Where Venice n 23 July 2018

Page 1

VENICE CITY GUIDE ®

JULY 2018

VENICE.WHEREITALIA.COM

A desire for architecture Space, free space, public space: discover the Architecture Biennale 2018

ITALIAN-STYLE GIFT GUIDE Our pick of the best seasonal trends

ALL THE ALLURE OF THE REGION Several out-of-town destinations for a fun, relaxing experience

SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS



Venice July 2018 22

the guide

GIFT GUIDE

24 SHOPPING

Discover Tessitura Luigi Bevilacqua: the art of weaving in Venice since the 18th century

BAGARON C A M PA LT O

MESTRE

12

42 DINING

FOCUS

The most sought-after Sunday brunch in the city is served at the Ristorante Terrazza Danieli

Salvadori Diamond Atelier

50 SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS

Parco San Giuliano

42

56

DINING

ISOLA DI TES

Fondazione Prada presents a new exhibition focusing on three major philosophers of the 20th century

ENTERTAINMENT

56 ENTERTAINMENT

Contents

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Where® brings you a round-up of Michelin-starred restaurants for true connoisseurs of taste!

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Photo by Andrea Avezzù. Courtesy of La Biennale di Venezia

The city's passion for antiques is embedded within its soul.

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The entrance to the Giardini at the Venice Biennale. ‘The Grapevine Structure’ by Konrad Wachsmann (Burkhalter Sumi Arkitekten with Marco Pogacnik).

A guide to spending unforgettable days at the Architecture Biennale, while brousing its exhibitions.

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SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS

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Information and tips to experience the best that Venice has to offer

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Our pick of the best seasonal trends

Take advantage of your stay in Venice to enjoy this season’s latest offerings.

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ITALIAN-STYLE GIFT GUIDE

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This month's round-up of shows, PORTO MARGHERA art exhibitions and music.

Space, free space, public space: discover the Architecture Biennale 2018

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Designed for an international audience, the city’s renowned Teatro Goldoni is hosting the ‘Arlecchino Furioso’ M U R

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That’s why friends are needed in every location. To replace or back up a reliable source of tourist information. Where to go, what to see, where and what to eat, what shows and exhibitions are on, what museums to see in the short time available, and what you can find close to the city to enable you to understand Italy better. Where® was created for this very purpose (no less than 82 years ago!); still today, further enhanced by its digital editions, it remains the complete and reliable information source preferred by High-Quality Travelers. In Italy we are talking about approximately 12 million travelers each year, around 20% of the total. Some of these High-Quality Travelers spend more than €1,000 a day in this country, a huge market for those who are able to interpret their tastes and requirements. We have been doing this for almost a century now. Rely on us. For a high-quality Italian experience.

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[ SIGHTSEEING]

PHOTOS © SHUTTERSTOCK

Top in town

Ponte dei Sospiri

BASILICA DI SAN MARCO This is the most important Catholic church in the city, and one of the most important monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1000; inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. Map F4 

CANAL GRANDE Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the main waterway of Venice. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. 

PONTE DEI SOSPIRI A Baroque bridge that once connected Palazzo Ducale to the prisons. The Bridge of Sighs is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. It can be accessed when visiting Palazzo Ducale. Map F4 

SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO The external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell of Palazzo Contarini - an exquisite, late Gothic building - is enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can

4  W H E R E V E N I C E I J U LY 2018

be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. Map E4  TEATRO LA FENICE Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries La Fenice theatre has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. Map E5  CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE DI SAN ROCCO A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as


MORE AT PAGE 50 MAP PAGES 62-63

Canal Grande

Palazzo Ducale

PHOTO © MICHELE CROSERA

PALAZZO DUCALE A masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, it features a number of different and intricate architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it is superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. Map F4 

PHOTO LUIGI FARDELLA © SHUTTERSTOCK

a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. Its interiors are filled with numerous treasures. Map D4 

Teatro La Fenice

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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES JULY

HOT DATES Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating Italian traditions, art and music or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates.

6  W H E R E V E N I C E I J U LY 2018


JULY ENTERTAINMENT

14 15 JULY

JULY

ENJOY THE FIREWORKS! Every year, on the third Sunday of July, Venice commemorates the city’s deliverance from the plague in the 16th century with a celebration known as the ‘Festa del Redentore’ or ‘Feast of the Redeemer’. This religious holiday and spectacular event is much loved by the people of Venice. The highlight of the event – held on Saturday night at 11.30pm – is a fireworks display that attracts thousands of spectators. The Feast of the Redeemer kicks off with the opening of the pontoon bridge connecting the Zattere to the Church of the Redeemer on the Island of Giudecca, and the presentation of the Venetian regatta boat crews. The Regattas of the Redeemer are held on Sunday in the Giudecca Canal and the event ends at 7pm with a Votive Mass at the Church of the Redeemer on the Island of Giudecca. Feast of the Redeemer Giudecca Canal

A breathtaking view of the Feast of the Redeemer from the Hotel Danieli, Venice - A Luxury Collection Hotel (Ristorante Terrazza Danieli). Photo © Mirco Toffolo

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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES FASHION

23 6

UNCONVENTIONAL FIORUCCI

► Ca’ Pesaro explores the relationship between Elio Fiorucci and JUNE JANUARY fashion, architecture and contemporary art with 2018 2019 an exhibition featuring a unique anthology of products, objects, posters and event-related documentation. Fiorucci was described by many as the ‘champion of democratic fashion’, who changed the rules of fashion in Italy in the 1960s. This must-see exhibition traces the career of the late, renowned Milanese designer with a display of his numerous, unconventional creative contributions.

Epoca Fiorucci Ca’ Pesaro-Galleria Internazionale d’Arte Moderna. Santa Croce, 2076. capesaro.visitmuve.it

ARCHITECTURE

20 19 APRIL

NOVEMBER

VISIONARY MASTERPIECES ▼ During the year of the Architecture Biennale, the Palazzo Cini Gallery exhibits a diverse selection of highly contemporary drawings executed between the 16th and 19th centuries. A fascinating journey of drawings related to illusory and ornamental architecture that appears to anticipate the lines and trends of contemporary design. The exhibition features 100 drawings from the Antonio Certani collection owned by the Giorgio Cini Foundation. A unique opportunity to see the exhibition and visit the Palazzo Cini house-museum.

Imagined Architecture Galleria di Palazzo Cini, Campo San Vio. www.cini.it

SAVE THE DATE SEPTEMBER >> TINTORETTO 1519-1594 Two monographic exhibitions dedicated to the Venetian artist Tintoretto will be held at the Palazzo Ducale and at the Gallerie dell’Accademia, beginning on 7 September. These exhibitions will kick off the celebrations marking the 500th anniversary of Tintoretto’s birth. The anniversary will be celebrated in 2019 with an unprecedented exhibition at the National Gallery of Washington, the first ever to be held abroad. The celebrations will include comparisons with Titian and other Venetian artists, and collateral events at churches and Venice’s Scuole Grandi, to disseminate the awareness of his art across the city. TICKET PRESALE Buy your ticket online at the special price of €8 (offer valid only until 31 August 2018) Tintoretto 1519-1594 Palazzo Ducale and Gallerie dell’Accademia palazzoducale.visitmuve.it - www.galleriedellaccademia.it

OCTOBER >> GLASS ART The 2018 autumn exhibition at ‘Le Stanze del Vetro’, curated by Marino Barovier, will be dedicated to the Cappellin glassworks and Carlo Scarpa. The production included transparent glass works, precious ‘lattimo’ glass embellished with gold, glass paste, bright ‘incamiciato’ works, glass with ‘fenicio’ decorations as well as figurines, animals and plants. The M.V.M. Cappellin Glassworks and the Young Carlo Scarpa 1925-1931. Documents and glass works research. Le Stanze del Vetro-Fondazione Cini. Island of San Giorgio Maggiore. http://lestanzedelvetro.org/en/category/exhibitions/

Giuseppe Jarmorini, Atrio colonnato. Venezia, Fondazione Giorgio Cini 8  W H E R E V E N I C E I J U LY 2018


JUNE DESIGN

24 25

A PLAY OF CONTRASTS

► To celebrate the 16th Architecture Biennale, the Berengo Foundation of Venice is hosting an exhibition at Palazzo Franchetti featuring the design works of Memphis, the Italian group MAY NOVEMBER founded by Ettore Sottsass that challenged the minimalist fashion of the ‘80s with brightly coloured, iconoclastic designs inspired by Pop Art. The items designed by Memphis are displayed against the historical backdrop of Palazzo Franchetti, in an interesting play of contrasts. In addition to the exhibition, visitors will have a chance to admire the ‘Gilded Cage’, an installation by artist-activist Ai Weiwei in the courtyard of the palace. This installation, formerly hosted in Central Park, New York, was originally used to highlight an awareness campaign on the theme of the global refugee crisis.

Memphis – Plastic Field Fondazione Berengo – Palazzo Franchetti San Marco, 2847 fondazioneberengo.org

Photo © Francesco Allegretto, courtesy Fondazione Berengo

Tawaraya. Photo © Francesco Allegretto

ANNUAL EVENTS IN VENICE JUNE/JULY Feast of San Piero de Casteo (24 June-1 July) Festa del Redentore / Feast of the Redeemer (14-15 July) One of Venice’s best loved festivals, the event features a parade of boats in the Giudecca and fireworks. AUGUST/SEPTEMBER International Exhibition of Cinematographic Art (29 August-8 September) > 75th Venice Film Festival organized by La Biennale di Venezia. SEPTEMBER Regata Storica / Historic Regatta (2 September) One of Venice’s foremost rowing competitions. The Venice Glass Week (9-16 September) An international festival dedicated to the art of glass-making, with a focus on creations made in Murano. OCTOBER Venice Fashion Week (20-27 October) Venicemarathon (28 October)

NOVEMBER Teatro La Fenice - Concert Season Opening (First week of November )

APRIL Venice Fashion Spring (13-14 April)

Festa della Salute (21 November) > A popular religious feast day.

Venice Night Trial (14 April) > Urban trail run 16 km through t +he historical centre of Venice.

Teatro La Fenice - Opera and Ballet Season Opening (End of November) DECEMBER Christmas Concert at St. Mark’s basilica (17-18 December) > Organized by Teatro La Fenice with the Cappella Marciana Soloists. New Year’s Eve Concert-Teatro La Fenice (29-30-31 December)

> 2019 < JANUARY New Year’s Eve Concert-Teatro La Fenice (1 January) Regata delle Befane (6 January) > A costumed race between members of the Bucintoro, the oldest rowing company in Venice. FEBRUARY/MARCH Carnival of Venice (16 February5 March 2019) > Shows, masked parades and music in ‘calli’, squares and palaces.

Festa di San Marco/Feast of St. Mark (25 April) > In addition to being a national holiday, on 25 April Venetians also celebrate Saint Mark’s day. MAY Biennale Arte 2019 11 May-24 November (preview 8-9-10 May), Arsenale and Giardini > The 58th International Art Exhibition is organized by La Biennale di Venezia and curated by Ralph Rugoff Festa della Sensa or Ascension festivity (11-12 May) > A masked parade in St. Mark’s Square to celebrate the Serenissima and the ‘Sposalizio del Mare’ (Marriage of the Sea) ceremony Vogalonga (19 May) > 44th edition of the 30 km rowing marathon from the Northern lagoon to the islands: a colourful event open to both professionals and amateurs. w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com  9


WHERE NOW | HOT DATES CONTEMPORARY ART

8 6 APRIL 2018

JANUARY 2019

PAINTING AND HARMONY ► This exhibition features a selection of 85 works by contemporary German artist Albert Oehlen executed between 1980 and the present time. The unusual layout of his work is designed to underscore the central role played by music in his artistic production. Density and harmony, improvisation and repetition become real pictorial gestures. This major monographic exhibition, his largest to-date, showcases works from the Pinault Collection as well others Cows by the Water. Albert Oehlen from important private collections and Palazzo Grassi international museums. www.palazzograssi.it

www.potpourri.it

San Marco, Venezia Palazzo Regina Vittoria Fashion Ramo dei Fuseri 1810-1811/m Tel. +39 041 5221332

FASHION · HOME · MAN · LIFESTYLE

10  W H E R E V E N I C E I J U LY 2018

Home Frezzeria 1820/m Tel. +39 041 5201996


Hot Venues CA’ PESARO-INTERNATIONAL GALLERY OF MODERN ART Santa Croce, 2076. Map E3 T: 041 721127. www.capesaro.visitmuve.it › 25 May – 7 September JUAN NAVARRO BALDEWEG. Rings of a Zodiac › 23 June – 13 January 2019 EPOCA FIORUCCI CA’ REZZONICO Dorsoduro, 3136. Map D5 T: 041 241010 0. www.carezzonico.visitmuve.it › 23 May – 3 September GIULIA LAMA. Painter and poetess 1681-1747 CASA DI CARLO GOLDONI San Polo, 2794. Map D4 T: 041 2759325. www.carlogoldoni.visitmuve.it COLLEZIONE PEGGY GUGGENHEIM Palazzo Venier dei Leoni. Dorsoduro, 701. Map E5 T. 041 2405411. www.guggenheim-venice.it › 19 May – 3 September JOSEPH ALBERS IN MEXICO › 25 May – 25 November 1948: THE BIENNALE OF PEGGY GUGGENHEIM FONDAZIONE CINI. SAN GIORGIO MAGGIORE Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. Map G6 www.cini.it - lestanzedelvetro.org › 9 April – 29 July A FURNACE IN MARSEILLE. Cirva Centre international de recherche sur le verre et les arts plastiques › 1 March – 15 July New Guided Tours of the Fondazione Giorgio Cini GALLERIE DELL’ACCADEMIA Dorsoduro, 1050 (Campo della Carità). Map D5 T: 041 5200345. www.gallerieaccademia.it › 29 September – 8 July CANOVA, HAYEZ AND CICOGNARA. The last glory of Venice www.mostrabicentenariogallerie.it

THE BORGES LABYRINTH AT THE GIORGIO CINI FOUNDATION © SHUTTERSTOCK

MUSEO DEL MERLETTO (LACE MUSEUM) Piazza Galuppi, 187. Burano. Off Map T: 041 730034. www.museomerletto.visitmuve.it MUSEO DEL VETRO (GLASS MUSEUM) Fondamenta Giustinian, 8 Murano. Off Map T. 041 2434914. www.museovetro.visitmuve.it › 21 April – 19 August THE BARRY FRIEDMAN & VENETIAN HERITAGE COLLECTION

PALAZZO CINI. LA GALLERIA Dorsoduro, 864 (San Vio). Map E5 T: 041 2710217. www.palazzocini.it › 20 April – 27 August IMAGINED ARCHITECTURE. Drawings from the Collections of the Fondazione Giorgio Cini PALAZZO DUCALE San Marco, 1. Map F4 T: 041 2715911. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it COMING SOON

MUSEO DI PALAZZO MOCENIGO Santa Croce, 1992. Map E3 T: 041 721798. www.mocenigo.visitmuve.it › 20 January 2017 – 26 August 2018 VENICE AND THE EAST. The Fondazione di Venezia Collection MUSEO DI STORIA NATURALE (NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM) Santa Croce, 1730. Map D3 T: 041 2750206. www.msn.visitmuve.it

JAMES LEE BYARS, LE PETIT ANGE ROUGE, INSTALLATION VIEW. © ENRICO FIORESE

› 7 September 2018 – 6 January 2019 TINTORETTO 1519-1594 PALAZZO FORTUNY San Marco, 3958. Map E4 T: 041 5200995. www.fortuny.visitmuve.it › 24 March – 23 July SPRING AT PALAZZO FORTUNY. AN ITALIAN COLLECTION. Artworks from the Merlini Collection THE ZURIGO ROOM. A Tribute to Zoran Music PALAZZO GRASSI San Marco, 3231 (Campo S. Samuele). Map D4 www.palazzograssi.it › 8 April – 6 January 2019 COWS BY THE WATER. ALBERT OEHLEN PUNTA DELLA DOGANA Dorsoduro, 2. Map F5 T. 041 2401308. www.palazzograssi.it › 8 April – 16 December DANCING WITH MYSELF TORRE DELL’OROLOGIO (CLOCK TOWER) Piazza San Marco. Map F4 www.torreorologio.visitmuve.it w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com  11


WHERE NOW | FOCUS

Photo © Andrea Avezzù. Courtesy of La Biennale di Venezia.

Architecture takes centre stage at the Biennale No matter how often you’ve visited Venice, you’ll always find new attractions in this vibrant and culturally stimulating city, beginning with the 16th Biennale of Architecture with over 70 participations from all over the world and a rich events program. BY ROMENA BRUGNEROTTO Romena Brugnerotto Lifestyle Editor Where ® Italia

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lthough the Art Biennale is one of the oldest in the world – it’s been staged in Venice since 1887 – the Architecture Biennale was only established in 1975 as an extension of the Visual Arts Sector. The first International Architecture Exhibition was organized in 1980. Over the years, the International Exhibition was curated by famous architects and industry experts including Francesco Dal Co, Richard Burdett, David Chipperfield, Rem Koolhaas and Alejandro Aravena, making the Architecture Biennale one of the most prestigious and important sector-related exhibitions in the world, a reference point for experts and aficionados. Visiting the Biennale and its exhibitions, an eclectic mixture of worldliness and culture, is an event that many people have heard about and would like to attend at least once in their lifetime. It’s not necessary to have knowledge of architecture. What counts is a spirit of curiosity and an ability to go along with the provocative ideas offered by the artists participating in the event. The opening weeks boast a cornucopia of inaugurations and parties dedicated to the celebration of contemporary architects. Before setting out, make a list of unmissable highlights, because, depending on the time available, you might only be able to see a fraction of what’s on offer. However, now that the initial hordes of aficionados have


left, and Italians have gone to the seaside, July is the perfect time to visit the Architecture Biennale. “FREE” SPACE… NOT “EMPTY” SPACE Yvonne Farrell and Shelley McNamara are the curators of this year’s exhibition. The two architects are the founders of Grafton Architects, which won the prestigious World Building of the Year award in 2008 with their project for the Università Luigi Bocconi building in Milan. The exhibition will be hosted at the central pavilion of the Giardini and at the Corderie of the Arsenale, and will feature the projects of 71 architects from all over the world, and 65 national pavilions including seven countries participating for the first time at the Architecture Biennale: Antigua and Barbuda, Saudi Arabia, Guatemala, Lebanon, Mongolia, Pakistan and the Holy See. The theme chosen by the curators is Freespace: a word that describes a generosity of spirit and a sense of humanity at the core of architecture’s agenda, focusing on the quality of space itself, displaying works that exemplify the essential qualities of architecture, including the modulation, richness and materiality of surface, and the orchestration and sequencing of movement, revealing the embodied power and beauty of architecture. A SHORT GUIDE TO THE BIENNALE There are two official exhibition sites: the Giardini and the Arsenale, two truly unique places. The Giardini because each country participating at the exposition has its own pavilion designed by a renowned architect (the pavilions alone deserve a separate visit), and the Arsenale because you’ll be stepping into one of the most important places in the history

IN LOVE WITH ARCHITECTURE At the top. The Arsenale of Venice is a unique, unmissable place that can only be visited on rare occasions. During the days of the Republic, the famous Venetian ships, used for trade with the East, were built in its large basin of water. Above. Yvonne Farrell and Shelley McNamara with Paolo Baratta, the president of the Venice Biennale. The two curators of the Architecture Biennale live and work in Dublin where they co-founded Grafton Architects in 1977. In 2012, they were awarded a Silver Lion at the 13th Venice Architecture Biennale. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com  13


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The Belgian Pavilion (1) is hosting an amphitheatre for discussion about European politics. SAN SERVOLO The round, tiered seating takes over the interior of the pavilion, creating a space similar to the agoras of Ancient Greece, coloured in a vibrant shade of blue, matching the shade of the European Union flag. The curators expect it to become “a great space for discussion, debate and commitment”. The aim of the curators of the Indonesian Pavilion (2) is to involve visitors in a tactile experience. ‘Sunyata’ is based on the concept of emptiness. The title R Tempio Votivo EG Della Pace Di Venezia I A N of the Brazilian Pavilion (3) is ‘Walls of Air’: ten cartographic mappings based on research V developed by a team of collaborators, consultants and institutions, as a way of visualizing G R A N V IAL E S AN TA the forms of spatial and conceptual separation that have resulted from Brazil’s urbanization VIA MA DO RIA GE EL MIC ISA HIE B processes. The Swiss Pavilion (4) is the winner of this year’s Golden Lion: an engaging L architectural installation that addresses the key issues of shifting scales in domestic space. VIA

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of the Republic of Venice, the former military dockyards where the boats that made the Serenissima famous for its trade with the East were built. The organizers of the Venice Biennale offer different types of tickets: forget about visiting the Giardini and the Arsenale in just one day. It’s advisable to opt for a multi-entry ticket so that you can enjoy the experience to the full without exhausting yourself. Before setting out, make sure that you’re well equipped: have a large breakfast and bring bottled water and something to snack on, like fruit or dried fruit. If you suffer from low blood pressure, a few sticks of licorice are also wise. Once you get there, food isn’t a problem because both locations offer well-equipped catering areas, including bars and restaurants. Avoid eating at 1pm, the set time for lunch in S. Servolo Italy. Plan on spending at least 4 hours at each location. This will give you time to sit down when you’re tired of walking and allow you to either enjoy some respite from the heat or watch a video installation. If you have any questions about the works displayed, and you’re bound to have many, don’t hesitate to ask for help from either the pavilion assistants or other members of staff carrying IPads and wearing ‘ask me’ T-shirts. Additionally, guided tours designed to enhance your viewing experience are available on a daily basis. If you’re in search of a personal guide, ask your concierge.

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HOW TO GET THERE To reach the Arsenale: ACTV lines 1 and 4.1 To reach the Giardini: ACTV lines 1, 2, 4.1 and 5.1, (line 6 only from Piazzale Roma). Distance between the two venues: 15 minutes on foot. Services: Infopoint, free cloakroom service, bar, restaurant and bookshop. Accessibility: the route between the two venues is wheelchair accessible. Facilities for families: at the Arsenale, free stroller hire, baby changing space, nursing and feeding space for infants and a family-friendly area. At the Giardini; baby changing space and a nursing and feeding space. Pets: small pets are allowed on a leash in the green spaces at the Giardini. No pets are allowed at the Arsenale venue. Payment methods accepted: cash, debit and credit cards.

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HUMAN RELATIONS AND CREATIVITY In ‘Weaving Architecture’ by Miralles Tagliabue (1), the manual technique of weaving humanizes public spaces. Different materials are used to blur the boundaries of space, to make them welcoming. ‘Another Generosity’ is the title of the Nordic Countries (2) at the Giardini. Its aim is to show a vision of a future where architecture can adapt to the surroundings, in the same way that humans do. Swiss architect Mario Botta (3) presents ‘Introduction to Architecture’, an impressive timber structure that hosts research work conducted by students of architecture. ‘Work, body, leisure’, the title of the Netherlands’ Pavilion (4), explores living conditions and ideas related to the human body in the workplace: an invitation to use creativity responsibly. ’Kere Architecture’ (5) develops innovative strategies combining techniques and traditional building materials with contemporary methods of engineering. The project presented is by a school in Burkina Faso.

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WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN

All the allure of the region Veneto is one of the most visited regions in Europe and offers several attractive destinations for a fun, relaxing out-of-town experience. The cities are well connected by train but as an alternative you can either hire a car or a car with a driver. BY ROMENA BRUGNEROTTO

Half an hour by train from Venice Treviso: the city is a small gem, which can be visited entirely on foot. Lying at the heart of the city, just a stone’s throw from the station, Piazza dei Signori is the ideal spot to stop and enjoy either a local Proseccobased aperitivo, or a light lunch. The area’s neighbouring streets are packed with elegant shops, cut across by pretty canals offering lots of fabulous photo opportunities. Both the city’s Casa dei Carraresi and the Santa Caterina museum host important art exhibitions. While in the area, make sure to sample radicchio di Treviso, a homegrown specialty. A go-to destination for a snack is the Osteria dalla Gigia, Via Barberia, 20, whose signature dish is ‘mozzarelle in carrozza’, a type of fried cheese sandwich. Padua: home to one of the oldest universities in the world, Padua is a city deserving an entire day’s sightseeing. Among the list of things to do, top sights include the Scrovegni Chapel, Giotto’s masterpiece, but also the famous Church of Sant’Antonio, a pilgrimage site and the burial place of St Anthony of Padua (1193–1231). The city is also home to the oldest botanical garden in the world, planted in 1545 by Padua’s

Vicenza, Teatro Olimpico

Padua, Scrovegni Chapel 18  W H E R E V E N I C E I J U LY 2018

A UNIQUE BLEND OF HISTORY AND ART Top. One of Vicenza’s artistic marvels, the Teatro Olimpico is included in UNESCO’s list of World Heritage Sites. Left, Giotto’s magnificent frescoes, narrating events in the lives of the Virgin Mary and Christ, cover the walls of the Scrovegni Chapel (Padua). Above, Piazza delle Erbe in Verona was the town's forum during the time of the Roman Empire. Right, the beautiful castle of Miramare (10 km from Trieste) offers a charming panoramic view.

