Where Milan n 122 December 2020 by Welcome Smart Network

MILAN CITY GUIDE ®

DECEMBER 2020

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A CHRISTMAS JOURNEY

in Milan All you can do in the city

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the quintessence of the precious gems

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Milan December 2020 8

the guide

LANDMARKS

24 SHOPPING

Pineider historic brand has recently opened its flagship store in the central via Manzoni. 38 DINING

42 ENTERTAINMENT

Where® invites you to a tour discovering the beauties of Lake Como in an electric car.

WINE EXPERIENCE

MILAN CITY GUIDE ®

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in Milan

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All you can do in the city

6 TOP IN TOWN

20 FASHION AND

Discover the city, starting from its main landmark attractions and several not to be missed districts.

DESIGN OUTLETS

Don’t miss a trip to the city’s outlying fashion outlets, just a few kilometres from Milan.

8 LANDMARKS

23 A FEW STEPS

Where® brings you several unmissable sites in a favourite sightseeing tour for visitors from all over the world.

FROM MILAN…

Discover our pick of several destinations for an unmissable out-of-town trip.

12 OPEN-AIR

27 TOP BRANDS

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43 SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS

CONTEMPORARY ART A walk around parks, gardens and public spaces in search of contemporary artworks in Milan.

16 THE URGE FOR ITALIAN BUBBLY

As a starting toast or throught the meal, for special good wishes or as an ever appreciated gift… in December sparkling wines are unmissable. Discover our selection of the best Italian labels.

The best fashion designers in Milan for your high-end shopping.

30 THE WORLD OF ARMANI

In Milan, Giorgio Armani is not simple a fashion brand but rather an integral part of the city life.

Leonardo da Vinci’s Last Supper has become “for everyone” thanks to new multimedia supports. 44 ESSENTIALS

Information and tips to get around the city and to experience the best that Milan has to offer.

» MAP PAGE 46-47 Isola Chinatown & Porta Paolo Sarpi San Siro Nuova

CityLife

Sempione & Castello

Brera

Centrale Buenos Aires Lambrate Porta

Venezia

Fashion Quad Vercelli & San Babila Belfiore Duomo 5 Giornate Sant'Ambrogio 5 Vie Università degli Studi Porta Romana Navigli Tortona Lodi ZZA

A CHRISTMAS JOURNEY

Contents

VIA PORL E

DECEMBER 2020

w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 3 LAK OF

All about the new breakfast and afternoon tea at Giacomo Bistrot, for a tipically Milanese tasting experience.

MILANESE TASTING

VIA

Live your dream and get your experience in a click

Welcome to Italia network promotes the Italian tourist heritage, combining selected contents with high-quality experiences.

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where Milan ®

EDITORIAL WELCOME TO ITALY

M A G A Z I N E

Via Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano. T: +39 02 25063100 info@proedimedia.com www.wheremilan.com

We’ve been here for centuries. We’re waiting for you. Now, we’re ready to show you the most beautiful country in the world.

PUBLISHER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

The recent pandemic has severely affected one

www.wheremilan.com PROEDI MEDIA - WHERE

Andrea Jarach andrea.jarach@proedimedia.com

Recommended by

MANAGING EDITOR

Alessandra Finzi redazione@proedimedia.com

MILANO LOVES YOU

of the linchpins of the global economy – the Andrea Jarach Publisher Where ®

CONTRIBUTORS

Carey Bernitz, Simona P.K. Daviddi, Floriana di Maio, Cornelia G. Hassmüller, Joy Lacanlale, Fabio Lancini, Giulia Minero, Elena Peverata, Chiara Zaccarelli

City Map: © Proedi Comunicazione 2020 Metro Map and Fast Trains Network Map Dmitry Goloub © Proedi Comunicazione 2020, Mario Camerini COO

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centuries. Throughout history, our country has been affected by war,

Every night is followed by a new dawn, and you can already see some signs of this. An analysis of the Internet’s Big Data sets shows that Italy is the first holiday destination in searches by millions of Internet users. Italy’s wealth of natural and cultural treasures is unrivalled. Our country boasts the highest number of UNESCO World Heritage Sites. If Italy were a museum, it would be the largest museum in the world, if it were a restaurant it would be notable for having the world’s most-widely appreciated cuisine, and if Italy were a beach, it would be the best

ADMINISTRATION

Katia Greto amministrazione@proedimedia.com

equipped in the world.

PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION, SALES SUPPORT MANAGER

Mountains, forests and woods, lakes, hills and unique landscapes are

Paola Grilli paola.grilli@proedimedia.com

only some of Italy’s most distinctive features. However, all of this is made even more unique by its people. For millennia, the peninsula was

HOTEL RELATIONS MANAGER

Marta Mailhac marta.mailhac@proedimedia.com

a destination for migrants, and people, from all corners of the earth, settled here bringing with them the different cultures that resulted in

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Cristina Garbini cristina.garbini@proedimedia.com

the creation of Italy.

REG. TRIB. MILANO No. 453, 19 JULY 2010 EDITORE: PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL - ISCRIZIONE AL ROC N. 2455 DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE (BG)

Although the publisher has made every effort to include copyright credits, in the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would like to apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published in the next issue. Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited.

EXCLUSIVE GIFT FROM TOP HOTELS WHERE MILAN È DISTRIBUITO NEI MIGLIORI HOTEL DI MILANO, CON 20.100 CAMERE WHERE MILAN IS AVAILABLE IN MILAN'S MOST EXCLUSIVE HOTELS, FOR THE GUESTS OF THE 20,100 ROOMS AVAILABLE www.wheremilan.com/distribution

Where® magazine and the where® logo are registered trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications.

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP EXECUTIVE CHAIRMAN William S. Morris III PRESIDENT & CEO William S. Morris

editorial could be very depressing, but remember

we’re talking about Italy: a favourite destination of travelers for

once again become the most desirable tourist destination in the world.

CARTOGRAPHY

Morris Visitor Publications

in available revenue at the time of writing this

famine and epidemics, and each time it has risen from the ashes to

ICONOGRAPHY

Archivio Proedi Media, Milano Panoramica, Shutterstock

MVP

tourism industry. The closing of borders and drop

So dear visitor, it is with pride that we have met the enormous challenge of the pandemic, and are now, once again, waiting to show you our Italy. We are here to welcome you with open arms to offer you a unique experience that millions of visitors have enjoyed for centuries. Remember the plague in the Middle Ages was followed by the Renaissance… Where® is here to fulfill its mission of guiding travelers on a voyage to discover Italy, especially during this new Renaissance! The Publisher

>> To check the opening hours of museums, restaurants, stores and outlets stay tuned on www.wheremilan.com

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[ SIGHTSEEING]

Top in Town 15 12

MARCO BRESCIA © TEATRO ALLA SCALA

DUOMO 1 Among one of the most important Gothic buildings in the world, the church constructed over a period of 450 years is the symbol of Milan. To experience the Duomo at its most majestic you must ascend to the roof. Map F4 GALLERIA VITTORIO EMANUELE II 2 Sometimes known as “the living-room of the Milanese”, this elegant, four-storey arcade, housing luxury cafés and famous designer shops, is covered by a glass barrel vault and a beautiful glass cupola. Map F4 CASTELLO SFORZESCO 3 The ancient seat of the ruling Visconti, it was later rebuilt by Francesco Sforza and is now simply known by the Milanese as “Il Castello”. It houses a number of interesting museums 6 W H E R E M I L A N I D E C E M B E R 2020

and libraries. Its park is a favourite with old and young alike. Map E4 CENACOLO VINCIANO 4 One of the most famous attractions in the world, “The Last Supper” by Leonardo da Vinci is a 15th century large mural painting representing the scene of the last supper of Jesus narrated in the Gospel. This fragile masterpiece was painted by Leonardo using a technique that was chemically imperfect and by the early 16th century it has started to flake and decay, resulting in numerous restorations. Map D4 PALAZZO REALE 5 Formerly the residence of all those who governed Milan, from Napoleon to the Royal House of Savoy, the Royal Palace is currently

one of the most important cultural centres in the city, hosting exhibitions of international renown. Near the Duomo, it’s the perfect place to escape the crowds of the Duomo’s square. Map F5 PIAZZA SCALA 6 The perfect location for the Gallerie d’Italia Museum and the opera house Teatro alla Scala. In the center of the square is the monument dedicated to Leonardo da Vinci. Map F4 MONTENAPOLEONE DISTRICT 7 Milan is known as one of the shopping capitals of the world and via Montenapoleone, together with the Golden Quad, is entirely given over to luxury shopping. Here the most important fashion designers offer their creations. Map F4-G4

SEE MAP PAGE 58

BRERA DISTRICT 8 This is an artsy neighbourhood which really comes to life at night. The Pinacoteca di Brera is one of the most important museums in Milan. Its permanent collections offer a wealth of exceptionally good Italian and foreign masterpieces. Map F3 AMBROSIANA 9 The Picture Gallery contains several exquisite works of art from the 15th through 17th centuries. The Biblioteca Federiciana has on show Leonardo’s Codex Atlanticus. the Pinacoteca is exhibiting the preparatory Cartoon for The ‘School of Athens’, one of the best-known paintings by Raphael. Map F5 NAVIGLI 10 The Navigli are artificial canals built 800 years

ago to ferry people and merchandise to Milan. This network was perfected in 1457 by Leonardo da Vinci. Today, the area is bursting with trendy dining and nightlife spots. Map E6 SAN SIRO STADIUM 11 With a capacity of 80,000 seats, it is the largest stadium in Italy and the 4th in Europe. Off Map SANT’AMBROGIO 12 One of the most ancient churches in Milan, it was built in 379-386 A.D., in an area where martyrs had been buried. Map E5 PORTA NUOVA DISTRICT 13 A vibrant, futuristic district overlooking two neighbourhoods: the Garibaldi and Isola

districts. The heart of the area is the large raised square dedicated to architect and designer Gae Aulenti. Just a little further on you will encounter the Bosco Verticale with the new Biblioteca degli Alberi. Map S2 TRIENNALE MILANO 14 Since 1923 this is an international institution which organises exhibitions and events about arts, designs, architecture, fashion, cinema, photography and theatre. Map D3 CIMITERO MONUMENTALE 15 A real outdoor museum catering, on the one hand to the whims of the elite of Milan’s society, and on the other to works of art by famous sculptors of various eras. Map E1 w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 7

LANDMARK | PANORAMIC VIEW

THE DUOMO'S TERRACES OVERLOOKING THE CITY

8 W H E R E M I L A N I D E C E M B E R 2020

− After crossing the threshold of its 18th century façade in Candoglia marble, the interior of the Cathedral is revealed in all its majesty. One of the most important Gothic buildings in the world, the church, constructed over a period of 450 years (begun 1386), is the symbol of Milan. Built in the shape of a Latin cross, the cathedral is divided by soaring pillars into five naves, the largest of which measures 45 metres in height. Its inside columns measure 3 and a half metres in diameter. The interior boasts an apse with a large rose − window, stained glass windows decorated with episodes from the Bible, chapels and high marble columns with capitals featuring statues of saints. To experience the Duomo at its most majestic − you must ascend to the roof (either by elevator or by steps) where you will be surrounded by an outburst of pinnacles, turrets and marble statuary and, naturally, the city’s famed golden “Madonnina”. Here you can wander among 135 spires and 3,400 statues. Guided tours for small groups help visitors − learn about the secrets behind the Duomo’s construction. The tour starts from the back of the choir which leads to the Crypt housing the tomb of San Carlo Borromeo, and then moves on to the Archaeological Area where you’ll find the remains of the Battistero di San Giovanni alle Fonti, dating back to 397 A.D. This is where Sant’Ambrogio christened St. Augustine. Next is the old Basilica of Santa Tecla (4th century). Before accessing the Cathedral and its treasures, − visit the nearby Museo del Duomo, located inside Palazzo Reale. The museum houses more than 150 masterpieces from the 15th century to the present time, including statues, architectural models, plaster casts, terracottas and paintings. If you’re on a tight schedule but want to learn − more about the secrets of the Duomo, you can take advantage of the new Duomo Milano App for smartphones, featuring images and content in 9 languages including Italian, English, French, German, Spanish, Russian, Chinese, Japanese and Portuguese. www.duomomilano.it

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LANDMARK | LEONARDO

CASTELLO SFORZESCO THE FORTRESS OF MILAN

−

The Sforza Castle is the place where Leonardo da Vinci spent his golden years as an artist. As you explore its magnificent fifteenth-century rooms, you’ll note that his genius remains very much alive here. It was here that he portrayed figures from − the court in works such as the Portrait of a Musician, Lady with an Ermine and La Belle Ferronière; he frescoed the magical Sala delle Asse, organized banquets and performances, designed extensions to the Castle (which were never built), presented inventions worthy of his genius and took part in who

10 W H E R E M I L A N I D E C E M B E R 2020

knows how many conversations on art, mathematics, and nature.

completely demolished on more than one occasion.

Construction of this imposing, militaryFortunately, at the end of the 19th − − like, square building which measures some century, thanks to the architect Luca 200 meters on each side began in 1450. The Castle features a moat, three courtyards and four imposing towers at the corners. Unfortunately, following the fall − of the Sforza duchy at the end of the 15th century, the Castle fell into decline under the foreign rulers of the city, who turned it into nothing more than common military barracks. It even risked being

Beltrami, the Sforza Castle was completely restored to its former glory, with the renovation of the surviving parts and the reconstruction of those missing, so visitors today can explore a magnificent complex replete with art, history and culture. You can visit the museum which is − organized into several different sections, or simply enjoy a stroll through the courtyards

of the large gardens behind the castle. If you have time to spare, we suggest a walk along the battlements that run the length of the walls, offering a wealth of marvelous views. The finest art collections belonging to − the City of Milan are on display here in the Castle, where you can admire a splendid array of furnishings, musical instruments, tapestries, ceramics, ancient weapons, coins, and above all, paintings and sculptures, including the world-famous Rondanini Pietà by Michelangelo.

