Where Venice n 27 November 2018

Page 1

VENICE CITY GUIDE ®

NOVEMBER 2018

W W W.WHEREITALIA.COM/ VENICE

TINTORETTO 500

Two exhibitions pay tribute to the great Renaissance master

ITALIAN-STYLE GIFT GUIDE Our pick of the best seasonal trends

It’s ‘high water’ season in the Lagoon, but Venice’s beauty remains unscathed

Caution Wet Floor

SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS


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6

FOCUS

4

the guide

HOT DATES Museo di Palazzo Mocenigo

10 SHOPPING

Mask making is sadly a dying art in the city and the few remaining artisans ply a trade that has little relationship to plastic masks

BAGARON C A M PA LT O

MESTRE

20 DINING

23

10

DINING Glam

Located in one of Venice's few and most captivating green spaces, Il Giardino Segreto is a go-to destination for a romantic lunch or dinner

SHOPPING Ca' Macana

Parco San Giuliano

ISOLA DI TES

24 SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS

VENICE CITY GUIDE ®

NOVEMBER 2018

Contents

Exhibitions, tours and a documentary celebrate the 500th anniversary of the birth of Tintoretto, one of the greatest Renaissance artists and a true child of the Serenissima

ISOLA CAMPALTO

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S. Marco (Vallaresso)

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CAMPIELLO TRAGHETTO

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Palazzo Genovese

FONDAMENTA

SANT'A

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CA LLE

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DEL

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L’ARC E DRIO CALL

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San

RIDOTTO

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TREDIC

Rio

CALLE

MENTA

LO

VONI SCHIA

VALLAR

CALLE

FONDA

Palazzo Ducale

MO

CALLE

OTTI

O

SIONE

DEI CORTELL

RC

Museo Correr ASCEN

CALLE

LARGA

DEL TRAGHETTO

VAPOR

CALLE

CALLE

DEL

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MA

C. PIA

Palazzo Pisani Gritti

Santa Maria del Giglio

DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO

CALLE

C.

CALL

ETTI,

TI,

FA R S

LE

ZO MEZ

CALL

F. CONDULMER

FON. DEI TOLENTINI

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LA

DE

C.

CCA

E SBIA

CALL

I

SE

GU

RA

A RG LA LLE CA

I IN ZZ GA MA AI RO ET DI E

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

Basilica di San Marco

Palazz

LL

CA

O

CA

CALLE DEL FIGHER MARCO

CANONI DE LA

FONDAMENTA DEL VIN

O

ETT

San Moisè

SAN

LE CAL

CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO

San Giovanni No

DEL

CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO

SAN

Rio Del

ze ra

CALL

De

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al

an

C

O

TIM

RIT

MA

O

RT

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NE

ZIO

RE

CORTE NUOVA

A GIUFF

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Palazzo Querini Stampalia

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

RUGA

GIO ROLO DELL’O

EOL

ALL CAV

ORS

en

Santa Maria Formosa Pala Grim

BANDE

CORTE

EDIO REM

LARGA

CALLE

I BALON

O PELL CAP

E BIAN CALL

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DE LE

FRUTARIOLI

LE CAL

I HIER SPEC

DEL

A ENT

C.

DAM

CA

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

CALLE

E DEI

CA TAS

CALL

O

CORTE

C.DEI

PIA

C

CORTE TREVISAN

REMER

O SAT MUS

CALLE

CORTE TORRETTA

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

Bacino Orseolo

Osped

Basili Santi Giova

O DEL

LE CAL

DEL FORNO

RIO LO GAL SAN E CALL CAMPO SAN GALLO

BRI FAB

SARTOR

CALLE DEL PESTRIN CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

DE LE ERBE

San Giuliano

OLINA GRAG LE COLONNE DE

CARRO

CAMPO SAN MOISE’

CORTE BAROZZI

LIO

IA DAR SPA

À

PRIMO INA RAMOCONTAR CORTE

E’

LICINI

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FORNO

E DEI CALL

LE

AZZ

NO

CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

DEL

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

ERIA SEL CAS

DEL

FON

MOIS

SA

CORTE

LUCATE LLO MAR ZAR IA DEI SAN PIGN ZUL OLI IAN

DEI

NA

SAN

C. LARGA

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C.

LE CAL

C. DE LE COLONNE

C. DEL

PISCI

CALLE

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

DE

CALLE GABRI ELI

A

LI

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

DE LA FAVA

CORTE

CAL LE

TE

RLE ND

G. GALLIN

LIO

IVO RED

CALLE GOLDONI

LE CAL

IOL

XXII MARZO

CASTEL

SAN

BRI FAB

NA

LARGA

CALLE

CALLE DEL C.MAR PIOMB TINEN O GO D. PALLE

GIAZZO

CAP

EN

CORTE NOVA

LARGA

CALLE

I

CORTE GRAGOLINA

STR

ERIA

DEL

OL

AM

LLE BE

CORTE CORTESE

DRIO CALLE LE SCUOL

CALLE

DA

DEI

I

CALLE

AC

ND

ERI

E

CAMPO CALICE

IAPIE RA BALO TE

BOT

CA

CAMPIELLO STELLA

MAN

IZA

r

LE CAL

VERO

Sc

WID

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

I MIR

DA

GALIAZ ZO

C. DEL

SALVAD OR

MAR ZARI A DEL

do

LA

MICHIEL

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

FREZZ

CALLE

ITELL O CORTE C.DE TRAMONTIN L TAG LE

C.

FRUTAR

DEL

MINELL

CORTE

Santa Maria del Giglio

SAN

C.DE

CALLE

Teatro la Fenice

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

C. DEL

SABION

lva

DE

A DE PISCIN

LA CHIESA

DEI

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

N

DE

Teatro Malibran

CORTE DEL

MARZA RIA

Sa

C.

CALLE

DRIO

FO GA

VAR ISCO

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

San Salvador

ONA

CALLE

CALLE

RIO

CAMPO SAN LIO

n

I

ASSA TERÀ

RTA

Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

LAR

O

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

S.Canciano LE

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

ZEN MAGA

DEL

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

CALLE

SSIN

SAN

CALLE

NDE LOCA

San Fantin

R

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN

CAL LE

C O RT E B ATA G I A

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

CANZIAN A SAN

X

Sa

OPIA PISC

BON CAR

A LUC LE CAL

VER

om

LO EL RI E LL CA RO

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LO

EN

CO

AM

PIC

ND

ON

FO

SIM SAN ENT A DAM FON

ra ze en m Sco

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TIM

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MA

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CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

SALIZA

MAZ ZINI

CORTE

DEL

MARCO

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LE

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

FONTEG

PIO

Rio

DEL

RO TEAT LE CAL

LA

le

RAMO

RIOL

SAL

BO BEM

TEATRO

Palazzo Nervi Scattolin

OLA MAND

CORTE DEL

CAMPO MANIN

RNIN PATE

LARG A

SAN SALVADOR

LE CAL

E CALL

A

DE

na

FRUTA

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Ca

TERÀ

CALLE

DEI

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LE

CAN

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NER COR

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RIO

SAN

I

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CORTE DEL REMER

RIO

ETTI MOR

SI

TOS

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MAN

DEL

DELLA

DEL FORNO

Chiesa dei Gesuiti

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LE CAL

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DE

C. DEL

N

À

AVV

TER

LE

CALL

LE

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim

SALIZADA

CALL

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

SALI ZZA DA

RIO

RIO

CAL

CALLE

UZZI

E CALL

CAOTO

Canal Grande

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

CAPP

LE

STU

TEA TR O

San Maurizio

CALLE

CALL

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

CAL LE

CALLE

CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

E

NANI

E

ZEN

Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto

Rialto

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

San Beneto San Luca

CAL

CALLE

CATEN

CAMPO DEI GESUITI

ENTA

SARTORI

San Giovanni Grisostomo

Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)

Palazzo Grimani

nde

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

GO

DAM

REA

San Giacomo di Rialto

San Silvestro

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

VE

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

CAL

NO RAVA

DEL

DEL

ETA

RUGH

CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

GNES

ULI

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

SI

CAMPO PISANI

NO

RINA

SALIZAD

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

ON

CAM DEL PIEL SAN LO SON I

CAMPIELLO DEL SOL

Sant’Aponal DEL

SAN

IER

NT'A

PRI

HE BRIC FAB

MUT I

AMP ANE

Gra

BOT EGH E

Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia

ENT A

VA

ANG

CAR

Santo Stefano

San Vidal

CATE

FOND.

LE

CA’

C.

. NARI

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DAM

DEI

NE

TE

CAL

LE

ZIO

EN

CALLE

TA

CAMPO DELLA PESCARIA

ANI GRIM

LE

NO

CAL

RE

AM

FON

FOND

Santa Sofia

DA

CAL

DI

ND

Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana

E CALL

DE

RA

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

FOND

CRO SER A

ST

ZI

a

FO

ENTA

FON

PAR

LE

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

E UEL SAM

DAM

SAN

DE

DE

BOT A

DE L

Palazzo Loredan

C.SA

STU A

GALIZ

im

LA

DEI

ritt

DEL

C.

S.

FON

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

A

Ma

N

ZEL

ne

MI

CAMPO DE LA BECARIE

Palazzo Fortuny

DI SAN MARCO

S. Samuele

DEL PISTOR

IN

S.Silvestro

FAL

CALLE

OL

DON

DA IZA SAL

OZZE CARR

AP

CAMPO SAN BENETO CA LLE

CAL LE CA’ VEC CHI CORT A E LEZZE

Ca' Rezzonico

Zattere

Giudecca Hilton

DEI LAVRANE

DE

LE CAL

SESTIERE

Palazzo Grassi San Samuele LE

TR

LA

RAMO

IA

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Giudecca Hilton

LARGA

LA

CARAMPANE À

Sant'Angelo

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

E DE CALL

Abazia della Misericordia D

R

DE

Palazzo Giustinian Persico

S. Toma' SX

CAMPO SAN TROVASO

TER

al Can

E AI GESUA TI

FONDAMENT O BEATE GIULIANA CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO

CALLE

RIO

LE

LINI

CAL LE DE

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

San Tomà

ENTA

CAL LE

Palazzo Querini-Dubois

ZATTER

CHIESA

CORTE DEL TEATRO

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

MENTA

DELLA

L’AG NEL LA

CAL

DAM

RA

CAMPO APONAL

FONDA

CALLE

DE

FORNO

LON

ND

DEL

TE

' VE

DON SAN PER

CAMPO DEI FRARI

O

TA

San Cassiano

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

A

San Trovaso

IC

EN

ERA

PON

C.

CAMPO SAN POLO

Ca' Rezzonico

I

ER

AM

A

LET

Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione

SACCA

INI

RUG

SCA

CHI TODES

E AL

NT AR

GO RTE OPO SOT

DEL

ER

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI

BON

TER

DE INC INI

C. DEI

SANT

IS

ND

DE

CAMPO SAN CASSAN

SAN POLO

CALLE BERNARDO

FON

ZAT

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LE SAMUE

OGNI

DEI

RIN PEST

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NTA

C.

M

FO

CAL LE

TIOZ

Accademia

FOND

TA

Santa Fosca

CA’BCAL ONVLE

SERA

AME

LE

E ZANE

A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA

DE OGNISAN

EN

CA

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

A S. PISCIN

FOD

CO

d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro

CAMPO SAN TOMÀ

San Barnaba

NA

AM

CAL

E CRO

O

ND

E DEL CALL

L’ASE

CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA

TI

S. Basilio

TA

a de

TA

CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE

L

CALLE

SER

EN

San Felice

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

O

FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN

ENTA

OR

DO

DEI PUTI

IAN

FONDAM

NT

CALL

E DE

Chiesa di Ognissanti

CALLE DE LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN BESAGIO

TE

BOL

DORSODURO

IO

L

HETT

AST BESAG

EN

nn

rto

E DOL

CRO

NA

SAN

CALLE

SEB DA SAN

AM

do

S.Stae

TRAG

CALL

INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON

SPORCAE CALLE PAZIENZ DE LE

SAN

CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN

SALIZA

DORSODURO

DE

E DEL

SCOAZZERA DE LA E

LE PAZIENZ

A ENT

CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL

DAM

I

San Sebastiano CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI

ND

Ma

ll'O

AM

E TRON

CALL

Santa Maria dei Carmini

FON

DON

CALLE SAN BASILIO

LE

D

MADONA

NI

LAR

AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO

CAL

R

FOMO

CAMPO DEI CARMINI C. DE

DIA

Istituto Universitario Di Architettura

CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO

C.

CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO

CALL

TTO

I

ALE

CAMPO SAN STIN

ORE

PRET

E RENIE

DEL

FO

lla

San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale

CALL

TOMÀ

Basilica dei Frari

TINT

E DEI

E C A

FO

DD

DE LA

Car

RIO TERA’

AR

Angelo Raffaele

O

LE

LE

N

N

CALL

CAL

TALO

MA

Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

O

CAL

nde Canal Gra

GU

EN

del

OCHE

TTO

LLE

AM

min

I

Rio

TERÀ

SAN

CANAL RIO TERA’

CA

RIELO

LORENZ

CAL

RIO

San Rocco

Mu

SSA

ND

IAT

C.

MEZ

GHE

CALL

RO

FO

C. SAN

N

le

PAN

CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA

I

NTA

RE

LE

BR

E

DE

E

CAMPO SAN PANTALON

CALLE

i

TA

E LE

CALL

A

San Pantalon

O

o de

C.

de

A SAN

NUOVO

USE

L' ARZE

CALLE CASE NUOVE

OLO

SAN

San Nicolò dei Mendicoli

CAL

LAC

tini

RIO

CALLE CONTARINA

ME

TA DE

NIC MATTA DI CA’

LA TT

LA

SA

CAMPO SAN BOLDO

OCH

C.VE

LA

À D E

La Maddalena

CAMPO SAN ROCCO IZAD

Rio dei Tolen MENTA

LE

TRA

I

DA

AMEN

AMEN

DE L’OGIO

LA

CALL

FONDA

CALLE ORSETTI

NZAT

DE

FON

N

ete

SAL

RAG

FOND

FOND

CAMPIELLO LONGHI

DE

LA

IA ESI

O

BASEG

CAL

DEL

CERER

LE

DE

CIM

gh

OTT

en

DE LA VIDA

CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO

LE

DEI

DEI FONTEGH

CALLE

TA

FO de Serv N.D AN i IEL

TER

CAL

MENTA

FON

FONDA

ERI CALLE

EN

FO

RAMO

gaz

CALLE

RAMO

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

Ma

a

Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

San Giacomo dall'Orio

RUGA BELA

O

CALLE DE LA LACA

C.

DAR O

ne

ENT A MIN

Miser

icordi

R

L’ISOLA

CALLE CAZZA

CALLE SAVIO

CAMPO NAZARIO SAURO

TI

CALLE DELL'OLIO

MADON

LA

OT

ZO

RAM

CIM ESI

Rio

Del

DE

TOR

O

LE

DE

A A MART SANT

L

TERA’

I

TIN

CAL

PAZ CAM

LE CAL

RAM

DAM

CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

A

CAL

A CALLE

TA

NA

Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola

DEL

LA

E

CA

E

IO

LE

LUN

della

CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA

RUGA VECCHIA

RZ

AM

E DEL PISTO

DIETRRIO TERÀ O LA CHIE

CAL

I

LA

Rio

San Marcuola

I

CH

CAZZIO

TA PROC

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A phenomenon that reaches its peak annually in November to the joy of Instagrammers... but not so much for the locals.

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WELCOME TO VENICE

YOUR TRAVEL ING COMPANION SINCE 1936®

HIGH-QUALITY ITALIAN EXPERIENCE

www.whereitalia.com/venice

If you are reading this magazine, you are very likely to be a “High-Quality Traveler”. This is because you are using quality tourist information to guide you on your stay in Venice.

Via Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano. T: 02 349951 - Fax 02 33107015 info@whereitalia.com www.whereitalia.com/venice

This is because Where® is only found in the best luxury hotels in the major cities of the world. Your hotel is sure to be part of this restricted group of hotels. Just as you are part of a restricted group of travelers who stand out from the crowd. Who seek the best from every journey they make. And who usually have limited time available to get the best out of their trip. Two, three nights per destination. And the high-quality traveler wants to be sure of getting the most out of this short period of time. Andrea Jarach Publisher Where ® Italia

That’s why friends are needed in every location. To replace or back up a reliable source of tourist information. Where to go, what to see, where and what to eat, what shows and exhibitions are on, what museums to see in the short time available, and what you can find close to the city to enable you to understand Italy better. Where® was created for this very purpose (no less than 82 years ago!); still today, further enhanced by its digital editions, it remains the complete and reliable information source preferred by High-Quality Travelers. In Italy we are talking about approximately 12 million travelers each year, around 20% of the total. Some of these High-Quality Travelers spend more than €1,000 a day in this country, a huge market for those who are able to interpret their tastes and requirements. We have been doing this for almost a century now. Rely on us. For a high-quality Italian experience.

EDITOR'S TIP

11 MUSEUMS, 1 TICKET

Full price ticket €24 > This ticket is valid for: the Museum of St Mark's Square (Doge's Palace, Museo Correr, Museo Archeologico Nazionale, Monumental Rooms of the Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana), Ca' Rezzonico-Museum of 18th-Century Art, Museum of Palazzo Mocenigo and Museum of Textiles and Costumes, Carlo Goldoni's House, Ca' Pesaro-International Gallery of Modern Art + Oriental Art Museum, Glass Museum in Murano, Lace Museum in Burano and Museum of Natural History.

2  W H E R E V E N I C E I N O V E M B E R 2018

PUBLISHER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Andrea Jarach (andrea.jarach@whereitalia.com) EDITORIAL (PROEDI MEDIA GROUP) MANAGING DIRECTOR

Daniele Misrachi (daniele.misrachi@whereitalia.com) MANAGING EDITOR

Alessandra Finzi (redazione@whereitalia.com) MAGAZINE EDITORIAL STAFF Amal Angelotti, Carey Bernitz, Elena Binda, Romena Brugnerotto (tourist advisor, www.rominvenice.com), Simona P.K. Daviddi, Giulia Minero, Elena Peverata, Stefania Vida, Chiara Zaccarelli ART DIRECTION Elisabetta Giudici DESIGNERS Floriana di Maio, Joy Lacanlale WEB EDITORIAL STAFF Chiara Fonzi (redazione@ whereitalia.com), Fabio Lancini (art direction) ICONOGRAPHY Archivio Where® Italia, Shutterstock CARTOGRAPHY CITY MAP: © Where Italia srl. - 2018 Original Map by Urban File - www.urbanfile.or Fast Trains Network Map by Dmitry Goloub MARKETING & ADVERTISING Sieva Carolo, Isa Faleschini, Marta Mailhac, Rachele Renna, Paola Zannoni (advertising@whereitalia.com) ADMINISTRATION Katia Greto (amministrazione@whereitalia.com) PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION, SALES SUPPORT COORDINATOR

Paola Grilli (paola.grilli@whereitalia.com) LOCAL MARKETING Stefano Traine (T: 340 3026288) HOTEL RELATIONS MANAGER Maria Granata (maria.granata@whereitalia.com) HOTEL INFORMATION SERVICES Cristina Garbini (cristina.garbini@whereitalia.com) REG. TRIB. MILANO NO. 174, 28 JUNE 2016 WHERE® ITALIA SRL, ISCRITTO AL ROC NO. 20182 DEL 14 SETTEMBRE 2010 DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH

The Museum Pass is a combined ticket that offers access to all the permanent collections of Venice’s civic and affiliated museums. The Pass is valid for 6 months and allows one entry per museum site.

Doge's Palace

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Info & Reservations: www.visitmuve.it Call center 848 082000. From abroad +39 041 42730892.

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IN ITALY Where® is published in Milan, Venice, Florence and Turin by Where® Italia, in Rome by Tourist Media srl and in Naples by IES Comunicazione srl.

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Where® magazine and the where® logo are registered trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications.

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP EXECUTIVE CHAIRMAN William S. Morris III PRESIDENT & CEO William S. Morris IV MANAGING DIRECTOR EUROPE Chris Manning


[ SIGHTSEEING]

Top in town 5

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BASILICA DI SAN MARCO This is the most important Catholic church in the city, and one of the most important monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1000; inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. Map F4  PONTE DEI SOSPIRI A Baroque bridge that once connected Palazzo Ducale to the prisons. The Bridge of Sighs is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. It can be accessed when visiting Palazzo Ducale. Map F4  CANAL GRANDE Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the main waterway of Venice. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces,

churches, hotels and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima.  SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO The external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell of Palazzo Contarini - an exquisite, late Gothic building - is enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. Map E4  TEATRO LA FENICE Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries La Fenice theatre has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. Map E5 

CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE DI SAN ROCCO A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. Its interiors are filled with numerous treasures. Map D4

PALAZZO DUCALE A masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, it features a number of different and intricate architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it is superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. Map F4

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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES

Osvaldo Licini, Amalasuntha on a Green Background (1949). Collezione Gori-Fattoria di Celle, Pistoia. Photo Carlo Chiavacci, Pistoia. © Osvaldo Licini, by SIAE 2018. Below: Peggy Guggenheim at the twenty-ninth Venice Biennale in 1958 in fornt of a work of Osvaldo Licini.

ART

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THE MAGIC OF COLOUR AND SIGNS

Eleven exhibition spaces and over one hundred works explore the volatile and tormented SEPTEMBER JANUARY artistic career of Osvaldo Licini (1894-1958). A key figure on the Italian art scene during the 2018 2019 mid-20th century, Licini was the undisputed protagonist of Italian and international modernism who, following an initial period devoted to figurative art, dedicated himself entirely to abstractionism. The exhibition at the Peggy Guggenheim Collection showcases his art of colour and signs, expressions of power, desire, concepts and magic. Osvaldo Licini. Let sheer folly sweep me away Peggy Guggenheim Collection. Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, Dorsoduro 701 www.guggenheim-venice.it 4  W H E R E V E N I C E I N O V E M B E R 2018


MORE ON WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM/EVENTS Teatro La Fenice © Michele Crosera

OPERA

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STARTING OVER WITH VERDI

La Fenice, the “Gran Teatro” that rose from the ashes in November 2004 with Giuseppe Verdi’s La Traviata, kicks off today the new opera season with Macbeth, another melodrama by the NOVEMBER illustrious Italian musician that premiered here on 14 March 1847 to an enthusiastic audience. On 3 November, the first symphony concert of the season also pays tribute to Verdi with a performance of the maestro’s powerful Requiem Mass executed by the Orchestra and Chorus of Teatro La Fenice conducted by Myung-Whun Chung. Opening of the Opera Season 2018/ 2019 Giuseppe Verdi - Macbeth Teatro La Fenice. San Marco, 4387 www.teatrolafenice.it

NOVEMBER

HOT DATES Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating Italian traditions, art and music or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates.

COLLECTION

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BRUNCH FORM AND ESSENCE

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PANCAKES WITH A VIEW

Palazzo Mocenigo, Venice’s OCTOBER MARCH 2018 2019 Museum of Fabrics and Costumes which opened a section dedicated to the art of fragrance in 2014, is hosting a charming exhibition featuring a selection of 225 perfume bottles from the Magnani Collection. Divided into ten thematic areas (Chronology, Toys, Souvenirs, Techniques, Nature, Love tokens, Containers, Chatelaine, Tiny and Masterpieces), the exhibition takes visitors on a journey to discover an extraordinary artisanal craft that evolved over time thanks to the creativity and technical skills of its makers.

A magnificent museum, a NOVEMBER breathtaking view over St. Mark’s Square and a menu of tantalizing international specialties infused with Mediterranean touches. On the first and third Sunday of the month, the cafeteria at the Correr Museum offers visitors a chance to enjoy a delicious brunch at this one-of-akind location with an unmissable view. The cafeteria is open to the public, not just visitors to the museum, but once you’re here, we recommend visiting the ‘Printing R-Evolution 1450-1500’ exhibition, dedicated to the 15th century printing revolution in Europe.

