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OUR FIRST ISSUE IN THE CITY
NOVEMBER 2018
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the guide
B R E N TATO R E
30 FOOD&WINE
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V I A PA O LO
DELL A SALU TE
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Four starred restaurants offering a triumph of flavours, aromas and untold creativity. NA
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The best fashion designers for your high-end shopping.
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Several of the best shopping destinations not far from Turin.
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A blend of 19th century décor and contemporary artworks reflect the spirit of Del Cambio, an institution for food connoisseurs
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The secret of Piedmontese CAMPIDOGLIO chocolate is a cocoa and hazelnut paste, a combination resulting in the creation of gianduiotti, cremini, bicerin and even Nutella! Chiesa Madonna Divina Provvidenza
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This month’s round-up of art exhibitions, music and folklore.
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SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS
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Enjoy the city, starting from its main landmark attractions.
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NOVEMBER 2018
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Alberto Marchetti’s philosophy of authentic Italian gelato is based on artisanship and authenticity, with an almost maniacal attention to raw materials
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Located in the elegant via Battisti, Culti House offers unique fragrances and a timeless design CORSO ALESSANDRIA
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Museo di Mineralogia Giorgio Spezia San
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EDITORIAL Welcome to Turin
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M A G A Z I N E
HIGH-QUALITY ITALIAN EXPERIENCE If you are reading this magazine, you are very likely to be a “High-Quality Traveler”. This is because you are using quality tourist information to guide you on your stay in Milan. This is because Where® is only found in the best luxury hotels in the major cities of the world. Your hotel is sure to be part of this restricted group of hotels. Just as you are part of a restricted group of travelers who stand out from the crowd. Who seek the best from every journey they make. And who usually have limited time available to get the best out of their trip. Two, three nights per destination. And the high-quality traveler wants to be sure of getting the most out of this short period of time. Andrea Jarach Publisher Where ® Italia
That’s why friends are needed in every location. To replace or back up a reliable source of tourist information. Where to go, what to see, where and what to eat, what shows and exhibitions are on, what museums to see in the short time available, and what you can find close to the city to enable you to understand Italy better. Where® was created for this very purpose (no less than 82 years ago!); still today, further enhanced by its digital editions, it remains the complete and reliable information source preferred by High-Quality Travelers. In Italy we are talking about approximately 12 million travelers each year, around 20% of the total. Some of these High-Quality Travelers spend more than €1,000 a day in this country, a huge market for those who are able to interpret their tastes and requirements. We have been doing this for almost a century now. Rely on us. For a high-quality Italian experience.
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Via Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano. T: 02 349951 - Fax 02 33107015 info@whereitalia.com www.whereitalia.com/turin PUBLISHER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Andrea Jarach (andrea.jarach@whereitalia.com) EDITORIAL (PROEDI MEDIA GROUP) MANAGING DIRECTOR Daniele Misrachi (daniele.misrachi@whereitalia.com) MANAGING EDITOR Alessandra Finzi (redazione@whereitalia.com) MAGAZINE EDITORIAL STAFF Amal Angelotti, Carey Bernitz, Sophia Bertoli, Elena Binda, Simona P.K. Daviddi, Livia Fioravanti, Giulia Minero, Jasmine Piazza, Stefania Vida, Chiara Zaccarelli ART DIRECTION Floriana di Maio DESIGNERS Elisabetta Giudici, Joy Lacanlale WEB EDITORIAL STAFF Chiara Fonzi (redazione@whereitalia.com), Fabio Lancini (art direction) ICONOGRAPHY Archivio Where® Italia, Milano Panoramica, Shutterstock CARTOGRAPHY Compass Maps Ltd. (UK). City Map © Where®Italia srl. 2018 - Original Map by Urban File - www.urbanfile.org Fast Trains Network Map © Dmitry Goloub – Where®Italia srl 2018 MARKETING & ADVERTISING Sieva Carolo, Isa Faleschini, Marta Mailhac, Rachele Renna, Paola Zannoni (advertising@whereitalia.com) ADMINISTRATION Katia Greto (amministrazione@whereitalia.com) PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION, SALES SUPPORT MANAGER Paola Grilli
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[ SIGHTSEEING]
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MOLE ANTONELLIANA A landmark building of Turin since 1889, it was purchased by the municipality who decided to make it a monument to Italian unification. Standing at a height of 167.5m, at the time of its construction it was the highest brick building in Europe. Built in an eclectic style, the Mole has a squat square base topped by a large dome with a spire. You can ascend to the panoramic observation platform either by elevator or on foot by climbing its 573 steps. Since 2000, it has hosted the National Museum of Cinema. 1 MUSEO EGIZIO Founded in 1824, Turin’s Egyptian Museum is the oldest Egyptian museum in the world and the second in terms of the value and quality of its treasures outside of Cairo. In 2006, during Turin’s Winter Olympics, the museum was re-modelled by Oscar-winning set designer Dante Ferretti. It houses more than 37,000 6 W H E R E T U R I N I N O V E M B E R 2018
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artifacts, from the Paleolithic to the Coptic era. The archaeologist and Egyptologist JeanFrançois Champollion once said: ‘the road to Memphis and Thebes passes through Turin’. 2
headquarters of the first Subalpine Senate. Its name refers to ‘Madame Royale’ Christine of France, who took up residence here in 1600. The view of the city from the Panoramic Tower is spectacular. 4
MUSEI REALI The residence of the Savoys until 1865, it is now owned by the Italian government. The museum tour comprises a 3km route spread over 30,000 sq.m. and 7 hectares of Royal Gardens. In 1563, Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy moved the capital of the duchy from Chambéry to Turin, marking the beginning of a major urban transformation and the enrichment of the dynastic collections, which now include artifacts from the prehistoric era to the present time. 3
PARCO DEL VALENTINO Located on the banks of the Po River, and spread over 550,000 sq.m., this is the city’s most popular park. Its interior houses numerous treasures including the Castello del Valentino, a UNESCO world heritage site and a part of the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont, the Medieval Village and Castle, and the Botanical Gardens (1729). 5
PALAZZO MADAMA Situated in the centre of piazza Castello, it has always been a reference point in the city, from Roman times to 1848, when it became the
VILLA DELLA REGINA The summer country residence of the House of Savoy, it was built at the beginning of the 17th century as a court vineyard. It became known as Villa della Regina (literally the Queen’s Villa) when
MORE AT PAGE 40 MAP PAGES 46-47 factory (now FCA), still symbolizes the wealth of the city. Reconverted by Renzo Piano in the 1980s, it hosts events and the famous rooftop test track. The old Carpano plants, lying adjacent to the Lingotto complex, are now occupied by ‘Eataly’s’ vast food market. 10
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MUSEO NAZIONALE DELL’AUTOMOBILE The Car Museum (MAUTO) was opened in 1960 and is one of the oldest car museums in the world. The semi-circular building overlooking the River Po acts as a prelude to the three floors of the collection featuring a spectacular layout designed by François Confinio, who also designed the exhibition space of the Museum of Cinema. 11 14
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ALLIANZ JUVENTUS STADIUM Designed to host up to 41,507 spectators, this is the sixth largest stadium in Italy. It is owned by the Juventus Football Club whose home matches have been played here since 2011. An architectural symbol, it is one of the most avantgarde facilities in the world. The J-Museum, the official football museum of the ‘bianconero’ team is hosted inside the stadium. 12
King Vittorio Amedeo II gifted it to his future bride in 1714. Don’t miss a visit to this magnificent residence, distinguished by the remains of its original 18th century decorations and furnishings, and its Italianate gardens. Villa della Regina is a part of the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont, a UNESCO world heritage site. 6 TEATRO REGIO The Regio is one of the most important Italian theatres on the European scene, offering an action-packed program of opera and ballet. It was designed by Filippo Juvarra and inaugurated in 1740. Destroyed by a fire in 1936, and rebuilt in 1973 by Turinese architect Carlo Mollino, the only part of the original building that still remains is its façade, now a UNESCO world heritage site. Its unusual gate, named ‘Odissea Musicale’ (Musical Odyssey) is by Umberto Mastroianni. 7
BASILICA DI SUPERGA Situated on the hills surrounding Turin, it offers a breathtaking view. It was built as a thanksgiving to the Virgin Mary for Turin’s deliverance from the French siege (1706) and designed by Filippo Juvarra. One of the most picturesque ways of accessing it is by the Rack Tramway, which rattles the 3km up the hillside. 13
VIA PO PROMENADE A stroll beneath the typical Torinese porticoes in via Po, packed with shops and cafés, is an absolute must. From here, you can access Piazza Vittorio Veneto, the largest square in the city. The square ends at the Vittorio Emanuele I bridge, which connects it to the square of the church of the Gran Madre di Dio (1830), renowned for its imposing pantheon-like shape. 8 PIAZZA SAN CARLO Also known as ‘the drawing room’ of the city, it was commissioned by Marie Christine of France in true Parisian style with seemingly endless porticoes housing fashion boutiques, and an equestrian statue - the ‘Caval d’Brons’ – of Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy at its centre. 9 LINGOTTO This complex of buildings built in 1916, based on a project by Matté Trucco to house the FIAT
REGGIA DI VENARIA Located inside the Park of La Mandria, this is a Baroque-style complex built in the mid-17th century as a glorified hunting lodge for Carlo Emanuele II. Particularly worthy of note are the Grand Gallery, the Chapel of St. Hubert, the Galleria di Diana, the 18th century Scuderie Juvarrine and the Citroniera, now used to host events. It is a part of the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont. 14 PALAZZINA DI CACCIA DI STUPINIGI Built in Baroque style in 1729, and only 10km from Piazza Castello, with its French garden, Stupinigi was the royal family’s favourite place for celebrations and events. At the beginning of the 20th century, Queen Margherita of Savoy took up permanent residence here. In 1919, Stupinigi became the headquarters of the Furniture Museum. It is a part of the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont, a UNESCO world heritage site. 15 w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 7
ANTOON VAN DYCK, MARCHESA ELENA GRIMALDI CATTANEO (1623). NATIONAL GALLERY OF ART, WASHINGTON - WIDENER COLLECTION.
WHERE NOW | HOT DATES
NOVEMBER
HOT DATES Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating Italian traditions, art and music or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates.
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EXHIBITION
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NOVEMBER 2018
MARCH 2019
NOBLE PORTRAITS A unique exhibition dedicated to Antoon van Dyck (Antwerp 1599-London 1541) is currently on exhibit at the Palatine Rooms of the Galleria Sabauda. Van Dyck, Ruben’s most famous student, revolutionized the art of portraiture in the 17th century. The official painter of the greatest courts of Europe, an internationally acclaimed figure and an amiable conversationalist with a refined style, Van Dyck portrayed princes, queens, patricians, noblewomen and members of the era’s most prestigious families. Divided into four sections, the exhibition features more than 50 works exploring Van Dyck’s exclusive relationship with several influential courts for which he painted numerous portraits, unique masterpieces renowned for their visual impact, chromatic quality and elegance.
ANTOON VAN DYCK, IL PRINCIPE TOMMASO DI SAVOIA CARIGNANO (1635). GALLERIA SABAUDA - MANICA NUOVA DI PALAZZO REALE, TORINO .
VAN DYCK. PITTORE DI CORTE Musei Reali di Torino-Galleria Sabauda. Piazzetta Reale, 1. www.museireali.beniculturali.it
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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES
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“TIME IS ON OUR SIDE”
▼ The leitmotiv of the 25th edition of Artissima, Italy’s most important contemporary art fair, is time (‘Time is on our side’) intended as a dynamic flow, NOVEMBER capable of setting the pace of change. NOVEMBER Due to the quality of its offerings and its focus on experimentation, Artissima is one of the most eagerly anticipated events on the international art scene, intended as a launch pad for emerging artists and galleries. Thanks to its collaboration with numerous public institutions, museums, foundations and galleries, during the fair days, Turin is transformed into a giant happening, with myriad, city-wide events.
COURTESY ARTERICAMBI, VERONA
COURTESY GALLERIA ENRICO ASTUNI. PHOTO: MICHELE SERENI
ARTISSIMA Contemporary International Art Fair Oval-Lingotto Fiere. Via Giacomo Mattè Trucco, 70. www.artissima.art
COURTESY OTTO GALLERY AND THE ARTIST. PHOTO: MICHELE SERENI
ART FAIR
TOP IN TOWN
LUCI D’ARTISTA 2018/2019 Several locations 10 W H E R E T U R I N I N O V E M B E R 2018
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CITY LIGHTS
► November is the month of contemporary art in Turin and, for the past 21 years, it has kicked off with ‘Luci d’Artista’, a light art show featuring exquisite luminous JANUARY OCTOBER artworks that, like an open-air art 2019 2018 gallery, light up numerous squares and streets throughout the city. As dusk falls (from 8pm onwards), take a stroll and look upwards to admire installations, known and loved by the Torinese, like Daniel Buren’s ‘Flying Carpet’ in piazza Palazzo di Città, Michelangelo Pistoletto’s ‘Love Difference’ and Mario Merz’s ‘The Flight of Numbers’ which this year will once again illuminate the dome of the Mole Antonelliana with the Fibonacci’s sequence.
©TOSHI SAKURAI, COURTESY CHICK COREA PROD.
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JAZZ
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MUSIC AT A FORMER RAIL REPAIR WORKSHOP
►Renowned international jazz stars Jason Moran and Chick Corea are set to perform at the landmark spaces of the OGR-Officine Grandi Riparazioni, NOVEMBER NOVEMBER a majestic late 19th century industrial complex located in the heart of Turin. Moran, an American pianist, was described by Rolling Stone as “the most provocative thinker of current jazz”. Chick Corea – an American composer and pianist of Italian origin – has attained iconic status in music. From straight ahead to avant-garde, bebop to fusion, children’s songs to chamber music, Chick has touched an astonishing number of musical bases in his illustrious career while maintaining a standard of excellence that is awe-inspiring.
JASON MORAN / CHICK COREA Jason Moran > 7 November - Chick Corea > 9 November OGR-Officine Grandi Riparazioni. Corso Castelfidardo, 22. www.ogrtorino.it
TATTOO
Chick Corea
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SOCIAL PRACTICES IN ART
ARTIST: SIMONE FUGAZZOTTO
◄ Contemporary artists, ink masters and tattooed individuals, artworks and figures of the past come NOVEMBER MARCH together in a suggestive journey 2018 2019 that explores the social, cultural and artistic use of body art. This must-see exhibition at MAO encompasses the entire tattoo universe including tools from Asia and Australia, historic photos of 19th century Japan and New Zealand’s Maoris, prints by wellknown Japanese artist Kuniyoshi Utagawa who published a print series in 1827 that became an iconographic reference for tattoos, plus drawings and objects from the Cesare Lombroso Museum of Criminal Anthropology and Turin’s Museum of Anatomy. The exhibition ends with the protagonists of contemporary art who use tattoos as a form of self-expression.
TATTOO. BODY ART MAO Museo d’Arte Orientale Via San Domenico, 11. www.maotorino.it
OUT OF TOWN
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THE MAGICAL WORLD OF CHAGALL
CHAGALL. COLOUR AND MAGIC Palazzo Mazzetti. Corso Vittorio Alfieri, 357 (Asti, 50 km from Turin). www.palazzomazzetti.eu
© CHAGALL®, BY SIAE 2018
► The dreamlike imagery of Marc Chagall – one of the key figures of 20th century art – is currently on show in Asti, in the beautiful region of the Langhe. Housed in FEBRUARY SEPTEMBER the elegant spaces of Palazzo Mazzetti, the exhibition 2019 2018 features 150 drawings and paintings by the artist, many of which are on loan from private collections. The works on display explore his artistic vision and oneiric universe, a combination of childhood memories, fairytales, poetry, religion and war. The exhibition is divided into seven thematic sections, highlighting the various stages in his artistic development, from his early works in the 1920s, to his dramatic escape from Europe during the Second World War, right up to his last years in the United States.
Marc Chagall, Le Coq Violet, (1966-1972) w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 11
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Gianduia is the name The secret of Piedmontese chocolate is a cocoa and hazelnut paste, a combination resulting in the creation of giandiuotti, cremini, bicerin and even Nutella. Whether you bite, spread or drink it, in Turin, this ‘food of the gods’ is an institution. For this reason, in November the city welcomes CioccolaTo, the most tantalizing event of the year. BY ELENA BINDA
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Elena Binda Lifestyle Editor Where ® Italia
O
nce upon a time there was a cruel king. He forbade people to eat something sweet that they loved. However, two enterprising artisans found a way to replicate this confection which turned out to be even better than the original. This happened mid-19th century, and the king was Napoleon I of France. His edict, known as the ‘Continental Blockade’, prohibited all commerce, trade and communication with the British Isles, severely limiting cocoa imports to Italy. It was then that two confectioners, named Caffarel and Prochet, decided to try out a new paste. They used ground hazelnuts, which grew in abundance in Piedmont, to stretch the little amount of cocoa available, to create something new: individually wrapped chocolates, shaped to resemble overturned boats. To promote them, they used the ancient tradition of distributing candies on the street during carnival festivities. The traditional mask of Turin was Gianduja, so these new candies were called gianduiotti (little gianduja), while gianduia became Turin’s famous chocolate-hazelnut spread. It was so popular that it became the signature ingredient of Piedmontese chocolate and was later exported throughout the world. The real story of the birth of the ‘gianduiotto’ has legendary connotations. This symbolic chocolate of Turin can still be savoured in the delicious, artisanal hand-extruded version at various places across the city. The chocolate-hazelnut combination has become so well known in Piedmont that it is used as the basis for a number of traditional products. These include the ‘cremino’ (an exquisite squareshaped praline comprising three layers of different chocolate), the ‘nocciolato’ (a chocolate bar containing whole roasted hazelnuts), the ‘bicerin’ (a mixture of coffee, chocolate and cream served layered in a small rounded glass) and Nutella. This creamy spread, which has become a culinary icon worldwide, was invented in Piedmont, from the same marriage of chocolate and Piedmont hazelnuts. ILLUSTRIOUS NAMES AND SWEET STORIES Turin has its own chocolate kings: contemporary masters who make the tradition vibrant and current. Guido Gobino, the son of a chocolate maker who started working in the business in the 50’s, is currently one of the world’s best-known, award-winning chocolatiers. In Japan, in the period leading up to Valentine’s Day, Gobino is often
Giandujotto by Guido Gobino.
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WHERE NOW | FOCUS The ‘Grappino’ by Peyrano a guest of honour at the department stores selling his chocolate. While there, he is often asked to sign hundreds of boxes of his limited edition artisanal chocolate. His celebrity status is no surprise, given that, over the years, he has won numerous awards including the London Academy of Chocolate’s ‘best praline in the world’ award, the Compagnia del Cioccolato’s ‘Tavoletta d’Oro’ (golden bar) award for his gianduia bar containing over 39% IGP-certified Piedmont hazelnuts, and a bronze medal from the Academy of Chocolate for his hot chocolate. Another big name in the chocolate industry is the Peyrano family, a ‘chocolate house’ that has delighted the palates of the Torinese, including members of the Savoy family, since 1915. Their gianduiotti are classic, their ‘Grappino’ iconic, and their history romantic. In 1962, Giorgio Peyrano invited Bruna, a young girl who had caught Gift box by Baratti & Milano
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his fancy, to visit his workshop. As a gift, Bruna bought him a bottle of grappa from her father. To thank him, and possibly to make a good impression, the young Peyrano set to work and created a dark chocolate praline filled with a drop of grappa which instantly became a big hit. It is probably the chocolatier’s most successful creation and was the precursor of the numerous liqueur-filled chocolates that continue to delight the palates of chocolate connoisseurs today. And what about Gustavo Pfatisch? The story of this master chef of Bavarian origin is inextricably linked to the history of the city. Pfatisch was born in Piedmont in 1887 and moved to Turin, where he opened a pastry shop which soon became a landmark destination. Reminiscent of the chocolate factory of Willy Wonka (the main character in Roald Dahl’s novel ‘Charlie and the Chocolate Factory’ and the film by Tim Burton starring Johnny Depp), his beautifully preserved historic workshop has often been used as a set for Italian films and TV series. The list of master confectioners associated with the addresses of ancient, illustrious venues where you can savour authentic Piedmontese chocolate is lengthy. These include the chocolate shop of Guido Castagna, Baratti & Milano, a historic café and confectioner which has overlooked piazza Castello since 1858, and Il Bicerin, an
iconic locale established in Turin in 1763 which gave birth to the city’s signature drink (for more information see our Food&Wine section). However, if you happen to be visiting Turin this month, you’ll have a unique opportunity to see the city transformed into one large chocolate shop! CIOCCOLATO, THE TASTIEST EVENT OF THE YEAR This month Turin pays tribute to its age-old chocolate-making tradition with CioccolaTo 2018, an action-packed event that transforms the centre of the city into an open-air confectioner’s workshop. There will be more than 100 educational workshops, conventions, performances and many other forms of entertainment, including demos by some of the finest master chocolatiers in the streets of the centre, plus loads of delicious artisanal chocolate just waiting to be tasted, purchased and discovered. Two ‘chocolate factories’ will be set up in piazza San Carlo. One, named ‘bean-tobar’, will demonstrate the chocolate production cycle, while the second will pay tribute to the city of Turin with the on-site production of the famous Turinese gianduiotto, from hazelnuts to the finished product. The event will also feature competitions between chefs and celebrities who’ve been invited to submit their best ideas for chocolate desserts to the judges. The festival is open daily from 9 to 18 November from 10am to 6pm. Access is free of charge and the event takes place in piazza San Carlo and surrounding areas.
Confetteria Pasicceria Pfatisch
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GIFT
GUIDE
LA PERLA ► A perfect accompaniment to a Bicerin, ‘baci di dama’ are two dome-shaped biscuits sandwiched together with a layer of chocolate. La Perla interprets them in their three most classic versions, with an almond, hazelnut or cocoa-based dough. www.laperladitorino.it
If you’re passionate about chocolate, can’t do without those delicious cocoa and hazelnut recipes and want to find out what makes Torinese chocolates so special, we have good news for you! In addition to several indispensable utensils to make this ‘food of the gods’ at home, Where ® Turin has selected a pick of delectable, must-try local specialties.
