtained from a 15th-century granary, and its windows offer fine views. The Innocenti Museum (www.istitutodeglinnocenti.it), in Piazza della Santissima Annunziata, is a piece of national history: created in the Renaissance, it is the oldest public institution in Italy. It was used to house and educate orphaned or abandoned children: the building, by Brunelleschi, hosts works by Botticelli and Ghirlandaio. To this day it has not betrayed its original vocation: it is a Unicef research centre and offers help to mothers in difficulty. But there is also another reason to visit it, and that is the restored 18 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I J U N E 2018
PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK
WHERE NOW | FOCUS
terrace, once used by nannies to walk with young children and today transformed into a marvellous cafeteria with views, the Caffè del Verone (only until 7pm). To enjoy the sunset from Oltrarno, on the other hand, the ancient Torre di San Niccolò is visitable (but not always, so inquire with your concierge). Finally, Villa Bardini, formerly Villa Manadora, also offers a considerable panoramic view among its numerous attractions: an exhibition centre with a predilection for contemporary art, it also includes the scenographic Giardino Bardini (today visitable separately with the same ticket used for the Boboli Gardens) and the splendid Terrazza Bardini, which is also a restaurant (www.moba.fi.it). AN APERITIF ON THE TERRACE The hours heading towards evening are perhaps the best for contemplating the exciting panorama of this city. For that reason, treating yourself to an aperitif in one of the splendid premises with terrace is a very good choice, enabling you to relax, enjoy some Tuscan delicacies and capture the open-air museum in which you have immersed yourself during the day in a single gaze. Se.Sto on Arno, the restaurant and bar of The Westin Excelsior in piazza Ognissanti, is open for aperitifs every evening from 7 to 9pm: its two large terraces allow 360-degree views. And for those who want to continue, dinner by the stained-glass windows offers the best of Mediterranean cuisine. www.westinflorence.com. The Divina Terrazza of the Grand Hotel Cavour, which can only be reached via a
Se. Sto on Arno, The Westin Excelsior
staircase on the sixth floor of the hotel, is literally immersed in the beauties of Florence: a stone’s throw from the cathedral, it has a roof bar where you seem to be able to touch history with your hand. www.albergocavour.it. In the zone of Santa Maria Novella, the Grand Hotel Baglioni has a panoramic restaurant, Terrazza Brunelleschi, and two American bars with views of the Dome. www.hotelbaglioni.it. From May to September, the Grand Hotel Minerva (again in Santa Maria Novella) reveals the ace up its sleeve that is its Bar Three-Sixty to make its panoramic terrace with swimming pool even more attractive. www.grandhotelminerva.com. Sipping a drink in the swimming pool while you admire the Cathedral is an experience that is also guaranteed at the Empireo, another terrace that has entered the Olympus of the panoramic places of Florence since it opened in 2014: it is situated on the roof of the Hotel Plaza Lucchesi, between the Lungarno and Santa Croce. It is open to visitors from 7.30pm, if you book in advance. www.hotelplazalucchesi.it. A heated swimming pool (12 x 3 metres) for the Sky Breeze Roof and Pool, which dominates the city from the sixth floor of the Glance Hotel (near the Market of San Lorenzo) and offers drink and dishes. It is open (also to visitors) from May to October from 10am to 8pm. www. glancehotelflorence.com. The Rooftop Bar of the Hotel Continental, just a few steps from Ponte Vecchio, is simply called La Terrazza. The bar is open at the top of the medieval Torre dei Consorti, in a contemporary environment surrounded by magnificence. Then, it must
Divina Terrazza, Grand Hotel Cavour
Caffè del Verone, Istituto degli Innocenti also not be forgotten that some of the most luxurious hotels in Florence allow their guests the possibility of treating themselves to breakfast, a cocktail or dinner on terraces with amazing views, in some cases private ones: this is the case of the Lungarno Collection (www. lungarnocollection.com), Hotel Brunelleschi (www.hotelbrunelleschi.it) Antica Torre Tornabuoni (www.tornabuoni1.com) and some others. The Four Seasons, for example, with its Terrazza Giusti, offers one of the most sought-after locations for banquets and conferences in the open air. Special mention, finally, for the relaxing terrace of the Hotel Orto de’ Medici: in this case the key element is not the panorama, but the history of the location. It is here, in fact, that Michelangelo met Lorenzo
the Magnificent. www.ortodeimedici.it. Final hint: if you’re looking for a different kind of venue, youthful and more informal, maybe to stop for lunch, a good idea is the Caffetteria delle Oblate, often frequented by university students. It is not a terrace, but an indoor venue (central) with an almost incredible view. www.caffetteriadelleoblate.it. BEAUTY HAS NO PRICE Finally, remember that while you are shopping you are also in Florence, not in any old city. A stop to breathe in the beauty, the cultural opulence, the artistic heritage of this capital of the Renaissance must undoubtedly be made. Rinascente, the most historic department store in Italy, is also present in Florence, in piazza
Galleria degli Uffizi Terrace The terrace was only developed as an architectural element in Italy in the Renaissance. In the Classical Age, in fact, noble dwellings had just one storey, and in the Middle Ages they were little more than balconies, first made of wood, then stone. But it was in the Renaissance that spatial and perspective concepts changed and terraces began to spread, from the “urban” terraces such as Piazzale Michelangelo to those in the gardens of palaces such as the Boboli Gardens. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 19
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Mario Berta Battiloro
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Repubblica (www.rinascente.it): in addition to the usual top-level commercial offer (also with Tax Refund service), it has a very pleasant terrace with cafeteria. Then it is impossible not to mention Luisa Via Roma; created in the 1930s as a pioneering concept store, it boomed in the 1980s, launching in Italy stylists of the calibre of Kenzo, and today it is a world power in e-commerce (www.luisaviaroma.com). But what online purchasing cannot offer is the magic of a shopping experience with Florence around you, maybe allowing yourself a relaxing break on the terrace of the boutique, designed by Patricia Urquiola.
Hotel Orto de’ Medici Terrace Aperitifs “on the top floors” of luxury hotels meet with great success with both Florentines and tourists. Some play the card of the poolside drink, while others focus on live music and celebrity cocktails to offer even more unforgettable moments to their lucky customers. But when they talk of happy hour you can forget the large buffets, because the aperitif is elegant on the rooftops of Florence and you will be served a few snacks at most along with your drink. Also, particularly if you go at the weekend, remember to book at least a few days beforehand.
Luisa Via Roma Terrace
PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK
Florence seen from the hills: welcome to Fiesole
Villa San Michele Thanks to its position, standing on a double hill overlooking the Arno Valley, the whole town of Fiesole is a kind of “terrace looking over Florence”. Around six kilometres away, the town has in fact always been considered a privileged and exclusive residential location, the site of marvellous villas, each competing for architectural plaudits. Villa San Michele, today a luxury hotel (www.belmond.com),
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is a former monastery with a magnificent view. There is the possibility of lunch and a poolside aperitif there. Magnificent views are also available from Villa Fiesole (www.fhhotelgroup.it), the ancient residence and poetic lemon grove where today it is possible to enjoy cycle tours or cooking classes with well-known chefs.
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Discovering Ponte Vecchio It is one of the undisputed symbols of Florence and, as such, is one of the most photographed sites in the world. Here are some details so you can get to know it better. B Y A M A L A N G E L O T T I
ORIGINAL ARCHITECTURE The bridge is characterised by a solution with lowered arches, never previously seen, which makes it particularly stable and its profile unmistakable. From the very beginning, it was understood to be a natural continuation of the road, and so it has shops and porticos along both sides facing towards the centre, each with a single shop window closed by strong wooden doors, and often with a picturesque backroom protruding over the river. Then, grafted onto the high part of the bridge is the Vasari Corridor, the strategic passageway that was built at the wishes of Cosimo de’ Medici
PHOTOS © SHUTTERSTOCK
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irst of all, it must be said that Ponte Vecchio (literally “Old Bridge”) is indeed “old”. The first to identify a ford in the Arno were the Etruscans. The Roman founders of the village of “Florentia” built a wood and stone bridge there, the forerunner of the current one, which dates back to around 1345. Since then, with all the various restorations and modifications, this passage across the Arno has remained in its place, actively participating in the history of the city.
in 1565 to connect the administrative buildings to his private residence, without exposing the sovereign to any danger. A UNIQUE HISTORY The change of identity of the zone during the Renaissance is due precisely to the Vasari Corridor. The traditional shops of greengrocers, butchers and fishmongers, who had a preference for the bridge on account of the ease with which they could throw their waste into the river, were evicted en bloc: it was preferred to offer the sovereign goldsmiths’ and jewellers’ shops, which were more appropriate for his gaze (and his nose), and they have continued their presence there ever since for the pleasure of tourists. Since then, Ponte Vecchio has been an assiduous witness – and sometimes a protagonist – of the history of
the city: considering it a source of great pride, Mussolini invited Hitler there in 1938, opening up new larger, more panoramic windows for his benefit. One rather romanticised version claims that Hitler himself, cherishing the memory of such beauty, would decide to save the bridge from the terrible bombing campaigns of 1944. Unfortunately, the historical reconstruction seems to prove that this merit cannot be ascribed to the German dictator. LUXURY SHOPPING For more than four hundred years, Ponte Vecchio has therefore been inhabited by artisans creating admirable gold and silver objects. Still today, this remains the commercial vocation of the neighbourhood, which is nevertheless not lacking in other luxury trades, starting with artisan leather goods. Obviously, the accesses and areas surrounding the Bridge, between via Por Santa Maria and Lungarno degli Archibusieri on one side, and between Borgo San Jacopo and via de’ Guicciardini on the other, are also swarming with points of interest and high-quality shops. Bear in mind, however, that sometimes you need only turn into an unknown alley to get away from the bustling crowds and enjoy a carefree stroll. UNDER THE BRIDGE Finally, you should know that there is also life under the bridge: the historic Società Canottieri Firenze, as well as bringing together sporting rowers, is a point of reference for the activities that take place on the banks of the river. Today, the Circle also offers a stupendous location for aperitifs, lunches and dinners.
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V E N E Z I A V E R O N A M I L A N O F I R E N Z E
SHOP.THEMERCHANTOFVENICE.COM THEMERCHANTOFVENICE.COM
WHERE NOW | SHOPPING
GIFT
GUIDE Take advantage of a stroll through Florence to treat yourself to an accessory, a fragrance, a jewel or some other alluring detail of style. Where ® brings you a pick of the best seasonal trends and guarantees that you won’t leave empty-handed!
► IL BISONTE This travel bag made of polycotton technical fabric with leather details and detachable shoulder belt belongs to the ’Capraia’ line. It is one of the accessories symbolizing the brand that came about in the heart of Florence almost 60 years ago from the passion and creativity of its founder Wanny Di Filippo. www.ilbisonte.com
◄ DAMIANI The epitome of femininity, the new ’Spicchi di Luna’ collection is highlighted by a sequence of slightly curved gold bands evoking the different phases of the moon. The ultimate symbol of timeless elegance and sophistication. www.damiani.com
Giulia Minero Lifestyle & News Editor Where ® Italia
◄ ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ Stylist Angela Caputi proposes the elegant “Flamenco” line for this summer, with a clear reference to the frills of the skirts of Flamenco dancers. This choker is made of synthetic resin and is available in the colours red, white and lime. www.angelacaputi.com
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▼ SALVATORE FERRAGAMO This closed shoe in magnolia suede, with toe cap and double straps across instep in black brushed calfskin, is part of ’Ferragamo’s Creations’, the exclusive footwear line that revisits historic models. This style was worn by actress Mary Pickford, one of silent cinema’s pre-eminent actresses and producers. Salvatore Ferragamo made this model in a number of different versions during his Hollywood period. www.ferragamo.com
►TIFFANY & CO. ’Tiffany City HardWear’ link bracelet is elegantly subversive: it embodies the power and edge of New York City and the energy of its streets. Linear and minimal, it is made of rose gold and embellished by a detail that is a pavé of dazzling diamonds. www.tiffany.it
▲ OFFICINE PANERAI This underwater professional watch guarantees a sporting look with a strong character: ’Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic’ is the first Panerai Submersible with a steel box with a 42mm diameter, impermeable to a depth of 30 bar. All the elements on the quadrant are perfectly legible against the black background, while the second hand is Panerai blue. www.panerai.com
►OFFICINA PROFUMOFARMACEUTICA DI SANTA MARIA NOVELLA
’Acqua di S.M.Novella’ is the brand’s oldest fragrance. It is the perfume that Caterina de’ Medici commissioned from the Dominican monks in 1533, and she took it with her to France when she married Henri de Valois. It is a bouquet of fresh citrus notes with a base of Calabrian bergamot. The mould for the bottle is reminiscent of the glass bottles Officina has used over the last two centuries. www.smnovella.com
◄ MARZI FIRENZE Since the early 20th century Marzi has created elegant women’s hats made of Florentine straw, such as this large sisal hat in the three colours fuchsia, red and orange. A touch of unmistakable style and the best hand crafting quality entrusted to highly qualified workmen make these accessories a must, particularly for this season. Present in the world’s most beautiful shop windows and available online. www.marzi.com
▲ PHILOSOPHY DI LORENZO SERAFINI
For the summer season this Italian brand – founded by Alberta Ferretti in 1984 and today the group’s greatest source of pride – proposes a mini rigid red bag, embellished by black buckles on the sides ending with refined tassels. A creativity that is wholly Italian expressed through elegant forms that know how to interpret a femininity that is romantic and modern at the same time. www.albertaferretti.com
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PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK
WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN
Not just Florence If Florence offers tourists an unrivalled cultural and historical heritage, its surrounding area no less so. Here are some suggestions for trips outside the city that are able to satisfy any need. For more details ask your concierge. By Chiara Zaccarelli
Chiara Zaccarelli Travel Editor Where ® Italia
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f you choose Florence as your base, the good news is that around an hour away by train, bus or car you will find UNESCO heritage cities of art, dreamy countryside, natural thermal springs, medieval towns and abbeys and kilometres of coastline for bathers. The only problem is in having to make a choice, particularly if you have just a few days available. CITIES OF ART If you love cities of art then you’ve chosen the right region. Indeed, within an hour’s range from the Tuscan regional capital there are architectural wonders that will catapult you into medieval and Renaissance Tuscany. About an hour by train from Florence is Lucca, one of Tuscany’s most fascinating historic centres, surrounded by ancient
Tuscany’s soft rolling hills
16th-century walls, today still practically fully intact and walkable in their entirely. You can cycle along the tree-lined walls, stop for a tasty ice cream or simply cool down on the benches. The picturesque historic centre has remained almost intact, including countless medieval churches, which have earned Lucca the nickname of “city of the 100 churches”, Renaissance squares and buildings and Roman amphitheatres. The famous Leaning Tower of Pisa can also be easily reached from Florence in about an hour by train. Loved by tourists from all over the world for its peculiar tilt, the Tower of Pisa is in reality the bell tower of the Cathedral, which stands in a unique monumental context, declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site: Piazza dei Miracoli. Here, after the unmissable ascent of the Tower, you can visit the Cathedral itself, the Baptistery,
the Cemetery, the Palazzo dell’Opera of the Cathedral and the Sinopie Museum. Once you’ve completed your visit to this unbelievable square, if you have a little time left, you can relax with a walk along the Arno to the historic centre and Piazza dei Cavalieri, the political fulcrum of medieval Pisa. Facing onto the square is Palazzo della Carovana, with graffiti by Giorgio Vasari, which today houses the Scuola Normale Superiore, one of the most prestigious universities in the world. With a brief trip by coach from Florence (looking at the idyllic landscape of the Tuscan countryside through the window) you reach Siena, one of the most loved medieval centres in Italy, which is also included on the UNESCO World Heritage List. The city’s nerve centre is Piazza del Campo, which is renowned for its unique shell shape, for its architectural integrity, and because twice a year (2 July and 16 August) it holds the Palio di Siena, a horse race that is of fundamental importance for the Sienese, which sees the seventeen historic districts that comprise the city compete against each other. The square is dominated by a series of buildings of inestimable historical and architectural value, including the 14th-century Palazzo Pubblico and the attached Torre del Mangia, with its characteristic red colour, the Cappella di Piazza, a marble tabernacle with splendid sculptures, the Loggia della Mercanzia and Palazzo Sansedoni. But Siena
PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK
Siena
San Gimignano Nature at its wildest in the area of the Crete Senesi, the medieval towns with their towers standing out among the green hills and the crowds in Piazza del Campo on the occasion of the traditional Palio di Siena (2 July and 16 August). This is Tuscany too.
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is not just Piazza del Campo: lose yourself along the picturesque medieval alleys, with their succession of churches, palaces and shops where you can purchase the local hand-crafted goods or taste the traditional panforte, the typical Sienese spiced bread with almonds, candied fruit and pepper. And a few kilometres from Siena, another town declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO awaits you with its towers and its characteristic medieval architecture. It is the unmissable San Gimignano, reachable by coach from Siena and Florence and situated in the heart of the Tuscan countryside. Walking round this small town, the 13th / 14th-century appearance of which is still practically unchanged, is almost like going back in time. San Gimignano is famous above all for its medieval towers, which were as many as 72 at one time and today are just fifteen, including some in ruins and without their tops but still visible as part of the urban fabric. Nevertheless, the effect of arriving from the countryside and seeing the outline of the town emerge still leaves you breathless.
LUGANO MENDRISIO
PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK
WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN
Greve in Chianti
summer day, sipping new wine and tasting the speciality of the location, surrounded by olive groves and cypress trees in the surreal peacefulness of the Chianti hills? Let’s now leave this idyllic setting and move towards a wilder, more barren territory, that of the Crete Senesi. Located in the area south-east of Siena, the crete are clay hills, the result of the continuous erosion of the sea sediments that covered the zone millions of years ago. These bare, softly undulating hills, with their characteristic grey-blue colour and almost lunar appearance, are dotted with cypresses and farmhouses and still encapsulate the essence of the most authentic Tuscany; they are far removed from the tourist routes, rich in traces and remains of ancient civilisations, picturesque
BERGAMO BRESCIA
NATURALISTIC ITINERARIES Florence is surrounded by hills, gentle valleys and luxuriant vineyards. Climbing them is easy, both on foot (if you are keen on trekking then it will just be a stroll for you) and on the numerous buses departing from the city centre. Over the years the hill of Fiesole has been the source of inspiration for artists, spiritual figures, noble families, writers and entrepreneurs. From this privileged observatory, dotted with villas, museums, archaeological excavations, churches and convents, you can enjoy beautiful views of Florence and the Florentine countryside. If you love panoramas, another unmissable spot is the small town of Settignano, this too easy to reach from the city centre; in the past it has been chosen as a residence by painter Telemaco Signorini, poet Gabriele d’Annunzio and writer Mark Twain, all fascinated by its gentle hills and calm atmosphere. The very famous Chianti zone, renowned for its vineyards, verdant valleys, rows of cypresses, olive groves, towns and abbeys built on hilltops, is around half an hour by car from the centre of Florence. If you are lucky enough to be there between September and November you can witness two key events for the economy and culture of the territory: the harvesting of grapes and olives. Can you think of anything more romantic than enjoying a picnic on a warm late
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THERMAL SPRINGS Tuscany is the region that boasts the largest number of spa structures in Italy, thanks to the presence of numerous water deposits famous since antiquity for the treatment of numerous pathologies. From Florence you can easily reach numerous natural springs and although many have now become part of spa establishments, others are still free, so you can dip in their warm waters and benefit from their therapeutic properties at zero cost, or at very affordable prices. Whether you just want to relax or treat yourself to a beauty treatment, or you have some ailment
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medieval towns and culinary festivals (of which that of the white truffle, typical of the zone, stands out in particular).
FORTE DEI MARMI
BOLOGNA LUCCA
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THE APPENNINI MOUNTAIN RIDGE
MAR ADRIATICO RIMINI
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Saturnia
to be treated, you are spoiled for choice. In the heart of Maremma, in the Province of Grosseto, is the park of the Saturnia Thermal Baths, a fully fledged resort with openair thermal pools, hydromassage, vascular circuits, hotels and restaurants, one of the largest oases of relaxation in the whole of Tuscany. Or maybe you prefer a wilder, less expensive alternative? The nearby Cascate del Gorello form a waterfall that flows around an ancient mill giving rise to a series of natural pools dug into the rock. The water has a temperature of 37.5°C and thanks to the presence of thermal plankton has beneficial effects on the skin and the digestive, circulatory and motor systems. Entry to the falls is free of charge, and although they have no facilities they are open 24 hours a day, every day, even in winter. Let’s move to the province of Siena now, to immerse ourselves in the sulphur waters of the Thermal Baths of Petriolo. Already known in the Roman era, these waters gush out at a temperature
Pier footpath promenade, beach and Apuane mountains in Forte dei Marmi Versilia
of 43°C, are rich in salts and are traditionally used to cure the various pathologies of the respiratory tracts. These springs too can be enjoyed both free of charge and at the establishments with their attached hotel structures. On the outskirts of Montecatini Terme, on the other hand, is the spectacular Grotta Giusti, a thousand-year-old natural cave that winds its way amid stalactites and stalagmites to reach a stretch of crystalclear water. Its waters have a temperature of between 27°C and 34°C and mud therapy and balneotherapy are practised there in baths enriched with ozone to stimulate the metabolism of the blood vessels. THE BEACHES Your bathing costume and beach towel are probably not the first things you think of putting in your suitcase if you are about to set off for Florence, but if you visit in the summer you might feel the desire to seek a little refreshment at one of the many beaches
Pedalling through Tuscany Would you like to discover the area around Florence from a different perspective, more on a human scale and in contact with nature? Then you can opt for a bicycle tour. Pedalling along the romantic olive groves, vineyards, medieval town and Medici villas, taking in the perfumes and colours of the Tuscan countryside in ways that would otherwise be impossible. After the effort of pedalling, almost all the tours envisage rest and refreshment with visits to wine cellars and the tasting of wines, olive oils and local specialities. If you are not particularly sporty but would still like to visit the outskirts of Florence from this unique perspective, then you can choose a tour by Vespa, with that irresistible vintage touch that is undoubtedly less tiring. Ask your concierge.
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dotted along the Tuscan coastline. Although the Medici city is deep inland, there are in fact various beaches that can be easily reached both by car and by train. The closest, the preferred destination of chic Florentines, is Forte dei Marmi, located in north-western Tuscany, with its long well-equipped beaches, dotted with venues frequented by VIPs, fashion boutiques and exclusive nightspots. Further south, in the province of Livorno, you breathe an entirely different atmosphere. Vada is perfect for nature lovers with its free beaches; here the water is shallow and transparent and the sand pale and fine. Castiglioncello, on the other hand, is known as “the pearl of the Tyrrhenian” on account of its breathtaking landscapes, characterised by sheer cliffs, coves and pinewoods. Very easy to reach by train directly from Florence, the beach at Quercianella, again in the province of Livorno, is excellent for lovers of the Mediterranean maquis and perfect for diving and snorkelling enthusiasts.
PHOTOS © SHUTTERSTOCK
WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN
SWIM & WEAR VIA IDONE 3/C - 55042 FORTE DEI MARMI (LU) ITALY www.fedeliscashmere.com
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The entire Ferragamo universe Situated in via de’ Tornabuoni, in Florence’s main street for shopping, inside Palazzo Spini Feroni, the Ferragamo boutique hosts all the fashion house’s collections. By Chiara Zaccarelli
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Florentine brand that has known how to combine age-old hand crafting skills with the creativity typical of products made in Italy, today Salvatore Ferragamo represents quality, contemporary elegance, innovation and tradition. These are the distinctive features of every Salvatore Ferragamo product, which give the value and authenticity that this brand is universally recognized as possessing. The Florentine boutique, which contains all the fashion house’s men’s, women’s, accessories and perfume collections, is located inside the medieval Palazzo Spini Feroni, the company’s historic workshop since 1938, today its headquarters and the site of the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum. The boutique occupies the entire 32 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I J U N E 2018
ground floor of the building, inside large spaces decorated with 18th-century frescoes, stretching from Piazza Santa Trinita to the banks of the River Arno. And it is precisely the wing of the store that faces onto Piazza Santa Trinita that hosts the Ferragamo’s Creations corner, with the exclusive footwear line that revisits some of the brand’s iconic models and also includes a collection of bags and accessories with the most representative prints and decorations. This is a space whose layout recalls the studio where Salvatore Ferragamo received his customers and all its creative inspiration. A unique opportunity to fully immerse yourself in the universe of this gifted innovator who has revolutionised the world of women’s footwear through new models, volumes and materials.
