Where Venice n 12 August 2017

Page 1

ALL YOU CAN DO IN THE CITY

AUGUST 2017 THE MONTHLY GUIDE TO

Venice

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GETTING UP-CLOSE WITH ART BROWSING THE WORKS AT THE 2017 BIENNALE

VIVA ARTE VIVA 13 MAY - 26 NOVEMBER

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Venice August 2017 42

the guide

DINING

20 SHOPPING

Craftsmanship, originality and innovation. Three hallmark features that make Venini a true icon of art glass

BAGARON C A M PA LT O

MESTRE

42 DINING

Head to Oro Restaurant, a recipient of a Michelin star and a must-visit stopover for lovers of good food

Oro Restaurant

20 Parco San Giuliano

ISOLA DI TES

Iconic, beautiful and… imperfect, Scala Contarini del Bovolo is a rare gem of Venetian architecture

FOCUS

Contents

E G PIAV

A

HIA

ROS

CC

GA

VE

A

E

MASEN

RT

LA

DE

CALLE

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i stol ti Apo San

I

DE LA PIETA’

CALLE

SPIRIT

CALLE ZUCCHERO

ETTO

E ALLO

O SANTO

FONDAME

DEI LE

LLA STE

CAL

LE CAL

ERO

STEL LA

SQU

CALL E

DE LA SACA

FO

FISOLA RI

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ND

AM

EN

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SA

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NTI

ti

DICA

can

MEN

ENTA

Me

DEI

ndi

LE

CAL

FON

ANA BRESS

VENIERA

CALLE

CALLE LEONARD O

LA SACRESTIA

C. CORONA

CALLE RIMPETTO CALLE DE LE RASSE

LO SA RE TE ZAT

Chiesa San Giorgio M

AM

ND

S. Giorgio

CALLE DELA CREA

Spirito Santo

NTA ZATTERE

Spirito Santo CALLE

LE

DEL TEST A

Rio

E DE

CALL

DOSE E DEL CALL

IOL

SO

TAR

ADI

FRU

PAR DEL

C.

SAN T’AN TON IO

CAL LE

ZULIAN

BALBI CALLE

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

SALUTE

Punta della Dogana

FO

BRAG

TA

INCURA

BILI

FOND

AMEN

PISCINA

ZATTER

CAL

BAN DI

NAVE

DEL

CAL

LE

DE

DEL

LA

VOLT

O

ALBANESI CALLE DEL

S. Zaccaria (

NI

Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

CATECUMENI

I

MENTA

FORNACE

FONDA

R I VA

O

AI

RIO TERRÀ

SALON

RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO

DAM

DE L MAGAZEN

DON

CALLE

CALLE

COR

dei

C.SAN T’ANT ONIO

NO

FOR DEL LE CAL

PISCIN A SAN

BAL OTE LE DE CAL LE

VEC A

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SALIZADA

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CAL

IA CER MER

STAGNE RI

C. DEI

LOV O DEL CAL LE

LA

I

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ce

PO

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Ca’

GA RU

Rio

LI

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APOSTO

PISTO

SANTI

DEL ADA

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SALIZ

NAR

CAN

CALLE DEI FUSERI

CALLE VERRO DEL CCHIO

GA

LUN

LLE

CALLE

CA

DI

CA

EGIO

CAL LE

RC

TA

DEL SABION

S.G. GRISOSTOMO

BO A

DEL SAN CHI

A

CALL

E DE

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L’ARC

VAN

O

NI

MAT

TIA

C.

CA

DON

LLE

ZELL

DEI LLE CA

L’ANZ OLO CALL E DE

SAN LE

San Gregorio

CALLE DEL NAVARO

Dei

CAT

TA

SAN

ARINI

MP

CA

de

ER

ICO

RD

IA

Can ale

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ND

FO

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LLE

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DE CAL LE

RO

VER LLE

CA ’ D’O

SOF IA

C.

SAN TA

CAM PO

LE

CAL

I

BO

TER

DA PONTE DOGE

O

VENIER PISCINA

FOND

GNESE

Ca' Giustinian

FONDAMENTA

CAMPO DELLA SALUTE

TERRÀ

ADIN

A N M

EN

TTI NTOFFE SANGIA MENTA FONDA

FOS RÀ TER RIO

SA

DEGLI

Salute

RIO

SANT'A

FOSC

TRE VIS AN

CA LLE

TRA GHE TO

DEL

C.

A ROS DEL LE

IEL

CAL

PAN CAM DEL

INA REG LA DE LE

CAL STU A

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CAMPIELLO TRAGHETTO

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CALLE

RE DORSO SESTIE

CAL

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LI

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LIPO TA E STRE CALL

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NO A

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DEL CAL LE

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FOND

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CORTE

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L’ARC E DRIO CALL

STA

FOR

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DEL

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AD

CAL

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INA TI

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CALLE

,

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CALLE

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FONTE

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SALITA

GA LAR LE CAL

CRI STO

LO EL RI E LL CA RO

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Moise

E

RIVA

I

EREMIT

I MARTIR

San

RIDOTTO

ESSO

TREDIC

Rio

CALLE

MENTA

LO

VONI SCHIA

VALLAR

CALLE

FONDA

Palazzo Ducale

MO

CALLE

OTTI

SIONE

DEI CORTELL

O

Museo Correr ASCEN

CALLE

LARGA

Palazzo Genovese

FONDAMENTA

VAPOR

RC

C. PIA

o

CALLE

DEL TRAGHETTO

DEL

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

O

CALLE

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DEL LIBRER

MIN CA L DE LLE CA

SA PE E CA

LL

A CI LU NT A SA TA

LO

EN F. CONDULMER

FON. DEI TOLENTINI

IA RER CE LA DE C.

CCA E SBIA CALL I SE GU RA A RG LA

LLE CA

I

IN

ZZ

GA

MA

AI

RO

ET

DI

E

CA

Palazz

LL

CALLE

MARCO

CANONI DE LA

FONDAMENTA DEL VIN

O

ETT

CA

San Giovanni No

DEL

CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO

SAN

Basilica di San Marco

MA

LE CAL

CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO

EDIO REM LE CAL

LARGA

Rio Del

ze ra

CO

AM

De

e

al

an

C

O

TIM

RIT

MA

O

RT

PO NE ZIO RE

CORTE NUOVA

A GIUFF

DI

Palazzo Querini Stampalia

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

RUGA

en

Santa Maria Formosa Pala Grim

BANDE

CORTE FRUTARIOLI

CALLE DEL FIGHER

CALLE

I BALON

O PELL CAP

SAN

ORBI

GIO ROLO DELL’O

EOL

ZZA

E DEI

DE LE

CALL

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

CALLE

Palazzo Pisani Gritti

Santa Maria del Giglio

DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO

CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

C

CORTE TREVISAN

REMER

CA TAS

O DEL

O

I HIER SPEC

IA DAR SPA

ARIA MARZ CA

ALL CAV

ORS

SARTOR

CALLE DEL PESTRIN CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

Osped

Basili Santi Giova

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

E DEI CALL

DEL

A ENT

San Moisè

CORTE BAROZZI

O SAT MUS

CORTE

C.DEI

PIA

CAMPO SAN MOISE’

VE

IS

FORNO

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

DEL FORNO

E BIAN CALL

Bacino Orseolo

PRIMO INA RAMOCONTAR CORTE

E’

LE CAL

CORTE TORRETTA

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

C.

DAM

MOIS

SA

NO

CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

DEL

DE LE ERBE

San Giuliano

BRI FAB

C. DEL

NA

LICINI

LUCATE LLO MAR ZAR IA DEI SAN PIGN ZUL OLI IAN

RIO LO GAL SAN E CALL CAMPO SAN GALLO

FON

NA

PISCI

CORTE

MEZ O

C.

OLINA GRAG LE COLONNE DE

CARRO

XXII MARZO

LIO

C. LARGA

RUBBI

DE

DEI

I

LARGA

SAN

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

DE LA FAVA

CORTE

CAL LE

CAP

LE CAL

C. DE LE COLONNE

VERO

CALLE

CALLE

ERIA SEL CAS

IVO RED

CALLE GOLDONI

LA

MINELL

CORTE

MICHIEL

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

À

CALLE GABRI ELI

A

LI

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

CAMPO CALICE

IAPIE RA BALO TE

LE CAL

E C.

TER

TE

RLE ND

G. GALLIN

LIO

BRI FAB

LE

AZZ

CASTEL

CALLE DEL C.MAR PIOMB TINEN O GO D. PALLE

GIAZZO

DA

GALIAZ ZO

C. DEL

CALLE

Teatro la Fenice

Santa Maria del Giglio

IOL

ERIA

DEL

CALLE

SAN

DEI

DEL

STR

EN

BE

E

LARGA

CALLE

I

CORTE GRAGOLINA

C.

FRUTAR

DEL

FREZZ

OL

AM

LLE

CORTE NOVA

DRIO CALLE LE SCUOL

CALLE

DA

r

LE CAL

do

DE

A DE PISCIN

LA CHIESA

AC

ND

ERI

CORTE CORTESE

CAMPIELLO STELLA

MAN

IZA

lva

C.

CALLE

CALLE

DRIO

CALLE

ITELL O CORTE C.DE TRAMONTIN L TAG LE

ONA

Sc

WID

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

I MIR

Teatro Malibran

SALVAD OR

MAR ZARI A DEL

Sa

I

ASSA

San Fantin

SAN

C.DE

BOT

CA

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

C. DEL

SABION

DEI

Casa di Marco Polo

CORTE DEL

MARZA RIA

FO GA

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

N

DE

SALIZA

MAZ ZINI

n

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

RIO

CAMPO SAN LIO

ZEN MAGA

DEL

CALLE

CALLE

SSIN

SAN

VER

om

PIC

ND

ON

FO

SIM SAN ENT A DAM FON

ra

ze

en

m

Sco

O

TIM

RIT

MA

O

RT

PO

LAR

VAR ISCO

S.Canciano LE

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

Sa

A LUC LE CAL

TERÀ

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

LE

O

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN

CAL LE

C O RT E B ATA G I A

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

CANZIAN A SAN

X

San Salvador

DEL

LA

le

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

FONTEG

PIO

Rio

OPIA PISC

BON CAR

LE CAL

NDE LOCA

CALLE

Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

CAL

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

SAL

BO BEM

RO TEAT

DEL

A

DE

na

RAMO

RIOL

O

CORTE

TEATRO

Palazzo Nervi Scattolin

OLA MAND

LARG A

CORTE DEL

CAMPO MANIN

RNIN PATE

C. DEL

SALI ZZA DA

SAN SALVADOR

LE CAL

E CALL

C.

DOL

Ca

FRUTA

COCCO

QUE

LLI CAVA

E

RIO

SAN

I

R

CAL

BARBA

CALLE

NE

SI

CIN

ZIO

ORE

DEI

A

LE

CAN

RE

HE BRIC FAB

TOS

DI

LE

DE

E CALL

NER COR

a

Chiesa dei Gesuiti

E VOLT

E VENIE

ETTI MOR

DE

LE

E CALL

im

TERÀ

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

Fontego dei Tedeschi

MARCO

ETIE

R

A

DEL FORNO

CALL

CORTE DEL REMER

RIO

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

Ponte di Rialto

N

CAF

CHIES

SALIZADA

ULI

Rialto

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

RTA

DELLA

UZZI

E

ZEN

CALL

San Giacomo di Rialto

RIO

TI OCA

DEL

CALLE

CAPP

E CALL

CALL

LE

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim

CALLE

CATEN

CAMPO DEI GESUITI

ENTA

SARTORI

San Giovanni Grisostomo

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

CAL

STU

TEA TR O

MAN

CAL

Canal Grande

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

E

NANI

DAM

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

Rialto (Palazzo Cavalli)

CAOTO

CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

CALLE

RAVA

San Maurizio

Accademia

VE

REA

SALIZAD

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

ON

NO

DEL

CALLE

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

GO

VA

CAL LE

À

CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

GNES

PRI

Fontego Palazzo Rava Dolfin Manin

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

CAMPO PISANI

NO

CAL

San Beneto San Luca

SI

IER

NT'A

ENT A

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

Palazzo Grimani

SAN

Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia

DAM

San Silvestro

nde

AVV

. NARI

. S.AND

CAMPO DELLA PESCARIA

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

Gra

BOT EGH E

FAL

C.SA

NO

DEL

ritt

TE

RINA

FOND.

Santa Sofia

DA

LE

ETA

RUGH

Santo Stefano

San Vidal

RA

ANG

CAMPIELLO DEL SOL

Sant’Aponal DEL

TER

LE

CATE

DEI

CAM DEL PIEL SAN LO SON I

AMP ANE

LE

DE

TA

FON

FOND

FON

PAR

CAR

RIO

FOND

CRO SER A

ST

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

Palazzo Loredan

DEL PISTOR

STU A

CAL

Ma

EN

CALLE

SAN

CAL

ne

AM

ENTA

A

LE

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

E UEL SAM

DAM

RUG

DE

CAL

taz io

ND

Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana

MUT I

DE L

LE

Zattere

Giudecca Hilton

DEI LAVRANE

FO

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Giudecca Hilton

LARGA

S.

S. Samuele

E AI GESUA TI

FONDAMENT O BEATE GIULIANA CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO

CALLE

CA’

C.

DA IZA SAL

ZATTER

CHIESA

LA

CAMPO SAN BENETO CA LLE

CAL LE CA’ VEC CHI CORT A E LEZZE

MENTA

DELLA

DE

BOT A

Palazzo Fortuny

DI SAN MARCO

FON

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

S.Silvestro

SESTIERE

Palazzo Grassi San Samuele

FONDA

CALLE

DEL

ANI GRIM

CAMPO SAN TROVASO

N

E CALL

LINI

MI

ZI

ENTA

LA

CARAMPANE À

LE CAL

CAL

CALLE

IN

GALIZ

DAM

TER

Sant'Angelo

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

Ca' Rezzonico

OL

DEI

Palazzo Giustinian Persico

S. Toma' SX

OZZE CARR

AP

C.

LON

CAL LE DE

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

San Tomà

LE

TR

A

TE

RIO

al Can

RAMO

IA

ZEL

PON

CAL LE

Palazzo Querini-Dubois

Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione

SACCA

CORTE DEL TEATRO

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

E DE CALL

Abazia della Misericordia D

R

DON

E AL

L’AG NEL LA

FORNO

TER

RA

CAMPO APONAL

A

San Trovaso

ND

DON SAN PER

Ca' Rezzonico

I

DE

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

CAMPO DEI FRARI

O

TA

CAMPO DE LA BECARIE

DEL

SANT

' VE

ERA

OGNI

IC

EN

San Cassiano CAMPO SAN CASSAN

CAMPO SAN POLO

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI

BON

ZAT

INI

GO RTE OPO SOT

LET

ER

CALLE BERNARDO

FON

NTA

SCA

CHI TODES

AME

DEL

C. DEI

. DE

C.

LE SAMUE

FOD S. Basilio

100 m

FOND

ZI

RIN PEST

TI

DEI

SAN POLO

SERA

DE OGNISAN

ER

AM

CAL LE

TIOZ

A S. PISCIN

ENTA

LE

DE INC INI

E CRO

FONDAM

Santa Fosca

CA’BCAL ONVLE

C.

IS

ND

DE

E DEL CALL

Chiesa di Ognissanti

CALLE DE LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN BESAGIO

TA

M

FO

CAL

CAMPO SAN TOMÀ

San Barnaba

EN

CA

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

O

IO

OR

CALL

BESAG

NT

DO

DEI PUTI

DA SAN

FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN

DORSODURO

TE

BOL

CALLE

CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN

SALIZA

CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI

L

E ZANE

nde Canal Gra

SPORCAE CALLE PAZIENZ DE LE

CALLE SAN BASILIO

DE

HETT

O

TA

d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro

TRAG

L’ASE

CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA

AM

E TRON

E DEL

E DE

ND

NA

SAN

A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA

IAN

CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL

San Sebastiano

AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO

NT AR

San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale

CALL

CALL

CALL

FOMO

INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON

AST

I

CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO

SEB

DON

SAN

LAR

A ENT

Istituto Universitario Di Architettura

DAM

LE

C.

TTO

SCOAZZERA DE LA E

LE PAZIENZ

FON

Angelo Raffaele

O

CAL

CO

San Felice

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

CAL

GHE

NI

RIELO

LE

TA

a de

rto

EN

CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE

L

CALLE

SER

R

C. DE

DIA

LORENZ

CALLE CASE NUOVE

SAN

San Nicolò dei Mendicoli

CAL

EN

nn

ll'O

AM

E DOL

CRO

D

CALL

LE

N

MADONA

CAL

E RENIE

DEL

AM

do

S.Stae

Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

O

CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO

CALL

TTO

I

NA

CAMPO SAN STIN

ORE

PRET

ALE

SA

TOMÀ

Basilica dei Frari

TINT

E DEI

E C A

FO

DD

DE LA

LE

N

RIO TERA’

AR

C. SAN

MATTA DI CA’

OCHE

TRA

CALL

ND

Ma

LA

SAN

CAL

TALO

CAMPO DEI CARMINI

Santa Maria dei Carmini

TERÀ

A mixture of history and legend, D O R S O D U R O all the secrets of Venetian cuisine. NIC

CALLE

C.

MEZ

DEL

Car

E

DE

LE

GU

del

FO

lla

DE

RIO

CANAL RIO TERA’

LLE

min

I

Rio

LE

E

San Rocco

Mu

CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA

CA

EN

IAT

o de

C.

N

le

PAN

SSA

AM

BR

E OCH

A

MA

La Maddalena

CAMPO SAN BOLDO

LE

CALL

CAMPO SAN PANTALON

RO

ND

LAC

San Pantalon

O

I

NTA

RE

FO

LA

N

LA

RAMO

de

A SAN

NUOVO

CALLE

i

TA

CALLE ORSETTI

FON IA

ESI

tini

RIO

USE

L' ARZE

LA TT

À D E

CAL

MENTA

DE LA VIDA

CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO

C.VE

LA

FO de Serv N.D AN i IEL

TER

Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

San Giacomo dall'Orio CAL

NZAT

DE

FO

CAMPO SAN ROCCO IZAD

Rio dei Tolen

CALLE CONTARINA

ME

TA DE

OLO

DE

LA

CIM

CALL

FONDA

RAMO

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

I

DA

AMEN

AMEN

LE

DE

DAR O

ete

SAL

RAG

FOND

FOND

CAMPIELLO LONGHI

TA

O

BASEG

CALLE CAZZA

CALLE SAVIO

RUGA BELA

O

CALLE DELL'OLIO

CERER

DE L’OGIO

EN

TI

TOR

DEI

DEI FONTEGH

CALLE

OT

CALLE DE LA LACA

C.

RAM

CIM

gh

OTT

en

a

R

L’ISOLA

TIN

gaz

CALLE

DE

DEL

I

MENTA

FON

FONDA

ERI

CALLE

RZ

AM

TERA’

LE

CH

Ma

CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

CAL

AS

MADON

LA

L

ne

ENT A MIN

icordi

LE CAL

NE

Del

Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola

I

ZO

CAM

LE CAL

ESI

Rio

DAM

Miser

CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA

I

EO

CAL

PAZ

O

Rio

San Marcuola

A

LE

DE

A A MART SANT

NA

BAR

SIM LUN

CAL

A CALLE

AUTHENTIC FLAVOURS TA

CA

E

IO

CAMPO NAZARIO SAURO

DEI

N

E

LA

TA PROC

URATI

RT

ND

E DEL PISTO

DIETRRIO TERÀ O LA CHIE

DEL REMER

RUGA VECCHIA

GA

SA LA

della

RIO

CAMPIELLO

LAR

A OV DE

Rio

Rio

CALL

San Leonardo

BIAS

DI

BAR

TA

LIS

FO

AM

PO

IA

EONARDO

RIO

NU

RG

TA RIZZI

A RIVA

VE

DEI AMAI

RD

SAN LEONARDO

C.

LLE

A

BE

AMEN

CAZZIO

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A guide to spending unforgettable days at the Biennale, while browsing exhibitions and viewing contemporary performance art.

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SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | ENTERTAINMENT | SHOPPING | DINING | MAPS

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WELCOME TO VENICE

www.where-venice.com WHERE ITALIA SRL

Via Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano. T: 02 349951 - Fax 02 33107015 info@where-venice.com www.where-venice.com PUBLISHER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

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PHOTO © RICCARDO ROITER RIGONI

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EDITORIAL (PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL) MANAGING DIRECTOR

Daniele Misrachi

EDITORIAL COORDINATION

Alessandra Finzi (redazione@where-venice.com)

EDITOR'S TIP >> The most exclusive view of Venice? From the Lido (page 38), Heliair offers an easy solution. There’s nothing better than experiencing a sunset in the air. If you’re on the ground, don’t forget these simple rules for lovers of Venice (below).

WELCOME TO VENICE

FOR REAL VENETIAN LOVERS A trip to Venice is a unique experience: to make sure it’s unforgettable, here are some insider tips to make the most of your visit.

HOTEL DI

MAGAZINE EDITORIAL STAFF Carey Bernitz, Elena Binda, Romena Brugnerotto (tourist advisor, www.rominvenice.com), Simona P.K. Daviddi, Elena Peverata, Stefania Vida MAGAZINE ART DIRECTION Elisabetta Giudici,

Joy Lacanlale

WEB EDITORIAL STAFF Chiara Fonzi (coordination), Fabio Lancini (art direction), Giulia Minero (editor) redazione@where-venice.com ICONOGRAPHY Archivio Where® Italia, Shutterstock CARTOGRAPHY CITY MAP: © Where Italia srl. - 2017 Original Map by Urban File - www.urbanfile.org Fast Trains Network Map by Dmitry Goloub MARKETING & ADVERTISING Sieva Carolo, Isa Faleschini, Marta Mailhac, Rachele Renna, Paola Zannoni (coordination "Welcome to Italy")

01

03

ACQUA ALTA In the event of ‘acqua alta’ (flooding), use the raised walkways provided. Keep to the right and don’t hang around. Don’t step into the water, because it’s dirty.

When travelling on public transport, please respect the other passengers: avoid blocking the entrance or exit, store your bags where the boat staff tells you and remove your backpacks.

BIKES AND OTHERS MEANS OF TRANSPORTATION

05

06

07

It is forbidden to walk around Venice in a bathing costume or bare-chested. Swimming in Venice’s canals is prohibited. The Lido is the go-to place for bathing. Venice is an elegant ‘grand dame’ and a certain dress code is ‘de rigueur’.

OBSTRUCTING PUBLIC TRANSPORT

04

EATING Apart from restaurants, picknicking is forbidden in the area around St. Mark’s Basilica. Website www.where-venice.com features a list of the best restaurants and ‘bacari’ where you can sample delectable Mediterranean cuisine. Please Note: it’s not done to eat ‘gelato’ before lunch and cappuccino is a ‘no no’ in the afternoon.

DRESS

02

STREET RULES Many ‘calli’ (streets) in Venice are narrow. Keep to the right and avoid loitering. Make sure to take quick ‘clicks’ on Venice’s bridges especially when they’re crowded.

by rl

XCLUSIVE

YOUR TRAVEL ING COMPANION SINCE 1936®

In Venice, adults are prohibited from riding bikes or using or carrying kick scooters. Use the parking lots located at the entrance to the city.

VENETIAN SOUVENIR In the midst of its myriad offerings, always make sure to purchase authentic Venetian goods. These include Murano beads, local biscuits, artisanal prints and masks. By purchasing items from local artisans, you’re supporting the Venetian craft industry.

PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION, SALES SUPPORT COORDINATOR Paola Grilli ADMINISTRATION Katia

Greto

LOCAL MARKETING Stefano Traine (T: 340 3026288) HOTEL RELATION MANAGER Maria Granata (maria.granata@where-venice.com) CUSTOMER SERVICES Cristina Garbini, Silvia Maggi REG. TRIB. MILANO No. 174, 28 JUNE 2016 WHERE® ITALIA SRL, ISCRITTO AL ROC No. 20182 DEL 14 SETTEMBRE 2010 DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE (BG) Although the publisher has made every effort to include copyright credits, in the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would like to apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published in the next issue.

IN ITALY Where® is also published in Milan by Where® Italia, in Rome by Tourist Media srl and in Naples by IES Comunicazione srl

EXCLUSIVE GIFT FROM TOP HOTELS WHERE® VENICE È DISTRIBUITO SOLO NELLE CAMERE DEI MIGLIORI HOTEL DI VENEZIA E DEL VENETO. WHERE® VENICE IS AVAILABLE ONLY IN THE ROOMS OF THE MOST EXCLUSIVE HOTELS IN VENICE AND IN VENETO.

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP EXECUTIVE CHAIRMAN William S. Morris III PRESIDENT & CEO William S. Morris MANAGING DIRECTOR EUROPE Chris

Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited.

Published in association with

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2  W H E R E V E N I C E I AU G U S T 2017

If being a tourist is your way of life, an instinctive mindset, being

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Where® magazine and the where® logo are registered trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications.



[ SIGHTSEEING]

Top in town

Palazzo Ducale

BASILICA DI SAN MARCO This is the most important Catholic church in the city, and one of the most important monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1000; inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. Map F4 

CANAL GRANDE Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the main waterway of Venice. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. 

PONTE DEI SOSPIRI A Baroque bridge that once connected Palazzo Ducale to the prisons. The Bridge of Sighs is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. It can be accessed when visiting Palazzo Ducale. Map F4 

SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO The external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell of Palazzo Contarini - an exquisite, late Gothic building - is enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can

4  W H E R E V E N I C E I AU G U S T 2017

be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. Map E4  TEATRO LA FENICE Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries La Fenice theatre has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. Map E5  CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE DI SAN ROCCO A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built


MORE AT PAGE 50 MAP PAGES 62-63

as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plaguestricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures. Map D4 

PHOTO © DANIMISRA

PALAZZO DUCALE A masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, it features a number of different and intricate architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it is superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. Map F4 

Canal Grande

Piazza San Marco with the Basilica and the Tower

Ponte dei Sospiri

EDITOR'S TIP

11 MUSEUMS, 1 TICKET The Museum Pass is a combined ticket that offers access to all the permanent collections of Venice’s civic and affiliated museums. The Pass is valid for 6 months and allows one entry per museum site. Full price ticket €24 > This ticket is valid for: the Museum of St Mark's Square (Doge's Palace, Museo Correr, Museo Archeologico Nazionale, Monumental Rooms of the Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana), Ca' Rezzonico-Museum of 18th-Century Art, Museum of Palazzo Mocenigo and Museum of Textiles and Costumes, Carlo Goldoni's House, Ca' Pesaro-International Gallery of Modern Art + Oriental Art Museum, Glass Museum in Murano, Lace Museum in Burano and Museum of Natural History. Info & Reservations: www.visitmuve.it Call center 848 082000. From abroad +39 041 42730892.

Museo Correr w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com  5


AUGUST

HOT DATES Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating Italian traditions, art and music or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates.

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© DAVID HOCKNEY, PH. CREDIT RICHARD SCHMIDT

WHERE NOW | HOT DATES


AUGUST ART

24 22 JUNE

OCTOBER

HUMANS IN VENICE The first exhibition in Italy by David Hockney, one of the world’s greatest contemporary figurative artists, is currently showing at the San Stae museum in Venice. Born in Britain but Californian by adoption, between 2013 and 2016, Hockney completed eighty-two portraits. Each work is the same size, showing his sitter in the same chair, against the same bi-tonal background and all were painted in the same time frame of three days. Yet Hockney’s virtuoso paint handling allows their differing personalities to leap off the canvas with warmth and immediacy. In a contemporary era in which the visual consumption of images runs at breakneck speed, David Hockney revives the pictorial genre of portraiture, seeking the essence of the sitter through careful observation. “I think that the more I know and respect people, the more interesting the result will be.” A first-ever Italy premiere, the exhibition will subsequently be hosted at the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao and the LACMA in Los Angeles. DAVID HOCKNEY. 82 portraits and 1 still life Ca’ Pesaro-Galleria Internazionale d’Arte Moderna capesaro.visitmuve.it

A gallery of portraits by David Hockney. Opening page: Barry Humphries; left, Jacob Rothschild, and below Celia Birtwell, Dagny Corcoran and Edith Devaney.