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Verona, Piazza delle Erbe


University medical faculty to study the medicinal properties of rare plants. A new area dedicated to bio-diversity was also recently added, opening up new prospects for the future. In terms of gastronomy, local specialties include a variety of cold cuts and the city’s signature ‘gallina padovana’ which you can taste at the Ai Navigli restaurant in Via Riviera Tiso, 11. La Folperia in Piazza della Frutta is an absolute must for an aperitivo. It’s a simple kiosk selling local fish specialties and the king of street food par excellence. One hour by train from Venice Vicenza: if you’re a fan of Renaissance architecture, take a train and head to Vicenza. Its main square houses the famous basilica designed by Andrea Palladio, the most important architect of the High Renaissance. The entire life of the city revolves around the Basilica. Palladio also designed the city’s renowned Teatro Olimpico. This Renaissance marvel is well worth a visit or, failing that, a ticket to one of the many live shows performed here. Stop at a restaurant and sample the city’s famous ‘Baccalà alla Vicentina’ (Vicenza-style codfish) served with polenta. The people of Vicenza are so proud of this dish that the city even has a confraternity dedicated to keeping the 500-year-old recipe of ‘Baccalà alla Vicentina’ alive, and, believe it or not, there is also a codfish ice cream flavour. The go-to address is El Coq in Piazza dei Signori, where the chef enjoys creating innovative dishes using this important ingredient of Veneto cuisine.

TOWARDS VIENNA WITH THE NEW “SPIRIT OF VENICE” While air travel to North America has increased (in May 2017 American Airlines inaugurated a direct route from Venice to Chicago), rail travel to Europe has also grown. One of the best ways to enjoy spectacular panoramic Alpine views is by train. For the past few months it’s been possible to travel from Venice to Austria by train with two daily connections, thanks to OBB, an Austrian railway company. The new Railjet “The Spirit of Venice” connects Venice to the Austrian cities of Villach, Klagenfurt and Vienna safely and comfortably. Amenities include on board Wi-Fi, and there's a top notch dining car for first class passengers. The trip to Vienna lasts eight hours and you can enjoy the changing scenery from the Italian plains to the Austrian Alps. www.obb-italia.com

Trieste, Castle of Miramare Verona: Founded by the Romans in the 1st century AD, the city of Verona is dotted with pretty palazzi, elegant squares and medieval gems. Best-known as home to star-crossed lovers Romeo and Juliet, its major attractions include the Arena, an architectural remnant of the Roman era, and a venue for the city’s annual summer opera festival, the beautiful Castelvecchio Museum and piazza delle Erbe. There are so many churches to see that you’ll be spoilt for choice. No visit would be complete without stopping to see San Zeno, a masterpiece of Italian Romanesque style. When you’re tired of sightseeing, indulge in a break at one of the city’s small ‘osterie’ for a glass of Valpolicella, the famous wine produced just a short distance from here. Before leaving Verona, make sure to head to pasticceria Flego in Piazza Borsari 9, to purchase a box of ‘Baci di Giulietta’, the city’s signature sweet treats made from almonds and walnuts. Bassano del Grappa: this picturesque town lying at the foot of the mountains is renowned for its namesake spirit, grappa. Its Palladian covered wooden bridge over the River Brenta is a highlight of the small historic centre. Also known at the Ponte Vecchio or the Ponte Alpini, it serves as a reminder of the events that took place during World War I. The city is also famous for its centuries-old production of handcrafted ceramics that you can purchase at one of the town’s many shops. While in the area, make sure to book a guided tour of one of the distilleries that produce grappa, Italy’s ‘acquavite’ of choice. One of the most famous is Poli. Located in via Gamba 6, this renowned distillery also boasts a must-visit Grappa Museum. At the end of the tour, guests will be treated to a tasting session, accompanied by sweet or savoury snacks. Opened in

December 2010, and located at number 8 Salita Ferracina, Palazzo delle Misture is the ideal spot for a pre or post-dinner drink. In addition to an excellent selection of local wines, the venue also features an entire room dedicated to absinth, where you can taste historical brands dating from the late 1800s to the early 1900s. Two hours by train from Venice Trieste: just a two-hour train ride from Venice, the city of Trieste is a must-visit destination. The port and its architecture, reminiscent of central European cities, blend to create an elegant, captivating backdrop. When visiting Trieste you can remain in the centre and stroll through its picturesque alleys, or head to Miramare, the beautiful castle built in the late 1850s by Archiduke Maximilian, brother of Austrian Emperor Franz Joseph. Sitting on a rocky outcrop overlooking the sea, both the castle – whose interior décor has remained intact – and the park are well worth a visit. A ride on the Opicina tram which connects the centre of Trieste with the village of Villa Opicina in the hills above is definitely unmissable. Inaugurated in 1902, the 'tram de Opicina' (as it’s known in the local dialect) climbs up five kilometers, including 800 meters on a 26% incline, across splendid landscapes and with wonderful views of the gulf. This is a unique opportunity to take some wonderful photos. Trieste is the Mediterranean's main coffee port, and it's also a hub for the coffee industry. In fact, the city is home to Illy, one of the world’s best-known coffee brands. Countless locales bear witness to the city’s history, and, if you head to Piazza Unità d’Italia you can choose your favourite. The best place for an aperitivo is Urbanis, in Piazza della Borsa 15. In addition to other symbols, the venue’s mosaic flooring features the Bora, the wind that blows over Trieste. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com  19


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With its markets, ‘osterie’ and artisanal ‘botteghe’, the ancient and CAMPO DE LA BECARIE Giovanni picturesque neighbourhood of Rialto San reveals one of the most CAMPO Grisostomo CESARE BATTISTI authentic sides of Venice. B Y S I M O N A P. K . D A V I D D I GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

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when crossing it and because the city’s mint was located at its easternmost end. In 1250, its wooden piles were replaced by a mobile structure and its name was changed to the Rialto bridge. A dark period followed. In fact, during this time, the bridge collapsed and was damaged several times. It was only in 1588 that the Senate of the Serenissima decided to announce a competition to finally rebuild a stone bridge. Numerous renowned architects submitted their projects, including Sansovino, Vignola and Palladio. However the daring but scenically impact-making design submitted by the aptly named Antonio da Ponte was chosen. His bridge consisted of a single 22 meter stone arch span, supported by a broad rectangular deck carrying two arcades of shops and ‘botteghe’ fronting on three roadways. Legend has it that da Ponte was visited by Satan himself who, in exchange for his help, asked the architect to pledge the soul of the first person crossing the bridge to him. The architect thought that he would trick Satan by having a cock cross the bridge for the first time. However, on learning about this deception, Satan vindicated himself by tricking da Ponte’s pregnant wife into crossing the bridge. Her child was stillborn, and according to legend, its soul wandered haplessly, for years, on the Rialto bridge, until a gondolier finally helped it to cross over to the other side.

Even the famous street market boasts a storied past. In fact, historic documents testify to its presence way back in 1097 when it was much larger than its current counterpart and sold exotic goods and spices and precious fabrics. THE FAMOUS MARKET. Currently Venice’s market par excellence, it is divided into the Pescaria, where fish caught in the lagoon are sold, and the Erbaria, whose vendors sell only the freshest, seasonal fruit and vegetables. Although a visit to this market means elbowing one’s way among throngs of Venetian shoppers, the market nevertheless boasts two gems of historic and artistic interest: a loggia dating back to 1907 featuring a blaze of maritime and symbolic decorations, including a number of esoteric elements that are mixed in with the fish, lobsters and octopi sculpted on the capitals of its colonnade. More attentive visitors will also notice a marble plaque embedded in one of its red brick facades,

which shows regulations set centuries ago for minimum allowable sizes for lagoon fish. FOR SHOPPING ADDICTS. However, Rialto also means shopping. While strolling through the ‘rione’s’ tiny streets or when crossing its bridge, you’ll come across several unusual shops that are imbued with the atmosphere of a bygone era. These include antique shops, artisans’ workshops, old book binding shops where books are still bound according to time-honoured tradition, and jewelry stores selling original creations made from Murano glass beads. On the other hand, those in search of an amazing experience, should head to the old post office which now houses the T Fondaco dei Tedeschi, a lavish, highend department store and a magnificent feat of architecture that has been updated to brilliantly balance the old with new. The building boasts a marvelous terrace offering visitors a 360-degree view over Venice.

A HUB OF COMMERCE The Rialto Bridge is the dividing line between the districts of San Marco and San Polo. It is lined on both sides by shops, and includes 120 steps. Right, the porticos of the Rialto fish market. Below, the Erbaria market selling fruit and vegetables, and the Pescaria (fish market).

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WHERE NOW | SHOPPING

GIFT

GUIDE This month, spending a little time in search of a new accessory, a jewel or a special gift, becomes even more pleasurable. Take advantage of a stroll through the picturesque ‘calli’ of Venice to treat yourself to some alluring detail of style. Where guarantees that you won’t leave empty-handed!

► AL DUCA D’AOSTA Haute couture, exquisite fabrics, a sought-after design and attention to detail: these are the characteristics of the ‘Al Duca d’Aosta 1902’ collection, whose textures and colours draw inspiration from the elegance of the past, like this pure red linen men’s shirt. www.alducadaosta.com

®

Giulia Minero Lifestyle & News Editor Where ® Italia

▲ RENÉ CAOVILLA This flat thong, burgundy satin ‘Foulard’ sandal is customized with long, soft patterned ties to be tied around the ankle and a slender strap with diamante detailing, fastened with a small side buckle. A unique accessory, reflecting the brand’s daring, decadent aesthetic. www.renecaovilla.com

22  W H E R E V E N I C E I J U LY 2018

◄ SALVADORI DIAMOND ATELIER Crafted in rose gold with 102 diamonds totalling over 0.70 carats, these cufflinks from the ‘Vela’ collection are a miniature masterpiece of art, inspired by views of the sea from a white beach in Sardinia. www.salvadori-venezia.eu

► MARINA RINALDI ‘Samoa’ is a shopper with fringing at the front, double handles, a colourful removable shoulder strap and a press stud fastening. Its unlined interior, edged with a multi-coloured grosgrain ribbon, hosts a pochette in the same colour. www.marinarinaldi.com


► MIU MIU A part of the ‘Noir’ collection, these original sunglasses feature round frames with a heart motif formed by creatively juxtaposing coloured acetate elements. This model in cherry + red is a limited edition – a must-have, collector’s item. www.miumiu.com

▼ ETRO These Chandelier earrings, adorned with Baroque details in relief and micro rhinestones, are embellished with red tear drops of varying sizes. Retro inspiration for an original piece, designed for truly special occasions. www.etro.com

► MICHELE DE FINA VENEZIA

This pure silk scarf by Michele de Fina, a Venetian brand renowned for its superior craftsmanship, is branded with the label’s elegant red ribbon print. www.micheledefina.it

◄ HERMÈS ‘Myrrhe Eglantine’, the new fragrance from the Hermessence Collection, is a unisex eau de toilette boasting a delicate scent with a citrusy bite. A perfect blend of myrrh and wild rose hip. www.hermes.com

◄ ROLEX Designed to meet the demands of professional racing drivers, the ‘Cosmograph Daytona’ incorporates a high precision 4130 Perpetual movement and an Oysterflex bracelet. The counters and detailing of the black dial are in Everose gold, an exclusive pink gold alloy created and patented by Rolex. www.rolex.com

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When fabrics are masterpieces The Bevilacqua family has handed down the art of weaving for three centuries. The (incredible) history of an establishment that could only exist in Venice. By Elena Binda

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n evocative, surprising place, a form of craftsmanship that exemplifies artisanal skills and culture, a business that combines managerial expertise and ancient savoir faire: all this is Tessitura Luigi Bevilacqua, an establishment that embodies the concept of Italian excellence to perfection. At its weaving workshops, located in Venice’s historic centre, scrupulously trained artisans work on 18th century looms. The geometric or floral patterns that decorate velvets and brocades are not limited to ‘imitating’ the decorations of antique fabrics but ‘are’ the genuine thing. All of the fabrics woven by the company are based on the original designs preserved in the family’s archives: a cultural patrimony that could easily be housed in a museum but which, instead, is applied to the everyday working of fabrics, based on 24  W H E R E V E N I C E I J U LY 2018

the tradition of keeping the time-honoured heritage of artisanship alive. The origins of the business date back to the dawn of time. They are interwoven with the ageold history of the city, with its tradition of artisans and merchants who crossed the seas, bringing back with them treasures that were appreciated world-wide. True works of art just waiting to be transformed into garments or accessories, curtains or furnishings, tapestries or stage costumes, Bevilacqua’s fabrics are also in great demand on international markets. Now as then, all the stages of the working process are executed by hand. These refined, hand woven fabrics are destined to decorate royal palaces, theatres and homes throughout the world. Its fabrics are so exquisite that even the ‘greats’ of fashion were unable to resist them.

>> Tessitura Luigi Bevilacqua Santa Croce, 1320. T: 041 721566 www.luigi-bevilacqua.com


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT VENICE.WHEREITALIA.COM

The

Guidelines

This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. MAP LOCATIONS- Note that references in bold at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 62-63. TRANSPORT-References to vaporetto lines and stops are based on departure from the Santa Lucia railway station. SHOPPING -Shopping hours are generally from 10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Venice) and on Monday mornings. Ask your concierge. Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.

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Tips to purchase Murano glass In order to protect local craftsmanship and guarantee the authenticity of recently purchased products, a group of Muranese glass companies, in collaboration with the Regione Veneto, has created a trademark to guarantee that products have been made in Murano according to the traditional techniques used by master glassblowers. Management of the registered Vetro Artistico® Murano trademark is entrusted to the Promovetro Murano Consortium, which boasts a membership of fifty companies. Depending on the type of working process involved, the adhesive sticker can be either red or blue. It also shows the manufacturer’s identification code on the top. In 2016, a serial number and a data matrix code were added to the sticker. These serve as additional proof that the product purchased is a genuine Murano-made item. (by G.M.) www.muranoglass.com - www.promovetro.com

TAX-FREE SHOPPING

By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund. UnionPay Service Hotline: 00 800 800 95516 e-mail: europe@unionpayintl.com

DINING

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30 € or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. SIGHTSEEING

Information about our selection of museums and monuments is checked as carefully as possible. However, opening hours and site accessibility are subject to change depending on the time of the year. Ask your concierge.

PHOTO ©DFS

UnionPay is an international bankcard association based in China and serves the world’s largest cardholder base. With more than 7 billion cards issued worldwide, UnionPay has become the mayor payment method of the outbound Chinese. By March 2018, almost 600,000 merchants in Italy accept UnionPay card for payment, among which 7,000 merchants are located in Venice. This allows hundred of thousands of affluent Chinese customers to shop with their favourite cards. UnionPay also actively work with famous retail groups, such as DFS Group, Coin Excelsior, Airport dutyfree shops, to provide special discount or services for UnionPay cardholders.

The luxury heart of Venice Just steps from the Rialto Bridge, luxury department store T Fondaco dei Tedeschi offers the best of shopping, food and authentic Venetian craftsmanship. All under one roof. Spanning 7,000 square meters, the very first DFS retail space in Europe features an exceptional array of Italian and international fashion brands, accessories, jewelry and watches, wines and spirits, fragrances and beauty products. An authentic shopping experience in an emblematic historic building. Built in 1228, for almost 800 years it was a hub of culture and trade. This lavish four-storey department store is used as a space for events, exhibitions and cultural initiatives but also as a venue designed to promote authentic Venetian craftsmanship. The ground floor atrium is home to AMO, the exclusive Venetian café/restaurant run by the Alajmo brothers offering a gastronomic experience embodying the real soul of Venice (www.alajmo.it/amo). And, to top it all, this stunning historic building overlooking the Grand Canal is also a gem of architecture which, per se, is worth a visit: the view from the rooftop terrace is breathtaking! T Fondaco dei Tedeschi. Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge) www.tfondaco.com

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[ FA SHION DESIGNERS]

Luxury Top Brands A new addition every day! The world of designer boutiques in Venice is making waves, and the majority of big-name brands are located around St. Mark’s Square, the great heart of Venice. By heading towards the Accademia from St. Mark’s Square, you will find yourself in Calle Larga XXII Marzo, the widest street in the city, lined with the window displays of the most coveted international brands. A system of ‘calli’ (the word for street in Venetian dialect) known as the ‘Mercerie’ leads from the Clock Tower in St. Mark’s Square to the Rialto, where Venice’s old ‘botteghe’ (workshops) have now been replaced by luxury boutiques.

DEPARTMENT STORES T FONDACO DEI TEDESCHI—Tfondaco.com Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge) T: 041 3142000. Map F3 COIN EXCELSIOR—www.coinexcelsior.com Cannaregio, 5787 (Rialto Bridge) T: 041 5203581. Map F3

ALBERTA FERRETTI—www.albertaferretti.com San Marco, 295/296. T: 041 5220772. Map F4

DOLCE&GABBANA—www.dolcegabbana.it San Marco, 2188 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5209991. Map F4

BALENCIAGA—www.balenciaga.com San Marco, 1310 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5230806. Map F5

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA—www.zegna.com Bocca di Piazza San Marco, 1241. T: 041 5221204. Map F4

BALLY—www.bally.it San Marco, 4919-4921 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5285839. Map F4

ETRO—www.etro.com San Marco, 1340 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5232599. Map F5

BOGGI MILANO—www.boggi.com San Marco, 1744 (Bacino Orseolo). T: 041 2960321. Map E4 • Stazione Santa Lucia (Fondamenta S. Lucia, 20). T: 041 5246445. Map C3

FENDI—www.fendi.com San Marco, 1582 (Calle Frezzaria). T: 041 2778532. Map F4

BORSALINO—www.borsalino.com San Marco, 4822 (Calle del Lovo). T: 041 2411945. Map F4 BOTTEGA VENETA—www.bottegaveneta.com San Marco, 1473 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5228489. Map F5 BULGARI—www.bulgari.com San Marco, 1494. T: 041 2410553. Map F4

GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani.com San Marco, 2282 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 8503048. Map F4 GUCCI—www.gucci.com San Marco, 2102 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2413968. Map F4 • San Marco, 258 (Mercerie). T: 041 5229119. Map E5

CARTIER—www.cartier.it San Marco, 1474/1495 (Calle San Moisè). T: 041 8842511. Map F4

HERMÈS—italy.hermes.com San Marco, 1292 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2410715. Map F5

CHANEL —www.chanel.com San Marco, 2070 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2405399. Map E5 CHANEL BEAUTY San Marco, 1254/A. T: 041 2708699. Map F3

HUGO BOSS—www.hugoboss.com Piazza San Marco, 80 (Bacino Orseolo 1218). T: 041 5224378. Map F4

CHOPARD—www.chopard.com Piazza San Marco, 51. T: 041 5231883. Map F4

CLARKS— www.clarks.eu. Cannaregio, 5586 (Salizada S. Canzian). T: 041 5229946. Map F3 DAMIANI —www.damiani.com San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Map F5

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FURLA—www.furla.com San Marco, 4833 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 2770460.Map F4

BURBERRY—it.burberry.com San Marco, 2308 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 240291. Map E5

CHURCH’S—www.church-footwear.com San Marco, 1316 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2410147. Map F5

A perfect summer edit, FRATELLI ROSSETTI’s suede loafer with band from the ‘Yacht’ line features a slender, ultra-light rubber sole.

FRATELLI ROSSETTI—www.fratellirossetti.com Campo San Salvador, 4800. T: 041 5230571. Map F4 • San Marco, 1477 (San Moisè). T: 041 5220819. Map F5

DIOR— www.dior.com San Marco, 1255 (Calle Larga de l’Ascension). T: 041 2411636. Map F5

JIMMY CHOO—www.jimmychoo.com San Marco, 1289. T: 041 5224510. Map F4 LORO PIANA—www.loropiana.com San Marco Ascensione, 1301. T: 041 2770695. Map F5 LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com San Marco, 1345. T: 041 5224500. Map F5 MAX MARA—it.maxmara.com San Marco, 5033 (Mercerie). T: 041 5226688. Map F5 MICHAEL KORS—www.michaelkors.comwww.michaelkors.it San Marco, 1461 (Campo San Moisè). T: 041 2960312. Map F5 MISSONI— www.missoni.com San Marco, 1318/A (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5205733. Map F5


MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com San Marco, 1471 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 8106066. Map F5 MONCLER—www.moncler.com San Marco, 2088 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2960605. Map E5

VERSACE—www.versace.com San Marco, 1462 (Campo San Moisè). T: 041 5200057. Map F5 Floral vision. GIORGIO ARMANI’s catwalk sunglasses are designed to turn heads. Round, flat metal frames are combined with a straight top bar, accented by fun floral-patterned lenses.

MONTBLANC—www.montblanc.com San Marco, 2380 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2413747. Map F5 PRADA—www. prada.com San Marco, 1464/1469 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5283966. Map F5 RENÉ CAOVILLA— www.renecaovilla.com San Marco, 1296. T: 041 5238038. Map F4

ROBERTO CAVALLI— www.robertocavalli.com San Marco, 1314. T: 041 5299020. Map F5 ROCCA 1794— www.rocca1794.com Piazza San Marco, 125. T: 041 5201014. Map F4 SAINT LAURENT—www.ysl.com San Marco, 1302. T: 041 5202211. Map F4 SALVADORI DIAMOND ATELIER— www.salvadori-venezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Map F4 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— www.ferragamo.com. San Marco, 2098 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2778509. Map E5 SWAROVSKI—www.swarovski.com San Marco, 256 (Mercerie dell’Orologio). T: 041 5210618. Map F4 SWATCH—www.swatch.com San Marco, 5022 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5228532. Map F4 TIFFANY & CO.—www.tiffany.it San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Map F5 TOD’S—www.tods.com San Marco, 2251 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5206603. Map E5

The new ‘Graffiti’ capsule collection by MICHAEL MICHAEL KORS features accessories inspired by street art. Standouts include the graffiti that covered the walls of New York in the 1980s.

Sizing Women,s clothes IT EUR US UK 36 32 1 4 38 34 2 6 40 36 4 8 42 38 6 10 44 40 8 12 46 42 10 14 48 44 12 16 Women,s shoes IT EUR US UK 36 36 6 3 37 37 6.5 4 38 38 7.5 5 39 39 8.5 6 40 40 9 7 41 41 9.5 8 Men,s clothes IT EUR US UK 50 46 36 36 52 48 38 38 54 50 40 40 56 52 42 42 58 54 44 44 60 56 46 46 Men,s shoes IT EUR US UK 40 40 7.5 6 41 41 8 7 42 42 8.5 8 43 43 9 9 44 44 10.5 10 45 45 11.5 11 46 46 12 12

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SHOPPING

Tax Free Refund Guide 1. VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a value added tax on goods and services, and is part of the European Union’s value added tax system. 2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a VAT refund. This refund does not cover the services supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies. 3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: • you are a non-EU resident; • the goods purchased are intended for personal or family use only and are carried in your luggage; • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds 154,94 Euro (VAT included); • the purchase is certified by an invoice. This invoice should include a description of the goods purchased, your personal information as well as the details of your passport or any other equivalent document; • the goods leave EU territory by the end of the third month after the month that you bought them; • several specific customs formalities are complied with; • the invoice is returned to the Italian retailer within four months after the purchase was made. 4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must be shown at the customs exit point when leaving EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items into your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs BEFORE checking in). 5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return the original invoice, regularly endorsed by the customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice must be returned within four months from the date when the document was issued. 6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian retailer (however, make sure that the shop you’ve chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax Free” sign in its window). 7. Several Tax-Free companies are able to offer immediate VAT cash refunds when the goods leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating the passenger from having to return the invoice to the retailer). However, this procedure only applies at major international airports or main border crossings. Most major department stores have Tax Free Refund offices. 8. The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply the payment of a small administrative sum which is directly deducted from the amount of VAT refunded to the traveller. 9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund within a reasonable period of time, he or she should re-contact the Italian retailer or one of the aforementioned companies. 10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded directly by customs offices. Source: www.agenziadoganemonopoli.gov.it/ portale/ee/citizen/vta-refund

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ACCESSORIES Anatema Rossana Righini delights customers with her scarves, brooches, costume jewelry, bags, hats and silk, handmade ties. Her windows and display cases express the owner’s philosophy: “The culture of beauty, the magic of elegance”. PASSION TIP Anatema also stocks small Murano glass jewelry. Open daily 10am2pm/3pm-7pm. www.anatema.it. San Polo, 2603. T: 041 5242221. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Francis Model Stylish, high-quality bags with a focus on colour. Established in 1965, this small artisanal ‘bottega’ has always remained faithful to the diktats of Made in Italy craftsmanship. Located just steps from the Rialto Bridge, Ruggero De Zorzi devotes himself to his craft with pride and passion. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.francismodel.it. San Polo, 773/A (Ruga Ravano). T: 041 5212889. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato stop). Map E3

G. Pagan The result of ongoing research, G. Pagan’s bags and accessories are made from prized materials: crocodile, python and even eel. Everything here is about style, it’s worth a visit! It also has another store in Calle della Mandola. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco, 54 (Sotto le Procuratie). T: 041 5208924. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Map F5

Giovanna Zanella For the past ten years, Venetian designer-cobbler Giovanna Zanella has been creating exclusive lines of shoes for men and women at her workshop located just a stone’s throw from the Rialto Bridge. Each pair is endowed with its own, unrepeatable personality because they are often enhanced by a surprise element like touches of nylon, cobra heads, pistils or fringes. Open Mon-Sat 1.30pm-8pm. www.giovannazanella. it. Castello, 5641 (Calle near Campo San Lio). T: 041 5235500. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Giuliana Longo A milliner boasting a longstanding family tradition dating back to the early 20th century, Giuliana Longo’s fame has spread far beyond the boundaries of Venice, thanks to her unique Venetian aesthetic. Her shop is the dream hat-cupboard of any true sartorialist, amidst old-world furnishings, original panama hats and handmade headgear. PASSION TIP The only shop in town where you can find authentic gondolier’s hats. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.giulianalongo.com. San Marco, 4813 (Calle del Lovo).T: 041 5226454. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

La Parigina An historic Venetian shoe shop which has been producing its own-name sleek, buttersoft leather shoes for men and women since the 1940s. It also stocks a wide selection of international brands including Church’s, Timberland, Camper, Michael Kors, Bikkemberg sandals and Siton loafers. La Parigina also carries an assortment of luxury sportswear. www.laparigina.it. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco, 733. T: 041 5231555.