>> Via de’ Tornabuoni, 4/r T: 055 292123. www.ferragamo.com
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT FLORENCE.WHEREITALIA.COM
Guidelines CLOTHING &
The
This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. MAP LOCATIONS-Note that references in bold
at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc.) refer to the coordinates on the street map (pages 78-79). SHOPPING -Shopping hours are generally from 10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Florence) and on Monday mornings. Ask your concierge. Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.
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TAX-FREE SHOPPING
By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund. UnionPay Service Hotline: 00 800 800 95516 e-mail: europe@unionpayintl.com
ACCESSORIES Angela Caputi Giuggiù The boutique offers an extraordinary selection of clothing items for every type of woman. In addition, hats, bags and other accessories from all over the world enrich these collections. Stylist and designer Angela Caputi chooses these articles personally to combine with and complete her exclusive resin jewellery with its unique, elegant design. www.angelacaputi.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Borgo SS. Apostoli, 44-46/r. T: 055 292993. Map E4
Anichini
CHILDREN A traditional tailor’s shop for children where skilled artisan hands create elegant items for newborns, children and youngsters using the best Italian fabrics. For each model it is possible to vary the choice of fabrics, colours and details. A century-old workshop of hand-crafting culture, located in 15th-century Palazzo Ricasoli. www. anichini.net. Open Mon 3.30pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via del Parione, 59/r. T: 055 284977. Map D3
Aspesi The cult brand, created in 1969 by fashion veteran Alberto Aspesi, features quirky, tailored lines, elegant details and natural materials. His current collections are still based on the original “no frills” philosophy and will appeal to all those who like their outerwear without flashy labels. www.aspesi.com. Women. Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via di Porta Rossa, 85/r. T: 055 287987. Men. Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm7pm; Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via Porta Rossa, 51/r. T: 055 287931. Map E4
Brunello Cucinelli The world of Brunello Cucinelli can be summed up as a compendium of art, traditions and Italian craftsmanship. The brand, which came about in Umbria forty years ago from an idea by founder Brunello Cucinelli, represents excellence in the production of high-quality cashmere knitwear and today boasts top-level production with total look men’s and women’s collections. Today it is seen as a model enterprise all over the world for its support for the dignity of work and craftsmanship, defining itself as “a humanistic company”. www. brunellocucinelli.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via dei Pecori, 16/r. T: 055 285832. Map F3
UnionPay is an international bankcard association based in China and serves the world’s largest cardholder base. With more than 7 billion cards issued worldwide, UnionPay has become the mayor payment method of the outbound Chinese. By March 2018, almost 600,000 merchants in Italy accept UnionPay card for payment, among which 9,000 merchants are located in Florence. This allows hundred of thousands of affluent Chinese customers to shop with their favourite cards. UnionPay also actively work with famous retail groups, such as the Rinascente department stores, The Mall, SINA hotels, Aspesi fashion boutiques, to provide special discount or services for UnionPay cardholders.
NEW OPENING
DINING
Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30 € or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. SIGHTSEEING
The information provided on museums and monuments is verified as meticulously as possible. However, data such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices and the accessibility of sites are all subject to change, on a seasonal basis and also due to restoration work, museum loans or changes of management. Ask your concierge.
Tribute to the perfumier’s art Like Venice, Florence was a key city for the history of perfume in Italy. When Caterina de’ Medici, who was passionate about perfumes, married the future king of France Henry II, with her to the court she took the trusted Florentine perfumier Renato Bianco, who contributed to the diffusion of perfume in all the European courts. Venice and Florence, furthermore, are united by another female figure: Bianca Cappello, the Venetian noblewoman who married Grand Duke of Florence Francesco I de’ Medici and to whom the Florentine boutique is dedicated. The Merchant of Venice store is structured into a vast range of Eaux de Parfum and Eaux de Toilette, completed by products for personal care, for the environment and accessories. These essences are contained in packaging with designs inspired by the glassmaking tradition of Murano. Furthermore, the single-brand store provides a personalized layering service: in this way customers can experience the thrill of creating a tailor-made perfume according to their own tastes and desires and discover the ancient secrets of the perfumier’s tradition. Via degli Strozzi, 28/r. www.themerchantofvenice.com
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[ FA SHION DESIGNERS]
Luxury Top Brands ALBERTA FERRETTI PHILOSOPHY— www.albertaferretti.com. Open daily 10am7pm. Via Porta Rossa, 107. T: 055 212995. Map E4 ASPESI—www.aspesi.com. Women. Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat 10am7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via di Porta Rossa, 85. T: 055 287987. Men Open Mon-Fri 10am2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm7pm. Via di Porta Rossa, 51/r. T: 055 287931. Map E4 BALENCIAGA—www.balenciaga.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Piazza Santa Trinita, 1/r. T: 055 287931. Map E4 BOGGI MILANO—www.boggi.com. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-1.30pm/3pm-7.30pm. Via della Vigna Nuova, 27. T: 055 219179. Map E3 BORSALINO—www.borsalino.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via Porta Rossa, 40/r. T: 055 218275. Map F4 BOTTEGA VENETA—www.bottegaveneta.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Via degli Strozzi, 6n. T: 055 284735. Map E3 BRUNELLO CUCINELLI— www.brunellocucinelli.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via dei Pecori, 16. T: 055 285832. Map F3 BULGARI—www.bulgari.com. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Via de’Tornabuoni, 56/r. T: 055 2396786. Map E4 BURBERRY—it.burberry.com. Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via de’Tornabuoni, 29/r. T: 055 293811. Map E4 CARTIER— www.cartier.it. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via degli Strozzi, 36/r. T: 055 292347. Map E4
DIOR— www.dior.com. Women. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 15/r. T: 055 2669101. Map E3 DOLCE&GABBANA—www.dolcegabbana.it Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via degli Strozzi, 12-18/r. T: 055 281003. Map E4. Baby. Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 18/r. T: 055 2399909. Map E4 EMILIO PUCCI—www.emiliopucci.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 20-22/r. T: 055 2658082. Map E4
GUCCI—www.gucci.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 73-81/r. T: 055 264011. Map E3 • Duomo. Open daily 10-19. Via Roma, 32/r. T: 055 75923803. Map F3 • Garden. Open daily 10-19.30. Piazza della Signoria, 10. T: 055 75927010. Map F4 HERMÈS—www.hermes.com. Open Mon-Sat 10.15am-7pm. Piazza degli Antinori, 6/r. T: 055 2381004. Map E3 HOGAN—www.hogan.com. Open MonSat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 97/r. T: 055 2741013. Map E3
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA—www.zegna.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 3/r. T: 055 264254. Map E3
HUGO BOSS—www.hugoboss.com. Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Por Santa Maria, 70. T: 055 294909. Map F4
ETRO—www.etro.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Palazzo Rucellai-via della Vigna Nuova, 50/r. T: 055 2670086. Map D3
LORO PIANA—www.loropiana.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 34-36/r. T: 055 2398688. Map E4
FENDI—www.fendi.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 40/r. T: 055 212305. Map E3
LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30; Sun 11am-7.30pm. Piazza degli Strozzi, 10/r. T: 055 266981. Map E3
FURLA—www.furla.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30. Via de’ Calzaiuoli, 10/r (corner of piazza della Signoria). T: 055 2382883. Map F4 GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10am2pm/3pm-7pm. NEW OPENING Via de’ Tornabuoni, 83/r. T: 055 219041. Map E3
MAX MARA—it.maxmara.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 66-68-70/r. T: 055 214133. Map E3 • Open Mon-Sat 10am7.30; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Pecori, 23/r. T: 055 287761. Map F3 MICHAEL KORS— www.michaelkors.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30; Sun 10.30am7.30pm. Piazza della Repubblica, 43. T: 055 290284. Map F3 MISSONI—www.missoni.it. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via Porta Rossa, 77-79/r. T: 055 215774. Map F4
CHANEL—www.chanel.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Piazza della Signoria, 10. T: 055 2989699. Map F4. Fragrance & Beauty Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via dei Calzaiuoli, 49. T: 055 298181. Map F3 CHOPARD— www.chopard.com. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7pm; Sun 11.30am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 30-32/r. T: 055 2670157. Map E4 DAMIANI— www.damiani.com. Open MonSat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 7/r. T: 055 290208. Map E3
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Fresh and feminine, the ASPESI silk blouse plays with colour contrasts and lively tones to create a style that is elegant and youthful at the same time.
MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30; Sun 10am-7pm. Via Roma, 8/r. T: 055 2608931. Map F3 MONCLER—www.moncler.com. Open MonSat 10am-7; Sun 11am-7pm. Via degli Strozzi, 3/r. T: 055 2657583. Map E3 MONTBLANC—www.montblanc.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 63/r. T: 055 292050. Map E3
The intrecciato squares of ’Palio Dahlia Chamomile’ by BOTTEGA VENETA harken back to the medieval flags of the Palio in Siena.
PRADA—www. prada.com. Open daily 10am7pm. Via Roma, 27/r. T: 055 287066. • Open daily 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 53-67/r. T: 055 267471. Map E3 SAINT LAURENT—www.ysl.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 43-45. T: 055 9040100. Map E3 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— www.ferragamo.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 4-14/r. T: 055 292123. Map E4 STEFANO RICCI—www.stefanoricci.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Palazzo Tornabuoni - Via dei Pescioni, 1. T: 055 210856. Map F3 SWAROVSKI—www.swarovski.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 10am-7.30pm. Via dei Calzaiuoli, 43/r. T: 055 216227. Map F3 TOD’S—www.tods.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am7.30pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 60/r. T: 055 219423. Map E3 VALENTINO—www.valentino.com. Women. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 23/r. T: 055 293142. Map E4
Sizing Women,s clothes IT EUR US UK 36 32 1 4 38 34 2 6 40 36 4 8 42 38 6 10 44 40 8 12 46 42 10 14 48 44 12 16 Women,s shoes IT EUR US UK 36 36 6 3 37 37 6.5 4 38 38 7.5 5 39 39 8.5 6 40 40 9 7 41 41 9.5 8 Men,s clothes IT EUR US UK 50 46 36 36 52 48 38 38 54 50 40 40 56 52 42 42 58 54 44 44 60 56 46 46
Intense and long-lasting, the colours of ’Les Beiges’ by CHANEL give you a beautiful, natural and radiant look.
The overlapping of a Bohemian spirit and technical cotton are the key to this outfit BRUNELLO CUCINELLI.
Men,s shoes IT EUR US UK 40 40 7.5 6 41 41 8 7 42 42 8.5 8 43 43 9 9 44 44 10.5 10 45 45 11.5 11 46 46 12 12
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SHOPPING Elena Mirò
Tax Free Refund Guide 1. VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a value added tax on goods and services, and is part of the European Union’s value added tax system. 2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a VAT refund. This refund does not cover the services supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies. 3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: • you are a non-EU resident; • the goods purchased are intended for personal or family use only and are carried in your luggage; • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds 154,94 Euro (VAT included); • the purchase is certified by an invoice. This invoice should include a description of the goods purchased, your personal information as well as the details of your passport or any other equivalent document; • the goods leave EU territory by the end of the third month after the month that you bought them; • several specific customs formalities are complied with; • the invoice is returned to the Italian retailer within four months after the purchase was made. 4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must be shown at the customs exit point when leaving EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items into your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs BEFORE checking in). 5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return the original invoice, regularly endorsed by the customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice must be returned within four months from the date when the document was issued. 6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian retailer (however, make sure that the shop you’ve chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax Free” sign in its window). 7. Several Tax-Free companies are able to offer immediate VAT cash refunds when the goods leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating the passenger from having to return the invoice to the retailer). However, this procedure only applies at major international airports or main border crossings. Most major department stores have Tax Free Refund offices. 8. The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply the payment of a small administrative sum which is directly deducted from the amount of VAT refunded to the traveller. 9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund within a reasonable period of time, he or she should re-contact the Italian retailer or one of the aforementioned companies. 10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded directly by customs offices. Source: www.agenziadoganemonopoli.gov.it/ portale/ee/citizen/vta-refund
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An Italian prêt-à-porter brand dedicated to curvy women, for over 30 years Elena Mirò has been synonymous with perfect-fit clothing items that enhance every woman’s look with a contemporary, refined and ever new style. From dresses to outerwear, from trousers to accessories, to beachwear, the brand expresses the pleasure of dressing a woman’s shape with style. www. elenamiro.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. Via dei Tosinghi, 8/r. T: 055 2657725. Map F3
Giovanni Raspini In the beating heart of the fashion district, the boutique of the Tuscan jewellery brand based in Valdichiana (between Siena, Arezzo and Florence) is a genuine concept store that boasts a personalized layout design where a 15th-century tapestry stands out. Fine jewellery - with a unique personality, often animal-themed, sometimes oversized or limited edition - silverware, objects for the home, handcrafted white bronze creations, always having a style that is midway between minimalism and classicism as the common denominator. From the design to the wax model to “lost-wax” casting, to diamondsetting, each piece is entirely hand worked. Open daily 10am-9pm. www.giovanniraspini.com. Via Porta Rossa, 82/r. T: 055 2741501. Map E4
Luisa Via Roma
MULTIBRAND STORE Founded in the early 1930s by Luisa Jaquin, today Luisa Via Roma is a landmark for lovers of fashion and luxury the world over. A global powerhouse of e-commerce with 5 million visitors a month, its Florence store also offers a digitalized purchasing experience: instead of displaying the garments, they have been replaced with interactive installations. Don’t miss the elegant terrace designed by Patricia Urquiola. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. www.luisaviaroma.com. Via Roma, 19-21/r. T: 055 9064116. Map F3
Marina Rinaldi Renowned for its tasteful, plus-size apparel for fashionable women, Marina Rinaldi offers a wide range of collections, featuring both contemporary and classic lines that are updated on a seasonal basis. These include dresses, jackets, coats, bags and accessories for a total look that exudes class and elegance. it.marinarinaldi.com. Open Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; Sun 10.30am-8.30pm c/o RinascentePiazza della Repubblica. T: 055 219113. Map F3
Société Anonyme An independent shop of North-European conception inspired by the underground atmospheres of the hot-lazy neighbourhoods of London, Berlin and New York (the name is a homage to Marcel Duchamp and Peggy Guggenheim, who founded an avant-garde art gallery in New York called Société Anonyme in the 1920s). Located in the literary artistic district of Sant’Ambrogio, it offers labels of international renown and niche brands, as well as its own men’s and women’s collection that is only sold in-store and online. www.societeanonyme.it. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via G.B. Niccolini, 3/f corner of via della Mattonaia, 24/a/b/c/d. (Sant’Ambrogio District).T: 055 3860084. Map L3
Stefano Ricci Tailoring and Italian tradition “Made in Florence”, with the purest male elegance as the watchword. These, in short, are the values of the company founded in 1972 by Stefano Ricci and his wife Claudia,
The essence of nature in a jewellery item: these earrings from the ’Dune’ collection by ANNA MARIA CAMMILLI are all about soft forms and precious details. which, now in its second generation, has become a successful international group. From clothing (jackets, suits and high-fashion sports items, but also shirts and ties) to jewellery, from leatherwear to perfumes and the SR Home and SR Junior collections, Stefano Ricci represents Italian excellence all over the world, making production entirely hand-made by qualified Italian craftsmen its strong point. Faithful to the values of the manufacturing tradition and the roots of the territory, in 2010 the firm acquired the Antico Setificio Fiorentino, a historic silk factory in the San Frediano district that has produced precious fabrics since 1786 and today still uses the original ancient hand looms. www.stefanoricci.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Palazzo Tornabuoni-Via dei Pescioni, 1. T: 055 210856. Map E3
DEPARTMENT STORES Rinascente In the heart of the city, Rinascente is the ideal place to discover the best of fashion, accessories, beauty, home and design items. For women, proposals of the best Italian and international brands range from the classic to the contemporary and for men from formal to smart casual. Rinascente is a point of reference for luxury shopping and for new brands, exclusive products and the unveiling of innovations. There is a Food Market on the fourth floor with gourmet products made in Italy and a selection of excellent international products, while the Terrace with café-bar (T: 055 283612) offers a spectacular 360° panoramic view of the city’s main landmarks www. rinascente.it. Open Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; Sun 10.30am8.30pm. Piazza della Repubblica. T: 055 219113. Map F3
FINE ARTS Abacus
BINDERY A workshop producing precious bindings. The raw materials, such as “Acid Free” paper, 100% cotton or leather with vegetable tanning or handdyed using ancient methods and natural waxes, are all selected with care. All the phases are supervised in the workshop: from the folding of the sheets by hand to the delicate phase of hand stitching, to the application of the cover using various styles. www.abacusfirenze.com. Open Mon 2.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am-7.30pm. Via dei Macci, 50 (Santa Croce district). T: 345 3280318. Map L4
Antico Setificio Fiorentino The Antico Setificio Fiorentino is the heir to a great tradition of Renaissance textile art and history, thanks also to its famous warping machine based on a design by Leonardo da Vinci. Since 1786 the workshop has been producing some of the most sumptuous silk brocades, damask, taffeta, and lampas in the world, 100% made in Italy. www.anticosetificiofiorentino.com. Open Mon-Fri 10am-6pm (by appointment only). Via L. Bartolini, 4. T: 055 213861. Map B3
#BoggiGentlemanStyle
A GENTLEMAN FINDS IRONY IN EVERYTHING. - Rule 23 -
boggi.com
FIRENZE | Via della Vigna Nuova 27 | Tel. +39 055 219.179
UNIQUE IN FLORENCE OTTICA MANTOVANI LEONE CEI & SONS Since 1902, an exceptional firm specializing in dressing tables, appliqués, consuls, chairs and armchairs faithfully reproduced from antique models from a rare and abundant archive. The production, entirely made in Florence, is destined for private homes, hotels and private clubs all over the world. Qualified consultancy service provided on antiques and on the reproduction of period items. www.leonecei.com Via dei Fossi, 47/r. T: 055 2396039.
GALLERIA ROMANELLI The Galleria Romanelli has been handing down precious sculpture artwork for six generations in Borgo San Frediano. An artistic workshop, a meeting place for buyers and artists, where sculptors and their students carry out their work daily surrounded by the ancient tools of the trade. Work is done by commission on original sculptures, chalk replicas, bronze and Carrara marble and restorations. www.raffaelloromanelli.com Borgo San Frediano, 70. T: 055 2396047.
LA MÉNAGÈRE A delightful concept store that includes a shop with design objects for the home, a florist’s, in addition to a restaurant and a bistro. Located right in the city centre, in the space that was once occupied by the first Florentine household item shop, which opened in 1896, it combines industrial and recycled materials and design objects for a contemporary result with a romantic touch. www.lamenagere.it Via de’ Ginori, 8/r. T: 055 0750600.
IL TORCHIO Inspired by the ancient Florentine hand crafting tradition, Il Torchio creates bookbinding products with refined materials such as Florentine leather, hand-marbled paper and coloured cloths, also devising new artisan articles with contemporary materials and techniques.
www.legatoriailtorchio.it Via de’ Bardi, 17. T: 055 2342862.
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SHOPPING JEWELRY & WATCHES
Galleria Romanelli The Galleria Romanelli has been handing down precious sculpture artwork for six generations in one of the most picturesque neighbourhoods of Florence, Borgo San Frediano. An artistic workshop, a meeting place for buyers and artists, where sculptors and their students carry out their work daily surrounded by the ancient tools of the trade. Work is done by commission on original sculptures, chalk replicas, bronze and Carrara marble and restorations. www.raffaelloromanelli.com. Open Mon-Fri 10am-1pm/2pm-6pm. Borgo San Frediano, 70. T: 055 2396047.Map C4
Alessandro Dari
UNIQUE Housed in the 15th-century Palazzo Nasi-Quaratesi, the “Museum Shop” of master goldsmith Alessandro Dari has an area used to exhibit his precious works and another used as an artistic workshop where jewellery and decorative objects are developed, including one-off items and themed collections. Some of his works are displayed at the nearby Treasury of the Grand Dukes in Palazzo Pitti. www.alessandrodari.com. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. Via San Niccolò, 115/r. T: 055 244747. Map G6
Leone Cei & Sons Since 1902, an exceptional firm specializing in dressing tables, appliqués, consuls, chairs and armchairs faithfully reproduced from antique models from a rare and abundant archive. The production, entirely made in Florence, is destined for private homes, hotels and private clubs all over the world. The carving, gilding, burnishing and lacquering work is performed rigorously by hand following traditional procedures and using natural products and pigmentations. A huge department is dedicated to fabrics for furnishings, with a collection of fabrics still produced on ancient looms or limited editions, or produced on request and based on customers’ designs. Qualified consultancy service provided on antiques and on the reproduction of period items. www.leonecei.com. Headquarters & Showroom: Via dei Federighi, 15. T: 055 2381870. Map D3 • Antiques: Via dei Fossi, 47/r. T: 055 2396039. Map D3
Papiro (Il) Established in 1976 in Florence, Il Papiro produces objects drawing their inspiration from the Florentine tradition of marbled paper (diaries, address books, photo albums, articles for the desk) in addition to a line of classic leather accessories. www.ilpapirofirenze.eu. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1pm/2pm-7pm; Sun 10am-6pm. Via C. Cavour, 49/r. T: 055 6499151. Map G1
The new ’Sophia ’ bucket bag by GIANNI CHIARINI is a cult object for vintage lovers, celebrating the union of essential design and high-quality production made in Italy.