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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES

26 7

INSTALLATION

7 27 APRIL

AUGUST

JANUARY 2018

NOVEMBER

A MARRIAGE OF SCIENCE AND BEAUTY ▼ Head to T Fondaco dei Tedeschi, the new luxury department store and cultural hub overlooking the Grand Canal to see ‘Waterbones’, the site-specific installation by Italian artist Loris Cecchini. Comprising thousands of thin welded interconnecting steel modules, in an apparent state of construction and deconstruction, this installation is part of the artist’s series of delicate and natural works. Whether leaning against a wall or hanging from the glass ceiling, the organic structure designed by Cecchini plays with gravity, creating a threedimensional effect which is both natural and artificial, static and dynamic. Open every day to the public freely.

ART PICASSO: THE MEDITERRANEAN YEARS

FONDACO_EVENTPAVILION_LORIS CECCHINI INSTALLATION_PHOTO BY MATTEO DE FINA

Waterbones T Fondaco dei Tedeschi, Events Pavilion (top floor). Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi, Ponte di Rialto www.dfs.com

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▲ From August 26, 2017, through January 7, 2018, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection in Venice presents the exhibition PICASSO. On the Beach curated by Luca Massimo Barbero. The exhibition is a collaboration with the Musée Picasso of Paris, and focuses on one of Peggy Guggenheim’s favorite works of art, Picasso’s ‘On the Beach’ (La Baignade, 1937) as well as two other paintings, ten drawings and a sculpture, all works completed by Pablo Picasso between February and December 1937. The show is part of a program of seminars, publications, studies, and exhibitions tied to the three-year Picasso-Méditerranée project whose aim is to explore and shed new light on the connections the Spanish artist had with the Mediterranean, which played an important role in his artistic career: from his roots in Spain to his life in France, and his relationships with artists and art forms that had the Mediterranean as their frame of reference.

PICASSO. On the Beach c/o Peggy Guggenheim Collection-Project Rooms. Dorsoduro, 704. www.guggenheim-venice.it

THEATRE

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NINE WOMEN DIRECTORS AND THEIR PERFORMANCES

‘Act I: DIRECTOR’ is the title of the 45th International Theatre Festival taking place JULY AUGUST until 12 August. Directed by Antonio Latella, it offers a survey of European theatre through the lens of nine well-known, forty-something female directors from Italy, Germany, France, Poland, Holland and Estonia. To showcase the evolution of their creative process, the festival features 2-4 films per director, most of which will be Italian premieres, with a special evening ticket which is valid from 6pm to 11pm at a price of just €20. Biennale Teatro 2017 c/o Piccolo Teatro Arsenale and teatro alle Tese. www.labiennale.org/en/theatre


AUGUST ANNUAL EVENTS IN VENICE

ROY LICHTENSTEIN, LITTLE ALOHA, 1962, ACRYLIC ON CANVAS 112×107 CM © ESTATE OF ROY LICHTENSTEIN, BY SIAE 2014 © SONNABEND COLLECTION, NEW YORK

POP ART

15 5 JULY

NOVEMBER

THE EXTRAORDINARY SIXTIES ► The exhibition features more than forty masterpieces from the Collection of Ileana and Michael Sonnabend who opened their gallery in 1962 to present the works of young American artists, including Andy Warhol, Roy Lichtenstein, Jasper Johns, Jim Dine, Tom Wesselmann, Robert Rauschenberg and many others, to the European public. Their success was recognized at the 1964 Venice Biennale when Rauschenberg won the Gran Prix for Painting. The works of the masters of the Pop Art movement are featured in Mestre together with those of their European contemporaries, including Pistoletto, Arman, Christo and Mario Schifano, as well as painters of the next generation such as Jeff Koons and Haim Steinbach.

POP ART IN THE SONNABEND COLLECTION. John, Rauschenberg, Warhol, Lichtenstein, Koons Mestre, Centro Culturale Candiani. www.visitmuve.it

ENTERTAINMENT

5 29 JULY

SEPTEMBER

A MARATHON OF CONCERTS AND SOLIDARITY ▲ Thirteen starred female jazz and bossa nova vocalists team up in Venice to support disadvantaged women and children across the world. Scheduled to run for 24 evenings throughout summer, this marathon of concerts and solidarity is an initiative by ‘Women for Freedom’, an independent humanitarian organization that supports projects in India, Cameroon, Romania, Nepal and Italy, campaigning in favour of the rights of more than 3,000 women and their families worldwide. Every Wednesday and Friday at 9pm. Ticket 15€ (booking required).

Women for Freedom in Jazz c/o Top of the Carlton- Hotel Carlton On The Grand Canal. Santa Croce, 578. www.carltongrandcanal.com

► 2017 ◄ AUGUST/SEPTEMBER International Exhibition of Cinematographic Art > (30 August-9 September) The 74th Venice International Film Festival is organized by La Biennale di Venezia and directed by Alberto Barbera.

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER Regata Storica / Historic Regatta (3 September) > One of Venice’s foremost rowing competitions, it is preceded by a spectacular parade of historic 16th century craft. The Venice Glass Week (10-17 September) Biennale of Music (29 September-8 October) Venicemarathon (22 October) NOVEMBER Concert Season-Grand Opening (3 November ) > Schubert’s Legacy is the title of the 2017-2018 Symphony Season. Festa della Salute > 21 November A popular religious feast day. Opera and Ballet Season-Grand Opening (24 November ) > “Un Ballo in Maschera” by Giuseppe Verdi is the first date of the Opera Season 2017-2018. DECEMBER Christmas Concert at St. Mark’s basilica ► 2018 ◄

JANUARY New Year’s Eve Concert (1 January) > Myung-Whun Chung is to conduct the 15th edition of the New Year’s Concert. Regata delle Befane > 6 January FEBRUARY Carnival of Venice (27 January-13 February) > Shows, masked parades and music in ‘calli’, squares and palaces. On Saturday 27, the “Festa Veneziana” (Carnival Grand Opening). APRIL Festa di San Marco/Feast of St. Mark (25 April) > In addition to being a national holiday, on 25 April Venetians also celebrate Saint Mark’s day. Venice Night Trial (28 April) > Urban trail run 16 km through the historical centre of Venice. MAY Biennale Architettura 2018 (26 May-25 November, Arsenale and Giardini) > The 16th International Architecture Exhibition is organized by La Biennale di Venezia and curated by Yvonne Farrell and Shelley McNamara. Festa della Sensa (or Ascension festivity 13 May) > A masked parade in St. Mark’s Square to celebrate the Serenissima and the ‘Sposalizio del Mare’ (Marriage of the Sea) ceremony JUNE/JULY Vogalonga (4 June) > 44th edition of the 30 km rowing marathon from the Northern lagoon to the islands: a colourful event open to both professionals and amateurs. Feast of San Piero de Casteo > 24 June -1 July Festa del Redentore / Feast of the Redeemer (15 July) > One of Venice’s best loved festivals, the event features a parade of boats in the Giudecca and fireworks. w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com  9


WHERE NOW | FOCUS

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Live art experience A guide to spending unforgettable days at the Biennale while browsing exhibitions and viewing contemporary performance art at some of Venice’s most beautiful locations. BY ROMENA BRUGNEROTTO

E

stablished in 1887 and often referred to as the ‘Olympics of the art world’, Venice’s Art Biennale is an event most people have heard about and would like to attend at least once in a lifetime. The opening week, and also the most soughtafter, boasts a cornucopia of inaugurations and parties dedicated to the celebration of art and contemporary artists: before setting out, make a list of highlights that are not to be missed because, depending on the time available, you might only be able to see a fraction of what’s on offer. However, now that the art world hordes have retreated and the Italians have left for the seaside, August is the perfect time to visit the Art Biennale.

At the Marinaressa Gardens in Riva dei Sette Martiri, visitors can admire the nine painted bronze sculptures of bathers by Carole Feuerman, an exhibition organized by the GAA Foundation and hosted by the European Cultural Centre.

A SHORT GUIDE TO THE BIENNALE There are two official exhibition sites: the Giardini and the Arsenale, two truly unique places. The Giardini because each country participating at the exposition has its own pavilion designed by a renowned architect (the pavilions alone deserve a separate visit) and the Arsenale because you’ll be stepping into one of the most important places in the history of the Republic of Venice, the former military dockyards where the boats that made the Serenissima famous for its trade with the East were built. The organizers of the Venice Biennale offer different types of tickets: forget about visiting the Giardini and the Arsenale in just one day. It’s advisable to opt for a multi-entry ticket so that you can enjoy the experience to the full without exhausting yourself. Before setting out, make sure that you’re well equipped: have a large breakfast and bring bottled water and something to snack on, like fruit or dried fruit, with you. If you suffer from low blood pressure, a few sticks of licorice are also advisable. Once you get there, food isn’t a problem because both locations offer well-equipped catering areas, including bars and restaurants. Try to avoid eating at 1pm, the set time for lunch in Italy. Plan on spending at least 4 hours at each location. This will give you time to sit down when you’re tired of walking and enable you to either enjoy some respite from the heat or watch a video installation. If you have any questions about the works displayed, and you’re bound to have many, don’t hesitate to ask w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com  11


WHERE NOW | FOCUS for help from either the pavilion assistants or other members of staff carrying Ipads and wearing ‘ask me’ T-shirts. Additionally, guided tours designed to enhance your viewing experience are available on a daily basis. Those in search of a personal guide should contact Best Venice Guide (info_EN@bestveniceguide.it) which also organizes tours for children. At each edition, Golden Lions are awarded to the best pavilions. This year, the German Pavilion, featuring a performance installation by Anne Imhof, won the coveted prize (since part of the work is a performance make sure to check the times when it’s on) with a special mention going to the Brazilian Pavilion displaying works by Cinthia Marcelle whose aim was to inform visitors about the country’s current political and economic crisis. In addition to 85 official national participants showing in the country pavilions in the Giardini, at the Arsenale and in off-site locations throughout Venice, hundreds of collateral events spill out of historic palazzos, churches, museums and squares across the city, many of which are usually closed to the public. What better opportunity to get to know Venice better? We’re not exaggerating when we tell you that you need at least one week to see all the events. The most complete guide is called ‘My Art Guide Venice 2017’: it’s small and handy and can be carried in your backpack. It’s available at bookshops across the city as well as at various Biennale locations (an App is also available). In addition to providing you with a detailed list, it also offers a short description of the works hosted at the pavilions visited.

ART ACCORDING TO CHRISTINE MACEL This year, French curator Christine Macel’s theme for the Biennale is ‘Viva Arte Viva’, offering, in very French fashion, “a journey from the interiority to infinity” through a sequence of 9 interconnected “Trans-pavilions” strategically located between the Giardini and the Arsenale, the idea being to put artists and artistic practice at the center. The curator has chosen works by both established and less well-known artists with the objective of infusing visitors and young artists with a new ‘positive, prospective energy’. She has achieved her goal and visitors can now immerse themselves in these works, be transported by their emotions and choose those that speak to their hearts. In some cases, you can actually walk into the work. One such example is the Shamanic tent-shaped structure by Brazilian artist Ernesto Neto titled ‘Um sagrado lugar’ (Sacred Place); a place where people can live in harmony with the world and nature while socializing and healing the soul. SEVERAL TIPS FROM WHERE® The Italian Pavilion at the Arsenale curated by Cecilia Alemanni deserves a special mention as does the work by Giorgio Andreotta Calò called ‘Untitled’ (The End of the World). Visitors enter the dark pavilion through a tunnel made from plastic tubes before climbing a set of stairs and emerging alongside an expanse of water. The dark pool reflects the entire beamed ceiling above, seemingly turning the world upside down. A disquieting work, that blurs the lines between dreams and reality.

A fairytale city Two massive hands, 9 metres high, rise from the Grand Canal and support the Ca’ Sagredo Hotel. These are the weeks when Venice, more than any other time of the year, resembles something out of a fairytale. Titled ‘Support’, this monumental sculpture by renowned artist Lorenzo Quinn was built for the 2017 Venice Art Biennale. The artist’s aim is to focus on the image of hands as a means of either support or destruction. His artwork conveys a desire to support this Venetian building, while simultaneously supporting Venice and the world; all of which are subjected to powerful climate changes and the destruction wrought by mankind. The artist based the hands on those of his son Anthony, and, by doing so, Lorenzo’s aim was to convey a message of hope. For him the hands represent an appeal to future generations to respond to the need to make significant changes in the world. This work was warmly received by Venetians and tourists alike and also, as noted by Lorenzo Quinn during its inauguration, by the Lagoon’s gondoliers, who are notoriously critical about any form of innovation in the city. The best way to admire this sculpture is from a boat on the Grand Canal or on the opposite bank, in the Rialto market area. (R.B.)

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Biennale Giardini

BROWSING THE BIENNALE From the Giardini to the Arsenale, from May to November, visitors to Venice can indulge in a delightful, intriguing, thought-provoking experience that offers insights on visual culture, urbanism, and the global art world: comfortable shoes, light clothes and a taste for exploration!


Claudia Fontes, ‘El Problema del Caballo’. Argentina Pavilion, Arsenale

‘Personal Structures - Open Borders’ at Palazzo Morra

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British Pavilion

Among the most widely visited and talked about, we suggest a visit to the Church of the Abbazia where Italian-Egyptian artist Omar Hassan has created a site-specific work that aims to investigate the dialogue between the classic and the contemporary, thus also affording visitors a chance to admire the church, a real gem of architecture! Another must-see is the national pavilion of Antigua and Barbuda at the Don Orione Artigianelli centre at the Zattere featuring works by the artist Frank Walter dedicated to the theme ‘The Last Universal Man’ (the first national participation by this country, this pavilion, curated by Barbara Paca, has received rave reviews from critics worldwide). Alternately, take an afternoon off and head to the Island of San Giorgio to visit all of the exhibitions currently showing there including Michelangelo Pistoletto’s ‘One and One makes Three’ conceived for the Basilica di San Giorgio Maggiore and for the adjoining spaces, the Sacristy, the Main Choir, the Sala del Capitolo and the Officina dell’Arte Spirituale. Another must-see is the exhibition titled ‘Personal Structures - Open Borders’ hosted at Palazzo Morra, showcasing works by internationally acclaimed artists each of whom expresses his or her personal reflections on the concepts of Time, Space and Existence. 14  W H E R E V E N I C E I AU G U S T 2017

EDITOR'S TIP A complex, ambitious project, billed as “10 years in the making.” Damien Hirst’s mythological extravaganza tells visitors about the findings of an archaeological excavation that salvaged the precious cargo of an ancient ship called the ‘Unbelievable’. Discovered in 2008, the ship carried an immense collection of sculptures, jewels and coins, amassed by Aulus Calidus Amotan, a freed slave turned wealthy man from Antioch. True or false? Visitors are greeted by a bizarre, ambiguous world, huge sculptures and collections of precious artifacts, dredged up from the depths of the ocean to generate questions and create disbelief. This vast exhibition is displayed across 5,000 square meters of museum space at Palazzo Grassi and Punta della Dogana, the two Venetian venues of the Pinault Collection, both dedicated for the first time ever to the works of a single artist. A unique experience: Damien Hirst’s first major solo exhibition in Italy is at once sensational, overwhelming and bizarre. Treasures from the Wreck of the Unbelievable 9 April - 3 December Palazzo Grassi, Campo San Samuele 3231 Punta della Dogana, Dorsoduro 2 Open 10am-7pm (closed on Tuesdays) www.palazzograssi.it Damien Hirst, Aspect of Katie Ishtar ¥o-landi (image photographed by Prudence Cuming Associates) © Damien Hirst and Science Ltd. All rights reserved, DACS/SIAE 2017


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SITE-SPECIFIC CREATIVITY The international pavilions at the Giardini and the Italian Pavilion at the Arsenale are must-visit places, often referencing 20th-century architecture. Every year, during the Biennale, they are enhanced by works of art whose appeal is heightened thanks to the skill of their curators whose choices are crucial to the success of the exhibition.

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If you’re looking for something a little more relaxing, we warmly recommend making a stopover at the Marinaressa Gardens hosting works by Carole Feuerman. Her hyperrealistic bathers are bound to infuse even the weariest travelers with a sense of calm. Several other astounding works are also on display outside the city. These include Lorenzo Quinn’s ‘Support’ on the Grand Canal at the Hotel Ca’ Sagredo and James Lee Byars’ 20-meter ‘Golden Tower’ in campo San Vio, at the Academy. Always on the Grand Canal, in front of Palazzo Grassi, a sculpture by artist Damien Hirst tempts visitors to step inside and visit the exhibition titled ‘Treasures from the Wreck of the Unbelievable’, a complex, highly ambitious project both in terms of its size and subject matter. The exhibition revolves around the narrative of a fictional, S. Servolo ancient ship wreck called the ‘unbelievable’, and reveals the underwater discovery of its precious cargo: an imposing collection of objects amassed by Cif Amotan II, a freed slave turned wealthy man from Antioch, who was transporting them to a legendary temple dedicated to the Sun god in the East. Is this story true or just something dreamt up by this incredible artist? Trying to fit everything into a week is near impossible! It might be a good idea to spend the entire summer in Venice!

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HOW TO GET THERE To reach the Arsenale: ACTV lines 1 and 4.1 To reach the Giardini: ACTV lines 1, 2, 4.1 and 5.1, (line 6 only from Piazzale Roma). Distance between the two venues: 15 minutes on foot. Services: Infopoint, free cloakroom service, bar, restaurant and bookshop. Accessibility: the route between the two venues is wheelchair accessible. Facilities for families: at the Arsenale, free stroller hire, baby changing space, nursing and feeding space for infants and a family-friendly area. At the Giardini; baby changing space and a nursing and feeding space. Pets: small pets are allowed on a leash in the green spaces at the Giardini. No pets are allowed at the Arsenale venue. Payment methods accepted: cash, debit and credit cards.

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The daring but scenically impact-making and ‘campielli’ and flank both sides of the bridge. of esoteric elements that are mixed in with N SAN CANCIANO D R IO C A L L AN E M L E on new design (1591) submitted by Antonio da the fish, lobsters I D and octopi sculpted S C U the W OLE E LL Ponte consisted of a single 22 meter stone arch capitals ofC Aits FROM HISTORY TO LEGEND colonnade. More attentive visitors CAMPO span, supported by a broad rectangular deck The history of this iconic bridge dates back to will also noticeNOVA a marble plaque embedded S.MARIA CAMPO DELLA CAL LE L Ashows carrying two arcades of shops and ‘botteghe’ the year 1000 when it was built as a pontoon in one of its red brick facades, which N PESCARIA RGA IA Z AN C G. N A S A D A fronting on three roadways. bridge at the canal’s narrowest point. Due to regulations set centuries ago for minimumG A L L IN A S A L IZ RI O allowable sizes for lagoon fish. increased traffic it was replaced with a wooden DE CAMPO DE LA IM IR THE FAMOUS MARKET bridge in 1181, known as the ‘Ponte della BECARIE San Giovanni AC CAL OL LE D CAMPO CAMPO CurrentlyGrisostomo Venice’s market par excellence, it is Moneta’ both due to the toll that people had FOR SHOPPING ADDICTS EL F I ORN CESARE BATTISTI O CAL L E GIÀ the city’s divided into the Pescaria, where fish caught to pay when crossing it and because However, Rialto also C A Smeans shopping. While SANTI GIOVA TEL LI DELLA strolling through the ‘rione’s’ tiny streets or when E PAOLO Teatro Malibran BELLA VIENNA CAMPO C A LL E D E LEseveral crossing its bridge, you’ll come across SAN GIACOMETO ERBE CA CORTE SECONDA DE M unusual shops that are imbued with the L PIE San Giacomo DEL MILION SA L NS LO atmosphere of a bygone era. 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WHERE NOW | SHOPPING

GIFT

GUIDE In summer, spending a little time in search of a new accessory, a jewel or a special gift, becomes even more pleasurable. Take advantage of a stroll through the picturesque ‘calli’ of Venice to treat yourself to some alluring detail of style. Where guarantees that you won’t leave empty-handed!

► OTTICA MANTOVANI These ‘Emma Grigio Strass’ prescription glasses, encrusted with luminous diamonds, boast a unique design featuring a combination of vintage lines and frames with a funky shape that highlight the shape of the eyebrows. www.otticamantovani.it

◄ SALVADORI DIAMOND ATELIER

High-class Venetian jewelers Salvadori bring the past into the present with this stunning new bracelet featuring a double ‘S’ in platinum and diamonds, set on a bracelet in antique pink leather. www.salvadori-venezia.com

®

FOR HER ◄ MICHAEL KORS Animal prints and discreet lines infuse this ‘Blue Tiger Print’ caftan by MICHAEL Michael Kors with a strong yet sophisticated personality. www.michaelkors.it ▲ CHIARA SCARPITTI Featuring a mix of metal elements and long black fabric tassels, these earrings from the ‘Ushabti’ collection swing sensually with every movement of the body. www.chiarascarpitti.com

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► ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA Crafted in suede and grained calfskin leather with elasticized inserts, this ‘Triple Stitch Slip-on’ sneaker effortlessly combines the ease of slip-on shoes with the elegance of Italian craftsmanship. www.zegna.it

▼ PAUL SMITH Featuring a two-button placket and a classic collar, enhanced by multi-coloured inside trim, this pure white cotton polo shirt adds a touch of understated elegance to the summer wardrobes of fashion-conscious men. www.alducadaosta.com

FOR HIM ► JAEGER-LECOULTRE Behind the apparent simplicity of its pure design and clearcut lines, the ‘Geophysic True Second’ steel watch houses a fine watchmaking caliber that is full of surprises. The eye is drawn to its seductive contrasting details, luxurious finishes and interchangeable steel strap. www.jaeger-lecoultre.com

▼ ETRO Crafted from cotton and linen, to guarantee durability, this bag features a mix of iconic Paisley motifs, an adjustable shoulder strap and leather details. Ideal for men who enjoy travelling in style. www.etro.com

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Fragile beauty Craftsmanship, originality and innovation. These are the three hallmark features that make Venini’s Murano glass creations true icons of art. By Stefania Vida

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he story of Venini is a journey into the history of Venetian glass art… an art that is as ancient as it is beautiful. Since 1921, it has gained international recognition for a uniqueness that stems from bringing the art of glassmaking into the larger context of art by collaborating with celebrated architects and designers. In 1987, the company signed an agreement with Alessandro Mendini, a living legend in the field of international design and architecture, and the 1990s marked the beginning of a collaboration with eclectic architect and industrial designer Ettore Sottsass. Other illustrious contributors include Gae Aulenti, Mario Bellini, Timo Sarpaneva and Fulvio Bianconi (renowned for the iconic ‘Handkerchief’ vases). The results are unique creations with an intangible 20  W H E R E V E N I C E I AU G U S T 2017

value derived from the human touch that brought it to life. Each Venini object is unique, just like the instant when the item was forged and took on its final shape. Those wishing to further their knowledge about glass art can visit the Venini Museum, a real treasure trove of unique pieces. Its archives feature more than 45,000 designs by international artists including Carlo Scarpa, Gio Ponti, Napoleone Martinuzzi, Tapio Wirkkala, Fulvio Bianconi and Tadao Ando; 10,000 period photos, depicting architectural installations, past exhibitions and the people who worked with Venini, and 5,000 works, including several prototypes that were never released on the market as well as a collection of extremely rare artist drafts!

Art light in multicolor hand-made blown glass by italian designer Gio Ponti (1946).

>> Venini Fondamenta Vetrai, 47 (Murano) San Marco, 314 (Venezia) www.venini.com


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM

The

Guidelines ACCESSORIES

This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. MAP LOCATIONS- Note that references in bold at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 62-63. TRANSPORT-References to vaporetto lines and stops are based on departure from the Santa Lucia railway station. SHOPPING -Shopping hours are generally from

10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Venice) and on Monday mornings. Ask your concierge. Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.

»

TAX-FREE SHOPPING

By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund. UnionPay Service Hotline: 00 800 800 95516 e-mail: europe@unionpayintl.com

UnionPay is a global payment network originated from China, responsible for the inter-bank payment via UnionPay system worldwide. By March 2017, over 450,000 merchants in Italy accept UnionPay card for payment, among which 35,000 merchants are located in Venice. This allows hundred of thousands of affluent Chinese customers to shop with their favourite cards. UnionPay also actively work with famous retail groups, such as DFS Group, McArthurGlen Designer outlets, SINA hotels, Airport dutyfree shops, to provide special discount or services for UnionPay cardholders. DINING

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30 € or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. SIGHTSEEING

Information about our selection of museums and monuments is checked as carefully as possible. However, telephone numbers, opening hours, works displayed and site accessibility are subject to change depending on the time of the year, restorations, loans or changes in management. Ask your concierge.