One of the most delightful spaces in the − museum is the Ducal Court, home to the dukes of the Sforza family since 1466. Especially impressive features of the Court include the loggia, the Elephant Portico, the Ducal Chapel and, above all, the marvelous frescoes painted in the Sala delle Asse, the most thrilling of the historical settings in the Castle. Leonardo da Vinci executed the frescoes − in the Sala delle Asse by order of Ludovico il Moro, transforming the room to appear like a pergola. He painted sixteen mulberry trees intertwined with knotted ropes, celebratory

plaques and coats of arms of the Sforza family. Traces of the artist’s drawings of roots burrowing into the rocks are still visible on one of the walls. Lastly, among the ancient manuscripts − of the Trivulziana Library, you’ll have the chance to admire the Codex Trivulzianus, a priceless notebook featuring notes and drawings by Leonardo. >> Castello Sforzesco. Piazza Castello. www.milanocastello.it BY STEFANO ZUFFI (Ar t His torian)

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WHERE NOW | WHAT TO DO

Open-air Contemporary Art

12 W H E R E M I L A N I D E C E M B E R 2020

Triennale Milano PH © GIANLUCA DI IOIA

Not just museums and art galleries! This season in Milan offers the ideal opportunity to discover a concept of culture that is somewhat outside the box. A walk around parks, gardens and public spaces in search of contemporary artworks in the open air is a valid - and no less fascinating - alternative for those who don’t have time for a visit to the traditional places of culture. BY GIULIA MINERO w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 13

WHERE NOW | WHAT TO DO

n a city as cosmopolitan and open to innovation as Milan, it is no surprise that art finds a place even in unconventional locations, in dialogue with nature and urban architectures, blending in with them. Thanks to the Ministry for Cultural Heritage and Activities and Tourism, which has carried out an official mapping of public art in Italy, now those who love spending a pleasant time outside and who don’t have time on their side can find the visiting experience to suit them, to discover the sites of contemporary art in Milan.

“Needle, Thread and Knot” PIAZZA CADORNA

Places that are at a distance from each other, such as the fountain and the square of Cadorna Station, are joined together virtually by a yellow, red and green needle and knotted thread, a metaphor for the lines of the Milanese underground, which connected up the city as early as the 1990s. This is the meaning of the imposing work by Claes Oldenburg and Coosje van Bruggen that is visible outside Cadorna railway station. PH © MICHELANGELOOP/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

‘Egg’

PIAZZA GAE AULENTI A glass ogival structure designed by Alberto Garutti at the foot of the UniCredit Tower reveals 23 chromed brass tubes, which, almost like long trumpets, create communication - also in sound terms - between different storeys of the building that are apparently distant and without any relationship with each other.

Piazza Gae Aulenti

14 W H E R E M I L A N I D E C E M B E R 2020

PH © DIZFOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Piazza Affari

PH © BALAZSSEBOK/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Piazza Cadorna

PIAZZA AFFARI The name of this large statue outside the Milan Stock Exchange is the acronym for “libertà, odio, vendetta, eternità” (i.e.freedom, hatred, revenge, eternity), but the real meaning of the middle finger of sculptor Maurizio Cattelan is intentionally ambiguous. A provocation? You be the judge of that!

Graffiti

Graffiti are among the undisputed protagonists of Milanese contemporary art. All areas of the city, particularly those around the San Siro Racecourse, are dotted with masterpieces by the exponents of local street art. Look out for them; they deserve much more than a photo.

Bagni Misteriosi

GARDENS OF THE TRIENNALE Two swimmers, a swan, a platform, a cabin and a fountain stand out, immersed in a small swimming pool, in the heart of the park around the Triennale Milano. The work, created by Giorgio de Chirico, refers to the artist’s childhood in Greece.

La Mela Reintegrata CENTRAL STATION

Heading towards the square outside the Central Station, why not stop for a while

Piazza Meda

to look at the large white apple made of marble powder and metal in the middle of it. It’s “La Mela Reintegrata” by Michelangelo Pistoletto, a curious allegory of a future in which science and technology finally blend with nature.

permanent open-air museum immersed in a marvellous natural setting stretches out for more than a kilometre, with sculptures by contemporary artists of international renown; it is known as the “Park of Art”. >> Discover more on luoghidelcontemporaneo.beniculturali.it

‘Grande Disco’, PIAZZA MEDA

The distinctive style of Arnaldo Pomodoro is immediately recognisable in the large bronze work a few yards from the Quadrilateral of Fashion. “Grande Disco” (Large Disk) is an abstract representation of man, previously inscribed in a circle by Leonardo da Vinci.

‘Il grande Toscano’ PIAZZA DEL CARMINE

In the heart of Brera, contemporary art is in dialogue with that of the past in the large bronze statue of classical inspiration designed by Igor Mitoraj. The church of the Carmine in the background with the bust of the Great Tuscan in front of it is an image with a powerful visual impact.

Parco dell’Arte IDROSCALO

Just a few minutes from the city, the Idroscalo is a great idea for a trip into nature. Along the banks of the reservoir for swimming, a

PH © DELBO ANDREA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

‘L.O.V.E.’

Stazione Centrale PH © STANISLAVA KARAGYOZOVA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Piazza del Carmine

PH © JOLANTA WOJCICKA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

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WHERE NOW | WINE EXPERIENCE

The urge for Italian bubbly Every year in the month of December we feel the urge for bubbly, to be used in its many versions: as a starting toast, to combine with an hors d’œuvre, throughout the meal or to accompany a dessert, but also for a little pampering after a lengthy dinner, for special good wishes or simply as an ever appreciated gift. BY CORNELIA G. HASSMÜLLER

16 W H E R E M I L A N I D E C E M B E R 2020

CORNELIA G. HASSMÜLLER Certified Wine Expert and Owner of Milano Wine Affair. Board member of FISAR Milan Delegation. Of German origin, but Milanese by adoption for many years now. With a passion for wine in her blood, she has found her vocation in Italy. Thanks to her activities, Milano Wine Affair is spreading the culture of wine, approaching both companies and visitors to Milan, creating multisensory experiences in the form of wine-tasting, events, seminars, teambuilding, entertainment and travel.

he range of Italian sparkling wines is vast and the labels are differentiated not only by the methods of production, but also by their residual sugar content. The starting point is a base wine (we refer to alcoholic fermentation when the must, thanks to yeasts and sugars, is transformed into alcohol and carbon dioxide) that becomes effervescent wine after a second fermentation. The “refermentation” can take place in two ways: >> Classic Method (in the bottle). Also used for the production of Champagne and other great sparkling wines in Italy and worldwide, it usually requires between 15 and 30 months (but the highest quality spumantes may reach as much as 120 months). These are high quality products, in which the notes are more complex and depend very much on the duration of the contact of the yeasts with the wine. The notes range from bread crust to custard, from white flowers to mature fruit. Mineral sensations are often also perceived, some referable to chalk. Some examples: Franciacorta DOCG, Trento DOC, Oltrepò-Pavese Metodo Classico DOCG, Alta Langa DOCG, Erbaluce DOCG, Gavi DOCG, Lissini Durello DOC, Verdicchio DOC and many others.

Monsupello

>> Charmat or Martinotti Method (in stainless steel tanks called autoclaves). At the end of fermentation, which takes place rapidly, between 30 days and 6 months, the sparkling wine is ready to be consumed. This method makes it possible to keep the primary aromas of the wine unchanged, and is much quicker (which also means more economical). The perfumes are to be sought in the notes of fresh fruit, apple and pear, white flowers, and recently gathered grapes. Some examples: Conegliano Valdobbiadene DOCG, Prosecco DOCG and DOC, Asti Spumante DOCG, Brachetto d’Acqui DOCG, Lambrusco DOP and many others.

GLOSSARY OF THE CLASSIC METHOD • Blanc de Blancs: sparkling wines only produced with white grapes. • Blanc de Noirs: sparkling wines only produced with black grapes. • Rosé: produced with black grapes or with white grapes and black grapes. • Satén: a word only used in the Franciacorta region to define Classic Method Brut Sparkling Wines, Blanc de Blancs, produced with a reduced pressure of 5 bars (the resulting sparkling wine is creamier and softer). • Millesimati: sparkling wines produced with grapes from a single vintage (and this must be indicated on the label); these are almost always of a higher quality than average. • Riserva: sparkling wines that are aged on the lees for a period of at least 3 years. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 17

WHERE NOW | WINE EXPERIENCE

PH © STEFANO CAFFARRI

PH © JENNIFER PALLIAN

The combinations at table

Cantina della Volta

To have a perfect combination with the food served at table, it is always necessary to take the sequence of dishes into consideration in relation to the body of the sparkling wine, and to know the production method, the grape variety, the duration of the aging on the lees and the residual sugar, because the aromatic complexity, the depth of taste and the persistence change on the basis of these values. Below are some suggestions regarding combinations with food, which should always be evaluated based on the texture and ingredients of the dish. FOR APERITIFS AND FINGER FOOD The best sparkling wines to accompany an aperitif are young, soft, light and aromatic ones with low alcohol levels coming from white wine varieties. For example: Asti Extra Dry White Moscato or Valdobbiadene Extra Dry. WITH STARTERS Fish hors d’œuvres such as seafood, crudité and sushi are perfect with an elegant, delicate and soft sparkling wine, ideally Blanc de Blancs; the proposal here is a Franciacorta Satèn. 18 W H E R E M I L A N I D E C E M B E R 2020

Hors d’œuvres of cured meats, also fullflavoured ones, and rich preparations of vegetables require a combination with persistence and more structure, so a Lambrusco di Sorbara Brut Rosé. WITH FIRST COURSES It is necessary to differentiate between simple or fish-based pastas, risottos with vegetables (without too much seasoning) or filled pastas and those with more full-bodied sauces. In the former case, better to opt for a Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superior di Cartizze Brut; in the latter, an Oltrepò-Pavese Pinot Nero Metodo Classico Pas Dosé. WITH MAIN COURSES As a combination with menus of main course fish, white or red meat, roasts, meat on the skewer, more structured and complex sparkling wines are needed, such as Millesimati and Reserves, also Rosé. So we suggest Trento Riserva Dosaggio Zero or Franciacorta Dosaggio Zero Rosé. WITH DESSERTS Here it is necessary to apply the rule of the combination “by matching”, in other words,

Acquesi

the sugar content of the sparkling wine has to be proportionate to that of the dessert. So make way for Dry, Demi-Sec and Sweet sparkling wines. With Dry, dry pastries are perfect; fruit tarts or in any case desserts that are not too sweet go with Demi-Sec; Sweet accompanies leavened cakes. Two suggestions to combine with the classic Milanese Panettone and Veronese Pandoro? With the former, a Moscato d’Asti and with the latter a Fior D’Arancio Colli Euganei Spumante Dolce.

Do you like this subject? If you’re in Milan, would you like to get to know Italian wine better, having fun at the same time? Cornelia G. Hassmüller organises wine-tastings, wine games and tours in the surrounding area. Info and contacts: mwa@milanowineaffair.com – www.milanowineaffair.com

WHERE® TIPS APERITIF & FINGER FOOD Acquesi - Asti Extra Dry (Asti DOCG) Grapes: Moscato bianco, 11% ABV www.acquesi.it Ruggeri Giustino B. Extra Dry Millesimato 2019 (Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG) Grapes: Glera, 11.5% ABV www.ruggeri.com

WITH STARTERS Mosnel – Satèn (Franciacorta DOCG) Grapes: Chardonnay, 12% ABV, min. 36 months on the lees www.mosnel.com

Mosnel

Cantina della Volta - Lambrusco Brut Rosé Metodo Classico (Lambrusco DOC) Grapes: Lambrusco di Sorbara, 12.5% ABV www.cantinadellavolta.it

WITH FIRST COURSES Villa Sandi - La Rivetta Brut (Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore di Cartizze DOCG) Grapes: Glera, 11.5% ABV www.villasandi.it

WITH MAIN COURSES

PH © MATTIA PAGANI

Monsupello – Monsupello Nature (Metodo Classico Pas Dosé VSQ) Grapes: Pinot Nero 90%, Chardonnay 10%, 13% ABV, min. 28 months on the lees www.monsupello.it Ronco Calino

Maso Martis – DosaggioZero Riserva Millesimato (Trento DOC) Grapes: Pinot Nero 70%, Chardonnay 30%, 12.5% ABV, min. 36 months on the lees www.masomartis.it Ronco Calino – Millesimato 2012 (Franciacorta DOCG) Grapes: Chardonnay 60%, Pinot Nero 40%, 12.5% ABV, min. 60 months on the lees www.roncocalino.it

WITH DESSERTS Ca’d’Gal - Lumine (Moscato d’Asti DOCG) Grapes: Moscato Bianco, 5% ABV www.cadgal.it Maeli - Moscato Giallo Spumante Dolce 2018 (Fior d’Arancio Colli Euganei DOCG) Grapes: Moscato Giallo, 6% ABV www.maeliwine.com w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 19

[ D A I LY T O U R S ]

Fashion and design outlets LUGANO MENDRISIO

Just a few kilometres from Milan, the nec plus ultra for the fashion addicted are the city’s outlying fashion outlets. Don’t miss a trip to these shopping destinations!

Vicolungo The Style Outlets

FoxTown

BERGAMO BRESCIA ?

Torino Outlet Village

VENEZIA

Mantova PIACENZA Serravalle Outlet Village Designer Outlet

FERRARA

Mondovicino Outlet Village

Designer Outlet

? ALESSANDRIA

GENOVA The Mall Sanremo

Fidenza Village

MAR LIGURE

MAR ADRIATICO

Castel Guelfo BOLOGNA ? The Style Outlets

PISA

VENTIMIGLIA

? TRIESTE ? Noventa di Piave

VERONA

Franciacorta Village

MILANO Scalo Milano Outlet & More

TORINO?

Palmanova Outlet Village

? Factory Stores

Barberino RIMINI ? Designer Outlet

FIRENZE The Mall Firenze

LIVORNO

Valdichiana Village

ANCONA

PERUGIA

FIDENZA VILLAGE One of the 11 Villages of “The Bicester Village Shopping Collection” by Value Retail in Europe and China, the Village offers its guests a complete ‘360-degree’ experience and a new concept in shopping and hospitality, combining the finest expressions of fashion and luxury, entertainment and tourism. • WHERE: in the heart of the Food Valley and the Land of Verdi, just 60 minutes from Milan. Daily shuttle service from Milan city centre (pick up point from Piazza della Repubblica).

