Where Venice n 22 June 2018

Page 1

VENICE CITY GUIDE ®

JUNE 2018

EXPLORING THE SOUTHERN LAGOON

VENICE.WHEREITALIA.COM

The Way we Were Peggy Guggenheim, seventy years later

Each of the smaller islands has a history and a calling

ALL THE ALLURE OF THE REGION Several out-of-town destinations for a fun, relaxing experience

SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS



Venice June 2018 22

the guide

GIFT GUIDE

24 SHOPPING

In the beating heart of Venice, don’t miss the first standalone Jimmy Choo boutique, dedicated to women’s accessories

BAGARON C A M PA LT O

MESTRE

12

FOCUS

42 DINING

Eberhard&Co

Located in a panoramic position, the Acquerello restaurant on the island of San Clemente offers a blend of classic Italian cuisine and Venetian specialties

Casanova Museum & Experience

Parco San Giuliano

ISOLA DI TES

50 SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS

Contents 6 HOT DATES

22 GIFT GUIDE

This month's round-up of shows, art exhibitions and music.

Take advantage of your stay in Venice to enjoy this season’s latest offerings.

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Palazzo Genovese

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Palazzo Querini Stampalia

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Palazzo Pisani Gritti

Santa Maria del Giglio

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

DEL

AZZ

CALLE

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CALLE

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DE LA FAVA

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ND

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DRIO CALLE LE SCUOL

CALLE

DA

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VERO

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CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

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C. DEL

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CAMPIELLO STELLA

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Santa Maria dei Miracoli

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LE CAL

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CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

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CALLE

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DE

Teatro Malibran

CORTE DEL

MARZA RIA

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San Fantin

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CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

San Salvador

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RIO

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CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

FO GA

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CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

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DEL

CALLE

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S.Canciano

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

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Palazzo Nervi Scattolin

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CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

Palazzo Grimani

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San Silvestro

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Palazzo Loredan

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CA’

CALLE

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Ca' Rezzonico

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Giudecca Hilton

LARGA

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LE

IA

CAMPO SAN BENETO CA LLE

Palazzo Grassi San Samuele

E AI GESUA TI

FONDAMENT O BEATE GIULIANA CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO

CALLE

' VE

Palazzo Fortuny

SESTIERE DI SAN MARCO

FAL

CAMPO SAN TROVASO

LA

CARAMPANE À

Sant'Angelo

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo RAMO

Abazia della Misericordia D

R

S.Silvestro

LE

LINI

CAL LE DE

CALL

Palazzo Giustinian Persico

S. Toma' SX

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TA

C.

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TER

LE CAL

CAL

DAM

CAL LE

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LE SAMUE

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RIO

al Can

ZATTER

CHIESA

CORTE DEL TEATRO

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

MENTA

DELLA

L’AG NEL LA

Palazzo Querini-Dubois

FONDA

CALLE

DE

RIN PEST

TE

IC

EN

CAMPO APONAL

A

San Trovaso

ER

AM

RUG

SCA

Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione

SACCA

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DEL

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C.

A S. PISCIN

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San Cassiano

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CAMPO DEI FRARI

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I

IS

ND

DON SAN PER

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI

BON

TER

C.

M

FO

DE

CAMPO SAN CASSAN

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SANT

TA

E DEL CALL

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DEI ZI

O

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EN

Santa Fosca

TIOZ

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FOND

AM

CA

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LET

A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA

DE OGNISAN

NTA

CO

San Felice

LE

CAMPO SAN TOMÀ

San Barnaba

NA

SAN

CALL

O

ND

CAL

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L’ASE

TA

CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE

L

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

TRAG

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OR

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FOD

NT

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CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA

TI

S. Basilio

TE

CALL

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LE

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L

DO

DORSODURO

IO

FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN

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DE

BOL

DEI PUTI

IAN

DA SAN

C.

TRA

AST

SALIZA

DORSODURO

CAL

E C A

FO

DD

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

CAL

CALLE

SEB

CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN

San Sebastiano CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI

I

MA

Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

O

CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO

CALL

TTO

PRET

LA

CAMPO SAN STIN

Basilica dei Frari

TINT

N

E TRON

TOMÀ

ORE

INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON

SPORCAE CALLE PAZIENZ DE LE

SAN

CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL

A ENT

I

DAM

DON

CALLE SAN BASILIO

OCHE

DEL

SCOAZZERA DE LA E

LE PAZIENZ

FON

LAR

AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO

LE

E DEI

R

Santa Maria dei Carmini

C.

MEZ

LE

CALL

AM

do

S.Stae

CAL

NI

EN

TERÀ

SAN

N

CAMPO DEI CARMINI C. DE

DIA

Istituto Universitario Di Architettura

CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO

RIO

CAL

TALO

RIO TERA’

AR

LE

E

DE

E

A

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

GU

AM

Car

E OCH LE

CALLE DELL'OLIO

LLE

Angelo Raffaele

O

CAL

LAC

CANAL RIO TERA’

CA

ND

del

CALLE ORSETTI

CALL

San Rocco

Mu

CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA

min

I

Rio

ND

Ma

San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale

CALL

CAMPO SAN BOLDO TOR

N

le

PAN

SSA

RIELO

LORENZ

LA TT

CAMPO SAN PANTALON

RO

FO

C. SAN

OLO

LA

San Pantalon

O

I

NTA

RE

CALLE CASE NUOVE

LE

IAT

LE

TIN

de

A SAN

NUOVO

USE

L' ARZE

NIC SAN

San Nicolò dei Mendicoli

CAL

BR

DE LA VIDA

CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO

C.VE

LA

Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

San Giacomo dall'Orio CAL

NZAT

DE

À D E

SA

CAMPO SAN ROCCO IZAD

CALLE

i

TA

RAMO

FON

N

tini

RIO

CALLE CONTARINA

ME

TA DE

AMEN

MATTA DI CA’

DE

LA

IA ESI

ete

SAL

Rio dei Tolen MENTA

CALLE CAZZA

CALLE SAVIO

RUGA BELA

O

TER

La Maddalena

L’ISOLA

DEL

I

I

DA

AMEN

FOND

CAMPIELLO LONGHI

LE

DE

CIM

CALL

FONDA

DE

LE

CH

CERER

DE L’OGIO

TA

O

BASEG

TERA’

CAL

AS

DEI

DEI FONTEGH

CALLE

EN

TI

CALLE DE LA LACA

C.

DAR O

gh

OTT

en

CALLE

RAG

FOND

Ba

NE

Ma

CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

I

ZO

RAM

CIM

ne

ENT A MIN

Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola

I

EO

CAL

PAZ CAM

LE CAL

ESI

Del

FO

lla

ETTI MOR

SIM

MENTA

FON

FONDA

ERI CALLE

L

BAR

N

MADON

LA

NA

OT

FO de Serv N.D AN i IEL

R

CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA

A

Rio

DAM

o de

LE CAL

SA LUN

LE

DE

A A MART SANT

CA

E

IO

CAMPO NAZARIO SAURO

DEI

A OV

GA

NU LA

O

Rio

DIETRRIO TERÀ O LA CHIE

San Marcuola

RUGA VECCHIA

RZ

AM

E DEL PISTO

RIO

DEL REMER

LAR

LLE

A

DE

CAL

A

CALLE

TA

RT

ND

FO

Rio

CALL

CAMPIELLO

C.

NG

PO

a

EONARDO

San Leonardo

BIAS

DI

BAR

TA

LIS

FO

AM

E

LA

TA PROC

URATI

CAZZIO

TA RIZZI

A RIVA

VE

DEI AMAI

gaz

MENTA

AMEN

CO

RAM

FONDA

FOND

E NUO

CAM

FON

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AMEN

CAS

ENT

Palazzo FO Soranzo NDAMEN Capello TA GA

San Nicola da Tolentino

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FOND

RTE

Miser

icordi

SAN LEONARDO

San Simeone Profeta

LU

RG

I

EA

CHI

PENS

BE

HI

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Where® brings you a round-up of Michelin-starred restaurants for true connoisseurs of taste!

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18 ALL THE ALLURE

Information and tips to experience the best that Venice has to offer

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STAY IN TOUCH

The city's passion for antiques is embedded within its soul.

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© Fondazione Solomon R. Guggenheim, foto Archivio CameraphotoEpoche, donazione Cassa di Risparmio di Venezia, 2005.

Summer is the best time to visit the islands surrounding Venice. Each has a different character starting from the famed Lido.

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Peggy Guggenheim with Alexander Calder “Arc of Petals” at the Greek Pavilion, 24th Venice Biennale, 1948.

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SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS

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Several out-of-town destinations for a fun, relaxing experience

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Peggy Guggenheim, seventy years later

Each of the smaller islands has a history and a calling

Rekinde the romance of train travel through M U R Europe and take a trip on the Venice-Simplon Orient-Expresst

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Two hundred and twenty years after his death, a new Museum has been dedicated to Giacomo Casanova

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STREET RULES Many ‘calli’ (streets) in Venice are narrow. Keep to the right and avoid loitering. Make sure to take quick ‘clicks’ on Venice’s bridges especially when they’re crowded.

03

ACQUA ALTA In the event of ‘acqua alta’ (flooding), use the raised walkways provided. Keep to the right and don’t hang around. Don’t step into the water, because it’s dirty.

OBSTRUCTING PUBLIC TRANSPORT

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When travelling on public transport, please respect the other passengers: avoid blocking the entrance or exit, store your bags where the boat staff tells you and remove your backpacks.

BIKES AND OTHERS MEANS OF TRANSPORTATION

05

EATING Apart from restaurants, picknicking is forbidden in the area around St. Mark’s Basilica. Website www.where-venice.com features a list of the best restaurants and ‘bacari’ where you can sample delectable Mediterranean cuisine. Please Note: it’s not done to eat ‘gelato’ before lunch and cappuccino is a ‘no no’ in the afternoon.

It is forbidden to walk around Venice in a bathing costume or bare-chested. Swimming in Venice’s canals is prohibited. The Lido is the go-to place for bathing. Venice is an elegant ‘grand dame’ and a certain dress code is ‘de rigueur’.

In Venice, adults are prohibited from riding bikes or using or carrying kick scooters. Use the parking lots located at the entrance to the city.

VENETIAN SOUVENIR In the midst of its myriad offerings, always make sure to purchase authentic Venetian goods. These include Murano beads, local biscuits, artisanal prints and masks. By purchasing items from local artisans, you’re supporting the Venetian craft industry.

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IfIf being your way way of of life, life, an an instinctive instinctivemindset, mindset,being being being aa tourist tourist is is your aa tourist is aa privilege privilege and and an anart. art.The Theglorious glorioushistory historyofof tourist in in Venice Venice is the Serenissima left stunning examples of architecture throughout the Serenissima left stunning examples of architecture throughout the rich cultural cultural heritage. heritage.This Thisheritage heritage the city, city, handing down a rich encompasses of small small yet yet fundamental fundamentaldecrees. decrees.Venice Venice encompasses a number of isis an and deserves deservesto tobe betreated treatedwith withrespect respect an ‘elegant ‘elegant grand dame’ and by obeying the protocols of good behaviour. Where® Venice has by obeying of good behaviour. Where® Venice has drawn handbook of of‘do’s ‘do’s and and‘don’ts’ ‘don’ts’to toensure ensurethat that drawn up up a small handbook visitors fully enjoy enjoy the thecity citywhile whilehonouring honouringitsits visitors have have a chance to fully people, monuments monuments and local people, local traditions. traditions. w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com  3

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[ SIGHTSEEING]

PHOTOS © SHUTTERSTOCK

Top in town

Ponte dei Sospiri

BASILICA DI SAN MARCO This is the most important Catholic church in the city, and one of the most important monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1000; inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. Map F4 

CANAL GRANDE Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the main waterway of Venice. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. 

PONTE DEI SOSPIRI A Baroque bridge that once connected Palazzo Ducale to the prisons. The Bridge of Sighs is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. It can be accessed when visiting Palazzo Ducale. Map F4 

SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO The external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell of Palazzo Contarini - an exquisite, late Gothic building - is enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can

4  W H E R E V E N I C E I J U N E 2018

be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. Map E4  TEATRO LA FENICE Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries La Fenice theatre has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. Map E5  CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE DI SAN ROCCO A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as


MORE AT PAGE 50 MAP PAGES 62-63

Canal Grande

Palazzo Ducale

PHOTO © MICHELE CROSERA

PALAZZO DUCALE A masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, it features a number of different and intricate architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it is superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. Map F4 

PHOTO LUIGI FARDELLA © SHUTTERSTOCK

a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. Its interiors are filled with numerous treasures. Map D4 

Teatro La Fenice

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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES

CONTEMPORARY ART

8 16 APRIL

DECEMBER

WHEN ARTISTS TALK ABOUT THEMSELVES The collective exhibition ‘Dancing with Myself’ curated by Martin Bethenod and Florian Ebner, stems from a collaboration between the Pinault Collection and the Folkwang Museum in Essen. The exhibition at Punta della Dogana aims to explore the examination of self in artistic production between the 1970s and the present time. Photographs, videos, paintings, sculptures and installations, from diverse cultures and generations, describe the artists’ melancholia and humour, amidst political identities and existential reflections. Dancing with Myself Punta della Dogana www.palazzograssi.it

In the background: Urs Fischer, Untitled (2001). Self portrait made from melting wax, depicting the artist’s slow disappearance. Avoiding any glorification of self, Urs Fischer’s art explores how we experience time and memory. Photo © De Fina.

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JUNE

JUNE

HOT DATES Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating Italian traditions, art and music or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates.

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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES

JUNE

GLASS ART

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A NEW YORK COLLECTION IN MURANO

► In 2017, well-known New York art dealer Barry Friedman, highly regarded as an influential connoisseur and knowledgeable professional, APRIL AUGUST donated an extraordinary collection of 20th century Murano glass to the Venetian Heritage-New York. These works are now on permanent view at the Murano Glass Museum. Comprising more than 170 pieces by Bianconi, Buzzi, Nason, Poli, Scarpa and Zecchin, and created at the most important and historic glass factories in Murano including Seguso, Barovier and Toso, Cenedese, Salviati and Venini, this generous donation has allowed the Murano-based museum to significantly expand its 20th century collection.

The Barry Friedman Venetian Heritage Collection Murano, Glass Museum museovetro.visitmuve.it

Barovier artists (Murano, 1930).

BIENNALE

25 25

PEGGY’S FIRST BIENNALE

◄ In 1948, Peggy Guggenheim was invited to exhibit her already legendary art collection at the 24th Art Biennale in Venice. It was a landmark event and the first-ever showing of MAY NOVEMBER Peggy’s collection in Europe. This event brought the works of numerous international artists, almost unknown at that time, to the Lagoon city. 2018 marks the 70th anniversary of the exhibition of Peggy Guggenheim’s collection in the Greek Pavilion at the renowned Venice Biennale. The layout of the pavilion, designed by Carlo Scarpa, an eminent architect of the time, has been recreated today in the Project Rooms.

1948: Peggy Guggenheim’s Biennale Peggy Guggenheim Collection- Projects Rooms www.guggenheim-venice.it Peggy Guggenheim on the steps of the Greek Pavillion, where she exhibited her collection, 24th Venice Biennale, with “Interior” (1945, unknown location) by her daughter Pegeen Vail; 1948. © Fondazione Solomon R. Guggenheim, foto Archivio CameraphotoEpoche, donazione Cassa di Risparmio di Venezia, 2005.

SAVE THE DATE MAY >> BIENNALE ARCHITETTURA 2018 Yvonne Farrell and Shelley McNamara are the curators of the 16th International Architecture Exhibition, that takes place from 26 May to 25 November in the Giardini and the Arsenale, and around other venues in Venice. The Biennale Architettura 2018 is titled ‘Freespace’, a word that describes a generosity of spirit and a sense of humanity at the core of architecture's agenda, focusing on the quality of space itself. With this theme the Biennale will offer the public examples, proposals and elements - built or unbuilt - of work exemplifying the essential qualities of architecture, including the modulation, richness and materiality of surface, and the orchestration and sequencing of movement, revealing the embodied power and beauty of architecture. 16th International Architecture Exhibition Giardini and Arsenale. www.labiennale.org 8  W H E R E V E N I C E I J U N E 2018


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A GENTLEMAN ALWAYS HAS A POSITIVE ATTITUDE. - Rule 19 -

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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES OUT OF TOWN

30

MERGING SHOPPING WITH MUSIC

◄ Not far from Venice, the McArthurglen outlet of Noventa di Piave offers much more than just JUNE shopping. In addition to enjoying a day browsing its fabulous array of designer boutiques, on Saturday 30 June the outlet will offer visitors the chance to experience a unique event. A concert of classical music performed by the musicians of Venice’s prestigious La Fenice theatre. Thirty opera singers, accompanied by a pianist, will take turns to perform famous pieces from musicals and films, including Singing in the Rain, Moon River, Night and Day, Jesus Christ SuperStar, Memory, Over the Rainbow and Aquarius. An absolute must!

... e adesso MUSICAL !!!! 30 June, 7.30pm Noventa di Piave Designer Outlet. Via Marco Polo, 1 Noventa di Piave (VE) www.mcarthurglen.it/noventadipiave

ANNUAL EVENTS IN VENICE JUNE/JULY Feast of San Piero de Casteo (24 June-1 July) Festa del Redentore / Feast of the Redeemer (14-15 July) One of Venice’s best loved festivals, the event features a parade of boats in the Giudecca and fireworks. AUGUST/SEPTEMBER International Exhibition of Cinematographic Art (29 August-8 September) > 75th Venice Film Festival organized by La Biennale di Venezia. SEPTEMBER Regata Storica / Historic Regatta (2 September) One of Venice’s foremost rowing competitions. The Venice Glass Week (9-16 September) An international festival dedicated to the art of glass-making, with a focus on creations made in Murano. OCTOBER Venice Fashion Week (20-27 October) Venicemarathon (28 October) 10  W H E R E V E N I C E I J U N E 2018

NOVEMBER Teatro La Fenice - Concert Season Opening (First week of November )

APRIL Venice Fashion Spring (13-14 April)

Festa della Salute (21 November) > A popular religious feast day.

Venice Night Trial (14 April) > Urban trail run 16 km through t +he historical centre of Venice.

Teatro La Fenice - Opera and Ballet Season Opening (End of November) DECEMBER Christmas Concert at St. Mark’s basilica (17-18 December) > Organized by Teatro La Fenice with the Cappella Marciana Soloists. New Year’s Eve Concert-Teatro La Fenice (29-30-31 December)

> 2019 < JANUARY New Year’s Eve Concert-Teatro La Fenice (1 January) Regata delle Befane (6 January) > A costumed race between members of the Bucintoro, the oldest rowing company in Venice. FEBRUARY/MARCH Carnival of Venice (16 February5 March 2019) > Shows, masked parades and music in ‘calli’, squares and palaces.

Festa di San Marco/Feast of St. Mark (25 April) > In addition to being a national holiday, on 25 April Venetians also celebrate Saint Mark’s day. MAY Biennale Arte 2019 11 May-24 November (preview 8-9-10 May), Arsenale and Giardini > The 58th International Art Exhibition is organized by La Biennale di Venezia and curated by Ralph Rugoff Festa della Sensa or Ascension festivity (11-12 May) > A masked parade in St. Mark’s Square to celebrate the Serenissima and the ‘Sposalizio del Mare’ (Marriage of the Sea) ceremony Vogalonga (19 May) > 44th edition of the 30 km rowing marathon from the Northern lagoon to the islands: a colourful event open to both professionals and amateurs.


www.potpourri.it San Marco, Venezia Palazzo Regina Vittoria Fashion Ramo dei Fuseri 1810-1811/m Tel. +39 041 5221332 Home Frezzeria 1820/m Tel. +39 041 5201996

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lthough you might be tempted to spend your entire stay in Venice, treat yourself and visit some of the other magnificent islands. Each has a different character, and although the best means of transport is a private boat, you can also enjoy their beauty by using public transport. If you’d like to visit several islands during the course of the day, we recommend purchasing a 24-hour public transport pass. The pass costs €20 and guarantees unlimited travel on water buses. THE LIDO, A PARADISE OF NATURE AND CELEBRITIES One of the best-known islands of the Venetian lagoon is the Lido, meaning ‘beach’ in Italian. Measuring less than 200 metres in width in certain areas, the Lido is a 12km stretch of sand, strategically positioned between the Lagoon and the open sea, and is only connected to the city and dry land by ‘vaporetti’ or ferry boats. The part overlooking St. Mark’s faces onto the lagoon, while its beaches are located just a short walk from the vaporetto station towards the east. Unlike Venice, the Lido has streets which means that you can get around by car. In the early 20th century, Rolls Royce’s, Cadillac’s and Bentleys abounded at the entrances of grand hotels. Although the island, especially in the Malamocco area, was inhabited from the beginning of Venice’s history, the Lido became famous at the beginning of the 20th century as a holiday resort for wealthy Northern Europeans searching for a place to soak up the Mediterranean sun. It was here that Thomas Mann set his famous novel ‘Death in Venice’. The book tells the story of Professor Gustav von Aschenbach’s stay at the Hotel Des Bains on the Lido and his encounter with a beautiful Polish boy named Tazio with whom he fell in love. In order to discover the island’s numerous attractions, hire a bike from Lido On Bike (viale Santa Maria Elisabetta, 21b). The Italian

Exploring the southern lagoon

Unmistakably Venetian in feel, yet cosmopolitan enough to impress an international jet-setting clientele, the Hotel Excelsior opened in July 1908. Over the years, notable guests have included Winston Churchill, the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, Marlene Dietrich, Barbara Hutton, John Steinbeck, Ingrid Bergman and the Aga Khan. In 1932, it was catapulted into the magical world of movies when the first-ever Venice Film Festival was held on its terrace.

Summer is the best time to visit the islands surrounding Venice. Not only the traditional tourist destinations of Murano, Burano and Torcello, but those located in the southern area of the lagoon. BY ROMENA BRUGNEROTTO

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WHERE NOW | FOCUS

Hotel Ausonia & Hungaria

Circolo Golf Venezia

Strongholds, fishermen’s villages, the headquarters of silent monasteries, retreats for the sick or burial grounds. Each of the lagoon’s smaller islands – whether covered with fertile vegetable gardens or home to glass and lace-making ateliers – has a specific history and calling. They are called ‘native’ islands because they were the cradle of Venetian civilization.

San Servolo

Art Nouveau villas located on the island are definitely worth a visit. Although many of them have been modified and restored over the years, their charm has remained intact. The villa housing the Hotel Ausonia & Hungaria, renowned for its majolica façade and its asymmetrical terrace, and Villa Bianca in via Zeno, a palatial building richly decorated with Neo-gothic elements, are two of the most interesting. If you want to stop for an ice cream or even a quick meal or snack, head to Bar Maleti (Gran Viale, 45). When it comes to lunch, you’ll be 14  W H E R E V E N I C E I J U N E 2018

spoilt for choice. The go-to address for those in search of a traditional fish-based menu is La Favorita (Via F. Duodo, 33), while for a quick lunch you can select from the Buddha Soul&Restò which serves delicious VenetoIndian and vegetarian food (Gran Viale, 28/B) or the quick dishes and pizzas found at Ai Do Mati (Gran Viale, 49), Parco delle Rose (which has a lovely garden) or the charming Roxi Bar. For a lunch or dinner with a great waterfront view, we recommend Villa Laguna, located directly in front of the basin of San Marco. In summer, the island is packed with Venetians

who rent small bathing huts to store everything they need at the beach. Although you can choose from among an array of bathing resorts, a must-try experience is renting a hut or ‘tucul’ at the prestigious Hotel Des Bains (although the hotel is currently closed for restoration work, the beach is beautiful and accessible). For years, the Lido beach, which is also particularly childfriendly due to its shallow waters, has boasted ‘blue flag’ status, in recognition of its clean waters and top-level facilities. At the end of summer, the oldest film festival in the world turns the sleepy Lido into a mini


Dopolavoro

Hollywood. The festival revolves around the Palazzo del Cinema and the Hotel Excelsior to which actors, directors, producers, journalists and celebrities from all over the world, flock. Hollywood stars and lesser known faces on the European or Asian film scene come to walk the red carpet, attend exclusive parties, be interviewed or simply mingle with the crowds. In addition to the promenade, landing stops and, naturally, the Palazzo del Cinema, all classic celeb-spotting locations include the Lido’s historic hotels. The Excelsior which hosted the very first festival in 1932 is first and foremost. The most sought-after award at the Venice Film Festival is the Leone d’Oro and their recipients often receive other important awards during the course of the year: it appears that the Leone d’Oro brings good luck. Another different and emotional experience is a visit to the Jewish cemetery, one of the oldest Jewish cemeteries in the world (the Jewish Museum of Venice can also be visited on request). The cemetery dates back to 1386 with tombstones and monuments dated between 500A.D. and 700 A.D. The cemetery is of enormous historic and artistic interest and appealed greatly to romantic luminaries such as Goethe, Byron and Shelley. The Oasis of Alberoni, an area recognized and protected by the WWF since 1997, is a nature reserve located on the south end of the Lido. The area comprises 160 hectares of terrain, including two kilometers of golden, sandy dunes that stretch from the Murazzi to the Alberoni dam, and a magnificent pine

San Lazzaro degli Armeni, an oasis of spirituality Take a private boat or Vaporetto number 20 from San Marco to reach the island of San Lazzaro degli Armeni. Every day at 3.30pm, a guided tour takes visitors on a tour of discovery of this old-world island, an authentic oasis of peace and spirituality. The island is home to a monastery of Armenian monks of the Mekhitaristi order who arrived here in 1717. Prior to their arrival, a Benedictine community inhabited the monastery. The monastery boasts an impressive collection of rare manuscripts and works of art donated by worshippers. Even Napoleon, no friend to monasteries, was impressed, and in 1797 designated San Lazzaro an Academic Institution, saving it from destruction. A truly unique trip back in time.

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WHERE NOW | FOCUS

THE SMALLER ISLANDS While navigating the southern lagoon you might discover several islands that though now abandoned were once used for specific purposes: La Grazia, a retreat for pilgrims travelling to the east and subsequently a hospital for infectious diseases, the island of Lazzaretto Vecchio which was established

Pellestrina 16  W H E R E V E N I C E I J U N E 2018

to host plague-stricken patients and later used as a military base, and the island of Poveglia. The latter was formerly a thriving centre thanks to its strategic location between Venice and the Lido and is now a ‘forbidden’ island with a dark, twisted past, that has the reputation of one of the world’s most haunted islands. Other islands have now been converted for different purposes, for example, in addition to being an important congress centre, the Island of San Servolo, formerly the site of an asylum for the insane, also houses the ‘Museum of Madness’. FIVE STAR GUESTS The island of San Clemente houses the San Clemente Palace Kempinski: a hotel chosen primarily by those in search of peace and privacy. This palatial island property features 190 rooms and suites, a swimming pool (a rare commodity in Venice) and an exclusive luxury spa. The spa, owned by well-known luxury brand The Merchant of Venice, offers customized treatments and a private spa suite that can be booked for those looking for a romantic escape. The island of Sacca Sessola is home to the Hotel JW Marriott Venice. The hotel, which opened a few years ago, is a sought-after destination. In addition to its stunning rooms, it boasts a beautiful panoramic terrace (also open to visitors who are not staying at the hotel) with an infinity pool, a spa with a view over San Marco and the Dopolavoro restaurant which earned a Michelin star just six months after it opened. PELLESTRINA, THE HIDDEN JEWEL OF THE LAGOON To complete your tour of this part of the

lagoon, an absolute must is a visit to the island of Pellestrina, which can be accessed from the Lido by ferry boat. The best way of getting around here is also by bike (you can use the one rented on the Lido). This island is renowned for its ancient history. In addition to defending itself from invasions, the island had to deal with the dangers of the sea. The Murazzi, the sea walls visible on the beach, are an important means of protecting its inhabitants from the tides and storms of the Adriatic. All of the island’s villages are strung out along the water’s edge on the lagoon side with tiny cottages painted in a kaleidoscope of colours, and scores of fishing boats moored on the wharf. Two main streets run parallel: one nearer the sea and the other skirting the lagoon, while the island’s ‘calli’, ‘campielli’ and ‘corti’ are the centres of village life. The first village that visitors arriving from the Lido will see is Santa Maria del Mare where you can visit the imposing Fort of San Pietro - and then San Pietro in Volta. We recommend two addresses for lovers of good cuisine: Agriturismo alle Valli renowned for its beautiful courtyard, view and incredibly fresh fish and Da Nane al Canton in San Pietro which offers delicious local fare in a simple but welcoming ambience (its ‘pasticcio di pesce’ is famous throughout the region). If you’re looking for something a little more sophisticated, make your way to Da Celeste, one of the best seafood restaurants in Venice. Find a table on the wooden terrace, which has sweeping views of the lagoon, and order the delectable mussel soup. Continuing our tour we find Portosecco and, on the southern side of the island, the nature reserve of Ca’ Roman: a protected oasis for flora and fauna of white sandy beaches, dunes and pinewoods. The area is a nature lovers’ paradise, far removed from the hustle and bustle of tourist-invaded Venice. To end your day’s exploration on a high note, stop and watch the sun setting over the lagoon while enjoying a welcome aperitivo at Bar Gelateria Laguna. We guarantee an unforgettable experience.