Anatema

Rossana Righini delights customers with her scarves, brooches, costume jewelry, bags, hats and silk, handmade ties. Her windows and display cases express the owner’s philosophy: “The culture of beauty, the magic of elegance”. PASSION TIP Anatema also stocks small Murano glass jewelry. Open daily 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. www.anatema.it. San Polo, 2603. T: 041 5242221. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Artistic glass in Murano

Fanny Gloves

Colourful, handmade gloves, from the most classic to the most eccentric, lined with cashmere, silk or lapin. Since 2001, Giorgio Fontanive has continued to run this family-owned business, established by his father-in-law, a Neapolitan glove maker. The brand recently opened a second branch in Cannaregio, in Rio Terà San Leonardo. Open daily 9.30am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7.30pm. www.fannygloves. it. San Polo, 2723 (Calle Saoneri) T. 041 5228266. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D2

Francis Model

Stylish, high-quality bags with a focus on colour. Established in 1965, this small artisanal ‘bottega’ has always remained faithful to the diktats of Made in Italy craftsmanship. Located just steps from the Rialto Bridge, Ruggero De Zorzi devotes himself to his craft with pride and passion. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.francismodel.it. San Polo, 773/A (Ruga Ravano). T: 041 5212889. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato stop). Map E3

Giovanna Zanella

For the past ten years, Venetian designercobbler Giovanna Zanella has been creating exclusive lines of shoes for men and women at her workshop located just a stone’s throw from the Rialto Bridge. Each pair is endowed with its own, unrepeatable personality and Giovanna refers to them as “magical, haute couture creations” because they are often enhanced by a surprise element like touches of nylon, cobra heads, pistils or fringes. Open Mon-Sat 1.30pm-8pm. www. giovannazanella.it. Castello, 5641 (Calle near Campo San Lio). T: 041 5235500. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Giuliana Longo

A milliner boasting a longstanding family tradition dating back to the early 20th century, Giuliana Longo’s fame has spread far beyond the boundaries of Venice, thanks to her unique Venetian aesthetic. Her shop is the dream hatcupboard of any true sartorialist, amidst old-world furnishings, original panama hats and handmade headgear. PASSION TIP The only shop in town where you can find authentic gondolier’s hats. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.giulianalongo. com. San Marco, 4813 (Calle del Lovo). T: 041 5226454. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

La Parigina

An historic Venetian shoe shop which has been producing its own-name sleek, butter-soft leather shoes for men and women since the 1940s. It also stocks a wide selection of international brands including Church’s, Timberland, Camper, Michael Kors, Bikkemberg sandals and Siton loafers. La Parigina also carries an assortment of luxury

Glassmaking had already become an integral part of life in the Venetian lagoon in the 7th century B.C. Furthermore, after the year 1000 A.D. its production had become so important that it was protected by specific laws and all the glass workshops were moved to Murano. It was here that eyeglasses were invented in the 13th century and here that, in 1369, mirrors began to be produced. Glass was a rare commodity throughout the Renaissance: it was only in 1827 that production on an industrial level began. At that point, blown glass or glass produced by lampworking became a highly prized material used for artistic purposes, achieving its height of splendor during the Art Nouveau period. Artists including Lalique, Dammouse and Tiffany sought out the glassblowers of Murano to produce their famous works. During the mid-20th century, real masters of the art began to emerge in Murano including Signoretto, Ballarin, Zanetti and Vidal and their works are true collectors’ items which are often displayed at museums. Murano today has numerous glass factories, several of which boast an age-old history or a list of particularly prestigious collaborations (i.e. Venini).

sportswear. www.laparigina.it. Open daily 10am7.30pm. San Marco, 733. T: 041 5231555. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4 • Open daily 9am-1pm/4pm-8pm. Venezia Lido, Gran Viale S. M. Elisabetta 14, T: 041 2420475. Vaporetto line 2 (Lido stop). Off Map

Michele De Fina

Highly select leather shoes, its owner oversees each stage of the working process from the cutting of the leather to the end creation. Craftsmanship and Italian style are the hallmark traits of Venetian shoe designer Michele De Fina. Open daily 10am-1pm/2pm-7pm. www.micheledefina.com. San Marco, 318/A (Calle della Canonica). T: 041 3030189. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop or San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

René Caovilla

In the 1950s, twenty-year-old René started working w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com  21


[ FA SHION DESIGNERS]

Luxury Top Brands A new addition every day! The world of designer boutiques in Venice is making waves, and the majority of big-name brands are located around St. Mark’s Square, the great heart of Venice. By heading towards the Accademia from St. Mark’s Square, you will find yourself in Calle Larga XXII Marzo, the widest street in the city, lined with the window displays of the most coveted international brands. A system of ‘calli’ (the word for street in Venetian dialect) known as the ‘Mercerie’ leads from the Clock Tower in St. Mark’s Square to the Rialto, where Venice’s old ‘botteghe’ (workshops) have now been replaced by luxury boutiques. DEPARTMENT STORES T FONDACO DEI TEDESCHI—Tfondaco.com Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge) T: 041 3142000. Map F3 COIN EXCELSIOR—www.coinexcelsior.com Cannaregio, 5787 (Rialto Bridge) T: 041 5203581. Map F3

BOTTEGA VENETA—www.bottegaveneta.com San Marco, 1473 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5228489. Map F5

ETRO—www.etro.com San Marco, 1340 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5232599. Map F5

BULGARI—www.bulgari.com San Marco, 1494. T: 041 2410553. Map F4

FENDI—www.fendi.com San Marco, 1582 (Calle Frezzaria). T: 041 2778532. Map F4

BURBERRY—it.burberry.com San Marco, 2308 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 240291. Map E5

FRATELLI ROSSETTI—www.fratellirossetti.com Campo San Salvador, 4800. T: 041 5230571. Map F4 • San Marco, 1477 (San Moisè). T: 041 5220819. Map F5

CARTIER—www.cartier.it San Marco, 1474/1495 (Calle San Moisè). T: 041 8842511. Map F4 CHANEL —www.chanel.com San Marco, 2070 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2405399. Map E5 CHANEL BEAUTY San Marco, 1254/A. T: 041 2708699. Map F3

GUCCI—www.gucci.com San Marco, 2102 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2413968. Map F4 • San Marco, 258 (Mercerie). T: 041 5229119. Map E5

CHURCH’S—www.church-footwear.com San Marco, 1316 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2410147. Map F5

HERMÈS—italy.hermes.com San Marco, 1292 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2410715. Map F5

DAMIANI —www.damiani.com San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Map F5

HUGO BOSS—www.hugoboss.com Piazza San Marco, 80 (Bacino Orseolo 1218). T: 041 5224378. Map F4

DIOR— www.dior.com San Marco, 1255 (Calle Larga de l’Ascension). T: 041 2411636. Map F5

LORO PIANA—www.loropiana.com San Marco Ascensione, 1301. T: 041 2770695. Map F5

DOLCE&GABBANA—www.dolcegabbana.it San Marco, 2188 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5209991. Map F4

LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com San Marco, 1345. T: 041 5224500. Map F5

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA—www.zegna.com Bocca di Piazza San Marco, 1241. T: 041 5221204. Map F4

MAX MARA—it.maxmara.com San Marco, 5033 (Mercerie). T: 041 5226688. Map F5 MICHAEL KORS—www.michaelkors.comwww.michaelkors.it San Marco, 1461 (Campo San Moisè). T: 041 2960312. Map F5 MISSONI— www.missoni.com San Marco, 1318/A (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5205733. Map F5

BALLY—www.bally.it San Marco, 4919-4921 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5285839. Map F4 BOGGI MILANO—www.boggi.com San Marco, 1744 (Bacino Orseolo). T: 041 2960321. Map E4 • Stazione Santa Lucia (Fondamenta S. Lucia, 20). T: 041 5246445. Map C3

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GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani.com San Marco, 2282 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 8503048. Map F4

CHOPARD—www.chopard.com Piazza San Marco, 51. T: 041 5231883. Map F4

BALENCIAGA—www.balenciaga.com San Marco, 1310 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5230806. Map F5

BORSALINO—www.borsalino.com San Marco, 4822 (Calle del Lovo). T: 041 2411945. Map F4

FURLA—www.furla.com San Marco, 4833 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 2770460.Map F4

Crafted in red ‘intrecciata’ nappa, the BOTTEGA VENETA document holder is a practical, elegant accessory.

MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com San Marco, 1471 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 8106066. Map F5 MONCLER—www.moncler.com San Marco, 2088 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2960605. Map E5 MONTBLANC—www.montblanc.com San Marco, 2380 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2413747. Map F5


MONTBLANC’s ‘Signature’ acetate sunglasses boast rounded frames and light titanium details.

TOD’S—www.tods.com San Marco, 2251 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5206603. Map E5 VERSACE—www.versace.com San Marco, 1462 (Campo San Moisè). T: 041 5200057. Map F5

The ‘Ace’ sneaker by GUCCI is enhanced by the brand’s signature web trim.

PRADA—www. prada.com San Marco, 1464/1469 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5283966. Map F5 RENÉ CAOVILLA— www.renecaovilla.com San Marco, 1296. T: 041 5238038. Map F4

Sizing

ROBERTO CAVALLI— www.robertocavalli. com San Marco, 1314. T: 041 5299020. Map F5

Women clothes IT EUR US UK 36 32 1 4 38 34 2 6 40 36 4 8 42 38 6 10 44 40 8 12 46 42 10 14 48 44 12 16

ROCCA 1794— www.rocca1794.com Piazza San Marco, 125. T: 041 5201014. Map F4 SAINT LAURENT—www.ysl.com San Marco, 1302. T: 041 5202211. Map F4 SALVADORI DIAMOND ATELIER— www.salvadori-venezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Map F4

Women shoes IT EUR US UK 36 36 6 3 37 37 6.5 4 38 38 7.5 5 39 39 8.5 6 40 40 9 7 41 41 9.5 8

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— www.ferragamo.com. San Marco, 2098 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2778509. Map E5 SWAROVSKI—www.swarovski.com San Marco, 256 (Mercerie dell’Orologio). T: 041 5210618. Map F4

Men clothes IT EUR US UK 50 46 36 36 52 48 38 38 54 50 40 40 56 52 42 42 58 54 44 44 60 56 46 46

SWATCH—www.swatch.com San Marco, 5022 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5228532. Map F4 TIFFANY & CO.—www.tiffany.it San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Map F5

Men shoes IT EUR US UK 40 40 7.5 6 41 41 8 7 42 42 8.5 8 43 43 9 9 44 44 10.5 10 45 45 11.5 11 46 46 12 12 CHANEL’s ‘Les Vernis’ long-wear nail polishes illuminate nails in striking shades of coral, pink or pearl grey.

A combination of different, superimposed patterns adds a chic, youthful, trendy touch to this MICHAEL MICHAEL KORS ensemble. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com  23


SHOPPING

Tax Free Refund Guide 1. VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a value added tax on goods and services, and is part of the European Union’s value added tax system. 2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a VAT refund. This refund does not cover the services supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies. 3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: • you are a non EU resident; • the goods purchased are intended for personal or family use only and are carried in your luggage; • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds 154,94 Euro (VAT included); • the purchase is certified by an invoice. This invoice should include a description of the goods purchased, your personal information as well as the details of your passport or any other equivalent document; • the goods leave EU territory by the end of the third month after the month that you bought them; • several specific customs formalities are complied with; • the invoice is returned to the Italian retailer within four months after the purchase was made. 4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must be shown at the customs exit point when leaving EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items into your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs BEFORE checking in). 5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return the original invoice, regularly endorsed by the customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice must be returned within four months from the date when the document was issued. 6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian retailer (however, make sure that the shop you’ve chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax Free” sign in its window). 7. Several Tax-Free companies are able to offer immediate VAT cash refunds when the goods leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating the passenger from having to return the invoice to the retailer). However, this procedure only applies at major international airports or main border crossings. Most major department stores have Tax Free Refund offices. 8. The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply the payment of a small administrative sum which is directly deducted from the amount of VAT refunded to the traveller. 9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund within a reasonable period of time, he or she should re-contact the Italian retailer or one of the aforementioned companies. 10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded directly by customs offices. Source: www.agenziadoganemonopoli.gov.it/ portale/ee/citizen/vta-refund

24  W H E R E V E N I C E I AU G U S T 2017

at his family’s footwear factory, revealing his talent as a ‘footwear sculptor’. Based in Venice, he has collaborated with fashion houses of the likes of Valentino, Dior, Galliano, Chanel and is noted for the stunning line of "jewel shoes" he co-created with Karl Lagerfeld. Shoe-designer to the stars, A-listers who adore his creations include Gwen Stefani, Robin Wright, Britney Spears and Sarah Jessica Parker. PASSION TIP His pumps in Venetian lace are truly iconic! Open daily 10am-7pm. www.renecaovilla. com. San Marco, 1296. T: 041 5238038. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

SV Lab

As its name suggests, more than a shop, SV Lab is a creative workshop that its owner Carlo Sartori likes to describe as “his parallel world”. Not just a shop selling shoes and accessories - a place where you can create a sophisticated, eccentric total look - but also an open space where it is not unusual to find artists at work... Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-6pm. www.svlab.it. San Marco, 2663 (Campo

San Maurizio). T: 041 5220595. Vaporetto line 1 (Giglio stop). Map E5

CLOTHING MEN & WOMEN Al Duca d'Aosta

Originally established in Venice in 1902, Al Duca d’Aosta now boasts stores in six cities across the Triveneto region: Venice, Padua, Verona, Mestre, Treviso and Udine. The historical four-storey Venice location features over 100 top fashion brands for men and women, carefully selected to offer its clientele quality and elegance. These include casual men’s lines for a sporty-chic look, sartorial designs for savvy-style gentlemen and women’s wear, featuring the iconic accessories of the latest collections, including small leather goods and bijoux, for a glamorous, cosmopolitan aesthetic. The store offers numerous special facilities and services for its customers, including a Personal Shopping service

The Rialto Market

Rialto Market A trip to Venice is not complete without a visit to the Rialto Market, possibly one of the city’s most authentic and traditional experiences. This is one of Venice’s most ancient markets, a one-of-a-kind place crowded with Venetians, shopkeepers and tourists eager to shop. It is located near the Rialto Bridge, on the San Polo side, extending across the Canal Grande, between Campo San Giacomo and Campo della Pescaria. Campo San Giacomo is a beautiful square surrounded by a portico called Sottoportego del Bancogiro, an ancient bank where merchants would gather to negotiate. If you’d like to try the famous 'cicchetti', accompanied by a glass of wine or a spritz, a number of 'bacari', Venice’s traditional ‘osterie’, can also be found in the area. Several of these bars face

onto the opposite side of the building, on a magnificent plaza crowded with tables, and from here, if you walk along the river, you’ll reach a large food market, and finally, the Pescaria, the famous Fish Market. From early morning, on any day of the week (except Sunday) this vibrant place is frequented by Venetian locals, who regularly shop here, browsing its colourful stalls that are located under a loggia near the Grand Canal. Inscriptions about fish-related regulatory measures, proclaimed by the Republic of Venice, can still be found on the walls! >> Fish Market: Open Tues-Sat 7.30amnoon. Food Market: Mon-Sat 7.30am1.30pm. San Polo 330-338 (Campo della Pescaria). Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato) or traghetto from Campo Santa Sofia (€2).


SHOPPING and Tax Free Shopping. Open Mon-Sat 10am7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.alducadaosta.com. San Marco, 4945. T: 041 5220733. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Boggi Milano

An easy yet sophisticated look for businessmen on the go, but, above all, a guarantee of style for those who appreciate quality. Boggi Milano offers garments aimed at a contemporary, modern and cosmopolitan man who is not prepared to sacrifice the classics of the male wardrobe: the suit, a second skin that is so comfortable that it can be worn on any occasion. Other locations: Cannaregio (inside the Santa Lucia Railway Station, Platform 6- Fondamenta Santa Lucia, 20) and Marco Polo Airport. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. www. boggi.it. San Marco, 1744 (Bacino Orseolo). T: 041 2960321. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Pot-Pourrì

Three exclusive boutiques set against the magnificent backdrop of Palazzo Regina Vittoria in the heart of Venice. Pot-Pourrì carries clothing and fashion accessories for him and her, artisanal Madein-Italy collections and a selection of international brands, skillfully mixed with the flair for which the brand is renowned. Couture dresses, handcrafted accessories and knitwear woven in cashmere, silk and natural fibers. The boutiques also stock a selection of accessories and homeware inspired by a classical contemporary aesthetic including knick-knacks and objet d’art for the home, bathroom and table (also ideal for wedding gift lists). Private boat landing stage. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www. potpourri.it. Womenswear: San Marco, 1810 (Ramo dei Fuseri) - T: 041 2410990. Menswear: 1811/m (Ramo dei Fuseri) - T: 041 5221332. Homewares: San Marco, 1820/m (Frezzeria) - T: 041 5201996. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 San Marco Vallaresso stop Map E4

DEPARTMENT STORES Coin Excelsior

Located in Cannaregio, just a few steps from the Rialto Bridge, this luxury department store store extends over four floors surrounding the original indoor courtyard where designer Felice Limosani’s lighting installation is showcased. The store provides a selection of both Italian and International fashion brands, as well as furniture (on the top floor), cosmetics and luxury perfumery (ground floor). Open daily 10am-8.30pm. www.coinexcelsior.com. Cannaregio, 5787. T: 041 5203581. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F3

FASHION OUTLETS Noventa di Piave Designer Outlet

With more than 130 stores, cafés and restaurants, visitors can find their favourite labels with price reductions of up to 70%, all year round, and further discounts at the annual summer and winter sales. From iconic fashion brands like Prada, Gucci, Armani, Fendi, Jil Sander and Paul Smith to sporting labels, like Nike and X-Bionic, and high-street favourites, like Guess and Desigual. Easy to reach from Venice, Treviso, Jesolo, Padua and the beaches in the region, it offers endless entertainment, from the children’s adventure play area to restaurants and cafés and even an annual summer music festival. Tax refund for Non-EU citizens. Open daily 10am-10pm. www.mcarthurglen.com. Via Marco Polo, 1 (Noventa di Piave, 30 minutes from Venice). T: 0421 5741. Off Map

Palmanova Outlet Village

Just one hour from Venice, Palmanova Outlet Village offers 90 stores with the trendiest brands discounted by up to 70% and open all year around: Adidas-Reebok, Aldo Bruè, Baldinini, Alberta Ferretti-Moschino, Calvin Klein, Fedon, Iceberg, Ixos-Malloni, Nike, Piquadro, Pollini and many others. Tax refund for Non-EU citizens. In addition to shopping, Palmanova Outlet Village makes you discover a land full of history and taste: the picturesque hills of the Collio region, the landscapes of Friuli’s Dolomites and the Alps, close to the Karst plateau with the historical sites of the Great War and the star-shaped city of Palmanova, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Open daily 10am8pm. www.palmanovaoutlet.it. Take the A4 highway

Venezia-Trieste and exit at Palmanova. Infoline: T: 0432 837810. Off Map

JEWELRY & WATCHES Audemars Piguet

A must-visit stopover for luxury watch lovers. A purveyor of classic watches since 1875, Audemars Piguet is the place to go for elegant timepieces, made to the very highest standards. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-6.30pm. www.audemarspiguet.com. Piazza San Marco, 18. T: 041 5285519. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Boncompagni Venezia

This historic boutique in St. Mark’s Square stocks some of Italy’s most coveted jewelry brands, offering its clientele a unique selection of beautifully crafted pieces. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-6pm. www.boncompagnivenezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 130/131/132. T: 041 5224563. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Cartier

In addition to its renowned collections of haute joaillerie, Cartier is also famous for its priceless timepieces, a perfect mix of design and technology, enhanced by precious metals and diamonds. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am7pm. www.cartier.it. San Marco, 1474/1475 (Calle San Moisè). T: 041 8842511. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

Chopard

Famed for its creativity, state-of-the-art technology and outstanding savoir-faire, the Swiss Jewelry

In the heart of Venice near the Rialto Bridge, this is a unique boutique and workshop where precious stones are cut and transformed into genuine, wearable works of art. For more than thirty years, Gems of Venice has sourced several of the world's most precious stones including jade, diamonds and gems… taking us back to the fascinating voyages of Venetian merchant Marco Polo.

T Fondaco dei Tedeschi

The recently renovated 16th century building that extends over 7000 sqm is a luxury shopping, food and cultural destination. Surrounding a central courtyard, the store offers the best in leading Italian and international fashion brands, accessories, jewellery and watches, wines and spirits, beauty and fragrances, food and a rich selection of local gifts. Don’t miss the specially curated cultural program on the 4th floor and the breathtaking view from the roof terrace. In partnership with Premier Tax Free, the store will also offer an instant detax at the cash desk when the payment is made by credit card, the first of this kind in Europe. Open daily 10am-8.30pm. www.TFondaco.com. Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge). T: 041 3142000. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3

www.gemsofvenice.it San Polo, 1044 (Ruga Rialto-Rughetta Ravano) T: 041 5225148

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SHOPPING brand opens doors to jet-set luxury and glamour, while its traditional watches are made with all the aplomb of a master craftsman. Open daily 10.15am-6.30pm. www.chopard.it. Piazza San Marco, 51. T: 041 5231883. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

then processed at its workshop near the Rialto Bridge, in the heart of Venice, to become authentic wearable art. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-9.30pm; Sun 10.30am2pm/3.30pm-6.30pm. San Polo, 1044. T: 041 5225148. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop).

Damiani

Map E4

A reference point in the world of high-end jewelry, Damiani is renowned for its unmistakable style and innovative technical solutions, including its ‘a lunette d’illusione’ setting designed to highlight the brilliance of its stones. www.damiani.com. San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Dodo

The range of luxurious yet cute gold jewelry created by Dodo, the brand founded by Pomellato in 1995, is by now a classic either for gift or collection purposes thanks to its iconic good luck charms, each of which has its own special meaning. www.dodo.it. c/o Coin Excelsior (www.coinexcelsior.com). Cannaregio, 5787. T: 041 5203581. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F3

Gems of Venice

For more than thirty years, Gems of Venice has sourced the most precious stones, which are

IWC Schaffhausen

Swiss watchmaker IWC has opened an elegant space in Venice’s famed and fabled St. Mark’s Square. The brand’s new boutique, located in one of the most beautiful cities in the world, is a must-visit for any watch enthusiast. Fans of its luxury timepieces are invited to discover the fascinating world of IWC’s six watch families, its innovative craftsmanship and all the allure of high-end watchmaking. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-6.30pm. www. iwc.com. Piazza San Marco, 43. T: 041 8842451. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

Jaeger-LeCoultre

A meeting place for collectors and haute horlogerie enthusiasts, at this boutique customers will have the pleasure of discovering the latest creations and exquisite timepieces

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Collection pays tribute to the strength and spirit of the modern woman.

designed by this master of Swiss watchmaking. Open daily 10am-7pm. www.jaeger-lecoultre.com. Piazza San Marco, 65. T: 041 884241. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F5

Nardi Venezia

A combination of a love of precious stones and a passion for the art of goldsmithery make Nardi’s jewelry rare accessories to be worn or collected, the epitome of sheer Venetian elegance. Open daily 10am-6.30pm. www.nardi-venezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 69. T: 041 5225733. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F5

Omega

Omega is a pioneer in the field of watchmaking. Quality and innovation are key to the vision of one of Switzerland’s most famous haute horologists. At its Venetian boutique, you can find all the excellence of these precious creations thanks to its extensive collection of luxurious timepieces for men and women. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.omegawatches.com. San Marco, 1291. T: 041 5220820. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco stop or San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Pomellato

Established in 1967 as an artisanal workshop, over the years, its contemporary jewelry has captivated wearers around the world. Pomellato creates highly sought-after collections featuring a range of stones boasting myriad colours and ultra-feminine designs. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.pomellato.com. San Marco, 2031 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5231909. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Rocca 1794

An exclusive perfume collection In addition to other lines, at the boutiques of Venetian artistic perfumery brand, The Merchant of Venice, you can discover the men’s collection Nobil Homo. A line inspired by Venetian Nobles, men of the world, curious and cosmopolitan travellers whose wealth derives from travels and trade. The Nobil Homo collection is composed by five Eau de Parfum perfectly connected with the concept behind the masculine line of the brand: ‘Venetian blue’, ‘Esperidi Water’, ‘Dalmatian Sage’, ‘Sultan Leather’ and ‘Ottoman Amber’. Each fragrance is contained within a precious glass bottle that takes inspiration from the style and colours of traditional fabric and is sealed with a precious silver cap: a guarantee proposal of the highest quality of Venetian perfumery. www.themerchantofvenice.com Flagship Store San Marco, 1895 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 2960559. Spezieria all’Ercole d’Oro Cannaregio, 2233 (Strada Nova, Santa Fosca). T: 041 720600. Concept Store Murano Fondamenta dei vetrai, 114 (Murano). T: 041 5274297.

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The boutique’s sweeping window display, overlooking the famous St. Mark’s Square, host the collections of prestigious brands including Damiani and Salvini, but also the iconic models of some of the world’s most coveted high-end watchmakers including A. Lange & Söhne, piaget, Hublot, Zenith and Longines. Also particularly worthy of note are the splendid creations in glass handcrafted by Venini, unique artifacts that add a definite touch of allure to the space. Expert collectors or those who are new to the game can count on a service of excellence which entails full pre- and post-sale assistance. Other services include a full maintenance service with check ups and providing international certificates. www.rocca1794.com. Open daily 10.30am-7pm. Piazza San Marco, 125. T: 02 5201014. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Salvadori

ROLEX RETAILER Salvadori was founded in Venice in 1857. A member of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses, Salvadori purchases its diamonds from Antwerp and Tel Aviv, accompanied by the highest diamond quality certificates. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-6.30pm. www. salvadori-venezia.eu. Diamond Atelier Venice: Piazza San Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Salvadori Boutique Rolex: Piazza San Marco, 44. T: 041 2602313. Salvadori Boutique Panerai: Piazza San Marco, 47. T: 041


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Eredi Jovon's cameo

La Bottega dei Mascareri

Artisanal ‘botteghe’, tiny jewel-like boutiques and vintage shops, this 'unique' city offers an array of 'unique' locations where you can indulge in an authentic shopping experience and purchase objet d’art, fabrics and accessories that you'll be hard put to find elsewhere. While strolling through its ‘calli’, you will discover how the tradition cultivated by the latter endows this city with its characteristic vibrancy… for the theatre, the cinemas and fashion shows, and are considered among several of the most established manufacturers of collector’s items. They were the first mask makers to embellish their masks with decorations by Tiepolo. Open daily 9am-6pm. www.mascarer.com. San Polo, 80 (Vaporetto line 1 or 2, Rialto stop). T: 041 5223857 and San Polo, 2720 T: 041 5242887 (Vaporetto line 1 or 2, San Tomà stop). Map E3

Tessitura Bevilacqua La Bottega dei Mascareri The workshop of the Boldrin brothers specializes in the crafting of a variety of papier mache Venetian masks, including jesters, elves and characters from the ‘Commedia dell’Arte’ for a trip back into 18th century Venice. The Mascareri have also worked

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Eredi Jovon A celebrated Venetian jeweler since 1934, and the owner of one of the few remaining historical shops on the Rialto bridge, Eredi Jovon is famous for its hand-carved Italian shell and blue agate cameos, set in silver or gold, and available at factory prices or on special offer. The shop is also renowned for its beautiful coral, Murano glass and blackamoor jewelry. High quality, superior craftsmanship and its wide assortment of cameos and customized coral jewelry allow Eredi Jovon to satisfy the individual tastes of even the most discerning customers. WHERE TIP Eredi Jovon daily crafts fully handmade cameos, created upon request based on a picture. All creations can be ordered online and shipped all around the world, thanks to an efficient e-commerce service. Open daily 10am7.30pm. www.eredijovon.com. Ponte di Rialto,

Piedàterre

5325. T: 041 5228979 (Vaporetto line 1 or 2, Rialto stop). Map F4 Piedàterre Tucked away under an arcade just steps from the Rialto bridge is a tiny boutique with an astonishing selection of handmade slippers, where Alessandra and Renato make and sell colourful ‘furlane’ (slippers), handcrafted with recycled bicycle-tyre treads, ideal for finding your footing on a gondola. Their creations are available in coloured velvet, brocade, printed fabrics or recycled shirting, provided by their customers. Highly original and absolutely unmissable! Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.piedaterre-venice.com. San Polo, 60 (Ruga Rialto, Sotoportego dei Oresi). T: 041 5285513. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato). Map E3 Tessitura Bevilacqua Artisanal weavers specializing in the production of exquisite, decorative fabrics for furnishings and curtains. A unique place! Since 1875, the company has practiced the art of weaving on original looms that once belonged to the Venetian School of Silk. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-4pm (Sat-Sun by appointment). www.luigi-bevilacqua.com. Santa Croce 1320. T: 041 721566. Vaporetto line 1 (Riva de Biasio stop). Map E5


ADVERTORIAL

OTTICA MANTOVANI Sun and prescription glasses, the most technologically advanced lenses and the most comfortable, fashionable frames. Managed by the Carlon family since the ‘40s, it is now run by the third generation of opticians: a reference point for locals requiring either prescription eyewear or sunglasses. In fact, one of the Mantovani’s most famous customers was Peggy Guggenheim. Map F4 www.xxxxxx.org Viale xxxxx, 6 www.otticamantovani.it T:San 02 xxxxx Marco, 4860 (Mercerie del Capitello). More www.wheremilan.com T: 041info: 5223427.

NICOLAO ATELIER An artisanal tailor’s shop that makes Venetian-style period costumes for movies, plays, commercials and Carnival parties. More than 10,000 sets of underwear, accessories, headgear and capes, all exhibited in an elegant premises in the centre of Venice that comprise a workshop, a showroom and the entire costume collection. Map E2

www.nicolao.com Cannaregio, 2590 (Fondamenta della Misericordia). T: 041 5207051.

ROMA 1947 ‘Roma 1947’, the jewelry brand inspired by ‘La Dolce Vita’ and Italian style, recently launched its first standalone store just steps from St. Mark’s Square. Crafted in silver and bronze, and reinterpreted in a contemporary key, the brand’s rings, bracelets, necklaces and earrings reference the voluptuous shapes of Roman domes and the colours of the Eternal City’s stunning sunset views. Map F4 roma1947.it San Marco, 231.