Giulia Minero Lifestyle & News Editor Where ® Italia
◄ DISTILLERIE VINCENZI Featuring a skillful blend of chocolate, alcohol and hazelnuts, Vincenzi’s ‘Bicerin di Gianduiotto’ conjures up the flavour of traditional ‘gianduiotti’ chocolates. Ideal as an accompaniment to traditional Piedmontese desserts like ‘Bunet’ or as a post-prandial treat. www.distillerievincenzi.com
◄ SICCARDI Featuring an integrated ‘Thermo Shock’ thermometer (resistant up to 160°C), this silicone spatula is ideal to make your favourite hot chocolate – but also custards, jams and meringues – to exactly the right temperature. www.siccardi.it
GUIDO CASTAGNA ▼ These ‘Speziati’ (spicy chocolates) are the result of a re-visitation of the classic ‘cremino’ recipe with the addition of ingredients like flowers and spices. Boasting 4 different flavours, including cardamom-mallow, paprika-pink pepper, cinnamon–calendula and ginger, these delectable pralines are available in a 16-piece box or in assortment with classic Cremini. www.guidocastagna.it
◄ VILLEROY & BOCH An integral part of the Bicerin’s appeal is the rounded glass in which it’s served. The transparent, double-wall structure of ‘Coffee Passion’ allows you to admire the pretty layering of this chocolate drink, while its saucer is designed to hold traditional ‘bagnati’, Piedmont’s renowned ’dunking biscuits’. www.villeroy-boch.it w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 15
© PIXELSHOP/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
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Autumn in Piedmont Avant-garde wineries, a legacy of world-class cuisine and marvelous landscapes. All of these things have earned the areas of the Langhe, Roero and Monferrato UNESCO World Heritage status, resulting in an elite tourist destination. By Chiara Zaccarelli Chiara Zaccarelli Travel Editor Where ® Italia
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his is UNESCO’s official reason for adding the wine-growing regions of the LangheRoero and Monferrato to its world heritage list in 2014. “An exceptional living testimony to the historical tradition of grape growing and winemaking processes, of a social context, and a rural economy based on viticulture. The vineyards of the Langhe-Roero and Monferrato are an outstanding example of man’s interaction with his natural surroundings.” This area is protected as a ‘cultural heritage’ which is symbolic, because man has managed to shape it, giving it the unique characteristics that it boasts today. In this area, the vineyards of several of the world’s most famous wines, including Barolo, Barbaresco, Asti Spumante and Barbera, stretch as far as the eye can see, in a display
The Langhe’s rolling hills
of changing colours and softly rolling hills. Although geographically the Langhe, Roero and Monferrato are neighbouring regions, they all have different morphologies, and cultural characteristics. If you’re lucky enough to visit them in autumn, you’ll be able to enjoy their numerous offerings. The region’s varied landscape provides fertile soil for an impressive array of local specialties: from superlative wine, to the prized white truffles of Alba, porcini mushrooms and IGP hazelnuts. Located just an hour’s drive from Turin, these regions can be accessed by car (several of the larger centres can also be reached by train). Other options include one of the many organized wine and tasting tours on offer. Ask your concierge. THE LANGHE The Langhe are situated between the Tanaro River and Liguria, between the provinces of
© ROSTISLAV GLINSKY/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
The Castle of Serralunga d’Alba Asti and Cuneo. Particularly noteworthy among the area’s many tourist attractions are its numerous castles, including that of Grinzane Cavour. Built in the 13th century and currently home to the headquarters of the ‘Cavour Regional Enoteca’, the castle, in addition to stocking several of the region’s finest Doc and Docg wines, also hosts the interesting Langhe Museum (www.castellogrinzane.com). Other must-sees include the Castle of Barolo and its surrounding town, which gives its name to
the most famous Italian red wine and is thought to date back to mediaeval times. The town is home to WiMu, a unique wine museum that takes visitors on an immersive journey through the history of viticulture via light, film and installations. The museum is set over three floors of the village’s stunning medieval castle, and the tour includes a visit to the building’s panoramic terrace and its ancient wine cellars (www.wimubarolo.it). After visiting the museum in Barolo, stop in the village of La Morra, better
known as ‘the terrace of the Langhe’ thanks to its spectacular views, and head to Massimo Camia’s starred restaurant for a fabulous gourmet meal (www.massimocamia.it). In addition to other specialties, the area is renowned for its famous three-lobed hazelnut, boasting ‘Protected Geographical Indication’ status and used to make various sweet treats. If you want to purchase these tantalizing specialties and see how they’re made, visit Giovanni Cogno’s artisanal workshop (www.giovannicogno.it).
Where Nutella was born Everyone knows Nutella – the world’s best-loved chocolate spread - but not everyone knows that it was invented in Alba in the Piedmont region. Because chocolate was rationed after the end of World War II, a pastry chef from Alba named Pietro Ferrero had the ingenious idea of creating a sweet paste made with hazelnuts (which were plentiful in the region), sugar and the little chocolate powder that was available. Ferrero’s creation began life as a solid block called pasta gianduja, which could be sliced and served on bread. A few years later, it was transformed into a creamy, spreadable treat called SuperCrema, the forerunner of our Nutella. It was only in 1963 that Michele Ferrero, Pietro’s son, coined the word Nutella (a combination of the English word ‘nut’ and the Latina suffix for sweet - ‘ella’). The first, universally recognizable glass jar with the white lid, which has remained unchanged to this day, was produced by Ferrero in 1964 and immediately became an instant hit worldwide. And in just a few years, Nutella had become an iconic food, loved by millions of consumers across the globe and celebrated in numerous books, films and TV series. www.ferrero.it/nutella
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An old underground “infernot”
Lastly, an absolute ‘must’ for lovers of medieval history and architecture is a visit to the Castle of Serralunga d’Alba, a beautifully preserved Gothic stronghold (www.castellodiserralunga.it). After the long walk up to the castle, take a break and treat yourself to a delicious gourmet meal at the Da Guido restaurant located in the nature reserve of Fontanafredda (www.guidoristorante.it). MONFERRATO Stretching southwards, as far as the foot of the Ligurian Appenines, the Monferrato area occupies a fertile tract of terrain between the provinces of Alessandria and Asti. In addition to numerous historic, cultural and outdoor activities, Monferrato is renowned for its gastronomic specialties. Nature, culture, art and religion combine in a walk that takes visitors on a journey to discover the Nature Park of the Sacro Monte di Crea, in the province
Castle of Monticello 18 W H E R E T U R I N I N O V E M B E R 2018
PHOTO © MIKE DOTTA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
PHOTO © CELORIA ILENIO
WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN
The Fontanafredda cellars
of Alessandria, a real feat of architectural design that encompasses Mount Crea and its sanctuary, which in turn, is a UNESCO World Heritage site. If you prefer a historical visit to an excursion, don’t miss the Eco Museum of ‘Pietra da Cantone’ – a type of sandstone only found in this area – in Cella Monte. In addition to informing visitors about the history, landscapes and art of Monferrato, the museum also organizes initiatives and events targeted at highlighting the historical characteristics of the place. For some years now, the museum has undertaken the arduous but worthwhile task of taking an inventory of the ‘infernot’ in the area. ’Infernot’ are dark, airless underground spaces, carved out in stone, located beneath houses and cellars that, in some instances, are real underground tunnels. These works of arts, carved and modeled by artists, were either used to store bottles of wine, or as pantries, because the temperature inside them remains constant. Several of these old ‘infernot’ are open for public viewing, especially during the ‘vendemmia’ (grape harvest) or on special occasions (www.ecomuseopietracantoni.it). If you feel like sampling some wine, you’ll be spoilt for choice. Although the majority of local wines are red and full-bodied, like Barbera, Grignolino and Freisa, you’ll also find a good selection of whites, including Moscato. An absolute ‘must’ for wine connoisseurs visiting the area is the Enoteca Regionale di Vignale Monferrato. Located in a magnificent 17th century ‘palazzo’, the Enoteca is a great place to taste and purchase some of the area’s best local wines (www.enotecadelmonferrato.it). ROERO Roero is situated in the northeastern part of the province of Cuneo, to the left of the
Tanaro river. Like the neighbouring Langhe, this area is renowned for its enogastronomic and cultural offerings. Among its castles, the Castle of Govone is particularly noteworthy. The castle is located in the province of Cuneo and was formerly one of the royal residences of the House of Savoy (www.castellorealedigovone.it). Located just a short distance from Alba, the Castle of Monticello is one of the most imposing and best-preserved medieval buildings in the area owing to the fact that since 1372 it has been owned and inhabited by the Roero family of Monticello (www.roerodimonticello.it). There’s nothing that says ‘royal highness’ more than a castle. Experience what it feels like to be a prince or princess for one night and stay at the Castle of Guarene, an important stopover on the Piedmontese Baroque itinerary which also hosts a hotel belonging to the Relais&Châteaux chain (www.castellodiguarene.com). For real foodies, an absolute must is the famous sausage of Bra, a delectable product made from lean beef and bacon. Since it requires hardly any ageing, it’s eaten fresh year-round and traditionally served raw, usually as an antipasto, or cooked in a sauce that is used to dress ‘tajarin’ (typically fresh Piedmontese pasta) or polenta (www.salsicciadibra.it). Only a few kilometers from Bra, a trip to the architectural complex of the Agenzia di Pollenzo is well worth your time. Built in 1833, as a country residence for the House of Savoy, it now hosts the first University of Gastronomic Sciences in the world. This university was founded and promoted by the international Slow Food association, which studies, protects and disseminates the agricultural and enogastromic traditions of countries worldwide (www.agenziadipollenzo.com).
Alba’s International White Truffle Fair
Alba, Piazza Risorgimento
The truffle is a tuber-shaped fungus that grows underground. Although different varieties exist, due to the fact that it is particularly sensitive to environmental and climate changes and pollution, the white truffle of Alba – a rare, uncultivable species – is one of the world’s most highly prized fungi. A real subterranean gem, it is generally eaten raw and shaved over starters such as tagliolini, risottos, fried or poached eggs, and beef tartare. By C.Z.
starred Italian chefs. Piazza Risorgimento is transformed into a ‘Salotto dei Gusti e dei Profumi’, a permanent exhibition that celebrates the finest culinary offerings of Piedmont and Italy with tastings and educational workshops. The marriage between gastronomy, art, music and design is translated into numerous fringe events, including the presentation of ‘Alba’s White Truffle Glove’, whose design was created by Patricia Urquiola and the ‘Lynn Davis, Patti Smith: a collaboration’, an interesting exhibition combining photographs by American photographer Lynn Davis, and poetry by singer/poet Patti Smith, hosted in Alba’s Coro della Maddalena. From 27 October to 25 February 2019, visitors to the Fondazione Ferrero can admire a collective exhibition titled ‘From Nothingness to Dreams. Dada and Surrealism from the Collection of the Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen’ featuring famous works by Magritte, Dalí and Max Ernst. On the other hand, between October and November, Alba’s Church of San Giuseppe will host ‘Milleunanota Jazz&Co. 2018’, a captivating program of jazz and contemporary music (www.fieradeltartufo.org).
PHOTOS © DAVIDE CARLETTI
From 6 October to 25 November, this Piedmontese city hosts Alba’s International White Truffle Fair, a key event on the tourist/culinary calendar of the Langhe, Roero and Monferrato now celebrating its 88th edition. Featuring a combination of culture, terroir, sensory and gastronomic experiences, this year’s event is dedicated to the relationship between the earth and the moon. More than just a conventional fair, the event’s strength lies in its ability to offer visitors an action-packed program of cooking demos, performances, experiential tours and artthemed events. The main draw of the fair is the Mercato Mondiale del Tartufo Bianco d’Alba (the Alba White Truffle Market) where, on Saturdays and Sundays (with special openings on 1 and 2 November), visitors can purchase this precious tuber whose authenticity is guaranteed by the National Truffle Study Center. In addition to the above, one of the events most eagerly awaited by visitors is the Alba Truffle Show, an event dedicated to cooking demos, the sensory analysis of truffles, wine tasting experiences and Foodies Moments, featuring different interpretations of Alba’s white truffle by
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[ D A I LY T O U R S ]
Fashion outlets Not far from Turin, in Piedmont, don’t miss a trip to these shopping destinations offering discounts all year-round.
LUGANO MENDRISIO
Vicolungo The Style Outlets
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Torino Outlet Village
TORINO Mondovicino Outlet Village
BERGAMO BRESCIA
FERRARA
ALESSANDRIA
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BOLOGNA THE APPENNINI MOUNTAIN RIDGE
MAR LIGURE PISA
VENTIMIGLIA
TORINO OUTLET VILLAGE Open on March 2017, Torino Outlet Village is an elegant and relaxing place to spend a day’s shopping, thanks also to top-end restaurants and services for families. Open 7 days a week, 10am-8pm (Sat, Sun and festivities 10am-9pm). • WHERE: at just 15 minutes from the centre of Turin, 30 minutes from the main cities in Piedmont and 75 minutes from Milan, near the exits from the A4 and A5 motorways, the Outlet is easy to reach at Settimo Torinese. Daily shuttle bus service from the city centre and a weekly service from the main tourist resorts in Piedmont and Valle d’Aosta. • WHAT: a must for all shopping lovers, Torino Outlet Village offers 90 stores (Armani, Coach, Gucci, La Perla, Michael Kors, Guess, Timberland, Tommy Hilfiger and more) specializing in clothing, accessories and footwear, household articles, sport and personal care under top Italian and international labels, and with discounts of up to 70% all year-round. www.torinooutletvillage.com
SARDEGNA
20 W H E R E T U R I N I N O V E M B E R 2018
RIMINI
FIRENZE
LIVORNO
VICOLUNGO THE STYLE OUTLETS Situated 40 minutes from Turin, in the province of Novara, this is the ideal place to spend an exciting day’s tour where shopping, entertainment and relaxation combine to satisfy all desires. Open 7 days a week from 10 am to 8 pm. • WHERE: take the A4 Torino-Milano motorway and exit at Biandrate Vicolungo. CORSICA Daily shuttle service is available from Milan. Departure from Turin - Piazza Carlo Felice, 63 (in front of Porta Nuova train station) at 10am. For information and reservation: 02 867131 www.zaniviaggi.it. • WHAT: 150 prestigious designer stores – including Armani, Missoni, Trussardi, Tommy Hilfiger, Cavalli, Calvin Klein and Twin Set – offering clothing for the whole family, sportswear, homeware and beauty products at discounted prices of up to 70% all year round. • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: Vicolungo The Style Outlets also hosts art exhibitions, events and other initiatives for a enjoyable day’s outing. www.thestyleoutlets.it
MAR ADRIATICO
MONDOVICINO SIENA OUTLET VILLAGE Situated 1 hour from Turin, in the province of Cuneo, Mondovicino Outlet Village offers a PERUGIA unique shopping experience combining the appeal of the fashion brands with the beauties of the environment (between the Langhe in Piedmont and the Ligurian coast). Open 7 days a week from 10 am to 8 pm. • WHERE: take the A6 Torino-Savona motorway and exit at Mondovì. Free shuttle service is available from Turin, departure from Turin (Corso Vittorio Emanuele II corner of ROMA via Sacchi) at 9.15am, return at 4.50pm from Mondovicino Outlet Village to Turin. For information and reservation: 011 19704670 www.zalunviaggi.com. • WHAT: over 80 prestigious designer stores – including Alviero Martini 1a Classe, Enrico Coveri, Elena Mirò, Fratelli Rossetti, Calvin Klein, Kappa, Liu.Jo and Ungaro – offering clothing for men, women and children, sportswear, homeware and beauty products at discounted prices of up to 70% all year round. www.mondovicino.it
MAR TIRRENO
ANCONA
WHERE NOW | AROUND THE CORNER
The Regge Sabaude In addition to offering an overview of olden-day court life, the Regge Sabaude testifys to the modern history of Piedmont and Italy. BY GIULIA MINERO
© MARY416/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
REGGIA DI VENARIA REALE Located inside the Park of La Mandria, in the historic centre of the town of Venaria, the Reggia di Venaria Reale is a Baroque-style complex built in the mid-17th century as a glorified hunting lodge for Carlo Emanuele II. Its present-day appearance is the result of work by several prominent architects of the era, including Amedeo di Castellamonte, Michelangelo Garove and lastly Filippo Juvarra, who designed many of its most beautiful
Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi
© CLAUDIO DIVIZIA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
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he royal residences are easily accessible by bus or car from Turin, and are among some of the best-preserved examples of 17th and 18th century European architecture. They are a living testimony to the prestige of the local monarchy, the Savoy family, the first kings of unified Italy. In addition to Castello del Valentino and Villa della Regina (see Top in Town), the favourite citybased residences of duchesses and princesses, and the fortress of Castello di Moncalieri, the Regge Sabaude complex, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1997, includes hunting lodges and country residences, embellished with gardens that reflect the sophistication of courtly life.
Reggia di Venaria Reale and widely photographed spaces, including the Grand Gallery, the Chapel of Saint Hubert and the imposing 18th-century complexes of the Juvarra Stables and the Citroniera (Orangerie), now used to host exhibitions and events. Inside the Reggia di Venaria Reale, multimedia installations enable visitors to reconstruct the history of court life, while the apartments of King Vittorio Emanuele II of Savoy and his wife Rosa Vercellana, remodelled in the adjacent Castello della Mandria, are open for public viewing, as is the room hosting the collection of royal jewels. On the last floor of the palace, above the monumental corridor known as the Galleria di Diana, discerning diners can enjoy a delightful meal at the Dolce Stil Novo alla Reggia, the Reggia’s Michelin-starred restaurant. www.lavenaria.it
PALAZZINA DI CACCIA DI STUPINIGI Stupinigi was built in Baroque style in 1729, and is only 10km as the crow flies from Piazza Castello. In addition to being used for long hunting expeditions in the company of members of the local aristocracy, Stupinigi was often chosen by members of the Savoy household for celebrations and dynastic weddings. At the beginning of the 20th century, Queen Margherita of Savoy took up permanent residence here. In 1919, Stupinigi became the headquarters of the Furniture Museum, and a space for events and concerts. In addition to its original furnishings and paintings, the museum hosts several masterpieces of cabinetry. The lodge’s beautifully manicured French gardens and internal spaces are open for public viewing, while its historic park, a part of the hunting reserve, is closed to the public www.ordinemauriziano.it CASTELLO DI RIVOLI Established as a military fortress in 1247, the Rivoli Castle was the first residence of the Savoy duchy. During the 17th century, it was converted into an aristocratic residence, and enlarged with the addition of a wing known as the Manica Lunga, with the ducal picture gallery. Its imposing spaces are now the headquarters of a Museum of Contemporary Art, which also hosts temporary exhibitions. The courtyard of the castle is also home to Combal.Zero, a contemporary starred restaurant whose panoramic glass walls offer glorious views across the countryside as well as the surrounding castle. www.castellodirivoli.org w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 21
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The scented world of the Culti Houses Located in the city’s elegant via Battisti, near Palazzo Carignano, this boutique offers the entire olfactory universe of Culti Milano: unique fragrances and a timeless design. By Elena Binda
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he underlying philosophy of the success of Culti Milano, the brand created in the Nineties by eclectic interior designer Alessandro Agrati, is that a home fragrance is an extension of one’s own personal style. Scenting your house is like choosing a dress or a hairstyle: it reflects your personality, it distinguishes you and leaves a lasting memory. A concept that resulted in the creation of Culti Milano’s home fragrances and Culti Houses, real ‘perfume temples’ that epitomize the values of the brand. Small worlds of light, perfume and design, featuring maple wood furnishings, shelves and niches highlighting the style and excellence of the product. 22 W H E R E T U R I N I N O V E M B E R 2018
At present, the Culti Houses can be found in Milan, Naples, Bari, Forte dei Marmi, Rome and Turin. The Turin-based olfactory store opened in 2018 in the city’s highly central via Battisti, just a few steps away from Palazzo Carignano, a marvel of Baroque architecture. Here, Culti Milano’s home fragrances are available in myriad forms including diffusers, candles, sprays, scented sachets, as well as the new lines of body care products. The latest addition to the range is the ‘Black Tux’ eau de parfum. Created exclusively for Culti House, this harmonious fragrance features heady notes of incense and black pepper that blend seductively with hints of vanilla and amber.
>> www.culti.com Via C. Battisti, 3. T: 011 0361363.
‘Black Tux’ eau de parfum
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN
Guidelines ACCESSORIES
The
This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. MAP LOCATIONS-Note that references in bold at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc.) refer to the coordinates on the street map (pages 46-47). SHOPPING -Shopping hours are generally from
10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Turin) and on Monday mornings. Ask your concierge. Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.
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Regina
Located in the picturesque piazza Gran Madre, this shop, selling handbags and accessories, will satisfy your every whim, whether you’re lovers of Ash biker boots, Golden Goose sneakers, Aquazzura pumps, Castaner wedges or Stuart Weitzman’s jeweled sandals. It also stocks a selection of bags, bijoux and auteur fragrances. www. reginashoes.it. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Wed 9am-1pm/3pm-7.30pm; Thurs-Fri 9am-7.30pm; Sat 9.30am-1.30pm/3pm-7.30pm. Via Villa della Regina, 3. T: 011 8193029. Map I6
Turineyes If you’ve always dreamt of a bespoke pair of glasses, leave a mark on your nose, adapt perfectly to the shape of your face, and are practical yet stylish, then
this is the place for you. Unique models of both prescription and sunglasses, that take around 20 days to execute, can be delivered worldwide. www.turineyes.it. Mon-Sat 9.30am-1pm/2.30pm7pm. Via Mazzini, 33. T: 347 1882008 Map G6
BEAUTY Alkemy This small space in the centre of Turin concocts magical alchemies for body, face and haircare. The Alkemy line includes strictly natural nutricosmetics and dermoactives, whose effectiveness lies in the power of the natural plants and ingredients used, which no other company in the world combines or makes available, including Klamath, the ultimate wild superfood. www.myalkemy.it. Mon-Fri 9.30am-1pm/2.30pm-6pm. Via V. Alfieri, 6. T: 011 5581755. Map E4
TAX-FREE SHOPPING
By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund. UnionPay Service Hotline: 00 800 800 95516 e-mail: europe@unionpayintl.com
UnionPay is an international bankcard association based in China and serves the world’s largest cardholder base. With more than 7 billion cards issued worldwide, UnionPay has become the mayor payment method of the outbound Chinese. By June 2018, more than 600,000 merchants in Italy accept UnionPay card for payment, among which 10,000 merchants are located in Turin. This allows hundred of thousands of affluent Chinese customers to shop with their favourite cards. UnionPay also actively work with famous retail groups, such as Rinascente department stores, McArthurGlen Designer Outlets, SINA hotels, Aspesi fashion boutiques, to provide special discount or services for UnionPay cardholders. DINING
Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30€ or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. SIGHTSEEING
The information provided on museums and monuments is verified as meticulously as possible. However, data such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices and the accessibility of sites are all subject to change, on a seasonal basis and also due to restoration work, museum loans or changes of management. Ask your concierge.
