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OCTOBER 2018
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Editore: Where Italia srl. Supplemento di Where Milan - Reg. Trib. Milano No. 453, 19 July 2010 Where Italia Srl, iscritto al ROC n. 20182 del 14 settembre 2010 Direttore Responsabile: Andrea Jarach. info@wheremilan.com - www.wheremilan.com.
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15 Ca' Rezzonico 16
Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore
DAM
AMEN
TANA
►
S. Marco (Vallaresso)
SALUTE
Giardino delle Vergini
Rio
FOND
DE LA
CALLE
DEI FORNI
Arsenale
Punta della Dogana
La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale
La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese
FON
La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale
CAMPO
PIETR
VIDA
SAN
LA
RUGA VECCHIA
DE
Whilst every care has been taken to check the accuracy of the informat
DEI
CALLE
SALIZADA
FONDAMENTA ARSENALOTTI
INA
WHERE MILAN MAPS - Original Map by Urbanfile (www.urbanfile.org) designed by Where Italia srl, via Ezio Biondi 1, 20154 Milano (Italy).
ETO
CALLE DEL DOSE
CAGNOL
San Martino
MOROS
FONDAMENTA
RE
RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA
CALLE
EMB
PESTRIN
GRITTI CALLE
A
E IV NOV
DE CALLE
CROSER
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Arsenale di Venezia
PIGNATER
Rio d el Giardini
delle
PISCINA
DE
CALLE DE LA PIETA’
Canale
L’ARCO
CALLE
ONI
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S. Zaccaria (Pieta')
FONDAMEN
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San Giovanni Battista in Bragora R I VA D EGLI
Arsenale di Venezia
CALLE MONTELLO SAN EL ENA
LO
Fondam
CALLE
CALLE DEI
SAN
CALLE TERAZZERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’
Santa Maria della Pietà VONI
PESCARIA
San Zaccaria
SCHIA
Nuove
L’ANZO
MARTIN SAN
DEL
CAMPO SAN LORENZO
MAGNO CALLE
DE
CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI
SALIZADA
CALLE
CAMPO SAN PROVOLO
DEGLI
GRECI
San Giorgio dei Greci
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S. Zaccaria (Danieli)
CASTELLO NUOVE
CASTELLO
DONA
CALLE DEI FURLANI
CALLE DEL MAGAZEN
O
SESTIERE
CASE
CALLE
CALLE
enta
CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA
DE L’OGIO
Rio de San Gerolamo
CALLE
CALLE
CORTE DELLE GATE CALLE LION
TA CELESTIA
CORTE SACCA
CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA
DEI PRETI
FONDAMEN CALLE
CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA
CORTE DEL MORION
SANTA GIUSTINA
San Giovanni di Malta
CALLE DEL FORNO
CASTELLO
GIUSTINA
CAPPUCCINE
SANTA
CALLE
CALLE MASSA C. DE LE MOSCHETE
CALLE CAVALLI
FONDAMENTA
PIETA’
DEL TE DEUM
MURAZZO CALLE
NUOVE
SECONDO SAGRADO
DELLA
DELLA
CALLE SALIZADA
CASE
RAMO
CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA
CALLE
CAPPELLO
San Francesco della Vigna
FRANCESCO
CALLE DEL FO
RAMO
SAN
SALIZADA
CALLE ZORZI
C. DE LA MADONETA
DOSE DEL CALLE
CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA
DE L’OSMARIN
R I VA
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
ZON
CALLE SAN LORENZO
C. VOLTO
RC
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Editore: Where Italia srl. Supplemento di Where Venice- Reg. Trib. Milano No. 453, 19 July 2010 Where Italia Srl, iscritto al ROC n. 20182 del 14 settembre 2010 Direttore Responsabile: Andrea Jarach. info@wheremilan.com - www.wheremilan.com.
CALLE CALLE
STELLA
SQUERO
CALLE
DEL
ANTI
CALLE
canti
MENDIC
ONIO
AL
DEI
Mendi
BANDI
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Whilst every care has been taken to check the accuracy of the information in this map, the publisher cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions or the consequences thereof. No part of this map may be reproduced without the permission of the publisher.
Rio
DE D LA PIETA’
NI DEI
CALLE
dei
CALLE CALL DE L MAGAZEN
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A
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San Lorenzo
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Rio San Lorenzo
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CALLE
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United States Pavilion
Japan Pavilion
SANT'ELENA
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I
BO
LUNGO
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LI
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N
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ISEPO
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CALLE
Russia Pavilion
G
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US
GI
N
E
CALLE
SA
TA
San Giuseppe di Castello
AL
FIANCO
EN
Giardini
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IE
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Parco delle Rimembranze
MP
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AM
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LE
LE
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Palazzo Ducale
MI
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O
Chiesa S. Erasmo
DE
LA CERTOSA Basilica di San Pietro di Castello
LLA
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del
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Spirito Santo
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CALLE
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CALLE
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CALLE
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CALLE
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IAN
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CALLE TERCO
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SA
Vergini
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FO
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E
NOV
Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto
CORTE TREVISAN
DEL
PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI
RC
LL
GRANDE
N TA
Giardino delle Vergini de le
F O N D A M E N TA
CALLE
OC
DEGLI
CA
MIA
CA
E N TA S E
La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale
FOND. SAN GIOACCHIN
SA
CR
CALLE
CORTE
AM
AME
M
I
RI
C.
TI
GIUSE
AR
SARES
M
O E ANC
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Basilica di San Marco
ASCENSIONE
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ACCADE
DA
E N TA R I O D E L L A TA NA
DOMENICO CALLE SAN
E
VIALE
TT
CALL
FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN
I S E
CALLE
TA
Santa Croce
SCHIAVONI RIVA
Ca' Giustinian
FONDAMENTA
13
CAMPO DELLA SALUTE
Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute
TERRÀ
CALLE
FON
LE
San Francesco di Paola
COPPO
EN
CROCE
Santa Maria del Pianto
VIN CALLE DEL
HE
ERTITE
CALL
CONV CALLE
N CAMI
LO
DEL
ENA
BALD
SCHIAVONA
DE
CALLE CORERA
AM
DELLA
Salute
CATECUMENI
RIO
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
GARI
EPPE CALLE
VA
C A L L E C ATA PA N
RIEL
ARS
ALE
FONDAM
IUS VIA G
CALLE
DEI PUTI
TRAGHETTO
E
E N TA
TA A R SEN
LA TANA
CALLE DELL’ANGELO
CALL
RAMO DE
DELFINA
RO
AMEN
TANA
GRIMANI
Moise
PESA
IO
LE VIGNOLE
FOND
DE LA
C A L L E G I A N B AT T I S TA T I E P O L O
CALLE
SEBASTIAN
E
G
Faro di Murano
DAM
La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale
CAMPO
CALLE
MEZZO
VIDA
CALLE
MARTIRI
SAN
San
CALLE DEL
DI
LA
NUOVA
RIDOTTO
CALLE DEL PESTRIN
CALLE
DEI
DE
Museo Storico Navale di Venezia
DEI PRETI
TREDICI
Rio
DRIO
SA
Rio
FON
FONDAMENTA ARSENALOTTI
CALLE
DEI FORNI
COLTRERA
CALLE
ES
La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese
San Martino
MOROSINA
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
RIELO
CALLE
SPORCA CALLE PAZIENZE DE LE
VALLARESSO
LORENZO
CALLE
FONDAMENTA
ND
VI
A
Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo
Palazzo Querini Stampalia
CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA
O
ETTO
RIO TERA’ OGNISANTI
BR
RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA
CALLE
Arsenale
CALLE
FO
CALLE
ENT
FORNO
CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA
Palazzo
FONDAMENTA
PESTRIN
GRITTI CALLE
ISOLA DI
FO
Redentore
MALAMOCCO
FONDAMENTA DEL VIN
FABBRI
MARTIRI
RIDOTTO
TREDICI
CALLE
DEI CORTELLOTTI
DE CALLE
CROSERA
Arsenale di Venezia
Arsenale di Venezia
PIGNATER
CALLE FRIZIER
O
Santissimo Redentore
DAM
San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti
Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani
BANDE
CORTE
CALLE
L MO
VALLARESSO
CALLE
DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO
A ROTONDA
DONA
L’ANZOLO
PISCINA
DE
S. Giorgio
FO
Le Zitelle
Zitelle
SAN GI ACOM
CALLE MORE
CALLE ALBERO
FON
CALLE DEL FIGHER
E
CALLE
BALONI
CAPPELL
BIANCA
Museo Correr
CALLE
Moise
DEL TRAGHETTO
FONDAMENT
LE
NUOVE
CASTELLO
CALLE
CALLE DE
MARTIN
L’ARCO
CALLE
ONI
Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore
Spirito Santo
M E N TA
VI
SOTO E CORTE NOVA
DEI
DE
IE
CAR
BEC
LLEE
DE
CALL CA LLE E
RIA CERE LA DE E CALL
AL
O
CASTELLO CASE
CELESTIA
CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA
DE L’OGIO
SAN
DE
SALIZADA
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LI
SESTIERE
FONDAMENTA CALLE DELLA
CALLE
CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI
CALLE
100 m
CALLE
CALL
O
NUOVE
SECONDO SAGRADO
CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA
CORTE DEL MORION
CORTE DELLE GATE
ANTONIN
S C H I AV
CROSERA
CALLE
C. SAN
e
SARTOR
CALL
CASE
RAMO
CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA
CORTE SACCA
SAN
CALLE
IA
San Francesco della Vigna
FRANCESCO
SANTA GIUSTINA
CALLE DEI FURLANI
CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO
San Giovanni Battista in Bragora
CASTELLO
LUC
SAN
SALIZADA
SALIZADA
SALUTE
Punta della Dogana
DI
C. DEL
ASCENSIONE
SCOAZZERA DE LA
LE PAZIENZE
CATECUMENI
PIETRO
LARGA
C. DE
RIO TERRÀ
SAN
RIO TERA’
L' ARZERE
CALLE
TA
CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA
San Giovanni di Malta
CALLE TERAZZERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’
RI FONDAMENTA
CAMPO DELLA SALUTE
Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute
San Gregorio
RUGA VECCHIA
GUARDIANI
DE
TODESCHI
CALLE
CANAL RIO TERA’
C. DEI
SAN
L’
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
ZON
R I VA D EGLI
S. Zaccaria (Pieta')
S. Zaccaria (Danieli)
Salute
CALLE DEL BASTION
C. VOLTO
LO
CALLE
CALLE SAN LORENZO
CALLE LION
VONI
O
DEGLI
S. Marco (Vallaresso)
Ca' Giustinian
Palazzo Pisani Gritti
Santa Maria del Giglio
CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO
ROSSA
VERONA
nd Canal Gra
FONDAMENTA
LA
MINELLI
ENTA
DE
DAM
C.
PICCO
CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA
San Lorenzo
Santa Maria della Pietà
VIN CALLE DEL
CALLE
S. SAMUELE
FON
EL
P U N TA S A B B I O N I
DEL CAFETIER
CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA
San Giorgio dei Greci
San Zaccaria
SCHIA
DEL PIOVAN
PESTRIN
RAGUSEI
CAVALLETTO
ORSEOLO
DEL
FONDAMENTA
DEL
Palazzo
C.
PISCINA
VERONA
CROSERA
CALLE
LA
CALLE
SIMON
DEI PRETI
CALLE DEL MAGAZEN
CAMPO SAN LORENZO
DEGLI
FONDAMENTA
DE
FABBRI
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
C.
DEI
FONDAMENTA DEL VIN
SOTO E CORTE NOVA
MANDOLA
Rio Del
AVVOCATI
CALLE
TRAGHETTO
TERÀ
DEL
RIO
CALLE
SAN
CALLE
CAMPO SAN LORENZO
CORTE NOVA
CALLE
DE L’OSMARIN FONDAMENTA
CAMPO SAN PROVOLO
CALLE BOSELLO
C.
C. DE LE COLONNE
CALLE
DELL’OROLOGIO
CAZZIOLA
SPECHIERI
SPADARIA
MARZARIA
REDIVO
DEI
CALLE GOLDONI
TRAGHETTO
CALLE
MENTA
LATERANO
ZORZI SALIZADA
C. PIANTON
R I VA
BASTION
CALLE
DEL
FONDA
D
Santa Maria del Pianto
DE LE TOLE
FONDAMENTA GIOVANNI
CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO
BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO
CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO
SCUDI
RC
DEL
CALLE
A N M
DEGLI
SA
SCHIAVONI RIVA
CALLE
FABBRI
FONDAMENTA
DEI
LO
CALLE
GRIMANI
CALLE
PISCOPIA
CAVALLI
CARBON
Salvador
CALLE
CALLE
DEL
CORNER
San
CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO
Palazzo Ducale
MO
MEZO
GIUFFA
CALLE
CALLE
Rio
CASSELERIA
F. CONDULMER
DE CALLE
SEVERO
CORTE NUOVA
REMEDIO
San Giovanni Novo
MARCO
CANONICA DE LA
O
GATE
FON. DEI TOLENTINI
CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA
RUGA
IA
BARBARIA
SAN
Palazzo Querini Stampalia
BANDE
CORTE
DEL
SAN
CALLE
RC
SAN
CERER
DE LE
FRUTARIOLI
CALLE
LARGA
PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI
Basilica di San Marco
MA
DRASI
LA
CAMPIELLO P. B I G A G L I A
C LE
NOVE
Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto
CORTE TREVISAN
CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA
Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani
CALLE
CALLE DEL FIGHER
CALLE
BALONI
CAPPELLO
SAN
DE LE
BEMBO
DE
San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti
Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo
Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo
CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO
FORNO
CORTE DEL PRESTRIN
TASCA
CORTE
C.DEI
BIANCA CALLE
ZZA
CALLE
C.
G. GALLINA
DEL
DE LE ERBE
FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI
CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO
LIO
ZULIAN
CORTE TORRETTA
SALIZADA
O MUSSATO CALLE
San Giuliano
SAN
PIGNOLI
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
LICINI
LUCATELLO MARZARIA DEI
PIA
Museo Correr
Rio San Lorenzo
MADONA
SBIACCA
LARGA
CALLE
CORTE
MEZO
C.
CORTE DELLE ANCORE
FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO
CALLE
AL
TI
FONDAMENTA
CORTE NOVA
CALLE GABRIELI
DRIO CALLE LE SCUOLE
CALLE
CALLE
SAN
Rio Nuovo
DE LA
FORNO
SEI
CORTE CORTESE
CAMPIELLO STELLA
CAMPIELLO WIDMANN
LIO
SALIZADA
TABACCHI
RAMO
DEL
RAGU
NOVE
BERLENDIS
VARISCO
CASTELLI
PIOMBO
CAMPO DEL VOLTO
SAN
C. LARGA
RUBBI
DE
CORTE GRAGOLINA
Bacino Orseolo
CALLE ERIZZO
CALLE
DOLERA
NUOVA
A
BOTERI
CALLE
O
CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO
CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN
CALLE
D. PALLE
GIAZZO
CAMPO SAN LIO
CORTE
CALLE
CAPITELLO
BALOTE
GALLO CALLE CAMPO SAN GALLO
CARRO
ORBI
CALLE
LARG
DEI
V O LT
CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA
WIDMANN
Santa Maria dei Miracoli
MIRACOLI
CALLE
VENEZIA
FONDAMENTE
LARGA
CAMPO DE LA CARITA’
LE D EL
DEL M ORA
C O RT E B ATA G I A
DEI
CALLE DEL C.MARTINENGO CALLE
Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione
CAMPO
DE LA FAVA
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DEL
TAGIAPIERA
LE
GRAGOLINA LE COLONNE DE
STRAZZE TERÀ RIO
SAN
DEL
PRIMO RAMOCONTARINA CORTE
San Moisè
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Teatro Malibran
GALIAZZO
C. DEL
SALVADOR
MARZARIA
CORTE C.DEL TRAMONTIN
C.DE
C.
DELLE
C.
FRUTARIOL
CALLE
CAMPO SAN MOISE’
DEI
CALLE
DEL
FREZZERIA
MOISE’
PISCINA
XXII MARZO
CALLE
E
RAMO
S.Canciano
SAN CANZIAN
CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION
C. DEL
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DEL FORNO
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Casa di Marco Polo
CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO
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DEL
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DE PISCINA
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LARGA
CAMPIELLO CONTARINI
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GALIZZI
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DEI
DEL
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DEI
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CALLE
CALLE
CORTE MICHIEL
CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO
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San Salvador
TEATRO DEL CALLE
LOCANDE
CORTE DEL
MARZARIA
SAN
TEATRO
CALLE
ASSASSINI
San Fantin
la Fenice
Maria del Giglio
COCCO
CALLE
PAPADOPOLI
CALLE
TOSCANA
MAZZINI
CORTE
CORTE DEL
Palazzo Nervi Scattolin
PATERNIN
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TERÀ
RIO
FONTEGO
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SAN SALVADOR
Teatro Carlo Goldoni
CAMPO MANIN SAN CALLE
CALLE
CAFETIER
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CAL
FRUTARIOL
CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO
CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA
C. DEL
SALIZZADA PIO
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Rialto (Palazzo Cavalli)
CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA
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MARCO
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CAOTORTA
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Spirito Santo
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San
CALLE
CALLE DEL PESTRIN
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VENIER
CORTE DEL REMER
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CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON
Fontego dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto Rialto
Fontego Palazzo Rava Dolfin Manin
S.Silvestro
DEL
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CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI
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DE
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San Giovanni Grisostomo CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO
San Giacomo di Rialto
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Santi Apostoli
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CAMPO DEI GESUITI
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San Silvestro
CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO
CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA
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Chiesa dei Gesuiti
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NOVE
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nal
LE
FONDAMENTE
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FOND.
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Santa Sofia
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DEL
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CORTE DELLE ANCORE
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Palazzo Grimani
San Beneto San Luca
CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO
RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO
SESTIERE
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Bacino Orseolo
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CALLE
SARTOR
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CAMPIELLO DEL SANSONI
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Sant’Aponal PERDON
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Canal Grande
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Santa Fosca
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CALLE
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CA
NA
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Santo Stefano
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Chiesa S. Maria Assunta
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CAMPO DI SAN VIO
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LA
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ZATTERE
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Hundertwasser' Garden
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PESTRIN
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CALLE
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NI
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Palazzo Pisani Gritti
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CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA
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CALLE SAVIO
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DEI
C.
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MANDO
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Teatro Malibran
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C. DEL
SALVADOR
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RIO
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SA
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FO
ER LE P
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SAN LEONARDO
San Leonardo
BIASIO
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LA
CAMPO SAN ROCCO
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San Trovaso FONDAMENTA
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Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione ZATTERE
FEM N TAthe accuracy of the information in this map, the publisher cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions or the consequences thereof. WHERE VENICE MAP - Editore: Where Italia srl. Supplemento di Where Venice - Reg. Trib. Milano No. 174, 28 CALLE June 2016 - Where Italia Srl, iscritto al ROC n. 20182 del 14 settembre 2010 - Direttore Responsabile: Andrea I A Jarach. info@wheremilan.com - www.where-venice.com. All rights reserved. Original Map: Urbanfile (www.urbanfile.org). Where Italia srl, via E. Biondi 1, 20154 Milano (Italy) © 2017. Whilst every care has been taken toEcheck AM CONVERT No part of this map may be reproduced without the permission of the publisher. Printed by Lazzati Industria Grafica srl - Casorate Sempione (VA). WHERE® magazine and WHERE® logo are registered trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications. ND
CALLE
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CANNAREGIO
CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO
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LISTA
CALLE
DE
CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA
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Sant'Eufemia
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Santa Maria DEI dei Miracoli MIRAC
RIO
Zitelle
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San Girolamo
LACA
CALLE
CALLE
DE
PONTE
FONDAMENTA
COCCO
BEMBO
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GRIMAN
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CAVALLI
CARBON
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CALLE
CORNER
DEL
EN
MULA
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NA
Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo
Sant'Alvise
CAMPO S A N T ' A LV I S E
ND
NE
FONDAMENTA
LA
FONDARIA
CAMPO SAN PANTALON
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FOND.
AL
Convento Delle Figlie Del Cuore Di Gesu'
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AM
RIO
SAN M AUR
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San Rocco
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CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA
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FO
ND
PA
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San Pantalon
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CALLE
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CA
San Simeone Profeta
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FO
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CALLE
CIMESIN
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CAMPO DEI CARMINI
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BIAG
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DI
FO
DE
AM
CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO
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Carmini
Santa Maria dei Carmini
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CAMPO SAN BESAGIO
S. Basilio
S. Antonio Di Padova
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LO
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BESAGIO
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CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO
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SCUOLA
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AN
NTI
TA
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CALLE
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CALLE
CALLE
CALLE
DE LA SACA
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RE
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MADONA
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San Geremia DI
LUNA
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CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN
San Sebastiano
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SABION
San Moisè
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CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL
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CALLE
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SA
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CALLE
XXII MARZO
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DEI
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AM
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CALLE
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CAMPO SAN MOISE’
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Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda
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CALLE
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
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SA
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DE CAMPO
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FONDAMENTA
CALLE
LAZZARETTO VECCHIO
VENIER
CALLE
B
CALLE
CORTE
Santa Maria del Giglio
Canal Grande 12
CAMPO DI SAN VIO
Giudecca Hilton
LOCANDE
CALLE
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CALLE
BEATE GIULIANA
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CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO CAMPO PISANI
CAPPUZZI
SAN CALLE CALLE
CAFETIE
CAOTORTA
CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI
San Maurizio
CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL
CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE
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DEL
CALLE
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DEI
LA MADONA
DE LA SACA
CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO
ISOLA SAN SPIRITO
CALLE
MAGAZEN
DEL
TA
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CORTE
SANT'ANDREA
FONDAMENTA
TERÀ
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
DEI LAVRANERI
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CCasa di Marco Polo
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CALLE
CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO
Santo Stefano
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CALLE
DEL
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CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ
DEL PISTOR
CALLE
ZATTERE
CALLE
LA
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CROSERA
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TOSCA
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TO
S
CALLE Correr, Museo Museum of St Mark's Square (Doge's Palace, Museo DELLA CHIESA Archeologico Nazionale, Monumental Rooms of the Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana), Ca' Rezzonico-Museum of 18th-Century Art, Museum of Palazzo SAC C A Mocenigo and Museum of Textiles and San Gerardo Costumes, Carlo Goldoni's House, Ca' Pesaro-International Gallery Oriental AofNModern B Art I A+ G I O Art Museum, Glass Museum in Murano, CAMPIELLO Lace Museum in Burano and Museum of Natural History. SAN GERARDO
DE
Ponte 8 dell'Accademia3 Gallerie dell'Accademia
CALLE
FONDAMENTA
FONDAMENTO
A
San Vidal
Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione
CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO
CROSER
LUCA SAN
FO
EN
TE
NUOVE CASE CORTE
CALLE
C. LAVADORI
TERÀ
TABACCHI
RIO
DE
BEATE GIULIANA
SACCA
FISOLA
LARGA
CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO
ISOLA SAN CLEMENTE
CAL
TERÀ
San Salvador
DEL
CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO
AM
B AT
RIO
DEI
Ferrovia
San Simeon Piccolo
CROCE
Giardino Papadopoli
PIAZZALE ROMA RIO
FABBRICA FONDAMENTA
CALLE CHIESA
ISOLA DELLE ROSE
CORTE DEL REMER
RIO
MARZAR
CALLE
ND
Palazzo Labia Parco Savorgnan Salone del Tiepolo
SCALZI
Ponte degli Scalzi
FONDAMENTA
CROCE
CALLE
CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI
DELLA
PONTE
Fontego
MAZZINI
CORTE
TEATRO
TA
Santa Maria di Nazareth
Sant'Andrea
SANT'ANDREA
NICOLO’ SAN
San Nicolò dei Mendicoli
CALLE
Giudecca Hilton FONDAMENTO
CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO
CALLE
VI
SARTORI RTORII RTOR
San Giovanni Grisostomo
LARGA
CALLE
EN
CAMPO SAN GEREMIA
CAVALLETTI
Ferrovia
Ferrovia
LA FO.
TERÀ
MARTA
Istituto Universitario Di Architettura
CALLE SAN BASILIO
San Gerardo
VI
dei Tedeschi 10
CALLE
AI
P.le Roma
Ponte della Costituzione
RIO
People Mover Venezia
SANTA FONDAMENTA
MATTA DI CA’
CALLE CASE NUOVE
BIAGIO
S. Servolo
CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON
SAN SALVADOR
Palazzo Nervi CAMPO MANINScattolin
AM
CANNAREGIO
di Cannaregio
PRIULI
Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia
People Mover Venezia
S A N TA
CAMPIELLO LONGHI
CALLE
AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO
SACCA
GR
CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO
Ponte di Rialto
CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA
FO
Canale
CAMPO SAFFA
CALLE
TRONCHETTO
di Sant'Alvise
Sensa
COLETTI
ND
FONDAMENTA
SAN
San Giobbe
DEL
SAN
Tempio Votivo Della Pace Di Venezia
San Giacomo di Rialto
Rialto
della
CARLO
Ponte dei Tre Archi
FONDAMENTA
NOVA
ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA
ISOLA LA GRAZIA
CAMPO DEI GESUITI ZEN
CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA
CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO
Rio
Rio
FOND.A
FO
SALIZADA
TEATRO
LARGA
CAMPIELLO DEL SCARLATTO
GIOBBE
S.ANDREA
PRIULI
CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA
CALLE PENITENTI
FOND.
CORTE DEL
"Villa Groggia" Monastero Carmelitane Scalze
IROLAMO SACCA SAN G
F O N D A M E N TA
TA’
CANNAREGIO
ENTA
Teatro Carlo Goldoni
ER
FONDAMENTA
MENTA
Rialto (Palazzo Cavalli)
B
Santa Maria delle Penitenti
FONDAM
NOVA
MULA DA RAMO
OLO
CALLE
LEO
LLE
VIA
Parco
LI
CAMPIELLO DE LA LAVANDER
A
CALLE
Palazzo Fortuny
NARISI FOND.
SAMU
Palazzo Loredan
LONGO
Giudecca Hilton
DA
DELLA
FOSC
O E UG
PESCHERIA
LA
TERÀ
FOND.
FONDAMENTA
MURANO
DA QUIRIZIO CALLE
CALL
CA
EL
ISOLA
CATERIN
Santa Sofia
STRA
DE
TRAGHET
MUSEUM PASS
S.
LLE
CRISTO DEL CALLE
VIVARINI
Chiesa di San Pietro Martire
BERTOLINI CALLE
Chiesa di San Michele in Isola
D
TRONCHETTO
FONDAM
San Silvestro
CAMPO SAN BENETO CALLE
CA
CAMPO SAN BERNARDO
CALLE
A. CALLE
CIPRIANO SAN
LE
People Mover Venezia
100 m
CALLE
San Beneto San Luca
11
Santa Maria degli Angeli
PARMENSE
CALLE
A
ITTICO
Fontego Palazzo Rava Dolfin Manin
Palazzo Grimani
de ran
CAMPO SANTO STEFANO
AI GESUATI
A combined ticket that offers access to all the permanent collections of Venice’s civic and affiliated museums. The Pass is valid for 6 months and allows one entry per museum site. Full price ticket: 24 euros.
DONZE
DEL
CAMPO SAN TROVASO
BONLINI
LA
CALLE
DA SALIZA
CARROZZ
al G
CRISTOFORO
SACCA
ISOLA SAN GIORGIO
VI
MERCATO
CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO
CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA
CORTE DELL’ALBERO
ELE
IA
E
LE
GNESE
ENTA
RAVANO
MURANO
TA’
Chiesa dei Gesuiti
VOLTI
S.Silvestro
DI SAN MARCO
VECCH
LEZZE
FONDAM
DEL
ER
VENEZIA
CATENE
CALLE
NI
RUGHETA
B
DIREZIONE
FONDA
CALLE
ETTO
CA’ CORTE
DE
CALLE
S. Samuele
Ca' Rezzonico
San Trovaso
I
CAMPIE DEL SANSOLLO
CAMPIELLO DEL SOL
GIANMARIA
VENINI
PAOLO
FONDAMENTA
LI
N U O VA I S O L A DEL TRONCHETTO
CAMPO DELLA PESCARIA
CAMPO DE LA BECARIE
MUTI
Sant’Aponal DEL
FALIER
OGNISANT
C
DE
TRAGH
DE
CA’
BOTA
ANE
CALLE
LA
ISOLA DELLE TRESSE Parcheggio Bus Turistici
CAMPO DE LE ERBE
STUA
C.
DEL
CALLE RAMO
PONTE
LA
CARAMP
EL
NOVE
SANTA
GON
CALLE
FOND.
E AL
LE
ORTES CALLE
D
SERENELLA
TE
Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana
CALLE
SESTIERE
S. Toma' SX
Palazzo Grassi San Samuele
15
CALLE
ZATTER
L LA
LE
PORTO MARGHERA
AMEN
ENTA
PARAN
CALLE DEL MAGAZEN
FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN
DE OGNISANTI
DE DE
DE
Accademia
Chiesa di Ognissanti
FONDAMENTA
OLIN
CARAMPANE
TERÀ
CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI
Sant'Angelo
Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo
CALLE BERNARDO
FODAM
ENTA
RIO
Can Palazzo Giustinian Persico
DEI PUTI
TIAN
CALLE DE LA CHIESA
CAMPO SAN BESAGIO
S. Basilio
TRAP
CAMPO SAN APONAL
Ca' Rezzonico San Barnaba
CA
Cimitero Nuovo
A
BAROVIER
RAM
PERDON
DORSODURO
BESA BESAGIO
Burano
LA
San Tomà
CAMPO DEI SQUELINI
L’AGNEL
CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI
A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA
The island of Burano is famous for its artisanal lace work and particular kind of biscuit. Don’t miss the Lace Museum.
DE
Palazzo Querini-Dubois
AR
COLORATA
San Felice
CAMPO SAN POLO
SC
ISOLA SAN GIACOMO IN PALUDE
STRADA
IN
CALLE
C.
CORTE DEL TEATRO
TER
CALLE
SEBAS SAN
SCALE
VIA
M E N TA
LLEO
Convento di San Francesco del Deserto
14
ISOLA DI TESSERA
MURANO ISOLA CAMPALTO
FOND
CALLE
RUGA
CALLE DELL'OLIO
SAN
DORSODURO
Torcello
DEL
M E N TA
O
DEL DESERTO
Parco San Giuliano
VI
San Cassiano
CALLE
DE VINCINI
C.
Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo
FONDA
RC
100 m
SAN FRANCESCO
ARINI
IA
d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro
ZANE
MA
BURANO
CONT
Abazia della Misericordia D
R
VEND
CALLE
CALLE CA’BON
BOLDO
CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO
O
DE
CAMPO SAN CASSAN
N
MA
DEL
TIOZZI
SA
FONDA
CIMITERO DEL
CALLE
IC
CALLE ALLE
SAN
R
L’ASEO
CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA
INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON
SPORCA CALLE PAZIENZE DE LE
SALIZADA ALIZADA
CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI
SCOAZZERA DE LA
CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN
San Sebastiano
AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO
LE PAZIENZE
CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL
I
CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO
C. DE
RIELO
LORENZO
Istituto Universitario Di Architettura
T ENT MENTA DAMEN ONDAM ON FFONDA
C. SAN
LARDON
RIO TERA’
I
CALLE
CAMPO DEI CARMINI
CANAL RIO TERA’
DIAN
L' ARZERE
GUAR
DE
LEE CALL
NTA
Angelo Raffaele
CALLE
Carmin
Santa Maria dei Carmini
TINTO
CALLE
FOMO
DE
del
VIA
CIMITERO
ER
CA'
DEI
SANTA
DEL
IS
ENTA
TA
Santa Fosca
CORTE DEL TIOZZI
Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta
ROSINA
DELLA
STRADA
DI
FONDAMENTA
STRADA
M
FON
AMEN
NA
TORCELLO
Museo Di Torcello
Chiesa di Santa Fosca
100 m
CATERINA
TA
STRADA
Chiesa di Santa Caterina
ISOLA CARBONERA
TA
onna
Orto
EN
S.Stae
CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI
CAMPO SAN TOMÀ
A
Rio
ALE
SAN POLO
CAMPO DEI FRARI
RA
RENIER
DEL
CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA
ROSS
San Nicolò dei Mendicoli
BRIAT
TORCELLO
ISOLA
ISOLA
MAZZORBETTO
MAZZORBO
C A M PA LT O MESTRE
AMEN
Mad
dell'
AM
TRON
OR
CALLE
CROSE
CALLE
CALLE
i I TA AMEN
FOND FO
DD
CAMPO SAN STIN
CALLE
CAMPO SAN PANTALON
NUOVO
I
FONDAME
TA
DE L’OGIO
DEL
RIO
CALLE CONTARINA
AMEN
DEI FONTEGHERI
CALLE
D
DAM
CCHIO CCHI VECCHIO
CALLE
PRETI
N
CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE
L
San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale
CALLE
DEL
TENT
C.
NA
FOND
Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni
MEZO
CA
NOVA
BARI
DEI
LE
DA
DEI
NI
CALLE
San Pantalon
MA
NIE
STRA
LARGA
TOLENTI
ON
BASEGO
LA
.DA
CALLE TRAGHETTO
C.
DEI
CAMPO SAN ROCCO
FONDAMENTA
RAGUSE
’ NICOLO SAN
I CALLE ORSETT
HI
CERERI
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
C.
DE
TOMÀ
7
TTO
S 16A N M I C H E L E DEI LAGHI
FO
CAMPO SAN BOLDO
OCHE
TERÀ
SAN
6
ia
À D E
La Maddalena
L’ISOLA
CALLE
RIO
Basilica dei Frari
TINTORE
icord
CALLE
OCHE
LATT
CALLE
Miser
FO de Servi N
IA
NA
ASC
DEI
MADONA
DE
DE LA VIDA
C.VENZA
LA
RIA
PANTAL
della
TER
CALLE DEL CIMITERO
SE
GAM
LA
FOND
SANTA
TERA’
CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO
CALLE ORSETTI
TO
DE
LACA
FONDA
te
Rio dei Tolentini
Rio
NICOLO’ CALLE SAN
A E M
BER
HIO
DEI
LA
San Rocco
Mun
eghe
CALLE
LL
LE
VECC
ONE
O
CAL
DE
N
le
SALIZAD
CALLE
Murano
SIME
CAZZIOLA
E
TA
LA
CALLE DE LA LACA
C.
CIMESI
N
de
O A SAN
FONDAMENTA
TA RIZZI FONDAMEN
DE
MARTA
NTA FONDAME
Birthplace of the lagoon, one a thriving town with 8,000 inhabitants, Torcello is today a semi-rural island with only 17 permanent residents and two medieval churches.
16
DE
ZO
RAMO
CIMESI
MINOTT
Magaz
en
PENSIER
Santa Maria della Salute
SAN BASILIO Murano, one of the three small islands of the CALLE Venetian arcipelago, is famous throught the world for its hand-blown glass (artisanal workshops still display glassmakers at work). Don’t miss the Glass Museum at Palazzo Giustinian.
15
HETT
DEI
TA PROCURATI NDAMENTA FONDAMEN
CALLE
Peggy Guggenheim Collection
Generally referred as ‘La Salute’ this jewel of 17th-century baroque CAMPIELLO LONGHI architecture proudly stands at an important point, almost opposite the Piazza san Marco, where the Grand Canal empties the Lagoon. MATTA DI CA’ CALLE Designed by Longhena, it was consutucted to honor the Virgin Mary for delivering Venice from the plague of 1630. www.basilicasalutevenezia.it CALLE CASE NUOVE
14
SAN
Rio Nuovo
CHI
TERÀ
OTTI AMEN
CANA
E
CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’
CALLE
CALLE
CAMPAZ CALLE
ENTA
IA
R
Civico Di Storia Naturale
San Giacomo dall'Orio
RUGA BELA
GARZ
CORT
LUNA
Rio
Del
RD
Rio
E
LA
DEI AMAI
RAMO
Rio
I
Palazzo Fortuny
L
DE CAMPO
San Nicola da Tolentino
FONDAM
RIO
The museum, boasting one of the most important collections of the 20th century art in Europe, hosts the personal collection of American heiress Peggy Guggenheim. www.guggenheim-venice.it
13
TRAG
EA TABAC
11
12
A
SANT'ANDR
TABACCHI
The oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal, it is lined on both sides by shops.
The museum boasts an extensive collection of pieces and materials commissioned by Mariano Fortuny for important projects: paintings, lighting systems, photography and ornate garments. www.fortuny-visitmuve.it
C.
C. LAVADORI
NUOVA
Rialto Bridge
NUOV
CALLE
10
Soranzo Cappello
CASE CORTE
CALLE
PIAZZALE ROMA TERÀ
TA FABBRICA FONDAMEN
Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola
RAMO
CAMPO NAZARIO SAURO
NTA FOND
ICO
Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo
CALLE CAZZA
CALLE SAVIO
RUGA VECCHIA
AME
NUOVE
CROC
Giardino Papadopoli
PAPADOPOLI
EA
BIASIO
DI
RIO
FOND
ER
CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA
BARI
E
CROCE
'ANDR
RIO
A
FONDAMENTA
Sant'Andrea
SANT
RIVA
LISTA
San Simeone Profeta
E LA
FON.
TERÀ
People Mover Venezia
MIS
RIO DIETRO TERÀ LA CHIESA
3
DEL REMER
ENTA
CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO
Palazzo Soranzo Capello
Giardino di Palazzo
15
AEROPORTO MARCO POLO BAGARON
FOND
della
CAMPO DEI MORI ENTA DEI MORI
FONDAM
TA
E DEL PISTO
San Marcuola
CAMPIELLO
FONDAM
CALL
Ferrovia
Ponte della Costituzione FO.
RIO
S A N TA
The Jewish ghetto
Riva de Biaso
I
LUNG
RTÀ
LIBE
Gallerie dell’Accademia
9
The first ever, it was established in 1516 in the sestiere of Cannaregio. Its magical, cocoon-like atmosphere brings to mind Sheakespeare’s play ‘The Merchant of Venice’.
EN
RIO
San Leonardo
SCALZ
DEI Ponte degli Scalzi
E
LA
DEL
8
The Gallerie host the most important collection of Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and the 18th centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo, and works by several important landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto and
AM
CALL
EONARDO
nde l Gra Cana
CALL
TE
PON
Known by the Venetians simply as ‘I Frari’, this landmark features 17 monumental altars and is the largest church in the city. This medieval monument in Gothic-Venetian style houses the tombs and funerary monuments of famous people including Titian, Monteverdi and Canova. www.basilicadeifrari.it
Guardi. TRONC Hwww.gallerieaccademia.it ETTO
SPA
TA
AMEN
Ferrovia
San Simeon Piccolo
Ferrovia
ND
I CA
D FOND
P.le Roma
DI
RIO
Santa Maria di Nazareth Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia
Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari
Madonna dell'Orto
MADONN
A DELL'OR
SAN LEONARDO
San Geremia
GNA A LIST
À TER
TTI
Chiesa and Scuola Grande di San Rocco
7
S. L R I O T E R À CAMPO
CAMPO SAN GEREMIA
ALLE
Teatro La Fenice
6
LER
SAVO
N
A RDIA
5
TA
Palazzo Labia Parco Savorgnan Salone del Tiepolo
CAV
ENTA
A
RGNA
RICO
AI
NS
Rio
FO
9 ER LE P
AMEN
MISE
LI
SE
Chiesa di San Michele in Isola
CAMPIELLO P I AV E
FONDAM
TA
Museo Ebraico CAL
FOND
LA
PRIU
Scala ETTO Contarini del Bovolo
EN
TO
Palazzo Nani
DE
LE
NCH
AM
CANNAREGIO
le diCANNA REGIO Cann aregio
CAL
TRO
ND
INE
CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO
MENTA
Cana
BE
CAMPO SAFFA
Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour, it has been for centuries Venice’s principal stage for world-class opera, music, ballet and theatre. www.teatrolafenice.it
100 m
ZZ
FONDA
SAN GIOB
A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and a palace, it was ITTICO TO MERCA built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco. The interiors are filled with NE People Mover Venezia numerous treasures. DIREZIO www.scuolagrandesanrocco.org
Where®Italia Editore www.whereitalia.com info@whereitalia.com hotel.relations@whereitalia.com
PU
FONDAMENTA
TA
San Giobbe
The architectural beauty of Palazzo Contarini and its external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell), combined with the view from the top, are well worth a visit. www.scalacontarinidelbovolo.com
Parcheggio Bus Turistici
CA
San Girolamo
LE
4
DEL
FO
LE
O
AMEN
CAL
A
People Mover Venezia
DE
AM
FOND
The main waterway in Venice - and the most beautiful ‘street’ in the world - it is lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels and other public buildings.
NOV
TA
OL
LLO
VENEZIA
Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo
Sant'Alvise
DEL
EN
PIAVE
AM
N G IR
CALLE
ND
SA
LARG
TA
C.
FO
EN
TE
CALLE
ER
AM
B AT
IAN
FORN
ND
IA
DEL
ISOLA DELLE TRESSE
A
TA
Ponte dei Tre Archi
CAMPIELLO DEL SCARLATTO
CAMPIELLO DE LA LAVANDER
Palazzo Ducale and the Bridge of Sighs
Formerly the residence of government centre of the Doges, Palazzo Ducale is a masterpiece of Gothic art, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. The ‘Ponte dei Sospiri’ is a Baroque bridge and one of Venice’s most romantic sights that can be accessed
N U O V Awhen I visiting S OPalazzo L ADucale. palazzoducale.visitmuve.it 3 D E L T R O NGrand C HCanal ETTO ISOL
EN
SEBASTIAN
E
Venice Map
St. Mark’s Basilica
2
AM
BRAGADIN
CALL
FO
ND
CAMPO S A N T ' A LV I S E
Sensa
COLETTI
FO
IO
The most important Catholic church in the city and one of the most prestigious monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1,000, while its famous polychrome façade is a 13th-century addition. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and other treasures. www.basilicasanmarco.it
di Sant'
Alvise
della
CARLO
AREG
CALLE
Rio
Rio
FOND.A
CANN
NTA
NTI
AMEN
TA FONDAMEVENIER
PENITE
FOND TA
1
FONDAMEN
LARGA
Santa Maria delle Penitenti
POINTS OF INTEREST
NUOVE
CALLE
’
Monastero "Villa Groggia" Carmelitane Scalze
ROLAMO SACCA SAN GI
F O N D A M E N TA
TA
NUOVE
ER
CASE
B
LA
Parco
LI
I CASE
LA
DELLE
EL
CALLE
D
FONDAMENTA
LE
L’ARCHIVIO
A
EREMITE
VI
Florence October 2018 48
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ENTERTAINMENT
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the guide
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Centro Lingustico Rotonda del Brunelleschi O
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Università degli Studi di Firenze
E
I
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Battistero di San Giovanni
Museo dell'Opera di Santa Maria del Fiore
Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore
Orator Santom D'aqu
Chiesa San Felicita
VI
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LU
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Palazzo Pitti
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Teatro Verdi
PIAZZ
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VIA
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Chiesa Evangelica Metodista
DE I NE RI
BO
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PIAZZA DI SANTA MARIA SOPR'ARNO
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Santi
Anfiteatro Romano di Firenze
DE LL E BR AC HE
DE I RU ST IC I
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Take advantage of your stay in Florence to enjoy this season’s latest offerings.
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Follow us on Instagram @where_florence
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Palazzo Strozzi hosts a retrospective about Marina Abramović and her 50-year career history
The best fashion designers for your high-end shopping.
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What you need to know to enjoy the autumn, Anfiteatro delle Cascine in the city and in the hills G IO
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The Central Market is a genuine institution for lovers of good food, a sort of modern “agora” for gourmets
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DUOMO AND CUPOLA Completed in 1436, at the time the Duomo in Florence was the largest Christian church in the world. Today the religious building, the official name of which is “Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore”, is third in terms of dimensions after St. Peter’s in Rome and St. Paul’s Cathedral in London. Brunelleschi’s Dome, still the tallest construction in the city, is a symbol known all over the world. 1
CAMPANILE DI GIOTTO 84.70 metres high and around 15 wide, the Giotto’s bell tower is one of the four main components of the complex of Santa Maria del Fiore. Lined with white, red and green marble, the majestic square-based bell tower, designed by Giotto in 1334, can be visited by climbing no less than 414 stairs up to the top, from where you can enjoy extraordinary views of Brunelleschi’s Dome. 3
BATTISTERO The Baptistery of St. John the Baptist is characterised by an octagonal plan, lined with a dome of eight segments, covered by a pyramid roof. The outside is decorated with white marble from Carrara and green marble from Prato, characteristics of the Florentine architecture of the Romanesque period. 2
PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA AND PALAZZO VECCHIO This is the central square of Florence, the seat of civil power and social heart of the city. Facing onto it are Palazzo Vecchio (the seat of the Municipal Council of Florence), the splendid Loggia della Signoria, the Tribunale della Mercanzia, Palazzo Uguccioni and Palazzo delle Assicurazioni Generali. Also prominent in the
4 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I O C TO B E R 2018
square are the Fountain of Neptune and a series of statues of Renaissance origin, representing one of the most important sculptural cycles in the world. The most famous is certainly Michelangelo’s David (this is a copy, whereas the original is conserved in the Galleria dell’Accademia). 4 GALLERIA DEGLI UFFIZI One of the most famous museums in the world on account of its extraordinary collections of ancient sculptures and paintings (from the Middle Ages to the modern age). The Gallery occupies the first and second floors of the large building erected between 1560 and 1580 based on a project by Giorgio Vasari 5 PONTE VECCHIO The official date of foundation of the current Ponte Vecchio is given as 1345. For the entire
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MORE AT PAGE 52 MAP PAGES 62-63 SAN MINIATO AL MONTE The Abbey of San Miniato al Monte is a medieval religious building situated at one of the highest panoramic points in Florence. The most spectacular access is gained via the monumental flight of steps. The outside of the church is decorated with green and white marble, typical of Florentine Romanesque, while the interior, which is unusual and of great beauty, boasts one of the city’s best conserved original floors. 10
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MERCATO CENTRALE Built at the end of the 19th century, the Central Market is a building of a certain architectural merit. The project was entrusted to Giuseppe Mengoni, the architect of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele in Milan, who was inspired by Les Halles in Paris. Today, a point of reference for informal but good quality cuisine for both Florentines and tourists. 11 SANTA CROCE One of the “great basilicas” in Florence, a point of reference of the Franciscan order. Giotto painted some of his great masterpieces here and the French writer Stendhal experienced that profound artistic agitation that has been known since then as the “Stendhal syndrome”. The basilica contains the monumental sepulchres of Michelangelo, Galileo and Machiavelli. 12
Middle Ages the bridge hosted greengrocers’, fishmongers’ and butchers’ shops, who used the river to dispose of their waste in a hurry. At the end of the 16th century, however, when it became the “noble” zone of the city, the goldsmiths and jewellers started to arrive, and they have been there uninterruptedly to this day. 6 CORRIDOIO VASARIANO The Vasari Corridor is a raised walkway connecting Ponte Vecchio with Palazzo Pitti. It is a rather narrow passage the entrance to which is at the beginning of the second corridor of the Uffizi Gallery; it then stretches along the Arno, over the Ponte Vecchio, finally arriving at Palazzo Pitti. It was built in 1565 by the great Florentine architect Giorgio Vasari. On display along the Corridor are over 1000 paintings. 7
PALAZZO PITTI AND GIARDINO DI BOBOLI The symbol of wealth and power, the building was inhabited by the Medici, then by the Habsburg-Lorraines and, after the Unity of Italy, by the Savoy family. The original architecture dates back to the 15th century and “Pitti” is the surname of its first owner. The building is located Oltrarno, at the foot of Boboli Hill. The Boboli Gardens are one of the most important examples of Italian-style gardens in the world. 8 PIAZZALE MICHELANGELO This is the most famous and appreciated panoramic point in Florence, with its views seen all over the world in million of postcards and reproductions. The design of the square dates back to 1869, when Florence was capital of Italy. Dedicated to the city’s most famous artist, the square has bronze copies of some of Michelangelo’s most famous sculptures. 9
SANTA MARIA NOVELLA A point of reference of the Dominican order, the church, with its elegant façade by Leon Battista Alberti, is a harmonious synthesis of Gothic and Renaissance styles. It hosts exceptional works of art by Masaccio, Giotto, Brunelleschi, Filippino Lippi, Domenico Ghirlandaio and Paolo Uccello. 13 SANTO SPIRITO A point of reference of the Augustinian order. The church has given its name to the entire surrounding neighbourhood, “Borgo Santo Spirito”. A jewel of Renaissance architecture, the church was the last great project by Filippo Brunelleschi. 14 SAN LORENZO One of the “great basilicas” of Florence, founded, according to the tradition, by Saint Ambrose, the first bishop of Milan, in the 4th century AD. Its current appearance, however, is the result of the last major reconstruction work that took place in the 15th century at the wishes of the Medici and under the direction of the great architect Filippo Brunelleschi. 15 w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 5
WHERE NOW | HOT DATES OCTOBER
Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating Italian traditions, art and music or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates.
ENTERTAINMENT
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“VOLARE, OH, OH…”
►For those who can’t help being OCTOBER OCTOBER seduced by the magic of those silent giants of the air, the Hot-Air Balloon Festival is perfect. For two successive weekends (13-14 October and 20-21 October) at the Ippodromo del Visarno, it will be possible to try your hand at anchored flights (on board a hot-air balloon securely anchored to the ground) or free flights (taking off from San Casciano in Val di Pesa every morning at 8am), and to witness the extraordinary spectacle offered by balloons in flight. But the real spectacle is after sunset: illuminated hot-air balloons, inflated simultaneously to the rhythm of music, are raised into flight like so many coloured light bulbs dotting the starry sky.
Hot-Air Balloon Festival Ippodromo del Visarno. Piazzale delle Cascine, 29 9am-10pm www.festivaldellemongolfiere.it
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OCTOBER
ROCK
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THE VIOLIN THAT SUCCEEDS IN MAKING VIVALDI DANCE
Handsome, talented and famous: David Christian Bongartz, better known as David Garrett, arrives in Florence with his band and his OCTOBER “Explosive-Live” tour. Composer, virtuoso violinist (he plays a Stradivarius and a Guadagnini), much loved by great conductors such as Zubin Mehta and Daniel Barenboim, he is very famous for his repertoire of rock covers readapted for orchestra, with the violin taking the place of the great guitar playing of Brian May, Angus Young, Slash, Kirk Hammett, Jimmy Page or Kurt Cobain, and for his rock arrangements of popular classics such as Beethoven’s “Fifth” or Vivaldi’s “Summer”. Wild dancing and fun guaranteed. David Garrett & His Band Nelson Mandela Forum. Piazza Enrico Berlinguer #garrettfi18 - www.mandelaforum.it - www.bitconcerti.it
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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES CLASSICAL
EXHIBITION UNTIL
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▼There is time until midmonth to visit the impressive anthological exhibition devoted OCTOBER to Eliseo Mattiacci - pioneer of the Italian avant-garde of the late 1960s - at Forte del Belvedere, which is open as it is every summer to host exhibitions by major contemporary artists. This year the spaces of the fortress play host to twenty large sculptures distributed both outdoors, where the large cosmic-astronomic inspired steel works are arranged in the ample terraced gardens, and inside the Villa. A fine opportunity, before the winter closure, for a visit to this magnificent sixteenth-century villa, from where you can enjoy some of the best views of Florence.
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OCTOBER
WHEN MUSIC MARRIES ART ▲The season of the Florentine Chamber Orchestra takes place mostly in enchanting locations in the city, unique sites in terms of their historical and artistic value, which, along with the magic of the music, offer irresistible atmospheres such as the church and museum of Orsammichele, the National Museum of the Bargello, the courtyard of Palazzo Strozzi, the Badia Fiorentina or the Auditorium of Santo Stefano at the Ponte Vecchio. For these two concerts, the Cenacolo (refectory) of the Basilica of Santa Croce has been chosen, with its imposing frescoed wall, a fourteenth-century work by Taddeo Gaddi, serving as the backdrop for the orchestra. The programme for the evening envisages music by Portera, Mendelssohn and Bizet. Maestro Giuseppe Lanzetta conducts, solo pianoforte Bruno Canino.
Orchestra da Camera Fiorentina Cenacolo di Santa Croce. Piazza Santa Croce, 16 Concert begins 9pm. www.orchestrafiorentina.it
FAIR
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FRAGILE BEAUTY
Every year the International Fair of Ceramics takes place in the spectacular setting of the beautiful Piazza della Santissima OCTOBER SEPTEMBER OCTOBER Annunziata, a masterpiece of Renaissance architecture, offering the best of artisan production from all over the world. For two days you can stroll among the potters’ stalls and admire unique highquality objects produced by experience and tradition. A special opportunity to acquire a rare, beautiful object. Fiera Internazionale della Ceramica Piazza della Santissima Annunziata 9am-7pm www.facebook.com/fieradellaceramicafirenze
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COSMIC MEASUREMENTS
Gong. Forte Belvedere. Via di San Leonardo, 1 www.museifirenze.it
OCTOBER CELEBRATION
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A TOAST TO ROSSINI
►For the 150th anniversary of the death of the great musician Gioachino Rossini (1792-1868), Florence too is preparing for the celebrations. Rossini, born in Pesaro, is much loved by the OCTOBER Florentines, who after his death in Paris insisted that the government bring him back to his mother country, paid taxes voluntarily to pay for his funeral monument in Santa Croce and named the city’s band after him. And it is precisely the Filarmonica Rossini that is dedicating a day to the great Florentine maestro: music in the square of the Basilica of Santa Croce (3pm) and, at aperitif time (6.30pm), grand gourmet finale with a toast.
Rossini 150°! Hommage Au Compositeur Piazza Santa Croce. Starting from 3pm estatefiorentina.it/events/rossini-150-hommage-au-compositeur www.filarmonicarossini.it
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OUT OF TOWN
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THE MOST BEAUTIFUL KNIVES
►Scarperia - one of the “most beautiful towns in Italy”, OCTOBER the location of the Mugello OCTOBER international autodrome has long been a famous centre for the hand-crafted production of knives, and also hosts a curious and fascinating “Museum of Knives”. The name of the Tuscan town is an international brand in cutlery today, celebrated by the Fair and Market of Custom Knives that takes place in October in the streets of the town. You must not miss the ancient Bottega del Coltellinaio, where you can observe and participate - with the help of an experienced cutler - in the construction of your very own knife using ancient tools.
30° Mostra Mercato del Coltello Custom Scarperia (1 hour from Florence) www.prolocoscarperia.it w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 9
WHERE NOW | FOCUS
Wine experience If you are a wine lover, autumn is the right season to visit wine bars, wine cellars and wine-growing and producing companies in Florence, the Chianti Classico and the Chianti area south of Florence, among the best known wine-producing regions in the world. BY CHIARA ZACCARELLI
Chiara Zaccarelli Travel Editor Where ® Italia
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ave you planned a trip to Florence and the surrounding area in October? A good idea, because in autumn Tuscany truly offers the best of itself: the temperatures are still mild and nature offers a kaleidoscope of colours, perfumes and unforgettable tastes. It is the best time to taste the fruits of the land for which the region is famous: mushrooms, olives, chestnuts and - of course - wine! The grape harvest, which traditionally starts in late August with white grapes such as Pinot and Chardonnay and continues in September and October with the collection of autochthonous red grapes such as Sangiovese and Montepulciano, is now over almost everywhere, but the festivals, tastings, events and shows associated with the nectar of Bacchus are in full ferment (to remain with the metaphor). Whether you have the possibility of moving around the nearby Chianti for a trip out-of-town, with visits to vineyards and wine cellars, or you decide to stay in Florence, you have dozens of opportunities to transform your passion for wine into a genuine wine experience.
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STAYING IN THE CITY If you do not want to or cannot move away from Florence, no worries: in the city too you can immerse yourself in wine-producing culture and participate in excellent wine tastings. It is no coincidence, after all, that it is precisely here that the Enoteca Pinchiorri is based; it is a three-star Michelin restaurant, in whose wine cellar the best wines on the worldwide panorama are stored. There are dozens of events on oenological themes programmed every evening in Florence, including those organised by the ‘God Save the Wine’ travelling multimedia festival in the city’s hotels and venues (godsavethewine.com). The more traditionalist among you will find a myriad of popular taverns and wine bars with the most prestigious labels in the historic centre of Florence. But beware, because, as often happens, tourist traps are often lurking around the corner. Here is our selection to ensure you can proceed securely. Le Volpi e L’Uva is a genuine institution in the city, thanks also to its privileged position, a stone’s throw from the Ponte Vecchio. Here you can find mainly Italian and French wines with a particular attention devoted to small-scale producers. Great care is also taken in the choice of the food to combine with the wines, with specialty cheeses, cold cuts and bread by local producers (www.levolpieluva.com). Again in the Ponte Vecchio area we find Obsequium, not to be missed if you are lovers of the sparkling varieties: with Champagne, Franciacorta, Trento DOC and many high-quality labels you will be spoiled for choice. Here it is possible to choose from among various wine tasting proposals: from classic tastings with excellent Tuscan products to the tasting of the great reds, and for the more demanding Obsequium offers a guided tasting service in your home for both private citizens and hotels (www.obsequium.it). Remaining on the theme of prestigious locations (but not touristy ones), Pitti Gola & Cantina is located precisely in Piazza Pitti. This small wine bar with its walls carpeted with THE PERFECT APPETIZERS Wine and “crostini” are one of the tastiest appetizers for you to try in Tuscany: slices of rustic bread, toasted and covered with olives, cheeses or salamis, are marvellously combined with the most genuine red wines from the region. This feast of flavours is the magic formula of many eating places, including “Signorvino”, a wine bar and restaurant a few yards from the Ponte Vecchio, established in 2012 from an idea by Sandro Veronesi, President of the Calzedonia fashion group. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 11
WHERE NOW | FOCUS
Wine? Not only to drink It is now well-known that the grape is rich in organic acids and mineral salts that perform a beneficial action on the skin, with antioxidant and anti-ageing effects. Wine therapy is one of the most fashionable trends in the world of wellbeing, and bathing in must, already practised by the ancient Greeks and Romans, is becoming increasingly widespread in beauty centres and spas. In Tuscany there are many wine therapy centres. At Castelnuovo Berardenga there is the Borgo San Felice estate (www. borgosanfelice.it), where they wrap you in pure must and then immerse you in an effervescent bath of wine essences, while at Gaiole in Chianti, at the Castellare de’ Noveschi, you sit in a real tub, situated in the ancient wine cellars, surrounded by fragrances of wine, blackberry, strawberry, rose, violet or orange..
bottles is endowed with Tuscan, Piedmontese, Venetian, Marche and Sicilian DOCG wines, with a particular preference for Nebbiolo and Sangiovese, combined with a few select, characterful dishes (pittigolaecantina.com). Near the Market of San Lorenzo is La Divina Enoteca, a distinctive venue established on the site of a historic shop specialising in the sale of dried salted cod, part of the Carrara
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marble furnishings of which still remain in existence today, including 4 marble basins and 4 mascarons, from the mouths of which water still gushes out. Here you can choose from among over 500 labels of wines from all over the world, ranging throughout the national territory but focusing in particular on small-scale local producers (www.ladivinaenoteca.it). A stone’s throw from the Cathedral is the Enoteca Alessi, which boasts municipal recognition as an “Esercizio Storico Fiorentino” and was opened in 1952 by the family of the same name. Surrounded by its ancient vaults and wooden beams, you can enjoy a glass of wine accompanied by a salami and cheese board. The wine cellar, measuring around 300 sq.m., holds more than 2500 labels from Italy, obviously prevalently Tuscan (enotecaalessi.it). THE WINE ROAD The Chianti Classico Wine Road connects Florence with Siena and winds its way through a vast territory characterised by vineyards, olive-groves and historic wine cellars, passing through numerous small medieval towns. To visit this picture-postcard landscape, you can join one of the many organised theme tours (ask your concierge) or reach the Chianti area independently by hiring a car. If you want to visit the wine cellars independently but do not want to get behind the wheel, you should know that some locations are reachable by bus, departing from the centre of Florence. Greve in Chianti, for instance, is reachable from Florence with a bus departing from Santa Maria Novella station. It takes
around an hour, but you can pass the time by looking through the window at the marvellous landscape that winds its way along the charming Via Chiantigiana. Greve is one of the most famous localities in Chianti where, before starting to visit the wine cellars, you must not miss Montefioralle Castle, the current appearance of which is sixteenthcentury but is believed to date back to EtruscoRoman times. Going from castle to castle, begin your oenological visit from Verrazzano Castle, which stands in a panoramic position overlooking the Val di Greve. Here, in 1485, Giovanni Verrazzano was born, the discoverer of New York Bay who gave his name to the famous bridge. The ancient wine cellars of the castle date back to the 16th century, and when you visit them, surrounded by the perfumes of the oak barrels, you enter the heart of the castle, where the vintages of the best years starting from 1924 are stored. Here, in addition to exploring the wine cellars and the estate and tasting the wine, it is also possible to stay overnight (www.verrazzano.com). Vicchiomaggio Castle is also a famous winery, whose estate stretches for 140 hectares, of which 33 cultivated as vineyards. It is Sangiovese that stands out among the grape varieties cultivated; Sangiovese is fundamental for the production of Chianti Classico, but other vines are also present from international varieties such as Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Here too, before or after the tasting, you can stay overnight (and bathe in the magnificent swimming pool with its views of the Chianti - www.vicchiomaggio.it). Another town that is easily reachable by bus from the centre of Florence is Grassina (to be
Borgo San Felice
precise, there are 14 km separating it from the city), where you can visit the Villa Medicea di Lilliano, its wine cellars and olive-groves, without forgetting the splendid terrace with views of Florence. Here for more than two centuries the Malenchini family has mainly cultivated Sangiovese, a typical grape of Chianti, in addition to vines such as Canaiolo, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. As well as immersing yourself in the culture of wine, you will have the possibility of gaining unique experiences, such as an exciting historical tour of the villa, guided by one of the current owners, or the cooking courses, which use organic products from the local markets or from the estate itself (medicivilla.com). If you have a car available, you can delve more deeply into the Tuscan countryside and visit the most famous and emblazoned wine cellars in the area. “Emblazoned” because in Tuscany many of the most renowned wine-producing companies belong to ancient noble families. In the municipality of Gaiole, in the heart of Chianti Classico, for instance, there is the Tenuta Perano, belonging to the Frescobaldi Marquises, a Florentine family dedicated to the production of wine for 700 years now, whose particularities are the vineyards situated in a unique, privileged location, in a natural amphitheatre 500 metres above sea level, an altitude almost at the upper limit for the cultivation of red wine (www.frescobaldi.com). Again at Gaiole we find Brolio Castle, dating back to the Early Middle Ages. In a succession of different shades, amid winding hills, valleys and oak and chestnut woods, the castle towers at the centre of the grounds of the Azienda Ricasoli, the most extensive in the area, with its total of
Cantina Antinori nel Chianti
1,200 hectares, of which 235 vineyards. Here Bettino Ricasoli was born, the famous politician who in 1872 perfected the official formula for Chianti wine (7/10 Sangiovese 2/10 Canaiolo and 1/10 Malvasia). Over time this recipe has been radically changed, even though Sangiovese remains obligatory for at least 80% of the content, while the remaining 20% can be from autochthonous or international red berry vines, such as Merlot or Cabernet. Perhaps the Baron did not appreciate this change, because it would seem that to this day his ghost, dressed in black and astride a horse, still terrorises those who find themselves at night in the park of the castle. Another curiosity: part of the 1996 film “Stealing Beauty” by Bernard Bertolucci, starring a young Liv Tyler, was filmed inside the Ricasoli estate (ricasoli.com).