Magnani Collection. Flacons Museo di Palazzo Mocenigo. Santa Croce, 1992 mocenigo.visitmuve.it

Brunch at Museo Correr Every first and third Sunday of the month, 10.30am-1pm Museo Correr. San Marco, 52. correr.visitmuve.it w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com  5


WHERE NOW | FOCUS

The season of ACQUA ALTA Elena Binda Lifestyle Editor Where ® Italia

6  W H E R E V E N I C E I N O V E M B E R 2018

We’ve all been enchanted by photos of St Mark’s Square emerging from the water. Here is an explanation of what causes this, and how to deal with a phenomenon that reaches its peak annually in November to the joy of Instagrammers but not so much for the locals. BY ELENA BINDA


PHOTO © TTL MEDIA / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

V

enice is famous throughout the world as a city built on water. It has canals instead of streets, islands instead of suburbs, bridges and vaporetti (water buses) and gondolas instead of cars. However, there are certain days of the year, not numerous, but certainly memorable, when the water reaches even greater heights. They usually occur in autumn, peaking in November, and are known as ‘acqua alta’ days. During these days, Venice is partially submerged for a couple of hours. Most of the time ‘acqua alta’ is only a mild nuisance, involving a few centimeters, or in some cases, about ten centimeters of salty water – nothing that can’t be overcome with a sturdy pair of rain boots. However, from an aesthetic and practical point of view, the effect is remarkable. Tourists usually love this phenomenon because it creates a fantastical, slightly surreal, unique and extraordinarily photogenic landscape. The city is filled with Gene Kelly ‘singing in the rain’ wannabes, intent on posing (and posting), whilst sending up sprays of water amongst window displays and lamp posts. The chairs and tables of bars appear to float as if suspended; the reflections of majestic facades are doubled, in short, it’s an instagrammer’s paradise! But how do locals perceive this phenomenon? Venetians, born and bred, living and working in the city year-round, are not as enamoured of the ‘acqua alta’ as the tourists. Although this phenomenon is not a danger to humans, it causes a number of disruptions; hindering traffic, flooding cellars and warehouses and damaging objects. The problem mainly affects shops in the centre because they are situated at the lowest point in the city so this area is most prone to flooding even when the

tide is not particularly high. As a result, shops in and around St. Mark’s Square are often equipped with waterproof bulkheads, designed to protect their interiors, in the event of flooding. But what exactly is ‘acqua alta’? Why does it happen and how should you behave if you run into it? A NATURAL PHENOMENON ‘Acqua alta’ happens when strong southeasterly winds, like the Scirocco, blow over Venice. When they reach speeds of over 25km/h the winds force the water in the Adriatic sea into the Lagoon. When this happens, the shallow basin of the lagoon is flooded with more water than it can contain, causing the water to rise and flood the streets and squares of Venice. The most severe flooding occurs when a high tide, caused by the moon’s gravitational pull, or the swollen waters of the Adige and Po rivers – both of which are tributaries of the Adriatic Sea – coincide with these weather conditions. A combination of all three factors, more likely during the rainy autumn months, gives rise to the ‘perfect storm’. High waters can register peaks ranging from 110 centimeters upwards. However, take note: this measurement only refers to an increase in altitude with respect to the average sea level, and does not indicate the height actually experienced by pedestrians. For example, a high tide of +100 means that there are only likely to be a few puddles. Furthermore, the streets of the city are located at different levels, meaning that even during exceptionally high tides not all parts of Venice are affected. Flooding can vary from a few millimeters in the city’s innermost ‘calli’, to more than half a meter in St. Mark’s Square, the lowest part of the town. During recent times, there have been several significant occurrences. Venice w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com  7


PHOTO © ANTONIO GRAVANTE / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

WHERE NOW | FOCUS

HOW TO BEHAVE Venice and Venetians are used to coping with ‘acqua alta’ and the city’s administration has implemented various measures to deal with it. When there’s a sea level forecast of +110 centimeters, the population is alerted by warning signals. At the same time, the city provides elevated wooden walkways in areas that are prone to flooding. Vaporetti continue working, although some lines may be subject to change. In any case, access to most of the town is guaranteed. In the event of an exceptionally high tide, generally starting from about 120 centimeters, you’ll need to wear a pair of rubber boots to get around the city. Though picturesque, walking around barefoot is not advisable. Although you’ll notice any number of tourists doing just that, the Venetians would never dream of removing their shoes during ‘aqua alta’. As previously mentioned, exploring the city during this time is a great opportunity to enjoy a truly remarkable landscape, but bear in mind that there are likely to be delays and long queues on the walkways are frequent. However, the good news is that it usually only lasts for a few hours, which is the time needed for the water to flow back into the sea. So relax, and enjoy the situation. Remember that, even under these conditions, it’s 8  W H E R E V E N I C E I N O V E M B E R 2018

necessary to respect the city. Both tide forecasts and a list of prohibitions and sanctions can be found on the www.comune.venezia.it website. Now that you know what to do, arm yourself with a smartphone or a camera. When the tide retreats, small pools of water remain in St. Mark’s Square, and in the ‘calli’ and, it is here, for the rest of the day, that that glorious Venice is reflected in all of its beauty.

When ‘Acqua Alta’ is a bookstore Initially, travelers only learnt about this amazing place in Venice via word of mouth. Later, due to its original setting and picturesque ambiance, it was discovered by photographers and the international media. Today, it’s a social media star, used as a context and backdrop for amateur photographs. It’s the Acqua Alta Libreria, a bookstore located in Campiello del Tintor, in a small courtyard on Calle Lunga

Acqua Alta bookstore

Santa Maria Formosa, just steps from St. Mark’s Square. With its piles of books, gondola and bath tubs used as floating furniture, stray cats curled up on top of the stacks of books, and the smell of salt water, its name translates to ‘bookstore of high waters’ due to the store being plagued by rising waters, which flood the floors of the shop each winter. Because this is Venice, what else would you expect? PHOTO © GAGLIARDIIMAGES / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

suffered its worst ever ‘acqua alta’, recorded by numerous inscriptions on the facades of buildings, on 4 November 1966, when floodwaters rose to +194 centimeters, causing serious damage. However, these episodes are extremely rare: +166 in December 1979, +158 in February 1986 and +156 at the beginning of December 2008. The most recent phenomenon of severe flooding dates back to 2012, when the waters rose to + 149 centimeters above sea level.

FEATS OF ENGINEERING For decades, Venice has been looking for an effective system to counteract severe episodes of ‘acqua alta’, like the disastrous flood that occurred in 1966. The latest and most controversial attempt is known as ‘MOSE’ (an acronym for MOdulo Sperimentale Elettromeccanico), a system of mobile barriers deployed in those areas where the lagoon meets the open sea. At present this is a work is incomplete.


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DEI GESUITI FO ialto Bridge is one of the ND M AM EN IN TA ZE most famous and widely N CA FO LL E photographed landmarks ofND. S.ANDR FO LA EA ND RG CAL A LE AM DE VOL Venice. Not only the undisputed EN TI I B OT TE CAL ER FO ND . icon of postcards and ‘selfies’, but CAMP O DE L NO CA E V SA RT O I RI E N IE LL VE ED LE ERBE R EL CAMPO also the oldest bridge in the city LA FO DE LA CARITA’ ST ND UA C A (until 1854 it was the only means ofMcrossing AL EN LE CORTE DEL TA San Felice BE REMER PR the Grand Canal on foot). Located in the RL IU CAL R IO LE D LI EN TER EL V DI O Llagoon mint was locatedÀ BatA Rits easternmost end. picturesque Rialto neighbourhood, it is a heady in the are sold, and the Erbaria, TO S whose BA F RUT RAMO A R IO DEL M CORTE DEL O RA In 1250, its wooden piles wereLreplaced by mix of shops, eateries and architecture, where vendorsPOZETO sell only the freshest, seasonal fruit DE ORO CAMPIELLO a mobile structure, a sort of drawbridge that the days are marked by the cries of the vendors and vegetables. DE LA MADONNA aro allowed larger craft to sail under it, and its name of its famous, bustling market and by the Although a visit to this market means elbowing ST CAMPIELLO CAMPIELLO Santa Sofia RA nazionalecomings and goings VALMARANA DEL PESTRIN D A of Venetians and tourists CA was changed to the Rialto bridge, possibly one’s way among throngs of Venetian shoppers, L C O RT E LE San Lazza NO derna Ca’ D’Oro VA B ATA G I A V Aof a traditional ‘osteria’ due to its association with the nearby district of RISCO the market nevertheless who are either in search boasts two gems of Mendica CORTE dei CORTESE CAMPIELLO STELLA and artistic interest: a loggia dating Rivalto, or ‘high bank’. or ‘bacaro’ for an ‘ombra de vin’ or a ‘cicheto’, or historic CORTE NOVA A dark period followed. In fact, during this time, looking to make a purchase from one of the Santi back to 1907 featuring a blaze of maritime Apostoli CAMPIELLO WIDMANN CAMPIELLO CAL the bridge collapsed and was damaged several innumerable artisanal ‘botteghe’ that line its ‘ c alli’ and symbolic decorations, including a number GAB LE DELLA CASON Cà d'Oro R IE L times. The daring but scenically impact-making and ‘campielli’ and flank both sides of the bridge. of esoteric elements thatI are mixed in with S.Canciano Ospedale SS. Giov CAMPIELLO Chiesa Evangelicanew design (1591) submitted by Antonio da the fish, lobsters and octopi sculpted on the N SAN CANCIANO D R IO C A L L AN E M LE Luterana ID CUO W Ponte consisted of a single 22 meter stone arch capitals ofSits FROM HISTORY TO LEGEND More attentive visitors Lcolonnade. E E LL CA CAMPO span, supported by a broad rectangular deck The history of this iconic bridge dates back to will also notice a marble plaque embedded S.MARIA NOVA CAMPO DELLA CAL Lof n Cassiano E L its red brick facades, which shows carrying two arcadesANof and ‘botteghe’ the year 1000 when it was built as a pontoon in one N ARG PESCARIA IAshops Z A G . G SAN C L L IN IZ A D A roadways. A fronting on bridge at the canal’s narrowest point. Due to regulations setAcenturies ago for minimum S A Lthree Santa Maria RI O DE increased traffic it was replaced with a wooden allowable sizes for lagoon fish. Basilica dei dei Miracoli CAMPO DE LA IM IR BECARIE San THE Giovanni Santi Giovanni e Paolo AC CAL FAMOUS MARKET bridge in 1181, known as the ‘Ponte della OL LE D CAMPO CAMPO EL F I Grisostomo ORN CESARE BATTISTI O CAL Currently Venice’s market par excellence, it isL E C A S T FOR SHOPPING Moneta’ both due to theGIÀ toll that people had ADDICTS SANTI GIOVANNI ELL DELLA I Teatrowhere Malibran PAOLOshopping. While VIENNA divided into the Pescaria, fish caught to pay when crossing BELLA it and becauseCAMPO the city’s However, Rialto alsoEmeans CA LL E SAN GIACOMETO LE ER BE strollingDE through the ‘rione’s’ tiny streetsChiesa or when dell’O C CORTE SECONDA DE AM L PIE San Giacomo DEL MILION SA L crossing its bridge, you’ll come across several L NS O BA RB AR ON di Rialto IA I unusual shops that are imbued with the Casa di CAMPO atmosphere of a bygone era. CAMPIELLO Marco Polo RIALTO DEL SOL Fontego NUOVO These include antique shops, artisans’ dei Tedeschi O AN workshops, old book binding shops where V CA C. D LLE nt’Aponal TA DEL RA EL F DEL C .M ONT E A RT P IO EGO books are still bound according to timeMB GH IN E Ponte U O NG R OD SA CAL . PA N G FO LE G LLE honoured tradition,CORTE and jewelry MPO di Rialto SALIZZ CORTE stores selling IA Z Z CAMPO IOVNDA O AN M TREVISAN CAMPO PONAL DEL NI AD SAN BORTOLOMIO A DEL VOLTO PRESTRIN from Murano glass PIO original creations made CAMPO X SAN LIO Rialto beads. On theCAMPIELLO other hand, those in search of San Silvestro CAMPO SANTA MARIA SAL IZ A DE FORMOSA an amazing experience, should head to the DA FONDAMENTA S SAN SILVESTRO C. D AN EL G L IO DEI PRETI ALIA ZZO old post office which now houses the recently CALLE LARGA SA Fontego CALLE LA Santa Maria C. LA RG RGA A CORTE DEL Santa Maria opened T Fondaco dei Tedeschi, a lavish, high- BORGOLOCO SAN LOR Dolfin Manin MA Formosa Palazzo ZZ Palazzo CORTE SABION CAMPO IN I MONDO della Fava C. DEL CAMPOIELLO DE LA FAVA end DEL shopping center and a magnificent feat of Grimani Rialto CORTE NUOVO CALIC Rava DE LA PASINA E MA RZA (Palazzo Cavalli) SAN SALVADOR o della Consolazione RIA architecture that has been updated to brilliantly SAN O E CORTE D SAL EZ A BAN VAD CORTE SC EM E LE OR RUBBI TA S.Silvestro LE D ED LICINI O balance the old with Palazzo new. The building CAL LL boasts a CAMPIELLO O A Teatro T C QUERINI SA US STAMPALIA Querini CA M marvelous terrace offering visitors a 360-degree LL E Carlo Goldoni San Salvador ED LL MA EM CA RZ CORTE DEL AR Stampalia EZ CORTEVenice. view over IA O DE TEATRO RO RA