Blue & Gold Murano glass vase from the ‘Murano Art’ collection by THE MERCHANT OF VENICE: a perfect blend of artistic perfumery and glass making.

Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4 • Open daily 9am-1pm/4pm-8pm. Venezia Lido, Gran Viale S. M. Elisabetta 14, T: 041 2420475. Vaporetto line 2 (Lido stop). Off Map

Macrì This shoe boutique in San Marco - its other branch is located in Frezzeria - has been a reference point for discerning Venetians since the 1970s. Its owner Jacopo Nobili sells sought-after, classic men and women’s shoes, distinguished by their Made in Italy aesthetic. Open daily 10am7.30pm. San Marco, 420 (Calle Larga). T: 041 522 9956. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco stop) Map F4• Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco Frezzeria, 1583. T: 041 522 8997.

Michele De Fina Highly select leather shoes, its owner oversees each stage of the working process from the cutting of the leather to the end creation. Craftsmanship and Italian style are the hallmark traits of Venetian shoe designer Michele De Fina. Open daily 10am-1pm/2pm-7pm. www. micheledefina.com. San Marco, 318/A (Calle della Canonica). T: 041 3030189. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop or San Zaccaria stop).

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René Caovilla In the 1950s, twenty-year-old René started working at his family’s footwear factory, revealing his talent as a ‘footwear sculptor’. Based in Venice, he has collaborated with fashion houses of the likes of Valentino, Dior, Galliano, Chanel and is noted for the stunning line of "jewel shoes" he co-created with Karl Lagerfeld. Shoe-designer to the stars, A-listers who adore his creations include Gwen Stefani, Robin Wright, Britney Spears and Sarah Jessica Parker. PASSION TIP His pumps in Venetian lace are truly iconic! Open daily 10am-7pm. www.renecaovilla.com. San Marco, 1296. T: 041 5238038. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map F4

CLOTHING MEN & WOMEN Al Duca d'Aosta Originally established in Venice in 1902, Al Duca d’Aosta now boasts stores in six cities across the Triveneto region: Venice, Padua, Verona, Mestre, Treviso and Udine. The historical four-storey


SHOPPING Venice location features over 100 top fashion brands for men and women, carefully selected to offer its clientele quality and elegance. These include casual men’s lines for a sporty-chic look, sartorial designs for savvy-style gentlemen and women’s wear, featuring the iconic accessories of the latest collections, including small leather goods and bijoux, for a glamorous, cosmopolitan aesthetic. The store offers numerous special facilities and services for its customers, including a Personal Shopping service and Tax Free Shopping. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.alducadaosta.com. San Marco, 4945. T: 041 5220733. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Marina Rinaldi

Boggi Milano

Three exclusive boutiques set against the magnificent backdrop of Palazzo Regina Vittoria in the heart of Venice. Pot-Pourrì carries clothing and fashion accessories for him and her, artisanal Made-in-Italy collections and a selection of international brands, skillfully mixed with the flair for which the brand is renowned. Couture dresses, handcrafted accessories and knitwear woven in cashmere, silk and natural fibers. The boutiques also stock a selection of accessories and homeware inspired by a classical contemporary aesthetic including knick-knacks and objet d’art for the home, bathroom and table (also ideal for wedding gift lists). Private boat landing stage. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.potpourri.it. Womenswear: San

An easy yet sophisticated look for businessmen on the go, but, above all, a guarantee of style for those who appreciate quality. Boggi Milano offers garments aimed at a contemporary, modern and cosmopolitan man who is not prepared to sacrifice the classics of the male wardrobe: the suit, a second skin that is so comfortable that it can be worn on any occasion. Other locations: Cannaregio (inside the Santa Lucia Railway Station, Platform 6- Fondamenta Santa Lucia, 20) and Marco Polo Airport. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.boggi.com. San Marco, 1744 (Bacino Orseolo). T: 041 2960321. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Advertorial

Renowned for its tasteful, plus-size apparel for fashionable women, Marina Rinaldi offers a wide range of collections, featuring both contemporary and classic lines that are updated on a seasonal basis. These include dresses, jackets, coats, bags, accessories for a total look that exudes class and elegance. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun and festivities 11am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm. it.marinarinaldi. com. San Marco, 5028 (Merceria San Salvador). T: 041 2770064. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop).

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Pot-Pourrì

Marco, 1810 (Ramo dei Fuseri) - T: 041 2410990. Menswear: 1811/m (Ramo dei Fuseri) - T: 041 5221332. Homewares: San Marco, 1820/m (Frezzeria) - T: 041 5201996. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 San Marco Vallaresso stop Map E4

DEPARTMENT STORES Coin Excelsior Located in Cannaregio, just a few steps from the Rialto Bridge, this luxury department store store extends over four floors surrounding the original indoor courtyard where designer Felice Limosani’s lighting installation is showcased. The store provides a selection of both Italian and International fashion brands, as well as furniture (on the top floor), cosmetics and luxury perfumery (ground floor). Open daily 10am8.30pm. www.coinexcelsior.com. Cannaregio, 5787. T: 041 5203581. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F3

T Fondaco dei Tedeschi The recently renovated 16th century building that extends over 7000 sqm is a luxury shopping, food and cultural destination. Surrounding a central courtyard, the store offers the best in leading Italian and international fashion brands, accessories, jewellery and watches, wines and spirits, beauty and fragrances, food and a rich selection of local gifts. Don’t miss the specially curated cultural program on the 4th floor and

Art, luxury and elegance

For more than 30 years, FREYWILLE has been setting new standards in jewellery design, enameling processes and internationalization. The heart of every jewellery piece is the distinctive and artistically designed fire enamel that is applied in many layers and then fired. Up to 100 manual steps are necessary to produce a delicate and colour-intense fire enamel plate, shining with a stunning brilliance. All FREYWILLE Venezia jewellery pieces are hand-made in Vienna by masters of the genre, who guard the secret process: as passionate and experienced artists, they guarantee that the unique jewellery is of the highest quality. FREYWILLE has a long history of paying tribute to Venice’s heritage, incorporating quintessential Italian symbols, colours, and other elements in its products. The opulent and elegant jewellery collection “Hommage à Venice” highlights Venice’s architectural beauty and history. With the winged Lion as the centerpiece of the design, each magical piece of jewellery captures the story behind this special symbol and hallmark of the city as well as that of St Mark, one of Venice’s patron saints.

FREYWILLE Venezia Piazza San Marco, 53 T: 041 5200807 www.freywille.com

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SHOPPING EDITOR'S TIP

EXCLUSIVE VENICE MAP BY WHERE ITALIA

and Desigual. Easy to reach from Venice via the shuttle service (available twice a day from “Venezia Tronchetto”, Mestre and Marghera), it offers endless entertainment, from the children’s adventure play area to restaurants and cafés and even an annual summer music festival. Facilities: ATM cash machine, cafés, restaurants, kids play area, baby-changing rooms, free parking, store map and guides, multilingual customer service, wheelchair accessible, free Wi-Fi, personal shopper (on request with extra charge), dogs admitted to the outlet village (admission in stores depending on the store policy), Tax Refund for Non-EU citizens and Currency Exchange on-site agency. Open daily 10am-8pm. www. mcarthurglen.com. Via Marco Polo, 1 (Noventa di Piave, 30 minutes from Venice). T: 0421 5741. Off Map

Palmanova Outlet Village The new city maps by Where® Italia are handdrawn, with Indian ink and watercolours, using the ‘bird’s eye view’ technique. The map is designed by Italian illustrator and publicist Mario Camerini, who is currently working on reproducing remarkable maps of all Italian cities for Where® Italia. For info: info@whereitalia.com. ▼Museo di Palazzo Mocenigo, 14 May 2018. Marco Vidal, The Merchant of Venice (left) and Andrea Jarach, Where® Italia at the annual Where event.

Just one hour from Venice, Palmanova Outlet Village offers 90 stores with the trendiest brands discounted by up to 70% and open all year around: Adidas-Reebok, Aldo Bruè, Baldinini, Alberta Ferretti-Moschino, Calvin Klein, Fedon, Iceberg, Ixos-Malloni, Nike, Piquadro, Pollini and many others. Tax refund for Non-EU citizens. In addition to shopping, Palmanova Outlet Village makes you discover a land full of history and taste: the picturesque hills of the Collio region, the landscapes of Friuli’s Dolomites and the Alps, close to the Karst plateau with the historical sites of the Great War and the star-shaped city of Palmanova, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Open daily 10am-8pm. www.palmanovaoutlet.it. Take the A4 highway Venezia-Trieste and exit at Palmanova. Infoline: T: 0432 837810. Off Map

JEWELRY & WATCHES Audemars Piguet A must-visit stopover for luxury watch lovers. A purveyor of classic watches since 1875, Audemars Piguet is the place to go for elegant timepieces, made to the very highest standards. Open MonSat 10.30am-6.30pm. www.audemarspiguet.com. Piazza San Marco, 18. T: 041 5285519. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Boncompagni Venezia

the breathtaking view from the roof terrace. In partnership with Premier Tax Free, the store will also offer an instant detax at the cash desk when the payment is made by credit card, the first of this kind in Europe. Open daily 10am8.30pm. www.TFondaco.com. Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge). T: 041 3142000. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3

FASHION OUTLETS Noventa di Piave Designer Outlet With more than 150 stores, cafés and restaurants, visitors can find their favourite labels with price reductions of up to 70%, all year round, and further discounts at the annual summer and winter sales. From iconic fashion brands like Prada, Gucci, Armani, Fendi, Jil Sander and Paul Smith to sporting labels, like Nike and X-Bionic, and high-street favourites, like Guess 30  W H E R E V E N I C E I J U LY 2018

This historic boutique in St. Mark’s Square stocks some of Italy’s most coveted jewelry brands, offering its clientele a unique selection of beautifully crafted pieces. Open MonSat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-6pm. www. boncompagnivenezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 130/131/132. T: 041 5224563. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

damiani.com. San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Vaporetto line 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map F4

Dodo The range of luxurious yet cute gold jewelry created by Dodo, the brand founded by Pomellato in 1995, is by now a classic either for gift or collection purposes thanks to its iconic good luck charms, each of which has its own special meaning. www.dodo.it. c/o Coin Excelsior (www.coinexcelsior.com). Cannaregio, 5787. T: 041 5203581. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F3

Gems of Venice For more than thirty years, Gems of Venice has sourced the most precious stones, which are then processed at its workshop near the Rialto Bridge, in the heart of Venice, to become authentic wearable art. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-9.30pm; Sun 10.30am-2pm/3.30pm-6.30pm. San Polo, 1044. T: 041 5225148. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4

Nardi Venezia A combination of a love of precious stones and a passion for the art of goldsmithery make Nardi’s jewelry rare accessories to be worn or collected, the epitome of sheer Venetian elegance. Open daily 10am-6.30pm. www.nardi-venezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 69. T: 041 5225733. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F5

Officina Bernardi The Bernardi brothers, Francesco and Carlo, recently opened their first monobrand store in the city. Authentic Italian style, exquisite designs and meticulous craftsmanship characterize the precious gold and silver collections of this brand who have made Italian creativity their signature feature. Open daily, 10am-7pm. www. officinabernardi.com. Piazza San Marco, 110. T: 041 5287906. Vaporetto Line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map F5

Omega Omega is a pioneer in the field of watchmaking. Quality and innovation are key to the vision of one of Switzerland’s most famous haute horologists. At its Venetian boutique, you can find all the excellence of these precious creations thanks to its extensive collection of luxurious timepieces for men and women. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.omegawatches. com. San Marco, 1291. T: 041 5220820. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco stop or San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Pomellato

In addition to its renowned collections of haute joaillerie, Cartier is also famous for its priceless timepieces, a perfect mix of design and technology, enhanced by precious metals and diamonds. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am7pm. www.cartier.it. San Marco, 1474/1475 (Calle San Moisè). T: 041 8842511. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

Established in 1967 as an artisanal workshop, over the years, its contemporary jewelry has captivated wearers around the world. Pomellato creates highly sought-after collections featuring a range of stones boasting myriad colours and ultra-feminine designs. Open Mon-Sat 10am7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.pomellato.com. San Marco, 2031 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5231909. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Damiani

Rocca 1794

A reference point in the world of high-end jewelry, Damiani is renowned for its unmistakable style and innovative technical solutions, including its ‘a lunette d’illusione’ setting designed to highlight the brilliance of its stones. www.

The boutique’s sweeping window display, overlooking the famous St. Mark’s Square, host the collections of prestigious brands including Damiani and Salvini, but also the iconic models of some of the world’s most coveted high-end

Cartier


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One of the oldest and finestOspedale mask making SS. Giovann D R IO C A L L E Venice for Carnival, theatre, film workshops L E in SCU O L E E L L as in 1886, the Tiffany ® Setting has been known production and parties. Ca’ Macana crafts CA CAMPO S.MARIA the ultimate symbol of love, paving the way forNOVA authentic handmade masks in the same way that CAMPO DELLA CAL LE San Cassiano ARG PESCARIA Tiffany’s legendary collection of engagement N ZI A N Venetian Lartisans did 800 years ago and each A G N CA . GA watchmakers including A. Lange & Söhne, piaget, DA SA L L IN A S A LI ZAcollections, including Santa Maria rings. Bold, modern the mask is unique. Thanks to their expertise, they R IO CAMPO Hublot, Zenith and Longines. Also particularly DE Basilica dei SAN CASSAN Miracoli CAMPO DE LA I M dei elegant, minimalist creations designed by Elsa also hold conferences and courses on traditional I R worthy of note are the splendid creations in glass BECARIE San Giovanni Santi Giovanni e Paolo AC CA C A LL Peretti and the brightly-coloured lines by OLPaloma mask-making Their masks were LL E D E techniques. CAMPO CAMPO ED I L FO R that add Grisostomo CA E C handcrafted by Venini, unique artifacts NO CESARE BATTISTI CAL LL A’ LE C Picasso, have made Tiffany a destination for ED featured in important film productions including MU SANTI GIOVANNI GIÀ A S EL TEL TI a definite touch of allure to the space. Expert LI DELLA A BO Teatro those seeking spectacular beauty,Malibran style and the E PAOLO BELLA VIENNA TA “Eyes Wide Shut” by Stanley Kubrick and in CAMPO collectors or those who are new to the game SAN can CA LL E DE LE GIACOMETO very best in design. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. ER BE operas including those staged by theChiesa Vienna dell’Ospe C a service of excellence which entails count on CORTE SECONDA DE AM L PIE San Giacomo www.tiffany.it. San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). DEL MILION Opera House. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www. CARAMPANE SA L L NS Opost-sale assistance. Other services full pre- and BA RB AR ON di Rialto IA DE LE DE T: 041 5201037. Vaporetto line 2 (San MarcoI camacana.com. Maskmaking and Courses: TO LE include a full maintenance service with check ups CA Casa di RA Vallaresso stop). Map F5 Dorsoduro, 3215. Showrooms: Dorsoduro, 3172 MP O CAMPO AN and providing international certificates. www. CAMPIELLO E RIALTO and Dorsoduro 1169. T: 041 2776142. Vaporetto DEL SOL Fontego Marco Polo NUOVO rocca1794.com. Open daily 10.30am-7pm. Piazza line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). Map D4 dei Tedeschi O N A02 5201014. Vaporetto line 1 or San Marco, 125. T: AV CA C. D LR LLE Sant’Aponal EL F DE DEL C .M ONT TA A RT P IO 2 (San Marco EGO H EVallaresso stop). Map F4 Eredi Jovon M G IN Ponte B U E ZI

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SHOPPING factory prices or on special offer. The shop is also renowned for its beautiful coral, Murano glass and blackamoor jewelry. High quality, superior craftsmanship and its wide assortment of cameos and customized coral jewelry allow Eredi Jovon to satisfy the individual tastes of even the most discerning customers. WHERE TIP On request, Eredi Jovon creates customized portrait cameos based on photos or digital files. Thanks to an efficient e-commerce service, all creations can be ordered online and shipped worldwide. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.eredijovon.com. Ponte di Rialto, 5325. T: 041 5228979 Map F4

Nicolao Atelier An artisanal tailor’s shop that makes Venetianstyle period costumes for movies, plays, commercials and Carnival parties. More than 10,000 sets of underwear, accessories, headgear and capes, all exhibited in an elegant premises in the centre of Venice that comprise a workshop, a showroom and the entire costume collection. Open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm/2pm-6pm. Only Sat 3-10 February and Sun 4-11 February open 9am1pm/2pm-6pm. www.nicolao.com. Cannaregio, 2590 (Fondamenta della Misericordia). T: 041 5207051. Map E2

4pm (Sat-Sun by appointment). www.luigibevilacqua.com. Santa Croce 1320. T: 041 721566. Map E5

The Merchant of Venice The prestigious stand-alone boutique of this brand which represents the ‘Art of Perfumery in Venice’ is housed in the former, mid-17th century apothecary of San Fantin, located just steps from La Fenice Opera House. Its neo-Gothic décor and ornamentation in walnut, wood and terracotta, reflect the typical style of ancient Venetian ‘palazzi’. The Merchant of Venice is not only a line of products but a wider project which includes a concept store in Murano, the Palazzo Mocenigo Museum in Santa Croce, the Spice shop in Ercole d’Oro (Cannaregio) and the World of Venice space at the Marco Polo Airport.

www.themerchantofvenice.com. Open Tues-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. San Marco, 1895 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 2960559. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Venini An artistic space, where you rediscover all the elegance and sophistication of the exquisite creations handcrafted by Master glassmakers from Murano. A prime location for passionate collectors, or those whose want to further their knowledge about an entirely Italian art, Venetian glass creations, meticulously handcrafted by Master craftsmen. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.venini.com. San Marco, 314. T: 041 5224045. Other location: Fondamenta Vetrai, 47 (Murano). T: 041 2737204. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto or San Marco stops). Map F4

The Rialto Market

Ottica Mantovani Sun and prescription glasses, the most technologically advanced lenses and the most comfortable, fashionable frames. Managed by the Carlon family since the ‘40s, it is now run by the third generation of opticians: a reference point for locals requiring either prescription eyewear or sunglasses. In fact, one of the Mantovani’s most famous customers was Peggy Guggenheim. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. www.otticamantovani.it. San Marco, 4860 (Mercerie del Capitello). T: 041 5223427. Map F4

Ottica Manuela Located in the district of San Marco, this highend optician resembles an atelier rather than a shop. Renowned for its professionalism and attentive service, it offers creations that are real works of art. Its frames for prescription lenses or sunglasses make Ottica Manuela’s iconic eyewear real statement pieces that add a unique touch to every face. Open daily 10am-7pm. San Marco, 3145 (Salizada San Samuele). T: 041 5210268. Map E4

Piedàterre Tucked away under an arcade just steps from the Rialto bridge is a tiny boutique with an astonishing selection of handmade slippers, where Alessandra and Renato make and sell colourful ‘furlane’ (slippers), handcrafted with recycled bicycle-tyre treads, ideal for finding your footing on a gondola. Their creations are available in coloured velvet, brocade, printed fabrics or recycled shirting, provided by their customers. Highly original and absolutely unmissable! Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www. piedaterre-venice.com. San Polo, 60 (Ruga Rialto, Sotoportego dei Oresi). T: 041 5285513. Map E3

Tessitura Bevilacqua Artisanal weavers specializing in the production of exquisite, decorative fabrics for furnishings and curtains. A unique place! Since 1875, the company has practiced the art of weaving on original looms that once belonged to the Venetian School of Silk. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am32  W H E R E V E N I C E I J U LY 2018

Rialto Market A trip to Venice is not complete without a visit to the Rialto Market, possibly one of the city’s most authentic and traditional experiences. This is one of Venice’s most ancient markets, a one-of-a-kind place crowded with Venetians, shopkeepers and tourists eager to shop. It is located near the Rialto Bridge, on the San Polo side, extending across the Canal Grande, between Campo San Giacomo and Campo della Pescaria. Campo San Giacomo is a beautiful square surrounded by a portico called Sottoportego del Bancogiro, an ancient bank where merchants would gather to negotiate. If you’d like to try the famous 'cicchetti', accompanied by a glass of wine or a spritz, a number of 'bacari', Venice’s traditional ‘osterie’, can also be found in the area. Several of these bars face

onto the opposite side of the building, on a magnificent plaza crowded with tables, and from here, if you walk along the river, you’ll reach a large food market, and finally, the Pescaria, the famous Fish Market. From early morning, on any day of the week (except Sunday) this vibrant place is frequented by Venetian locals, who regularly shop here, browsing its colourful stalls that are located under a loggia near the Grand Canal. Inscriptions about fish-related regulatory measures, proclaimed by the Republic of Venice, can still be found on the walls! >> Fish Market: Open Tues-Sat 7.30amnoon. Food Market: Mon-Sat 7.30am1.30pm. San Polo 330-338 (Campo della Pescaria). Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato) or traghetto from Campo Santa Sofia (€2).


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San Giacomo di Rialto

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When visiting Venice for the first or umpteenth time, we hope to find something truly Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto original for an authentic shopping experience. San Francesco An object, created by skilled craftsmen della Vigna S A N P O L O Sant’Aponal that captures the essence of the place or represents a special souvenir, to be kept as a memento or a gift for familySanand friends back home. San Silvestro Lorenzo Ottica Fontego Santa Maria Basilica San Rocco Chiesa Rettoriale Santa Maria the centuries, Dolfin Manin Formosa Palazzo as with all historic cities throughout the world, Venice has cultivated Over Palazzo dei Frari di S. Polo della Fava Grimani Mantovani Rava o della Consolazione ● Palazzo that have given life Teatro San Giovanni artisanal skills to emblematic artifacts, C A Sranging T E Lfrom L Oartistic glass Querini Carlo Goldoni San Salvador di Malta Palazzo Stampalia Querini-Dubois Palazzo La Biennale di Venezia de n a Grimani Educational to paper objects, accessories, fabrics and jewelry. In today’s world, where everything is Arsenale Gr Arsenale di Venezia l a San Giuliano San Tomà Can San Giovanni Novo San Beneto San Luca La Biennale di Venezia an Pantalon manufactured and can be bought – either at shops in the city or online Teatro – those alle Tese items, Palazzo Palazzo Giustinian Nervi San Giorgio Persico Scattolin Palazzo Fortuny dei Greci based on manual work and ancient techniques that have been handed down Arsenale di Venezia Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo from generation to generation, still hold a unique value. San Zaccaria San Martino Basilica di San Marco Santa Maria San Giovanni Battista della Pietà Remember that purchasing a souvenir authentic workshops or -from S A N MSanAFantinR C O in at Bragora La Biennale di Venezia Arsenale artisans Palazzo Palazzo Ducale GrassiNorma's Santo Stefano helps Venice to preserve its traditional artisanal skills and hand them down to Museo San Samuele Correr Ca' Rezzonico ● Teatro la Fenice future generations. San Moisè San Barnaba San Maurizio Palazzo Loredan CO

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Alberto Sarrias Masks ●

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN VA RI SC O

S.Canciano

CAN ZIAN A SAN

San Giovanni Grisostomo

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CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

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San Stae Ca' Pesaro ST Santa Sofia RA Galleria Internazionale D d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro A N O V A

ON

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di Palazzo

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Riva de Biaso

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Hundertwasser' Garden

Since 1980, this family-run business has created papier-mâché mask for the theatre, Carnival parties and as decorative items for the home. Over the years, its owner Alberto Sarria has explored different techniques and materials to create unique pieces. Today, the store has extended its range to include leather goods, crafted according to traditional Venetian artisanal techniques. ISOLA LA GRAZIA

S. Servolo

SAN SERVO

www.masksvenice.com San Polo, 777. T: 041 5207278.