Finally, in the locality of Bargino in San Casciano Val di Pesa, the Cantina Antinori nel Chianti Classico welcomes you, with its ultramodern architecture and all the ancient know-how of the Antinori Marquises. Around 45 minutes by car from Florence, this low environmental impact and high energy-saving structure overlooks the surrounding countryside where Sangiovese is cultivated (together with the other grape varieties that have been combined with it historically). Here it is possible to gain a sensory experience, immersing yourself in an itinerary that is architectural, taste-oriented and emotional at the same time, revealing the majesty of the wine cellar and the elegance of the wines of the Antinori family (www.antinori.it/it/tenute). » See also FOOD&WINE section, pages 38-39.
A day as a sommelier The Italian Sommeliers Association (FISAR) is organising three days dedicated to the culture of wine, open not only to professionals from the sector but to all enthusiasts. In the splendid indoor “vineyard” of Stazione Leopolda - the first railway station in Florence, now a venue for meetings, congresses and events - wine in all its forms and tones is the protagonist with over 150 tasting tables that will welcome wine lovers for the entire duration of the festival, bringing together important labels and small wine-producing firms for you to discover under the guidance of the sommeliers. There will also be opportunities for cooking shows with leading chefs. Vinoè 2018 | 27-28-29 October - Stazione Leopolda. Viale Fratelli Rosselli, 5. www.vinoe.it
WHERE NOW | SIGHTSEEING
PHOTOS © SHUTTERSTOCK
Discovering Ponte Vecchio
It is one of the undisputed symbols of Florence and, as such, is one of the most photographed sites in the world. Here are some details so you can get to know it better. B Y A M A L A N G E L O T T I
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protruding over the river. Then, grafted onto the high part of the bridge is the Vasari Corridor, the strategic passageway that was built at the wishes of Cosimo de’ Medici in 1565 to connect the administrative buildings to his private residence, without exposing the sovereign to any danger.
ORIGINAL ARCHITECTURE The bridge is characterised by a solution with lowered arches, never previously seen, which makes it particularly stable and its profile unmistakable. From the very beginning, it was understood to be a natural continuation of the road, and so it has shops and porticos along both sides facing towards the centre, each with a single shop window closed by strong wooden doors, and often with a picturesque backroom
A UNIQUE HISTORY The change of identity of the zone during the Renaissance is due precisely to the Vasari Corridor. The traditional shops of greengrocers, butchers and fishmongers, who had a preference for the bridge on account of the ease with which they could throw their waste into the river, were evicted en bloc: it was preferred to offer the sovereign goldsmiths’ and jewellers’ shops, which were more appropriate for his gaze (and his nose), and they have continued their presence there ever since for the pleasure of tourists. Since then, Ponte Vecchio has been an assiduous witness – and sometimes a protagonist – of the history of the city:
irst of all, it must be said that Ponte Vecchio (literally “Old Bridge”) is indeed “old”. The first to identify a ford in the Arno were the Etruscans. The Roman founders of the village of “Florentia” built a wood and stone bridge there, the forerunner of the current one, which dates back to around 1345. Since then, with all the various restorations and modifications, this passage across the Arno has remained in its place, actively participating in the history of the city.
considering it a source of great pride, Mussolini invited Hitler there in 1938, opening up new larger, more panoramic windows for his benefit. One rather romanticised version claims that Hitler himself, cherishing the memory of such beauty, would decide to save the bridge from the terrible bombing campaigns of 1944. Unfortunately, the historical reconstruction seems to prove that this merit cannot be ascribed to the German dictator. LUXURY SHOPPING For more than four hundred years, Ponte Vecchio has therefore been inhabited by artisans creating admirable gold and silver objects. Still today, this remains the commercial vocation of the neighbourhood, which is nevertheless not lacking in other luxury trades, starting with artisan leather goods. Obviously, the accesses and areas surrounding the Bridge, between via Por Santa Maria and Lungarno degli Archibusieri on one side, and between Borgo San Jacopo and via de’ Guicciardini on the other, are also swarming with points of interest and high-quality shops. Bear in mind, however,
that sometimes you need only turn into an unknown alley to get away from the bustling crowds and enjoy a carefree stroll. UNDER THE BRIDGE Finally, you should know that there is also life under the bridge: the historic Società
Canottieri Firenze, as well as bringing together sporting rowers, is a point of reference for the activities that take place on the banks of the river. Today, the Circle also offers a stupendous location for aperitifs, lunches and dinners.
Vasari Corridor
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WHERE NOW | SHOPPING
GIFT
GUIDE Take advantage of a stroll through Florence to treat yourself to an accessory, a fragrance, a jewel or some other alluring detail of style. Where ® brings you a pick of the best seasonal trends and guarantees that you won’t leave empty-handed! Giulia Minero Lifestyle & News Editor Where ® Italia
► BORSALINO This narrow brimmed hat from the fall-winter collection recalls the shapes of more traditional Borsalino shapes with, however, re-engineered proportions. Crafted in two-tone blue felt, it features a hatband in two different shades that conjure up a play of light and shadows. www.borsalino.com
◄ EMILIO PUCCI For the FW season 2018-2019, in both accessories and clothes the refinement of Emilio Pucci combines with functionality: shopping bags with an essential style, perfect to match the line of the dresses, are a real ode to colour. www.emiliopucci.com
▼ SALVATORE FERRAGAMO The butter-soft calf leather slip-on loafers with tassels, a rubber sole and metal finishes change the rules of footwear. No longer just a simple outfit accessory, but a versatile player that works from desk to a dinner date. www.ferragamo.com
▲ ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ This jewel necklace from the ‘Ciniglia’ collection is inspired by the earthy colours of nature. The diverse optical effects of its geometric decorations in synthetic resin reference the thousand nuances of autumn leaves. www.angelacaputi.com
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►MICHAEL KORS Designed as a 24/7, work-to-weekend bag, the ‘Whitney’ family from MICHAEL Michael Kors combines a sophisticated silhouette with on-the-go versatility. For the fall fashion season, don’t miss the ‘Tweed’ version: a luxe option for every day or an evening out, it is designed in smooth leather with a textural black-and-white tweed front. www.michaelkors.it
▲ SWAROVSKI This new, versatile pendant is part of the ‘Zodiac’ collection. Crafted in rhodium-plated metal, it glitters with a pavé embellished symbol representing the horoscope sign Taurus. The central medallion and the pear-shaped stone can be removed allowing you to style your own narrative. www.swarovski.com
►CLARKS The latest evolution of the iconic ‘Trigenic’ model, a shoe that combines style and functionality and that in this new version enhances freedom of movement. Ergonomic, with adaptable padding and soft, flexible upper, this shoe allows the utmost naturalness in movement. www.clarks.eu
◄ SHISEIDO
‘Aura Pink’ is one of the 8 shades of the new ‘CheekPowder’, a hybrid formula combining blush and highlighter with an innovative formula. High pigmentation with a blend of spherical powders, silicone oils and softeners, these are some of the key characteristics of this product, which marks a new era for Shiseido makeup. www.shiseido.it
▲ PINEIDER The ‘La Grande Bellezza’ fountain pen encapsulates over 30 years of experience. The 2018 collection is dedicated to hard or emi-precious stones with effects and colours that recall the gems that in the past were imitated using celluloid. The 14 kt gold nib is ultra flexible. www.pineider.com
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PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK
WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN
Not just Florence If Florence offers tourists an unrivalled cultural and historical heritage, its surrounding area no less so. Here are some suggestions for trips outside the city that are able to satisfy any need. For more details ask your concierge. By Chiara Zaccarelli
Chiara Zaccarelli Travel Editor Where ® Italia
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f you choose Florence as your base, the good news is that around an hour away by train, bus or car you will find UNESCO heritage cities of art, dreamy countryside, natural thermal springs, medieval towns and abbeys and kilometres of coastline for bathers. The only problem is in having to make a choice, particularly if you have just a few days available. CITIES OF ART If you love cities of art then you’ve chosen the right region. Indeed, within an hour’s range from the Tuscan regional capital there are architectural wonders that will catapult you into medieval and Renaissance Tuscany. About an hour by train from Florence is Lucca, one of Tuscany’s most fascinating historic centres, surrounded by ancient
Tuscany’s soft rolling hills
16th-century walls, today still practically fully intact and walkable in their entirely. You can cycle along the tree-lined walls, stop for a tasty ice cream or simply cool down on the benches. The picturesque historic centre has remained almost intact, including countless medieval churches, which have earned Lucca the nickname of “city of the 100 churches”, Renaissance squares and buildings and Roman amphitheatres. The famous Leaning Tower of Pisa can also be easily reached from Florence in about an hour by train. Loved by tourists from all over the world for its peculiar tilt, the Tower of Pisa is in reality the bell tower of the Cathedral, which stands in a unique monumental context, declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site: Piazza dei Miracoli. Here, after the unmissable ascent of the Tower, you can visit the Cathedral itself, the Baptistery,
the Cemetery, the Palazzo dell’Opera of the Cathedral and the Sinopie Museum. Once you’ve completed your visit to this unbelievable square, if you have a little time left, you can relax with a walk along the Arno to the historic centre and Piazza dei Cavalieri, the political fulcrum of medieval Pisa. Facing onto the square is Palazzo della Carovana, with graffiti by Giorgio Vasari, which today houses the Scuola Normale Superiore, one of the most prestigious universities in the world. With a brief trip by coach from Florence (looking at the idyllic landscape of the Tuscan countryside through the window) you reach Siena, one of the most loved medieval centres in Italy, which is also included on the UNESCO World Heritage List. The city’s nerve centre is Piazza del Campo, which is renowned for its unique shell shape, for its architectural integrity, and because twice a year (2 July and 16 August) it holds the Palio di Siena, a horse race that is of fundamental importance for the Sienese, which sees the seventeen historic districts that comprise the city compete against each other. The square is dominated by a series of buildings of inestimable historical and architectural value, including the 14th-century Palazzo Pubblico and the attached Torre del Mangia, with its characteristic red colour, the Cappella di Piazza, a marble tabernacle with splendid sculptures, the Loggia della Mercanzia and Palazzo Sansedoni. But Siena
PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK
Siena
San Gimignano Nature at its wildest in the area of the Crete Senesi, the medieval towns with their towers standing out among the green hills and the crowds in Piazza del Campo on the occasion of the traditional Palio di Siena (2 July and 16 August). This is Tuscany too.
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is not just Piazza del Campo: lose yourself along the picturesque medieval alleys, with their succession of churches, palaces and shops where you can purchase the local hand-crafted goods or taste the traditional panforte, the typical Sienese spiced bread with almonds, candied fruit and pepper. And a few kilometres from Siena, another town declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO awaits you with its towers and its characteristic medieval architecture. It is the unmissable San Gimignano, reachable by coach from Siena and Florence and situated in the heart of the Tuscan countryside. Walking round this small town, the 13th / 14th-century appearance of which is still practically unchanged, is almost like going back in time. San Gimignano is famous above all for its medieval towers, which were as many as 72 at one time and today are just fifteen, including some in ruins and without their tops but still visible as part of the urban fabric. Nevertheless, the effect of arriving from the countryside and seeing the outline of the town emerge still leaves you breathless.
LUGANO MENDRISIO
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WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN
Greve in Chianti
olive groves and cypress trees in the surreal peacefulness of the Chianti hills? Let’s now leave this idyllic setting and move towards a wilder, more barren territory, that of the Crete Senesi. Located in the area south-east of Siena, the crete are clay hills, the result of the continuous erosion of the sea sediments that covered the zone millions of years ago. These bare, softly undulating hills, with their characteristic grey-blue colour and almost lunar appearance, are dotted with cypresses and farmhouses and still encapsulate the essence of the most authentic Tuscany; they are far removed from the tourist routes, rich in traces and remains of ancient civilisations, picturesque medieval towns and culinary festivals (of which that of the white truffle, typical of the zone, stands out in particular).
BERGAMO BRESCIA
NATURALISTIC ITINERARIES Florence is surrounded by hills, gentle valleys and luxuriant vineyards. Climbing them is easy, both on foot (if you are keen on trekking then it will just be a stroll for you) and on the numerous buses departing from the city centre. Over the years the hill of Fiesole has been the source of inspiration for artists, spiritual figures, noble families, writers and entrepreneurs. From this privileged observatory, dotted with villas, museums, archaeological excavations, churches and convents, you can enjoy beautiful views of Florence and the Florentine countryside. If you love panoramas, another unmissable spot is the small town of Settignano, this too easy to reach from the city centre; in the past it has been chosen as a residence by painter Telemaco Signorini, poet Gabriele d’Annunzio and writer Mark Twain, all fascinated by its gentle hills and calm atmosphere. The very famous Chianti zone, renowned for its vineyards, verdant valleys, rows of cypresses, olive groves, towns and abbeys built on hilltops, is around half an hour by car from the centre of Florence. If you are lucky enough to be there between September and November you can witness two key events for the economy and culture of the territory: the harvesting of grapes and olives. Can you think of anything more romantic than enjoying a picnic on a warm late summer day, sipping new wine and tasting the speciality of the location, surrounded by
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THERMAL SPRINGS Tuscany is the region that boasts the largest number of spa structures in Italy, thanks to the presence of numerous water deposits famous since antiquity for the treatment of numerous pathologies. From Florence you can easily reach numerous natural springs and although many have now become part of spa establishments, others are still free, so you can dip in their warm waters and benefit from their therapeutic properties at zero cost, or at very affordable prices. Whether you just want to relax or treat yourself to a beauty treatment, or you have some ailment to be treated, you are spoiled for choice. In the heart of Maremma, in the Province of Grosseto, is the park of the Saturnia Thermal Baths, a fully fledged resort with open-air thermal pools, hydromassage,
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vascular circuits, hotels and restaurants, one of the largest oases of relaxation in the whole of Tuscany. Or maybe you prefer a wilder, less expensive alternative? The nearby Cascate del Gorello form a waterfall that flows around an ancient mill giving rise to a series of natural pools dug into the rock. The water has a temperature of 37.5°C and thanks to the presence of thermal plankton has beneficial effects on the skin and the digestive, circulatory and motor systems. Entry to the falls is free of charge, and although they have no facilities they are open 24 hours a day, every day, even in winter. Let’s move to the province of Siena now, to immerse ourselves in the sulphur waters of the Thermal Baths of Petriolo. Already known in the Roman era, these waters gush out at a temperature of 43°C, are rich in salts and are traditionally used to cure the various pathologies of the respiratory tracts. These springs too can
Pier footpath promenade, beach and Apuane mountains in Forte dei Marmi Versilia
be enjoyed both free of charge and at the establishments with their attached hotel structures. On the outskirts of Montecatini Terme, on the other hand, is the spectacular Grotta Giusti, a thousand-year-old natural cave that winds its way amid stalactites and stalagmites to reach a stretch of crystalclear water. Its waters have a temperature of between 27°C and 34°C and mud therapy and balneotherapy are practised there in baths enriched with ozone to stimulate the metabolism of the blood vessels. THE BEACHES Your bathing costume and beach towel are probably not the first things you think of putting in your suitcase if you are about to set off for Florence, but if you visit in the summer you might feel the desire to seek a little refreshment at one of the many beaches dotted along the Tuscan coastline. Although the Medici city is deep inland,
there are in fact various beaches that can be easily reached both by car and by train. The closest, the preferred destination of chic Florentines, is Forte dei Marmi, located in north-western Tuscany, with its long wellequipped beaches, dotted with venues frequented by VIPs, fashion boutiques and exclusive nightspots. Further south, in the province of Livorno, you breathe an entirely different atmosphere. Vada is perfect for nature lovers with its free beaches; here the water is shallow and transparent and the sand pale and fine. Castiglioncello, on the other hand, is known as “the pearl of the Tyrrhenian” on account of its breathtaking landscapes, characterised by sheer cliffs, coves and pinewoods. Very easy to reach by train directly from Florence, the beach at Quercianella, again in the province of Livorno, is excellent for lovers of the Mediterranean maquis and perfect for diving and snorkelling enthusiasts.
Pedalling through Tuscany Would you like to discover the area around Florence from a different perspective, more on a human scale and in contact with nature? Then you can opt for a bicycle tour. Pedalling along the romantic olive groves, vineyards, medieval town and Medici villas, taking in the perfumes and colours of the Tuscan countryside in ways that would otherwise be impossible. After the effort of pedalling, almost all the tours envisage rest and refreshment with visits to wine cellars and the tasting of wines, olive oils and local specialities. If you are not particularly sporty but would still like to visit the outskirts of Florence from this unique perspective, then you can choose a tour by Vespa, with that irresistible vintage touch that is undoubtedly less tiring. Ask your concierge.
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Aquazzura, a hint of royalty The brand has been a cult among fashion enthusiasts worldwide since 2011, the year when it came about through the meeting between a Colombian designer and the Florentine art of shoemaking. By Elena Binda
“T
he Meghan Markle effect” has recently caused sales to boom. The nude suede pumps that the not-yet-Duchess of Sussex wore for the announcement of her engagement to Harry sold out in less than 24 hours. They were by Italian luxury brand Aquazzura and their creator, young Colombian designer Edgardo Osorio, stated in an interview that the choice had been “a complete surprise” to him, but that Meghan Markle “has been a fan of the brand from the very start”. That start dates back to 2011, when Aquazzura debuted with Osorio himself as founder and creative director: then aged just 25, the designer already had a history studded with awards and collaborations with emblematic names such as Salvatore 22 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I O C T O B E R 2018
Ferragamo, René Caovilla and Roberto Cavalli. Its headquarters in Florence, where he found “the best craftsmen in the world”, has been joined by shops in New York, Miami, Las Vegas, Dubai, Moscow, Doha, Coast Mesa in California and Milan. As for Meghan, it must be said that she is in good company, considering that other icons of style of the calibre of Julianne Moore and Jennifer Lawrence, Gwyneth Paltrow and Nicole Kidman, Rihanna and Beyoncé, Amal Clooney and Emma Watson, not to mention Olivia Palermo, Solange Knowles, Kendall Jenner and Gigi Hadid, have all been photographed wearing Aquazzura shoes. In the meantime, the phrase most often pronounced, in all languages, in Lungarno Corsini is “I’d buy them all”: the comment that
shoes by Edgardo Osorio arouse in almost all the women who pass that way. >> www.aquazzura.com Lungarno Corsini, 42 T: 055 291242
Kilian Bootie 85
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE
Guidelines CLOTHING &
The
This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. MAP LOCATIONS-Note that references in bold
at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc.) refer to the coordinates on the street map (pages 62-63). SHOPPING -Shopping hours are generally from 10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Florence) and on Monday mornings. Ask your concierge. Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.
»
TAX-FREE SHOPPING
By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund.
ACCESSORIES Angela Caputi Giuggiù The boutique offers an extraordinary selection of clothing items for every type of woman. In addition, hats, bags and other accessories from all over the world enrich these collections. Stylist and designer Angela Caputi chooses these articles personally to combine with and complete her exclusive resin jewellery with its unique, elegant design. www.angelacaputi.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Borgo SS. Apostoli, 44-46/r. T: 055 292993. Map E4
Anichini
CHILDREN A traditional tailor’s shop for children where skilled artisan hands create elegant items for newborns, children and youngsters using the best Italian fabrics. For each model it is possible
to vary the choice of fabrics, colours and details. A century-old workshop of hand-crafting culture, located in 15th-century Palazzo Ricasoli. www. anichini.net. Open Mon 3.30pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via del Parione, 59/r. T: 055 284977. Map D3
Aspesi The cult brand, created in 1969 by fashion veteran Alberto Aspesi, features quirky, tailored lines, elegant details and natural materials. His current collections are still based on the original “no frills” philosophy and will appeal to all those who like their outerwear without flashy labels. www.aspesi.com. Women. Open MonFri 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via di Porta Rossa, 85/r. T: 055 287987. Men. Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via Porta Rossa, 51/r. T: 055 287931. Map E4
UnionPay Service Hotline: 00 800 800 95516 e-mail: europe@unionpayintl.com
UnionPay is an international bankcard association based in China and serves the world’s largest cardholder base. With more than 7 billion cards issued worldwide, UnionPay has become the mayor payment method of the outbound Chinese. By March 2018, almost 600,000 merchants in Italy accept UnionPay card for payment, among which 9,000 merchants are located in Florence. This allows hundred of thousands of affluent Chinese customers to shop with their favourite cards. UnionPay also actively work with famous retail groups, such as the Rinascente department stores, The Mall, SINA hotels, Aspesi fashion boutiques, to provide special discount or services for UnionPay cardholders. DINING
Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30 € or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. SIGHTSEEING
The information provided on museums and monuments is verified as meticulously as possible. However, data such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices and the accessibility of sites are all subject to change, on a seasonal basis and also due to restoration work, museum loans or changes of management. Ask your concierge.
Valdichiana Outlet Village, the convenience of shopping Valdichiana Outlet Village, the Tuscan “Land of Fashion”, lies in one of the most beautiful, distinctive and evocative corners of Tuscany, between the provinces of Arezzo and Siena, at the intersection of important communication routes such as the A1 (Valdichiana exit) and the Siena–Perugia dual carriageway (Bettolle exit). Inside the village, which is reminiscent of a typical Tuscan town with its porticos to shelter you pleasantly from the sun and rain, you can find the most famous clothing labels from fashion and sport, in addition to footwear, accessories, jewellery, items for the home and much more besides. There are 140 stores present, with discounts of between 30% and 70% throughout the year, for a complete commercial offer with a very high quality level. For instance, it is possible to find Adidas, Asics, Baldinini, Borbonese, Brooks Brothers, Calvin Klein, K-way, Gant, Gap, Guess, Geox, Levi’s, Liu Jo Uomo, Lindt, Nike, Piquadro, Rebel Queen by Liu Jo, Replay, Samsonite, Skechers, Swatch, Timberland, Tommy Hilfiger, Villeroy&Boch, Under Armour, Us Polo e many more besides. At the Valdichiana Outlet Village it is also possible to benefit from numerous other services, such as beauty centre, children’s playground, bookshop, pharmacy and many dining options with the very best Tuscan and Italian wine and food. For all information: www.valdichianaoutlet.it
w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 23
[ FA SHION DESIGNERS]
Luxury Top Brands ALBERTA FERRETTI PHILOSOPHY— www.albertaferretti.com. Open daily 10am7pm. Via Porta Rossa, 107. T: 055 212995. Map E4
CARTIER— www.cartier.it. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via degli Strozzi, 36/r. T: 055 292347. Map E4
ASPESI—www.aspesi.com. Women. Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat 10am7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via di Porta Rossa, 85. T: 055 287987. Men Open Mon-Fri 10am2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm7pm. Via di Porta Rossa, 51/r. T: 055 287931. Map E4
CHANEL—www.chanel.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Piazza della Signoria, 10. T: 055 2989699. Map F4. Fragrance & Beauty Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via dei Calzaiuoli, 49. T: 055 298181. Map F3
BALENCIAGA—www.balenciaga.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Piazza Santa Trinita, 1/r. T: 055 287931. Map E4 BOGGI MILANO—www.boggi.com. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-1.30pm/3pm-7.30pm. Via della Vigna Nuova, 27. T: 055 219179. Map E3 BORSALINO—www.borsalino.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via Porta Rossa, 40/r. T: 055 218275. Map F4 BOTTEGA VENETA—www.bottegaveneta.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Via degli Strozzi, 6n. T: 055 284735. Map E3 BRUNELLO CUCINELLI— www.brunellocucinelli.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via dei Pecori, 16. T: 055 285832. Map F3 BULGARI—www.bulgari.com. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Via de’Tornabuoni, 56/r. T: 055 2396786. Map E4 BURBERRY—it.burberry.com. Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via de’Tornabuoni, 29/r. T: 055 293811. Map E4
CHOPARD— www.chopard.com. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7pm; Sun 11.30am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 30-32/r. T: 055 2670157. Map E4 DAMIANI— www.damiani.com. Open MonSat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 7/r. T: 055 290208. Map E3 DIOR— www.dior.com. Women. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 15/r. T: 055 2669101. Map E3
HERMÈS—www.hermes.com. Open Mon-Sat 10.15am-7pm. Piazza degli Antinori, 6/r. T: 055 2381004. Map E3
EMILIO PUCCI—www.emiliopucci.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 20-22/r. T: 055 2658082. Map E4
HOGAN—www.hogan.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 97/r. T: 055 2741013. Map E3
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA—www.zegna.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 3/r. T: 055 264254. Map E3
HUGO BOSS—www.hugoboss.com. Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Por Santa Maria, 70. T: 055 294909. Map F4
ETRO—www.etro.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Palazzo Rucellai-via della Vigna Nuova, 50/r. T: 055 2670086. Map D3
FURLA—www.furla.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30. Via de’ Calzaiuoli, 10/r (corner of piazza della Signoria). T: 055 2382883. Map F4
24 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I O C T O B E R 2018
GUCCI—www.gucci.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 73-81/r. T: 055 264011. Map E3 • Duomo. Open daily 10-19. Via Roma, 32/r. T: 055 75923803. Map F3 • Garden. Open daily 10-19.30. Piazza della Signoria, 10. T: 055 75927010. Map F4
DOLCE&GABBANA— www.dolcegabbana.it Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via degli Strozzi, 12-18/r. T: 055 281003. Map E4. Baby. Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 18/r. T: 055 2399909. Map E4
FENDI—www.fendi.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 40/r. T: 055 212305 Map E3
‘Chain Reaction’ sneakers with horse fur leopard print upper by Versace are available at LUISA VIA ROMA.
Handbag-sized SAINT LAURENT make up for retouching: from the ‘Le Cushion Encre De Peau Fusion’ foundation to the ‘Rouge Volupte Shine oil-instick’: moisture, comfort and an impeccable shine.
GIORGIO ARMANI— www.armani.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. NEW OPENING Via de’ Tornabuoni, 83/r. T: 055 219041. Map E3
LORO PIANA—www.loropiana.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 34-36/r. T: 055 2398688. Map E4 LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30; Sun 11am-7.30pm. Piazza degli Strozzi, 10/r. T: 055 266981. Map E3 MAX MARA—it.maxmara.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 66-68-70/r. T: 055 214133. Map E3 • Open Mon-Sat 10am7.30; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Pecori, 23/r. T: 055 287761. Map F3 MICHAEL KORS—www.michaelkors.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30; Sun 10.30am7.30pm. Piazza della Repubblica, 43. T: 055 290284. Map F3
MISSONI—www.missoni.it. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via Porta Rossa, 77-79/r. T: 055 215774. Map F4
Elegant and timeless, this cashmere and silk scarf with toneon-tone jacquard fabric is characterised by an arabesque motif personally designed by STEFANO RICCI.
MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30; Sun 10am-7pm. Via Roma, 8/r. T: 055 2608931. Map F3 MONCLER—www.moncler.com. Open MonSat 10am-7; Sun 11am-7pm. Via degli Strozzi, 3/r. T: 055 2657583. Map E3 MONTBLANC—www.montblanc.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 63/r. T: 055 292050. Map E3 PRADA—www. prada.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via Roma, 27/r. T: 055 287066. • Open daily 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 53-67/r. T: 055 267471 Map E3 SAINT LAURENT—www.ysl.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 43-45. T: 055 9040100. Map E3 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— www.ferragamo.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 4-14/r. T: 055 292123. Map E4 STEFANO RICCI—www. stefanoricci.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Palazzo Tornabuoni - Via dei Pescioni, 1. T: 055 210856. Map F3 SWAROVSKI—www.swarovski.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 10am-7.30pm. Via dei Calzaiuoli, 43/r. T: 055 216227. Map F3 TOD’S—www.tods.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am7.30pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 60/r. T: 055 219423. Map E3 VALENTINO—www.valentino.com. Women. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 23/r. T: 055 293142. Map E4
Sizing Women,s clothes IT EUR US UK 36 32 1 4 38 34 2 6 40 36 4 8 42 38 6 10 44 40 8 12 46 42 10 14 48 44 12 16 Women,s shoes IT EUR US UK 36 36 6 3 37 37 6.5 4 38 38 7.5 5 39 39 8.5 6 40 40 9 7 41 41 9.5 8 Men,s clothes IT EUR US UK 50 46 36 36 52 48 38 38 54 50 40 40 56 52 42 42 58 54 44 44 60 56 46 46 Men,s shoes IT EUR US UK 40 40 7.5 6 41 41 8 7 42 42 8.5 8 43 43 9 9 44 44 10.5 10 45 45 11.5 11 46 46 12 12
Pastel shades and oversize volumes are among the dominant motifs for the VALENTINO autumn/winter 2018-2019 collection presented on the catwalks of Paris, a hymn to romanticism and femininity. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 25
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Renowned for its tasteful, plus-size apparel for fashionable women, Marina Rinaldi offers PIAZZA Giardino Della Gherardesca SAN MARCO a wide range of collections, featuring both contemporary and classic lines that are Chiesa updated on a seasonal basis. La SS. These Annunziata include di Firenze dresses, jackets, coats, bags and accessories PIAZZA dell’Accademia for Galleria a total look that exudes class and elegance. VI DELLA VI A Museo Archeologico SANTISSIMA A G it.marinarinaldi.com. IU ANNUNZIA Open Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; D E G
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MULTIBRAND STORE Founded in the early 1930s by Luisa Jaquin, today Luisa Via Roma is a landmark for lovers of fashion and V luxury the world over. A global powerhouse IA G of e-commerce with 5 million visitors aU Smonth, TA V its Florence store also offers aV I digitalized O M O A Giardino D E E N displaying N Palazzo Pandolfini purchasing experience: instead Vof A EZ IA the garments, they have been replaced with VI Chiesa di A interactive P I Don’t miss the elegant S. Giovanniinstallations. ER dei Cavalieri AN terrace designed by Patricia Urquiola. Open TO Giardino N IO di San Clemente Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun M 11am-7.30pm. IC H EL www.luisaviaroma.com. Via Roma, 19-21/r. T: 055 I 9064116. Map F3 Giardino
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C AnD I AItalian prêt-à-porter brand dedicated to B. V. C curvyC Ewomen, for over 30 years Elena Mirò TO PIAZZA ADUA has been synonymous with perfect-fit clothing items that enhance every woman’s look with San Jacopo di Ripoli a contemporary, refined and ever new style. esa di Riposo americana FromCasa dresses to outerwear, from trousers to della Beata James Elisabetta Vendramini V IA accessories, to beachwear, the brand expresses Stazione Ferroviaria D
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The world of Brunello Cucinelli can be summed up as a compendium of art, traditions and Italian Fortezza da Basso craftsmanship. The brand, which came about in VI VI GI A A G. DO Umbria forty years ago from an idea by founder G Giovanni Raspini LF Nostra Signora U I del Sacro Cuore Brunello Cucinelli, represents excellence in the In Zthe beating heart of the fashion district, ZI RO production of high-quality cashmere knitwear IP P O S Tthe boutique of the Tuscan jewellery brand V. VIA C. F IL LE BA RI and today boasts top-level production with RT V IA DO based in Valdichiana (between Siena, Arezzo OL PIAZZALE LF OM VI I M BAMBINE E BAMBINI EI total look men’s and women’s collections. TodayA D E and Florence) is a genuine PIAZZA concept store that LL DI BESLAN INDIPENDENZA A it is seen as a model enterprise all over the FO boasts a personalized layout design where RT EZ ZA world for its support for the dignity of work and a 15th-century tapestry stands out. Fine craftsmanship, defining itself as “a humanistic LI V jewellery - with a unique personality, often L IA E S Giardino X S company”. www.brunellocucinelli.com. Open X animal-themed, sometimes oversized di Valfonda V or limited RO II I A daily 10am-7pm. Via dei Pecori, 16/r. T: 055 VI LL P handedition - silverware, objects for the home, A R IL G VI U E 285832. Map F3 E A crafted white bronze creations, always having L
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SHOPPING Sun 10.30am-8.30pm c/o Rinascente-Piazza della Repubblica. T: 055 219113.
Société Anonyme An independent shop of North-European conception inspired by the underground atmospheres of the hot-lazy neighbourhoods of London, Berlin and New York (the name is a homage to Marcel Duchamp and Peggy Guggenheim, who founded an avant-garde art gallery in New York called Société Anonyme in the 1920s). Located in the literary artistic district of Sant’Ambrogio, it offers labels of international renown and niche brands, as well as its own men’s and women’s collection that is only sold in-store and online. www.societeanonyme. it. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via G.B. Niccolini, 3/f corner of via della Mattonaia, 24/a/b/c/d. (Sant’Ambrogio District).T: 055 3860084. Map L3
Stefano Ricci Tailoring and Italian tradition “Made in Florence”, with the purest male elegance as the watchword. These, in short, are the values of the company founded in 1972 by Stefano Ricci and his wife Claudia, which, now in its second generation, has become a successful international group. From clothing (jackets, suits and high-fashion sports items, but also shirts and ties) to jewellery, from leatherwear to perfumes and the SR Home and SR Junior collections, Stefano Ricci represents Italian excellence all over the world, making production entirely handmade by qualified Italian craftsmen its strong point. Faithful to the values of the manufacturing tradition and the roots of the territory, in 2010 the firm acquired the Antico Setificio Fiorentino, a historic silk factory in the San Frediano district that has produced precious fabrics since 1786 and today still uses the original ancient hand looms. www.stefanoricci.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Palazzo Tornabuoni-Via dei Pescioni, 1. T: 055 210856. Map E3
DEPARTMENT STORES Rinascente In the heart of the city, Rinascente is the ideal place to discover the best of fashion, accessories, beauty, home and design items. For women, proposals of the best Italian and international brands range from the classic to the contemporary and for men from formal to smart casual. Rinascente is a point of reference
for luxury shopping and for new brands, exclusive products and the unveiling of innovations. www.rinascente.it. Open Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; Sun 10.30am-8.30pm. Piazza della Repubblica. T: 055 219113. Map F3
FINE ART Abacus
BINDERY A workshop producing precious bindings. The raw materials, such as “Acid Free” paper, 100% cotton or leather with vegetable tanning or hand-dyed using ancient methods and natural waxes, are all selected with care. All the phases are supervised in the workshop: from the folding of the sheets by hand to the delicate phase of hand stitching, to the application of the cover using various styles. www.abacusfirenze. com. Open Mon 2.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am-7.30pm. Via dei Macci, 50 (Santa Croce district). T: 345 3280318. Map L4
Antico Setificio Fiorentino The Antico Setificio Fiorentino is the heir to a great tradition of Renaissance textile art and history, thanks also to its famous warping machine based on a design by Leonardo da Vinci. Since 1786 the workshop has been producing some of the most sumptuous silk brocades, damask, taffeta, and lampas in the world, 100% made in Italy. www. anticosetificiofiorentino.com. Open MonFri 10am-6pm (by appointment only). Via L. Bartolini, 4. T: 055 213861. Map B3
Galleria Romanelli The Galleria Romanelli has been handing down precious sculpture artwork for six generations in one of the most picturesque neighbourhoods of Florence, Borgo San Frediano. An artistic workshop, a meeting place for buyers and artists, where sculptors and their students carry out their work daily surrounded by the ancient tools of the trade. Work is done by commission on original sculptures, chalk replicas, bronze and Carrara marble and restorations. www.raffaelloromanelli. com. Open Mon-Fri 10am-1pm/2pm-6pm. Borgo San Frediano, 70. T: 055 2396047. Map C4
Leone Cei & Sons Since 1902, an exceptional firm specializing in dressing tables, appliqués, consuls, chairs and armchairs faithfully reproduced from antique models from a rare and abundant archive. The production, entirely made in Florence, is
destined for private homes, hotels and private clubs all over the world. The carving, gilding, burnishing and lacquering work is performed rigorously by hand following traditional procedures and using natural products and pigmentations. A huge department is dedicated to fabrics for furnishings, with a collection of fabrics still produced on ancient looms or limited editions, or produced on request and based on customers’ designs. Qualified consultancy service provided on antiques and on the reproduction of period items. www. leonecei.com. Headquarters & Showroom: Via dei Federighi, 15. T: 055 2381870. Map D3 • Antiques: Via dei Fossi, 47/r. T: 055 2396039. Map D3
Papiro (Il) Established in 1976 in Florence, Il Papiro produces objects drawing their inspiration from the Florentine tradition of marbled paper (diaries, address books, photo albums, articles for the desk) in addition to a line of classic leather accessories. www.ilpapirofirenze.eu. Open MonSat 10am-1pm/2pm-7pm; Sun 10am-6pm. Via C. Cavour, 49/r. T: 055 6499151. Map G1
Pitti Mosaici Since the early 1980s this studio right opposite Palazzo Pitti keeps alive the ancient Florentine tradition of marquetry with marble, hard and semi-precious stones. Unique hand-made items to provide coverings for walls, framed items and furnishings recalling the atmospheres and style of the Renaissance. Today the art studio creates entire made-to-measure residential projects all over the world. www.pittimosaici.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-8pm. Piazza de’ Pitti, 23/24. T: 055 282127. Map E6
Richard Ginori 1735 Tradition and excellence in the high-quality artistic manufacture of porcelain. The Richard Ginori “artistic factory”, of 18th-century origin, still produces accessories for the table and living room and works of art in its Doccia Factory (20 km from Florence) using ancient working techniques. Italian style and international trends. www. richardginori1735.com. Open Mon-Wed 10am-7pm; Thurs-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 12 noon-6.30pm. Via ei Rondinelli, 17/r. T: 055 210041. Map E2
Torchio (Il) Inspired by the ancient Florentine hand crafting tradition, Il Torchio creates bookbinding
VALLI TESSUTI ALTA MODA The expert staff of Valli Tessuti Alta Moda will assist you in the search for the perfect fabric to make elegant outfits, prêt-à-porter or formal wear. Valli stocks a wide assortment of exquisite fabrics for men (including pinstripes and prince of Wales check by Ermenegildo Zegna and Loro Piana) and women (Valentino and Ungaro), as well as bolts of cloth to make coats and outerwear, shirts, accessories and bridal gowns. The shop works in association with top quality tailors, who are available to create haute couture garments to meet even tight deadlines. vallitessuti.com Via della Vigna Nuova, 81/r. T: 055 282485. Map D3
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SHOPPING drawing inspiration from nature and the floral world. www.annamariacammilli.com. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 11am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via Vacchereccia, 12/r. T: 055 2608617. Map F4
Aprosio Aprosio came about as a workshop in 1993 and creates jewellery accessories and products for decorating interiors, with glass beads from Murano and Bohemia crystal glass. www.aprosio. it. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7pm. Via del Moro 7577/r, 12/r. T: 055 210127. Map E2
Cassetti 1926 In the spectacular context of Ponte Vecchio, the Cassetti multibrand boutique is known for both fine watchmaking and haute joaillerie, and has a studio that develops innovative projects with its own artisan collection. www.cassetti.it. Open daily 10am-7pm. Ponte Vecchio, 54/r. T: 055 287361. Map F5
This Hobo red coloured landscape women’s bag by IL BISONTE is made of cowhide leather, with unique characteristics of softness and durability.
products with refined materials such as Florentine leather, hand-marbled paper and coloured cloths, also devising new artisan articles with contemporary materials and techniques. www.legatoriailtorchio.com.Open Mon-Fri 10am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm; Sat 10am-1pm. Via de’ Bardi, 17. T: 055 2342862. Map G6
JEWELLERY & WATCHES Alessandro Dari
UNIQUE Housed in the 15th-century Palazzo Nasi-Quaratesi, the “Museum Shop” of master goldsmith Alessandro Dari has an area used to exhibit his precious works and another used as an artistic workshop where jewellery and decorative objects are developed, including one-off items and themed collections. Some of his works are displayed at the nearby Treasury of the Grand Dukes in Palazzo Pitti. www.alessandrodari.com. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 11am7.30pm. Via San Niccolò, 115/r. T: 055 244747. Map G6
Angela Caputi Giuggiù
COSTUME JEWELLERY The brand is renowned throughout the world. Sophisticated, original creations made from unusual materials such as plastic and resin, combined to create unique objects both in terms of colour and shape. Her creations have been used as accessories by famous television and film producers. The accessory as a focal point, capable of creating a look or dressing up any type of garment. A magical blend of contemporary and classical taste. www.angelacaputi.com. Shop and workshop: Open Tues-Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm7.30pm. Via S. Spirito, 58/r. T: 055 212972. Map D4 • Boutique: Open Mon-Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm7.30pm. Borgo SS. Apostoli, 44-46/r. T: 055 292993. Map F4
Annamaria Cammilli A Florentine brand of reference in design jewellery, it has been present with its creations in shop windows and display cases all over the world for over 30 years and is synonymous with a unique, unmistakable Italian style. Attention to detail for rings, necklaces, bracelets and brooches, often 28 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I O C T O B E R 2018
Damiani Master craftsmen since 1924, Damiani has a long goldsmithing tradition which it has always interpreted with innovative spirit. Line purity, a refined, elegant classic as well as contemporary spirit, are the distinctive values of Damiani jewellery. Their collections are realized by master goldsmiths in full accordance with the best Italian tradition and admired throughout the world. www. damiani.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 7/r. T: 055 290208. Map E4
Dodo The gold Dodo jewellery line, created in 1995 by Pomellato, is by now a classic either for gift or collection purposes. It sells an array of animal charm pieces, each of which has a particular meaning. www.dodo.it. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11.30am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 39-41/r. T: 055 2741573. Map E4
Fani Gioielli Starting out as a family-run shop over 50 years ago, Fani Gioielli is now an established fine jewellery and luxury watchmaking firm, with two points of sale, in Florence and Siena. An extensive range of prestigious jewellery brands, including Pomellato, Dodo and Vhernier; it is also an official Rolex and Tudor retailer. www.fanishops.it. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm7pm. Via de’Tornabuoni, 72/r. T: 055 212075. Map E3
Massai Orafi Founded in 1950 by Florentine master goldsmith Franco Massai, it boasts over 60 years in the field of Florentine fine goldsmithery. With the techniques of the past it produces unique, rigorously hand-made pieces and is a point of reference for Florentines and others besides. EDITOR’S TIP A visit to the workshop is a unique experience: on the top floor of a 16th-century tower house, for over 200 years master goldsmiths have practised the ancient fretworking, carving and engraving traditions typical of the Florentine goldsmithery art. www.massaiorafi.it. Open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm/3pm7.30pm. Via delle Terme, 13. T: 055 294800. Map F4
Officine Panerai Situated in the centre of Florence, birthplace of the fine watchmaking trade, this historic boutique boasts a unique design and a strong identity that
Spanish designer Patricia Urquiola has enhanced by working with the idea of the “art workshop”. A space on the first floor is devoted to special sales and another is reserved for periodic exhibitions of watches from the historical Museum; on the ground floor, a watchmaker is at customers’ disposal to carry out repairs and share his passion with Panerai enthusiasts. www.panerai.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Piazza San Giovanni, 14/r. T: 055 9040013. Map F2
Rolex Boutique-Cassetti 1926 In the unique and exclusive setting that is Ponte Vecchio, the Rolex boutique has three storeys: the ground floor is dedicated to sales, with three display tables; the first floor has two rooms for reserved sales; the second floor has a fully equipped customer care centre, where qualified Rolex technicians are available to look after the precious timepieces. www.cassetti.it. Open daily 10am-7pm. Ponte Vecchio, 29/r. T: 055 2741044. Map F5
Tiffany & Co. Located in the luxury shopping street par excellence, the Tiffany & Co. boutique is housed in one of the most beautiful Palazzi in the city. There is plenty of space inside for gold and silver fashion collections, such as ’Tiffany City HardWear’ and ’Tiffany T’, jewels with purest diamonds, the iconic engagement rings, design creations by Elsa Peretti and Paloma Picasso and rigorously Swiss-made men’s and women’s watches. www.tiffany.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni 37/r. T: 055 215506. Map C4
Ugo Poggi It came about in Florence in the early 20th century as a producer of silverware, porcelain, glassware and furnishings. After a century, now in its third generation, today the brand proposes a sophisticated production of luxury Florentine hand-crafted items for the home: from precious crystal chandeliers to bone china crockery, to a precious selection of antique silverware. No longer just internally produced furnishing accessories, but also historic Italian and top quality international brands. www. ugopoggifirenze.com. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sun 10am-7pm. Via degli Strozzi, 26/r. T: 055 216741. Map E3
Vacheron Constantin Boutique In the unique and exclusive setting that is Ponte Vecchio, this boutique is the oldest fine watchmaking design house in the world, founded in 1755 in Geneva. The façade of the boutique is also known for the tabernacle with a painting of the Madonna with Child and Saint John that marked the presence of an ancient oratory of the Holy Sepulchre, which came under the control of the Knights of Malta in the early 14th century. www.cassetti.it. Open daily 10am-7pm. Ponte Vecchio, 52/r. T: 055 2396028. Map F5
LEATHER Cuoieria Fiorentina From the famous ancient hand-crafting tradition of the Florentine “pellai” [leather craftsmen], typical of this area of Tuscany, here unique, inimitable products are created with extreme care and top-quality natural materials. A vast range of leather handbags, travel bags and accessories (belts, wallets, briefcases…), for him and for her,
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In the heart of Florence, just a few steps away from the historic treasures of the city, you will find Rinascente: the ideal place to find the best in fashion, accessories, beauty, home and design. Shoppers will find items of the best Italian and international brands. A large area is devoted to women’s fashion which includes a vast and prestigious range in both classic fashions as well as the latest trends. Special attention is also given to men’s wear where shoppers can choose from formal attire to smart casual wear. The constant arrival of new brands, unique commodities and the latest products exclusive to Rinascente makes the store the focal point for your high-end shopping in the city.
SERVICES FOR A MORE PLEASANT SHOPPING
>> www.rinascente.it Open Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; Sun 10.30am-8.30pm. Piazza della Repubblica. T: 055 219113.
► All credit cards are accepted
► Customers’ Service Desk - Tax Free Service ► Currency Conversion Service by Global Blue Currency Choice ► Beauty consultant Service available by appointment ► Shopping assistant on request ► Dedicated international deliveries ► Free delivery inside the city for purchases of over 500 euros ► Free repairs on any item needing tailoring, except for products on sale
On Demand Service T: +39 3440081600 ondemand@rinascente.it w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 29
UNIQUE IN FLORENCE OTTICA MANTOVANI LEONE CEI & SONS Since 1902, an exceptional firm specializing in dressing tables, appliqués, consuls, chairs and armchairs faithfully reproduced from antique models from a rare and abundant archive. The production, entirely made in Florence, is destined for private homes, hotels and private clubs all over the world. Qualified consultancy service provided on antiques and on the reproduction of period items. www.leonecei.com Via dei Fossi, 47/r. T: 055 2396039.
GALLERIA ROMANELLI The Galleria Romanelli has been handing down precious sculpture artwork for six generations in Borgo San Frediano. An artistic workshop, a meeting place for buyers and artists, where sculptors and their students carry out their work daily surrounded by the ancient tools of the trade. Work is done by commission on original sculptures, chalk replicas, bronze and Carrara marble and restorations. www.raffaelloromanelli.com Borgo San Frediano, 70. T: 055 2396047.
LA MÉNAGÈRE A delightful concept store that includes a shop with design objects for the home, a florist’s, in addition to a restaurant and a bistro. Located right in the city centre, in the space that was once occupied by the first Florentine household item shop, which opened in 1896, it combines industrial and recycled materials and design objects for a contemporary result with a romantic touch. www.lamenagere.it Via de’ Ginori, 8/r. T: 055 0750600.
IL TORCHIO Inspired by the ancient Florentine hand crafting tradition, Il Torchio creates bookbinding products with refined materials such as Florentine leather, hand-marbled paper and coloured cloths, also devising new artisan articles with contemporary materials and techniques.
www.legatoriailtorchio.it Via de’ Bardi, 17. T: 055 2342862.
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SHOPPING offering excellent value for money. Another strong point is the personalization of the products, organised to satisfy the tastes and requirements of customers, who can count Michelle Obama among their number. www.cuoieriafiorentina.it. Open Mon-Sat 9am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via de’ Nicola, 11. T: 055 6505091. Off Map
Gianni Chiarini Established in the 1990s, this brand is the expression of ancient artisan wisdom in the creation of contemporary bags and accessories, with an idea of pure design. A fresh, modern and cosmopolitan brand, but at the same time sophisticated, which has its roots in the heart of Florentine beauty. giannichiarini.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Via della Vigna Nuova, 52/r. T: 055 2654306. Map D3
Il Bisonte Florentine leather goods brand Il Bisonte came about in 1970 thanks to Wanny Di Filippo’s passion for leather objects. Housed in the boutique in Palazzo Corsini on the Lungarno are its beautifully hand-crafted bags, travel bags, briefcases, wallets, diaries, belts and other accessories epitomising the best of Tuscan workmanship. The brand’s key focus is on materials, including its iconic cowhide: a natural, highly sought-after vegetable tanned leather which has the advantage of improving with age. www.ilbisonte.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm: Sun 11.30am-6.30pm. Via del Parione, 31-33/r. T: 055 215722. Map E4
PASSION SHOPPING AquaFlor A perfume shop with the charm of past times, dedicated to the hand-crafted manufacture of perfumes made using natural and rare raw materials, personalisable through the choice of
fragrances. A studio run impeccably by maître parfumier Sileno Cheloni. www.aquaflor.it. www.aquaflorfirenze.com Open daily 10am1pm/2pm-7pm. Borgo Santa Croce, 6. T: 055 2343471. Map H5
Dr. Vranjes Home fragrances and elegant furnishing accessories made by hand in Florence for more than 30 years. Florence is home to the laboratories and the headquarters of the Florentine home fragrance company founded and managed by the “nose”, the perfumer, namely chemist and cosmetologist Dr. Paolo Vranjes and his wife Anna Maria. In addition to the traditional production of ambient diffusers and “lamparfum” items, the brand has diversified its production with linen, cosmetics, perfumes and gift boxes, also giving a strong Florentine identity to the packaging, inspired by Brunelleschi’s Dome. drvranjes. it. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am2pm/3pm-7pm. Via San Gallo, 63/r. T: 055 494537 Off Map • Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. Via della Spada, 9/r. T: 055 288796. Map E3• Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 10am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Sat 10am-7.30pm. Borgo La Croce, 44/r. T: 055 241748. Map l3
La Ménagère
CONCEPT STORE A delightful concept store of around 1500 square metres that includes a shop with design objects for the home, a florist, in addition to a restaurant and a bistro. Located right in the city centre, in the space that was once occupied by the first Florentine household item shop, it combines industrial and recycled materials and design objects for a contemporary result with a romantic touch. www.lamenagere. it. Open daily 7am-2am. Via de’ Ginori 8/r. T: 055 0750600. Map F1
ASPESI See page 23.
Madova Gloves Since 1919 for four generations Madova has produced leather gloves lined with cashmere, rabbit fur, silk or lambswool. Located between Ponte Vecchio and Palazzo Pitti, is the only Florentine shop that produces its excellent quality gloves in-house, with a vast assortment of models and colours. Deliveries worldwide. www.madova. com. Open Mon-Fri 10.30am-7pm; Sat 9.30am7pm. Via de’ Guicciardini, 1/r. T: 055 2396526. Map F5
Marioluca Giusti A Florentine Maison producing practical, elegant design objects for the table and more besides, in a style between fusion and pop. Its synthetic crystal glass and melamine collections are enhanced every year with new models with colour shades ranging from white to black to transparent, to brighter colours such as fluo. Its products are particularly appreciated by important international personalities such as the Princes of Monaco, King Mohammed VI of Morocco, Steven Spielberg, Valentino and the Missoni family. Its boutiques are characterized by total white walls with niches where the accessories are exhibited, as in a museum. It has several sites in Florence: Por Santa Maria, 16/r (open daily 11am-7pm); Via della Spada, 16-20 (Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm/2pm7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm). Flagship Store: Via della Vigna Nuova 88/r. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. T: 055 2399527. Map D3
Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella
OFFICINA PROFUMO FARMACEUTICA DI SANTA MARIA NOVELLA The Grand Sales Room, which you come to immediately after the entrance, was originally one of the chapels of the ancient Dominican convent, then became a storeroom in the 18th century and finally a hall to welcome the customers of the pharmacy and apothecary. www.smnovella.com
UNIQUE The oldest historical pharmacy in Europe (established in 1221), the Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica is housed in a part of the Dominican convent complex of Santa Maria Novella and has been open to the public for over four centuries (since 1612). Its products (perfumes, beauty products, medicinal herbs, herbal teas, sweets and chocolates) are sold all over the world in 75 single brand stores and represent a production par excellence on account of their quality raw materials and centuries-old handicraft techniques, with the aid of modern technologies. The frescoed monumental environments - Sales Room, Green Room, Ancient Apothecary and Sacristy - have w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 31
SHOPPING
Tax Free Refund Guide 1. VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a value added tax on goods and services, and is part of the European Union’s value added tax system. 2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a VAT refund. This refund does not cover the services supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies. 3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: • you are a non-EU resident; • the goods purchased are intended for personal or family use only and are carried in your luggage; • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds 154,94 Euro (VAT included); • the purchase is certified by an invoice. This invoice should include a description of the goods purchased, your personal information as well as the details of your passport or any other equivalent document; • the goods leave EU territory by the end of the third month after the month that you bought them; • several specific customs formalities are complied with; • the invoice is returned to the Italian retailer within four months after the purchase was made. 4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must be shown at the customs exit point when leaving EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items into your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs BEFORE checking in). 5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return the original invoice, regularly endorsed by the customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice must be returned within four months from the date when the document was issued. 6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian retailer (however, make sure that the shop you’ve chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax Free” sign in its window). 7. Several Tax-Free companies are able to offer immediate VAT cash refunds when the goods leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating the passenger from having to return the invoice to the retailer). However, this procedure only applies at major international airports or main border crossings. Most major department stores have Tax Free Refund offices. 8. The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply the payment of a small administrative sum which is directly deducted from the amount of VAT refunded to the traveller. 9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund within a reasonable period of time, he or she should re-contact the Italian retailer or one of the aforementioned companies. 10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded directly by customs offices. Source: www.agenziadoganemonopoli.gov.it/ portale/ee/citizen/vta-refund
34 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I O C T O B E R 2018
RICHARD GINORI
DR. VRANJES
See page 27.
See page 31.
been returned to their former splendour thanks to restoration work. www.smnovella.com. Open daily 9am-8pm. Via della Scala, 16. T: 055 216276. Map D2
aquazzura.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. Palazzo Corsini-Lungarno Corsini, 42. T: 055 291242. Map D4
The Merchant of Venice
Situated in Florence’s main street for shopping, inside the medieval Palazzo Spini Feroni (the company’s historic workshop since 1938 and the site of the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum), the Ferragamo boutique hosts all its fashion men’s, women’s, accessories and perfume collections. The brand represents Italian quality, contemporary elegance, innovation and tradition. The boutique occupies the entire ground floor of the building, inside large spaces decorated with 18th-century frescoes. The wing of the store that faces onto Piazza Santa Trinita hosts the “Ferragamo’s Creations” corner with the exclusive footwear line that revisits some of the brand’s iconic models. www.ferragamo.com. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Palazzo Spini FeroniVia de’ Tornabuoni, 4/r. T: 055 292123. Map E4
NEW The new boutique is structured into a vast range of Eaux de Parfum and Eaux de Toilette, completed by products for personal care, for the environment and accessories. The essences are contained in packaging with designs inspired by the glassmaking tradition of Murano. Furthermore, the single-brand store provides a personalized layering service. www. themerchantofvenice.com. Open Mon-Thurs 10.30am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7.30pm; Wed-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Via degli Strozzi, 28/r. T: 055 216559. Map E3
Valli Tessuti Alta Moda A reference point in Florence that offers its clientele the best made in Italy fabrics inspired by the most beautiful haute couture collections. The store carries a vast assortment of precious, sought-after cuts to make elegant dresses, prêtà-porter and ceremonial attire both for men and women, but also coats, shirts and bridal gowns. vallitessuti.com. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. Via d
Wolford
LINGERIE A high-end Austrian hosiery, lingerie and beachwear brand. In its extensive readyto-wear and lingerie range, from modern styles to classic cuts made from the finest materials, there is no shortage of dresses, shirts, trousers, skirts, sweaters and costumes. www.wolfordshop. it. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10.30am1.30pm/2.30pm-7.30pm. Via dei Calzaiuoli, 64/r. T: 055 219169. Map F4
SHOES Aquazzura Created in Florence in 2011 and inspired by the luxury hand-crafting tradition, the brand combines a typically European refined aesthetic sensibility with modern Latin American elegance. Aquazzura shoes have been worn by trendsetters, Hollywood stars, European royalty and fashion insiders around the globe. www.
Salvatore Ferragamo
SHOPPING CENTER I Gigli 20 kilometres from Florence, the I Gigli shopping centre stretches over a surface area of 72,000 sq.m. with 134 shops by important Italian and international brands, including some exclusive to Tuscany such as Apple Store, 18 restaurants and bars, a 16-screen Multiplex Cinema, events, entertainment and services for adults and kids. igigli.it. Open Mon-Sat 9am-10pm; Sun 9am-9pm. Via San Quirico 165, Campi Bisenzio (Florence). T: 055 8969250. Off Map
STATIONERY Pineider Artisan savoir faire since 1774 in the universe of paper, writing and leather goods. Tradition and design are the distinctive features of this brand, which is unique worldwide: from the printing of precious and embossed paper to articles made of fine leather, to elegant writing instruments. www.pineider.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Piazza de’ Rucellai, 4-7/r. T: 055 284656. Map E3
ADV VALDICHIANA
[ D A I LY T O U R S ]
Fashion outlets LUGANO MENDRISIO
Not far from Florence, in Tuscany but also in nearby EmiliaRomagna, don’t miss a trip to these shopping destinations offering discounts year-round.
BERGAMO BRESCIA
NOVARA
TRIESTE
MILANO
ALESSANDRIA TORINO
PIACENZA? Fidenza Village GENOVA
MAR LIGURE VENTIMIGLIA
FORTE DEI MARMI
FERRARA
MAR
BOLOGNA ?