Shopping at Vicolungo The Style Outlets
The 150 boutiques at Vicolungo The Style Outlets offer the ideal combination of fashion, elegance, lifestyle and value for money with discounts of from 30% to 70% on the retail price of the products of more than 300 Italian and international brands including Armani, Baldinini, Borbonese, Cavalli Class, Calvin Klein, Elisabetta Franchi, Flavio Castellani, Gant, Gap, Geox, Guess, Massimo Rebecchi, Missoni, Pollini, Swarovski, Tommy Hilfiger, T Trussardi and Twin-Set. The shopping experience will not only appeal to fashion lovers but also to outdoor sports enthusiasts who will find a selection of several of the world’s most coveted sports brands including Colmar, The North Face, Napapijri, Salomon, Timberland, Dolomite, Quiksilver, Under Armour and Odlo to mention but a few. Located just 40 minutes from Turin, Vicolungo The Style Outlets is easily reachable by car (A4 Motorway, Biandrate-Vicolungo exit). It is also connected to the city centre by a comfortable shuttle service which departs on Saturdays and Sundays at 10.30am from Piazza Carlo Felice, in front of the Porta Nuova station. Take advantage of the numerous services offered by the centre including free Wi-Fi access, a personal shopper service, available by appointment only, and tax-free shopping, or take a break from shopping by visiting one of the Outlet’s bars or restaurants serving typical Italian Cuisine. By presenting this page at the Info Point, you can collect your shopping card which entitles you to an additional discount of 10% on the outlet price. For more information visit vicolungo.thestyleoutlets.it
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[ FA SHION DESIGNERS]
Luxury Top Brands A stroll through the streets of the centre, amidst elegant royal porticoes (that extend for 18km across the city), and squares embellished with sumptuous architecture, is a unique opportunity to soak up the city’s authentic charm. It’s also a great destination for shopping enthusiasts. In the heart of the city, often referred to as ‘little Paris’, you’ll find the best fashion brands. In particular, the austere and elegant via Roma and the parallel via Lagrange, do justice to the exquisite Italian and international fashions on display. Alternately, a reference point for young, trendy fashion is via Garibaldi – one of the longest pedestrian streets in Europe – which runs from Piazza Castello to Piazza Statuto. The ideal place for lovers of antiques and vintage items is via Po, which links Piazza Castello to Piazza Vittorio Veneto.
ASPESI—Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Galleria San Federico, 46. T: 011 5613577. Map F4 BRUNELLO CUCINELLI— www.brunellocucinelli.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 8. T: 011 4407207. Map F4 CALVIN KLEIN—www.calvinklein.com Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Roma,342. T: 011 5613226. Map F4 CHANEL—www.chanel.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 2. T: 011 5066699. Map F4 GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Piazza San Carlo, 145. T: 011 5627768. Map E5 24 W H E R E T U R I N I N O V E M B E R 2018
• Emporio Armani: Via Buozzi Bruno, 5. T. 011 5625977. Map F4 GUCCI—www.gucci.com Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Via Roma, 112. T: 011 4546632. Map F4 HERMÈS—www.hermes.com Open Mon-Sat 10.15am-2pm/3pm-7pm. Via Roma, 124. T: 011 546971. Map F4 ITALIA INDEPENDENT— www.italiaindependent.com Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 31. T: 011 19885704. Map F5
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— www.ferragamo.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via Roma, 108. T: 011 5625940. Map E5 SWAROVSKI—www.swarovski.com Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Via Roma, 335. T: 011 535345. Map E5 • Open Mon 3.30pm7.30pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am-1pm/3.30pm7.30pm. Corso Racconigi, 32 bis. T: 011 3852651. Off Map WOLFORD—www.wolford.it Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Wed 10am1.30pm/2.30pm-7.30pm; Thus-Sat 10am7.30pm; Sun 3.30pm-7pm. Via A. Doria, 6. T: 011 531348. Map F5
L’AUTRE CHOSE—www.lautrechose.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 20/A. T: 011 19468000. Map F5 LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via Roma, 320. T: 011 5620678. Map E5 MARINA RINALDI—it.marinarinaldi.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via Roma, 314. T: 011 5187050. Map E5 MAX & CO.—it.maxandco.com Open Mon 11am-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Roma, 69. T: 011 541276. Map F4 MICHAEL KORS—www.michaelkors.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am7pm. Via Roma, 322. T: 011 5618172. Map E5 MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 6c. T: 011 4782004. Map F4 MONCLER—www.moncler.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 2. T: 011 5618744 Map F4 MONTBLANC—www.montblanc.com Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. Via Roma, 104. T: 011 5187109. Map E5 PRADA—www. prada.com Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 2/q. T: 011 3710203. Map F4 ROBE DI KAPPA—www.robedikappa.com Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Via G. Garibaldi, 33. T: 011 19886532. Map F3
GIORGIO ARMANI’s winter collection reaffirms an exclusive linear elegance: pure, elongated, minimalist forms that create a tailored, fluid silhouette.
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PIAZZA illustrious Maître Parfumeurs, cosmetics and V IA E MARIA V IT Melissa TO A U Sa I L Iwide A T R I C Erange R IO makeup. The Arcade also offers V I A Just steps from the Mole Antonelliana, AN Melissa is DR S. E IS GI of home fragrances and scented candles, US much Customers visiting E P more than a herbalist. Piccola Casa della PE Divina Provvidenza select bijoux, facials and makeup sessions.P I A Z Z A Cottolengo the spaceBEwill N E D find a vast selection of organic ETTO DELLA www.larcadedesparfums-profumeria.it. Open FORCA CO products, including makeup, cosmetics, hair TT MonV 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 10am-7.30pm; C O cups and O R products, natural soaps,LENcandles, IA IO S. GO N Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Corso Vittorio CH Steapots, GE IA perfumes and herbal teas, plus teas and O RA EU E RE Emanuele II, 74/F.CT:I P011 5621148. Map D5 infusions all types. Its interior, decorated with G of IN IN PR VI O A A flower-patterned wallpaper, hat stands, velvet RS SA Jo Malone London O NT M C Anagrafe A sofas and vintage Afurniture, is reminiscent of a VI H I this prestigious RG The entire product range Cof A AR V IA C A H E to organizing AR SA Centro Palatino Ospedale San Luigi ND French boudoir. In addition events, LO Pala Fuksas BritishV brand is showcased at the airyExboutique OM R I GN IA EN VI IC O AZ its owners often pamper theirI Tclientele with A D E the city’s central A located in via Lagrange. SA IO L Mercato NT CA GI Alimentare A RM UL makeup artists or manicurists. www.melissatorino. CH PIAZZA Perfumes, candles, diffusers, bath and body IN IO IA E RA Mercato V IA DELLA PIAZZA com. Open Mon-Sat 11am-2pm; 3,30pm-7,30pm. Ittico S Santuario care and home products, all featuring A N the iconic MANUELE REPUBBLICA della Consolata DO ME Museo della FILIBERTO Via G. Ferrari, 4. T: 011 8395813. Map H4 CO N ICbe P I A Z Z A of Jo Malone London that can fragrances
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combined to create your scent. Sanown Pietro inbespoke Vincoli IND All customers visiting the boutique are offered a This niche perfumery, whose is inspired I Sname I relaxing, scented hand massage. VIA by the arcaded porticoes of Corso Vittorio M www.jomalone.com. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; TuesRIA Emanuele II, conducts Aongoing research on its AU Basilica di Maria Ausiliatrice SIL Sat 10am–7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Via Lagrange, 4/a. I AT journey amidst signature style. Take an olfactory RIC E T: 011 4546467. Map F4 luxury perfume brands, fragrances created by
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SHOPPING
Esoteric Turin Turin is a city of mystery, magic and legend. Its ‘magical’ significance is attributed to its geographical position, along the 45th parallel where the Po and Dora rivers meet. More importantly, it creates the vertices of two triangles, a triangle of white magic and a triangle of black magic. This explains why Turin boasts numerous shops dedicated to arcane practices where you can purchase books, incense, tarot cards, candles, plus anything else associated with the occult world. (C.Z.) ARETHUSA At Italy’s oldest occult bookshop, established in 1948, you can find a comprehensive selection of publications, books, magazines or series dedicated to spiritual, hermetic or esoteric subjects. Arethusa also stocks a wide range of tarot cards, pendulums, crystal balls, Tibetan Mala, bùzinos, runes and incense. arethusalibreria.com Tues-Sat 10.45am- 6.40pm. Via G. Giolitti, 18. T: 011 8173373. Map F5 ESOTERICAMENTE A reference point in the city for lovers of the genre. After crossing a beautiful inner courtyard in via Garibaldi, you’ll find a vast assortment of ritualistic objects, talismans of Salomonic origin, tarot cards and cards from all over the world, incense, crystals and everything required for ritualistic practices. The bookstore is large and wellstocked. www.esotericamente.it Open Mon 2.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via G. Garibaldi, 18 (courtyard). T: 011 4310499. Map E3 LIBRERIA EDITRICE PSICHE Founded in Turin in 1978, this publisher, publishes and sells works related to medicine, naturopathy, psychology, spirituality, sophism, Buddhism, Taoism and numerology at its namesake bookstore. Also organizes meetings, courses and themed seminars. www.libreriaeditricepsiche.info Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-12.30pm/3.30pm7.30pm; Sat 9.30am-12.30am. Via Madama Cristina, 70/b. T: 011 6507058. Off Map
26 W H E R E T U R I N I N O V E M B E R 2018
CLOTHING MEN & WOMEN Antonioli This multi-brand boutique for men and women in located in piazza Carlina, one of the city’s main squares. Antonioli stocks a mixture of unconventional, prestigious designer labels including Rick Owens, Jil Sander, Anne Demeulemeester, Maison Margiela and Gareth Pugh. The choice of designer labels and the store’s interior decor are a reflection of Claudio Antonioli’s personal style. His philosophy is based on blending contemporary taste with alternative solutions in a practical manner. www.antonioli.eu. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 11am-7.30pm. Piazza Carlo Emanuele II, 19. T: 011 883253. Map G5
Boggi Milano Men’s fashion is a perfect blend of stylistic research and high-quality fabrics, offering clients a product that’s excellent value for money. www.boggi.com. Via XX Settembre, 11/c. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues- Sat 10am-7.30pm. Map E5 * Stazione Porta Nuova - Via Nizza. Open Mon-Sun 8am-9pm. T: 011 5622017. Map E6
Caramello Located in the centre of Turin, this large showroom spread over two floors, offers a wide selection of men and women’s fashions. The assortment ranges from Elisabetta Franchi’s feminine, contemporary collections to sartorial men’s brand Tagliatore, from Dondup, the queen of Made-in-Italy denim, to Patrizia Pepe and Manuel Ritz. Caramello also has an outlet in the Crocetta district, showcasing last season’s collections at affordable prices. caramellostore.it. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 10.30am-7.30pm; Sat 10am-7.30pm. Corso G. Ferraris, 2. T: 011 5175090. Map D3
Kristina Ti The standalone store of famous Torinese brand Kristina offers romantic, highly feminine collections designed by Cristina Tardito. At this warm, welcoming space, located just a stone’s throw from piazza Castello, you’ll find clothing for free spirited, independent women, who are not prepared to sacrifice a touch of seductive frivolity. www.kristinati.it Open Mon 3.30am-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am7.30pm. Via Maria Vittoria, 18. T: 011 837170. Map F4
Posh At this multi-brand store, situated in the prestigious piazza San Carlo in the heart of the city, you’ll find a selection of clothing, perfumes and accessories by several of the world’s most prestigious international brands. This highly selective choice of clothing for men and women includes big-name brands like See by Chloè, Vivienne Westwood, Karl Lagerfeld, Comme des Garçons and Jean Charles de Castelbajac www.poshtorino. com. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Wed 10.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Thurs 10.30am-7.30pm; Fri-Sun 10.30am-1.30pm, 3.30pm-7.30pm. Via Roma, 218. T: 011 5622365. Map F4
ALESSI recently entered the world of home fragrances with ‘The Five Seasons’ collection by Marcel Wanders. This elegant room spray is available at the Rinascente department store.
San Carlo dal 1973 CONCEPT STORE An historic Torinese clothing store, located in its namesake square. This large multi-brand store, dedicated to the best collections of clothing, accessories and perfumes, skillfully mixes designer labels with alternative brands; a repository of non-conformist ideas, where you can search for items that are never ordinary. The list of brands available is vast and includes Acne Studios, DKNY, Issey Miyake, Jil Sander, Lanvin and Marni. Other highlights include cosmetics by Santa Maria Novella and niche perfumes by Byredo and Diptyque. www.sancarlodal1973.com. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-7pm. Piazza San Carlo, 201. T: 011 5114110. Map F4
SO San Lorenzo An ideal destination for lovers of a chic, soughtafter style, this stand-alone store offers a selection of established and emerging brands including Loboutin, Azzedine Alaia, Isabel Marant and Giambattista Valli. Additionally, its homeware department features furnishing fabrics, unique design pieces and a careful selection of tableware and furnishing accessories. www.sosanlorenzo. it. Open Mon3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am7.30pm. Via Des Ambrois, 7. T: 011 883531. Map G5
Top Ten Located in the highly central via Soleri, this two-level space has been, since its inception, a reference point for the city’s elite. Its discreet, minimalist architectural style is reflected in its meticulous, well-defined choice of brands, ranging from the avant-garde to the most prestigious international brands like Comme des Garçons, Junya and Watanabe, to mention but a few. Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via Soleri, 2. T: 011 535360. Map E5
Verdelilla Tucked away in a beautiful courtyard in Corso Re Umberto, this alluring space houses a selection of coveted French and Japanese brands, by designers like Tsumori Chisato, Jerome Dreyfuss and Jasmin Puech, and also showcases the creations of emerging brands. Amidst fashion, accessories, bijoux, perfumes and cosmetics, this must-visit boutique exudes an atmosphere of innovative taste, relaxed elegance and lowkey femininity. www.verdelilla.it. Open Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. Corso Re Umberto, 27. T: 011 5172701. Map D6
SHOPPING DEPARTMENT STORE Rinascente Italy’s most prestigious temple of high-end shopping is located in the city’s highly central via Lagrange. This department store offers the best in fashion for men, women and children, alongside a selection of accessories, design, homeware and beauty by the best Italian and international brands. At its food market, you’ll find the best gourmet Made-in-Italy foods, and a fabulous selection of prestigious international products. Don’t miss the renewed floors: -1 (home-food-design), 3rd and 4th floors (women’s fashion). Open Mon-Fri 9.30am8pm; Sat 9.30am-8.30pm; Sun10am-8pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 15. T: 011 5170075. Map F5
JEWELLERY & WATCHES Astrua 1860
ROLEX RETAILER A reference point for luxury French, Swiss and German timepieces, patronized by the Torinese and international aristocracy since the 19 th century, Astrua is synonymous with quality, reliability and technical expertise. This historic boutique offers a wide range of products including new and pre-owned watches, jewelry, glass art, perfumes, candles, writing instruments and luxury leather goods. High-end watch brands stocked include Rolex, Patek Philippe, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Cartier, Vacheron Constantin, Omega, Officine Panerai, IWC, Cartier, Hublot and Montblanc. Open Mon 3.30pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am1.30pm/3.30pm-7pm. www.astrua.com. Via C. Battisti, 15. T: 011 5613589. Map F4
Rocca 1794
ROLEX RETAILER Master jewelers and watchmakers since the 18th century, Rocca rates among the first importers of luxury Swiss watches.
Rocca pays homage to fine watchmaking with a selection of the world’s most prestigious brands including Damiani, Rolex, Breguet, Ulysse Nardin, Omega, Cartier, Roger Dubuis, Piaget, Vacheron Constantin, Breitling, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Tudor, Venini and Salvini. Rocca is acknowledged for its longstanding tradition of professionalism and expert consultancy. Located in the shadow of the Mole Antonelliana, its founder, Alberto Rocca, opened his first boutique at the end of the 18th century. Open Mon-Sat 10.40am-7pm; Sun 10.40am-1.30pm/3pm-7pm. www.rocca1794.com. Via Roma, 290. T: 011 5621467/5629260. Map F4
LEATHER & LUGGAGE Maledetti Toscani This story began in 1848 in Montepulciano, Tuscany, when the great-great grandfather of the present owners opened a leather workshop. Today, although Maledetti Toscani owns shops in Europe, the USA and Canada, it continues to focus religiously on time-honoured Made-in-Italy craftsmanship. Hence, the creation of footwear, renowned for its delightfully aged appearance, crafted in only the finest leathers, dyed with tree tannins and enhanced with real leather soles, and hand woven, hand-stitched artisanal bags. www. maledettitoscani.com. Open Mon-Fri 9am-5pm. Via P. Micca, 18. T: 011 5579134. Map E4
PASSION SHOPPING Bagni Paloma Located in an old 100sq.m. garage in the heart of Turin, this delightful concept store carries clothing, furniture and various other items including dishwashing liquids, black pepper, candles,
ROCCA 1794 The historic Rocca Boutique is a prestigious, luxury destination and the only retailer in the city selling the world’s most desirable jewelry and watch brands. It comprises two floors, four hundred square metres, nine brightly-lit shop windows and top name brands. www.rocca1794.com
Tax Free Refund Guide 1. VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a value added tax on goods and services, and is part of the European Union’s value added tax system. 2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a VAT refund. This refund does not cover the services supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies. 3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: • you are a non-EU resident; • the goods purchased are intended for personal or family use only and are carried in your luggage; • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds 154,94 Euro (VAT included); • the purchase is certified by an invoice. This invoice should include a description of the goods purchased, your personal information as well as the details of your passport or any other equivalent document; • the goods leave EU territory by the end of the third month after the month that you bought them; • several specific customs formalities are complied with; • the invoice is returned to the Italian retailer within four months after the purchase was made. 4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must be shown at the customs exit point when leaving EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items into your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs BEFORE checking in). 5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return the original invoice, regularly endorsed by the customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice must be returned within four months from the date when the document was issued. 6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian retailer (however, make sure that the shop you’ve chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax Free” sign in its window). 7. Several Tax-Free companies are able to offer immediate VAT cash refunds when the goods leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating the passenger from having to return the invoice to the retailer). However, this procedure only applies at major international airports or main border crossings. Most major department stores have Tax Free Refund offices. 8. The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply the payment of a small administrative sum which is directly deducted from the amount of VAT refunded to the traveller. 9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund within a reasonable period of time, he or she should re-contact the Italian retailer or one of the aforementioned companies. 10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded directly by customs offices. Source: www.agenziadoganemonopoli.gov.it/ portale/ee/citizen/vta-refund
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SHOPPING
BOTTEGA VELASCA See this page
Japanese watercolours and colognes by Parisian ceramic artist Astier de Villatte. The backbone of its fashion offerings include niche brands like Mimì à la Mer, Laura Urbinati, Ouigal, Maria La Rosa and Ishi. All the furniture used for display is on sale. www.bagnipaloma.it. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Wed 10.30am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Thurs-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Via dei Mille, 30/d. T: 011 888569. Map G6
Culti House Torino At this small, charming boutique decorated in shades of ochre and sand, you’ll find the culture of Culti, designed to stimulate the senses in a mixture of design, art and fragrance. The space houses all the brand’s collections of room and home fragrances including diffusers, room sprays, candles, cosmetics and scented pillows. www.culti. com. Open Tues-Sat 10.30am–2pm/3pm-7.30pm. Via C. Battisti, 3. T: 011 0361363. Map F4
La Belle Histoire Located underneath the Mole Antonelliana, this retrò-style atelier, overlooking a picturesque courtyard, is a go-to destination for romantics who’ll find themselves surrounded by old suitcases, trunks, wooden vintage furniture and brocade armchairs. The store offers a selection of almost exclusively Made-in-Italy garments, with the exception of French brand Lilith, Spanish brand Hoss Intropia and Japanese brand Takaaki. Other highlights include a collection of strictly Italian-made footwear
See this page
See page 26
and a homeware line.www.labellehistoire.it. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 10am-1pm; 3.30pm-7.30pm; Thurs and Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via Montebello 15/g.T: 011 8136199. Map H3
Les Coquettes Housed in a 1920s Parisian-style apartment, amidst vintage hat stands, drawers filled with costume jewelry, antiques and pink leather sofas, this unusual, whimsical concept store, with a slightly bohemian air, offers a selection of clothing, delicious bijoux, cosmetics, candles, perfumes and furnishing accessories. www.lescoquettes.it. Open Tues-Sat 10.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via G. Barbaroux, 12/l. T: 011 531943. Map F3
Mabì Mabì is a sought-after boutique that sells couture clothing, French costume jewelry, artisanal footwear and natural cosmetic products. Rather than fast fashion, you’ll find a selection of authentic clothing with a nod to vintage, at this charming boutique. Garments on sale include a collection of women’s couture dresses designed especially for Mabi by Maria della Rocchetta, one of the two owners of the store, who has a passion for British-style floral prints. www.mabishop.it. Open Mon 3.30pm7.30pm; Tues-Wed 10.30am-1.30pm/3pm-7.30pm; Thurs-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Via della Rocca, 2/m. T: 349 2818511. Map G6
Poncif Since 1986, this boutique has focused on a style designed for women, who, in spite of their love for minimalist, no-frills fashion, are nevertheless looking to make a statement thanks to the strikingly original designs and unusual colour combinations. In addition to the line of the Poncif brand, designed and produced by an in-house team, all the collections showcased are based on the same principle. www.poncif.com. Open Mon 3.30pm7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Fri 10am-7.30pm. Piazza Vittorio Veneto, 5\f. T: 011 8173040. Map H5
Tuscan leather goods manufacturer MALEDETTI TOSCANI has recently arrived in Turin. Their range of 100% Made in Italy handcrafted items include these men’s canvas gaiters with adjustable side buckles. 28 W H E R E T U R I N I N O V E M B E R 2018
LA BELLE HISTOIRE
SAN CARLO DAL 1973
Rrriot shop Tucked away in the creative, multi-ethnic district of San Salvario, this shop, distinguished by its minimalist decor, mixes men and women’s clothing with vintage jewelry and accessories and young, creative brands. Thanks to ongoing research, Rrriot strives to offer its customers a range of products that are always different and innovative. Its aim is to introduce Turin to Northern European brands designed exclusively for the Italian market. www.rrriotshop.com. Tues-Fri 10.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm-19.30pm; Sat 10.30am7.30pm. Via Berthollet, 25/a. T: 011 19500239. Map F7
SHOES Bottega Velasca Located in the Borgo Nuovo district, south-east of the centre of Turin, this artisanal shoe (and accessories) store for men offers customers an authentic Made in Italy experience. Renowned for its craftsmanship and Italian excellence, Bottega Velasca offers a selection of classic, casual and formal footwear. Open Mon 4pm-8pm; Tues-Fri 11am-3pm/4pm-8pm; Sat and Sun 11am-8pm. www.velasca.com. Via G. Mazzini 22/e. T: 02 94755460 (bottega.torino@velasca.com).Map G6
Hole This multi-brand store located in the heart of the city’s historic centre sells high-quality footwear distinguished by its original design. You’ll find a interesting mix of trendy brands here, including Ixos, Moma and Strategia, alongside models by Italian and internal artisanal producers. Also sells bags and accessories. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.15pm; Tues-Fri 10.30am-2pm/3.30pm-7.15pm; Sat 10.30am12.30am/3.30pm-7pm. Via G. Botero, 11. T: 011 5176602. Map E3
Cribì Established in 1996, and located in Turin’s highly central via Lagrange, Cribi is a multi-brand store selling minimalist, alternative footwear and clothing, featuring a combination of craftsmanship and experimentation to create elegant, timeless lines. Best sellers include boots by Fiorentini+Baker, pumps by Del Carlo and original clothing by Malloni and Liviana Conti. www.cribibotique.it. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30 pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-2pm/3.30pm7.30pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 38. T: 011 5611348. Map F5
[RINASCENTE]
One-stop shop
The best shopping in Turin
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Head to the historic Rinascente department store in via Lagrange to discover the latest innovations of this ever-evolving shopping universe.