• WHAT: guests can find a selection of Italian

FOXTOWN FACTORY STORES and international brands at prices reduced A haven of luxury and elegance where by up to 70% off the recommended retail 160 stores offer the very best fashion PESCARA CORSICA price – seven days a week, all year round. labels discounted from 30% to More than 120 boutiques: Missoni, Jil Sander, 70% all year round. Le Silla, New Balance, P.A.R.O.S.H., Sergio • WHERE: in Switzerland (on the Swiss border), ROMA Rossi, The Bridge, Vivienne Westwood just 20 km from Lugano and 50 km from and many more. Milan. Take the Milano-Lugano motorway • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: the Village’s selectionMAR andTIRRENO exit at Mendrisio. Daily shuttle service of restaurants offers local products based is available from Milan. on Italian DOC-classified ingredients of the • WHAT: 160 exclusive stores, more than NAPOLI highest quality, prepared as seasonal dishes 250 top brands (including Armani, Burberry, or tasty snacks for a relaxing break. Dolce&Gabbana, Coach, Gucci, Guess, www.fidenzavillage.com Jimmy Choo, Michael Kors, Montblanc, Nike, SARDEGNA

Fidenza Village 20 W H E R E M I L A N I D E C E M B E R 2020

FoxTown Factory Stores

How to get there with the Shuttle bus

Polo Ralph Lauren, Prada and Valentino and many more), 1 casino, 7 bars and restaurants, an exchange office, free wi-fi, a touristic info point and various Tax Free refund points. • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: exclusive services make FoxTown the perfect place for those seeking a luxury shopping experience in a unique environment.

SCALO MILANO OUTLET & MORE Established in 2016, Scalo Milano Outlet & More is a metropolitan outlet village (31,000 sq.m.) located just 15 minutes from downtown Milan. • WHERE: located in Locate Triulzi (via Milano, 5), it can be accessed via a daily shuttle bus from downtown Milan (Piazza della Repubblica, 3 corner of via Turati) and straight to Scalo Milano in a few minutes. • WHAT: it hosts 150 fashion and design brands, including Cavalli Class, Twinset, Fratelli Rossetti, A. Testoni, Puma, a Ferrari store and 15 showrooms of leading interior décor and home furnishing brands (Alessi, Kartell, Calligaris...) and

SCALO MILANO OUTLET & MORE

A complimentary daily Shopping Express® service runs from the centre of Milan to Fidenza Village.

A shuttle service runs from the centre of Milan to Scalo Milano with 3 daily departures. Bookable everyday at scalomilano.it

>> Departure from Piazza della Repubblica fidenzavillage.com/booking FREE PROMOCODE: WHERE

>> Departure from Piazza della Repubblica by Frigerio Viaggi www.scalomilano.it

www.foxtown.com

FRANCIACORTA VILLAGE Nestled between Lakes Garda and Iseo, less than an hour from Milan, Franciacorta is not only the home to the region’s famous Docg wines but also offers a unique shopping experience with top international brands and discounts of up to 70% year-round. • WHERE: take the A4 Milan-Venice motorway and exit at Ospitaletto or the A35 Bre-Be-Mi and exit at the A4 junction. Daily shuttle service is available from Milan. • WHAT: visit the Land of Fashion: over 190 stores of Italian and international brands for up to 30-70% less all year round: Adidas, Baldinini, Beretta, Billionaire, Brooks Brothers, Calvin Klein, Cavalli Class, Fratelli Rossetti, Loriblu, Nike, Pinko, Plein Sport, Pal Zileri, Richard Ginori, Twin-Set, Trussardi, Under Armour and many more. • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: discover a land full of taste and visit the famous Franciacorta wineries with a daily shuttle service. www.franciacortavillage.it

FIDENZA VILLAGE

Piazza della Repubblica 5, corner of Via Turati

9.45am

Arrival at Fidenza Village

11.15am

Return from Fidenza Village to Milan

5.30pm

Arrival in Milan

7pm

10.30am

12.30am

2pm

3.15pm

5pm

7pm

Largo Cairoli Arrival at FoxTown Mendrisio

10am

1pm

11.15am

2.15pm

Return from FoxTown to Milan with a stopover at the Customs office to have TaxFree forms stamped Arrival in Milan

SERRAVALLE DESIGNER OUTLET

A daily shuttle bus service runs from Duomo, Central Station, Corso Buenos Aires and Largo Cairoli. Return ticket €20 adults €10 children 4/12 – 0-3 years: free.

>> Departure from Largo Cairoli by Zani Viaggi - www.zaniviaggi.it

>> Departure from Central Station and Largo Cairoli by Zani Viaggi www.zaniviaggi.it Central Station

Largo Cairoli

Departure from Serravalle

4pm

7.15pm

9am

9.30am

4.15pm

5.15pm

8.45pm

9.30am

10am

5pm

10.30am

11am

7.30pm

1pm

1.30pm

8.15pm

FRANCIACORTA VILLAGE

A daily shuttle bus service runs from Largo Cairoli. Return ticket €20 adults €10 children 4/11 – 0-3 years: free.

>> Departure from Central Station, Duomo and Corso Buenos Aires by Autostradale – www.autostradale.it

>> Departure from Largo Cairoli by Zani Viaggi - www.zaniviaggi.it Largo Cairoli

Departure from Scalo Milano

FOXTOWN FACTORY STORES

A daily shuttle bus service runs from Largo Cairoli. Return ticket €20 adults €10 children 4/11 – 0-3 years: free.

Piazza della Repubblica 5, corner of Via Turati

11am

Arrival at Franciacorta Village

12.15am

Return from Franciacorta Village to Milan

6.30pm

Central Station and Piazza Duomo

Corso Buenos Aires

Departure from Serravalle

10am

10.05am

4.30pm

12am

12.05am

6.30pm

12.30

7.30pm

8.30pm

VICOLUNGO THE STYLE OUTLETS

Take advantage of the daily Shuttle Bus connecting the centre of Milan (and Turin on Sat and Sun) with Vicolungo The Style Outlets. Return ticket €20 adults €10 children 4/11 – 0-3 years: free.

>> Departure from Largo Cairoli by Zani Viaggi - www.zaniviaggi.it Largo Cairoli

Departure from Vicolungo

10.30am

4.30pm w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 21

FASHION AND DESIGN OUTLETS | DAILY TOURS © MAURIZIO CAMAGNA

Franciacorta Village

discounted products from 30% to 70% all year round. Incredible entertainment program through the year with concerts, events and exhibitions. • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: other highlights include accessories, cosmetics and sporting goods, 14 restaurants and cafés. Non-EU residents can reclaim any VAT paid on items purchased here. Open daily: Design and Fashion: MonFri 11am-8pm and Sat-Sun 10am-8pm. Food: Mon-Fri 11am-10pm and Sat-Sun 10am-10pm. scalomilano.it

SERRAVALLE DESIGNER OUTLET The largest Designer Outlet in Europe, McArthurGlen Serravalle is located just 50 minutes away from Milan’s city center. Its beautiful setting combines all the appeal of luxury designer brands with the beauties of the surrounding Piedmont countryside and the Ligurian Riviera. McArthurGlen also boasts “Barberino” near Florence, “Castel Romano” near Rome, “La Reggia” near Naples

Serravalle Designer Outlet 22 W H E R E M I L A N I D E C E M B E R 2020

Scalo Milano Outlet & More

and “Noventa di Piave” close to Venice. • WHERE: take the A7 Milano-Genova motorway and exit Serravalle Scrivia. From the railway stations of Arquata Scrivia, Serravalle Scrivia and Novi Ligure, you can catch a shuttle bus running every day from 9am to 8.20pm. A convenient shuttle bus service runs 7 times a day from 4 locations in Milan: Central Station and Foro Bonaparte, from Piazza Duomo and Corso Buenos Aires. Buy your ticket on line at McArthurglen/Serravalle. • WHAT: a unique shopping experience with 300 of your favourite designer brands – Gucci, Dolce&Gabbana, Hugo Boss, Bluemarine, Versace, La Perla, Pollini, Roberto Cavalli, Brooks Brothers, Fratelli Rossetti, Casadei and many more… – for up to 30-70% less all year round. Serravalle combines an easy-to-reach location with a relaxing atmosphere and multiple services, including free Wifi, multilingual staff, a children’s playground, café and restaurants McArthurGlen.it/Serravalle

VICOLUNGO THE STYLE OUTLETS Situated just 30 minutes from Milan and the Malpensa Airport, in the province of Novara, this is one of the closest outlet to Milan and the ideal place to spend an exciting day shopping. • WHERE: take the A4 Milano-Torino motorway and exit at Biandrate Vicolungo. Daily shuttle service is available from Milan. • WHAT: 150 prestigious designer stores – including Armani, Missoni, Trussardi, Tommy Hilfiger, Cavalli, Calvin Klein and Twin Set – offering clothing for the whole family, homeware and beauty products at discounted prices up to 70%. The shopping experience will appeal also to outdoor sports enthusiasts who will find a selection of several of the world’s most coveted sports brands. • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: Vicolungo The Style Outlets also hosts art exhibitions, events and other initiatives for a enjoyable day’s outing. www.vicolungo.thestyleoutlets.it

Vicolungo The Style Outlets

12 11 2

1 13

14 20

A few steps from Milan... Milan is a mixture of art, culture, shopping and lifestyle and its outlying areas are equally attractive. Discover our pick of these fabulous destinations for an unmissable outof-town trip. By Simona P.K. Daviddi Our tour begins on the outskirts of Milan at the 17th-century Villa Arconati 1 (www.villaarconati-far.it). Known also as ‘the small Versailles of Lombardy’, it is set within the vast green spaces of the Groane Park in Bollate. This is a splendid example of Lombardy Baroque architecture and visitors are welcomed in its frescoed rooms, while summer evenings are jazzed up with a series of concerts and events in its magnificent gardens. We recommend a visit to the Villa Visconti Borromeo Litta 2 (www. villalittalainate.it) which is just a short distance away in Lainate. This neo-classical jewel of architecture is surrounded by a lovely park that earned the title of the ‘Most Beautiful Historical Park in Italy’ in 2016. The Villa is renowned for its Nyphaeum and spectacular water features. A mixture of sacred and profane – the Metropolitan City area is interspersed with numerous abbeys. In fact, there are so many that there is even a Road of Abbeys (www.stradadelleabbazie.it). Our route starts from the Abbey of Chiaravalle 3 , dominated by an imposing, richly frescoed 14th-century bell tower, and continues onwards to the Abbey of Viboldone 4 , one the most beautiful medieval complexes in Lombardy, until we reach Mirasole 5 , a 13th-century monastery which, with its numerous moats, resembles a fortress. After travelling for a few more kilometers, in a southwesterly direction, we come to the Abbey of Morimondo 6 , a former Cistercian monastery renovated in Gothic style.

Museo Alfa Romeo

EN PLEIN AIR The area housing the abbeys is also the heart of the large Parco Agricolo Sud Milano (www. parcoagricolosudmilano. it). 6 The Park boasts a rich historic and agricultural heritage and comprises old farmsteads, waterways and important residential complexes, including Gaggiano 7 , which, with its small, pastel-coloured houses nestling on both banks of the Naviglio Grande, is well worth a visit. This charming hamlet can be accessed from the city via a scenic bicycle track skirting the canal. The Martesana Canal also offers views of rare beauty as it flows towards the Adda river. Rural centres are interspersed with expanses of greenery (an absolute must is a visit to the Adda Park which can also be crossed by bike or on horseback) and charming urban centres, including Crespi d’Adda 8 , a late 19th-century workers’ village built up around a textiles factory and a UNESCO world heritage site (www.villaggiocrespi.it). However, Milan is not only renowned for its canals. Lying on the outskirts of the city, just behind the airport of Linate, we find the Idroscalo 9 , a large artificial lake set within green surroundings (www. idroscalo.info). The area offers all types of facilities including jogging, horseback riding and bicycle paths, boat, canoe and pedalò hire, recreational fishing and even rugby pitches. A DAY DEVOTED TO CULTURE If the weather’s gloomy, don’t despair! This is a great opportunity to visit a museum! Perhaps a historic one like the Alfa Romeo Museum 10 (www.museoalfaromeo.com) in Arese, formerly home to the prestigious factory. This museum has six floors of models that have made motoring history, as well as prototypes and memorabilia. Another must-visit option is the MA*GA Museum 11 (www.museomaga.it) in Gallarate, halfway between Malpensa Airport and Milan, one of the most important contemporary art museum in Italy. It houses a collection of more than six

Villa Arconati

9 7 30 k

3 4 5

thousand works of art hosted in its 5,000 sq.m. For lovers of the history of aviation and of the industries that turned the dream of flight into reality, the Volandia Park and Museum 12 (www.volandia.it) narrates the epic tale of aeronautics in all its forms, from the pioneering flights of the beginning of the 20th century, up to the futuristic convertiplane, from hot-air balloons to the conquest of space along over 2 km of exhibition. Discover its flight simulators, planetarium, aircraft models, Ogliari section, library, movies, bar, restaurant and a rich Volandia Store. WHAT’S NEW As with every ‘city on the move’, Milan is constantly enriched with new attractions. Two in particular deserve a special mention. The first is found in the area that hosted Expo in 2015 and which has now become MIND Milano (Milano Innovation District) 13 (www. mindmilano. it), a four thousand square metre park where visitors can attend performances, concerts and sporting events. The second innovation is Milan’s latest attraction dedicated to skydiving. Aero-Gravity 14 , the biggest freefall simulator in the world, has opened in Pero. This is a sophisticated contraption, designed to overcome the force of gravity and support flight, offering visitors (children from 4 years) the thrill of experiencing what it feels like to jump from an airplane at an altitude of 4,500 metres (www.aerogravity.it).