Murazzi, Pellestrina

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forest. Among other attractions, the area is home to Alberoni's Circolo Golf Venezia, a beautifully landscaped links course built in 1928 set against a stunning backdrop of umbrella pines and poplars. Henry Ford, founder of the famous automotive house and an avid fan of Venice, commissioned the course in 1926, when he discovered to his disappointment that there was nowhere for him to play golf, a sport widely practiced in America, but not in Italy at that time. While in the area, make sure to visit Malamocco, a small, ancient town offering visitors a mini experience of Venice with its canals, ‘campielli’ and ancient buildings. The town bar is crowded with elderly men gossiping or playing cards, and gives visitors the impression of being in a time warp. Those wishing to enjoy an unforgettable seafood experience should head to the Trattoria Al Ponte di Borgo (Calle Merceria, 27). Continuing our visit towards Alberoni, the island becomes increasingly wild and the dunes of the public beach take centre stage. Also dating back to bygone times in a more northerly direction, is the settlement of San Nicolò, that features a Benedictine complex built in the 11th century. Located in a strategic position, San Nicolò is situated at the juncture where the lagoon enters the open sea.


WHERE NOW | TIPS

Great for kids Are you wondering how to keep your kids entertained during your stay in Venice? Where has prepared a pick of attractions that will keep them entertained in summer. B Y R O M E N A

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BRUGNEROTTO 1) Go to the seaside. Take a 15-minute vaporetto ride from San Marco and head to the beach of the Lido which is packed with children in summer. Rent deckchairs and an umbrella from one of the beach resorts on the beach and enjoy the day. A long stretch of the sea is shallow and therefore suitable for toddlers and younger children. 2) Do your kids enjoy biking? Although cycling is banned in Venice, you can pedal amidst paths lined with vegetable gardens and vineyards on the Islands of Sant’Erasmo and the Lido, where you can ride as far as Malamocco. 3) Children aged eight and upwards can explore a different side of Venice while paddling on a kayak through the canals (www.venicekayak.it). The kayak experience begins on the Island of Certosa, a beautiful Marine Resort and the city’s public park, where amidst boats small and large, you will encounter goats and hares wandering undisturbed around the island. 4) How about a short gondola ride? The Grand Canal is lined with stations (stazi) where you can hop on a gondola. For just €2 you can ask the gondolier to ferry you to the other side of the canal. One of these stations is located right at the Rialto Fish Market whose stalls are well worth a visit. 5) With so much to see and do you’re likely to be in need of a break and a place to cool off. Just steps from St. Mark’s Square at Ca’ Giustinian (the headquarters of the fringe events of the Venice Biennale) there’s a children’s space equipped with toys where children can stay and play for as long as they want. Just a few steps away, you’ll find a café where you can indulge in a coffee break while keeping an eye on your young ones. 6) What about a family-friendly sightseeing tour of Venice for children? Macaco Tour offers several options designed for children aged 4 and upwards. Our favourite? The ‘Lion Hunt’. The hunt for lions – the symbol of Venice – is

enhanced with tales and legends about the history of the city. (www.macacotour.com). 7) If you’re fond of animals, make sure to take a photo with the marble lions standing at the entrance to the Arsenale. They’re all different, they come from far-off places and each one has an interesting story to tell. If you and your family happen to find yourselves near St. Mark’s Basilica, look for a pair of 18th century red marble lions that give the Piazzetta dei Leoni its name. While there, make sure to take a photo that will remind you of your unforgettable stay in Venice. 8) Summer would not be summer without ice cream and Venice boasts an array of fabulous ‘gelaterie’. One of the best-known is Nico on the Zattere in the Dorsoduro district. Their specialty is gianduiotto with whipped cream, a ‘must-try’ that will appeal to old and young alike. 9) Enjoy a scenic cruise from Venice to Padua while seated comfortably on an air-conditioned boat. Relax and admire the views as you float past several stunning Venetian villas. 10) In summer, an absolute must is a visit to the picturesque town of Burano, with its coloured houses. Don’t forget your camera. Colours, smiles and the delicious biscuits produced on the island will make a perfect gift for friends and family at home – on condition that you don’t eat them before leaving!

Macaco Tour

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WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN

All the allure of the region Veneto is one of the most visited regions in Europe and offers several attractive destinations for a fun, relaxing out-of-town experience. The cities are well connected by train but as an alternative you can either hire a car or a car with a driver. BY ROMENA BRUGNEROTTO

Half an hour by train from Venice Treviso: the city is a small gem, which can be visited entirely on foot. Lying at the heart of the city, just a stone’s throw from the station, Piazza dei Signori is the ideal spot to stop and enjoy either a local Proseccobased aperitivo, or a light lunch. The area’s neighbouring streets are packed with elegant shops, cut across by pretty canals offering lots of fabulous photo opportunities. Both the city’s Casa dei Carraresi and the Santa Caterina museum host important art exhibitions. While in the area, make sure to sample radicchio di Treviso, a homegrown specialty. A go-to destination for a snack is the Osteria dalla Gigia, Via Barberia, 20, whose signature dish is ‘mozzarelle in carrozza’, a type of fried cheese sandwich. Padua: home to one of the oldest universities in the world, Padua is a city deserving an entire day’s sightseeing. Among the list of things to do, top sights include the Scrovegni Chapel, Giotto’s masterpiece, but also the famous Church of Sant’Antonio, a pilgrimage site and the burial place of St Anthony of Padua (1193–1231). The city is also home to the oldest botanical garden in the world, planted in 1545 by Padua’s

Vicenza, Teatro Olimpico

Padua, Scrovegni Chapel 18  W H E R E V E N I C E I J U N E 2018

A UNIQUE BLEND OF HISTORY AND ART Top. One of Vicenza’s artistic marvels, the Teatro Olimpico is included in UNESCO’s list of World Heritage Sites. Left, Giotto’s magnificent frescoes, narrating events in the lives of the Virgin Mary and Christ, cover the walls of the Scrovegni Chapel (Padua). Above, Piazza delle Erbe in Verona was the town's forum during the time of the Roman Empire. Right, the beautiful castle of Miramare (10 km from Trieste) offers a charming panoramic view.

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Verona, Piazza delle Erbe


University medical faculty to study the medicinal properties of rare plants. A new area dedicated to bio-diversity was also recently added, opening up new prospects for the future. In terms of gastronomy, local specialties include a variety of cold cuts and the city’s signature ‘gallina padovana’ which you can taste at the Ai Navigli restaurant in Via Riviera Tiso, 11. La Folperia in Piazza della Frutta is an absolute must for an aperitivo. It’s a simple kiosk selling local fish specialties and the king of street food par excellence. One hour by train from Venice Vicenza: if you’re a fan of Renaissance architecture, take a train and head to Vicenza. Its main square houses the famous basilica designed by Andrea Palladio, the most important architect of the High Renaissance. The entire life of the city revolves around the Basilica. Palladio also designed the city’s renowned Teatro Olimpico. This Renaissance marvel is well worth a visit or, failing that, a ticket to one of the many live shows performed here. Stop at a restaurant and sample the city’s famous ‘Baccalà alla Vicentina’ (Vicenza-style codfish) served with polenta. The people of Vicenza are so proud of this dish that the city even has a confraternity dedicated to keeping the 500-year-old recipe of ‘Baccalà alla Vicentina’ alive, and, believe it or not, there is also a codfish ice cream flavour. The go-to address is El Coq in Piazza dei Signori, where the chef enjoys creating innovative dishes using this important ingredient of Veneto cuisine.

TOWARDS VIENNA WITH THE NEW “SPIRIT OF VENICE” While air travel to North America has increased (in May 2017 American Airlines inaugurated a direct route from Venice to Chicago), rail travel to Europe has also grown. One of the best ways to enjoy spectacular panoramic Alpine views is by train. For the past few months it’s been possible to travel from Venice to Austria by train with two daily connections, thanks to OBB, an Austrian railway company. The new Railjet “The Spirit of Venice” connects Venice to the Austrian cities of Villach, Klagenfurt and Vienna safely and comfortably. Amenities include on board Wi-Fi, and there's a top notch dining car for first class passengers. The trip to Vienna lasts eight hours and you can enjoy the changing scenery from the Italian plains to the Austrian Alps. www.obb-italia.com

Trieste, Castle of Miramare Verona: Founded by the Romans in the 1st century AD, the city of Verona is dotted with pretty palazzi, elegant squares and medieval gems. Best-known as home to star-crossed lovers Romeo and Juliet, its major attractions include the Arena, an architectural remnant of the Roman era, and a venue for the city’s annual summer opera festival, the beautiful Castelvecchio Museum and piazza delle Erbe. There are so many churches to see that you’ll be spoilt for choice. No visit would be complete without stopping to see San Zeno, a masterpiece of Italian Romanesque style. When you’re tired of sightseeing, indulge in a break at one of the city’s small ‘osterie’ for a glass of Valpolicella, the famous wine produced just a short distance from here. Before leaving Verona, make sure to head to pasticceria Flego in Piazza Borsari 9, to purchase a box of ‘Baci di Giulietta’, the city’s signature sweet treats made from almonds and walnuts. Bassano del Grappa: this picturesque town lying at the foot of the mountains is renowned for its namesake spirit, grappa. Its Palladian covered wooden bridge over the River Brenta is a highlight of the small historic centre. Also known at the Ponte Vecchio or the Ponte Alpini, it serves as a reminder of the events that took place during World War I. The city is also famous for its centuries-old production of handcrafted ceramics that you can purchase at one of the town’s many shops. While in the area, make sure to book a guided tour of one of the distilleries that produce grappa, Italy’s ‘acquavite’ of choice. One of the most famous is Poli. Located in via Gamba 6, this renowned distillery also boasts a must-visit Grappa Museum. At the end of the tour, guests will be treated to a tasting session, accompanied by sweet or savoury snacks. Opened in

December 2010, and located at number 8 Salita Ferracina, Palazzo delle Misture is the ideal spot for a pre or post-dinner drink. In addition to an excellent selection of local wines, the venue also features an entire room dedicated to absinth, where you can taste historical brands dating from the late 1800s to the early 1900s. Two hours by train from Venice Trieste: just a two-hour train ride from Venice, the city of Trieste is a must-visit destination. The port and its architecture, reminiscent of central European cities, blend to create an elegant, captivating backdrop. When visiting Trieste you can remain in the centre and stroll through its picturesque alleys, or head to Miramare, the beautiful castle built in the late 1850s by Archiduke Maximilian, brother of Austrian Emperor Franz Joseph. Sitting on a rocky outcrop overlooking the sea, both the castle – whose interior décor has remained intact – and the park are well worth a visit. A ride on the Opicina tram which connects the centre of Trieste with the village of Villa Opicina in the hills above is definitely unmissable. Inaugurated in 1902, the 'tram de Opicina' (as it’s known in the local dialect) climbs up five kilometers, including 800 meters on a 26% incline, across splendid landscapes and with wonderful views of the gulf. This is a unique opportunity to take some wonderful photos. Trieste is the Mediterranean's main coffee port, and it's also a hub for the coffee industry. In fact, the city is home to Illy, one of the world’s best-known coffee brands. Countless locales bear witness to the city’s history, and, if you head to Piazza Unità d’Italia you can choose your favourite. The best place for an aperitivo is Urbanis, in Piazza della Borsa 15. In addition to other symbols, the venue’s mosaic flooring features the Bora, the wind that blows over Trieste. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com  19


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when crossing it and because the city’s mint was located at its easternmost end. In 1250, its wooden piles were replaced by a mobile structure and its name was changed to the Rialto bridge. A dark period followed. In fact, during this time, the bridge collapsed and was damaged several times. It was only in 1588 that the Senate of the Serenissima decided to announce a competition to finally rebuild a stone bridge. Numerous renowned architects submitted their projects, including Sansovino, Vignola and Palladio. However the daring but scenically impact-making design submitted by the aptly named Antonio da Ponte was chosen. His bridge consisted of a single 22 meter stone arch span, supported by a broad rectangular deck carrying two arcades of shops and ‘botteghe’ fronting on three roadways. Legend has it that da Ponte was visited by Satan himself who, in exchange for his help, asked the architect to pledge the soul of the first person crossing the bridge to him. The architect thought that he would trick Satan by having a cock cross the bridge for the first time. However, on learning about this deception, Satan vindicated himself by tricking da Ponte’s pregnant wife into crossing the bridge. Her child was stillborn, and according to legend, its soul wandered haplessly, for years, on the Rialto bridge, until a gondolier finally helped it to cross over to the other side.

Even the famous street market boasts a storied past. In fact, historic documents testify to its presence way back in 1097 when it was much larger than its current counterpart and sold exotic goods and spices and precious fabrics. THE FAMOUS MARKET. Currently Venice’s market par excellence, it is divided into the Pescaria, where fish caught in the lagoon are sold, and the Erbaria, whose vendors sell only the freshest, seasonal fruit and vegetables. Although a visit to this market means elbowing one’s way among throngs of Venetian shoppers, the market nevertheless boasts two gems of historic and artistic interest: a loggia dating back to 1907 featuring a blaze of maritime and symbolic decorations, including a number of esoteric elements that are mixed in with the fish, lobsters and octopi sculpted on the capitals of its colonnade. More attentive visitors will also notice a marble plaque embedded in one of its red brick facades,

which shows regulations set centuries ago for minimum allowable sizes for lagoon fish. FOR SHOPPING ADDICTS. However, Rialto also means shopping. While strolling through the ‘rione’s’ tiny streets or when crossing its bridge, you’ll come across several unusual shops that are imbued with the atmosphere of a bygone era. These include antique shops, artisans’ workshops, old book binding shops where books are still bound according to time-honoured tradition, and jewelry stores selling original creations made from Murano glass beads. On the other hand, those in search of an amazing experience, should head to the old post office which now houses the T Fondaco dei Tedeschi, a lavish, highend department store and a magnificent feat of architecture that has been updated to brilliantly balance the old with new. The building boasts a marvelous terrace offering visitors a 360-degree view over Venice.

A HUB OF COMMERCE The Rialto Bridge is the dividing line between the districts of San Marco and San Polo. It is lined on both sides by shops, and includes 120 steps. Right, the Rialto Market, a one-of-akind place crowded with Venetians and tourists. Below, the Erbaria market selling fruit and vegetables, and the Pescaria (fish market).

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WHERE NOW | SHOPPING

GIFT

◄ EBERHARD & CO. Featuring a minimalist design and a sophisticated aesthetic, this automatic model, designed for a dynamic and sporty male wrist, is part of the ‘Aiglon Grande Taille’ line. It boasts a new, elegant brightlycoloured blue sunray dial and luminescent hour markers. www.eberhard-co-watches.ch

GUIDE This month, spending a little time in search of a new accessory, a jewel or a special gift, becomes even more pleasurable. Take advantage of a stroll through the picturesque ‘calli’ of Venice to treat yourself to some alluring detail of style. Where guarantees that you won’t leave empty-handed! ®

► JIMMY CHOO The ‘Candy’ clutch bag in aqua blue acrylic offers a modern look with an element of fun. Designed with a chic asymmetric flap and ribbed acrylic panelling, it features a detachable chain strap to be worn on the shoulder. The signature logo in soft yellow adds a playful edge. www.jimmychoo.com

◄ CARTIER Exclusive writing instruments that bear the signature of a sophisticated, luxury brand. Featuring resin cabochons and measuring just 113mm in length, these mini ‘Diabolo de Cartier’ ballpoint pens in blue tourmaline, yellow or coral pay tribute to the colours of summer. www.cartier.it

▲ MICHAEL KORS From the new ‘Malibu’ capsule collection by MICHAEL Michael Kors: designed with smooth leather straps and set on a soaring raffia platform, the Fisher wedges channel getaway glamour with palm leaf embroidery. Style these artisanal shoes with a breezy sundress for days spent seaside. www.michaelkors.it

22  W H E R E V E N I C E I J U N E 2018

◄ CHANEL ‘Le Vernis’ di Chanel is a long-wear, protective nail polish, with lasting shine designed to make vibrant colours dazzle. Longwearing, extra fine and ultra-shiny, each coat offers an absolutely even and lacquered result. A beauty case ‘must’ for all women. www.chanel.com


◄ TIFFANY & CO. Graphic angles and clean lines blend to create the beautiful clarity of the ‘Tiffany T’ collection. These three rings in white gold, rose gold and gold with diamonds, are characterized by dazzling diamonds tracing the bold form of the letter 'T' in a striking design. www.tiffany.it

► GIORGIO ARMANI The perfect balance between silk and cotton makes this garment incredibly soft. It features a jacquard knit with a geometric motif. The crew-neck sweater's cuffs and bottom hem feature a ribbed knit and are in a contrasting colour. www.armani.com

◄ ISSEY MIYAKE Enriched with delicious notes of tropical fruit, this fragrance embodies the spirit of summer. The ’L’Eau d’Issey-Eau de Toilette’ is characterized by an appealing bottle and box designed by Tyrsa and Alice Auboiron, two young artists who drew inspiration from artistic graphics and nature. www.isseymiyake.com

▲ FREYWILLE This ‘Waterdrop’ pendant from the ‘Hommage à Alphonse Mucha' collection displays all the elements of a timeless classic: artistic design, weightless comfort and an original shape. Designed by Sarah Bernhardt Burgundy, this pendant is plated in 24 carat gold and handcrafted using the brand’s signature fire enamel. www.freywille.com

▲ SHISEIDO For summer 2018, the Japanese brand has created a new line of suncare products. These ‘UV Lip Color Splashes’ add a moisturizing splash of fresh, transparent colour, with UV defence for a beautifully protected finish on your lips. www.shiseido.it

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In search of the perfect accessory In the beating heart of Venice, don’t miss the first standalone boutique dedicated to the world of women’s accessories by Jimmy Choo. By Giulia Minero

I

f diamonds are a girl’s best friend, then shoes are definitely her favourite travel companions. The go-to address in Venice for luxury accessories is San Marco 1289, where renowned designer Jimmy Choo has opened a standalone boutique. The boutique, which was designed by the Christian Lahoude Studio of New York, features a perfect blend of luxury and Venetian tradition, where each detail has been meticulously designed to reflect the brand’s unique style. The store encompasses the whole world of the Jimmy Choo woman; shoes, handbags, eyewear, small leather goods and fragrances are all displayed against an alluring backdrop of luminous Istrian stone. Large crystal window displays showcase jewelled clutches to complete the most elegant evening looks, while the 24  W H E R E V E N I C E I J U N E 2018

footwear - the most famous product of this British brand - take centre stage and is interpreted in every shape and form, including sneakers, iconic pumps and innovative, youthful sandals. Exquisite details in velvet, and lagoon-blue carpets strewn across typically Venetian ‘Terrazzo’ floors, take customers on a magical journey suspended between the past and the present making the Jimmy Choo boutique a place where the allure of the Serenissima and the treasure trove of a modern-day Cinderella combine to offer customers a unique shopping experience. >> www.jimmychoo.com San Marco, 1289. T: 041 5224510 Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop) Open daily 10am-7pm


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT VENICE.WHEREITALIA.COM

The

Guidelines

This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. MAP LOCATIONS- Note that references in bold at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 62-63. TRANSPORT-References to vaporetto lines and stops are based on departure from the Santa Lucia railway station. SHOPPING -Shopping hours are generally from 10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Venice) and on Monday mornings. Ask your concierge. Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.

»

Tips to purchase Murano glass In order to protect local craftsmanship and guarantee the authenticity of recently purchased products, a group of Muranese glass companies, in collaboration with the Regione Veneto, has created a trademark to guarantee that products have been made in Murano according to the traditional techniques used by master glassblowers. Management of the registered Vetro Artistico® Murano trademark is entrusted to the Promovetro Murano Consortium, which boasts a membership of fifty companies. Depending on the type of working process involved, the adhesive sticker can be either red or blue. It also shows the manufacturer’s identification code on the top. In 2016, a serial number and a data matrix code were added to the sticker. These serve as additional proof that the product purchased is a genuine Murano-made item. (by G.M.) www.muranoglass.com - www.promovetro.com

TAX-FREE SHOPPING

By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund. UnionPay Service Hotline: 00 800 800 95516 e-mail: europe@unionpayintl.com

DINING

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30 € or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. SIGHTSEEING

Information about our selection of museums and monuments is checked as carefully as possible. However, opening hours and site accessibility are subject to change depending on the time of the year. Ask your concierge.

PHOTO ©DFS

UnionPay is an international bankcard association based in China and serves the world’s largest cardholder base. With more than 7 billion cards issued worldwide, UnionPay has become the mayor payment method of the outbound Chinese. By March 2018, almost 600,000 merchants in Italy accept UnionPay card for payment, among which 7,000 merchants are located in Venice. This allows hundred of thousands of affluent Chinese customers to shop with their favourite cards. UnionPay also actively work with famous retail groups, such as DFS Group, Coin Excelsior, Airport dutyfree shops, to provide special discount or services for UnionPay cardholders.

The luxury heart of Venice Just steps from the Rialto Bridge, luxury department store T Fondaco dei Tedeschi offers the best of shopping, food and authentic Venetian craftsmanship. All under one roof. Spanning 7,000 square meters, the very first DFS retail space in Europe features an exceptional array of Italian and international fashion brands, accessories, jewelry and watches, wines and spirits, fragrances and beauty products. An authentic shopping experience in an emblematic historic building. Built in 1228, for almost 800 years it was a hub of culture and trade. This lavish four-storey department store is used as a space for events, exhibitions and cultural initiatives but also as a venue designed to promote authentic Venetian craftsmanship. The ground floor atrium is home to AMO, the exclusive Venetian café/restaurant run by the Alajmo brothers offering a gastronomic experience embodying the real soul of Venice (www.alajmo.it/amo). And, to top it all, this stunning historic building overlooking the Grand Canal is also a gem of architecture which, per se, is worth a visit: the view from the rooftop terrace is breathtaking! T Fondaco dei Tedeschi. Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge) www.tfondaco.com

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[ FA SHION DESIGNERS]

Luxury Top Brands A new addition every day! The world of designer boutiques in Venice is making waves, and the majority of big-name brands are located around St. Mark’s Square, the great heart of Venice. By heading towards the Accademia from St. Mark’s Square, you will find yourself in Calle Larga XXII Marzo, the widest street in the city, lined with the window displays of the most coveted international brands. A system of ‘calli’ (the word for street in Venetian dialect) known as the ‘Mercerie’ leads from the Clock Tower in St. Mark’s Square to the Rialto, where Venice’s old ‘botteghe’ (workshops) have now been replaced by luxury boutiques.

DEPARTMENT STORES T FONDACO DEI TEDESCHI—Tfondaco.com Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge) T: 041 3142000. Map F3 COIN EXCELSIOR—www.coinexcelsior.com Cannaregio, 5787 (Rialto Bridge) T: 041 5203581. Map F3

ALBERTA FERRETTI—www.albertaferretti.com San Marco, 295/296. T: 041 5220772. Map F4

DOLCE&GABBANA—www.dolcegabbana.it San Marco, 2188 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5209991. Map F4

BALENCIAGA—www.balenciaga.com San Marco, 1310 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5230806. Map F5

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA—www.zegna.com Bocca di Piazza San Marco, 1241. T: 041 5221204. Map F4

BALLY—www.bally.it San Marco, 4919-4921 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5285839. Map F4

ETRO—www.etro.com San Marco, 1340 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5232599. Map F5

BOGGI MILANO—www.boggi.com San Marco, 1744 (Bacino Orseolo). T: 041 2960321. Map E4 • Stazione Santa Lucia (Fondamenta S. Lucia, 20). T: 041 5246445. Map C3

FENDI—www.fendi.com San Marco, 1582 (Calle Frezzaria). T: 041 2778532. Map F4

BORSALINO—www.borsalino.com San Marco, 4822 (Calle del Lovo). T: 041 2411945. Map F4 BOTTEGA VENETA—www.bottegaveneta.com San Marco, 1473 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5228489. Map F5 BULGARI—www.bulgari.com San Marco, 1494. T: 041 2410553. Map F4

GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani.com San Marco, 2282 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 8503048. Map F4 GUCCI—www.gucci.com San Marco, 2102 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2413968. Map F4 • San Marco, 258 (Mercerie). T: 041 5229119. Map E5

CARTIER—www.cartier.it San Marco, 1474/1495 (Calle San Moisè). T: 041 8842511. Map F4

HERMÈS—italy.hermes.com San Marco, 1292 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2410715. Map F5

CHANEL —www.chanel.com San Marco, 2070 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2405399. Map E5 CHANEL BEAUTY San Marco, 1254/A. T: 041 2708699. Map F3

HUGO BOSS—www.hugoboss.com Piazza San Marco, 80 (Bacino Orseolo 1218). T: 041 5224378. Map F4

CHOPARD—www.chopard.com Piazza San Marco, 51. T: 041 5231883. Map F4

CLARKS— www.clarks.eu. Cannaregio, 5586 (Salizada S. Canzian). T: 041 5229946. Map F3 DAMIANI —www.damiani.com San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Map F5

26  W H E R E V E N I C E I J U N E 2018

FURLA—www.furla.com San Marco, 4833 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 2770460.Map F4

BURBERRY—it.burberry.com San Marco, 2308 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 240291. Map E5

CHURCH’S—www.church-footwear.com San Marco, 1316 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2410147. Map F5

These low-top sneakers by HUGO BOSS add a sporty edge to a casual look.

FRATELLI ROSSETTI—www.fratellirossetti.com Campo San Salvador, 4800. T: 041 5230571. Map F4 • San Marco, 1477 (San Moisè). T: 041 5220819. Map F5

DIOR— www.dior.com San Marco, 1255 (Calle Larga de l’Ascension). T: 041 2411636. Map F5

JIMMY CHOO—www.jimmychoo.com San Marco, 1289. T: 041 5224510. Map F4 LORO PIANA—www.loropiana.com San Marco Ascensione, 1301. T: 041 2770695. Map F5 LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com San Marco, 1345. T: 041 5224500. Map F5 MAX MARA—it.maxmara.com San Marco, 5033 (Mercerie). T: 041 5226688. Map F5 MICHAEL KORS—www.michaelkors.comwww.michaelkors.it San Marco, 1461 (Campo San Moisè). T: 041 2960312. Map F5 MISSONI— www.missoni.com San Marco, 1318/A (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5205733. Map F5


MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com San Marco, 1471 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 8106066. Map F5

MONTBLANC—www.montblanc.com San Marco, 2380 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2413747. Map F5

MONCLER—www.moncler.com San Marco, 2088 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2960605. Map E5

PRADA—www. prada.com San Marco, 1464/1469 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5283966. Map F5 RENÉ CAOVILLA— www.renecaovilla.com San Marco, 1296. T: 041 5238038.

The distinguishing feature of the new ‘Devotion Bag’ from DOLCE&GABBANA is its antiqued brass heart, clad in a fine layer of 24k gold applied to the clasp.

Map F4

ROBERTO CAVALLI— www.robertocavalli.com San Marco, 1314. T: 041 5299020. Map F5 ROCCA 1794— www.rocca1794.com Piazza San Marco, 125. T: 041 5201014. Map F4 SAINT LAURENT—www.ysl.com San Marco, 1302. T: 041 5202211. Map F4 SALVADORI DIAMOND ATELIER— www.salvadori-venezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Map F4 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— www.ferragamo.com. San Marco, 2098 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2778509. Map E5 SWAROVSKI—www.swarovski.com San Marco, 256 (Mercerie dell’Orologio). T: 041 5210618. Map F4 SWATCH—www.swatch.com San Marco, 5022 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5228532. Map F4 TIFFANY & CO.—www.tiffany.it San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Map F5 TOD’S—www.tods.com San Marco, 2251 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5206603. Map E5 VERSACE—www.versace.com San Marco, 1462 (Campo San Moisè). T: 041 5200057. Map F5

This new sophisticated classic cut pant suit by MAX MARA comes in pure silk organza with a visible inner construction. Sheer elegance!