Following the opening this spring of the new -1 floor dedicated to homeware, design and food, Rinascente recently revamped its 3rd and 4th women’s floors offering the best in fashion, thanks to a brand mix designed exclusively for the store. The two new floors feature unique, distinctive and eclectic offerings and are the ideal place to explore a wide range of women’s fashions, with areas devoted to contemporary and classic ready-towear, lingerie and footwear. The floors are organized according to a perimeter like shopin-shop concept with a multi-brand central area hosting approximately 230 brands, of which more than 200 are new at the Turin-based store. FASHION & SHOES Spread over 1,250 square metres, the store’s new third floor presents contemporary readyto-wear, expressed to perfection for a complete day-to-night lifestyle look. The focal point of the floor is a 250 square meter area dedicated
to footwear, a go-to place for those who wear this accessory as a distinctive element of their style. Brands showcased include Casadei, Isabel Marant, Kenzo, Marni, Sergio Rossi, Tod’s, Hogan, Tory Burch, Fratelli Rossetti, Michael Kors and numerous others. Lovers of a casualchic look will be spoilt for choice when it comes to sneakers. Brands include Adidas Y3, All Star Converse, Nike, Premiata, Puma, Reebok, Superga and more. READY TO WEAR, LINGERIE & CHILDREN The fourth floor is the kingdom of classic ready-to-wear featuring the timeless allure of the latest collections by Aspesi, Emporio Armani, Fabiana Filippi, Herno, Fay, Polo Ralph Lauren, MaxMara Weekend and other brands renowned for their contemporary classic style. The floor’s 1,200 square metres also host an area devoted to lingerie, in a visually striking architectural display, infused with
a romantic mood; the collections include items from Wolford, Paladini, Emporio Armani, Henro, Calvin Klein, Chantelle and Lejaby. The children’s collections, featuring on-trend picks by big-name brands like Emporio Armani, Diesel, EA7, Il Gufo and Tartine et Chocolat, complete the shopping experience at the via Lagrange store. RINASCENTE ON DEMAND Try the exclusive On Demand Service, a dedicated instant messaging service to make shopping easier: the personal shopper who finds your favourite product in store and deliver it directly to your house. Now available also on WeChat. T: + 39 3440081600. ondemand@rinascente.it >> Rinascente Torino www.rinascente.it - Open 7 days a week. Via G.L. Lagrange, 15. T: 011 5170075. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 29
FOOD&WINE
The house of gelato Alberto Marchetti’s philosophy of authentic ice cream is based on the use of high-quality ingredients sourced from Slow Food Presidia and processed according to the strictest regulations. By Sophia Bertoli
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or some time now, the name Alberto Marchetti has been associated with high-quality gelato. This master ice cream maker recently rose to fame after being chosen by Starbucks to combine the Italian tradition of artisanal gelato with the taste of quintessential American coffee. But who is Alberto Marchetti? The son of ice cream makers, he grew up surrounded by ‘fiordilatte’ and hazelnuts and he made them his profession. His products are an example of artisanship, with an almost maniacal attention to raw materials. Fresh milk and cream, sugar, seasonal fruit and numerous ingredients sourced from Slow Food Presidia, purchased from select local producers. These are the ingredients that make the flavours of Marchetti’s gelato so special. Scoops to seek out include traditional 30 W H E R E T U R I N I N O V E M B E R 2018
pistachio, hazelnut or chocolate, Farina Bona, made using only the finest cornmeal produced in the Valle Onsernone (between Ticino and Piedmont). At present, Alberto Marchetti has three ice cream parlours in Turin, one in Alassio and one in Milan. To learn more about the art of this master ice cream maker, head to Casa Marchetti, one of his three outposts in the Savoy city: an ice cream parlour with a workshop and an open-plan warehouse but, above all, a place to meet and exchange ideas. Visitors can participate in cooking demos and make purchases from the shop dedicated to select producers or from the standalone stores of Marchetti’s partners, including Altalanga, renowned for its hazelnut specialties, maître chocolatier Guido Gobino and coffee roaster San Domenico.
>> Casa Marchetti - Alberto Marchetti www.albertomarchetti.it Piazza C.L.N., 248. T: 011 544383.
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FOOD SHOPS Borgiattino A reference point in Turin for lovers of traditional Piedmont cheeses, including Tome and Fontine d’alpeggio, Robiola, Gorgonzola, Ormea and Castelmagno. Located in the heart of the city, this historic ‘bottega’ also offers specialties from other Italian and European regions including Reblochon from France and Cheddar from Britain, accompanied by wines and other high-quality artisanal products. Open Mon-Sat 8.30am-1pm/4pm-7.30pm. borgiattino.com. Corso Vinzaglio, 29. T: 011 5629075. Map C4
Ditta Ceni A historic, 19th century grocery that still retains its old-world charm. This deli takes visitors back to a time when people purchased their food from the local emporium, amidst brightly coloured produce and heavenly aromas and a grocer who was always on-hand to dispense advice. There’s a wide array of items on offer, including a selection Italian and oriental rice, all kinds of pulses, grains and dried and dehydrated fruit, flour, aromatic herbs, teas and herbal teas, pasta, biscuits and only the finest honey and jams, with or without sugar. In addition to food, the store also stocks natural cosmetics and food supplements. Open Tues-Fri 9am-1pm/3.30pm/7.15pm; Sat 9am-7pm. www.dittaceni.com. Piazza della Repubblica, 5/h. T: 011 4362149/286. Map F2
Gastronomia (La)
VEGAN A vegan delicatessen where you can eat on-site, order take-aways, or even take cookery courses. Its dishes, all cooked with meat-free ingredients, include Seitan, Russian and Capricciosa salad and a strictly anchovyfree Piedmont green sauce for vegans who are fans of Piedmont specialties. The deli is located in via Dante Nenni, in the heart of Borgo San Paolo, Turin’s historical, working class district. Open Mon-Thus 10am-8pm; Fri 10am-10pm. Sat 9.30am-2.30pm. gastronomiaveg.it. Via Dante di Nanni, 116. T: 011 3828605. Off Map
Làit e Formagg Located just steps from the centre, this small, well-stocked shop sells Piedmontese and other cheese specialties (Parmesan cheese, ricotta, aged cheeses, ‘tomini’, ‘caprini’, herb-flavoured cheeses and more) which can be sampled with tantalizing sauces, high-quality charcuterie and other regional specialties including grissini, lingue di suocera (a type of biscuit which translates literally as mother-in-law’s tongues) and other typical sweet treats, such as Piedmontese biscuits and hazelnut cakes. From October to January, you’ll also find precious white truffles from Alba. Open Mon 11am-2pm/4pm-8pm; TuesSat 8am-2pm/4pm-8pm. www.alformaggi.it. Via Madama Cristina, 18. T: 011 6699407. Off Map
Latteria Bera Situated just a short distance from Piazza Castello, this old-world, family-run ‘latteria’ (dairy shop) sells cheese and traditional Italian and Piedmontese charcuterie and pickles. The cheeses on offer include Parmigiano Reggiano, Robiola from Roccaverano, Caciocavallo from Potenza, Morozzo and Toma-flavoured butter. Other delicacies on offer include freshly whipped cream and Greek yoghurt.
Open Mon-Tues 9.30am-1.30pm/3pm-7.30pm; Thus-Sat 9.30am-2pm/3pm-7.30pm. www.latteriabera.com. Via San Tommaso, 13/a. T: 328 0166854. Map F3
Pescheria Gallina Now run by the fourth generation, this historic fishmonger located in Porta Palazzo’s piazza del mercato has been in business for over a century. Its wonderfully fresh fish, mainly sourced from the Ligurian Sea, guaranteeing that it was caught just 24 hours earlier, can be eaten on-site. Customers can choose their order directly from the counter or opt for its fixed-price menu, which include the catch of the day, focaccia, a glass of house wine and a bottle of water. Open Mon-Fri 07am-3pm; Sat 7.30am-5pm. www.pescheriagallina.com. Piazza della Repubblica, 14/b. T: 011 5213424. Map F2
ITALIAN GELATO Alberto Marchetti You can sample Alberto Marchetti’s awardwinning ice cream at various locations across the city. The highlights of its ‘creations’ are its freshness, simplicity and the quality of its ingredients that conjure up childhood memories of only the most authentic gelato. In particular, thanks to the Slow Food project, which protects small, local producers, it offers a selection of unique flavours including ice cream made with Leonforte peaches, Ribera wild strawberries, Mombaruzzo amaretti or Moscato Passito from Strevi. Open Mon-Thurs 12noon-midnight; Fri-Sat 12noon-1am; Sun 11am-11pm. www. albertomarchetti.it. Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 24bis. T: 011 8390879. Map E5 * Via Po, 35bis. T: 011 8141160. Map G4 * Piazza CLN, 248. T: 011 544383. Map F5
Gelateria Pepino
UNIQUE Situated in Piazza Carignano, in the heart of Turin, Pepino is one of Italy’s oldest ice cream parlours that has been producing highquality ice cream since 1884. In 1939, it invented and patented the famous Pinguino®, the classic ice cream on a stick covered with chocolate that soon became popular throughout the rest of the world. In addition to the classic vanilla version, Pepino offers a variety of different options including coffee, gianduja, mint and coconut. Open Fri-Sat 9.30am-10.30pm; Sun-Thurs 9.30am8.30pm. www.gelatipepino.it. Piazza Carignano, 87. T: 011 542009. Map F4
Mara dei Boschi Its natural ice cream made from only the finest ingredients without preservatives or additives, won the venue a mention in the Gambero Rosso Guide, and is one of of the best ice cream parlours in Italy. Mara dei Boschi, a constantly evolving ice cream parlour, uses innovative techniques to revive the flavours of the past. Its specialty is Marotto, an interpretation of Turin’s classic gianduotto made with white truffles from Alba and hazelnuts from the Langhe. This fabulous milk-free ice cream is an ideal option for vegans. Open Mon-Thurs 12noon-11pm; Sat and Sun 12noonmidnight. Via Berthollet, 30/h. T: 011 0769557. www.maradeiboschi.com. Corso De Gasperi, 57/e. T: 011 18891679. Off Map
A temple of flavours Made from espresso, chocolate and cream, the ‘bicerin’ was created in the Caffè Al Bicerin, which jealously guards its recipe. Il takes its name from the special rounded glasses without handles in which it is served. The locale in the picturesque piazza della Consolata opposite the Sanctuary, was established in 1763 as a shop selling drinks and sorbets, and only became a chocolate and pastry shop in the mid-1800s. Today, in addition to ‘bicerin’, the Caffè continues to delight the palates of tourists, students, Turinese ‘Signore’, politicians and intellectuals with numerous other delectable specialties, including a mouth watering zabaione, prepared on the spot, accompanied by whipped cream, small biscuits flavoured with marsala, moscato, lemon, passito or black cherry Ratafia. Another must-try delicacy is the Bicerin’s cake, made from coffee and chocolate, iced with a white frosting. A visit to Al Bicerin is well worth your time to soak up its old-world atmosphere. Once inside, you’ll feel that you’ve stepped back into the 1800s. Its interior is decorated with original period furnishings, antique mirrors and glass display cabinets showcasing chocolate like works of art. Piazza della Consolata, 5. T: 011 4369325. bicerin.it
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DINING
The thousand faces of Del Cambio A blend of 19th century décor and contemporary artworks reflect the spirit of Del Cambio, an institution for food connoisseurs, where the past meets the present. By Giulia Minero
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oasting more than 250 years of history and a starred roster of guests, including illustrious figures of past centuries, crowned heads, stars of the silver screen, and ‘viveurs’ like Giacomo Casanova, one of the first guests to patronize this venue which, back in 1760, was only a small cafè overlooking Piazza Carignano: since 1757, Del Cambio has had what it takes to surprise. In 2014, after an in-depth makeover and repositioning, it was transformed into a multi-faceted establishment designed to satisfy an eclectic clientele throughout the day. Del Cambio is no longer just a historical restaurant, but a gourmet universe spread out over several floors. This recently revamped establishment now comprises a gastronomic, Michelin-starred restaurant helmed by Chef 32 W H E R E T U R I N I N O V E M B E R 2018
Matteo Baronetto, a distinctive Chef’s Table, for a gourmet dinner in an intimate, picturesque space, and the Farmacia del Cambio, a cafèbistro where you can sample a light lunch, enjoy an aperitivo, or indulge in a delicious sweet treat created by Chef Pâtissier Fabrizio Galla. And there’s more. The venue also hosts the Bar Cavour, a cocktail bar with an international flavour, where you can sip a cocktail or savour bistro-style offerings until late at night. All the spaces are distinguished by the same leitmotiv: a sophisticated blend of tradition, the authentic flavours of local cuisine and innovation. >> Del Cambio Piazza Carignano, 2. T: 011 546690 www.delcambio.it
Chef Matteo Baronetto
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TRADITIONAL PIEDMONTESE CUISINE Cannavacciuolo Bistrot Located just steps from the Gran Madre, this Turin-based bistro owned by multi-award winning Italian chef Antonino Cannavacciuolo, will not disappoint. The bistro offers guests a unique tasting experience featuring a combination of northern and southern flavours. Highlights include Fassona beef tartare, codfish with tomatoes, eggplant parmigiana ravioli with a Provola cheese sauce and pigeon with blueberries and burrata (a fresh Italian buffalo milk cheese made from mozzarella and cream). Open Mon 7pm-11pm; Tues-Sat 12.30pm-3pm/7pm-11pm. €€€. www.cannavacciuolobistrot.it/torino. Via U. Cosmo, 6. T: 011 8399893. Map I6
Casa Amelie A stone’s throw from the Quadrilatero Romano, and only a few months after opening, this small, welcoming locale owned by Neapolitan chef Guido Perino, was classified as one of the city’s top ten restaurants at the Fork Restaurants Awards, sponsored by Identità Golose. The chef’s creative yet simple cuisine features a combination of classic and exotic fare, premiumquality ingredients and seasonal products that will delight your taste buds. Open Mon 7.30pm10.30pm; Tues-Sat 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm10.30pm. €€. www.ristorantecasaamelie.com. Via Giulio, 4/b. T: 011 5211579. Map E2
Cianci Piola Caffè A real institution in Turin, this bustling ‘piola’ (a typical, laid-back Piedmontese tavern) offers authentic regional dishes at unbeatable prices. With tables spilling out onto the square in warmer months, this delightful locale in the heart of the Quadrilatero Romano, serves Fassona beef tartare, ‘vitello tonnato’, ‘tajerin’ (a thin version of tagliatelle), ‘agnolotti’ and a vegetable-based Piedmontese antipasto which includes tomatoes, anchovies and peppers in a sauce, accompanied by a great selection of wines. Open 12.30pm3.30pm/6.30pm-11pm. €€. Largo 4 Marzo, 9/b, T: 388 8767003. Map F3
Consorzio In the heart of the quaint Quadrilatero Romano, Consorzio offers traditional cuisine, sometimes re-imagined with a twist, featuring ‘Made-in Piedmont’ ingredients including Piedmontese beef, Cervere leeks, the hunchback thistles of Nizza Monferrato and freshly picked, gardengrown vegetables. A harmonious combination that pays tribute to customers, chefs, breeders, farmers and wine growers. Its cheeses, sourced from the best local producers, with a few forays into the rest of Italy, France or Britain for a taste of Stilton, deserve a separate mention. Open MonFri 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm-11pm; Sat 7.30pm11pm. €€. ristoranteconsorzio.it. Via Monte di Pietà, 23. T: 011 2767661. Map E3
È Cucina This charming restaurant owned by theatrical Florentine chef Cesare Maretti features brightly lit windows overlooking the street, contemporary décor and an open-plan kitchen, now a popular contemporary concept in Northern Italy. The chef’s underlying philosophy is based on the search for premium-quality ingredients with a
Michelin-starred restaurants Turin boasts four starred Michelin restaurants, true pillars of Piedmontese cuisine. Get ready for your new restaurant to-do list. By Livia Fioravanti CASA VICINA Located in the basement of Eataly, with a separate entrance from via Nizza, Casa Vicina celebrates the gastronomic tradition of a famous family of Piedmont restaurateurs with an array of fabulous dishes that are distinguished by the meticulous choice of ingredients and impeccable presentations. Although the menu features the names of classical dishes of Piedmont and Italian culinary tradition, remember that at this family-run locale simplicity was rewarded with a Michelin star. Casa Vicina also boasts one of the best wine lists in Italy, with a selection that encompasses every major wine-growing region. Via Nizza 224 c/o Eataly Lingotto. T: 011 19506840. www.casavicina.com DEL CAMBIO Set against the sophisticated backdrop of the pedestrian area of piazza Carignano, Del Cambio, which opened in 1757, is not only a restaurant but a piece of history. Following an in-depth renovation, the famous 18th century ‘salotto’, the favourite haunt of Italian politician and entrepreneur, Count Cavour, re-opened in 2014 under the stewardship of chef Matteo Baronetto. Restored to its former splendour, the ‘salotto’ has once again become a symbol of Savoy elegance and gastronomic sophistication: a perfect blend of tradition and the authentic flavours of Piedmontese cuisine and innovation. In addition to the restaurant, other highlights include the Bar Cavour, a sophisticated cocktail bar, where the kitchen stays open until late at night, the nearby Farmacia del Cambio which offers delectable pastries created exclusively by Fabrizio Galla as well as Del Cambio products re-imagined by Matteo Baronetto. Informal, quick and contemporary, amidst its intricately carved wood panelling you’ll find a fabulous selection of sweet and savoury products which can either be sampled on-site or ordered to take away. Piazza Carignano, 2. T: 011 546690. www.delcambio.it
Vintage 1997
blend of Mediterranean and Piedmont tastes and influence, further enhanced by an excellent wine list. Located just steps from the Mole Antonelliana, the locale boasts a warm, cosy atmosphere, ideal for a refreshing break during a sightseeing tour of the city. In addition to the à la carte menu, make sure to try its four tasting menus named after the elements: Earth, Water, Air and Fire. Corso San Maurizio 61/b. T: 011 8126808. www.magorabin.com VINTAGE 1997 Vintage 1997 is the comfortable retreat of discerning diners in search of traditional Piedmontese fare prepared with healthy ingredients and an excellent wine list. At the end of 2017, its longtime chef Pierluigi Consonni handed over the reins to the locale’s owner Umberto Chiodi Latini who reorganized the kitchen staff: all talented professionals, who guaranteed the seamless transition into the restaurant’s new incarnation. The locale’s new chefs have continued to maintain the high quality of the traditional cuisine served here, while at the same time adding a few innovative touches to the dishes. Piazza Solferino 16/h. T: 011 535948/5136722.