Aero-Gravity

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.C E T R R A V E L E

Pineider, timeless elegance The historic Florentine brand, synonymous with exclusiveness and craftsmanship in paper, leather goods and articles for writing, has recently opened a flagship store in the very central Via Manzoni.

efined vintage atmospheres pervade the 300 square metres of surface area of the new Pineider flagship store, with its sophisticated types of paper, precious pens and leather goods, both historic and contemporary. The ambition is to bring the products closer to the Pineider experience: in the former historic location of the first Feltrinelli bookshop, in fact, a space has been designed that is not simply a shop, but rather a place where you can experience the craftsmanship associated with the art of engraving on paper 24 W H E R E M I L A N I D S EEPCTEEM MBBEERR 2020 2 020

and leather, test your abilities in calligraphy courses, choose your own ink or create a bespoke, absolutely unique product together with the Pineider master craftsmen. All this in the lounge area known as “The Writers’ Club” overlooking the courtyard of the Poldi Pezzoli Museum. Proximity to Milanese cultural sites is one of the Florentine brand’s prerequisites, as it identifies its DNA in culture. From this perspective, the point-of-sale proposes to organise and promote microevents devoted to arts and passions such as music, literature, photography and the graphic arts, while always respecting the regulations and social responsibility. The design of the space has been entrusted to the studio Paolo Badesco & Partners, which has realised an exclusive concept for the Florentine brand in a harmonious balance between past and present. The opening in Milan is now in addition to the single-brand shops in Florence and Rome, while the prospects of also developing digital solutions allowing a profound link between consumer and brand are increasing.

Shopping

>> Pineider 1774 www.pineider.com Via Manzoni, 12. T: 02 36589137. Map F4

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREMILAN.COM

Made in Italy unique creations Quality, attention devoted to environmental impact and uniqueness of artistic creation are the distinctive features of the production of Nicoletta Fasani, who creates every single item personally in her own studio with the support of a triedand-tested network of small artisan firms spread between Lombardy and Basilicata, testifying to the expertise contained in products made in Italy from North to South. Nicoletta’s boutique is a secluded place in the area of Villapizzone (a surface railway station), between the university pole of Bovisa and the Portello zone, far away from the busy streets of the centre and not far from Rho Fairgrounds. It is well able to evoke the style of yesteryear, suspended between past and present. The Autumn/Winter Collection 2020-21 is a tribute to the city of Milan: it goes by the name “Retro” and is composed of large jerseys with geometrical shapes, mohair sweaters, symmetrical mix-and-match clothes and silk maxi shirts. www.nicolettafasani.com Via Paolo Mantegazza, 36. Mob. 348 0617221. Off Map

The heart of Milan in a crocodile bag Directly inspired in shape by the Teatro alla Scala façade from one perspective and Galleria Vittorio Emanuele from the other, both behind the corner from Giòsa Milano workshop and the relative showroom in Brera: the Alyzèe handbag represents one of the latest creations conceived by master craftsman Giorgio Santamaria. Always inspired by everything surrounding him, Giorgio once attracted turns his emotions into creativity and gives birth to objects in selected crocodile leather arousing strong desire, especially from the female audience. The new women’s bag, produced according to traditional techniques, is realized in the most refined crocodile or alligator skins and it boasts a metal clasp also covered in same leather and an adjustable and removable shoulder strap. Alyzèe handbag is outlined as a must-have with durability and style suitable for everyday life and the most refined outfits. Milanese style and Italian charm in a bag thanks to Giosa Milano. www.giosamilano.com Vicolo Ciovasso, 1. T: 02 86997441. Map F4

Style and craftsmanship Manzoni 24 is a contemporary space in the heart of Milan’s historic centre that blends in perfectly with its stylish surrounds in the city’s viby fashion district. A warm, welcoming venue and the perfect place to be inspired, admire and naturally try on the various fur designs on display. Luxe collections of clothing, accessories and homeware for those who appreciate modern style and traditional Italian craftsmanship. Easy-to-wear garments featuring impeccably tailored lines in which even the noblest furs are adapted to suit a young, contemporary style. Diverse materials meet and give life to new trends: quilted jackets pair perfectly with fur, fur enhances cashmere and the unexpected becomes a fashion item. Its specialized staff is on-hand to suggest the look best suited to each and every customer’s individual requirements. In the photo: cashmere parka with a soft sable trimming in a warm beige colour. www.condorpelli.it Via Manzoni, 24. T: 02 76001395. Map F4

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SHOPPING Luxury shopping

Rocca 1794

Milano Malpensa Airport (45km)

● Pisa Orologeria Rolex Boutique

Luigi Verga Orologi ●

● Gobbi 1842 ● Rocca 1794

● Orologeria Luigi Verga

● Ronchi

Official Retailers in Milan ◗ Pisa Orologeria - Rolex Boutique Via Montenapoleone, 24 T: 02 76317726

◗ Orologeria Luigi Verga Via G. Mazzini (Piazza Duomo) T: 02 8056521

◗ Gobbi 1842 Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 15 T: 02 76020536

◗ Luigi Verga Orologi Corso Vercelli, 19 T: 02 48198656

26 W H E R E M I L A N I D E C E M B E R 2020

◗ Rocca 1794 Piazza Duomo, 25. T: 02 8057447 Milano Malpensa Airport-Terminal 1 T: 02 74867578 ◗ Ronchi Via Gonzaga, 5 T: 02 877449

Illustration copyright © 2020. All rights reserved. Whilst every care has been taken to check the accuracy of the information in this map, the publishers cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions or the consequences thereof. No part of this map may be reproduced without the permission of the publishers. This map is originally designed and produced by Mario Camerini

This map is kindly sponsored by the Rolex Official Retailers in Milan

[ FA SHION DESIGNERS]

Top brands ALBERTA FERRETTI PHILOSOPHY— www.albertaferretti.com Via Montanapoleone, 18. T: 02 76003095. M3 Montenapoleone, Map G4 ASPESI—www.aspesi.com Via San Pietro all'Orto, 24. T: 02 76022478. M1 San Babila. Map G4 BOTTEGA VENETA—www.bottegaveneta. com. Via Montenapoleone, 27/a. T: 02 76024495 • Maison Bottega Veneta, Via Sant’Andrea, 15. T: 02 77878115. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 BRUNELLO CUCINELLI— www.brunellocucinelli.com Via Montenapoleone, 27/c. T: 02 76015982. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G3 DOLCE&GABBANA—www.dolcegabbana.it Via Montenapoleone, 4. T: 02 77123711. Map F4 • Corso Venezia, 15 (Man). T: 02 76028485. M1 San Babila. Map G4 • via della Spiga, 2 (Accessories). T: 02 795747. M1 San Babila. Map G4 EMILIO PUCCI—www.emiliopucci.com Via Montenapoleone, 27. T: 02 76318356. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4

MICHAEL KORS—www.michaelkors.com Corso Vittorio Emanuele II corner of Galleria San Carlo, 12. T: 02 76341378. M1 San Babila. Map G4 • Via della Spiga, 8. T: 02 76341381. M3 Montenapoleone, M1 San Babila. Map G4

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO—www.ferragamo. com (Woman) Via Montenapoleone, 3. T: 02 76000054. M1 San Babila. Map G4 • (Man) Via Montenapoleone, 20/4. T: 02 76006660. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

MISSONI—www.missoni.it Via Sant’Andrea corner of via Bagutta. T: 02 76003555. M1 San Babila. Map G4

TOD’S—www.tods.com Via della Spiga, 22. T: 02 76002423. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 • Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II (Sun 10.30am7pm). T: 02 877997. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4

MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com Via Sant’Andrea, 21. T: 02 76001799. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 • Via Sant’Andrea, 21 (Woman Accessories). T: 02 76001799. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 • c/o la Rinascente, Piazza Duomo. T: 02 55028800. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 PRADA—www. prada.com Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 63/65 (Woman). T: 02 876979. • Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 62 (Man). T: 02 87211450. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 • Via Montenapoleone, 8 (Woman). T: 02 7771771. Via Montenapoleone, 6 (Man). T: 02 76020273. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 • Via della Spiga, 18 (Woman Accessories). T: 02 780465. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4

STEFANO RICCI—www.stefanoricci.com Via Gesù, 3. T: 02 798588. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 TRUSSARDI—www.trussardi.it Concept Store: Piazza della Scala, 5. T: 02 80688242. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 VALENTINO—www.valentino.com Via Montenapoleone, 20. T: 02 76006182. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 VERSACE—www.versace.com Via Montenapoleone, 11. T: 02 76008528. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 • Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. T: 02 89011479. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA— www.zegna.com Via Montenapoleone, 27/E. T: 02 76006437. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 ETRO—www.etro.com Via Montenapoleone, 5. T: 02 76005049. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 FRATELLI ROSSETTI— www.fratellirossetti.com Via Montenapoleone, 1. T: 02 76021650. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani.com Via Sant’Andrea, 9 (and in Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II). T: 02 76003234. M1 San Babila. Map G4 • One stop shop for Armani Lifestyle, from food to home accessories. Via A. Manzoni, 31. T: 02 72318600. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 GUCCI—www.gucci.com Via Montenapoleone, 5/7. T: 02 771271. M1 San Babila. Map G4 • Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. T: 02 8597991. M1-M3 Duomo. Map G4 LORO PIANA—www.loropiana.com Via Montenapoleone, 27. T: 02 7772901. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com Via Montenapoleone, 2. T: 02 7771711. M1 San Babila. Map G4 • Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. T: 02 72147011. M1-M3 Duomo. Map G4 w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 27

SHOPPING

Beauty in the City

Chanel

Top addresses where you can find the most exclusive cosmetics and the most sought-after fragrances… for ‘readyto-wear’ beauty! exclusive perfumes for men and women, body-care products, home fragrances and accessories contained in elegant bottles inspired by the tradition of the city’s famous hand-blown Murano glass (via Brera 4, www.merchantofvenice.com). Set within a truly ‘futuristic’ ambience, the Diego dalla Palma make-up studio offers the entire range of the Milanese guru’s products dedicated to professional makeup and beauty treatments (via Madonnina, www.diegodallapalma.com). And, for connoisseurs only, L’Officina Profumo – Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, whose name conjures up the scents of times gone by, still sells traditional elixirs, along with more contemporary skin-care products, oils and perfumes (www.smnovella.it).

Rinascente THE FRAGRANCES OF THE QUADRILATERO It’s no secret that countless big fashion labels have branched out into beauty. The striking boutiques of the Quadrilatero della Moda are packed with the latest collections of designer fragrances and beauty products for him and her. Get on the bandwagon and be seduced by the stunning designer packaging covering beauty products created by Chanel, Hermès, Burberry, Gucci, Fendi and Valentino, and don’t forget the products of Giorgio Armani that are characterized by his sought-after aesthetic and quality, and are on sale at his boutique at number 31 via Manzoni (Armani beauty at Armani/Manzoni 31 www.armani.com). There are also many monobrand stores like the Acqua di Parma boutique in via

Diego dalla Palma

28 W H E R E M I L A N I D E C E M B E R 2020

Gesù, an ideal location to rediscover the innate values of Italian excellence and artisanship (www.acquadiparma.com). 1989 saw the birth of Etro’s ‘fragrance library’: a universe, consisting of fragrances bottled in the brand’s signature packaging, that uses colour to spark the desire for a perfume and images to play with the imagination. Etro’s fragrances can be purchased at the brand’s centrally located standalone boutique in via Montenapoleone 5 (www.etro.com). The eye-catching boutiques of historic perfumer Jo Malone London are located in via Manzoni 18 and at no. 13 via Santa Maria alla Porta. This is a world dedicated to the rarest fragrances steeped in British culture, where heritage pieces of furniture in shades of beige and black are juxtaposed with more contemporary elements, creating an environment where shopping becomes an intimate, luxurious experience (www.jomalone.com). AMIDST THE PERFUMES OF BRERA If you happen to find yourself in the heart of Brera, the new district of Artistic Perfumery, we recommend three go-to addresses for the beauty addict. First of all, the new boutique of The Merchant of Venice, an historic perfumery epitomizing the art of Venetian perfume-making. It offers a luxury line encompassing a wide range of

ALL IN ONE Rinascente in piazza Duomo is another reference point, where all the most exclusive brands in the sector are found under one roof. After crossing this threshold, you will be welcomed by an entire floor devoted to fragrances and make-up, with dedicated corners where you can treat yourself to a customized make-up experience executed by a highly qualified staff member (www.rinascente.it). Finally, Sephora, with numerous boutiques scattered across the city, is a top spot for the latest pampering products. Here, you can lose yourself amidst thousands of fragrances for him and her, skincare products, and the brightly-coloured cosmetics of some of the most celebrated brands in the sector (www.sephora.it).

Hermès

SHOPPING Luxury shopping Illustration copyright © 2020 All rights reserved. Whilst every care has been taken to check the accuracy of the information in this map, the publishers cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions or the consequences thereof. No part of this map may be reproduced without the permission of the publishers. This map is originally designed and produced by Mario Camerini

Vercelli-Belfiore-Marghera

Luigi Verga Orologi A large selection of some of the most desirable watch brands available on the market, including Rolex, Tudor, IWC, Panerai, Baume & Mercier, Montblanc, Tag Heuer, Dietrich and Pomellato jewelry. The internal workshop provides high qualified watch repair and maintenance services. Open daily 10am-1.30pm/ 3pm-7pm. www.vergaorologi.it Corso Vercelli, 19 M1 Conciliazione-Pagano T: 02 48198656

● Luigi Verga Orologi

O F F I C I A L R E TA I L E R

Tax Free Refund Guide According to the Italian law, non-EU resident travellers may be granted VAT relief/refund for goods intended for personal or family use purchased in Italy. This relief is surely an advantage for the foreign travellers: in fact, it allows to save from a minimum of 4% up to a maximum of 22% of the selling price of the goods purchased. Here is a short guide according to the Italian legislation to discover the common system of value added tax exclusively for non-EU resident travellers. 1. VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a value added tax on goods and services, and is part of the European Union’s value added tax system. 2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a VAT refund. This refund does not cover the services supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies. 3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: • you are a non-EU resident; • the goods purchased are intended for personal or family use only and are carried in your luggage; • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds 154,94 Euro (VAT included); • the purchase is certified by an invoice. This invoice should include a description of the goods purchased, your personal information as well as the details of your passport or any other equivalent document;

• the goods shall leave the EU territory by the third month following the date of issue of the invoice, as proved by the “customs stamp”; • from 1 September 2018, tax free invoices in Italy must be electronically transmitted by the national seller to OTELLO information system (Online Tax Refund at Exit: Light Lane Optimization) and their validation is digitally carried out. • after the digital “customs stamp” is obtained, OTELLO will send a message to the retailer that all the requirements are met and, as a consequence, the retailer will reimburse the amount due or will settle the tax relief. • the invoice is returned to the Italian retailer within four months after the purchase was made. If the invoice is stamped by other EU countries, it needs to be brought to the shop retailer by the fourth month following that of the purchase. 4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must be shown at the customs exit point when leaving EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items into your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs BEFORE checking in). 5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return the original invoice, regularly endorsed by the customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice must be returned within four months from the date when the

document was issued. 6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian retailer (however, make sure that the shop you’ve chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax Free” sign in its window). 7. Several Tax-Free companies are able to offer immediate VAT cash refunds when the goods leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating the passenger from having to return the invoice to the retailer). However, this procedure only applies at major international airports or main border crossings. Most major department stores have Tax Free Refund offices. 8. The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply the payment of a small administrative sum which is directly deducted from the amount of VAT refunded to the traveller. 9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund within a reasonable period of time, he or she should recontact the Italian retailer or one of the aforementioned companies. 10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded directly by customs offices. Source: https://www.adm.gov.it/portale/ee/citizen/otelloenglish-version/legislation

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SHOPPING

PH © BEPPE RASO

THE WORLD OF ARMANI

Giorgio Armani boutique

In Milan, Armani is not simply a fashion brand but rather an integral part of city life, deeply rooted in the city’s history. Starting from the Giorgio Armani boutique in via Sant’Andrea, in the same location where in 1983 “King Giorgio” opened his first boutique: 1200 sq.m. where the past “is woven with the future” (www.armani.com. Via Sant’Andrea, 9. T: 02 76003234. M1 San Babila. Map G4). Don’t forget the Emporio Armani Uomo at Rinascente (2nd Floor), where you can find clothing and accessories for him (corner at Rinascente, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II. T: 02 8852489. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4).