Pitti Mosaici Since the early 1980s this studio right opposite Palazzo Pitti keeps alive the ancient Florentine tradition of marquetry with marble, hard and semi-precious stones. Unique hand-made items to provide coverings for walls, framed items and furnishings recalling the atmospheres and style of the Renaissance. Today the art studio creates entire made-to-measure residential projects all over the world. www.pittimosaici.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-8pm. Piazza de’ Pitti, 23/24. T: 055 282127. Map E6
Torchio (Il) Inspired by the ancient Florentine hand crafting tradition, Il Torchio creates bookbinding products with refined materials such as Florentine leather, handmarbled paper and coloured cloths, also devising new artisan articles with contemporary materials and techniques. www.legatoriailtorchio.it.Open Mon-Fri 10am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm; Sat 10am-1pm. Via de’ Bardi, 17. T: 055 2342862. Map G6
Angela Caputi Giuggiù
COSTUME JEWELLERY The brand is renowned throughout the world. Sophisticated, original creations made from unusual materials such as plastic and resin, combined to create unique objects both in terms of colour and shape. Her creations have been used as accessories by famous television and film producers. The accessory as a focal point, capable of creating a look or dressing up any type of garment. A magical blend of contemporary and classical taste. www. angelacaputi.com. Shop and workshop: Open MonSat 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via S. Spirito, 58/r. T: 055 212972. Map D4 • Boutique Borgo SS. Apostoli, 44-46/r. T: 055 292993. Map F4
Annamaria Cammilli A Florentine brand of reference in design jewellery, it has been present with its creations in shop windows and display cases all over the world for over 30 years and is synonymous with a unique, unmistakable Italian style. Attention to detail for rings, necklaces, bracelets and brooches, often drawing inspiration from nature and the floral world. www.annamariacammilli.com. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 11am-7pm; Sun 3pm7pm. Via Vacchereccia, 12/r. T: 055 2608617. Map F4
Aprosio Aprosio came about as a workshop in 1993 and creates jewellery accessories and products for decorating interiors, with glass beads from Murano and Bohemia crystal glass. www.aprosio.it. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am7pm. Via del Moro 75-77/r, 12/r. T: 055 210127. Map E2
Cassetti 1926 In the spectacular context of Ponte Vecchio, the Cassetti multibrand boutique is known for both fine watchmaking and haute joaillerie, and has a studio that develops innovative projects with its own artisan collection. www.cassetti.it. Open daily 10am-7pm. Ponte Vecchio, 54/r. T: 055 287361. Map F5
Damiani
OFFICINA PROFUMO FARMACEUTICA DI SANTA MARIA NOVELLA The Grand Sales Room, which you come to immediately after the entrance, was originally one of the chapels of the ancient Dominican convent, then became a storeroom in the 18th century and finally a hall to welcome the customers of the pharmacy and apothecary. www.smnovella.com
Master craftsmen since 1924, Damiani has a long goldsmithing tradition which it has always interpreted with innovative spirit. Line purity, a refined, elegant classic as well as contemporary spirit, are the distinctive values of Damiani jewellery. Their collections are realized by master goldsmiths in full accordance with the best Italian tradition and admired throughout the world. www.damiani.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 7/r. T: 055 290208. Map E4
Dodo The gold Dodo jewellery line, created in 1995 by Pomellato, is by now a classic either for gift or collection purposes. It sells an array of animal charm pieces, each of which has a particular meaning. www.dodo.it. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 39
SHOPPING
ASPESI See page33.
11.30am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 39-41/r. T: 055 2741573. Map E4
Massai Orafi Founded in 1950 by Florentine master goldsmith Franco Massai, it boasts over 60 years in the field of Florentine fine goldsmithery. With the techniques of the past it produces unique, rigorously hand-made pieces and is a point of reference for Florentines and others besides. EDITOR’S TIP A visit to the workshop is an unique experience: on the top floor of a 16th-century tower house, for over 200 years master goldsmiths practise the ancient fretworking, carving and engraving traditions typical of the Florentine goldsmithery art. www.massaiorafi.it. Open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm/3pm-7.30pm. Via delle Terme, 13. T: 055 294800. Map F4
OFFICINE PANERAI
DR. VRANJES
See this page.
See page 44.
Officine Panerai
Rolex Boutique-Cassetti 1926
Situated in the centre of Florence, birthplace of the fine watchmaking trade, this historic boutique boasts a unique design and a strong identity that Spanish designer Patricia Urquiola has enhanced by working with the idea of the “art workshop”. A space on the first floor is devoted to special sales and another is reserved for periodic exhibitions of watches from the historical Museum; on the ground floor, a watchmaker is at customers’ disposal to carry out repairs and share his passion with Panerai enthusiasts. www.panerai.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Piazza San Giovanni, 14/r. T: 055 9040013. Map F2
In the unique and exclusive setting that is Ponte Vecchio, the Rolex boutique has three storeys: the ground floor is dedicated to sales, with three display tables; the first floor has two rooms for reserved sales; the second floor has a fully equipped customer care centre, where qualified Rolex technicians are available to look after the precious timepieces. www.cassetti.it. Open daily 10am-7pm. Ponte Vecchio, 29/r. T: 055 2741044. Map F5
Tiffany & Co. Located in the luxury shopping street par excellence, the Tiffany & Co. boutique is housed in one of the most beautiful Palazzi in the city. There is plenty of space inside for gold and silver fashion collections, such as ’Tiffany City HardWear’ and ’Tiffany T’, jewels with purest diamonds, the iconic engagement rings, design creations by Elsa Peretti and Paloma Picasso and rigorously Swiss-made men’s and women’s watches. www.tiffany.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni 37/r. T: 055 215506. Map C4
Ugo Poggi It came about in Florence in the early 20th century as a producer of silverware, porcelain, glassware and furnishings. After a century, now in its third generation, today the brand proposes a sophisticated production of luxury Florentine hand-crafted items for the home: from precious crystal chandeliers to bone china crockery, to a precious selection of antique silverware. No longer just internally produced furnishing accessories, but also historic Italian and top quality international brands. www.ugopoggifirenze.com. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sun 10am-7pm. Via degli Strozzi, 26/r. T: 055 216741. Map E3
Vacheron Constantin Boutique
AQUAZZURA High level craftsmanship and contemporary design are the key features of this brand created in 2011 and inspired by designer Edgardo Osorio. Aquazzura shoes combine style and comfort and are worn by movie stars and the icons of the fashion world. www.aquazzura.com
42 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I J U N E 2018
In the unique and exclusive setting that is Ponte Vecchio, this boutique is the oldest fine watchmaking design house in the world, founded in 1755 in Geneva. The façade of the boutique is also known for the tabernacle with a painting of the Madonna with Child and Saint John that marked the presence of an ancient oratory of the Holy Sepulchre, which came under the control of the Knights of Malta in the early 14th century. www. cassetti.it. Open daily 10am-7pm. Ponte Vecchio, 52/r. T: 055 2396028. Map F5
Luisa Via Roma, a unique shopping experience
Luisa Via Roma was founded in the early 1930s by Luisa Jaquin, and her imagination and later that of her grandson, Andrea Panconesi, have turned this high street boutique into a landmark for lovers of fashion and luxury the world over. It earned its fortune to begin with by scouting emerging stylists who would
Luisa Via Roma Boutique Via Roma, 19-21/r. T: 055 9064116 Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm www.luisaviaroma.com
go on to dominate the pantheon of global fashion (they were the first to bring an unknown Kenzo to Italy in the late 1960s). The next happy move was to open an online boutique in 1999, when few people were willing to take the risk of buying on the web. Today Luisa Via Roma is a global powerhouse of e-commerce with 5 million visitors a month, and its Florence store also offers a digitalized purchasing experience: instead of displaying the garments, they have been replaced with interactive installations. Luckily, some things never change, like the pleasure of a relaxing break, before or after your shopping spree, on the elegant terrace designed by Patricia Urquiola.
Andrea Panconesi, CEO of Luisa Via Roma and grandson of the founder Luisa, has led the company for more than 40 years. He began work in the family boutique as window dresser and buyer in the 1960s, and from the start was on the look out for emerging talents and trends.
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SHOPPING Gianni Chiarini Established in the 1990s, this brand is the expression of ancient artisan wisdom in the creation of contemporary bags and Since 1774 PINEIDER products have been accessories, with an idea of pure design. synonymous with contemporary style shaped by A fresh, modern and cosmopolitan brand, artisan savoir faire, uniqueness, tradition and design. but at the same time sophisticated, which has its roots in the heart of Florentine beauty. giannichiarini.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Via della Vigna Nuova, 52/r. T: 055 2654306. Map D3
LEATHER
Cuoieria Fiorentina
From the famous ancient hand-crafting tradition of the Florentine “pellai” [leather craftsmen], typical of this area of Tuscany, here unique, inimitable products are created with extreme care and top-quality natural materials. A vast range of leather handbags, travel bags and accessories (belts, wallets, briefcases…), for him and for her, offering excellent value for money. Another strong point is the personalization of the products, organised to satisfy the tastes and requirements of customers, who can count Michelle Obama among their number. www.cuoieriafiorentina. it. Open Mon-Sat 9am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via de’ Nicola, 11. T: 055 6505091. Off Map
PASSION SHOPPING AquaFlor A perfume shop with the charm of past times, dedicated to the hand-crafted manufacture of perfumes made using natural and rare raw materials, personalisable through the choice of fragrances. A studio run impeccably by maître parfumier Sileno Cheloni. www.aquaflor.it. - www.aquaflorfirenze. com Open daily 10am-1pm/2pm-7pm. Borgo Santa Croce, 6. T: 055 2343471. Map H5
Il Bisonte
Dr. Vranjes
Florentine leather goods brand Il Bisonte came about in 1970 thanks to Wanny Di Filippo’s passion for leather objects. Housed in the boutique in Palazzo Corsini on the Lungarno are its beautifully hand-crafted bags, travel bags, briefcases, wallets, diaries, belts and other accessories epitomising the best of Tuscan workmanship. The brand’s key focus is on materials, including its iconic cowhide: a natural, highly sought-after vegetable tanned leather which has the advantage of improving with age. www.ilbisonte.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm: Sun 11.30am-6.30pm. Via del Parione, 31-33/r. T: 055 215722. Map E4
Home fragrances and elegant furnishing accessories made by hand in Florence for more than 30 years. Florence is home to the laboratories and the headquarters of the Florentine home fragrance company founded and managed by the “nose”, the perfumer, namely chemist and cosmetologist Dr. Paolo Vranjes and his wife Anna Maria. In addition to the traditional production of ambient diffusers and “lamparfum” items (crystal glass and ceramic catalytic lamps with fragrancing systems), the brand has diversified its production with linen, cosmetics, perfumes and gift boxes, also giving a strong Florentine identity to the packaging, inspired by Brunelleschi’s Dome. drvranjes.it. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-2pm/3pm-7pm. Via San Gallo, 63/r. T: 055 494537 Off Map • Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. Via della Spada, 9/r. T: 055 288796. Map E3• Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 10am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Sat 10am-7.30pm. Borgo La Croce, 44/r. T: 055 241748. Map l3
La Ménagère
CONCEPT STORE A delightful concept store of around 1500 square metres that includes a shop with design objects for the home, a florist’s, in addition to a restaurant and a bistro. Located right in the city centre, in the space that was once occupied by the first Florentine household item shop, which opened in 1896, it combines industrial and recycled materials and design objects for a contemporary result with a romantic touch. www. lamenagere.it. Open daily 7am-2am. Via de’ Ginori 8/r. T: 055 0750600. Map F1
Madova Gloves
The sacred heart of Dolce & Gabbana Devotion Bag. The evocative name of the new bag from Dolce & Gabbana, which celebrates ADVERTORIAL the indisputable devotion of Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana to style, attention to detail,
and a concept of fashion founded on craftsmanship, passion and creativity. The distinguishing feature of the Devotion Bag is the heart in antiqued brass, clad in a fine layer of 24k gold applied to the clasp. The crafting of this precious frieze involves the lost wax technique, commonly used by goldsmiths, whereby the form is modelled in warm wax and a mould is then built around it, after which molten metal, in this case brass, is poured into the mould, displacing the wax. The resulting heart is embellished with a miniature of the DG logo and framed by pearls and foliage motifs, which recall the decorations of the sacred tradition. The Devotion Bag is available in three colours (black, red, and optical white) and three sizes (small, medium, and large), with a quilted or smooth leather finish. Completing this portable treasure chest is a leather hand grip, or a 24k gold-plated brass shoulder chain. www.dolcegabbana.it
44 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I J U N E 2018
Since 1919 for four generations Madova has produced leather gloves lined with cashmere, rabbit fur, silk or lambswool. Located between Ponte Vecchio and Palazzo Pitti, is the only Florentine shop that produces its excellent quality gloves in-house, with a vast assortment of models and colours. Deliveries worldwide. www.madova. com. Open Mon-Fri 10.30am-7pm; Sat 9.30am7pm. Via de’ Guicciardini, 1/r. T: 055 2396526. Map F5
Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella
UNIQUE The oldest historical pharmacy in Europe (established in 1221), the Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica is housed in a part of the Dominican convent complex of Santa Maria Novella and has been open to the public for over four centuries (since 1612). Its products (perfumes, beauty products, medicinal herbs, herbal teas, sweets and chocolates) are sold all over the world in 75 single brand stores and represent a production par excellence on account of their quality raw materials and centuries-old handicraft techniques, with the aid of modern technologies. The frescoed monumental environments - Sales
[RINASCENTE]
The best shopping
In the heart of Florence, just a few steps away from the historic treasures of the city, you will find Rinascente: the ideal place to find the best in fashion, accessories, beauty, home and design. And don’t miss the top floor with the Terrazza bar & restaurant.
THIS PAGE IS KINDLY SPONSORED BY RINASCENTE
Shoppers will find commodities of the best Italian and international brands. A large area is dedicated to women’s fashion which includes a vast and prestigious range in both classic fashions as well as the latest trends. Special attention is also given to men’s wear where shoppers can choose from formal attire to smart casual wear. The constant arrival of new brands, unique commodities and the latest products exclusive to Rinascente make the store the focal point for your high-end shopping in the city. The Food Market on the fourth floor is a space dedicated to the best Made in Italy gourmet food and a selection of the most sought-after international produce. The choicest pasta, delicious sauces, tasty appetizers, luxurious chocolates and many
more mouth-watering sweet and savoury culinary delights, all distinct for choice ingredients and exquisite packaging. All products at the Food Market can be packaged in one of our elegant Gift boxes. Should you need some advice, you can make an appointment with one of our personal shoppers that are at your disposal every day to help you put together a fantastic food hamper.
>> Rinascente www.rinascente.it Open Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; Sun 10.30am-8.30pm. Piazza della Repubblica. Map F3 T: 055 219113
On the top floor you can enjoy a spectacular view of the Duomo while having a drink at la Terrazza bar & restaurant: at lunch you can enjoy a menu that includes pasta dishes of the day, the renowned pappa al pomodoro (tomato bread soup), Caprese salad, Niçoise with tuna, boiled egg and olives, Greek with cucumber, feta cheese and black olives, raw meat and fish, sandwiches with fresh ingredients and seasonal produce. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 45
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shoemakers and craftspeople in the city. Created Chiesa di Sant'Agata in Florence in 2011 and inspired by the luxury hand-crafting tradition, the brand combines a typically European refined aesthetic sensibility with modern Latin American elegance. Aquazzura V IA shoes have been worn by trendsetters,G UHollywood S TA V O stars, European royalty and fashion insiders M VI O A Giardino VE around thePandolfini globe. www.aquazzura.com. OpenD E N A Palazzo NE ZI daily 10am-7pm. Lungarno Corsini, 42.A T: 055 291242. Chiesa di Map D4 V I A P
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V. NEW The sixth point-of-sale opened in Italy, inF IL IP P O S Wolford VIA C. LE BA R RT V IA OL LINGERIE I DAO Lhigh-end a city representing excellence in thePIAZZALE history of the Austrian hosiery, lingerie OM FI VI ME BAMBINE E BAMBINI A I PIAZZA DE parfumier’s art. The historic brand epitomising the and beachwear brand. In its extensive readyLL DI BESLAN INDIPENDENZA A FO RT Venetian art of perfume-making carries a luxury line to-wear and lingerie range, from modern styles EZ ZA comprising a wide range of exclusive fragrances to classic cuts made from the finest materials, I L V there is no shortage of dresses, shirts, trousers, IA E Lfor men and women, bath and body collections, S Giardino X S X di Valfonda flacons V home fragrances and accessories in elegant skirts, sweaters and costumes. www.wolfordshop. RO II I A VI LL P A based on the ancient designs of renowned Murano it. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10.30amR IL G VI U E E A LF glass blowers. www.themerchantofvenice.com. 1.30pm/2.30pm-7.30pm. Via dei Calzaiuoli, 64/r. T: IA A Firenze Fiera CO San Giuliano I P O Open Mon-Tues 10.30am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7.30pm. 055 219169. Map F4 N I DA NN CE DI Wed-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Via degli Strozzi, 28/r. B. AC V. San Barnaba CE T: 055 216559. Map E3 TO PIAZZA
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Room, Green Room, Ancient Apothecary and Sacristy - have been returned to their former splendour thanks to restoration work. www. Fortezza da Basso smnovella.com. Open daily 9am-8pm. Via della Scala, 16. T: 055 216276. Map D2
PIAZZA DELLA LIBERTA’
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STYLE PINKO
agenda Put yourself on the style map with the latest trends for up to 70% less
With summer around the corner, there’s never been a better time to refresh your look. Fabulous florals were all over the catwalks this season - discover the trend and more from renowned Italian and international designer brands like Furla, Dolce & Gabbana and Pinko for up to 70% less at Barberino Designer Outlet. And with an array of cafés and restaurants to enjoy during your visit, it’s guaranteed to be a memorable day out.
PATRIZIA PEPE
Tax free shopping
Non-EU residents can enjoy a tax refund on products purchased in our centre. FOSSIL
SAVE AN EXTRA 10% Show this page to our Guest Services to redeem your Fashion Passport, giving you an extra 10% off outlet prices.
GETTING HERE We’re just 30 minutes from Florence. Take our convenient shuttle bus from Florence Railway Station.
mcarthurglen.it/barberino
CONVERSE
[ D A I LY T O U R S ]
Fashion outlets LUGANO MENDRISIO
Not far from Florence, in Tuscany but also in nearby EmiliaRomagna, don’t miss a trip to these shopping destinations offering discounts year-round.
BERGAMO BRESCIA
NOVARA
TRIESTE
MILANO
ALESSANDRIA TORINO
PIACENZA? Fidenza Village GENOVA
MAR LIGURE VENTIMIGLIA
FORTE DEI MARMI
FERRARA
MAR
BOLOGNA ?