Sizing Women,s clothes IT EUR US UK 36 32 1 4 38 34 2 6 40 36 4 8 42 38 6 10 44 40 8 12 46 42 10 14 48 44 12 16 Women,s shoes IT EUR US UK 36 36 6 3 37 37 6.5 4 38 38 7.5 5 39 39 8.5 6 40 40 9 7 41 41 9.5 8 Men,s clothes IT EUR US UK 50 46 36 36 52 48 38 38 54 50 40 40 56 52 42 42 58 54 44 44 60 56 46 46 Men,s shoes IT EUR US UK 40 40 7.5 6 41 41 8 7 42 42 8.5 8 43 43 9 9 44 44 10.5 10 45 45 11.5 11 46 46 12 12

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SHOPPING

Tax Free Refund Guide 1. VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a value added tax on goods and services, and is part of the European Union’s value added tax system. 2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a VAT refund. This refund does not cover the services supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies. 3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: • you are a non-EU resident; • the goods purchased are intended for personal or family use only and are carried in your luggage; • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds 154,94 Euro (VAT included); • the purchase is certified by an invoice. This invoice should include a description of the goods purchased, your personal information as well as the details of your passport or any other equivalent document; • the goods leave EU territory by the end of the third month after the month that you bought them; • several specific customs formalities are complied with; • the invoice is returned to the Italian retailer within four months after the purchase was made. 4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must be shown at the customs exit point when leaving EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items into your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs BEFORE checking in). 5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return the original invoice, regularly endorsed by the customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice must be returned within four months from the date when the document was issued. 6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian retailer (however, make sure that the shop you’ve chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax Free” sign in its window). 7. Several Tax-Free companies are able to offer immediate VAT cash refunds when the goods leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating the passenger from having to return the invoice to the retailer). However, this procedure only applies at major international airports or main border crossings. Most major department stores have Tax Free Refund offices. 8. The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply the payment of a small administrative sum which is directly deducted from the amount of VAT refunded to the traveller. 9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund within a reasonable period of time, he or she should re-contact the Italian retailer or one of the aforementioned companies. 10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded directly by customs offices. Source: www.agenziadoganemonopoli.gov.it/ portale/ee/citizen/vta-refund

28  W H E R E V E N I C E I J U N E 2018

ACCESSORIES Anatema Rossana Righini delights customers with her scarves, brooches, costume jewelry, bags, hats and silk, handmade ties. Her windows and display cases express the owner’s philosophy: “The culture of beauty, the magic of elegance”. PASSION TIP Anatema also stocks small Murano glass jewelry. Open daily 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. www.anatema.it. San Polo, 2603. T: 041 5242221. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Francis Model Stylish, high-quality bags with a focus on colour. Established in 1965, this small artisanal ‘bottega’ has always remained faithful to the diktats of Made in Italy craftsmanship. Located just steps from the Rialto Bridge, Ruggero De Zorzi devotes himself to his craft with pride and passion. Open daily 10am7.30pm. www.francismodel.it. San Polo, 773/A (Ruga Ravano). T: 041 5212889. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato stop). Map E3

G. Pagan The result of ongoing research, G. Pagan’s bags and accessories are made from prized materials: crocodile, python and even eel. Everything here is about style, it’s worth a visit! It also has another store in Calle della Mandola. Open daily 10am7.30pm. San Marco, 54 (Sotto le Procuratie). T: 041 5208924. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop).

Map F5

Giovanna Zanella For the past ten years, Venetian designer-cobbler Giovanna Zanella has been creating exclusive lines of shoes for men and women at her workshop located just a stone’s throw from the Rialto Bridge. Each pair is endowed with its own, unrepeatable personality because they are often enhanced by a surprise element like touches of nylon, cobra heads, pistils or fringes. Open Mon-Sat 1.30pm8pm. www.giovannazanella.it. Castello, 5641 (Calle near Campo San Lio). T: 041 5235500. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Giuliana Longo A milliner boasting a longstanding family tradition dating back to the early 20th century, Giuliana Longo’s fame has spread far beyond the boundaries of Venice, thanks to her unique Venetian aesthetic. Her shop is the dream hat-cupboard of any true sartorialist, amidst old-world furnishings, original panama hats and handmade headgear. PASSION TIP The only shop in town where you can find authentic gondolier’s hats. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.giulianalongo.com. San Marco, 4813 (Calle del Lovo).T: 041 5226454. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

La Parigina An historic Venetian shoe shop which has been producing its own-name sleek, butter-soft leather shoes for men and women since the 1940s. It also stocks a wide selection of international brands including Church’s, Timberland, Camper, Michael Kors, Bikkemberg sandals and Siton loafers. La Parigina also carries an assortment of luxury sportswear. www.laparigina.it. Open daily 10am7.30pm. San Marco, 733. T: 041 5231555. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4 • Open daily 9am-1pm/4pm-8pm. Venezia Lido, Gran Viale S. M.

Elisabetta 14, T: 041 2420475. Vaporetto line 2 (Lido stop). Off Map

Macrì This shoe boutique in San Marco - its other branch is located in Frezzeria - has been a reference point for discerning Venetians since the 1970s. Its owner Jacopo Nobili sells sought-after, classic men and women’s shoes, distinguished by their Made in Italy aesthetic. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco, 420 (Calle Larga). T: 041 522 9956. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco stop) Map F4• Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco Frezzeria, 1583. T: 041 522 8997.

Michele De Fina Highly select leather shoes, its owner oversees each stage of the working process from the cutting of the leather to the end creation. Craftsmanship and Italian style are the hallmark traits of Venetian shoe designer Michele De Fina. Open daily 10am1pm/2pm-7pm. www.micheledefina.com. San Marco, 318/A (Calle della Canonica). T: 041 3030189. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop or San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

René Caovilla In the 1950s, twenty-year-old René started working at his family’s footwear factory, revealing his talent as a ‘footwear sculptor’. Based in Venice, he has collaborated with fashion houses of the likes of Valentino, Dior, Galliano, Chanel and is noted for the stunning line of "jewel shoes" he co-created with Karl Lagerfeld. Shoe-designer to the stars, A-listers who adore his creations include Gwen Stefani, Robin Wright, Britney Spears and Sarah Jessica Parker. PASSION TIP His pumps in Venetian lace are truly iconic! Open daily 10am7pm. www.renecaovilla.com. San Marco, 1296. T: 041 5238038. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map F4

CLOTHING MEN & WOMEN Al Duca d'Aosta Originally established in Venice in 1902, Al Duca d’Aosta now boasts stores in six cities across the Triveneto region: Venice, Padua, Verona, Mestre, Treviso and Udine. The historical four-storey Venice location features over 100 top fashion brands for men and women, carefully selected to offer its clientele quality and elegance. These include casual men’s lines for a sporty-chic look, sartorial designs for savvy-style gentlemen and women’s wear, featuring the iconic accessories of the latest collections, including small leather goods and bijoux, for a glamorous, cosmopolitan aesthetic. The store offers numerous special facilities and services for its customers, including a Personal Shopping service and Tax Free Shopping. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.alducadaosta.com. San Marco, 4945. T: 041 5220733. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Boggi Milano An easy yet sophisticated look for businessmen on the go, but, above all, a guarantee of style for those who appreciate quality. Boggi Milano offers garments aimed at a contemporary, modern and cosmopolitan man who is not prepared to sacrifice the classics of the male wardrobe: the suit, a second skin that is so comfortable that it can be worn on any occasion. Other locations: Cannaregio (inside the Santa Lucia Railway


SHOPPING Station, Platform 6- Fondamenta Santa Lucia, 20) and Marco Polo Airport. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www. boggi.com. San Marco, 1744 (Bacino Orseolo). T: 041 2960321. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Marina Rinaldi Renowned for its tasteful, plus-size apparel for fashionable women, Marina Rinaldi offers a wide range of collections, featuring both contemporary and classic lines that are updated on a seasonal basis. These include dresses, jackets, coats, bags, accessories for a total look that exudes class and elegance. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun and festivities 11am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm. it.marinarinaldi. com. San Marco, 5028 (Merceria San Salvador). T: 041 2770064. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Pot-Pourrì Three exclusive boutiques set against the magnificent backdrop of Palazzo Regina Vittoria in the heart of Venice. Pot-Pourrì carries clothing and fashion accessories for him and her, artisanal Made-in-Italy collections and a selection of international brands, skillfully mixed with the flair for which the brand is renowned. Couture dresses, handcrafted accessories and knitwear woven in cashmere, silk and natural fibers. The boutiques also stock a selection of accessories and homeware inspired by a classical contemporary aesthetic including knick-knacks and objet d’art for the home, bathroom and table (also ideal for wedding gift lists). Private boat landing

Advertorial

stage. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www. potpourri.it. Womenswear: San Marco, 1810 (Ramo dei Fuseri) - T: 041 2410990. Menswear: 1811/m (Ramo dei Fuseri) - T: 041 5221332. Homewares: San Marco, 1820/m (Frezzeria) - T: 041 5201996. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 San Marco Vallaresso stop Map E4

DEPARTMENT STORES Coin Excelsior Located in Cannaregio, just a few steps from the Rialto Bridge, this luxury department store store extends over four floors surrounding the original indoor courtyard where designer Felice Limosani’s lighting installation is showcased. The store provides a selection of both Italian and International fashion brands, as well as furniture (on the top floor), cosmetics and luxury perfumery (ground floor). Open daily 10am-8.30pm. www.coinexcelsior.com. Cannaregio, 5787. T: 041 5203581. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F3

T Fondaco dei Tedeschi The recently renovated 16th century building that extends over 7000 sqm is a luxury shopping, food and cultural destination. Surrounding a central courtyard, the store offers the best in leading Italian and international fashion brands, accessories, jewellery and watches, wines and spirits, beauty and fragrances, food and a rich selection of local gifts. Don’t miss the specially curated cultural program on the 4th floor

and the breathtaking view from the roof terrace. In partnership with Premier Tax Free, the store will also offer an instant detax at the cash desk when the payment is made by credit card, the first of this kind in Europe. Open daily 10am-8.30pm. www.TFondaco. com. Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge). T: 041 3142000. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).

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FASHION OUTLETS Noventa di Piave Designer Outlet With more than 150 stores, cafés and restaurants, visitors can find their favourite labels with price reductions of up to 70%, all year round, and further discounts at the annual summer and winter sales. From iconic fashion brands like Prada, Gucci, Armani, Fendi, Jil Sander and Paul Smith to sporting labels, like Nike and X-Bionic, and high-street favourites, like Guess and Desigual. Easy to reach from Venice via the shuttle service (available twice a day from “Venezia Tronchetto”, Mestre and Marghera), it offers endless entertainment, from the children’s adventure play area to restaurants and cafés and even an annual summer music festival. Facilities: ATM cash machine, cafés, restaurants, kids play area, baby-changing rooms, free parking, store map and guides, multilingual customer service, wheelchair accessible, free Wi-Fi, personal shopper (on request with extra charge), dogs admitted to the outlet village (admission in stores depending on the store policy), Tax Refund for Non-

Art, luxury and elegance

For more than 30 years, FREYWILLE has been setting new standards in jewellery design, enameling processes and internationalization. The heart of every jewellery piece is the distinctive and artistically designed fire enamel that is applied in many layers and then fired. Up to 100 manual steps are necessary to produce a delicate and colour-intense fire enamel plate, shining with a stunning brilliance. All FREYWILLE Venezia jewellery pieces are hand-made in Vienna by masters of the genre, who guard the secret process: as passionate and experienced artists, they guarantee that the unique jewellery is of the highest quality. FREYWILLE has a long history of paying tribute to Venice’s heritage, incorporating quintessential Italian symbols, colours, and other elements in its products. The opulent and elegant jewellery collection “Hommage à Venice” highlights Venice’s architectural beauty and history. With the winged Lion as the centerpiece of the design, each magical piece of jewellery captures the story behind this special symbol and hallmark of the city as well as that of St Mark, one of Venice’s patron saints.

FREYWILLE Venezia Piazza San Marco, 53 T: 041 5200807 www.freywille.com

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SHOPPING EU citizens and Currency Exchange on-site agency. Open daily 10am-8pm. www.mcarthurglen.com. Via Marco Polo, 1 (Noventa di Piave, 30 minutes from Venice). T: 0421 5741. Off Map

Palmanova Outlet Village Just one hour from Venice, Palmanova Outlet Village offers 90 stores with the trendiest brands discounted by up to 70% and open all year around: Adidas-Reebok, Aldo Bruè, Baldinini, Alberta FerrettiMoschino, Calvin Klein, Fedon, Iceberg, Ixos-Malloni, Nike, Piquadro, Pollini and many others. Tax refund for Non-EU citizens. In addition to shopping, Palmanova Outlet Village makes you discover a land full of history and taste: the picturesque hills of the Collio region, the landscapes of Friuli’s Dolomites and the Alps, close to the Karst plateau with the historical sites of the Great War and the star-shaped city of Palmanova, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Open daily 10am8pm. www.palmanovaoutlet.it. Take the A4 highway Venezia-Trieste and exit at Palmanova. Infoline: T: 0432 837810. Off Map

JEWELRY & WATCHES Audemars Piguet A must-visit stopover for luxury watch lovers. A purveyor of classic watches since 1875, Audemars Piguet is the place to go for elegant timepieces, made to the very highest standards. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-6.30pm. www.audemarspiguet.com. Piazza San Marco, 18. T: 041 5285519. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Boncompagni Venezia

A Gentleman reflected in Blue

Every season the search for something timeless to enhance his wardrobe is considered a priority by any gentleman who is serious about elegance. Boggi Milano recommends this overcheck malfilè S’130 suit in blue the brand’s favourite colour – paired with a classic bluette shirt with a London collar. Crafted in luxurious wool from Guabello, it represents Boggi Milano’s ongoing commitment to sourcing high-quality fabrics. The classic fit and semi-constructed shoulders of this two-button jacket, paired with flat-front trousers, are enhanced by the malfilè fabric giving the suit a sophisticated, contemporary, 3D effect. Smooth leather sneakers downplay the severity of the look, making it suitable for all occasions. A sophisticated suit for a Gentleman in search of a refined look that conveys a high level of attention to detail. www.boggi.com. San Marco 1744 (Bacino Orseolo). T: 041 2960321.

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This historic boutique in St. Mark’s Square stocks some of Italy’s most coveted jewelry brands, offering its clientele a unique selection of beautifully crafted pieces. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am6pm. www.boncompagnivenezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 130/131/132. T: 041 5224563. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

are then processed at its workshop near the Rialto Bridge, in the heart of Venice, to become authentic wearable art. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am9.30pm; Sun 10.30am-2pm/3.30pm-6.30pm. San Polo, 1044. T: 041 5225148. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4

Nardi Venezia A combination of a love of precious stones and a passion for the art of goldsmithery make Nardi’s jewelry rare accessories to be worn or collected, the epitome of sheer Venetian elegance. Open daily 10am-6.30pm. www.nardi-venezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 69. T: 041 5225733. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F5

Officina Bernardi The Bernardi brothers, Francesco and Carlo, recently opened their first monobrand store in the city. Authentic Italian style, exquisite designs and meticulous craftsmanship characterize the precious gold and silver collections of this brand who have made Italian creativity their signature feature. Open daily, 10am-7pm. www. officinabernardi.com. Piazza San Marco, 110. T: 041 5287906. Vaporetto Line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map F5

Omega Omega is a pioneer in the field of watchmaking. Quality and innovation are key to the vision of one of Switzerland’s most famous haute horologists. At its Venetian boutique, you can find all the excellence of these precious creations thanks to its extensive collection of luxurious timepieces for men and women. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www. omegawatches.com. San Marco, 1291. T: 041 5220820. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco stop or San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Pomellato

In addition to its renowned collections of haute joaillerie, Cartier is also famous for its priceless timepieces, a perfect mix of design and technology, enhanced by precious metals and diamonds. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am7pm. www.cartier.it. San Marco, 1474/1475 (Calle San Moisè). T: 041 8842511. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

Established in 1967 as an artisanal workshop, over the years, its contemporary jewelry has captivated wearers around the world. Pomellato creates highly sought-after collections featuring a range of stones boasting myriad colours and ultra-feminine designs. Open Mon-Sat 10am7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.pomellato.com. San Marco, 2031 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5231909. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Damiani

Rocca 1794

Cartier

A reference point in the world of highend jewelry, Damiani is renowned for its unmistakable style and innovative technical solutions, including its ‘a lunette d’illusione’ setting designed to highlight the brilliance of its stones. www.damiani.com. San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Dodo The range of luxurious yet cute gold jewelry created by Dodo, the brand founded by Pomellato in 1995, is by now a classic either for gift or collection purposes thanks to its iconic good luck charms, each of which has its own special meaning. www.dodo.it. c/o Coin Excelsior (www.coinexcelsior.com). Cannaregio, 5787. T: 041 5203581. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F3

Gems of Venice For more than thirty years, Gems of Venice has sourced the most precious stones, which

The boutique’s sweeping window display, overlooking the famous St. Mark’s Square, host the collections of prestigious brands including Damiani and Salvini, but also the iconic models of some of the world’s most coveted high-end watchmakers including A. Lange & Söhne, piaget, Hublot, Zenith and Longines. Also particularly worthy of note are the splendid creations in glass handcrafted by Venini, unique artifacts that add a definite touch of allure to the space. Expert collectors or those who are new to the game can count on a service of excellence which entails full pre- and post-sale assistance. Other services include a full maintenance service with check ups and providing international certificates. www.rocca1794.com. Open daily 10.30am-7pm. Piazza San Marco, 125. T: 02 5201014. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map F4

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RAMO TA R IO Founded in 1837 in New York, Tiffany & Co. isDaE L M O R A L POZETO DE ORO world-renowned jeweller. Since its introduction CAMPIELLO The Merchant of Venice FO DE LA MADONNA in 1886, the Tiffany ® Setting has been known as Ca' Pesaro N ST The prestigious stand-alone boutique of this D CAMPIELLO CAMPIELLO A Santa Sofia R alleria Internazionale the ultimate symbol of VALMARANA love, paving the way for C AD DEL PESTRIN brand which represents the ‘Art of Perfumery AL A C O RT E LE San Lazzaro NO d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro Tiffany’s legendary collection of engagement VA B ATA G I A R VA ISin Venice’ is housed in the former, mid-17th CO CORTE dei Mendicanti rings. Bold, modern collections, including the CORTESE CAMPIELLO century STELLAapothecary of San Fantin, located just CORTE NOVA elegant, minimalist creations designed by Elsa steps from La Fenice Opera House. Its neoSanti Apostoli Peretti and the brightly-coloured lines by Paloma CAMPIELLO Gothic décor and ornamentation in walnut, wood WIDMANN CAMPIELLO CAL TI OZ GAB LE CASON Cà d'Oro Picasso, have made DELLA Tiffany a destination for R IE ZI and terracotta, reflect the typical style of ancient LI those seeking spectacular beauty, style and the S.Canciano Ospedale Giovann Venetian ‘palazzi’. The Merchant of Venice SS. is CAMPIELLO Chiesa Evangelica N very best in design. Open daily S A N C A N10am-7.30pm. CIANO D R IO C A L L AN E M not only aL E line of products but a wider project Luterana ID SCU W O L E www.tiffany.it. San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). LL which includesE a concept store in Murano, the CA CAMPO T: 041 5201037. Vaporetto line 2 (San MarcoS.MARIA NOVA Palazzo Mocenigo Museum in Santa Croce, the CAMPO DELLA CAL LE San Cassiano Vallaresso stop). Map F5 LAR PESCARIA Gin N ZI A N Spice shop A G Ercole d’Oro (Cannaregio) and the N CA . GA DA SA L L IN ZA LI A SA Santa Maria World of Venice space at the Marco Polo Airport. R IO CAMPO This charming ‘50s-60s-style bag is DE Basilica dei SAN CASSAN CAMPO DE LA I M dei Miracoli www.themerchantofvenice.com. Open Tues-Sun I R BECARIE handcrafted in red woven leather. Created San Giovanni Santi Giovanni e Paolo AC CA C A LL OL 10.30am-7.30pm. San Marco, 1895 (Campo San LL E DE CAMPO CAMPO ED I L FO R Grisostomo CA EC NO CESARE BATTISTI by young emerging artisans, it is available CAL LL A’ LE C Ca’ Macana ED Fantin). T: 041 2960559. Vaporetto line 1 (San MU SANTI GIOVANNI GIÀ A S EL TEL TI LI DELLA A BO at the POT-POURRÌ boutique. Teatro E PAOLO One of the oldest and finest maskMalibran making BELLA VIENNA TA Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4 CAMPO CA LL E DE LE SAN GIACOMETO Chiesa dell’Ospe workshops in Venice for Carnival, theatre, film ER BE CA CORTE SECONDA DE M Venini L PIE San Giacomo production and parties. Ca’ Macana crafts DEL MILION CARAMPANE SA L L NS 1857. in Venice in A member of the World O An artistic space, where you rediscover all the BA RB AR IA DE ON di Rialtoauthentic handmade masks in the same way DE I LE TO LE Federation of Diamond Bourses, Salvadori CA elegance and sophistication of the exquisite Casa di RA that Venetian artisans did 800 years ago and MP O CAMPO AN purchases its diamonds from Antwerp and Tel CAMPIELLO E Marco Polo creations handcrafted by Master glassmakers RIALTO eachFontego mask is unique. Thanks to their expertise, SOL NUOVO Aviv, DEL accompanied by the highest diamond from Murano. A prime location for passionate they also hold conferences and courses on dei Tedeschi O N quality certificates. VA Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; collectors, or those whose want to further their CA RA C. D LLE traditional mask-making techniques. Their masks Sant’Aponal EL EL F D D C E A .M A ONT LP Sun 10.30am-6.30pm. www.salvadori-venezia. ET EGO RT IN IO M GH Pontewere featured B O knowledge about an entirely Italian art, Venetian EN RU in importantC Afilm productions GO D. P SA LLE eu. Diamond Atelier Venice: Piazza San Marco, N G FO AL SA handcrafted by di Rialto CORTE CAMPO N CAMPO IOVNDA ZZO CORTE LIZ AN ME including “Eyes Wide Shut” byG IAStanley KubrickCAMPOLE glass creations, meticulously DO TREVISAN ZA DEL NI NT ER SAN SAN BORTOLOMIO DA LA A 67.APONAL T: 041 5230609. Salvadori Boutique Rolex: LP DEL VOLTO Master craftsmen.PRESTRIN TE PIO Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. RA DE CAMPO and in operas including those staged by the NO X E LL A Piazza San Marco, 44. T: 041 2602313. Salvadori SAN LIO C Rialto www.venini.com. San Marco, 314. T: 041 5224045. Vienna Opera House. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. CAMPIELLO PIELLO San Silvestro SANTA MARIA Boutique CAMPO Panerai: Piazza San Marco, 47. T: 041 SAL DEI IZ A Other location: Fondamenta Vetrai, 47 (Murano). DE FORMOSA www.camacana.com. Maskmaking andD ACourses: FONDAMENTA SAN SAN SILVESTRO C. D LONI EL G L IO 5200899. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San MarcoDEI PRETI LIAZ T: 041 2737204. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto or San CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO ZO Dorsoduro, 3172 FontegoCALLE LAR Dorsoduro, 3215. AShowrooms: Santa Maria Vallaresso stop). Map F5 C. LA RGA CORTE DEL Santa Maria Marco stops). Map F4 Dolfin Manin GA M

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NUOVA

DEI PRETI

INCURABILI

ARS

NALE

FONDAME

IUS VIA G

COLTRERA

CALLE

PISCINA

ETTI,

TI,

FA R S

ET RS FA

RIO T ERÀ

TE RIO

COLOMBINA CALLE

MEGIO DEL

STAE

FORNO

SAN

DEL CALLE

SALIZADA GRUE LE

CARMINATI

FONDAMENTA

DE

CALLE

STUA DE

LA

SECONDO

CRISTO

TERA’

DEL

RIO

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DEL LIBRER

CALLE

PESARO

LUCIA

LARGA CALLE

SANTA NTA

PICCOLO

FONDAME

SIMON SAN FONDAMENTA

MEZZO CALLE

DI

L’ARCHIVIO DRIO CALLE

F. CONDULMER

FON. DEI TOLENTINI

CERERIA LA DE

ROCCO SAN

ALBANESI

C.

LARGA

LIPOLI

DEI

CALLE

SBIACCA

STRETA

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

RAGUSEI

DORSODURO

CALLE

SESTIERE FOSCARI CALLE

E N TA

TA A R SE

LA TANA

CALLE

RIO TERA’ OGNISANTI

RAMO DE

CALLE

SANGIANTOFFETTI

AMEN

TANA

CALLE FRIZIER

EREMITE

FOND

DE LA

C. LOREDANA

FONDAMENTA

DAM

La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale

CAMPO

CALLE

DEI CORTELLOTTI

VIDA

CROSERA

CALLE

LA

CALLE

RIO

DE

Museo Storico Navale di Venezia

ROSA

CASTELLO

NT

FONDAMENTA

ROTONDA

CALLE

DEI FORNI

LARGA

DI

FORNACE

SALONI

SA

COSMO

ACCADEMIA

DEI

MOROSINA

FONDAMENTA

Basilica di San Pietro di Castello CALLE

PIETRO

TERRÀ

TA

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

FONDAMENTA ARSENALOTTI

CALLE

Arsenale

100 m

SALUTE

Punta della Dogana

Giudecca Palanca EN

CONVERTITE

CALLE

LA CERTOSA

Vergini

SAN

ONI

de le

RUGA VECCHIA

S C H I AV

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

Ca' Giustinian

FONDAMENTA

CAMPO DELLA SALUTE

Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

RIO

VAPORETTO

San Giovanni Battista in Bragora R I VA D EGLI

FON

Salute

CATECUMENI

Giardino delle Vergini

Rio

San Martino

S. Zaccaria (Pieta')

DEGLI

La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese

RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA

C. VOLTO

RIO TERRÀ

La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale

Arsenale di Venezia

Arsenale di Venezia

PESTRIN

GRITTI CALLE

RI

Palazzo Genovese

FONDAMENTA

DEL

DE CALLE

CROSERA

Palazzo Pisani Gritti

DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO

CALLE

PISCINA

PIGNATER

CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO

ASCENSIONE

FONDAMENTA

nzera Scome De Canale I

MARTIN

L’ARCO

CALLE

DEL PIOVAN

MUNEGHE

CONVERTITE

VECCHIO GHETTO

CERERIA

CALLE

LA

CALLE

DE CALLE

CAMIN DEL

RIELLO CALLE

CALLE

TO

DEL NOVA ISOLA

MARITTIMO PORTO DIREZIONE

MARITTIMO PORTO

ima

DIREZIONE

Maritt ne

MAGAZZIN

a

AI DIETRO

DE

SALIZADA

FONDAMENTA

enzer

CALLE

DE

VONI

BASTION

SCUDI

SCHIA

DEL

CALLE

L’ANZOLO

DEGLI

DEGLI

S. Zaccaria (Danieli)

NUOVE

CASTELLO

DE

CALLE

Bacin o Stazio

CELESTIA

DONA

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI CALLE

R I VA

O

CASTELLO CASE

DELLA

CALLE

GATE

LARGA

RC

SESTIERE

FONDAMENTA CALLE

CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA

DE L’OGIO

CALLE

SAN ANTONIN

CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO

SCHIAVONI RIVA

NUOVE

SECONDO SAGRADO

CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA

CORTE DEL MORION

CORTE DELLE GATE

SAN

Santa Maria della Pietà

VIN CALLE DEL

CAVALLETTO

Palazzo

FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN

AM

CASE

RAMO

CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA

CORTE SACCA

DRASI

FABBRI

Moise

DEL TRAGHETTO

MARTIRI

San

CALLE

RIDOTTO

DEI PUTI

CALLE DEL PESTRIN

TREDICI

Rio

CALLE

VALLARESSO

CALLE

CALLE

SARTOR

CALLE

SEBASTIAN

ND

San Francesco della Vigna

FRANCESCO

SANTA GIUSTINA

CALLE DEI FURLANI

SALIZADA

CALLE DELA CREA

FO

FO

SAN

SALIZADA

San Giovanni di Malta

CALLE TERAZZERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’

Spirito Santo

BIAGIO

Sant'Eufemia

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

ZON

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA

San Zaccaria

CASTELLO

CALLE

CALLE SAN LORENZO

CALLE LION

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

SESTIERE

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA

San Lorenzo

DE LE

DEI

FONDAMENTA DEL VIN

C. DEL

A N M

SOTO E CORTE NOVA

Rio Del

CALLE

CALLE

SA

DEL CAFETIER

CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA

San Giorgio dei Greci

CAMPO SAN PROVOLO

CALLE BOSELLO

DELL’OROLOGIO

VERONA

LO

DEI PRETI

CALLE

SPECHIERI

SPADARIA

MARZARIA

DEI

LA

MINELLI

Palazzo Ducale

MO

CALLE

DE L’OSMARIN FONDAMENTA

C. PIANTON

O

Museo Correr

ZORZI SALIZADA

SALIZADA

CALLE

DE

RC

GIUFFA

CASSELERIA

C.

CALLE

ORSEOLO

Scom

Santa Maria del Pianto

CALLE

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

SEVERO

DEL

le

NOVE

LATERANO

CORTE NOVA

CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO

ZATTERE

SAN

LAVRANERI

CALLE

ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA

CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO

FONDAMEN TA

P U N TA S A B B I O N I

ENTA

DE LE TOLE

FONDAMENTA GIOVANNI

CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO

BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO

MEZO

RUGA

C.

VERONA

MA

SAN

ZZA

DE CALLE

SAN

LA

PIA

PRIMO RAMOCONTARINA CORTE

San Moisè

CORTE NUOVA

REMEDIO

San Giovanni Novo

MARCO

CANONICA DE LA

CALLE ERIZZO

LIO

DE

FONDAMENTA

C.