Magorabin
MAGORABIN Thanks to the magical culinary skills of chef Marcello Trentini, Magorabin earned a Michelin star. Its dishes feature a skillful
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DINING particular focus on organic fruit and vegetables (all dishes are served with a side, at no additional charge) and conviviality. In the evening, guests can choose from a meat, fish or vegetarian menu, accompanied by homemade bread and focacce. Open Mon-Sun 12.30pm-3am/8pm-11pm; Sun 12 noon-3pm. €€. cesaremarretti.com. Via Bertola, 27/a. T: 011 5629038. Map E3
Filiberti-Vini e Fornelli A small bistro in the Quadrilatero Romano, infused with a decidedly French atmosphere. The menu is divided into small tapas-style antipasti (referred to here as ‘minuterie’) including Bao buns topped with brisket and barbecue sauce, codfish cheek with chard and a meat consommé. Mains include pastrami or ‘plin’ re-interpreted in a Mediterranean version with Provola cheese, eggplant and tomatoes, accompanied by an extensive wine list, including several natural varieties. Open Mon 7pm-11pm; Tues-Thurs 12 noon-2.30pm/7pm-11pm; Fri- Sat 12 noon2.30pm/7pm-midnight. €€. www.filibertiviniefornelli.it. Piazza Emanuele Filiberto, 6/a. T: 011 19173730. Map E2
Le Vitel Etonné The standout at this restaurant located in the heart of the centre is ‘vitello tonnato’, one of the great classics of Piedmont cuisine, an absolute must-try at its namesake restaurant. Other specialties include ‘tajerin’, a fresh pasta prepared according to a traditional recipe with 36 egg yolks per kilo of flour, served with an array of seasonal sauces, ‘tagliatelle’ with Bra sausage and ‘agnolotti al plin’. The locale’s 19th century cellar, featuring barrel vaults and open brick walls, hosts more than 300 labels. Open Tues-Sun 10.30ammidnight. €€€. www.leviteletonne.com. Via San Francesco da Paola, 4. T: 011 8124621. Map G4
Plin & Tajarin This is small eatery resembling an artist’s studio rather than a restaurant. The kitchen turns out small masterpieces like ‘plin’ and ‘tajerin’, the staples of Piedmont’s culinary tradition, which are available with numerous fillings and sauces, including vegan and vegetarian options. Before, after or as an accompaniment, diners can order meat from select Piedmont producers, delicious ‘focaccia’ made with stone-ground flour and traditional desserts, including amaretto ice cream. Open Mon-Sat 12.45pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 7.45pm10.30pm. €€€. www.plinetajarin.it. Via G. Casalis, 59. T: 011 3828128. Map B3
Porto di Savona One of the city’s oldest restaurants, Porto di Savona opened in 1863 when Turin was the capital of Italy. The restaurant is on the city’s beautiful Piazza Vittorio, and the warm interior is laid out like a 19th-century tavern, with Liberty-style decor, wooden boiserie, mirrors, 1940s furnishing accessories and walls decorated with period paintings and photographs. Its menu – don’t be misled by its name – features classic Piedmont cuisine including ‘vitello tonnato’, ‘agnolotti’, homemade pasta, braised meat, ‘fritto misto’, ‘bolliti’ (boiled meats), ‘Finanziera’ (a hearty dish of veal offal and cockscomb cooked with Marsala wine, vinegar and herbs) and, in winter ‘bagna cauda’. Open daily 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pmmidnight. foodandcompany.com. €€€. Piazza Vittorio Veneto, 2. T: 011 8173500. Map H5
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Scannabue Located in the trendy San Salvario district, Scannabue is extremely popular thanks to its warm, laid back atmosphere and its traditional, affordable cuisine, especially among the city’s young, hip crowd. In addition to classic regional recipes, including rabbit tuna, beef tartare and classic starters, it also serves a variety of fish dishes. Its wine list features a great selection of Piedmont labels including Arneis, Nebbiolo and Barbera. It’s advisable to book ahead. Open daily 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm-10.30pm. €€. scannabue. it. Largo Saluzzo, 25/h. T: 011 6696693. Map E7
Stefano Fanti al Circolo dei Lettori This unique restaurant is located at the Circolo dei Lettori, in the city’s 17th century Palazzo Graneri della Roccia. Formerly a private members club, the Circolo dei Lettori was a meeting place for Turin’s intellectuals, writers, poets and artists, seen in the rows of artist portraits that line the restaurant’s walls. Its traditional culinary offering is reinterpreted with a contemporary twist by chef Stefano Fantini. For an overview of regional specialties, make sure to try its tasting menu and, if you’re feeling bold, opt for the ‘Finanziera’. Open 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm-10.30pm. €€€. www.circololettori.it/il-ristorante. Via Bogino, 9. T: 011 4326828. Map G4
ETHNIC CUISINE Hafa Storie A Piedmont Moroccan restaurant. In Turin, this is fairly common because the city’s second largest foreign community is the Moroccan community, and the restaurant is located in Porta Palazzo, the city’s multi-ethnic district par excellence. While the Piedmontese offerings are created by Christian Milone, a young, talented starred chef hailing from Trattoria Zappatori in Pinerolo, the Moroccan dishes are prepared by Aicha the cook. Between a seven-vegetable couscous and a braise with polenta, this restaurant lays the foundations for a harmonious, productive cultural exchange. Open Tues-Fri 11am-3pm/5pm12.30am; Sat 10am-12.30am; Sun 11.30am-4.30pm. €€. hafastorie.it. Galleria Umberto I, 10/13. T: 011 19486765. Map F2
Kay Essenza Peruviana & Piscobar Located in the Crocetta district, this toplevel Peruvian restaurant is helmed by a team of young, knowledgeable staff. The menu embraces the traditional flavours of every region in Peru, from its coast to its mountains, right up to the Amazonian forests, interpreted with a gourmet twist. Signature dishes include Fassona beef tartare with fried marrow bone and spicy mayonnaise, marinated scallops and tapioca, ceviches and even a South American interpretation of Piedmont’s classic ‘bagnetto verde’ (green sauce), accompanied by a carefully selected choice of Piedmont wines. Open Tues-Sat 12 noon-2.45pm/7pm-10.30pm; Sun 12 noon-2.45pm. €€. kayessenzaperuvianapiscobar. business.site. Via E. Torricelli, 59. T: 011 5096002. Map F2
Oh Crispa! If you’re looking for Chinese street food that’s as good as any you’ll find in Shanghai, then you’ve come to the right place. The kitchen is headed by a Chinese/Asti couple who prepare Chinese crepes stuffed with meat, Tofu or vegetables, the
by now ubiquitous Baos, steamed buns filled with pork or crab, artisanal ravioli in broth, and specials that vary from day to day. All the dishes featured on the menu are made from carefully selected, strictly Piedmontese ingredients. Open Tues 6.30pm-11pm; Wed-Sat 12.30pm-3pm/6.30pm11pm; Sun 12.30pm-3pm/6.30pm-10.30pm. Via Belfiore, 16bis/d. €. T: 339 6112705. Off Map
Oriental Daily by Kiki In addition to classic sushi, sashimi and tempura, this fusion restaurant also serves spicy meat and fish curries, ramen, steaming noodles, Pad Thai, steamed ravioli, tartare, tataki and other creatives dishes. Indulge your sweet tooth with one of the venue’s original desserts including Azuki bean ice cream and sweet Chawanmush, an egg custard dish filled with cherries and wild berries. Excellent value for money. Open Mon-Fri 12.30pm-2.30pm/7pm10.30pm; Sat 7pm-10.30pm. €€. www.orientaldaily.it. Via Cesana, 72. T: 011 4470067. Off Map
PIZZA A Casa di Pulcinella An informal locale which, as its name suggests, serves a fabulous Neapolitan pizza, accompanied by a wide selection of craft and other beers. Thanks to a natural, slow-leavening process, the pizza dough is light, tasty and easy to digest. Ingredients include the classics for which Neapolitan pizza is renowned but also those of traditional Italian regional cuisine, ranging from a Margherita topped with Bufala Campana mozzarella to a version with Moncalieri sausage. Open Tues-Sat 12pm-3pm/6.30pm-10.30pm. €€. www.acasadipulcinella.it. Corso Rosselli, 82. T: 011 595457. Off Map
Bakery Restaurant & Pizza Tucked away in a peaceful area of the city, not far from the Porta Nuova station, this pizzeria/ restaurants boasts a wood-fired oven that turns out a slow-rising, Neapolitan-style pizza, featuring a soft, crunchy dough and high-quality ingredients. Diners can choose from among a variety of classic toppings, with a few regional references including sausage and ‘friarelli’ (broccoli rabe), or gorgonzola, pears and walnuts. Its well-stocked cellar boasts a number of highly select labels from Italy’s best wine producers. Open Mon-Fri 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm-11pm; Sat 7.30pm-11pm. €€. www.bakerytorino.it. Via Avigliana, 47/a. T: 011 4337074. Map B3
Crudo fa la Pizza! Crudo is an award-winning food company, boasting two osterie and a bistro in the city, renowned for their fresh high-quality ingredients, sourced from only the finest producers. It has now taken on the challenge of making one of Italy’s best-loved dishes. Nineteen different versions of pizza take diners on a culinary journey that encompasses the whole of the peninsula, from Favignana with Siccagno tomatoes, anchovy fillets, Mediterranean tuna fillets, capers and Sicilian olive oil to Aosta, with mozzarella, Fontina d’Aosta Dop and hand-sliced artisanal ham. Open daily 12 noon-3pm/7pm-11pm. €€. pizza.crudotorino.com. Via Palazzo di Città, 7/d. T: 340 2494060. Map F3
Gusto Madre Pizza is experiencing a renaissance. From a dish of the people to a gourmet specialty, interpreted with numerous dough varieties, flours and ingredients. If you’re feeling overwhelmed by all
DINING
Piedmont food glossary
BAGNA CAUDA This typical winter specialty consists of a sauce made from garlic, extra virgin olive oil and anchovies, to which butter, milk and chopped nuts can also be added. Bagna Cauda is served in a terracotta pot and used as a dip for raw or cooked seasonal vegetables. If, on the one hand, it encourages conviviality, on the other, especially if you’ve overdone the garlic, you might find people avoiding you because you reek of it!
PIEDMONTESE GRAN BOLLITO MISTO This elaborate dish of mixed boiled meats is made from seven cuts of Piedmontese veal, including the thigh muscle, shoulder and breast, and seven ‘improvers’, tongue, musetto (a pork sausage made in part from a pig’s snout) and a game hen, cooked for several hours in boiling water. It is accompanied by seven tasty sauces, and a side of vegetables. One of the favourite dishes of Camillo Benso, Count of Cavour, and Vittorio Emanuele, Piedmont’s ‘bollito misto’ even has its own brotherhood.
Vitello Tonnato
Bagna Cauda
A Bain Marie, or hot water bath, is a slow, natural culinary technique that is used to cook delicate foods, over a low temperature, using the steam the Bain Marie creates. It preserves the softness of the dessert and facilitates the formation of a delicious crust on its surface.
VITELLO TONNATO This classic ‘antipasto’ of Piedmont cuisine is made from poaching the ‘girello’ cut of ‘Fassona’ veal (a prized Piemontese breed of veal) in a stock with aromatic herbs and white wine, sliced thinly and served cold with a traditional sauce made from tuna fish, egg yolks, capers, extra virgin olive oil, white wine, lemon juice, salt and pepper.
Bagna Cauda
BONET Bonet, pronounced bunet, is a soft, rich, deliciously old-fashioned dessert that can be eaten with a spoon. Bonet is made from sugar, eggs, milk, cocoa, rum and dry amaretti biscuits. An unusual feature of this recipe is that it’s baked in a Bain Marie in the oven.
PHOTO © VALENTINO CAZZANTI SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
PHOTO © TENNIS/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
PIEDMONTESE MIXED FRY This uniquely rich local specialty of Piedmont consists of a combination of fried liver, lungs, brain, sweetbreads, liver veins, a slice of veal, sausage, sweet semolina, amaretti biscuits and apples, accompanied by pan-fried carrots or mixed vegetables. Not a dish for the faint-hearted.
AGNOLOTTI DEL PLIN These small filled ‘pouches’ are made with a thin sheet of dough, stuffed with a filling of braised meat (usually a mixture of beef, veal or pork) and Swiss chard, dressed with the pan juices of the braised meat, or butter and sage. The name ‘plin’ derives from the regional dialect for ‘pinch’ because to form each agnolotto you pinch the two sheets of pasta together.
Piedmontese Mixed Fry
PHOTO © GIOVANNI BOSCHERINO SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
From a gastronomic viewpoint, the region of Piedmont boasts some of Italy’s finest, most diverse traditional foods. It is therefore no surprise that the worldfamous ‘Slow Food’ association, an international, non-profit organization committed to giving food back its proper value, was born here. It is also here that the Italian University of Gastronomic Sciences, the first, and possibly only, ‘university of taste’ in the world, was established. The amazing raw materials offered by the Piedmontese region include meat, cheese, wine and truffles, and are the basic ingredients used to create deliciously rich, tasty recipes. We’ve compiled a list of several Made in Piedmont dishes that are absolute must-tastes. By Chiara Zaccarelli
Bonet
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DINING
Pastry shops The traditional/age-old art of pastry making is deeply rooted in Turin, and the city’s confectionery is famous throughout the world. Sweet treats like ‘baci di dama’, marron glacés and ‘giandujotti’ were invented here and exported abroad, while others, which are more inherently Piedmontese, are well worth discovering. It’s therefore no surprise that the city is inundated with top-level pastry shops. Although it’s impossible to mention them all, we’ve compiled a list of several that are rated top in town. By Chiara Zaccarelli CAFFÈ PLATTI If you visit just one of Turin’s historic locales, then it has to be the illustrious, belle epoque Caffè Platti. Opened in 1870, it soon became a social and cultural reference point for 20th century Turin. Here, amidst mirrors, gilded stuccoes, inlaid walnut furniture and gold Louis XVI medallions, you can sample Piedmontese specialties like ‘bunet’, Meliga pastries, ‘bignole’ and Platti cake. Since 2017, the confectionery has been run by renowned patissier Guido Gobino, the king of Torinese chocolate. www.platti.it Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 72. T: 011 4546151.
centre, is another go-to destination to start (or end) your day on a sweet note. It’s famous for its ‘marocchino’ (coffee served in a small glass cup, with a dark chocolate base, topped with foamed milk and a sprinkling of bitter cocoa powder), but also its ‘briosche’, including its custard-filled ‘torciglione’ with a hint of lemon, and its Umbertino, a biscuit resembling a ‘bacio di dama’ but with, a double layer of chocolate and two amaretti instead of shortcake. Via Monte di Pietà, 22. T: 011 541592.
PASTICCERIA VENIER Pasticceria Venier, located in the heart of the
TORTERIA BERLICABARBIS In dialect, ‘Berlicabarbis’ means to ‘lick your lips’. A particularly apt name for a pastry shop that turns out approximately 20 different cakes a day, including cheesecake, tarts filled with custard and fresh fruit, Renetta apple caked and ricotta and pear tarts. The venue is infused with a warm, homely Provence-style atmosphere where, amidst cast iron teapots, French tin boxes, brightly-coloured cups and vintage trays, you can purchase traditional Savoy biscuits, flower-based preserves, Leone candies and fruit preserved in honey. Vegan options are also available. berlicabarbis.com Corso Moncalieri, 214. T: 011 2074508. Via Catania, 10. T: 011 231032
these options, there are places, like Gusto Madre, that will remove any doubt. Ingredients bestowed by Mother Nature, processed to a minimum and combined with the creativity and skill inherent in time-honoured dough-making techniques, are the reasons for the success of this healthy, easyto-digest, multi-award winning pizza. Open from Wednesday to Monday. €€. www.gustomadre.it. Via G. Mazzini, 31/A T: 011 18894434. Map G6
based batter, without eggs or milk, these mouthwatering waffles are deliciously light and topped with either sweet or savoury ingredients while you wait. Make sure to try the house special whose batter is mixed with cooked bacon and served with rocket leaves and Philadelphia cream cheese. Open Mon-Sat 11.30am-7.30pm. €. www.gofriemiassepiemontesi.it. Via San Tommaso, 7. T: 349 3926090. Map F4
TASTING EXPERIENCE & STREET FOOD
Mollìca
GHIGO This historic pastry shop, located just steps from the Mole, is famous for its hot chocolate, served with freshly whipped cream and marrons glacés (a candied chestnut covered with a sugar glaze). At Christmas, Ghigo excels itself with its famous ‘Nuvola di Ghigo’, a traditional ‘Pandoro’ covered with a butter icing and a generous sprinkling of icing sugar. www.pasticceriaghigo.it Via Po, 52/b. T: 011 887017.
Gofreria piemonteisa If you feel like a quick, light snack while strolling around piazza Castello, then make sure to stop at Gofreria Piemontese. Based on a time-honoured tradition, ‘gofri’ are the ‘relatives’ of the more famous Belgian ‘gaufres’. Made from a yeast36 W H E R E T U R I N I N O V E M B E R 2018
Cooked salame from Monferrato, double lard, hand-massaged Parma ham, Toma d’alpeggio cheese with pepper and creamy gorgonzola. At Mollica, in piazza Madama Cristina, you can choose to have your sandwich filled with these or numerous other ingredients, all sourced exclusively from small local Piedmont and Italian producers. The bread is also heavenly! Whether you opt for the ‘spaccatella’, the ‘morbidoso’ or the ‘focacciona’, there’s no way
FARMACIA DEL CAMBIO A sophisticated Savoy-style ‘salotto’, created in the rooms of an old apothecary established in 1883, in the city’s beautiful piazza Carignano. Here, you’ll find a fabulous assortment of pastries by chef Fabrizio Galla including Veneziane, Sfogliatine, almond and orange cakes, bignès, ‘bonet’, fruit tartlets, millefeuille, hazelnut cakes and croissants. Also worth mention are the locale’s savoury offerings which include sandwiches, savoury snacks, crusty bread, bagels and more. A great place for lunch or an aperitivo. farmaciadelcambio.it. Piazza Carignano, 2. T: 011 19211250.
Torteria Berlicabarbis
that you can go wrong because they’re all supplied by historic Torinese bakery Andrea Bertino. Open Mon-Fri 12 noon-3pm/7pm-10pm; Sat 12 noon4pm/7pm-10.30pm. €. Piazza Madama Cristina, 2 bis. T: 333 7446737. Map F7
Street Fish Although this might seem strange in a city like Turin, the best place to go for a good, fusion-style fish dish is Street Fish, a venue renowned for its delicious fish dishes and informal atmosphere. Options on offer include fish tartare served in a corn tacos, ceviches, fish balls, a Hawaiian-style fish bowl, Thai noodles and house specials based on the catch of the day. Half of this small space is occupied by an open-plan kitchen that allows you to watch the chefs at work, while the other half features high counters with stools. Open daily 12 noon-3pm/7pm11pm. €. Via Conte G. Bogino, 4. T: 389 0010612. Map F5
BRESSO
PARCO NORD
NOVEMBER GUIDE A dialogue of art
EXHIBITION After 3 years, the set-up of Pinacoteca di Brera is finally complete and is celebrated with a special exhibition developed around the differences and analogies in the painting style of two masters of Naturalism: Ingres and Hayez. Important loans, such as the Portrait of Madame Gonse by Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres, the Portrait of Selene Taccioli Ruga by Francesco Hayez and the gypsum bust of Anna Maria Virginia Buoni by Lorenzo Bartolini highlight the vision of women in the 19th century and their role in the society, providing also different interpretations of naturalist painting. › ATTORNO A INGRES E HAYEZ | 4 October 2018 – 20 January 2019 Pinacoteca di Brera, via Brera 28 www.pinacotecabrera.org
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MILANO MUSIC WEEK
GRANDART MODERN & CONTEMPORARY FINE ART FAIR
SERIE A LEAGUE: SESTO SANMILAN GIOVANNI – JUVENTUS Cristiano Ronaldo and his Juventus FC arrive on the football field of San Siro Stadium for the highly awaited match against AC Milan.
Hayez
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A full week of initiatives, concerts and meetings spread all over the city, including bars and clubs, with important participations from the Italian and international music scene. › 19 - 25 November Different locations www.milanomusicweek.it
60 international art galleries, a section dedicated to publishing and a space designed to host cultural events are some of the innovations of the 2nd edition of the fair dedicated to modern and contemporary art. › 9 – 11 November The Mall, piazza Lina Bo Bardi www.grandart.it
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Lago di Lugano Lago di Como
Lago di Garda Lago d’Iseo
Bergamo
MILANO
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VENEZIA Ferrara Piacenza
Mar Adriatico
BOLOGNA
GENOVA
Mar Ligure
The world of leonardo da Vinci Exhibition with codices, machines, paintings and drawings
Pisa
Ventimiglia
Piazza della Scala Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II
FIRENZE
Luxury one-day trips from Milan
T: 02 5353 - www.etaxy.it T: 02 4040 - www.taxiblu.it T: 02 4000 - www.024000.it
Reservation and payment by “MyTaxy” app. www.mytaxy.com
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Brescia Verona
TRIESTE
280 km
Novara km
Alessandria
T: 02 7777 T: 02 8585 - www.028585.it T: 02 6969 - www.yellowtaxi.it
Etaxy Taxi Blu Radio Taxi Freccia MyTaxy
Airports
the
Lago Maggiore
Lugano Mendrisio
2 TORINO
Taxi Single booking number (connecting the Taxi parking areas) AutoradioTaxi Radio Taxi
Taxi fixed fares: € 95 € 65 € 105 € 55
Malpensa Airport – Milan (any location): Malpensa Airport – Fiera Milano (Rho): Malpensa Airport – Linate Airport: Linate Airport – Fiera Milano (Rho):
Milano Malpensa (45 km from the centre of Milan - A8 direction Varese). Flight and bus info T: 02 232323. www.sea-aeroportimilano.it Luxury Gallery–One of the largest shopping area in Europe, can be accessed by all passengers (whether travelling to a Schengen or a non-Schengen destination) and hosts about 100 sales spaces, including restaurants, bars and some of the greatest luxury brands in the world.
SPECIAL TOURS CitySightseeing Milano
www.leonardo3.net tel. 02.495.199.81
TRAINS Milan offers fast-track access to major cities across Italy thanks to its high-speed trains.
VENICE 2 hours 35 min
BOLOGNA 1 hour
FLORENCE 1 hour 40 min
TURIN 55 min
ROME 2 hours 55 min NAPLES 4 hours 15 min
TRENITALIA
T: 02 72494949
TRENORD
T: 892020
ITALO High Speed Rail
T: 892021
National Railway Company
www.trenitalia.com www.italotreno.it www.trenord.it
Malpensa Express | Regional & Suburban Railway
Milano Linate (6 km from the centre of Milan). Flight information 24h-24h T: 02 232323 (call center). www.sea-aeroportimilano.it
T: 02 867131 www.milano.citysightseeing.it
Orio al Serio (45 km from the centre of Milan – A4 direction Bergamo). Flights and bus info 24h-24h. T: 035 326323. www.orioaeroporto.it.