LUCCA
PISA
Castel Guelfo ADRIATICO The Style Outlets
Barberino RIMINI ? Designer Outlet THE APPENNINI MOUNTAIN RIDGE
FIRENZE SAN GIMIGNANO ? The Mall Firenze
LIVORNO
SIENA
Valdichiana
? Outlet Village
ANCONA
PERUGIA
BARBERINO DESIGNER OUTLET McArthurGlen Barberino is conveniently located adjacent to the A1 motorway, for easy access from Florence (just 30 minutes from the city centre). McArthurGlen also boasts “Serravalle” near Milan (the largest Designer Outlet in Europe), “Castel Romano” near Rome, “La Reggia” near Naples and “Noventa di Piave” close to Venice. Open daily 10am-8pm. • WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the direction of Bologna and exit at Barberino. Daily shuttle bus service from Florence Santa Maria Novella train station (4 times a day). Meeting point: City Sightseeing Firenze Line A Stop No.1, Florence SMN Train Station, left-luggage office side. • WHAT: the perfect location to find your favourite designer brands at up to 70% off, all year round. With more than 120 boutiques, cafés and restaurants, children’s play area and free parking, surrounded by wonderful Tuscany countryside and architecture, Barberino Designer Outlet offers something for everyone. McArthurGlen.it/Barberino CASTEL GUELFO THE STYLE OUTLETS The point where quality, style and convenience meet: men’s, women’s and children’s clothes, sportswear, accessories and cosmetics with discounts of between 30% and 70% all year round. Castel Guelfo The Style Outlets is located in the Emilia-Romagna region, 1.5 hours from Florence. Open Mon-Fri 10am-8pm; Sat and Sun 10am-8.30pm. • WHERE: take the A1 Bologna-Ancona and exit at Castel San Pietro Terme. A free shuttle service is available daily from Castel San Pietro Terme railway station. 36 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I O C T O B E R 2018
• WHAT: 110 boutiques by prestigious brands – THE MALL FIRENZE such as Baldinini, K-way, Flavio Castellani, Guess, The luxury outlet centre The Mall Firenze is a Pepe Jeans, Timberland, Trussardi and Vans – of gallery of the world’s most exclusive designers clothing and accessories for the whole family, at truly advantageous prices, offeringPESCARA customers CORSICA sportswear, items for the home and beauty a unique shopping experience. It is set in the products, with discounts of up to 70% on the heart of the Tuscan countryside, just 30 minutes retail price. from Florence. Open daily 10am-7pm (in June, ROMA • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: to make the day of July, August 10am-8pm). shopping even more enjoyable, the centre also • WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the TIRRENO hosts art exhibitions, lots of eventsMAR and initiatives direction of Rome. Leave the motorway at the designed to involve the whole family. “Incisa-Reggello” exit and proceed on the right www.thestyleoutlets.it towards Pontassieve, as far as Leccio. Direct bus NAPOLI service from central Florence (Busitalia/Sita bus FIDENZA VILLAGE station-Via S. Caterina da Siena, near the central This is one of the 11 Villages in Europe and China railway station, €7). Exclusive door-to-door by Value Retail and one of The Bicester Village minivan service from centrally located hotels in Shopping Collection® Villages: a place where Florence (€35 round trip). Ask your concierge. SARDEGNA hospitality makes the shopping experience • WHAT: over 40 luxury stores (fashion, fragrance memorable. The Village is located in the Emiliaand footwear) featuring your favourite brands Romagna region, 2 hours from Florence. Open with discounts of up to 70% year-round: Gucci, daily 10am-8pm. Fendi, Salvatore Ferragamo, Dolce&Gabbana, • WHERE: halfway between Bologna and Milan, Jimmy Choo, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta and near Parma. Take the A1-E35 motorway and exit Chloé (June 2018 Opening). at Fidenza/Salsomaggiore Terme. • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: the Gucci Caffè • WHAT: an exclusive shopping experience with Restaurant, on the top floor of the Gucci store, unique hospitality at the core of the services and is the perfect spot for a lunch break or just to with over 130 boutiques of the world’s leading savour a moment of relaxation after a day’s fashion and lifestyle brands at reduced prices (up shopping. www.themall.it to 70% off ), including Versace, Armani, Missoni, Calvin Klein, Diesel, Paul Smith and Michael Kors. VALDICHIANA OUTLET VILLAGE • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: the Village pays An authentic “Shopping Village” in the province homage to the region’s rich cultural and of Arezzo (1 hour from Florence), offering a gastronomic heritage. After your day of pleasant, relaxing atmosphere and a unique shopping, visit one of its restaurants to indulge shopping experience characterised by quality in delicious homemade pasta with fresh and convenience. It has several facilities and Parmesan cheese from nearby Parma. services, such as a beauty centre, a playground, www.fidenzavillage.com the library and several food courts where the
best local food and wines are on offer. Open daily 10am-8pm. • WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the direction of Rome and exit at Valdichiana Bettolle. • WHAT: 140 designer and brand shops characterized by quality and convenience offering 30% to 70% discounts all year round and further discounts during sale periods: Adidas, Baldinini, Brooks Brothers, Calvin Klein, Diadora, Geox, Guess, Levi’s, Massimo Rebecchi, Samsonite, Tommy Hilfiger Under Armour and many others. • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: ample choice of the restaurants and refreshments, a modern playground, the possibility of recharging your electric car, free wi-fi, mobile phone recharge and, in the event of rain, the possibility of walking in the dry beneath the porticoes. www.valdichianaoutlet.it
Valdichiana Outlet Village
Castel Guelfo The Style Outlets
The Mall Firenze
Fidenza Village
Barberino Designer Outlet w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 37
FOOD&WINE
Genuine food for all tastes The Central Market, a genuine institution for lovers of good food, is frequented by tourists but also by Florentines, who appreciate the quality and variety of what is on offer there. By Chiara Zaccarelli
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here is it possible to taste Sicilian specialities, vegan dishes, Chianina hamburgers, sushi, fresh pasta, dishes from the Tuscan tradition such as tripe and lamprey, high-quality meats, pizzas, fried food specials and artisan ice-creams, all under one roof? At the Central Market in Florence, a temple of taste located right in the city centre and housed on the first floor of the historic covered market of San Lorenzo, a magnificent example of iron and glass architecture built in 1874 from a design by architect Mengoni, also the author of the nearby market of Sant’Ambrogio and the famous Galleria Vittorio Emanuele in Milan. In this sort of modern “agora” for gourmets, in addition to the craft shops where you can 38 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I O C T O B E R 2018
browse and buy in the usual way, you can also take a seat at the large convivial tables and enjoy one of the many specialities that are prepared there on the spot. In a territory such as that of Florence, which is famous for the genuineness and quality of its dishes, the aim has been to protect consumers to the maximum: all the operators at the Central Market are in fact traders and artisans with a common passion for their profession who sign a quality specification whereby all the dishes prepared inside the market are cooked using only the raw materials on sale at the market itself. The market also holds food and wine tasting courses, book presentations and events of all kinds. >> www.mercatocentrale.it
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE
FOOD SHOPS Galanti Delicatessen and wine shop. Classic dishes as well as soups, pappa al pomodoro, ribollita, chicken galantines, to eat in, under the porticoes outside or to take away. Wide selection of wines and home-made jams. Everything made with extravirgin olive oil and prime quality ingredients. www.gastronomiagalanti.com. Open Mon-Sat 8.30am-8pm. Piazza della Libertà, 31/r. T: 055 490359. Off Map
Giumella
VEGAN With recipes based on the products of the Florentine countryside, this delicatessen offers organic zero miles food, made the same day. Recipes with cereals and legumes, seeds and seasonal products. Among the specialties: reseitan – stone-ground Tuscan durum wheat semolina with water, salt and lentils – plus vegan cheeses based on walnuts, almonds, sunflower seeds, oats or rice flour. www.giumellavegan.it. Open Mon-Fri 10.30am-8pm. Via Lorenzo di Credi, 12/r. T: 393 8221084. Off Map
Pegna
Classic. To find out where Pescecane will be stopping, check the website www.pescepane.it. It recently opened “La Cucina di Pescepane” in via Carducci, where you can find the same specialities. Open Tues-Sun 12 noon-3pm/7.30pm-10.30pm. Via G. Carducci, 3 (Sant’Ambrogio district). T: 055 2344397. Map L3
amidst little tables and large windows. Huge selection of over 380 makes of rum, unique in the whole of Florence. Open from lunch to aftersupper, also hosts events. cafe1926firenze.com. Via G.B. Niccolini, 30/r (Sant’Ambrogio district). T: 055 2346296. Map L2
Pugi
Opened in Florence in 1934, this family-run wine shop offers a wide selection of wines and spirits from all over Italy and abroad, with a particular focus on France. www.enotecabonatti. it. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via V. Gioberti, 66-68/r. T: 055 660050. Off Map
Florentine’s favourite bread shop since 1925. Known for its schiacciata (a type of sponge cake), reputed to be one of the best in town, in classic or rustic versions, and for delicious stuffed focaccia, pizza, fritters and a vast range of breads and pastries. www.fornopugi.it. Several locations: Piazza San Marco, 9/b. T: 055 280981 (open Mon-Sat 7.45am-8pm; Via San Gallo, 62/r. T: 055 475975 (open Mon-Fri 7.45am-3.15pm); Via G. Orsini, 63-65. T: 055 689763 (Open Mon-Sat 8.45am-7.45pm). Off Map
WINE SHOPS Caffè 19.26 This bistrot in the Sant’Ambrogio district does a selection of Tuscan wines, Italian spumanti and champagne, served in a Bohemian atmosphere
Enoteca Bonatti
Signorvino In the heart of the city just steps from Ponte Vecchio, the shop has a choice of 1500 labels of selected wines from the best Italian cantinas, applying the same formula used in its 15 outlets across the country. It also does simple quality food from the various regions. The terrace has a wonderful view of the Arno and Ponte Vecchio. www.signorvino.com. Open daily 9.30am-midnight. Via de’ Bardi, 46/r. T: 055 286258. Map F5
With over 150 years behind it, this shop has become part of Florentine history. Just steps from the Duomo, a historic drugstore with all kinds of Tuscan, Italian and international specialities: rare cheeses, salumi and prosciutti. Plus a vast choice of wines and imported products like spices, coffee, tea and chocolate. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. pegna.it. Via dello Studio, 8. T: 055 282701. Map G3
STREET FOOD Antico Vinaio If when walking along Via de’ Neri you happen to come across a queue of people with a hungry air, there can be no doubt: they are waiting for a schiacciata at the Antico Vinaio. Just a stone’s throw from Piazza della Signoria, it is considered among the best street food available in Italy: its filled schiacciata and boards of Tuscan cured meats, accompanied by a glass of Chianti, are eaten at the counter, on stools or walking around Florence. €. www.allanticovinaio.com. Via Dei Neri 65/r. T: 055 2382723. Map G5
Cucciolo
PASTRY SHOP Bar-patisserie in Via del Corso, famed in the city for more than 40 years for its “bomboloni” (fried doughnuts) baked on the spot, dunked in sugar and filled with cream or chocolate. Worth a visit just for the show: the freshly made bomboloni are carried up from the kitchen on a ramp in full sight before depositing them directly in the sugar. Open Tues-Thurs 7.30am-10pm; FriSun 7.30am-midnight. Via del Corso, 25/r. T: 055 287727. Map G3
Pescepane
FISH Panini, fish & chips, mozzarella in fried bread, fried fish … all some of the specialities of this itinerant Street Seafood food truck. The delicious and creative menu varies each day depending on the availability of ingredients, using sustainable and high quality produce, often organic, with vegetables of the season and homemade sauces. Apart from the great food there is the visual appeal of the historic Italian Apecar
The perfect place for an out-of-town stop Good, genuine food, a relaxed yet classy style and the magnificence of the Italian countryside all around you. There is everything you’d expect from Tuscany at Chiosco ai Renai, a rural eatery where it is possible to enjoy the tastes of the tradition, good wine and also a choice of original cocktails. With a garden with panoramic views and an internal dining room, the place is a reference point for those looking for tourist information, for those wishing to purchase a selection of organic products or for those hoping to come across a small art exhibition or to listen to a little live music. But, above all, it is an adorable place to stop by yourself, with your partner, family or friends, amid hammocks and tables, wine glasses and chopping boards, with Tuscany all around you. Lunches, aperitifs and snacks are all served over the course of the day. The eating place is located in Castelfiorentino, around 30 kilometres from Florence, in Val d’Elsa; it is also known as “little Florence” on account of its strategic importance in Florentine history and its wealth of architectural heritage. Chiosco ai Renai. Castelfiorentino (1 hour from Florence) - Via del Vallone, 34. Mob. 329 8938692
w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 39
DINING
Il Giardino restaurant
“The Garden” of flavours The charming setting of the historic centre of Florence acts as the backdrop for a secret garden in the city, where flavour plays the role of absolute protagonist. By Giulia Minero
A
fter crossing the hall of the Hotel Sina Villa Medici, an elegant building the charm of which has attracted numerous illustrious personalities over the years, your gaze is immediately captured by a well-kept internal garden. Here, directly overlooking the swimming pool, is the natural location for the Il Giardino restaurant, a temple of flavour where you can allow yourself a relaxing and appetising break. The menu, the product of the creativity of Japanese chef Yuichi Taharasako, has the Tuscan culinary tradition as its watchword, yet reinterpreted in a contemporary vein. Particular attention is devoted to the choice of raw materials, selected following the seasonality of the ingredients and always fresh, with their flavours brought out by original combinations. 40 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I O C T O B E R 2018
The restaurant’s guests can either choose the ‘Il Mare a Firenze’ [The Sea in Florence] tasting menu - with 3 or 5 fish-based courses consisting of proposals ranging from Steamed lobster, vegetable garden and Matcha tea to first courses with a multiethnic taste, which blend the local tradition with the flavours of the East, such as Grilled squid and shrimps with curried potato fondue, or else they can opt for the à la carte menu. Among the meat-based dishes, in addition to the traditional Tartare di chianina or Veal fillet marinated with burrata and peppers, it is also possible to taste one of the great classics of the Tuscan tradition, the Bistecca alla Fiorentina, cooked on burning coals and combined with cannellini beans. Completing the gastronomic experience is an extensive wine list, carefully
selected by an expert sommelier to bring out the flavour of each course and mirror the tastes of even the most refined palates. >> Il Giardino c/o Hotel Sina Villa Medici Via Il Prato, 42. T: 055 277171. www.sinahotels.com
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE
TUSCAN CUISINE 13 Gobbi Trattoria
In the heart of the old centre just steps away from the Lungarno, the Trattoria 13 Gobbi occupies a historic building where it offers authentic reinterpretations of the most genuine Tuscan recipes. Among the specialities of the house, rigatoni (served in a traditional stoneware tureen) and the inevitable bistecca alla fiorentina. €€. www.casatrattoria.com/ trattoria-13-gobbi. Via del Porcellana, 9/r. T: 055 284015. Map D3
Benedicta
EDITOR’S TIP The Benedicta restaurant, to which the Michelin Guide 2017 assigned 3 forks, is a pearl hidden away in a side street near Santa Maria Novella, inside the Rivoli Boutique Hotel. Italian and Tuscan cuisine revisited in a contemporary vein, with a menu based on locally sourced ingredients that changes every two months depending on the season. Open 7.30pm-11pm; closed on Sun. From late April to October you can dine in the romantic flower garden. €€. www.ristorantebenedicta.it. Via Benedetta 12/r. T:055 2645429. Map D2
Bordino Trattoria High up in a little street just a stone’s throw from the Ponte Vecchio, the Trattoria Bordino is always crowded with both locals and tourists because of its quality food at very affordable prices. The dishes are traditional, with bistecca alla fiorentina grilled directly on wood charcoal the speciality. A wide selection of Italian wines accompanies the dishes in a pleasant, relaxed environment. €€. www.trattoriabordino.it. Via Stracciatella, 9/r. T: 055 213048. Map F5
Cammillo A historic Florentine trattoria not far from Ponte Vecchio. Inside it is as if time stood still: the (very long) menu has practically all the classic Tuscan recipes, plus a few you wouldn’t expect like prawn curry with pilaf rice, actually one of Cammillo’s signature dishes. Also very good are the croutons with chicken livers, the ribollita, tripe, bistecca alla fiorentina and stuffed rabbit. €€. Borgo San Jacopo, 57/r. T: 055 212427. Map E5
Cibrèo Ristorante In Florence and in the area near the Market of Sant’Ambrogio, Cibrèo is a trademark for eating well. The Cibrèo Restaurant offers territorial and regional cuisine that is sincere and vigorous, with no fear of strong ingredients such as olive oil, garlic or Tuscan kale, drenched in personality, in the image of its founder Fabio Picchi. The products are strictly seasonal and arrive from rigorously selected farm, fisheries, sheep and cattle breeders. €€€. www.cibreo. com/ristorante. Via Andrea del Verrocchio, 8/r. T: 055 2341100. Map L3
Cibrèo Trattoria A few yards from the Cibrèo Ristorante (see listing), if you turn the corner, you find the trattoria that the Florentines call “Cibrèino”. Here you will find a substantial Tuscan menu, not very different from that of the restaurant, but with an atmosphere and a service that are more informal and at decidedly lower cost. Remember that it is not possible to book in advance here, so take into account that you will have to wait a while before being seated to eat. €€. www. cibreo.com/trattoria. Via de’ Macci, 122/r. Map L3
Da Burde The menu changes with the mood of the kitchen, and the seasons. Here you’ll find croutons with chicken livers, fiorentina, pappa col pomodoro, and ribollita.
Highlighted by the Michelin Guide as excellent value for money, the atmosphere has remained that of the early 1900’s, as has the food, simple but rich in flavour. A well-stocked cantina, with Tuscan and Piedmontese wines but also French, including some fine champagne. €€€. www.vinodaburde.com. Via Pistoiese, 154. T: 055 317206. Off Map
Fuor d’acqua The cuisine of the Tuscan tradition also includes fish dishes. And in this restaurant in the historic centre you can find the true taste of the sea thanks to the fish that arrives daily from Viareggio. The quality raw materials are cooked in the essential way, as in the Catalana and paccheri alla Trabaccolara and the main courses based on the day’s catch. €€€. www.fuordacqua.it. Via Pisana, 37/r. T: 055 222299. Map A3
IO Osteria Personale In the neighbourhood of San Frediano, which still conserves the charm of the most authentic Florence, surrounded by wooden ceilings and brick walls, a modern tavern that has a preference for the products of the territory, reinterpreting them in an innovative way. Among the titbits are crispy vitel toné, ravioli of wild salmon, whipped cream, ginger, herring caviar and dill or tagliatelle with raw red shrimps and seasonal mushrooms. €€. www.io-osteriapersonale.it. Borgo San Frediano 167/r. T: 055 9331341. Map B4
La Ménagère A concept restaurant not far from Battistero, combining restaurant, bistrot, florist and design store. In an ambiance of industrial design, the restaurant offers a high quality menu at affordable prices, combining traditional dishes based strictly on seasonal products, with a penchant for experimentation in the mix of flavours and textures. €€. www.lamenagere.it. Via De’ Ginori, 8/r. T: 055 0750600. Map F1
Latini (Il) Historic trattoria near Santa Maria Novella highlighted in the Michelin Guide. Besides bistecca alla fiorentina, there are pork chops and ribs on the Il Latini grill, as well as roast beef or lamb. Also available are Florentine tripe and peposo (peppery Tuscan beef stew), depending on the season. The cantina is well stocked with the best Tuscan wines, autochthonous and non, as well as the big French labels. €€€. www. illatini.com Via dei Palchetti, 6. T: 055 210916. Map D3
Locale Firenze A restaurant steeped in history, in an ancient building where by just descending a few steps you can travel - like in a time machine - from the Renaissance to 13th-century Florence, to the wine cellars that conserve Roman remains. It is possible to stop for just an aperitif with sophisticated cocktails, accompanied by small snacks, or stay for dinner with dishes from the tradition revisited in a contemporary vein. €€€. www.localefirenze.it. Via delle Seggiole, 12/r. T: 055 9067188. Map H3
Lungarno23 In the splendid setting of Lungarno Torrigiani, this restaurant is famous for its Chianina meat hamburgers, which are certified with the I.G.P. mark and come from small local farms. Forget the image of fast food, because here the hamburger is accompanied by fresh ingredients, hand-made sesame seed bread, freshly fried potatoes and browned onions. €€. www.lungarno23.it. Lungarno Torrigiani, 23. T: 055 2345957. Map G6
L’Ortone Situated in the emerging San Ambrogio foodie district, opposite the charming street market, the menu is based on typical Tuscan dishes, with a focus on traditional first courses and grilled specialities, including of course the fiorentina. If you want to try something more adventurous you can’t go wrong with the pork liver confit with kale and Boretto onions. €€. www.lortone.it. Piazza Lorenzo Ghiberti 87/r. T: 055 234 0804. Map L4
The “fiorentina”
Maccheroncino (Il) Those who don’t eat meat in Florence might encounter a few difficulties, but luckily there are also some excellent fish restaurants. Il Maccheroncino is a small seafood bistro located outside the tourist circuits, in the Rifredi neighbourhood. Fish dishes according to availability and typical products of the cuisine of Le Marche are prepared here with fresh and seasonal ingredients. €€. www.ilmaccheroncino. it. Via Reginaldo Giuliani, 43/r. T: 388 7575928. Off Map Buca Mario
Marione Trattoria Bistecca alla fiorentina is one of
The atmosphere of an old-fashioned trattoria in the most iconic dishes in Florence the historic centre of Florence. Here it is possible to cuisine. But be careful: to recognize taste the typical dishes of Tuscan cuisine surrounded the original and tell brick it apart from the by barrel vaults and baked floors. Ribollita, hundreds of impostors, there are and taglierini with truffle, bistecca alla fiorentina a few tipsmeats you need to know. Tuscan cured are among the most popular dishes. If you go at the weekend it is advisable to book in advance, becauseisthere is usually a Cooking a “fiorentina” a genuine ritual long queue of people waiting €€. www. with unwritten rules thatoutside. the visitor casatrattoria.com/trattoria-marione. della Spada needs to know to avoid fallingVia foul 27/r. T: 055 214756. Map E3
of the restaurant owner, paying over
the odds and to make sure they get Opera
Situated inside the Grand Hotel Adriatico, a few the real thing. steps from the coolest “Oltrarno” district, the Opera WHAT. This succulent steak is obtained restaurant offers dishes from both the Italian and from a specific cut of a young Chianina the typical Florentine and Tuscan culinary traditions. a part the loin near the backbone In acow, relaxed and of elegant atmosphere, with a music which has T-bone in the middle. background of athe most important operas, you can It should be grilled at alla a very high and the taste tortelli,tagliata, steak Fiorentina temperature, so that a fine crust forms traditional Florentine dessert ’zuccotto’. Its wine cellar deserves a special Open 7.30pmrapidly on the meat.mention. All the flavour of this 10.30pm; closed onon Sun. www.hoteladriatico.it. dish depends the€€.cooking: the meat Via must Maso be Finiguerra, 9. T:the 055outside 294447. Map C2 brown on but red,
soft and juicy on the inside, hot, but not Osteria Badalì
cooked through. is the firstdistrict, vital rule: Located in the heart ofThis a rather quiet SanaNiccolò. A culinary proposal fiorentina must be eaten that rare.revisits the traditions of the past, all about long cooking HOW. It should also be at least 3 or 4 cms times and essentials, starting with the study of old thick, and weigh between 1.2 kg and 1.5 cooking texts found on the second-hand book kgs, although bigger steaks are easily available. And here is another sore point. At a restaurant you pay for a fiorentina by weight. An average price to be sure of getting the real thing is around 50 euros a kilo. WITH. The traditional accompaniment is usually cannellini beans, washed down with a glass of Chianti. WHERE. Here are four restaurants where you can’t go wrong: Il Latini (www. illatini.com), Buca Lapi (www.bucalapi. com), Da Burde (www.vinodaburde.com) and Perseus (www.casatrattoria.com/ ristorante-perseus-firenze). (C.Z.)
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DINING
Top hotel restaurants traditional Tuscan and Italian dishes, prepared with seasonal products from the estate or the nearby countryside. Regional specialities typical of Tuscany, as well as the favourites of Italian cuisine. Il Palagio c/o Four Seasons Hotel Firenze Borgo Pinti, 99. T: 055 2626450 www.ilpalagioristorante.it A sophisticated ambiance with tables both inside and outside, Il Palagio is a Michelin-starred restaurant whose culinary offering looks to Italian and regional tradition with a modern touch. Chef Vito Mollica ventures far beyond the confines of Tuscan cuisine with dishes based on truffles, wagyu beef and three types of caviar. The wine list comprises more than 400 labels, of which 50 are also served by the glass. The hotel also has two other restaurants: La Magnolia and Trattoria al fresco.
Hostaria Bibendum
Tradition, innovation and creativity: Where® highlights some culinary destinations to whet your appetite in several top hotels in Florence. By Jasmine Piazza
Borgo San Jacopo c/o Hotel Lungarno Borgo San Jacopo, 62/R. T: 055 281661 www.borgosanjacopo.com On the banks of the Arno, with a postcard view of Ponte Vecchio, the Borgo San Jacopo restaurant is the perfect place for a romantic evening. The traditional Italian dishes are reinterpreted using fine quality ingredients by Michelin-starred chef Peter Brunel, accompanied by collector wines from a cantina of 900 labels. Capriccio Restaurant c/o Hotel Montebello Splendid Via G. Garibaldi, 14. T: 055 27471 www.montebellosplendid.com The restaurant is designed to ensure tranquility, out of the tourist circuit, and to satisfy you with class service and haute cuisine dishes. Quality products and absolute freshness for a couple’s candlelight dinner or a special event. Flora & Fauno c/o Hotel Ville sull’Arno Lungarno Cristoforo Colombo 3/5. T: 055 670971 www.hotelvillesullarno.com Facing the river and immersed in the lovely garden of the Hotel Ville sull’Arno, Flora & Fauno offers a peaceful spot with a vintage country feel in which to explore the flavours and aromas of Tuscany. Classic traditional recipes revisited in a contemporary accent. The protagonists on the menu are the local ingredients, juxtaposed sometimes in new and unexpected ways, at other times sticking to tradition.
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Golden Restaurant c/o Golden Tower Hotel & SPA Piazza Strozzi 11/r. T: 055 287860 www.goldentowerhotel.it The cuisine is based on the authentic flavours of Florentine and Italian wine and food, whose trump card is the guaranteed freshness and quality of the ingredients, chosen personally by the chef. Intimate and refined atmosphere, with high class furnishings and fittings.
Irene c/o Hotel Savoy Piazza della Repubblica, 7. T: 055 273 5891 www.roccofortehotels.com Inside the Hotel Savoy, a sumptuous fin-de-siècle building with an extraordinary collection of art works, the restaurant boasts a menu inspired by chef Fulvio Pierangelini, who together with head chef Giovanni Cosmai has designed a series of classic and new versions of Tuscan tradition, using the best local and seasonal products.
Il Giardino Restaurant c/o Sina Villa Medici Via Il Prato, 42. T: 055 2771891 www.sinahotels.com Tuscan specialities reinterpreted in a contemporary vein. A temple of flavours in the sophisticated ambiance of the Sina Hotel Villa Medici, an aristocratic 18th-century palace, recently renovated and restored to its former splendour.
J.K. Lounge Restaurant & Bar c/o JK Place Firenze Piazza di Santa Maria Novella, 7. T: 055 5321910 www.jkplace.com Here are Tuscan and Italian specialities made with local and seasonal ingredients, preferably organically farmed. In the summer months the elegant dining room, styled as a cosy living room, opens onto the terrace in the marvellous Piazza di Santa Maria Novella.
Hostaria Bibendum c/o Helvetia & Bristol Via dei Pescioni, 8/r. T: 055 2665620 www.starhotelscollezione.com This restaurant located in a magnificent 19th-century palace offers a menu inspired by tradition with a penchant for local producers and ingredients. Alongside more contemporary Italian dishes, a fully-rounded experience of Florence has to include Tuscan specialities such as panzanella, Chianti salumi and cheeses, pappa al pomodoro and honeylacquered duck, as well as desserts like cantucci with Vin Santo and Florentine sponge cake with Buontalenti gelato and vanilla topping.
La Cucina del Salviatino c/o Il Salviatino Via del Salviatino, 21- Fiesole (FI). T: 055 9041111 www.salviatino.com Majestic 15th-century villa in the hills of Fiesole, with a captivating view of Florence. Cuisine with strong links to the local territory and the seasons, with a prevalence of meat courses, though there is no shortage of fish and vegetarian dishes. The historic orchard and organic vegetable garden ensure zero food miles.
Il Conventino a Marignolle c/o Villa Tolomei Hotel & Resort Via di Santa Maria a Marignolle, 10. T: 055 3920425 www.ilconventinoamarignolle.com A very romantic view and frescoed rooms in a wonderful 12th-century villa surrounded by a vast estate comprising 20 hectares of olive groves, vineyards and orchards. The kitchen proposes
Le Bistrot c/o Villa Cora Viale Machiavelli, 18. T: 055 22 87 90 www.villacora.it The location in itself is extraordinary: an ancient park that dominates the Boboli Gardens, the aristocratic residence that once hosted princess Eugenia, wife of Napoleon III, and the French pianist Claude Debussy, among others. The menu, created by Executive Chef Alessandro Liberatore, offers traditional Tuscan dishes made exclusively with seasonal and for the most part
DINING
locally sourced products. In winter the restaurant occupies the exquisite oriental Sala Moresca with its frescoed cupola ceiling, while in the summer it moves poolside to the winter garden. Relais Le Jardin c/o Hotel Regency Piazza M. D’Azeglio, 3. T: 055 245247 www.regency-hotel.com Located in the elegant Sala Zodiaco, amidst huge mirrors, candles and a veranda that in summer opens onto the private garden, the restaurant’s chef Sandro Baldini proposes a rich array of Italian and Tuscan dishes (home-made pasta and regional specialities such as truffles, porcini mushrooms, costolette alla fiorentina and others besides) that vary depending on the season’s ingredients, always fresh and of the highest quality. Ristorante La Chiostrina c/o Bernini Palace Piazza San Firenze, 29 (Piazza della Signoria). T: 055 288621 hotelbernini.duetorrihotels.com One of the most elegant and sophisticated restaurants in the historic centre, housed under a 16th-century portico. The menu draws on the most genuine local flavours, such as the celebrated pappa
al pomodoro, for a sensory journey through Tuscan cuisine. Besides regional specialities, the menu also offers international dishes. Ristorante La Loggia c/o Belmond Villa San Michele Via Doccia, 4 - Fiesole (FI). T: 055 5678200 www.belmond.com This imposing 15th-century loggia is worth the visit just for its magnificent position looking over Florence. Regional Tuscan specialities and classic Italian dishes. Savini Tartufi Truffle Restaurant c/o NH Collection Firenze Porta Rossa Via Porta Rossa, 19. T: 055 3995913 www.savinitartufi.it/restaurants/savini-firenze Palazzo Bartolini houses one of the three restaurants in Italy run by Savini Tartufi, a family-owned business famed for nearly 100 years for its exclusive selection of truffles. Truffles are served all year round: from antipasto to dessert, savour the best varieties of fresh Tuscan truffles, from the Black Truffle and Tuber Borchii, to the more expensive White Truffle and Tuber magnatum Pico. Classic truffle items are flanked by other sophisticated dishes: tagliolino, egg, tartare. The menu also includes classic Tuscan dishes.