LUCCA
PISA
Castel Guelfo ADRIATICO The Style Outlets
Barberino RIMINI ? Designer Outlet THE APPENNINI MOUNTAIN RIDGE
FIRENZE SAN GIMIGNANO ? The Mall Firenze
LIVORNO
SIENA
Valdichiana
? Outlet Village
ANCONA
PERUGIA
BARBERINO DESIGNER OUTLET McArthurGlen Barberino is conveniently located adjacent to the A1 motorway, for easy access from Florence (just 30 minutes from the city centre). McArthurGlen also boasts “Serravalle” near Milan (the largest Designer Outlet in Europe), “Castel Romano” near Rome, “La Reggia” near Naples and “Noventa di Piave” close to Venice. Open daily 10am-8pm. • WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the direction of Bologna and exit at Barberino. Daily shuttle bus service from Florence Santa Maria Novella train station (4 times a day). Meeting point: City Sightseeing Firenze Line A Stop No.1, Florence SMN Train Station, left-luggage office side. • WHAT: the perfect location to find your favourite designer brands at up to 70% off, all year round. With more than 120 boutiques, cafés and restaurants, children’s play area and free parking, surrounded by wonderful Tuscany countryside and architecture, Barberino Designer Outlet offers something for everyone. McArthurGlen.it/Barberino CASTEL GUELFO THE STYLE OUTLETS The point where quality, style and convenience meet: men’s, women’s and children’s clothes, sportswear, accessories and cosmetics with discounts of between 30% and 70% all year round. Castel Guelfo The Style Outlets is located in the Emilia-Romagna region, 1.5 hours from Florence. Open Mon-Fri 10am-8pm; Sat and Sun 10am-8.30pm. • WHERE: take the A1 Bologna-Ancona and exit at Castel San Pietro Terme. A free shuttle service is available daily from Castel San Pietro Terme railway station. 48 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I J U N E 2018
• WHAT: 110 boutiques by prestigious brands – THE MALL FIRENZE such as Baldinini, K-way, Flavio Castellani, Guess, The luxury outlet centre The Mall Firenze is a Pepe Jeans, Timberland, Trussardi and Vans – of gallery of the world’s most exclusive designers clothing and accessories for the whole family, at truly advantageous prices, offeringPESCARA customers CORSICA sportswear, items for the home and beauty a unique shopping experience. It is set in the products, with discounts of up to 70% on the heart of the Tuscan countryside, just 30 minutes retail price. from Florence. Open daily 10am-7pm (in June, ROMA • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: to make the day of July, August 10am-8pm). shopping even more enjoyable, the centre also • WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the TIRRENO hosts art exhibitions, lots of eventsMAR and initiatives direction of Rome. Leave the motorway at the designed to involve the whole family. “Incisa-Reggello” exit and proceed on the right www.thestyleoutlets.it towards Pontassieve, as far as Leccio. Direct bus NAPOLI service from central Florence (Busitalia/Sita bus FIDENZA VILLAGE station-Via S. Caterina da Siena, near the central This is one of the 11 Villages in Europe and China railway station, €7). Exclusive door-to-door by Value Retail and one of The Bicester Village minivan service from centrally located hotels in Shopping Collection® Villages: a place where Florence (€35 round trip). Ask your concierge. SARDEGNA hospitality makes the shopping experience • WHAT: over 40 luxury stores (fashion, fragrance memorable. The Village is located in the Emiliaand footware) featuring your favourite brands Romagna region, 2 hours from Florence. Open with discounts of up to 70% year-round: Gucci, daily 10am-8pm. Fendi, Salvatore Ferragamo, Dolce&Gabbana, • WHERE: halfway between Bologna and Milan, Jimmy Choo, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta and near Parma. Take the A1-E35 motorway and exit Chloé (June 2018 Opening). at Fidenza/Salsomaggiore Terme. • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: the Gucci Caffè • WHAT: an exclusive shopping experience with Restaurant, on the top floor of the Gucci store, unique hospitality at the core of the services and is the perfect spot for a lunch break or just to with over 130 boutiques of the world’s leading savour a moment of relaxation after a day’s fashion and lifestyle brands at reduced prices (up shopping. www.themall.it to 70% off ), including Versace, Armani, Missoni, Calvin Klein, Diesel, Paul Smith and Michael Kors. VALDICHIANA OUTLET VILLAGE • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: the Village pays An authentic “Shopping Village” in the province homage to the region’s rich cultural and of Arezzo (1 hour from Florence), offering a gastronomic heritage. After your day of pleasant, relaxing atmosphere and a unique shopping, visit one of its restaurants to indulge shopping experience characterised by quality in delicious homemade pasta with fresh and convenience. It has several facilities and Parmesan cheese from nearby Parma. services, such as a beauty centre, a playground, www.fidenzavillage.com the library and several food courts where the
best local food and wines are on offer. Open daily 10am-8pm. • WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the direction of Rome and exit at Valdichiana Bettolle. • WHAT: 140 designer and brand shops characterized by quality and convenience offering 30% to 70% discounts all year round and further discounts during sale periods: Adidas, Baldinini, Brooks Brothers, Calvin Klein, Diadora, Geox, Guess, Levi’s, Massimo Rebecchi, Samsonite, Tommy Hilfigher, Under Armour and many others. • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: ample choice of the restaurants and refreshments, a modern playground, the possibility of recharging your electric car, free wi-fi, mobile phone recharge and, in the event of rain, the possibility of walking in the dry beneath the porticoes. www.valdichianaoutlet.it
Valdichiana Outlet Village
Castel Guelfo The Style Outlets
The Mall Firenze
Fidenza Village
Barberino Designer Outlet w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 49
PHOTO © FIRENZEYESPLEASE.COM
FOOD&WINE
Cantinetta Antinori, a taste of Tuscany The full range of Marchesi Antinori wines, accompanied by seasonal Tuscan dishes, in the unique setting of a 15th-century palace. By Sophia Bertoli
L
ocated on the ground floor of the old family home, Palazzo Antinori, one of the most important examples of mid-15th-century architecture, Cantinetta Antinori reflects the Antinori passion for wine and local traditions. One of the world’s oldest family firms, they have been producing wine for more than six hundred years. Over 26 generations they have established a closer and closer connection with wine and its rhythms, earning them an international reputation as one of the principal wine producers with several estates in Italy and abroad. Just inside the main entrance to the palace is the door of the Cantinetta, where guests are welcomed by the symbol of the Arte dei Vinattieri (Vintner’s Guild), which the first member of the Antinori family joined in 1385. In the restaurant 50 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I J U N E 2018
you can taste the full range of the company’s wines, by the bottle or the glass, accompanied by culinary specialities, prevalently Tuscan, many of which are based on products originating from the family’s various estates in Tuscany and Umbria. Precisely because the key ingredients are seasonal, the menu is made up of just a few (very good) items: for example you can begin with fettunta (grilled garlic bread) with kale, followed by a plate of Cinta Senese cold cuts, then grilled Tuscan sirloin steak with roast potatoes. And for dessert, what could be more Tuscan than a slice of castagnaccio (chestnut flour cake), accompanied by the right wine naturally? >> Piazza Antinori, 3. T: 055 292234 www.cantinetta-antinori.com
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT FLORENCE.WHEREITALIA.COM
FOOD SHOPS Galanti Delicatessen and wine shop. Classic dishes as well as soups, pappa al pomodoro, ribollita, chicken galantines, to eat in, under the porticoes outside or to take away. Wide selection of wines and home-made jams. Everything made with extravirgin olive oil and prime quality ingredients. www.gastronomiagalanti.com. Open Mon-Sat 8.30am-8pm. Piazza della Libertà, 31/r. T: 055 490359. Off Map
Giumella
VEGAN With recipes based on the products of the Florentine countryside, this delicatessen offers organic zero miles food, made the same day. Recipes with cereals and legumes, seeds and seasonal products. Among the specialties: reseitan – stone-ground Tuscan durum wheat semolina with water, salt and lentils – plus vegan cheeses based on walnuts, almonds, sunflower seeds, oats or rice flour. www.giumellavegan.it. Open Mon-Fri 10.30am-8pm. Via Lorenzo di Credi, 12/r. T: 393 8221084. Off Map
Pegna
Classic. To find out where Pescecane will be stopping, check the website www.pescepane.it. It recently opened “La Cucina di Pescepane” in via Carducci, where you can find the same specialities. Open Tues-Sun 12 noon-3pm/7.30pm-10.30pm. Via G. Carducci, 3 (Sant’Ambrogio district). T: 055 2344397. Map L3
amidst little tables and large windows. Huge selection of over 380 makes of rum, unique in the whole of Florence. Open from lunch to aftersupper, also hosts events. cafe1926firenze.com. Via G.B. Niccolini, 30/r (Sant’Ambrogio district). T: 055 2346296. Map L2
Pugi
Opened in Florence in 1934, this family-run wine shop offers a wide selection of wines and spirits from all over Italy and abroad, with a particular focus on France. www.enotecabonatti. it. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via V. Gioberti, 66-68/r. T: 055 660050. Off Map
Florentine’s favourite bread shop since 1925. Known for its schiacciata (a type of sponge cake), reputed to be one of the best in town, in classic or rustic versions, and for delicious stuffed focaccia, pizza, fritters and a vast range of breads and pastries. www.fornopugi.it. Several locations: Piazza San Marco, 9/b. T: 055 280981 (open Mon-Sat 7.45am-8pm; Via San Gallo, 62/r. T: 055 475975 (open Mon-Fri 7.45am-3.15pm); Via G. Orsini, 63-65. T: 055 689763 (Open Mon-Sat 8.45am-7.45pm). Off Map
WINE SHOPS Caffè 19.26 This bistrot in the Sant’Ambrogio district does a selection of Tuscan wines, Italian spumanti and champagne, served in a Bohemian atmosphere
Enoteca Bonatti
Signorvino In the heart of the city just steps from Ponte Vecchio, the shop has a choice of 1500 labels of selected wines from the best Italian cantinas, applying the same formula used in its 15 outlets across the country. It also does simple quality food from the various regions. The terrace has a wonderful view of the Arno and Ponte Vecchio. www.signorvino.com. Open daily 9.30am-midnight. Via de’ Bardi, 46/r. T: 055 286258. Map F5
With over 150 years behind it, this shop has become part of Florentine history. Just steps from the Duomo, a historic drugstore with all kinds of Tuscan, Italian and international specialities: rare cheeses, salumi and prosciutti. Plus a vast choice of wines and imported products like spices, coffee, tea and chocolate. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. pegna.it. Via dello Studio, 8. T: 055 282701. Map G3
STREET FOOD Antico Vinaio If when walking along Via de’ Neri you happen to come across a queue of people with a hungry air, there can be no doubt: they are waiting for a schiacciata at the Antico Vinaio. Just a stone’s throw from Piazza della Signoria, it is considered among the best street food available in Italy: its filled schiacciata and boards of Tuscan cured meats, accompanied by a glass of Chianti, are eaten at the counter, on stools or walking around Florence. €. www.allanticovinaio.com. Via Dei Neri 65/r. T: 055 2382723. Map G5
Cucciolo
PASTRY SHOP Bar-patisserie in Via del Corso, famed in the city for more than 40 years for its “bomboloni” (fried doughnuts) baked on the spot, dunked in sugar and filled with cream or chocolate. Worth a visit just for the show: the freshly made bomboloni are carried up from the kitchen on a ramp in full sight before depositing them directly in the sugar. Open Tues-Thurs 7.30am-10pm; FriSun 7.30am-midnight. Via del Corso, 25/r. T: 055 287727. Map G3
Pescepane
FISH Panini, fish & chips, mozzarella in fried bread, fried fish … all some of the specialities of this itinerant Street Seafood food truck. The delicious and creative menu varies each day depending on the availability of ingredients, using sustainable and high quality produce, often organic, with vegetables of the season and homemade sauces. Apart from the great food there is the visual appeal of the historic Italian Apecar
Genuine food for all tastes at the Central Market Where is it possible to taste Sicilian specialities, vegan dishes, Chianina hamburgers, sushi, fresh ADVERTORIAL pasta, dishes from the Tuscan tradition such as tripe and lamprey, high-quality meats, pizzas,
fried food specials and artisan ice-creams, all under one roof? At the Central Market in Florence, a temple of taste located right in the city centre and housed on the first floor of the historic covered market of San Lorenzo. In this sort of modern agora for gourmets, in addition to the craft shops where you can shop in the usual way, you can also take a seat at the large convivial tables and enjoy one of the many specialities that are prepared there on the spot. In a territory such as that of Florence, which is famous for the genuineness and quality of its dishes, the aim has been to protect consumers to the maximum: all the operators at the Central Market in fact sign a quality specification whereby all the dishes prepared inside the market are cooked using only the raw materials on sale at the market itself. The market also holds food and wine tasting courses, book presentations and events of all kinds. www.mercatocentrale.it
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A stellar experience of the past Two chefs combine their very different but complementary creative talents and backgrounds at the Winter Garden by Caino, which has recently been awarded one Michelin star. By Chiara Zaccarelli
H
e is Michele Griglio, from Turin, with a wealth of experience behind him in some of the most prestigious kitchens of Italy and the UK. She is Valeria Piccini, two-Michelin-star chef and owner, together with her husband, of the restaurant “Da Caino” in Montemerano, in the province of Grosseto. In 2013 they began a fruitful collaboration in tandem which led to the Winter Garden By Caino winning one Michelin star after only one year. Located inside the sumptuous hotel St. Regis Florence, the restaurant is a genuine winter garden from a bygone era, with art déco interior and enormous cristal chandeliers. The culinary fare is faithful to the local territory and tradition, but with the help of top quality raw materials it is open to 52 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I J U N E 2018
international ideas, energy and innovation being the distinguishing characteristics. Examples are the lobster, topinambour and mandarin or wholewheat hare ravioli, foie gras and black truffles, or the more traditional tripe and lampredotto which – believe it or not – has a very delicate taste. The sweets, which look as though they were laid on the plate by an abstract expressionist, are a genuine triumph of colours, flavours and unusual textures, such as the orange-olive oil emulsion, goat,s milk ice-cream and Peruvian false pepper. >> Winter Garden by Caino c/o Hotel St. Regis Florence Piazza Ognissanti,1. T: 055 27163770 www.wintergardenbycaino.com
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT FLORENCE.WHEREITALIA.COM
TUSCAN CUISINE 13 Gobbi Trattoria
In the heart of the old centre just steps away from the Lungarno, the Trattoria 13 Gobbi occupies a historic building where it offers authentic reinterpretations of the most genuine Tuscan recipes. Among the specialities of the house, rigatoni (served in a traditional stoneware tureen) and the inevitable bistecca alla fiorentina. €€. www.casatrattoria.com/trattoria-13-gobbi. Via del Porcellana, 9/r. T: 055 284015. Map D3
Benedicta
EDITOR’S TIP The Benedicta restaurant, to which the Michelin Guide 2017 assigned 3 forks, is a pearl hidden away in a side street near Santa Maria Novella, inside the Rivoli Boutique Hotel. Italian and Tuscan cuisine revisited in a contemporary vein, with a menu based on locally sourced ingredients that changes every two months depending on the season. Open 7.30pm-11pm; closed on Sun. From late April to October you can dine in the romantic flower garden. €€€. www.ristorantebenedicta.it. Via Benedetta 12/r. T:055 2645429. Map C2
Bordino Trattoria High up in a little street just a stone’s throw from the Ponte Vecchio, the Trattoria Bordino is always crowded with both locals and tourists because of its quality food at very affordable prices. The dishes are traditional, with bistecca alla fiorentina grilled directly on wood charcoal the speciality. A wide selection of Italian wines accompanies the dishes in a pleasant, relaxed environment. €€. www.trattoriabordino.it. Via Stracciatella, 9/r. T: 055 213048. Map F5
fish that arrives daily from Viareggio. The quality raw materials are cooked in the essential way, as in the Catalana and paccheri alla Trabaccolara and the main courses based on the day’s catch. €€€. www.fuordacqua.it. Via Pisana, 37/r. T: 055 222299. Map A3
IO Osteria Personale In the neighbourhood of San Frediano, which still conserves the charm of the most authentic Florence, surrounded by wooden ceilings and brick walls, a modern tavern that has a preference for the products of the territory, reinterpreting them in an innovative way. Among the titbits are crispy vitel toné, ravioli of wild salmon, whipped cream, ginger, herring caviar and dill or tagliatelle with raw red shrimps and seasonal mushrooms. €€. www.ioosteriapersonale.it. Borgo San Frediano 167/r. T: 055 9331341. Map B4
La Ménagère A concept restaurant not far from Battistero, combining restaurant, bistrot, florist and design store. In an ambiance of industrial design, the restaurant offers a high quality menu at affordable prices, combining traditional dishes based strictly on seasonal products, with a penchant
for experimentation in the mix of flavours and textures. €€. www.lamenagere.it. Via De’ Ginori, 8/r. T: 055 0750600. Map F1
Latini (Il) Historic trattoria near Santa Maria Novella highlighted in the Michelin Guide. Besides bistecca alla fiorentina, there are pork chops and ribs on the Il Latini grill, as well as roast beef or lamb. Also available are Florentine tripe and peposo (peppery Tuscan beef stew), depending on the season. The cantina is well stocked with the best Tuscan wines, autochthonous and non, as well as the big French labels. €€€. www.illatini.com Via dei Palchetti, 6. T: 055 210916. Map D3
Locale Firenze A restaurant steeped in history, in an ancient building where by just descending a few steps you can travel - like in a time machine - from the Renaissance to 13th-century Florence, to the wine cellars that conserve Roman remains. It is possible to stop for just an aperitif with sophisticated cocktails, accompanied by small snacks, or stay for dinner with dishes from the tradition revisited in a contemporary vein. €€€. www.localefirenze.it. Via delle Seggiole, 12/r. T: 055 9067188. Map H3
Cammillo A historic Florentine trattoria not far from Ponte Vecchio. Inside it is as if time stood still: the (very long) menu has practically all the classic Tuscan recipes, plus a few you wouldn’t expect like prawn curry with pilaf rice, actually one of Cammillo’s signature dishes. Also very good are the croutons with chicken livers, the ribollita, tripe, bistecca alla fiorentina and stuffed rabbit. €€. Borgo San Jacopo, 57/r. T: 055 212427. Map E5
Cibreo Trattoria Traditional dishes cooked in the slow time-honoured manner, rustic atmosphere with large friendly tables, also outdoors in summer. The menu is packed with regional delicacies, imaginatively re-invented: insalata di trippa, minestra di pane, polenta all’olio novello, passata di pesce, stuffed rabbit. Highlighted by the Michelin Guide as value for money. €€€. www.cibreo.com. Via de’ Macci, 122/r. Map L3
Da Burde The menu changes with the mood of the kitchen, and the seasons. Here you’ll find croutons with chicken livers, fiorentina, pappa col pomodoro, and ribollita. Highlighted by the Michelin Guide as excellent value for money, the atmosphere has remained that of the early 1900’s, as has the food, simple but rich in flavour. A well-stocked cantina, with Tuscan and Piedmontese wines but also French, including some fine champagne. €€€. www. vinodaburde.com. Via Pistoiese, 154. T: 055 317206. Off Map
Fuor d’acqua The cuisine of the Tuscan tradition also includes fish dishes. And in this restaurant in the historic centre you can find the true taste of the sea thanks to the
Gucci & Bottura, fashion and cuisine Massimo Bottura, the three-Michelin-star Italian chef, arrives in Florence with Gucci Osteria, inside the Gucci Garden, a new space for Florentine fashion brands. Located in the historic Palazzo della Mercanzia, in addition to the tavern, Gucci Garden also hosts a boutique of unique edition products, an auditorium and an exhibition area. The creative liaison between Gucci and Bottura celebrates two things Italy is very much renowned for: fashion and fine cuisine. Head of the team at the tavern is Colombian chef Ana Karime Lopez Kondo, wife of Bottura’s sous chef, Taka Kondo. In other words: an explosive blend of flavours ranging from Italy to the Orient, passing through Colombia, and then all over the world. The menu therefore benefits from all these contaminations and offers cosmopolitan titbits such as the “Taka-ban”, the classic Japanese steamed bun with pork belly and spicy sauce, or marinated Adriatic palamita with tortilla or fried aubergines in shiso sauce. But there are also tortellini in cream of parmigiano reggiano cheese, carciofi alla giudia and Chianina hot dog. Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura. Piazza della Signoria, 10. Map F4 www.gucci.com/it/it/store/osteria-bottura
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Top hotel restaurants Tradition, innovation and creativity: Where® highlights some culinary destinations to whet your appetite in several top hotels in Florence. By Jasmine Piazza
Hostaria Bibendum Borgo San Jacopo c/o Hotel Lungarno Borgo San Jacopo, 62/R. T: 055 281661 www.borgosanjacopo.com On the banks of the Arno, with a postcard view of Ponte Vecchio, the Borgo San Jacopo restaurant is the perfect place for a romantic evening. The traditional Italian dishes are reinterpreted using fine quality ingredients by Michelin-starred chef Peter Brunel, accompanied by collector wines from a cantina of 900 labels. Flora & Fauno c/o Hotel Ville sull’Arno Lungarno Cristoforo Colombo 3/5. T: 055 670971 www.hotelvillesullarno.com Facing the river and immersed in the lovely garden of the Hotel Ville sull’Arno, Flora & Fauno offers a peaceful spot with a vintage country feel in which to explore the flavours and aromas of Tuscany. Classic traditional recipes revisited in a contemporary accent. The protagonists on the menu are the local ingredients, juxtaposed sometimes in new and unexpected ways, at other times sticking to tradition. Golden Restaurant c/o Golden Tower Hotel & SPA Piazza Strozzi 11/r. T: 055 287860 www.goldentowerhotel.it The cuisine is based on the authentic flavours of Florentine and Italian wine and food, whose trump card is the guaranteed freshness and quality of the ingredients, chosen personally by the chef. Intimate and refined atmosphere, with high class furnishings and fittings. Gourmet Restaurant c/o Sina Villa Medici Via Il Prato, 42. T: 055 2771891 www.sinahotels.com Tuscan specialities in a fabulous setting. A mix of culinary tradition and fancy comprising reinventions of fine Tuscan cuisine, in the
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sophisticated ambiance of the Sina Hotel Villa Medici, an aristocratic 18th-century palace, recently renovated and restored to its former splendour. Hostaria Bibendum c/o Helvetia & Bristol Via dei Pescioni, 8/r. T: 055 2665620 www.starhotelscollezione.com This restaurant located in a magnificent 19th-century palace offers a menu inspired by tradition with a penchant for local producers and ingredients. Alongside more contemporary Italian dishes, a fully-rounded experience of Florence has to include Tuscan specialities such as panzanella, Chianti salumi and cheeses, pappa al pomodoro and honeylacquered duck, as well as desserts like cantucci with Vin Santo and Florentine sponge cake with Buontalenti gelato and vanilla topping. Il Conventino a Marignolle c/o Villa Tolomei Hotel & Resort Via di Santa Maria a Marignolle, 10. T: 055 3920425 www.ilconventinoamarignolle.com A very romantic view and frescoed rooms in a wonderful 12th-century villa surrounded by a vast estate comprising 20 hectares of olive groves, vineyards and orchards. The kitchen proposes traditional Tuscan and Italian dishes, prepared with seasonal products from the estate or the nearby countryside. Regional specialities typical of Tuscany, as well as the favourites of Italian cuisine. Il Palagio c/o Four Seasons Hotel Firenze Borgo Pinti, 99. T: 055 2626450 www.ilpalagioristorante.it A sophisticated ambiance with tables both inside and outside, Il Palagio is a Michelin-starred restaurant whose culinary offering looks to Italian and regional tradition with a modern touch. Chef Vito Mollica ventures far beyond the confines of Tuscan cuisine with dishes based on truffles, wagyu beef and three types of caviar. The wine list comprises more than 400 labels, of which 50 are also served by the glass.
The hotel also has two other restaurants: La Magnolia and Trattoria al fresco. Irene c/o Hotel Savoy Piazza della Repubblica, 7. T: 055 273 5891 www.roccofortehotels.com Inside the Hotel Savoy, a sumptuous fin-de-siècle building with an extraordinary collection of art works, the restaurant boasts a menu inspired by chef Fulvio Pierangelini, who together with head chef Giovanni Cosmai has designed a series of classic and new versions of Tuscan tradition, using the best local and seasonal products. J.K. Lounge Restaurant & Bar c/o JK Place Firenze Piazza di Santa Maria Novella, 7. T: 055 5321910 www.jkplace.com Here are Tuscan and Italian specialities made with local and seasonal ingredients, preferably organically farmed. In the summer months the elegant dining room, styled as a cosy living room, opens onto the terrace in the marvellous Piazza di Santa Maria Novella. La Cucina del Salviatino c/o Il Salviatino Via del Salviatino, 21- Fiesole (FI). T: 055 9041111 www.salviatino.com Majestic 15th-century villa in the hills of Fiesole, with a captivating view of Florence. Cuisine with strong links to the local territory and the seasons, with a prevalence of meat courses, though there is no shortage of fish and vegetarian dishes. The historic orchard and organic vegetable garden ensure zero food miles. Le Bistrot c/o Villa Cora Viale Machiavelli, 18. T: 055 22 87 90 www.villacora.it The location in itself is extraordinary: an ancient park that dominates the Boboli Gardens, the aristocratic residence that once hosted princess Eugenia, wife of
DINING
Napoleon III, and the French pianist Claude Debussy, among others. The menu, created by Executive Chef Alessandro Liberatore, offers traditional Tuscan dishes made exclusively with seasonal and for the most part locally sourced products. In winter the restaurant occupies the exquisite oriental Sala Moresca with its frescoed cupola ceiling, while in the summer it moves poolside to the winter garden. Relais Le Jardin c/o Hotel Regency Piazza M. D’Azeglio, 3. T: 055 245247 www.regency-hotel.com Located in the elegant Sala Zodiaco, amidst huge mirrors, candles and a veranda that in summer opens onto the private garden, the restaurant’s chef Sandro Baldini proposes a rich array of Italian and Tuscan dishes (home-made pasta and regional specialities such as truffles, porcini mushrooms, costolette alla fiorentina and others besides) that vary depending on the season’s ingredients, always fresh and of the highest quality. Ristorante La Chiostrina c/o Bernini Palace Piazza San Firenze, 29 (Piazza della Signoria). T: 055 288621 hotelbernini.duetorrihotels.com One of the most elegant and sophisticated restaurants in the historic centre, housed under a
16th-century portico. The menu draws on the most genuine local flavours, such as the celebrated pappa al pomodoro, for a sensory journey through Tuscan cuisine. Besides regional specialities, the menu also offers international dishes. Ristorante La Loggia c/o Belmond Villa San Michele Via Doccia, 4 - Fiesole (FI). T: 055 5678200 www.belmond.com This imposing 15th-century loggia is worth the visit just for its magnificent position looking over Florence. Regional Tuscan specialities and classic Italian dishes. Savini Tartufi Truffle Restaurant c/o NH Collection Firenze Porta Rossa Via Porta Rossa, 19. T: 055 3995913 www.savinitartufi.it/restaurants/savini-firenze Palazzo Bartolini houses one of the three restaurants in Italy run by Savini Tartufi, a family-owned business famed for nearly 100 years for its exclusive selection of truffles. Truffles are served all year round: from antipasto to dessert, savour the best varieties of fresh Tuscan truffles, from the Black Truffle and Tuber Borchii, to the more expensive White Truffle and Tuber magnatum Pico. Classic truffle items are flanked by other sophisticated dishes: tagliolino, egg, tartare. The menu also includes classic Tuscan dishes.
Se•Sto on Arno c/o The Westin Excelsior Florence Piazza Ognissanti 3. T: 055 27152783 www.westinflorence.com Local flavours and seasonal products for a Tuscan cuisine with a touch of innovation and an unforgettable view of Florence. On the sixth floor of The Westin Excelsior, SE•STO on Arno combines a restaurant, lounge, bar and garden enclosed by sweeping picture windows that make the most of the unique position and breathtaking view over the city. Villa La Vedetta c/o Villa La Vedetta Viale Michelangiolo, 78. T: 055 681631 www.villalavedettahotel.com Just moments away from the Piazzale Michelangelo belvedere, with a breathtaking view over Florence, is this discreet and elegant restaurant with a rich wine list, mainly focused on fine Tuscan reds. Local cuisine, with products and recipes typical of the region, so with meat, though there are plenty of vegan and vegetarian options too. Winter Garden by Caino c/o The Saint Regis Florence Piazza Ognissanti, 1. T: 055 27163770 www.wintergardenbycaino.com Immersed in the fin-de-siècle atmosphere of the Hotel Saint Regis Florence, the Michelin-starred restaurant Winter Garden by Caino, was born out of a creative liaison between chef Valeria Piccini and executive chef Michele Griglio. Their menu shines an innovative spotlight on the wonderful local cuisine, with suggestions from all parts of the globe. It ranges from the classic Tuscan dishes for strong stomachs such as tripe and lampredotto to more refined proposals like lobster tail on cream of topinambour and mandarin. The desserts, too, are a joy for both eyes and palate, in particular their original take on tiramisù.
Il Conventino a Marignolle
Savini Tartufi Truffle Restaurant
Gourmet Restaurant
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Michelin-starred restaurants
Bottega del Buon Caffè
Il Palagio
In addition to the historic and well established Enoteca Pinchiorri, with its prestigious three Michelin stars, there are seven other Florentine restaurants that have been awarded one star. Let’s enjoy them together. By Sophia Bertoli
Borgo San Jacopo c/o Hotel Lungarno Borgo San Jacopo, 62/r T: 055 281661 www.borgosanjacopo.com Overlooking the banks of the Arno, with a picture postcard view of Ponte Vecchio, the restaurant Borgo San Jacopo is perfect for a romantic evening. In this case the winning recipe is one that blends creativity, tradition and quality ingredients (lamb in sea water or Bresse rooster and octopus are an example of this), all washed down with wines chosen from a cellar of 900 labels. You can opt for the tasting menu (the potato-based one is unmissable) or à la carte. Bottega del Buon Caffè Lungarno Benvenuto Cellini, 69/r T: 055 5535677 www.borgointhecity.com/it/la-bottegadel-buon-caffe Zero food miles products gathered from the organic vegetable garden that the restaurant possesses in the Florentine countryside, meat reared by local farms and fresh fish. These are the strong points of the Bottega del Buon Caffè. On the Lungarno, in the shadow of the medieval Tower of San Niccolò, chef Antonello Sardi proposes a cuisine based on the use of seasonal ingredients, with a predilection for herbs and spices to bring out the flavours. The seasonal tasting menus include gems such as amberjack served in three ways (tartare, ’ventresca’, fillet) or home-made cappelletti with pigeon, butter and thyme.