Lookals T: 02 40031173 www.lookals.com
Tourist Information InfoMilano - Tourist Information Office Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II corner of piazza della Scala. T: 02 88455555. Mon-Fri 9am-7pm / Sat 9am-6pm; Sun and holidays 10am-6pm.
www.milanopentour.com
Milan Visitor Center
Largo Cairoli, 18 ( Cairoli). Central Station, Ground Level ( PARCO FORLANINI Centrale). T: 02 867131. Tourist information; Luxury Outlet Official M1
Segway
T: 02 36504313
M2 M3
Shuttle Bus; CitySightseeing Tour; City Tours; Day trips and excursions; Multilingual support; Ticket desk; The Milan Pass. www.zaniviaggi.com
www.segwaytourmilan.it
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ENTERTAINMENT
JAZZMI 500 artists and over 210 events enliven the city for 13 days with the notes of Jazz music. The programme of the festival includes concerts, workshops, talks and meet and greats with the artists. › 1 – 13 November Different locations. www.jazzmi.it
CARAVAGGIO OLTRE LA TELA
A multimedia experience blending innovative technology and entertainment, featuring the reproduction of 40 works by Caravaggio that have never been viewed by the public. › 6 October 2018 – 27 January 2019 Museo della Permanente, via F. Turati 34 www.caravaggiomilano.it www.lapermanente.it
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VESPERBILD – ALLETEATRO VIA EXHIBITION ARCIMBOLDI GRE LLINI ORIGINI DELLA PIETÀ ETA GOR ARME VIA VOCHIERI VIA MON VIA OVIU DI MICHELANGELO VIA E. MAJ PICASSO. METAMORFOSI S 10 The exhibition tells the story of ORA VIA Pablo Picasso, a master of VIA SEMERIA LI VIA NA I RAC PASTRO GRIO CISLAGHI Vesperbild (in Italian known as POZZUOL VIA VIA CON contemporary art, is narrated LAI VIA IGI I VIA RUCEL VIA ZAMBRINI “Pietà”) through two centuries, CIRIÈthrough VIA VIA his relationship with LLIN ATI DEMO VIA VIA LINATI RSE from the 14th-century wooden VIGN olden days, thanks VIA DON LUIGI GUANELLA VIA VIPITENO GIRO myth and theNTE VIA SCA sculptures of the Rhine valley LA to a comparison between VIA VIA POMPEO VIA FRATELLI BRESSAN DI FIEMME VIA VAL NO up to Michelangelo’s Pietà NON masterpieces and drawings by VIA VIA VAL DI BAVE MONCALIERI LI VIA Vaticana. O VIA Picasso and works of ancient art. A ZIO I VAL RICORD OGLI MAIRA DEL MARIA VAL CAMONICA VIA ERODOTO PIAZZALE ZZ 500 m VIA VIA B. GRA VIA › 13 OctoberCO2018 – CAND MARTESANA › 18 VIA October 2018 – 17 LIO SALV VIA À TREVIG DE EMILIO VIA DON ATO 13 January 2019 MARTI 2019 LICIT PRIV. VIAL February VIA CAROLI RE VIA ITO NO CI SEMP E CÀ PIAN INO VIA CastelloVIA Sforzesco, sale VIA ISOCRATE MEUC VIA Palazzo Reale, FRATTI AUS VIA TEOCR ELL GRA VIA CEVED VIA VIA VIA CASALP I VIA Z ONIO NDAdel Duomo 12. dell'Ospedale TREV USSI Spagnolo, piazza MICH piazza ALE VIA O COSEN VIA O ZUB E VIA ELE IANI VIMERCAT Castello LUXE DE www.palazzorealemilano.it VIA ENRIC VIA ASIAG LARGO DO DA ANGE MBUR RAPALLO VIA PIRANO STEFANAR LIS G www.milanocastello.it VIA NO O BIUMI VIA VAL VIA VIA VIA AFFI ASIAG CISMON NI GUARI MATTE PAD IO SCHI MOON: TIME VIA DIA IGLESIAS RE L. SARAH UCCINI VIA VAL VIA MONZA VIA BRIV TANARO DI NIEVOLE VIA PRIVATA CAN REAL BODIES FINZI VIA MON VIA PRIV. AT WORK | FROM ONE NBANO VIA FALCONI ENTERTAINMENT After his latest album “Carioca” (2007),VIApianist, TI The educational exhibition of VIA POZZI SEASON TO ANOTHER I GIAX LARGO VIA NUORO songwriter and composer VIA Stefano Bollani makes his comeback to ALLEGRI VIA TOWER E UCC human anatomy is back with a VIA IANI BERTELLI GALLIA tribute to the French PIAZZALE PRO BOTTEL DIN VERD LARGO the Milanese with his newly issued album “Que Bom”, VIA music NO scene VIA PADRE R. GIULIANI TE CAND LI It features ALI VIA BAL new display format. NIZZA CON photographer and filmmaker PUECHER DESIO NEV VIA conjuring up Brazilian acoustics and PO the best piano notes. The concert, VIA VIA VIA PALLA VIA over 50 bodies, VIA CUMA CAR VIA 450 human and I PIGELLO Sarah Moon through two LIO IA POLICAR ZURICH VIA ABBA AGO Jorge part of the JazzMi programme, stars also Brazilian musicians VIA ROMUSSI NZA VIA VIA FUGG VIA BROG PIAZZA CIA TONI andPIAZZA HEAD animal organs 30 human BET PIAZZALE VIA E RDA VIA GRECO parallel exhibitions: the first is OFFICE VIA BAUSAN VIA Helder, Jurim VIA V I A J A Moreira, Armando Marçal and Thiago da Serrinha. T VIA CO ISTRIA AGGIOR relics inspired by the drawings URES ATI BONOMI ANE set at Galleria Sozzani, the latter TINI SALSOM E SUBIA VIA TTI RANC PIAZZA TOF › STEFANO BOLLANI | VIA 9 November, from 9pm VIA M A VIA CAN VIA COLLEGNO byVIALeonardo da Vinci. VIA POPULO INARI VIA CASERTA LUCINI CUFR at Armani/Silos. PERO VIA DELLA MER MACIACHINI VIA PREST NIA VIA Conservatorio di Milano - Sala Verdi, via Conservatorio TORRE VIA VIA CENTER ELLO VIA BESOZZI RTA12. NA VIA › FromKOY6 October TO › 19 September 2018 VIA RICCION ELO VIA ASMARA I VALTO VIA SLATAPER SAN GENISIO VIA CAIAN www.jazzmi.it VIA TAORMI E VA SEL VIA MONTE ANGBON BETS Ventura XV, ON VIA BOIARDO LE RAFAEL Spazio RÈ VIA DEI 6 January 2019 LI TRU UG I VIA DEL VIA SAN ANDE RA C H DE VIA VIA CAFIERO A via Giovanni DELLE Ventura 6 VIA RHO VIA I I PIO Galleria Carla Sozzani, I VALTORT VILLAN PIAZZA VIA VIA BIRAGHI VIA DELLA VIA PACIFICO VIA PAPA VIA DEI VIA BETTINO GIUSTIZ VIA www.realbodies.it LVIN PP O DA TREZZO corso Como 10 VIDA CASTELLI M. TI IA G. I PIAZZALE SCA PRAMPOLINI VIA PRINETPIATVIA VIA ATE VIA PIAZZA VIA TOL www.galleriacarlasozzani.org BUDUA VIA I LUGANO PIAZZA NE VIA VIA VIA I NO MACIACHINI “THE LAST SUPPER” GH PANTALEONI GIO Armani/Silos,FARINA via Bergognone 40 LE LA VAN RA VIA ANACREONTE BO NO VIA COLAUTTI AT THE CENACOLO VIA RUSSO CO NE NI VIA AJ www.armani.com/silos VIA NTI DIO PON ENNER VIA LE ER ISSO E. MAJ A LA DEL VINCIANO MA TAN VIALE J PROGR MA A ARD VI BRA CU O VIA RCH ORA ESSO VI VIA Zani Viaggi organizes ongoing shuttles to top fashion outlets, VIA BOLZANO VIA POI In the hall of Leonardo’s fresco it RESS NA UNITI BA E THE BLACK IMAGE VIA VIA VIA POPOLI HI CAM I FIOR VIA VIA the shopping malls Shuttles depart SPOL VIADEI E is possibleVIAto visit ‘First ideas for NZAGVIA TURRO VIACORPORATION TI and the design districts.BELLI IERI CA ETO VIA MORANDI FRA LE AL PIAZZA GLI LI ART the Last Supper’: from theLANCET centre of Milan and from the Stazione Centrale NCE VIA ZUC 7 preparatory VIALE VIA MA selection from four PREALPI LI VI ROVERETO An artist VIA TICEL ERO VIA MARTIRI OSCURI SCO RCH CO DEG MON O drawings by Leonardo and 3 of NAV (to Serravalle Designer Outlet, Il Centro and Scalo LI E VIA millions of images that have PIAZZAMilano). 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LE RIO VI CA €20 NC TI A 13 January 2019 SC SONEmanuele II ZUB (9am from Centrale) GE Designer Outlet CE VIA Galleria Vittorio PIAZZALE RIS VI IANI LEO ONE Arrival in Cairoli: 5.45pm DRI CE RT EU SEGRINO VIA I STA INO SIM Cenacolo Vinciano, piazza Santa O VIA CAMBIASI PASTE DEN OS www.fondazioneprada.org AN PE ZIOVIA PIAZZALE AR CALV UR POR A I Maria delle Grazie, 2 CI FR VIA VIA LUIGI PORRO BASSI HI AN DO VIA VIA LAGOSTAVIA FoxTown 10am A IN LAMBERTENGHI VIA PIAZZA GR AR CC €20 VI HOLOCAUST PR POL www.cenacolovinciano.net TI RN Factory StoresVIA UGO VIA MONZA Arrival in Cairoli: 6.30pm TON BA CU VIA DURANTE VIA CASORETTO A VIA BE MEMORIALFINZI A A TIT VIA TTA IGLOOS NBANO CIMITERO N A ALE VI DELLA ANGELO RR LE VIA SPALATO PE PERGOLA VIA PIAZZA VI SA GL SE VIA BIANCO VIA WILDT PIAZZA FALLOPPIO 10am The spaces of the Navate display PIAZZA BR VIAEVENTS IA VIA JACOPO VIA FIRENZE VIA CENISIO CANEVA VIA DIOCLEZIANO MONUMENTALE Serravalle PIAZZA LE DAL VERME CENISIO IAN VIA SEBENICO (9.30am from Centrale) €20 PIE I CORIOLANO EA 30 different igloos created PIAZZALE Designer Outlet PRO PIAZZA R ZA VIA ABANO LARGO VIA A DR ND Arrival in Cairoli: 6.30pm LUI IV NOVEMBRE IERI PALAZZO NIZZA AN NN between 1968 and 2003 by BIO BOOK DESIO VIA VIA PASTRENGO GI LOMBARDIA PER CITY MILANO SO VIA CONFALON SA G. 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A RIN VAN VIA O DEL VIA GAETANO I GIUISTRIA FONDAZIONE GOBET TI ST EM IBE OR CAIAZZO VI PIAZZA FR VIA CANZIO PIAZZA BORR metal structures covered VAPORE using I to books and reading featuresA VIA SEP CATELLA STAZIONE LUIGI DI PIAZZA CA ENRICO VIA FIL AN ZZE OME OD VIA TAZZOLI PE SAVOIA PER PIAZZA BOT TINI VIA PECCHIO CASERTA O with various materials, is aPIAZZA 11am Franciacorta GARIBALDI RZO dialogues, workshops, TE DUCA CE VIA VIA VALLA GOL VIA VALLAZZE €20 O PIAZZA DAMIANO U PIRELLI D’AOSTA E SC Arrival in Cairoli: 7pmAREA Outlet VIA Village QUADRIO metaphor of theVIA relationship V I A E ST exhibitions, VIA events andESIthemed CHIESA IAN GERUSALEMME AL INI A VIA SLATAPER PORTA L DANTE VIA VIA PROCACCINI ZEZVIA VIA EX ENEL VI NUOVA PE PAG LIZ ADDAthe various MERCA PAC A between ONmeanings hosted VIA LOMONACO VIA TR VIA within VIA performances ANIN PO VIA NI ON HI 11am VIA VIA EL AMIN VIA VIA LA VIA CI ALESSI of “inside” and “outside”. 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Arrival in Cairoli: 4pm VIA O VO LA VIA MILANI OC I PIAZZALE CAP DE TT BOS ERA LLE BE AN VIA CRI SA SPO PORTA VIALE PASU PIAZZA S TO ELL INI PELL I SSO IO CO O SA COV PRPIAZZA 24ZIO February 2019 › 15 – 18 November FOR LUGANO PIAZZA NTI CC VOLTA IS INI DO BAZ A GRAMSCI VIA BIO FARINA ICH PAC SSO MACIACHINI NE VIA VIA PAISIELL VIA NI MICO PAOLO SARPI ZO VIALE LARGO VI MO TRE LFO VIA 11am Pirelli HangarBicocca, via Chiese 2 Serravalle Different locations VIA VIA VIA ZENOIA CRISPI UZ (10.30am from Centrale) VIA Designer GADDA DO VIA FILE PIAZZALE PIAZZA VIALE MONTEGRAPPA€25 I DR MA Outlet GIORGIONE VIA VIA XXV APRILE www.bookcitymilano.it AT VIA VIA BACONE GUERCINO ArrivalBRUNO in Cairoli: RCO www.hangarbicocca.org VIA E N N E R PRINA MA LA ILEI LE 9pm VIALE DUILIO LARGO VIA DONATELLO PIAZZALE SC SINI VIAL PIAZZA BASTIO V I AVIA L E J VIA GIOIA SAN MA GAL DOMODOSSOLA VIA VIA GIUSTI VIA BAS LARGO E MON NI DI MO PIOLA CU LIMA RCH MUSEO RESIDENZE FAR VIA POLO PORTA VIA VIA MEDICI 1pm GR FoxTown VIA BA E VIA O NUOVA TE SAN MAC NET VIA BONARDI EG VIA CCI VIA ARD €20 MA VIA I VIA SANSOVINO GIANNONE GIULI OR Arrival in Cairoli: 8.30pm Factory LIBESKIND ISOZAKI TO VIA VIA Stores RU TIR. TA RSA ELFID CA VA VIA VIA ANO ANO IO VIA LUIVIA ALFIERI FRA A. AN LE VIA GLI FER LANCET DELLA LA CAST ARI NCE VIA PRATIVIALE PIAZZA F. M GI VIA PIAZZA EO FUC LE CA MA STRA VIALAS ERO EL PIAZZA CANCES VIAVIA VIA TRE TORRI SCO ZI 1.30pm RCH INI LEONARDO POLITECNICO FATEBENESOR REPUBBLICA LINN A VIA VELA TU SAT I PLVIA D BIANCAMANO VIL VA ON NAV Serravalle LARGOE ELLE CITY LIFE DA VINCI VIA VIA VIA INI VIA CIRILLO (1pm EN RI NI PIAZZA VIA Centrale) VIA VIA A ICA €20 VIA PARINI NÖE VIA DI PORTA LA FOPPA PIAZZA L from VIA GUERRINI I PIAZZA LE SIA O SS PAL Designer Outlet VIA ICO VIA ARDUINO VIATENAGLIA DIN RED CAS BAS VIT 6 FEBBRAIO Arrival in Cairoli: 9.45pm DELLA E ZI A CARBONARI NI VIA AZZ ENR ELV BRO MA RAR TAL I G. TIO TOR MOSC I PIAZZALE VIA GIOVANNI CELORIA LE VIALE RTA VIA GGI A DI GHE OVA NI IO VEN STE BE 2pm VIA DIACONO LAVATER CAZZANIGA KEP RESIDENZE VI DI HI VIA VIA PIAZZA LVIO ScaloVIAMilano RESIDENZE LER POR ETO VIA (1.30pm from Centrale) LIBESKIND OCC VIA VIA Free LE VIA SANGIORGIO PIAZZA SEMPIONE O HADID MAI TA STO Outlet LI ARCO Courtesy ATM DEI REG VIA &VIAmore LARGO L. S. 35 7.30pm VEN Arrival in Cairoli: PPA VIA VIA VIA CO DELLA VIA VILLA LU VOLONTARI VIA A. SPINOLA S MANTEGAZZA LARGO PALERM TREVES SAU SENOFONTE INA HAY PACE NI PA VIALE MONTEBELLO SIMONET TA NI II O 44 RO VIA FRISI PIAZZA O EZ AFRICA GIARDINI EZIA N I PLI I XV GI VIA NO LO AN OT TO AN ANF AN PIGH NE AL NIO GA 34 LARGO F.LLI PIAZZA VIA VIA RC OV NOVEMBRE AV ITEA PA A GOITO DO LEO GI MANGIAGALLI VIA VENEZIAN VIA STO GIO INDRO CERVI OBERDAN VIA MAL TRO 38 NC PPAN LPE VAN SHOPPING MALL PIAZZA VIA VIA VIA VIA 43 36 VO LEO ONE I NA LE IO 37 GIULIO CESARE 40 LARGO MONTANELLI DEN BOTTICELLI MIL VIA PIAZZA VIA STRAMBIO NO VIA PIAZZA BORGVIA VIA FATEBE O PIAZZA PIAZZALE RIO DE JANEIRO POR ASCOLI TON MARIA A. 11am, 12.30pm, 2pm, LE GAD VIA PAL HI HETTO PIAZZA 39 VIA DI SAVOIA VIA IAN NEFRA CAVOUR In addition to the metro (underground) system, VIA Il Centro S. MARCO IC EST 42 G. GIUSVIALE VIA INAMA 33LAGOSTA DEL 41 VIA VIA DELL’AN FIORI TELLI DA BRESCIA LARGO €5* PIAZZAVIA BIXIO VIA MORETTO B. TIZ 4.30pm, 6pm, 7.30pm VIA POL VIA TO RO TINIAMilan is also HOLOCAUST EN NUNCIA Shopping Mall VIA PONTACCIO SALVIA VEC by numerous tram and bus routes. OSCURI 8 POLITEC TIEcoveredSAR TON VIA NI 5° ALPINI DURANTE VIA NO VIA BIXIO TA MEMORIAL CHIARI A (From Centrale) PO CHIO VIN VIA DEL LO NCI OM VIA ALE NICO LE VIA C. FORLANINI I VIA SPALATO VIA FIORI O I CIMITERO 30 CARPOFOR A. GAI GRA PIAZZA ZA VIA VIAIOTT VIA VIA TICKET BR VIA DUSE E. VIA ATM O PISOVIA GRIZ LAN MONUMENTALE NO CA IAN VIA SEBENICO VIA AMADEO RIO PIE NI VIA ANGELICO AR CASTELLO VIA MODENA A PIAZZA VIA BELLOTTI GA I Local Public Transport PIAZZA R ZA TR INI E A ITO MA SFORZESCO IO PIAZZA LUI VIA MARIN IV NOVEMBRE NOVELLI PA Ordinary ticket Two-day ticket Tickets Day ticket IERI O V PALAZZO VIA CAPPUCCIN PE UR BR SPIR SELLA GI VIA LOMBARDIA VIA GI NN A BUONARROTI Company E GAD VIA CONFALON PER TO SO PRIMO PIAZZA MB EM VIA SAN IO À V IA DA SAN VIAL VI 1.50€ NO GUARDI 8.25€ to Rho Fieramilano: 4.50€ GOL VIA SACC VIA EG LOSA NN VIA PIAZZALE Ú SID O STAZIONE AC TA BOSCO VIA VIA PIET TT VIA CAN VIA AR A PAL ESI VIA PORPORA RR A OLI TR VERTICALE CAR HI VIA GES DI CENTRALE V ROSSINI LO ON VIA CARLO MILA GOLDONI CARLO GOLDONI VIAANTONIO LORETO VIA SE FER STAZIONE MONTE EG R I Valid for Valid 24h. Valid 48h. MVIA 2.50€ 7 VE DA 90 minutes. ALE EST DORIA MOZART DE CASTILLI M CO VIA CO GAL VIA DAN VIA NI DREA TRENORD G. TTO A. FABBRICA VIA DELL’ORSO EL IO 20 VA RAR A VIALE A GAETANO PIAZZA RIN VIA T’AN VAN VIA Unlimited travel VIA DEL DA (Malpensa DEL VIAExpress) U S A O VIA DEL LAUR I GIU FONDAZIONE CUSANI CUS CU (return ticket 5€) ST NZ CanVIAbe used on buses, Unlimited travel on A CAIAZZO IIA VI VIVAPORE PIAZZA SAN VIA V FFI ATM POINTS VIA BORR BURCHIELLO A VILLA NECCHI RO PIAZZALE I CATELLA VIA G. D’AREZZOGIU LUIGI DI on buses, trams BOITO VIA VIA CA SA O CAMPIGLIO SA SEPPE STAZIONE AN VIA VIA PIAZZA OME 6 trams or theVIALE metro ARGONNE buses, trams and the SSA VIA PIAZZALE DATEOdaily SAVOIA PIAZZA 4 LARGO Open PIAZZAis a reference O point for bike O GARIBALDI RZCADORNA and the metro. PIAZZA DUCA RI EVENTS Now on its 76th edition, EICMA Lost and Found VIA RASORI NO VIA CE VIA VIA PIAZZA VIA SUSA PIAZZA PIAZZA BEL (one trip only). metro. Check rates for CAIROLI D’AOSTA FILOD O PIAZZA BOSSI U TRICOLORE VER DELLA SC R. DEIVIA PIRELLI VIA BOCCACCIO FIO RISORGIMENTO VIA RAMM PIAZZA VIRGILIO 7.30am-7.30pm. and motorbike VIA CONCILIAZIONE V I A E ST VIA the extra-urban subway. T: 02 88453900 RA WAGNER AREA 9 aficionados. The biggest event in the world dedicated IAN GERUSALEMME PUCC PORTA L RE PROCACCINI VIAA ATICISCALA PIAZZA VIA LI EX ENEL MONFORTE CENACOLO NUOVA INI LIZ GHE PIAZZA MATTEOTTI VIA CASE ROTTE MEDA CORSOto CORSO POL the two wheels features the participation of the major brands FFI VIA REINA VINCIANO VIA MELLONI WHERE PIAZZA 5VIA POMAR PIEMONTE NI CORSO VERCELLI VIA MELLONI TO BUYFRA SA VIA SAN VIAIbiking for 2019, VIA CI previewing their latest innovations in asRNO well as AC Automatic ticket ATM POINTS CONTACTLESS CARDS T: 02 48607607 VIA SOTTOCO test-drives and competitions. Sales areasGR and dining options are also VIA ARCHIMEDE OC vendors in VIA SISMONDI AN A further step in the digital transformation of PORTA available on-site. INI (7.30am-7.30pm). M1- M3 Duomo PR SA underground stations VOLTA SARPI Milan’s public transport: today you can travel A PAC SSO EDE M2- M3 Centrale FS VI › EICMA 2018 | Esposizione InternazionaleVIAdel Ciclo e Motociclo VIA PAOLO ARCHIM and from all authorized VIA on the metro by paying easily, fast and safe Largo Cairoli, 18 (corner Via Cusani) M1- M2 Cadorna FN VIA ZANELLA VIA MARCONA VIA MARCONA 8 i– 11 November ticket sellers. directly at the ticket gate with Mastercard, T: 02 867131. M1 Cairoli-M2 Lanza M2- M5 Garibaldi FS DONATELLO PIAZZALE Rho Fiera Milano. www.eicma.it VIA MARCONAPIOLA M1- M2 Loreto - M2 Romolo www.zaniviaggi.it - www.livemilano.com Visa, Maestro and VPay contactless cards. www.atm.it RI
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SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS Several out-of-town destinations for a fun, relaxing experience
ALL THE ALLURE OF THE REGION
Each of the smaller islands has a history and a calling
EXPLORING THE SOUTHERN LAGOON
ING | MUS EUM
NEW OPE Out tips S
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A workshop of culture This former rail repair workshop plays host to the most creative and experimental ideas from Italy and the world’s musical, artistic and cultural scene By Elena Peverata
T
his is one of the landmark spaces of the new spirit of Turin devoted to contemporary art. Spread over a surface area of 35,000 square meters, the OGR–Officine Grandi Riparazioni is an imposing late 19th century industrial complex that was recently transformed into a multi-functional space dedicated to culture and creativity. Following a two-day celebration at the end of September marking its first anniversary, the OGR has resumed its activities with an action-packed events calendar. This month, on the occasion of Artissima, the city’s premiere contemporary art fair (from 2-4 November), the Officine Grandi Riparazioni will host the first major solo exhibition by British artist Mike Nelson. Known for his atmospheric, immersive work, Nelson will 38 W H E R E T U R I N I N O V E M B E R 2018