MANDOLA

AVVOCATI

TERÀ

CALLE

Bacino Orseolo

CARRO

CALLE

BARBARIA

SAN

Palazzo Querini Stampalia

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

FONDAMENTA

RIO

CALLE

SAN

DE LA SACA

CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO

LE VIGNOLE

FONDAM

San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti

Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto

CORTE TREVISAN

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani

BANDE

CORTE

DEL

SAN

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

Basilica di San Marco

Rio San Lorenzo

C.

C. DE LE COLONNE

DEL

DE LE

FRUTARIOLI

CALLE

LARGA

CALLE

CAPPELLO BIANCA

FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO

SAN

REDIVO

CALLE GOLDONI

CALLE

FRUTARIOL

DEL

CAMPO SAN MOISE’

CORTE BAROZZI

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

CALLE

CALLE DEL FIGHER

CALLE

BALONI

CORTE TORRETTA

FREZZERIA

MOISE’

SA PISCINA

XXII MARZO

VENEZIA

NOVE

Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo

FORNO

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

TASCA

CORTE DEL FORNO

C.DEI

Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo

CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

DEL

DE LE ERBE

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

SALIZADA

FABBRI

DE PISCINA

LA CHIESA

DRIO

LARGA

CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

ZULIAN

ORBI

DEI

GRIMANI

CALLE

PISCOPIA

CAVALLI

CARBON

Salvador

CALLE

CALLE

DEL

CORNER

San

CALLE

CALLE

Rio

TODESCHI

CALLE

G. GALLINA

CALLE

O MUSSATO CALLE

San Giuliano

SAN

PIGNOLI

DEI

BEMBO

C. DEI

CALLE

CORTE MICHIEL

LUCATELLO MARZARIA DEI

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

San Fantin

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

San Gregorio

RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO

LICINI

MEZO

C.

Spirito Santo CALLE

DEI LAVRANERI

San Gerardo CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO

LARGA

CALLE

CORTE

RUBBI

DE

CORTE GRAGOLINA

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

E

CORTE NOVA

CALLE GABRIELI

DRIO CALLE LE SCUOLE

CALLE

CASTELLI

PIOMBO

D. PALLE

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

LIO

C. LARGA

CORTE

CALLE

CAPITELLO

BALOTE

GRAGOLINA LE COLONNE DE

GALLO

BERLENDIS

CORTE CORTESE

CAMPIELLO STELLA

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

CALLE DEL C.MARTINENGO

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

CAMPO

DE LA FAVA

CALICE

DEL

TAGIAPIERA

LE

BOTERI

VARISCO

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

MIRACOLI

GIAZZO

SAN GALIAZZO

C. DEL

SALVADOR

MARZARIA

CORTE C.DEL TRAMONTIN

C.DE

STRAZZE TERÀ RIO

CALLE CAMPO SAN GALLO

REMER

DOLERA

CAFETIER

Santa Maria del Giglio

CALLE DEL BASTION

FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

DEL FORNO

SAN

DELLE

SAN

Teatro la Fenice

Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

CHIESA

CALLE DEL NAVARO

SABION

C.

C.

O DEL

CALLE DEL

CAOTORTA

Santa Maria del Giglio

CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim

DELLA

SALIZADA

FONDAMENTA

DEI

CALLE

CALLE

CAMPO SAN LIO

C. DEL

CORTE DEL

MARZARIA

San Salvador

COCCO

GALIZZI

STURION

DEI

DEL

CINQUE

C.

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

CALLE

DEI

CALLE

CALLE

TOSCANA

MAZZINI CORTE

MAGAZEN

DEL

CALLE

CALLE

O

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN

CALLE

MORETTI

DE

DONZELA

LUCA SAN CALLE

MARCO

CALLE

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

San Maurizio

Canal Grande

CALLE

CAPPUZZI

SANTO

BIAGIO

DEI

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

WIDMANN

RIO

Teatro Malibran

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

X

SALIZADA

LARGA

SAN SALVADOR

TEATRO DEL CALLE

LOCANDE

PONTE

SACCA SAN

LARGA

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

C O RT E B ATA G I A

S.Canciano

SAN CANZIAN

FONTEGO

PIO

CALLE

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

Santo Stefano

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

CALLE

SPIRITO

RAMO

CALLE

LA

SAN BOTEGHE

CAMPO PISANI

CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

ZATTERE ALLO

CALLE

DE

LE

FALIER CALLE

San Vidal

FONDAMENTA

CAL

FRUTARIOL

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

CALLE

C.

DE

CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

Palazzo Loredan

CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

VENIER

BARBA

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

C. DEL

SALIZZADA

Rialto

TEATRO

CALLE ASSASSINI

FONDAMENT

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto

ORESI

nde Canal Gra

CROSERA

S. SAMUELE

SAMUELE

PESTRIN

CARROZZE

C.SANT'AGNESE

NANI

AI GESUATI

CALLE

SARTORI

TERÀ

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

San Giacomo di Rialto

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

CORTE DEL

Palazzo Nervi Scattolin

CAMPO MANIN PATERNIN

MANDOLA

TERÀ

RIO

CALLE

CORTE DEL REMER

RIO

SALIZADA

San Giovanni Grisostomo

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

SAN

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

DEL PISTOR

CALLE

ZATTERE

Zattere

VOLTI

PRIULI

NOVA

CAMPO DELLA PESCARIA

RAVANO

San Silvestro

Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)

CALLE

CALLE

DEL

LE

Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia CALLE

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

FOND.

FONDAMENTA

Santa Sofia

STRADA

DEI

PISCINA

CROSERA

S. SALIZADA

DE

CALLE

S. Samuele

Ca' Rezzonico

Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione

Giudecca Hilton

Chiesa dei Gesuiti

ZEN

S.ANDREA

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

STUA

PARANGON

DEL

RUGHETA

S.Silvestro

DEL TEATRO

CATENE

CAMPO DEI GESUITI

FONDAMENTA

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

CALLE

CALLE

RIELO

SPORCA CALLE PAZIENZE DE LE

LORENZO

FONDAMENTA

C. SAN

SCOAZZERA DE LA

LE PAZIENZE

Cana

LA

CAMPO DE LA BECARIE

CAMPIELLO DEL SANSONI

CAMPIELLO DEL SOL

Palazzo Grimani

NOVE

CALLE

CATERINA

FOND.

Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana

MUTI

nde

NARISI FOND.

VECCHIA

CORTE LEZZE

CAMPO SAN TROVASO

BONLINI

E

FONDAMENTA

SANTA

CAMPO SAN BENETO CALLE

Palazzo Grassi San Samuele

CALLE BERNARDO

FONDAMENTA

LONGO

TRAPOLIN

San Beneto San Luca

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

TRAGHETTO

CA’ RAMO

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI

Ca' Rezzonico San Barnaba

San Trovaso

OGNISANTI

CA’

BOTA

Sant’Aponal DEL

DEL

C. DE

DE

PONTE

LA

CARAMPANE

CALLE

DI SAN MARCO

Accademia

FOND.

ZATTERE

LE

Gra

Palazzo Fortuny

SESTIERE

CALLE

A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA

DE OGNISANTI

AL

DE

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

Sant'Angelo

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA

INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON

Chiesa di Ognissanti

FONDAMENTA

FODAMENTA

DE DE

CARAMPANE

TERÀ

CAMPO SAN APONAL

TRAGHETTO

CAMPO DEI CARMINI

Abazia della Misericordia D I

R

A

PERDON

DEL

Carmini

Santa Maria dei Carmini

CALLE DE LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN BESAGIO

DEL

CALLE CALLE

RIO

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

al Can Palazzo Giustinian Persico

S. Toma' SX

DORSODURO

BESAGIO

O

San Cassiano CAMPO SAN CASSAN

L’AGNELLA

Palazzo Querini-Dubois CALLE

del

RIO TERA’

L' ARZERE

GUARDIANI

DE

CALLE SAN

CANAL RIO TERA’

Rio

CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO

CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN

San Sebastiano

IC

San Felice

TIOZZI

DE

CORTE DEL TEATRO

CAMPO SAN POLO

MADONA

CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA

ROSSA

FONDAMENTA

RAGUSEI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL

DORSODURO

ER

CALLE

DEI

C.

SCALETER

San Tomà

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

BEATE GIULIANA

SACCA

FISOLA

LARGA

IS

d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro

CALLE

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

DE

DEL

DE LA

CAZZIOLA

Angelo Raffaele

SALIZADA

CALLE CHIESA

M

FONDAMEN

VENDRAMIN

S.Stae

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

CALLE CA’BONVINCINI

BOLDO

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

CAMPO SAN TOMÀ

CROSERA

FONDAMENT

VENEZIA

TA

TRON

SAN

C.

EN

CA'

FORNO

FONDAMENTA

LARDONI

C.

CONTARINI

dell'Orto

AM

DE

San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale

CALLE

DEL

TENTOR

MEZO

CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO

ZANE

RAMO

Rio Nuovo

BRIATI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

S. Basilio

DELLA

D

TA

TA

SAN POLO

CAMPO DEI FRARI

CALLE

Giudecca Hilton FONDAMENTO

CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO

CALLE

N

FONDAMEN

DEL

TABACCHI

PRETI

L’ASEO

Madonna

MORI

CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE

L

CAMPO SAN STIN

TOMÀ

CAMPO SAN ROCCO

DE

NA

Santa Fosca

CALLE

NUOVA

TINTORETTO

DEI

CALLE

FOMO

CA

NA

RUGA

SAN

CALLE

CALLE

CAMPO SAN PANTALON

RENIER

DEL

LE

ALE

FABBRICHE

CALLE DE L’OGIO

TERÀ

Basilica dei Frari

San Rocco

Muneghete

CALLE

CALLE

NIE

DD

LE

RIO

CALLE

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

PAPADOPOLI

DEI FONTEGHERI

CALLE

CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI

C.

DE

CAMPO SAN BOLDO

CALLE

CALLE DE LA LACA

le

PANTALON

San Pantalon

NUOVO

.DA

MA

Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

CALLE

CALLE

OCHE

LATTE

LACA

FONDARIA

CIMESIN

de

SAN

BASEGO

RIO

LA

DE

LA

CALLE DELL'OLIO

TOLENTINI

FONDAMENTA

DEI

DE

LA

RAMO

CIMESIN

SALIZADA

CALLE

DEI

FO

À D E

Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

L’ISOLA

OCHE

C.VENZATO

LA

CALLE

C. CAMPAZZO DE CALLE

MINOTTO

Magazen

Misericordia

FO de Servi N

TER

SOTOPORTEGO

DE

TINTOR

FON.

CALLE

San Nicolò dei Mendicoli

CALLE

Istituto Universitario Di Architettura

CALLE SAN BASILIO

DE

DE LA VIDA

DEL

SCHI

NICOLO’ SAN

MATTA DI CA’

CALLE CASE NUOVE

AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO

TERA’

RAMO

CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO

CALLE ORSETTI

TA

CANAL CORTE

LUNA

Rio

Del

Rio dei Tolentini

FONDAMENTA

CALLE CONTARINA

della

Rio

San Giacomo dall'Orio

RUGA BELA

TA GARZOTTI FONDAMEN

CALLE

DEI

LIBERTÀ

VECCHIO BERGAMA

SIMEONE

BARI

DELLA

SAN

TRAGHETTO CALLE

MARTA SANTA FONDAMENTA

CAMPIELLO LONGHI

CALLE

CERERI

Rio

La Maddalena

NOVA

CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

CALLE CAZZA

CALLE SAVIO

RUGA VECCHIA

CAMPO NAZARIO SAURO

DEI

DEI

IA

RIO

Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola RIO

I CALLE ORSETT

C.

NUOVA

FONDAMENTA

RD

R

STRADA

BIASIO

DI

BARI

LARGA

PONTE RIZZI

PROCURATIE

FONDAMEN

Soranzo Cappello

LA

DEI AMAI

RAMO

Rio

PENSIERI

FONDAMENTA

LISTA

San Simeone Profeta C.

DEI

FONDAMENTA

ICO

VECCHIO

RIVA FONDAMENTA

CALLE

TERÀ

MADONA

SAN MICHELE

FONDAMENTA

della

CAMPO FONDAMENTA DEI MORI

ER

CALLE TRAGHETTO

Riva de Biaso

CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO

Palazzo Soranzo Capello

Giardino di Palazzo

DE CAMPO

San Nicola da Tolentino

FONDAMENTA

RIO

LA

MIS

CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA

DEL REMER

nde l Gra Cana

RIO

CASE CORTE

CALLE

SANT'ANDREA

TABACCHI

FABBRICA FONDAMENTA

DE

TA

E DEL PISTO

RIO DIETRO TERÀ LA CHIESA

San Marcuola

CAMPIELLO

NUOVE

CROCE

C. LAVADORI TERÀ

LUNGA

LA

Giardino Papadopoli

PIAZZALE ROMA RIO

CALLE

CROCE

CALLE

Madonna dell'Orto

MADONNA

A

EN

CALL

EONARDO

SAN LEONARDO

San Leonardo

DEI

Ferrovia

San Simeon Piccolo

Ferrovia

Ferrovia

Sant'Andrea

SANT'ANDREA

AM

I

NA

RDIA

TRONCHET

LER

SE

S. L R I O T E R À CAMPO

SCALZI

Ponte degli Scalzi

FONDAMENTA

TERÀ

NS

DELL'ORTO

ER LE P

A E M

SPAGNA

LISTA TERÀ

TI

P.le Roma

Ponte della Costituzione FO.

RIO

People Mover Venezia

SE

ND

Museo Ebraico CAL

LL

MISERICO

DI

CAVALLET

Santa Maria di Nazareth

People Mover Venezia

S A N TA

CAMPIELLO P I AV E

FONDAMENTA

TA

Rio

LA

AI

Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia

ITTICO MERCATO DIREZIONE

EN

FO

DE

PRIULI

TO

AM

CANNAREGIO

CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO

CA

CALLE

TRONCHET

TRONCHETTO

Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo

Sant'Alvise

CAMPO S A N T ' A LV I S E

ND

INE

CALLE

ZZ

SAVORGNAN

San Geremia

CALLE DEI FUSERI

PU

San Girolamo

A

CAMPO SAN GEREMIA

SALONI

CA

C.

FO

LE

O

AI

DE

AM

ZATTERE

TA

OL

Palazzo Nani FONDAMENT

FONDAMENTA

NUOVE

EN

LLO

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

AM

N G IR

DEL

ND

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The art of solidifying silicon to obtain a hard yet delicate transparent material, suitable for countless purposes, is rooted in the ancient past. According to historians, glass was first made in Mesopotamia in the III millennium B.C. However, several archaeological digs suggest that glassmaking was already practiced in Venice in the 7th century B.C. Furthermore, after the year 1000 A.D., its production had become so important that it was protected by specific laws. There was only one small problem - the presence of glass furnaces in medieval Venice, which was largely built of timber, presented a grave fire hazard.

TORCELLO

ISOLA DEI LAGHI

FONDAME

home on the same day. Furthermore, each piece is unique, meaning that small imperfections are an integral part of the value of the object. In short, if you come across a shop selling mass-produced items that promises quick delivery times or tempts you with low prices, beware. Apart from some exceptions, it’s better to do your glass shopping in Murano rather than in the city of Venice. Don’t worry if you want to buy an object but don’t have time to wait: the island’s glass factories are now equipped to make safe deliveries anywhere in the world.

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As a result, in 1291, for safety reasons, the Great Council ordered the glass workers to transfer to the Island of Murano, where they created a district that still exists. It was here that in the 13th century eyeglasses were invented, and here, in 1369 that mirrors began to be produced. It was also here, in 1450, that Angelo Barovier invented crystal. Throughout the Renaissance, glass was a rare commodity. It was only in 1827 that glass began to be produced on an industrial level. At that point, blown glass or glass produced by lampworking became a highly prized material used for aesthetic purposes, and achieved the height of its splendor during the Art Nouveau period. Artists including Lalique, Dammouse or Tiffany sought out the glass blowers of Murano to produce their coveted objects. During the midtwentieth century, real masters of the art including Signoretto, Ballarin, Zanetti and Vidal began to emerge in Murano. Their works are highly coveted objects, true collectors' items that are often displayed at museums. While strolling through the streets of Murano, you’ll be spoilt for choice. If you want to make a purchase, bear several criteria in mind. Crafting authentic Murano glass is no easy task and isn’t cheap. Large objects require hours of work, so don’t expect to take you custom-made lamp

FONDAMENTA

Venice and glass: a strong, enduring partnership that has lasted for centuries. It’s natural to mention glass when talking about Venice. It’s the same as associating the city with the Lagoon, its colours and the plays of light that have served as inspiration for the most iconic creations by local master glass blowers.

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ADVERTORIAL

VETRERIA DUCALE Located in the heart of Murano, an island famed throughout the world, Vetreria Ducale offers a wide selection of glass works created by the best 20th century masters as well as premium-quality contemporary objet d’art. Lighting, mirrors, sculptures, tableware and custommade items to suit individual styles and requirements. In addition to restorations, Vetreria Ducale also reproduces individual parts of antique objects. Worldwide delivery. Guided multi-lingual tours to the furnaces with glassmaking demonstrations.

Fondamenta Navagero, 76 MURANO Tel: +39 041 739922 | +39 041 5275284 fax +39 041 5276049 info@ducalemurano.com www.ducalemurano.com

VETRERIA ESTEVAN ROSSETTO 1950 Vetreria Estevan Rossetto 1950 offers a wide range of glass works and distinctive product lines. Created ad hoc, they blend to perfection with both modern and classic design elements. Chandeliers, mirrors and tableware: exclusive pieces skillfully handcrafted by master glass blowers from Murano, each item is made to order and customized according to individual tastes or designs. A team of expert multilingual staff is available to assist customers in their search for the perfect object and guided tours to the furnace can be booked on request.

Fondamenta Navagero, 50 MURANO Tel: +39 041 739329 fax +39 041 5274367 info@rossettomurano.com www.rossettomuranoglass.com More info: venice.whereitalia.com w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com  33


UNIQUE IN VENICE

VENETIANS

Artisanal ‘botteghe’, tiny jewel-like boutiques and vintage shops, this 'unique' city offers an array of 'unique' locations where you can indulge in an authentic shopping experience and purchase objet d’art, fabrics and accessories that you'll be hard put to find elsewhere. While strolling through its ‘calli’, you will discover how the tradition cultivated by the latter endows this city with its characteristic vibrancy…

Eredi Jovon A celebrated Venetian jeweler since 1934, and the owner of one of the few remaining historical shops on the Rialto bridge, Eredi Jovon is famous for its hand-carved Italian shell and blue agate cameos, set in silver or gold, and available at factory prices or on special offer. The shop is also renowned for its beautiful coral, Murano glass and blackamoor jewelry. High quality, superior craftsmanship and its wide assortment of cameos and customized coral jewelry allow Eredi Jovon to satisfy the individual tastes of even the most discerning customers. WHERE TIP On request, Eredi Jovon creates customized portrait cameos based on photos or digital files. Thanks to an efficient e-commerce service, all creations can be ordered online and shipped worldwide. Open daily 10am7.30pm. www.eredijovon.com. Ponte di Rialto, 5325. T: 041 5228979 Map F4

PHOTO © DE LUNA_WHEREITALIA

La Bottega dei Mascareri The workshop of the Boldrin brothers specializes in the crafting of a variety of papier mache Venetian masks, including jesters, elves and characters from the ‘Commedia dell’Arte’ for a trip back into 18th century Venice. The Mascareri have also worked for the theatre, the cinemas and fashion shows, and are considered among several of the most established manufacturers of collector’s items. They were the first mask makers to embellish their masks with decorations by Tiepolo. Open daily 9am-6pm. www.mascarer.com. San Polo, 80. T: 041 5223857 and San Polo, 2720. T: 041 5242887. Map E3

La Bottega dei Mascareri

Tessitura Bevilacqua Artisanal weavers specializing in the production of exquisite, decorative fabrics for furnishings and curtains. A unique place! Since 1875, the company has practiced the art of weaving on original looms that once belonged to the Venetian School of Silk. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-4pm (Sat-Sun by

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PHOTO © DE LUNA_WHEREITALIA

Piedàterre Tucked away under an arcade just steps from the Rialto bridge is a tiny boutique with an astonishing selection of handmade slippers, where Alessandra and Renato make and sell colourful ‘furlane’ (slippers), handcrafted with recycled bicycle-tyre treads, ideal for finding your footing on a gondola. Their creations are available in coloured velvet, brocade, printed fabrics or recycled shirting, provided by their customers. Highly original and absolutely unmissable! Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.piedaterre-venice.com. San Polo, 60 (Ruga Rialto, Sotoportego dei Oresi). T: 041 5285513. Map E3

Eredi Jovon

Eredi Jovon's cameo


ADVERTORIAL

Ottica Manuela appointment). www.luigi-bevilacqua.com. Santa Croce 1320. T: 041 721566. Map E5 Ottica Mantovani Sun and prescription glasses, the most technologically advanced lenses and the most comfortable, fashionable frames. Managed by the Carlon family since the ‘40s, it is now run by the third generation of opticians: a reference point for locals requiring either prescription eyewear or sunglasses. In fact, one of the Mantovani’s most famous customers was Peggy Guggenheim. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. www.otticamantovani.it. San Marco, 4860 (Mercerie del Capitello). T: 041 5223427. Map F4

Tessitura Bevilacqua

San Marco, 1895 (Campo San Fantin). www.themerchantofvenice.com. T: 041 2960559. Map F4

Nicolao Atelier An artisanal tailor’s shop that makes Venetian-style period costumes for movies, plays, commercials and Carnival parties. More than 10,000 sets of underwear, accessories, headgear and capes, all exhibited in an elegant premises in the centre of Venice that comprise a workshop, a showroom and the entire costume collection. Open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm/2pm-6pm. Only Sat 3-10 February and Sun 4-11 February open 9am-1pm/2pm-6pm. www.nicolao.com. Cannaregio, 2590 (Fondamenta della Misericordia). T: 041 5207051. Map E2 Ottica Manuela Located in the district of San Marco, this high-end optician resembles an atelier rather than a shop. Renowned for its professionalism and attentive service, it offers creations that are real works of art. Its frames for prescription lenses or sunglasses make Ottica Manuela’s iconic eyewear real statement pieces that add a unique touch to every face. Open daily 10am-7pm. San Marco, 3145 (Salizada San Samuele). T: 041 5210268 Map E4 The Merchant of Venice The prestigious stand-alone boutique of this brand which represents the ‘Art of Perfumery in Venice’ is housed in the former, mid-17th century apothecary of San Fantin, located just steps from La Fenice Opera House. Its neo-Gothic décor and ornamentation in walnut, wood and terracotta, reflect the typical style of ancient Venetian ‘palazzi’. The Merchant of Venice is not only a line of products but a wider project which includes a concept store in Murano, the Palazzo Mocenigo Museum in Santa Croce, the Spice shop in Ercole d’Oro (Cannaregio) and the World of Venice space at the Marco Polo Airport. Open Tues-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm.

Piedàterre

Nicolao Atelier

The Merchant of Venice Murano Exclusive Collection

Ottica Mantovani

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SHOPPING

VENETIANS

Discovering Venice’s art galleries

Galleria Contini

Is Venice really a place to buy objet d’art? Definitely! There are so many large and small 20th century and contemporary art galleries in the city that it’s almost impossible to list them all. Where® has selected a pick, renowned for their quality, tradition, or originality. By Romena Brugnerotto

Galleria Contini is a must-visit address for modern and contemporary art. Boasting more than 40 years in the business (it’s the oldest gallery in Venice), it exhibits works by important Italian and international artists including Mitoraj, Botero and Giuseppe Veneziano (San Marco 2288, www.continiarte.com). Other galleries, such as Luce Arte Moderna, are renowned for their display of works associated with the city (San Marco 1922, www.gallerialuce.com). Newcomers? Located in Venezia-Mestre, the D’E.M. Venice Art Gallery is a new, important exhibition space featuring a prestigious collection of 20th century masters including Vedova, Treccani, Licata, Guidi, Mirò and DalÍ. The gallery also hosts works by contemporary Venetian and international artists like Alexander Kanevsky whose imposing work titled ‘God’s Kingdom’ is one of the space’s major attractions. Ever-aware of the region’s cultural life and its artists, the gallery’s charismatic owner Elena Mangu offers a rich program of multi-cultural events and ambitious projects in the world of art dealerships (Venice-Mestre, via Dante Alighieri 8. www.demveniceartgallery.com).

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Luce Arte Moderna. Riccardo Licata, Untitled.


PHOTO © COURTESY THE ARTIST AND VICTORIA MIRO, LONDON © CHRIS OFILI

SHOPPING

The new, 300 sq.m. space of Galerie Alberta Pane creates an artistic link between Paris and Venice. In keeping with the space’s history as a workshop, the gallery encourages artists to give life to ambitious projects such as large scale installations (Dorsoduro 2403/h. www.galeriealbertapane.com). Among the new openings, the Victoria Miro Gallery has arrived directly from London to take up residence in the former space of Venice’s historic “Il Capricorno” gallery. The London dealer has brought several of the important artists represented by her to the heart of the city (San Marco 1994, www.victoria-miro.com).

Victoria Miro Gallery. Chris Ofili, Poolside Magic 8.

Berengo Studio 1989. Aldo Mondino, Jongleur.

Located in the so-called Art Mile, in the sestiere of Dorsoduro which is teeming with museums and galleries, another must-visit venue is Galleria L’Occhio which, until 7 June, will host the works of Tobia Ravà, a Venetian artist renowned for researching the mystic currents of Judaism (San Marco 1994, www.gallerialocchio.net).

world’s best-known contemporary artists to experiment with this material and create unique pieces (Fondamenta dei Vetrai 109/a, www. berengostudio1989.com). Other go-to spaces in the city include Caterina Tognon who represents the most important artists of Studio Glass (San Marco 2158, www.caterinatognon.com). Collectors of wearable art should head to OhMyBlue. This unique venue sells contemporary artistic jewelry, bags, accessories, everyday items, glass items, ceramics and porcelain, all carefully selected from the best international offerings available on the market (San Polo 2865, www.ohmyblue. com).