Armani/Casa

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At the Armani/Manzoni31 you can also find the following Armani lines: Armani/Dolci by Guido Gobino, Armani/Fiori, Emporio Armani man and woman, junior collection of Emporio Armani, EA7, Armani/Libri, Armani beauty (via Manzoni 31, T: 02 72318600. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4). The Armani/Casa flagship store in Corso Venezia 14, with 16 display windows showcasing the brand's collection, is a reference point for interior decor, from furniture to lighting; from accessories to textiles (www.armani.com/casa).

Armani/Dolci

In Milan, a number of the coolest locations also carry the Armani signature. These include Nobu Milano, the sushi restaurant combining contemporary cuisine and Italian & Japanese tradition in the heart of Milan (www.noburestaurants. com/milan. Via Pisoni 1, T: 02 62312645. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4) and the new Emporio Armani Caffè & Ristorante. On the ground floor you can find the new large café, where one can sample and purchase fresh pastries made in-house or Armani/Dolci by Guido Gobino products. On the first floor, there is the restaurant with a luxurious champagne bar. The wide, varied food offering satisfies all the tastes: the more casual ground floor offers a modern and quick menu while the restaurant’s gourmet menu blends tradition and innovation (via Croce Rossa 2, T: 02 72318680. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4).

The interior architecture of the new boutique has been inspired by style elements of the 1930s, the period to which the building dates back, but these influences have been used in order to develop a completely contemporary design.

The Armani/Silos exhibition space, opened in 2015, gathers over 40 years of the Armani universe, showcasing the designer's unique aesthetic. Four floors of innovative space host the permanent collection alongside temporary exhibitions, (www.armanisilos. com. Via Bergognone, 40. Map D6). Armani dominates the centre of Milan with a large billboard at the junction between

Nobu Milano

Emporio Armani Caffè & Ristorante

via Cusani and via Broletto (Map F4), for years one of the symbols of the city. And, since 2011, Armani is also a hotel: 95 rooms, a haute cuisine restaurant, a luxurious SPA and magnificent panoramic views over the city (Armani Hotel Milano, via Manzoni 31. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4. www.armanihotelmilano.com).

PH © DAVIDE LOVATTI

Armani/Silos

PH © DAVIDE LOVATTI

SHOPPING

The bond between Giorgio Armani and Milan is a relationship made up of powerful feelings, which has generated important initiatives that have enriched the city time after time.

Armani/Spa

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Five reasons why

Bialetti

MILANESE STYLE ICONS Discover iconic items that are an absolute ‘must’ in the everyday lives of Milanese locals. Timeless objects like the quintessential ‘Bialetti Moka’ coffee maker, ‘Tacco 12’ stiletto heels, the typical Piquadro backpack for businessmen and the classic Italian Spritz Cocktail. Liu Jo

Kartell

Twinset

Piquadro

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Carlo Pazolini

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PAYMENTS & TAX-FREE SHOPPING International partners like Global Blue and Planet help you operate the tax refund process. After noticing a growing interest by international tourists, we decided to integrate our payment methods with Alipay and WeChat Pay, and create a tailor-made shopping card.

EXCLUSIVE SERVICES

Discover the new Loyalty programme. Free and PICK UP YOUR TOURIST CARD digital, with "I Love Card" you get 10% discount, many dedicated advantages and every day you AT THE INFO POINT can win fantastic gift cards of 10, 30 and 50 €. In addition, if you are a tourist, with 500€ AND ENJOY A 10% DISCOUNT. shopping we offer you a 50€ taxi voucher for a comfortable return. We have many other

150 exclusive shops up tofree 70% offfor outlet price.including the services your shopping, network Wi-Fi, power bank for mobile phones and children's area.

S13

LOCATE DI TRIULZI

DAILY SHUTTLE BUS FROM P.ZZA REPUBBLICA (NEWSSTAND) NEW STOP P.TA ROMANA M3

SHOPPING

Tiffany&Co

DUOMO DISTRICT & MORE Piazza Duomo is also home to the largest Tiffany & Co. boutique in Europe.

Valli Tessuti Alta Moda ●

●

Milan’s historic centre is contained within a relatively small area which is now mostly closed to traffic, meaning that it’s easy to explore on foot. There’s no need to choose between planning a ‘cultural’ itinerary or a ‘shopping’ itinerary because you can combine the two and get the most out of both. In addition to being packed with several of Milan’s most famous attractions, this area is home to myriad shops, including big-name fashion brands, historic ‘botteghe’ and some of the city’s most sought-after cafés, bars and eateries. In the space of just a few kilometers you’ll find the Duomo, the Galleria, Teatro

alla Scala, the Castle, the ancient Basilica di Sant’Ambrogio, as well as sporadic traces of ‘Roman Milan’, the first settlement and the predecessor of present-day Milan. AROUND THE DUOMO For the ultimate one-stop shopping experience look no further than the Rinascente flagship store (under the arcades): an amazing array of fashion items under just one roof! Just a little further on, the window displays of Rocca 1794 will seduce you with their collections of several of the world’s most desirable jewellery and watch brands.

TOWARDS TEATRO ALLA SCALA: THE GALLERIA Known as the ‘living room’ of Milan, the Galleria links Piazza del Duomo to piazza della Scala. For the past 150 years, it has been a meeting place for the Milanese and their guests. In the Galleria, haute couture takes centre stage. In addition to Prada and Versace, other standouts include Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Armani, Borsalino, Luisa Spagnoli, Bric’s, Tod’s, Stefanel and Massimo Dutti alternated with historic workshops (whose signs serve as an indication of their storied past). A reference point in Milan for the best Made in Italy cuts is Valli Tessuti Alta Moda, with the perfect fabrics to make elegant outfits. You say ‘aperitivo’ and you immediately think of Camparino in Galleria, a landmark location and a reference point where Milan’s elite meet to partake in one of Italy’s oldest social traditions! Carlo Cracco’s new locale is spread over four floors and focuses on opulent aesthetic and culinary offerings, from breakfast to post-theatre dining. For those in search of a taste of tradition, located just nearby is Luini (renowned for its one-of-a-kind “panzerotti”). Conversely, those favouring a more sought-after gourmet experience can either opt to eat at Ristorante Galleria where you enjoy a taste of Milanese food and hospitality (for generations, the Galli family has defined Milanese hospitality in the Galleria!) or at Ristorante Savini, one of Milan’s most iconic landmark restaurants, or at the Marchesi alla Scala restaurant. Don’t miss the Lavazza flagship store, a space where coffee lovers can sample an authentic espresso and innovative coffee-based recipes.

VALLI TESSUTI ALTA MODA A reference point in Milan for the best Made in Italy cuts. Located in via Verdi, just steps from Teatro alla Scala, here expert staff will assist you in the search for the perfect fabric to make elegant outfits, prêt-à-porter or formal wear. These fabrics are inspired by the patterns of the most up-todate haute couture collections. Valli stocks a wide assortment of exquisite fabrics for men (including pinstripes and prince of Wales check by Ermenegildo Zegna and Loro Piana) and women (Valentino and Ungaro), as well as bolts of cloth to make coats and outerwear, shirts, accessories and bridal gowns. Alipay payment accepted. vallitessuti.com Via G. Verdi, 2 - T: 02 782124. M3 Montenapoleone

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[RINASCENTE]

One-stop shop

Shopping at its best

THIS PAGE IS KINDLY SPONSORED BY RINASCENTE

For your Christmas shopping in the shadow of the Duomo head to the Rinascente store

This year Rinascente, with its wide range of products - also available online - is therefore ready to to give a magical and unforgettable Christmas to all its visitors. 10 storeys featuring a refined, contemporary 10 storeys featuring a refined, contemporary ambience where shoppers can find an exclusive selection of fashion for men, women and kids, accessories, beauty, lingerie, home interiors, food and design. Constant new arrivals from the most prestigious brands and emerging talents allow shoppers to find both timeless classics and the latest fashion trends. The basement floor houses the Design Supermarket, a floor devoted to design in its multiple expressions featuring a slew of articles carrying the signature of the greats of national and international designer: Alessi, Pantone and loads of others besides. The ground floor is a true emporium of beauty and prominent fragrance brands,

featuring not only corners and a staff of expert makeup artists but also the jewellery area hosting precious collections of high jewelry. Conversely, the balcony houses the luxury accessories of famed and fabled Italian and international brands. The store’s range of menswear fashion is spread over floors 1 and 2, featuring luxury, classical, smart and casual collections, plus the Men Shoe Heaven boasting sneakers and formal shoes by 23 different brands, while the 3rd and 4th floors are given over to women’s fashions (including the must-visit footwear area). The 5th floor is dedicated to lingerie and children’s fashion. Continuing upwards, you’ll reach the 6th floor devoted to homeware collections while the 7th floor houses the exclusive Food Hall hosting various themed restaurants (Basara, Obicà Mozzarella Bar,

Il Bar, JUICEx, Maio Restaurant, Be Steak, De Santis, Champagnerie Moët & Chandon) and the Food Market, where you can purchase any number of international delicacies. Discover the Wine Shop area which has been recently expanded: at this unique space dedicated to the finest wines on the Italian and international scene, you can taste and purchase the products of world-class producers. Visitors love this floor as it is the ideal place to find luxury food gifts and, what’s more, a fab panoramic terrace featuring a spectacular view over the spires of the Duomo. Visit also Annex Rinascente, the space devoted to streetwear adjacent to the main building and featuring more than 200 brands, which now features a totally re-designed men’s area. >> Rinascente - Piazza Duomo www.rinascente.it. Open 7 days a week. T: 02 88521. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 35

Dr. Vranjes

SHOPPING

BRERA DISTRICT & MORE amidst the heady scents of “brioches” and “cappuccino”, you'll have a chance to begin your day on a high note. A reference point for antique lovers, Brera boasts numerous antique shops and art galleries. Among these, Pettinaroli, just relocated from its historic headquarters near the Duomo to no. 4 via Brera, offers a wide selection of maps and antique prints. As an aside, those interested in bargains or bric à brac should definitely make time to visit the Mercatino di antiquariato e brocantage, held on the third Sunday of each month. The array of boutiques continues with the elegant artisan footwear sold by Iliprandi or the tailor-made, Italian-style shoes by Alfonso Garlando. Other points of interest include the elegant womenswear boutique Rosso35 and Misani's artisanal jewels for him and for her.

Angela Caputi Giuggiù ● Giosa Milano ●

Brera is synonymous with the artistic heart of the city. As you stroll along the streets of this ancient district, you cannot help but be enchanted by its almost surreal atmosphere boasting small artisans’ workshops or quaint stores selling canvases and paints.

historic Biblioteca Nazionale Braidense (Braidense National Library), the Museo Astronomico (The Astronomical Museum), the oldest scientific research institute in the city and the Giardino Botanico (Botanical Gardens).

EDITOR'S TIP Additionally, Brera is home to the impressive Accademia di Belle Arti, where visitors can admire Milan’s famous painting collection at the Pinacoteca di Brera (the Brera Picture Gallery), the

ART AND PASSION SHOPPING To start your sightseeing tour on the right foot, we suggest stopping for a cup of coffee at Princi, not just an ordinary bakery, but a meeting point where,

Since the very beginning, elegance, flair and femininity have represented the three underlying values of each collection signed by Angela Caputi Giuggiù. Angela Caputi’s bijoux are distinguished by the use of synthetic resins highlighted by rigorously handcrafted working and construction techniques. These creations, definable as truly unique pieces, are undeniably precious and sophisticated; an expression of art known throughout the world as a symbol of unadulterated Made-in-Italy excellence (www.angelacaputi.com). Specializing for generations in the working of crocodile skins, Giòsa Milano at no. 1 via Ciovasso manufactures precious pieces which though crafted according to the classic canons of precious skins are nevertheless developed with an innovative, contemporary twist. The history of Giòsa Milano dates back to 1950s and reflects

GIOSA MILANO Surrounded by art galleries and goldsmiths’ workshops, at their atelier in via Ciovasso, Giorgio Santamaria and his son Gioele continue to write the history of high-end Milanese craftsmanship working with exclusive crocodile skins. Giosa offers customers a chance to become the designers of their creations, allowing them to choose from a wide range of precious crocodile skins, available in a remarkable array of colours and finishes. Customers can create their own unique, custom-made accessory inside the atelier’s historic vault under the guidance of expert artisans. www.giosamilano.com Via Ciovasso, 6 - T: 02 86997441. M1 Cairoli, M2 Lanza

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THE BEST OF BRERA DISTRICT ADVERTORIAL

Pinacoteca di Brera the company’s passion and commitment to tradition, a perfect example of Made in Italy artisan luxury. Nestling in the heart of the picturesque Brera district, its workshop fashions a vast range of bespoke creations designed to suit individual tastes, real made-to-measure items ranging from clothing for men and women to accessories such as bags, briefcases, wallets, belts, watch cases, desk-tops and just about anything that can be created using only the finest crocodile skin, including more unusual, contemporary items like Iphone or Ipad covers (www.giosamilano.com). THE PERFUME DISTRICT Considered one of Milan’s quaintest districts, in addition to its picturesque artisanal workshops, Brera is slowly becoming populated with small yet delectable shops carrying only the most sought-after fragrances, transforming the area into a ‘district of Artistic Perfumery’. For both lovers of signature fragrances and for neophytes who are eager to delve deeper into this desirable universe, we suggest a short tour to experience the enchantment of ‘Haute Parfumerie’.