NORMA'S Textile accessories for the home and personal use. From beach towels, bags and furlane (the typical velvet slippers with rubber soles worn by gondoliers) to furnishing accessories such as lamps, lampshades, decorative paintings, authentic Murano glass objet d’art, silverware and cameos. All items are crafted according to traditional artisanal techniques using high-quality ISOLA MadeSAN in Italy materials. CLEMENTE

ISOLA DI SAN LAZZARO DEG

www. teodamar.com Calle de le Botteghe 2995-2996. T: 345 0133552. More info: venice.whereitalia.com

LIDO DI V w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com  33


ARTISTIC GLASS IN MURANO

PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK

VENETIANS

Museo Di Torcello Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta Chiesa di Santa Fosca

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Palazzo Grassi San Samuele

CALLE BERNARDO

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San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale

CALLE

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FONDAMENTA

CALLE

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CAMPO DEI FRARI

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CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO

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Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

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CANAL CORTE

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FONDAMENTA

CALLE CONTARINA

della

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TRAGHETTO CALLE

MARTA SANTA FONDAMENTA

CAMPIELLO LONGHI

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CALLE CAZZA

CALLE SAVIO

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CAMPO NAZARIO SAURO

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DEI AMAI

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DEI

FONDAMENTA

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RIVA FONDAMENTA

CALLE

TERÀ

MADONA

SAN MICHELE

FONDAMENTA

della

CAMPO FONDAMENTA DEI MORI

ER

CALLE TRAGHETTO

Riva de Biaso

CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO

Palazzo Soranzo Capello

Giardino di Palazzo

DE CAMPO

San Nicola da Tolentino

FONDAMENTA

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LA

MIS

CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA

DEL REMER

nde l Gra Cana

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Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia

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The art of solidifying silicon to obtain a hard yet delicate transparent material, suitable for countless purposes, is rooted in the ancient past. According to historians, glass was first made in Mesopotamia in the III millennium B.C. However, several archaeological digs suggest that glassmaking was already practiced in Venice in the 7th century B.C. Furthermore, after the year 1000 A.D., its production had become so important that it was protected by specific laws. There was only one small problem - the presence of glass furnaces in medieval Venice, which was largely built of timber, presented a grave fire hazard.

TORCELLO

ISOLA DEI LAGHI

FONDAME

home on the same day. Furthermore, each piece is unique, meaning that small imperfections are an integral part of the value of the object. In short, if you come across a shop selling mass-produced items that promises quick delivery times or tempts you with low prices, beware. Apart from some exceptions, it’s better to do your glass shopping in Murano rather than in the city of Venice. Don’t worry if you want to buy an object but don’t have time to wait: the island’s glass factories are now equipped to make safe deliveries anywhere in the world.

DI

As a result, in 1291, for safety reasons, the Great Council ordered the glass workers to transfer to the Island of Murano, where they created a district that still exists. It was here that in the 13th century eyeglasses were invented, and here, in 1369 that mirrors began to be produced. It was also here, in 1450, that Angelo Barovier invented crystal. Throughout the Renaissance, glass was a rare commodity. It was only in 1827 that glass began to be produced on an industrial level. At that point, blown glass or glass produced by lampworking became a highly prized material used for aesthetic purposes, and achieved the height of its splendor during the Art Nouveau period. Artists including Lalique, Dammouse or Tiffany sought out the glass blowers of Murano to produce their coveted objects. During the midtwentieth century, real masters of the art including Signoretto, Ballarin, Zanetti and Vidal began to emerge in Murano. Their works are highly coveted objects, true collectors' items that are often displayed at museums. While strolling through the streets of Murano, you’ll be spoilt for choice. If you want to make a purchase, bear several criteria in mind. Crafting authentic Murano glass is no easy task and isn’t cheap. Large objects require hours of work, so don’t expect to take you custom-made lamp

FONDAMENTA

Venice and glass: a strong, enduring partnership that has lasted for centuries. It’s natural to mention glass when talking about Venice. It’s the same as associating the city with the Lagoon, its colours and the plays of light that have served as inspiration for the most iconic creations by local master glass blowers.

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ADVERTORIAL

VETRERIA DUCALE Located in the heart of Murano, an island famed throughout the world, Vetreria Ducale offers a wide selection of glass works created by the best 20th century masters as well as premium-quality contemporary objet d’art. Lighting, mirrors, sculptures, tableware and custommade items to suit individual styles and requirements. In addition to restorations, Vetreria Ducale also reproduces individual parts of antique objects. Worldwide delivery. Guided multi-lingual tours to the furnaces with glassmaking demonstrations.

Fondamenta Navagero, 76 MURANO Tel: +39 041 739922 | +39 041 5275284 fax +39 041 5276049 info@ducalemurano.com www.ducalemurano.com

VETRERIA ESTEVAN ROSSETTO 1950 Vetreria Estevan Rossetto 1950 offers a wide range of glass works and distinctive product lines. Created ad hoc, they blend to perfection with both modern and classic design elements. Chandeliers, mirrors and tableware: exclusive pieces skillfully handcrafted by master glass blowers from Murano, each item is made to order and customized according to individual tastes or designs. A team of expert multilingual staff is available to assist customers in their search for the perfect object and guided tours to the furnace can be booked on request.

Fondamenta Navagero, 50 MURANO Tel: +39 041 739329 fax +39 041 5274367 info@rossettomurano.com www.rossettomuranoglass.com More info: venice.whereitalia.com w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com  35


SHOPPING

VENETIANS

Discovering Venice’s art galleries

Galleria Contini

Is Venice really a place to buy objet d’art? Definitely! There are so many large and small 20th century and contemporary art galleries in the city that it’s almost impossible to list them all. Where® has selected a pick, renowned for their quality, tradition, or originality. By Romena Brugnerotto

Galleria Contini is a must-visit address for modern and contemporary art. Boasting more than 40 years in the business (it’s the oldest gallery in Venice), it exhibits works by important Italian and international artists including Mitoraj, Botero and Giuseppe Veneziano (San Marco 2288, www.continiarte.com). Other galleries, such as Luce Arte Moderna, are renowned for their display of works associated with the city (San Marco 1922, www.gallerialuce.com). Newcomers? Located in Venezia-Mestre, the D’E.M. Venice Art Gallery is a new, important exhibition space featuring a prestigious collection of 20th century masters including Vedova, Treccani, Licata, Guidi, Mirò and DalÍ. The gallery also hosts works by contemporary Venetian and international artists like Alexander Kanevsky whose imposing work titled ‘God’s Kingdom’ is one of the space’s major attractions. Ever-aware of the region’s cultural life and its artists, the gallery’s charismatic owner Elena Mangu offers a rich program of multi-cultural events and ambitious projects in the world of art dealerships (Venice-Mestre, via Dante Alighieri 8. www.demveniceartgallery.com).

36  W H E R E V E N I C E I J U LY 2018

Luce Arte Moderna. Riccardo Licata, Untitled.


PHOTO © COURTESY THE ARTIST AND VICTORIA MIRO, LONDON © CHRIS OFILI

SHOPPING

The new, 300 sq.m. space of Galerie Alberta Pane creates an artistic link between Paris and Venice. In keeping with the space’s history as a workshop, the gallery encourages artists to give life to ambitious projects such as large scale installations (Dorsoduro 2403/h. www.galeriealbertapane.com). Among the new openings, the Victoria Miro Gallery has arrived directly from London to take up residence in the former space of Venice’s historic “Il Capricorno” gallery. The London dealer has brought several of the important artists represented by her to the heart of the city (San Marco 1994, www.victoria-miro.com).

Victoria Miro Gallery. Chris Ofili, Poolside Magic 8.

Berengo Studio 1989. Aldo Mondino, Jongleur.

Located in the so-called Art Mile, in the sestiere of Dorsoduro which is teeming with museums and galleries, another must-visit venue is Galleria L’Occhio which, until 7 June, will host the works of Tobia Ravà, a Venetian artist renowned for researching the mystic currents of Judaism (San Marco 1994, www.gallerialocchio.net).

world’s best-known contemporary artists to experiment with this material and create unique pieces (Fondamenta dei Vetrai 109/a, www. berengostudio1989.com). Other go-to spaces in the city include Caterina Tognon who represents the most important artists of Studio Glass (San Marco 2158, www.caterinatognon.com). Collectors of wearable art should head to OhMyBlue. This unique venue sells contemporary artistic jewelry, bags, accessories, everyday items, glass items, ceramics and porcelain, all carefully selected from the best international offerings available on the market (San Polo 2865, www.ohmyblue. com).

Must-visit addresses for lovers of photography? The Ikona Photo Gallery housed in the picturesque spaces of the Ghetto Novo. Since 1979, thanks to its association with the Ikona International School of Photography, it has brought the best-known names in international photography to Venice (www.ikonavenezia.com). The ghetto is also home to Melori & Rosenberg, a historic gallery renowned for exhibiting the works of hyperrealist painter Luigi Rocca (Cannaregio 2919, www.melori-rosenberg.com). Fans of photography should also plan a visit to the Bugno Art Gallery that exhibits the works of well-known Italian photographers including Campigotto, Morucchio and Galimberti (San Marco 1996/d, www.bugnoartgallery.com). It goes without saying that Venice is one of the best places to purchase glass objects. Due to its in-depth knowledge of artistic glass, Berengo Studio 1989 has invited several of the

Bugno Art Gallery

D'E.M. ART GALLERY This vast, visually striking exhibition space was recently opened by its charismatic owner Elena Mangu. The gallery showcases works by 20th century masters and contemporary artists in suggestive settings characterized by the colour of its rooms and works. It is a constantlyevolving, multi-cultural, international gallery which also organizes collective and personal exhibitions. Off Map www.demveniceartgallery.com Via Dante Alighieri, 8 (Venezia-Mestre) T.: 041 981820 - Mob. +39 327 5803670

w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com  37


SHOPPING

VENETIANS

Top antiques

Antichità San Samuele

Tessitura Luigi Bevilacqua

Venice is infused with so many historical and artistic artefacts that the city’s passion for antiques is literally embedded within its soul. There are so many large and small workshops that it is almost impossible to list them all. Our city reporter Stefano Traine has selected the most important. Alessandro Zoppi A true son of Venice, Alessandro Zoppi, one of the most passionate and authoritative collectors and art merchants in the city, spent his youth travelling extensively abroad. In 1961, he moved to London where he stayed for a few years. The owner, for more than a decade, of the highly prestigious Antichità Cesana, today, Zoppi’s house-museum features a number of pieces from his impressive collections, with a particular emphasis on artistic glass objet d’art dating from the 16th through 20th centuries. PASSION TIP Visiting his house-museum, or even talking to Alessandro Zoppi, is like taking a marvellous journey back in time. By appointment only. T: 335 6657005. email: winglets13@gmail.com. Antichi Splendori Devoted to the ongoing search for objet d’art and antiques, the mission of this highly qualified antique dealer is to keep the interest in authentic masterpieces alive. Its San Lio-based store in Venice offers a careful selection of the city’s artistic treasures, with a particular focus on antique jewelry, Murano glass from the 11th to 20th centuries and paintings of Venetian landscapes. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-7pm. Castello, 5545 (Salizada S. Lio) T: 041 5239265. info@antichisplendori.com. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Antichità San Samuele An antiques dealer since the Seventies, Silvana Vianello is renowned for her research and expertise in the field. PASSION TIP San Samuele specializes in religious antiques, with a particular focus on sculptures dating from the 13th through 18th centuries. Open: Mon-Sat 10am-12.30pm/3.30pm7.30pm. San Marco, 3130 (Calle delle Botteghe). T: 041 5204900. Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop). Map E4 Antichità Zanutto Continuing a longstanding family tradition, in the 1970s, Vincenzo Zanutto chose San Marco to open his workshop specializing in antique paintings, with a particular focus on Venetian artists. Also offers evaluations and certified appraisals. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-12.30pm/4.30pm-7.30pm. San Marco, 2013 (Calle delle Veste, near the Teatro La Fenice). T: 041 5235359. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio or San Marco stop). Map E5

Alessandro Zoppi

Ca’ Nova Boasting over 40 years in the industry, Ca' Nova which means ‘new house’, has decorated several of Venice’s most elegant homes with its upholstery fabrics. Wallpaper, curtains, tablecloths and hand-woven sheets. Open Mon-Fri 9am12.30pm/3pm-7.30pm; Sat 9am-12.30pm. www. canovatessutitendaggi.com. San Marco, 4264/a (Campo San Luca). T: 041 5203834. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4 Franco Dell’Orto This well-known antique carpet gallery stocks a fabulous range of large Caucasian and Persian rugs, European tapestries and large-scale decorative pieces. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-12.30pm/3.30pm7.30pm; Sat 9.30am-12.30pm. www.francodellorto. com. San Marco, 2052/b (Calle delle Veste, near Teatro La Fenice). T: 041 5224736. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio or San Marco stop). Map E5

Franco Dell'Orto

38  W H E R E V E N I C E I J U LY 2018


SHOPPING

Le Zoie Michele Dal Bon’s atelier is infused with personality. PASSION TIP This eclectic shop showcase rare antique watches and jewelry but also specializes in collections that are unlikely to be found elsewhere, including objects inspired by ancient ‘theriaca’, a medical concoction also known as Venice treacle. Open Tues-Sat 9.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. www.lezoie. com. San Polo, 1566 (Calle dei Boteri) T: 041 2758694. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3

Venezia, Le Stampe Turio

Libreria Antiquaria Linea d’Acqua Antique books and priceless prints focusing primarily on preservation and authentic bookbinding methods. PASSION TIP Specializes in 18th century illustrated books, maps and views of Venice and engravings by 18th century Venetian masters. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-12.30pm/3.30pm-7pm; Sat 10.30am12.30pm. www.lineadacqua.it. San Marco 3717/d (Calle della Mandola). T: 041 5224030. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4 Studio Arga The owner of Studio Arga, Gabriella Tallon’s expertise in Oriental and Asian antiques makes this gallery a must-visit reference point. Open by appointment. www.argainc.com. San Marco 3659/a (Calle della Verona corner of Rio Terà dei Assassini). T: 041 2411124. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto or San Samuele stop) and line 2 (San Marco stop). Map E4

Venetia Studium

Antichità Zanutto

Tessitura Luigi Bevilacqua Artisanal weavers specializing in the production of exquisite, decorative fabrics for furnishings and curtains. PASSION TIP A unique place! Since 1875, the company has practiced the art of weaving on original looms that once belonged to the Venetian School of Silk. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-4pm (Sat-Sun by appointment). www.luigi-bevilacqua.com. Santa Croce 1320. T: 041 721566. Vaporetto line 1 (Riva de Biasio stop). Map D3 Venetia Studium The Lando family’s mission is to create and sell “modern object that speak an ancient language”. Venetia Studium not only stocks a wide range of Fortuny® lamps but also splendid silk pillows, fabrics, handbags and other accessories inspired by the ambiences loved by Marià Fortuny. Open daily 10am-7pm. www.venetiastudium.com San Marco, 2425. T: 041 5236953. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto or Santa Maria del Giglio stop). Map E5

Ca' Nova

Venezia, Le Stampe Turio At this small, refined showroom, Camilla Nicolai continues a family tradition established at the end of the 19th century by her great grandfather Osvaldo Böhm. Stocks a wide selection of frames, antiques and handcrafted Venetian objet d’art. PASSION TIP Specializes in antique decorative prints. Open 10.30am-1pm/3.30pm-7pm. www.venezialestampe.it. San Marco, 4606 (Calle Teatro Goldoni). T: 041 5234318. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4

Antichi Splendori

w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com  39


STROLLING THROUGH BURANO

VENETIANS

In addition to Murano and Torcello, this island on the Venetian Lagoon should not be missed. Loved (and widely photographed) by tourists, it is famous for its colourful houses, butter biscuits and above all, its handcrafted lace. BY STEFANO TRAINE

With a population of only three thousand inhabitants, the island’s row of houses, whose facades boast all the colours of the rainbow, make it one of the most picturesque places on earth! However, the origin of this tradition of painting the houses in bright colours was not only for aesthetic reasons. Legend has it that its fishermen, often confused by frequent banks of fog, devised a chromatic code that would help them identify their own landing piers more easily. . The island is also the capital of handmade lace, a craft kept alive for centuries by the wives of fishermen waiting for their husbands to return from sea. The work is extremely exacting, with each woman

specializing in a single stitch. Groups of women work diligently for days to produce items, whether large or small, of matchless beauty: trims for dresses, accessories, tablecloths, gloves, umbrellas and masks, all made from this delicate, white lace, crafted with a painstaking attention to detail that has lasted for centuries. While on the island, make sure to visit the Museum of LaceMaking (Piazza Galuppi, 187). Butter biscuits known as Buranelli are famous on the island and you'll be offered them wherever you go. However, this is not the only specialty that you’ll find. The island has a long-standing gastronomic tradition linked, above all, to fresh fish.

TRATTORIA DA ROMANO Run by the Barbaro family for four generations, this picturesque eatery has retained all of its timeless appeal. Recognized for more than fifty years as one of the few prestigious art restaurants in Venice, Romano manages the trattoria with his wife, Siora Gigia. Standouts include ancient Burano specialties, and the chef’s signature mixed grill cooked over wood. www.daromano.it Via Galuppi, 221. T: 041 730030. 40  W H E R E V E N I C E I J U LY 2018

HOW TO REACH BURANO Vaporetto line number 12 runs from the Venice-Fondamente Nove stop to Burano (1 hour). If you’re not in a hurry, the Venetians recommend taking line 14 from San Zaccaria (Pietà stop). Take a look at the venue where the Film Festival is held, and admire the MOSE flood barrier, the huge hydraulic engineering project designed to protect the lagoon.


LACES AND HANDICRAFT OF ART www.laceinvenice.com Via Galuppi, 287-376. T: 041 730009

More info: venice.whereitalia.com


DINING

Terrazza Danieli Restaurant

Your privileged point of view The most sought-after Sunday brunch in the city is served at the Ristorante Terrazza Danieli, which offers a front-row view and a special menu for the famous Feast of the Redeemer. By Elena Binda

T

his is the most captivating terrace in the city, and has been frequented by everyone who’s anyone, including Peggy Guggenheim, Eugenio Montale, Steven Spielberg and Harrison Ford. It’s the Terrazza Danieli, the restaurant of the Hotel Danieli, the lagoon’s most iconic five-star hotel, situated on the Riva degli Schiavoni, just steps from St. Mark’s Square. On Sundays in summer, from 12.30pm to 3pm, the restaurant’s ‘Venice by Brunch’ offers a fabulous selection of international breakfast classics, platters of Italian cold charcuterie and cheeses, typical Venetian hors d’œuvres, fresh vegetables from the nearby Rialto Market and a kaleidoscope of desserts from every corner of the Bel Paese. In addition to the above, this oneof-a-kind brunch comes with live cooking demonstrations from a legendary chef who 42  W H E R E V E N I C E I J U LY 2018

prepares a selection of tantalizing traditional hot dishes, including tagliatelle, grilled seabass and pork shank. If you want to enjoy an unforgettable experience book a table on the evening of 14 July, the Feast of the Redeemer that has been celebrated in Venice for centuries with a magnificent display of fireworks reflected in the water. When you watch this spectacular display from the terrace, while enjoying a fantastic six-course menu designed specifically for the event, you’re in for an unforgettable experience (see pages 6-7). >> Ristorante Terrazza Danieli Riva degli Schiavoni, 4196. T: 041 5226480. On Sundays, from 8 April to 28 October: ‘Venice by Brunch’ www.terrazzadanieli.com


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT VENICE.WHEREITALIA.COM

TASTING EXPERIENCE Enoteca Al Volto Excellent wine accompanied by traditional ‘cicchetti’ and Venetian fish specialties, Enoteca Al Volto invites diners into its warm, welcoming atmosphere. €. Open daily 11.30am-3pm and 6pm-10pm. San Marco, 4081 (Calle Cavalli). T: 041 5228945. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Zaccari stop). Map E4

L’Aciugheta Its fame and fortune stems from a soft, 7 cm long “paninello” (literally, “tiny sandwich”), stuffed with butter and two “aciughete” (skinless anchovies in oil). Other must-trys include its meatballs, croutons, stuffed chili peppers and freshly baked ‘pizzette’ topped with anchovies. €. Castello, 4357 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5224292. Vaporetto line 1, or 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Osteria alla Rivetta One of Venice best-known, most traditional “cicheteria” (but also a trattoria for lunch and dinner), it is a go-to address for wine tastings. Open daily 11am-10.30pm. €. Castello, 4625. T: 041 5287302. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4

TRADITIONAL ITALIAN CUISINE

liver, ‘granseola’, polenta with shrimp, a mixed fish fry with artichokes and seafood risotto. The restaurant offers a gluten free menu especially designed for coeliacs. Closed on Thursday. €€€. www.algiardinetto.it. Castello, 4928 (Salizada Zorzi). T: 041 5285332. Vaporetto line 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4

Sissi. A favourite haunt of artists, its charm and Venetian flavour have remained unaltered since it first opened in 1894. Standouts include its raw fish dishes and stewed cod fish with polenta. €€€. www. anticacarbonera.it. San Marco (Calle Bembo). T: 041 5225479. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4

Al Mercà

A typical trattoria, in business for over a century, it has a friendly, convivial atmosphere. This is a go-to address for foodies and connoisseurs of fine dining. Its excellent menu, enhanced by the freshest, top quality ingredients is accompanied by an astute selection of wines. Closed on Sundays and Mondays. €€€. www.antichecarampane.com. San Polo, 1911. T: 041 5240165. Vaporetto line 1 (RialtoMercato stop). Map E3

Highly sought-after, typical Venetian cuisine. Boasting an informal atmosphere, it is the perfect spot to relax with a soothing cocktail after a long day of sightseeing. €€€. Lido - Via E. Dandolo, 17. T: 041 2431663. Vaporetto 1, 2, 5.1, 5.2 (Lido stop). Map E3

Alla Madonna Established in 1954 and set in one of Venice’s most picturesque corners, the Rado family has run Alla Madonna since its inception. Its welcoming ambience, characterized by an ancient vineyard, provides the perfect backdrop for the typical regional cuisine served here. €€€. www. ristoranteallamadonna.com. San Polo, 594 (Calle della Madonna). T: 041 5223824. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E4

Antica Carbonera Homemade pasta, fresh fish and unusual decor: its interiors resemble those of the Miramar yacht that belonged to Franz Joseph II and Princess

Antiche Carampane

Antico Martini Located next to the La Fenice theatre, with its elegant dining rooms, welcoming atmosphere and attentive staff, the Antico Martini serves some of the best seafood in town. €€€. www.anticomartini. com. Campo Teatro Fenice 2007. T: 041 5224121. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).Map E5

Antico Pignolo The hand of owner Eligio Paties, is apparent in its beautifully laid tables and impeccable service. The traditional Venetian menu is accompanied by a

A Beccafico Arte It offers several dining spaces and a small inner courtyard. Its typical Venetian ambience, is low-key, contemporary and elegant, blending to perfection with its Sicilian-style cuisine. €€€. Closed on Tuesdays. www.abeccaficoarte.com. Cannaregio, 2289/C. T: 041 2759220. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E5

A la Vecia Cavana Set within the picturesque environment of an old restructured cavàna (a typical sloped building used to house boats), this restaurant serves delicious traditional Venetian and Italian cuisine. €€€. www. marsillifamiglia.it. Cannaregio, 4624 (Rio Terà SS. Apostoli). T: 041 5287106. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map F3

Acqua Pazza Set against the magical backdrop of Campo Sant’Angelo, it offers a great ‘al fresco’ dining experience under the stars. This small corner of Amalfi in Venice serves an array of tantalizing dishes. €€€. www.veniceacquapazza.com. San Marco, 3808. T: 041 2770688. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).Map E4

Al Colombo A meeting point since 1986 for an international clientele, its menu maintains all the hallmark features of traditional Venetian cuisine. In summer, guests can dine outside under the romantic light of Venice’s street lamps. €€€. www.alcolombo.com. San Marco, 4619. T: 041 5222627. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3

Al Giardinetto da Severino Set against the magnificent backdrop of the 15th century Palazzo Zorzi, the restaurant is listed as an ‘historical establishment of Venice’ and its dining room still features a vaulted ceiling and a frescoed firedplace. Its menu offers the best of traditional Venetian cuisine: baccalà, Venetian-style

L’Alcova’s magical atmosphere Diners can enjoy traditional Venetian cuisine at the L’Alcova Restaurant with its splendid view overlooking the Grand Canal. The menu is accompanied by an extensive wine list featuring vintages from various Italian regions. The young and talented chef Damiano Bassano combines traditional Italian flavours with unique touches. Its exquisite interiors look onto Venice’s scenic waterfront and the Rialto Market. This magical location has inspired the chef who sources fresh ingredients from land and sea, offering diners dishes that are infused with his talented creativity. The ‘L’Incontro’ Bar is an ideal place to sample aperitivi and pre-and post-prandial drinks. Don’t miss the ‘Rooftop terrace’, a perfect location for cocktails and signature drinks at aperitivo time. This exclusive bar offers a variety of drinks, including traditional Spritzes, Bellinis and fruit cocktails (sourced from the nearby Rialto Market), an innovative idea based on the chef’s philosophy of natural, healthy cuisine. L’Alcova Restaurant c/o Ca’ Sagredo. Cannaregio 4198/99 (Campo Santa Sofia). T: 041 2413111. www.casagredohotel.com