Must-visit addresses for lovers of photography? The Ikona Photo Gallery housed in the picturesque spaces of the Ghetto Novo. Since 1979, thanks to its association with the Ikona International School of Photography, it has brought the best-known names in international photography to Venice (www.ikonavenezia.com). The ghetto is also home to Melori & Rosenberg, a historic gallery renowned for exhibiting the works of hyperrealist painter Luigi Rocca (Cannaregio 2919, www.melori-rosenberg.com). Fans of photography should also plan a visit to the Bugno Art Gallery that exhibits the works of well-known Italian photographers including Campigotto, Morucchio and Galimberti (San Marco 1996/d, www.bugnoartgallery.com). It goes without saying that Venice is one of the best places to purchase glass objects. Due to its in-depth knowledge of artistic glass, Berengo Studio 1989 has invited several of the

Bugno Art Gallery

D'E.M. ART GALLERY This vast, visually striking exhibition space was recently opened by its charismatic owner Elena Mangu. The gallery showcases works by 20th century masters and contemporary artists in suggestive settings characterized by the colour of its rooms and works. It is a constantlyevolving, multi-cultural, international gallery which also organizes collective and personal exhibitions. Off Map www.demveniceartgallery.com Via Dante Alighieri, 8 (Venezia-Mestre) T.: 041 981820 - Mob. +39 327 5803670

w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com  37


SHOPPING

VENETIANS

Top antiques

Antichità San Samuele

Tessitura Luigi Bevilacqua

Venice is infused with so many historical and artistic artefacts that the city’s passion for antiques is literally embedded within its soul. There are so many large and small workshops that it is almost impossible to list them all. Our city reporter Stefano Traine has selected the most important. Alessandro Zoppi A true son of Venice, Alessandro Zoppi, one of the most passionate and authoritative collectors and art merchants in the city, spent his youth travelling extensively abroad. In 1961, he moved to London where he stayed for a few years. The owner, for more than a decade, of the highly prestigious Antichità Cesana, today, Zoppi’s house-museum features a number of pieces from his impressive collections, with a particular emphasis on artistic glass objet d’art dating from the 16th through 20th centuries. PASSION TIP Visiting his house-museum, or even talking to Alessandro Zoppi, is like taking a marvellous journey back in time. By appointment only. T: 335 6657005. email: winglets13@gmail.com. Antichi Splendori Devoted to the ongoing search for objet d’art and antiques, the mission of this highly qualified antique dealer is to keep the interest in authentic masterpieces alive. Its San Lio-based store in Venice offers a careful selection of the city’s artistic treasures, with a particular focus on antique jewelry, Murano glass from the 11th to 20th centuries and paintings of Venetian landscapes. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-7pm. Castello, 5545 (Salizada S. Lio) T: 041 5239265. info@antichisplendori.com. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Antichità San Samuele An antiques dealer since the Seventies, Silvana Vianello is renowned for her research and expertise in the field. PASSION TIP San Samuele specializes in religious antiques, with a particular focus on sculptures dating from the 13th through 18th centuries. Open: Mon-Sat 10am-12.30pm/3.30pm7.30pm. San Marco, 3130 (Calle delle Botteghe). T: 041 5204900. Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop). Map E4 Antichità Zanutto Continuing a longstanding family tradition, in the 1970s, Vincenzo Zanutto chose San Marco to open his workshop specializing in antique paintings, with a particular focus on Venetian artists. Also offers evaluations and certified appraisals. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-12.30pm/4.30pm-7.30pm. San Marco, 2013 (Calle delle Veste, near the Teatro La Fenice). T: 041 5235359. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio or San Marco stop). Map E5

Alessandro Zoppi

Ca’ Nova Boasting over 40 years in the industry, Ca' Nova which means ‘new house’, has decorated several of Venice’s most elegant homes with its upholstery fabrics. Wallpaper, curtains, tablecloths and hand-woven sheets. Open Mon-Fri 9am12.30pm/3pm-7.30pm; Sat 9am-12.30pm. www. canovatessutitendaggi.com. San Marco, 4264/a (Campo San Luca). T: 041 5203834. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4 Franco Dell’Orto This well-known antique carpet gallery stocks a fabulous range of large Caucasian and Persian rugs, European tapestries and large-scale decorative pieces. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-12.30pm/3.30pm7.30pm; Sat 9.30am-12.30pm. www.francodellorto. com. San Marco, 2052/b (Calle delle Veste, near Teatro La Fenice). T: 041 5224736. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio or San Marco stop). Map E5

Franco Dell'Orto

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SHOPPING

Le Zoie Michele Dal Bon’s atelier is infused with personality. PASSION TIP This eclectic shop showcase rare antique watches and jewelry but also specializes in collections that are unlikely to be found elsewhere, including objects inspired by ancient ‘theriaca’, a medical concoction also known as Venice treacle. Open Tues-Sat 9.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. www.lezoie. com. San Polo, 1566 (Calle dei Boteri) T: 041 2758694. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3

Venezia, Le Stampe Turio

Libreria Antiquaria Linea d’Acqua Antique books and priceless prints focusing primarily on preservation and authentic bookbinding methods. PASSION TIP Specializes in 18th century illustrated books, maps and views of Venice and engravings by 18th century Venetian masters. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-12.30pm/3.30pm-7pm; Sat 10.30am12.30pm. www.lineadacqua.it. San Marco 3717/d (Calle della Mandola). T: 041 5224030. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4 Studio Arga The owner of Studio Arga, Gabriella Tallon’s expertise in Oriental and Asian antiques makes this gallery a must-visit reference point. Open by appointment. www.argainc.com. San Marco 3659/a (Calle della Verona corner of Rio Terà dei Assassini). T: 041 2411124. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto or San Samuele stop) and line 2 (San Marco stop). Map E4

Venetia Studium

Antichità Zanutto

Tessitura Luigi Bevilacqua Artisanal weavers specializing in the production of exquisite, decorative fabrics for furnishings and curtains. PASSION TIP A unique place! Since 1875, the company has practiced the art of weaving on original looms that once belonged to the Venetian School of Silk. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-4pm (Sat-Sun by appointment). www.luigi-bevilacqua.com. Santa Croce 1320. T: 041 721566. Vaporetto line 1 (Riva de Biasio stop). Map D3 Venetia Studium The Lando family’s mission is to create and sell “modern object that speak an ancient language”. Venetia Studium not only stocks a wide range of Fortuny® lamps but also splendid silk pillows, fabrics, handbags and other accessories inspired by the ambiences loved by Marià Fortuny. Open daily 10am-7pm. www.venetiastudium.com San Marco, 2425. T: 041 5236953. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto or Santa Maria del Giglio stop). Map E5

Ca' Nova

Venezia, Le Stampe Turio At this small, refined showroom, Camilla Nicolai continues a family tradition established at the end of the 19th century by her great grandfather Osvaldo Böhm. Stocks a wide selection of frames, antiques and handcrafted Venetian objet d’art. PASSION TIP Specializes in antique decorative prints. Open 10.30am-1pm/3.30pm-7pm. www.venezialestampe.it. San Marco, 4606 (Calle Teatro Goldoni). T: 041 5234318. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4

Antichi Splendori

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STROLLING THROUGH BURANO

VENETIANS

In addition to Murano and Torcello, this island on the Venetian Lagoon should not be missed. Loved (and widely photographed) by tourists, it is famous for its colourful houses, butter biscuits and above all, its handcrafted lace. BY STEFANO TRAINE

With a population of only three thousand inhabitants, the island’s row of houses, whose facades boast all the colours of the rainbow, make it one of the most picturesque places on earth! However, the origin of this tradition of painting the houses in bright colours was not only for aesthetic reasons. Legend has it that its fishermen, often confused by frequent banks of fog, devised a chromatic code that would help them identify their own landing piers more easily. . The island is also the capital of handmade lace, a craft kept alive for centuries by the wives of fishermen waiting for their husbands to return from sea. The work is extremely exacting, with each woman

specializing in a single stitch. Groups of women work diligently for days to produce items, whether large or small, of matchless beauty: trims for dresses, accessories, tablecloths, gloves, umbrellas and masks, all made from this delicate, white lace, crafted with a painstaking attention to detail that has lasted for centuries. While on the island, make sure to visit the Museum of LaceMaking (Piazza Galuppi, 187). Butter biscuits known as Buranelli are famous on the island and you'll be offered them wherever you go. However, this is not the only specialty that you’ll find. The island has a long-standing gastronomic tradition linked, above all, to fresh fish.

TRATTORIA DA ROMANO Run by the Barbaro family for four generations, this picturesque eatery has retained all of its timeless appeal. Recognized for more than fifty years as one of the few prestigious art restaurants in Venice, Romano manages the trattoria with his wife, Siora Gigia. Standouts include ancient Burano specialties, and the chef’s signature mixed grill cooked over wood. www.daromano.it Via Galuppi, 221. T: 041 730030. 40  W H E R E V E N I C E I J U N E 2018

HOW TO REACH BURANO Vaporetto line number 12 runs from the Venice-Fondamente Nove stop to Burano (1 hour). If you’re not in a hurry, the Venetians recommend taking line 14 from San Zaccaria (Pietà stop). Take a look at the venue where the Film Festival is held, and admire the MOSE flood barrier, the huge hydraulic engineering project designed to protect the lagoon.


LACES AND HANDICRAFT OF ART www.laceinvenice.com Via Galuppi, 287-376. T: 041 730009

More info: venice.whereitalia.com


DINING

Acquerello restaurant

The soul of Venice in watercolours Located in a unique panoramic position, Acquerello welcomes guests with a menu highlighting the excellence of Italian and Venetian tradition, focusing on unusual pairings. By Giulia Minero

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breathtaking view over the lagoon, the tranquility of a private island – the Island of San Clemente – a 10 minute boat ride from St. Mark’s Square and an elegant ambience. These are just some of the advantages of the Acquerello restaurant. Inside this venue, which is characterized by pastel colours, and curtains and mirrors crafted by well-known local artisans, architectural details and diverse decorative elements meet in a celebration of traditional Venetian style reinterpreted with contemporary touches. This combination of local elements and innovative flavours is also noticeable in its menu, which features the classics of 42  W H E R E V E N I C E I J U N E 2018

traditional Italian cuisine and Venetian specialties, highlighted by local flavours. These allude to La Serenissima’s strong ties with Mediterranean countries. Acquerello’s gourmet offerings, created by Executive Chef Giorgio Schifferegger, include Venetian meat and fish specialties made from the freshest seasonal ingredients, and mainstays of Italian tradition like homemade pizza and pasta, infused with unusual flavours. Guests who want to enjoy breathtaking sunset views over Venice’s skyline and the lagoon can sample the restaurant’s specialties on the panoramic terrace, just steps from the medieval church of San Clemente.

>> Acquerello c/o San Clemente Palace Kempinski kempinski.com/venice


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT VENICE.WHEREITALIA.COM

TASTING EXPERIENCE Enoteca Al Volto Excellent wine accompanied by traditional ‘cicchetti’ and Venetian fish specialties, Enoteca Al Volto invites diners into its warm, welcoming atmosphere. €. Open daily 11.30am-3pm and 6pm-10pm. San Marco, 4081 (Calle Cavalli). T: 041 5228945. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Zaccari stop). Map E4

L’Aciugheta Its fame and fortune stems from a soft, 7 cm long “paninello” (literally, “tiny sandwich”), stuffed with butter and two “aciughete” (skinless anchovies in oil). Other must-trys include its meatballs, croutons, stuffed chili peppers and freshly baked ‘pizzette’ topped with anchovies. €. Castello, 4357 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5224292. Vaporetto line 1, or 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Osteria alla Rivetta One of Venice best-known, most traditional “cicheteria” (but also a trattoria for lunch and dinner), it is a go-to address for wine tastings. Open daily 11am-10.30pm. €. Castello, 4625. T: 041 5287302. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4

TRADITIONAL ITALIAN CUISINE

liver, ‘granseola’, polenta with shrimp, a mixed fish fry with artichokes and seafood risotto. The restaurant offers a gluten free menu especially designed for coeliacs. Closed on Thursday. €€€. www.algiardinetto.it. Castello, 4928 (Salizada Zorzi). T: 041 5285332. Vaporetto line 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4

Sissi. A favourite haunt of artists, its charm and Venetian flavour have remained unaltered since it first opened in 1894. Standouts include its raw fish dishes and stewed cod fish with polenta. €€€. www. anticacarbonera.it. San Marco (Calle Bembo). T: 041 5225479. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4

Al Mercà

A typical trattoria, in business for over a century, it has a friendly, convivial atmosphere. This is a go-to address for foodies and connoisseurs of fine dining. Its excellent menu, enhanced by the freshest, top quality ingredients is accompanied by an astute selection of wines. Closed on Sundays and Mondays. €€€. www.antichecarampane.com. San Polo, 1911. T: 041 5240165. Vaporetto line 1 (RialtoMercato stop). Map E3

Highly sought-after, typical Venetian cuisine. Boasting an informal atmosphere, it is the perfect spot to relax with a soothing cocktail after a long day of sightseeing. €€€. Lido - Via E. Dandolo, 17. T: 041 2431663. Vaporetto 1, 2, 5.1, 5.2 (Lido stop). Map E3

Alla Madonna Established in 1954 and set in one of Venice’s most picturesque corners, the Rado family has run Alla Madonna since its inception. Its welcoming ambience, characterized by an ancient vineyard, provides the perfect backdrop for the typical regional cuisine served here. €€€. www. ristoranteallamadonna.com. San Polo, 594 (Calle della Madonna). T: 041 5223824. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E4

Antica Carbonera Homemade pasta, fresh fish and unusual decor: its interiors resemble those of the Miramar yacht that belonged to Franz Joseph II and Princess

Antiche Carampane

Antico Martini Located next to the La Fenice theatre, with its elegant dining rooms, welcoming atmosphere and attentive staff, the Antico Martini serves some of the best seafood in town. €€€. www.anticomartini. com. Campo Teatro Fenice 2007. T: 041 5224121. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).Map E5

Antico Pignolo The hand of owner Eligio Paties, is apparent in its beautifully laid tables and impeccable service. The traditional Venetian menu is accompanied by a well-

A Beccafico Arte It offers several dining spaces and a small inner courtyard. Its typical Venetian ambience, is low-key, contemporary and elegant, blending to perfection with its Sicilian-style cuisine. €€€. Closed on Tuesdays. www.abeccaficoarte.com. Cannaregio, 2289/C. T: 041 2759220. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E5

A la Vecia Cavana Set within the picturesque environment of an old restructured cavàna (a typical sloped building used to house boats), this restaurant serves delicious traditional Venetian and Italian cuisine. €€€. www. marsillifamiglia.it. Cannaregio, 4624 (Rio Terà SS. Apostoli). T: 041 5287106. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map F3

Acqua Pazza Set against the magical backdrop of Campo Sant’Angelo, it offers a great ‘al fresco’ dining experience under the stars. This small corner of Amalfi in Venice serves an array of tantalizing dishes. €€€. www.veniceacquapazza.com. San Marco, 3808. T: 041 2770688. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).Map E4

Al Colombo A meeting point since 1986 for an international clientele, its menu maintains all the hallmark features of traditional Venetian cuisine. In summer, guests can dine outside under the romantic light of Venice’s street lamps. €€€. www.alcolombo.com. San Marco, 4619. T: 041 5222627. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3

Al Giardinetto da Severino Set against the magnificent backdrop of the 15th century Palazzo Zorzi, the restaurant is listed as an ‘historical establishment of Venice’ and its dining room still features a vaulted ceiling and a frescoed firedplace. Its menu offers the best of traditional Venetian cuisine: baccalà, Venetian-style

L’Alcova's magical atmosphere Diners can enjoy traditional Venetian cuisine at the L’Alcova Restaurant with its splendid view overlooking the Grand Canal. The menu is accompanied by an extensive wine list featuring vintages from various Italian regions. The young and talented chef Damiano Bassano combines traditional Italian flavours with unique touches. Its exquisite interiors look onto Venice’s scenic waterfront and the Rialto Market. This magical location has inspired the chef who sources fresh ingredients from land and sea, offering diners dishes that are infused with his talented creativity. The ‘L’Incontro’ Bar is an ideal place to sample aperitivi and pre-and post-prandial drinks. Don’t miss the ‘Rooftop terrace’, a perfect location for cocktails and signature drinks at aperitivo time. This exclusive bar offers a variety of drinks, including traditional Spritzes, Bellinis and fruit cocktails (sourced from the nearby Rialto Market), an innovative idea based on the chef’s philosophy of natural, healthy cuisine. L’Alcova Restaurant c/o Ca’ Sagredo. Cannaregio 4198/99 (Campo Santa Sofia). T: 041 2413111. www.casagredohotel.com

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Top hotel restaurants Tradition, innovation and creativity: Where® highlights some culinary destinations to whet your appetite at several top hotels in Venice. By Stefania Vida

Terrazza Danieli Acquerello c/o San Clemente Palace Kempinski Venice. Isola di San Clemente, 1. T: 041 4750111. www.kempinski.com The gourmet cuisine of Acquerello restaurant enhances the flavours of Italian and Venetian tradition with creative and surprising combinations of Executive Chef Giorgio Schifferegger. PASSION TIP Its view is as breathtaking as its food: situated next to the XIIcentury church of San Clemente, the restaurant, boasting a large terrace, is located next to one of the island’s private landing stages. Open for dinner: 6.30 pm-10.30 pm. Hotel’s complimentary boat from piazza San Marco. Off Map

Aromi c/o Hilton Molino Stucky. Giudecca, 810. T: 041 2723311. www.molinostuckyhilton.it Here you can taste authentic Mediterranean cuisine, offering a choice of pasta, meat and seafood dishes, created using only the freshest ingredients based on traditional recipes. Recognized by well-known international gastronomic association “Chaine des Rotisseurs”, Aromi is the ideal spot to celebrate a special occasion. Open on a seasonal basis, the Aromi restaurant offers guests a summer terrace with a fabulous view over Venice and the Giudecca Canal. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Palanca stop). Map C6

Aman Venice Restaurant c/o Hotel Aman Venice. Palazzo Papadopoli. San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo). T: 041 2707333. www.aman.com The exclusive restaurant offers a delightfully unique menu, thanks to several specialties created by starred Milanese chef Davide Oldani, who infuses his culinary offerings with all the vibrancy of his ‘pop cuisine’. PASSION TIP Standouts, for those who haven’t yet tasted them, include his timeless ‘cipolla caramellata’ (‘caramelized onions’) and ‘Zafferano e riso’ (Saffron and rice’). Vaporetto line 1 (San Silvestro stop). Map E4

Canova c/o Baglioni Hotel Luna. San Marco, 1243. T: 041 5289840. www.baglionihotels.com Winner of the Fogher d’Oro and Gambero Rosso awards, the Canova boasts an intimate, elegant atmosphere. Chef Daniele Zennaro offers menus and tastings featuring the best of traditional Venetian cuisine. All dishes are made using only the freshest, high-quality ingredients, rounded off by a wine list offering a wide selection of national and international labels. Vaporetto line 1 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map F5

Antinoo’s c/o Centurion Palace Venezia. Dorsoduro, 173. T: 041 34281. www.sinahotels.com Fronting the Grand Canal, this is the ideal place for a romantic dinner, boasting a decidedly designer-style décor and a soft, evocative colour scheme. In addition to the à la carte menu you can also choose from a selection of typical gourmet Venetian dishes, the perfect way to soak up the flavours and atmospheres of the lagoon city. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map E5

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Club del Doge c/o The Gritti Palace. Campo Santa Maria del Giglio. T: 041 794611. www.clubdeldoge.com The restaurant welcomes guests for a romantic dinner or lunch overlooking the Grand Canal, where a welcoming ambience and authentic upscale cuisine make each culinary experience a truly special one. From April to October (weather permitting), guests can dine on its stunning panoramic terrace. Dining daytime (informal) 12pm-6pm. Dinner daily (formal) 7pm- 10pm. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio stop). Map E5

De Pisis c/o Hotel Bauer Palazzo. San Marco, 1413/d. T: 041 5207022. www.bauervenezia.com For a romantic canal side dinner, set against the backdrop of the historic Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute. Those in search of a more intimate experience can opt to dine in its elegant dining room, furnished with classic period pieces, reminiscent of the ancient pomp and splendour of the Serenissima. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 Do Leoni c/o Hotel Londra Palace. Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni). T: 041 5200533. www.londrapalace.com The Do Leoni restaurant, one of the temples of Venetian cuisine, pays homage to the symbols of Britain and of Venice. Chef Loris Indri combines the traditions of classic Venetian fare with more creative dishes, to titillate the palates of even the most discerning diners. The chef’s culinary art is further enhanced by its two atmospheric dining spaces: an indoor dining room whose decor includes artistic crystal and original paintings and its summer Veranda on the Riva degli Schiavoni. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4 Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco. T: 041 8521300 www.jwvenice.com Aptly named ‘Dopolavoro’, which means after work. The renowned name of Giancarlo Perbellini is behind this new restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private island - the Isola delle Rose, right out in the Venetian lagoon. After a day of business meetings or exploring Venice, enjoy delicious gourmet recipes with an individual flavour and skilful light touch - the true mark of a great chef. Off Map Glam c/o Palazzo Venart Santa Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron). T: 041 5233784. www.palazzovenart.com Headed by twice-Michelin starred chef Enrico Bartolini and located in a historic palazzo on the Grand Canal it offers an interpretation of contemporary Italian cuisine. Bartolini focuses on his experience and research-based use of locally-sourced Venetian ingredients and re-imagined with an innovative twist. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Stae stop). Map E3


DINING

Grand Canal c/o Hotel Monaco & Grand Canal San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. www.hotelmonaco.it A meeting place for gurus of the world of economy and finance, journalists and artists, actors and writers, it looks out directly over the Grand Canal. Both lively and intimate, its terrace combines the pleasures of the palate with an evocative view over the lagoon. Here you can enjoy the typical dishes of Venetian tradition, from the delicacies of the sea to the vegetables, expressed with maximum taste and harmony. Map F5 Il Giardino Segreto c/o Boscolo Venezia. Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto, 3500 (Calle Larga Piave). T: 041 2208110. www.venezia.boscolohotels.com Venice meeting point for lovers of fine cuisine. In an elegant and intimate atmosphere, you can enjoy international specialties and delicacies of the Italian cuisine, created by highly skilled chefs and accompanied by a wide selection of wines and champagnes. In the springtime and summer the blooming garden offers you a unique view for your lunch or for your very romantic dinner. Vaporetto line 4.2 or 5.2 (Orto stop). Map E1

L’Alcova c/o Ca’ Sagredo Hotel. Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99. T: 041 2413111. www.casagredohotel.com Boasting a magnificent panoramic terrace over the Grand Canal, L’Alcova is ‘the’ temple of traditional Venetian cuisine for real connoisseurs. PASSION TIP Its dining room faces directly over the Canal, in front of the historic Rialto Market, from which the restaurant sources the ingredients for its menus, accompanied by an astute selection of wines from various regions of Italy. Open: lunch 12pm2.30pm, dinner 7pm-10pm. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E3 La Caravella c/o Hotel Saturnia Calle Larga XXII Marzo, 2399. T: 041 5208901. www.restaurantlacaravella.com Opened in 1963, it completes the services offered by the Hotel Saturnia with a touch of culinary excellence thanks to its fabulous Venetian cuisine updated with a contemporary, gourmet twist. Its evocative, romantic ambience conjures up the colours and furnishings of an ancient Venetian vessel. In summer, guests can dine ‘al fresco’ in its picturesque, internal Venetian courtyard. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map E5

La Cusina c/o The Westin Europa & Regina San Marco 2159. T: 041 2400001. www.lacusina.it For a regenerating lunch break or for a romantic dinner, La Cusina is the ideal place to enjoy a combination of taste and relaxation. Choose a table overlooking the Grand Canal to enjoy a panoramic view of the city’s historic architecture, while savouring the restaurant’s seasonal dishes which enhance the rich local flavours of Venice and the islands of the lagoon. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5 Le Maschere c/o Starhotels Splendid Venice. San Marco Mercerie, 760. T: 041 5200755. www.starhotels.com Loved and patronized by Venetian locals, it is set against the backdrop of a luminous ‘Campiello’, a typical Venetian courtyard. Here you can sample authentic Venetian cuisine, featuring both meat and fish-based dishes. A truly gourmet experience, guaranteed by its partnership with Eataly, makes Le Maschere one of the most unique and original restaurants in Venice. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4 Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801. www.belmond.com Experience Venice’s top taste sensation at this enchanting Michelin-starred restaurant. Oro reflects the romantic spirit of Venice: take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant takes its name, and try the specialties inspired by Italian tradition. Vaporetto line 4.1 (Zitelle stop). Map F6

Pisanino

Do Leoni

Pisanino c/o Palazzetto Pisani San Marco, 2814. T: 041 5232550. www.palazzettopisani.com Located in the noble floor of Palazzetto Pisani, facing the Grand Canal, here you can savor refined Italian and gourmet food in a typically Venetian ambient. Particular events are often organized in this space. Moreover, try out the Balcony experience, a romantic and unique experience just for two persons on a private balcony facing the Grand Canal, simply enjoy an aperitivo in Venetian style, an exclusive dinner or even a continental breakfast. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Accademia stop). Map E5 Terrazza Danieli c/o Hotel Danieli Riva degli Schiavoni, 4196. T: 041 5226480. www.terrazzadanieli.com A trip to discover traditional flavours. Executive Chef Dario Parascandolo will treat you to an exclusive gourmet experience, with a menu featuring locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. Don’t miss the breathtaking view over the lagoon. Vaporetto line 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

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DINING

Michelin-starred restaurants

Oro

Quadri

Met

Are you in search of a real Venetian tasting experience? Where® brings you a round-up of Michelin-starred restaurants for true connoisseurs of taste! By Stefania Vida Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco T: 041 8521300 www.jwvenice.com Aptly named ‘Dopolavoro’, which means after work. The renowned name of Giancarlo Perbellini is behind this new restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private island - the Isola delle Rose, right out in the Venetian lagoon. After a day of business meetings or exploring Venice, enjoy delicious gourmet recipes with an individual flavour and skilful light touch - the true mark of a great chef. Off Map Glam c/o Palazzo Venart. Santa Croce, 1961. T: 041 5235676 www.palazzovenart.com/en/restaurant-bar Set within a secluded corner of Venice and located in a prime position overlooking the Grand Canal,

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the Glam is situated inside Palazzo Venart. Just one year after it opened, it was awarded its first Michelin star in November 2017. The brainchild behind its menu is Enrico Bartolini, Italy’s youngest chef. Helmed by resident chef Donato Ascani, the restaurant serves traditional Venetian dishes upgraded with a futuristic twist and enriched with contemporary pairings that intensify the fabulous flavours of the Lagoon. Glam can host up to 40 guests indoors or al fresco. Map E3 Il Ridotto Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo, 4509. T: 041 5208280 www.ilridotto.com Located just steps from San Marco, Il Ridotto, 'reduced' in Italian, refers to the size of this tiny, gracious restaurant. The innovative menu employing traditional elements is revised daily, with the offerings tending toward lighter, but wonderfully tasty versions of classic dishes. A particular characteristic? It only has 9 tables. Map F4

Met Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149. T: 041 5240034 www.hotelmetropole.com Located inside the Metropole hotel, the Met Restaurant is a pioneer of a new concept targeted at promoting the Italian region. Its menu features recipes based on traditional Italian gastronomy served in two versions: either classical or upgraded with a creative twist, served in unusual but never excessive combinations. Its carefully prepared dishes are full of flavour and presented in a bright, colourful way. Map G4 Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani Giudecca, 10 T: 041 240801 www.belmond.com A jewel in the crown of Belmond Hotel Cipriani, experience Venice’s top taste sensation at this enchanting Michelin-starred restaurant. Oro reflects the romantic spirit of Venice: take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant draws its name, and try the specialities inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6


Osteria da Fiore San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308 www.dafiore.net An Osteria only by name because this is actually an elegant, starred restaurant. Its cuisine ranges from the most authentic traditional flavours interpreted in a modern-day key (meaning that offerings tend to be lighter) to more unusual dishes invented by the chef, intended to be as close to nature as possible thanks to a great selection of highly sought-after seasonal ingredients. Ask for a wine recommendation from its excellent wine list which also features several international labels. Map E3 Quadri Piazza San Marco, 121. T: 041 5222105 www.alajmo.it A real institution of Venetian taste, starting from its decor. The restaurant – with the Quadrino and Grancaffè Quadri on the ground floor – has recently reopened after a major restoration by Philippe Stark: triumph of stucco, Murano glass and precious fabrics housed in one of the most photographed ‘palazzi’ in the city. Its menu features intriguing, creative dishes that are beautifully presented... without forgetting its spectacular view over piazza San Marco. Map F4

Glam

Dopolavoro

Venissa Fondamenta S. Caterina, 3 (Mazzorbo) T: 041 5272281 www.venissa.it On the one hand its vegetable gardens and vineyards, and, on the other, its cuisine featuring an intoxicating meld of locally sourced ingredients. Its bucolic surroundings serve as the ideal backdrop to its authentic, typically Venetian cuisine lovingly prepared by its four chefs who only use fresh, seasonal ingredients. Off Map

Venissa

Il Ridotto

Osteria da Fiore

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Top coffee and pastry shops Whether you’re in search of a cup of coffee, a snack or an aperitivo, Venice offers an incredible variety of bars and pastry shops, where you can stop after a long day’s sightseeing. Where® offers you a pick of the best places to take a relaxing break, from the most modern venues to more historic locations boasting a retro atmosphere for a real trip back in time By Stefania Vida www.lavena.it. Piazza San Marco, 133/134. T: 041 5224070. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).