Ristorante Daniel At no. 4 via Brera, we find the The Merchant of Venice boutique, an historic perfumery epitomizing the art of Venetian perfumemaking offering a luxury line encompassing a wide range of exclusive perfumes for men and women contained in elegant bottles inspired by the tradition of the city’s famous hand-blown Murano glass (www.themerchantofvenice.com). At no. 5, we find the Olfattorio Bar-àParfums, dedicated to specialty perfumery, and boasting a truly unique range of artistic perfumes, niche cosmetics and luxury make-up (www.olfattorio.it). The space also has a corner dedicated to Penhaligon’s, the luxury British perfume house established in 1870. The Olfattorio is also present in Milan, at no. 23 via Brera, with the Dyptyque boutique, purveyors of the famous and uber trendy Dyptyque candles (wwwdiptyqueparis.eu), the L’Artisan Parfumeur in via Bagutta 8, renowned for its pioneering spirit and contemporary fragrances for more than 40 years, and a space at Rinascente in piazza Duomo. Other must-visits while in the area include Profumo (via Brera 6, www.profumomilano.

com), the Amouage boutique (via Fiori Chiari 7, www.amouage.com), Dr.Vranjes (via Fiori Chiari 24, http://drvranjes.it), Officina Profumo - Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella (via Madonnina 11, www.smnovella.com), Creed (via Madonnina 17, creed.cale.it), 9Nine (via Ponte Vetero 22, www.beautysanspa.com) and Fragonard (via Solferino 2, www.fragonard.com). TASTING SUGGESTIONS Between visiting one shop and another, you might be surprised to suddenly discover that it’s time for lunch. Try the typical Parma-based charcuterie specialities at Parma & Co, or the famed sandwiches sold by Panino Giusto. The afternoon is likely to pass by in a flash until you suddenly realize that it’s aperitivo time: there’s no doubt that you’ll be captivated by the purely Art Déco-style atmosphere of El Tombon de San Marc, the trendier atmosphere of Fashion Café in via San Marco; another option is Ristorante Daniel offering contemporary Italian cuisine and the chance to enjoy something new from day to day.

ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ The precious collections designed by Angela Caputi are a meld of fashion and art. Angela Caputi first established her exclusive workshop in Florence, in 1975, where she personally designs all her collections under the “Angela Caputi Giuggiù” brand name. Renowned throughout the world, her bijoux, made entirely by hand using synthetic resins, are an authentic expression of “Made-in-Italy” elegance. Sophisticated, original creations combined to create unique objects both in terms of colour and shape. A magical blend of contemporary and classical taste. www.angelacaputi.com Via Madonnina, 11 - T: 02 86461080. M2 Lanza

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Dining

Giacomo Bistrot, fairytale breakfast Immersed in the refined, elegant atmosphere of one of the best loved venues in Milan, the typically Milanese taste experience of Giacomo Bistrot also extends to breakfast and afternoon tea.

any in the city are already familiar with the name “Giacomo”, because various structures have come about, all relating back to a single style, from this historic name in Milanese dining. These are locations that we could define as “special places” in Milan. To mention just a few, the “Ristorante Giacomo” in Via Sottocorno, not far away from the “Rosticceria” and “Pasticceria” with the same name, then “Giacomo Arengario” inside the Museo del Novecento, or “Caffè Giacomo”, a delightful place to stop off before or after visiting an exhibition at Palazzo 38 W H E R E M I L A N I D E C E M B E R 2020

Reale. This name is also echoed by “Giacomo Bistrot”, an intimate, classic venue in the tiny gourmet neighbourhood of Via Sottocorno, where you are guaranteed being able to taste dishes of quality in a romantic atmosphere. This classic bistro in French style, where you breathe an atmosphere of charm and sophistication, has recently extended its offer to also include the morning ritual of breakfast and a relaxing afternoon tea. At the weekend, to start the day well, you must try the new expertly prepared breakfast: classic or international, depending on your own personal taste, with cappuccino, coffee, fresh juices, brioches and artisan pastries straight out of the oven, or toast with a choice of fillings, eggs cooked in many different ways and other specialities. And the experience also continues after lunch, because in the afternoon break, starting from 3.30pm, you can order a tea from the most prestigious selections, accompanied by cakes, biscuits and delicious pastries.

>> Ristorante Giacomo Bistrot Via Pasquale Sottocorno 6 T: 02 76022653. Map H4w

Milano

FELICE A TESTACCIO Roman cuisine since 1936

Via del Torchio, 4 - Milan PHONE +39 0280506690

DINING

TUTTE LEtasting “STELLE” DI MILANO Milanese Milan offers a cuisine featuring a number of truly unusual flavours. Here is a brief guide to make sure that you don’t miss out on several of the city’s best and most typical recipes.

Mondeghili

PH © ALTISSIMOACETO

TRIPE (OR BUSECCA) A hearty winter dish that will keep the cold out, its main ingredient is the stomach lining of sheep or cows. It was originally served to celebrate special occasions in the peasant world. Upgrades include the addition of oysters and caviar and can be sampled at Michelin-starred osteria, “Al Pont de Ferr” at the Navigli district (pontdeferr.it). CASSOEULA Acccording to the history books, composer and conductor Arturo Toscanini was mad about this dish made from pork (sausages, pork rinds and spare ribs) and cabbage. For a taste of old-world Milan, suggest you try it at “Antica Trattoria della Pesa” in Via Pasubio (www.anticatrattoriadellapesa.com). MONDEGHILI Small meat balls fried in butter and oil and a signature dish of renowned chef Bruno Barbieri who has made them an art form. You can taste the traditional Milanese meat balls at “Al Matarel” (www.almatarel.it).

Cassoeula

PH © STEFANOTRIULZI

COTOLETTA ALLA MILANESE Mentioned for the first time in1500 at the court of the Sforza, its “invention” was a source of contention with the Viennese who laid claim to its origin. According to the traditional recipe, the veal slices used should be at least as thick as a finger, coated in egg and bread crumbs and deep fried in butter. One of the best places to eat breaded veal cutlets in Milan is at “Da Giannino” (www.gianninoristorante.it) or at the “Al Garghet” restaurant (www.algarghet.it).

Ristorante Da Giannino

Tripe

PH © LORENZO CHINI

RISOTTO ALLO ZAFFERANO This is one of the few dishes boasting a specific “birth date”. In fact, legend has it that, on 8 September 1574, master glassmaker Valerio di Fiandra was presented with a dish of saffron-coloured rice at his daughter’s wedding feast after which time it became an iconic dish of Milanese cuisine. Master Chef Gualtiero Marchesi has transformed this delicacy into a real work of art, with the addition of a square of edible gold leaf! We also suggest trying its crunchier version: so-called “riso al salto”. Try the creative dishes signed by Carlo Cracco at his restaurant in Galleria Vittorio Emanuele (www.ristorantecracco.it)

PANETTONE Boasting 500 years of tradition, panettone is a type of large, sweet bread, leavened very slowly and enriched with raisins and candied fruit. Amidst history and legend, the theories as to the origins of panettone vary widely. One of

40 W H E R E M I L A N I D E C E M B E R 2020

DINING

Cracco

Dulcis in fundo, are the city’s famous desserts, pastries and confectionery. In addition to world famed Italian gelato, an absolute “must” in summer, year-round you can also try Milan’s traditional Tiramisù (although the main ingredient of the classic recipe includes coffee, there are also other variations on the theme) and Profiteroles, mouth watering chocolate coated puffs filled with custard. Finally, there are also a number of other typical delicacies that are prepared during the holiday season including Colomba (at Easter) and Chiacchiere and Frittelle (at Carnival) and panettone (at Christmas).

Your home restaurant

PH © NELEA33/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

the most romantic is the story linking its invention to Ugo, a young falconer employed by Prince Ludovico il Moro. Ugo yearned to conquer the heart of the daughter of a poor baker named Toni. To win her over, the nobleman disguised himself as a baker and invented a rich bread in which he added to the flour and yeast, butter, eggs, dried raisins and candied lemon and orange peel. The fame of the bread spread far and wide and became known as “Pan del Toni” (Toni’s bread). According to history, the tradition of panettone is documented by a manuscript conserved at the Biblioteca Ambrosiana dating back to the 15th century. Already at that time, on the night of 24 December, it was customary for the pater familias to place a huge log in the fireplace and to slice the large loaf of bread which he then distributed among those present. From a gastronomic point of view, the distinguishing feature of panettone is that it is leavened two or three times. Its golden colour derives from the skilful combination of butter and egg yokes, while its overall beauty is completed by the orange, green and brown notes resulting from the addition of candied fruit and raisins. The gourmet trick is to warm it for a few minutes in front of an open oven or on top of a radiator before serving it.

Dedicated to those who want to experience the real regional culinary tradition, the typical products of the territory and recipes handed down through the generations of Italian families. The “Cesarine” network - spread out over 140 Italian cities with over 1000 amateur chefs - has become established over recent years with this very aim: to offer a complete gastronomic experience by opening up the doors of home with lunches and dinners, personalised show cooking, cooking competitions, visits to markets or local producers or catering in exclusive locations. Having lunch with an Italian family, with dishes prepared following the typical traditions of the local cuisine, tasting the wines of the territory, is a truly unique experience! And from this year live cooking courses and virtual appointments are available on the cesarine.com website, in both Italian and English, so you can continue to learn family recipes and all the secrets of traditional cuisine. www.cesarine.com

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Entertainment

Welcome to green tourism

BY GIULIA MINERO

ake Como, with its landscapes and its resorts rich in history, is the ideal destination for a one-day trip in an electric car, thanks also to its proximity to Milan. With the service offered by NoleggioElettrico, up to 48 hours before your departure you can choose the Tesla car that best meets your needs from the Model S, Model X or Model 3 and request delivery to your door, to your hotel or at the airport. You begin your tour in the direction of Como and discover some of its attractions, such as the Duomo, the Basilica of 42 W H E R E M I L A N I D E C E M B E R 2020

Sant'Abbondio, Villa Olmo, the public gardens with the Tempio Voltiano and the Broletto, the city’s medieval municipal hall. After travelling through the town of Cernobbio in the silence of your electric car, you head north, to admire Villa del Balbianello. Located on the western bank of the lake, this eighteenth-century dwelling surrounded by terraced gardens boasts unique views of the nearby Isola Comacina and has been the backdrop for numerous films. If you have a weakness for the architectures of the past, a visit to Villa Carlotta in the town of Tremezzo is a must, maybe also making time for a pause for refreshments. Don't worry about consumption, however; the Tesla battery boasts a high level of autonomy and enables you to carry out your tour without any need for recharging. After visiting the villa, its art collections and botanical gardens, you head for Menaggio and embark, with your car, on the ferryboat that crosses the lake in the direction of Bellagio. Here, in the town considered “the pearl of the lake”, you can devote your energies to shopping, walking in the pedestrian-only streets

or visiting the Park of Villa Serbelloni. Then conclude your itinerary by travelling along the lake-front to reach the city of Lecco and visit its historic centre, but not before allowing yourself to be enchanted by the landscape that inspired Alessandro Manzoni’s novel “The Betrothed”. >> Book your electric car at www.noleggioelettrico.com or email info@noleggioelettrico.com Discover more about electric mobility in Italy at www.wheremilan.com/tips

The tourism of the future is green and highly personalisable. Why not try it in person with a tour to discover the beauties of Lake Como in an electric car?

PHOTO COURTESY OF MIBACT

Sightseeing MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Discovering Leonardo’s masterpiece One of the most famous attractions in the world, but not easily accessible due to strict conservation regulations, Leonardo da Vinci's Last Supper has become “for everyone” thanks to new multimedia supports.

he large mural painting by Leonardo, representing the scene of the last supper of Jesus narrated in the Gospel, adorns a wall of the huge refectory in the convent annexed to the church of Santa Maria delle Grazie. Work on the Last Supper began around 1494 and was completed in 1497: Leonardo devoted painstaking attention to every detail of his works and he began with the overall conception of the wall, and then devoted lengthy study to

the general composition and the individual figures, describing their “motions of the soul” through gestures, expressions and body language. For this masterpiece, da Vinci did not adopt the usual fresco technique, seeking instead a method that would allow him to make continual adjustments on the work. Just a few years after the fresco was completed, however, the paint began coming away from the plaster, and the supporting layer gradually crumbled. The most recent restoration work, lasting over twenty years, removed the layers of dirt and the materials added during earlier work, bringing large parts of the original painting to light. On the occasion of the 500th anniversary of Leonardo’s death (2019), a multimedia project was launched to open the Refectory to everyone, at least on a virtual level. You can consult the dedicated website with useful information for the visit and in-depth information (www.cenacolovinciano.org),

discover communication via social media through Instagram (cenacolo_vinciano) and Facebook (Museo del Cenacolo Vinciano) profiles and download the free App in 8 languages which offers a unique visit route (Cenacolo Vinciano).