OFFICINA BERNARDI The Bernardi brothers, Francesco and Carlo, recently opened their first monobrand store in the city. Authentic Italian style, exquisite designs and meticulous craftsmanship characterize the precious gold and silver collections of this brand who have made Italian creativity their signature feature. Map F5

www.officinabernardi.com Piazza San Marco, 110. T: 041 5287906 More info: www.where-venice.com w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com  29


SHOPPING

Discovering Venice’s art galleries

VENETIANS

Galleria Contini

PHOTO © COURTESY THE ARTIST AND VICTORIA MIRO, LONDON © CHRIS OFILI

Is Venice really a place to buy objet d’art? Definitely! There are so many large and small 20th century and contemporary art galleries in the city that it’s almost impossible to list them all. Where® has selected a pick, renowned for their quality, tradition, or originality. By Romena Brugnerotto Galleria Contini is a must-visit address for modern and contemporary art. Boasting more than 40 years in the business (it’s the oldest gallery in Venice), it exhibits works by important Italian and international artists including Mitoraj, Botero and Giuseppe Veneziano (San Marco 2288, www.continiarte.com). Other galleries, such as Luce Arte Moderna, are renowned for their display of works associated with the city (San Marco 1922, www.gallerialuce.com).

Victoria Miro Gallery. Chris Ofili, Poolside Magic 8.

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Newcomers? Coinciding with the launch of the Biennale, Venice’s gallery scene has been further enriched by the opening of a new branch of Galerie Alberta Pane. The new, 300-square-meter space, a former carpentry shop turned art gallery, will create an artistic link between Paris and Venice. In keeping with the space’s history as a workshop, the gallery will allow artists to give life to ambitious projects such as large scale installations and will offer artist workshops and talks on contemporary art as part of its programs (Dorsoduro 2403/h, www.galeriealbertapane.com). Among the new openings, the Victoria Miro Gallery has arrived directly from London to take up residence in the former space of Venice’s historic “Il Capricorno” gallery. The London dealer

Galerie Alberta Pane. Christian Fogarolli, Project of Phantom Model of Prof. Chr. Aeby.


SHOPPING

has brought several of the important artists represented by her to the heart of the city (San Marco 1994, www.victoria-miro.com). Located in the so-called Art Mile, in the sestiere of Dorsoduro which is teeming with museums and galleries, another must-visit venue is Galleria L’Occhio which, until 7 June, will host the works of Tobia Ravà, a Venetian artist renowned for researching the mystic currents of Judaism (San Marco 1994, www.gallerialocchio.net). Must-visit addresses for lovers of photography? The Ikona Photo Gallery housed in the picturesque spaces of the Ghetto Novo. Since 1979, thanks to its association with the Ikona International School of Photography, it has brought the best-known names in international photography to Venice (www.ikonavenezia.com). The ghetto is also home to Melori & Rosenberg, a historic gallery renowned for exhibiting the works of hyperrealist painter Luigi Rocca (Cannaregio 2919, www.melori-rosenberg.com).

Fans of photography should also plan a visit to the Bugno Art Gallery that exhibits the works of well-known Italian photographers including Campigotto, Morucchio and Galimberti (San Marco 1996/d, www.bugnoartgallery.com). It goes without saying that Venice is one of the best places to purchase glass objects. Due to its indepth knowledge of artistic glass, Berengo Studio 1989 has invited several of the world’s best-known contemporary artists to experiment with this material and create unique pieces (Fondamenta dei Vetrai 109/a, www.berengostudio1989.com). Other go-to spaces in the city include Caterina Tognon who represents the most important artists of Studio Glass (San Marco 2158, www.caterinatognon.com).

Galleria L'Occhio. Tobia Ravà, 948 vortice di pace.

Collectors of wearable art should head to OhMyBlue. This unique venue sells contemporary artistic jewelry, bags, accessories, everyday items, glass items, ceramics and porcelain, all carefully selected from the best international offerings available on the market (San Polo 2865, www.ohmyblue.com).

Bugno Art Gallery

OhMyBlue. Liisa Hashimoto, Leaf Garden ring.

Berengo Studio 1989. Aldo Mondino, Jongleur.

Luce Arte Moderna. Riccardo Licata, Untitled.

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SHOPPING

Top antiques

VENETIANS

Tessitura Bevilacqua

Venice is infused with so many historical and artistic artefacts that the city’s passion for antiques is literally embedded within its soul. There are so many large and small workshops that it is almost impossible to list them all. Our city reporter Stefano Traine has selected the most important. Alessandro Zoppi A true son of Venice, Alessandro Zoppi, one of the most passionate and authoritative collectors and art merchants in the city, spent his youth travelling extensively abroad. In 1961, he moved to London where he stayed for a few years. The owner, for more than a decade, of the highly prestigious Antichità Cesana, today, Zoppi’s house-museum features a number of pieces from his impressive collections, with a particular emphasis on artistic glass objet d’art dating from the 16th through 20th centuries. PASSION TIP Visiting his house-museum, or even talking to Alessandro Zoppi, is like taking a marvellous journey back in time. By appointment only. T: 335 6657005. email: winglets13@gmail.com. Antichi Splendori Devoted to the ongoing search for objet d’art and antiques, the mission of this highly qualified antique dealer is to keep the interest in authentic masterpieces alive. Its San Lio-based store in Venice offers a careful selection of the city’s artistic treasures, with a particular focus on antique jewelry, Murano glass from the 11th to 20th centuries and paintings of Venetian landscapes. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-7pm. Castello, 5545 (Salizada S. Lio) T: 041 5239265. info@antichisplendori.com. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

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Antichità San Samuele An antiques dealer since the Seventies, Silvana Vianello is renowned for her research and expertise in the field. PASSION TIP San Samuele specializes in religious antiques, with a particular focus on sculptures dating from the 13th through 18th centuries. Open: Mon-Sat 10am-12.30pm/3.30pm7.30pm. San Marco, 3130 (Calle delle Botteghe). T: 041 5204900. Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop). Map E4 Antichità Zanutto Continuing a longstanding family tradition, in the 1970s, Vincenzo Zanutto chose San Marco to open his workshop specializing in antique paintings, with a particular focus on Venetian artists. Also offers evaluations and certified appraisals. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-12.30pm/4.30pm-7.30pm. San Marco, 2013 (Calle delle Veste, near the Teatro La Fenice). T: 041 5235359. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio or San Marco stop). Map E5

Antichità San Samuele

Ca’ Nova Boasting over 40 years in the industry, Ca' Nova which means ‘new house’, has decorated several of Venice’s most elegant homes with its upholstery fabrics. Wallpaper, curtains, tablecloths and hand-woven sheets. Open Mon-Fri 9am12.30pm/3pm-7.30pm; Sat 9am-12.30pm. www. canovatessutitendaggi.com. San Marco, 4264/a (Campo San Luca). T: 041 5203834. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4 Franco Dell’Orto This well-known antique carpet gallery stocks a fabulous range of large Caucasian and Persian rugs, European tapestries and large-scale decorative pieces. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-12.30pm/3.30pm7.30pm; Sat 9.30am-12.30pm. www.francodellorto. com. San Marco, 2052/b (Calle delle Veste, near Teatro La Fenice). T: 041 5224736. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio or San Marco stop). Map E5

Alessandro Zoppi


SHOPPING

Le Zoie Michele Dal Bon’s atelier is infused with personality. PASSION TIP This eclectic shop showcase rare antique watches and jewelry but also specializes in collections that are unlikely to be found elsewhere, including objects inspired by ancient ‘theriaca’, a medical concoction also known as Venice treacle. Open Tues-Sat 9.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. www.lezoie. com. San Polo, 1566 (Calle dei Boteri) T: 041 2758694. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3 Libreria Antiquaria Linea d’Acqua Antique books and priceless prints focusing primarily on preservation and authentic bookbinding methods. PASSION TIP Specializes in 18th century illustrated books, maps and views of Venice and engravings by 18th century Venetian masters. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-12.30pm/3.30pm-7pm; Sat 10.30am12.30pm. www.lineadacqua.it. San Marco 3717/d (Calle della Mandola). T: 041 5224030. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4

Venezia, Le Stampe Turio

Studio Arga The owner of Studio Arga, Gabriella Tallon’s expertise in Oriental and Asian antiques makes this gallery a must-visit reference point. Open by appointment. www.argainc.com. San Marco 3659/a (Calle della Verona corner of Rio Terà dei Assassini). T: 041 2411124. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto or San Samuele stop) and line 2 (San Marco stop). Map E4

Venetia Studium

Tessitura Bevilacqua Artisanal weavers specializing in the production of exquisite, decorative fabrics for furnishings and curtains. PASSION TIP A unique place! Since 1875, the company has practiced the art of weaving on original looms that once belonged to the Venetian School of Silk. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am4pm (Sat-Sun by appointment). www.luigibevilacqua.com. Santa Croce 1320. T: 041 721566. Vaporetto line 1 (Riva de Biasio stop). Map D3 Venetia Studium The Lando family’s mission is to create and sell “modern object that speak an ancient language”. Venetia Studium not only stocks a wide range of Fortuny® lamps but also splendid silk pillows, fabrics, handbags and other accessories inspired by the ambiences loved by Marià Fortuny. Open daily 10am-7pm. www.venetiastudium.com San Marco, 2425. T: 041 5236953. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto or Santa Maria del Giglio stop). Map E5

Venezia, Le Stampe Turio At this small, refined showroom, Camilla Nicolai continues a family tradition established at the end of the 19th century by her great grandfather Osvaldo Böhm. Stocks a wide selection of frames, antiques and handcrafted Venetian objet d’art. PASSION TIP Specializes in antique decorative prints. Open 10.30am-1pm/3.30pm-7pm. www.venezialestampe.it. San Marco, 4606 (Calle Teatro Goldoni). T: 041 5234318. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4

Ca' Nova

Franco Dell'Orto

Antichità Zanutto w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com  33


VENETIANS

ADVERTORIAL

BUGNO ART GALLERY Since it first opened in 1991, in addition to supporting Venetian artistic movements, the gallery has also co-operated with well-known international contemporary artists. It currently collaborates with the Archives of Armando Pizzinato and Mario Deluigi. In 2004, besides art, it also began to focus on photography with renowned Italian photographers. In 2016, it enlarged its spaces and in 2017 it opened a new showroom at the JW Marriott in Venice. Map E4 www.bugnoartgallery.com San Marco, 1996/d. T: 041 5231305

STUDIO DU Dusciana Bravura gave life to Studio DU in 1998, designing and creating a collection of mirrors, tables, lamps and home furnishing rendered in mosaic. Each object is a hand-made original, fashioned with tesserae and millefiori that are themselves the fruit of Venetian and Murano craftsmanship. The patterns generated by the combination of materials brings together a passion for fabrics and Middle Eastern and Asian art with the linear forms of Western design. Map E4 www.duscianabravura.com San Marco 3283 (Calle de le Carrozze). T: 393 2655422.

GALERIE ALBERTA PANE Specialized in contemporary art, it supports experienced and emerging international artists from France, Italy, United Kingdom, Portugal, Bulgaria, Austria, USA and Argentina. It also encourages artists' experimentation in space. The understanding of our time is the main purpose of their reflection which can be focused on nature, on space perception, even more on collective memory or on the social environment. Map C5 www.galeriealbertapane.com/venice Dorsoduro 2403/h (Calle dei Guardiani). T: 344 3426322

ANTICHI SPLENDORI Devoted to the ongoing search for objet d’art and antiques, the mission of this highly qualified antique dealer is to keep the interest in authentic masterpieces alive. Its San Lio-based store in Venice offers a careful selection of the city’s artistic treasures, with a particular focus on antique jewelry, Murano glass from the 11th to 20th centuries and paintings of Venetian landscapes. Map F4 Castello, 5545 (Salizada S. Lio). T: 041 5239265. More info: www.where-venice.com 34  W H E R E V E N I C E I AU G U S T 2017


VENETIANS

ADVERTORIAL

BAC ART STUDIO After experimenting in different artistic works at different locations, the studio recently relocated to Calle delle Botteghe where, in addition to displaying valuable collector’s items in glass, ceramics and porcelain, it also features contemporary paintings and sculptures. Other offshoots include a graphics ‘workshop’, the production of numbered photographs, an art gallery and an ‘editorial’ section. Map E4 www.bacart.com San Marco, 3451 (Calle delle Botteghe). T: 041 2412898

LA SALIZADA GALLERIA Specializing in historic photography, and opened in 2011 by Alberto De Giulio, it hosts works originating from several of Italy’s most important historical archives, including the Florence-based Fratelli Alinari Archives of Photographic Works. A heritage dating from 1852 to the present, interwoven with contemporary photographic exhibitions, works by established and emerging international artists as well as the sale of original period photographs and reproductions. Map E4 www.lasalizada.it San Marco, 3448 (Calle delle Botteghe). T: 041 2410723

EG ARTE With its offer of contemporary art, Eros Gasparini, the owner of EG Arte, aims to preserve the authenticity of art. In addition to showcasing paintings, sculptures and photography, the space also doubles as an artisanal workshop for the creation of jewelry but also glass and ceramic pieces. Works of art and unique pieces referencing the timeless symbols of the Serenissima. Map E4 San Marco, 1894 (Campo San Fantin). T: 345 7070284

GALLERIA D’ARTE L’OCCHIO Located in the historic centre of Venice, just steps from the Peggy Guggenheim Collection, this gallery was established at the beginning of the 1990s to promote the work of young, emerging artists. The gallery recently increased its presence in Venice with the opening of a second exhibition space which hosts solo exhibitions. Map E4 www.gallerialocchio.net Dorsoduro, 181-185. T: 041 5226550 Antichità Zanutto More info: www.where-venice.com w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com  35


STROLLING THROUGH BURANO

VENETIANS

In addition to Murano and Torcello, this island on the Venetian Lagoon should not be missed. Loved (and widely photographed) by tourists, it is famous for its colourful houses, butter biscuits and above all, its handcrafted lace. BY STEFANO TRAINE

With a population of only three thousand inhabitants, the island’s row of houses, whose facades boast all the colours of the rainbow, are truly spectacular and make it one of the most picturesque places on earth! However, the origin of this tradition of painting the houses in bright colours was not only for aesthetic reasons. Legend has it that its fishermen, often confused by frequent banks of fog, devised a chromatic code that would help them identify their own landing piers more easily. Each colour corresponded to a family, to their house and to their address. BURANO LACE. The island is also the capital of handmade lace, a craft kept alive for centuries by the wives of fishermen waiting for their husbands to return from sea. The work is extremely exacting, with each woman specializing in a single stitch. Since there are seven stitches in total, each piece is passed from woman to woman to finish. Groups of women work diligently for days to produce items, whether large or small, of matchless beauty: trims for dresses, accessories, tablecloths, gloves, umbrellas and masks, all made from this delicate, white lace, crafted with a painstaking attention to detail that has lasted for centuries. While on the island, make sure to visit the Museum of Lace-Making to understand 36  W H E R E V E N I C E I AU G U S T 2017

why something so exquisite should not become extinct (Piazza Galuppi, 187). GASTRONOMIC TRADITION. Butter biscuits known as Buranelli (either ring or S-shaped) are famous on the island and you will be offered them wherever you go. However, this is not the only specialty that you’ll find. The island has a long-standing gastronomic tradition linked, above all, to fresh fish.

HOW TO REACH BURANO Vaporetto line number 12 runs from the Venice-Fondamente Nove stop to Burano (1 hour). If you’re not in a hurry, the Venetians recommend taking line 14 from San Zaccaria (Pietà stop). Take a look at the venue where the Film Festival is held, and admire the MOSE flood barrier, the huge hydraulic engineering project designed to protect the lagoon.


ADVERTORIAL

LA PERLA GALLERY The Bon family in Burano offers an assortment of only the finest handmade items including antique lace, high quality made-to-order tablecloths, furnishing accessories, household linens, refined silk for lingerie and clothing, christening gowns and children’s clothing (up to age 10), exclusive scarves in silk and cashmere and Venetian masks.

Via Galuppi, 287-376. T: 041 730009

TRATTORIA DA ROMANO Run by the Barbaro family for four generations, this picturesque eatery has retained all of its timeless appeal. Recognized for more than fifty years as one of the few prestigious art restaurants in Venice, Romano manages the trattoria with the help of his wife, Siora Gigia. Standouts include ancient Burano specialties, and the chef’s signature mixed grill cooked over wood.

www.daromano.it Via Galuppi, 221. T: 041 730030.

MARTINA VIDAL The Vidal family has been making Burano lace for over four generations. Today, Martina Vidal is a luxury home linen atelier where passion, tradition, quality, and craftsmanship are combined to create unique, inimitable items made from only the finest quality fabrics.

www.martinavidal.com Via San Mauro, 309. T: 041 735523. More info: www.where-venice.com w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com  37


ALINARI ARCHIVES, FLORENCE. UNIDENTIFIED AUTHOR, VENICE, LIDO (CIRCA 1915). FRATELLI ALINARI MUSEUM COLLECTIONS (RMFA), FLORENCE.

LIDO DI VENEZIA

Although the Lido is Venice’s beach, it is also much more. An island, a town with its own history and a nature reserve, it is also a jet-setters’ paradise, with luxury hotels and exclusive villas. In September, it becomes the world capital of cinema. BY ELENA BINDA

The Lido (meaning beach in Italian) is a separate island from Venice. Measuring less than 200 metres in depth in certain areas, it is a 12km stretch of sand, strategically positioned between the Lagoon and the open sea, only connected to the city and dry land by ‘vaporetti’ or ferry boats. The clear difference between the Lido and Venice is that the Lido has real streets, which means you get around by car. In mid-November, Rolls Royce’s, Cadillac’s and Bentleys abound at the entrances of grand hotels. However, today, it is considered chicer to access the Lido by boat or explore it on foot or by bicycle. WHAT TO SEE - The nature reserve and wild sand dunes of the Alberoni, recognized and protected by the WWF since 1997, are the perfect place for a quick swim. The area comprises 160 hectares of land, including

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two kilometers of golden sand dunes that extend from Murazzi to the Alberoni dam, and a beautiful pine forest. For a natural beach experience, the Lido also offers several free beaches, like the sandy dunes of San Nicolò, the rocky outcrops of the Murazzi, or the beach known to the Venetians as ‘Bluemoon”. Among other attractions, the area is home to an exclusive golf club set against a stunning backdrop of umbrella pines and poplars. Founder of the famous automotive house and an avid fan of Venice, Henry Ford commissioned the course in 1926, when he discovered to his disappointment that there was nowhere else where he could play golf, a sport widely practiced in America, but not in Italy at that time. WHERE TO GO - Moving to the other end of the island, we find Malamocco, a small, ancient town that offers visitors a mini experience of


VENETIANS

© MARIO TURSI, ARCHIVIO STORICO DEL CINEMA

ICONIC LANDMARKS. Left, dating back to circa 1935, this ‘Animated view of the Grand Hotel Excelsior on the Lido in Venice’ is a part of the prestigious Alinari Archives of Florence. In addition to other priceless originals in albumin, this period reproduction is available at the La Salizada gallery (page 35). Below, one of the most memorable scene from ‘Death in Venice’ (1971), the cinematographic masterpiece directed by Luchino Visconti.

Venice with its canals, ‘campielli’ and ancient buildings. Also dating back to olden times, in a more northerly direction, is the settlement of San Nicolò, featuring a Benedictine complex built in the 11th century. WHAT TO DO - Don’t miss a walk, or even better, a bike ride along the Murazzi, the remains of ancient fortresses which are now used as a race track. Bicycles are provided by several of the island’s hotels. If you happen to be there at the right time, you will be treated to a breathtaking sunset. What’s more, you’ll also get a glimpse of a wilder, more untamed side of Venice, amidst the boats and fishermen searching for clams. One of the island’s rituals, that you should not miss is having a ‘spritz’: the Venetian cocktail or aperitivo par excellence. You won’t have any trouble finding one at any bar on the Gran Viale, the Lido’s promenade. If you’re not pressed for time you can catch a boat from the Gran Viale

to Pellestrina (where you can eat fabulously fresh fish, or a sandwich with fried sardines), or travel to Chioggia, a second, smaller Venice that abounds in fabulous small restaurants. SPECIAL EVENTS - For many years the Lido has been the playground of celebrities and crowned heads. It all begans in the second half of the 19th century when the international jet-set discovered its long sandy beaches. It is therefore not surprising that in August 1932 the terrace of the Hotel Excelsior hosted the first film festival, attended by all the film stars of the time. Then, a special location, the Palazzo del Cinema, was assigned to the most glamorous event of the year. At the end of summer, the festival turns the sleepy Lido into a mini Hollywood, attracting rising stars of the screen, eager to be photographed, plus hordes of fans, film buffs and onlookers. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com  39


LIDO DI VENEZIA | Meet your friends

LA FAVORITA

ARTEMISIA RESTAURANT

T: 041 5261626

c/o Grande Albergo Ausonia Hungaria Gran Viale, 28. T: 041 2420060. www.hungaria.it

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ISOLA DI SAN LAZZARO

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CIRINGUITO

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BAR, PASTRY-SHOP, ICE-CREAM, RISTO&LOUNGE All you want, all day long Via Gran Viale, 43/47 – T: 041 2428133

SEAFRONT SMART KIOSK Lungomare G. Marconi (corner of L. Marcello), in front of 4 Fontane Beach. – T: 347 4338801

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ADVERTORIAL

AI DO MATI

ESSENTIALE

RESTAURANT, PIZZERIA, STEAK-HOUSE

GOURMET RESTAURANT & LOUNGE BAR Breathtaking view of Venice.

Gran Viale S.M. Elisabetta, 49/c T: 041 5261612. www.aidomati.it

c/o Hotel Villa Laguna – Via Sandro Gallo, 6. T: 041 5261316.

O DEGLI ARMENI

Essentiale VIA SANDRO GALLO

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Sleepy Artemisia Buddha

Tempio Votivo Della Pace Di Venezia

Aeroporto Nicelli Venezia Lido VIA DELL'O SPIZ

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Vaporetto lines: 1, 2, 14, 51, 52 Ticket: € 7,50 20 minutes from Piazza S. Marco 35 minutes from Piazzale Roma

LA BATTIGIA

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UNDERCOLORS OF BENETTON

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UNDERWEAR, NIGHTWEAR, BEACH Via Gran Viale, 49 T: 041 5266301

BUDDHA

TYPICAL TRATTORIA – Comida Latina on Friday

SOUL & RESTÒ – Indian and Mediterranean food.

Via Nicosia, 10. T: 041 2760599 (reservations recommended)

Via Gran Viale, 28/B T: 041 770618. www.buddhasoulresto.net

Antichità Zanutto More info: www.where-venice.com w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com  41

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PHOTO © TYSON SADLO

DINING

Taste is golden! Venice is famous throughout the world for its countless treasures... The Oro Restaurant is a recipient of a Michelin star, and a must-visit stopover for lovers of good food. And what food! By Stefania Vida

I

t all began with an important architectural project conceived by world-renowned interior architect Adam D. Tihany, whose meticulous attention to detail is apparent in the interior décor of the Oro Restaurant. With its Murano glass chandeliers, marvelous golden ceiling and outdoor terrace reminiscent of Venice’s characteristic ‘campielli’ (squares), Oro offers guests a quintessentially Venetian setting. The true mastermind behind the restaurant is Executive Chef Davide Bisetto (in the photo), who won’t fail to impress you with sophisticated dishes inspired by the gastronomic traditions of Venice, and his exquisite presentations. This is a unique experience that will delight your eyes and titillate your taste buds! His multi-award winning menu is based on the use of sustainable, seasonal 42  W H E R E V E N I C E I AU G U S T 2017

produce and the finest local ingredients. With starters like Red prawn and spider crab au natural, pink grapefruit aspic, citrus, Sant'Erasmus cucumber sorbet, and tomato water Bloody Mary (all served together), as well as main courses, including sea bass braised in Prosecco, served in a traditional stone dish, Chef Bisetto’s cuisine captivates Venetians and tourists alike, for an unparalleled gourmet experience. From this year, guests can enjoy the vegetable garden's flavours as they sit next to the vegetables planted in raised beds in the gardens of Belmond Hotel Cipriani. These beds produce vegetables for Bisetto’s new spring menu, and it's here that guests can chat to the chef as he gathers garden-fresh radishes or salad leaves.