Caffè Florian

Caffè Florian - One of Venice’s most famous cafés with its glittering neo-Baroque décor and attractive 19th century wall panels, Caffè Florian is located in the heart of St. Mark’s Square. The oldest café in Italy, Florian is steeped in history. Opened on 29 December 1720 by Floriano Francesconi, under the name of ‘Alla Venezia Trionfante’, it was simply re-christened Florian by its regulars, who included celebrities such as Casanova, Goldoni, Canaletto and Guardi. www.caffeflorian.com. Piazza San Marco, 57. T: 041 5205641. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Caffè Lavena - Since 1750, Caffè Lavena, situated in a corner at the foot of the Clock Tower in front of the Basilica, has been one of the most renowned coffee shops in Venice. Known by the Venetians of those days as the ‘Caffè dei Foresti’ (The Foreigners’ cafè), it was mainly frequented by an international clientele.

stocked cellar boasting more than 900 labels from all over the world. €€€. www.anticopignolo.com. San Marco, 451 (Calle degli Specchieri). T: 041 5228123. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Da Fiore A renowned Venetian restaurant that offers topnotch cuisine in a sophisticated, elegant setting. Thirty-five years ago, Mara and Maurizio Martin transformed an old osteria into one of the city’s most famous restaurants. Impeccable service and superlative Venetian dishes composed of carefully selected seasonal ingredients have made Da Fiore a must-visit destination. Closed on Mondays. €€€. www.dafiore.net. San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3

Gran Canal Here you can taste the typical specialties of Venetian 48  W H E R E V E N I C E I J U N E 2018

Dal Mas Located just a few minutes from the railway station, this pastry shop offers a triumph of traditional sweet treats for breakfast (in addition to croissants, try their ‘zaleti’, ‘pan dei Dogi’ and ‘sbreghettine’). Those with a sweet tooth will be delighted to know that Dal Mas is also a chocolate shop where you can find single servings of mousse, mini Sacher torte, ‘cannoli’ and brightlycoloured macarons. www.cioccolateriadalmas. com. Cannaregio, 149/a (Rio Terà Lista de Spagna), a few metres from the St. Lucia Station. T: 041 715101. Gran Caffè Quadri - Nestling in St. Mark’s Square, with its ornate stucco mouldings, 18th-century murals, huge mirrors and polished wooden furniture, Quadri is every inch the historical café. People, including habitués like Stendhal, Wagner, Proust and Woody Allen, have been drinking at this historic venue since 1638. www.alajmo.it. Piazza San Marco, 121. T: 041 5222105. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Harry’s Bar - Founded in the 1930s, this legendary bar is renowned for its Bellini cocktails and for being the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of almost every famous name to visit Venice. Today, it is still a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice, a perfect opportunity to step back in time and savour its slightly retro and incredibly fascinating atmosphere. An ideal venue at any time of day, either for lunch or dinner, but also for a truly trademark aperitivo! www.harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco,

tradition, featuring the purest expression of taste and harmony. The restaurant’s main focus is on seafood and vegetables. Don’t miss a dinner on its evocative terrace: the restaurant faces directly onto the Grand Canal offering diners an excellent opportunity to combine the pleasures of the palate with a stunning view over Venice’s lagoon. Open: lunch 12.30pm-2.30pm, dinner 7.30pm-11.30pm €€€. www. hotelmonaco.it. c/o Hotel Monaco&Gran Canal. San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Map F5

Harry’s Bar Founded in the 1930s, this legendary bar is renowned for its Bellini cocktails (originally invented here) and for being the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of almost every famous name to visit Venice. Today, It is still a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice, a perfect opportunity to step back in time and savour its slightly retro and incredibly fascinating atmosphere. www.harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco, 1323 (Calle

1323 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Vallaresso stop). Harry’s Dolci - Harry's Dolci, a bar and restaurant, offers a peaceful view of the Canal with outdoor tables facing the Giudecca Canal. The people at the famed Harry's Dolci have established their latest enclave on this rarely visited island, far from the madding crowds of Piazza San Marco. From the quayside windows of this chic place, you can watch seagoing vessels, from yachts to lagoon barges. cipriani.com. Fondamenta S. Biagio, 773 (Giudecca). T: 041 5224844. Vaporetto linea 4.1 (Palanca stop). Pasticceria Italo Didovich - Should you find yourself in the vicinity of Campo Santa Marina (just a little off the beaten tourist track), make a beeline for this excellent pastry shop, which has stood here for the past 40 years. In addition to ‘frolle’ and rice and almond pastries, it also offers several tantalizing delicacies Castello. Campo Santa Marina. T: 041 5230017. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Pasticceria Rosa Salva - This institution has three separate shops in Venice. The first is in San MarcoCalle Fiubera: its historic headquarters, permeated by the aromas of its nearby pastry kitchen. The next is in San Marco-Mercerie: aperitivi and quick snacks that can be enjoyed in between browsing the shops lining le Mercerie, the shopping street that connects the Rialto to St. Mark’s Square. The last is in Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo. www.rosasalva.it. San Marco (Calle Fiubera), T: 041 5210544. San Marco (Mercerie), T: 041 5227934. Castello (Campo San Giovanni e Paolo), T: 041 5227949. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Rizzardini - Since 1742, the traditional sweet treats sold at this pastry shop have tempted the palates of Venetian locals and visitors alike, thanks to the high quality of its products, its atmosphere and eye-catching window displays. Must-try’s include its biscuits and, at Carnival, its utterly delectable ‘fritole’ , small fried doughnuts. San Polo, 1415. T: 041 5223835. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato or San Silvestro stop).

Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto 1 (Rialto stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

Il Nuovo Galeon Located on via Garibaldi, near the Giardini della Biennale and just behind the Arsenal, this restaurant is mainly frequented by Venetians. A typical, familyrun restaurant with an outdoor terrace (summer), its attractive interior is characterized by typical nautical décor, including the hull of a ‘bragozzo’, a typical fishing boat built by Crea, the famous Venetian rowing champion. €€€. www.ilnuovogaleon.com. Castello, 1308, T: 041 5204656. Vaporetto 5.1 or 5.2 (Giardini stop). Map H5

La Calcina Take a seat at its welcoming indoor dining room, or on the magnificent panoramic terrace overlooking the Giudecca Canal. At La Calcina you can savour traditional Venetian and Mediterranean dishes paired with wines selected from amongst the best


DINING

Kosher in Venice If you are already familiar with Jewish dietary laws, or want to try a new ‘kosher’ gastronomic experience, here are some great addresses that will not disappoint! By Stefania Vida

Italian labels. Vegetarian meals are also served. €€€. www.lacalcina.com. c/o Hotel La Calcina. Dorsoduro, 780 (Zattere). T: 041 5206466. Vaporetto line 2 or 5.1 (Zattere stop). Map E6

La Conca d’Oro Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, La Conca d’Oro was established by Sicilian brothers Giuseppe and Giovanni Costa, the founders of the first pizzeria in Northern Italy. Since that time, this Venetian institution has been turning out some of the best pizza in town. € (pizzeria) - €€€ (restaurant). www.concadorovenice.com. Castello, 4338 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5229293. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 , 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

La Porta d’Acqua Set just steps from the Rialto Bridge, the restaurant is housed in a 15th century building and decorated with original frescoes dating back to 1700. Its cuisine conjures up the aroma of authentic Neapolitan cuisine, thanks to ingredients sourced exclusively from Campani. €€€. www.laportadacqua.it. San Polo, 1022/b (Rio Terà San Silvestro). T: 041 2412124. Vaporetto 1 (San Silvestro stop). Map E4

Lineadombra Perched on the last bridge of the most beautiful promenade in Venice, le Zattere, this is the perfect spot for a romantic dinner where you can enjoy all the typical flavours of the Venetian lagoon. €€€. www.ristorantelineadombra.com. Dorsoduro, 19. T: 041 2411881. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Zattere stop) or 1 (Salute stop). Map E5

KOSHER RESTAURANT GHIMEL GARDEN The restaurant offers kosher specialties and typical fish-based dishes. Halav. Lemehadrin. The menu is accompanied by a great selection of strictly kosher wines. Open daily from 9.30am to 11pm. Serves Shabbat dinners on Friday evenings and at lunch on Saturdays strictly subject to reservation. ghimelgarden.com. Cannaregio, 2873/c (Campo del Ghetto Nuovo). T: 041 8226131.

Locanda Cipriani For those who want to be close to Venice, yet feel worlds away, the Locanda Cipriani is a superb, romantic hideaway. Featuring a simple yet evocative atmosphere, it is popular among knowledgeable gourmets as a fantastic

restaurant. A farmhouse from the exterior, it has been renovated with great charm, exuding an understated elegance with beautiful country antiques and fresh flowers. €€€. www. locandacipriani.com. Piazza Santa Fosca 29 (Torcello island). T: 041 730150. Vaporetto line 12 from Fondamente Nove direction Burano, then take the 9 line). Off Map

Taverna al Remer Located near to the Rialto Bridge, this romantic ‘taverna’ is distinguished by its open-brick decor, which lends it an intimate, informal touch. Although the menu features simple, traditional dishes, it often surprises diners with unusual pairings. Closed on Wednesdays. €€€. www. alremer.it. Cannaregio, 5701. T. 041 5228789. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop).

Map F3

Trattoria Do Forni The owner Eligio Paties has managed to make this restaurant a sought-after destination, distinguished by its wide assortment of Venetian fare, thanks to the quality of the dishes and a genuine sense of typically Venetian hospitality. The dining spaces will remind you of the carriages of the legendary “Orient Express” and pay tribute to the history of Venice. €€€. www.doforni.it. San Marco, 468 (Calle dei Specchieri). T: 041 5232148. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4

Wildner Opened by the Fullin family in 1960, it is patronized by locals and tourists alike. Its tranquil, relaxed atmosphere is further enhanced by a spectacular view over the Basin of St. Mark’s. Its menu is mainly fish-based and serves classic Venetian specialties including ‘Baccalà Mantecato’ and ‘Sarde in Saor’. Closed on Tuesdays. €€€. c/o Pensione Wildner. Castello, 4161. T: 041 5227463. Vaporetto line 4.1 or 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4

KOSHER HOUSE GIARDINO DEI MELOGRANI Located just a 10-minute walk from the Santa Lucia Railway Station, this is the only kosher residence in Venice. Nestling in the heart of Venice’s Ghetto, it is equipped with all the necessary accoutrements for the strict observance of Kasheruth and Halacha. www.pardesrimonim.net. Cannaregio, 2873. T: 041 8226131. CAFFETTERIA DEL MUSEO EBRAICO DI VENEZIA Indulge in a flavoursome break at the cafè of Venice’s famous Jewish Museum. Situated in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo, the venue is set between two of Venice’s oldest synagogues. Halav. Cannaregio, 2902 (Campo del Ghetto Nuovo). T: 340 1046858.

AMAN VENICE RESTAURANT Set in a 16th-century palazzo on the Grand Canal, the Aman Venice Restaurant serves Italian cuisine amid sumptuous decor. Seasonal ingredients and locally sourced delicacies create the finest examples of market-to-table dining.

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PHOTO © DE LUNA

SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Giacomo Casanova. Beyond seduction The famous Venetian polymath has more than one biographical surprise in store. Two hundred and twenty years after his death, a museum has been dedicated to him in his city of birth. By Elena Peverata

T

his is not a traditional museum with relics, artifacts and memorabilia arranged in chronological order; the Casanova Museum & Experience focuses on the Casanova ‘Experience’ highlighting the innovative approach of this brand new and unusual place of cultural learning. The museum is dedicated to the persona and life of Giacomo Casanova and offers visitors a unique opportunity to acquaint themselves with this extraordinary era, a joyful time of enlightenment that disappeared shortly afterwards. To achieve this, it uses the character of Casanova, who narrates his

adventures firsthand, taking visitors on an emotional, multi-media journey, allowing them to relive the atmosphere of 18th century Venice and Europe. Casanova was a master of seduction, a libertine, writer and an adventurer, but he was also an alchemist, diplomat, philosopher and a secret agent. All the aspects and experiences of history’s most famous womanizer are explored through images, sets, reconstructions, immersive rooms and interactive spaces. Visitors will find themselves conversing with Voltaire about philosophical matters, contriving political intrigues with Madame de Pompadour and listening to an

A mix of virtual experiences and immersive surroundings

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opera by Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart as if these luminaries were their contemporaries. The exhibition ends in the room, which was possibly the most representative of Casanova’s life: the bedroom. Here, amidst silks and damasks, visitors can admire a real 18th-century alcove. The Casanova Museum & Experience is located in Venice’s 15th century Palazzo Pesaro Papafava in the sestiere of Cannaregio. >> Casanova Museum & Experience Open daily 10am-8pm (last entrance 7.15pm). www.casanovamuseum.com Ca’ Pesaro Papafava, Cannaregio 3764 (Calle de la Racheta). T: 041 2379736.


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT VENICE.WHEREITALIA.COM

ATTRACTIONS & MONUMENTS Basilica del Redentore

Peggy Guggenheim Collection

Based on a project by the famous architect Andrea Palladio, the Basilica was built in 1577 on the island of Giudecca. It contains works by Tintoretto, Veronese and other important Venetian artists. It was built to celebrate the deliverance from the Black Death, which killed one third of the population. To commemorate the end of the plague, a solemn festival is still held at the church on the third Sunday of July. www. chorusvenezia.org. Campo Redentore (Giudecca). T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 41 and 2 (Redentore stop). Map E6

Basilica di San Marco This is the most important Catholic church in the city, and one of the most important monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. The famous winged lion, a symbol of the city and of the ancient ‘Venetian Republic’ is depicted on its pediment. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. You might have to queue for a time to get inside, but your wait will be well worthwhile. Although admission is free, you will have to pay to see several specific sights. In order not to miss your visit, be sure to inform yourself about the opening hours, as they are often subject to change. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-4pm; Sun (and Public Holidays) 2pm-4pm. www.basilicasanmarco.it. San Marco, 328. T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

Campanile di San Marco (Bell Tower) This 98.6 metre bell tower is affectionately known to the Venetians as ‘el paron de casa’ (the master of the house) because it dominates the city, observing everything that lies below it. Resting lightly on the exquisite Loggetta del Sansovino, it has a particularly recognizable shape and a rich history. The original medieval bell tower was modified several times, and rebuilt entirely when it unexpectedly collapsed in 1902. It is worth going up to the tower, to enjoy a breathtaking view over the city. Although admission is not free, it is often included in joint tickets. Opening times are subject to change. T: 041 5225205. Vaporetto lines 1,2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

Canal Grande (Grand Canal) Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the main waterway of Venice and much more. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels, and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. For centuries, the Canal has witnessed lavish parties and workshop events, religious processions, capital executions, historical regattas and epidemics. Those visiting Venice should dedicate a few hours to a cruise on the Canal, not only for the pleasure of this experience, but because it offers several of the best panoramic views of Venetian palaces. It is is almost impossible to list all of them, but for more information you can visit the www. canalgrandevenezia.it website. For excursions and

Located on the left-hand side of the Grand Canal, just beyond the Church of the Madonna della Salute, you will come across a building that seems strange and unfinished, but is also elegant and well-tended. The Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, formerly home to the prominent and powerful Venier family, was originally planned to become one of the most sumptuous buildings in Venice. Construction of the palazzo began in or around 1748, but was halted after only one floor was completed. Undeterred by its rather sketchy shape, and upon seeing the palazzo with its beautiful garden, eccentric American heiress Peggy Guggenheim, a lover of modern art, la dolce vita and men, fell in love with it. She purchased Palazzo Venier in 1948, and moved in with her collection of boat cruises visit www.canalgrande.it, or ask your concierge.

Chiesa and Scuola Grande di San Rocco A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures, including an impressive number of works by Tintoretto as well those by Tiepolo and Giorgione. Opening hours subject to change www.scuolagrandesanrocco.org. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Ghetto di Venezia Although documentation chronicles the presence of a Jewish community in Venice from before the year 1000, it was only during the 6th century, due to political unrest in Europe and a significant increase in non-Christian immigrants that, for the first time, the Venetian Senate, issued a decree stating that the Jewish population should move to a specific part of the city, where they could

contemporary art, subsequently opening both the palazzo and her extraordinary collection of artworks to the public. In 1980, after her death, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection was bequeathed to the Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation, which also manages the Solomon R. Guggenheim in New York and the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao. In 1985, Palazzo Venier dei Leoni was officially converted into a museum. Today, thanks to its 20th century collection of art, it is considered one of the most important museums in Europe. The collection includes masterpieces of Cubism, Futurism, European Abstractism, American Abstract Surrealism and Expressionism, as well as works by illustrious artists like Picasso, Pollock, Kandinsky, Miró, de Chirico and Dalí. It also hosts prestigious temporary exhibitions. be better ‘controlled’. Thus Jews were forced to move to this, then, remote northwestern corner of Venice, to an abandoned site of a 14thcentury foundry (‘ghetto’ is old Venetian dialect for "foundry," a word that would soon be used throughout Europe and the world to depict an area where isolated minority groups lived. The Venetian Ghetto nevertheless became a thriving, vibrant district. In 1797, when Napoleon rolled into town, the ghetto was disbanded as an institution, and Jews were free to move elsewhere. Today it is still the center of Venice's ever-diminishing community of Jewish families. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1 (Ponte Guglie stop). Map D2

Palazzo Ca’ Vendramin Calergi (Casinò di Venezia) Overlooking the Grand Canal, this building houses the oldest casino in the world. An ageold destination, for aristocratic travelers from both East and West, Venice was the first city in the world to open a gaming house way back in 1683. Today its old-world ambience continues to play host to several of the world’s most classical games. The casino is open to everyone w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com  51


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MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

aged 18 and over and proper attire is required. www.casinovenezia.it. Cannaregio, 2040 (Calle Colombina). Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marcuola stop). Map E3

Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square) Known throughout the world, this square is the heart of Venice and its most symbolic landmark. It consists of a central, trapezoid-shaped unit integrated with other areas. Measuring 170 metres in length, it faces directly onto the water and is surrounded by several magnificent stately buildings. Its incalculable scenic beauty makes it one of the most widely-photographed places in the world. The best thing to do here is to look around and exult, but don’t forget that the square has a number of specific landmark sites, whose interiors can also be visited: the Basilica of San Marco (see listing), the Bell Tower (see listing), Palazzo Ducale (see Museums listings), the Clock Tower (see listing) and some 18th century cafés, the Florian and the Quadri, to mention the bestknown... Vaporetto lines, 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs) The Bridge of Sighs is a Baroque bridge that, by crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from which its name derives are not those of lovers, but those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. Open daily 8.30am7pm. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 31024 (piazza San Marco). T:041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1,2, (San Marco stop). Map F4

Ponte di Rialto (Rialto Bridge) This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Witness to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it (shutterbugs permitting), but even more spectacular when seen from the water, perhaps aboard a gondola. Originally built during medieval times as a pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular

Rialto Market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. Unfortunately, it is not accessible to everyone; between upward and downward slopes, it includes as many as 120 steps. San Polo, 30125 (access from Ruga dei Oresi or from Salizada Pio X). Vaporetto linea 1,2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

addition to two paintings by Titian, the tombs and funerary monuments of numerous famous people, including Titian, Monteverdi and Canova. chorusvenezia.org. Campo dei Frari. T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 1, 2, N (San Tomà stop). Map D4

San Giorgio Maggiore

One of the city’s most important examples of medieval architecture, Santi Giovanni e Paolo is considered the Pantheon of Venice because all the Venetian doges, starting from the 13th century, are buried here, together with numerous other notable personages. www. basilicasantigiovanniepaolo.it. Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo (Please note: this site might be marked in Venetian dialect as ‘san ZaniPolo’ on the city’s maps). T: 041 5235913. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Fondamente Nove stop, Ospedale Civile stop). Map F3

Boasting a monastery and an adjoining museum (see Museum listings), the church of San Giorgio Maggiore sits on the little island of San Giorgio Maggiore across from St. Mark's square. One of the masterpieces of Andrea Palladio, the church, and the entire complex, which holds a number of marvelous surprises including a maze, is worth visiting. This small island, that is a part of the panorama that can be enjoyed from St. Mark's square, is separated from the Giudecca by the lagoon island of La Grazia. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 5227827. Vaporetto line 2 (San Giorgio stop). Map G5

Santa Maria della Salute (Church of the Virgin Mary of Good Health) Generally referred to as “La Salute,” this crown jewel of 17th-century baroque architecture proudly stands at a commercially and aesthetically important point, almost directly opposite the Piazza San Marco, where the Grand Canal empties into the lagoon. Designed by Longhena, whose work was influenced by Palladio, it was constructed to honor the Virgin Mary for delivering Venice from the plague of 1630. On 21 November each year, a popular religious celebration, marking the official end of the Black Death, is held here. The church is also famous for its organ concerts. Open daily 9am12noon/3pm-5.30pm. www.basilicasalutevenezia. it. Fondamenta Salute, 30123. T: 041 2743911. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map E5

Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari Known by the Venetians simply as ‘i Frari’, this landmark features 17 monumental altars and is the largest church in the city. This medieval church in Gothic-Venetian style, houses, in

Santi Giovanni e Paolo

Scala Contarini del Bovolo Palazzo Contarini is an exquisite, late Gothic building. However, what makes it such a popular attraction today, was the addition, by its architects, in 1499, of an amazing, external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. Open Tues-Sun: 10am-1.30pm/2pm6pm. www.scalacontarinidelbovolo.com. c/o Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo. San Marco, 4299 (Campo Manin, Rio San Luca). T: 041 3096605. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map E4

Teatro La Fenice Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only strongly associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it is also a stunning feat of architecture.

EDITOR'S TIP

11 MUSEUMS, 1 TICKET

Full price ticket €24 > This ticket is valid for: the Museum of St Mark's Square (Doge's Palace, Museo Correr, Museo Archeologico Nazionale, Monumental Rooms of the Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana), Ca' Rezzonico-Museum of 18th-Century Art, Museum of Palazzo Mocenigo and Museum of Textiles and Costumes, Carlo Goldoni's House, Ca' Pesaro-International Gallery of Modern Art + Oriental Art Museum, Glass Museum in Murano, Lace Museum in Burano and Museum of Natural History. Info & Reservations: www.visitmuve.it Call center 848 082000. From abroad +39 041 42730892. 52  W H E R E V E N I C E I J U N E 2018

Doge's Palace

PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK

The Museum Pass is a combined ticket that offers access to all the permanent collections of Venice’s civic and affiliated museums. The Pass is valid for 6 months and allows one entry per museum site.


MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

teatrolafenice.it. Ticket office T: 041 2424. San Marco, 1965 (Campo San Fantin). Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E4

The islands

| SIGHTSEEING

FREE ADMISSION TO STATE MUSEUMS

Although the whole of Venice lies on an archipelago, an ‘excursion to the islands’ generally means a half-day cruise on a boat to visit the islands of Murano, Torcello and Burano, three charming, small islands, rich in history and tradition. Murano is famous throughout the world for its hand-blown glass (artisanal workshops still display glassmakers at work). Torcello, birthplace of the lagoon, once a thriving town with 8,000 inhabitants, is today a semi-rural island with only 17 permanent residents and two medieval churches that speak poignantly of past glories, and Burano, one of the most photographed sights in the world, thanks to colourful houses reflected in its canals. Burano is also famous for its artisanal lace work and a particular kind of biscuit, which also resembles lace. Find out more and buy tickets for your trip to these magical destinations. Visitors love these islands, and there may be a risk of not finding a seat on the boat. See Map page 62.

MUSEUMS & EXHIBITION SITES Ca’ Pesaro-International Gallery of Modern Art Hosts important 19th and 20th century collections of paintings and sculptures, including masterpieces by Klimt and Chagall as well as noteworthy oeuvres by the likes of Kandinsky, Klee, Matisse and Moore. Other highlights include a rich selection of works by Italian artists and an important selection of graphics. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10. www.capesaro.visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 2076. Vaporetto line 2 (San Stae stop). Map E3

Ca’ Rezzonico-Museum of Eighteenth Century Venetian Art The large staircase of this magnificent palazzo leads to several elegant rooms housing paintings, sculptures and 18th century furnishings (first floor): the ‘Portego dei dipinti’ featuring canvases by Canaletto, a room dedicated to Longhi and the frescoes painted by Giandomenico Tiepolo detached from the walls of Villa Zianigo (second floor); the rooms of the Farmacia Ai do San Marchi and the exquisite Pinacoteca Egidio Martini (third floor). Alternately, the Browning Mezzanine houses the works of the Mestrovich Collection, including works by artists like Tintoretto and Bonifacio de’ Pitati. Closed on Tues, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10. www.carezzonico. visitmuve.it. Dorsoduro 3136 (Fondamenta Rezzonico). T: 041 2410100. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). Map D5

Fondazione Cini-San Giorgio Maggiore Set against the magnificent backdrop of the Basin of St Mark, the Foundation was established in 1951 by Count Vittorio Cini to restore the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore and to create an international centre of cultural activities. The Foundation is housed in the monumental complex of the former Benedictine Monastery of San Giorgio Maggiore, a place of inestimable architectural and artistic prestige, thanks to works by several of Italy’s greatest 16th and 17th century masters. Enlarged in the 16th century by Andrea Palladio,

Ca' d'Oro Every first Sunday of the month, more than 450 museums and archaeological sites across Italy open their doors to the public free of charge. Venice, like many other cities in the country, has joined this initiative promoted by the Ministry of Cultural Heritage by offering free admission to the museums listed below on Sunday 3 June. Gallerie dell’Accademia www.gallerieaccademia.org Dorsoduro, 1050 (Campo della Carità) Open Mon 8.15-2pm and Tues-Sun 8.15-7.15pm.

Museo di Palazzo Grimani www.palazzogrimani.org Castello, 4858. Open daily 10am-5pm. Museo Nazionale di Villa Pisani (National Museum Villa Pisani) www.villapisani.beniculturali.it Via Doge Pisani 7, Stra (20 minutes from Venice) Open Tues-Sun 9am-5pm.

Galleria Giorgio Franchetti alla Ca’ d’Oro (Giorgio Franchetti Gallery at Ca’ d’Oro). www.cadoro.org Cannaregio, 3932. Open Mon 8.15am-6.45pm and Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Museo d’Arte Orientale (Oriental Art Museum). www.arteorientale.org Santa Croce, 2076. Open Tues-Sun 10am-5pm. Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Venezia (National Archaeological Museum of Venice) www.polomuseale.venezia.beniculturali.it Piazzetta San Marco, 17/52. Open daily 10am-5pm.

Palazzo Grimani, Chamber of Apollo

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PALAZZO CINI-LA GALLERIA This elegant house-museum hosts an impressive selection of Italian paintings, sculptures and objet d’art dating from the 13th through 16th centuries, including this tempera on a wood panel by Sandro Botticelli (1455-1510) titled ‘The Judgement of Paris’.

who also designed its refectory, the church of San Giorgio Maggiore and the Cloister of Cypresses, in addition to numerous other treasures, the complex hosts an impressive collection of paintings by Jacopo Tintoretto, as well as several 16th and 17th century works of arts. Guided tours in Italian, English and French on Saturdays and Sundays. For information and booking T: 041 2201215. Full price ticket €10. www.cini.it. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 2710280. Vaporetto line 2 (Isola di San Giorgio stop). Map G6

Gallerie dell'Accademia di Venezia

VENETIAN MUSEUM HUB Following a Napoleonic decree, the Gallerie dell'Accademia were instituted as an educational adjunct to the Academy of Fine Arts. They host the most important collection of Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo, and works by several important landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The monumental complex hosting these works occupies the ancient church of Santa Maria della Carità, the Scuola Grande della Carità and the Canonici Lateranensi convent complex designed by Andrea Palladio in 1561. Open Mon 8.15am-2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Full ticket price: €9. Ticket pricing may vary during temporary exhibitions. www. gallerieaccademia.it. Dorsoduro 1050 (Campo della Carità). T: 041 5222247. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop). Map D5

Museo Correr The museum is located in the old Royal Palace in St. Mark’s Square and includes the Napoleonic Wing and the Procuratie Nuove. Built to house Teodoro Correr’s collection, it features several exhibition spaces dedicated to the art and history of Venice. These include the neo-classical rooms housing sculptures by Antonio Canova, historic 54  W H E R E V E N I C E I J U N E 2018

collections describing the changing cityscape of Venice and, finally, the pinacoteca, boasting important masterpieces of Venetian art from its origins to the 16th century. Open daily. www. correr.visitmuve.it. San Marco 52 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2405211. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso stop or, San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 - 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Museo del Merletto (Lace Museum) Located in Burano, the museum is housed in a small building, formerly home to Venice’s famous Lace School. Boasting more than two-hundred rare, priceless pieces, the exhibition chronicles the evolution of the art of lace-making in Venice from the 16th to 20th centuries. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €5. Joint ticket for the Glass Museum and the Lace Museum €12. www.museomerletto.visitmuve.it. Piazza Galuppi 187, Burano. T: 041 730034. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2, 5.2 (Fondamenta Nove stop), and then line 12 (Burano stop). Off Map

Museo del Vetro (Glass Museum) Housed in the aristocratic palazzo Giustinian, on the island of Murano, the collections exhibited at the museum are arranged in chronological order: in addition to the archaeological section featuring Roman remains from the 1st and 2nd centuries A.D., you can also find an extensive range of historical objet d’art made from Murano glass, including important pieces produced between the 15th and 20th centuries. Open daily. Full price ticket €10. Joint ticket for the Glass Museum + Lace Museum €12. www.museovetro.visitmuve.it. Fondamenta Giustinian, 8. Murano. T: 041 5274718. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2 (Museo Murano stop). Off Map

Museo di San Marco The itinerary that you’ll follow inside the museum, will take you from the historic area above the atrium-narthex of the Basilica and the former

Banqueting Hall of the Doges, through the three extensive themes that are a part of the heritage of St. Mark’s Basilica: Mosaics, Textiles, the Quadriga and the Antico. Particularly noteworthy, amongst its relics and artworks, are the famous gilded bronze horses of St. Marks and the Basilica’s ancient fragments of mosaics, preserved in special containers known as ‘cassine’. The tour of the museum takes visitors through various areas of the Basilica, we therefore suggest wearing attire that is respectful of the religious nature of the Basilica. Open daily 9.45am-4.45pm. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €5. www. museosanmarco.it. San Marco 328 (Procuratoria di San Marco). T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto linee 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 o 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Museo Ebraico di Venezia

JEWISH MUSEUM This a ‘dispersed museum’; a highly unusual urban complex that includes the museum itself, the Ghetto, synagogues and an ancient cemetery. It contains a small but precious collection of artifacts related to the long history of the Jews in Venice. Thanks to guided tours (in Italian and English), you can visit three of the area’s five historic synagogues, located between the Ghetto Vecchio (Old Ghetto) and the Ghetto Nuovo (New Ghetto), and the Old Cemetery (16th-18th century) in San Nicolò del Lido. Finally, to commemorate the tragedy of the Second World War, there is a bronze relief Holocaust Memorial in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo. Full price ticket €4; Jewish Museum + guided tour of the synagogues : full price ticket €10. www.museoebraico.it. Cannaregio 2902\b. T: 041 71535. Vaporetto lines 1-2 (San Marcuola-Ghetto stop), lines 41-42-51-52 (Ponte delle Guglie-Ghetto stop). Map D2