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ESSENTIALS Tariffa / Fare 6 zone Mi1 - Mi6

S7 S8 S9 S11 S7 S8 S9 S11

Tariffa / Fare 5 zone Mi1 - Mi5

PEA

S2 S4 Tariffa / Fare 4 zone Mi1 - Mi4

Cusano Milanino

S1 S3

RONA

S1 S3 Bresso Cormano

Vimodrone

Bollate

S5 S6

S5-S6 RHO Fieramilano S11

COMASINA

Pero PERO

Limite tariffa abbonamenti urbani Urban passes fare limit

Segrate

Limite tariffa / Fare limit 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3

S5 S6

Baranzate

PERO

Certosa S5-S6 -S11

Limite tariffa abbonamenti urbani Limite tariffa abbonamenti urbani Urban passes fare limit Urban passes fare limit

BIGNAMI Parco Nord PONALE

AFFORI FN

Quarto Oggiaro Quarto Oggiaro S1-S3 S1-S3

Pero

Bruzzano S2-S4

COMASINA

S5-S6 S11

S2-S4

Villapizzone S5-S6 -S11

Tariffa / Fare Tariff 5 zone Mi1 - Mi5 5 zone

GORGONZOLA GORGONZOLA

SESTO MARELLI SESTO MARELLI

PONALE

VILLA SAN GIOVANNI COLOGNO VILLA SAN GIOVANNINORD COLOGNO NORD Greco Bicocca PRECOTTO S7-S8 S9-S11

S9-S11

MARCHE DERGANO MACIACHINI MACIACHINI ZARA

Tariffa / Fare Tariff 6 zone Mi1 - Mi6 6 zone

GESSATE

VILLA POMPEA VILLA POMPEA

ISTRIA

Bovisa Politecnico Bovisa PolitecnicoDERGANO S1-S2-S3-S4 S1-S2-S3-S4

GESSATE

S7-S8 S9-S11 CASCINA ANTONIETTA CASCINA ANTONIETTA

SESTO RONDÒ SESTO RONDÒ

BIGNAMI Parco Nord

BICOCCA BICOCCA Greco AFFORI FN Bicocca S2-S4 CA’ GRANDA CA’ GRANDA S7-S8

ISTRIA AFFORI CENTRO AFFORI CENTRO

Villapizzone Certosa S5-S6 -S11 S5-S6 -S11

SESTO 1° MAGGIO SESTOFS 1° MAGGIO S9-S11 FS

Limite tariffa abbonamenti urbani Limite tariffa abbonamenti urbani Urban passes fare limit Urban passes fare limit

Bruzzano S2-S4

Novate Milanese Novate Milanese RHO Fieramilano

S7-S8

Bresso

Cormano

Bollate

Sesto San Giovanni Sesto San Giovanni

Cinisello Balsamo Cinisello Balsamo

MARCHE ZARA

BUSSERO BUSSERO CASSINA DE’CASSINA PECCHI DE’ PECCHI

Tariffa / Fare Tariff 4 zone Mi1 - Mi44 zone

VILLA FIORITA VILLA FIORITA

Cologno Monzese CERNUSCO S.N. Cologno MonzeseCERNUSCO S.N. PRECOTTO

GORLA

TURRO

COLOGNO CENTRO CASCINA BURRONA COLOGNO CENTRO CASCINA BURRONA COLOGNO SUD VIMODRONE VIMODRONE COLOGNO SUD Vimodrone Vimodrone

Metro automatico per S. Raffaele per S. Raffaele Metro automatico Automatic train toAutomatic S. Raffaeletrain to S. Raffaele CASCINA GOBBA CASCINA GOBBA

Lancetti S1-S2-S5 S6-S12-S13

ISOLA Lancetti S1-S2-S5 S6-S12-S13

ROVERETO

ISOLA

MOLINO DORINO MOLINO DORINO MONUMENTALE GIOIA MONUMENTALE S. LEONARDO S. LEONARDO DOMODOSSOLA FN GERUSALEMME DOMODOSSOLA FN GERUSALEMME

SONDRIO CAIAZZO GIOIA

CRESCENZAGO CRESCENZAGO

ROVERETO

PASTEUR SONDRIO

CIMIANO

PASTEUR

LORETO CAIAZZO

UDINE

LORETO

CIMIANO UDINE

LAMBRATE FS LAMBRATE FS BONOLA S9 CENTRALE PIOLA GARIBALDI FSGARIBALDI S9 CENISIO TRE TORRI PIOLA FS FSCENTRALE FS CENISIO TRE TORRI URUGUAY LIMA LIMA LAMPUGNANOLAMPUGNANO PORTELLO PORTELLO S1-S2-S5-S6 S1-S2-S5-S6 S1-S2-S5 S1-S2-S5 QT8 QT8 MOSCOVA MOSCOVA S11-S12-S13 S11-S12-S13 REPUBBLICA REPUBBLICA P.TA VENEZIAP.TA S6-S12-S13 VENEZIA S6-S12-S13 SAN SIRO LOTTO LOTTO S1-S2-S5 S1-S2-S5 Stadio LANZA SAN SIRO SEGESTA LANZA S6-S12-S13 S6-S12-S13 SAN SIRO SEGESTA TURATI TURATI PALESTRO PALESTRO Dateo Dateo Ippodromo IppodromoAMENDOLA AMENDOLA S1-S2 S1-S2 SAN BABILA SAN BABILA S5-S6 S5-S6 MONTENAPOLEONE MONTENAPOLEONE BUONARROTI BUONARROTI PAGANO CONCILIAZIONE PAGANO CONCILIAZIONE S12-S13 S12-S13 DUOMO DUOMO P. Vittoria P. Vittoria Forlanini Forlanini FN CADORNA FN CADORNA WAGNER WAGNER S1-S2-S5 S1-S2-S5 CAIROLI CAIROLI CORDUSIO CORDUSIO S5-S6-S9 S5-S6-S9 S6-S12-S14 S6-S12-S14 MISSORI MISSORI DE ANGELI DE ANGELI S. AMBROGIO S. AMBROGIO CROCETTA CROCETTA GAMBARA GAMBARA S. AGOSTINO S. AGOSTINO P.TA ROMANAP.TA ROMANA BANDE NERE BANDE NERE P. Romana FS P. Romana FS P.TA GENOVA FS P.TA GENOVA FS S9 LODIS9 TIBB S. Cristoforo LODI TIBB PRIMATICCIO PRIMATICCIO S. Cristoforo BONOLA

URUGUAY

SAN SIRO

Stadio Settimo Milanese Settimo Milanese

Peschiera Borromeo

INGANNI

ROMOLO

Cesano Boscone Cesano Boscone

BRENTA

ASSAGO Milanoﬁori Nord ASSAGO Milanoﬁ ori Nord Buccinasco P.ZA ABBIATEGRASSO P.ZA ABBIATEGRASSO Chiesa Rossa Chiesa Rossa

CORVETTO

PORTO DI MARE PORTO DI MARE ROGOREDO FS ROGOREDO FS

Corsico

ASSAGO ASSAGO Milanoﬁori Forum Milanoﬁori Forum

Corsico

io al Serio rio Airports

Assago

S1-S12-S13

S. DONATO S. DONATO

Rozzano

Opera

Limite Limite tariffa / Fare limit tariffa / Fare limit 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3

S13 tariffa abbonamenti urbani Limite tariffa Limite abbonamenti urbani Urban passes fare limit Urban passes fare limit tariffa / Fare limit Limite tariffa Limite / Fare limit 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3

METROPOLITANA LINEA 4 METROPOLITANA LINEA 4 UNDERGROUND LINE 4 UNDERGROUND LINE 4

GETTING AROUND MILAN ATM - Azienda Trasporti Milanesi – Local Public Transport Company Open daily 7.30am-7.30pm. www.atm.it. T: 02 48607607 (7.30am-7.30pm). Lost and Found on ATM Vehicles: Mon-Fri 8.30am-4pm. Via Friuli, 30. T: 02 88453900. Ordinary ticket (2€) Valid for 90 minutes. Can be used on buses, trams or the metro Day ticket (7€) Valid 24h. Unlimited travel on buses, trams and the metro. Three-day ticket (12€) Valid for 3 consecutive days from the day of the first validation until the end of the service on the third day. Unlimited travel on buses, trams and the metro. Check rates for the extra-urban subway. https://nuovosistematariffario.atm.it/en/ Where to buy your ticket: from all authorized ticket sellers, ATM POINTs (Duomo M1-M3, Centrale M2-M3, Cadorna M1-M2, Garibaldi M2-M5, Loreto M1-M2, Romolo M2). and automatic ticket vendors. 44 W H E R E M I L A N I D E C E M B E R 2020

S1-S12-S13

Limite tariffa abbonamenti urbani Limite tariffa abbonamenti urbani Urban passes fare Urban limit passes fare limit

Opera

Peschiera Borromeo Peschiera Borromeo

San Donato Milanese San Donato Milanese

Courtesy ATM – Updated on 15 July 2019

METROPOLITANA LINEA 1 METROPOLITANA LINEA 1 UNDERGROUND LINE 1 UNDERGROUND LINE 1 METROPOLITANA LINEA 2 METROPOLITANA LINEA 2 UNDERGROUND LINE 2 UNDERGROUND LINE 2 METROPOLITANA LINEA 3 METROPOLITANA LINEA 3 UNDERGROUND LINE 3 UNDERGROUND LINE 3

S5 S6

ROMOLO

FAMAGOSTA FAMAGOSTA Buccinasco

Segrate

BISCEGLIE

Segrate

Limite tariffa / Fare limit 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3

S5 S6

Cusano Milanino

Limite tariffa / Fare limit 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3

S2 S4

Limite tariffa / Fare limit Limite tariffa / Fare limit 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3

UNDERGROUND NETWORK & URBAN RAILWAY SYSTEM

PECCHI

Limite tariffa abbonamenti urbani Urban passes fare limit

OLA

Limite tariffa abbonamenti urbani Urban passes fare limit

ANTONIETTA

Tariffa / Fare Tariffa / Fare 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3 Tariffa / Fare Tariffa / Fare 4 zone Mi1 - Mi4 4 zone Mi1 - Mi4 Tariffa / Fare Tariffa / Fare 5 zone Mi1 - Mi5 5 zone Mi1 - Mi5 Tariffa / Fare Tariffa / Fare 6 zone Mi1 - Mi6 6 zone Mi1 - Mi6

S12 S1S13

S1 S12

Stazione(ascensori) accessibile (ascensori) Stazione accessibile Step-free Step-free station (lifts) station (lifts)

73 perdiAeroporto di Linate Linea 73 perLinea Aeroporto Linate LineAirport 73 to Linate Airport Line 73 to Linate

Stazione(montascale) accessibile (montascale) Stazione accessibile Step-free station (stairlifts) Step-free station (stairlifts)

Bus perdiAeroporto di Linate, Malpensa e Orio al Serio Bus per Aeroporto Linate, Malpensa e Orio al Serio Bus service to Linate, Malpensa and Airports Orio al Serio Airports Bus service to Linate, Malpensa and Orio al Serio

ATM Point: informazioni e punto vendita ATM Point: informazioni e punto vendita ATM Point:and information and sales point ATM Point: information sales point

Malpensa Express Malpensa Express

Lineeregionali ferroviarie regionali Linee ferroviarie Regional railways Regional railways

bus lunga percorrenza Terminal busTerminal lunga percorrenza Long Long distance busdistance terminal bus terminal

con rete ferroviaria InterscambioInterscambio con rete ferroviaria Connection with railway system Connection with railway system

Parcheggio di corrispondenza ATM Parcheggio di corrispondenza ATM ATM car park ATM car park

BIKE SHARING - Public bicycle transport system

to be used for short trips. Available everyday, from 6am to midnight. www.bikemi.com KICK-SCOOTER - The most enjoyable ride

in the city is provided by Wind Mobility, Bit Mobility, Helbiz Italia, Bird, EM Transit, Ride Hive Operations, LMTS Italy, Govolt and Voi Technology. CITYSIGHTSEEING MILANO HOP ON-HOP OFF Hallmark red double-decker bus. 7 days a week, all year around. 48 hours: ticket valid for 4 lines, over 40 stops. 10 language commentary. Prices: Adults (1 day) € 22 - (48 hours) € 25 – (72 hours) € 28 - reduced € 10. Departure: Foro Bonaparte 12, in front of Zani Viaggi/Milan Visitor Center (M1 Cairoli). T: 02 867131. You can join the tour from any stop. Tickets on board, in hotels and authorized agencies or on internet. Purchase your Combo tickets for top attractions on board at special prices. www.zaniviaggi.com Map E4

Tourist Information INFOPOINT - TOURIST OFFICE OF MILAN Piazza Duomo, 14 Multilingual tourist assistance and information; free distribution of maps and brochures. Open Mon-Fri 9am-7pm; Sat-Sun and holidays 10am-1pm. T: 02 88455555 - www.yesmilano.it infotourist@comune.milano.it You can also find tourist information in the brand new office: YESMILANO TOURISM SPACE-CAMERA DI COMMERCIO & COMUNE DI MILANO Palazzo Giureconsulti - Via dei Mercanti 8 A highly-digital environment created to "immerse" visitors into a multi-sensory and technological experience. Open Mon-Fri 9am6.30pm; Sat-Sun and holidays 1.30pm-5.30pm T: 02 85155931 - www.yesmilano.it infotourismspace@mi.camcom.it

Courtesy ATM – Update Courtesy ATM – Updated on 15 July 2019

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREMILAN.COM

Emergency

UNIQUE | FAST TRAINS NETWORK FROM MILAN

• EUROPEAN EMERGENCY NUMBER. 112

112 is the unique European Emergency Number created to provide all European citizens with a single number: Ambulance, Firefighters, Police. • PASSPORTS Questura di Milano, via Fatebenefratelli, 11. T: 02 62261

4h 01m

3h 40m

48m

Street markets (see map pages 46-47) 1. FIERA DI SINIGAGLIA STREET MARKET– The only “flea market” in Milan, it attracts a varied public ranging from collectors to bargain hunters. Saturdays. www.fieradisinigaglia.it Ripa di Porta Ticinese (from via Paoli to via Bersanti)

37m

2. NAVIGLIO GRANDE ANTIQUE MARKET – A “not-to-be-missed” date for collectors the world over. Last Sunday of every month. Naviglio Grande, from the Darsena to the bridge in via Valenza. M2 Porta Genova FS. 3. MERCATINO FILATELICO (STAMPS AND COINS) – A historic market and the third largest in Europe. Open on Sundays and weekdays. Via Armorari, Via Cordusio, Via C. Cantù, Galleria Cordusio. M1 Cordusio, M1- M3 Duomo. 4. VIALE PAPINIANO STREET MARKET – Held twice-weekly, this is Milan’s largest street market. Tuesdays and Saturdays. Viale Papiniano. M2 Sant’Agostino. 5. ANTIQUE AND SECOND-HAND BOOK MARKET – A monthly appointment for booksellers from all over the world. Every second Sunday of the month (excluding the months of July and August). Piazza Diaz. M1-M3 Duomo. 6. CASCINA CUCCAGNA – A 17th century farmhouse in Milan hosting a farmers’ food market. Every Tuesday, from 3.30pm to 8pm. www.cuccagna.org. Via Cuccagna, corner of via Muratori. 7. EAST MARKET – A pure East London-inspired market boasting vintage or second-hand clothes and accessories, as well as street food. Every third Sunday of the month, 10am-9pm. www.eastmarketmilano.com. Via Mecenate, 84 8. MERCATINO ANTIQUARIATO E BROCANTAGE DI BRERA Every third Sunday of the month

in the charming Brera district, from 9am to 6pm. Via Fiori Chiari-via Madonnina – via Formentini. M2 Lanza. 9. VIA FAUCHÉ STREET MARKET– Very appreciated

by the fashionistas. You can find discounted clothes and shoes of the most prestigious Italian stylists. Twice a week, every Tuesday (7.30am-1pm) and Saturday (7.30am-5pm). 10. MERCATO DEL SUFFRAGIO – Municipal market

in corso XXII Marzo. From Tuesday to Saturday (7.30am-11pm) and Sunday (7.30am-4pm).