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Enoteca Pinchiorri Via Ghibellina, 87 T: 055 242757 enotecapinchiorri.it How do you manage to be honoured with three Michelin stars, the highest recognition, which is only achieved by a hundred restaurants worldwide? In the case of the Enoteca Pinchiorri, it comes from the winning combination of prime quality raw materials, the search for innovation, yet without forgetting the territory’s (great) culinary tradition, obsessive attention to every detail and an unrivalled wine menu, which includes highly prized labels, along with others that are little known but equally interesting. Then we can add the fact that the restaurant is located inside the 18th-century Palazzo Jacometti-Ciofi and that its desserts are a delight for the senses. Il Palagio c/o Four Seasons Hotel Firenze Borgo Pinti, 99 T: 055 2626450 www.ilpalagioristorante.it Inside the Hotel Four Seasons, in a sophisticated environment with tables both indoors and outdoors, Il Palagio bases itself on a culinary proposal that looks to the Italian and regional tradition with a touch of modernity, as in the terrine of foie gras with Vin Santo gelée or cheese and pepper cavatelli with red shrimps and baby squid. Chef Vito Mollica offers a menu that is a symphony of flavours, raw materials and colours, at times
venturing far beyond the confines of Tuscany with dishes based on truffle, wagyu beef or three kinds of caviar. The wine menu includes more than 400 labels, 50 of which also served by the glass. La Leggenda dei Frati in Villa Bardini (Costa San Giorgio) Costa S. Giorgio, 6/a T: 055 0680545 www.laleggendadeifrati.it Inside the Villa Bardini museum complex in Costa San Giorgio is the one-star restaurant La Leggenda dei Frati. A breathtaking view over Florence and across vineyards at the rear, these are just the cherry on the cake of a creative culinary proposal, which in this case too draws its inspiration from the local tradition, with a propensity for quality meat (the boiled sausages and ’soppressata’ are self-produced), but also for vegetables picked directly from the restaurant’s own vegetable and herb garden and for the hand-made bread using flour from ancient grains. Ora d’Aria Via dei Georgofili 11/r T: 055 20016 9 www.oradariaristorante.com An hour of air to escape from culinary boredom. We don’t know if the owner had this in mind when he gave this name to his restaurant, just a stone’s throw from Ponte Vecchio, but it certainly gives that impression. Tuscan chef Marco Stabile is playing at home with dishes that are a reminder of granny’s recipes but tending towards a more creative contemporary style. Lovers of strong flavours can delight in dishes such as soft-crisp piglet or pigeon cooked in three ways. For lunch the choice of the "tapas" formula allows you to try a selection of small portions of gourmet dishes. The wine cellar boasts Tuscan wines, but also prized Italian and French labels and a highly select menu of beers.
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Ora d’Aria
Borgo San Jacopo
Winter Garden by Caino c/o Hotel Saint Regis Piazza Ognissanti, 1 T: 055 27163770 www.wintergardenbycaino.com Steeped in the fin-de-siècle atmosphere of the Hotel Saint Regis Florence, the Winter Garden by Caino has come about from the creative liaison between chef Valeria Piccini and executive chef Michele Griglio. Their menu brings the territory’s great cuisine back to the limelight in an innovative way, with elements from every part of the globe, ranging from classic Tuscan dishes for strong stomachs such as tripe and lampredotto to more refined proposals, such lobster tail on topinambour and mandarin cream. Also the desserts, particularly the ’Diversamente Tiramisù’, are a joy for the eyes and the taste buds.
Winter Garden by Caino
La Leggenda dei Frati
Enoteca Pinchiorri
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Historic cellars for foodies Florence’s cantine, where in the past the well to do kept their wine, salumi and meats, haven’t lost their vocation as custodians of fine taste. The majority, with dining rooms located beneath street level, are still called “buca”, although some have become proper restaurants, with menus (and prices) more suited to international visitors, while others still offer simple, authentic Florentine home (C.Z.) cooking. know quality doesn’t come cheap. www.bucalapi. com. Via del Trebbio 1/r. T: 055 213768. Buca Mario - For years ordinary folk have rubbed shoulders with famous names beneath the bare brick ceilings of Buca Mario to enjoy simple, genuine Florentine cuisine (although you can still request a private room for up to ten people in classic 16th-century Florentine style). The bistecca alla fiorentina is excellent, as is the ribollita or pappardelle with Maremma boar ragù. www.bucamario.com. Piazza degli Ottaviani, 16/r T: 055 214179.
Buca dell’Orafo
Antica Mescita San Niccolò - Ever wanted to eat lunch in a 1000 AD Romanesque crypt? In Florence you can, at the Antica Mescita San Niccolò, which also used to serve as a customs post for wine originating from Chianti. Naturally, the wine is excellent and predominately Tuscan and the food also reflects the season and the local territory, with dishes such as cold cuts and mixed cheeses, ribollita, bistecca alla fiorentina and lampredotto, to name just a few. www.osteriasanniccolo.it. Via San Niccolò, 60/r. T: 055 2342836. Buca Lapi - Buca Lapi is one of Florence’s oldest eating places. Crafted out of the wine cellars of the Renaissance Palazzo Antinori, it still preserves traces of over a century of history thanks to the meticulous restoration of the internal frescoes. Buca Lapi is particularly popular with lovers of the real fiorentina, but the other local Tuscan dishes are worth trying too, such as croutons, ribollita or wild boar with polenta. The bill won’t be particularly easy on the pocket, especially if you go for the steak, but as we
Lungarno23 In the splendid setting of Lungarno Torrigiani, this restaurant is famous for its Chianina meat hamburgers, which are certified with the I.G.P. mark and come from small local farms. Forget the image of fast food, because here the hamburger is accompanied by fresh ingredients, hand-made sesame seed bread, freshly fried potatoes and browned onions. €€. www.lungarno23.it. Lungarno Torrigiani, 23. T: 055 2345957. Map G6
L’Ortone Situated in the emerging San Ambrogio foodie district, opposite the charming street market, the menu is based on typical Tuscan dishes, with a focus on traditional first courses and grilled 58 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I J U N E 2018
Buca Poldo - A few yards from Piazza della Signoria and Ponte Vecchio, Buca Poldo serves characteristic Tuscan dishes including ribollita, pappa al pomodoro, fiorentina and boar stew, as well as a few forays into other regional cuisines. Although the majority of the courses are meat based, some fish dishes are also available. The kitchen is open on two sides, so that diners can watch the chefs at work. www.bucapoldo.com. Chiasso degli Armagnati, 2/R. T: 055.239.6578.
Buca San Giovanni Fiaschetteria Nuvoli - Just a few steps from Piazza Duomo is an obligatory destination for anyone who has ever wondered what Florence’s old wine cellars were really like in the past. Open from 8.30 in the morning until evening, it serves typical Tuscan specialities such as chicken liver croutons, cold cuts, tagliatelle al ragù, fried chicken or brains, ribollita, pappa col pomodoro and roast porchetta. There is also a vast choice of Tuscan wines, also available for aperitifs. Piazza dell’Olio, 15/r. T: 055 239 6616. Ristorante Buca dell’Orafo - A few yards from Ponte Vecchio, in an old goldsmith’s workshop inside the walls of a 13th century palace, is the restaurant Buca dell’Orafo. Traditional Tuscan dishes and menus that vary depending on the season testify to the quality of the ingredients. Don’t miss the ribollita, the maltagliati (flat, irregular offcuts of pasta), autumn mushrooms and taglierini with fresh spring peas. www.bucadellorafo.com. Via dei Girolami, 28/r. T: 055 213619.
Buca San Giovanni Buca San Giovanni is another of Italy’s historic restaurants. Originally the sacristy of the nearby Baptistery of Saint John opposite Florence cathedral, it was also the Rosicrucian masons’ secret initiation venue and countless notables from Florence and elsewhere have enjoyed a meal under its ancient vaults. There is no lack of classic dishes such as ossobuco alla Fiorentina (oxtail) and stracotto al Chianti (beef braised in Chianti), but the cuisine also stretches to other Italian regional specialities, such as bucatini all’amatriciana, spaghetti alla carbonara or linguine al pesto. www.bucasangiovanni.it. Piazza San Giovanni, 8. T: 055 287612 Buca Poldo
specialities, including of course the fiorentina. If you want to try something more adventurous you can’t go wrong with the pork liver confit with kale and Boretto onions. €€. www.lortone.it. Piazza Lorenzo Ghiberti 87/r. T: 055 234 0804. Map L4
Maccheroncino (Il) Those who don’t eat meat in Florence might encounter a few difficulties, but luckily there are also some excellent fish restaurants. Il Maccheroncino is a small seafood bistro located outside the tourist circuits, in the Rifredi neighbourhood. Fish dishes according to availability and typical products of the cuisine of Le Marche are prepared here with fresh and seasonal ingredients. €€. www.ilmaccheroncino.it.
Via Reginaldo Giuliani, 43/r. T: 388 7575928. Off Map
Marione Trattoria The atmosphere of an old-fashioned trattoria in the historic centre of Florence. Here it is possible to taste the typical dishes of Tuscan cuisine surrounded by barrel vaults and baked brick floors. Ribollita, taglierini with truffle, bistecca alla fiorentina and Tuscan cured meats are among the most popular dishes. If you go at the weekend it is advisable to book in advance, because there is usually a long queue of people waiting outside. €€. www.casatrattoria.com/trattoria-marione. Via della Spada 27/r. T: 055 214756. Map E3
DINING Opera
The “fiorentina”
Situated inside the Grand Hotel Adriatico, a few steps from Santa Maria Novella Station, the Opera restaurant offers dishes from both the Italian and the typical Florentine and Tuscan culinary traditions. In a relaxed and elegant atmosphere, with a music background of the most important operas, you can taste tortelli,tagliata, steak alla Fiorentina and the traditional Florentine dessert ’zuccotto’. Its wine cellar deserves a special mention. Open 7.30pm-10.30pm; closed on Sun. €€. www.hoteladriatico.it. Via Maso Finiguerra, 9. T: 055 294447. Map C2
Osteria Badalì
Buca Mario
Bistecca alla fiorentina is one of the most iconic dishes in Florence cuisine. But be careful: to recognize the original and tell it apart from the hundreds of impostors, there are a few tips you need to know. Cooking a “fiorentina” is a genuine ritual with unwritten rules that the visitor needs to know to avoid falling foul f the restaurant owner, paying over the odds and to make sure they get the real thing. WHAT. This succulent steak is obtained from a specific cut of a young Chianina cow, a part of the loin near the backbone which has a T-bone in the middle. It should be grilled at a very high temperature, so that a fine crust forms rapidly on the meat. All the flavour of this dish depends on the cooking: the meat must be brown on the outside but red, soft and juicy on the inside, hot, but not cooked through. This is the first vital rule: a fiorentina must be eaten rare. HOW. It should also be at least 3 or 4 cms thick, and weigh between 1.2 kg and 1.5 kgs, although bigger steaks are easily available. And here is another sore point. At a restaurant you pay for a fiorentina by weight. An average price to be sure of getting the real thing is around 50 euros a kilo. WITH. The traditional accompaniment is usually cannellini beans, washed down with a glass of Chianti. WHERE. Here are four restaurants where you can’t go wrong: Il Latini (www. illatini.com), Buca Lapi (www.bucalapi. com), Da Burde (www.vinodaburde.com) and Perseus (www.casatrattoria.com/ ristorante-perseus-firenze). (C.Z.)
Located in the heart of a rather quiet district, San Niccolò. A culinary proposal that revisits the traditions of the past, all about long cooking times and essentials, starting with the study of old cooking texts found on the second-hand book stalls and based above all on homemade pasta and traditional soups, as well as pork products. €€. www.badaliosteria.it. Via dei Renai 11/r. T: 055 2264422. Map H6
Touch Bistrò Toscano Three young entrepreneurs who met over the hobs of the hotelier institute have made their dream a reality by opening this bistro that favours the use of seasonal ingredients selected from the nearby market of Sant’Ambrogio in the neighbourhood of the same name. The menu, which gives a touch of freshness to the Tuscan tradition, proposes, among other things, ravioli di ossobuco, fried egg and fagioli all’uccelletto, but also monkfish and squid. €€. touchflorence.com. Via di Mezzo 42/r. T:055 2466150. Map I3
Tuscani 3 (I) If you love “ciccia” (which is what Tuscans call red meat), you must not miss this steakhouse and delicatessen that is very famous in the city. Located in the heart of the historic centre, a few steps from Piazza della Repubblica, it obviously offers the typical bistecca alla fiorentina but also selections of Tuscan pork, cured meat boards or steak tartare and hamburger made rigorously with Chianina meat. €€. http://ituscani3.com.Via Dante Alighieri 18/r.T: 055 285356. Map F4
Zeb Just moments away from Piazzale Michelangelo and the Giardino delle Rose, Zeb - highlighted by the Michelin Guide - serves a host of traditional Tuscan dishes such as cappellacci, tripe, lampredotto, meat balls and stuffed rabbit. A tiny place, the diners eat at the bar, like a delicatessen (actually, its former identity). There is a large selection of Italian wines, with a special focus on small local producers. €€. www.zebgastronomia. com. Via San Miniato, 2. T: 055 2342864. Map H6
INTERNATIONAL & ETHNIC CUISINE Koko Sophisticated chic and fine Japanese cuisine off the main tourist circuits. Besides the classic raw fish dishes (vast selection of tartare, carpacci, sushi and sashimi) Koko’s particular speciality is teppanyaki – various ingredients cooked on an iron griddle. In the private room guests can also dine on tatami. €€€€. www.kokorestaurant.it. Piazza F. Ferrucci, 4/5 r. T: 055 6587428. Off Map
Momoyama One of Florence’s historic Japanese restaurants, where alongside the classic sushi and sashimi there are rolls with creative combinations, soups, raw meats and fish, chicken teriyaki, udon and other hot dishes, in the tradition of the Rising Sun. Located over the Arno in the cool San Frediano district, on weekdays at lunchtime it turns into a noodle bar. €€€€. www.ristorantemomoyama.it. Borgo S. Frediano, 10. T: 055 291840. Map D4
Rooster Firenze
NEW OPENING A new arrival in the Rooster family, which already boasts one Americanstyle bar in the city. The concept is that of the restaurant/cocktail bar, just a few steps from Piazza della Repubblica, serving classic American meals such as hamburgers, ribs and BBQ, using prime Tuscan ingredients, preferably organically sourced. €. www.roosterfirenze.com. Via Porta Rossa, 63/r. T:055 2645006. Map F4
PIZZA O’Munaciello Housed in a 17th-century monastery in the historic Santo Spirito quarter, O’Munaciello recreates the atmosphere of a Naples street, complete with hanging washing and masks typical of Neapolitan Commedia dell’arte. Besides wood oven pizzas, here you can try other traditional Campania dishes, with products from small producers and consortiums situated along the coast. Every Wednesday night there’s live music (Neapolitan). €. www.munaciello.com. Via Maffia 31/r. T: 055 287198. Map D5
Pizza Man Right in the city centre, this colourful Neapolitan school pizzeria with a fun atmosphere does gluten-free and 100% vegan pizzas as well as the traditional variety. Now those with a food intolerance or special dietary needs don’t have to go without a tasty pizza. €. www.pizzaman.it. Via dell’Agnolo 105/107r. T: 055 2480200. Map H4
Pizzaiuolo (Il) Just steps from the Sant’ Ambrogio market, this is one of Florence’s oldest pizzerias. Here again the pizza is Neapolitan: wood oven cooked, with quality in-season toppings, mostly sourced from Campania. The rest of the menu also follows Neapolitan tradition, with first courses of fish and local desserts such as babà and pastiera. €. www. ilpizzaiuolo.it. Via dei Macci, 113/r. T: 055 241171. Map I3
Pizzeria Spera One of Florence’s favourite pizzeria’s even won the world’s pizza championship a few years ago. This simple and intimate little place just outside the old centre serves a light crispy pizza with a choice of different types of bread dough and a full range of quality toppings. Excellent value for money. €. www.pizzeriaspera.it. Via della Cernaia, 9/r. T: 055 495286. Off Map
Santarpia In a room decorated with blue and brown handpainted tiles, the wood oven turns out pizzas made with choice, slow-rising flours, tomatoes from Vesuvius and mozzarella from Campania cheese makers. All accompanied by craft beers or wines from small producers. €. www.santarpia.biz. Largo Pietro Annigoni, 9/c.T: 055245829. Map L3
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FLORENTINE FOOD TERMS ’Lampre…’ what’s that? Florence has a multitude of culinary specialities of peasant origin that are still very popular in the city today. Some are so niche as to be unknown outside Florence, let alone to foreigners. So we’ve decided to put together a glossary of Florentine food terms to help you find your way among the soups, animal parts you never thought you could eat and distinctive eateries. By Chiara Zaccarelli Buca Lapi
BUCA No, this is not something to eat, but somewhere you are likely to find all the foods listed above. Buche were the underground wine cellars of Florence’s wealthier homes. Today many have been converted into basement taverns, often conserving the original stone vaulted ceilings. This is where you’ll find the most authentic Tuscany country cooking, often accompanied by a flask of wine. A rather rustic environment with a warm and friendly atmosphere where you can go just for a glass of the simple house wine (see page 58). CANTUCCI This is one of the best-known cake recipes in Tuscan cuisine. The finger-shaped almond biscuits are made by slicing up a long roll of baked dough while still hot. The dough is made with flour, sugar, eggs, butter and raw almonds, not toasted or shelled. Tuscans normally dunk their ’cantucci’ in a fortified local wine called Vin Santo made from dried grapes. You can find them in any bakery or local foods shop. CIBREO A dish for strong stomachs, Cibreo is a typical main course of Florentine “poor cuisine” containing liver, chicken hearts, crests, eggs, lemon juice and onion. Even though presented like that it seems to be an inauspicious mixture, it is famous for having been one of the favourite dishes of Caterina de’ Medici, who attempted - unsuccessfully
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- to export it to France and it seems she was so fond of it that it gave her indigestion a number of times. LAMPREDOTTO This is Florentine street food par excellence. But watch out, it’s not for weak stomachs. Actually it’s a cow’s fourth stomach, known as the ’abomaso’, cooked in a herb broth and most commonly served in a panino soaked in the broth or topped with the local parsleybased green sauce. Historically a poor man’s dish, it is still very popular in Florence today thanks to the numerous open-air kiosks known as "lampredottai", doing a roaring trade with Florentines as well as tourists who can’t wait to try this speciality, accompanied by the obligatory glass of wine. PAPPA COL POMODORO On the face of it this is just another variant of bread and tomatoes. But until you’ve tried this soup made of stale bread (unsalted), tomatoes, garlic, basil, extra virgin Tuscan olive oil, salt and pepper, you’ll never guess how good it is. Everyone loves this tasty, genuine dish, including the kids. So much so there’s even a popular children’s song all about it. RIBOLLITA Another delicious country dish typical of Florence and the whole of central Tuscany is ribollita, a soup made of stale bread, kale and beans (borlotti, toscanelli or cannellini).
’Ribollita’ literally means boiled several times. The name derives from the fact that in the old days peasants used to make a large pot and serve it, heated up, over a number of days, each time tastier than before. SCHIACCIATA This simple focaccia baked in a wood oven and dressed with olive oil and salt is a great favourite with Florentines, who eat it on its own or stuffed with salumi and cheeses, either as a quick lunch or substantial snack. Again, like many traditional Florentine recipes, it is based on a horror of wasting any left over bread dough. In Florence you’ll find it at any baker’s, but of course everyone has their own preference: soft and well oiled, crisp and salty, or made with ancient grains. Just try it to decide which is your favourite!
Ribollita
ADVERTORIAL
CIBREO RISTORANTE A restaurant that moves to the rhythm of the seasons: from tomato sauce in summer to cabbage and garlic dips in winter, since 1979 the focal point of Cibreo’s fare has been an array of full-flavour historic dishes. Outstanding wine list. The homely atmosphere of the dining room and friendly service are a vital part of the reason the restaurant has become such an institution in Florence. Closed on Monday.
www.cibreo.com Via del Verrocchio, 8/r. T: 055 2341100.
L’ORTONE L’Ortone is in Piazza Ghiberti, opposite the charming Sant’Ambrogio street market. The menu draws inspiration from Tuscan cuisine (painstakingly revisited) and offers a wide choice of antipasti, first courses and grilled specialities, including of course the bistecca alla fiorentina. Opened in 2014, it has always relied on young but expert and professional staff. A good mix of elegance and sobriety. Open daily.
www.lortone.it Piazza L. Ghiberti, 87/r. T: 055 2340804.
OLIO In the historic Palazzo Capponi, at the heart of the old d’Oltrarno quarter, Olio presents itself as an innovative and stylish outlet for fine wines and oils and gastronomy in general. Whether for a quick snack or business lunch, a theme evening or everyday shop for fresh products, the bistrot provides a distinctive and sophisticated atmosphere. Closed on Monday.
www.oliorestaurant.it Palazzo Capponi – Via Santo Spirito, 4. T: 055 2658198.