Museo Storico Navale della Marina Militare The Historic Naval Museum, the most important of its kind in Italy, is owned by the Italian Navy and is


MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Palazzo Cini-La Galleria Situated in the Venetian 'Museums Mile', between the Accademia, the Peggy Guggenheim collection and the Punta della Dogana, the 16th century Palazzo Cini in San Vio is the house-museum of Count Vittorio Cini, and houses some remarkable art collections: 14th-15th century paintings from Tuscany and Ferraro (Piero della Francesca, Filippo Lippi, Dosso Dossi and Cosmè Tura), period furniture, silverware, ivories and ceramics. Closed on Tuesdays. Full price ticket €10. www. palazzocini.it. Dorsoduro 864 (San Vio). T: 041 2710217. Vaporetto Lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop), lines 2, 4, 5, 6 (Zattere stop). Map E5

Palazzo Ducale A landmark attraction, a masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, the Ducal Palace features a number of different architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it not only houses temporary exhibitions but can also be visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. The public entrance to the Doge’s Palace is through the ‘Porta del Frumento’ which leads to the spacious council rooms and then onwards to the exquisite rooms of the Doge’s Apartment. Other highlights on this route include the prisons and loggias overlooking the square and the lagoon. Open daily. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 1 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti), 5.1 or 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

François Pinault Foundation. They host important collective or monographic exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault Collection, one of the world’s largest collections of contemporary art. Palazzo Grassi’s ‘Teatrino’, an adjunct to the exhibition spaces, offers an action packed calendar of conferences, concerts and screenings of an international scope. Open daily 10am-7pm. Closed on Tuesdays, 25 December. Full price ticket €18 (Punta della Dogana+Palazzo Grassi). www. palazzograssi.it. T: 041 2001057. Palazzo Grassi San Marco 3231 (Campo San Samuele). Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop), 1 (Sant’Angelo stop). Map D4 • Museo Punta della Dogana Dorsoduro 2. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map F5

Scuola Grande di San Rocco The headquarters of the San Rocco Brotherhood, this stunning building, to which hardly any modifications have been made, hosts more than 60 masterpieces by artists of the likes of Giorgione, Tiepolo and Titian, still presented in their original layout. Its establishment represented an important moment in the history of 16th century Venetian art, above all thanks to Tintoretto’s famous cycle of Old and New Testament scenes. Open daily, 9.30am5.30pm. Closed on 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10; Scuola Grande + church €8. www.scuolagrandesanrocco.it. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco stop). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4

PONTE DI RIALTO CAPPELLO DEL DOGE

BACINO DI SAN MARCO

SAN MARCO

GIUDECCA

SAN POLO MURANO SANTA CROCE CASTELLO

BURANO TORCELLO

DORSODURO CANNAREGIO

PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

devoted to Venice’s seafaring history. In addition to the main building, whose exhibition spaces span 42 rooms and five floors, the ‘Padiglione delle Navi’ (Ships Pavilion), located in the Arsenale’s old ‘Oars Workshop’, is also a part of the museum. Built in the mid-16th century as a workshop to build and store oars, since 1980 it has housed an impressive collection of historical vessels, and is an extension of the main museum’s headquarters. Castello 2148, Riva San Biasio. T: 041 2441399. Padiglione delle Navi. www.marina.difesa.it. Castello 2162/c (Rio della Tana). T: 041 2711411. Vaporetto line 1, 4.1, 4.2 (Arsenale stop). Map H5

| SIGHTSEEING

CANAL GRANDE

Palazzo Fortuny Mariano Fortuny (Granada 1871 - Venice 1949) transformed Palazzo Pesaro degli Orfei into his own personal atelier for photography, set-design, textile creations and paintings. The museum’s collections boasts pieces and materials commissioned for important projects: paintings, lighting systems, photography and ornate garments. The building is now used to host art exhibitions. The museum is open only during temporary exhibitions. Open 10am-6pm. Closed on Tuesdays. www.fortuny.visitmuve.it. San Marco 3958 (Campo San Benedeto). T: 041 5200995. Vaporetto line 1 (Sant’Angelo stop), 2 (San Samuele stop). Map E4

Palazzo Grassi Punta della Dogana Overlooking the Grand Canal and recently restored by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, Venice’s 18th century Palazzo Grassi and the former harbour of Punta della Dogana are two contemporary art museums funded by the

The gondola symbolizes Venice

Not everyone knows that the bow iron of a gondola (also known as ‘pettine’) symbolize the six ‘sestieri’ (districts) of Venice. During the golden age of the Serenissima, a typical Venetian craft was also a symbolic means of communication, testifying to the artistic, historic and cultural grandeur of the city. More specifically, the upper part recalls the Doge’s hat, the lunette above the tooth represents the Rialto Bridge, the double ‘S’ bending running from the highest to the lowest point of the ‘iron’ represents the Grand Canal, a kind of tooth that extends back towards the centre of the gondola indicates the Giudecca, while below the main blade, 6 ‘rebbi’ (prongs) reference the sestieri of Cannaregio, Castello, Dorsoduro, San Marco, San Polo and Santa Croce. The iron featured in more recent constructions has been enhanced by the addition of three new finishes, representing the islands of Murano, Burano and Torcello. Generally comprised of 280 different pieces, made from 8 different types of wood, a gondola usually takes about one year to build. In bygone days, gondolas were built and stored in small shipyards known as ‘squeri’.

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ENTERTAINMENT

A journey back in time Rekindle the romance of train travel through Europe and take a trip on the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express, one of the world’s most historic trains. By Romena Brugnerotto

E

very traveller, at least once in a lifetime, has dreamt of travelling on the Orient Express. An icon of art deco design, this train began journeying through Europe in 1883. Over the years, different routes, all departing from London, were added. One of the most evocative was the London-Istanbul route described in Agatha Christie’s famous book Murder on the Orient Express, most recently seen in the feature film directed by Kenneth Branagh. It seems that this film has fired up the desire of travelers to experience this train journey. Venice, in addition to Berlin, Budapest, Istanbul, London, Paris, Prague, Vienna and Verona, is one of the destinations offered by the Venice SimplonOrient-Express, which is currently owned by Belmond. Passengers on the Orient Express 56  W H E R E V E N I C E I J U N E 2018

describe it as an experience of a lifetime thanks to the quality of the service and the food. Guests travel in unparalled luxury on the journey of their dreams. The train, with its polished wood, sumptuous upholstery and antique fixtures, epitomizes the glamour and elegance of the Golden Age of travel. Since 2018, the company has created three Grand Suites (see photo above) evocatively named Paris, Istanbul and Venice to meet the requirements of those in search of the ultimate luxury experience. Each suite is different with interiors inspired by the cities after which they are named, combining the typical art deco style of the train with every modern comfort. In addition to being spacious, the suites offer a private dining service both onboard and at destination.

To make your dream of the ultimate luxury experience come true, contact www.belmond.com/trains


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CONCERT VENUES & THEATRES Teatro La Fenice

UNMISSABLE Located in the Sestiere San Marco, La Fenice Opera House is the one of the most legendary opera houses in Italy. Twice destroyed by fire (1836 and 1996) and twice restored to its former splendour, for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, symphonies and the International Festival of Contemporary Music. In the 19th century, it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Gioachino Rossini, Vincenzo Bellini, Gaetano Donizetti and Giuseppe Verdi, while in the 20th century it became a focal point for contemporary productions. www.teatrolafenice.it. The theater is generally open daily for tours from 9.30am to 6pm. Full ticket: 10 €. The ticket price includes an audio guide, available in 5 languages (Italian, English, German, French and Spanish). San Marco, 4387 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 786672. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5

GAMBLING & CASINOS Casinò di Venezia Inaugurated in 1638, this is the world's oldest gaming house and its charm has remained unaltered over the years. A perfect example of renaissance style stately home, the dwelling place of the doges and Richard Wagner’s last residence, Ca’ Vendramin Calergi is one of the most elegant buildings overlooking Venice’s major waterway, the Grand Canal. Today the rooms for elegant French games and American gaming tables are given over to the best professionals, whilst over 600 slot machines provide a more informal way of having fun. For venues, opening times, tickets: www.casinovenezia. it. Ca’ Vendramin Calergi - Cannaregio, 2040. T. 041 5297111. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marcuola stop). • Ca' Noghera - Italy’s first American-style casino,

opened in 1999, it offers over 5,000 square meters of entertainment, including a new poker room for Texas hold’em Poker tournaments. Via Paliaga 4/8 Tessera (5 minutes from the Marco Polo Airport). Map E2

VENETO HOT VENUES

LA FENICE OPERA HOUSE www.teatrolafenice.it

Arena di Verona The best-preserved Roman amphitheater in the world and the best known in Italy after Rome’s Colosseum, the Arena, the city’s legendary open-air opera house, is located in Verona’s historic centre (115 km from Venice). Each summer, since 1913, it hosts a famous opera festival featuring must-see performances and internationally renowned stars. www.arena.it. Verona, piazza Bra 1. T: 045 8005151, 5873. Off Map

WELLNESS Boscolo Venezia Elegance, style and design blend to create a regenerating oasis, the ideal place for a one-of-akind pampering experience offering a rich program of wellness and body treatments. c/o Boscolo Venezia. Cannaregio, 3500 (Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto - Calle Larga Piave). T: 041 2208111. Vaporetto line 4.1 and 5.1 (Sant’Alvise stop). Map E2

San Clemente Palace Kempinski Here you can experience the Herb Massage Therapy service, a new approach to healing: an intimate and authentic journey based on the restorative powers of herb plants and the sensuous scents of Venice. The San Clemente Palace Kempinski offers a variety of massages - relaxing, Swedish and deep tissue combining essential oils of lavender, rosemary and sage. Teas and coffee made with Venetian herbs and spices are complimentary. c/o San Clemente Palace Kempinski. www.kempinski.com. Isola di San Clemente, 1. T: 041 4750111. Hotel’s complimentary boat from piazza San Marco. Off Map

■ OPERA 1 June LA TRAVIATA by Giuseppe Verdi Francesco Ivan Ciampa/ Marco Paladin, conductors Robert Carsen, director Patrick Kinmonth, sets & costumes Robert Carsen/Peter van Praet, light designer Philippe Girardeau, choreographer 3, 5 June L’ELISIR D’AMORE by Gaetano Donizetti Riccardo Frizza and Sesto Quatrini, conductors Bepi Morassi, director Gianmaurizio Fercioni, sets & costumes Vilmo Furian, light designer Barbara Pessina, choreographer

Photo Ennevi - Fondazione Arena di Verona

■ CONCERTS 9, 10 June Music by Richard Wagner, Franz Schubert and Edward Elgar Antonello Manacorda, conductor 16, 17 June at Malibran Theater Music by Daniele Ghisi, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, Giovanni Salviucci and Franz Schubert Francesco Lanzillotta, conductor Elena Nefedova, piano ■ CHAMBER MUSIC - MUSIKÁMERA 18, 19 June at Sale Apollinee Musikàmera-Cremona Quartet Excerpts from Mozart, Dvořák, Copland, Debussy Cristiano Gualco, violin Paolo Andreoli, violin Simone Gramaglia, viola Giovanni Scaglione, cello

ARENA DI VERONA Every summer, for the past one hundred years, Verona’s picturesque Arena offers audiences a chance to enjoy several of the world’s most prestigious operas. On 22 June, the 96th Arena Opera Festival will kick off with Bizet’s ‘Carmen’. www.arena.it

The Teatro La Fenice is usually open for tours daily from 9.30am to 6pm, although variations may occur in the schedule for artistic or technical reasons. The Theatre hosts a Maria Callas exhibition focused on her Venetian years. Ticket: 10 euros (including an audio guide, which is available in 5 languages: Italian, English, German, French and Spanish). www.festfenice.com

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PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK

ESSENTIALS

Venice, the floating city Some information and invaluable tips to experience the best that this magical city on water has to offer. By Simona P. K. Daviddi Italians (at least many of them), may already know that Venice… actually floats! Unlike Amsterdam or Saint Petersburg, it is not just furrowed by canals, bordered by roads and pavements. In Venice, canals are the only available communication route, bearing in mind that part of the city extends over a handful of beautiful islands that are scattered across the Lagoon. For this reason, the lagoon city can only be crossed on foot or by boat. Cars, motorbikes, bicycles and even roller skates are strictly forbidden. But this is not all. At times Venice may find itself... under water! The acqua alta phenomenon – the result of heavy rainfall and high tides - can cause the water level to rise by as much as a meter, forcing everyone to walk on raised plank walkways, or don rain boots (many shops, including tobacconists, sell disposable 58  W H E R E V E N I C E I J U N E 2018

ones) in order to cross the city’s flooded calli, campielli and salizade. Calli, campielli and salizade are Venetian words used to identify streets, squares and alleys while sestieri is the local word indicating the six districts the city is divided into: San Marco, Dorsoduro, Cannaregio, Santa Croce, San Polo and Castello. This division dates back to the 12th century and also includes areas such as La Giudecca, the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore (San Marco) and the Island of San Michele, home to the city’s cemetery (Castello). Street numbers in each sestiere start from 1 and often reach four figures, for example, one of the last numbers of the sestiere of Castello is 7,000. You need to learn them if you want to find your way through the spectacular, maze-like historic centre.

Venice also has its own network of public... and private transportation: its vaporetti, real waterbuses, are the most popular craft used by locals, which is why they are often very crowded during peak hours. These enginepowered water taxis are able to whiz across the lagoon in a heartbeat, but for those who prefer a unique, incredibly romantic experience, the famous, distinctive gondola is an absolute must. This elegant, black, one-oared rowing boat drifts gently across the water, while its gondolier sings an entire repertoire of traditional Venetian folk songs. It goes without saying that the waters of the canals are not suitable for swimming, and their banks are often slippery. Be careful not to be so focused on your selfie stick that you walk into a canal because you might be in for some © PAOLA DALLA VALENTINA rather unpleasant surprises!


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Emergency

UNIQUE | FAST TRAINS NETWORK FROM VENICE

POLICE T: 113 AMBULANCE T: 118 FIRE BRIGADE T: 115 TRAFFIC POLICE T: 041 2747070 LOST AND FOUND ON VAPORETTI T: 041 2722179 24-HOUR PHARMACY: check the display at

all pharmacies.

Airports INTERNATIONAL MARCO POLO DI TESSERA AIRPORT (VCE) - Venice’s Marco Polo Airport offers easy access to numerous destinations located in the Veneto region and in Northern Italy, the Canova di Treviso Airport (in Sant’Angelo) and main railway routes. The Marco Polo Airport is situated at a distance of 13 km from Venice (www.veniceairport.it). Trasportation from the Marco Polo Airport to the historic centre of Venice (and vice-versa): • Taxis (15 min. to Piazzale Roma, approximately €40); • water taxis (fast, private motorboats, approximately €80 ). This service is operative 24/24h (Consorzio Motoscafi Venezia www.motoscafivenezia.it. T: 041 5222303). • ATVO shuttle bus (20 min. to Piazzale Roma, €3, luggage included); • ACTV bus no. 5 (30 min. to Piazzale Roma with intermediate stops, €1, luggage excluded); • Alilaguna motorboats (a private service that uses ACTV’s network of docking stations with intermediate stops at strategic points throughout the city. Fares range from 8 to 27 euros). www. alilaguna.it. T: 041 2401701.

Trains

“SESTIERI”, THE DISTRICTS OF VENICE

FERROVIE DELLO STATO - Trenitalia Railway

Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com. Venice’s Railway Station (Santa Lucia) can be accessed from all main European and Italian cities. The Railway Station overlooks the lagoon and is located just steps from the stops of Venice’s main public transportation lines. E.g.: to reach St. Mark’s Square by vaporetto, take line 1 or 2. Estimated journey time from main Italian cities via high-speed trains, including Frecciarossa, Frecciabianca, Frecciargento, Italo, Thello, Eurocity:

Tourist Information

Santa Croce

Isola di San Michele

Cannaregio

San Polo Dorsoduro

Castello

San Marco

Giudecca

Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore

APT - Azienda di promozione Turistica Città

Metropolitana di Venezia (eng.turismovenezia. it/): Palazzetto Carmagnani, San Marco 2637. T: 041 5298711. VENEZIA UNICA - The official tourism website

of the City of Venice (www.veneziaunica.it)

Tourist Card VENEZIA UNICA CITY PASS is an all-in-one pass

that offers unlimited use of public transportation, admission to tourist attractions and cultural events in the city, plus a number of other useful services. You can purchase your card online and customize your Venezia Unica City Pass to suit your individual travel needs (www.veneziaunica.it/en) exchange vouchers. Open daily 9am-4pm. T: 392 6786628.

Cannaregio, like Castello, is the largest and most densely populated district of Venice. Its name probably derives from the expanse of reeds found in the swamps on which it was built. Castello takes its name from the castle of which traces still remain today. It extends around the Arsenale and includes the Gardens of the Biennale and the Riva degli Schiavoni. Dorsoduro is named after the compact sand dunes found in this area. It overlooks both the Grand Canal and the Giudecca Canal, along which the long promenade known as the Fondamenta delle Zattere stretches.

San Marco takes its name from the Basilica. This is the city’s main sestiere because it houses the palaces that once constituted the government of Venice until its fall. San Polo, which takes its name from the church of San Polo, is the geographic centre of Venice. It stretches from the highest part of the Rialto Bridge and is the place where the Rialto fish and vegetable market is held. Santa Croce takes its name from the ancient church of the same name which unfortunately was demolished under Napoleon’s rule. It includes the Stazione Marittima and the piazzale Roma terminal, a junction for train and road transport (buses, cars) and lagoon traffic (ferries, vaporetti or water buses).

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GALEONE VENEZIANO This is a unique way to visit Venice’s lagoon while CITYSIGHTSEEING VENICE savouring its aristocratic beauty and historical HOP ON-HOP OFF legacy. Built in 2001 to bring ship owner Andrea Exclusive view on the city of Venice. Longo’s longtime dream to life, the “Galeone www.venezia.city-sightseeing.it Veneziano”is a vessel inspired by the ancient • Tickets 24h: adults 20€, children (5-15 galleons, used in bygone days, by the Serenissima. years) 10€. • Services: designed to merge history with a • Tickets 48h: adults 27€, children contemporary twist, the galleon offers all the (5-15years) 13€. Tickets available: on board services of a modern ship. This one-of-a-kind at any boat stop, at the CitySightseeing venue is perfect for parties and a great way to Venice Visitor Center, on the "Sightseeing amaze your travel companions; it can be rented Experience" free App, on www.venezia.cityfor private events such as weddings and business sightseeing.it. meetings, offering guests a special tour, with or • Duration: 150 minutes (every 60 minutes) without lunch or dinner, while sailing around the • Services: wheelchair welcome, free Wi-Fi, islands. The galleon can be decorated with flags Free "Sightseeing Experience" App (for and banners. Apple and Android smartphones) with the • Events: every Wednesday and Friday evening, City Sightseeing Tour Map always with you can book a table for a “Galleon Dinner Cruise in Venice” (by reservation only, just 30 you, walking tour available in 5 different seats): a charming candle-lit dinner that allows languages, CitySightseeing Venice Visitor ratelli ebenef geloguests to take in the sights while sailing in front Center. ale Fat Arcan OspedRaffaele an S of Saint Mark’s square and moving on towards • Eight Stops: Ferrovia Compartimentale Parcoggia" Gro "Villa Murano, Burano, Mazzorbo. Santa Lucia – Stazione Marittima (Cruise astero calze S Mon e lvise elitan Sant'A Carm • About the Terminal) – San Marco, in front of Giardinetti Rio di Sa rto Galeone Veneziano: It can sail all nt'Alvise dell'O onna Madyear long as it has a rigid covering and heating Reali – Lido S.M. Elisabetta, pontile ACTV during the winter; in summer, in case of bad – Murano, Yalos Murano Pontile Fornace weather it has a protective covering. The Ferro – Zattere Incurabili – Stazione Galleon is equipped with a wired audio system Marittima (Cruise Terminal) – Ferrovia o irolam with microphones and is accessible to the Compartimentale Santa Lucia.Penitenti San G elle d i ia MarVenice Visitor Gesuit differently-abled. There are two galleons in dei the • New CitySightseeing Rio della Santa Miserico Chiesa rdia o ic ra fleet, each one with a maximum capacity of 146 Center (inside the main train station Venezia o Eb ia rdia Abaz Muse ico hi e Arc Miser passengers Santa Lucia,next to "Freccia Club Trenitalia": della for private events, and 84 seats for dei Tr Ponte table service. any kind of information on the service and onCanale di Cannare gio the city, maps and exchange vouchers. i zo Nan iobbe Palaz San G osca +39 0421 380006. Open daily (from April to November): a • Information: dalen Santa F La Mad info@jollyroger.it - www.galeoneveneziano.it 8.30am-5.30pm. T: 392 6786628. nardo SP

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A fixture in St. Mark’s Square for the past fifty years, in addition to showcasing the works of established and emerging artists of different nationalities, it collaborates with art galleries throughout the world.

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3. BEL-AIR FINE ART

In addition to modern and contemporary artists, this gallery exhibits the works of well-known international and Italian photographers including Campigotto, Morucchio and Galimberti. ND

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ranco runs the prestigious headquarters of the wellinternational group. Founded in 2004, Bel-Air Fine Art lizes in ‘street’, ‘optical’ and contemporary art.

Da cinquant’anni in piazza San Marco, la Galleria Ravagnan espone artisti affermati ed emergenti, di diverse generazioni e nazionalità e collabora con numerose gallerie d’arte in tutto il mondo.

di San Michele in Isoladi artisti moderni e contemporanei La galleriaChiesa ospita esposizioni ed espone opere di fotografi internazionali e italiani quali Campigotto, Morucchio e Galimberti.

ranco dirige l’importante sede veneziana del noto gruppo zionale. Fondata nel 2004, Bel-Air Fine Art si occupa di treet”, “optical” e arte contemporanea.

6. LA GALLERIA

www.ravagnangallery.com Piazza San Marco, 50/a. T: 041 5203021

www.bugnoartgallery.com San Marco, 1996/d. T: 041 5231305

elairfineart.com arco, 2765 (Calle dello Spezier). T: 041 5226529 Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo

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Located steps from La Fenice, besides exhibiting the works of renowned ‘Avant-gardists’ like Daniel Buren and Lore Bert, Dorothea van der Koelen explores new trends in contemporary art.

OGNISANTI RIO TERA’

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DRIO CALLE LE SCUOL

MAN

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

A due passi dal Teatro La Fenice, Dorothea van der Koelen presenta artisti d’avanguardia e di fama internazionale, tra cui Daniel Buren e Lore Bert, e nuove tendenze dell’arte contemporanea.

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Giardino delle Vergini

La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale

www.vanderkoelen.de San Marco, 2566 (Calle Calegheri). T: 041 5207415

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La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale

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Palazzo Querini Stampalia

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San Giovanni Novo

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Pavilion Since 1996, it Russia has represented hyperrealist master Luigi Rocca. Pavilion It showcases a permanent selection of works by international artists Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo Japan Pavilion and also organizes solo and collective exhibitions at various spaces.

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Museo Storico Navale di Venezia

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Dal 1996 la galleria rappresenta il maestro iperrealista Luigi Rocca, espone in permanenza una selezione di opere di artisti Sant'Elena internazionali e organizza mostre personali e collettive in varie sedi. CAL

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San Salvador

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Just for those who love . . .

Scuola Navale Militare "Francesco Morosini"

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www.melori-rosenberg.comRimembranze – info@melori-rosenberg.com Cannaregio, 2919 (Campo del Ghetto Novo). T: 041 2750039 Parco delle

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Ca who love . . . Just for those Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana

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WHERE VENICE MAPS - Copyright Where Italia srl. © 2018. Original Map by Urban File - www.urbanfile.org. Cover Map: Matthaeus Merian (1650). All rights reserved. Editore: Where Italia srl. Supplemento di Where Venice - Reg. Trib. Milano No. 453, 19 July 2010 - Where Italia Srl, iscritto al ROC n. 20182 del 14 settembre 2010 - Direttore Responsabile: Andrea Jarach. info@wheremilan.com - www.wheremilan.com - T: 02 349951. Coordinamento Commerciale: Where Venice www.where-venice.com - T: 340 3026288. Printed by Graphicscalve, località Ponte Formello - 24020 Vilminore di Scalve (Bergamo). WHERE® magazine and WHERE® logo are registered trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications. D

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An expert in the field of local Venetian art, Alessandro offers the best of his research with a particular focus on glass jewelry which he personally selects and appraises.

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Alessandro è fine cultore dell’arte veneziana popolare. Propone il meglio delle sue ricerche con particolare attenzione alle creazioni di gioielli di vetro, che cura personalmente.

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ESSENTIALS GETTING AROUND VENICE Because it is a relatively small, compact city (a 45-minute walk from North to South) whose main points of interest are situated just a short distance from each other, visiting Venice on foot is the ideal solution.

Gondolas, a tourist’s dream!

Vaporetti - An efficient network of water bus routes covers the entire city and includes transportation to the islands.The service is active 24/24h but runs less frequently between 9.30pm and 6am. Landing stages are located at central points around the city (including Piazzale Roma, Rialto, Piazza San Marco…) .

Gondolas - These traditional craft are among the best-known tourist attraction for those wishing to experience a view of Venice that is anything but pedestrian. They are used almost exclusively by tourists (and Venetians on their wedding days). TIP Before embarking, we suggest that you check official rates (approximately €80 for 45 minutes and €100 after 7pm). Agree on a price, time limit and singing in advance to avoid unexpected surcharges. Associazione dei Gondolieri T. 041 5285075. www.gondolavenezia.it Traghetti (Ferries) - ‘Traghetti’ are gondolas that cross the Grand Canal in 8 points. ‘Traghetti’ rides cost just €2 for non-residents (for holders of City Pass Venezia Unica or ACTV passes, rides cost 0.70) and operate almost non-stop. Four ferry services operate in Venice. Taxi - Water taxis with a cabin (private water taxis) are available for hire from 16 landing stages, including Lido Aeroporto Marco Polo, piazzale Roma, Ferrovia, Rialto and San Marco, or from your hotel. TIP Although private water taxis can be costly, they are the fastest and most practical means of getting around Venice. Ask your concierge. Car - The city can be accessed from the mainland by car, thanks to an elevated section (a 4km bridge, the longest in Italy, also known as the ‘Translagunare’), with limited parking options at garages in Piazzale Roma or on the Island of Tronchetto. Prices for 24-hour parking cost approximately €30 euro. TIP It’s advisable to travel to Mestre by car (24-hour parking costs approximately €15 euro) and then continue on to Venice by public transport.

PHOTO © SVIDA_WHEREITALIA

Tickets - Although paper tickets are available at main embarkation points and from authorized resellers displaying the ACTV logo, electronic tickets can also be pre-purchased online. ACTV: Piazzale Roma. T: 041 2424. www actv.it. There are 6 different types of tickets, ranging from hourly tickets (€7.50 for a 75’ regular route) to a weekly pass (€60) for unlimited travel on almost all lines. TIP The boat trip from one bank of the Grand Canal to the other costs 2 euro (only cash).You can pre-purchase reduced-price tickets from Venice Connected: www.veniceconnected. com. IMOB smart cards are available at all ACTV ticket offices. Although they allow you to save on official rates, they are only recommended for long-term visits.

A hallmark symbol of Venice, who has never dreamt of riding on one of these marvels of craftsmanship, whose charms have withstood the test of time? The components (approximately 280) of these extraordinary craft still bear their almost fairytale-like names of the past: ‘sankòni’, ‘fiùboni’, ‘solarai’ and ‘maistre’... To name but a few. Tradition has it that each gondolier has his own gondola, custom-made according to his weight and height. Among the most ancient boatyards (or 'squeri'), the most remarkable is perhaps that of Domenico Tramontin and Sons. Established in 1884, it was the supplier to the House of Savoy, the Prefecture and the Commune of Venice (Dorsoduro, 1542. www.tramontingondole.it). An interesting feature that you are bound to notice on a gondolier’s uniform is the logo. Its most recent version was created by the Style Department of Duca d’Aosta, a shop established in 1902 in the Rialto neighbourhood by Emilio Ceccato. The logo features St. Mark as the Winged Lion, holding an open book, a symbol of peace and strength, framed by two 'ferri' – the traditional iron gondola prow ornaments (also known in Venetian as 'fero da próva' or 'dolfin').