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DINING

Top hotel restaurants Tradition, innovation and creativity: Where® highlights some culinary destinations to whet your appetite at several top hotels in Venice. By Stefania Vida

Terrazza Danieli Acquerello c/o San Clemente Palace Kempinski Venice. Isola di San Clemente, 1. T: 041 4750111. www.kempinski.com The gourmet cuisine of Acquerello restaurant enhances the flavours of Italian and Venetian tradition with creative and surprising combinations of Executive Chef Giorgio Schifferegger. PASSION TIP Its view is as breathtaking as its food: situated next to the XIIcentury church of San Clemente, the restaurant, boasting a large terrace, is located next to one of the island’s private landing stages. Open for dinner: 6.30 pm-10.30 pm. Hotel’s complimentary boat from piazza San Marco. Off Map

Aromi c/o Hilton Molino Stucky. Giudecca, 810. T: 041 2723311. www.molinostuckyhilton.it Here you can taste authentic Mediterranean cuisine, offering a choice of pasta, meat and seafood dishes, created using only the freshest ingredients based on traditional recipes. Recognized by well-known international gastronomic association “Chaine des Rotisseurs”, Aromi is the ideal spot to celebrate a special occasion. Open on a seasonal basis, the Aromi restaurant offers guests a summer terrace with a fabulous view over Venice and the Giudecca Canal. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Palanca stop). Map C6

Aman Venice Restaurant c/o Hotel Aman Venice. Palazzo Papadopoli. San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo). T: 041 2707333. www.aman.com The exclusive restaurant offers a delightfully unique menu, thanks to several specialties created by starred Milanese chef Davide Oldani, who infuses his culinary offerings with all the vibrancy of his ‘pop cuisine’. PASSION TIP Standouts, for those who haven’t yet tasted them, include his timeless ‘cipolla caramellata’ (‘caramelized onions’) and ‘Zafferano e riso’ (Saffron and rice’). Vaporetto line 1 (San Silvestro stop). Map E4

Canova c/o Baglioni Hotel Luna. San Marco, 1243. T: 041 5289840. www.baglionihotels.com Winner of the Fogher d’Oro and Gambero Rosso awards, the Canova boasts an intimate, elegant atmosphere. Chef Daniele Zennaro offers menus and tastings featuring the best of traditional Venetian cuisine. All dishes are made using only the freshest, high-quality ingredients, rounded off by a wine list offering a wide selection of national and international labels. Vaporetto line 1 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map F5

Antinoo’s c/o Centurion Palace Venezia. Dorsoduro, 173. T: 041 34281. www.sinahotels.com Fronting the Grand Canal, this is the ideal place for a romantic dinner, boasting a decidedly designer-style décor and a soft, evocative colour scheme. In addition to the à la carte menu you can also choose from a selection of typical gourmet Venetian dishes, the perfect way to soak up the flavours and atmospheres of the lagoon city. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map E5

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Club del Doge c/o The Gritti Palace. Campo Santa Maria del Giglio. T: 041 794611. www.clubdeldoge.com The restaurant welcomes guests for a romantic dinner or lunch overlooking the Grand Canal, where a welcoming ambience and authentic upscale cuisine make each culinary experience a truly special one. From April to October (weather permitting), guests can dine on its stunning panoramic terrace. Dining daytime (informal) 12pm-6pm. Dinner daily (formal) 7pm- 10pm. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio stop). Map E5

De Pisis c/o Hotel Bauer Palazzo. San Marco, 1413/d. T: 041 5207022. www.bauervenezia.com For a romantic canal side dinner, set against the backdrop of the historic Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute. Those in search of a more intimate experience can opt to dine in its elegant dining room, furnished with classic period pieces, reminiscent of the ancient pomp and splendour of the Serenissima. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 Do Leoni c/o Hotel Londra Palace. Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni). T: 041 5200533. www.londrapalace.com The Do Leoni restaurant, one of the temples of Venetian cuisine, pays homage to the symbols of Britain and of Venice. Chef Loris Indri combines the traditions of classic Venetian fare with more creative dishes, to titillate the palates of even the most discerning diners. The chef’s culinary art is further enhanced by its two atmospheric dining spaces: an indoor dining room whose decor includes artistic crystal and original paintings and its summer Veranda on the Riva degli Schiavoni. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4 Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco. T: 041 8521300 www.jwvenice.com Aptly named ‘Dopolavoro’, which means after work. The renowned name of Giancarlo Perbellini is behind this new restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private island - the Isola delle Rose, right out in the Venetian lagoon. After a day of business meetings or exploring Venice, enjoy delicious gourmet recipes with an individual flavour and skilful light touch - the true mark of a great chef. Off Map Glam c/o Palazzo Venart Santa Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron). T: 041 5233784. www.palazzovenart.com Headed by twice-Michelin starred chef Enrico Bartolini and located in a historic palazzo on the Grand Canal it offers an interpretation of contemporary Italian cuisine. Bartolini focuses on his experience and research-based use of locally-sourced Venetian ingredients and re-imagined with an innovative twist. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Stae stop). Map E3


DINING

Grand Canal c/o Hotel Monaco & Grand Canal San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. www.hotelmonaco.it A meeting place for gurus of the world of economy and finance, journalists and artists, actors and writers, it looks out directly over the Grand Canal. Both lively and intimate, its terrace combines the pleasures of the palate with an evocative view over the lagoon. Here you can enjoy the typical dishes of Venetian tradition, from the delicacies of the sea to the vegetables, expressed with maximum taste and harmony. Map F5 Il Giardino Segreto c/o Grand Hotel dei Dogi. Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto, 3500 (Calle Larga Piave). T: 041 2208110. www.dahotels.com Venice meeting point for lovers of fine cuisine. In an elegant and intimate atmosphere, you can enjoy international specialties and delicacies of the Italian cuisine, created by highly skilled chefs and accompanied by a wide selection of wines and champagnes. In the springtime and summer the blooming garden offers you a unique view for your lunch or for your very romantic dinner. Vaporetto line 4.2 or 5.2 (Orto stop). Map E1

L’Alcova c/o Ca’ Sagredo Hotel. Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99. T: 041 2413111. www.casagredohotel.com Boasting a magnificent panoramic terrace over the Grand Canal, L’Alcova is ‘the’ temple of traditional Venetian cuisine for real connoisseurs. PASSION TIP Its dining room faces directly over the Canal, in front of the historic Rialto Market, from which the restaurant sources the ingredients for its menus, accompanied by an astute selection of wines from various regions of Italy. Open: lunch 12pm2.30pm, dinner 7pm-10pm. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E3 La Caravella c/o Hotel Saturnia Calle Larga XXII Marzo, 2399. T: 041 5208901. www.restaurantlacaravella.com Opened in 1963, it completes the services offered by the Hotel Saturnia with a touch of culinary excellence thanks to its fabulous Venetian cuisine updated with a contemporary, gourmet twist. Its evocative, romantic ambience conjures up the colours and furnishings of an ancient Venetian vessel. In summer, guests can dine ‘al fresco’ in its picturesque, internal Venetian courtyard. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map E5

La Cusina c/o The Westin Europa & Regina San Marco 2159. T: 041 2400001. www.lacusina.it For a regenerating lunch break or for a romantic dinner, La Cusina is the ideal place to enjoy a combination of taste and relaxation. Choose a table overlooking the Grand Canal to enjoy a panoramic view of the city’s historic architecture, while savouring the restaurant’s seasonal dishes which enhance the rich local flavours of Venice and the islands of the lagoon. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5 Le Maschere c/o Starhotels Splendid Venice. San Marco Mercerie, 760. T: 041 5200755. www.starhotels.com Loved and patronized by Venetian locals, it is set against the backdrop of a luminous ‘Campiello’, a typical Venetian courtyard. Here you can sample authentic Venetian cuisine, featuring both meat and fish-based dishes. A truly gourmet experience, guaranteed by its partnership with Eataly, makes Le Maschere one of the most unique and original restaurants in Venice. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4 Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801. www.belmond.com Experience Venice’s top taste sensation at this enchanting Michelin-starred restaurant. Oro reflects the romantic spirit of Venice: take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant takes its name, and try the specialties inspired by Italian tradition. Vaporetto line 4.1 (Zitelle stop). Map F6

Pisanino

Do Leoni

Pisanino c/o Palazzetto Pisani San Marco, 2814. T: 041 5232550. www.palazzettopisani.com Located in the noble floor of Palazzetto Pisani, facing the Grand Canal, here you can savor refined Italian and gourmet food in a typically Venetian ambient. Particular events are often organized in this space. Moreover, try out the Balcony experience, a romantic and unique experience just for two persons on a private balcony facing the Grand Canal, simply enjoy an aperitivo in Venetian style, an exclusive dinner or even a continental breakfast. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Accademia stop). Map E5 Terrazza Danieli c/o Hotel Danieli Riva degli Schiavoni, 4196. T: 041 5226480. www.terrazzadanieli.com A trip to discover traditional flavours. Executive Chef Dario Parascandolo will treat you to an exclusive gourmet experience, with a menu featuring locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. Don’t miss the breathtaking view over the lagoon. Vaporetto line 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

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DINING

Michelin-starred restaurants

Oro

Quadri

Met

Are you in search of a real Venetian tasting experience? Where® brings you a round-up of Michelin-starred restaurants for true connoisseurs of taste! By Stefania Vida Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco T: 041 8521300 www.jwvenice.com Aptly named ‘Dopolavoro’, which means after work. The renowned name of Giancarlo Perbellini is behind this new restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private island - the Isola delle Rose, right out in the Venetian lagoon. After a day of business meetings or exploring Venice, enjoy delicious gourmet recipes with an individual flavour and skilful light touch - the true mark of a great chef. Off Map Glam c/o Palazzo Venart. Santa Croce, 1961. T: 041 5235676 www.palazzovenart.com/en/restaurant-bar Set within a secluded corner of Venice and located in a prime position overlooking the Grand Canal,

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the Glam is situated inside Palazzo Venart. Just one year after it opened, it was awarded its first Michelin star in November 2017. The brainchild behind its menu is Enrico Bartolini, Italy’s youngest chef. Helmed by resident chef Donato Ascani, the restaurant serves traditional Venetian dishes upgraded with a futuristic twist and enriched with contemporary pairings that intensify the fabulous flavours of the Lagoon. Glam can host up to 40 guests indoors or al fresco. Map E3 Il Ridotto Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo, 4509. T: 041 5208280 www.ilridotto.com Located just steps from San Marco, Il Ridotto, 'reduced' in Italian, refers to the size of this tiny, gracious restaurant. The innovative menu employing traditional elements is revised daily, with the offerings tending toward lighter, but wonderfully tasty versions of classic dishes. A particular characteristic? It only has 9 tables. Map F4

Met Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149. T: 041 5240034 www.hotelmetropole.com Located inside the Metropole hotel, the Met Restaurant is a pioneer of a new concept targeted at promoting the Italian region. Its menu features recipes based on traditional Italian gastronomy served in two versions: either classical or upgraded with a creative twist, served in unusual but never excessive combinations. Its carefully prepared dishes are full of flavour and presented in a bright, colourful way. Map G4 Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani Giudecca, 10 T: 041 240801 www.belmond.com A jewel in the crown of Belmond Hotel Cipriani, experience Venice’s top taste sensation at this enchanting Michelin-starred restaurant. Oro reflects the romantic spirit of Venice: take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant draws its name, and try the specialities inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6


Osteria da Fiore San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308 www.dafiore.net An Osteria only by name because this is actually an elegant, starred restaurant. Its cuisine ranges from the most authentic traditional flavours interpreted in a modern-day key (meaning that offerings tend to be lighter) to more unusual dishes invented by the chef, intended to be as close to nature as possible thanks to a great selection of highly sought-after seasonal ingredients. Ask for a wine recommendation from its excellent wine list which also features several international labels. Map E3 Quadri Piazza San Marco, 121. T: 041 5222105 www.alajmo.it A real institution of Venetian taste, starting from its decor. The restaurant – with the Quadrino and Grancaffè Quadri on the ground floor – has recently reopened after a major restoration by Philippe Stark: triumph of stucco, Murano glass and precious fabrics housed in one of the most photographed ‘palazzi’ in the city. Its menu features intriguing, creative dishes that are beautifully presented... without forgetting its spectacular view over piazza San Marco. Map F4

Glam

Dopolavoro

Venissa Fondamenta S. Caterina, 3 (Mazzorbo) T: 041 5272281 www.venissa.it On the one hand its vegetable gardens and vineyards, and, on the other, its cuisine featuring an intoxicating meld of locally sourced ingredients. Its bucolic surroundings serve as the ideal backdrop to its authentic, typically Venetian cuisine lovingly prepared by its four chefs who only use fresh, seasonal ingredients. Off Map

Venissa

Il Ridotto

Osteria da Fiore

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DINING

Kosher in Venice If you are already familiar with Jewish dietary laws, or want to try a new ‘kosher’ gastronomic experience, here are some great addresses that will not disappoint! By Stefania Vida

well-stocked cellar boasting more than 900 labels from all over the world. €€€. www.anticopignolo. com. San Marco, 451 (Calle degli Specchieri). T: 041 5228123. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Da Fiore A renowned Venetian restaurant that offers topnotch cuisine in a sophisticated, elegant setting. Thirty-five years ago, Mara and Maurizio Martin transformed an old osteria into one of the city’s most famous restaurants. Impeccable service and superlative Venetian dishes composed of carefully selected seasonal ingredients have made Da Fiore a must-visit destination. Closed on Mondays. €€€. www.dafiore.net. San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3

Gran Canal Here you can taste the typical specialties of Venetian tradition, featuring the purest expression of taste and harmony. The restaurant’s main focus is on seafood and vegetables. Don’t miss a dinner on its evocative terrace: the restaurant faces directly onto the Grand Canal offering diners an excellent opportunity to combine the pleasures of the palate with a stunning view over Venice’s lagoon. Open: lunch 12.30pm-2.30pm, dinner 7.30pm-11.30pm €€€. www.hotelmonaco.it. c/o Hotel Monaco&Gran Canal. San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Map F5

Harry’s Bar KOSHER RESTAURANT GHIMEL GARDEN The restaurant offers kosher specialties and typical fish-based dishes. Halav. Lemehadrin. The menu is accompanied by a great selection of strictly kosher wines. Open daily from 9.30am to 11pm. Serves Shabbat dinners on Friday evenings and at lunch on Saturdays strictly subject to reservation. ghimelgarden.com. Cannaregio, 2873/c (Campo del Ghetto Nuovo). T: 041 8226131. KOSHER HOUSE GIARDINO DEI MELOGRANI Located just a 10-minute walk from the Santa Lucia Railway Station, this is the only kosher residence in Venice. Nestling in the heart of Venice’s Ghetto, it is equipped with all the necessary accoutrements for the strict observance of Kasheruth and Halacha. www.pardesrimonim.net. Cannaregio, 2873. T: 041 8226131. CAFFETTERIA DEL MUSEO EBRAICO DI VENEZIA Indulge in a flavoursome break at the cafè of Venice’s famous Jewish Museum. Situated in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo, the venue is set between two of Venice’s oldest synagogues. Halav. Cannaregio, 2902 (Campo del Ghetto Nuovo). T: 340 1046858.

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Founded in the 1930s, this legendary bar is renowned for its Bellini cocktails (originally invented here) and for being the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of almost every famous name to visit Venice. Today, It is still a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice, a perfect opportunity to step back in time and savour its slightly retro and incredibly fascinating atmosphere. www. harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco, 1323 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto 1 (Rialto stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

Il Nuovo Galeon Located on via Garibaldi, near the Giardini della Biennale and just behind the Arsenal, this restaurant is mainly frequented by Venetians. A typical, family-run restaurant with an outdoor terrace (summer), its attractive interior is characterized by typical nautical décor, including the hull of a ‘bragozzo’, a typical fishing boat built by Crea, the famous Venetian rowing champion. €€€. www.ilnuovogaleon.com. Castello, 1308, T: 041 5204656. Vaporetto 5.1 or 5.2 (Giardini stop). Map H5

La Calcina Take a seat at its welcoming indoor dining room, or on the magnificent panoramic terrace overlooking the Giudecca Canal. At La Calcina you can savour traditional Venetian and Mediterranean dishes paired with wines selected from amongst the best Italian labels. Vegetarian meals are also served. €€€. www.lacalcina.com. c/o Hotel La Calcina. Dorsoduro, 780 (Zattere). T: 041 5206466. Vaporetto line 2 or 5.1 (Zattere stop). Map E6

La Conca d’Oro Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, La Conca d’Oro was established by Sicilian brothers Giuseppe and Giovanni Costa, the founders of the first pizzeria in Northern Italy. Since that time,

this Venetian institution has been turning out some of the best pizza in town. € (pizzeria) - €€€ (restaurant). www.concadorovenice.com. Castello, 4338 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5229293. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 , 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

La Porta d’Acqua Set just steps from the Rialto Bridge, the restaurant is housed in a 15th century building and decorated with original frescoes dating back to 1700. Its cuisine conjures up the aroma of authentic Neapolitan cuisine, thanks to ingredients sourced exclusively from Campani. €€€. www. laportadacqua.it. San Polo, 1022/b (Rio Terà San Silvestro). T: 041 2412124. Vaporetto 1 (San Silvestro stop). Map E4

Lineadombra Perched on the last bridge of the most beautiful promenade in Venice, le Zattere, this is the perfect spot for a romantic dinner where you can enjoy all the typical flavours of the Venetian lagoon. €€€. www.ristorantelineadombra.com. Dorsoduro, 19. T: 041 2411881. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Zattere stop) or 1 (Salute stop). Map E5

Locanda Cipriani For those who want to be close to Venice, yet feel worlds away, the Locanda Cipriani is a superb, romantic hideaway. Featuring a simple yet evocative atmosphere, it is popular among knowledgeable gourmets as a fantastic restaurant. A farmhouse from the exterior, it has been renovated with great charm, exuding an understated elegance with beautiful country antiques and fresh flowers. €€€. www. locandacipriani.com. Piazza Santa Fosca 29 (Torcello island). T: 041 730150. Vaporetto line 12 from Fondamente Nove direction Burano, then take the 9 line). Off Map

Taverna al Remer Located near to the Rialto Bridge, this romantic ‘taverna’ is distinguished by its open-brick decor, which lends it an intimate, informal touch. Although the menu features simple, traditional dishes, it often surprises diners with unusual pairings. Closed on Wednesdays. €€€. www. alremer.it. Cannaregio, 5701. T. 041 5228789. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map F3

Trattoria Do Forni The owner Eligio Paties has managed to make this restaurant a sought-after destination, distinguished by its wide assortment of Venetian fare, thanks to the quality of the dishes and a genuine sense of typically Venetian hospitality. The dining spaces will remind you of the carriages of the legendary “Orient Express” and pay tribute to the history of Venice. €€€. www.doforni.it. San Marco, 468 (Calle dei Specchieri). T: 041 5232148. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4

Wildner Opened by the Fullin family in 1960, it is patronized by locals and tourists alike. Its tranquil, relaxed atmosphere is further enhanced by a spectacular view over the Basin of St. Mark’s. Its menu is mainly fish-based and serves classic Venetian specialties including ‘Baccalà Mantecato’ and ‘Sarde in Saor’. Closed on Tuesdays. €€€. c/o Pensione Wildner. Castello, 4161. T: 041 5227463. Vaporetto line 4.1 or 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4


Venetian cuisine, tradition and creativity

At Bistrò da Cici, a venue located amidst the ‘calli’ surrounding the Peggy Guggenheim Collection and the Basilica della Salute, the culinary experience of la Serenissima lives on thanks to a menu that focuses on traditional dishes

Bistrò da Cici c/o Hotel Salute Palace Dorsoduro 222/a. T: 041 5235404 www.salutepalace.com

upgraded with a traditional twist, seasonal products and local specialties. Formerly a meeting place for Venice’s cultural elite in the ‘60s and a reference point for artists collaborating with Peggy Guggenheim, the restaurant’s brigade is helmed by chef Stefano Bison, a Venetian with a cosmopolitan calling. After working at several of Europe’s most prestigious restaurants, Stefano decided to return to the cuisine (and region) of his origin. “Tradition is an essential part of my philosophy. Our mothers and grandmothers always cooked traditional dishes, using seasonal ingredients. My aim is to do exactly the same thing”, explains Bison. “I manage to combine tradition with innovation by using fresh, high-quality ingredients. Rather than altering them, I try to enhance them by using modern culinary techniques and tools.”

Stefano Bison, a 37 year-old native of Treviso, started his career at some of Europe’s most prestigious starred restaurants and hotels. When asked to choose a signature dish that best represents his style of cooking, Bistrò da Cici’s Executive Chef said that he would choose a fish dish... from the lagoon naturally!

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EXHIBITION VIEW OF “MACHINES À PENSER” - FONDAZIONE PRADA, VENICE PHOTO MATTIA BALSAMINI - COURTESY FONDAZIONE PRADA

SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Fondazione Prada, a place to think This unique exhibition explores the relationship between space, isolation and the philosophical thought. It is hosted in a place that, in turn, has been reborn to life as a location of art. By Amal Angelotti

T

he name Prada has become legendary throughout the world for causing a revolution in the fashion industry, and for the past few years, it has also been inextricably linked to another important sphere – contemporary art. Established in 1993 by Miuccia Prada and Patrizio Bertelli, Fondazione Prada is an institution dedicated to contemporary art and culture. In addition to its first exhibition site in Milan, the Foundation opened its Venetian headquarters and exhibition space at Ca’ Corner della Regina, an 18th century palazzo overlooking the Grand Canal. Thanks to its breathtaking architecture and storied past, the palace has become a part of the Foundation, which is currently working on a meticulous restoration project of the building, divided into various stages, under the auspices of a Venetian bureau that protects architectural heritage. It is here, amidst stunning 50  W H E R E V E N I C E I J U LY 2018

symmetrical staircases, imposing ‘porteghi’, decorated with stuccoes and exquisite walnut doors, that Fondazione Prada has presented ‘Machines à penser’, the blockbuster exhibition curated by Dieter Roelstraete, scheduled to run until 25 November 2018. The exhibition focuses on three major philosophers of the 20th century, Adorno, Heidegger and Wittgenstein, and explores the correlation between conditions of exile, escape and retreat and the physical or mental places which favour reflection, thought and the intellectual process. This immersive journey deepens our understanding of these three philosophers and the relationship between philosophy, art and architecture through the works of artists like Anselm Kiefer, Alexander Kluge, Patrick Lakey, Goshka Macuga, Mark Manders, Iñigo Manglano-Ovalle, Digne Meller-Marcovicz, Jeremy Millar and many others.

>> Fondazione Prada, Santa Croce, 2215 (Ca’ Corner della Regina) fondazioneprada.org Miuccia Prada and Dieter Roelstraete


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT VENICE.WHEREITALIA.COM

ATTRACTIONS & MONUMENTS Basilica del Redentore

Peggy Guggenheim Collection

Based on a project by the famous architect Andrea Palladio, the Basilica was built in 1577 on the island of Giudecca. It contains works by Tintoretto, Veronese and other important Venetian artists. It was built to celebrate the deliverance from the Black Death, which killed one third of the population. To commemorate the end of the plague, a solemn festival is still held at the church on the third Sunday of July. www.chorusvenezia. org. Campo Redentore (Giudecca). T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 41 and 2 (Redentore stop). Map E6

Basilica di San Marco This is the most important Catholic church in the city, and one of the most important monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. The famous winged lion, a symbol of the city and of the ancient ‘Venetian Republic’ is depicted on its pediment. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. You might have to queue for a time to get inside, but your wait will be well worthwhile. Although admission is free, you will have to pay to see several specific sights. In order not to miss your visit, be sure to inform yourself about the opening hours, as they are often subject to change. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am4pm; Sun (and Public Holidays) 2pm-4pm. www. basilicasanmarco.it. San Marco, 328. T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

Campanile di San Marco (Bell Tower) This 98.6 metre bell tower is affectionately known to the Venetians as ‘el paron de casa’ (the master of the house) because it dominates the city, observing everything that lies below it. Resting lightly on the exquisite Loggetta del Sansovino, it has a particularly recognizable shape and a rich history. The original medieval bell tower was modified several times, and rebuilt entirely when it unexpectedly collapsed in 1902. It is worth going up to the tower, to enjoy a breathtaking view over the city. Although admission is not free, it is often included in joint tickets. Opening times are subject to change. T: 041 5225205. Vaporetto lines 1,2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

Canal Grande (Grand Canal) Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the main waterway of Venice and much more. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels, and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. For centuries, the Canal has witnessed lavish parties and workshop events, religious processions, capital executions, historical regattas and epidemics. Those visiting Venice should dedicate a few hours to a cruise on the Canal, not only for the pleasure of this experience, but because it offers several of the best panoramic views of Venetian palaces. It is is almost impossible to list all of them, but for more information you can visit the www. canalgrandevenezia.it website. For excursions and boat cruises visit www.canalgrande.it, or ask your concierge.