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ENTERTAINMENT
Flying over a unique panorama Let yourselves be enchanted by full panoramic views of Tuscany’s most enchanting sites with hot-air balloon tours by Balloon in Tuscany. By Giulia Minero
I
t may be difficult to visit all the main places of interest in Tuscany if you have little time available. If you happen to only be in Florence for a weekend, why not opt for a panoramic tour from a different perspective, perhaps in a hot-air balloon? Balloon in Tuscany, a company recognised by the Associazione Aerostatica Toscana, offers its guests itineraries lasting between 45 and 90 minutes flying over some of the region’s most unmissable destinations, including cities of art and charming landscapes. Various launch points – located in Florence, Siena and San Gimignano, as well as in the heart of the Chianti hills – enable you to personalize
your itinerary to the maximum, at the same time enjoying the exhilaration of flight, the beauty of unprecedented scenery and the discovery of historical and cultural landmarks guided by pilots who are experts on the locations. The slow movement of the hot-air balloon makes Balloon in Tuscany tours ideal for photography lovers, especially in the early light of dawn, when old castles, Renaissance Tuscan villas, ancient towns, towers, water courses and vineyards are tinges with countless delicate shades. Thanks to the different sizes of the baskets, the hot-air balloons can host from 4 to 10 passengers, but they are also available for romantic flights for couples, perhaps to
The ideal perspective to surprise with splendid photos
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celebrate an important event surrounded by a unique atmosphere. >> For information on itineraries and bookings, visit www.balloonintuscany.com
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT FLORENCE.WHEREITALIA.COM
APERITIVI Chiaroscuro Opened in 1999 as a place to celebrate coffee, Florentines today are attracted by the original and genuine snacks. Coffee, hot chocolate and aperitifs served in a popular bar-cafe furnished with a retro touch. Until 9.30pm. www.chiaroscuro.it. Via del Corso, 36/r. T: 055 214247. Map G3
Easy living
Rooftop terrace with view of Ponte Vecchio. www. signorvino.com. Via de’ Bardi, 46/r. T: 055 286258. Map F5
or Via dello Sprone, 5/r. (Santo Spirito district). T: 055 0457163. Map E5
Three Sixty
“The right food from the right places” is the motto of this little restaurant where the quality and traceability of the ingredients is the holy grail. An original and genuine light lunch, with the option of half portions. Tuscan street food and fast food, including lampredotto and pecorino, chianina and croutons, besides pasta and soups. 11am till midnight. Intimate bistrot in the Santa Croce district. www.foodyfarm.it. Corso dei Tintori, 10/r. T: 055 242327. Map H5
From May to September the Grand Hotel Minerva, next to Santa Maria Novella, opens its magnificent panoramic terrazza with swimming pool to outside guests. Aperitifs from 7pm. www.grandhotelminerva. com. Piazza di Santa Maria Novella. T: 055 27230. Map E2
Better known to Florentines as the “spiaggina” (little beach), its location is quite singular: this strictly summer-only bar is built right on the river-bed of the Arno, opposite Torre San Niccolò, from where patrons can enjoy a leisurely aperitif with a stunning view of Ponte Vecchio, often with live music. There is always a cooling breeze, a big plus in a sweltering Florence summer. www.easylivingfirenze.it. Piazza G. Poggi. T: 055 2341112. Map I6
Zoe
Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura
Ditta Artigianale
The style of one of the world’s favourite fashion brands, a star chef and an incomparable location, surrounded by Florentine art. Popular at any hour, aperitifs are a particularly draw. www.gucci.com. Piazza della Signoria, 10. T: 055 75927038. Map F4
Il Locale Ideal at any time of day, but perfect for aperitifs, located in a small street not far from the Duomo. Hanging garden, lounge bar, cantina and intimate snugs, all beautifully restored. Exquisite nibbles and excellent wine list. www.localefirenze.it. Via delle Seggiole, 6. T: 055 9067188. Map G3
Cocktails and apericena accompanied by hookah, in a bar with essential modern furnishings and soft lighting. For years a favourite with the younger crowd, always a lively atmosphere in the trendy San Niccolò district. www.facebook.com/zoebarfirenze. Via dei Renai, 13. T: 055 243111. Map H6
BRUNCH Founder Francesco Sanapo finished sixth in a contest held in Melbourne in 2013 involving competitors from 60 countries to find the world’s best coffee barista. Back in Florence, he opened this bistrot which, besides the exceptional coffee, serves a brunch menu (from 9am to 3.30pm) ranging from Greek yogurt and crudités to bacon and French toast. Designer atmosphere. www.dittaartigianale.it. Via dei Neri, 32/r. (Santa Croce district). • T: 055 2741541
Foody Farm
Odeon Bistrot Burgers, brunch and aperitifs in this beautiful little restaurant with a very elegant exterior, white columns and vaulted ceiling. Open each day from 8.30 in the morning till 3 at night, for snacks and traditional Tuscan dishes as well as an exceptional wine list. City centre, next door to its namesake cinema. www.odeonbistro.it. Piazza degli Strozzi, 8/r. T: 055 215654. Map E4
Procacci This delicatessen founded in 1885 has become an institution, and not only in Florence, especially for its truffle-based specialities and impeccable selection of wines. Combines a gourmet food shop and wine bar in a relaxing atmosphere, with delicious snacks to eat in. 10am till 9pm (Sunday from 11am
Il Rifrullo In 1981 it was the first American Bar in Florence and it has never lost its appeal as a rendezvous for both Florentines and visitors, renovated several times but still a landmark. You can enjoy its rightly acclaimed aperitifs and abundant buffet in the garden in summer or in front of the fire in winter. www.ilrifrullo. com. Via San Niccolò, 55/r. T: 055 2342621. Map H6
Moyo Aperitifs and light dinner in a locale that offers international cuisine, cocktails and DJ set in a modern and stylish setting, a landmark of Florentine nightlife. www.moyo.it. T: 055 2479738. Via dei Benci, 23/r. Map H4
Rivalta Cafè Aperitifs, DJ set and Italian menu in a chic venue that combines modern furnishings and frescoed ceilings. The sight of the Arno at dusk always attracts a crowd. www.rivaltacafe.it. Lungarno Corsini 14/r. T: 055 289810. Map E4
Rooftop Bar La Terrazza Cocktails and champagne on an elegant patio furnished to contemporary taste, looking over at the medieval Consorti Tower. On the top floor of the Hotel Continentale. www.continentalehotel.com. Vicolo dell’Oro, 6. T: 055 27265987. Map F4
Se·Sto on Arno The Westin Excelsior opens its bar for aperitifs every evening from 7pm to 9pm. Two large terrazze provide a 360° view over the marvels of Florence. www. westinflorence.com. Piazza Ognissanti, 3. T: 055 27151. Map C3
Signorvino This wine bar on two floors offers Italian wines (more than 1500 labels, also to buy), coffee, aperitifs and snacks. Delicious Tuscan and other regional bites.
The Florentine Maggio Musicale
ADVERTORIAL
The Florentine Maggio Musicale [Musical May] is an important annual cultural event, which takes place in Florence in May and in the weeks that follow (this year the programme extends to mid-July). Established in 1933, the Maggio was Italy’s first musical festival and since then, with the exception of the forced hiatus during the Second World War, it has offered high-quality operas, concerts, dance shows and theatre events. The festival is associated with a resident orchestra, which in its history has had the honour of being conducted by the best maestros in the world. After Riccardo Muti, on the podium from 1969 to 1981, the orchestra and the festival now live under the artistic direction of Zubin Mehta. For the programme and further information: www.operadifirenze.it
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ENTERTAINMENT till 8pm). Historic venue in the heart of Florence. www.procacci1885.it. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 64/r. T: 055 211656. Map E3
Teatro del Sale Theatre-club-lounge-restaurant inspired by Florentine celebrity chef Fabio Picchi – formerly patron of the legendary Cibreo restaurant (see listing in “Dining”) – and co-founder, president and artistic director Maria Cassi. Every day from 12-noon it serves a highly original brunch of buffet food and hot snacks at a fixed price of 15 euros (20 euros on Saturday and Sunday). From Tuesday to Saturday (7.30pm-9pm), dinner with after-dinner show, both at a fixed price of 30 euros. www.teatrodelsale.com. Via dei Macci, 111/r. (Sant’Ambrogio district). T: 055 2001492. Map I3
CONCERT VENUES & THEATRES Teatro Comunale The Teatro Comunale di Firenze is the city’s largest theatre. Overall, it occupies approximately half a block between corso Italia, via Magenta and via Solferino. The main theatre has seating for around 1800, but also part of the complex is a foyer called the “Piccolo Teatro”, which can hold a little under 600 spectators. The name “Comunale” [Municipal] dates back to 1933, when the Florentine Maggio Musicale was established (see entry), but the theatre itself dates back to the second half of the 19th century. www.operadifirenze.it. Corso Italia, 16. T: 055 27791. Map B2
Teatro Verdi The largest "Italian-style" theatre in Tuscany is located in Florence, in the historic district of Santa Croce, and hosts all genres of performance. Inaugurated in 1854, since 2000 it has been owned by the Orchestra of Tuscany, which is based there. www. teatroverdifirenze.it. Via Ghibellina, 99. T: 055 212320. Map H4
Teatro Goldoni Inaugurated in 1817 in the presence of Ferdinand III of Habsburg-Lorraine, thanks to its proximity to Palazzo Pitti it soon became the court theatre. Oval-shaped, with 80 boxes distributed over four orders, the theatre experienced a period of abandonment. After a lengthy restoration, it returned to its original pomp in 1998, with a historical design by Italian director and actor Luca Ronconi. www.operadifirenze.it. Via Santa Maria, 15. T: 055 2779309. Map C6
Teatro del Maggio The Teatro del Maggio is in the centre, beside the old city walls, next to the historic Stazione Leopolda (see listing). The garden that welcomes visitors is Piazzale Vittorio Gui, named after the founder of the Stabile Orchestrale Fiorentina and the Florentine Maggio Musicale. Symphony concerts and operas are performed in a contemporary space in a large wood-covered hall. www.operadifirenze.it. Piazzale V. Gui, 1. Off Map
Stazione Leopolda Inaugurated in 1848, it was Florence’s first railway station: it was decommissioned, and today has become a sought-after venue for meetings, conferences and various events. A versatile, multifunctional space, it has its name associated with the recent history of Italy, being the venue of the event that launched the career of Florentine politician Matteo Renzi. www.stazione-leopolda. com. Viale Fratelli Rosselli, 5. T: 055 212622. Map A1
Visarno Arena It is located inside the Ippodromo Visarno racecourse, located in Florence in the Parco delle Cascine. Surrounded by greenery and with seating for 60,000, the area is the favourite venue for major open-air events. Active since 2015, it has already hosted, among others, concerts by David Gilmour, Massive Attack, Einsturzende Neubauten, Sting and Duran Duran, but also the 2015 and 2016
editions of World Refugees Day. www.visarnoarena. it. Parco delle Cascine (approx. two kilometres from the Central Station of Santa Maria Novella). Off Map
WELLNESS Bené SPA This 5-star luxury Villa Cora spa is found on the ground floor of Villino Eugenia and connected to the main hotel complex by an underground tunnel. It comprises a tepidarium, leisure area, small gym, sauna, hammam and three large private cabins for personalised treatments. The crowning glories are two prestigious partnerships: tailored face treatment products by beauty guru Sarah Chapman; and the body range from the historic Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, founded in Florence in 1612. www.villacora.it. Viale Machiavelli, 18. T: 055 228790. Off Map
Firenze Number Nine This 4-star spa presents itself as an “Urban Wellness Hotel” that claims to be “the only city centre spa under original 15th-century vaults.” A 400-square metre spa offering a full range of treatments, open every day, also to outside guests, though the under 16’s are not admitted. Very well known, among Florentines too, is the Arya Beauty & Comfort Zone, again linked to the hotel (but closed on Tuesdays). www.firenzenumbernine.com. Via dei Conti, 9. T: 055 293777. Map F3
Four Seasons SPA A Four Seasons standard spa right in the heart of Florence. Ten body treatment cabins, a spa suite, plus open-air pool. Exclusive treatments like the Chianti massage and Tuscan cypress scrub are just the start of your wellness journey. Treatments for teens and children also available. The supermodern fitness centre is located in the quiet of the Gherardesca Garden. www.fourseasons.com. Borgo Pinti, 99. T: 055 26261. Map L1
Golden Beauty & SPA This extremely stylish facility in the historic centre of Florence offers a Turkish bath, emotional showers, hydromassage, sauna and treatment zone plus expert care and advice. Part of the 5-star Golden Tower hotel, but also open to outside guests as the beauty centre annex every day from midday till 8pm. www.goldentowerhotel.it. Piazza Strozzi, 11. T: 055 287860. Map F4
Il Villino SPA A historic villa, completely renovated in 2014, the new Hotel Ville sull’Arno 5-star luxury boutique resort is very popular with Florentines. The Villino is a unique spa, studded with original details, luxury materials, and hand-made decorations by Florentine craftsmen, offering a wide range of treatments, from hydromassage to the ice cascade. www.planetariahotels.com. Lungarno C. Colombo, 1/3/5. T: 055 670971. Off Map
Ponte Vecchio Suites & SPA This 4-star boutique hotel, recently renovated, has a spa reserved for the exclusive use of the guests of each suite. www.pontevecchiosuites.com. Via De’ Belfredelli, 9. T: 0552 17379. Map E5
TEATRO DEL SALE Inaugurated in 2003, the Teatro is a cultural club, a place for socialization, relax and entertainment. Here you can savour the best of local and Tuscan flavours by the Cibreo cuisine. www.teatrodelsale.com
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San Firenze Suites & SPA The 4-star San Firenze Suites & SPA in the city centre, has an internal spa for private use, expressly designed for couples. Open winter and summer. www.sanfirenzesuites.com. Piazza di San Firenze, 3/A. T: 0552 85009. Map G4
ENTERTAINMENT
SPA VENUES IN TUSCANY
Bagni San Filippo
Bagni San Filippo A small town not far from the slopes of Mount Amiata, famous for millennia for its sulphur waters, which were used by the Etruscans, and for the white calcareous deposits that form the small, spectacular hot water falls (48 °C) of the Fosso Bianco. Unlike the wellbeing and spa treatment centre, access to this area is free of charge. Terme San Filippo, www.termesanfilippo. it. Via San Filippo, 23. T: 0577 872982. B&B Il Fosso Bianco, Via San Filippo, 22. T: 392 3449596. Bagni San Filippo (Siena). Bagno Vignoni This tiny ancient stone village has one unique and unforgettable characteristic: at its centre is Piazza delle Sorgenti, an ancient pool measuring 49x29 metres (not for bathing) where the spar waters are collected, gushing out at a temperature of 52 °C and shrouding the village in evocative steam during the cold months. Albergo Le Terme, www.albergoleterme.it. Piazza delle Sorgenti, 13. Bagno Vignoni di San Quirico d’Orcia (Siena). T: 0577 887150. Spa Resort Hotel Adler Thermae.
Bagno Vignoni
A region rich in natural thermal springs, Tuscany offers nothing but an embarrassment of choice from among the numerous structures spread out across the territory, particularly in the areas of Siena and Grosseto. In addition to the famous and historic Montecatini and Chianciano, full-blown health towns, there are more “discreet” structures, often associated with resorts, offering a different experience of relaxation and wellbeing. Here are some suggestions. (E.P.)
www.adler-thermae.com. Strada di Bagno Vignoni, 1. San Quirico d’Orcia (Siena). T: 0577 889001. Castello di Velona An 11th-century fortress transformed into a residential villa in the Renaissance, the castle - now a 5-star resort - is located on a hill overlooking the greenery of the Val d’Orcia. between Sant’Antimo and Montalcino. The indoor and outdoor swimming pools (and the bathrooms of some of the rooms) use water from a nearby thermal spring originating on Mount Amiata. Castello di Velona Resort Thermal SPA & Winery, www.castellodivelona.it. Località La Velona, Montalcino (Siena). T: 0577 839002. Grotta Giusti The spectacular Grotta Giusti, on the outskirts of Montecatini, is a natural cave that winds its way among stalactites and stalagmites to a stretch of crystal clear water, the temperatures of which vary from 27°C to 34°C. Above all mud therapy and balneotherapy are practised there in baths enriched with ozone to stimulate the
metabolism of the blood vessels. Grotta Giusti, www.grottagiustispa.com. Via Grotta Giusti, 1411 - Monsummano Terme (Pistoia). T: 0572 90771. San Casciano dei Bagni Classified among the “Most Beautiful Towns of Italy”, San Casciano stands on a hill immersed in the Siena countryside. The Bagno Grande and the Bagno Bossolo are ancient washtubs where it is possible to bathe freely, while there are indoor and outdoor baths, wellbeing treatments and a splendid resort at Fonteverde, sheltered by a magical garden with views of Mount Amiata. Fonteverde. www.fonteverdespa.com. Località Terme, 1 - San Casciano dei Bagni (Siena). T: 0578 57241. Saturnia - Cascate del Mulino Among the most beautiful free thermal baths in the world, the Cascate del Mulino are small natural pools supplied by small waterfalls that form a unique, unrepeatable environment. Next to them, the Terme di Saturnia complex has spring water pools, a wellbeing centre and a 5-star resort. Cascate del Mulino, www.cascate-delmulino.info. Terme di Saturnia Spa & Golf Resort, www.termedisaturnia.it. Località Follonata, Saturnia - Manciano (Grosseto). T: 0564 600111. Terme di Petriolo The thermal baths are sited on a natural spring in the Valley dell’Ombrone, along the course of the River Farma. The waters, rich in salts, gush out at a temperature of 43 °C and are traditionally used to treat various pathologies of the respiratory tracts. www. termedipetriolo.it. Strada Provinciale di Petriolo, Monticiano (Siena). Petriolo Spa Resort, www.atahotels.it/ hotel/petriolo-spa-resort. Località Bagni di Petriolo, Frazione Pari, Civitella Paganico (Grosseto). T: 0577 1606059.
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San Miniato al Monte A shimmering vision of elegance, the old Benedictine abbey has looked down on Florence from its heights for a thousand years, bestowing peace, wonder and a breathtaking view. By Elena Peverata
F
ar from the crowded city centre, on a high point with a magnificent romantic view, stands one of the most beautiful of Florence’s basilicas, San Miniato al Monte. The delicate facade of geometric motifs in white and green marble, a sublime expression of the Florentine Romanesque, is immediately recognisable at the top of a tall monumental staircase. Even more astonishing is the interior, where decorations in two-tone marble share the space alongside 14th-15th century frescoes, the sumptuous gilded mosaic in the apse, and the 13th-century inlaid pavement. At the end of the central nave is Michelozzo’s Renaissance Chapel of the Crucifix, in front of the crypt and raised presbytery. Ever since it was founded, in 1013, the church of San Miniato al Monte 66 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I J U N E 2018
has been wreathed in legends and mysteries associated with its special symbology, such as the recurrence of the number 5 in the decor and structures, or the great zodiac wheel marble inlay on the pavement in front of the central portal. Also worth a visit is the Sacristy decorated with a great fresco cycle on the Life of Saint Benedict by Spinello Aretino (1387) and the tranquil monumental cemetery, the Porte Sante. Since 1018 a small community of Benedictine monks have lived in the adjacent monastery (not open to visitors) where they run a pharmacy in which you can find herbal remedies and pastry products made by the friars. You reach San Miniato al Monte by the road climbing up from Piazzale Michelangelo. To immerse yourself in the near-mystic peace of the
place, come at 7 am (Mon-Sat) to take part in the morning lauds and mass, after which it is closed until 9.30 am. www.sanminiatoalmonte.it
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT FLORENCE.WHEREITALIA.COM ALL CONTRIBUTIONS RELATED TO MUSEUMS AND EVENTS ARE BY Elena Peverata Lifestyle & Culture Editor Where ® Italia
ATTRACTIONS & MONUMENTS Duomo and Cupola Completed in 1436, at the time the Duomo in Florence was the largest Christian church in the world. Today the religious building, whose official name is “Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore”, is third in terms of dimensions after St. Peter’s in Rome and St Paul’s Cathedral in London. The most important artists of the period participated in its creation (the bell tower is by Giotto), while the famous multi-coloured marble façade dates back to the 19th century. Brunelleschi’s Dome, still the tallest construction in the city, is a symbol known all over the world: it is possible to climb to the top (exclusively on foot) up its 463 steps. (See “Museums"). www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza del Duomo, 3/5-6. T: 055 2302885. Map F2
Battistero Located opposite the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, the Baptistery of St. John the Baptist is the building that completes the considerably striking appearance of the square. Its origins are uncertain, but its first official dating is at least in the 12th century. It is characterised by an octagonal plan, lined with a dome of eight segments, covered by a pyramid roof. The outside is decorated with white marble from Carrara and green marble from Prato, characteristics of the Florentine architecture of the Romanesque period. It has three famous doors, sumptuously decorated, and an interior that, with its marble and mosaics, is reminiscent of that of the Pantheon. Used in antiquity for the investiture of knights and poets, its praises are sung by Dante in the Divine Comedy. (See “Museums"). www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza di San Giovanni, 8. T: 055 2302885. Map F2
in the square are the Fountain of Neptune and a series of statues of Renaissance origin, representing one of the most important sculptural cycles in the world. The most famous is certainly Michelangelo’s David: the one on display in its original position is a copy, whereas the original is conserved in the Galleria dell’Accademia (see "Museums"). Map F4-G4
was built in 1565 by the great Florentine architect Giorgio Vasari. On display along the Corridor are over 1000 paintings created between the 17th and 19th centuries and an important collection of self-portraits by great artists including Filippo Lippi, Rembrandt, Velázquez, Delacroix and Ensor. www.uffizi.it. Piazzale degli Uffizi, 6. T: 055 294883. Map E6-E5-F5-G5
Palazzo Vecchio
Palazzo Pitti and Giardino di Boboli
Located in piazza della Signoria, today it is the seat of the Municipal Council of Florence. It is the finest synthesis of 14th-century civil architecture and is one of the best known civic buildings in the world. Its imposing façade, abounding in history, the charm of its magnificent courtyards and its precious interiors (see "Museums") make it a site visited daily by hundreds of people. www.museicivicifiorentini. comune.fi.it. Piazza della Signoria. T: 055 2768325. Map G4
Ponte Vecchio There has been a bridge at this point of the River Arno ever since before the year one thousand; yet, between floods and reconstructions, the official date of foundation of the current Ponte Vecchio is given as 1345. For the entire Middle Ages the bridge hosted greengrocers’, fishmongers’ and butchers’ shops, who used the river to dispose of their waste in a hurry. At the end of the 16th century, however, when it became the “noble” zone of the city, the goldsmiths and jewellers started to arrive, and they have been there uninterruptedly to this day. To celebrate this history, on prominent display on the bridge is a bust of Benvenuto Cellini, the greatest goldsmith of the Renaissance. Access is gained to the bridge between via Por Santa Maria and Lungarno degli Archibusieri and between Borgo San Jacopo and via de’ Guicciardini. Map F5
Corridoio Vasariano The Vasari Corridor is a raised walkway connecting Ponte Vecchio with Palazzo Pitti. It is a rather narrow passage the entrance to which is at the beginning of the second corridor of the Uffizi Gallery (see "Museums"); it then stretches along the Arno, over the Ponte Vecchio, finally arriving at Palazzo Pitti. It
The symbol of wealth and power, the building was inhabited by the Medici in the period of their maximum splendour, then by the Habsburg-Lorraines and, after the Unity of Italy, by the Savoy family. The original architecture dates back to the 15th century and “Pitti” is the surname of its first owner. The building is located Oltrarno (on the left bank of the river), at the foot of Boboli Hill. It is from the latter that the famous Boboli Gardens take their name; they are one of the most important examples of Italian-style gardens in the world and are considered a genuine open-air museum on account of their admirable architectural and landscaped layout and their collection of sculptures, attracting approximately 800 thousand visitors a year. Currently they are the site of four different museums: the Treasury of the Grand Dukes, the Palatine Gallery and the Royal Apartments, the Gallery of Modern Art and the Museum of Fashion and Costume (see "Museums"). They are connected to Forte di Belvedere (see "Museums"). www.uffizi.it/palazzo-pitti. Piazza de’ Pitti, 1. T: 055 294883. Map E6
Piazzale Michelangelo Piazzale Michelangelo is the most famous and appreciated panoramic point in Florence, with its views seen all over the world in million of postcards and reproductions. The design of the square dates back to 1869, when Florence was capital of Italy. Dedicated to the city’s most famous artist, the square has bronze copies of some of Michelangelo’s most famous sculptures. Access to the Piazzale can be gained by car, along the treelined Viale Michelangelo, or on foot, by climbing the monumental flight of steps known as the “Rampe del Poggi”, which start from piazza Poggi in the neighbourhood of San Niccolò. Map I7
FIRENZECARD
Campanile di Giotto 84.70 metres high and around 15 wide, a manifestation of 14th-century Florentine Gothic architecture, the Giotto’s bell tower is one of the four main components of the complex of Santa Maria del Fiore, in piazza del Duomo. Lined with white, red and green marble, like that adorning the Cathedral, the majestic square-based bell tower, designed by Giotto in 1334, can be visited by climbing no less than 414 stairs up to the top, from where you can enjoy extraordinary views of Brunelleschi’s Dome. www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza del Duomo. T: 055 2302885. Map F3
Piazza della Signoria This is the central square of Florence, the seat of civil power and social heart of the city. L-shaped, it is located at the centre of medieval Florence south of the Cathedral. Already important in the Roman Age, the square has been gradually enhanced over the centuries; facing onto it are Palazzo Vecchio (see entry), the splendid Loggia della Signoria, the Tribunale della Mercanzia, Palazzo Uguccioni and Palazzo delle Assicurazioni Generali. Also prominent
Firenzecard costs €72, allows access to 72 museums and is valid for 72 hours from the initial entry to a museum on the Circuit. It can be purchased online or from one of the authorised sales points in Florence. It includes: • 1 entry ticket + 1 exhibition supplement + 1 priority ticket for each museum on the Firenzecard circuit • Priority access to museums without needing to book • 72 hours available www.firenzecard.it
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San Miniato al Monte Not far from Piazzale Michelangelo, in via delle Porte Sante, stands the Abbey of San Miniato al Monte, a medieval religious building situated at one of the highest panoramic points in Florence. The most spectacular access is gained via the monumental flight of steps (which is not advisable, however, for those with problems walking). The outside of the church is decorated with green and white marble, typical of Florentine Romanesque, while a 12thcentury mosaic decorates the central part of the façade. The interior, which is unusual and of great beauty, boasts one of the city’s best conserved original floors. www.sanminiatoalmonte.it. Via delle Porte Sante, 34. T: 055 234 2731. Off Map
Mercato Centrale Built at the end of the 19th century in the period in which Florence was capital of Italy, the Central Market is a building of a certain architectural merit located between piazza del Mercato Centrale and via dell’Ariento, via Sant’Antonino and via Panicale. The project was entrusted to Giuseppe Mengoni, the architect of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele in Milan, who was inspired by Les Halles in Paris. Since 2014, on the first floor of the historic covered market there has been a complex containing dozens of small restaurants, leisure activities and street food options, and this has now become a point of reference for informal but good quality cuisine for both Florentines and tourists. www.mercatocentrale.it. Piazza del Mercato Centrale/Via dell’Ariento. T: 055 2399798. Map F1
Santa Croce Together with Santa Maria Novella, San Lorenzo and Santo Spirito, it is one of the “great basilicas”, a point of reference of the Franciscan order: a radiant example of Tuscan Gothic, it owes its sober appearance of wooden trusses and terracotta floors to Franciscan charisma. Giotto painted some of his great masterpieces here and the French writer Stendhal experienced that profound artistic agitation that has been known since then as the “Stendhal syndrome”. The basilica contains the monumental sepulchres of Michelangelo, Galileo and Machiavelli and for this reason was celebrated by the Italian romantic poet Ugo Foscolo as a temple
of “italic glories”. (See “Museums"). www. santacroceopera.it. Piazza Santa Croce, 16. T: 055 2466105. Map H4
Santa Maria Novella Together with Santa Croce, San Lorenzo and Santo Spirito, it is one of the “great basilicas”, a point of reference of the Dominican order. Its foundation dates back to the end of the 13th century but work on it continued for centuries, so the church, with its elegant façade by Leon Battista Alberti, is a harmonious synthesis of Gothic and Renaissance styles. The church of Santa Maria Novella hosts exceptional works of art by Masaccio, Giotto, Brunelleschi, Filippino Lippi, Domenico Ghirlandaio and Paolo Uccello. (See “Museums"). www.smn.it. Piazza Stazione, 4 - piazza Santa Maria Novella, 18. T: 055 219257. Map D2-E2
Santo Spirito Together with Santa Croce, San Lorenzo and Santa Maria Novella, it is one of the “great basilicas”, a point of reference of the Augustinian order. The church has given its name to the entire surrounding neighbourhood, “Borgo Santo Spirito”, located “Oltrarno”, that is, on the left bank of the river. A jewel of Renaissance architecture, the church was the last great project by Filippo Brunelleschi and conserves elegant and austere rationality in its architectural plan. In the interior there is also a wooden crucifix carved by a young Michelangelo. (See “Museums"). www.basilicasantospirito.it. Piazza Santo Spirito, 30. T: 055 210030. Map D5
San Lorenzo Together with Santa Croce, Santo Spirito and Santa Maria Novella, it is one of the “great basilicas” of Florence, founded, according to the tradition, by Saint Ambrose, the first bishop of Milan, in the fourth century AD: it is therefore one of the oldest churches in the city. Its current appearance, however, is the result of the last major reconstruction work that took place in the 15th century at the wishes of the Medici and under the direction of the great architect Filippo Brunelleschi. Its bare stone façade was intended to receive a rich marble decoration designed by Michelangelo, which unfortunately was never executed. The interior is a masterpiece, also embellished by sculptures
by Donatello of rare expressive intensity. (See “Museums"). www.operamedicealaurenziana.org. Piazza di San Lorenzo, 9. T: 055 216634-055 214042. Map F2
MUSEUMS & EXHIBITION SITES Basilica di San Lorenzo This is one of the “great basilicas” of Florence, the oldest (see "Monuments&Attractions"), the current appearance of which is the result of the radical renovation begun in 1418 by Giovanni di Bicci, founder of the Medici dynasty. The complex conserves key works by Brunelleschi, Donatello, Michelangelo, miniated codices, sacred goldsmithery and paintings from the 15th to the 20th century, and is structured into the Basilica (with the Old Sacristy and the Treasure Museum), the Medici Chapels (which form a separate museum, see the relative indications) with the New Sacristy and the Museum, in the Laurentian Library (see entry). Open Mon-Sat 10am-5pm. Sundays: from 1 March to 31 October 1.30pm-5.30pm. Closed: Sundays from 1 November to 29 February, 1 and 6 January, Easter, 10 and 15 August, 8 and 25 December. Full ticket price: Basilica €6, Basilica + Medici Library €8.50. www. operamedicealaurenziana.org. Piazza di San Lorenzo 9. T: 055 216634-214042. Map F2
Basilica di Santa Croce A splendid example of Tuscan Gothic (13th century), it owes its sober appearance, with wooden trusses and terracotta floors, to the Franciscan order. The Basilica, the cloisters, the Sacristy, the Pazzi Chapel and the Museum of Opera are all part of the visitors’ itinerary. Mention must be made in particular of the sepulchres of Michelangelo Buonarroti and Galileo Galilei, the masterpieces by Giotto (Bardi and Peruzzi Chapels, Baroncelli Polyptych), by Taddeo Gaddi (The Last Supper, The Tree of Life) by Donatello (The Annunciation, Crucifix, Saint Louis of Toulouse), by Agnolo Gaddi (Alberti and Castellani Chapels) and by Cimabue (the famous Crucifix). Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-5.30pm; Sun and holidays 2pm-5.30pm. Closed 1 January, Easter, 13 June, 4 October, 25-26 December. www.santacroceopera.it. Piazza Santa Croce, 16 (visitors’ entrance: Largo Bargellini). T: 055 2466105. Map I5
Biblioteca Marucelliana A precious archive of rare pieces established between the 17th and 18th centuries by Abbot Marucelli, it conserves 500,000 volumes, manuscripts and prints. The ancient reading rooms, including the magnificent and spectacular “Salone”, are visitable during opening hours or with a guided visit (by booking in advance). Open Mon-Thurs 8.30am-6pm, Fri 8.30am-4pm. Closed Sat-Sun, 1 and 6 January, Easter, 25 April, 1 May, 2 June, 24 June, 15 August and 2 weeks in the second half of August, 1 November, 8 and 25-26 December. www.maru.firenze.sbn.it. Via Cavour, 43-45. T: 055 2722200. Map G1
Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana
FORTE DI BELVEDERE The Forte di Belvedere dominating the Boboli Gardens with the Pitti Palace, in a lunette by Giusto Utens. The Flemish painter is remembered for the series of Medicean villas in lunette form that he painted for the third Grand Duke of Tuscany Ferdinando I, (1599–1602).