>>Oro Restaurant c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani Giudecca, 10 - T: 041 240801 www.belmond.com

PHOTO © TYSON SADLO


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM

TASTING EXPERIENCE Enoteca Al Volto

Excellent wine accompanied by traditional ‘cicchetti’ and Venetian fish specialties, Enoteca Al Volto invites diners into its warm, welcoming atmosphere. €. Open daily 11.30am-3pm and 6pm-10pm. San Marco, 4081 (Calle Cavalli). T: 041 5228945. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Zaccari stop). Map E4

L’Aciugheta

Its fame and fortune stems from a soft, 7 cm long “paninello” (literally, “tiny sandwich”), stuffed with butter and two “aciughete” (skinless anchovies in oil). Other must-trys include its meatballs, croutons, stuffed chili peppers and freshly baked ‘pizzette’ topped with anchovies. €. Castello, 4357 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5224292. Vaporetto line 1, or 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Osteria alla Rivetta

One of Venice best-known, most traditional “cicheteria” (but also a trattoria for lunch and dinner), it is a go-to address for wine tastings. Open daily 11am-10.30pm. €. Castello, 4625. T: 041 5287302. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4

TRADITIONAL ITALIAN CUISINE

liver, ‘granseola’, polenta with shrimp, a mixed fish fry with artichokes and seafood risotto. The restaurant offers a gluten free menu especially designed for coeliacs. Closed on Thursday. €€€. www.algiardinetto.it. Castello, 4928 (Salizada Zorzi). T: 041 5285332. Vaporetto line 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4

Sissi. A favourite haunt of artists, its charm and Venetian flavour have remained unaltered since it first opened in 1894. Standouts include its raw fish dishes and stewed cod fish with polenta. €€€. www. anticacarbonera.it. San Marco (Calle Bembo). T: 041 5225479. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4

Al Mercà

A typical trattoria, in business for over a century, it has a friendly, convivial atmosphere. This is a go-to address for foodies and connoisseurs of fine dining. Its excellent menu, enhanced by the freshest, top quality ingredients is accompanied by an astute selection of wines. Closed on Sundays and Mondays. €€€. www.antichecarampane.com. San Polo, 1911. T: 041 5240165. Vaporetto line 1 (RialtoMercato stop). Map E3

Highly sought-after, typical Venetian cuisine. Boasting an informal atmosphere, it is the perfect spot to relax with a soothing cocktail after a long day of sightseeing. €€€. Lido - Via E. Dandolo, 17. T: 041 2431663. Vaporetto 1, 2, 5.1, 5.2 (Lido stop). Map E3

Alla Madonna

Established in 1954 and set in one of Venice’s most picturesque corners, the Rado family has run Alla Madonna since its inception. Its welcoming ambience, characterized by an ancient vineyard, provides the perfect backdrop for the typical regional cuisine served here. €€€. www. ristoranteallamadonna.com. San Polo, 594 (Calle della Madonna). T: 041 5223824. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E4

Antica Carbonera

Homemade pasta, fresh fish and unusual decor: its interiors resemble those of the Miramar yacht that belonged to Franz Joseph II and Princess

Antiche Carampane

Antico Martini

Located next to the La Fenice theatre, with its elegant dining rooms, welcoming atmosphere and attentive staff, the Antico Martini serves some of the best seafood in town. €€€. www.anticomartini. com. Campo Teatro Fenice 2007. T: 041 5224121. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).Map E5

Antico Pignolo

The hand of owner Eligio Paties, is apparent in its beautifully laid tables and impeccable service. The traditional Venetian menu is accompanied by a well-

A Beccafico Arte

It offers several dining spaces and a small inner courtyard. Its typical Venetian ambience, is low-key, contemporary and elegant, blending to perfection with its Sicilian-style cuisine. €€€. Closed on Tuesdays. www.abeccaficoarte.com. Cannaregio, 2289/C. T: 041 2759220. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E5

A la Vecia Cavana

Set within the picturesque environment of an old restructured cavàna (a typical sloped building used to house boats), this restaurant serves delicious traditional Venetian and Italian cuisine. €€€. www. marsillifamiglia.it. Cannaregio, 4624 (Rio Terà SS. Apostoli). T: 041 5287106. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map F3

Acqua Pazza

Set against the magical backdrop of Campo Sant’Angelo, it offers a great ‘al fresco’ dining experience under the stars. This small corner of Amalfi in Venice serves an array of tantalizing dishes. €€€. www.veniceacquapazza.com. San Marco, 3808. T: 041 2770688. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).Map E4

Al Colombo

A meeting point since 1986 for an international clientele, its menu maintains all the hallmark features of traditional Venetian cuisine. In summer, guests can dine outside under the romantic light of Venice’s street lamps. €€€. www.alcolombo.com. San Marco, 4619. T: 041 5222627. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3

Al Giardinetto da Severino

Set against the magnificent backdrop of the 15th century Palazzo Zorzi, the restaurant is listed as an ‘historical establishment of Venice’ and its dining room still features a vaulted ceiling and a frescoed firedplace. Its menu offers the best of traditional Venetian cuisine: baccalà, Venetian-style

Sushi Mirai, Japan in Venice Located in the beating heart of Cannaregio, Sushi Mirai is a reference point for lovers of Japanese cuisine, infused with Brazilian influences and contemporary touches. High-quality, locally sourced ingredients are enhanced by innovative pairings to create mouthwatering dishes that can be accompanied by a wide assortment of exotic cocktails or a prestigious selection of Japanese teas. Available in both an à la carte or tasting version, its menu also features a number of vegetarian options. In addition to traditional uramaki and temaki, the restaurant also offers a selection of soups and delicate tempuras. At Sushi Mirai, the refined dishes prepared by expert Sushiman Dhirendra are served in the venue’s sleek dining spaces featuring wood beamed ceilings, exquisite Japanese decorative elements and spectacular views over the Grand Canal. Sushi Mirai. Cannaregio, 146. T: 041 2206517. www.miraivenice.com

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DINING

Top hotel restaurants Tradition, innovation and creativity: Where® highlights some culinary destinations to whet your appetite in several top hotels in Venice. By Stefania Vida

Terrazza Danieli Acquerello c/o San Clemente Palace Kempinski Venice. Isola di San Clemente, 1. T: 041 4750111. www.kempinski.com The gourmet cuisine of Acquerello restaurant enhances the flavours of Italian and Venetian tradition with creative and surprising combinations of Executive Chef Vincenzo Di Tuoro. PASSION TIP Its view is as breathtaking as its food: situated next to the XII-century church of San Clemente, the restaurant, boasting a large terrace, is located next to one of the island’s private landing stages. Open for dinner: 6.30 pm10.30 pm. Hotel’s complimentary boat from piazza San Marco. Off Map

Aromi c/o Hilton Molino Stucky. Giudecca, 810. T: 041 2723311. www.molinostuckyhilton.it Here you can taste authentic Mediterranean cuisine, offering a choice of pasta, meat and seafood dishes, created using only the freshest ingredients based on traditional recipes. Recognized by well-known international gastronomic association “Chaine des Rotisseurs”, Aromi is the ideal spot to celebrate a special occasion. Open on a seasonal basis, the Aromi restaurant offers guests a summer terrace with a fabulous view over Venice and the Giudecca Canal. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Palanca stop). Map C6

Aman Venice Restaurant c/o Hotel Aman Venice. Palazzo Papadopoli. San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo). T: 041 2707333. www.aman.com The exclusive restaurant offers a delightfully unique menu, thanks to several specialties created by starred Milanese chef Davide Oldani, who infuses his culinary offerings with all the vibrancy of his ‘pop cuisine’. PASSION TIP Standouts, for those who haven’t yet tasted them, include his timeless ‘cipolla caramellata’ (‘caramelized onions’) and ‘Zafferano e riso’ (Saffron and rice’). Vaporetto line 1 (San Silvestro stop). Map E4

Canova c/o Baglioni Hotel Luna. San Marco, 1243. T: 041 5289840. www.baglionihotels.com Winner of the Fogher d’Oro and Gambero Rosso awards, the Canova boasts an intimate, elegant atmosphere. Chef Daniele Zennaro offers menus and tastings featuring the best of traditional Venetian cuisine. All dishes are made using only the freshest, high-quality ingredients, rounded off by a wine list offering a wide selection of national and international labels. Vaporetto line 1 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map F5

Antinoo’s c/o Centurion Palace Venezia. Dorsoduro, 173. T: 041 34281. www.sinahotels.com Fronting the Grand Canal, this is the ideal place for a romantic dinner, boasting a decidedly designer-style décor and a soft, evocative colour scheme. In addition to the à la carte menu you can also choose from a selection of typical gourmet Venetian dishes, the perfect way to soak up the flavours and atmospheres of the lagoon city. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map E5

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Club del Doge c/o The Gritti Palace. Campo Santa Maria del Giglio. T: 041 794611. www.clubdeldoge.com The restaurant welcomes guests for a romantic dinner or lunch overlooking the Grand Canal, where a welcoming ambience and authentic upscale cuisine make each culinary experience a truly special one. From April to October (weather permitting), guests can dine on its stunning panoramic terrace. Dining daytime (informal) 12pm-6pm. Dinner daily (formal) 7pm- 10pm. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio stop). Map E5

De Pisis c/o Hotel Bauer Palazzo. San Marco, 1413/d. T: 041 5207022. www.bauervenezia.com For a romantic canal side dinner, set against the backdrop of the historic Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute. Those in search of a more intimate experience can opt to dine in its elegant dining room, furnished with classic period pieces, reminiscent of the ancient pomp and splendour of the Serenissima. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 Do Leoni c/o Hotel Londra Palace. Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni). T: 041 5200533. www.londrapalace.com The Do Leoni restaurant, one of the temples of Venetian cuisine, pays homage to the symbols of Britain and of Venice. Chef Loris Indri combines the traditions of classic Venetian fare with more creative dishes, to titillate the palates of even the most discerning diners. The chef’s culinary art is further enhanced by its two atmospheric dining spaces: an indoor dining room whose decor includes artistic crystal and original paintings and its summer Veranda on the Riva degli Schiavoni. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4 Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco. T: 041 8521300 www.jwvenice.com Aptly named ‘Dopolavoro’, which means after work. The renowned name of Giancarlo Perbellini is behind this new restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private island - the Isola delle Rose, right out in the Venetian lagoon. After a day of business meetings or exploring Venice, enjoy delicious gourmet recipes with an individual flavour and skilful light touch - the true mark of a great chef. Off Map Glam c/o Palazzo Venart Santa Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron). T: 041 5233784. www.palazzovenart.com Headed by twice-Michelin starred chef Enrico Bartolini and located in a historic palazzo on the Grand Canal it offers an interpretation of contemporary Italian cuisine. Bartolini focuses on his experience and research-based use of locally-sourced Venetian ingredients and re-imagined with an innovative twist. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Stae stop). Map E3


DINING

Grand Canal c/o Hotel Monaco & Grand Canal San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. www.hotelmonaco.it A meeting place for gurus of the world of economy and finance, journalists and artists, actors and writers, it looks out directly over the Grand Canal. Both lively and intimate, its terrace combines the pleasures of the palate with an evocative view over the lagoon. Here you can enjoy the typical dishes of Venetian tradition, from the on the delicacies of the sea to the vegetables, expressed with maximum taste and harmony. Map F5 Il Giardino Segreto c/o Boscolo Venezia. Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto, 3500 (Calle Larga Piave). T: 041 2208110. www.venezia.boscolohotels.com Venice meeting point for lovers of fine cuisine. In an elegant and intimate atmosphere, you can enjoy international specialties and delicacies of the Italian cuisine, created by highly skilled chefs and accompanied by a wide selection of wines and champagnes. In the springtime and summer the blooming garden offers you a unique view for your lunch or for your very romantic dinner. Vaporetto line 4.2 or 5.2 (Orto stop). Map E1

L’Alcova c/o Ca’ Sagredo Hotel. Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99. T: 041 2413111. www.casagredohotel.com Boasting a magnificent panoramic terrace over the Grand Canal, L’Alcova is ‘the’ temple of traditional Venetian cuisine for real connoisseurs. PASSION TIP Its dining room faces directly over the Canal, in front of the historic Rialto Market, from which the restaurant sources the ingredients for its menus, accompanied by an astute selection of wines from various regions of Italy. Open: lunch 12pm2.30pm, dinner 7pm-10pm. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E3 La Caravella c/o Hotel Saturnia Calle Larga XXII Marzo, 2399. T: 041 5208901. www.restaurantlacaravella.com Opened in 1963, it completes the services offered by the Hotel Saturnia with a touch of culinary excellence thanks to its fabulous Venetian cuisine updated with a contemporary, gourmet twist. Its evocative, romantic ambience conjures up the colours and furnishings of an ancient Venetian vessel. In summer, guests can dine ‘al fresco’ in its picturesque, internal Venetian courtyard. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map E5

La Cusina c/o The Westin Europa & Regina San Marco 2159. T: 041 2400001. www.lacusina.it For a regenerating lunch break or for a romantic dinner, La Cusina is the ideal place to enjoy a combination of taste and relaxation. Choose a table overlooking the Grand Canal to enjoy a panoramic view of the city’s historic architecture, while savouring the restaurant’s seasonal dishes which enhance the rich local flavours of Venice and the islands of the lagoon. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5 Le Maschere c/o Starhotels Splendid Venice. San Marco Mercerie, 760. T: 041 5200755. www.starhotels.com Loved and patronized by Venetian locals, it is set against the backdrop of a luminous ‘Campiello’, a typical Venetian courtyard. Here you can sample authentic Venetian cuisine, featuring both meat and fish-based dishes. A truly gourmet experience, guaranteed by its partnership with Eataly, makes Le Maschere one of the most unique and original restaurants in Venice. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4 Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801. www.belmond.com Experience Venice’s top taste sensation at this enchanting Michelin-starred restaurant. Oro reflects the romantic spirit of Venice: take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant takes its name, and try the specialties inspired by Italian tradition. Vaporetto line 4.1 (Zitelle stop). Map F6

Pisanino

Do Leoni

Pisanino c/o Palazzetto Pisani San Marco, 2814. T: 041 5232550. www.palazzettopisani.com Located in the noble floor of Palazzetto Pisani, facing the Grand Canal, here you can savor refined Italian and gourmet food in a typically Venetian ambient. Particular events are often organized in this space. Moreover, try out the Balcony experience, a romantic and unique experience just for two persons on a private balcony facing the Grand Canal, simply enjoy an aperitivo in Venetian style, an exclusive dinner or even a continental breakfast. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Accademia stop). Map E5 Terrazza Danieli c/o Hotel Danieli Riva degli Schiavoni, 4196. T: 041 5226480. www.terrazzadanieli.com A trip to discover traditional flavours. Executive Chef Dario Parascandolo will treat you to an exclusive gourmet experience, with a menu featuring locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. Don’t miss the breathtaking view over the lagoon. Vaporetto line 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

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DINING

Top coffee and pastry shops Whether you’re in search of a cup of coffee, a snack or an aperitivo, Venice offers an incredible variety of bars and pastry shops, where you can stop after a long day’s sightseeing. Where® offers you a pick of the best places to take a relaxing break, from the most modern venues to more historic locations boasting a retro atmosphere for a real trip back in time By Stefania Vida www.lavena.it. Piazza San Marco, 133/134. T: 041 5224070. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).

Caffè Florian

Caffè Florian - One of Venice’s most famous cafés with its glittering neo-Baroque décor and attractive 19th century wall panels, Caffè Florian is located in the heart of St. Mark’s Square. The oldest café in Italy, Florian is steeped in history. Opened on 29 December 1720 by Floriano Francesconi, under the name of ‘Alla Venezia Trionfante’, it was simply re-christened Florian by its regulars, who included celebrities such as Casanova, Goldoni, Canaletto and Guardi. www.caffeflorian.com. Piazza San Marco, 57. T: 041 5205641. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Caffè Lavena - Since 1750, Caffè Lavena, situated in a corner at the foot of the Clock Tower in front of the Basilica, has been one of the most renowned coffee shops in Venice. Known by the Venetians of those days as the ‘Caffè dei Foresti’ (The Foreigners’ cafè), it was mainly frequented by an international clientele.

stocked cellar boasting more than 900 labels from all over the world. €€€. www.anticopignolo.com. San Marco, 451 (Calle degli Specchieri). T: 041 5228123. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Conca d’Oro

Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, the Conca d’Oro was established by Sicilian brothers Giuseppe and Giovanni Costa, the founders of the first pizzeria in Northern Italy. Since that time, this Venetian institution has been turning out some of the best pizza in town. €€€. www. concadorovenice.com. San Marco, 4338 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5229293. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Da Fiore

A renowned Venetian restaurant that offers topnotch cuisine in a sophisticated, elegant setting. Thirty-five years ago, Mara and Maurizio Martin 46  W H E R E V E N I C E I AU G U S T 2017

Dal Mas Located just a few minutes from the railway station, this pastry shop offers a triumph of traditional sweet treats for breakfast (in addition to croissants, try their ‘zaleti’, ‘pan dei Dogi’ and ‘sbreghettine’). Those with a sweet tooth will be delighted to know that Dal Mas is also a chocolate shop where you can find single servings of mousse, mini Sacher torte, ‘cannoli’ and brightlycoloured macarons. www.cioccolateriadalmas. com. Cannaregio, 149/a (Rio Terà Lista de Spagna), a few metres from the St. Lucia Station. T: 041 715101. Gran Caffè Quadri - Nestling in St. Mark’s Square, with its ornate stucco mouldings, 18th-century murals, huge mirrors and polished wooden furniture, Quadri is every inch the historical café. People, including habitués like Stendhal, Wagner, Proust and Woody Allen, have been drinking at this historic venue since 1638. www.alajmo.it. Piazza San Marco, 121. T: 041 5222105. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Harry’s Bar - Founded in the 1930s, this legendary bar is renowned for its Bellini cocktails and for being the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of almost every famous name to visit Venice. Today, it is still a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice, a perfect opportunity to step back in time and savour its slightly retro and incredibly fascinating atmosphere. An ideal venue at any time of day, either for lunch or dinner, but also for a truly trademark aperitivo! www.harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco,

transformed an old osteria into one of the city’s most famous restaurants. Impeccable service and superlative Venetian dishes composed of carefully selected seasonal ingredients have made Da Fiore a must-visit destination. Closed on Mondays. €€€. www.dafiore.net. San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3

Gran Canal

Here you can taste the typical specialties of Venetian tradition, featuring the purest expression of taste and harmony. The restaurant’s main focus is on seafood and vegetables. Don’t miss a dinner on its evocative terrace: the restaurant faces directly onto the Grand Canal offering diners an excellent opportunity to combine the pleasures of the palate with a stunning view over Venice’s lagoon. Open: lunch 12.30pm-2.30pm, dinner 7.30pm-11.30pm €€€. www. hotelmonaco.it. c/o Hotel Monaco&Gran Canal.

1323 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Vallaresso stop). Harry’s Dolci - Harry's Dolci, a bar and restaurant, offers a peaceful view of the Canal with outdoor tables facing the Giudecca Canal. The people at the famed Harry's Dolci have established their latest enclave on this rarely visited island, far from the madding crowds of Piazza San Marco. From the quayside windows of this chic place, you can watch seagoing vessels, from yachts to lagoon barges. cipriani.com. Fondamenta S. Biagio, 773 (Giudecca). T: 041 5224844. Vaporetto linea 4.1 (Palanca stop). Pasticceria Italo Didovich - Should you find yourself in the vicinity of Campo Santa Marina (just a little off the beaten tourist track), make a beeline for this excellent pastry shop, which has stood here for the past 40 years. In addition to ‘frolle’ and rice and almond pastries, it also offers several tantalizing delicacies Castello. Campo Santa Marina. T: 041 5230017. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Pasticceria Rosa Salva - This institution has three separate shops in Venice. The first is in San MarcoCalle Fiubera: its historic headquarters, permeated by the aromas of its nearby pastry kitchen. The next is in San Marco-Mercerie: aperitivi and quick snacks that can be enjoyed in between browsing the shops lining le Mercerie, the shopping street that connects the Rialto to St. Mark’s Square. The last is in Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo. www.rosasalva.it. San Marco (Calle Fiubera), T: 041 5210544. San Marco (Mercerie), T: 041 5227934. Castello (Campo San Giovanni e Paolo), T: 041 5227949. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Rizzardini - Since 1742, the traditional sweet treats sold at this pastry shop have tempted the palates of Venetian locals and visitors alike, thanks to the high quality of its products, its atmosphere and eye-catching window displays. Must-try’s include its biscuits and, at Carnival, its utterly delectable ‘fritole’ , small fried doughnuts. San Polo, 1415. T: 041 5223835. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato or San Silvestro stop).

San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Map F5

Harry’s Bar

Founded in the 1930s, this legendary bar is renowned for its Bellini cocktails (originally invented here) and for being the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of almost every famous name to visit Venice. Today, It is still a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice, a perfect opportunity to step back in time and savour its slightly retro and incredibly fascinating atmosphere. www.harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco, 1323 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto 1 (Rialto stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

Il Nuovo Galeon

Located on via Garibaldi, near the Giardini della Biennale and just behind the Arsenal, this restaurant is mainly frequented by Venetians. A typical, familyrun restaurant with an outdoor terrace (summer), its attractive interior is characterized by typical nautical


DINING

Kosher in Venice If you are already familiar with Jewish dietary laws, or want to try a new ‘kosher’ gastronomic experience, here are some great addresses that will not disappoint! By Stefania Vida

décor, including the hull of a ‘bragozzo’, a typical fishing boat built by Crea, the famous Venetian rowing champion. €€€. www.ilnuovogaleon.com. Castello, 1308, T: 041 5204656. Vaporetto 5.1 or 5.2 (Giardini stop). Map H5

La Piscina

Take a seat at its welcoming indoor dining room, or on the magnificent panoramic terrace overlooking the Giudecca Canal. At La Piscina you can savour traditional Venetian and Mediterranean dishes paired with wines selected from amongst the best Italian labels. Vegetarian meals are also served. €€€. www.lacalcina.com. c/o Hotel La Calcina. Dorsoduro, 780 (Zattere). T: 041 5206466. Vaporetto line 2 or 5.1 (Zattere stop). Map E6

La Porta d’Acqua

Set just steps from the Rialto Bridge, the restaurant is housed in a 15th century building and decorated with original frescoes dating back to 1700. Its cuisine conjures up the aroma of authentic Neapolitan cuisine, thanks to ingredients sourced exclusively from Campani. €€€. www.laportadacqua.it. San Polo, 1022/b (Rio Terà San Silvestro). T: 041 2412124. Vaporetto 1 (San Silvestro stop). Map E4

Lineadombra

KOSHER RESTAURANT GHIMEL GARDEN The restaurant offers kosher specialties and typical fish-based dishes. Halav. Lemehadrin. The menu is accompanied by a great selection of strictly kosher wines. This restaurant is part of the new "L'Chaim!" Tour. venicebeyondtheghetto.com Open daily from 9.30am to 11pm. Serves Shabbat dinners on Friday evenings and at lunch on Saturdays strictly subject to reservation. ghimelgarden.com. Cannaregio, 2873/c (Campo del Ghetto Nuovo). T: 041 8226131.

Perched on the last bridge of the most beautiful promenade in Venice, le Zattere, this is the perfect spot for a romantic dinner where you can enjoy all the typical flavours of the Venetian lagoon. €€€. www.ristorantelineadombra.com. Dorsoduro, 19. T: 041 2411881. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Zattere stop) or 1 (Salute stop). Map E5

Locanda Cipriani

For those who want to be close to Venice, yet feel worlds away, the Locanda Cipriani is a superb, romantic hideaway. Featuring a simple yet evocative atmosphere, it is popular among knowledgeable gourmets as a fantastic

restaurant. A farmhouse from the exterior, it has been renovated with great charm, exuding an understated elegance with beautiful country antiques and fresh flowers. €€€. www. locandacipriani.com. Piazza Santa Fosca 29 (Torcello island). T: 041 730150. Vaporetto line 12 from Fondamente Nove direction Burano, then take the 9 line). Off Map

Taverna al Remer

Located near to the Rialto Bridge, this romantic ‘taverna’ is distinguished by its open-brick decor, which lends it an intimate, informal touch. Although the menu features simple, traditional dishes, it often surprises diners with unusual pairings. Closed on Wednesdays. €€€. www. alremer.it. Cannaregio, 5701. T. 041 5228789. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop).

Map F3

Trattoria Do Forni

The owner Eligio Paties has managed to make this restaurant a sought-after destination, distinguished by its wide assortment of Venetian fare, thanks to the quality of the dishes and a genuine sense of typically Venetian hospitality. The dining spaces will remind you of the carriages of the legendary “Orient Express” and pay tribute to the history of Venice. €€€. www.doforni.it. San Marco, 468 (Calle dei Specchieri). T: 041 5232148. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4

Wildner

Opened by the Fullin family in 1960, it is patronized by locals and tourists alike. Its tranquil, relaxed atmosphere is further enhanced by a spectacular view over the Basin of St. Mark’s. Its menu is mainly fish-based and serves classic Venetian specialties including ‘Baccalà Mantecato’ and ‘Sarde in Saor’. Closed on Tuesdays. €€€. c/o Pensione Wildner. Castello, 4161. T: 041 5227463. Vaporetto line 4.1 or 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4

KOSHER HOUSE GIARDINO DEI MELOGRANI Located just a 10-minute walk from the Santa Lucia Railway Station, this is the only kosher residence in Venice. Nestling in the heart of Venice’s Ghetto, it is equipped with all the necessary accoutrements for the strict observance of Kasheruth and Halacha. www.pardesrimonim.net. Cannaregio, 2873. T: 041 8226131. CAFFETTERIA DEL MUSEO EBRAICO DI VENEZIA Indulge in a flavoursome break at the cafè of Venice’s famous Jewish Museum. Situated in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo, the venue is set between two of Venice’s oldest synagogues. Halav. Cannaregio, 2902 (Campo del Ghetto Nuovo). T: 340 1046858.

ACQUERELLO RESTAURANT The haute cuisine of this signature restaurant plays on the creative combinations of Italian specialties and traditional Venetian dishes. www.kempinski.com/it/venice

w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com  47


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SWEET TREATS… BUT NOT TOO MANY ONI Venetian biscuits come in all shapes and sizes and are made with a variety of different flours. The most common Arsenale Storico Navale di Venezia include dry baicoli, zaeti,Museo cookies made from cornflour, with raisins and lemon R PE GA peel, bussolai (prepared by the wives of IUSEP VIA G fishermen to sustain their husbands while at sea), pinsa, a simple biscuit made from stale bread, raisins, cocoa powder and RI VA DE I S candied fruit, and fugassa venessiana, ET TE M leavened dough sprinkled with grains of AR TI RI sugar: Venice’s traditional sweet treats have the irresistible aroma of simple, homemade biscuits prepared with only the most basic ingredients. A perfect end to a delicious meal, they can also be enjoyed as a midmorning snack. They can be accompanied by either a strong cup of coffee, or a rich, mouth watering zabaione.

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ADVERTORIAL

TRATTORIA DA REMIGIO Owned by Fabio Bianchi, Da Remigio is located in sestiere Castello, just behind St. Mark’s square. This historical venue is a favourite with Venetian foodies, but is also mentioned in international guides. It offers diners a classical menu of seasonal seafood dishes accompanied by a well-stocked wine list. The venue’s friendly, attentive service makes for an even more enjoyable dining experience.

Castello, 3416 (Salizada dei Greci). T: 041 52300089

LA TERRAZZA Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, Restaurant La Terrazza is set against an evocative backdrop with a view over the picturesque Bacino Orseolo gondola station (‘stazio’). Its culinary offer includes traditional Venetian and Italian cuisine. In the evening, La Terrazza offers its guests the unforgettable atmosphere of a traditional restaurant in Venice for a candle-lit dinner, in the romantic heart of the city. www.laterrazzavenezia.com c/o Hotel Bonvecchiati. San Marco 4488 (Calle Goldoni). T: 041 5285017

TRATTORIA DO FORNI Its owner Eligio Paties considers cooking “a culture, rather than a vocation”. He has managed to make his restaurant a sought-after destination, distinguished by its wide assortment of Venetian fare, thanks to the quality of the dishes and a genuine sense of typically Venetian hospitality. The dining spaces will remind you of the carriages of the legendary “Orient Express” and pay tribute to the history of Venice. www.doforni.it San Marco, 468 (Calle dei Specchieri). T: 041 5232148.

ANTICO PIGNOLO The “Antico Pignolo” Restaurant opened in 1930. Its site, however, actually dates back to 1200 when it was used as a blacksmith’s forge which looked after the Doge’s horses. Boasting an elegant ambience and impeccable service, this ‘iconic Venetian tavern’ is owned and run by Eligio Paties with particular attention to typical Venetian and international cuisine. Highlights include tantalizing meat and fish specialties and www.xxxxxx.org a well-stocked wine cellar. Viale xxxxx, 6 T:www.anticopignolo.com. 02 xxxxx San Marco, 451 More www.wheremilan.com (Calleinfo: dei Specchieri). T: 041 5228123. More info: www.where-venice.com w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com  49


SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

A hidden treasure Iconic, beautiful and... imperfect. Without a doubt, this is the characteristic that makes Scala Contarini del Bovolo a rare gem of Venetian architecture. By Stefania Vida

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idden in a maze of ‘calli’ (squares) and canals, just steps from Campo Manin, along one of the main tourist routes in Venice (from the Santa Lucia railway to the Gallerie dell'Accademia), visitors will find an architectural gem featuring a combination of Renaissance, Gothic and Byzantine elements. The Scala Contarini del Bovolo is a historic building of unmatched beauty that also owes some of its charm to the intrigue surrounding its namesake staircase. According to historic records, the Scala Contarini del Bovolo was commissioned by Pietro Contarini towards the end of 1400;

however, there is still some uncertainty about the true identity of its creator. The most credible version attributes it to Giovanni Candi, referred to in historical records as a ‘marangon’, meaning a carpenter and woodworker as opposed to an architect. This would explain the architectural inconsistencies of the building, which are quite noticeable when climbing the staircase. Mysteries aside, those who are not afraid of heights can climb to the top of this 26m 'bovolo' (snail-shell) stairwell, enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace, to admire a rare view of the city. Amidst its rooftops you will notice one of Venice’s trademark architectural

The architectural beauty of the amazing, external stairwell is well worth a visit

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features: the ‘altane’. An altana is a covered wooden roof terrace that Venetians use to take shelter from the sun. The loggia on the second floor of the Scala del Bovolo leads to the Sala of Palazzo Contarini, which hosts a display of paintings, sculptures and applied objet d’art. The collection is modest but it offers the visitor a insightful glimpse into Venetian lifestyles from the 16th through 18th centuries. Open daily (10am-1.30pm, 2pm-6pm). Closed on: 15 August, 1 November, 25 and 26 December and 1 January. >> Scala Contarini del Bovolo San Marco, 4299 (Corte Contarini del Bovolo) www.scalacontarinidelbovolo.com


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM

ATTRACTIONS & MONUMENTS Basilica del Redentore

and boat cruises visit www.canalgrande.it, or ask your concierge.