Bringing one home as a keepsake is neither easy (nor cheap!), but you can avoid this by purchasing a souvenir created ad hoc. Where? At Emilio Ceccato’s clothing and accessory store, the official supplier and technical sponsor of the Associazione Gondolieri di Venezia (The Gondolier’s Association of Venice) in San Polo 16/17 (T: 041 5222700) and in San Marco, 257 (T: 041 8478885). www.emilioceccato.com

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FONDAMENTA

La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale

La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese

RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

Spirito Santo

IA

CALLE

PESTRIN

GRITTI CALLE

SAN

FEM

DE CALLE

CROSERA

Arsenale di Venezia

Arsenale di Venezia

PIGNATER

RUGA VECCHIA

FORNACE

SALONI

'EU

PISCINA

DE

C. VOLTO

TERRÀ

NT

SCUOLA

MARTIN

L’ARCO

CALLE

ONI

CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO

CATECUMENI

RIO

SA

CALLE

DE

SALIZADA

DEL PIOVAN

RIO TERRÀ

FONDAMENTA

DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO

TA

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

Moise

DEL TRAGHETTO

MARTIRI

San

CALLE

RIDOTTO

TREDICI

Rio

CALLE

VALLARESSO

CALLE

CALLE

SARTOR

FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN

CAMPO DELLA SALUTE

Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

San Gregorio

RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO

Giudecca Palanca EN

NUOVE

CASTELLO

L’ANZOLO

BASTION

C. DEL

ASCENSIONE

DEI PUTI

AM

CELESTIA

DONA

DE

SCUDI

LARGA

CALLE

SEBASTIAN

ND

CASTELLO CASE

DELLA

CALLE

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI

DEL

CALLE

SAN

CALLE DEL PESTRIN

FO

COSMO

SESTIERE

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA

DE L’OGIO

CALLE

SAN ANTONIN

S C H I AV

DEI FORNI

FO

Sant'Eufemia

NUOVE

SECONDO SAGRADO

CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA

CORTE DEL MORION

CORTE DELLE GATE

R I VA D EGLI

S. Zaccaria (Pieta')

Arsenale

BIAGIO

CALLE

CASE

RAMO

CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA

CORTE SACCA

SAN

CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO

San Giovanni Battista in Bragora

VONI

100 m

SAN

CONVERTITE

San Francesco della Vigna

FRANCESCO

SANTA GIUSTINA

CALLE DEI FURLANI

SALIZADA

CALLE TERAZZERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’

Santa Maria della Pietà SCHIA

S. Zaccaria (Danieli)

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

SAN

SALIZADA

DEGLI

VERONA

RIO

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA

San Giovanni di Malta

San Giorgio dei Greci

San Zaccaria

CALLE BOSELLO

LA

MINELLI

DEGLI

O

DEGLI

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

SALUTE

LAVRANERI

ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

ZON

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

VIN CALLE DEL

Palazzo

DE

CAVALLETTO

ORSEOLO

FONDAMENTA DEL VIN

DEL

SOTO E CORTE NOVA

C.

Rio Del

FABBRI

FONDAMENTA

C.

CALLE

S. SAMUELE

PESTRIN

FONDAMENTA

CALLE DEL BASTION

FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE SAN LORENZO

CALLE LION

DE L’OSMARIN FONDAMENTA

CAMPO SAN PROVOLO

CALLE

SPECHIERI

SPADARIA

DEI

DEL

CALLE

TRONCHETTO

DEL NOVA ISOLA

FONDAMENTA

ra Scomenze De

MARITTIMO

Canale

PORTO

FONDAMENTA

F. CONDULMER

DIREZIONE

MARITTIMO

CERERIA LA

PORTO

DE

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA

San Lorenzo

CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA

CALLE

DEI PRETI

GATE

CALLE

DRASI

C.

DEL CAFETIER

CORTE NOVA

ZORZI SALIZADA

C. PIANTON

R I VA

DE LE

DEI

CALLE

C. DE LE COLONNE

DELL’OROLOGIO

PISCINA

VERONA

RC

CALLE

CALLE

MARZARIA

REDIVO

CALLE GOLDONI

CALLE

LA

CALLE

DE

A N M

SALIZADA

a

CALLE

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

SEVERO

DIREZIONE

LATERANO

SAN

FABBRI

Marittim

P U N TA S A B B I O N I Santa Maria del Pianto

DE LE TOLE

FONDAMENTA GIOVANNI

CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO

BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO

GIUFFA

CASSELERIA

DEI

C.

MANDOLA

AVVOCATI

TERÀ

RIELO

SPORCA CALLE PAZIENZE DE LE

LORENZO

FONDAMENTA

C. SAN

SCOAZZERA DE LA

LE PAZIENZE

SA

MEZO

CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO

Palazzo Ducale

LO

Rio San Lorenzo

DE CALLE

RUGA

CALLE

PISCOPIA

CARBON

Salvador

MARCO

CANONICA DE LA

O

MO

FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO

LIO

DEL

LARGA

BARBARIA

SAN

CORTE NUOVA

San Giovanni Novo CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO

SAN

CALLE

RC

SCHIAVONI RIVA

LE VIGNOLE

NOVE

Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto

CORTE TREVISAN

Palazzo Querini Stampalia

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

REMEDIO DEL CALLE

LARGA

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

Basilica di San Marco

MA

FONDAMENTA

SAN

San

RIO

CALLE

CALLE

San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti

Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo

Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo

CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

FORNO

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani

BANDE

CORTE FRUTARIOLI

CALLE DEL FIGHER

CALLE

BALONI

CAPPELLO

SAN

CALLE ERIZZO

SALIZADA

DE LE

ORBI

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

CALLE

DEI

CALLE

Rio

C.

MAGAZZINI

G. GALLINA

DEL

DE LE ERBE

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

TASCA

CORTE DEL FORNO

C.DEI

BIANCA CALLE

ZZA

CALLE

BEMBO

ZULIAN

CORTE TORRETTA

Museo Correr

Salute

ZATTERE

DE LA SACA

CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO

CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO

LARGA

CALLE

O MUSSATO CALLE

San Giuliano

SAN

PIGNOLI

REMER

CALLE

GRIMANI

CAVALLI

LUCATELLO

MARZARIA DEI

PIA

O DEL

CINQUE

CALLE

CALLE

CORNER

AI

DEI

LICINI

MEZO

C.

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

FONDAMENTA

CORTE NOVA

CALLE GABRIELI

DRIO CALLE LE SCUOLE

CALLE

CALLE

CORTE

RUBBI

DE

CORTE GRAGOLINA

Bacino Orseolo

Ca' Giustinian

RI

Palazzo Genovese

Spirito Santo CALLE

DEI LAVRANERI

San Gerardo

BIAGIO

NOVE

CORTE CORTESE

CAMPIELLO STELLA

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

CASTELLI

PIOMBO

D. PALLE

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

LIO

C. LARGA

CORTE

CALLE

CAPITELLO

BALOTE

GALLO SAN

BERLENDIS

VARISCO

CALLE

CALLE DEL C.MARTINENGO

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

CAMPO

DE LA FAVA

CALICE

DEL

TAGIAPIERA

LE

GRAGOLINA LE COLONNE DE

STRAZZE TERÀ RIO

CALLE CAMPO SAN GALLO

BOTERI

CALLE

O

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN

CALLE

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

MIRACOLI

GIAZZO

SAN

GALIAZZO

C. DEL

SALVADOR

MARZARIA

CORTE C.DEL TRAMONTIN

C.DE

COCCO

TOSCANA

CALLE

Stazione

DEI

CALLE

DE

SAN

DELLE

CARRO

PRIMO RAMOCONTARINA CORTE

San Moisè

Palazzo Pisani Gritti

PONTE

SACCA SAN

DEI

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

WIDMANN

CALLE

SALIZADA

SABION

C.

C.

DEL CALLE

CORTE BAROZZI

FONDAMENTE

LARGA

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

C O RT E B ATA G I A

RIO

Teatro Malibran

CAMPO

C. DEL

CORTE DEL

MARZARIA

San Salvador

FRUTARIOL

DEL

CAMPO SAN MOISE’

CASTELLO

CALLE

MADONA

zera

ORESI

DE LA

FORNO

RAMO

DEL

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

FREZZERIA

MOISE’

SA PISCINA

XXII MARZO

SESTIERE

DEI

PARANGON

CALLE

DOLERA

C. DE

RIO TERA’

L' ARZERE

GUARDIANI

DE

TODESCHI

CALLE

CANAL RIO TERA’

C. DEI

LARGA

CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

VENEZIA

CALLE

CAL RAMO

S.Canciano CALLE

CALLE

SAN CANZIAN

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

X

SAN LIO

MAZZINI CORTE

MAGAZEN

DEL

CALLE

DE PISCINA

LA CHIESA

DRIO

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

FONTEGO

PIO

LARGA

SAN SALVADOR

LUCA SAN CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

CORTE

MICHIEL

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

Santa Maria del Giglio

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim

DEL FORNO

CALLE DEL NAVARO

FONDAMENTA

VENIER

CORTE DEL REMER

FRUTARIOL

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

C. DEL

SALIZZADA

CALLE

TEATRO DEL CALLE

LOCANDE CALLE ASSASSINI

San Fantin

Maria del Giglio

CHIESA

SALIZADA

SPIRITO

CALLE

BARBA

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

RUGA

CALLE

DIETRO

VOLTI

GALIZZI

ROSSA

nde Canal Gra

FONDAMENTA

RAGUSEI

FONDAMENTA

CROSERA

CALLE

CALLE

TRAGHETTO

VAPORETTO

CALLE

STURION

DEL

ALLO

ZEN

SARTORI

TERÀ

Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto

Rialto

TEATRO

PATERNIN

MANDOLA

TERÀ

RIO

Teatro la Fenice

DELLA

CAPPUZZI

ZATTERE

CAMPO DEI GESUITI

FONDAMENTA

FOND.

RIO

SALIZADA

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

San Giacomo di Rialto

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

CORTE DEL

Palazzo Nervi Scattolin

CAMPO MANIN SAN CALLE CALLE

CAFETIER

CAOTORTA

Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

CALLE

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

SANTO

DEL

CATERINA

San Giovanni Grisostomo

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

TEATRO

MARCO

DEL

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

San MaurizioSanta

Canal Grande

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

SANTA

PRIULI

NOVA

PESCARIA

Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)

S.Silvestro

DEL

CALLE

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

Santo Stefano

C.SANT'AGNESE

NANI

AI GESUATI

Giudecca Hilton

Chiesa dei Gesuiti

S.ANDREA

FONDAMENTA

Santa Sofia

STRADA

San Silvestro

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

Palazzo Grimani

San Beneto San Luca

SAN BOTEGHE

CAMPO PISANI

CATENE

CAMPO DELLA

RAVANO

DEL

RUGHETA

DEI

CALLE

CAZZIOLA

TRAGHETTO

DEL PISTOR

CALLE

Zattere

NOVE

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

FOND.

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

STUA

BECARIE

DEL SOL

DEL

DEL

CALLE

ZATTERE

CALLE

LA

CAMPO DE LA

CAMPIELLO DEL SANSONI

CAMPIELLO

CALLE

CAMPO SAN BENETO CALLE

LE

CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione FONDAMENTA

FONDAMENTE

Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana

MUTI

CAMPO SAN APONAL

FABBRICHE

CA’

BOTA

Sant’Aponal DEL

LE

LA

CARAMPANE

de r an

NARISI FOND.

DE

CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

San Vidal CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

San Trovaso CAMPO SAN TROVASO

DEL

San Felice

LE

Palazzo Fortuny

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

CROSERA

FALIER

BONLINI

TRAPOLIN

VENDRAMIN

CALLE

DE

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

DI SAN MARCO

SAMUELE

Palazzo Loredan

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

LONGO

IA

CA'

DE DE

CARAMPANE

TERÀ

PERDON

CARROZZE

al G

SESTIERE

S. SALIZADA

LE

Abazia della Misericordia D

R

San Cassiano CALLE CALLE

RIO

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

Can Sant'Angelo

VECCHIA

LEZZE

FONDAMENTA

O

DE

Santa Fosca

CAMPO SAN CASSAN

L’AGNELLA

Palazzo Querini-Dubois

CA’ CORTE

DE

CALLE

S. Samuele

CALLE

OGNISANTI

IC

d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro

TIOZZI

DE

CORTE DEL TEATRO

CAMPO SAN POLO

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

DE

ER

C.

Rio Nuovo

FOND.

IS

NA

DEI

C.

SCALETER

CALLE RAMO

PONTE

M

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

DE

DEL

Palazzo Giustinian Persico S. Toma' SX

Palazzo Grassi San Samuele

Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia

BEATE GIULIANA

SACCA

FISOLA

LARGA

TA

S.Stae

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

CALLE CA’BONVINCINI

BOLDO

C.

EN

TRON

SAN

San Tomà

Ca' Rezzonico

Accademia

ZATTERE AL

CALLE CHIESA

CONTARINI

dell'Orto

AM

MORETTI

C.

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

CAMPO SAN TOMÀ

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI CALLE BERNARDO

FODAMENTA

S. Basilio

DELLA

D

San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale

CALLE

DEL

TENTOR

MEZO

CAMPO

ZANE

CROSERA

Ca' Rezzonico

Giudecca Hilton FONDAMENTO CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO

CALLE

N

CALLE

TABACCHI

CALLE

C.

DE

SAN BOLDO

CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO

SAN POLO

CAMPO DEI FRARI

CALLE

San Barnaba

Madonna

MORI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

NUOVA

PRETI

L’ASEO

DEI

CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE

L

CAMPO SAN STIN

TOMÀ

CAMPO SAN ROCCO

DE

CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA

NA

DONZELA

CALLE

TINTORETTO

DEI

CALLE

FOMO

CA

LA

SAN

CALLE

CALLE

CAMPO SAN PANTALON

RENIER

DEL

A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA

DE OGNISANTI

LE

ALE

DE

PAPADOPOLI

TERÀ

Basilica dei Frari

San Rocco

Muneghete

CALLE

CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA

INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON

Chiesa di Ognissanti

FONDAMENTA

NIE

DD

Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

CALLE

CALLE

RIO

CALLE

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

le

PANTALON

San Pantalon

NUOVO

.DA

MA

La Maddalena

Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

L’ISOLA

OCHE CALLE

OCHE

LATTE

LACA

FONDARIA

CIMESIN

de

BASEGO

RIO

CAMPO DEI CARMINI

LA

DE

LA

CALLE DE LA LACA

LA

RAMO

CIMESIN

SAN

CALLE

Carmini

Santa Maria dei Carmini

À D E

SOTOPORTEGO

DE

C. CAMPAZZO DE

CALLE

Rio

SALIZADA

del

CALLE DE LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN BESAGIO

FO de Servi N

TER

C.

TOLENTINI

FONDAMENTA

DEI

Bacino

DE

DE LA VIDA

C.VENZATO

LA

CALLE

CALLE DELL'OLIO

FON.

Canale

TERA’

RAMO

CALLE ORSETTI

DE

TINTOR

BESAGIO

Misericordia

FO

RIO DIETRO TERÀ LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

DEL

SALIZADA

della

Rio

San Giacomo dall'Orio CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO CALLE

DEI

LIBERTÀ

VECCHIO BERGAMASCHI

SIMEONE LUNA

MINOTTO

Magazen

CALLE

Rio

DORSODURO

San Sebastiano SAN

CALLE CAZZA

FONDAMENTA

CANAL

LA

DEI AMAI

RAMO

Del

Rio dei Tolentini

FONDAMENTA

CALLE CONTARINA

BRIATI

CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO

CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN

RUGA BELA

BARI

DELLA

SAN

TRAGHETTO CALLE

CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL

CALLE SAVIO

RUGA VECCHIA

CAMPO

DEI

Angelo Raffaele

DORSODURO

Rio

CALLE

C.

NUOVA

CERERI

FONDAMENTA

LARDONI

Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola RIO

LARGA

PONTE PROCURATIE

DEI

CALLE

IA

CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA

DEL REMER

BIASIO

DI

BARI

C.

CALLE

LUNGA

Scomen

CALLE

RIZZI FONDAMENTA

FONDAMENTA

DE L’OGIO

RD

R

VECCHIO

RIVA

LISTA

San Simeone Profeta

Soranzo Cappello

DE CAMPO

San Nicola da Tolentino

Rio

PENSIERI

DEI FONTEGHERI

CALLE

I CALLE ORSETT

DEI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

ICO

NOVA

MISERICORDIA

SANT'ANDREA

FONDAMENTA

TERÀ

MADONA

SAN MICHELE

FONDAMENTA

della

CAMPO FONDAMENTA DEI MORI

ER

San Marcuola

CAMPIELLO

nde l Gra Cana Riva de Biaso

CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO

NAZARIO Palazzo FONDAMENTA SAURO Soranzo Capello GARZOTTI

Giardino di Palazzo

CASE CORTE

CALLE

C. LAVADORI TERÀ

TABACCHI

RIO

LA

MIS

RIO

NUOVE

CROCE

Giardino Papadopoli

PIAZZALE ROMA RIO

FABBRICA FONDAMENTA

DE

TA

E DEL PISTO

MUNEGHE

LA

CROCE

CALLE

CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI

EN

STRADA

DE

SPAGNA

FONDAMENTA

Ferrovia

CORTE

Sant'Andrea

SANT'ANDREA

NICOLO’ SAN

San Nicolò dei Mendicoli

CALLE

AM

CALL

San Leonardo

San Geremia DI LISTA TERÀ RIO

SCALZI

DEI Ponte degli Scalzi

FONDAMENTA

San Simeon Piccolo

Ferrovia

Ferrovia

LA FO.

TERÀ

MARTA

Istituto Universitario Di Architettura

CALLE SAN BASILIO

ND

I

EONARDO

SAN LEONARDO

CALLE TRAGHETTO

CALLE

CAVALLETTI

Santa Maria di Nazareth

P.le Roma

Ponte della Costituzione

RIO

People Mover Venezia

SANTA FONDAMENTA

MATTA DI CA’

CALLE CASE NUOVE

Madonna dell'Orto

MADONNA

A

Rio

LER

NA

AI

People Mover Venezia

S A N TA

CAMPIELLO LONGHI

CALLE

AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO

NS

DELL'ORTO

S. L R I O T E R À CAMPO

CAMPO SAN GEREMIA

PRIULI

Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia

ITTICO MERCATO DIREZIONE

SE

FO

ER LE P

SE

TRONCHETTO

CAMPIELLO P I AV E

FONDAMENTA

TA

Museo Ebraico CAL

A E M

CALLE

DEL

EN

CANNAREGIO

CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO

LL

NOVA

AM

San Girolamo

CA

ISOLA

TRONCHETTO

Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo

Sant'Alvise

CAMPO S A N T ' A LV I S E

ND

INE

DEL

ZZ

CALLE

PU

SAVORGNAN

MATTIA

CA

PISCINA

LE

FO

LE

O

SAN

DE

AM

L’ARCO

TA

OL

CALLE

EN

DE

AM

N G IR

SAN

ND

SA

Palazzo Nani FONDAMENTA

VECCHIA

TA

LLO

RUGA

FO

EN

TE

Palazzo Labia Parco Savorgnan Salone del Tiepolo

DA PONTE

AM

B AT

DOGE

ND

TA

CALLE

FORNER

EN

CAMPIELLO TRAGHETTO

DEL

AM

SEBASTIANO

CALLE

FO

ND

CANNAREGIO

di Cannaregio

CAMPO SAFFA

Parcheggio Bus Turistici

VENEZIA

di Sant'Alvise

Sensa

COLETTI

Canale

GIOBBE

People Mover Venezia

della

CARLO

FO

FONDAMENTA

SAN

San Giobbe

BRAGADIN

NUOVE

Rio

Rio

FOND.A

Ponte dei Tre Archi

FONDAMENTA

VENIER FONDAMENTA

PENITENTI

CANNAREGIO

DEL SABION

LARGA

FONDAMENTA

CAMPIELLO DEL SCARLATTO

CALLE

Monastero "Villa Groggia" Carmelitane Scalze

ROLAMO SACCA SAN GI

CALLE

Santa Maria delle Penitenti

CAMPIELLO DE LA LAVANDER

FONDAMENTA

F O N D A M E N TA

TA’

CORTE

ER

SANT'AGNESE

B

LA

Parco

LI

BRAGADIN

LA

PISCINA

EL

NUOVA ISOLA DEL TRONCHETTO

ISOLA DELLE TRESSE

FAUSTA

Chiesa di San Michele in Isola

D

FONDAMENTA

LE

INCURABILI

A

CALLE ZUCCHERO

VI

C A

FR

AN

VI

A

C

ES

S. Servolo

VI

A

SA

N

N TA

MA

P

O

N

M

IA

EL

AB

ET

TA

VI

A

IS

A

ILEI

AR

A

S

M

IR

N

M

.

FO

C

O

D

U

O

D

O

VI SC

AR

IN

VI

VIC

PA

OL

O

ER

IZ

ZO

OL

O

A

FR

ZE

À

M

AU

FR

AN

C

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5 STAR DELUXE (L) & 5 STAR Aman Canal Grande Venice Resort Hotel – San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo Baiamonte) • E4 Baglioni Hotel Luna – San Marco, 1243 • F5 Bauer Palazzo (L) – San Marco, 1459 • F5 Belmond Hotel Cipriani (L) – Giudecca, 10 • F6 Ca’ Sagredo (L) – Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99 • E3 Danieli – Castello, 4196 • F5 Excelsior Venice (L) – Lungomare Marconi, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map Grand Hotel Dei Dogi – Cannaregio, 3500 (Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto) • E2 Hilton Molino Stucky (L) – Giudecca, 810 • C6 JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa (L) – Isola delle Rose – (Laguna di San Marco) • Off Map Londra Palace – Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4 Metropole – Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149 • G4 Palladio Hotel & SPA – Giudecca, 33 • F5 San Clemente Palace Kempinski (L) – Isola di San Clemente, 1 • Off Map SINA Centurion Palace – Dorsoduro, 173 • F5 The Gritti Palace – Campo Santa Maria del Giglio • E5 The Westin Europa & Regina –San Marco, 2159 • E5 4 STAR & LUXURY RESIDENCES A La Commedia – San Marco, 4596 • E4 Ai Mori d’Oriente – Cannaregio, 3319 (Fondamenta Sensa) • E2 Best Western Premier Collection CHC Continental – Cannaregio, 166 (Rio Terà Lista di Spagna) • D3 Biasutti Hotel – Via Dandolo, 29 – (Lido) • Off Map Bisanzio – Riva degli Schiavoni-Calle della Pietà, 3651 • G4 Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4488 (Calle Goldoni) • F4 Bucintoro – Castello, 2135/a • H5 Carlton On The Grand Canal – Santa Croce 578 • C3 Carlton On The Grand Canal – Santa Croce 578 • C3 Carnival Palace – Fondamenta di Cannaregio, 929 • C2 Cavalletto & Doge Orselo – San Marco, 1107 (Sotoportego del Cavalletto) • F4 Colombina – Castello, 4416 (Calle del Remedio) • F4 Concordia – San Marco, 367 (Calle Larga San Marco) • F4 Duodo Palace – San Marco, 1887/1888 (Calle Minelli) • D3 Firenze – San Marco, 1490 • F5 Foscari Palace – Cannaregio, 4200/1/2 (Campo Santa Sofia) • E3 Grande Albergo Ausonia & Hungaria – Gran Viale S. M. Elisabetta, 28 (Lido) • Off Map Le Boulevard – Granviale S. Maria Elisabetta, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map Le Ville del Lido – Via Bragadin, 38 (Lido) • Off Map Liassidi Palace – Castello, 3405 (Ponte dei Greci) • G4

L’Orologio Venezia – San Polo, 1777 (Riva del l’Ogio) • E3 Locanda Vivaldi – Castello, 4150/52 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4 Monaco & Grand Canal – San Marco, 1332 (Calle Vallaresso) • F5 NH Collection Palazzo Barocci –San Marco, 3878/A (Corte dell’Albero) • E4 Palace Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4680 (Calle dei Fabbri) • F4 Palazzetto Pisani Boutique Resort – San Marco, 2814 • E5 Palazzo Giovanelli – Santa Croce, 2070 (Campo San Stae) • E3 Palazzo Guardi – Dorsoduro, 995 • D5 Palazzo Stern – Dorsoduro, 2792/A • D5 Palazzo Veneziano – Dorsoduro, 1413 • D5 Pesaro Palace – Cannaregio, 3935 (Calle Ca’ D’oro) • E3 Petit Palais Venice – Lungomare Marconi, 54 (Lido) • Off Map Principe – Cannaregio, 146 (Lista di Spagna) • D3 Quattro Fontane – Via Quattro Fontane, 16 (Lido) • Off Map Rialto – San Marco, 5149 (Riva del Ferro) • F4 Royal San Marco – Santa Croce, 578 • F4 Russo Palace Hotel – Riviera San Nicolò, 11/a (Lido) • Off Map Ruzzini Palace – Castello, 5866 (Campo di Santa Maria Formosa) • F4 San Marco Palace – Piazza San Marco, 875 • F4 Santa Chiara – Santa Croce, 548 • C3 Santa Marina – Castello, 6068 (Calle Seco Marina) • F4 Saturnia & International – San Marco, 2399 • E5 SINA Palazzo Sant’Angelo – San Marco, 3878/B – 3488 • E4 Starhotels Splendid Venice – San Marco, 760 (San Marco Mercerie) • F4 Torre Dell’ Orologio - San Marco Luxury Venice – San Marco, 288 • F4 Una Hotel Venezia – Cannaregio, 4173 (Ruga Do Pozzi) • F3 Villa Laguna – Via Sandro Gallo, 6 – (Lido) • Off Map Villa Mabapa – Riviera San Nicolò, 16 (Lido) • Off Map Villa Pannonia – Via Doge Michiel, 48 – (Lido) • Off Map BOUTIQUE & CHARME HOTELS TOP Ai Cavalieri – Castello, 6108 (Calle Borgolocco) • F4 Ai Due Principi – Castello, 4972 (Fondamenta de l'Osmarin) • G5 Ai Reali – Castello, 5527 (Campo della Fava) • F4 Aqua Palace – Castello, 5492/a (Calle de la Malvasia) • F4 Ca Maria Adele – Dorsoduro, 111 • E5 Ca’ Nigra Lagoon Resort – Santa Croce, 927 • D3 Canal Grande – Santa Croce, 932 • D3 Dei Dragomanni – San Marco, 2711 • E5 Flora – San Marco, 2283/a • E4 Heureka – Cannaregio, 3534 • D1 La Calcina – Dorsoduro, 789 (Zattere) • D6 Moresco – Dorsoduro, 3499 (Fondamenta del Passamonte) • D4

MORE ON VENICE.WHEREITALIA.COM 64  W H E R E V E N I C E I J U N E 2018

Palazzetto Madonna – San Polo, 2902 • D4 Palazzina G – San Marco, 3247 • D4 Palazzo Abadessa – Cannaregio, 4011 (Calle Priuli) • E3 Palazzo Paruta – San Marco, 3824 • E4 Palazzo Priuli – Fondamenta de l'Osmarin, 4979 • G4 Palazzo Venart – S. Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron) • E3 CLASSIC Ad Place Venice – San Marco, 2557/A (Fondamenta della Fenice) • E5 Al Ponte Antico – Cannaregio, 5768 (Calle dell’Aseo) • F3 Antiche Figure – Santa Croce, 687 • C3 Antico Doge – Cannaregio, 5643 • F3 Arcadia – Cannaregio, 1333 (Rio Terà S. Leonardo) • D2 Belle Arti – Dorsoduro, 912/A (Rio Terrà Foscarini) • D5 Bloom B&B – San Marco, 3470 • E4 Ca’ del Campo – San Marco, 511 (Campo della Guerra) • F4 Ca’ Gottardi – Cannaregio, 2283 • E3 Ca’ Pagan – San Marco, 3268 (Calle delle Carrozze) • D4 Casa Verardo – Castello, 4765 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo) • F4 Charming House – Dorsoduro, 724 (San Vio) • E5 Corte di Gabriela – San Marco, 3836 (Calle Avvocati) • E4 Le Isole – Castello, 4661 (Campo San Provolo) • G4 Locanda Ca’ del Brocchi – Dorsoduro, 470 (Rio Terà San Vio) • E5 Locanda de la Spada – San Marco, 2488/a • E5 Locanda Fiorita – San Marco, 3457/a (Campiello Novo) • E4 Novecento – San Marco, 2683 (Calle Dose) • E5 Oltre il Giardino – San Polo, 2542 • D4 Santa Chiara – Santa Croce, 548 • C3 Villa Ines – Via Lazzaro Mocenigo, 10 (Lido) • Off Map OUT OF TOWN 4 STAR & LUXURY RESIDENCES Alexander – Via Forte Marghera , 193/C – Mestre (Ve) Antony Hotel – Via Orlanda, 182 – Mestre (Ve) Antony Palace Hotel – Via E. Mattei, 26 – Marcon (Ve) Best Western Hotel Airvenice – Via G. Pascoli, 1 – Quarto d’Altino (Ve) Best Western Hotel Bologna – Via Piave, 214 – Mestre (Ve) Best Western Plus Quid Hotel Venice Airport – Via Terraglio, 15 – Mestre (Ve) Best Western Titian Inn Hotel Venice Airport – Via Orlanda, 240/244 – Tessera (Ve) Courtyard by Marriott Venice Airport – Via Triestina, 170 – Tessera (Ve) Hilton Garden Inn Venice Mestre San Giuliano – Via Orlanda, 1 – Mestre (Ve) NH Laguna Palace – Viale Ancona, 2 – Mestre (Ve)


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