Located on the left-hand side of the Grand Canal, just beyond the Church of the Madonna della Salute, you will come across a building that seems strange and unfinished, but is also elegant and well-tended. The Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, formerly home to the prominent and powerful Venier family, was originally planned to become one of the most sumptuous buildings in Venice. Construction of the palazzo began in or around 1748, but was halted after only one floor was completed. Undeterred by its rather sketchy shape, and upon seeing the palazzo with its beautiful garden, eccentric American heiress Peggy Guggenheim, a lover of modern art, la dolce vita and men, fell in love with it. She purchased Palazzo Venier in 1948, and moved in with her collection of

PEGGY’S FIRST BIENNALE - In 1948, Peggy Guggenheim was invited to exhibit her already legendary art collection at the 24th Art Biennale in Venice. It was a landmark event and the first-ever showing of Peggy’s collection in Europe. This event brought the works of numerous international artists, almost unknown at that time, to the Lagoon city. 2018 marks the 70th anniversary of the exhibition of Peggy Guggenheim’s collection in the Greek Pavilion at the renowned Venice Biennale. The layout of the pavilion, designed by Carlo Scarpa, an eminent architect of the time, has been recreated today in the Project Rooms. “1948: Peggy Guggenheim’s Biennale” (25 May-25 November). www.guggenheim-venice.itt

contemporary art, subsequently opening both the palazzo and her extraordinary collection of artworks to the public. In 1980, after her death, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection was bequeathed to the Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation, which also manages the Solomon R. Guggenheim in New York and the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao. In 1985, Palazzo Venier dei Leoni was officially converted into a museum. Today, thanks to its 20th century collection of art, it is considered one of the most important museums in Europe. The collection includes masterpieces of Cubism, Futurism, European Abstractism, American Abstract Surrealism and Expressionism, as well as works by illustrious artists like Picasso, Pollock, Kandinsky, Miró, de Chirico and Dalí. It also hosts prestigious temporary exhibitions.

Peggy Guggenheim with Alexander Calder “Arc of Petals” at the Greek Pavilion, 24th Venice Biennale, 1948. © Fondazione Solomon R. Guggenheim, foto Archivio CameraphotoEpoche, donazione Cassa di Risparmio di Venezia, 2005..

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SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Chiesa and Scuola Grande di San Rocco

Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square)

A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures, including an impressive number of works by Tintoretto as well those by Tiepolo and Giorgione. Opening hours subject to change www. scuolagrandesanrocco.org. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Known throughout the world, this square is the heart of Venice and its most symbolic landmark. It consists of a central, trapezoid-shaped unit integrated with other areas. Measuring 170 metres in length, it faces directly onto the water and is surrounded by several magnificent stately buildings. Its incalculable scenic beauty makes it one of the most widelyphotographed places in the world. The best thing to do here is to look around and exult, but don’t forget that the square has a number of specific landmark sites, whose interiors can also be visited: the Basilica of San Marco (see listing), the Bell Tower (see listing), Palazzo Ducale (see Museums listings), the Clock Tower (see listing) and some 18th century cafés, the Florian and the Quadri, to mention the best-known... Vaporetto lines, 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

Ghetto di Venezia Although documentation chronicles the presence of a Jewish community in Venice from before the year 1000, it was only during the 6th century, due to political unrest in Europe and a significant increase in non-Christian immigrants that, for the first time, the Venetian Senate, issued a decree stating that the Jewish population should move to a specific part of the city, where they could be better ‘controlled’. Thus Jews were forced to move to this, then, remote northwestern corner of Venice, to an abandoned site of a 14th-century foundry (‘ghetto’ is old Venetian dialect for "foundry," a word that would soon be used throughout Europe and the world to depict an area where isolated minority groups lived. The Venetian Ghetto nevertheless became a thriving, vibrant district. In 1797, when Napoleon rolled into town, the ghetto was disbanded as an institution, and Jews were free to move elsewhere. Today it is still the center of Venice's ever-diminishing community of Jewish families. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1 (Ponte Guglie stop). Map D2

Palazzo Ca’ Vendramin Calergi (Casinò di Venezia) Overlooking the Grand Canal, this building houses the oldest casino in the world. An age-old destination, for aristocratic travelers from both East and West, Venice was the first city in the world to open a gaming house way back in 1683. Today its old-world ambience continues to play host to several of the world’s most classical games. The casino is open to everyone aged 18 and over and proper attire is required. www.casinovenezia.it. Cannaregio, 2040 (Calle Colombina). Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marcuola stop). Map E3

Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs) The Bridge of Sighs is a Baroque bridge that, by crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from which its name derives are not those of lovers, but those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. Open daily 8.30am- 7pm. www. palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 31024 (piazza San Marco). T:041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1,2, (San Marco stop). Map F4

Ponte di Rialto (Rialto Bridge) This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Witness to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it (shutterbugs permitting), but even more spectacular when seen from the water, perhaps aboard a gondola. Originally built during medieval times as a pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto Market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. Unfortunately, it is not accessible to everyone; between upward and downward slopes, it includes as many as 120 steps. San Polo, 30125 (access from Ruga dei Oresi or from Salizada Pio X). Vaporetto linea 1,2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

San Giorgio Maggiore Boasting a monastery and an adjoining museum

(see Museum listings), the church of San Giorgio Maggiore sits on the little island of San Giorgio Maggiore across from St. Mark's square. One of the masterpieces of Andrea Palladio, the church, and the entire complex, which holds a number of marvelous surprises including a maze, is worth visiting. This small island, that is a part of the panorama that can be enjoyed from St. Mark's square, is separated from the Giudecca by the lagoon island of La Grazia. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 5227827. Vaporetto line 2 (San Giorgio stop). Map G5

Santa Maria della Salute (Church of the Virgin Mary of Good Health) Generally referred to as “La Salute,” this crown jewel of 17th-century baroque architecture proudly stands at a commercially and aesthetically important point, almost directly opposite the Piazza San Marco, where the Grand Canal empties into the lagoon. Designed by Longhena, whose work was influenced by Palladio, it was constructed to honor the Virgin Mary for delivering Venice from the plague of 1630. On 21 November each year, a popular religious celebration, marking the official end of the Black Death, is held here. The church is also famous for its organ concerts. Open daily 9am-12noon/3pm5.30pm. www.basilicasalutevenezia.it. Fondamenta Salute, 30123. T: 041 2743911. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map E5

Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari Known by the Venetians simply as ‘i Frari’, this landmark features 17 monumental altars and is the largest church in the city. This medieval church in Gothic-Venetian style, houses, in addition to two paintings by Titian, the tombs and funerary monuments of numerous famous people, including Titian, Monteverdi and Canova. chorusvenezia.org. Campo dei Frari. T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 1, 2, N (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Santi Giovanni e Paolo One of the city’s most important examples of medieval architecture, Santi Giovanni e Paolo is considered the Pantheon of Venice because all the Venetian doges, starting from the 13th century, are buried here, together with numerous other notable personages. www.basilicasantigiovanniepaolo.it. Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo (Please note: this site might be marked in Venetian dialect

EDITOR'S TIP

11 MUSEUMS, 1 TICKET

Full price ticket €24 > This ticket is valid for: the Museum of St Mark's Square (Doge's Palace, Museo Correr, Museo Archeologico Nazionale, Monumental Rooms of the Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana), Ca' Rezzonico-Museum of 18th-Century Art, Museum of Palazzo Mocenigo and Museum of Textiles and Costumes, Carlo Goldoni's House, Ca' Pesaro-International Gallery of Modern Art + Oriental Art Museum, Glass Museum in Murano, Lace Museum in Burano and Museum of Natural History. Info & Reservations: www.visitmuve.it Call center 848 082000. From abroad +39 041 42730892. 52  W H E R E V E N I C E I J U LY 2018

Doge's Palace

PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK

The Museum Pass is a combined ticket that offers access to all the permanent collections of Venice’s civic and affiliated museums. The Pass is valid for 6 months and allows one entry per museum site.


MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

as ‘san ZaniPolo’ on the city’s maps). T: 041 5235913. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Fondamente Nove stop, Ospedale Civile stop). Map F3

Scala Contarini del Bovolo

| SIGHTSEEING

FREE ADMISSION TO STATE MUSEUMS

Palazzo Contarini is an exquisite, late Gothic building. However, what makes it such a popular attraction today, was the addition, by its architects, in 1499, of an amazing, external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. Open Tues-Sun: 10am1.30pm/2pm-6pm. www.scalacontarinidelbovolo. com. c/o Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo. San Marco, 4299 (Campo Manin, Rio San Luca). T: 041 3096605. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map E4

Teatro La Fenice Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only strongly associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it is also a stunning feat of architecture. teatrolafenice. it. Ticket office T: 041 2424. San Marco, 1965 (Campo San Fantin). Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E4

The islands Although the whole of Venice lies on an archipelago, an ‘excursion to the islands’ generally means a half-day cruise on a boat to visit the islands of Murano, Torcello and Burano, three charming, small islands, rich in history and tradition. Murano is famous throughout the world for its hand-blown glass (artisanal workshops still display glassmakers at work). Torcello, birthplace of the lagoon, once a thriving town with 8,000 inhabitants, is today a semirural island with only 17 permanent residents and two medieval churches that speak poignantly of past glories, and Burano, one of the most photographed sights in the world, thanks to colourful houses reflected in its canals. Burano is also famous for its artisanal lace work and a particular kind of biscuit, which also resembles lace. Find out more and buy tickets for your trip to these magical destinations. Visitors love these islands, and there may be a risk of not finding a seat on the boat. See Map page 62.

MUSEUMS & EXHIBITION SITES Ca’ Pesaro-International Gallery of Modern Art Hosts important 19th and 20th century collections of paintings and sculptures, including masterpieces by Klimt and Chagall as well as noteworthy oeuvres by the likes of Kandinsky, Klee, Matisse and Moore. Other highlights include a rich selection of works by Italian artists and an important selection of graphics. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10. www.capesaro. visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 2076. Vaporetto line 2 (San Stae stop). Map E3

Ca’ Rezzonico-Museum of Eighteenth Century Venetian Art The large staircase of this magnificent palazzo leads to several elegant rooms housing paintings, sculptures and 18th century furnishings (first

Ca' d'Oro Every first Sunday of the month, more than 450 museums and archaeological sites across Italy open their doors to the public free of charge. Venice, like many other cities in the country, has joined this initiative promoted by the Ministry of Cultural Heritage by offering free admission to the museums listed below on Sunday 1 July. Gallerie dell’Accademia www.gallerieaccademia.org Dorsoduro, 1050 (Campo della Carità) Open Mon 8.15-2pm and Tues-Sun 8.15-7.15pm.

Museo di Palazzo Grimani www.palazzogrimani.org Castello, 4858. Open daily 10am-5pm. Museo Nazionale di Villa Pisani (National Museum Villa Pisani) www.villapisani.beniculturali.it Via Doge Pisani 7, Stra (20 minutes from Venice) Open Tues-Sun 9am-5pm.

Galleria Giorgio Franchetti alla Ca’ d’Oro (Giorgio Franchetti Gallery at Ca’ d’Oro). www.cadoro.org Cannaregio, 3932. Open Mon 8.15am-6.45pm and Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Museo d’Arte Orientale (Oriental Art Museum). www.arteorientale.org Santa Croce, 2076. Open Tues-Sun 10am-5pm. Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Venezia (National Archaeological Museum of Venice) www.polomuseale.venezia.beniculturali.it Piazzetta San Marco, 17/52. Open daily 10am-5pm.

Palazzo Grimani, Chamber of Apollo

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SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

PALAZZO CINI-LA GALLERIA This elegant house-museum hosts an impressive selection of Italian paintings, sculptures and objet d’art dating from the 13th through 16th centuries, including this tempera on a wood panel by Sandro Botticelli (1455-1510) titled ‘The Judgement of Paris’.

floor): the ‘Portego dei dipinti’ featuring canvases by Canaletto, a room dedicated to Longhi and the frescoes painted by Giandomenico Tiepolo detached from the walls of Villa Zianigo (second floor); the rooms of the Farmacia Ai do San Marchi and the exquisite Pinacoteca Egidio Martini (third floor). Alternately, the Browning Mezzanine houses the works of the Mestrovich Collection, including works by artists like Tintoretto and Bonifacio de’ Pitati. Closed on Tues, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10. www.carezzonico.visitmuve.it. Dorsoduro 3136 (Fondamenta Rezzonico). T: 041 2410100. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). Map D5

Fondazione Cini-San Giorgio Maggiore Set against the magnificent backdrop of the Basin of St Mark, the Foundation was established in 1951 by Count Vittorio Cini to restore the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore and to create an international centre of cultural activities. The Foundation is housed in the monumental complex of the former Benedictine Monastery of San Giorgio Maggiore, a place of inestimable architectural and artistic prestige, thanks to works by several of Italy’s greatest 16th and 17th century masters. Enlarged in the 16th century by Andrea Palladio, who also designed its refectory, the church of San Giorgio Maggiore and the Cloister of Cypresses, in addition to numerous other treasures, the complex hosts an impressive collection of paintings by Jacopo Tintoretto, as well as several 16th and 17th century works of arts. Guided tours in Italian, English and French on Saturdays and Sundays. For information and booking T: 041 2201215. Full price ticket €10. www.cini.it. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 2710280. Vaporetto line 2 (Isola di San Giorgio stop). Map G6

Gallerie dell'Accademia di Venezia

VENETIAN MUSEUM HUB Following a Napoleonic decree, the Gallerie dell'Accademia were instituted as an educational adjunct to the Academy of Fine Arts. They host the most important collection of Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo, and works by 54  W H E R E V E N I C E I J U LY 2018

several important landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The monumental complex hosting these works occupies the ancient church of Santa Maria della Carità, the Scuola Grande della Carità and the Canonici Lateranensi convent complex designed by Andrea Palladio in 1561. Open Mon 8.15am-2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Full ticket price: €9. Ticket pricing may vary during temporary exhibitions. www.gallerieaccademia.it. Dorsoduro 1050 (Campo della Carità). T: 041 5222247. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop). Map D5

in addition to the archaeological section featuring Roman remains from the 1st and 2nd centuries A.D., you can also find an extensive range of historical objet d’art made from Murano glass, including important pieces produced between the 15th and 20th centuries. Open daily. Full price ticket €10. Joint ticket for the Glass Museum + Lace Museum €12. www. museovetro.visitmuve.it. Fondamenta Giustinian, 8. Murano. T: 041 5274718. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2 (Museo Murano stop). Off Map

Museo Correr

Museo di San Marco

The museum is located in the old Royal Palace in St. Mark’s Square and includes the Napoleonic Wing and the Procuratie Nuove. Built to house Teodoro Correr’s collection, it features several exhibition spaces dedicated to the art and history of Venice. These include the neo-classical rooms housing sculptures by Antonio Canova, historic collections describing the changing cityscape of Venice and, finally, the pinacoteca, boasting important masterpieces of Venetian art from its origins to the 16th century. Open daily. www.correr.visitmuve.it. San Marco 52 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2405211. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso stop or, San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 - 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

The itinerary that you’ll follow inside the museum, will take you from the historic area above the atriumnarthex of the Basilica and the former Banqueting Hall of the Doges, through the three extensive themes that are a part of the heritage of St. Mark’s Basilica: Mosaics, Textiles, the Quadriga and the Antico. Particularly noteworthy, amongst its relics and artworks, are the famous gilded bronze horses of St. Marks and the Basilica’s ancient fragments of mosaics, preserved in special containers known as ‘cassine’. The tour of the museum takes visitors through various areas of the Basilica, we therefore suggest wearing attire that is respectful of the religious nature of the Basilica. Open daily 9.45am-4.45pm. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €5. www. museosanmarco.it. San Marco 328 (Procuratoria di San Marco). T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto linee 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 o 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Museo del Merletto (Lace Museum) Located in Burano, the museum is housed in a small building, formerly home to Venice’s famous Lace School. Boasting more than two-hundred rare, priceless pieces, the exhibition chronicles the evolution of the art of lace-making in Venice from the 16th to 20th centuries. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €5. Joint ticket for the Glass Museum and the Lace Museum €12. www. museomerletto.visitmuve.it. Piazza Galuppi 187, Burano. T: 041 730034. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2, 5.2 (Fondamenta Nove stop), and then line 12 (Burano stop). Off Map

Museo del Vetro (Glass Museum) Housed in the aristocratic palazzo Giustinian, on the island of Murano, the collections exhibited at the museum are arranged in chronological order:

Museo Ebraico di Venezia

JEWISH MUSEUM This a ‘dispersed museum’; a highly unusual urban complex that includes the museum itself, the Ghetto, synagogues and an ancient cemetery. It contains a small but precious collection of artifacts related to the long history of the Jews in Venice. Thanks to guided tours (in Italian and English), you can visit three of the area’s five historic synagogues, located between the Ghetto Vecchio (Old Ghetto) and the Ghetto Nuovo (New Ghetto), and the Old Cemetery (16th-18th century) in San Nicolò del Lido. Finally, to commemorate the tragedy of the Second World War, there is a bronze


MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

relief Holocaust Memorial in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo. Full price ticket €4; Jewish Museum + guided tour of the synagogues : full price ticket €10. www. museoebraico.it. Cannaregio 2902\b. T: 041 71535. Vaporetto lines 1-2 (San Marcuola-Ghetto stop), lines 41-42-51-52 (Ponte delle Guglie-Ghetto stop). Map D2

Museo Storico Navale della Marina Militare The Historic Naval Museum, the most important of its kind in Italy, is owned by the Italian Navy and is devoted to Venice’s seafaring history. In addition to the main building, whose exhibition spaces span 42 rooms and five floors, the ‘Padiglione delle Navi’ (Ships Pavilion), located in the Arsenale’s old ‘Oars Workshop’, is also a part of the museum. Built in the mid-16th century as a workshop to build and store oars, since 1980 it has housed an impressive collection of historical vessels, and is an extension of the main museum’s headquarters. Castello 2148, Riva San Biasio. T: 041 2441399. Padiglione delle Navi. www.marina.difesa.it. Castello 2162/c (Rio della Tana). T: 041 2711411. Vaporetto line 1, 4.1, 4.2 (Arsenale stop). Map H5

T: 041 5200995. Vaporetto line 1 (Sant’Angelo stop), 2 (San Samuele stop). Map E4

Palazzo Grassi Punta della Dogana Overlooking the Grand Canal and recently restored by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, Venice’s 18th century Palazzo Grassi and the former harbour of Punta della Dogana are two contemporary art museums funded by the François Pinault Foundation. They host important collective or monographic exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault Collection, one of the world’s largest collections of contemporary art. Palazzo Grassi’s ‘Teatrino’, an adjunct to the exhibition spaces, offers an action packed calendar of conferences, concerts and screenings of an international scope. Open daily 10am-7pm. Closed on Tuesdays, 25 December. Full price ticket €18 (Punta della Dogana+Palazzo Grassi). www. palazzograssi.it. T: 041 2001057. Palazzo Grassi

| SIGHTSEEING

San Marco 3231 (Campo San Samuele). Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop), 1 (Sant’Angelo stop). Map D4 • Museo Punta della Dogana Dorsoduro 2. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map F5

Scuola Grande di San Rocco The headquarters of the San Rocco Brotherhood, this stunning building, to which hardly any modifications have been made, hosts more than 60 masterpieces by artists of the likes of Giorgione, Tiepolo and Titian, still presented in their original layout. Its establishment represented an important moment in the history of 16th century Venetian art, above all thanks to Tintoretto’s famous cycle of Old and New Testament scenes. Open daily, 9.30am5.30pm. Closed on 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10; Scuola Grande + church €8. www. scuolagrandesanrocco.it. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco stop). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Palazzo Cini-La Galleria Situated in the Venetian 'Museums Mile', between the Accademia, the Peggy Guggenheim collection and the Punta della Dogana, the 16th century Palazzo Cini in San Vio is the house-museum of Count Vittorio Cini, and houses some remarkable art collections: 14th-15th century paintings from Tuscany and Ferraro (Piero della Francesca, Filippo Lippi, Dosso Dossi and Cosmè Tura), period furniture, silverware, ivories and ceramics. Closed on Tuesdays. Full price ticket €10. www.palazzocini.it. Dorsoduro 864 (San Vio). T: 041 2710217. Vaporetto Lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop), lines 2, 4, 5, 6 (Zattere stop). Map E5

Palazzo Ducale A landmark attraction, a masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, the Ducal Palace features a number of different architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it not only houses temporary exhibitions but can also be visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. The public entrance to the Doge’s Palace is through the ‘Porta del Frumento’ which leads to the spacious council rooms and then onwards to the exquisite rooms of the Doge’s Apartment. Other highlights on this route include the prisons and loggias overlooking the square and the lagoon. Open daily. www.palazzoducale. visitmuve.it. San Marco, 1 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti), 5.1 or 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Palazzo Fortuny Mariano Fortuny (Granada 1871 - Venice 1949) transformed Palazzo Pesaro degli Orfei into his own personal atelier for photography, set-design, textile creations and paintings. The museum’s collections boasts pieces and materials commissioned for important projects: paintings, lighting systems, photography and ornate garments. The building is now used to host art exhibitions. The museum is open only during temporary exhibitions. Open 10am-6pm. Closed on Tuesdays. www.fortuny. visitmuve.it. San Marco 3958 (Campo San Benedeto).

Discovering Italy, amidst history and nature

‘Arcipelago Italia’ is the title of the Italian Pavilion at the Arsenale. Its curator, Mario Cucinella, has created a thought-provoking itinerary inviting the public to look at several areas of Italy, which though forgotten and marginalized, nevertheless have the potential to withstand the country’s social and political disintegration. Eight itineraries and eight contemporary architecture projects feature historic towns, roads, landscapes and nature reserves: parts of the country that are less well-known but beautiful and well-worth discovering. The pavilion showcases several contemporary architecture projects designed for inhabited areas that are far-removed from major centres, yet are able to reacquire centrality in the dialogue between new needs, layers of history and landscapes. The presentation, at the evocative structure of the Arsenale, is both captivating and engaging. Before embarking on this tour of Italy, take the opportunity to watch the documentary “L’altro spazio” which describes this trip through the inland territories in search of the roots of both the material and immaterial knowledge found in Italy’s history and geography. www.labiennale.org

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ENTERTAINMENT

Arlecchino, the universal mask Designed for an international audience, and inspired by the tradition of the ‘Commedia dell’Arte’ , this must-see performance will be staged at one of Venice’s oldest theatres. By Elena Peverata

T

en years after they were forced by fate to separate, a pair of lovers are reunited in Venice, where they rekindle their love. The driving force behind ‘Arlecchino Furioso’, an original comedy written in the classical canon of the ‘Commedia dell’Arte’ – an art form whose colours and masks have conveyed the vitality of popular tradition for more than four centuries – is love with a capital ‘L’. The performance, currently showing at Venice’s historical Teatro Carlo Goldoni with supertitles in French and English, offers audiences a unique experience. While sitting on the stage, transformed into a Renaissance theatre, audiences will find themselves surrounded by props, pulleys and stage lights. The story of the two lovers, Leandro and Isabella, acts as a thread to the escapades of Arlecchino and the beautiful Romanella, the object of his desire and the reason for his insane 56  W H E R E V E N I C E I J U LY 2018

jealousy. The story of their love, accompanied by the notes of an accordion, is presented on a small improvised stage set up amongst the audience, in the manner of olden-day Commedia dell’Arte performances. Performed in a variety of languages and dialects, enhanced by the use of masks, costumes, duels, songs, music and pantomimes, ‘Arlecchino Furioso’, the story of the amorous adventures of Venice’s most famous mask, becomes universal to audiences of all nationalities. And what better place to stage this performance than the Teatro Goldoni? Built in 1622, it played host for ten years to Carlo Goldoni, the famous comedy writer, who reformed the wellestablished Italian Commedia dell’Arte dramatic form by changing it from an improvised street performance into a structured play, giving dignity and character to Arlecchino, his most irreverent protagonist.