Chiesa della Madonna dell’Orto

Based on a project by the famous architect Andrea Palladio, the Basilica was built in 1577 on the island of Giudecca. It contains works by Tintoretto, Veronese and other important Venetian artists. It was built to celebrate the deliverance from the Black Death, which killed one third of the population. To commemorate the end of the plague, a solemn festival is still held at the church on the third Sunday of July. www.chorusvenezia.org. Campo Redentore (Giudecca). T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 41 and 2 (Redentore stop). Map E6

This is one of the largest churches in Venice, and, according to popular belief, is named after a statue of the Virgin Mary which supposedly had miraculous powers. It contains a significant number of artworks, mostly by Tintoretto and Bellini, but also by Titian and Palma the Younger. The complex also houses the smaller church of San Marziale, dating back to before the year 1000. This church can only be visited by booking. Open Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 12pm-5pm. www. madonnadellorto.org. Cannaregio, 3512. T: 041 719933. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1, 5.2, A (Orto stop). Map E2

Basilica di San Marco

Chiesa and Scuola Grande di San Rocco

This is the most important Catholic church in the city, and one of the most important monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. The famous winged lion, a symbol of the city and of the ancient ‘Venetian Republic’ is depicted on its pediment. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. You might have to queue for a time to get inside, but your wait will be well worthwhile. Although admission is free, you will have to pay to see several specific sights. In order not to miss your visit, be sure to inform yourself about the opening hours, as they are often subject to change. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-4pm; Sun (and Public Holidays) 2pm-4pm. www.basilicasanmarco.it. San Marco, 328. T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures, including an impressive number of works by Tintoretto as well those by Tiepolo and Giorgione. Opening hours subject

to change www.scuolagrandesanrocco.org. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Ghetto di Venezia

Although documentation chronicles the presence of a Jewish community in Venice from before the year 1000, it was only during the 6th century, due to political unrest in Europe and a significant increase in non-Christian immigrants that, for the first time, the Venetian Senate, issued a decree stating that the Jewish population should move to a specific part of the city, where they could be better ‘controlled’. Thus Jews were forced to move to this, then, remote northwestern corner of Venice, to an abandoned site of a 14thcentury foundry (‘ghetto’ is old Venetian dialect for "foundry," a word that would soon be used throughout Europe and the world to depict an area where isolated minority groups lived. The Venetian Ghetto nevertheless became a thriving, vibrant district. In 1797, when Napoleon rolled into town, the ghetto was disbanded as an institution, and Jews were free to move elsewhere. Today it is still the center of Venice's ever-diminishing community of Jewish families. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1 (Ponte Guglie stop). Map D2

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Campanile di San Marco (Bell Tower)

This 98.6 metre bell tower is affectionately known to the Venetians as ‘el paron de casa’ (the master of the house) because it dominates the city, observing everything that lies below it. Resting lightly on the exquisite Loggetta del Sansovino, it has a particularly recognizable shape and a rich history. The original medieval bell tower was modified several times, and rebuilt entirely when it unexpectedly collapsed in 1902. It is worth going up to the tower, to enjoy a breathtaking view over the city. Although admission is not free, it is often included in joint tickets. Opening times are subject to change. T: 041 5225205. Vaporetto lines 1,2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

Canal Grande (Grand Canal)

Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the main waterway of Venice and much more. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels, and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. For centuries, the Canal has witnessed lavish parties and workshop events, religious processions, capital executions, historical regattas and epidemics. Those visiting Venice should dedicate a few hours to a cruise on the Canal, not only for the pleasure of this experience, but because it offers several of the best panoramic views of Venetian palaces. It is is almost impossible to list all of them, but for more information you can visit the www. canalgrandevenezia.it website. For excursions

The 74th International Film Festival, the only thing hotter than a Lido beach in August, kicks off on 30 August, attracting stars of the cinema and hordes of fans, film buffs and onlookers. This year’s competition will see a line-up of 20 world premiere feature films contending either for a Golden or Silver Lion award. These coveted statues, replicating the symbol of Venice - the winged lion - are awarded respectively by an international jury for the best film and the best director. Among the innovations announced, this year’s festival will see an unusual role reversal. For the first time in Venice, a patron rather than a patroness has been chosen to host the festival and, after an 11-year string of male presidents, this year, the position will be held by a woman. Actor Alessandro Borghi will host the opening and closing events of the 74th Venice International Film Festival 2017, while American actress Annette Bening, a four-time Oscar nominee (The Grifters, 1991; American beauty, 1999; Being Julia,2004 and The Kids Are All Right, 2010), has been named President of the jury. www.labiennale.org/en/cinema

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Palazzo Ca’ Vendramin Calergi (Casinò di Venezia)

Overlooking the Grand Canal, this building houses the oldest casino in the world. An ageold destination, for aristocratic travelers from both East and West, Venice was the first city in the world to open a gaming house way back in 1683. Today its old-world ambience continues to play host to several of the world’s most classical games. The casino is open to everyone aged 18 and over and proper attire is required. www.casinovenezia.it. Cannaregio, 2040 (Calle Colombina). Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marcuola stop). Map E3

Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square)

Known throughout the world, this square is the heart of Venice and its most symbolic landmark. It consists of a central, trapezoid-shaped unit integrated with other areas. Measuring 170 metres in length, it faces directly onto the water and is surrounded by several magnificent stately buildings. Its incalculable scenic beauty makes it one of the most widely-photographed places in the world. The best thing to do here is to look around and exult, but don’t forget that the square has a number of specific landmark sites, whose interiors can also be visited: the Basilica of San Marco (see listing), the Bell Tower (see listing), Palazzo Ducale (see Museums listings), the Clock Tower (see listing) and some 18th century cafés, the Florian and the Quadri, to mention the bestknown... Vaporetto lines, 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs)

The Bridge of Sighs is a Baroque bridge that, by crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from which its name derives are not those of lovers, but those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. Open daily 8.30am-

7pm. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 31024 (piazza San Marco). T:041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1,2, (San Marco stop). Map F4

Ponte di Rialto (Rialto Bridge)

This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Witness to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it (shutterbugs permitting), but even more spectacular when seen from the water, perhaps aboard a gondola. Originally built during medieval times as a pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto Market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. Unfortunately, it is not accessible to everyone; between upward and downward slopes, it includes as many as 120 steps. San Polo, 30125 (access from Ruga dei Oresi or from Salizada Pio X). Vaporetto linea 1,2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

San Giorgio Maggiore

Boasting a monastery and an adjoining museum (see Museum listings), the church of San Giorgio Maggiore sits on the little island of San Giorgio Maggiore across from St. Mark's square. One of the masterpieces of Andrea Palladio, the church, and the entire complex, which holds a number of marvelous surprises including a maze, is worth visiting. This small island, that is a part of the panorama that can be enjoyed from St. Mark's square, is separated from the Giudecca by the lagoon island of La Grazia. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 5227827. Vaporetto line 2 (San Giorgio stop). Map G5

Santa Maria della Salute (Church of the Virgin Mary of Good Health)

Generally referred to as “La Salute,” this crown jewel of 17th-century baroque architecture proudly stands at a commercially and aesthetically important point, almost directly opposite the Piazza San Marco, where the Grand Canal empties into the lagoon. Designed by Longhena, whose work was influenced by Palladio, it was constructed to honor the Virgin Mary for delivering Venice from the plague of 1630. On 21 November each year, a popular religious

celebration, marking the official end of the Black Death, is held here. The church is also famous for its organ concerts. Open daily 9am-12noon/3pm5.30pm. www.basilicasalutevenezia.it. Fondamenta Salute, 30123. T: 041 2743911. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map E5

Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari

Known by the Venetians simply as ‘i Frari’, this landmark features 17 monumental altars and is the largest church in the city. This medieval church in Gothic-Venetian style, houses, in addition to two paintings by Titian, the tombs and funerary monuments of numerous famous people, including Titian, Monteverdi and Canova. chorusvenezia.org. Campo dei Frari. T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 1, 2, N (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Santi Giovanni e Paolo

One of the city’s most important examples of medieval architecture, Santi Giovanni e Paolo is considered the Pantheon of Venice because all the Venetian doges, starting from the 13th century, are buried here, together with numerous other notable personages. www.basilicasantigiovanniepaolo.it. Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo (Please note: this site might be marked in Venetian dialect as ‘san ZaniPolo’ on the city’s maps). T: 041 5235913. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Fondamente Nove stop, Ospedale Civile stop). Map F3

Scala Contarini del Bovolo

Palazzo Contarini is an exquisite, late Gothic building. However, what makes it such a popular attraction today, was the addition, by its architects, in 1499, of an amazing, external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. Open Tues-Sun: 10am-1.30pm/2pm6pm. www.scalacontarinidelbovolo.com. c/o Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo. San Marco, 4299 (Campo Manin, Rio San Luca). T: 041 3096605. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map E4

Scuola Grande dei Carmini

Housed in a 16th century palazzo, it is the seat of an ancient brotherhood and all its original furnishing and a number of priceless oil paintings have been preserved intact. The drama builds when entering the Sala del Capitolo, whose ceiling features nine exceptional canvases painted by the brotherhood’s most famous member, Giambattista Tiepolo. Open daily 11am-5pm. www.scuolagrandecarmini.it. Dorsoduro, 2616 (Campo dei Carmini, Campo Santa Margherita). T: 041 5289420. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). Map C5 PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK

Teatro La Fenice

PALAZZO DUCALE BY MOONLIGHT This summer, visitors can enjoy an evocative ‘night’ tour of the Doge’s Palace, a great way to explore the masterpieces of one of the Serenissima’s landmark sights. Until 15 October, Friday to Saturday, the Doge’s Palace stays open until 11pm. Guided tours for adults and families in English, French and German can be booked on-site. palazzoducale.visitmuve.it

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Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only strongly associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it is also a stunning feat of architecture. teatrolafenice.it. Ticket office T: 041 2424. San Marco, 1965 (Campo San Fantin). Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E4

The islands

Although the whole of Venice lies on an archipelago, an ‘excursion to the islands’ generally means a half-day cruise on a boat to visit the islands of


MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Murano, Torcello and Burano, three charming, small islands, rich in history and tradition. Murano is famous throughout the world for its hand-blown glass (artisanal workshops still display glassmakers at work). Torcello, birthplace of the lagoon, once a thriving town with 8,000 inhabitants, is today a semirural island with only 17 permanent residents and two medieval churches that speak poignantly of past glories, and Burano, one of the most photographed sights in the world, thanks to colourful houses reflected in its canals. Burano is also famous for its artisanal lace work and a particular kind of biscuit, which also resembles lace. Find out more and buy tickets for your trip to these magical destinations. Visitors love these islands, and there may be a risk of not finding a seat on the boat. See Map page 62.

| SIGHTSEEING

Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana

MUSEUMS & EXHIBITION SITES Ca’ Pesaro-International Gallery of Modern Art

Hosts important 19th and 20th century collections of paintings and sculptures, including masterpieces by Klimt and Chagall as well as noteworthy oeuvres by the likes of Kandinsky, Klee, Matisse and Moore. Other highlights include a rich selection of works by Italian artists and an important selection of graphics. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10. www. capesaro.visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 2076. Vaporetto line 2 (San Stae stop). Map E3

Ca’ Rezzonico-Museum of Eighteenth Century Venetian Art

The large staircase of this magnificent palazzo leads to several elegant rooms housing paintings, sculptures and 18th century furnishings (first floor): the ‘Portego dei dipinti’ featuring canvases by Canaletto, a room dedicated to Longhi and the frescoes painted by Giandomenico Tiepolo detached from the walls of Villa Zianigo (second floor); the rooms of the Farmacia Ai do San Marchi and the exquisite Pinacoteca Egidio Martini (third floor). Alternately, the Browning Mezzanine houses the works of the Mestrovich Collection, including works by artists like Tintoretto and Bonifacio de' Pitati. Closed on Tues, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10. www.carezzonico.visitmuve.it. Dorsoduro 3136 (Fondamenta Rezzonico). T: 041 2410100. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). Map D5

Casa Museo Andrich-Modern Art Gallery and Historic Garden

The house of the two artists, Clementina and Lucio Andrich, testifies to the artistic vibrancy of Venice between the 1950s and the 1980s. Silks, tapestries, glass, sculptures, paintings, engravings, mosaics and furniture are displayed on a rotational basis and can be admired during a guided tour. Set in an 11,000 square meter orchard-garden, inhabited by herons and flamingoes from March to September, Casa Andrich overlooks the beautiful lagoon landscape of Torcello. Open daily. Guided tours in Italian, English and French are conducted at 10am11am; 2.30pm-3.30pm; 4.30pm-5.30pm. Visits must be booked online (www.veneziaunica.it). Ticket pricing varies based on the type of visit chosen. www.museoandrich.com. Torcello island, 4/L. T: 347 2391861. Vaporetto line 12. Off Map

Fondazione Cini-San Giorgio Maggiore

Set against the magnificent backdrop of the Basin of St Mark, the Foundation was established in 1951 by Count Vittorio Cini to restore the Island of San

If you stand with your back to Palazzo Ducale you can admire the magnificent Palazzo della Libreria Sansovina, the seat of the Biblioteca Marciana (Marciana National Library), a symbol of Venetian culture. This library boasts a heritage collection of more than one million books preserved alongside the works of great masters including Titian and Tintoretto. Its headquarters, located in the former Mint of Venice and, more specifically, in Piazzetta San Marco, include the adjacent building of the Public Library of St. Mark, with its ancient Reading Room and Vestibule. Some interesting facts for book lovers: its impressive heritage collection includes approximately 1,000,000 books, 13,117 bound manuscripts and 4,639 unbound manuscripts, 2,887 incunabula (documents printed before 1501) and 24,060 ‘cinquecentine’ (16th-century editions). Giorgio Maggiore and to create an international centre of cultural activities. The Foundation is housed in the monumental complex of the former Benedictine Monastery of San Giorgio Maggiore, a place of inestimable architectural and artistic prestige, thanks to works by several of Italy’s greatest 16th and 17th century masters. Enlarged in the 16th century by Andrea Palladio, who also designed its refectory, the church of San Giorgio Maggiore and the Cloister of Cypresses, in addition to numerous other treasures, the complex hosts an impressive collection of paintings by Jacopo Tintoretto, as well as several 16th and 17th century works of arts. Guided tours in Italian, English and French on Saturdays and Sundays. For information and booking T: 041 2201215. Full price ticket €10.

A visit to the Monumental Rooms of the Library is an absolute ‘must’ (opening hours: 10am-7pm). Featuring an extraordinary Staircase of Honour, a Vestibule, which was later transformed into a Public Statuary, and an ornately decorated Library Room, it is of significant artistic and historical interest and well worth a visit. You can access the Monumental Rooms through the entrance of the Correr Museum (St. Mark’s Square, Napoleonic Wing) using the single ticket for all the Museums in St. Mark’s Square, valid for the Doge’s Palace and the combined itinerary of the Museo Correr, the Museo Archeologico Nazionale and the Monumental Rooms of the Marciana National Library (http://correr.visitmuve.it/ it/pianifica-la-tua-visita/biglietti/). Please Note: free guided tours of the Library are organized every second Sunday of the month, booking required. http://marciana.venezia.sbn.it (Stefania Vida) www.cini.it. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 2710280. Vaporetto line 2 (Isola di San Giorgio stop). Map G6

Gallerie dell'Accademia di Venezia

VENETIAN MUSEUM HUB Following a Napoleonic decree, the Gallerie dell'Accademia were instituted as an educational adjunct to the Academy of Fine Arts. They host the most important collection of Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo, and works by several important landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com  53


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monumental complex hosting these works occupies the ancient church of Santa Maria della Carità, the Scuola Grande della Carità and the Canonici Lateranensi convent complex designed by Andrea Palladio in 1561. Open Mon 8.15am-2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Full ticket price: €9. Ticket pricing may vary during temporary exhibitions. www.gallerieaccademia. it. Dorsoduro 1050 (Campo della Carità). T: 041 5222247. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop). Map D5

Galleria Giorgio Franchetti alla Ca' d'Oro

The Ca' d'Oro, an ancient 15th century Patrician dwelling, hosts the art collections that were donated to the State by Baron Giorgio Franchetti. These include period furnishing, tapestries, paintings, sculptures and bronzes. Its current collection features a mixture of Renaissance works from the Lombard, Venetian, Reggio Emilia and Flemish schools, as well as masterpieces like Andrea Mantegna’s renowned St. Sebastian. An interesting collection of ceramic relics from the Venetian lagoon are housed at Ca' Duodo, the building lying adjacent to Ca’ d’Oro. Open Mon 8.15am-2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Full ticket price: €6. Ticket pricing may vary during temporary exhibitions. www.cadoro.org. Cannaregio, 3932 (Strada Nuova). T: 041 5200345. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E3

Museo Correr

The museum is located in the old Royal Palace in St. Mark’s Square and includes the Napoleonic Wing and the Procuratie Nuove. Built to house Teodoro Correr’s collection, it features several exhibition spaces dedicated to the art and history of Venice. These include the neo-classical rooms housing sculptures by Antonio Canova, historic collections describing the changing cityscape of Venice and, finally, the pinacoteca, boasting important masterpieces of Venetian art from its origins to the 16th century. Open daily. www.correr. visitmuve.it. San Marco 52 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2405211. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso stop or, San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

The 'Bagnante' bronze sculpture by Max Klinger (1897) is part of the prestigious collection of CA’ PESARO.

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Museo d'Arte Orientale-Ca’ Pesaro

The museum, located on the top floor of the Galleria Internazionale d’Arte Moderna, is housed in an ancient building on the Grand Canal designed by Baldassare Longhena for the Pesaro family. Here, you will find one of the most important collections in the world of Japanese art from the Edo period: more than 30,000 pieces including swords and daggers, Japanese armour, delicate lacquer ware palanquin and priceless porcelain. Other highlights include extensive sections dedicated to Chinese and Indonesian art. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket (integrated with the International Gallery of Modern Art) €10. www.arteorientale.org. Santa Croce, 2076.T: 041 5241173. Vaporetto line 2 (San Stae stop). Map E3

Museo del Merletto (Lace Museum)

Located in Burano, the museum is housed in a small building, formerly home to Venice’s famous Lace School. Boasting more than two-hundred rare, priceless pieces, the exhibition chronicles the evolution of the art of lace-making in Venice from the 16th to 20th centuries. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €5. Joint ticket for the Glass Museum and the Lace Museum €12. www.museomerletto.visitmuve.it. Piazza Galuppi 187, Burano. T: 041 730034. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2, 5.2 (Fondamenta Nove stop), and then line 12 (Burano stop). Off Map

Museo del Vetro (Glass Museum)

Housed in the aristocratic palazzo Giustinian, on the island of Murano, the collections exhibited at the museum are arranged in chronological order: in addition to the archaeological section featuring Roman remains from the 1st and 2nd centuries A.D., you can also find an extensive range of historical objet d’art made from Murano glass, including important pieces produced between the 15th and 20th centuries. Open daily. Full price ticket €10. Joint ticket for the Glass Museum + Lace Museum €12. www.museovetro.visitmuve.it. Fondamenta Giustinian, 8. Murano. T: 041 5274718. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2 (Museo Murano stop). Off Map

Museo di San Marco

The itinerary that you’ll follow inside the museum, will take you from the historic area above the atrium-narthex of the Basilica and the former Banqueting Hall of the Doges, through the three extensive themes that are a part of the heritage of St. Mark’s Basilica: Mosaics, Textiles, the Quadriga and the Antico. Particularly noteworthy, amongst its relics and artworks, are the famous gilded bronze horses of St. Marks and the Basilica’s ancient fragments of mosaics, preserved in special containers known as ‘cassine’. The tour of the museum takes visitors through various areas of the Basilica, we therefore suggest wearing attire that is respectful of the religious nature of the Basilica. Open daily 9.45am-4.45pm. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €5. www.museosanmarco.it. San Marco 328 (Procuratoria di San Marco). T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto linee 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 o 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Museo di Storia Naturale

Housed in the Palazzo del Fondaco dei Turchi on the Grand Canal, its original, contemporary layout is divided into three sections each of which is, in actual fact, a museum within a museum. Its

collection includes more than two million pieces: zoological and paleontological collections, ancient herbariums, plant and fish fossils, a collection of minerals, a wunderkammer (cabinet of curiosities) housing more than 2,000 examples of different animal parts and a Venetian fish tank. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €8. www.msn.visitmuve.it. Santa Croce, 1730 (Fondaco dei Turchi). T: 041 2750206. Vaporetto line 1 (San Stae stop). Map D3

Museo Ebraico di Venezia

JEWISH MUSEUM This a ‘dispersed museum’; a highly unusual urban architectural museum complex that includes the museum itself, the Ghetto, synagogues and an ancient cemetery. It contains a small but precious collection of artifacts related to the long history of the Jews in Venice. Thanks to guided tours (in Italian and English), you can visit three of the area’s five historic synagogues, located between the Ghetto Vecchio (Old Ghetto) and the Ghetto Nuovo (New Ghetto), and the Old Cemetery (16th-18th century) in San Nicolò del Lido. Finally, to commemorate the tragedy of the Second World War, there is a bronze relief Holocaust Memorial in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo. Full price ticket €4; Jewish Museum + guided tour of the synagogues : full price ticket €10. www.museoebraico.it. Cannaregio 2902\b. T: 041 71535. Vaporetto lines 1-2 (San MarcuolaGhetto stop), lines 41-42-51-52 (Ponte delle GuglieGhetto stop). Map D2

Museo Querini Stampalia

The Querini Stampalia house-museum is an opulent patrician dwelling located on the ‘piano nobile’ of a 16th century palazzo, and features several unusual architectural elements designed by Carlo Scarpa, Valeriano Pastor and Mario Botta. Works displayed include paintings by Giovanni Bellini, Jacopo Palma the Elder and the Younger, Bernardo Strozzi, Marco and Sebastiano Ricci, Giambattista Tiepolo, Pietro Longhi and Gabriel Bella. In addition to the museum, the complex also has a library and a space dedicated to contemporary art exhibitions. Closed on Mondays. Museum and Display Areas full ticket price €10; Scarpa Area full ticket price €8. www. querinistampalia.it. Castello, 5252 (Santa Maria Formosa). T: 041 2711411. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (Rialto stop), lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1, 5.2, 7, 20 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Museo Storico Navale della Marina Militare

The Historic Naval Museum, the most important of its kind in Italy, is owned by the Italian Navy and is devoted to Venice’s seafaring history. In addition to the main building, whose exhibition spaces span 42 rooms and five floors, the ‘Padiglione delle Navi’ (Ships Pavilion), located in the Arsenale’s old ‘Oars Workshop’, is also a part of the museum. Built in the mid-16th century as a workshop to build and store oars, since 1980 it has housed an impressive collection of historical vessels, and is an extension of the main museum’s headquarters. > Venice’s Historic Naval Museum (Castello 2148, Riva San Biasio. T: 041 2441399) is currently closed for renovation but the Padiglione delle Navi, located just steps from the Naval Museum, is open for public viewing, > Padiglione delle Navi: from 1 June to 31 October: open daily, 8.45am-5pm (last admission 4.30pm); from 1 November to 31 May: Mon-Thurs 8.45am-1.30pm, Fri 8.45am-5pm (last admission


MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

4.30pm), Sat-Sun and public holidays 10am-5pm. Full ticket price €5. www.marina.difesa.it. Castello 2162/c (Rio della Tana). T: 041 2711411. Vaporetto line 1, 4.1, 4.2 (Arsenale stop). Map H5

Palazzo Cini-La Galleria

Situated in the Venetian 'Museums Mile', between the Accademia, the Peggy Guggenheim collection and the Punta della Dogana, the 16th century Palazzo Cini in San Vio is the house-museum of Count Vittorio Cini, and houses some remarkable art collections: 14th-15th century paintings from Tuscany and Ferraro (Piero della Francesca, Filippo Lippi, Dosso Dossi and Cosmè Tura), period furniture, silverware, ivories and ceramics. Closed on Tuesdays. Full price ticket €10. www.palazzocini.it. Dorsoduro 864 (San Vio). T: 041 2710217. Vaporetto Lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop), lines 2, 4, 5, 6 (Zattere stop). Map E5

Palazzo Ducale

www. palazzograssi.it. T: 041 2001057. Palazzo Grassi San Marco 3231 (Campo San Samuele). Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop), 1 (Sant’Angelo stop). Map D4 • Museo Punta della Dogana Dorsoduro 2. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map F5

Peggy Guggenheim Collection Palazzo Venier dei Leoni The museum, boasting one of the most important collections of 20th century art in Europe, hosts the personal collection of American heiress Peggy Guggenheim. Her palatial canal side home showcases her collection of Cubist, Furturist, Surrealist and Abstract Expressionist art, with works by almost 200 artists, including Picasso, Pollock, Kandinsky, Miró, de Chirico and Dalí. It also hosts the works of other important collections and prestigious temporary exhibitions. Open Wed-Mon 10am-6pm; Closed on Tuesdays. Full price ticket €15.

| SIGHTSEEING

www.guggenheim-venice.it. Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, Dorsoduro 701 (Canal Grande). T: 041 2405.440/419. Vaporetto line 2 (Accademia stop), line 1 (Accademia stop or Salute stop). Map E5

Scuola Grande di San Rocco The headquarters of the San Rocco Brotherhood, this stunning building, to which hardly any modifications have been made, hosts more than 60 masterpieces by artists of the likes of Giorgione, Tiepolo and Titian, still presented in their original layout. Its establishment represented an important moment in the history of 16th century Venetian art, above all thanks to Tintoretto’s famous cycle of Old and New Testament scenes. Open daily, 9.30am5.30pm. Closed on 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10; Scuola Grande + church €8. www. scuolagrandesanrocco.it. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco stop). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4

A landmark attraction, a masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, Venice’s Ducal Palace features a number of different and intricate architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it not only houses temporary exhibitions but can also be visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. The public entrance to the Doge’s Palace is through the ‘Porta del Frumento’ which leads to the spacious council rooms and then onwards to the exquisite rooms of the Doge’s Apartment. Other highlights on this route include the prisons and loggias overlooking the square and the lagoon. Open daily. www.palazzoducale. visitmuve.it. San Marco, 1 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti), 5.1 or 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Palazzo Fortuny

Mariano Fortuny (Granada 1871 - Venice 1949) transformed Palazzo Pesaro degli Orfei into his own personal atelier for photography, set-design, textile creations and paintings. The museum’s collections boasts an extensive collection of pieces and materials commissioned for important projects: paintings, lighting systems, photography and ornate garments. The building is now used to host art exhibitions. The museum is open only during temporary exhibitions. Open 10am-6pm. Closed on Tuesdays. Please note that prices vary depending on the exhibition being shown. www.fortuny.visitmuve. it. San Marco 3958 (Campo San Benedeto). T: 041 5200995. Vaporetto line 1 (Sant’Angelo stop), 2 (San Samuele stop). Map E4

Palazzo Grassi Museo Punta della Dogana Overlooking the Grand Canal and recently restored by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, Venice’s 18th century Palazzo Grassi and the former harbour of Punta della Dogana are two contemporary art museums funded by the François Pinault Foundation. They host important collective or monographic exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault Collection, one of the world’s largest collections of contemporary art. Palazzo Grassi’s ‘Teatrino’, an adjunct to the exhibition spaces, offers an action packed calendar of conferences, concerts and screenings of an international scope. Open daily 10am-7pm. Closed on Tuesdays, 25 December. Full price ticket €18 (Punta della Dogana+Palazzo Grassi).