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Part of the museum complex of the Basilica di San Lorenzo (see entry), it is one of the finest examples of the architecture of Michelangelo. Commissioned by Pope Clement VII (a Medici) and completed at the wishes of Grand Duke Cosimo I in 1571, entry is gained by ascending the monumental staircase designed by Michelangelo and built by Bartolomeo Ammannati in 1559. The stained-glass windows were created by Flemish craftsmen from designs by the Vasarian school. The Library conserves approx. 11,000
MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS
Greek, Latin and Oriental manuscripts, often richly miniated, dating from the 5th to the 19th century, in addition to papyruses and rare print editions. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-1.30pm. Closed Sat, Sun and holidays. Full ticket price: Basilica + Medici Library €8.50. www.bmlonline.it. Piazza di San Lorenzo, 9. T: 055 2937911. Map F2
| SIGHTSEEING
Palazzo Pitti Museums
Cappella Brancacci The Church and the Convent of Santa Maria del Carmine, dating back to the mid-13th century, house the Brancacci Chapel, a masterpiece that is universally renowned for the frescos of the cycle of Scenes from the Life of St. Peter by Masaccio and Masolino da Panicale. Executed in 1425-1427, they were left unfinished and were eventually completed by Filippino Lippi between 1481 and 1482. Access is permitted to the chapel by groups of a maximum of 30 people and the stay time is 30 minutes. You are advised to book (T: 055 2768224-8558). Open Mon-Sat 10am-5pm, Sun and holidays: 1pm-5pm. Closed on Tues and 1 January, 7 January, Easter, 16 July, 15 August, 25 December. Full ticket price: WedFri €6; Sat-Sun-Mon: Brancacci Chapel+Fondazione Salvatore Romano €7. www.museicivicifiorentini. comune.fi.it. Piazza del Carmine, 14. T: 055 2768224558-2382195. Map C5
Cappelle Medicee Since 1869 the Medici Chapels have been a state museum, but their history is closely associated with that of the Basilica di San Lorenzo, of which they are part (see entry). The museum consists of the New Sacristy, designed and conceived as regards its sculptural furniture by Michelangelo, the Chapel of the Princes, a monumental mausoleum built using semi-precious stones, the Crypt, where the Medici Grand Dukes and their relatives are buried, and the Lorenese Crypt, which, in addition to the remains of the Lorena family, contains the funeral monument to Cosimo the Elder, founder of the dynasty. The museum also holds a part of the Treasure of the Basilica: sacred vestments and magnificent shrines. Open daily 8.15am-1.50pm; from 9 April to 4 November 8.15am-5pm. Closed: 1st, 3rd, 5th Monday and 2nd, 4th Sunday of the month, 1 January, 1 May, 25 December. Full ticket price: €8. www. bargellomusei.beniculturali.it/musei/2/medicee | www.operamedicealaurenziana.org. Piazza Madonna degli Aldobrandini, 6. T: 055 282984. Map F2
Cenacolo di Sant’Apollonia In around 1447 Andrea del Castagno frescoed the back wall of the refectory of the ancient Benedictine monastery of Sant’Apollonia (1339) with The Last Supper, The Crucifixion, The Deposition and The Resurrection. Other outstanding frescos by Andrea del Castagno and paintings from the monastery are also on display in the museum. Open daily 8.15am-1.50pm. Closed 1st, 3rd, 5th Saturday and Sunday of the month e 1 January, 1 May, 15 August, 25 December. Free entry. www.polomusealetoscana. beniculturali.it. Via XXVII Aprile, 1. T: 055 2388608/610. Off Map
Fondazione Palazzo Strozzi Palazzo Strozzi is one of the finest examples of private architecture of the Renaissance and a dynamic cultural centre that hosts international level exhibitions, ranging from ancient art to the Renaissance, to contemporary art. Always present are an exhibition devoted to Palazzo Strozzi, the café and the museum shop, which looks out onto the Renaissance courtyard, where concerts, performances, contemporary art installations and theatrical plays are organised. Open daily and
A palace for three dynasties, this extraordinary building (see Attractions&Monuments) is located in the Oltrarno, at the foot of Boboli Hill. The famous Boboli Gardens, which are the park of the palace, a genuine open-air museum (see Museo Giardini di Boboli), take their name from this hill. Palazzo Pitti currently contains four different museums. Treasures of the Grand Dukes (ground floor and mezzanine) Conserved in what were the summer apartments of the Medici family are the precious “Treasures of the Medici”: vases made of semi-precious stones, rock crystals, ambers and ivories, the exceptional collection of Oriental porcelains; there is also the silverware of the so-called “Treasure of Salzburg”, an important collection of jewels created between the 17th and 20th centuries, and a significant section dedicated to contemporary jewellery. Palatine Gallery and Monumental Apartments (noble floor) The 14 sumptuously furnished rooms of the Royal Apartments offer a fascinating blend of styles telling of the daily lives and tastes of the various periods and families that lived there. The “Quadreria”,
the Picture Gallery, established between the 18th and 19th centuries by the Lorena family, includes the world’s largest concentration of works by Raphael, as well as paintings by Titian, Tintoretto, Caravaggio and Rubens. Gallery of Modern Art (second floor) Today the sumptuous environments that were once the residence of the Lorena family house paintings and sculptures, mostly Italian, from Neoclassicism to the 1930s, with an important group of paintings by the Macchiaioli school. Museum of Fashion and Costume (Palazzina della Meridiana) This museum possesses a stock of six thousand items, including ancient clothing, theatrical costumes and fashion accessories from the 18th century to today, in addition to underwear, jewels and costume jewellery. Included among the costumes are the 16th-century burial clothes of Cosimo I de’ Medici, Eleonor of Toledo and their son. Open Tues-Sun 8.15am-6.50pm. Closed on Mondays, 1 January, 1 May, 25 December. Museum full ticket price: €16 (1 Mar/31 Oct)/€10 (1 Nov/28 Feb). www.uffizi.it/ palazzo-pitti. Piazza de’ Pitti, 1. T: 055 294883.
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holidays 10am-8pm, Thurs 10am-11pm. Museum full ticket price: €12. www.palazzostrozzi.org. Piazza Strozzi. T: 055 2645155. Off Map
Fondazione Salvatore Romano
exhibitions. Open exclusively on the occasion f temporary exhibitions. Full ticket price: €3. www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Via San Leonardo, 1. Map F7
The museum is housed in the ancient Cenacolo (14th century) of the convent, built beside the church of Santo Spirito, the ancient function of which is recalled by the imposing fourteenth-century fresco by Andrea Orcagna that decorates its eastern wall, with fragments of a Last Supper at the bottom and a superb Crucifixion at the top. The museum houses works donated to the Municipality of Florence in 1946 by collector and antiquarian Salvatore Romano, a precious collection of sculptures, fragments of architectural decoration, detached frescos and furnishings of various origins and from periods between the ancient Roman Age and the 17th century. Entry to the Cenacolo is gained directly from Piazza Santo Spirito, to the left of the façade of the church. The museum is contained entirely within the vast setting of the Cenacolo. Open Mon and Sat 10am-5pm, Sun and holidays: 1pm-5pm. Closed 1 January, 7 January, Easter, 16 July, 15 August, 25 December. Full ticket price: Brancacci Chapel+Fondazione Salvatore Romano €7. www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Piazza Santo Spirito, 29. T: 055 287043. Map D5
Galleria degli Uffizi
Forte di Belvedere
Galleria dell’Accademia di Firenze
At the end of the 16th century, Ferdinando de’ Medici commissioned Bernardo Buontalenti to design a fortress on the top of Boboli Hill, to incorporate a villa to be used as a “belvedere” by the Grand Duke’s court. Despite its strategic position, it was never used for defensive purposes; however, a vault was created in the underground floors to house the state treasury. The fort currently hosts top-level events and
The Galleria owes its vast popularity to the presence of a number of sculptures by Michelangelo: the Prisoners, St. Matthew, but above the famous David, transported here from Piazza della Signoria (where it was replaced by a faithful copy) in August 1873. Housed in the adjacent premises, which were originally two convents, are works coming from the Academy
The Gallery occupies the whole of the first and second floors of the large building erected between 1560 and 1580 based on a project by Giorgio Vasari; it is one of the most famous museums in the world on account of its extraordinary collections of ancient sculptures and paintings (from the Middle Ages to the modern age). The collections of paintings from the 14th century and the Renaissance contain a number of absolute masterpieces of the art of all time: from Giotto to Simone Martini, Piero della Francesca, Beato Angelico, Filippo Lippi, Botticelli, Mantegna, Correggio, Leonardo, Raphael, Michelangelo, Caravaggio and Canaletto. There are also important collections by German, Dutch and Flemish painters, including Dürer, Rembrandt and Rubens. The Museum also houses the famous Department of Drawings and Prints and the Classical Antiquities Collection. Open Tues-Sun 8.15am6.50pm. Closed on Mondays, 1 January, 1 May, 25 December. Museum full ticket price: €20 (1 Mar-31 Oct)/€12 (1 Nov-28 Feb). www.uffizi.it. Piazzale degli Uffizi, 6. T: 055 23885.Map F5
’Spinario’ (Boy with Thorn) is a Greek marble sculpture with added Carrara marble elements from the 1st century AD conserved in the GALLERIA DEGLI UFFIZI.
of Design, the Academy of Fine Arts and the convents themselves, which were abolished in the Napoleonic Age. And also, the Gipsoteca, or Hall of Models, the collection of Russian icons and musical instruments of the courts of the Medici and Lorena families. Open Tues-Sun 8.15am-6.50pm. Closed on Mondays, 1 January, 1 May, 25 December. Museum full ticket price: €8. www.galleriaaccademiafirenze. beniculturali.it. Via Ricasoli , 58/60. T: 055 2388609/612. Map G2
Galleria Rinaldo Carnielo Conserved in the townhouse in Liberty style that was the home-studio of Rinaldo Carnielo (18531910) are over three hundred sculptures by the artist and a number of paintings by artists who were his contemporaries, such as Silvestro Lega, Michele Gordigiani and Arturo Calosci. An exponent of late 19th-century commemorative statuary, Carnielo had close relations with the environment of the Macchiaioli, of whom he was a friend and passionate collector. Museum temporarily closed to the public. www.museicivicifiorentini.comune. fi.it. Piazza Savonarola, 3. Off Map
Gino Bartali Cycling Museum
MUSEO DEGLI INNOCENTI This new museum - which was the first orphanage in Europe (15th century) - opened to the public in 2016 and combines art, architecture and the history of Childhood all together. Its museum itinerary is developed around the theme of welcoming. www.istitutodeglinnocenti.it
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The museum is located at Ponte a Ema, the locality where the great cycling champion Gino Bartali was born and began his competitive career. The building, completed in 2006, contains a store of cycles from various periods, enabling visitors to recognise their technical evolution, the actual museum, with displays of velocipedes, bicycles, clothing and relics documenting the history of cycling and the feats of Gino Bartali and other champions, and finally collections of period newspapers, publications and films. Open Fri-Sat 10am-1pm, Sun and holidays: 10pm-4pm. Closed 1 January, Easter, 1 May, 15 August, 25 December. Free entry. www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Via Chiantigiana, 175 - Ponte a Ema (30 minutes from Florence). T: 055 287043. Off Map
Museo degli Innocenti The Museum is located in the ancient Spedale degli Innocenti, a masterpiece of Renaissance architecture designed by Brunelleschi. Opened in 1445 as a refuge for abandoned children, today it continues its function as the “Institute of the
MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS
Innocents”. The museum itinerary combines the documentary and historical-artistic heritage, and in its Gallery hosts precious artworks by Sandro Botticelli, Domenico Ghirlandaio, Bartolomeo di Giovanni, Piero di Cosimo, Neri di Bicci and Luca and Andrea della Robbia. EDITOR’S TIP On the terrace the elegant Caffè del Verone offers beautiful panoramic views. Open daily 10am-7pm. Closed 1 January, 25 December. www.istitutodeglinnocenti.it. Piazza Santissima Annunziata, 13. T: 055 2037308. Map H1
Museo del Bigallo The headquarters of two ancient benevolent institutions, the Compagnia della Misericordia and the Compagnia del Bigallo, the so-called Loggia del Bigallo is a complex the construction of which was begun in 1352. A precious record of the history of Florence, the museum conserves wonderful frescos from the 14th century, including the Virgin of Mercy (1342), presenting the first famous view of Florence and precious panels from the 14th and 15th centuries. Access only for pre-booked guided visits (T: 055 288496): Mon-Sat 10am, 12 noon, 3pm; Sun and holidays 10am and 12 noon. Free entry. www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Piazza San Giovanni, 1. T: 055 288496. Map F3
Museo dell’Opera del Duomo The Museum houses works designed and built for the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, the Bell Tower and the Baptistery: it is a unique collection, with masterpieces by Arnolfo di Cambio, Ghiberti, Donatello, Luca della Robbia, Antonio Pollaiolo, Verrocchio and Michelangelo, in addition to paintings, goldsmithery, liturgical vestments, ancient work tools, models and architectural projects. Open daily 9am-8pm. Closed: 1st Tuesday of the month, 1 January, Easter, 25 December. Single ticket for the Museum and all the monuments of the Duomo (Dome, Baptistery, Giotto’s Bell Tower): €18 (online). www. ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza del Duomo, 9 (ticket office Piazza San Giovanni, 7). T: 055 2302885. Map G2
Museo dell’Opificio delle Pietre Dure An elegant collection of works made of semiprecious stones and multi-coloured marble and scagliola, paintings on stone and oil paintings, instruments, plus an extensive collection of stone samples. The works are displayed in chronological order from the early 17th century to the 1880s. Open Mon-Sat 8.15am-2pm. Closed on Sundays and holidays. www.opificiodellepietredure.it. Via degli Alfani, 78. T: 055 218709. Map H1
Museo di Palazzo Vecchio For over seven centuries Palazzo della Signoria, or Palazzo Vecchio, has been the symbol of the city’s civil power, and today it is still the seat of the Municipal Council of Florence. Built in 1299, over time it has undergone numerous enlargement and transformation projects. Along its labyrinthine routes are rooms and private environments sumptuously decorated by some of the most famous artists of the Florentine Renaissance, with period furnishings and exceptional masterpieces such as Judith and Holofernes by Donatello, The Genius of Victory by Michelangelo and Verrocchio’s Cherub. Open daily, from 1 April to 30 September: 9am-11pm; from 1 October to 31 March: 9am-7pm. Thursdays throughout the year: 9am-2pm: Closed on 25 December. Museum full ticket price: €10. www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Piazza della Signoria. T: 055 2768325. Map G4
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Museo di Santa Maria Novella
Museo Nazionale del Bargello
The complex of Santa Maria Novella includes the 13th-century Dominican Basilica and the monumental cloisters. The church contains extraordinary works such as Giotto’s Crucifix, Masaccio’s Holy Trinity, Brunelleschi’s Crucifix, the Tornabuoni Chapel by Ghirlandaio and his workshop and the Strozzi Chapel by Filippino Lippi. The cloisters present rare examples of the Florentine painting of the 14th and 15th centuries. The Ubriachi Chapel and ancient Refectory house a permanent exhibition of gold jewellery, sacred furnishings and liturgical vestments, part of the church’s ancient Treasury, plus a series of paintings. Open: Mon-Thurs 9am-7pm (from 1 April to 30 September); 9am-5.30pm (from 1 October to 31 March). Fridays throughout the year: open from 11am. Saturdays throughout the year 9am-5.30pm; Sundays and Holidays 1pm-5.30pm. Closed on 25 December. Full ticket price: €7.50. www.smn.it, www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Piazza Stazione, 4 - piazza Santa Maria Novella, 18. T: 055 219257- 055 282187.Map E3
This imposing building, built between the 13th and 14th centuries as the seat of the Podestà and the Council of Justice, was a lowly prison between 1574 and 1858 (the “Bargello” was the head of the Grand Duke’s Guards). The Museum conserves a highly important collection of Renaissance sculptures, with masterpieces by Donatello, Luca della Robbia, Verrocchio, Michelangelo, Cellini and Giambologna, and prestigious collections of “lesser arts” (bronzes, Majolica ware, jewellery, ivories, medals, fabrics and antique weaponry). Open daily 8.15am-1.50pm. From 9 April to 4
Museo di Storia Naturale - "La Specola" Zoology Section Opened to the public in 1775, “La Specola” is one of Europe’s oldest science museums. It possesses a collection of over 3.5 million animals (5,000 exhibited to the public) and the largest collection in the world of 18th-century anatomical waxworks illustrating the entire human body in every detail (visitable by booking in advance, T: 055 2756444). Open Tues-Sun 9.30am-6.30pm (1 Oct-31 May), Tues-Sun 10.30am-5.30pm (1 Jun-30 Sept). Closed on Mondays and 1 January, Easter, 1 May, 15 August, 25 December. Full ticket price €6. www.msn.unifi.it. Via Romana, 17. T: 055 2755100. Map H1
Museo Galileo Housed in the historic Palazzo Castellani, its unique collections include ancient scientific instruments datable between the 11th and 19th centuries, including all of Galileo Galilei’s original instruments. One group consists of the collection of instruments of the Medici dynasty, the other of the objects subsequently gathered together by the Grand Dukes of Lorraine. Open daily 9.30am-6pm, Tues 9.30am-1pm. Closed 1 January, 25 December. Full ticket price € 9. www.museogalileo.it. Piazza dei Giudici, 1. T: 055 265311. Map G5
Museo Giardini di Boboli Stretching out behind Pitti Palace are the marvellous Boboli Gardens. It was the Medici who were first responsible for designing their layout, creating the model of the Italian-style garden that was to become an example for many European courts. Populated by ancient and Renaissance statues, adorned with grottos - including the famous Buontalenti Grotto - and large fountains, such as those of Neptune and the Ocean, they are a genuine open-air museum. The terraced area includes the Rococò pavilion known as the Kaffeehaus and the Limonaia, the Lemon House. At the centre of the Rose Garden is the Palazzina del Cavaliere, which houses the Porcelain Museum (see entry). Open daily 8.15am-6.30pm (Apr-May-Sept), 8.15am-4.30pm (Jan-Feb-Nov-Dec), 8.15am-9.30pm (Jun-Jul-Aug), 8.15am-5.30pm in March, 8.15am6.30pm in October. Closed first and last Monday of the month. Closed 1 January, 25 December. Full ticket price: €10 (1 Mar-31 Oct)/€6 (1 Nov-28 Feb). www.uffizi.it. Piazza Pitti, 1. T: 055 23885. Map E6
What do those plates on the houses mean? Florence has an intense relationship with its river: the Arno is part of the city’s history, its geography, its image and its very identity. Unfortunately, over the centuries, Florence has not only experienced its life-giving energy, but also its destructive power: the Arno, in fact, has burst its banks on a number of occasions, causing damage and fatalities. The plates that are to be found on numerous façades indicate the height reached by the river: these are the numbers and dates that Florence wanted to engrave on its walls so as not to forget. In particular, on 4th November 1966, Florence experienced the most serious flood in its recent history: it was a dramatic and frightening episode, and the inhabitants’ memory of it is vivid. Looking around you, you will find numerous plates that commemorate it, but you will have to raise your gaze, because the water reached heights of between 4 and the 5 metres. The official number of victims was thirty-five.