transform Binario 1 (Platform 1) with a majestic, site-specific installation (until 3 February 2019). The hub’s concert program for November includes sounds from around the world, plus the best in jazz and electronic experimentation. Highlights include performances by Jason Moran (Wednesday 7 November) and Chick Corea (Friday 9 November). On 24 November, the OGR SoundSystem will transform the stage of the Sala Fucine into a platform for audiovisual experimentation, featuring a rotating line-up of performers, including pop artists, experimental musicians and DJs. In addition to serving as a hub for performing arts, visitors to OGR can admire installations by William Kentridge (until 30 December 2019), listen to a concert or purchase a book. It’s also where you can eat at any time of
day or night, at the Snodo restaurant. Located just four minutes from the Porta Susa railway station, it’s definitely worth a visit! >> OGR – Officine Grandi Riparazioni Corso Castelfidardo, 22. www.ogrtorino.it
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN
AFTER DINNER Hiroshima Mon Amour Founded in the Eighties, Hiroshima Mon Amour is a go-to events space for lovers of music, theatre and culture. Located near the Lingotto railway station, over the years it has become a reference point for events, music festivals, DJ sets, concerts featuring Italian and international artists, exhibitions and clubbing. www.hiroshimamonamour.org. Via Bossoli, 83. T: 011 3176636. Off Map
Jazz Club Torino Located just steps from Piazza San Carlo, the Jazz Club is justifiably one of Turin’s best venues for Italian jazz. A meeting place for lovers of the genre, its offers a diverse program of concerts with an emphasis on contemporary trends and up-and-coming artists. The venue also hosts a restaurant and lounge bar where guests can relax and enjoy a meal or a drink while listening to the music. Open Wed-Thurs 8.30pmmidnight; Fri 8.30pm-2am; Sat 8.30pm-3am; Sun: see calendar. www.jazzclub.torino.it. Via S. Francesco da Paola corner of via Giolitti. T: 011 882939. Map G5
Les Arcades This informal locale in the Porta Nuova district, made headlines a few years ago due to Tamango, a hallucinogenic cocktail, that everyone, including the BBC, talked about. Based on a secret recipe and prepared with a mix of African plants and roots, Tamango gets its red colour from roselle leaves, a species of hibiscus, which apparently prompts a sense of euphoria and a desire to dance. Open Tues-Sat 9.30pm-4am. Via Fratelli Calandra, 10. T: 339 852806. Map G6
choice of wines and liqueurs, accompanied by a fabulous selection of finger food, focacce and hot, bite-sized pizzas. Open Mon-Thurs 5pm-to 2am; Fri 5pm-3am; Sat 10am-3am; Sun 10am-2am. www.la-drogheria.it. Piazza Vittorio Veneto, 18/d. T: 011 8122414. Map H5
Lanificio San Salvatore Located in the trendy, vibrant San Salvario district, this former wool mill serves high-quality cocktails accompanied by a rich buffet of large, tantalizing dishes that are also suitable for vegetarians. Highlights include an interesting wine list, including numerous organic labels, plus a good selection of classic cocktails. The venue also organizes themed evenings and live concerts. Open: Mon-Thurs 6pm2am; Fri-Sat 6pm-3am; Sun 11am-2am. Via Sant’Anselmo, 30. T: 011 0867568. Map F7
THEATRES Teatro Carignano One of the most important theatres in Turin, it was the place where the king went to watch plays (opera was only performed at the Teatro Regio). Dating back to 1700, it is run by the prestigious Teatro Stabile di Torino and located in the city’s beautiful piazza Carignano, opposite Palazzo Carignano. Teatro Carignano has a reputation for producing theatre of the highest standards and
presents an unrivalled range of classics, new plays and family entertainment. Open Tues-Sat 1pm7pm. www.teatrostabiletorino.it. Piazza Carignano, 6. T: 011 5169555. Map F4
Teatro Nuovo Teatro Nuovo is Turin’s temple of dance. In addition to the Teatro Nuovo Foundation, it is home to the Teatro Nuovo Company, the Regional Dance Academy, the Teatro Nuovo School of Fine and Performing Arts, Choral Music and Musical Theatre and the Valentino Cinema. Though mainly used to stage musicals, it also hosts concerts, ballets and operettas. Open daily. www.teatronuovo.torino.it. Corso M. d’Azeglio, 17. T: 011 6500211. Off Map
Teatro Regio Located in the highly central Piazza Castello, Teatro Regio is the ‘grande’ dame of Turinese theatres. The venue was commissioned by Vittorio Amedeo II at the beginning of the 18th century and designed by Filippo Juvarra. The theatre’s history is inextricably linked to several of the world’s most illustrious musicians including Arturo Toscanini, Giacomo Puccini and Richard Strauss who conducted and staged their operas here. Today it presents an exciting international program of operas, ballets and concerts. Open Tues-Fri 10.30am-6pm; Sat 10.30am4pm. www.teatroregio.torino.it. Piazza Castello, 215. T: 011 8815557. Map F3
Piano35 Italy’s highest panoramic lounge bar is housed in the skyscraper designed by Renzo Piano to host the offices of the Intesa Sanpaolo bank. Here you can taste amazing cocktails created by multi-starred bar tender Mirko Turconi accompanied by an assortment of delectable finger food. The venue offers breathtaking views over a winter garden and the city of Turin. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-midnight. www. grattacielointesasanpaolo.com. Corso Inghilterra, 3. T: 0114387837. Map B4
APERITIVI Ballantine’s Established in 1971, this was the first American Bar ever opened in Italy. A reference point in the centre of the city for aperitivi, it offers a great selection of wines and cocktails but also fresh fruity non-alcoholic drinks for teetotalers. Also a popular lunchtime spot. Open Mon-Sat 8am-noon; Sun 5pm-10pm. Corso G. Matteotti, 25. T: 011 5628849. Map D5
Beena This venue offers a delectable Indian-style apericena (more than an aperitivo and less than a dinner). Instead of a buffet, the menu includes a cocktail and seven appetizers, served at your table and cooked while you wait in a traditional Tandoori oven. A full immersion into the aromas and flavours of India.Open Tues-Sun 6pm-2am. www.beena.it. Via Lombroso, 22. T: 349 7078645. Map F7
La Drogheria Tucked away under the arcades of piazza Vittoria, La Drogheria is a stylish cocktail bar with an international feel. The atmosphere is just right and created with a mixture of vintage furnishings and contemporary works of art. In addition to cocktails, it offers a wide
A cocktail with a view A breathtaking view, minimalist décor and signature cocktails. Located on the top floor of the Intesa Sanpaolo Skyscraper, the new Piano35 lounge-bar is the latest symbol of contemporary Turin designed by archistar Renzo Piano. Here, visitors can sample signature drinks while enjoying a breathtaking view over the city and its surrounding Alpine range. With its terrace overlooking a bio-climatic garden, Piano35 is the loftiest area in the skyscraper and Italy’s highest cocktail bar. The locale is helmed by multi-award winning mixologist Mirko Turconi who, in addition to classic cocktails, proposes a selection of his creations inspired by traditional Piedmontese ingredients. From ‘Piemontais–un mai tai che passeggia tra le montagne piemontesi” with grappa, vermouth infused with ADVERTORIAL roasted chestnuts, orange and hazelnut barley water to ‘Red-rosso di sera, cioccolato si spera’, comprising a mixture of chocolate with strawberry-infused Campari, vodka and a Barbera and bay leaf syrup. These marvels of mixology are accompanied by a selection of delectable finger foods prepared ad hoc by the Piano35 restaurant, located two floors below. And then, of course, there are those 360-degree views of the Mole Antonelliana, Palazzo Reale and the Juventus Stadium. Piano35 Lounge bar c/o www.grattacielointesasanpaolo.com Corso Inghilterra, 3. T: 011 4387837. M1 Torino Porta Susa. Map B4
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The renaissance of a masterpiece A Baroque marvel has been restored to its original splendour. Like a phoenix, the Chapel of the Holy Shroud has finally risen from the ashes of the fire that destroyed it twenty years ago. By Elena Peverata
40 W H E R E T U R I N I N O V E M B E R 2018
when, following its construction, the Holy Shroud was transferred to Guarini’s chapel and installed on the high altar. On account of also having been damaged by the fire, at present, the altar – soon also up for renovation – is not able to guarantee perfect preservation of the relic which is now housed in the transept of Turin’s Cathedral. Following its opening, the Chapel has become an integral part of the tour of the Royal Museums of Turin, with access included in the ticket. Furthermore, until 21 January, in the Spazio Confronti of the Galleria Sabauda, an exhibition titled ‘The Shroud and its Image’ will enable visitors to immerse themselves in an interesting interactive experience and trace the stages involved in the restoration of the building following the fire.
>> Chapel of the Holy Shroud Musei Reali di Torino. Piazzetta Reale, 1 www.museireali.beniculturali.it
PHOTO © ERNANI ORCORTE
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ne of Turin’s most precious and important Baroque treasures is now finally accessible for public viewing. The Chapel of the Holy Shroud, a marvel of architecture designed by Guarino Guarini, and a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1997, has reopened following an extensive restoration and rebuilding project required to repair the damage caused by a devastating fire in April 1997 that also involved the Royal Museums, of which the Chapel is an integral part. The building is only one of the masterpieces designed by Guarini, ‘the ducal engineer’ of Charles Emanuel II of Savoy, and the mastermind behind Turin’s Church of San Lorenzo, Palazzo Carignano and the Church of San Filippo Neri. The impressive dome has been a hallmark feature of the city’s landscape since 1694
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN ALL CONTRIBUTIONS RELATED TO MUSEUMS AND EVENTS ARE BY Elena Peverata Lifestyle & Culture Editor Where ® Italia
Allianz Juventus Stadium Designed to host up to 41,507 spectators, the Allianz Stadium is the sixth largest stadium in Italy and the largest in Piedmont. Better known as the Juventus Stadium, it is owned by the Juventus Football Club whose home matches have been played here since 2011, the year when the facility was opened. One of the most avant-garde, eco-compatible facilities in the world, in addition to being one of the two architectural symbols of modern-day Turin, the Stadium is one of the city’s major hubs of tourist attraction. The complex also houses Area 12, a shopping mall featuring a hypermarket, shops and several restaurants. The J-Museum, the first official football museum of the ‘bianconera’ team is hosted inside the east area. www.juventus.com/it/stadiume-museum. Corso Gaetano Scirea, 50. T: 899 999897. Off Map
Basilica di Superga Commissioned by Vittorio Amedeo II as a thanksgiving to the Virgin Mary for Turin’s deliverance from the French siege of 1706, the Basilica is one of the many masterpieces by architect Filippo Juvarra, who designed it according to the style of the era with a colonnaded portico, cloisters (the building still houses a friars’ convent) and a dome. Situated on one of the hills surrounding Turin and framed by the Alpine mountain range, the Basilica dominates the city and offers visitors a breathtaking view that is even more stunning when viewed from the top of the dome (131 steps). After visiting the tombs of the Savoy family, the Popes’ chamber and the royal apartments, you can walk around the building to see the memorial that pays tribute to the ‘Grande Torino’. In 1949, a plane carrying the entire Turin football team on their return from an away match crashed into the side of the church, killing all on board. Although the Basilica can be reached by car or public transport, one of the most picturesque ways of accessing it is by the Rack Tramway, an original 1934 tram which rattles the 3km up the hillside. Strada Basilica di Superga, 73. T: 011 8997456. Tramway: Piazza Modena, 6. Off Map
Fondazione Sandretto Re Rebaudengo This is a reference point and a meeting place for connoisseurs and lovers of contemporary art. The foundation was opened to the public in 2002 and is housed in the former industrial neo-minimalist spaces of the Fergat factory. The building features a large space for temporary exhibitions, and its modular structure was designed to host concerts, performances, meetings and seminars. Open Thurs 8pm-11pm; Fri-Sun Noon-7pm. Full ticket price: €5; Free entry on Thursday. www.fsrr.org. Via Modane, 16. T: 011 3797600. Off Map
GAM - Galleria Civica d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea GAM boasts an extraordinary collection of 45,000 works by renowned 19th and 20th-century Italian and European artists, including Balla, Severini Boccioni, De Chirico, Dix, Ernst and Klee. Highlights include paintings, sculptures, drawings, installations, videos and photos, plus one of the most important collections of video art. In addition to the above, this must-visit museum offers a fabulous program of major exhibitions by Italian and international artists. The Art Library and the Photographic Archives of Turin’s Civic Museums are headquartered at GAM. Open Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. Closed on Monday. Museum full ticket price: €10. www.gamtorino.it. Via Magenta, 31. T: 011 4429518. Map C5
J-Museum (Juventus Museum) Located in the Allianz Stadium complex, in the northwestern area of Turin, the J-Museum is dedicated to the history and triumphs of the Juventus Football Club. Opened in 2012, it is one of the world’s best and most innovative sports museums. State-of the-art technology, memorabilia and an adrenalin-filled atmosphere offer fans a unique, memorable experience. By purchasing a combined Museum and Stadium Tour ticket you can also visit several areas of the Allianz Stadium that are generally off-limits to the public. Open from 16 September to 15 March, Mon-Fri 10.30am-6pm; Sat-Sun and Holydays 10.30am-7.30pm. Closed on 25 December and every Tuesday (unless matchday). The
ticket office closes one hours before the museum. Matchday opening hours: see official site. Full ticket price: €15. www.juventus.com/it/stadium-e-museum. Via Druento 153. T: 011 4530486. Off Map
Lingotto This complex of cream coloured concrete and glass buildings, built in 1916, based on a project by Matté Trucco to house the FIAT factory (now FCA), still symbolizes the wealth of the city. Reconverted by Renzo Piano in the 1980s, it now hosts the pavilions of Lingotto Fiere, the headquarters of major events including Automotoretrò (www.automotoretro. it) and the International Book Fair; the ‘8 Gallery’ shopping mall, where you can admire the spiral ramp that leads to the autodrome (www.8gallery.it) and the ‘Pinacoteca Giovanni e Marella Agnelli’, a small art gallery packed with masterpieces. On exiting the Pinacoteca you can visit the rooftop test track and admire the ‘Bolla’, the bubble-shaped, blue glass meeting room. The old Carpano plants, lying adjacent to the Lingotto complex, are now occupied by ‘Eataly’s’ vast food market. (www.eataly.net). Lingotto: Via Nizza, 294. Off Map
MAO - Museo d’Arte Orientale Opened in 2008, in the 18th century Palazzo Mazzonis, the museum houses more than 2,000 works from several Asian countries, dating from the fourth millennium BC to the 20th century AD. The exhibition space is divided into five different sections featuring exhibits from different areas of Asia including Southern Asia, China, Japan, the Himalayan region and Asia’s Islamic countries. Open Tues-Fri 10am-6pm, Sat-Sun 11am-7pm. Closed on Monday. www.maotorino.it. Palazzo Mazzonis, via San Domenico, 11. T: 011 4436932. Map E2
Mole Antonelliana The Mole has been an architectural landmark of the city since 1889. Named after its creator, architect Alessandro Antonelli, The Mole was purchased by the Municipality of Turin and made into a monument of national unity. At the time of its construction it was the highest brick building in Europe, standing
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Castello di Rivoli - Museo d’Arte Contemporanea The headquarters of Turin’s Museum of Contemporary Art since 1984, the Castello di Rivoli, a masterpiece of Baroque art designed by Filippo Juvarra in 1718, is located outside the city, at the entrance to Val di Susa. The museum offers a rich collection of works documenting the latest artistic trends. Highlights include works by Sol Lewitt, Richard Long, Michelangelo Pistoletto, Transavanguardia, Maurizio Cattelan, Vanessa Beecroft, as well as new generation artists. Open Tues-Fri 10am-5pm, Sat-Sun 10am-7pm. Closed on Monday, 1 January, 1 May, 24-25 and 31 December. Full ticket price: €8.50. www.castellodirivoli.org. Piazza Mafalda di Savoia, Rivoli. T: 011 9565280. Off Map
This card can be purchased online or at Turin’s Tourist Offices. With this pass you get free entry to Turin’s most important museums and exhibitions, castles, fortresses and the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont for 1*, 2, 3 or 5 consecutive days. It also offers reduced-price tickets to several other cultural sites in Piedmont, discounts on Turin’s main tourist services, plus other benefits. For more information www.turismotorino.org *The one-day pass is valid for a maximum of three entries to the Turin museum circuit.