Se•Sto on Arno c/o The Westin Excelsior Florence Piazza Ognissanti 3. T: 055 27152783 www.westinflorence.com Local flavours and seasonal products for a Tuscan cuisine with a touch of innovation and an unforgettable view of Florence. On the sixth floor of The Westin Excelsior, SE•STO on Arno combines a restaurant, lounge, bar and garden enclosed by sweeping picture windows that make the most of the unique position and breathtaking view over the city. Villa La Vedetta c/o Villa La Vedetta Viale Michelangiolo, 78. T: 055 681631 www.villalavedettahotel.com Just moments away from the Piazzale Michelangelo belvedere, with a breathtaking view over Florence, is this discreet and elegant restaurant with a rich wine list, mainly focused on fine Tuscan reds. Local cuisine, with products and recipes typical of the region, so with meat, though there are plenty of vegan and vegetarian options too. Winter Garden by Caino c/o The Saint Regis Florence Piazza Ognissanti, 1. T: 055 27163770 www.wintergardenbycaino.com Immersed in the fin-de-siècle atmosphere of the Hotel Saint Regis Florence, the Michelin-starred restaurant Winter Garden by Caino, was born out of a creative liaison between chef Valeria Piccini and executive chef Michele Griglio. Their menu shines an innovative spotlight on the wonderful local cuisine, with suggestions from all parts of the globe. It ranges from the classic Tuscan dishes for strong stomachs such as tripe and lampredotto to more refined proposals like lobster tail on cream of topinambour and mandarin. The desserts, too, are a joy for both eyes and palate, in particular their original take on tiramisù.
Il Conventino a Marignolle
Savini Tartufi Truffle Restaurant
Borgo San Jacopo
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Michelin-starred restaurants
Bottega del Buon Caffè
Il Palagio
In addition to the historic and well established Enoteca Pinchiorri, with its prestigious three Michelin stars, there are seven other Florentine restaurants that have been awarded one star. Let’s enjoy them together. By Sophia Bertoli
Borgo San Jacopo c/o Hotel Lungarno Borgo San Jacopo, 62/r T: 055 281661 www.borgosanjacopo.com Overlooking the banks of the Arno, with a picture postcard view of Ponte Vecchio, the restaurant Borgo San Jacopo is perfect for a romantic evening. In this case the winning recipe is one that blends creativity, tradition and quality ingredients (lamb in sea water or Bresse rooster and octopus are an example of this), all washed down with wines chosen from a cellar of 900 labels. You can opt for the tasting menu (the potato-based one is unmissable) or à la carte. Bottega del Buon Caffè Lungarno Benvenuto Cellini, 69/r T: 055 5535677 www.borgointhecity.com/it/la-bottegadel-buon-caffe Zero food miles products gathered from the organic vegetable garden that the restaurant possesses in the Florentine countryside, meat reared by local farms and fresh fish. These are the strong points of the Bottega del Buon Caffè. On the Lungarno, in the shadow of the medieval Tower of San Niccolò, chef Antonello Sardi proposes a cuisine based on the use of seasonal ingredients, with a predilection for herbs and spices to bring out the flavours. The seasonal tasting menus include gems such as amberjack served in three ways (tartare, ’ventresca’, fillet) or home-made cappelletti with pigeon, butter and thyme.
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Enoteca Pinchiorri Via Ghibellina, 87 T: 055 242757 enotecapinchiorri.it How do you manage to be honoured with three Michelin stars, the highest recognition, which is only achieved by a hundred restaurants worldwide? In the case of the Enoteca Pinchiorri, it comes from the winning combination of prime quality raw materials, the search for innovation, yet without forgetting the territory’s (great) culinary tradition, obsessive attention to every detail and an unrivalled wine menu, which includes highly prized labels, along with others that are little known but equally interesting. Then we can add the fact that the restaurant is located inside the 18th-century Palazzo Jacometti-Ciofi and that its desserts are a delight for the senses. Il Palagio c/o Four Seasons Hotel Firenze Borgo Pinti, 99 T: 055 2626450 www.ilpalagioristorante.it Inside the Hotel Four Seasons, in a sophisticated environment with tables both indoors and outdoors, Il Palagio bases itself on a culinary proposal that looks to the Italian and regional tradition with a touch of modernity, as in the terrine of foie gras with Vin Santo gelée or cheese and pepper cavatelli with red shrimps and baby squid. Chef Vito Mollica offers a menu that is a symphony of flavours, raw materials and colours, at times
venturing far beyond the confines of Tuscany with dishes based on truffle, wagyu beef or three kinds of caviar. The wine menu includes more than 400 labels, 50 of which also served by the glass. La Leggenda dei Frati in Villa Bardini (Costa San Giorgio) Costa S. Giorgio, 6/a T: 055 0680545 www.laleggendadeifrati.it Inside the Villa Bardini museum complex in Costa San Giorgio is the one-star restaurant La Leggenda dei Frati. A breathtaking view over Florence and across vineyards at the rear, these are just the cherry on the cake of a creative culinary proposal, which in this case too draws its inspiration from the local tradition, with a propensity for quality meat (the boiled sausages and ’soppressata’ are self-produced), but also for vegetables picked directly from the restaurant’s own vegetable and herb garden and for the hand-made bread using flour from ancient grains. Ora d’Aria Via dei Georgofili 11/r T: 055 20016 9 www.oradariaristorante.com An hour of air to escape from culinary boredom. We don’t know if the owner had this in mind when he gave this name to his restaurant, just a stone’s throw from Ponte Vecchio, but it certainly gives that impression. Tuscan chef Marco Stabile is playing at home with dishes that are a reminder of granny’s recipes but tending towards a more creative contemporary style. Lovers of strong flavours can delight in dishes such as soft-crisp piglet or pigeon cooked in three ways. For lunch the choice of the "tapas" formula allows you to try a selection of small portions of gourmet dishes. The wine cellar boasts Tuscan wines, but also prized Italian and French labels and a highly select menu of beers.
DINING
Borgo San Jacopo
Ora d’Aria
Winter Garden by Caino c/o Hotel Saint Regis Piazza Ognissanti, 1 T: 055 27163770 www.wintergardenbycaino.com Steeped in the fin-de-siècle atmosphere of the Hotel Saint Regis Florence, the Winter Garden by Caino has come about from the creative liaison between chef Valeria Piccini and executive chef Michele Griglio. Their menu brings the territory’s great cuisine back to the limelight in an innovative way, with elements from every part of the globe, ranging from classic Tuscan dishes for strong stomachs such as tripe and lampredotto to more refined proposals, such lobster tail on topinambour and mandarin cream. Also the desserts, particularly the ’Diversamente Tiramisù’, are a joy for the eyes and the taste buds.
Winter Garden by Caino
La Leggenda dei Frati
Enoteca Pinchiorri
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Florentine foods terms ’Lampre…’ what’s that? Florence has a multitude of culinary specialities of peasant origin that are still very popular in the city today. Some are so niche as to be unknown outside Florence, let alone to foreigners. So we’ve decided to put together a glossary of Florentine food terms to help you find your way among the soups, animal parts you never thought you could eat and distinctive eateries. By Chiara Zaccarelli cuisine” containing liver, chicken hearts, crests, eggs, lemon juice and onion. Even though presented like that it seems to be an inauspicious mixture, it is famous for having been one of the favourite dishes of Caterina de’ Medici, who attempted - unsuccessfully - to export it to France and it seems she was so fond of it that it gave her indigestion a number of times.
PHOTOS © SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
Lampredotto
CANTUCCI This is one of the best-known cake recipes in Tuscan cuisine. The finger-shaped almond biscuits are made by slicing up a long roll of baked dough while still hot. The dough is made with flour, sugar, eggs, butter and raw almonds, not toasted or shelled. Tuscans normally dunk their ’cantucci’ in a fortified local wine called Vin Santo made from dried grapes. You can find them in any bakery or local foods shop. CIBREO A dish for strong stomachs, Cibreo is a typical main course of Florentine “poor
stalls and based above all on homemade pasta and traditional soups, as well as pork products. €€. www. badaliosteria.it. Via dei Renai 11/r. T: 055 2264422. Map H6
Touch Bistrò Toscano Three young entrepreneurs who met over the hobs of the hotelier institute have made their dream a reality by opening this bistro that favours the use of seasonal ingredients selected from the nearby market of Sant’Ambrogio in the neighbourhood of the same name. The menu, which gives a touch of freshness to the Tuscan tradition, proposes, among other things, ravioli di ossobuco, fried egg and fagioli all’uccelletto, but also monkfish and squid. €€. touchflorence.com. Via di Mezzo 42/r. T:055 2466150. Map I3 46 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I O C T O B E R 2018
LAMPREDOTTO This is Florentine street food par excellence. But watch out, it’s not for weak stomachs. Actually it’s a cow’s fourth stomach, known as the ’abomaso’, cooked in a herb broth and most commonly served in a panino soaked in the broth or topped with the local parsleybased green sauce. Historically a poor man’s dish, it is still very popular in Florence today thanks to the numerous open-air kiosks known as “lampredottai”, doing a roaring trade with Florentines as well as tourists who can’t wait to try this speciality, accompanied by the obligatory glass of wine. PAPPA COL POMODORO On the face of it this is just another variant of bread and tomatoes. But until you’ve tried this soup made of stale bread (unsalted), tomatoes, garlic, basil, extra virgin Tuscan olive oil, salt and pepper, you’ll never guess how good it is. Everyone loves this tasty,
Tuscani 3 (I) If you love “ciccia” (which is what Tuscans call red meat), you must not miss this steakhouse and delicatessen that is very famous in the city. Located in the heart of the historic centre, a few steps from Piazza della Repubblica, it obviously offers the typical bistecca alla fiorentina but also selections of Tuscan pork, cured meat boards or steak tartare and hamburger made rigorously with Chianina meat. €€. http://ituscani3.com.Via Dante Alighieri 18/r.T: 055 285356. Map F4
Zeb Just moments away from Piazzale Michelangelo and the Giardino delle Rose, Zeb - highlighted by the Michelin Guide - serves a host of traditional Tuscan dishes such as cappellacci, tripe,
Ribollita
genuine dish, including the kids. So much so there’s even a popular children’s song all about it. RIBOLLITA Another delicious country dish typical of Florence and the whole of central Tuscany is ribollita, a soup made of stale bread, kale and beans (borlotti, toscanelli or cannellini). ’Ribollita’ literally means boiled several times. The name derives from the fact that in the old days peasants used to make a large pot and serve it, heated up, over a number of days, each time tastier than before.
Pappa col pomodoro
lampredotto, meat balls and stuffed rabbit. A tiny place, the diners eat at the bar, like a delicatessen (actually, its former identity). There is a large selection of Italian wines, with a special focus on small local producers. €€. www.zebgastronomia. com. Via San Miniato, 2. T: 055 2342864. Map H6
CANTINE Antica Mescita San Niccolò Ever wanted to eat lunch in a 1000 AD Romanesque crypt? In Florence you can, at the Antica Mescita San Niccolò, which also used to serve as a customs post for wine originating from Chianti. Naturally, the wine is excellent and predominately Tuscan and the food also reflects the season and the local territory, with dishes such
DINING as cold cuts and mixed cheeses, ribollita, bistecca alla fiorentina and lampredotto, to name just a few. €€. www.osteriasanniccolo.it. Via San Niccolò, 60/r. T: 055 2342836. Map H6
Buca Lapi This is one of Florence’s oldest eating places. Crafted out of the wine cellars of the Renaissance Palazzo Antinori, it still preserves traces of over a century of history thanks to the meticulous restoration of the internal frescoes. Buca Lapi is particularly popular with lovers of the real fiorentina, but the other local Tuscan dishes are worth trying too, such as croutons, ribollita or wild boar with polenta. €€€. www.bucalapi.com. Via del Trebbio 1/r. T: 055 213768. Map E3
Buca Mario For years ordinary folk have rubbed shoulders with famous names beneath the bare brick ceilings of Buca Mario to enjoy simple, genuine Florentine cuisine (although you can still request a private room for up to ten people in classic 16th-century Florentine style). The bistecca alla fiorentina is excellent, as is the ribollita or pappardelle with Maremma boar ragù. €€. www.bucamario.com. Piazza degli Ottaviani, 16/r. T: 055 214179. Map D3
Buca Poldo
Fiaschetteria Nuvoli Just a few steps from Piazza Duomo is an obligatory destination for anyone who has ever wondered what Florence’s old wine cellars were really like in the past. Open from 8.30 in the morning until evening, it serves typical Tuscan specialities such as chicken liver croutons, cold cuts, tagliatelle al ragù, fried chicken or brains, ribollita, pappa col pomodoro and roast porchetta. There is also a vast choice of Tuscan wines, also available for aperitifs. Piazza dell’Olio, 15/r. T: 055 239 6616. Map F2
Ristorante Buca dell’Orafo A few yards from Ponte Vecchio, in an old goldsmith’s workshop inside the walls of a 13th century palace, is the restaurant Buca dell’Orafo. Traditional Tuscan dishes and menus that vary depending on the season testify to the quality of the ingredients. Don’t miss the ribollita, the maltagliati (flat, irregular offcuts of pasta), autumn mushrooms and taglierini with fresh spring peas. www.bucadellorafo.com. Via dei Girolami, 28/r. T: 055 213619. Map F5
INTERNATIONAL & ETHNIC CUISINE
A few yards from Piazza della Signoria and Ponte Vecchio, Buca Poldo serves characteristic Tuscan dishes including ribollita, pappa al pomodoro, fiorentina and boar stew, as well as a few forays into other regional cuisines. Although the majority of the courses are meat based, some fish dishes are also available. The kitchen is open on two sides, so that diners can watch the chefs at work. www. bucapoldo.com. Chiasso degli Armagnati, 2/r. T: 055.239.6578. Map F4
Koko
Buca San Giovanni
One of Florence’s historic Japanese restaurants, where alongside the classic sushi and sashimi there are rolls with creative combinations, soups, raw meats and fish, chicken teriyaki, udon and other hot dishes, in the tradition of the Rising Sun. Located over the Arno in the cool San Frediano district, on weekdays at lunchtime it turns into a noodle bar. €€€€. www.ristorantemomoyama.it. Borgo S. Frediano, 10. T: 055 291840. Map D4
Buca San Giovanni is another of Italy’s historic restaurants. Originally the sacristy of the nearby Baptistery of Saint John opposite Florence cathedral, it was also the Rosicrucian masons’ secret initiation venue and countless notables from Florence and elsewhere have enjoyed a meal under its ancient vaults. There is no lack of classic dishes such as ossobuco alla Fiorentina (oxtail) and stracotto al Chianti (beef braised in Chianti), but the cuisine also stretches to other Italian regional specialities, such as bucatini all’amatriciana, spaghetti alla carbonara or linguine al pesto. www. bucasangiovanni.it. Piazza San Giovanni, 8. T: 055 287612 Map F2
Sophisticated chic and fine Japanese cuisine off the main tourist circuits. Besides the classic raw fish dishes (vast selection of tartare, carpacci, sushi and sashimi) Koko’s particular speciality is teppanyaki – various ingredients cooked on an iron griddle. In the private room guests can also dine on tatami. €€€€. www.kokorestaurant.it. Piazza F. Ferrucci, 4/5 r. T: 055 6587428. Off Map
Momoyama
Rooster Firenze
NEW OPENING A new arrival in the Rooster family, which already boasts one American-style bar in the city. The concept is that of the restaurant/cocktail bar, just a few steps from Piazza della Repubblica,
serving classic American meals such as hamburgers, ribs and BBQ, using prime Tuscan ingredients, preferably organically sourced. €. www.roosterfirenze. com. Via Porta Rossa, 63/r. T:055 2645006. Map F4
PIZZA O’Munaciello Housed in a 17th-century monastery in the historic Santo Spirito quarter, it recreates the atmosphere of a Naples street, complete with hanging washing and masks typical of Neapolitan Commedia dell’arte. Besides wood oven pizzas, here you can try other traditional Campania dishes, with products from small producers and consortiums situated along the coast. Every Wednesday night there’s live music (Neapolitan). €. www.munaciello.com. Via Maffia 31/r. T: 055 287198. Map D5
Pizza Man Right in the city centre, this colourful Neapolitan school pizzeria with a fun atmosphere does glutenfree and 100% vegan pizzas as well as the traditional variety. Now those with a food intolerance or special dietary needs don’t have to go without a tasty pizza. €. www.pizzaman.it. Via dell’Agnolo 105/107r. T: 055 2480200. Map H4
Pizzaiuolo (Il) Just steps from the Sant’Ambrogio market, this is one of Florence’s oldest pizzerias. Here again the pizza is Neapolitan: wood oven cooked, with quality in-season toppings, mostly sourced from Campania. The rest of the menu also follows Neapolitan tradition, with first courses of fish and local desserts such as babà and pastiera. €. www.ilpizzaiuolo.it. Via dei Macci, 113/r. T: 055 241171. Map I3
Pizzeria Spera One of Florence’s favourite pizzeria’s even won the world’s pizza championship a few years ago. This simple and intimate little place just outside the old centre serves a light crispy pizza with a choice of different types of bread dough and a full range of quality toppings. €. www.pizzeriaspera.it. Via della Cernaia, 9/r. T: 055 495286. Off Map
Santarpia In a room decorated with blue and brown handpainted tiles, the wood oven turns out pizzas made with choice, slow-rising flours, tomatoes from Vesuvius and mozzarella from Campania cheese makers. All accompanied by craft beers or wines from small producers. €. www.santarpia.biz. Largo Pietro Annigoni, 9/c.T: 055245829. Map L3
L’ORTONE L’Ortone is in Piazza Ghiberti, opposite the charming Sant’Ambrogio street market. The menu draws inspiration from Tuscan cuisine (painstakingly revisited) and offers a wide choice of antipasti, first courses and grilled specialities, including of course the bistecca alla fiorentina. Opened in 2014, it has always relied on young but expert and professional staff. A good mix of elegance and sobriety. Open daily.
www.lortone.it Piazza L. Ghiberti, 87/r. T: 055 2340804.
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ENTERTAINMENT
Giardino dell’Orticoltura, Tepidario
Green passion A discreet and poetic garden and the splendid Villa Bardini form the green backdrop for two events linked together and dedicated to a passion for botany. By Jasmine Piazza
T
he Giardino dell’Orticoltura in Florence is a very special place, one of the city’s most beautiful green oases, an almost concealed location, which reveals itself to visitors as soon as you go through the entrance. Created in the mid-19th century, it boasts a splendid greenhouse (Tepidario), designed in 1880 by architect Giacomo Roster, which has recently been restored and is now a venue for exhibitions and events. On the first weekend in October the Autumn Market Exhibition of plants and flowers takes place, organised by the Tuscan Horticulture Society; it is a lively botanical fair that is open to all, in which the best Tuscan and Italian floriculturists participate. Connected to this event, but with its headquarters in the romantic Villa Bardini, the 48 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I O C T O B E R 2018
“Florentia” international exhibition of botanical art also takes place, with the participation of 39 of the most prestigious artists in the world, who present around 80 works created exclusively using the watercolour technique. >> Autumn plant and flower exhibition 6-7 October Giardino dell’Orticoltura, Via Vittorio Emanuele II, 4 / Via Bolognese, 17 Entry free of charge 9am-7pm www.societatoscanaorticultura.it >> Florentia - International exhibition of botanical art 29 September-7 October Museo di Villa Bardini, Costa San Giorgio, 2 www.villabardini.it
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE
APERITIVI Chiaroscuro Opened in 1999 as a place to celebrate coffee, Florentines today are attracted by the original and genuine snacks. Coffee, hot chocolate and aperitifs served in a popular bar-cafe furnished with a retro touch. Until 9.30pm. www.chiaroscuro. it. Via del Corso, 36/r. T: 055 214247. Map G3
Easy living Better known to Florentines as the “spiaggina” (little beach), its location is quite singular: this strictly summer-only bar is built right on the river-bed of the Arno, opposite Torre San Niccolò, from where patrons can enjoy a leisurely aperitif with a stunning view of Ponte Vecchio, often with live music. There is always a cooling breeze, a big plus in a sweltering Florence summer. www. easylivingfirenze.it. Piazza G. Poggi. T: 055 2341112. Map I6
Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura The style of one of the world’s favourite fashion brands, a star chef and an incomparable location, surrounded by Florentine art. Popular at any hour, aperitifs are a particularly draw. www.gucci.com. Piazza della Signoria, 10. T: 055 75927038. Map F4
Il Locale Ideal at any time of day, but perfect for aperitifs, located in a small street not far from the Duomo. Hanging garden, lounge bar, cantina and intimate snugs, all beautifully restored. Exquisite nibbles and excellent wine list. www.localefirenze.it. Via delle Seggiole, 6. T: 055 9067188. Map G3
(more than 1500 labels, also to buy), coffee, aperitifs and snacks. Delicious Tuscan and other regional bites. Rooftop terrace with view of Ponte Vecchio. www.signorvino.com. Via de’ Bardi, 46/r. T: 055 286258. Map F5
and French toast. Designer atmosphere. www. dittaartigianale.it. Via dei Neri, 32/r. (Santa Croce district). • T: 055 2741541 or Via dello Sprone, 5/r. (Santo Spirito district). T: 055 0457163. Map E5
Three Sixty
“The right food from the right places” is the motto of this little restaurant where the quality and traceability of the ingredients is the holy grail. An original and genuine light lunch, with the option of half portions. Tuscan street food and fast food, including lampredotto and pecorino, chianina and croutons, besides pasta and soups. 11am till midnight. Intimate bistrot in the Santa Croce district. www.foodyfarm.it. Corso dei Tintori, 10/r. T: 055 242327. Map H5
From May to September the Grand Hotel Minerva, next to Santa Maria Novella, opens its magnificent panoramic terrazza with swimming pool to outside guests. Aperitifs from 7pm. www. grandhotelminerva.com. Piazza di Santa Maria Novella. T: 055 27230. Map E2
Zoe Cocktails and apericena accompanied by hookah, in a bar with essential modern furnishings and soft lighting. For years a favourite with the younger crowd, always a lively atmosphere in the trendy San Niccolò district. www.facebook.com/ zoebarfirenze. Via dei Renai, 13. T: 055 243111. Map H6
BRUNCH Ditta Artigianale Founder Francesco Sanapo finished sixth in a contest held in Melbourne in 2013 involving competitors from 60 countries to find the world’s best coffee barista. Back in Florence, he opened this bistrot which, besides the exceptional coffee, serves a brunch menu (from 9am to 3.30pm) ranging from Greek yogurt and crudités to bacon
Foody Farm
Odeon Bistrot Burgers, brunch and aperitifs in this beautiful little restaurant with a very elegant exterior, white columns and vaulted ceiling. Open each day from 8.30 in the morning till 3 at night, for snacks and traditional Tuscan dishes as well as an exceptional wine list. City centre, next door to its namesake cinema. www.odeonbistro.it. Piazza degli Strozzi, 8/r. T: 055 215654. Map E4
Procacci This delicatessen founded in 1885 has become an ins titution, and not only in Florence, especially for its truffle-based specialities and impeccable selection of wines. Combines a gourmet food shop and wine bar in a relaxing
Il Rifrullo In 1981 it was the first American Bar in Florence and it has never lost its appeal as a rendezvous for both Florentines and visitors, renovated several times but still a landmark. You can enjoy its rightly acclaimed aperitifs and abundant buffet in the garden in summer or in front of the fire in winter. www.ilrifrullo.com. Via San Niccolò, 55/r. T: 055 2342621. Map H6
Moyo PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
Aperitifs and light dinner in a locale that offers international cuisine, cocktails and DJ set in a modern and stylish setting, a landmark of Florentine nightlife. www.moyo.it. T: 055 2479738. Via dei Benci, 23/r. Map H4
Rivalta Cafè Aperitifs, DJ set and Italian menu in a chic venue that combines modern furnishings and frescoed ceilings. The sight of the Arno at dusk always attracts a crowd. www.rivaltacafe.it. Lungarno Corsini 14/r. T: 055 289810. Map E4
Rooftop Bar La Terrazza Cocktails and champagne on an elegant patio furnished to contemporary taste, looking over at the medieval Consorti Tower. On the top floor of the Hotel Continentale. www.continentalehotel. com. Vicolo dell’Oro, 6. T: 055 27265987. Map F4
Se·Sto on Arno The Westin Excelsior opens its bar for aperitifs every evening from 7pm to 9pm. Two large terrazze provide a 360° view over the marvels of Florence. www.westinflorence.com. Piazza Ognissanti, 3. T: 055 27151. Map C3
Signorvino This wine bar on two floors offers Italian wines
Flying over Tuscany If you happen to only be in Florence for a weekend, why not opt for a panoramic tour from a different perspective, perhaps in a hot-air balloon? Balloon in Tuscany, a ADVERTORIAL company recognized by the Associazione Aerostatica Toscana, offers its guests itineraries lasting between 45 and 90 minutes flying over some of the region’s most unmissable destinations, including cities of art and charming landscapes. Various launch points – located in Florence, Siena and San Gimignano, as well as in the heart of the Chianti hills – enable you to personalize your itinerary to the maximum, at the same time enjoying the exhilaration of flight, the beauty of unprecedented scenery and the discovery of historical and cultural landmarks guided by pilots who are experts on the locations. www.balloonintuscany.com
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ENTERTAINMENT atmosphere, with delicious snacks to eat in. 10am till 9pm (Sunday from 11am till 8pm). Historic venue in the heart of Florence. www.procacci1885. it. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 64/r. T: 055 211656. Map E3
Teatro del Sale
Santa Croce, and hosts all genres of performance. Inaugurated in 1854, since 2000 it has been owned by the Orchestra of Tuscany, which is based there. www.teatroverdifirenze.it. Via Ghibellina, 99. T: 055 212320. Map H4
Theatre-club-lounge-restaurant inspired by Florentine celebrity chef Fabio Picchi – formerly patron of the legendary Cibreo restaurant – and co-founder, president and artistic director Maria Cassi. Every day from 12-noon it serves a highly original brunch of buffet food and hot snacks at a fixed price of 15 euros (20 euros on Saturday and Sunday). From Tuesday to Saturday (7.30pm-9pm), dinner with after-dinner show, both at a fixed price of 30 euros. www.teatrodelsale.com. Via dei Macci, 111/r. (Sant’Ambrogio district). T: 055 2001492. Map I3
Teatro Goldoni
CONCERT VENUES & THEATRES
The Teatro del Maggio is in the centre, beside the old city walls, next to the historic Stazione Leopolda (see listing). The garden that welcomes visitors is Piazzale Vittorio Gui, named after the founder of the Stabile Orchestrale Fiorentina and the Florentine Maggio Musicale. Symphony concerts and operas are performed in a contemporary space in a large wood-covered hall. www.operadifirenze.it. Piazzale V. Gui, 1. Off Map
Teatro Comunale The Teatro Comunale di Firenze is the city’s largest theatre. Overall, it occupies approximately half a block between corso Italia, via Magenta and via Solferino. The main theatre has seating for around 1800, but also part of the complex is a foyer called the “Piccolo Teatro”, which can hold a little under 600 spectators. The name “Comunale” [Municipal] dates back to 1933, when the Florentine Maggio Musicale was established (see entry), but the theatre itself dates back to the second half of the 19th century. www. operadifirenze.it. Corso Italia, 16. T: 055 27791. Map B2
Teatro Verdi The largest "Italian-style" theatre in Tuscany is located in Florence, in the historic district of
Inaugurated in 1817 in the presence of Ferdinand III of Habsburg-Lorraine, thanks to its proximity to Palazzo Pitti it soon became the court theatre. Oval-shaped, with 80 boxes distributed over four orders, the theatre experienced a period of abandonment. After a lengthy restoration, it returned to its original pomp in 1998, with a historical design by Italian director and actor Luca Ronconi. www.operadifirenze.it. Via Santa Maria, 15. T: 055 2779309. Map C6
Teatro del Maggio
Stazione Leopolda Inaugurated in 1848, it was Florence’s first railway station: it was decommissioned, and today has become a sought-after venue for meetings, conferences and various events. A versatile, multifunctional space, it has its name associated with the recent history of Italy, being the venue of the event that launched the career of Florentine politician Matteo Renzi. www.stazione-leopolda. com. Viale Fratelli Rosselli, 5. T: 055 212622. Map A1
Visarno Arena It is located inside the Ippodromo Visarno racecourse, located in Florence in the Parco delle Cascine. Surrounded by greenery and with seating for 60,000, the area is the favourite venue for major open-air events. Active since 2015, it has already hosted, among others, concerts by David Gilmour, Massive Attack, Einsturzende Neubauten, Sting and Duran Duran, but also the 2015 and 2016 editions of World Refugees Day. www.visarnoarena.it. Parco delle Cascine (approx. two kilometres from the Central Station of Santa Maria Novella). Off Map
WELLNESS Bené SPA This 5-star luxury Villa Cora spa is found on the ground floor of Villino Eugenia and connected to the main hotel complex by an underground tunnel. It comprises a tepidarium, leisure area, small gym, sauna, hammam and three large private cabins for personalised treatments. The crowning glories are two prestigious partnerships: tailored face treatment products by beauty guru Sarah Chapman; and the body range from the historic Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, founded in Florence in 1612. www. villacora.it. Viale Machiavelli, 18. T: 055 228790. Off Map
Firenze Number Nine This 4-star spa presents itself as an “Urban Wellness Hotel” that claims to be “the only city centre spa under original 15th-century vaults.” A 400-square metre spa offering a full range of treatments, open every day, also to outside guests, though the under 16’s are not admitted. Very well known, among Florentines too, is the Arya Beauty & Comfort Zone, again linked to the hotel (but closed on Tuesdays). www. firenzenumbernine.com. Via dei Conti, 9. T: 055 293777. Map F3
Four Seasons SPA A Four Seasons standard spa right in the heart of Florence. Ten body treatment cabins, a spa suite, plus open-air pool. Exclusive treatments like the Chianti massage and Tuscan cypress scrub are just the start of your wellness journey. Treatments for teens and children also available. The supermodern fitness centre is located in the quiet of the Gherardesca Garden. www.fourseasons.com. Borgo Pinti, 99. T: 055 26261. Map L1
Golden Beauty & SPA This extremely stylish facility in the historic centre of Florence offers a Turkish bath, emotional showers, hydromassage, sauna and treatment zone plus expert care and advice. Part of the 5-star Golden Tower hotel, but also open to outside guests as the beauty centre annex every day from midday till 8pm. www.goldentowerhotel. it. Piazza Strozzi, 11. T: 055 287860. Map F4
Il Villino SPA
THE FLORENTINE MAGGIO MUSICALE The Maggio is Italy’s first musical festival and since 1933 it was offered high-quality operas, concerts, dance shows and theatre events. The orchestra and the festival now live under the artistic direction of Zubin Mehta. www.operadifirenze.it
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A historic villa, completely renovated in 2014, the new Hotel Ville sull’Arno 5-star luxury boutique resort is very popular with Florentines. The Villino is a unique spa, studded with original details, luxury materials, and hand-made decorations by Florentine craftsmen, offering a wide range of treatments, from hydromassage to the ice cascade. www.planetariahotels.com. Lungarno C. Colombo, 1/3/5. T: 055 670971. Off Map
ENTERTAINMENT
SPA VENUES IN TUSCANY
Bagni San Filippo
Bagni San Filippo A small town not far from the slopes of Mount Amiata, famous for millennia for its sulphur waters, which were used by the Etruscans, and for the white calcareous deposits that form the small, spectacular hot water falls (48 °C) of the Fosso Bianco. Unlike the well-being and spa treatment centre, access to this area is free of charge. Terme San Filippo, www.termesanfilippo. it. Via San Filippo, 23. T: 0577 872982. B&B Il Fosso Bianco, Via San Filippo, 22. T: 392 3449596. Bagni San Filippo (Siena).