ITALO - High Speed Rail. Info T: 060708. Italo Assistance

T: 892020. www.italotreno.it TRENORD - Malpensa Express - Regional & Suburban Railway . Info T: 02 72494949. Mon-Sun 7am-9pm. www.trenord.it. The MALPENSA EXPRESS (www.malpensaexpress.it) links the centre of Milan with the intercontinental hub at Malpensa Airport (Terminal 1 & Terminal 2) with 146 trains a day, between 4.27am and 00.20am. 68 trips to and from Milano Centrale (also stopping at Milano Porta Garibaldi) and 78 to and from Milano Cadorna.

Trains

Airports

TRENITALIA - National Railway Company

MILANO MALPENSA (MXP) (45 km from the centre of Milan - A8 direction Varese). Flight and bus info T: 02 232323. www.milanomalpensa-airport.com • Connection to Milano Malpensa Bus > from the Central Station (Stazione Centrale, corner Piazza IV Novembre). Travel time 50’. Air Pullman (www.malpensashuttle.com) Ticket € 10. T: 02 58583185; Terravision

Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com Milan offers fast-track access to major cities across Italy thanks to its high-speed trains. • Turin: 55 min • Bologna: 1 hour • Florence: 1 hour 40 min • Venice: 2 hours 35 min • Rome: 2 hours 55 min • Naples: 4 hours 15 min For more info about the Italy-Switzerland railway connections: www.trenitalia.com or www.ffs.ch.

(www.terravision.eu) € 8; Autostradale (www.autostradale.it) Ticket € 8. T: 02 72001304. Train > from the Central Station (Stazione Centrale). Travel time 50’ ca. It is possible to reach Malpensa also from the Garibaldi FS Station. Ticket € 13. www.trenitalia.com Train > from Cadorna Station. Travel time 40' ca. Trenord (www.malpensaexpress.it). Ticket € 13. (www.trenord.it). T: 02 72494949. MILANO LINATE (LIN) - (6 km from the centre of Milan). Flight information 24h-24h T: 02 232323 (call center). www.milanolinate-airport.com ORIO AL SERIO (BGY) (45 km from the centre of Milan – A4 direction Bergamo). Flights and bus info 24h-24h. T: 035 326323. www.orioaeroporto.it. • Connection to Orio al Serio-Bergamo Bus from the Central Station (Stazione Centrale, corner Piazza Luigi di Savoia). Travel time 60’. Orioshuttle (www.orioshuttle.com). T: 035 330706; Autostradale (www.autostradale.it). T: 035 322915; Terravision (www.terravision.eu) Ticket € 5. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 45

Milano Map CENTRAL MAP at page 26



Malpensa Airport (45km)

Rho Fairgrounds 12

11 San Siro

Stadium

3 14

LEGENDA

SHOPPING AREAS

1 Duomo-Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II 2 Corso Vittorio Emanuele II

3 Via Montenapoleone - Quadrilatero 4 Via Dante

5 Via Torino 6 Brera-Solferino

7 Garibaldi-Corso Como 8 Corso Buenos Aires

9 Corso XXII Marzo 10 Navigli-Porta Ticinese

8 3

6 4

2 1

9 5

ď &#x2018;

Linate City Airport (6 km)

7 11 Vercelli-Belfiore-Marghera 12 CityLife Shopping District

ENTERTAINMENT AREAS

TOP IN TOWN See page 6

LEONARDO DISTRICT

ONLY IN THE ROOMS OF THE BEST HOTELS and online

[ O N LY AT P R E M I E R E H O T E L S ]

Where Milan Magazine

5 STARS DELUXE (L) & 5 STARS Armani Hotel (L) – Via Manzoni, 31 • F4 Baglioni Hotel Carlton Milano – Via Senato, 5 • G4 Bulgari Hotels & Resorts (L) – Via Privata Fratelli Gabba, 7/b • F4 Château Monfort – Corso Concordia, 1 • H4 Excelsior Hotel Gallia (L) – Piazza Duca d'Aosta, 9 • G2 Fifty House – Via B. Cellini, 14 • H5 Fifty House Soho – Via E. Cornalia, 7 • G2 Four Seasons Hotel Milano (L) – Via Gesù, 6/8 • G4 Galleria Vik Milano (L) – Via S. Pellico, 8 • F5 Grand Hotel et de Milan (L) – Via A. Manzoni, 29 • F4 Magna Pars Suites – Via Forcella, 6 • D6 Mandarin Oriental Milan – Via Andegari, 9 • F4 ME Milan Il Duca (L) – Piazza della Repubblica, 13 • G2 Meliá – Via Masaccio, 19 • B2 NH Collection Milano President – Largo Augusto, 10 • G5 Palazzo Parigi (L) – Corso di Porta Nuova, 1 • F2 Park Hyatt (L) – Via T. Grossi, 1 • F4 Pierre – Via De Amicis, 32 • E5 Principe di Savoia (L) – Piazza della Repubblica, 17• G2 SINA The Gray – Via San Raffaele, 6 • F4 Style – Via delle Erbe • E3 The Westin Palace (L) – Piazza della Repubblica, 20 • G2 TownHouse Duomo (L) – Via S. Pellico, 2 • F5 Viu Milan – Via Fioravanti, 6 • E2

4 STARS & LUXURY RESIDENCES AC Hotel Milano by Marriott – Via E. Tazzoli, 2 • E1 Acca Palace – Via G. Nicotera, 9 • OFF MAP Accursio – Viale Certosa, 88 • OFF MAP Admiral – Via Domodossola, 16 • C2 Andreola Central – Via D. Scarlatti, 24 • H2 Antares Accademia – Viale Certosa, 68 • OFF MAP Antares Rubens – Via P. P. Rubens, 21 • A4 Antica Locanda dei Mercanti – Via San Tomaso, 6 • F4 Arcimboldi – Viale Sarca, 336 • OFF MAP AS Cambiago – Viale delle Industrie - Cambiago (MI) • OFF MAP AS Hotel dei Giovi – Via Manzoni, 99 - Cesano Maderno (MB) • OFF MAP AS Limbiate Fiera – Corso Como, 52 - Limbiate (MB) • OFF MAP AS Monza – Viale Lombardia, 76/78 – Monza (MB) • OFF MAP AS Sempione Fiera – S.S. del Sempione, 320 – San Vittore Olona (MI) • OFF MAP Ascot – Via Lentasio, 3 • F5 Auriga – Via G.B. Pirelli, 7 • G2 Barceló Milan – Via Stephenson, 55 • OFF MAP Baviera Mokinba – Via P. Castaldi, 7 • G3 Berna – Via N. Torriani, 18 • G2 Best Western Antares Concorde – Viale Monza, 132 • OFF MAP Best Western Astoria – Viale Murillo, 9 • A3 Best Western Goldenmile Milan – Viale Cristoforo Colombo, 33 • D6 Best Western Madison – Via L. Gasparotto, 8 • G1 Best Western Major – Viale Isonzo, 2 • MAP H7 Best Western Mirage – Viale Certosa, 104/106 • OFF MAP Best Western Plus Felice Casati – Via F. Casati, 18 • G2 Best Western Plus Hotel Galles – Piazza Lima, 2 • H2 Best Western St. George – Viale Tunisia, 9 • H3 Bianca Maria Palace Hotel – Viale Bianca Maria, 4 • H5 Bristol – Via D. Scarlatti, 32 • H2 Brunelleschi – Via F. Baracchini, 12 • F5 c-hotels Atlantic – Via N. Torriani, 24 • G2 Ca' Bianca Hotel Corte del Naviglio –Via Lodovico il Moro, 117 • OFF MAP Camperio House Suite & Apartments – Via M. Camperio, 9 • E4 Capitol World Class – Via D. Cimarosa, 6 • C4 Carlyle Brera – Corso G. Garibaldi, 84 • E3 Carrobbio – Via Medici, 3 • E5 Cavour – Via Fatebenefratelli, 21 • F3 Citylife Hotel Poliziano – Via A. Poliziano, 11 • D2 Colombia – Via R. Lepetit, 15 • G2 Corvetto Residence – Via Osimo, 10 • OFF MAP Crivi’s – Corso di Porta Vigentina, 46 • G6 Crowne Plaza Milan City – Via M. Gioia, 73 • G1

Da Vinci Milano – Via Senigallia, 6 • OFF MAP De la Ville – Viale Regina Margherita di Savoia, 15 - Monza (MI) • OFF MAP Del Corso – Via G. Pecchio, 2 • I1 Domina Milano Fiera Hotel & Congress – Via G. di Vittorio, 66 – Novate Milanese (MI) • OFF MAP Doria Grand Hotel – Via A. Doria, 22 • H1 Double Tree by Hilton – Via Ludovico di Breme, 77 • OFF MAP Enterprise – Corso Sempione, 91 • C1 First Hotel Malpensa – Via Baracca, 34 - Case Nuove (Somma Lombardo) Malpensa Airport• OFF MAP Four Points by Sheraton Milan Center – Via G. Cardano, 1 • G1 Galileo – Corso Europa, 9 • G4 Glam Hotel – Piazza Duca d’Aosta, 4/6 • G2 Grand Hotel Barone Di Sassj – Via V. Padovani, 38 - Sesto San Giovanni (MI) • OFF MAP Grand Visconti Palace – Viale Isonzo, 14 • H7 H2C Milanofiori – Via R. Bartolomea, 5 - Assago (MI) • OFF MAP Hilton – Via L. Galvani, 12• G1 Hilton Garden Inn Milan North – Via Columella, 36 • OFF MAP Holiday Inn Garibaldi – Via U. Bassi, 1/A • F1 Hotel dei Cavalieri – Piazza Missori, 1 • F5 Hyatt Centric Milano Centrale – Via G.B. Pirelli, 20 • MAP G1 IH ApartHotel Milano Argonne Park – Via E. Paladini, 7 – MAP L4 IH Hotels Lorenteggio – Via Lorenteggio, 278 • OFF MAP IH Hotels Milano Ambasciatori – Galleria Del Corso, 3 • G4 IH Hotels Milano Gioia – Via della Giustizia, 10/d • OFF MAP IH Hotels Milano Watt 13 – Via G. Watt, 13 • MAP B7 IH Hotels Residence Argonne Park – Via E. Paladini, 7 • OFF MAP Il Castelletto – Via dell’Ecologia, 7/9 – Casarile (MI) • OFF MAP International Residence – Via G. Modena, 4 • H4 Just – Via N. Torriani, 29 • MAP G2 J24 – Viale Jenner, 24 • OFF MAP King Mokinba – Corso Magenta, 19 • D4 Klima – Via Venezia Giulia, 8 • OFF MAP Lancaster – Via A. Sangiorgio, 16 • D3 Leonardo Hotel Milan City Center – Via Messina, 10 • E2 LHP Napoleon – Via F. Ozanam 12 • H2 Lloyd – Corso di Porta Romana, 48 • F5 M89 – Via Mecenate, 89 • OFF MAP Maison Borella – Alzaia Naviglio Grande, 8 • E6 Maison Milano | UNA Esperienze – Via G. Mazzini, 4 • F5 Manin – Via Manin, 7 • G3 Manzoni – Via Santo Spirito, 20 • G4 Marriott – Via G. Washington, 66 • B5 Matilde Boutique Hotel – Via Spadari, 1 • F5 Mediolanum – Via M. Macchi, 1 • G2 Mercure Milano Centro – Piazza G. Oberdan, 12 • H3 Mercure Milano Regency – Via G. Arimondi, 12 • C1 Metrò – Corso Vercelli, 61 • C4 Michelangelo – Piazza Luigi di Savoia, 6 • H1 MiHotel – Via dei Fontanili, 56 • OFF MAP Milan Suite Hotel – Via Varesina, 124 • OFF MAP Milano Castello – Via San Tomaso, 2 • MAP F4 Milano Palmanova – Via Palmanova, 153 • OFF MAP Milano Scala – Via dell’Orso, 7 • F4 Mini Hotel La Spezia – Via Spezia, 25 • OFF MAP Mini Hotel Portello – Via G. Silva, 12 • B2 Mini Hotel Tiziano – Via Tiziano, 6 • C4 Monforte 27 – Corso Monforte, 27 • G4 Montebianco Mokinba – Via Monte Rosa, 90 • A2 Montenapoleone Suites – Via Santa Cecilia, 4 • G4 Mozart – Piazza Gerusalemme, 6 • D2 My Bed Montenapoleone – Piazza San Babila, 3 • Map G4 My Bed – Corso di Porta Ticinese, 24 • Map E5 Mythos – Via C. Tenca, 21 • Map G2 NH Collection Milano Porta Nuova – Via M. Gioia, 6 • F2 NH Hotel Milano Fiera – Viale degli Alberghi - Rho (Milano) • OFF MAP NH Milano Concordia – Via Lama, 10 - Sesto San Giovanni (MI) • OFF MAP NH Milano Linate – Via A.Grandi, 12 – Peschiera Borromeo (MI) • OFF MAP NH Milano Machiavelli – Via Lazzaretto, 5 • G3 NH Milano Congress Centre – 2a Strada – Assago (MI) • OFF MAP

Where Milan n 122 December 2020

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