>> Arlecchino Furioso 6 July-21 October For July dates visit the website or ask your concierge. Teatro Goldoni, San Marco 4650/ B (Calle del Teatro). www.teatrostabileveneto.it


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CONCERT VENUES & THEATRES Teatro La Fenice

UNMISSABLE Located in the Sestiere San Marco, La Fenice Opera House is the one of the most legendary opera houses in Italy. Twice destroyed by fire (1836 and 1996) and twice restored to its former splendour, for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, symphonies and the International Festival of Contemporary Music. In the 19th century, it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Gioachino Rossini, Vincenzo Bellini, Gaetano Donizetti and Giuseppe Verdi, while in the 20th century it became a focal point for contemporary productions. www.teatrolafenice.it. The theater is generally open daily for tours from 9.30am to 6pm. Full ticket: 10 €. The ticket price includes an audio guide, available in 5 languages (Italian, English, German, French and Spanish). San Marco, 4387 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 786672. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5

GAMBLING & CASINOS Casinò di Venezia Inaugurated in 1638, this is the world's oldest gaming house and its charm has remained unaltered over the years. A perfect example of renaissance style stately home, the dwelling place of the doges and Richard Wagner’s last residence, Ca’ Vendramin Calergi is one of the most elegant buildings overlooking Venice’s major waterway, the Grand Canal. Today the rooms for elegant French games and American gaming tables are given over to the best professionals, whilst over 600 slot machines provide a more informal way of having fun. For venues, opening times, tickets: www.casinovenezia. it. Ca’ Vendramin Calergi - Cannaregio, 2040. T. 041 5297111. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marcuola stop). • Ca' Noghera - Italy’s first American-style casino,

opened in 1999, it offers over 5,000 square meters of entertainment, including a new poker room for Texas hold’em Poker tournaments. Via Paliaga 4/8 Tessera (5 minutes from the Marco Polo Airport). Map E2

VENETO HOT VENUES

LA FENICE OPERA HOUSE www.teatrolafenice.it

Arena di Verona The best-preserved Roman amphitheater in the world and the best known in Italy after Rome’s Colosseum, the Arena, the city’s legendary open-air opera house, is located in Verona’s historic centre (115 km from Venice). Each summer, since 1913, it hosts a famous opera festival featuring must-see performances and internationally renowned stars. www.arena.it. Verona, piazza Bra 1. T: 045 8005151, 5873. Off Map

WELLNESS Boscolo Venezia Elegance, style and design blend to create a regenerating oasis, the ideal place for a one-of-akind pampering experience offering a rich program of wellness and body treatments. c/o Boscolo Venezia. Cannaregio, 3500 (Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto - Calle Larga Piave). T: 041 2208111. Vaporetto line 4.1 and 5.1 (Sant’Alvise stop). Map E2

San Clemente Palace Kempinski Here you can experience the Herb Massage Therapy service, a new approach to healing: an intimate and authentic journey based on the restorative powers of herb plants and the sensuous scents of Venice. The San Clemente Palace Kempinski offers a variety of massages - relaxing, Swedish and deep tissue combining essential oils of lavender, rosemary and sage. Teas and coffee made with Venetian herbs and spices are complimentary. c/o San Clemente Palace Kempinski. www.kempinski.com. Isola di San Clemente, 1. T: 041 4750111. Hotel’s complimentary boat from piazza San Marco. Off Map

■ OPERA 1, 3, 5, 7 July RICHARD III by Giorgio Battistelli Tito Ceccherini, conductor Robert Carsen, director Radu and Miruna Boruzescu, sets & costumes Robert Carsen/Peter van Praet, lighting Ian Burton, dramaturg ■ CONCERTS

Photo Ennevi - Fondazione Arena di Verona

6, 8 July Music by Franz Schubert and Béla Bartók Henrik Nánási, conductor Giovanni Andrea Zanon, violin ■ BALLET 21, 22 July at Sale Apollinee LES ETOILES NATIONAL BALLET-GALA NIGHT The programme includes a variety of repertoire pieces, such as Victory Gsovskly’s Grand Pas Classique to music by Daniel Aube, the virtuoso pas de deux of Diana and Atteone with choreography by Agrippina Vaganova to music by Riccardo Drigo, George Balanchine’s famous Čajkovskij Pas de Deux and Spartacus, by the legendary Yuri Grigorovich to music by Aram Khachaturian.

ARENA DI VERONA Every summer, for the past one hundred years, Verona’s picturesque Arena offers audiences a chance to enjoy several of the world’s most prestigious operas. On 22 June, the 96th Arena Opera Festival will kick off with Bizet’s ‘Carmen’. www.arena.it

The Teatro La Fenice is usually open for tours daily from 9.30am to 6pm, although variations may occur in the schedule for artistic or technical reasons. The Theatre hosts a Maria Callas exhibition focused on her Venetian years. Ticket: 10 euros (including an audio guide, which is available in 5 languages: Italian, English, German, French and Spanish). www.festfenice.com

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PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK

ESSENTIALS

Venice, the floating city Some information and invaluable tips to experience the best that this magical city on water has to offer. By Simona P. K. Daviddi Italians (at least many of them), may already know that Venice… actually floats! Unlike Amsterdam or Saint Petersburg, it is not just furrowed by canals, bordered by roads and pavements. In Venice, canals are the only available communication route, bearing in mind that part of the city extends over a handful of beautiful islands that are scattered across the Lagoon. For this reason, the lagoon city can only be crossed on foot or by boat. Cars, motorbikes, bicycles and even roller skates are strictly forbidden. But this is not all. At times Venice may find itself... under water! The acqua alta phenomenon – the result of heavy rainfall and high tides - can cause the water level to rise by as much as a meter, forcing everyone to walk on raised plank walkways, or don rain boots (many shops, including tobacconists, sell disposable ones) 58  W H E R E V E N I C E I J U LY 2018

in order to cross the city’s flooded calli, campielli and salizade. Calli, campielli and salizade are Venetian words used to identify streets, squares and alleys while sestieri is the local word indicating the six districts the city is divided into: San Marco, Dorsoduro, Cannaregio, Santa Croce, San Polo and Castello. This division dates back to the 12th century and also includes areas such as La Giudecca, the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore (San Marco) and the Island of San Michele, home to the city’s cemetery (Castello). Street numbers in each sestiere start from 1 and often reach four figures, for example, one of the last numbers of the sestiere of Castello is 7,000. You need to learn them if you want to find your way through the spectacular, maze-like historic centre.

Venice also has its own network of public... and private transportation: its vaporetti, real waterbuses, are the most popular craft used by locals, which is why they are often very crowded during peak hours. These enginepowered water taxis are able to whiz across the lagoon in a heartbeat, but for those who prefer a unique, incredibly romantic experience, the famous, distinctive gondola is an absolute must. This elegant, black, one-oared rowing boat drifts gently across the water, while its gondolier sings an entire repertoire of traditional Venetian folk songs. It goes without saying that the waters of the canals are not suitable for swimming, and their banks are often slippery. Be careful not to be so focused on your selfie stick that you walk into a canal because you might be in for some rather unpleasant surprises!


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Emergency

UNIQUE | FAST TRAINS NETWORK FROM VENICE

POLICE T: 113 AMBULANCE T: 118 FIRE BRIGADE T: 115 TRAFFIC POLICE T: 041 2747070 LOST AND FOUND ON VAPORETTI T: 041 2722179 24-HOUR PHARMACY: check the display at

all pharmacies.

Airports INTERNATIONAL MARCO POLO DI TESSERA AIRPORT (VCE) - Venice’s Marco Polo Airport offers easy access to numerous destinations located in the Veneto region and in Northern Italy, the Canova di Treviso Airport (in Sant’Angelo) and main railway routes. The Marco Polo Airport is situated at a distance of 13 km from Venice (www.veniceairport.it). Trasportation from the Marco Polo Airport to the historic centre of Venice (and vice-versa): • Taxis (15 min. to Piazzale Roma, approximately €40); • water taxis (fast, private motorboats, approximately €80 ). This service is operative 24/24h (Consorzio Motoscafi Venezia www.motoscafivenezia.it. T: 041 5222303). • ATVO shuttle bus (20 min. to Piazzale Roma, €3, luggage included); • ACTV bus no. 5 (30 min. to Piazzale Roma with intermediate stops, €1, luggage excluded); • Alilaguna motorboats (a private service that uses ACTV’s network of docking stations with intermediate stops at strategic points throughout the city. Fares range from 8 to 27 euros). www. alilaguna.it. T: 041 2401701.

Trains

“SESTIERI”, THE DISTRICTS OF VENICE

FERROVIE DELLO STATO - Trenitalia Railway

Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com. Venice’s Railway Station (Santa Lucia) can be accessed from all main European and Italian cities. The Railway Station overlooks the lagoon and is located just steps from the stops of Venice’s main public transportation lines. E.g.: to reach St. Mark’s Square by vaporetto, take line 1 or 2. Estimated journey time from main Italian cities via high-speed trains, including Frecciarossa, Frecciabianca, Frecciargento, Italo, Thello, Eurocity:

Tourist Information

Santa Croce

Isola di San Michele

Cannaregio

San Polo Dorsoduro

Castello

San Marco

Giudecca

Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore

APT - Azienda di promozione Turistica Città

Metropolitana di Venezia (eng.turismovenezia. it/): Palazzetto Carmagnani, San Marco 2637. T: 041 5298711. VENEZIA UNICA - The official tourism website

of the City of Venice (www.veneziaunica.it)

Tourist Card VENEZIA UNICA CITY PASS is an all-in-one pass

that offers unlimited use of public transportation, admission to tourist attractions and cultural events in the city, plus a number of other useful services. You can purchase your card online and customize your Venezia Unica City Pass to suit your individual travel needs (www.veneziaunica.it/en) exchange vouchers. Open daily 9am-4pm. T: 392 6786628.

Cannaregio, like Castello, is the largest and most densely populated district of Venice. Its name probably derives from the expanse of reeds found in the swamps on which it was built. Castello takes its name from the castle of which traces still remain today. It extends around the Arsenale and includes the Gardens of the Biennale and the Riva degli Schiavoni. Dorsoduro is named after the compact sand dunes found in this area. It overlooks both the Grand Canal and the Giudecca Canal, along which the long promenade known as the Fondamenta delle Zattere stretches.

San Marco takes its name from the Basilica. This is the city’s main sestiere because it houses the palaces that once constituted the government of Venice until its fall. San Polo, which takes its name from the church of San Polo, is the geographic centre of Venice. It stretches from the highest part of the Rialto Bridge and is the place where the Rialto fish and vegetable market is held. Santa Croce takes its name from the ancient church of the same name which unfortunately was demolished under Napoleon’s rule. It includes the Stazione Marittima and the piazzale Roma terminal, a junction for train and road transport (buses, cars) and lagoon traffic (ferries, vaporetti or water buses).

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5. GALLERIA RAVAGNAN

CAMPO S A N D O N AT O

Chiesa dei Santi Maria e Donato

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A fixture in St. Mark’s Square for the past fifty years, in addition to showcasing the works of established and emerging artists of different nationalities, it collaborates with art galleries throughout the world.

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Dogan

3. BEL-AIR FINE ART

In addition to modern and contemporary artists, this gallery exhibits the works of well-known international and Italian photographers including Campigotto, Morucchio and Galimberti. ND

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ranco runs the prestigious headquarters of the wellinternational group. Founded in 2004, Bel-Air Fine Art lizes in ‘street’, ‘optical’ and contemporary art.

Da cinquant’anni in piazza San Marco, la Galleria Ravagnan espone artisti affermati ed emergenti, di diverse generazioni e nazionalità e collabora con numerose gallerie d’arte in tutto il mondo.

di San Michele in Isoladi artisti moderni e contemporanei La galleriaChiesa ospita esposizioni ed espone opere di fotografi internazionali e italiani quali Campigotto, Morucchio e Galimberti.

ranco dirige l’importante sede veneziana del noto gruppo zionale. Fondata nel 2004, Bel-Air Fine Art si occupa di treet”, “optical” e arte contemporanea.

6. LA GALLERIA

www.ravagnangallery.com Piazza San Marco, 50/a. T: 041 5203021

www.bugnoartgallery.com San Marco, 1996/d. T: 041 5231305

elairfineart.com arco, 2765 (Calle dello Spezier). T: 041 5226529 Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo

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Located steps from La Fenice, besides exhibiting the works of renowned ‘Avant-gardists’ like Daniel Buren and Lore Bert, Dorothea van der Koelen explores new trends in contemporary art.

OGNISANTI RIO TERA’

E

DRIO CALLE LE SCUOL

MAN

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

A due passi dal Teatro La Fenice, Dorothea van der Koelen presenta artisti d’avanguardia e di fama internazionale, tra cui Daniel Buren e Lore Bert, e nuove tendenze dell’arte contemporanea.

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Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo

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Giardino delle Vergini

La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale

www.vanderkoelen.de San Marco, 2566 (Calle Calegheri). T: 041 5207415

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7. MELORISan & ROSENBERG Basilica di Pietro

La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese

Arsenale di Venezia

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CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

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Aeroporto Nicelli Venezia Lido

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La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale

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Palazzo Querini Stampalia

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San Giovanni Novo

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United States

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San Giuliano

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Pavilion Since 1996, it Russia has represented hyperrealist master Luigi Rocca. Pavilion It showcases a permanent selection of works by international artists Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo Japan Pavilion and also organizes solo and collective exhibitions at various spaces.

Giardini

Museo Storico Navale di Venezia

Arsenale

RC

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Basilica di San Marco

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San Giovanni Grisostomo

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WHERE VENICE MAPS - Copyright Where Italia srl. © 2018. Original Map by Urban File - www.urbanfile.org. Cover Map: Matthaeus Merian (1650). All rights reserved. Editore: Where Italia srl. Supplemento di Where Venice - Reg. Trib. Milano No. 453, 19 July 2010 - Where Italia Srl, iscritto al ROC n. 20182 del 14 settembre 2010 - Direttore Responsabile: Andrea Jarach. info@wheremilan.com - www.wheremilan.com - T: 02 349951. Coordinamento Commerciale: Where Venice www.where-venice.com - T: 340 3026288. Printed by Graphicscalve, località Ponte Formello - 24020 Vilminore di Scalve (Bergamo). WHERE® magazine and WHERE® logo are registered trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications. D

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An expert in the field of local Venetian art, Alessandro offers the best of his research with a particular focus on glass jewelry which he personally selects and appraises.

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Alessandro è fine cultore dell’arte veneziana popolare. Propone il meglio delle sue ricerche con particolare attenzione alle creazioni di gioielli di vetro, che cura personalmente.

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ence point for collectors of modern and contemporary art. ition to hosting events and awards, it focuses on coaching, ting and showcasing the works of emerging artists.

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ESSENTIALS

Because it is a relatively small, compact city (a 45-minute walk from North to South) whose main points of interest are situated just a short distance from each other, visiting Venice on foot is the ideal solution. Vaporetti - An efficient network of water bus routes covers the entire city and includes transportation to the islands.The service is active 24/24h but runs less frequently between 9.30pm and 6am. Landing stages are located at central points around the city (including Piazzale Roma, Rialto, Piazza San Marco…) . Tickets - Although paper tickets are available at main embarkation points and from authorized resellers displaying the ACTV logo, electronic tickets can also be pre-purchased online. ACTV: Piazzale Roma. T: 041 2424. www actv.it. There are 6 different types of tickets, ranging from hourly tickets (€7.50 for a 75’ regular route) to a weekly pass (€60) for unlimited travel on almost all lines. TIP The boat trip from one bank of the Grand Canal to the other costs 2 euro (only cash).You can pre-purchase reducedprice tickets from Venice Connected: www. veniceconnected.com. IMOB smart cards are available at all ACTV ticket offices. Although they allow you to save on official rates, they are only recommended for long-term visits. Gondolas - These traditional craft are among the best-known tourist attraction for those wishing to experience a view of Venice that is anything but pedestrian. They are used almost exclusively by tourists (and Venetians on their wedding days). TIP Before embarking, we suggest that you check official rates (approximately €80 for 45 minutes and €100 after 7pm). Agree on a price, time limit and singing in advance to avoid unexpected surcharges. Associazione dei Gondolieri T. 041 5285075. www. gondolavenezia.it

Gondolas, a tourist’s dream! A hallmark symbol of Venice, who has never dreamt of riding on one of these marvels of craftsmanship, whose charms have withstood the test of time? The components (approximately 280) of these extraordinary craft still bear their almost fairytale-like names of the past: ‘sankòni’, ‘fiùboni’, ‘solarai’ and ‘maistre’... To name but a few. Tradition has it that each gondolier has his own gondola, custom-made according to his weight and height. Among the most ancient boatyards (or 'squeri'), the most remarkable is perhaps that of Domenico Tramontin and Sons. Established in 1884, it was the supplier to the House of Savoy, the Prefecture and the Commune of Venice (Dorsoduro, 1542. www.tramontingondole.it). An interesting feature that you are bound to notice on a gondolier’s uniform is the logo. Its most recent version was created by the Style Department of Duca d’Aosta, a shop established in 1902 in the Rialto neighbourhood by Emilio Ceccato. The logo features St. Mark as the Winged Lion, holding an open book, a symbol of peace and strength, framed by two 'ferri' – the traditional iron gondola prow ornaments (also known in Venetian as 'fero da próva' or 'dolfin').

GALEONE VENEZIANO

Traghetti (Ferries) - ‘Traghetti’ are gondolas that cross the Grand Canal in 8 points. ‘Traghetti’ rides cost just €2 for non-residents (for holders of City Pass Venezia Unica or ACTV passes, rides cost 0.70) and operate almost nonstop. Four ferry services operate in Venice. Taxi - Water taxis with a cabin (private water taxis) are available for hire from 16 landing stages, including Lido Aeroporto Marco Polo, piazzale Roma, Ferrovia, Rialto and San Marco, or from your hotel. TIP Although private water taxis can be costly, they are the fastest and most practical means of getting around Venice. Ask your concierge. Car - The city can be accessed from the mainland by car, thanks to an elevated section (a 4km bridge, the longest in Italy, also known as the ‘Translagunare’), with limited parking options at garages in Piazzale Roma or on the Island of Tronchetto. Prices for 24-hour parking cost approximately €30 euro. TIP It’s advisable to travel to Mestre by car (24-hour parking costs approximately €15 euro) and then continue on to Venice by public transport.

This is a unique way to visit Venice’s lagoon while savouring its aristocratic beauty and historical legacy. Built in 2001 to bring ship owner Andrea Longo’s longtime dream to life, the “Galeone Veneziano”is a vessel inspired by the ancient galleons, used in bygone days, by the Serenissima. • Services: designed to merge history with a contemporary twist, the galleon offers all the

Bringing one home as a keepsake is neither easy (nor cheap!), but you can avoid this by purchasing a souvenir created ad hoc. Where? At Emilio Ceccato’s clothing and accessory store, the official supplier and technical sponsor of the Associazione Gondolieri di Venezia (The Gondolier’s Association of Venice) in San Polo 16/17 (T: 041 5222700) and in San Marco, 257 (T: 041 8478885). www.emilioceccato.com

PHOTO © SVIDA_WHEREITALIA

GETTING AROUND VENICE

services of a modern ship. This one-of-a-kind venue is perfect for parties and a great way to amaze your travel companions; it can be rented for private events such as weddings and business meetings, offering guests a special tour, with or without lunch or dinner, while sailing around the islands. The galleon can be decorated with flags and banners. • Events: every Wednesday and Friday evening, you can book a table for a “Galleon Dinner Cruise in Venice” (by reservation only, just 30 seats): a charming candle-lit dinner that allows guests to take in the sights while sailing in front of Saint Mark’s square and moving on towards Murano, Burano, Mazzorbo. • About the Galeone Veneziano: It can sail all year long as it has a rigid covering and heating during the winter; in summer, in case of bad weather it has a protective covering. The Galleon is equipped with a wired audio system with microphones and is accessible to the differently-abled. There are two galleons in the fleet, each one with a maximum capacity of 146 passengers for private events, and 84 seats for table service. • Information: +39 0421 380006. info@jollyroger.it - www.galeoneveneziano.it w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com  61


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ISOLA SAN GIACOMO IN PALUDE

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Japan Pavilion

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SA

SE

C.

GIUSEP

SARES

O E ANC

DOMENICO CALLE SAN

VIALE

CALL

TI

CALLE

COPPO

SCHIAVONA

AR

LARGA

MARAFONI

CALLE

SANT'ANNA

CALLE CORERA

CALLE

M

Basilica di San Pietro di Castello CALLE

CALLE TERCO

F O N D A M E N TA

C A L L E C ATA PA N

CALLE

TE

CALLE DELL’ANGELO

DELFINA

GRIMANI

FONDAMENTA

LA CERTOSA

Vergini

FOND. SAN GIOACCHIN

I

OLO C A L L E G I A N B AT T I S TA T I E P

CALLE

CALLE

NUOVA

DEI PRETI

CALLE

de le

N TA R I O D E L L A TA NA

OSPIZIO

CALLE

LE

San Francesco di Paola BALD

AN

CALLE

ENA

COLTRERA

CALLE

CALLE

GARI

EPPE

CALLE FRIZIER

I S ET

C. LOREDANA

DE

EL

FONDAMENTA

ARS

NALE

FONDAME

IUS VIA G

VA

CH

Ponte

E N TA

TA A R SE

LA TANA

CALLE

AM

DELLA

MI

ERBE

RAMO DE

CROSERA

ND

CALLE

E

LE

AMEN

TANA

CALLE

FO

CALLE ALBERO

LL

JUNGHANS

DE

FOND

DE LA

Punta della Dogana

FO

Redentore O

Santissimo Redentore

CALLE MORE

del

DAM

La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale

CAMPO

CALLE

SAN GI ACOM

CA

CAMPO

CALLE

VIDA

CASTELLO

M E N TA

LA

ISOLA DI

GIUDECCA FONDA

DEI

DE

Museo Storico Navale di Venezia

DI

PICCOLO

FON

FONDAMENTA ARSENALOTTI

CALLE

PIETRO

PONTE

PALLADA

SCUOLA

Giardino delle Vergini

Rio

San Martino

MOROSINA

CALLE DELA CREA

Zitelle

FONDAMENTA

FONDAMENTA

La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale

La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese

RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

Spirito Santo

IA

CALLE

PESTRIN

GRITTI CALLE

SAN

FEM

DE CALLE

CROSERA

Arsenale di Venezia

Arsenale di Venezia

PIGNATER

RUGA VECCHIA

FORNACE

SALONI

'EU

PISCINA

DE

C. VOLTO

TERRÀ

NT

SCUOLA

MARTIN

L’ARCO

CALLE

ONI

CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO

CATECUMENI

RIO

SA

CALLE

DE

SALIZADA

DEL PIOVAN

RIO TERRÀ

FONDAMENTA

DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO

TA

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

Moise

DEL TRAGHETTO

MARTIRI

San

CALLE

RIDOTTO

TREDICI

Rio

CALLE

VALLARESSO

CALLE

CALLE

SARTOR

FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN

CAMPO DELLA SALUTE

Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

San Gregorio

RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO

Giudecca Palanca EN

NUOVE

CASTELLO

L’ANZOLO

BASTION

C. DEL

ASCENSIONE

DEI PUTI

AM

CELESTIA

DONA

DE

SCUDI

LARGA

CALLE

SEBASTIAN

ND

CASTELLO CASE

DELLA

CALLE

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI

DEL

CALLE

SAN

CALLE DEL PESTRIN

FO

COSMO

SESTIERE

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA

DE L’OGIO

CALLE

SAN ANTONIN

S C H I AV

DEI FORNI

FO

Sant'Eufemia

NUOVE

SECONDO SAGRADO

CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA

CORTE DEL MORION

CORTE DELLE GATE

R I VA D EGLI

S. Zaccaria (Pieta')

Arsenale

BIAGIO

CALLE

CASE

RAMO

CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA

CORTE SACCA

SAN

CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO

San Giovanni Battista in Bragora

VONI

100 m

SAN

CONVERTITE

San Francesco della Vigna

FRANCESCO

SANTA GIUSTINA

CALLE DEI FURLANI

SALIZADA

CALLE TERAZZERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’

Santa Maria della Pietà SCHIA

S. Zaccaria (Danieli)

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

SAN

SALIZADA

DEGLI

VERONA

RIO

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA

San Giovanni di Malta

San Giorgio dei Greci

San Zaccaria

CALLE BOSELLO

LA

MINELLI

DEGLI

O

DEGLI

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

SALUTE

LAVRANERI

ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

ZON

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

VIN CALLE DEL

Palazzo

DE

CAVALLETTO

ORSEOLO

FONDAMENTA DEL VIN

DEL

SOTO E CORTE NOVA

C.

Rio Del

FABBRI

FONDAMENTA

C.

CALLE

S. SAMUELE

PESTRIN

FONDAMENTA

CALLE DEL BASTION

FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE SAN LORENZO

CALLE LION

DE L’OSMARIN FONDAMENTA

CAMPO SAN PROVOLO

CALLE

SPECHIERI

SPADARIA

DEI

DEL

CALLE

TRONCHETTO

DEL NOVA ISOLA

FONDAMENTA

ra Scomenze De

MARITTIMO

Canale

PORTO

FONDAMENTA

F. CONDULMER

DIREZIONE

MARITTIMO

CERERIA LA

PORTO

DE

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA

San Lorenzo

CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA

CALLE

DEI PRETI

GATE

CALLE

DRASI

C.