PHOTOS © SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
Bagno Vignoni This tiny ancient stone village has one unique and unforgettable characteristic: at its centre is Piazza delle Sorgenti, an ancient pool measuring 49x29 metres (not for bathing) where the spar waters are collected, gushing out at a temperature of 52 °C and shrouding the village in evocative steam during the cold months. Albergo Le Terme, www.albergoleterme.it. Piazza delle Sorgenti, 13. Bagno Vignoni di San Quirico d’Orcia (Siena). T: 0577 887150. Spa Resort Hotel Adler Thermae.
Bagno Vignoni
A region rich in natural thermal springs, Tuscany offers nothing but an embarrassment of choice from among the numerous structures spread out across the territory, particularly in the areas of Siena and Grosseto. In addition to the famous and historic Montecatini and Chianciano, full-blown health towns, there are more “discreet” structures, often associated with resorts, offering a different experience of relaxation and wellbeing. Here are some suggestions. (E.P.)
www.adler-thermae.com. Strada di Bagno Vignoni, 1. San Quirico d’Orcia (Siena). T: 0577 889001. Castello di Velona An 11th-century fortress transformed into a residential villa in the Renaissance, the castle - now a 5-star resort - is located on a hill overlooking the greenery of the Val d’Orcia. between Sant’Antimo and Montalcino. The indoor and outdoor swimming pools (and the bathrooms of some of the rooms) use water from a nearby thermal spring originating on Mount Amiata. Castello di Velona Resort Thermal SPA & Winery, www.castellodivelona.it. Località La Velona, Montalcino (Siena). T: 0577 839002. Grotta Giusti The spectacular Grotta Giusti, on the outskirts of Montecatini, is a natural cave that winds its way among stalactites and stalagmites to a stretch of crystal clear water, the temperatures of which vary from 27°C to 34°C. Above all mud therapy and balneotherapy are practised there in baths enriched with ozone to stimulate the
metabolism of the blood vessels. Grotta Giusti, www.grottagiustispa.com. Via Grotta Giusti, 1411 - Monsummano Terme (Pistoia). T: 0572 90771. San Casciano dei Bagni Classified among the “Most Beautiful Towns of Italy”, San Casciano stands on a hill immersed in the Siena countryside. The Bagno Grande and the Bagno Bossolo are ancient washtubs where it is possible to bathe freely, while there are indoor and outdoor baths, wellbeing treatments and a splendid resort at Fonteverde, sheltered by a magical garden with views of Mount Amiata. Fonteverde. www.fonteverdespa.com. Località Terme, 1 - San Casciano dei Bagni (Siena). T: 0578 57241. Saturnia - Cascate del Mulino Among the most beautiful free thermal baths in the world, the Cascate del Mulino are small natural pools supplied by small waterfalls that form a unique, unrepeatable environment. Next to them, the Terme di Saturnia complex has spring water pools, a wellbeing centre and a 5-star resort. Cascate del Mulino, www.cascate-delmulino.info. Terme di Saturnia Spa & Golf Resort, www.termedisaturnia.it. Località Follonata, Saturnia - Manciano (Grosseto). T: 0564 600111. Terme di Petriolo The thermal baths are sited on a natural spring in the Valley dell’Ombrone, along the course of the River Farma. The waters, rich in salts, gush out at a temperature of 43 °C and are traditionally used to treat various pathologies of the respiratory tracts. www. termedipetriolo.it. Strada Provinciale di Petriolo, Monticiano (Siena). Petriolo Spa Resort, www.atahotels.it/ hotel/petriolo-spa-resort. Località Bagni di Petriolo, Frazione Pari, Civitella Paganico (Grosseto). T: 0577 1606059.
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SIGHTSEEING |
MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS
Through Marina’s body “The Cleaner” tells the whole story of the art of Marina Abramović, who invades all the spaces of Palazzo Strozzi with her works and her 50-year career history. By Elena Peverata
A
i Weiwei, Bill Viola, Carsten Höller and now Abramović: Palazzo Strozzi continues with its project to bring the greatest contemporary artists to Florence, now for the first time devoting all the spaces of the magnificent Renaissance building to a woman, one of the most famous, controversial personalities in contemporary art. With her works Marina Abramović, a Serbian naturalised in the USA, has revolutionised the idea of performance. In her exhibitions, which are often extreme, she has tested her own body’s limits and potential for expression, very often to the point of risking its very integrity. Coming about through the direct collaboration with the artist, this genre of retrospective brings together around 100 works, offering an overview of her most famous projects 52 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I O C T O B E R 2018
from the 1970s to the 2000s through videos, photographs, paintings, objects, installations and daily live reruns of her famous performances using performers specifically trained for this exhibition. This is an extraordinary opportunity to discover the complexity of the art of Abramović, whose works range from strong, violent and risky actions to silent, gestural exchanges of energy, to genuine encounters with the public, whose participation has become increasingly important in her latest works and will contribute to making The Cleaner a genuine living experiment. >> Marina Abramović. The Cleaner 21 September 2018-20 January 2019 Palazzo Strozzi. Piazza Strozzi www.palazzostrozzi.org #MarinaFlorence
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE ALL CONTRIBUTIONS RELATED TO MUSEUMS AND EVENTS ARE BY Elena Peverata Lifestyle & Culture Editor Where ® Italia
ATTRACTIONS & MONUMENTS Duomo and Cupola Completed in 1436, at the time the Duomo in Florence was the largest Christian church in the world. Today the religious building, whose official name is “Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore”, is third in terms of dimensions after St. Peter’s in Rome and St Paul’s Cathedral in London. The most important artists of the period participated in its creation (the bell tower is by Giotto), while the famous multi-coloured marble façade dates back to the 19 th century. Brunelleschi’s Dome, still the tallest construction in the city, is a symbol known all over the world: it is possible to climb to the top (exclusively on foot) up its 463 steps. www. ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza del Duomo, 3/56. T: 055 2302885. Map F2
Battistero Located opposite the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, the Baptistery of St. John the Baptist is the building that completes the considerably striking appearance of the square. Its origins are uncertain, but its first official dating is at least in the 12th century. It is characterised by an octagonal plan, lined with a dome of eight segments, covered by a pyramid roof. The outside is decorated with white marble from Carrara and green marble from Prato, characteristics of the Florentine architecture of the Romanesque period. It has three famous doors, sumptuously decorated, and an interior that, with its marble and mosaics, is reminiscent of that of the Pantheon. Used in antiquity for the investiture of knights and poets, its praises are sung by Dante in the Divine Comedy. www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo. it. Piazza di San Giovanni, 8. T: 055 2302885. Map F2
Tribunale della Mercanzia, Palazzo Uguccioni and Palazzo delle Assicurazioni Generali. Also prominent in the square are the Fountain of Neptune and a series of statues of Renaissance origin, representing one of the most important sculptural cycles in the world. The most famous is certainly Michelangelo’s David: the one on display in its original position is a copy, whereas the original is conserved in the Galleria dell’Accademia. Map F4-G4
stretches along the Arno, over the Ponte Vecchio, finally arriving at Palazzo Pitti. It was built in 1565 by the great Florentine architect Giorgio Vasari. On display along the Corridor are over 1000 paintings created between the 17th and 19th centuries and an important collection of self-portraits by great artists including Filippo Lippi, Rembrandt, Velázquez, Delacroix and Ensor. www.uffizi.it. Piazzale degli Uffizi, 6. T: 055 294883. Map E6-E5-F5-G5
Palazzo Vecchio
Palazzo Pitti and Giardino di Boboli
Located in piazza della Signoria, today it is the seat of the Municipal Council of Florence. It is the finest synthesis of 14th-century civil architecture and is one of the best known civic buildings in the world. Its imposing façade, abounding in history, the charm of its magnificent courtyards and its precious interiors make it a site visited daily by hundreds of people. www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Piazza della Signoria. T: 055 2768325. Map G4
Ponte Vecchio There has been a bridge at this point of the River Arno ever since before the year one thousand; yet, between floods and reconstructions, the official date of foundation of the current Ponte Vecchio is given as 1345. For the entire Middle Ages the bridge hosted greengrocers’, fishmongers’ and butchers’ shops, who used the river to dispose of their waste in a hurry. At the end of the 16th century, however, when it became the “noble” zone of the city, the goldsmiths and jewellers started to arrive, and they have been there uninterruptedly to this day. To celebrate this history, on prominent display on the bridge is a bust of Benvenuto Cellini, the greatest goldsmith of the Renaissance. Access is gained to the bridge between via Por Santa Maria and Lungarno degli Archibusieri and between Borgo San Jacopo and via de’ Guicciardini. Map F5
Corridoio Vasariano The Vasari Corridor is a raised walkway connecting Ponte Vecchio with Palazzo Pitti. It is a rather narrow passage the entrance to which is at the beginning of the second corridor of the Uffizi Gallery; it then
The symbol of wealth and power, the building was inhabited by the Medici in the period of their maximum splendour, then by the HabsburgLorraines and, after the Unity of Italy, by the Savoy family. The original architecture dates back to the 15th century and “Pitti” is the surname of its first owner. The building is located Oltrarno (on the left bank of the river), at the foot of Boboli Hill. It is from the latter that the famous Boboli Gardens take their name; they are one of the most important examples of Italian-style gardens in the world and are considered a genuine open-air museum on account of their admirable architectural and landscaped layout and their collection of sculptures, attracting approximately 800 thousand visitors a year. Currently they are the site of four different museums: the Treasury of the Grand Dukes, the Palatine Gallery and the Royal Apartments, the Gallery of Modern Art and the Museum of Fashion and Costume. They are connected to Forte di Belvedere. www.uffizi.it/palazzo-pitti. Piazza de’ Pitti, 1. T: 055 294883. Map E6
Piazzale Michelangelo Piazzale Michelangelo is the most famous and appreciated panoramic point in Florence, with its views seen all over the world in million of postcards and reproductions. The design of the square dates back to 1869, when Florence was capital of Italy. Dedicated to the city’s most famous artist, the square has bronze copies of some of Michelangelo’s most famous sculptures. Access to the Piazzale can be gained by car, along the tree-
FIRENZECARD
Campanile di Giotto 84.70 metres high and around 15 wide, a manifestation of 14th-century Florentine Gothic architecture, the Giotto’s bell tower is one of the four main components of the complex of Santa Maria del Fiore, in piazza del Duomo. Lined with white, red and green marble, like that adorning the Cathedral, the majestic squarebased bell tower, designed by Giotto in 1334, can be visited by climbing no less than 414 stairs up to the top, from where you can enjoy extraordinary views of Brunelleschi’s Dome. www. ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza del Duomo. T: 055 2302885. Map F3
Piazza della Signoria This is the central square of Florence, the seat of civil power and social heart of the city. L-shaped, it is located at the centre of medieval Florence south of the Cathedral. Already important in the Roman Age, the square has been gradually enhanced over the centuries; facing onto it are Palazzo Vecchio (see entry), the splendid Loggia della Signoria, the
Firenzecard costs €72, allows access to 72 museums and is valid for 72 hours from the initial entry to a museum on the Circuit. It can be purchased online or from one of the authorised sales points in Florence. It includes: • 1 entry ticket + 1 exhibition supplement + 1 priority ticket for each museum on the Firenzecard circuit • Priority access to museums without needing to book • 72 hours available www.firenzecard.it
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lined Viale Michelangelo, or on foot, by climbing the monumental flight of steps known as the “Rampe del Poggi”, which start from piazza Poggi in the neighbourhood of San Niccolò. Map I7
San Miniato al Monte Not far from Piazzale Michelangelo, in via delle Porte Sante, stands the Abbey of San Miniato al Monte, a medieval religious building situated at one of the highest panoramic points in Florence. The most spectacular access is gained via the monumental flight of steps (which is not advisable, however, for those with problems walking). The outside of the church is decorated with green and white marble, typical of Florentine Romanesque, while a 12th-century mosaic decorates the central part of the façade. The interior, which is unusual and of great beauty, boasts one of the city’s best conserved original floors. www.sanminiatoalmonte.it. Via delle Porte Sante, 34. T: 055 234 2731. Off Map
Mercato Centrale Built at the end of the 19th century in the period in which Florence was capital of Italy, the Central Market is a building of a certain architectural merit located between piazza del Mercato Centrale and via dell’Ariento, via Sant’Antonino and via Panicale. The project was entrusted to Giuseppe Mengoni, the architect of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele in Milan, who was inspired by Les Halles in Paris. Since 2014, on the first floor of the historic covered market there has been a complex containing dozens of small restaurants, leisure activities and street food options, and this has now become a point of reference for informal but good quality cuisine for both Florentines and tourists. www.mercatocentrale.it. Piazza del Mercato Centrale/Via dell’Ariento. T: 055 2399798. Map F1
Santa Croce Together with Santa Maria Novella, San Lorenzo and Santo Spirito, it is one of the “great basilicas”, a point of reference of the Franciscan order: a radiant example of Tuscan Gothic, it owes its sober appearance of wooden trusses and terracotta floors to Franciscan charisma. Giotto painted some of his great masterpieces here and the French writer Stendhal experienced that profound artistic agitation that has been known since then as the “Stendhal syndrome”. The basilica contains the monumental sepulchres of Michelangelo, Galileo and Machiavelli and for this reason was celebrated by the Italian romantic poet Ugo Foscolo as a temple of “italic glories”. www. santacroceopera.it. Piazza Santa Croce, 16. T: 055 2466105. Map H4
Santa Maria Novella Together with Santa Croce, San Lorenzo and Santo Spirito, it is one of the “great basilicas”, a point of reference of the Dominican order. Its foundation dates back to the end of the 13th century but work on it continued for centuries, so the church, with its elegant façade by Leon Battista Alberti, is a harmonious synthesis of Gothic and Renaissance styles. The church of Santa Maria Novella hosts exceptional works of art by Masaccio, Giotto, Brunelleschi, Filippino Lippi, Domenico Ghirlandaio and Paolo Uccello. www. smn.it. Piazza Stazione, 4 - piazza Santa Maria Novella, 18. T: 055 219257. Map D2-E2
Santo Spirito Together with Santa Croce, San Lorenzo and Santa Maria Novella, it is one of the “great basilicas”, a point of reference of the Augustinian order. The church has given its name to the entire surrounding neighbourhood, “Borgo Santo Spirito”, located “Oltrarno”, that is, on
the left bank of the river. A jewel of Renaissance architecture, the church was the last great project by Filippo Brunelleschi and conserves elegant and austere rationality in its architectural plan. In the interior there is also a wooden crucifix carved by a young Michelangelo. www.basilicasantospirito.it. Piazza Santo Spirito, 30. T: 055 210030. Map D5
San Lorenzo Together with Santa Croce, Santo Spirito and Santa Maria Novella, it is one of the “great basilicas” of Florence, founded, according to the tradition, by Saint Ambrose, the first bishop of Milan, in the fourth century AD: it is therefore one of the oldest churches in the city. Its current appearance, however, is the result of the last major reconstruction work that took place in the 15th century at the wishes of the Medici and under the direction of the great architect Filippo Brunelleschi. Its bare stone façade was intended to receive a rich marble decoration designed by Michelangelo, which unfortunately was never executed. The interior is a masterpiece, also embellished by sculptures by Donatello of rare expressive intensity. www. operamedicealaurenziana.org. Piazza di San Lorenzo, 9. T: 055 216634-055 214042. Map F2
MUSEUMS & EXHIBITION SITES Basilica di San Lorenzo This is one of the “great basilicas” of Florence, the oldest (see "Monuments&Attractions"), the current appearance of which is the result of the radical renovation begun in 1418 by Giovanni di Bicci, founder of the Medici dynasty. The complex conserves key works by Brunelleschi, Donatello, Michelangelo, miniated codices, sacred goldsmithery and paintings from the 15th to the 20th century, and is structured into the Basilica (with the Old Sacristy and the Treasure Museum), the Medici Chapels (which form a separate museum, see the relative indications) with the New Sacristy and the Museum, in the Laurentian Library (see entry). Open Mon-Sat 10am-5pm. Sundays: from 1 March to 31 October 1.30pm5.30pm. Closed: Sundays from 1 November to 29 February, 1 and 6 January, Easter, 10 and 15 August, 8 and 25 December. Full ticket price: Basilica €6, Basilica + Medici Library €8.50. www. operamedicealaurenziana.org. Piazza di San Lorenzo 9. T: 055 216634-214042. Map F2
Basilica di Santa Croce
UFFIZI GALLERY - LEONARDO ROOM Before leaving for Milan in 1482, Leonardo had taken his first artistic steps in Florence in the workshop of Verrocchio. Three precious works from this formative period are held in the Uffizi and now find a new location in the museum’s renovated Room 35, the layout design of which recalls the walls of the churches of the period for which the paintings were created. www.uffizi.it
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A splendid example of Tuscan Gothic (13th century), it owes its sober appearance, with wooden trusses and terracotta floors, to the Franciscan order. The Basilica, the cloisters, the Sacristy, the Pazzi Chapel and the Museum of Opera are all part of the visitors’ itinerary. Mention must be made in particular of the sepulchres of Michelangelo Buonarroti and Galileo Galilei, the masterpieces by Giotto (Bardi and Peruzzi Chapels, Baroncelli Polyptych), by Taddeo Gaddi ( The Last Supper, The Tree of Life) by Donatello ( The Annunciation, Crucifix, Saint Louis of Toulouse), by Agnolo Gaddi (Alberti and Castellani Chapels) and by Cimabue (the famous Crucifix). Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-5.30pm; Sun and holidays 2pm-5.30pm. Closed 1 January, Easter, 13 June, 4 October, 25-26 December. www. santacroceopera.it. Piazza Santa Croce, 16 (visitors’ entrance: Largo Bargellini). T: 055 2466105. Map I5
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Biblioteca Marucelliana A precious archive of rare pieces established between the 17th and 18th centuries by Abbot Marucelli, it conserves 500,000 volumes, manuscripts and prints. The ancient reading rooms, including the magnificent and spectacular “Salone”, are visitable during opening hours or with a guided visit (by booking in advance). Open Mon-Thurs 8.30am-6pm, Fri 8.30am-4pm. Closed Sat-Sun, 1 and 6 January, Easter, 25 April, 1 May, 2 June, 24 June, 15 August and 2 weeks in the second half of August, 1 November, 8 and 25-26 December. www.maru.firenze.sbn.it. Via Cavour, 43-45. T: 055 2722200. Map G1
Palazzo Pitti Museums
Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana
Cappella Brancacci The Church and the Convent of Santa Maria del Carmine, dating back to the mid-13th century, house the Brancacci Chapel, a masterpiece that is universally renowned for the frescos of the cycle of Scenes from the Life of St. Peter by Masaccio and Masolino da Panicale. Executed in 1425-1427, they were left unfinished and were eventually completed by Filippino Lippi between 1481 and 1482. Access is permitted to the chapel by groups of a maximum of 30 people and the stay time is 30 minutes. You are advised to book (T: 055 2768224-8558). Open MonSat 10am-5pm, Sun and holidays: 1pm-5pm. Closed on Tues and 1 January, 7 January, Easter, 16 July, 15 August, 25 December. Full ticket price: Wed-Fri €6; Sat-Sun-Mon: Brancacci Chapel+Fondazione Salvatore Romano €7. www.museicivicifiorentini. comune.fi.it. Piazza del Carmine, 14. T: 055 2768224558-2382195. Map C5
Cappelle Medicee Since 1869 the Medici Chapels have been a state museum, but their history is closely associated with that of the Basilica di San Lorenzo, of which they are part (see entry). The museum consists of the New Sacristy, designed and conceived as regards its sculptural furniture by Michelangelo, the Chapel of the Princes, a monumental mausoleum built using semi-precious stones, the Crypt, where the Medici Grand Dukes and their relatives are buried, and the Lorenese Crypt, which, in addition to the remains of the Lorena family, contains the funeral monument to Cosimo the Elder, founder of the dynasty. The museum also holds a part of the Treasure of the Basilica: sacred vestments and magnificent shrines. Open daily 8.15am-1.50pm; from 9 April to 4 November 8.15am-5pm. Closed: 1st, 3rd, 5th Monday and 2nd, 4th Sunday of the month, 1 January, 1 May, 25 December. Full ticket price: €8. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it/ musei/2/medicee | www.operamedicealaurenziana.
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Part of the museum complex of the Basilica di San Lorenzo (see entry), it is one of the finest examples of the architecture of Michelangelo. Commissioned by Pope Clement VII (a Medici) and completed at the wishes of Grand Duke Cosimo I in 1571, entry is gained by ascending the monumental staircase designed by Michelangelo and built by Bartolomeo Ammannati in 1559. The stained-glass windows were created by Flemish craftsmen from designs by the Vasarian school. The Library conserves approx. 11,000 Greek, Latin and Oriental manuscripts, often richly miniated, dating from the 5th to the 19th century, in addition to papyruses and rare print editions. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-1.30pm. Closed Sat, Sun and holidays. Full ticket price: Basilica + Medici Library €8.50. www.bmlonline.it. Piazza di San Lorenzo, 9. T: 055 2937911. Map F2
A palace for three dynasties, this extraordinary building (see Attractions&Monuments) is located in the Oltrarno, at the foot of Boboli Hill. The famous Boboli Gardens, which are the park of the palace, a genuine open-air museum (see Museo Giardini di Boboli), take their name from this hill. Palazzo Pitti currently contains four different museums. Treasures of the Grand Dukes (ground floor and mezzanine) Conserved in what were the summer apartments of the Medici family are the precious “Treasures of the Medici”: vases made of semi-precious stones, rock crystals, ambers and ivories, the exceptional collection of Oriental porcelains; there is also the silverware of the so-called “Treasure of Salzburg”, an important collection of jewels created between the 17th and 20th centuries, and a significant section dedicated to contemporary jewellery. Palatine Gallery and Monumental Apartments (noble floor) The 14 sumptuously furnished rooms of the Royal Apartments offer a fascinating blend of styles telling of the daily lives and tastes of the various periods and families that lived there. The “Quadreria”,
the Picture Gallery, established between the 18th and 19th centuries by the Lorena family, includes the world’s largest concentration of works by Raphael, as well as paintings by Titian, Tintoretto, Caravaggio and Rubens. Gallery of Modern Art (second floor) Today the sumptuous environments that were once the residence of the Lorena family house paintings and sculptures, mostly Italian, from Neoclassicism to the 1930s, with an important group of paintings by the Macchiaioli school. Museum of Fashion and Costume (Palazzina della Meridiana) This museum possesses a stock of six thousand items, including ancient clothing, theatrical costumes and fashion accessories from the 18th century to today, in addition to underwear, jewels and costume jewellery. Included among the costumes are the 16th-century burial clothes of Cosimo I de’ Medici, Eleonor of Toledo and their son. Open Tues-Sun 8.15am-6.50pm. Closed on Mondays, 1 January, 1 May, 25 December. Museum full ticket price: €16 (1 Mar/31 Oct)/€10 (1 Nov/28 Feb). www.uffizi.it/ palazzo-pitti. Piazza de’ Pitti, 1. T: 055 294883.