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Ca' Macana

Masks and truth Despite the popularity of the Venetian Carnevale, mask making is sadly a dying art in the city and the few remaining artisans ply a trade that has little (if any) relationship to plastic masks. By Elena Binda

Y

ou say “mask” and the first thing that comes to mind is Carnival, the annual festivity that Venice celebrates in epic style. But the sumptuous balls and the costumed parades only tell a fraction of the history of the Venetian mask: an ancient artisanal product and an object inextricably linked to the culture of this city. Throughout history, starting from the year one thousand, different governments issued edicts regulating its use. A symbol of freedom and transgression, granted as an outlet and once-off release from the political system among the lower classes, the mask was used to hide prostitution, but also to protect the honour of married women attending performances at the theatre, creating an ambiguity that contributed to its appeal. 10  W H E R E V E N I C E I N O V E M B E R 2018

When used as objects, authentic masks are strictly made from papier-mâché (never plastic), hand painted according to a recognizable style and accompanied by a fairly hefty price tag. If you want to make sure you’re getting the real thing, head to one of Ca’ Macana’s two branches (they have two shops and two workshops, one in Dorsoduro and the other behind the Gardens of Ca’ Rezzonico) where, at the beginning of the Eighties, two former students who were avid fans of the ‘commedia dell’arte’ decided to resuscitate this age-old tradition. Inside you’ll find a real paradise of masks: to admire, to purchase, to watch being made or to personalize on-site. To give you an idea of its reputation, this is the place where Stanley Kubrick commissioned the masks worn in his epic movie titled ‘Eyes Wide Shut’.

>> www.camacana.com Dorsoduro, 1169 (T: 041 5229749) and 3172 (T: 041 2776142).


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/VENICE

The

Guidelines

This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. MAP LOCATIONS- Note that references in bold

at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 30-31. TRANSPORT-References to vaporetto lines and stops are based on departure from the Santa Lucia railway station. SHOPPING -Shopping hours are generally from 10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Venice) and on Monday mornings. Ask your concierge. Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.

»

Tips to purchase Murano glass In order to protect local craftsmanship and guarantee the authenticity of recently purchased products, in 1994 the Region of Veneto has created a trademark to guarantee that products have been made in Murano according to the traditional techniques used by master glassblowers. Management of the registered Vetro Artistico® Murano trademark is entrusted to the Consorzio Promovetro Murano, which boasts a membership of fifty companies, the only ones allowed to mark their products with prestigious label. Depending on the type of working process involved, the adhesive sticker can be either red or blue. It also shows the manufacturer’s identification code on the top. In 2016, a serial number and a data matrix code were added to the sticker. These serve as additional proof that the product purchased is a genuine Murano-made item. (by G.M.) www.muranoglass.com – www.promovetro.com

TAX-FREE SHOPPING

By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund. UnionPay Service Hotline: 00 800 800 95516 e-mail: europe@unionpayintl.com

UnionPay is an international bankcard association based in China and serves the world’s largest cardholder base. With more than 7 billion cards issued worldwide, UnionPay has become the mayor payment method of the outbound Chinese. By March 2018, almost 600,000 merchants in Italy accept UnionPay card for payment, among which 7,000 merchants are located in Venice. This allows hundred of thousands of affluent Chinese customers to shop with their favourite cards. UnionPay also actively work with famous retail groups, such as DFS Group, Coin Excelsior, Airport dutyfree shops, to provide special discount or services for UnionPay cardholders. DINING

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30€ or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. SIGHTSEEING

Information about our selection of museums and monuments is checked as carefully as possible. However, opening hours and site accessibility are subject to change depending on the time of the year. Ask your concierge.

Rocca 1794, quality and elegance Venice’s historic Piazza San Marco acts as the perfect setting for the elegant Boutique Rocca 1794. Synonymous with high-end luxury, Rocca is renowned for its expertise, timeless heritage and consistent pursuit of innovative trends. The boutique’s sweeping window displays feature a stunning array of fine jewelry and exclusive timepieces, carefully selected from among the best Italian and international brands, with a brand new Longines corner, featuring the luxury Swiss watchmaker’s most recent collections. Distinguished by their elegant décor, chromatic nuances and state-of-the art building materials, Rocca’s boutiques represent the spirit with which the brand has always embraced modern times: class and style blend with a harmonious, contemporary design, conveying a sense of exclusivity and aesthetic sophistication. Dedication and professionalism are the core values of Rocca’s staff who welcome customers to the boutique every day. Piazza San Marco, 125. T: 041 5284732. www.rocca1794.com

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[ FA SHION DESIGNERS]

Luxury Top Brands DEPARTMENT STORES T FONDACO DEI TEDESCHI—Tfondaco.com Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge) T: 041 3142000. Map F3 COIN EXCELSIOR—www.coinexcelsior.com Cannaregio, 5787 (Rialto Bridge) T: 041 5203581. Map F3

DOLCE&GABBANA—www.dolcegabbana.it San Marco, 2188 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5209991. Map F4 ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA—www.zegna.com Bocca di Piazza San Marco, 1241. T: 041 5221204. Map F4 ETRO—www.etro.com. San Marco, 1340 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5232599. Map F5

ALBERTA FERRETTI—www.albertaferretti. com San Marco, 295/296. T: 041 5220772. Map F4

FENDI—www.fendi.com. San Marco, 1582 (Calle Frezzaria). T: 041 2778532. Map F4

BALENCIAGA—www.balenciaga.com San Marco, 1310 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5230806. Map F5

FRATELLI ROSSETTI— www.fratellirossetti.com Campo San Salvador, 4800. T: 041 5230571. Map F4 • San Marco, 1477 (San Moisè). T: 041 5220819. Map F5

BALLY—www.bally.it San Marco, 4919-4921 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5285839. Map F4 BOGGI MILANO—www.boggi.com San Marco, 1744 (Bacino Orseolo). T: 041 2960321. Map E4 • Stazione Santa Lucia (Fondamenta S. Lucia, 20). T: 041 5246445. Map C3 BORSALINO—www.borsalino.com San Marco, 4822 (Calle del Lovo). T: 041 2411945. Map F4 BOTTEGA VENETA—www.bottegaveneta. com San Marco, 1473 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5228489. Map F5 BULGARI—www.bulgari.com. San Marco, 1494. T: 041 2410553. Map F4 BURBERRY—it.burberry.com San Marco, 2308 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 240291. Map E5 CARTIER—www.cartier.it San Marco, 1474/1495 (Calle San Moisè). T: 041 8842511. Map F4 CHANEL —www.chanel.com San Marco, 2070 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2405399. Map E5 CHANEL BEAUTY San Marco, 1254/A. T: 041 2708699. Map F3

FURLA—www.furla.com. San Marco, 4833 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 2770460.Map F4 GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani.com San Marco, 2282 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 8503048. Map F4 GUCCI—www.gucci.com San Marco, 2102 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2413968. Map F4 • San Marco, 258 (Mercerie). T: 041 5229119. Map E5 HERMÈS—italy.hermes.com San Marco, 1292 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2410715. Map F5 HUGO BOSS—www.hugoboss.com Piazza San Marco, 80 (Bacino Orseolo 1218). T: 041 5224378. Map F4 JIMMY CHOO—www.jimmychoo.com San Marco, 1289. T: 041 5224510. Map F4 LORO PIANA—www.loropiana.com San Marco Ascensione, 1301. T: 041 2770695.Map F5 LOUIS VUITTON— www.louisvuitton.com. San Marco, 1345. T: 041 5224500. Map F5

The ‘Ca d’Oro’ earrings by SALVADORI DIAMOND ATELIER reinterpret the interplay of the solids and voids of the fretwork decorating this Venetian Gothic palazzo overlooking the Grand Canal.

PRADA—www. prada.com San Marco, 1464/1469 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5283966. Map F5 RENÉ CAOVILLA— www.renecaovilla.com San Marco, 1296. T: 041 5238038. Map F4 ROBERTO CAVALLI— www.robertocavalli.com San Marco, 1314. T: 041 5299020. Map F5 ROCCA 1794— www.rocca1794.com Piazza San Marco, 125. T: 041 5201014. Map F4 SAINT LAURENT—www.ysl.com San Marco, 1302. T: 041 5202211. Map F4 SALVADORI DIAMOND ATELIER— www.salvadori-venezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Map F4 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— www.ferragamo.com. San Marco, 2098 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2778509. Map E5 SWAROVSKI—www.swarovski.com San Marco, 256 (Mercerie dell’Orologio). T: 041 5210618. Map F4

CHOPARD—www.chopard.com Piazza San Marco, 51. T: 041 5231883. Map F4

MAX MARA—it.maxmara.com San Marco, 5033 (Mercerie). T: 041 5226688. Map F5

CHURCH’S—www.church-footwear.com San Marco, 1316 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2410147. Map F5

MISSONI— www.missoni.com San Marco, 1318/A (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5205733. Map F5

CLARKS— www.clarks.eu. Cannaregio, 5586 (Salizada S. Canzian). T: 041 5229946. Map F3

MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com San Marco, 1471 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 8106066. Map F5

DAMIANI —www.damiani.com San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Map F5

MONCLER—www.moncler.com San Marco, 2088 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2960605. Map E5

TOD’S—www.tods.com San Marco, 2251 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5206603. Map E5

DIOR— www.dior.com San Marco, 1255 (Calle Larga de l’Ascension). T: 041 2411636. Map F5

MONTBLANC—www.montblanc.com San Marco, 2380 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2413747. Map F5

VERSACE—www.versace.com San Marco, 1462 (Campo San Moisè). T: 041 5200057. Map F5

12  W H E R E V E N I C E I N O V E M B E R 2018

SWATCH—www.swatch.com San Marco, 5022 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5228532. Map F4 TIFFANY & CO.—www.tiffany.it San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Map F5