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at a height of 167 metres. Built according to eclectic 19th century architectural techniques, the Mole is distinguished by its unique shape. Set on a squat brick base, the Mole rises through layers of windows and pseudo-Greek columns to a huge ribbed cupola and a needlelike spire. On the top, a twelve-pointed star is silhouetted against the Turinese skyline making the Mole a majestic, unmistakable landmark attraction. Inside, a panoramic, glass elevator takes visitors on a ride through the roof of the museum’s vast atrium and up 85 metres inside the tower to the 360-degree observation platform at the top. The view of Turin and its surrounding Alpine range is absolutely spectacular. Visitors can also access the panoramic deck on foot by climbing the 573 steps located inside the cavity of the cupola (by reservation from Monday to Friday, and without reservation on Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays). Since 2000, the Mole Antonelliana has hosted the National Museum of Cinema. Via Montebello, 20. T: 011 8138563. Map H4
Museum, the Savoy Gallery, Palazzo Chiablese and, lastly, the Royal Gardens to be connected. Visitors are now able enjoy a unique museum tour, comprising a 3km route spread over 30,000 sq.m. of exhibition space and 7 hectares of Royal Gardens. The origins of the Royal Museums date back to 1563, when Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy moved the capital from Chambéry to Turin. This marked the beginning of a major urban transformation and the enrichment of the dynastic collections, which now include artifacts dating from the prehistoric era to the present time. Between the 17th and 18th centuries, the appearance of the residence, with the imposing Royal Palace at its centre, was expanded and changed, thanks to the work of several of the era’s most illustrious architects. A Savoy Residence until 1865, the Royal Museums are now owned by the Italian government. On-site amenities include a food court in the former Regia Frutteria. www.museireali. beniculturali.it. Piazzetta Reale, 1. Map F3
Monte dei Cappuccini
Founded in 1860, the museum is housed in Palazzo Madama, one of the city’s oldest and most beautiful ‘palazzi’ (see listings). The building features multiple architectural styles, from Roman to the Baroque additions by Filippo Juvarra. The collection – featuring masterpieces and priceless objet d’art – includes more than 60,000 works of art, sculptures and decorative arts from the Byzantium age to the nineteenth century. Open daily 10.00am-6pm. Closed on Tuesday. Museum full ticket price: €10. www.palazzomadamatorino.it . Piazza Castello. T: 011 4433501. Map F3
Located a short distance from the historic centre, this hill, whose notable features include the convent and church complex of the Capuchin friars, offers a 360 degree view over the city and its surrounding mountains. After a steep climb from the Vittorio Emanuele I bridge, which can also be crossed by car, you’ll reach a panoramic square from which you can enjoy a truly stunning view over the city. An absolute must at sunset. Off Map
Musei Reali In 2014, in-depth restorations allowed all the buildings in the complex, the Royal Palace, the Armoury, the Royal Library, the Archaeological
Museo Civico d’Arte Antica
Museo della Sindone Housed in the crypt of the church of SS. Sudario, this
fascinating museum documents one of the most studied objects in human history: the Sindone, the famous ‘Holy Shroud’ a linen cloth which according to tradition Christ was wrapped in when deposed from the cross. The museum provides visitors with information about its provenance and history (from the second half of the 5th century when it became the property of the House of Savoy), as well as the various theories and mysteries surrounding it. Other highlights include the objects and paintings displayed during Public Ostensions (cyclical showings of the Shroud). Open daily 9am-Noon, 3pm-7pm. Full ticket price: €6. www.sindone.it/ museo. Chiesa del SS. Sudario, via San Domenico, 28. T: 011 4365832. Map E2
Museo Egizio Turin’s Egyptian Museum is the oldest Egyptian museum in the world and the second in terms of the value and quality of its treasures outside of Cairo. It was founded in 1824, when king Carlo Felice of Savoy purchased the collection from art expert Bernardino Drovetti. It is housed inside the historic Palazzo dell’Accademia delle Scienze, built in the 17th century by architect Guarino Guarini. In 2006, during Turin’s Winter Olympics, the museum was re-modelled by Oscar-winning set designer Dante Ferretti. The exhibition space is spread over five floors and houses more than 37,000 artifacts ranging from the Paleolithic to the Coptic era. The archaeologist and Egyptologist Jean-François Champollion once said: ‘the road to Memphis and Thebes passes through Turin’. Make sure to arm yourself with an audio guide: it’s free and enables you to tailor the itinerary of your visit according to your requirements. Open Tues-Sun 9am-6.30pm, Mon 9am-2pm. Full ticket price: €15. www.museoegizio.it. Via Accademia delle Scienze, 6. T: 011 4406903. Map F4
Museo Lavazza
PHOTO © CESARE ANDREA FERRARI/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
Lavazza is one of the most famous and oldest brands of Italian coffee. During its 120 years in the industry, it has marked the history of Italy’s coffee culture with advertisements and celebrities that have become an integral part of its public image. The museum uses a circular route to focus on its creative collaborations and famous advertising campaigns and to explore everything related to Lavazza’s history and coffee production. In order to access the museum’s numerous interactive sections, visitors are provided with a Lavazza espresso cup at the entrance. This iconic object is designed to activate the installations and unlock multimedia content across the museum. Open Wed-Sun 10am-6pm (last admission 5.30pm). Closed on 15 August. Full ticket price: 10 €. museo. lavazza.com. Via Bologna, 32A. T: 011 2179621. Map H1
Museo Nazionale del Cinema
PALAZZO CARIGNANO A stunning example of Italian Baroque architecture, it is a part of the Royal Savoy Residences and a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Palace hosts two museums, the Apartments of the Carignano Princes and the National Museum of the Risorgimento. Its elliptically-shaped hall was used to host united Italy’s first parliament. www.museorisorgimentotorino.it 42 W H E R E T U R I N I N O V E M B E R 2018
The National Museum of Cinema, housed in the Mole Antonelliana, is one of the world’s most important film museums. Featuring a unique, vertical layout, this ‘temple of cinema’ spirals upwards through several exhibition levels, creating a spectacular display of its extraordinary collections through an evocative, interactive itinerary. In addition to a vast film library containing more than 7,000 titles, the museum offers collections dedicated to the archaeology of cinema, the ‘Aula del Tempio’ (Temple Room), the focal heart of the museum, with areas dedicated to the great genres of cinematic history. Don’t miss the ‘Rampa’ (the Ramp) which, like a movie, unfolds to reveal the dome, offering a breathtaking view over the museum from above, the
MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS
‘Macchina del Cinema’ (the Movie Machine), an area dedicated to the film industry and the ‘Galleria dei Manifesti’ (the Poster Gallery). Open 9am-8pm, Sat 9am-11pm. Closed on Tues www.museocinema.it. Mole Antonelliana. Via Montebello, 20. T: 011 8138560-011 8138561. Map H4
| SIGHTSEEING
Officina della Scrittura by Livia Fioravanti
EDITOR’S TIP
Museo Nazionale del Risorgimento Italiano The museum is dedicated to the historic period of Italian unification in which Turin played a vital role. Founded in 1878, the museum has been housed in Palazzo Carignano since 1938 and is a stunning example of Italian Baroque architecture and one of Turin’s most important buildings. It was used as the House of Deputies of Piedmont’s Parliament between 1848 and 1861. The museum hosts an impressive collection of paintings, printed documents, manuscripts and sculptures. At its heart is the ornate circular chamber where Italy’s Subalpine parliament met; the only example in the world of a parliamentary room built after the revolution of 1848. Open Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. Closed on Monday. Full ticket price: €10. www.museorisorgimentotorino.it. Piazza Carlo Alberto, 8. T: 011 5621147. Map G4
Museo Nazionale dell’Automobile The Car Museum (MAUTO) was opened in 1960 and is one of the oldest car museums in the world. The semi-circular building that hosts the museum, overlooking the River Po, acts as a prelude to the three floors of the collection featuring a spectacular layout designed by François Confinio, the brilliant Swiss French architect who designed the exhibition space of the Museum of Cinema. www.museoauto.it. Corso Unità d’Italia, 40. Off Map
OGR-Officine Grandi Riparazioni From a former rail repair workshop to a new hub of contemporary culture and innovation. Opened in 2017, following a major renovation, this majestic, late 19th century industrial complex in the heart of Turin has become a meeting place for contemporary culture. The venue hosts a rich program of exhibitions, performances, concerts – both classical and electronic – as well as events dedicated to theatre, dance and the performing arts. Other initiatives include workshops, start-ups and presentations. Open Thurs-Sun 11am-7pm; Fri 11am8pm. www.ogrtorino.it. Corso Castelfidardo, 22. T: 011 4365832. Map G4
Palazzo Madama Situated in the centre of piazza Castello, this marvellous ‘palazzo’ has always been a reference point in the city. An eastern gateway for Augusta Taurinorum in Roman times, a fortified Medieval castle, and later the residence of the Acaja Princes, its name refers to ‘Madame Royale’ Christine of France who lived here in 1600, before a second ‘Madame Royale’, Marie Jeanne Baptiste of Savoy Nemours, took up residence here in 1675. In 1848, the palace became the headquarters of the first Subalpine Senate before being transformed into the cultural and artistic centre that we know today. The eminent architect Filippo Juvarra designed its magnificent white stone Baroque façade and staircase. Don’t miss the view over piazza Castello and the city from the palace’s Panoramic Tower. If you need a break, head to the cafè on the first floor offering a breathtaking view over piazza Castello. www.palazzomadamatorino.it. Piazza Castello. T: 011 5211788/4433501. Map F3/G3
Parco del Valentino
The Officina della Scrittura, located in the historic ‘pen district’, is the first museum in Europe dedicated to the art of writing. Founded in 2016 at the Aurora Factory, the oldest Italian manufacturers of fountain pens, the museum offers visitors a tour featuring a blend of tradition and technology. Interactive screens and avant-garde writing instruments are interspersed with typewriters and fountain pens that tell the story of Turin’s important role in the information revolution. Even if you’re not staying nearby, the Officina della Scrittura is located just 20 minutes by car, and one hour by bus, from the centre of town, and is well worth a visit. This is a unique experience that will appeal to both adults and children. At the end of the tour, you’ll find an Aurora sales point,
a bookshop and a restaurant-cafeteria, which is only open for lunch and offers a small selection of tantalizing dishes at affordable prices. Self-guided tours of the Officina della Scrittura take approximately one hour, while guided factory tours last for 45 minutes. Tours of the museum and factory are available in English for foreign visitors. www.officinadellascrittura.it Strada da Bertolla all’Abbadia di Stura, 200 (20 minutes from the city centre). T: 011 0343090.
Located on the banks of the River Po, this is the city’s w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 43
SIGHTSEEING |
MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS
largest and most popular park. Spread over a surface area of 550,000 sq.m, the park’s interior houses numerous treasures including the Castello del Valentino, a UNESCO world heritage site, now home to the Politecnico di Torino’s faculty of architecture; the Medieval Village and Castle, faithful 19th century reconstructions based on the model of Piedmont and Valdostano castles, and the Botanical Gardens, established in 1729 for educational purposes and open to the public since 1995. Tactile tours of the facility for blind or partially sighted visitors are also available. Starting from Ponte Umberto I, you can walk or cycle along the river, or stroll along the park’s paths. The park is always open, but the Castello del Valentino is not open to the public. The Botanical Gardens can be visited from mid-April to mid-October. Together with the Reggia di Venaria, Villa della Regina, Castello di Moncalieri, Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi and Castello di Rivoli, the Castello del Valentino is a part of the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont, a UNESCO world heritage site (www.residenzereali.it). The park sometimes hosts events such as ‘Terra Madre-Salone del Gusto’ (Mother Earth Tasting Festival www. salonedelgusto.com or the ‘Salone dell’Automobile’ (Turin Car Show) www.parcovalentino.com. Park: Corso Massimo D’Azeglio / Valentino Castle: Viale Mattioli, 39 / Town and Medieval Castle: Viale Virgilio, 107 / Botanical Gardens: Viale Mattioli, 25. Map G7
Piazza San Carlo Also known as ‘the drawing room’ of the city, piazza San Carlo was commissioned by Marie Christine of France in true Parisian style. It is a rectangle of perfect proportions with an equestrian statue – the so-called ‘Caval’d Brons’ - of Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy at its centre and on its southern side, facing the Porta Nuova Station, a twin pair of Baroque churches, San Carlo and Santa Christina. The former was built in 1639 based on a project by architect Amedeo di Castellamonte, while building on the latter began in 1619 (its façade was designed by Juvarra and dates back to 1715). Piazza San Carlo is flanked by seemingly endless elegant porticoes housing big-name fashion boutiques. The square is located in the middle of the partly pedestrianized arterial road of via Roma which, with its arcaded shops and cafés, connects the Station of Porta Nuova to piazza Castello. Piazza San Carlo is home to several of the city’s best-known cafés and pastry shops. Make sure to try the blends on offer at Caffè San Carlo, the pastries of Caffè Torino or the chocolates and candies of Stratta. Map F4
Piazza Vittorio Veneto Designed so that the king could access Piazza Vittorio from Piazza Castello, via Po is one of Turin’s most historic streets. After strolling under its porticoes that house numerous shops and cafés, you’ll be delighted to find yourself in Piazza Vittorio Veneto, the city’s largest square, which opens to encompass a view over the River Po. The square ends at the Vittorio Emanuele I bridge, which connects it to the square of the church of the Gran Madre di Dio, renowned for its pantheon-like shape, and the Oltrepò and Collina districts. Map H5
Pinacoteca Giovanni e Marella Agnelli Archistar Renzo Piano designed what he referred to as a ‘treasure trove’, a captivating space located on the rooftop of Turin’s Lingotto building, formerly the headquarters of the first Fiat (now FCA) automotive factory. This intimate gallery hosts a permanent exhibition showcasing the personal collection 44 W H E R E T U R I N I N O V E M B E R 2018
of late Fiat head Giovanni Agnelli and his wife Marella. Here you can admire a unique collection of seven paintings by Matisse, a 1913 painting by Balla dedicated to the theme of speed, as well as masterpieces by Severini, Modigliani and Tiepolo. The collection also includes works by Canaletto, Bellotto, Picasso, Renoir, Manet and Cano. In addition to temporary exhibitions, the Pinacoteca hosts a centre for art education, a reference library, offices and a bookshop. Open Tues-Sun 10am-7pm (last entrance 6.15pm). Closed on Monday and on 24 and 25 December. Open 10am-3pm on 31 December and 3pm-7pm on 1 January. Full ticket price (Permanent Collection + Temporary Exhibition): €10. www.pinacoteca-agnelli.it. Entrance: Lingotto ‘8 Gallery’. Via Nizza, 230/103. T: 011 0062713. Off Map
Santuario della Consolata This sanctuary stands on the site of the old Church of Sant’Andrea, of which only the bell tower remains. Its hexagonal plan was introduced by Guarino Guarini between 1678 and 1704, and was based on the model of a rectangular Romanesque chapel. Other additions to the sanctuary were made by illustrious architects including Filippo Juvarra, who built the altar, and Carlo Ceppi who designed several of its chapels. Particularly noteworthy is the people’s devotion to the icon of Our Lady of Consolation: the collection of ex-votives dedicated to the Virgin is absolutely amazing. Once inside, make sure to visit the Room of St. Andrew and the Chapel of Graces. www.laconsolata.org .Piazza della Consolata. T: 011 4836111. Map E2
Teatro Regio Commissioned by Vittorio Amedeo II and designed by Filippo Juvarra, the Teatro Regio was inaugurated in 1740. Destroyed by a fire in 1936, and rebuilt in 1973 by Turinese architect Carlo Mollino, the only part of the original building that still remains is its façade, now a UNESCO world heritage site. Its unusual gated access from Piazza Castello, a ‘bronze gate’ named Odissea Musicale (Musical Odyssey) is a work by famous artist-sculptor Umberto Mastroianni. The Regio is one of the most important Italian theatres on the European scene, and offers an action-packed program of opera, ballet, symphony concerts and other cultural activities. www.teatroregio.torino.it. Piazza Castello, 215. T: 011 88151. Map F3/G3
Villa della Regina The summer country residence of the House of Savoy was built at the beginning of the 17th century as the court vineyard of Prince-Cardinal Maurizio and Princess Ludovica. It later became known as Villa della Regina (literally the Queen’s Villa) when King Vittorio Amedeo II gifted it to his future bride in 1714, and remained a royal residence until the 19th century. After lengthy restorations it was returned to its original splendour. Don’t miss a visit to this magnificent residence where, in addition to admiring the remains of its original 18th century decorations and furnishings, you can stroll through its Italianate gardens, amidst stairs, fountains, panoramic views and areas of cultivated land. The Villa can be reached by car or public transport. Together with the Reggia di Venaria, Castello del Valentino, Castello di Moncalieri, Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi and Castello di Rivoli, Villa della Regina is a part of the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont, a UNESCO world heritage site (www.residenzereali.it). Strada Comunale Santa Margherita, 79. T: 011 8194484. Off Map
Musei Reali A Savoy residence until 1865, Turin’s Royal Museums are one of the largest and most diverse museum complexes in Europe. The sheer size of the complex and collections housed therein easily rival those of other major European royal residences. A unique tour devoted to history, art and nature, comprising a 3km route of exhibition spaces and seven hectares of gardens.
ARMERIA REALE - More than 5,000 objects dating from the Prehistoric era to the 20th century, one of whose most important sections comprises an impressive collection of 16th century arms and amour. BIBLIOTECA REALE – One of the city’s most important cultural institutions, it houses over 200,000 books, antique maps, engravings and drawings, including Leonardo da Vinci’s famous ‘Self Portrait’. CAPPELLA DELLA SINDONE – Recently re-opened after a long and complex restoration, until the 1990s, the chapel, a Baroque masterpiece, housed the Sindone, now preserved in the Cathedral of Turin. GALLERIA SABAUDA - Spread over four levels of exhibition space, the gallery showcases approximately 500 masterpieces by Italian, Dutch, Flemish and European artists displayed in chronological order from the 14th to 20th centuries. GIARDINI REALI - Extending over approximately seven hectares of land, and located in the centre of the city, these beautiful gardens testify to the city’s history and former opulent splendour. Due to ongoing renovations, today only a portion of the garden are open for public viewing. MUSEO DI ANTICHITÀ - The most important archaeological finds unearthed in the city and throughout Piedmont are housed in the new underground space lying adjacent to the ruins of the Roman Theatre. PALAZZO REALE - Majestic staircases, lavishly decorated rooms, carved ceilings, stuccoes, delicately gilded furniture and frescoes. An impressive feat of significant artistic and architectural value, and the official residence of the Savoy family until 1865, the Royal Palace was expanded and changed thanks to the work of several of Turin’s most illustrious architects and artists between the 18th and 19th centuries. PALAZZO CHIABLESE - The rooms on the ground floor of Palazzo Chiablese, an 18th century building that, over the centuries, was used as a residence for members of the Savoy family, house the temporary exhibitions of the Royal Museums.
PHOTO © LUCA MACELLARY
ESSENTIALS
Turin, the city of the Alps The first capital of Italy, is a ‘drawing room city’ of elegant porticoes surrounded by green hills and, further afield, by majestic mountains. This is Turin, a city renowned for its history, culture and natural beauties.
T
urin was a Roman colony, the first capital of Italy and an industrial city. From its origins to the present time, Turin has had several different incarnations, each of which has left profound traces in its architecture and urban layout. Extending over a surface area of less than 150 square kilometers, crossed by the Po, the longest river in Italy, Turin is characterized by a checkerboard-like grid of streets that makes getting your bearings easy. One of the city’s most distinctive architectural features is its 18km of porticoes – mostly located in the city centre – which house shops and cafes. Its porticoes, originally designed to offer shade in the summer and shelter from the rain, snow, and sometimes the wind in winter,
and its elegant squares have given Turin the nickname of a ‘drawing room’ city. With the exception of a few streets in the centre, which are off-limits to traffic (including the Quadrilatero Romano and its shopping streets), the remainder of the city is open to traffic and most landmark attractions are easily accessible by car. However, beware of access regulation ‘ZTL Centrale’, which is active Mon-Fri, 7.30am-10.30am and prohibits the circulation of private vehicles and parking in the centre of the city. This restriction does not, however, apply to taxis or chauffer driven hired cars. As an alternative, you can use public transport to get around the city. These include buses, trams and the subway (metropolitana). The ‘metropolitana’, a fully automated subway
system, extends for 13.2km and only includes one line that connects the commune of Collegno to the Torino Porta Nuova railway station (the city’s main railway hub) and the Torino Porta Susa station, before reaching the Lingotto Fiere terminus. Turin boasts an enviable geographic position. It is surrounded by green hills that stand 715 metres above sea level, and which, in addition to their natural beauty, also offer numerous cultural and historical attractions. They can be reached in just a few minutes by public transport, the Sassi-Superga tram or car. Turin is also an ideal base to reach several of Europe’s most renowned ski resorts. It is therefore not surprising that the city is described as the ‘Capital of the Alps’. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 45
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ESSENTIALS Emergency 112 > European Emergency Number created to provide all European citizens with a single number: Ambulance, Firefighters, Police. PASSPORTS Questura Centrale di Torino, Corso
Vinzaglio, 10. T: 011 55881 www.questure. poliziadistato.it/torino
Taxi In Italy taxis cannot be flagged down as they pass you along the street; they are stationed at special taxi parking stands in most of the major squares in any city or town and at the airport and can be requested by phone. Main taxi parking Via Nizza (Porta Nuova Station), Corso Bolzano (Porta Susa Station), Piazza Castello, Piazza CLN TAXI TORINO T: 011 5737 or 5730 - www.taxitorino.it www.wetaxi.it : app available for iOS and Android, it has more than 1400 licensed taxi drivers. Taxi fares Taxi Torino doesn’t have a fixed taxi fares to the Caselle Airport; it provides a maximum fare of €34 on the Turin Caselle Airport section starting from the city ZTL, €39 starting from Torino Lingotto.
Fast train network from Turin PORTA NUOVA & PORTA SUSA STATIONS
Turin offers fast-track access to major cities across Italy thanks to its high-speed trains: • Milan: 1 hour • Bologna: 2 hours 20 min • Florence: 2 hours 55 min • Venice: 3 hours 35 min • Rome: 4 hours 30 min • Naples: 5 hours 30 min. The most important railway station in Turin is Torino Porta Nuova, in the central Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 58; regional, interregional, high-speed and international trains arrive at and depart from there. Trains between Torino Porta Nuova and Milan stop at the Torino Porta Susa station, including TGV services between Paris and Milan and other services using the Turin–Milan high-speed line. TRENITALIA Railway Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com. ITALO - Info T: 060708. Italo Assistance T: 892020.
www.italotreno.it.
Airports TORINO CASELLE “SANDRO PERTINI” (TRN) - (16
km from the centre of Turin). The airport, at the North of Turin, is easily reachable in 25 minutes by car thanks to the Turin-Caselle motorway junction. Information desk T: 011 5676361-2. www. aeroportoditorino.it • Connections to the airport Sadem Shuttle service (www.sadem.it) from Porta Nuova Station. Every 15-30 min, travel time approx. 45’. One-way ticket: €6,50 - round trip ticket: €12. Taxi Torino (more than 1400 licensed taxi drivers) T: 011 5737 or 5730 - www.taxitorino.it - www.wetaxi. Taxi Torino doesn’t have a fixed taxi fares to the Caselle Airport; it provides a maximum fare of €34 on the Turin-Caselle Airport section starting from the city ZTL, €39 starting from Torino Lingotto (plus baggage supplements and extra fee for night or holiday travel). MILANO MALPENSA (MXP) -. The airport, at the East
of Turin (135 km from the city centre), is reachable in 1 hour 30 minutes by car from Turin thanks to the A4 motorway. Information desk T: 02 232323. wwwsea-aeroportimilano.it. 48 W H E R E T U R I N I N O V E M B E R 2018
• Connections to the airport Sadem Shuttle service (www.sadem.it) from Porta Nuova Station provides a shuttle service also from Turin to Milano Malpensa airport. www.aeroportoditorino.it CUNEO LEVALDIGI (CUF) - (65 km from the centre
of Turin). Information T: 0172 741500 – 558. www. aeroporto.cuneo.it • Connections to the airport BMC Bus Shuttle service (www.bmcbus.it) available in connection from Turin with departure and arrival of flights. €8 each way, we recommend buy ticket online. www.aeroportocuneo.it
Getting around Turin GTT – Gruppo Torinese Trasporti/Local Public Transport Company - www.gtt.to.it Infoline Mon-Sat 6.30am-7.30pm. Green Line T: 800 019152; from mobile (Toll Number): T: 011 0672000. GTT Info Point and ticket - Railway Station Torino Porta Nuova, in front of the track 20. Mon-Fri 7.15am7pm. Sat, Sun and holidays 9am-5pm. Lost and Found on GTT vehicles: Via Meucci 4. Mon, Wed, Thurs, 9am-12am. T: 011 4430753. Purchase your ticket before you get on the bus or
the tram.Ordinary ticket (€1.70) valid for 100 minutes on buses, trams or metro.
Tourist Information TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE – Piazza Carlo
Felice, in front of the Porta Nuova Station. T: 011 535181 Open daily 9am-1pm and 2pm-6pm. TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE – Piazza Castello
corner of Via Garibaldi. T: 011 535181. Open daily 9am-6pm.
Special Tours CITYSIGHTSEEING TORINO HOP ON-HOP OFF
Hallmark red double-decker bus offering 3 routes: Line A to explore the city center and the hill; Line B to access various sites including the Automobile Museum, the Lingotto, the Pinacoteca Agnelli, Eataly, the Olympic sites and the OGR-Officine Grandi Riparazioni; Line C for the Allianz Stadium, the Reggia di Venaria and the La Mandria Castle. 8 language commentary. Ticket valid 24h (48h if you combine 3 lines). Combo tickets for top Turin attractions are also available. www.city-sightseeing.it/en/turin
Your personal travel assistant now in the best hotels in Turin!
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