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org. Piazza Madonna degli Aldobrandini, 6. T: 055 282984. Map F2
Cenacolo di Sant’Apollonia In around 1447 Andrea del Castagno frescoed the back wall of the refectory of the ancient Benedictine monastery of Sant’Apollonia (1339) with The Last Supper, The Crucifixion, The Deposition and The Resurrection. Other outstanding frescos by Andrea del Castagno and paintings from the monastery are also on display in the museum. Open daily 8.15am1.50pm. Closed 1st, 3rd, 5th Saturday and Sunday of the month e 1 January, 1 May, 15 August, 25 December. Free entry. www.polomusealetoscana. beniculturali.it. Via XXVII Aprile, 1. T: 055 2388608/610.Off Map
Fondazione Palazzo Strozzi Palazzo Strozzi is one of the finest examples of private architecture of the Renaissance and a dynamic cultural centre that hosts international level exhibitions, ranging from ancient art to the Renaissance, to contemporary art. Always present are an exhibition devoted to Palazzo Strozzi, the café and the museum shop, which looks out onto the Renaissance courtyard, where concerts, performances, contemporary art installations and theatrical plays are organised. Open daily and holidays 10am-8pm, Thurs 10am-11pm. Museum full ticket price: €12. www.palazzostrozzi.org. Piazza Strozzi. T: 055 2645155. Map E3
Fondazione Salvatore Romano The museum is housed in the ancient Cenacolo (14th century) of the convent, built beside the church of Santo Spirito, the ancient function of which is recalled by the imposing fourteenth-century fresco by Andrea Orcagna that decorates its eastern wall, with fragments of a Last Supper at the bottom and
a superb Crucifixion at the top. The museum houses works donated to the Municipality of Florence in 1946 by collector and antiquarian Salvatore Romano, a precious collection of sculptures, fragments of architectural decoration, detached frescos and furnishings of various origins and from periods between the ancient Roman Age and the 17th century. Entry to the Cenacolo is gained directly from Piazza Santo Spirito, to the left of the façade of the church. The museum is contained entirely within the vast setting of the Cenacolo. Open Mon and Sat 10am-5pm, Sun and holidays: 1pm-5pm. Closed 1 January, 7 January, Easter, 16 July, 15 August, 25 December. Full ticket price: Brancacci Chapel+Fondazione Salvatore Romano €7. www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Piazza Santo Spirito, 29. T: 055 287043. Map D5
Forte di Belvedere At the end of the 16th century, Ferdinando de’ Medici commissioned Bernardo Buontalenti to design a fortress on the top of Boboli Hill, to incorporate a villa to be used as a “belvedere” by the Grand Duke’s court. Despite its strategic position, it was never used for defensive purposes; however, a vault was created in the underground floors to house the state treasury. The fort currently hosts top-level events and exhibitions. Open exclusively on the occasion f temporary exhibitions. Full ticket price: €3. www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Via San Leonardo, 1. Map F7
Galleria degli Uffizi The Gallery occupies the whole of the first and second floors of the large building erected between 1560 and 1580 based on a project by Giorgio Vasari; it is one of the most famous museums in the world on account of its extraordinary collections of ancient
sculptures and paintings (from the Middle Ages to the modern age). The collections of paintings from the 14th century and the Renaissance contain a number of absolute masterpieces of the art of all time: from Giotto to Simone Martini, Piero della Francesca, Beato Angelico, Filippo Lippi, Botticelli, Mantegna, Correggio, Leonardo, Raphael, Michelangelo, Caravaggio and Canaletto. There are also important
The niches of the loggia of the UFFIZI GALLERY designed by Vasari, contain 28 sculptures of illustrious men, including this one of Giotto, created by Giovanni Dupré in 1845. collections by German, Dutch and Flemish painters, including Dürer, Rembrandt and Rubens. The Museum also houses the famous Department of Drawings and Prints and the Classical Antiquities Collection. Open Tues-Sun 8.15am-6.50pm. Closed on Mondays, 1 January, 1 May, 25 December. Museum full ticket price: €20 (1 Mar-31 Oct)/€12 (1 Nov-28 Feb). www.uffizi.it. Piazzale degli Uffizi, 6. T: 055 23885.Map F5
Galleria dell’Accademia di Firenze The Galleria owes its vast popularity to the presence of a number of sculptures by Michelangelo: the Prisoners, St. Matthew, but above the famous David, transported here from Piazza della Signoria (where it was replaced by a faithful copy) in August 1873. Housed in the adjacent premises, which were originally two convents, are works coming from the Academy of Design, the Academy of Fine Arts and the convents themselves, which were abolished in the Napoleonic Age. And also, the Gipsoteca, or Hall of Models, the collection of Russian icons and musical instruments of the courts of the Medici and Lorena families. Open Tues-Sun 8.15am-6.50pm. Closed on Mondays, 1 January, 1 May, 25 December. Museum full ticket price: €8 (from January 2019: full ticket price €12). www.galleriaaccademiafirenze. beniculturali.it. Via Ricasoli , 58/60. T: 055 2388609/612. Map G2
Galleria Rinaldo Carnielo
MUSEO DEGLI INNOCENTI This new museum - which was the first orphanage in Europe (15th century) - opened to the public in 2016 and combines art, architecture and the history of Childhood all together. Its museum itinerary is developed around the theme of welcoming. www.istitutodeglinnocenti.it
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Conserved in the townhouse in Liberty style that was the home-studio of Rinaldo Carnielo (1853-1910) are over three hundred sculptures by the artist and a number of paintings by artists who were his contemporaries, such as Silvestro Lega, Michele Gordigiani and Arturo Calosci. An exponent of late 19th-century commemorative statuary, Carnielo had close relations with the environment of the Macchiaioli, of whom he was a friend and passionate collector. Museum temporarily closed to the public. www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Piazza Savonarola, 3. Off Map
Gino Bartali Cycling Museum The museum is located at Ponte a Ema, the locality where the great cycling champion Gino Bartali
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was born and began his competitive career. The building, completed in 2006, contains a store of cycles from various periods, enabling visitors to recognise their technical evolution, the actual museum, with displays of velocipedes, bicycles, clothing and relics documenting the history of cycling and the feats of Gino Bartali and other champions, and finally collections of period newspapers, publications and films. Open Fri-Sat 10am-1pm, Sun and holidays: 10pm-4pm. Closed 1 January, Easter, 1 May, 15 August, 25 December. Free entry. www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Via Chiantigiana, 175 - Ponte a Ema (30 minutes from Florence). T: 055 287043. Off Map
Museo degli Innocenti The Museum is located in the ancient Spedale degli Innocenti, a masterpiece of Renaissance architecture designed by Brunelleschi. Opened in 1445 as a refuge for abandoned children, today it continues its function as the “Institute of the Innocents”. The museum itinerary combines the documentary and historical-artistic heritage, and in its Gallery hosts precious artworks by Sandro Botticelli, Domenico Ghirlandaio, Bartolomeo di Giovanni, Piero di Cosimo, Neri di Bicci and Luca and Andrea della Robbia. EDITOR’S TIP On the terrace the elegant Caffè del Verone offers beautiful panoramic views. Open daily 10am-7pm. Closed 1 January, 25 December. www.istitutodeglinnocenti.it. Piazza Santissima Annunziata, 13. T: 055 2037308. Map H1
Museo del Bigallo The headquarters of two ancient benevolent institutions, the Compagnia della Misericordia and the Compagnia del Bigallo, the so-called Loggia del Bigallo is a complex the construction of which was begun in 1352. A precious record of the history of Florence, the museum conserves wonderful frescos from the 14th century, including the Virgin of Mercy (1342), presenting the first famous view of Florence and precious panels from the 14th and 15th centuries. Access only for pre-booked guided visits (T: 055 288496): Mon-Sat 10am, 12 noon, 3pm; Sun and holidays 10am and 12 noon. Free entry. www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Piazza San Giovanni, 1. T: 055 288496. Map F3
Museo di Palazzo Vecchio For over seven centuries Palazzo della Signoria, or Palazzo Vecchio, has been the symbol of the city’s civil power, and today it is still the seat of the Municipal Council of Florence. Built in 1299, over time it has undergone numerous enlargement and transformation projects. Along its labyrinthine routes are rooms and private environments sumptuously decorated by some of the most famous artists of the Florentine Renaissance, with period furnishings and exceptional masterpieces such as Judith and Holofernes by Donatello, The Genius of Victory by Michelangelo and Verrocchio’s Cherub. Open daily, from 1 April to 30 September: 9am-11pm; from 1 October to 31 March: 9am-7pm. Thursdays throughout the year: 9am-2pm: Closed on 25 December. Museum full ticket price: €10. www.museicivicifiorentini. comune.fi.it. Piazza della Signoria. T: 055 2768325. Map G4
Museo di Santa Maria Novella The complex of Santa Maria Novella includes the 13th-century Dominican Basilica and the monumental cloisters. The church contains extraordinary works such as Giotto’s Crucifix, Masaccio’s Holy Trinity, Brunelleschi’s Crucifix, the Tornabuoni Chapel by Ghirlandaio and his workshop and the Strozzi Chapel by Filippino Lippi. The cloisters present rare examples of the Florentine painting of the 14th and 15th centuries. The Ubriachi Chapel and ancient Refectory house a permanent exhibition of gold jewellery, sacred furnishings and liturgical vestments, part of the church’s ancient Treasury, plus a series
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of paintings. Open: Mon-Thurs 9am-7pm (from 1 April to 30 September); 9am-5.30pm (from 1 October to 31 March). Fridays throughout the year: open from 11am. Saturdays throughout the year 9am-5.30pm; Sundays and Holidays 1pm5.30pm. Closed on 25 December. Full ticket price: €7.50. www.smn.it, www.museicivicifiorentini. comune.fi.it. Piazza Stazione, 4 - piazza Santa Maria Novella, 18. T: 055 219257- 055 282187. Map E3
Museo di Storia Naturale - "La Specola" Zoology Section Opened to the public in 1775, “La Specola” is one of Europe’s oldest science museums. It possesses a collection of over 3.5 million animals (5,000 exhibited to the public) and the largest collection in the world of 18th-century anatomical waxworks illustrating the entire human body in every detail (visitable by booking in advance, T: 055 2756444). Open Tues-Sun 9.30am-6.30pm (1 Oct-31 May), Tues-Sun 10.30am-5.30pm (1 Jun-30 Sept). Closed on Mondays and 1 January, Easter, 1 May, 15 August, 25 December. Full ticket price €6. www.msn.unifi.it. Via Romana, 17. T: 055 2755100. Map H1
Museo Galileo Housed in the historic Palazzo Castellani, its unique collections include ancient scientific instruments datable between the 11th and 19th centuries, including all of Galileo Galilei’s original instruments. One group consists of the collection of instruments of the Medici dynasty, the other of the objects subsequently gathered together by the Grand Dukes of Lorraine. Open daily 9.30am-6pm, Tues
The Museum houses works designed and built for the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, the Bell Tower and the Baptistery: it is a unique collection, with masterpieces by Arnolfo di Cambio, Ghiberti, Donatello, Luca della Robbia, Antonio Pollaiolo, Verrocchio and Michelangelo, in addition to paintings, goldsmithery, liturgical vestments, ancient work tools, models and architectural projects. Open daily 9am-8pm. Closed: 1st Tuesday of the month, 1 January, Easter, 25 December. Single ticket for the Museum and all the monuments of the Duomo (Dome, Baptistery, Giotto’s Bell Tower): €18 (online). www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza del Duomo, 9 (ticket office Piazza San Giovanni, 7). T: 055 2302885. Map G2
Museo dell’Opificio delle Pietre Dure An elegant collection of works made of semiprecious stones and multi-coloured marble and scagliola, paintings on stone and oil paintings, instruments, plus an extensive collection of stone samples. The works are displayed in chronological order from the early 17th century to the 1880s. Open Mon-Sat 8.15am-2pm. Closed on Sundays and holidays. www.opificiodellepietredure.it. Via degli Alfani, 78. T: 055 218709. Map H1
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Museo dell’Opera del Duomo
The memory of water
Florence has an intense relationship with its river: the Arno is part of the city’s history, its geography, its image and its very identity. Unfortunately, over the centuries, Florence has not only experienced its life-giving energy, but also its destructive power: the Arno, in fact, has burst its banks on a number of occasions, causing damage and fatalities. The plates that are to be found on numerous façades indicate the height reached by the river: these are the numbers and dates that Florence wanted to engrave on its walls. In particular, on 4th November 1966, Florence experienced the most serious flood in its recent history: it was a dramatic and frightening episode, and the inhabitants’ memory of it is vivid. Looking around you, you will find numerous plates that commemorate it, but you will have to raise your gaze, because the water reached heights of between 4 and the 5 metres. The official number of victims was thirty-five.
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EXCLUSIVE FLORENCE MAP by Where® Italia Hand-drawn with Indian ink and watercolours, using the ‘bird’s eye view’ technique. Illustrator Mario Camerini is currently working on reproducing remarkable maps of Italian cities.
headquarters for his company and his workshop – and in its rooms it displays masterpieces of Florentine art from the 17th and 18th centuries. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Closed 1 January, 1 May, 15 August, 25 December. Full ticket price €6. www. ferragamo.com/museo. Palazzo Spini Feroni, Piazza Santa Trinita, 5/r. T: 055 3562-846/466. Map E4
Museo Stefano Bardini A connoisseur of art and an unbridled merchant in antiquities, Stefano Bardini (1836-1922) donated his private collection to Florence, where it was displayed in the Neo-Renaissance building (formerly the church and convent of San Gregorio della Pace) that housed his antiquarian gallery. There are over 2000 items there, including sculptures, paintings and objects of applied arts, from ancient art to that of the 18th century, with a major presence of works from the Middle Ages and the Renaissance. Among its most significant works are St. Michael the Archangel by Antonio del Pollaiolo, the Madonna of the Ropes by Donatello and Guercino’s Atlas. Open Fri-Sat-SunMon 11am-5pm. Closed on 1 January, Easter, 1 May, 15 August, 25 December. Full ticket price €6. www. museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Via dei Renai, 37 (Ponte alle Grazie). T: 055 2342427.Map G6
Museo Stibbert
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Museo Giardini di Boboli Stretching out behind Pitti Palace are the marvellous Boboli Gardens. It was the Medici who were first responsible for designing their layout, creating the model of the Italian-style garden that was to become an example for many European courts. Populated by ancient and Renaissance statues, adorned with grottos - including the famous Buontalenti Grotto - and large fountains, such as those of Neptune and the Ocean, they are a genuine open-air museum. The terraced area includes the Rococò pavilion known as the Kaffeehaus and the Limonaia, the Lemon House. At the centre of the Rose Garden is the Palazzina del Cavaliere, which houses the Porcelain Museum (see entry). Open daily 8.15am-6.30pm (Apr-May-Sept), 8.15am4.30pm (Jan-Feb-Nov-Dec), 8.15am-9.30pm (Jun-JulAug), 8.15am-5.30pm in March, 8.15am-6.30pm in October. Closed first and last Monday of the month. Closed 1 January, 25 December. Full ticket price: €10 (1 Mar-31 Oct)/€6 (1 Nov-28 Feb). www.uffizi.it. Piazza Pitti, 1. T: 055 23885. Map E6
Museo Nazionale del Bargello This imposing building, built between the 13th and 14th centuries as the seat of the Podestà and the Council of Justice, was a lowly prison between 1574 and 1858 (the “Bargello” was the head of the Grand Duke’s Guards). The Museum conserves a highly important collection of Renaissance sculptures, with masterpieces by Donatello, Luca della Robbia, Verrocchio, Michelangelo, Cellini and Giambologna, and prestigious collections of “lesser arts” (bronzes, 58 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I O C T O B E R 2018
Majolica ware, jewellery, ivories, medals, fabrics and antique weaponry). Open daily 8.15am-1.50pm. From 9 April to 4 November 8.15am-5pm. Closed: 1st, 3rd, 5th Monday and 2nd, 4th Sunday of the month, 1 January, 1 May, 25 December. Museum full ticket price: €9. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali. it/musei/1/bargello. Via del Proconsolo, 4. T: 055 282902. Map G4
Museo Novecento The Museum is housed in the ancient Spedale di San Paolo (13th century), which was later the Scuole Leopoldine (18th century). Dedicated to the Italian art of the 20th century, it offers a selection of around 300 works representing that unrepeatable artistic season that saw Florence at the centre of the international cultural scene. Structured in reverse chronological (from the 1990s to the early 20th century), thematic and interdisciplinary order, the immersive museum itinerary includes multimedia workstations, sound devices and video rooms along with the works themselves. From 1 October to 31 March: open daily (except Thurs) 11am-7pm, Thurs 11am-2pm. From 1 April to 30 September: MonTues-Wed-Sat-Sun 11am-8pm, Thurs 11am-2pm, Fri 11am-11pm. Closed on 25 December. Full ticket price: €8.50. www.museonovecento.it. Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 10. T: 055 286132/055 217158. Map D3
Museo Salvatore Ferragamo This is a museum devoted to the history of the Ferragamo company, to the life of its founder, Salvatore Ferragamo, and to his creations. Every year it organises exhibitions that investigate the relationship between fashion and art. The museum is situated in Palazzo Spini Feroni (1289) – which was purchased by Ferragamo in 1938 to make it the
PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
9.30am-1pm. Closed 1 January, 25 December. Full ticket price € 9. www.museogalileo.it. Piazza dei Giudici, 1. T: 055 265311. Map G5
One of the most fascinating and unusual places in Florence, it is a Neo-Gothic castle built by Frederick Stibbert (1838-1906) with exceptional collections, including weaponry, art objects and everyday items from European, Islamic and Far Eastern civilisations, particularly Japanese, portraits, but also great masterpieces by Botticelli, Crivelli, Bronzino, Suttermans and others. Eclectic taste characterises the sumptuous private apartments and the park, decorated with groves, pavilions, statues, artificial ruins and a small Egyptian temple. Open Mon-TuesWed 10am-2pm; Fri-Sat-Sun 10am-6pm. Full ticket price €8. Visits are run every hour for accompanied,
The bronze statue of St. Luke is one of the 14 statues of the Protectors of the Arts on Florence on display in the external niches of the CHURCH OF ORSANMICHELE. The originals are held inside the museum.
MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS groups of 25 people. www.museostibbert.it. Via Stibbert, 26. T: 055 475520. Off Map
| SIGHTSEEING
Sunday 7 October: free admission to State Museums
Orsanmichele A unique, extraordinary monument, in which civil and religious functions are combined. Built as a granary, in the mid-14th century it was consecrated for Christian worship. On the ground floor the Church houses a grandiose marble tabernacle by Orcagna. The originals of the numerous sculptures (works by famous Florentine artists from the 15th and 16th centuries) that adorned the niches outside on the four sides of the imposing stone cube are conserved in the museum on the first floor. On the second floor you can enjoy a fine panoramic view of Santa Maria del Fiore. Classical music concerts are held here. Church (ground floor): open daily 10am4.50pm. Museum of Sculptures (first and second floor): open Mon (10am-4.50pm) and Sat (10am12.30). Free entry. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali. it/musei/3/orsanmichele. Via dell’Arte della Lana, 1. T: 055 2388606. Map F4 Four centuries of the history of art, architecture and collections in a single building, one of the most beautiful in Florence; built in the mid-15th century by Michelozzo at the wishes of the Medici, it is the prototype of Renaissance civil architecture. Its jewel is the Magi Chapel, which you enter by climbing the elegant seventeenth-century staircase. Open daily 8.30am-7pm. Closed on Wednesdays. Via Cavour, 3. T: 055 2760340. Map F2
Santa Maria del Fiore The monuments of the complex of Santa Maria del Fiore, the symbol in Florence throughout the world, are a single large open-air museum, a unique combination of art, faith and history located in the city’s main square, the religious, historical and artistic centre of Florence. The Duomo (Santa Maria del Fiore), Brunelleschi’s Dome, the Baptistery of Saint John, Giotto’s Bell tower (see all in "Attractions&Monuments"), together with the Crypt of Santa Reparata and the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo (see entry) are all visitable with a single ticket that can be purchased online (full price €18), with prior booking necessary for the Dome. The visiting times of the monuments are different and vary depending on the day. www. ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza del Duomo. T: 055 2302885. Map G2-G3
Villa Bardini and Gardens The most beautiful view of Florence earned it the name “Villa Belvedere”. Today Villa Bardini, a place rich in history, art and culture, has become an exhibition centre, which, along with temporary exhibitions, also hosts the Pietro Annigoni Museum (www.museoannigoni.it), dedicated to the great realist painter, and the Roberto Capucci Museum (www.fondazionerobertocapucci.com, currently being restructured). In addition, there is also a Michelin-starred restaurant inside it, La leggenda dei Frati (see "Dining"), and surrounding it are four hectares of woodland, an Italian-style garden and a kitchen garden and orchard. Open Tues-Sun 10am-7pm. Closed on Mondays. Full ticket price €8. Bardini Gardens: open daily 8.15am-4.30pm (Nov-Feb); 8.15am-5.30pm (Mar); 8.15am-6.30pm (Apr-May, Sept-Oct); 8.15am-7.30pm (Jun-Aug). Closed first and last Monday of the month, 1 January, 1 May, 25 December. Full ticket price €10 (with Boboli Gardens and the Porcelain Museum). www.villabardini.it. Costa San Giorgio, 2 - Via dei Bardi, 1/r. T: 055 20066233. Map G6-G7
PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
Palazzo Medici Riccardi
Botticelli Room, Galleria degli Uffizi
Every first Sunday of the month, more than 450 museums and archaeological sites across Italy open their doors to the public free of charge. Florence, like many other cities in the country, has joined this initiative promoted by the Ministry of Cultural Heritage by offering free admission to the museums listed below on Sunday 7 October. GALLERIE DEGLI UFFIZI www.uffizi.it • Gli Uffizi piazzale degli Uffizi, 6 • Gabinetto dei Disegni e delle Stampe via della Ninna, 5 • Palazzo Pitti Museums Porcelain Museum, Tesoro dei Granduchi Giardino di Boboli, Galleria Palatina and Royal Apartments, Museo della Moda e del Costume, Galleria d’Arte Moderna piazza Pitti, 1 MUSEI DEL BARGELLO www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it • Museo delle Cappelle Medicee piazza di Madonna degli Aldobrandini, 6 • Museo Nazionale del Bargello via del Proconsolo, 4
• Museo di Casa Martelli via Ferdinando Zannetti, 8 • Museo di Palazzo Davanzati via Porta Rossa, 13 • Museo di Orsanmichele via Arte della Lana, 1 • Cenacolo di Andrea del Sarto a San Salvi www.polomusealetoscana.beniculturali.it via di San Salvi, 16 • Galleria dell’Accademia di Firenze www.galleriaaccademiafirenze.beniculturali.it via Ricasoli, 58-60 • Giardino della Villa di Castello www.polomusealetoscana.beniculturali.it via di Castello, 44 • MAF-Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Firenze museoarcheologiconazionaledifirenze. wordpress.com piazza S.S. Annunziata, 9 • Parco di Villa Il Ventaglio www.polomusealetoscana.beniculturali.it via Giovanni Aldini, 10/12. • Villa Medicea della Petraia www.polomusealetoscana.beniculturali.it via della Petraia, 40. • Villa Medicea di Cerreto Guidi and Museo Storico della Caccia e del Territorio www.polomusealetoscana.beniculturali.it via Ponti Medicei, 7 - Cerreto Guidi
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PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
ESSENTIALS
The museum city Within its historic centre (declared a “UNESCO world heritage site” en bloc) Florence contains a unique concentration of historical and artistic attractions. Here is some guidance for you to enjoy it.
F
lorence’s labyrinthine plan, made up of alleyways and sidestreets, derives from its medieval origins. Yet the city’s period of maximum splendour was undoubtedly the Renaissance, of which countless masterpieces remain. With less than four hundred thousand inhabitants and covering an area of little more than a hundred square kilometres, Florence is practically impossible to tour by car, and in fact the centre is to a large extent prohibited to vehicle traffic. We suggest, if possible, that you tour it on foot, to best enjoy its beauties, but you can also count on quite an efficient public transport network (which, however, is severely limited during the nighttime hours, so take care after midnight). Taxis and bikes can reach all the strategic points, whereas private cars are usually 60 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I O C T O B E R 2018
only allowed into the centre to load and unload your luggage at your hotel (but always ask your concierge, also so you can receive indications of where the car parks are located in the centre). To find your way around the city, it is a good idea to keep well in mind that Florence is developed along the two banks of the River Arno. All the roads that run alongside the river, on both sides, are called “Lungarno” and it is only the second part of the name that changes. Lungarno degli Archibugieri, for example, is right in the centre: it is there that the Vasari Corridor passes and the Uffizi looks out over it. The whole area on the other side of the river, to the south, is called “Oltrarno” by the Florentines. It was originally outside the historic centre, but today it contains important attractions, such as Pitti Palace, the
Boboli Gardens and Borgo Santo Spirito, the city’s most bohemian neighbourhood. For decades the Florentine naming system has had a peculiarity that is gradually disappearing, but some traces of it can still be found: the civic numbers, in fact, were divided between “black”, which denoted he residences, and “red”, for businesses. Some red numbers still remain, so bear that in mind. Finally, some suggestion for improving your visit. The Tuscan regional capital is one of the cities with the highest tourist density on the entire planet: wherever you wish to visit, book in advance (or have them book for you at your hotel). You should also bear in mind that the serious overcrowding takes place around mid-morning, so if you are an early bird then that could give you a significant advantage. (E.B.)
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE
Emergency
UNIQUE | FAST TRAINS NETWORK FROM FLORENCE
AMBULANCE – T: 118 POLICE – T: 055 3285 FIRE SERVICE – T: 115 PASSPORTS Questura di Firenze, Via Zara, 2.
T: 055 49771.
Taxi TAXI FIRENZE 4242.IT T: 055 4242 - www.4242.it TAXI FIRENZE 4390 T: 055 4390 - www.4390.it
www.apptaxi.it/firenze: available for iOS and Android, it has more than 4045 licensed taxi drivers. Fixed taxi fares to airports From Amerigo Vespucci Airport to Florence (city centre): €22 (plus baggage supplements and extra fee for night or holiday travel). From Florence (city centre) to Pisa: €140 / Bologna: €180 / Rome Fiumicino: €550 / Milan Linate: €550 / Milan Malpensa: €650
Trains The most important railway station is Santa Maria Novella (SMN), in the central Piazza della Stazione, and regional, interregional, high-speed and international trains arrive at and depart from there. Florence offers fast-track access to major cities across Italy thanks to its high-speed trains: • Bologna: 35 min • Rome: 1 hour 20 min • Milan: 1 h 40 min • Venice: 2 hours 5 min • Naples: 2 hours 52 min • Turin: 2 hours 55 min TRENITALIA Railway Company - Info T: 892021. www.
trenitalia.com. ITALO - Info T: 060708. Italo Assistance T: 892020.
www.italotreno.it.
Airports AEROPORTO DI FIRENZE PERETOLA “AMERIGO VESPUCCI” (FLR) - (4 km from the centre of Florence). The airport, to the North-West of Florence, lies between the “Firenze Nord” exit from the freeway and Florence’s industrial area near Prato. Call centre T: 055 30615. www.aeroporto.firenze.it • Connections to the airport VolaInBus Shuttle Service (www.fsbusitalia.it) from S.M. Novella Station (Piazza della Stazione). Every 30 min, travel time approx. 30’ (5am-8pm) and approx. 1 h (10pm-midnight). Tickets can be purchased on board, at the BusItalia-Sita Nord ticket office near the S.M. Novella Station (Via S. Caterina da Siena) or at ATAF ticket offices (www. ataf.net). One-way ticket: €6 - round trip ticket: €10. AEROPORTO DI PISA “GALILEO GALILEI” (PSA) - (80 km from the centre of Florence). Call centre T: 050 849300. www.pisa-airport.com • Connections to Florence-S.M. Novella Station and Aeroporto di Firenze Peretola Shuttle Services: 1) Terravision – One-way ticket: €4.99 - round trip ticket: €9.98. Every 30 or 60 min, travel time approx. 70’ (9am-midnight) and approx. 1 h (10pm-midnight). www.terravision.eu 2) Autostradale – T: 02 30089000. One-way ticket: €7.50 - round trip ticket: €13.50. Every 30 or 60 min, travel time approx. 70’ (9am-midnight) and approx. 1 h (10pm-midnight). www.autostradale.it
Getting around Florence ATAF - Azienda Trasporti dell’area Fiorentina/ Local Public Transport Company - www.ataf.net Infoline daily 6am-9pm. Green Line T: 800 424500; from mobile: T: 199 104245. ATAF Point-Customer Care Railway Station Firenze S.M. Novella – Offices no. 8 and no. 9. Open Mon-Sat 6.45am-8pm. Lost and Found on ATAF vehicles: Mon-Wed-Fri 9am12.30pm; Tues-Thurs 2.30pm-4pm. Via Veracini, 5 (int. 5). T: 055 334802. Purchase your ticket before you get on the bus or the tram: the ticket must be validated using the machines on the bus. Ordinary ticket (€1.20) valid for 90 minutes. Can be used on buses, trams or trains. Ticket 2x90’ (€2.40). Ticket 4x90’ (€4.70). 90 minutes onboard ticket (€2, no change given). Daily ticket: 24-hour ticket (€5). 3-day ticket (€12). 7-day ticket (€18). Daily Family: one-day ticket for one family of 4 (€6). Nottetempo Ticket: one-day ticket from 10pm to 3am (€4, by phoning T: 055 5650555). The T1 Tram connects S.M. Novella Station in Florence to Scandicci (www.gestramvia.com) Electric buses move around the historic centre and also reach the pedestrian areas. There are four lines: C1-C2-C3-D. WHERE TIP Route C1 is convenient for visiting the most important museums in Florence. The entire historic centre of Florence (which is approximately the part located within the 19th-
century ring-roads or viali, which is a protected UNESCO heritage site) is a “Zona a Traffico Limitato” (ZTL), or restricted traffic zone. Bicycles, electric vehicles, motorcycles and scooters are allowed to enter.
Tourist Information INFOPOINT FIRENZE TURISMO www.firenzeturismo.it 1. Train Station Infopoint > Piazza della Stazione, 4. T: 055 212245. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7pm; Sun and holidays 9am-2pm. Multilingual tourist information and sales point for Firenzecard. 2. Tourist Information Office > Via C. Cavour, 1/R. T: 055 290832. Open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm. Free brochures and complaints service. Sales point for Firenzecard. 3. Bigallo Infopoint > Piazza San Giovanni, 1. T: 055 288496. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7pm; Sun and holidays 9am-2pm. Quick information service. 4. Airport Infopoint > Piazza San Giovanni, 1. T: 055 315874. Open daily 9am-7pm. TOURIST CONTACT CENTRE – T: 055 000 Info about services for tourists, exhibitions, events, opening times of museums, how to move around the city. Available daily 9am-7pm in Italian, English, French, German and Spanish. Via email (touristinfo@comune.fi.it) you can ask for information in any language, including Portuguese, Chinese, Japanese, Russian and Arabic (answers within 24 hours). w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 61
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Museo dell'Opera di Santa Maria del Fiore
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5 STAR Belmond Villa San Michele – Via Doccia, 4 (Fiesole) • Off Map Four Seasons Hotel Firenze – Borgo Pinti, 99 • L1 Golden Tower Hotel & Spa – Piazza degli Strozzi, 11/r • Map E4 Helvetia & Bristol Firenze – Via dei Pescioni, 2 • Map E3 Hotel Regency Firenze – Piazza M. D’Azeglio, 3 • Map L1 Hotel Savoy – Piazza della Repubblica, 7 • Map F3 Il Salviatino – Via del Salviatino, 21 (Fiesole) • Off Map Lungarno – Borgo San Jacopo, 14 • Map F5 Montebello Splendid – Via G. Garibaldi, 14 • Map B1 NH Collection Firenze Porta Rossa – Via Porta Rossa, 19 • Map E4 Palazzo Vecchietti – Via degli Strozzi, 4 • Map E3 Portrait Firenze – Lungarno degli Acciaiuoli, 4 • Map F4 Relais Santa Croce – Via Ghibellina , 87 • Map H4 Sina Villa Medici – Via Il Prato, 42 • Map B1 The St. Regis Florence – Piazza Ognissanti, 1 • Map C31 The Westin Excelsior, Florence – Piazza Ognissanti, 3 • Map C3 Villa Cora – Viale Machiavelli, 18 • Off Map Villa La Vedetta – Viale Michelangiolo, 78 • Off Map Ville sull’Arno – Lungarno Cristoforo Colombo, 1/3/5 • Off Map Villa Tolomei Hotel & Resort – Via di Santa Maria a Marignolle, 10 • Off Map 4 STAR AC Hotel Firenze – Via L. Bausi, 5 • Off Map Adler Cavalieri – Via della Scala, 40 • Map C1
Albani Firenze – Via Calzaiuoli, 6 • Map F3 Continentale – Vicolo dell’Oro, 6/r • Map F4 Dei Cavalieri Relais Monna Lisa – Borgo Pinti, 27 • Map H2 Executive Firenze – Via Curtatone, 5 • Map B2 FH55 Calzaiuoli – Via Calzaiuoli, 6 • F3 Gallery Hotel Art – Vicolo dell’Oro, 5 • Map F4 Ginori al Duomo – Via de’ Ginori, 22/24/26 • Map F1 Glance Hotel In Florence – Via Nazionale, 23 • Map E1 Grand Hotel Adriatico – Via Maso Finiguerra, 9 • Map C2 Grand Hotel Mediterraneo – Lungarno del Tempio, 44 • Off Map Grand Hotel Minerva (S) – Piazza di Santa Maria Novella, 16 • Off Map Horto Convento Firenze – Viale L. Ariosto, 13 • Map B4 Hotel Cellai – Via 27 Aprile 14, 52/r • Off Map Hotel Degli Orafi – Lungarno degli Archibusieri, 4 • F5 Hotel Londra – Via Jacopo da Diacceto 16/20 • Map C1 J & J – Via di Mezzo, 20 • I3 Kraft – Via Solferino, 2 • B2 L’Orologio – Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 24 • Map E2 Mercure Firenze Centro – Via Nazionale, 21-23/r • Map E1 NH Anglo American – Via G. Garibaldi, 9 • Map B2 NH Firenze – Piazza V. Veneto, 4 • Map A1 NilHotel – Via E. Barsanti, 27 • Off Map Novotel Firenze Airport – Via Tevere, 23 (Sesto Fiorentino) • Off Map Palazzo Gaddi (S) – Via del Giglio, 11 • Map E2 Palazzo Ognissanti Hotel – Via Maso Finiguerra, 12/r • Map C2
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Palazzo dal Borgo – Via Della Scala, 6 • Map D2 Pierre – Via de’ Lamberti, 5 • Map F4 Pontevecchio Suites & SPA – Via De’ Belfredelli, 9 • Map E5 Rapallo – Via Santa Caterina d’Alessandria, 7 • Off Map Roma –Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 8 • Map E3 San Firenze Suites e SPA – Piazza di S. Firenze, 3 • Map G4 San Gallo Palace – Via Lorenzo Il Magnifico, 2 • Off Map Santa Maria Novella – Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 1 • Map E2 LUXURY HISTORIC ACCOMMODATIONS Antica Torre Tornabuoni – Via de’ Tornabuoni, 1 • Map E4 Be One Art and Luxury Home – Via dei Brunelleschi, 1 • Map F3 Palazzo Niccolini al Duomo– Via De’ Servi, 2 • Map G2 4-STAR BOUTIQUE HOTELS AdAstra – Via del Campuccio, 53 • C6 Grand Amore Hotel & Spa – Via de’ Servi, 38/a • Map H1 Messori Suites – Via A. Giacomini, 25 • Off Map Palazzo Castri 1874 – Piazza Indipendenza, 7 • Off Map Riva Lofts Florence– Via Baccio Bandinelli, 98 • Off Map Rivoli Boutique Hotel (S) – Via della Scala, 33 • Map D2 SoprArno Suites – Via Maggio, 35 • D5
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