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RAMO Mon-Sat 1.30pm-8pm. www.giovannazanella. cutting of the leather to the end creation. TA R IO DEL M CORTE DEL ORA L POZETO it. Castello, 5641 (Calle near Campo San Lio). T: CAMPIELLO Craftsmanship and Italian style are the hallmark DE ORO FO 041 5235500. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).DE LA MADONNA traits of Venetian shoe designer Michele De Anatema Ca' Pesaro N ST D CAMPIELLO CAMPIELLO A Santa Sofia Map F4 Fina. Open daily 10am-1pm/2pm-7pm. www. R Rossana Righini delights customers with her alleria Internazionale VALMARANA AD DEL PESTRIN CA A LL C O RT E micheledefina.com. San Marco, 318/A (Calle San Lazzaro E scarves, brooches, costume jewelry, bags, NO d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro VA B ATA G I A R VA IS CO CORTE Giuliana Longo dei line Mendicanti della Canonica). T: 041 3030189. Vaporetto hats and silk, handmade ties. Her windows and CORTESE CAMPIELLO A milliner boasting a longstanding family 1 or STELLA 2 (San Marco stop CORTE or San display cases express the owner’s philosophy: NOVA Zaccaria stop). Santi Apostoli tradition dating back to the early 20th century, Map F4 “The culture of beauty, the magic of elegance”. CAMPIELLO WIDMANN CAMPIELLO CAL Giuliana Longo’s fame has spread far beyond TI PASSION TIP AnatemaCà also stocks small L OZ DELLA CASON d'Oro ZI René Caovilla GABRIEELI the boundaries of Venice, thanks to her unique Murano glass jewelry. Open daily 10amS.Canciano Ospedale In the 1950s, twenty-year-old René started SS. Giovann C A M P I E L L O Chiesa Evangelica Venetian aesthetic. Her shop is the dream 2pm/3pm-7pm. www.anatema.it. San Polo, 2603. N SAN CANCIANO D R IO C A L L AN E working at family’s footwear factory, L E his Luterana SCU hat-cupboard of any true sartorialist, amidstLE WIDM T: 041 5242221. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Tomà OLE L revealing his talent as a ‘footwear sculptor’. CA old-world furnishings, original panama hats stop). Map D4 CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA BasedC in Venice, he has collaborated with CAMPO DELLA PASSION TIP and handmade headgear. The ALL San Cassiano E L ARG PESCARIA N ZI A N fashion houses of the likes of Valentino, Dior, A G N CA . GA only shop in town where Francis Model D A S A you can find authentic LL ZA LI A SA Santa Maria Galliano, Chanel INand is noted for the stunning R IO CAMPO gondolier’s hats. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Stylish, high-quality bags with a focus on colour. DE Basilica dei SAN CASSAN CAMPO DE LA I M dei Miracoli line of "jewel shoes" he co-created with Karl I www.giulianalongo.com. San Marco, 4813 (Calle Established in 1965, this small artisanal ‘bottega’ R BECARIE San Giovanni Santi Giovanni e Paolo AC CA C A LL Shoe-designer to the stars, A-listers OL Lagerfeld. LL E DE CAMPO CAMPO ED I L del Lovo).T: 041 5226454. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 diktats of FO R Grisostomo CA E C has always remained faithful to the NO CESARE BATTISTI CAL LL A’ LE C ED include Gwen Stefani, MU SANTI GIOVANNI GIÀ A S T who adore his creations EL (Rialto stop). Map F4 ELL TI Made in Italy craftsmanship. LocatedDELLA just steps I A BO Teatro Malibran E PAOLO BELLA VIENNA TA Robin Wright, Britney Spears and Sarah Jessica CAMPO from the Rialto Bridge, Ruggero De Zorzi devotes CA LL E DE LE SAN GIACOMETO Macrì ER BE TIP His pumps inChiesa Parker. PASSION Venetian dell’Ospe himself DtoCAMhis craft with pride and passion. CORTE SECONDA EL P San Giacomo This shoe boutique in San Marco - its other DEL MILION lace are truly iconic! Open daily 10am-7pm. CARAMPANE SA IEL L Open dailyNSO10am-7.30pm. www.francismodel.it. O NI di Rialtobranch is located in Frezzeria - has been a DE www.renecaovilla.com. San Marco, 1296. T: 041 BA RB AR IA DE LE TO LE San Polo, 773/A (Ruga Ravano). T: 041 5212889. CA Casa di RA reference point for discerning Venetians since the 5238038. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San MarcoMP O CAMPO AN Vaporetto Map E3 CAMPIELLOline 1 (Rialto Mercato stop). E Marco Polo RIALTO 1970s. Its owner Jacopo Nobili sells sought-after, Vallaresso stop). Map F4 DEL SOL Fontego NUOVO classic men and women’s shoes, distinguished by dei Tedeschi O N Giovanna Zanella VA CA RA C. D LLE their Made in Italy aesthetic. Open dailyC10amSant’Aponal EL E F DEL A D years, Venetian designer-cobbler .M A ONT For the pastGHten ET P IO EGO RT IN MB Ponte7.30pm. LSan EN O RU Marco, 420 (Calle Larga). T: 041 522 GO D. P SA CAL Giovanna Zanella has been creating exclusive N G FO LE G ALL S CAMPO di Rialto CORTE E IA Z Z AL CAMPO IOVNDA CORTE ON IZVaporetto O AN ME 9956. line 1 (San Marco stop) Map F4• D TREVISAN ZA CAMPO APONAL DEL NI NT ER SAN SAN BORTOLOMIO DA LA A lines of shoes for men and women at her P L DEL VOLTO PRESTRIN TE PIO RA DE CAMPO Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco Frezzeria, NO X E LL A workshop located just a stone’s throw fromRialto the Al Duca d'Aosta SAN LIO C 1583. T: 041 522 8997. CAMPIELLO PIELLO San Silvestro CAMPO Each pair is endowed with its own, SANTA MARIA Rialto Bridge. SAL Originally established in Venice in 1902, Al Duca DEI IZ A DE FORMOSA DA FONDAMENTA SAN SAN SILVESTRO C. D LONI EL G L IO unrepeatable personality because they are oftenC PRETI boasts stores in six cities across the d’AostaDEInow ALIA Michele De Fina ZZO AL CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO LE Santa Maria LA enhanced by a surprise element likeFontego touches C. Triveneto region: Venice, Padua, Verona, Mestre, LARG RGHighly select leather shoes, its owner oversees A A CORTE DEL Santa Maria Dolfin Manin MA Formosa Palazzo SAN LORENZO BORGOLOCO Z Palazzo of nylon, cobra heads, pistils or fringes. Open ZIN SABION CAMPO and Udine. The historical four-storey each from the I stage of the working process MONDO della Fava TrevisoDELCORTE

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SHOPPING Venice location features over 100 top fashion brands for men and women, carefully selected to offer its clientele quality and elegance. These include casual men’s lines for a sporty-chic look, sartorial designs for savvy-style gentlemen and women’s wear, featuring the iconic accessories of the latest collections, including small leather goods and bijoux, for a glamorous, cosmopolitan aesthetic. The store offers numerous special facilities and services for its customers, including a Personal Shopping service and Tax Free Shopping. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.alducadaosta.com. San Marco, 4945. T: 041 5220733. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Boggi Milano An easy yet sophisticated look for businessmen on the go, but, above all, a guarantee of style for those who appreciate quality. Boggi Milano offers garments aimed at a contemporary, modern and cosmopolitan man who is not prepared to sacrifice the classics of the male wardrobe: the suit, a second skin that is so comfortable that it can be worn on any occasion. Other locations: Cannaregio (inside the Santa Lucia Railway Station, Platform 6- Fondamenta Santa Lucia, 20) and Marco Polo Airport. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.boggi.com. San Marco, 1744 (Bacino Orseolo). T: 041 2960321. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

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Marina Rinaldi Renowned for its tasteful, plus-size apparel for fashionable women, Marina Rinaldi offers a wide range of collections, featuring both contemporary and classic lines that are updated on a seasonal basis. These include dresses, jackets, coats, bags, accessories for a total look that exudes class and elegance. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun and festivities 11am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm. it.marinarinaldi. com. San Marco, 5028 (Merceria San Salvador). T: 041 2770064. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop).

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Pot-Pourrì Three exclusive boutiques set against the magnificent backdrop of Palazzo Regina Vittoria in the heart of Venice. Pot-Pourrì carries clothing and fashion accessories for him and her, artisanal Made-in-Italy collections and a selection of international brands, skillfully mixed with the flair for which the brand is renowned. Couture dresses, handcrafted accessories and knitwear woven in cashmere, silk and natural fibers. The boutiques also stock a selection of accessories and homeware inspired by a classical contemporary aesthetic including knick-knacks and objet d’art for the home, bathroom and table (also ideal for wedding gift lists). Private boat landing stage. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.potpourri.it. Womenswear: San

Marco, 1810 (Ramo dei Fuseri) - T: 041 2410990. Menswear: 1811/m (Ramo dei Fuseri) - T: 041 5221332. Homewares: San Marco, 1820/m (Frezzeria) - T: 041 5201996. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 San Marco Vallaresso stop Map E4

DEPARTMENT STORES T Fondaco dei Tedeschi The recently renovated 16th century building that extends over 7000 sqm is a luxury shopping, food and cultural destination. Surrounding a central courtyard, the store offers the best in leading Italian and international fashion brands, accessories, jewellery and watches, wines and spirits, beauty and fragrances, food and a rich selection of local gifts. Don’t miss the specially curated cultural program on the 4th floor and the breathtaking view from the roof terrace. In partnership with Premier Tax Free, the store will also offer an instant detax at the cash desk when the payment is made by credit card, the first of this kind in Europe. Open daily 10am8.30pm. www.TFondaco.com. Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge). T: 041 3142000. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3

FASHION OUTLETS Noventa di Piave Designer Outlet With more than 150 stores, cafés and restaurants,

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SHOPPING visitors can find their favourite labels with price reductions of up to 70%, all year round, and further discounts at the annual summer and winter sales. From iconic fashion brands like Prada, Gucci, Armani, Fendi, Jil Sander and Paul Smith to sporting labels, like Nike and X-Bionic, and high-street favourites, like Guess and Desigual. Easy to reach from Venice via the shuttle service (available twice a day from “Venezia Tronchetto”, Mestre and Marghera), it offers endless entertainment, from the children’s adventure play area to restaurants and cafés and even an annual summer music festival. Facilities: ATM cash machine, cafés, restaurants, kids play area, baby-changing rooms, free parking, store map and guides, multilingual customer service, wheelchair accessible, free Wi-Fi, personal shopper (on request with extra charge), dogs admitted to the outlet village (admission in stores depending on the store policy), Tax Refund for Non-EU citizens and Currency Exchange on-site agency. Open daily 10am-8pm. www. mcarthurglen.com. Via Marco Polo, 1 (Noventa di Piave, 30 minutes from Venice). T: 0421 5741. Off Map

Palmanova Outlet Village Just one hour from Venice, Palmanova Outlet Village offers 90 stores with the trendiest brands discounted by up to 70% and open all year around: Adidas-Reebok, Aldo Bruè, Baldinini, Alberta Ferretti-Moschino, Calvin Klein, Fedon, Iceberg, Ixos-Malloni, Nike, Piquadro, Pollini and many others. Tax refund for Non-EU citizens. In addition to shopping, Palmanova Outlet Village makes you discover a land full of history and taste: the picturesque hills of the Collio region, the landscapes of Friuli’s Dolomites and the Alps, close to the Karst plateau with the historical sites of the Great War and the star-shaped city of Palmanova, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Open daily 10am-8pm. www.palmanovaoutlet. it. Take the A4 highway Venezia-Trieste and exit at Palmanova. Infoline: T: 0432 837810. Off Map

JEWELRY & WATCHES Audemars Piguet A must-visit stopover for luxury watch lovers. A purveyor of classic watches since 1875, Audemars Piguet is the place to go for elegant timepieces, made to the very highest standards. Open MonSat 10.30am-6.30pm. www.audemarspiguet.com. Piazza San Marco, 18. T: 041 5285519. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Cartier   In addition to its renowned collections of haute joaillerie, Cartier is also famous for its priceless timepieces, a perfect mix of design and technology, enhanced by precious metals and diamonds. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am7pm. www.cartier.it. San Marco, 1474/1475 (Calle San Moisè). T: 041 8842511. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

Damiani A reference point in the world of high-end jewelry, Damiani is renowned for its unmistakable style and innovative technical solutions, including its ‘a lunette d’illusione’ setting designed to highlight the brilliance of its stones. www. damiani.com. San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso).