Supporting excellence in Venice Conceived for the city of Venice and targeted at those who love it, this new cultural project, developed by Fondazione delle Arti (Venetian Arts Foundation), is headed by Olivier Lexa and Viola Romoli, under the supervision of international consultants. The Foundation, which was created to support high profile events connected with the tradition, identity and heritage ADVERTORIAL of Venice, has established a Club delle Arti (Arts Club), a meeting point for art lovers whose aim is to offer visitors a new means of exploring both the city’s centuries-old culture and its contemporary art. The Club offers a selection of world-class cultural events and is located in a prime position on the Grand Canal, at the historic Palazzetto Pisani, one of the few remaining literary salons in the city which has hosted prominent members of society including Gorbaciov, Bill Gates and Marina Abramovic. Excellence, invention, creativity and a dialogue among cultures and traditions from all over the world – which have always distinguished the spirit of the Serenissima – are the cornerstones of this new literary circle which offers international visitors a chance to experience the most authentic aspects of Venetian life. Club delle Arti c/o Palazzetto Pisani. San Marco, 2814. www.artivenezia.com

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ENTERTAINMENT

Music and masked opera Music, performances and spectacular 18th-century costumes combine to bring the past into the present. Even in August, entertainment in Venice is synonymous with "I Musici Veneziani". By Giulia Minero

I

magine combining the appeal of the most beautiful arias of Baroque music, the notes of violins and stringed instruments and the melodies of the best-known 18th-century composers with spectacular period masks and costumes, reminiscent of the splendour of the Serenissima. Add an exclusive setting, the Salone Capitolare of the Scuola Grande di San Teodoro, considered the most prestigious Venetian concert hall in the beating heart of Rialto and allow yourself to be captivated by the unique performance of "I Musici Veneziani". Formed in 1996, and comprising a carefully selected number of virtuoso musicians and singers, this intriguing, retro Venetian ensemble instantly made a hit on the local 56  W H E R E V E N I C E I AU G U S T 2017

cultural scene, but not only, soon transforming each performance into an unmissable, yearround event. If you happen to be in Venice in August you can choose from among several different repertoires. Performances start on 1 August at 8.30pm with ‘Baroque&Opera’, a unique selection of the most beautiful arias of Baroque tradition, combined with excerpts from several of Puccini and Verdi’s best-loved operatic works. The Orchestra is joined in concert by celebrated sopranos, tenors and baritones from all over the world. Good news: if you happen to have missed their first performance, the ensemble will be staging repeat concerts on 3, 5, 8, 10, 12, 15, 17, 9, 22, 24, 26, 29 and 31 August.

Alternately, if you’re a fan of epic violin music, don’t miss one of the evenings dedicated to 'Vivaldi’s Four Seasons': four concerti for violin and strings, each of which gives a musical expression to a season of the year, the ideal opportunity to rediscover the cyclical beauty of nature. When? On 2, 4, 6, 9, 11, 13, 16, 18,20, 23, 25, 27 and 30 August, at 8.30pm. Tickets for each performance can be purchased online on the official website. A wonderful way to make music a part of your visit to Venice! >> I Musici Veneziani c/o Scuola Grande di San Teodoro Campo San Salvador T: 041 5210294 www.imusiciveneziani.com


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM

CONCERT VENUES & THEATRES Teatro La Fenice

UNMISSABLE Located in the Sestiere San Marco, La Fenice Opera House is the one of the most legendary opera houses in Italy. Twice destroyed by fire (1836 and 1996) and twice restored to its former splendour, for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, symphonies and the International Festival of Contemporary Music. In the 19th century, it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Gioachino Rossini, Vincenzo Bellini, Gaetano Donizetti and Giuseppe Verdi, while in the 20th century it became a focal point for contemporary productions, featuring world premieres by Igor Stravinskij, Benjamin Britten, Sergej Prokofiev, Luigi Nono and Bruno Maderna and recently also operas by Mauricio Kagel, Adriano Guarnieri, Luca Mosca and Claudio Ambrosini. www.teatrolafenice.it. The theater is generally open daily for tours from 9.30am to 6pm. Full ticket: 10 €. The ticket price includes an audio guide, available in 5 languages (Italian, English, German, French and Spanish). San Marco, 4387 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 786672. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5

GAMBLING & CASINOS Casinò di Venezia

Inaugurated in 1638, this is the world's oldest gaming house and its charm has remained unaltered over the years. A perfect example of renaissance style stately home, the dwelling place of the doges and Richard Wagner’s last residence, Ca’ Vendramin Calergi is one of the most elegant buildings overlooking Venice’s major waterway, the Grand Canal. Today the rooms for elegant French games and American gaming tables are given over to the best professionals, whilst over 600 slot machines provide a more informal way of having fun. For venues, opening times, tickets: www.casinovenezia. it. Ca’ Vendramin Calergi - Cannaregio, 2040. T. 041 5297111. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marcuola stop). • Ca' Noghera - Italy’s first American-style casino, opened in 1999, it offers over 5,000 square meters of entertainment, including a new poker room for Texas hold’em Poker tournaments. Via Paliaga 4/8 Tessera (5 minutes from the Marco Polo Airport). Map E2

VENETO HOT VENUES Arena di Verona

The best-preserved Roman amphitheater in the world and the best known in Italy after Rome’s Colosseum, the Arena, the city’s legendary open-air opera house, is located in Verona’s historic centre (115 km from Venice). Each summer, since 1913, it hosts a famous opera festival featuring must-see performances and internationally renowned stars. www.arena.it. Verona, piazza Bra 1. T: 045 8005151, 5873. Off Map

Teatro Olimpico Vicenza

One of Vicenza’s artistic marvels (located 75 km from Venice), the Teatro Olimpico was designed by Renaissance architect Andrea Palladio in 1580. It is the first and oldest covered ‘Teatro Stabile’ in the world. Its interior simulates the outdoor setting of classical theatres, with a monumental rectangular proscenium, built to host its inaugural performance in 1585. Seven wooden perspective scenes depicting the streets of Thebes depart from here in a sunburst pattern. Included in UNESCO’s list of World Heritage

Sites in 1994, it continues to host performances and concerts. www.teatrolimpicovicenza.it. Vicenza, piazza Matteotti, 11. T: 0444 222800. Off Map

WELLNESS

LA FENICE OPERA HOUSE www.teatrolafenice.it

Boscolo Venezia

Elegance, style and design blend to create a regenerating oasis, the ideal place for a one-of-akind pampering experience offering a rich program of wellness and body treatments. c/o Boscolo Venezia. Cannaregio, 3500 (Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto - Calle Larga Piave). T: 041 2208111. Vaporetto line 4.1 and 5.1 (Sant’Alvise stop). Map E2

San Clemente Palace Kempinski

Here you can experience the Herb Massage Therapy service, a new approach to healing: an intimate and authentic journey based on the restorative powers of herb plants and the sensuous scents of Venice. The San Clemente Palace Kempinski offers a variety of massages - relaxing, Swedish and deep tissue - combining essential oils of lavender, rosemary and sage. Teas and coffee made with Venetian herbs and spices are complimentary. c/o San Clemente Palace Kempinski. www.kempinski.com. Isola di San Clemente, 1. T: 041 4750111. Hotel’s complimentary boat from piazza San Marco. Off Map

JW Marriott Venice

Housed in a simple and elegant building, the Spa – the largest in Venice with its 1,750 m² – opens like a shell onto the water and has eight treatment cabins with a view of the lagoon and a marvellous suite. c/o JW Marriott Venice. www.jwvenice.com. Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco. T: 041 8521300. Private boat from piazza San Marco c/o moletto JW Marriott every 30 minutes. Off Map

■ OPERA 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 August FELIX DNA A lights, sounds and video performance Experimental opera by: Fabrizio Plessi Music by: Giovanni Sparano 22, 27, 29 August LA TRAVIATA Music by: Giuseppe Verdi Enrico Calesso, conductor Robert Carsen, director Patrick Kinmonth, sets and costumes Philippe Girardeau, coreography 26 August MADAMA BUTTERFLY Music by: Giacomo Puccini Daniele Callegari, conductor Alex Rigola, director Mariko Mori, sets and costumes

L’chaim Tour del Ghetto ebraico cultura e golosità kasher Tour of the jewish Ghetto cultures and kosher goodies

‫לחיים‬

The Ghetto, tradition and taste

A new initiative of significant cultural and symbolic interest has launched in Venice. An expert guide will accompany visitors on a tour dedicated to discovering the Ghetto, a city landmark imbued with an old-world atmosphere. The tour includes a visit to three synagogues, the spiritual and artistic heart of the Ghetto, as well as one to the ancient pawn shop, the Banco Rosso or Red Bench (with the screening of a documentary about its history). This will be followed by a stopover at the Ghimel Garden, the only restaurant in the city certified as kosher by the Chief Rabbi of the Venice Community, where, after being welcomed with a traditional Jewish toast "Welcome L'chaim! L'chaim!", guests will be treated to a tasting menu featuring typically Jewish-Venetian cuisine and a selection of strictly kosher wines. For info and reservation: venicebeyondtheghetto.com

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ESSENTIALS

Venice, the Floating City Some information and invaluable tips to experience the best that this magical city on water has to offer. By Simona P. K. Daviddi Italians (at least many of them), may already know that Venice… actually floats! Unlike Amsterdam or Saint Petersburg, it is not just furrowed by canals, bordered by roads and pavements. In Venice, canals are the only available communication route, bearing in mind that part of the city extends over a handful of beautiful islands that are scattered across the Lagoon. For this reason, the lagoon city can only be crossed on foot or by boat. Cars, motorbikes, bicycles and even roller skates are strictly forbidden. But this is not all. At times Venice may find itself... under water! The acqua alta phenomenon – the result of heavy rainfall and high tides - can cause the water level to rise by as much as a meter, forcing everyone to walk on raised plank walkways, or don rain boots (many shops, including tobacconists, sell disposable 58  W H E R E V E N I C E I AU G U S T 2017

ones) in order to cross the city’s flooded calli, campielli and salizade. Calli, campielli and salizade are Venetian words used to identify streets, squares and alleys while sestieri is the local word indicating the six districts the city is divided into: San Marco, Dorsoduro, Cannaregio, Santa Croce, San Polo and Castello. This division dates back to the 12th century and also includes areas such as La Giudecca, the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore (San Marco) and the Island of San Michele, home to the city’s cemetery (Castello). Street numbers in each sestiere start from 1 and often reach four figures, for example, one of the last numbers of the sestiere of Castello is 7,000. You need to learn them if you want to find your way through the spectacular, maze-like historic centre.

Venice also has its own network of public... and private transportation: its vaporetti, real waterbuses, are the most popular craft used by locals, which is why they are often very crowded during peak hours. These enginepowered water taxis are able to whiz across the lagoon in a heartbeat, but for those who prefer a unique, incredibly romantic experience, the famous, distinctive gondola is an absolute must. This elegant, black, one-oared rowing boat drifts gently across the water, while its gondolier sings an entire repertoire of traditional Venetian folk songs. It goes without saying that the waters of the canals are not suitable for swimming, and their banks are often slippery. Be careful not to be so focused on your selfie stick that you walk into a canal because you might be in for some © PAOLA DALLA VALENTINA rather unpleasant surprises!


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM

Emergency

Fast Trains Network from Venice ↑ Zürich

7h 10m

6h 38m

Varese

3h 11m*

2h 54m*

4h 20m*

5h 06m*

10m

3h 41m*

4h 39m*

4h 24m*

3h 39m

Bergamo

Padova

3h 10m*

Novara

Cuneo

Brescia

Milano

Asti

2h 35m 2h 35m

5h*

Lodi

4h 58m*

3h 26m*

43m 43m

1h 10m 1h 10m

Piacenza 3h 14m*

3,13*

Pavia

France

Vicenza Verona

Alessandria ←

26m 26m 25m

1h 47m 1h 47m

3h 26m

5h 46m*

San Remo

5h 09m*

Savona

1h 01m

2h 28m*

Ravenna

6h 11m*

Bologna

← Nice 8h 10m* Marseille 10h 52m* Paris 14h 35m

2h 43m* 2h 28m*

Ferrara

Modena

2h 47m

Genoa

Imperia

57m 1h 04m

2h 29m

Reggio-Emilia

4h 53m*

Chioggia

Rovigo

Parma 2h 58m

6h 29m*

Venice

2h 38m*

Vercelli

2h 05m

1h 49m

Venice Mestre

Trento

Como

Chivasso

Trieste

Udine

Lecco

4h 30m

7h 40m

Tarvisio Boscoverde

Bolzano

Italy

Ivrea

Airports

Trains

Austria Italy

Switzerland

Turin

↑ Vienna

4h 42m

Chiasso

all pharmacies.

INTERNATIONAL MARCO POLO DI TESSERA AIRPORT (VCE) - Venice’s Marco Polo Airport offers easy access to numerous destinations located in the Veneto region and in Northern Italy, the Canova di Treviso Airport (in Sant’Angelo) and main railway routes. The Marco Polo Airport is situated at a distance of 13 km from Venice (www.veniceairport.it). Trasportation from the Marco Polo Airport to the historic centre of Venice (and vice-versa): • Taxis (15 min. to Piazzale Roma, approximately €40); • water taxis (fast, private motorboats, approximately €80 ). This service is operative 24/24h (Consorzio Motoscafi Venezia www.motoscafivenezia.it. T: 041 5222303). • ATVO shuttle bus (20 min. to Piazzale Roma, €3, luggage included); • ACTV bus no. 5 (30 min. to Piazzale Roma with intermediate stops, €1, luggage excluded); • Alilaguna motorboats (a private service that uses ACTV’s network of docking stations with intermediate stops at strategic points throughout the city. Fares range from 8 to 27 euros). www. alilaguna.it. T: 041 2401701.

↑ Innsbruck 4h 25m*

6h 03m*

Aosta

19/06/2017 Map of high-speed trains in northen Italy. Designed for Gruppo PROEDI by Dmitriy Goloub, Typeface used: Tiberino Sans WF

↑ Geneve

POLICE T: 113 AMBULANCE T: 118 FIRE BRIGADE T: 115 TRAFFIC POLICE T: 041 2747070 LOST AND FOUND ON VAPORETTI T: 041 2722179 24-HOUR PHARMACY: check the display at

1h 29m 1h 29m 1h 25m

La Spezia

5h 22m*

Massa

2h 29m*

4h 18m*

Faenza

4h 14m*

Viareggio

Lucca

3h 49m*

3h 24m*

Forli

2h 40m*

3h 01m*

Empoli

Pisa

Rimini

Florence

Livorno 3h 49m*

Siena

2h 37m

2h 05m 2h 05m 2h 05m

Pesaro

3h

4h 13m*

5h 20m*

Ancona

Arezzo

Piombino

3h 32m

3h 05m*

5h 36m

Grosseto Perugia 4h 51m*

Train lines: Frecciarossa Frecciabianca Frecciargento Italo Thello Eurocity Regional trains

Viterbo

Terni

5h 19m*

4h 35m*

Pescara

Civitavecchia

4h 43m

5h 19m

Rome 3h 24m 3h 45m 3h 33m

Bari ↘ Lecce

7h 24m 8h 51m

*with interchange 5h 10m 5h 05m

Naples ↘

“SESTIERI”, THE DISTRICTS OF VENICE

FERROVIE DELLO STATO - Trenitalia Railway

Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com. Venice’s Railway Station (Santa Lucia) can be accessed from all main European and Italian cities. The Railway Station overlooks the lagoon and is located just steps from the stops of Venice’s main public transportation lines. E.g.: to reach St. Mark’s Square by vaporetto, take line 1 or 2. Estimated journey time from main Italian cities via high-speed trains, including Frecciarossa, Frecciabianca, Frecciargento, Italo, Thello, Eurocity:

Tourist Information

Santa Croce

Isola di San Michele

Cannaregio

San Polo Dorsoduro

Castello

San Marco

Giudecca

Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore

APT - Azienda di promozione Turistica Città

Metropolitana di Venezia (eng.turismovenezia. it/): Palazzetto Carmagnani, San Marco 2637. T: 041 5298711. VENEZIA UNICA - The official tourism website

of the City of Venice (www.veneziaunica.it)

Tourist Card VENEZIA UNICA CITY PASS is an all-in-one pass

that offers unlimited use of public transportation, admission to tourist attractions and cultural events in the city, plus a number of other useful services. You can purchase your card online and customize your Venezia Unica City Pass to suit your individual travel needs (www.veneziaunica.it/en) exchange vouchers. Open daily 9am-4pm. T: 392 6786628.

Cannaregio, like Castello, is the largest and most densely populated district of Venice. Its name probably derives from the expanse of reeds found in the swamps on which it was built. Castello takes its name from the castle of which traces still remain today. It extends around the Arsenale and includes the Gardens of the Biennale and the Riva degli Schiavoni. Dorsoduro is named after the compact sand dunes found in this area. It overlooks both the Grand Canal and the Giudecca Canal, along which the long promenade known as the Fondamenta delle Zattere stretches.

San Marco takes its name from the Basilica. This is the city’s main sestiere because it houses the palaces that once constituted the government of Venice until its fall. San Polo, which takes its name from the church of San Polo, is the geographic centre of Venice. It stretches from the highest part of the Rialto Bridge and is the place where the Rialto fish and vegetable market is held. Santa Croce takes its name from the ancient church of the same name which unfortunately was demolished under Napoleon’s rule. It includes the Stazione Marittima and the piazzale Roma terminal, a junction for train and road transport (buses, cars) and lagoon traffic (ferries, vaporetti or water buses).

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ESSENTIALS Special Tours CITYSIGHTSEEING VENICE HOP ON-HOP OFF Exclusive view on the city of Venice. www.venezia.city-sightseeing.it • Tickets 24h: adults 20€, children (5-15 years) 10€. • Tickets 48h: adults 27€, children (5-15years) 13€. Tickets available: on board at any boat stop, at the CitySightseeing Venice Visitor Center, on the "Sightseeing Experience" free App, on www.venezia.city-sightseeing.it. • Duration: 150 minutes (every 60 minutes) • Services: wheelchair welcome, free Wi-Fi, Free "Sightseeing Experience" App (for Apple and Android smartphones) with the City Sightseeing Tour Map always with you, walking tour available in 5 different languages, CitySightseeing Venice Visitor Center. • Eight Stops: Ferrovia Compartimentale Santa Lucia – Stazione Marittima (Cruise Terminal) – San Marco, in front of Giardinetti Reali – Lido S.M. Elisabetta, pontile ACTV – Murano, Yalos Murano Pontile Fornace Ferro – Zattere Incurabili – Stazione Marittima (Cruise Terminal) – Ferrovia Compartimentale Santa Lucia. • New CitySightseeing Venice Visitor Center (inside the main train station Venezia Santa Lucia,next to "Freccia Club Trenitalia": any kind of information on the service and on the city, maps and exchange vouchers. Open daily (from April to November): 8.30am-5.30pm. T: 392 6786628.

GALEONE VENEZIANO A unique way to visit the lagoon of Venice, while savouring its aristocratic beauty and historical legacy. Built in 2001, to fulfil the dream of ship owner Andrea Longo, the “Galeone Veneziano” is a vessel inspired by ancient galleons, launched by the Serenissima. • Services: revisited with a contemporary twist, the galleon offers all the services of a modern ship: it is a one-of-a-kind location for parties and a great way to amaze your travel companions. A unique location that can be hired for private events, business meetings and incentives, weddings and parties offering guests a special tour, with or without lunch or dinner, while sailing among the islands. The galleon can be decorated with flags and banners. • Events: moreover, every Wednesday and Friday evening, you can book a table for a “Galleon Dinner Cruise in Venice” (by reservation only, just 30 seats): charming candlelight dinner, while sailing in front of Saint Mark’s square and moving on towards Murano, Burano, Mazzorbo. • About the Galeone Veneziano – It can sail all year long as during the winter has a rigid covering and heating; in summer, in case of bad weather it has a protective covering. Equipped with wired audio system with microphones and accessible to the differently-abled. There are two galleons at disposal: each one has the maximum capacity of 146 passengers for private events, 84 seats in case of table service meal. • Information: +39 0421 380006. info@jollyroger.it - www.galeoneveneziano.it

PHOTO © SVIDA_WHEREITALIA

Gondolas, a tourist’s dream!

A hallmark symbol of Venice, who has never dreamt of riding on one of these marvels of craftsmanship, whose charms have withstood the test of time? The components (approximately 280) of these extraordinary craft still bear their almost fairytale-like names of the past: ‘sankòni’, ‘fiùboni’, ‘solarai’ and ‘maistre’... To name but a few.

60  W H E R E V E N I C E I AU G U S T 2017

Tradition has it that each gondolier has his own gondola, custommade according to his weight and height. Among the most ancient boatyards (or 'squeri'), the most remarkable is perhaps that of Domenico Tramontin and Sons. Established in 1884, it was the supplier to the House of Savoy, the Prefecture and the Commune of Venice (Dorsoduro, 1542. www.tramontingondole.it). An interesting feature that you are bound to notice on a gondolier’s uniform is the logo. Its most recent version was created by the Style Department of Duca d’Aosta, a shop established in 1902 in the Rialto neighbourhood by Emilio Ceccato. The logo features St. Mark as the Winged Lion, holding an open book, a symbol of peace and strength, framed by two 'ferri' – the traditional iron gondola prow ornaments (also known in Venetian as 'fero da próva' or 'dolfin'). Bringing one home as a keepsake is neither easy (nor cheap!), but you can avoid this by purchasing a souvenir created ad hoc. Where? At Emilio Ceccato’s clothing and accessory store, the official supplier and technical sponsor of the Associazione Gondolieri di Venezia (The Gondolier’s Association of Venice) in San Polo 16/17 (T: 041 5222700) and in San Marco, 257 (T: 041 8478885). www.emilioceccato.com


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM

GETTING AROUND VENICE Because it is a relatively small, compact city (a 45-minute walk from North to South) whose main points of interest are situated just a short distance from each other, visiting Venice on foot is the ideal solution.

VENICE HELICOPTER TOURS

Tickets - Although paper tickets are available at main embarkation points and from authorized resellers displaying the ACTV logo, electronic tickets can also be pre-purchased online. ACTV: Piazzale Roma. T: 041 2424. www actv.it. There are 6 different types of tickets, ranging from hourly tickets (€7.50 for a 75’ regular route) to a weekly pass (€60) for unlimited travel on almost all lines. TIP The boat trip from one bank of the Grand Canal to the other costs 2 euro (only cash). You can pre-purchase reduced-price tickets from Venice Connected: www.veniceconnected.com. IMOB smart cards are available at all ACTV ticket offices. Although they allow you to save on official rates, they are only recommended for long-term visits. Gondolas - These traditional craft are among the best-known tourist attraction for those wishing to experience a view of Venice that is anything but pedestrian. They are used almost exclusively by tourists (and Venetians on their wedding days). TIP Before embarking, we suggest that you check official rates (approximately €80 for 45 minutes and €100 after 7pm). Agree on a price, time limit and singing in advance to avoid unexpected surcharges. Associazione dei Gondolieri T. 041 5285075. www.gondolavenezia.it Traghetti (Ferries) - ‘Traghetti’ are gondolas that cross the Grand Canal in 8 points. ‘Traghetti’ rides cost just €2 for non-residents (for holders of City Pass Venezia Unica or ACTV passes, rides cost 0.70) and operate almost non-stop. Four ferry services operate in Venice. Taxi - Water taxis with a cabin (private water taxis) are available for hire from 16 landing stages, including Lido Aeroporto Marco Polo, piazzale Roma, Ferrovia, Rialto and San Marco, or from your hotel. TIP Although private water taxis can be costly, they are the fastest and most practical means of getting around Venice. Ask your concierge. Car - The city can be accessed from the mainland by car, thanks to an elevated section (a 4km bridge, the longest in Italy, also known as the ‘Translagunare’), with limited parking options at garages in Piazzale Roma or on the Island of Tronchetto. Prices for 24-hour parking cost approximately €30 euro. TIP It’s advisable to travel to Mestre by car (24-hour parking costs approximately €15 euro) and then continue on to Venice by public transport.

Photo: Riccardo Roiter Rigoni

Vaporetti - An efficient network of water bus routes covers the entire city and includes transportation to the islands.The service is active 24/24h but runs less frequently between 9.30pm and 6am. Landing stages are located at central points around the city (including Piazzale Roma, Rialto, Piazza San Marco…) .

Aeroporto G. Nicelli – Lido di Venezia T. +39 334 786 0653 info@heliair.it – www.heliair.it

Joi n u s f o r a n u n f o r g e t t a ble e x pe r ie n c e in Ve n ic e

... Ask only for the Best Ser vice! lnternational Limousine Service is the exclusive ticket resale point for the Gran Teatro La Fenice and the Arena of Verona w w w. i n t e r n a t i o n a l l i m o u s i n e . i t Piazzale Roma 496 I-L T: +39 041 5221867 w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com  61


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Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore

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Redentore O

Santissimo Redentore

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del

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La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale

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ISOLA DI

GIUDECCA FONDA

VIDA

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LA

DI

PONTE

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DE

Museo Storico Navale di Venezia

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CALLE

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La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese

RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA

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SAN

'EU

La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale

Arsenale di Venezia

Arsenale di Venezia

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San Gregorio

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Sant'Eufemia

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CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA

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CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO

San Giovanni Battista in Bragora

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S. Zaccaria (Pieta')

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CALLE

SAN

SALIZADA

DEL

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CALLE

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FONDAMENTA

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA

San Giovanni di Malta

CALLE TERAZZERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’

Santa Maria della Pietà VONI

S. Zaccaria (Danieli)

DEGLI

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

SALUTE

LAVRANERI

ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

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DEGLI

CALLE

SAN

CALLE DEL PESTRIN

TERRÀ

CALLE

CALLE SAN LORENZO

CALLE LION

San Giorgio dei Greci

San Zaccaria

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O

SCHIAVONI RIVA

CALLE

VERONA

DEGLI

CALLE BOSELLO

LA

MINELLI

RIO

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA

San Lorenzo

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

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DE

CAVALLETTO

ORSEOLO

FONDAMENTA DEL VIN

DEL

C.

CALLE

S. SAMUELE

PESTRIN

CALLE

TRONCHETTO

DEL NOVA ISOLA

FONDAMENTA

ra Scomenze De

MARITTIMO

Canale

PORTO

FONDAMENTA

F. CONDULMER

DIREZIONE

MARITTIMO

CERERIA LA

PORTO

DE C.

DEL CAFETIER

CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA

DE L’OSMARIN FONDAMENTA

CAMPO SAN PROVOLO SOTO E CORTE NOVA

C.

Rio Del

FABBRI

FONDAMENTA

DEL

CAMPO DELLA SALUTE

Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

CALLE DEL BASTION

FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

CALLE

DEI PRETI

CALLE

CALLE

GATE

ZORZI SALIZADA

C. PIANTON

R I VA

DRASI

a

CALLE

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

CORTE NOVA

CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO

DE LE

SPECHIERI

SPADARIA

DEI

PISCINA

VERONA

RC

CALLE

DEI

CALLE

C. DE LE COLONNE

DELL’OROLOGIO

LA

CALLE

DE

A N M

SALIZADA

DIREZIONE

LATERANO

SEVERO

CALLE

MARZARIA

REDIVO

CALLE GOLDONI

CALLE

Marittim

Santa Maria del Pianto

DE LE TOLE

FONDAMENTA GIOVANNI

CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO

BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO

SAN

FABBRI

C.

MANDOLA

AVVOCATI

TERÀ

RIELO

SPORCA CALLE PAZIENZE DE LE

LORENZO

FONDAMENTA

C. SAN

SCOAZZERA DE LA

LE PAZIENZE

SA

MEZO

GIUFFA

CASSELERIA

DEI

CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO

Palazzo Ducale

LO

Rio San Lorenzo

DE CALLE

RUGA

CALLE

PISCOPIA

CARBON

Salvador

LARGA

BARBARIA

SAN

CORTE NUOVA

San Giovanni Novo

MARCO

CANONICA DE LA

O

MO

FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO

LIO

DEL

CALLE

P U N TA S A B B I O N I

NOVE

Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto

CORTE TREVISAN

Palazzo Querini Stampalia

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

REMEDIO DEL

SAN

CALLE

RC

FONDAMENTA

SAN

San

RIO

CALLE

MAGAZZINI

San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti

Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo

Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo

CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

FORNO

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani

BANDE

CORTE FRUTARIOLI

CALLE

LARGA

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

Basilica di San Marco

MA

SAN

CALLE DEL FIGHER

CALLE

BALONI

CAPPELLO BIANCA CALLE

CALLE ERIZZO

SALIZADA

DE LE

ORBI

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

CALLE

DEI

CALLE

Rio

C.