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SIGHTSEEING |
MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS
Orsanmichele A unique, extraordinary monument, in which civil and religious functions are combined. Built as a granary, in the mid-14th century it was consecrated for Christian worship. On the ground floor the Church houses a grandiose marble tabernacle by Orcagna. The originals of the numerous sculptures (works by famous Florentine artists from the 15th and 16th centuries) that adorned the niches outside on the four sides of the imposing stone cube are conserved in the museum on the first floor. On the second floor you can enjoy a fine panoramic view of Santa Maria del Fiore. Classical music concerts are held here. Church (ground floor): open daily 10am4.50pm. Museum of Sculptures (first and second floor): open Mon (10am-4.50pm) and Sat (10am12.30). Free entry. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali. it/musei/3/orsanmichele. Via dell’Arte della Lana, 1. T: 055 2388606. Map F4
Palazzo Medici Riccardi
MUSEO NOVECENTO In addition to a permanent collection, the museum devoted to the Italian art of the 20th century proposes exhibitions and special projects, becoming an innovative space for research and experimentation. www.museonovecento.it
November 8.15am-5pm. Closed: 1st, 3rd, 5th Monday and 2nd, 4th Sunday of the month, 1 January, 1 May, 25 December. Museum full ticket price: €9. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it/ musei/1/bargello. Via del Proconsolo, 4. T: 055 282902. Map G4
Museo Novecento The Museum is housed in the ancient Spedale di San Paolo (13th century), which was later the Scuole Leopoldine (18th century). Dedicated to the Italian art of the 20th century, it offers a selection of around 300 works representing that unrepeatable artistic season that saw Florence at the centre of the international cultural scene. Structured in reverse chronological (from the 1990s to the early 20th century), thematic and interdisciplinary order, the immersive museum itinerary includes multimedia workstations, sound devices and video rooms along with the works themselves. From 1 October to 31 March: open daily (except Thurs) 11am-7pm, Thurs 11am-2pm. From 1 April to 30 September: MonTues-Wed-Sat-Sun 11am-8pm, Thurs 11am-2pm, Fri 11am-11pm. Closed on 25 December. Full ticket price: €8.50. www.museonovecento.it. Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 10. T: 055 286132/055 217158. Map D3
Museo Salvatore Ferragamo This is a museum devoted to the history of the Ferragamo company, to the life of its founder, Salvatore Ferragamo, and to his creations. Every year it organises exhibitions that investigate the relationship between fashion and art. The museum is situated in Palazzo Spini Feroni (1289) – which was purchased by Ferragamo in 1938 to make it the headquarters for his company and his workshop – and in its rooms it displays masterpieces of Florentine art from the 17th and 18th centuries. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Closed 1 January, 1 May, 15 August, 25 December. Full ticket price €6. www.
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ferragamo.com/museo. Palazzo Spini Feroni, Piazza Santa Trinita, 5/r. T: 055 3562-846/466. Map E4
Museo Stefano Bardini A connoisseur of art and an unbridled merchant in antiquities, Stefano Bardini (1836-1922) donated his private collection to Florence, where it was displayed in the Neo-Renaissance building (formerly the church and convent of San Gregorio della Pace) that housed his antiquarian gallery. There are over 2000 items there, including sculptures, paintings and objects of applied arts, from ancient art to that of the 18th century, with a major presence of works from the Middle Ages and the Renaissance. Among its most significant works are St. Michael the Archangel by Antonio del Pollaiolo, the Madonna of the Ropes by Donatello and Guercino’s Atlas. Open Fri-Sat-Sun-Mon 11am-5pm. Closed on 1 January, Easter, 1 May, 15 August, 25 December. Full ticket price €6. www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Via dei Renai, 37 (Ponte alle Grazie). T: 055 2342427. Map G6
Four centuries of the history of art, architecture and collections in a single building, one of the most beautiful in Florence; built in the mid-15th century by Michelozzo at the wishes of the Medici, it is the prototype of Renaissance civil architecture. Its jewel is the Magi Chapel, which you enter by climbing the elegant seventeenth-century staircase. Open daily 8.30am-7pm. Closed on Wednesdays. Via Cavour, 3. T: 055 2760340. Map F2
Porcelain Museum Housed at the top of the Boboli Gardens, in the 18thcentury Palazzina del Cavaliere at the centre of the Rose Garden, are the collections of table porcelains of the ruling houses that succeeded each other at Pitti Palace, representing Italian and European production: from the Manifattura di Doccia, founded by the Ginori family, to the porcelains of Sèvres and Meissen. For address, opening and closing times, see Museo Giardini di Boboli. Map F7
Museo Stibbert One of the most fascinating and unusual places in Florence, it is a Neo-Gothic castle built by Frederick Stibbert (1838-1906) with exceptional collections, including weaponry, art objects and everyday items from European, Islamic and Far Eastern civilisations, particularly Japanese, portraits, but also great masterpieces by Botticelli, Crivelli, Bronzino, Suttermans and others. Eclectic taste characterises the sumptuous private apartments and the park, decorated with groves, pavilions, statues, artificial ruins and a small Egyptian temple. Open Mon-TuesWed 10am-2pm; Fri-Sat-Sun 10am-6pm. Closed on Thursdays, 1 January, Easter, 1 May, 15 August, 25 December. Full ticket price €8. Visits are run every hour for accompanied, groups of 25 people. www.museostibbert.it. Via Stibbert, 26. T: 055 475520. Off Map
Cappella dei Magi, Palazzo Medici Riccardi
MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS
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Santa Maria del Fiore The monuments of the complex of Santa Maria del Fiore, the symbol in Florence throughout the world, are a single large open-air museum, a unique combination of art, faith and history located in the city’s main square, the religious, historical and artistic centre of Florence. The Duomo (Santa Maria del Fiore), Brunelleschi’s Dome, the Baptistery of Saint John, Giotto’s Bell tower (see all in "Attractions&Monuments"), together with the Crypt of Santa Reparata and the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo (see entry) are all visitable with a single ticket that can be purchased online (full price €18), with prior booking necessary for the Dome. The visiting times of the monuments are different and vary depending on the day. www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza del Duomo. T: 055 2302885. Map G2-G3
Sunday 3 June: free admission to State Museums
Villa Bardini and Gardens The most beautiful view of Florence earned it the name “Villa Belvedere”. Today Villa Bardini, a place rich in history, art and culture, has become an exhibition centre, which, along with temporary exhibitions, also hosts the Pietro Annigoni Museum (www. museoannigoni.it), dedicated to the great realist painter, and the Roberto Capucci Museum (www. fondazionerobertocapucci.com, currently being restructured). In addition, there is also a Michelinstarred restaurant inside it, La leggenda dei Frati (see "Dining"), and surrounding it are four hectares of woodland, an Italian-style garden and a kitchen garden and orchard. Open Tues-Sun 10am-7pm. Closed on Mondays. Full ticket price €8. Bardini Gardens: open daily 8.15am-4.30pm (Nov-Feb); 8.15am-5.30pm (Mar); 8.15am-6.30pm (Apr-May, Sept-Oct); 8.15am-7.30pm (Jun-Aug). Closed first and last Monday of the month, 1 January, 1 May, 25 December. Full ticket price €10 (with Boboli Gardens and the Porcelain Museum). www. villabardini.it. Costa San Giorgio, 2 - Via dei Bardi, 1/r. T: 055 20066233. Map G6-G7
Botticelli Room, Galleria degli Uffizi
Every first Sunday of the month, more than 450 museums and archaeological sites across Italy open their doors to the public free of charge. Florence, like many other cities in the country, has joined this initiative promoted by the Ministry of Cultural Heritage by offering free admission to the museums listed below on Sunday 3 June. GALLERIE DEGLI UFFIZI www.uffizi.it • Gli Uffizi piazzale degli Uffizi, 6 • Gabinetto dei Disegni e delle Stampe via della Ninna, 5 • Palazzo Pitti Museums (see page 69) Porcelain Museum, Tesoro dei Granduchi Giardino di Boboli, Galleria Palatina and Royal Apartments, Museo della Moda e del Costume, Galleria d’Arte Moderna piazza Pitti, 1 MUSEI DEL BARGELLO www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it • Museo delle Cappelle Medicee piazza di Madonna degli Aldobrandini, 6 • Museo Nazionale del Bargello via del Proconsolo, 4
• Museo di Casa Martelli via Ferdinando Zannetti, 8 • Museo di Palazzo Davanzati via Porta Rossa, 13 • Museo di Orsanmichele via Arte della Lana, 1 • Cenacolo di Andrea del Sarto a San Salvi www.polomusealetoscana.beniculturali.it via di San Salvi, 16 • Galleria dell’Accademia di Firenze www.galleriaaccademiafirenze.beniculturali.it via Ricasoli, 58-60 • Giardino della Villa di Castello www.polomusealetoscana.beniculturali.it via di Castello, 44 • MAF-Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Firenze museoarcheologiconazionaledifirenze. wordpress.com piazza S.S. Annunziata, 9 • Parco di Villa Il Ventaglio www.polomusealetoscana.beniculturali.it via Giovanni Aldini, 10/12. • Villa Medicea della Petraia www.polomusealetoscana.beniculturali.it via della Petraia, 40. • Villa Medicea di Cerreto Guidi and Museo Storico della Caccia e del Territorio www.polomusealetoscana.beniculturali.it via Ponti Medicei, 7 - Cerreto Guidi
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ESSENTIALS
The museum city Within its historic centre (declared a “UNESCO world heritage site” en bloc) Florence contains a unique concentration of historical and artistic attractions. Here is some guidance for you to enjoy it.
F
lorence’s labyrinthine plan, made up of alleyways and sidestreets, derives from its medieval origins. Yet the city’s period of maximum splendour was undoubtedly the Renaissance, of which countless masterpieces remain. With less than four hundred thousand inhabitants and covering an area of little more than a hundred square kilometres, Florence is practically impossible to tour by car, and in fact the centre is to a large extent prohibited to vehicle traffic. We suggest, if possible, that you tour it on foot, to best enjoy its beauties, but you can also count on quite an efficient public transport network (which, however, is severely limited during the nighttime hours, so take care after midnight). Taxis and bikes can reach all the strategic points, whereas private cars are usually only 74 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I J U N E 2018
allowed into the centre to load and unload your luggage at your hotel (but always ask your concierge, also so you can receive indications of where the car parks are located in the centre). To find your way around the city, it is a good idea to keep well in mind that Florence is developed along the two banks of the River Arno. All the roads that run alongside the river, on both sides, are called “Lungarno” and it is only the second part of the name that changes. Lungarno degli Archibugieri, for example, is right in the centre: it is there that the Vasari Corridor passes and the Uffizi looks out over it. The whole area on the other side of the river, to the south, is called “Oltrarno” by the Florentines. It was originally outside the historic centre, but today it contains important
attractions, such as Pitti Palace, the Boboli Gardens and Borgo Santo Spirito, the city’s most bohemian neighbourhood. For decades the Florentine naming system has had a peculiarity that is gradually disappearing, but some traces of it can still be found: the civic numbers, in fact, were divided between “black”, which denoted the residences, and “red”, for businesses. Some red numbers still remain, so bear that in mind. Finally, some suggestion for improving your visit. The Tuscan regional capital is one of the cities with the highest tourist density on the entire planet: wherever you wish to visit, book in advance (or have them book for you at your hotel). You should also bear in mind that the serious overcrowding takes place around midmorning, so if you are an early bird then that could give you a significant advantage. (E.B.)
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT FLORENCE.WHEREITALIA.COM
Emergency AMBULANCE – T: 118 POLICE – T: 055 3285 FIRE SERVICE – T: 115
European Emergency Number – T: 112 (available at the end of 2018) 112 is the unique European Emergency Number created to provide all European citizens with a single number: Ambulance (118), Fire Service (115), Police (113). Operators will also answer calls in English, French or German. If the caller does not know where he or she is, the operator will identify where the person making the call is physically located and will pass this information to the emergency services. OPEN PHARMACIES Farmacia Comunale 13
(inside S. M. Novella Station. T: 055 216761) open daily 24/24; Farmacia all’Insegna del Moro (Piazza San Giovanni, 20/R. T: 055 211343) open daily 8am-midnight. www.farmaciediturno.net PASSPORTS Questura di Firenze, Via Zara, 2.
T: 055 49771.
Taxi In Italy taxis cannot be flagged down as they pass you along the street; they are stationed at special taxi parking stands in most of the major squares in any city or town and at the airport and can be requested by phone. TAXI FIRENZE 4242.IT T: 055 4242 - www.4242.it TAXI FIRENZE 4390 T: 055 4390 - www.4390.it
www.apptaxi.it/firenze: available for iOS and Android, it has more than 4045 licensed taxi drivers. Fixed taxi fares to airports From Amerigo Vespucci Airport to Florence (city centre): €22 (plus baggage supplements and extra fee for night or holiday travel). From Florence (city centre) to Pisa: €140 / Bologna: €180 / Rome Fiumicino: €550 / Milan Linate: €550 / Milan Malpensa: €650 Fixed taxi fares to some destinations in Tuscany Pisa: €150 / Montecatini Terme: €90 / Siena: €120 / Livorno: €160 / Forte dei Marmi: €180 / Arezzo: €140 / Lucca: €140 / Empoli: €55 / Pistoia: €65 / San Gimignano: €100 / Volterra: €150 / Piombino: €300. Fixed taxi fares to main Shopping Outlets The Mall: €65 / Barberino Designer Outlet McArthurGlen: €65
Trains The most important railway station is Santa Maria Novella (SMN), in the central Piazza della Stazione, and regional, interregional, high-speed and international trains arrive at and depart from there. Florence offers fast-track access to major cities across Italy thanks to its high-speed trains: • Bologna: 35 min • Rome: 1 hour 20 min • Milan: 1 h 40 min • Venice: 2 hours 5 min • Naples: 2 hours 52 min • Turin: 2 hours 55 min TRENITALIA Railway Company - Info T: 892021. www.
trenitalia.com. WHERE TIP Train+bike is a viable formula for sustainable mobility. It is possible to put your bikes on Trenitalia regional trains.
ITALO - Info T: 060708. Italo Assistance T: 892020.
www.italotreno.it. WHERE TIP For travellers with Italo departing from Florence or arriving in
PUBLIC TRANSPORT MAP © ATAF Florence, it is possible to travel on all the means of transport (both trams and buses) with no added cost by taking advantage of your train ticket for 24 hours from the time of arrival and 24 hours before departure to visit the city using public transport on the network served by Ataf means of transport and the T1 tramway.
Airports AEROPORTO DI FIRENZE PERETOLA “AMERIGO VESPUCCI” (FLR) - (4 km from the centre of Florence). The airport, to the North-West of Florence, lies between the “Firenze Nord” exit from the freeway and Florence’s industrial area near Prato. Call centre T: 055 30615. www.aeroporto.firenze.it • Connections to the airport VolaInBus Shuttle Service (www.fsbusitalia.it) from S.M. Novella Station (Piazza della Stazione). Every 30 min, travel time approx. 30’ (5am-8pm) and approx. 1 h (10pm-midnight). Tickets can be purchased on board, at the BusItalia-Sita Nord ticket office near the S.M. Novella Station (Via S. Caterina da Siena) or at ATAF ticket offices (www. ataf.net). One-way ticket: €6 - round trip ticket: €10. WHERE TIP A new line Tramway 2, connecting the airport with S.M. Novella Station, is activated in June 2018. AEROPORTO DI PISA “GALILEO GALILEI” (PSA) - (80 km from the centre of Florence). Call centre T: 050 849300. www.pisa-airport.com • Connections to Florence-S.M. Novella Station and Aeroporto di Firenze Peretola Shuttle Services: 1) Terravision – One-way ticket: €4.99 - round trip ticket: €9.98. Every 30 or 60 min, travel time approx. 70’ (9am-midnight) and approx. 1 h (10pm-midnight). www.terravision.eu 2) Autostradale – T: 02 30089000. One-way ticket: €7.50 - round trip ticket: €13.50. Every 30 or 60 min, travel time approx. 70’ (9am-midnight) and approx. 1 h (10pm-midnight). www.autostradale.it
Getting around Florence ATAF - Azienda Trasporti dell’area Fiorentina/ Local Public Transport Company - www.ataf.net Infoline daily 6am-9pm. Green Line (Toll Free Number) T: 800 424500; from mobile (Toll Number): T: 199 104245. ATAF Point-Customer Care Railway Station Firenze S.M. Novella – Offices no. 8 and no. 9. Open Mon-Sat 6.45am-8pm. Lost and Found on ATAF vehicles: Mon-Wed-Fri 9am-12.30pm; Tues-Thurs 2.30pm-4pm. Via Veracini, 5 (int. 5). T: 055 334802. Purchase your ticket before you get on the bus or the tram: the ticket must be validated using the machines on the bus. Ordinary ticket (€1.20) valid for 90 minutes. Can be used on buses, trams or trains. Ticket 2x90’ (€2.40). Ticket 4x90’ (€4.70). 90 minutes onboard ticket (€2, no change given). Daily ticket: 24-hour ticket (€5). 3-day ticket (€12). 7-day ticket (€18). Daily Family: one-day ticket for one family of 4 (€6). Nottetempo Ticket: one-day ticket from 10pm to 3am (€4, by phoning T: 055 5650555). The T1 Tram connects S.M. Novella Station in Florence to Scandicci (www.gestramvia.com) Electric buses move around the historic centre and also reach the pedestrian areas. There are four lines: C1-C2-C3-D. WHERE TIP Route C1 is convenient for visiting the most important museums in Florence. The entire historic centre of Florence (which is approximately the part located within the 19thcentury ring-roads or viali, which is a protected UNESCO heritage site) is a “Zona a Traffico Limitato” (ZTL), or restricted traffic zone. Bicycles, electric vehicles, motorcycles and scooters are allowed to enter. WHERE TIP Access is granted, at any time, to visitors who need to reach a hotel where they have a booking in their car.
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ESSENTIALS
Tourist Information INFOPOINT FIRENZE TURISMO www.firenzeturismo.it 1. Train Station Infopoint > Piazza della Stazione, 4. T: 055 212245. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7pm; Sun and holidays 9am-2pm. Multilingual tourist information and sales point for Firenzecard. 2. Tourist Information Office > Via C. Cavour, 1/R. T: 055 290832. Open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm. Free brochures and complaints service. Sales point for Firenzecard. 3. Bigallo Infopoint > Piazza San Giovanni, 1. T: 055 288496. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7pm; Sun and holidays 9am-2pm. Quick information service. 4. Airport Infopoint > Piazza San Giovanni, 1. T: 055 315874. Open daily 9am-7pm. TOURIST CONTACT CENTRE – T: 055 000 Info about services for tourists, exhibitions, events, opening times of museums, how to move around the city. Available daily 9am-7pm in Italian, English, French, German and Spanish. Via email (touristinfo@comune.fi.it) you can ask for information in any language, including Portuguese, Chinese, Japanese, Russian and Arabic (answers within 24 hours). TOURIST CARDS Firenzecard is a special tourist card valid for 72 hours providing you with admission to 72 museums, villas and historical gardens in Florence
and the surrounding areas. It costs €72 and provides priority access to museums. Firenzecard+ is the Plus version: you can travel by all the city’s buses for 3 days and you have access to many commercial partners with discounts and
UNIQUE | FAST TRAINS NETWORK FROM FLORENCE
offers. It costs just €5, but you can only buy it if you have the Firenze Card. www.firenzecard.it.
Special Tours CITY SIGHTSEEING® FIRENZE HOP ON HOP OFF
Hallmark red double-decker bus. 7 days a week, all year round. You can join the tour from any stop. Tickets on board, in hotels and from authorised agencies or on the Internet. Wi-fi on board. “Sightseeing Experience” Free App. 24-hour ticket > Prices: Adults €23 - reduced €12 – family €70. 48-hour ticket > Prices: Adults €28 - reduced €14 – family 84€. 72-hour ticket > Prices: Adults €33 - reduced €17. The public transport ticket is included in your ticket. 2 lines, over 40 stops. Commentary in 8 languages. Main departures > A Line: S.M. Novella Station. B Line: Piazzale Michelangelo. Combo tickets for top Florence attractions can be purchased at special prices. www.city-sightseeing.it/it/firenze SEGWAY - The trendiest, most environmentally
friendly way to visit the city. Rental fare: 1 hour: €19. www.segwayfirenze.it LOOKALS - The new platform where travellers
can choose from the best selection of tours and activities in Italy created by locals and tour guides, who can promote and sell their own itineraries, getting in touch with thousands of travellers from all over the world. www.lookals.com.
Bike Sharing MOBIKE – This ’free floating’ bike-sharing system allows you to book a bike via the free Mobike App (App Store or Google Play), identify the position of the bike nearest to you and then leave it in any authorised parking area in the city or in a bike rack. Cost: €1 deposit, and €0.30 for every 30 minutes. For more information, visit www.mobike.com Useful information about cycling maps on www.becycle.comune.fi.it.
76 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I J U N E 2018
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Basilica di San Lorenzo
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Palazzo Medici Riccardi
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PIAZZA DELLA SANTISSIMA ANNUNZIA
Galleria dell’Accademia
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PIAZZALE D O N AT E L L O
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PIAZZA DEL MERCATO CENTRALE
VIA DEL CAN TO DEI NEL LI
DONNA GLI RANDINI
Chiesa La SS. Annunziata di Firenze
VIA DE ’GI NO RI
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GI
VI
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Mercato Centrale
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SAN MARCO
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[ O N LY AT P R E M I E R E H O T E L S ]
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