T: 041 2770661. Vaporetto line 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map F4

Gems of Venice For more than thirty years, Gems of Venice has sourced the most precious stones, which are then processed at its workshop near the Rialto Bridge, in the heart of Venice, to become authentic wearable art. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-9.30pm; Sun 10.30am-2pm/3.30pm-6.30pm. San Polo, 1044. T: 041 5225148. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4

Nardi Venezia A combination of a love of precious stones and a passion for the art of goldsmithery make Nardi’s jewelry rare accessories to be worn or collected, the epitome of sheer Venetian elegance. Open daily 10am-6.30pm. www.nardi-venezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 69. T: 041 5225733. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F5

Pomellato Established in 1967 as an artisanal workshop, over the years, its contemporary jewelry has captivated wearers around the world. Pomellato creates highly sought-after collections featuring a range of stones boasting myriad colours and ultra-feminine designs. Open Mon-Sat 10am7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.pomellato.com. San Marco, 2031 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5231909. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Rocca 1794 The boutique’s sweeping window display, overlooking the famous St. Mark’s Square, host the collections of prestigious brands including Damiani and Salvini, but also the iconic models of some of the world’s most coveted high-end watchmakers including A. Lange & Söhne, piaget, Hublot, Zenith and Longines. Also particularly worthy of note are the splendid creations in glass handcrafted by Venini, unique artifacts that add a definite touch of allure to the space. Expert collectors or those who are new to the game can count on a service of excellence which entails full pre- and post-sale assistance. Other services include a full maintenance service with check ups and providing international certificates. www. rocca1794.com. Open daily 10.30am-7pm. Piazza San Marco, 125. T: 02 5201014. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Salvadori

ROLEX RETAILER Salvadori was founded in Venice in 1857. A member of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses, Salvadori purchases its diamonds from Antwerp and Tel Aviv, accompanied by the highest diamond quality certificates. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-6.30pm. www.salvadori-venezia.eu. Diamond Atelier Venice: Piazza San Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Salvadori Boutique Rolex: Piazza San Marco, 44. T: 041 2602313. Salvadori Boutique Panerai: Piazza San Marco, 47. T: 041 5200899. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

Tiffany & Co. Founded in 1837 in New York, Tiffany & Co. is a world-renowned jeweller. Since its introduction in 1886, the Tiffany ® Setting has been known as the ultimate symbol of love, paving the way for Tiffany’s legendary collection of engagement

Tax Free Refund Guide 1. VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a value added tax on goods and services, and is part of the European Union’s value added tax system. 2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a VAT refund. This refund does not cover the services supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies. 3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: • you are a non-EU resident; • the goods purchased are intended for personal or family use only and are carried in your luggage; • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds 154,94 Euro (VAT included); • the purchase is certified by an invoice. This invoice should include a description of the goods purchased, your personal information as well as the details of your passport or any other equivalent document; • the goods leave EU territory by the end of the third month after the month that you bought them; • several specific customs formalities are complied with; • the invoice is returned to the Italian retailer within four months after the purchase was made. 4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must be shown at the customs exit point when leaving EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items into your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs BEFORE checking in). 5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return the original invoice, regularly endorsed by the customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice must be returned within four months from the date when the document was issued. 6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian retailer (however, make sure that the shop you’ve chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax Free” sign in its window). 7. Several Tax-Free companies are able to offer immediate VAT cash refunds when the goods leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating the passenger from having to return the invoice to the retailer). However, this procedure only applies at major international airports or main border crossings. Most major department stores have Tax Free Refund offices. 8. The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply the payment of a small administrative sum which is directly deducted from the amount of VAT refunded to the traveller. 9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund within a reasonable period of time, he or she should re-contact the Italian retailer or one of the aforementioned companies. 10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded directly by customs offices. Source: www.agenziadoganemonopoli.gov.it/ portale/ee/citizen/vta-refund

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DEL

CAMPO SAN MOISE’

CORTE BAROZZI

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

CALLE

CALLE DEL FIGHER

CALLE

BALONI

CORTE TORRETTA

FREZZERIA

MOISE’

SA PISCINA

XXII MARZO

VENEZIA

NOVE

Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo

FORNO

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

TASCA

CORTE DEL FORNO

C.DEI

Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo

CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

DEL

DE LE ERBE

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

SALIZADA

FABBRI

DE PISCINA

LA CHIESA

DRIO

LARGA

CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

ZULIAN

ORBI

DEI

GRIMANI

CALLE

PISCOPIA

CAVALLI

CARBON

Salvador

CALLE

CALLE

DEL

CORNER

San

CALLE

CALLE

Rio

TODESCHI

CALLE

G. GALLINA

CALLE

O MUSSATO CALLE

San Giuliano

SAN

PIGNOLI

DEI

BEMBO

C. DEI

CALLE

CORTE MICHIEL

LUCATELLO MARZARIA DEI

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

San Fantin

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

San Gregorio

RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO

LICINI

MEZO

C.

Spirito Santo CALLE

DEI LAVRANERI

San Gerardo CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO

LARGA

CALLE

CORTE

RUBBI

DE

CORTE GRAGOLINA

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

E

CORTE NOVA

CALLE GABRIELI

DRIO CALLE LE SCUOLE

CALLE

CASTELLI

PIOMBO

D. PALLE

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

LIO

C. LARGA

CORTE

CALLE

CAPITELLO

BALOTE

GRAGOLINA LE COLONNE DE

GALLO

BERLENDIS

CORTE CORTESE

CAMPIELLO STELLA

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

CALLE DEL C.MARTINENGO

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

CAMPO

DE LA FAVA

CALICE

DEL

TAGIAPIERA

LE

BOTERI

VARISCO

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

MIRACOLI

GIAZZO

SAN GALIAZZO

C. DEL

SALVADOR

MARZARIA

CORTE C.DEL TRAMONTIN

C.DE

STRAZZE TERÀ RIO

CALLE CAMPO SAN GALLO

REMER

DOLERA

CAFETIER

Santa Maria del Giglio

CALLE DEL BASTION

FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

DEL FORNO

SAN

DELLE

SAN

Teatro la Fenice

Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

CHIESA

CALLE DEL NAVARO

SABION

C.

C.

O DEL

CALLE DEL

CAOTORTA

Santa Maria del Giglio

CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim

DELLA

SALIZADA

FONDAMENTA

DEI

CALLE

CALLE

CAMPO SAN LIO

C. DEL

CORTE DEL

MARZARIA

San Salvador

COCCO

GALIZZI

STURION

DEI

DEL

CINQUE

C.

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

CALLE

DEI

CALLE

CALLE

TOSCANA

MAZZINI CORTE

MAGAZEN

DEL

CALLE

CALLE

O

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN

CALLE

MORETTI

DE

DONZELA

LUCA SAN CALLE

MARCO

CALLE

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

San Maurizio

Canal Grande

CALLE

CAPPUZZI

SANTO

BIAGIO

DEI

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

WIDMANN

RIO

Teatro Malibran

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

X

SALIZADA

LARGA

SAN SALVADOR

TEATRO DEL CALLE

LOCANDE

PONTE

SACCA SAN

LARGA

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

C O RT E B ATA G I A

S.Canciano

SAN CANZIAN

FONTEGO

PIO

CALLE

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

Santo Stefano

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

CALLE

SPIRITO

RAMO

CALLE

LA

SAN BOTEGHE

CAMPO PISANI

CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

ZATTERE ALLO

CALLE

DE

LE

FALIER CALLE

San Vidal

FONDAMENTA

CAL

FRUTARIOL

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

CALLE

C.

DE

CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

Palazzo Loredan

CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

VENIER

BARBA

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

C. DEL

SALIZZADA

Rialto

TEATRO

CALLE ASSASSINI

FONDAMENT

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto

ORESI

nde Canal Gra

CROSERA

S. SAMUELE

SAMUELE

PESTRIN

CARROZZE

C.SANT'AGNESE

NANI

AI GESUATI

CALLE

SARTORI

TERÀ

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

San Giacomo di Rialto

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

CORTE DEL

Palazzo Nervi Scattolin

CAMPO MANIN PATERNIN

MANDOLA

TERÀ

RIO

CALLE

CORTE DEL REMER

RIO

SALIZADA

San Giovanni Grisostomo

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

SAN

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

DEL PISTOR

CALLE

ZATTERE

Zattere

VOLTI

PRIULI

NOVA

CAMPO DELLA PESCARIA

RAVANO

San Silvestro

Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)

CALLE

CALLE

DEL

LE

Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia CALLE

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

FOND.

FONDAMENTA

Santa Sofia

STRADA

DEI

PISCINA

CROSERA

S. SALIZADA

DE

CALLE

S. Samuele

Ca' Rezzonico

Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione

Giudecca Hilton

Chiesa dei Gesuiti

ZEN

S.ANDREA

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

STUA

PARANGON

DEL

RUGHETA

S.Silvestro

DEL TEATRO

CATENE

CAMPO DEI GESUITI

FONDAMENTA

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

CALLE

CALLE

RIELO

SPORCA CALLE PAZIENZE DE LE

LORENZO

FONDAMENTA

C. SAN

SCOAZZERA DE LA

LE PAZIENZE

Cana

LA

CAMPO DE LA BECARIE

CAMPIELLO DEL SANSONI

CAMPIELLO DEL SOL

Palazzo Grimani

NOVE

CALLE

CATERINA

FOND.

Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana

MUTI

nde

NARISI FOND.

VECCHIA

CORTE LEZZE

CAMPO SAN TROVASO

BONLINI

E

FONDAMENTA

SANTA

CAMPO SAN BENETO CALLE

Palazzo Grassi San Samuele

CALLE BERNARDO

FONDAMENTA

LONGO

TRAPOLIN

San Beneto San Luca

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

TRAGHETTO

CA’ RAMO

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI

Ca' Rezzonico San Barnaba

San Trovaso

OGNISANTI

CA’

BOTA

Sant’Aponal DEL

DEL

C. DE

DE

PONTE

LA

CARAMPANE

CALLE

DI SAN MARCO

Accademia

FOND.

ZATTERE

LE

Gra

Palazzo Fortuny

SESTIERE

CALLE

A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA

DE OGNISANTI

AL

DE

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

Sant'Angelo

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA

INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON

Chiesa di Ognissanti

FONDAMENTA

FODAMENTA

DE DE

CARAMPANE

TERÀ

CAMPO SAN APONAL

TRAGHETTO

CAMPO DEI CARMINI

Abazia della Misericordia D I

R

A

PERDON

DEL

Carmini

Santa Maria dei Carmini

CALLE DE LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN BESAGIO

DEL

CALLE CALLE

RIO

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

al Can Palazzo Giustinian Persico

S. Toma' SX

DORSODURO

BESAGIO

O

San Cassiano CAMPO SAN CASSAN

L’AGNELLA

Palazzo Querini-Dubois CALLE

del

RIO TERA’

L' ARZERE

GUARDIANI

DE

CALLE SAN

CANAL RIO TERA’

Rio

CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO

CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN

San Sebastiano

IC

San Felice

TIOZZI

DE

CORTE DEL TEATRO

CAMPO SAN POLO

MADONA

CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA

ROSSA

FONDAMENTA

RAGUSEI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL

DORSODURO

ER

CALLE

DEI

C.

SCALETER

San Tomà

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

BEATE GIULIANA

SACCA

FISOLA

LARGA

IS

d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro

CALLE

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

DE

DEL

DE LA

CAZZIOLA

Angelo Raffaele

SALIZADA

CALLE CHIESA

M

FONDAMEN

VENDRAMIN

S.Stae

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

CALLE CA’BONVINCINI

BOLDO

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

CAMPO SAN TOMÀ

CROSERA

FONDAMENT

VENEZIA

TA

TRON

SAN

C.

EN

CA'

FORNO

FONDAMENTA

LARDONI

C.

CONTARINI

dell'Orto

AM

DE

San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale

CALLE

DEL

TENTOR

MEZO

CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO

ZANE

RAMO

Rio Nuovo

BRIATI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

S. Basilio

DELLA

D

TA

TA

SAN POLO

CAMPO DEI FRARI

CALLE

Giudecca Hilton FONDAMENTO

CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO

CALLE

N

FONDAMEN

DEL

TABACCHI

PRETI

L’ASEO

Madonna

MORI

CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE

L

CAMPO SAN STIN

TOMÀ

CAMPO SAN ROCCO

DE

NA

Santa Fosca

CALLE

NUOVA

TINTORETTO

DEI

CALLE

FOMO

CA

NA

RUGA

SAN

CALLE

CALLE

CAMPO SAN PANTALON

RENIER

DEL

LE

ALE

FABBRICHE

CALLE DE L’OGIO

TERÀ

Basilica dei Frari

San Rocco

Muneghete

CALLE

CALLE

NIE

DD

LE

RIO

CALLE

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

PAPADOPOLI

DEI FONTEGHERI

CALLE

CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI

C.

DE

CAMPO SAN BOLDO

CALLE

CALLE DE LA LACA

le

PANTALON

San Pantalon

NUOVO

.DA

MA

Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

CALLE

CALLE

OCHE

LATTE

LACA

FONDARIA

CIMESIN

de

SAN

BASEGO

RIO

LA

DE

LA

CALLE DELL'OLIO

TOLENTINI

FONDAMENTA

DEI

DE

LA

RAMO

CIMESIN

SALIZADA

CALLE

DEI

FO

À D E

Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

L’ISOLA

OCHE

C.VENZATO

LA

CALLE

C. CAMPAZZO DE CALLE

MINOTTO

Magazen

Misericordia

FO de Servi N

TER

SOTOPORTEGO

DE

TINTOR

FON.