AI

G. GALLINA

DEL

DE LE ERBE

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

TASCA

CORTE DEL FORNO

C.DEI

CALLE

BEMBO

ZULIAN

CORTE TORRETTA

ZZA

REMER

CALLE

GRIMANI

CAVALLI

Stazione

LARGA

CALLE

O MUSSATO CALLE

San Giuliano

SAN

PIGNOLI

O DEL

CINQUE

CALLE

CALLE

CORNER

zera

DEI

LIO

COCCO

TOSCANA

CALLE

LUCATELLO

MARZARIA DEI

Museo Correr

LE VIGNOLE

FONDAMENTA

CORTE NOVA

CALLE GABRIELI

DRIO CALLE LE SCUOLE

CALLE

CALLE

LICINI

MEZO

C.

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

PIA

FONDAMENTA

ZATTERE

DE LA SACA

CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO

CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO

NOVE

BERLENDIS

CORTE CORTESE

CAMPIELLO STELLA

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

CASTELLI

PIOMBO

D. PALLE

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

CORTE

RUBBI

DE

CORTE GRAGOLINA

Bacino Orseolo

Salute

Spirito Santo CALLE

DEI LAVRANERI

San Gerardo

BIAGIO

BOTERI

VARISCO

CALLE

SAN

C. LARGA

CORTE

CALLE

CAPITELLO

BALOTE

GALLO

CALLE

O

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN

CALLE

MIRACOLI

GIAZZO

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

CAMPO

DE LA FAVA

CALICE

DEL

TAGIAPIERA

LE

GRAGOLINA LE COLONNE DE

CALLE CAMPO SAN GALLO

Ca' Giustinian

RI

Palazzo Genovese

PONTE

SACCA SAN

DEI

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

WIDMANN

DEI

CALLE DEL C.MARTINENGO CALLE

GALIAZZO

C. DEL

SALVADOR

MARZARIA

CORTE C.DEL TRAMONTIN

C.DE

STRAZZE TERÀ RIO

CARRO

PRIMO RAMOCONTARINA CORTE

San Moisè

FONDAMENTE

LARGA

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

C O RT E B ATA G I A

RIO

Teatro Malibran

CALLE

DE

SAN

DELLE

SAN

DEL CALLE

CORTE BAROZZI

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

SAN CANZIAN

CAMPO

C. DEL

SABION

C.

C.

FRUTARIOL

DEL

CAMPO SAN MOISE’

CASTELLO

CALLE

MADONA

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

FREZZERIA

MOISE’

SA PISCINA

XXII MARZO

SESTIERE

ORESI

DE LA

FORNO

RAMO

DEL

DIETRO

RAMO

S.Canciano CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

DEI

PARANGON

CALLE

DOLERA

C. DE

RIO TERA’

L' ARZERE

GUARDIANI

DE

TODESCHI

CALLE

CANAL RIO TERA’

C. DEI

LARGA

CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

VENEZIA

CALLE

CAL

FRUTARIOL

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

CALLE

CALLE

Palazzo Pisani Gritti

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim

DEL FORNO

CALLE DEL NAVARO

FONDAMENTA

VENIER

BARBA

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

CORTE DEL

MARZARIA

San Salvador

MAGAZEN

DEL

CALLE

DE

X

SALIZADA

MAZZINI CORTE

LUCA SAN CALLE

CALLE

PISCINA

LA CHIESA

DRIO

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

FONTEGO

SAN LIO

LARGA

SAN SALVADOR

TEATRO DEL CALLE

LOCANDE

CALLE

CORTE

MICHIEL

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

Santa Maria del Giglio

CHIESA

SALIZADA

SPIRITO

CALLE

CORTE DEL REMER

RUGA

CALLE

CALLE

VOLTI

GALIZZI

ROSSA

nde Canal Gra

FONDAMENTA

RAGUSEI

FONDAMENTA

CROSERA

CALLE

CALLE

TRAGHETTO

VAPORETTO

CALLE

STURION

DEL

ALLO

ZEN

SARTORI

TERÀ

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

C. DEL

SALIZZADA PIO

CALLE

TEATRO

CALLE ASSASSINI

San Fantin

Maria del Giglio

Casa di Marco Polo

Fontego dei Tedeschi

Ponte di Rialto Rialto

CORTE DEL

Palazzo Nervi Scattolin

PATERNIN

MANDOLA

TERÀ

RIO

Teatro la Fenice

DELLA

CAPPUZZI

ZATTERE

CAMPO DEI GESUITI

FONDAMENTA

FOND.

RIO

SALIZADA

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

San Giacomo di Rialto

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

CAMPO MANIN SAN CALLE CALLE

CAFETIER

CAOTORTA

Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

CALLE

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

SANTO

DEL

CATERINA

San Giovanni Grisostomo

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

Rialto (Palazzo Cavalli)

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

TEATRO

MARCO

DEL

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

San MaurizioSanta

Canal Grande

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

SANTA

PRIULI

NOVA

PESCARIA

Fontego Palazzo Rava Dolfin Manin

S.Silvestro

DEL

CALLE

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

Santo Stefano

C.SANT'AGNESE

NANI

AI GESUATI

Giudecca Hilton

Chiesa dei Gesuiti

CAMPO DELLA

RAVANO

San Silvestro

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

Palazzo Grimani

San Beneto San Luca

SAN BOTEGHE

CAMPO PISANI

CATENE

S.ANDREA

FONDAMENTA

Santa Sofia

STRADA

FABBRICHE

DEL

RUGHETA

DEI

CALLE

CAZZIOLA

TRAGHETTO

DEL PISTOR

CALLE

Zattere

NOVE

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

FOND.

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

STUA

BECARIE

DEL SOL

DEL

DEL

CALLE

ZATTERE

CALLE

LA

CAMPO DE LA

CAMPIELLO DEL SANSONI

CAMPIELLO

CALLE

CAMPO SAN BENETO CALLE

LE

CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione FONDAMENTA

FONDAMENTE

Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana

MUTI

CAMPO SAN APONAL

LE

CA’

BOTA

Sant’Aponal DEL

DE

LA

CARAMPANE

de r an

NARISI FOND.

DE

CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

San Vidal CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

San Trovaso CAMPO SAN TROVASO

DEL

San Felice

LE

Palazzo Fortuny

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

CROSERA

FALIER

BONLINI

TRAPOLIN

VENDRAMIN

CALLE

DE

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

DI SAN MARCO

SAMUELE

Palazzo Loredan

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

LONGO

IA

CA'

DE DE

CARAMPANE

TERÀ

PERDON

CARROZZE

al G

SESTIERE

S. SALIZADA

LE

Abazia della Misericordia D

R

San Cassiano CALLE CALLE

RIO

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

Can Sant'Angelo

VECCHIA

LEZZE

FONDAMENTA

O

DE

Santa Fosca

CAMPO SAN CASSAN

L’AGNELLA

Palazzo Querini-Dubois

CA’ CORTE

DE

CALLE

S. Samuele

CALLE

OGNISANTI

IC

d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro

TIOZZI

DE

CORTE DEL TEATRO

CAMPO SAN POLO

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

DE

ER

C.

Rio Nuovo

FOND.

IS

NA

DEI

C.

SCALETER

CALLE RAMO

PONTE

M

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

DE

DEL

Palazzo Giustinian Persico S. Toma' SX

Palazzo Grassi San Samuele

Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia

BEATE GIULIANA

SACCA

FISOLA

LARGA

TA

S.Stae

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

CALLE CA’BONVINCINI

BOLDO

C.

EN

TRON

SAN

San Tomà

Ca' Rezzonico

Accademia

ZATTERE AL

CALLE CHIESA

CONTARINI

dell'Orto

AM

MORETTI

C.

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

CAMPO SAN TOMÀ

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI CALLE BERNARDO

FODAMENTA

S. Basilio

DELLA

D

San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale

CALLE

DEL

TENTOR

MEZO

CAMPO

ZANE

CROSERA

Ca' Rezzonico

Giudecca Hilton FONDAMENTO CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO

CALLE

N

CALLE

TABACCHI

Bacino

C.

DE

SAN BOLDO

CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO

Madonna

MORI

FONDAMENTA

SAN POLO

CAMPO DEI FRARI

CALLE

San Barnaba

DEI

CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE

L

CALLE

NUOVA

PRETI

L’ASEO

NA

CAMPO SAN STIN

TOMÀ

CAMPO SAN ROCCO

DE

CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA

CA

DONZELA

CALLE

TINTORETTO

DEI

CALLE

FOMO

DE OGNISANTI

LE

ALE

LA

SAN

CALLE

CALLE

CAMPO SAN PANTALON

RENIER

DEL

A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA

Chiesa di Ognissanti

FONDAMENTA

NIE

DD

DE

PAPADOPOLI

TERÀ

Basilica dei Frari

San Rocco

Muneghete

CALLE

CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA

INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON

.DA

MA

Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

CALLE

CALLE

RIO

CALLE

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

le

PANTALON

San Pantalon

NUOVO

LA

La Maddalena

Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

L’ISOLA

OCHE CALLE

OCHE

LATTE

LACA

FONDARIA

CIMESIN

de

BASEGO

RIO

CAMPO DEI CARMINI

À D E

SOTOPORTEGO

LA

CALLE DE LA LACA

LA

RAMO

CIMESIN

SAN

CALLE

Carmini

Santa Maria dei Carmini

FO de Servi N

TER

C.

TOLENTINI

FONDAMENTA

DEI

DE

CALLE DELL'OLIO

FON.

Canale

DE

DE LA VIDA

C.VENZATO

LA

CALLE

C. CAMPAZZO DE

CALLE

Rio

SALIZADA

del

CALLE DE LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN BESAGIO

100 m

TERA’

RAMO

CALLE ORSETTI

DE

TINTOR

BESAGIO

Misericordia

FO

RIO DIETRO TERÀ LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

DEL

SALIZADA

della

Rio

San Giacomo dall'Orio CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO CALLE

DEI

LIBERTÀ

VECCHIO BERGAMASCHI

SIMEONE LUNA

MINOTTO

Magazen

CALLE

Rio

DORSODURO

San Sebastiano SAN

CALLE CAZZA

FONDAMENTA

CANAL

LA

DEI AMAI

RAMO

Del

Rio dei Tolentini

FONDAMENTA

CALLE CONTARINA

BRIATI

CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO

CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN

RUGA BELA

BARI

DELLA

SAN

TRAGHETTO CALLE

CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL

CALLE SAVIO

RUGA VECCHIA

CAMPO

DEI

Angelo Raffaele

DORSODURO

Rio

CALLE

C.

NUOVA

CERERI

FONDAMENTA

LARDONI

Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola RIO

LARGA

PONTE PROCURATIE

DEI

CALLE

IA

CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA

DEL REMER

BIASIO

DI

BARI

C.

CALLE

LUNGA

Scomen

CALLE

RIZZI FONDAMENTA

FONDAMENTA

DE L’OGIO

RD

R

VECCHIO

RIVA

LISTA

San Simeone Profeta

Soranzo Cappello

DE CAMPO

San Nicola da Tolentino

Rio

PENSIERI

DEI FONTEGHERI

CALLE

I CALLE ORSETT

DEI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

ICO

NOVA

MISERICORDIA

SANT'ANDREA

FONDAMENTA

TERÀ

MADONA

SAN MICHELE

FONDAMENTA

della

CAMPO FONDAMENTA DEI MORI

ER

San Marcuola

CAMPIELLO

nde l Gra Cana Riva de Biaso

CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO

NAZARIO Palazzo FONDAMENTA SAURO Soranzo Capello GARZOTTI

Giardino di Palazzo

CASE CORTE

CALLE

C. LAVADORI TERÀ

TABACCHI

RIO

LA

MIS

RIO

NUOVE

CROCE

Giardino Papadopoli

PIAZZALE ROMA RIO

FABBRICA FONDAMENTA

DE

TA

E DEL PISTO

MUNEGHE

LA

CROCE

CALLE

CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI

EN

STRADA

DE

SPAGNA

FONDAMENTA

Ferrovia

CORTE

Sant'Andrea

SANT'ANDREA

NICOLO’ SAN

San Nicolò dei Mendicoli

CALLE

AM

CALL

San Leonardo

San Geremia DI LISTA TERÀ RIO

SCALZI

DEI Ponte degli Scalzi

FONDAMENTA

San Simeon Piccolo

Ferrovia

Ferrovia

LA FO.

TERÀ

MARTA

Istituto Universitario Di Architettura

CALLE SAN BASILIO

ND

I

EONARDO

SAN LEONARDO

CALLE TRAGHETTO

CALLE

CAVALLETTI

Santa Maria di Nazareth

P.le Roma

Ponte della Costituzione

RIO

People Mover Venezia

SANTA FONDAMENTA

MATTA DI CA’

CALLE CASE NUOVE

Madonna dell'Orto

MADONNA

A

Rio

LER

NA

AI

People Mover Venezia

S A N TA

CAMPIELLO LONGHI

CALLE

AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO

NS

DELL'ORTO

S. L R I O T E R À CAMPO

CAMPO SAN GEREMIA

PRIULI

Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia

ITTICO MERCATO DIREZIONE

SE

FO

ER LE P

SE

TRONCHETTO

CAMPIELLO P I AV E

FONDAMENTA

TA

Museo Ebraico CAL

A E M

CALLE

DEL

EN

CANNAREGIO

CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO

LL

NOVA

AM

San Girolamo

CA

ISOLA

TRONCHETTO

Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo

Sant'Alvise

CAMPO S A N T ' A LV I S E

ND

INE

DEL

ZZ

CALLE

PU

SAVORGNAN

MATTIA

CA

PISCINA

LE

FO

LE

O

SAN

DE

AM

L’ARCO

TA

OL

CALLE

EN

DE

AM

N G IR

SAN

ND

SA

Palazzo Nani FONDAMENTA

VECCHIA

TA

LLO

RUGA

FO

EN

TE

Palazzo Labia Parco Savorgnan Salone del Tiepolo

DA PONTE

AM

B AT

DOGE

ND

TA

CALLE

FORNER

EN

CAMPIELLO TRAGHETTO

DEL

AM

SEBASTIANO

CALLE

FO

ND

CANNAREGIO

di Cannaregio

CAMPO SAFFA

Parcheggio Bus Turistici

VENEZIA

di Sant'Alvise

Sensa

COLETTI

Canale

GIOBBE

People Mover Venezia

della

CARLO

FO

FONDAMENTA

SAN

San Giobbe

BRAGADIN

NUOVE

Rio

Rio

FOND.A

Ponte dei Tre Archi

FONDAMENTA

VENIER FONDAMENTA

PENITENTI

CANNAREGIO

DEL SABION

LARGA

FONDAMENTA

CAMPIELLO DEL SCARLATTO

CALLE

Monastero "Villa Groggia" Carmelitane Scalze

ROLAMO SACCA SAN GI

CALLE

Santa Maria delle Penitenti

CAMPIELLO DE LA LAVANDER

FONDAMENTA

F O N D A M E N TA

TA’

CORTE

ER

SANT'AGNESE

B

LA

Parco

LI

BRAGADIN

LA

PISCINA

EL

NUOVA ISOLA DEL TRONCHETTO

ISOLA DELLE TRESSE

FAUSTA

Chiesa di San Michele in Isola

D

FONDAMENTA

LE

INCURABILI

A

CALLE ZUCCHERO

VI

C A

FR

AN

VI

A

C

ES

S. Servolo

VI

A

SA

N

N TA

MA

P

O

N

M

IA

EL

AB

ET

TA

VI

A

IS

A

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AR

A

S

M

IR

N

M

.

FO

C

O

D

U

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D

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VI SC

AR

IN

VI

VIC

PA

OL

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IZ

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OL

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FR

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AU

FR

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C

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C

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D

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D

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RO

NO

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VI

A

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NU

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EG

VIA

N

IE

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BR

VI

GA

SA

RIA

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ISA

BE

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VIA

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AN

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MIC

VIA

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V I A L E PA N T O

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VIA

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MOCENIGO

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LM

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NG

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GU

ISOLA DI SAN LAZZARO DEGLI ARMENI

GL

VIA

VIA VETTOR PISANI

VIA

VI

A

FA

SA

MA

ND

RO

GE

AQU

TA

VIA

ER

VI

GR

DO

NZ

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Tempio Votivo Della Pace Di Venezia

VIA

GO

SAN MICHELE

SAN SERVOLO

LU

ISOLA LA GRAZIA

IO

VI

IP

R

O

VI

A

DE

LL

'O

SP

IZ

IO

M

AR

IN

O

RIV

RO

IER

CIP

A S A

Hundertwasser' Garden

VIA

N N IC

CALLE ORTI

IA

NI

A

IS

NA

A

D

A

LM

A

ZI

A

AR

M

M

ZO

AR

C

O

N

EL

LM

RE

CO

NI

VI

LO

LO

IE

A

GL

VI

GU

O

E

VIA CAN DIA

Festival Danza Orientale e Danza del Ventre Venezia

VI

A

VIA

CA

ND

IA

SANDRO

LU

NG

OM

AR

O SE LV

PO

VI

VIA

VIA

ENIC

GALLO

DOM

CO

GALLIPOLI

VIA

JA

VIA

Convento Delle Figlie Del Cuore Di Gesu'

LIDO DI VENEZIA 100 m

TR

VIA

SANDRO

ISOLA

GALLO

DI LEMNO

LU

Monastero Armeno Mechitarista

ISOLA SAN CLEMENTE

LAZZARETTO VECCHIO

Palazzo del cinema del Lido di Venezia VI

A

M

O

RO

SI

N

I

N

I

ISOLA DELLE ROSE

M O M EL

MB

ER

TI

Hotel Excelsior Venice

AN

LU

A

DR

EA

CA

LM

O

DI

CO

RI

NT

O

VI

N

G

O

M

AR

VI

TI

A

LA

LI

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NI

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AN

SA

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PIZZAMANO

E

VIA

ND

BU

D.

AR

O LL

O

RO

TR

GA

PIE

VIA

C

O

VIA

S. Antonio Di Padova

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see pages 4-5

S. Servolo

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Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo

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BASILICA DI SAN MARCO  PONTE DEI SOSPIRI  CANAL GRANDE  SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO  TEATRO LA FENICE  CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE DI SAN ROCCO  PALAZZO DUCALE  THE GHETTO  PONTE DI RIALTO  THE ISLANDS 

LL E

CA

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United States Pavilion

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w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com  63

L


[ O N LY AT P R E M I E R E H O T E L S ]

Where Venice Magazine

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5 STAR DELUXE (L) & 5 STAR Aman Canal Grande Venice Resort Hotel – San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo Baiamonte) • E4 Baglioni Hotel Luna – San Marco, 1243 • F5 Bauer Palazzo (L) – San Marco, 1459 • F5 Belmond Hotel Cipriani (L) – Giudecca, 10 • F6 Boscolo Venezia – Cannaregio, 3500 (Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto) • E2 Ca’ Sagredo (L) – Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99 • E3 Danieli – Castello, 4196 • F5 Excelsior Venice (L) – Lungomare Marconi, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map Hilton Molino Stucky (L) – Giudecca, 810 • C6 JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa (L) – Isola delle Rose – (Laguna di San Marco) • Off Map Londra Palace – Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4 Metropole – Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149 • G4 Palladio Hotel & SPA – Giudecca, 33 • F5 San Clemente Palace Kempinski (L) – Isola di San Clemente, 1 • Off Map SINA Centurion Palace – Dorsoduro, 173 • F5 The Gritti Palace – Campo Santa Maria del Giglio • E5 The Westin Europa & Regina –San Marco, 2159 • E5

Palazzo Stern – Dorsoduro, 2792/A • D5 Pesaro Palace – Cannaregio, 3935 (Calle Ca’ D’oro) • E3 Petit Palais Venice – Lungomare Marconi, 54 (Lido) • Off Map Principe – Cannaregio, 146 (Lista di Spagna) • D3 Quattro Fontane – Via Quattro Fontane, 16 (Lido) • Off Map Rialto – San Marco, 5149 (Riva del Ferro) • F4 Royal San Marco – Santa Croce, 578 • F4 Russo Palace Hotel – Riviera San Nicolò, 11/a (Lido) • Off Map Ruzzini Palace – Castello, 5866 (Campo di Santa Maria Formosa) • F4 San Marco Palace – Piazza San Marco, 875 • F4 Santa Chiara – Santa Croce, 548 • C3 Santa Marina – Castello, 6068 (Calle Seco Marina) • F4 Saturnia & International – San Marco, 2399 • E5 SINA Palazzo Sant’Angelo – San Marco, 3878/B – 3488 • E4 Starhotels Splendid Venice – San Marco, 760 (San Marco Mercerie) • F4 Torre Dell’ Orologio - San Marco Luxury Venice – San Marco, 288 • F4 Una Hotel Venezia – Cannaregio, 4173 (Ruga Do Pozzi) • F3 Villa Laguna – Via Sandro Gallo, 6 – (Lido) • Off Map Villa Mabapa – Riviera San Nicolò, 16 (Lido) • Off Map Villa Pannonia – Via Doge Michiel, 48 – (Lido) • Off Map

4 STAR & LUXURY RESIDENCES A La Commedia – San Marco, 4596 • E4 Ai Mori d’Oriente – Cannaregio, 3319 (Fondamenta Sensa) • E2 Best Western Biasutti Hotel – Via Dandolo, 29 – (Lido) • Off Map Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4488 (Calle Goldoni) • F4 Bucintoro – Castello, 2135/a • H5 Carlton On The Grand Canal – Santa Croce 578 • C3 Cavalletto & Doge Orselo – San Marco, 1107 (Sotoportego del Cavalletto) • F4 Colombina – Castello, 4416 (Calle del Remedio) • F4 Concordia – San Marco, 367 (Calle Larga San Marco) • F4 Continental – Cannaregio, 166 (Rio Terà Lista di Spagna) • D3 Duodo Palace – San Marco, 1887/1888 (Calle Minelli) • D3 Firenze – San Marco, 1490 • F5 Foscari Palace – Cannaregio, 4200/1/2 (Campo Santa Sofia) • E3 Grande Albergo Ausonia & Hungaria – Gran Viale S. M. Elisabetta, 28 (Lido) • Off Map Le Boulevard – Granviale S. Maria Elisabetta, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map Liassidi Palace – Castello, 3405 (Ponte dei Greci) • G4 L’Orologio Venezia – San Polo, 1777 (Riva del l’Ogio) • E3 Locanda Vivaldi – Castello, 4150/52 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4 Monaco & Grand Canal – San Marco, 1332 (Calle Vallaresso) • F5 NH Collection Palazzo Barocci –San Marco, 3878/A (Corte dell’Albero) • E4 Palace Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4680 (Calle dei Fabbri) • F4 Palazzetto Pisani Boutique Resort – San Marco, 2814 • E5 Palazzo Giovanelli – Santa Croce, 2070 (Campo San Stae) • E3

BOUTIQUE & CHARME HOTELS TOP Ai Cavalieri – Castello, 6108 (Calle Borgolocco) • F4 Ai Due Principi – Castello, 4972 (Fondamenta de l'Osmarin) • G5 Ai Reali – Castello, 5527 (Campo della Fava) • F4 Aqua Palace – Castello, 5492/a (Calle de la Malvasia) • F4 Ca Maria Adele – Dorsoduro, 111 • E5 Ca’ Nigra Lagoon Resort – Santa Croce, 927 • D3 Canal Grande – Santa Croce, 932 • D3 Dei Dragomanni – San Marco, 2711 • E5 Flora – San Marco, 2283/a • E4 La Calcina – Dorsoduro, 789 (Zattere) • D6 Moresco – Dorsoduro, 3499 (Fondamenta del Passamonte) • D4 Palazzetto Madonna – San Polo, 2902 • D4 Palazzina G – San Marco, 3247 • D4 Palazzo Abadessa – Cannaregio, 4011 (Calle Priuli) • E3 Palazzo Paruta – San Marco, 3824 • E4 Palazzo Priuli – Fondamenta de l'Osmarin, 4979 • G4 Palazzo Venart – S. Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron) • E3 CLASSIC Ad Place Venice – San Marco, 2557/A (Fondamenta della Fenice) • E5 Al Ponte Antico – Cannaregio, 5768 (Calle dell’Aseo) • F3 Antiche Figure – Santa Croce, 687 • C3 Antico Doge – Cannaregio, 5643 • F3 Arcadia – Cannaregio, 1333 (Rio Terà S. Leonardo) • D2

Bloom B&B – San Marco, 3470 • E4 Ca’ Gottardi – Cannaregio, 2283 • E3 Ca’ Pagan – San Marco, 3268 (Calle delle Carrozze) • D4 Casa Verardo – Castello, 4765 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo) • F4 Ca’ del Campo – San Marco, 511 (Campo della Guerra) • F4 Charming House – Dorsoduro, 724 (San Vio) • E5 Corte di Gabriela – San Marco, 3836 (Calle Avvocati) • E4 Le Isole – Castello, 4661 (Campo San Provolo) • G4 Locanda Ca’ del Brocchi – Dorsoduro, 470 (Rio Terà San Vio) • E5 Locanda de la Spada – San Marco, 2488/a • E5 Locanda Fiorita – San Marco, 3457/a (Campiello Novo) • E4 Novecento – San Marco, 2683 (Calle Dose) • E5 Oltre il Giardino – San Polo, 2542 • D4 Santa Chiara – Santa Croce, 548 • C3 Villa Ines – Via Lazzaro Mocenigo, 10 (Lido) • Off Map OUT OF TOWN 4 STAR & LUXURY RESIDENCES Alexander – Via Forte Marghera , 193/C – Mestre (Ve) Antony Hotel – Via Orlanda, 182 – Mestre (Ve) Antony Palace Hotel – Via E. Mattei, 26 – Marcon (Ve) Best Western Hotel Airvenice – Via G. Pascoli, 1 – Quarto d’Altino (Ve) Best Western Hotel Bologna – Via Piave, 214 – Mestre (Ve) Best Western Plus Quid Hotel Venice Airport – Via Terraglio, 15 – Mestre (Ve) Best Western Titian Inn Hotel Venice Airport – Via Orlanda, 240/244 – Tessera (Ve) Courtyard by Marriott Venice Airport – Via Triestina, 170 – Tessera (Ve) Hilton Garden Inn Venice Mestre San Giuliano – Via Orlanda, 1 – Mestre (Ve) NH Laguna Palace – Viale Ancona, 2 – Mestre (Ve) THERMAL HOTELS 5 STAR DELUXE (L) & 5 STAR Abano Grand Hotel (L) – Via Valerio Flacco, 1 - Abano Terme (Pd) Grand Hotel Trieste & Victoria – Via Pietro d’Abano, 1 – Abano Terme (Pd) Hotel Due Torri Abano – Via Pietro d’Abano, 18 – Abano Terme (Pd) Hotel Terme Miramonti – Piazza Roma, 19 – Montegrotto Terme (Pd) 4 STAR DELUXE (L) & 4 STAR Garden Terme (S) – Corso delle Terme, 7 – Montegrotto Terme (Pd) La Residence & Idrokinesis – Via Monte Ceva, 8 – Abano Terme (Pd) Venice Hotel Terme Metropole – Via Valerio Flacco, 99 – Abano Terme (Pd) ALL CAN YOU IN TH DO E CIT

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