DEL CAFETIER

CORTE NOVA

ZORZI SALIZADA

C. PIANTON

R I VA

DE LE

DEI

CALLE

C. DE LE COLONNE

DELL’OROLOGIO

PISCINA

VERONA

RC

CALLE

CALLE

MARZARIA

REDIVO

CALLE GOLDONI

CALLE

LA

CALLE

DE

A N M

SALIZADA

a

CALLE

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

SEVERO

DIREZIONE

LATERANO

SAN

FABBRI

Marittim

P U N TA S A B B I O N I Santa Maria del Pianto

DE LE TOLE

FONDAMENTA GIOVANNI

CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO

BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO

GIUFFA

CASSELERIA

DEI

C.

MANDOLA

AVVOCATI

TERÀ

RIELO

SPORCA CALLE PAZIENZE DE LE

LORENZO

FONDAMENTA

C. SAN

SCOAZZERA DE LA

LE PAZIENZE

SA

MEZO

CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO

Palazzo Ducale

LO

Rio San Lorenzo

DE CALLE

RUGA

CALLE

PISCOPIA

CARBON

Salvador

MARCO

CANONICA DE LA

O

MO

FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO

LIO

DEL

LARGA

BARBARIA

SAN

CORTE NUOVA

San Giovanni Novo CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO

SAN

CALLE

RC

SCHIAVONI RIVA

LE VIGNOLE

NOVE

Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto

CORTE TREVISAN

Palazzo Querini Stampalia

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

REMEDIO DEL CALLE

LARGA

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

Basilica di San Marco

MA

FONDAMENTA

SAN

San

RIO

CALLE

CALLE

San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti

Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo

Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo

CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

FORNO

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani

BANDE

CORTE FRUTARIOLI

CALLE DEL FIGHER

CALLE

BALONI

CAPPELLO

SAN

CALLE ERIZZO

SALIZADA

DE LE

ORBI

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

CALLE

DEI

CALLE

Rio

C.

MAGAZZINI

G. GALLINA

DEL

DE LE ERBE

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

TASCA

CORTE DEL FORNO

C.DEI

BIANCA CALLE

ZZA

CALLE

BEMBO

ZULIAN

CORTE TORRETTA

Museo Correr

Salute

ZATTERE

DE LA SACA

CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO

CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO

LARGA

CALLE

O MUSSATO CALLE

San Giuliano

SAN

PIGNOLI

REMER

CALLE

GRIMANI

CAVALLI

LUCATELLO

MARZARIA DEI

PIA

O DEL

CINQUE

CALLE

CALLE

CORNER

AI

DEI

LICINI

MEZO

C.

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

FONDAMENTA

CORTE NOVA

CALLE GABRIELI

DRIO CALLE LE SCUOLE

CALLE

CALLE

CORTE

RUBBI

DE

CORTE GRAGOLINA

Bacino Orseolo

Ca' Giustinian

RI

Palazzo Genovese

Spirito Santo CALLE

DEI LAVRANERI

San Gerardo

BIAGIO

NOVE

CORTE CORTESE

CAMPIELLO STELLA

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

CASTELLI

PIOMBO

D. PALLE

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

LIO

C. LARGA

CORTE

CALLE

CAPITELLO

BALOTE

GALLO SAN

BERLENDIS

VARISCO

CALLE

CALLE DEL C.MARTINENGO

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

CAMPO

DE LA FAVA

CALICE

DEL

TAGIAPIERA

LE

GRAGOLINA LE COLONNE DE

STRAZZE TERÀ RIO

CALLE CAMPO SAN GALLO

BOTERI

CALLE

O

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN

CALLE

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

MIRACOLI

GIAZZO

SAN

GALIAZZO

C. DEL

SALVADOR

MARZARIA

CORTE C.DEL TRAMONTIN

C.DE

COCCO

TOSCANA

CALLE

Stazione

DEI

CALLE

DE

SAN

DELLE

CARRO

PRIMO RAMOCONTARINA CORTE

San Moisè

Palazzo Pisani Gritti

PONTE

SACCA SAN

DEI

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

WIDMANN

CALLE

SALIZADA

SABION

C.

C.

DEL CALLE

CORTE BAROZZI

FONDAMENTE

LARGA

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

C O RT E B ATA G I A

RIO

Teatro Malibran

CAMPO

C. DEL

CORTE DEL

MARZARIA

San Salvador

FRUTARIOL

DEL

CAMPO SAN MOISE’

CASTELLO

CALLE

MADONA

zera

ORESI

DE LA

FORNO

RAMO

DEL

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

FREZZERIA

MOISE’

SA PISCINA

XXII MARZO

SESTIERE

DEI

PARANGON

CALLE

DOLERA

C. DE

RIO TERA’

L' ARZERE

GUARDIANI

DE

TODESCHI

CALLE

CANAL RIO TERA’

C. DEI

LARGA

CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

VENEZIA

CALLE

CAL RAMO

S.Canciano CALLE

CALLE

SAN CANZIAN

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

X

SAN LIO

MAZZINI CORTE

MAGAZEN

DEL

CALLE

DE PISCINA

LA CHIESA

DRIO

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

FONTEGO

PIO

LARGA

SAN SALVADOR

LUCA SAN CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

CORTE

MICHIEL

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

Santa Maria del Giglio

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim

DEL FORNO

CALLE DEL NAVARO

FONDAMENTA

VENIER

CORTE DEL REMER

FRUTARIOL

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

C. DEL

SALIZZADA

CALLE

TEATRO DEL CALLE

LOCANDE CALLE ASSASSINI

San Fantin

Maria del Giglio

CHIESA

SALIZADA

SPIRITO

CALLE

BARBA

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

RUGA

CALLE

DIETRO

VOLTI

GALIZZI

ROSSA

nde Canal Gra

FONDAMENTA

RAGUSEI

FONDAMENTA

CROSERA

CALLE

CALLE

TRAGHETTO

VAPORETTO

CALLE

STURION

DEL

ALLO

ZEN

SARTORI

TERÀ

Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto

Rialto

TEATRO

PATERNIN

MANDOLA

TERÀ

RIO

Teatro la Fenice

DELLA

CAPPUZZI

ZATTERE

CAMPO DEI GESUITI

FONDAMENTA

FOND.

RIO

SALIZADA

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

San Giacomo di Rialto

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

CORTE DEL

Palazzo Nervi Scattolin

CAMPO MANIN SAN CALLE CALLE

CAFETIER

CAOTORTA

Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

CALLE

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

SANTO

DEL

CATERINA

San Giovanni Grisostomo

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

TEATRO

MARCO

DEL

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

San MaurizioSanta

Canal Grande

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

SANTA

PRIULI

NOVA

PESCARIA

Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)

S.Silvestro

DEL

CALLE

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

Santo Stefano

C.SANT'AGNESE

NANI

AI GESUATI

Giudecca Hilton

Chiesa dei Gesuiti

S.ANDREA

FONDAMENTA

Santa Sofia

STRADA

San Silvestro

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

Palazzo Grimani

San Beneto San Luca

SAN BOTEGHE

CAMPO PISANI

CATENE

CAMPO DELLA

RAVANO

DEL

RUGHETA

DEI

CALLE

CAZZIOLA

TRAGHETTO

DEL PISTOR

CALLE

Zattere

NOVE

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

FOND.

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

STUA

BECARIE

DEL SOL

DEL

DEL

CALLE

ZATTERE

CALLE

LA

CAMPO DE LA

CAMPIELLO DEL SANSONI

CAMPIELLO

CALLE

CAMPO SAN BENETO CALLE

LE

CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione FONDAMENTA

FONDAMENTE

Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana

MUTI

CAMPO SAN APONAL

FABBRICHE

CA’

BOTA

Sant’Aponal DEL

LE

LA

CARAMPANE

de r an

NARISI FOND.

DE

CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

San Vidal CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

San Trovaso CAMPO SAN TROVASO

DEL

San Felice

LE

Palazzo Fortuny

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

CROSERA

FALIER

BONLINI

TRAPOLIN

VENDRAMIN

CALLE

DE

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

DI SAN MARCO

SAMUELE

Palazzo Loredan

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

LONGO

IA

CA'

DE DE

CARAMPANE

TERÀ

PERDON

CARROZZE

al G

SESTIERE

S. SALIZADA

LE

Abazia della Misericordia D

R

San Cassiano CALLE CALLE

RIO

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

Can Sant'Angelo

VECCHIA

LEZZE

FONDAMENTA

O

DE

Santa Fosca

CAMPO SAN CASSAN

L’AGNELLA

Palazzo Querini-Dubois

CA’ CORTE

DE

CALLE

S. Samuele

CALLE

OGNISANTI

IC

d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro

TIOZZI

DE

CORTE DEL TEATRO

CAMPO SAN POLO

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

DE

ER

C.

Rio Nuovo

FOND.

IS

NA

DEI

C.

SCALETER

CALLE RAMO

PONTE

M

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

DE

DEL

Palazzo Giustinian Persico S. Toma' SX

Palazzo Grassi San Samuele

Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia

BEATE GIULIANA

SACCA

FISOLA

LARGA

TA

S.Stae

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

CALLE CA’BONVINCINI

BOLDO

C.

EN

TRON

SAN

San Tomà

Ca' Rezzonico

Accademia

ZATTERE AL

CALLE CHIESA

CONTARINI

dell'Orto

AM

MORETTI

C.

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

CAMPO SAN TOMÀ

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI CALLE BERNARDO

FODAMENTA

S. Basilio

DELLA

D

San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale

CALLE

DEL

TENTOR

MEZO

CAMPO

ZANE

CROSERA

Ca' Rezzonico

Giudecca Hilton FONDAMENTO CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO

CALLE

N

CALLE

TABACCHI

CALLE

C.

DE

SAN BOLDO

CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO

SAN POLO

CAMPO DEI FRARI

CALLE

San Barnaba

Madonna

MORI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

NUOVA

PRETI

L’ASEO

DEI

CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE

L

CAMPO SAN STIN

TOMÀ

CAMPO SAN ROCCO

DE

CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA

NA

DONZELA

CALLE

TINTORETTO

DEI

CALLE

FOMO

CA

LA

SAN

CALLE

CALLE

CAMPO SAN PANTALON

RENIER

DEL

A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA

DE OGNISANTI

LE

ALE

DE

PAPADOPOLI

TERÀ

Basilica dei Frari

San Rocco

Muneghete

CALLE

CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA

INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON

Chiesa di Ognissanti

FONDAMENTA

NIE

DD

Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

CALLE

CALLE

RIO

CALLE

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

le

PANTALON

San Pantalon

NUOVO

.DA

MA

La Maddalena

Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

L’ISOLA

OCHE CALLE

OCHE

LATTE

LACA

FONDARIA

CIMESIN

de

BASEGO

RIO

CAMPO DEI CARMINI

LA

DE

LA

CALLE DE LA LACA

LA

RAMO

CIMESIN

SAN

CALLE

Carmini

Santa Maria dei Carmini

À D E

SOTOPORTEGO

DE

C. CAMPAZZO DE

CALLE

Rio

SALIZADA

del

CALLE DE LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN BESAGIO

FO de Servi N

TER

C.

TOLENTINI

FONDAMENTA

DEI

Bacino

DE

DE LA VIDA

C.VENZATO

LA

CALLE

CALLE DELL'OLIO

FON.

Canale

TERA’

RAMO

CALLE ORSETTI

DE

TINTOR

BESAGIO

Misericordia

FO

RIO DIETRO TERÀ LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

DEL

SALIZADA

della

Rio

San Giacomo dall'Orio CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO CALLE

DEI

LIBERTÀ

VECCHIO BERGAMASCHI

SIMEONE LUNA

MINOTTO

Magazen

CALLE

Rio

DORSODURO

San Sebastiano SAN

CALLE CAZZA

FONDAMENTA

CANAL

LA

DEI AMAI

RAMO

Del

Rio dei Tolentini

FONDAMENTA

CALLE CONTARINA

BRIATI

CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO

CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN

RUGA BELA

BARI

DELLA

SAN

TRAGHETTO CALLE

CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL

CALLE SAVIO

RUGA VECCHIA

CAMPO

DEI

Angelo Raffaele

DORSODURO

Rio

CALLE

C.

NUOVA

CERERI

FONDAMENTA

LARDONI

Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola RIO

LARGA

PONTE PROCURATIE

DEI

CALLE

IA

CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA

DEL REMER

BIASIO

DI

BARI

C.

CALLE

LUNGA

Scomen

CALLE

RIZZI FONDAMENTA

FONDAMENTA

DE L’OGIO

RD

R

VECCHIO

RIVA

LISTA

San Simeone Profeta

Soranzo Cappello

DE CAMPO

San Nicola da Tolentino

Rio

PENSIERI

DEI FONTEGHERI

CALLE

I CALLE ORSETT

DEI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

ICO

NOVA

MISERICORDIA

SANT'ANDREA

FONDAMENTA

TERÀ

MADONA

SAN MICHELE

FONDAMENTA

della

CAMPO FONDAMENTA DEI MORI

ER

San Marcuola

CAMPIELLO

nde l Gra Cana Riva de Biaso

CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO

NAZARIO Palazzo FONDAMENTA SAURO Soranzo Capello GARZOTTI

Giardino di Palazzo

CASE CORTE

CALLE

C. LAVADORI TERÀ

TABACCHI

RIO

LA

MIS

RIO

NUOVE

CROCE

Giardino Papadopoli

PIAZZALE ROMA RIO

FABBRICA FONDAMENTA

DE

TA

E DEL PISTO

MUNEGHE

LA

CROCE

CALLE

CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI

EN

STRADA

DE

SPAGNA

FONDAMENTA

Ferrovia

CORTE

Sant'Andrea

SANT'ANDREA

NICOLO’ SAN

San Nicolò dei Mendicoli

CALLE

AM

CALL

San Leonardo

San Geremia DI LISTA TERÀ RIO

SCALZI

DEI Ponte degli Scalzi

FONDAMENTA

San Simeon Piccolo

Ferrovia

Ferrovia

LA FO.

TERÀ

MARTA

Istituto Universitario Di Architettura

CALLE SAN BASILIO

ND

I

EONARDO

SAN LEONARDO

CALLE TRAGHETTO

CALLE

CAVALLETTI

Santa Maria di Nazareth

P.le Roma

Ponte della Costituzione

RIO

People Mover Venezia

SANTA FONDAMENTA

MATTA DI CA’

CALLE CASE NUOVE

Madonna dell'Orto

MADONNA

A

Rio

LER

NA

AI

People Mover Venezia

S A N TA

CAMPIELLO LONGHI

CALLE

AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO

NS

DELL'ORTO

S. L R I O T E R À CAMPO

CAMPO SAN GEREMIA

PRIULI

Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia

ITTICO MERCATO DIREZIONE

SE

FO

ER LE P

SE

TRONCHETTO

CAMPIELLO P I AV E

FONDAMENTA

TA

Museo Ebraico CAL

A E M

CALLE

DEL

EN

CANNAREGIO

CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO

LL

NOVA

AM

San Girolamo

CA

ISOLA

TRONCHETTO

Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo

Sant'Alvise

CAMPO S A N T ' A LV I S E

ND

INE

DEL

ZZ

CALLE

PU

SAVORGNAN

MATTIA

CA

PISCINA

LE

FO

LE

O

SAN

DE

AM

L’ARCO

TA

OL

CALLE

EN

DE

AM

N G IR

SAN

ND

SA

Palazzo Nani FONDAMENTA

VECCHIA

TA

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5 STAR DELUXE (L) & 5 STAR Aman Canal Grande Venice Resort Hotel – San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo Baiamonte) • E4 Baglioni Hotel Luna – San Marco, 1243 • F5 Bauer Palazzo (L) – San Marco, 1459 • F5 Belmond Hotel Cipriani (L) – Giudecca, 10 • F6 Ca’ Sagredo (L) – Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99 • E3 Excelsior Venice (L) – Lungomare Marconi, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map Grand Hotel Dei Dogi – Cannaregio, 3500 (Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto) • E2 Hilton Molino Stucky (L) – Giudecca, 810 • C6 Hotel Danieli – Castello, 4196 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • F5 JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa (L) – Isola delle Rose – (Laguna di San Marco) • Off Map Londra Palace – Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4 Metropole – Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149 • G4 Palladio Hotel & SPA – Giudecca, 33 • F5 San Clemente Palace Kempinski (L) – Isola di San Clemente, 1 • Off Map SINA Centurion Palace – Dorsoduro, 173 • F5 The Gritti Palace – Campo Santa Maria del Giglio • E5 The Westin Europa & Regina –San Marco, 2159 • E5 4 STAR & LUXURY RESIDENCES A La Commedia – San Marco, 4596 • E4 Ai Mori d’Oriente – Cannaregio, 3319 (Fondamenta Sensa) • E2 Best Western Premier Collection CHC Continental – Cannaregio, 166 (Rio Terà Lista di Spagna) • D3 Biasutti Hotel – Via Dandolo, 29 – (Lido) • Off Map Bisanzio – Riva degli Schiavoni-Calle della Pietà, 3651 • G4 Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4488 (Calle Goldoni) • F4 Bucintoro – Castello, 2135/a • H5 Carlton On The Grand Canal – Santa Croce 578 • C3 Carnival Palace – Fondamenta di Cannaregio, 929 • C2 Cavalletto & Doge Orselo – San Marco, 1107 (Sotoportego del Cavalletto) • F4 Colombina – Castello, 4416 (Calle del Remedio) • F4 Concordia – San Marco, 367 (Calle Larga San Marco) • F4 Duodo Palace – San Marco, 1887/1888 (Calle Minelli) • D3 Firenze – San Marco, 1490 • F5 Foscari Palace – Cannaregio, 4200/1/2 (Campo Santa Sofia) • E3 Grande Albergo Ausonia & Hungaria – Gran Viale S. M. Elisabetta, 28 (Lido) • Off Map Le Boulevard – Granviale S. Maria Elisabetta, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map Le Ville del Lido – Via Bragadin, 38 (Lido) • Off Map Liassidi Palace – Castello, 3405 (Ponte dei Greci) • G4 L’Orologio Venezia – San Polo, 1777 (Riva del l’Ogio) • E3 Locanda Vivaldi – Castello, 4150/52 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4 Monaco & Grand Canal – San Marco, 1332 (Calle Vallaresso) • F5

Nani Mocenigo Palace – Dorsoduro, 960 (Fondamenta Nani) • D5 NH Collection Palazzo Barocci –San Marco, 3878/A (Corte dell’Albero) • E4 Palace Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4680 (Calle dei Fabbri) • F4 Palazzetto Pisani Boutique Resort – San Marco, 2814 • E5 Palazzo Giovanelli – Santa Croce, 2070 (Campo San Stae) • E3 Palazzo Guardi – Dorsoduro, 995 • D5 Palazzo Stern – Dorsoduro, 2792/A • D5 Palazzo Veneziano – Dorsoduro, 1413 • D5 Pesaro Palace – Cannaregio, 3935 (Calle Ca’ D’oro) • E3 Petit Palais Venice – Lungomare Marconi, 54 (Lido) • Off Map Principe – Cannaregio, 146 (Lista di Spagna) • D3 Quattro Fontane – Via Quattro Fontane, 16 (Lido) • Off Map Rialto – San Marco, 5149 (Riva del Ferro) • F4 Royal San Marco – Santa Croce, 578 • F4 Russo Palace Hotel – Riviera San Nicolò, 11/a (Lido) • Off Map Ruzzini Palace – Castello, 5866 (Campo di Santa Maria Formosa) • F4 San Marco Palace – Piazza San Marco, 875 • F4 Santa Chiara – Santa Croce, 548 • C3 Santa Marina – Castello, 6068 (Calle Seco Marina) • F4 Saturnia & International – San Marco, 2399 • E5 SINA Palazzo Sant’Angelo – San Marco, 3878/B – 3488 • E4 Starhotels Splendid Venice – San Marco, 760 (San Marco Mercerie) • F4 Torre Dell’ Orologio - San Marco Luxury Venice – San Marco, 288 • F4 Una Hotel Venezia – Cannaregio, 4173 (Ruga Do Pozzi) • F3 Villa Laguna – Via Sandro Gallo, 6 – (Lido) • Off Map Villa Mabapa – Riviera San Nicolò, 16 (Lido) • Off Map Villa Pannonia – Via Doge Michiel, 48 – (Lido) • Off Map BOUTIQUE & CHARME HOTELS TOP Ai Cavalieri di Venezia – Castello, 6108 (Calle Borgolocco) • F4 Ai Due Principi – Castello, 4972 (Fondamenta de l'Osmarin) • G5 Ai Reali di Venezia – Castello, 5527 (Campo della Fava) • F4 Aqua Palace – Castello, 5492/a (Calle de la Malvasia) • F4 Ca Maria Adele – Dorsoduro, 111 • E5 Ca’ Nigra Lagoon Resort – Santa Croce, 927 • D3 Canal Grande – Santa Croce, 932 • D3 Dei Dragomanni – San Marco, 2711 • E5 Flora – San Marco, 2283/a • E4 Heureka – Cannaregio, 3534 • D1 La Calcina – Dorsoduro, 789 (Zattere) • D6 Moresco – Dorsoduro, 3499 (Fondamenta del Passamonte) • D4 Palazzetto Madonna – San Polo, 2902 • D4 Palazzina G – San Marco, 3247 • D4 Palazzo Abadessa – Cannaregio, 4011 (Calle Priuli) • E3 Palazzo Barbarigo sul Canal Grande – San Polo, 2765 (Calle

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Corner) • E4 Palazzo Paruta – San Marco, 3824 • E4 Palazzo Priuli – Fondamenta de l'Osmarin, 4979 • G4 Palazzo Venart – S. Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron) • E3 CLASSIC Ad Place Venice – San Marco, 2557/A (Fondamenta della Fenice) • E5 Al Ponte Antico – Cannaregio, 5768 (Calle dell’Aseo) • F3 Antiche Figure – Santa Croce, 687 • C3 Antico Doge – Cannaregio, 5643 • F3 Arcadia – Cannaregio, 1333 (Rio Terà S. Leonardo) • D2 Belle Arti – Dorsoduro, 912/A (Rio Terrà Foscarini) • D5 Bloom B&B – San Marco, 3470 • E4 Ca’ del Campo – San Marco, 511 (Campo della Guerra) • F4 Ca’ Gottardi – Cannaregio, 2283 • E3 Ca’ Pagan – San Marco, 3268 (Calle delle Carrozze) • D4 Casa Verardo – Castello, 4765 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo) • F4 Charming House – Dorsoduro, 724 (San Vio) • E5 Corte di Gabriela – San Marco, 3836 (Calle Avvocati) • E4 Le Isole – Castello, 4661 (Campo San Provolo) • G4 Locanda Ca’ del Brocchi – Dorsoduro, 470 (Rio Terà San Vio) • E5 Locanda de la Spada – San Marco, 2488/a • E5 Locanda Fiorita – San Marco, 3457/a (Campiello Novo) • E4 Novecento – San Marco, 2683 (Calle Dose) • E5 Oltre il Giardino – San Polo, 2542 • D4 Palazzo Barbarigo sul Canal Grande – San Polo, 2765 (Calle Corner) • E4 Santa Chiara – Santa Croce, 548 • C3 Villa Ines – Via Lazzaro Mocenigo, 10 (Lido) • Off Map OUT OF TOWN 4 STAR & LUXURY RESIDENCES Alexander – Via Forte Marghera , 193/C – Mestre (Ve) Antony Hotel – Via Orlanda, 182 – Mestre (Ve) Antony Palace Hotel – Via E. Mattei, 26 – Marcon (Ve) Best Western Hotel Airvenice – Via G. Pascoli, 1 – Quarto d’Altino (Ve) Best Western Hotel Bologna – Via Piave, 214 – Mestre (Ve) Best Western Plus Quid Hotel Venice Airport – Via Terraglio, 15 – Mestre (Ve) Best Western Titian Inn Hotel Venice Airport – Via Orlanda, 240/244 – Tessera (Ve) Courtyard by Marriott Venice Airport – Via Triestina, 170 – Tessera (Ve) Hilton Garden Inn Venice Mestre San Giuliano – Via Orlanda, 1 – Mestre (Ve) NH Laguna Palace – Viale Ancona, 2 – Mestre (Ve)


AT THE EXCLUSIVE DEI TRE OCI, LUCA INVITES YOU TO Nell’esclusiva corniceCASA della Casa dei Tre Oci LucaEVENT Event propone

FEAST OFGALA THE CENA DI REDEEMER PER LA FESTA GALA DINNER DEL REDENTORE 14 2018 14 JULY LUGLIO 2018 A unique location Una location unica to enjoy da cui ammirare the spectacular lo straordinario fireworks display spettacolo pirotecnico in St. Mark’s Basin nel Bacino di S. Marco The eventsi svolgerà L’evento will be held all’ 01:00 dalle 21:00 from 9.00pm to 1.00am www.lucaevent.it www.lucaevent.it

Per prenotazioni e informazioni Booking and information: www.lucaevent.it 335 5950900 331 7570426

Casa dei Tre Oci

Casa dei Tre Oci Fondamenta Zitelle 43, Giudecca Vaporetto line 2 / 4.1/ 4.2 Linea Battello Zitelle 2-/ 4.1/stop 4.2 www.treoci.org Fermata: Zitelle www.treoci.org



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