CALLE

San Nicolò dei Mendicoli

CALLE

Istituto Universitario Di Architettura

CALLE SAN BASILIO

DE

DE LA VIDA

DEL

SCHI

NICOLO’ SAN

MATTA DI CA’

CALLE CASE NUOVE

AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO

TERA’

RAMO

CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO

CALLE ORSETTI

TA

CANAL CORTE

LUNA

Rio

Del

Rio dei Tolentini

FONDAMENTA

CALLE CONTARINA

della

Rio

San Giacomo dall'Orio

RUGA BELA

TA GARZOTTI FONDAMEN

CALLE

DEI

LIBERTÀ

VECCHIO BERGAMA

SIMEONE

BARI

DELLA

SAN

TRAGHETTO CALLE

MARTA SANTA FONDAMENTA

CAMPIELLO LONGHI

CALLE

CERERI

Rio

La Maddalena

NOVA

CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

CALLE CAZZA

CALLE SAVIO

RUGA VECCHIA

CAMPO NAZARIO SAURO

DEI

DEI

IA

RIO

Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola RIO

I CALLE ORSETT

C.

NUOVA

FONDAMENTA

RD

R

STRADA

BIASIO

DI

BARI

LARGA

PONTE RIZZI

PROCURATIE

FONDAMEN

Soranzo Cappello

LA

DEI AMAI

RAMO

Rio

PENSIERI

FONDAMENTA

LISTA

San Simeone Profeta C.

DEI

FONDAMENTA

ICO

VECCHIO

RIVA FONDAMENTA

CALLE

TERÀ

MADONA

SAN MICHELE

FONDAMENTA

della

CAMPO FONDAMENTA DEI MORI

ER

CALLE TRAGHETTO

Riva de Biaso

CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO

Palazzo Soranzo Capello

Giardino di Palazzo

DE CAMPO

San Nicola da Tolentino

FONDAMENTA

RIO

LA

MIS

CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA

DEL REMER

nde l Gra Cana

RIO

CASE CORTE

CALLE

SANT'ANDREA

TABACCHI

FABBRICA FONDAMENTA

DE

TA

E DEL PISTO

RIO DIETRO TERÀ LA CHIESA

San Marcuola

CAMPIELLO

NUOVE

CROCE

C. LAVADORI TERÀ

LUNGA

LA

Giardino Papadopoli

PIAZZALE ROMA RIO

CALLE

CROCE

CALLE

Madonna dell'Orto

MADONNA

A

EN

CALL

EONARDO

SAN LEONARDO

San Leonardo

DEI

Ferrovia

San Simeon Piccolo

Ferrovia

Ferrovia

Sant'Andrea

SANT'ANDREA

AM

I

NA

RDIA

TRONCHET

LER

SE

S. L R I O T E R À CAMPO

SCALZI

Ponte degli Scalzi

FONDAMENTA

TERÀ

NS

DELL'ORTO

ER LE P

A E M

SPAGNA

LISTA TERÀ

TI

P.le Roma

Ponte della Costituzione FO.

RIO

People Mover Venezia

SE

ND

Museo Ebraico CAL

LL

MISERICO

DI

CAVALLET

Santa Maria di Nazareth

People Mover Venezia

S A N TA

CAMPIELLO P I AV E

FONDAMENTA

TA

Rio

LA

AI

Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia

ITTICO MERCATO DIREZIONE

EN

FO

DE

PRIULI

TO

AM

CANNAREGIO

CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO

CA

CALLE

TRONCHET

TRONCHETTO

Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo

Sant'Alvise

CAMPO S A N T ' A LV I S E

ND

INE

CALLE

ZZ

SAVORGNAN

San Geremia

CALLE DEI FUSERI

PU

San Girolamo

A

CAMPO SAN GEREMIA

SALONI

CA

C.

FO

LE

O

AI

DE

AM

ZATTERE

TA

OL

Palazzo Nani FONDAMENT

FONDAMENTA

NUOVE

EN

LLO

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

AM

N G IR

DEL

ND

SA

CAPITELO

CASE

TA

CALLE

FO EN

TE

DA PONTE

AM

B AT

DOGE

ND

Palazzo Labia Parco Savorgnan Salone del Tiepolo

CALLE

TA

QUERIN,

BECCARIE

EN

CALLE

LE

AM

CANNAREGIO

di Cannaregio

SEBASTIANO

FORNER

FO

Canale

CAMPO SAFFA

CALLE

BRAGADIN

DEL

People Mover Venezia

Parcheggio Bus Turistici

di Sant'Alvise

Sensa

COLETTI

ND

FONDAMENTA

SAN

GIOBBE

ISOLA DELLE TRESSE

della

CARLO

FO

A

San Giobbe

VENIER FONDAMENTA

NUOVE

Rio

Rio

FOND.A

Ponte dei Tre Archi

FONDAMENT

DEL SABION

PENITENTI

CANNAREGIO

CAMPIELLO DEL SCARLATTO

FONDAMENTA

LARGA

FONDAMENT

A

Monastero "Villa Groggia" Carmelitane Scalze

ROLAMO SACCA SAN GI

CALLE

Santa Maria delle Penitenti

CAMPIELLO DE LA LAVANDER

DEL

CORTE

F O N D A M E N TA

TA’

NOVA

FONTEGO

ER

RIO TERÀ CAZZA

B

ISOLA

LA

Parco

LI

SALITA

LA

NANI

EL

CANOSSIANE

Chiesa di San Michele in Isola

D

NUOVA ISOLA DEL TRONCHETTO

FOSCARINI

LE

FONDAMENTA

A

TERRÀ

VI

LE

ER

DE

B

TO

COLORATA

Cimitero Nuovo ORTES CALLE

VENINI

PAOLO

FONDAMENT

LI

O

MURANO CALLE

LA

CALLE DEL CIMITERO

EL

NICOLO’ CALLE SAN

D

del

LE

CALLE

A

Rio

VI

PORTO MARGHERA

CALLE

The art of solidifying silicon to obtain a hard yet delicate transparent material, suitable for countless purposes, is rooted in the ancient past. According to historians, glass was first made in Mesopotamia in the III millennium B.C. However, several archaeological digs suggest that glassmaking was already practiced in Venice in the 7th century B.C. Furthermore, after the year 1000 A.D., its production had become so important that it was protected by specific laws. There was only one small problem - the presence of glass furnaces in medieval Venice, which was largely built of timber, presented a grave fire hazard.

TORCELLO

ISOLA DEI LAGHI

FONDAME

home on the same day. Furthermore, each piece is unique, meaning that small imperfections are an integral part of the value of the object. In short, if you come across a shop selling mass-produced items that promises quick delivery times or tempts you with low prices, beware. Apart from some exceptions, it’s better to do your glass shopping in Murano rather than in the city of Venice. Don’t worry if you want to buy an object but don’t have time to wait: the island’s glass factories are now equipped to make safe deliveries anywhere in the world.

DI

As a result, in 1291, for safety reasons, the Great Council ordered the glass workers to transfer to the Island of Murano, where they created a district that still exists. It was here that in the 13th century eyeglasses were invented, and here, in 1369 that mirrors began to be produced. It was also here, in 1450, that Angelo Barovier invented crystal. Throughout the Renaissance, glass was a rare commodity. It was only in 1827 that glass began to be produced on an industrial level. At that point, blown glass or glass produced by lampworking became a highly prized material used for aesthetic purposes, and achieved the height of its splendor during the Art Nouveau period. Artists including Lalique, Dammouse or Tiffany sought out the glass blowers of Murano to produce their coveted objects. During the midtwentieth century, real masters of the art including Signoretto, Ballarin, Zanetti and Vidal began to emerge in Murano. Their works are highly coveted objects, true collectors' items that are often displayed at museums. While strolling through the streets of Murano, you’ll be spoilt for choice. If you want to make a purchase, bear several criteria in mind. Crafting authentic Murano glass is no easy task and isn’t cheap. Large objects require hours of work, so don’t expect to take you custom-made lamp

FONDAMENTA

Venice and glass: a strong, enduring partnership that has lasted for centuries. It’s natural to mention glass when talking about Venice. It’s the same as associating the city with the Lagoon, its colours and the plays of light that have served as inspiration for the most iconic creations by local master glass blowers.

C

ES

C

O

D

U

O

D

O

FAUSTA


ADVERTORIAL

VETRERIA DUCALE Located in the heart of Murano, an island famed throughout the world, Vetreria Ducale offers a wide selection of glass works created by the best 20th century masters as well as premium-quality contemporary objet d’art. Lighting, mirrors, sculptures, tableware and custommade items to suit individual styles and requirements. In addition to restorations, Vetreria Ducale also reproduces individual parts of antique objects. Worldwide delivery. Guided multi-lingual tours to the furnaces with glassmaking demonstrations.

Fondamenta Navagero, 76 MURANO Tel: +39 041 739922 | +39 041 5275284 fax +39 041 5276049 info@ducalemurano.com www.ducalemurano.com

VETRERIA ESTEVAN ROSSETTO 1950 Vetreria Estevan Rossetto 1950 offers a wide range of glass works and distinctive product lines. Created ad hoc, they blend to perfection with both modern and classic design elements. Chandeliers, mirrors and tableware: exclusive pieces skillfully handcrafted by master glass blowers from Murano, each item is made to order and customized according to individual tastes or designs. A team of expert multilingual staff is available to assist customers in their search for the perfect object and guided tours to the furnace can be booked on request.

Fondamenta Navagero, 50 MURANO Tel: +39 041 739329 fax +39 041 5274367 info@rossettomurano.com www.rossettomuranoglass.com More info: www.whereitalia.com/venice w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com  17


SHOPPING VENETIANS

Art galleries Is Venice really a place to buy objet d’art? Definitely! There are so many large and small 20th century and contemporary art galleries in the city that it’s almost impossible to list them all. Where® has selected a pick, renowned for their quality, tradition, or originality. By Romena Brugnerotto

Galleria Contini

Galleria Contini is a must-visit address for modern and contemporary art. Boasting more than 40 years in the business (it’s the oldest gallery in Venice), it exhibits works by important Italian and international artists including Mitoraj, Botero and Giuseppe Veneziano (San Marco 2288, www.continiarte.com). Other galleries, such as Luce Arte Moderna, are renowned for their display of works associated with the city (San Marco 1922, www.gallerialuce.com). Newcomers? Located in Venezia-Mestre, the D’E.M. Venice Art Gallery is a new, important exhibition space featuring a prestigious collection of 20th century masters including Vedova, Treccani, Licata, Guidi, Mirò and DalÍ. The gallery also hosts works by contemporary Venetian and international artists like Alexander Kanevsky whose imposing work titled ‘God’s Kingdom’ is one of the space’s major attractions. Ever-aware of the region’s cultural life and its artists, the gallery’s charismatic owner Elena Mangu offers a rich program of multi-cultural events and ambitious projects in the world of art dealerships (Venice-Mestre, via Dante Alighieri 8. www.demveniceartgallery.com). The new, 300 sq.m. space of Galerie Alberta Pane creates an artistic link between Paris and Venice.

In keeping with the space’s history as a workshop, the gallery encourages artists to give life to ambitious projects such as large scale installations (Dorsoduro 2403/h. www.galeriealbertapane.com). Among the new openings, the Victoria Miro Gallery has arrived directly from London to take up residence in the former space of Venice’s historic “Il Capricorno” gallery. The London dealer has brought several of the important artists represented by her to the heart of the city (San Marco 1994, www.victoria-miro.com). Located in the so-called Art Mile, in the sestiere of Dorsoduro which is teeming with museums and galleries, another must-visit venue is Galleria L’Occhio which, until 7 June, will host the works of Tobia Ravà, a Venetian artist renowned for researching the mystic currents of Judaism (San Marco 1994, www.gallerialocchio.net). Must-visit addresses for lovers of photography? The Ikona Photo Gallery housed in the picturesque spaces of the Ghetto Novo. Since 1979, thanks to its association with the Ikona International School of Photography, it has brought the best-known names in international photography to Venice (www.ikonavenezia.com). The ghetto is also home to Melori & Rosenberg,

D'E.M. ART GALLERY This vast, visually striking exhibition space was recently opened by its charismatic owner Elena Mangu. The gallery showcases works by 20th century masters and contemporary artists in suggestive settings characterized by the colour of its rooms and works. It is a constantlyevolving, multi-cultural, international gallery which also organizes collective and personal exhibitions. Off Map www.demveniceartgallery.com Via Dante Alighieri, 8 (Venezia-Mestre) T.: 041 981820 - Mob. +39 327 5803670

18  W H E R E V E N I C E I N O V E M B E R 2018

a historic gallery renowned for exhibiting the works of hyperrealist painter Luigi Rocca (Cannaregio 2919, www.melori-rosenberg.com). Fans of photography should also plan a visit to the Bugno Art Gallery that exhibits the works of well-known Italian photographers including Campigotto, Morucchio and Galimberti (San Marco 1996/d, www.bugnoartgallery.com). It goes without saying that Venice is one of the best places to purchase glass objects. Due to its in-depth knowledge of artistic glass, Berengo Studio 1989 has invited several of the world’s best-known contemporary artists to experiment with this material and create unique pieces (Fondamenta dei Vetrai 109/a, www. berengostudio1989.com). Other go-to spaces in the city include Caterina Tognon who represents the most important artists of Studio Glass (San Marco 2158, www.caterinatognon.com). Collectors of wearable art should head to OhMyBlue. This unique venue sells contemporary artistic jewelry, bags, accessories, everyday items, glass items, ceramics and porcelain, all carefully selected from the best international offerings available on the market (San Polo 2865, www.ohmyblue.com).


SHOPPING characters from the ‘Commedia dell’Arte’ for a trip back into 18th century Venice. The Mascareri have also worked for the theatre, the cinemas and fashion shows, and are considered among several of the most established manufacturers of collector’s items. They were the first mask makers to embellish their masks with decorations by Tiepolo. Open daily 9am-6pm. www.mascarer.com. San Polo, 80. T: 041 5223857 and San Polo, 2720. T: 041 5242887. Map E3

Ca’ Macana

Among VENINI’s masterpieces, these hand-blown glass ‘Monofiori Balloton’ vases feature a glass thread applied when hot on the upper part of the object. rings. Bold, modern collections, including the elegant, minimalist creations designed by Elsa Peretti and the brightly-coloured lines by Paloma Picasso, have made Tiffany a destination for those seeking spectacular beauty, style and the very best in design. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.tiffany.it. San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Vaporetto line 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map F5

PASSION SHOPPING La Bottega dei Mascareri The workshop of the Boldrin brothers specializes in the crafting of a variety of papier mache Venetian masks, including jesters, elves and

One of the oldest and finest mask making workshops in Venice for Carnival, theatre, film production and parties. Ca’ Macana crafts authentic handmade masks in the same way that Venetian artisans did 800 years ago and each mask is unique. Thanks to their expertise, they also hold conferences and courses on traditional mask-making techniques. Their masks were featured in important film productions including “Eyes Wide Shut” by Stanley Kubrick and in operas including those staged by the Vienna Opera House. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.camacana.com. Maskmaking and Courses: Dorsoduro, 3215. Showrooms: Dorsoduro, 3172 and Dorsoduro 1169. T: 041 2776142. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). Map D4

Ottica Mantovani Sun and prescription glasses, the most technologically advanced lenses and the most comfortable, fashionable frames. Managed by the Carlon family since the ‘40s, it is now run by the third generation of opticians: a reference point for locals requiring either prescription eyewear or sunglasses. In fact, one of the Mantovani’s most famous customers was Peggy Guggenheim. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-7.30pm;

Sun 10am-7pm. www.otticamantovani.it. San Marco, 4860 (Mercerie del Capitello). T: 041 5223427. Map F4

Ottica Manuela Located in the district of San Marco, this highend optician resembles an atelier rather than a shop. Renowned for its professionalism and attentive service, it offers creations that are real works of art. Its frames for prescription lenses or sunglasses make Ottica Manuela’s iconic eyewear real statement pieces that add a unique touch to every face. Open daily 10am-7pm. San Marco, 3145 (Salizada San Samuele). T: 041 5210268. Map E4

Piedàterre Tucked away under an arcade just steps from the Rialto bridge is a tiny boutique with an astonishing selection of handmade slippers, where Alessandra and Renato make and sell colourful ‘furlane’ (slippers), handcrafted with recycled bicycle-tyre treads, ideal for finding your footing on a gondola. Their creations are available in coloured velvet, brocade, printed fabrics or recycled shirting, provided by their customers. Highly original and absolutely unmissable! Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www. piedaterre-venice.com. San Polo, 60 (Ruga Rialto, Sotoportego dei Oresi). T: 041 5285513. Map E3

Tessitura Bevilacqua Artisanal weavers specializing in the production of exquisite, decorative fabrics for furnishings and curtains. A unique place! Since 1875, the company has practiced the art of weaving on original looms that once belonged to the Venetian School of Silk. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am4pm (Sat-Sun by appointment). www.luigibevilacqua.com. Santa Croce 1320. T: 041 721566. Map E5

The Merchant of Venice The prestigious stand-alone boutique of this brand which represents the ‘Art of Perfumery in Venice’ is housed in the former, mid-17th century apothecary of San Fantin, located just steps from La Fenice Opera House. Its neo-Gothic décor and ornamentation in walnut, wood and terracotta, reflect the typical style of ancient Venetian ‘palazzi’. The Merchant of Venice is not only a line of products but a wider project which includes a concept store in Murano, the Palazzo Mocenigo Museum in Santa Croce, the Spice shop in Ercole d’Oro (Cannaregio) and the World of Venice space at the Marco Polo Airport. www.themerchantofvenice.com. Open Tues-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. San Marco, 1895 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 2960559. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Venini

MARINA RINALDI Dedicated to celebrating the curvier female form through great-fitting fashion, style emblem Marina Rinaldi's is located at no. 5028 of Merceria San Salvador. it.marinarinaldi.com

An artistic space, where you rediscover all the elegance and sophistication of the exquisite creations handcrafted by Master glassmakers from Murano. A prime location for passionate collectors, or those whose want to further their knowledge about an entirely Italian art, Venetian glass creations, meticulously handcrafted by Master craftsmen. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.venini.com. San Marco, 314. T: 041 5224045. Other location: Fondamenta Vetrai, 47 (Murano). T: 041 2737204. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto or San Marco stops). Map F4

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DINING

Authentic flavours in a magical setting Located in one of Venice’s few and most captivating green spaces, ‘Il Giardino Segreto’ is a go-to destination for a romantic lunch or dinner and good food. By Chiara Zaccarelli

T

ucked away amidst the alleyways of Venice, the Grand Hotel dei Dogi is an oasis of peace and tranquility and the only hotel in the Serenissima boasting a private 2,000 square meter garden enhanced by winding paths, fountains, rose bowers and trompe l’œils of rocks, grottoes and ruins. Located in the historic sestiere of Cannaregio, prior to being transformed into a five-star hotel owned by luxury brand The Dedica Anthology, this 16th building was the residence of two aristocratic Venetian families and later a monastery. Aptly named ‘Il Giardino Segreto’ (The Secret Garden), the hotel’s restaurant offers guests a delightful indoor and outdoor culinary experience throughout the year. The menu proposed by its Head Chef Umberto Ungaro combines authentic Venetian flavours with 20  W H E R E V E N I C E I N O V E M B E R 2018

traditional Italian dishes infused with a touch of international creativity, deftly prepared using fresh, locally-sourced ingredients. Highlights include raw fish, typical lagoon-fish entrees, creamed salt cod with polenta, smoked burrata cheese and guinea-fowl roulades. In addition to a selection of original, beautifully presented desserts, the venue also caters to more traditional palates with a classic tiramisu. But there’s more! At the end of the evening, indulge in a cocktail prepared by Head Barman Alessandro Cara at the hotel’s equally intimate lounge bar. And if you’re lucky enough to return to Venice for Carnival, mark down this date in your diary: on 1 March 2019 the hotel offers the ‘Secret Chocolate’, an unmissable evening of period dancing and chocolate.

>> Il Giardino Segreto c/o Grand Hotel dei Dogi www.dahotels.com Cannaregio, 3500 (Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto). T: 041 2208810.


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/VENICE

TASTING EXPERIENCE Enoteca Al Volto Excellent wine accompanied by traditional ‘cicchetti’ and Venetian fish specialties, Enoteca Al Volto invites diners into its warm, welcoming atmosphere. €. Open daily 11.30am-3pm and 6pm-10pm. San Marco, 4081 (Calle Cavalli). T: 041 5228945. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Zaccari stop). Map E4

L’Aciugheta Its fame and fortune stems from a soft, 7 cm long “paninello” (literally, “tiny sandwich”), stuffed with butter and two “aciughete” (skinless anchovies in oil). Other must-trys include its meatballs, croutons, stuffed chili peppers and freshly baked ‘pizzette’ topped with anchovies. €. Castello, 4357 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5224292. Vaporetto line 1, or 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Osteria alla Rivetta One of Venice best-known, most traditional “cicheteria” (but also a trattoria for lunch and dinner), it is a go-to address for wine tastings. Open daily 11am-10.30pm. €. Castello, 4625. T: 041 5287302. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4

TRADITIONAL ITALIAN CUISINE A Beccafico Arte It offers several dining spaces and a small inner courtyard. Its typical Venetian ambience, is low-key, contemporary and elegant, blending to perfection with its Sicilian-style cuisine. €€€. Closed on Tuesdays. www.abeccaficoarte.com. Cannaregio, 2289/C. T: 041 2759220. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E5

A la Vecia Cavana Set within the picturesque environment of an old restructured cavàna (a typical sloped building used to house boats), this restaurant serves delicious traditional Venetian and Italian cuisine. €€€. www.marsillifamiglia.it. Cannaregio, 4624 (Rio Terà SS. Apostoli). T: 041 5287106. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map F3

Acqua Pazza Set against the magical backdrop of Campo Sant’Angelo, it offers a great ‘al fresco’ dining experience under the stars. This small corner of Amalfi in Venice serves an array of tantalizing dishes. €€€. www.veniceacquapazza.com. San Marco, 3808. T: 041 2770688. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).Map E4

Al Colombo A meeting point since 1986 for an international clientele, its menu maintains all the hallmark features of traditional Venetian cuisine. In summer, guests can dine outside under the romantic light of Venice’s street lamps. €€€. www. alcolombo.com. San Marco, 4619. T: 041 5222627. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3

Al Giardinetto da Severino Set against the magnificent backdrop of the 15th century Palazzo Zorzi, the restaurant is listed as an ‘historical establishment of Venice’ and its dining room still features a vaulted ceiling and a frescoed firedplace. Its menu offers the best of

traditional Venetian cuisine: baccalà, Venetianstyle liver, ‘granseola’, polenta with shrimp, a mixed fish fry with artichokes and seafood risotto. The restaurant offers a gluten free menu especially designed for coeliacs. Closed on Thursday. €€€. www.algiardinetto.it. Castello, 4928 (Salizada Zorzi). T: 041 5285332. Vaporetto line 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4

Al Mercà Highly sought-after, typical Venetian cuisine. Boasting an informal atmosphere, it is the perfect spot to relax with a soothing cocktail after a long day of sightseeing. €€€. Lido - Via E. Dandolo, 17. T: 041 2431663. Vaporetto 1, 2, 5.1, 5.2 (Lido stop). Map E3

Alla Madonna Established in 1954 and set in one of Venice’s most picturesque corners, the Rado family has run Alla Madonna since its inception. Its welcoming ambience, characterized by an ancient vineyard, provides the perfect backdrop for the typical regional cuisine served here. €€€. www.ristoranteallamadonna.com. San Polo, 594 (Calle della Madonna). T: 041 5223824. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E4

Antica Carbonera Homemade pasta, fresh fish and unusual decor: its interiors resemble those of the Miramar yacht that belonged to Franz Joseph II and Princess Sissi. A favourite haunt of artists, its charm and Venetian flavour have remained unaltered since it first opened in 1894. Standouts include its raw fish dishes and stewed cod fish with polenta. €€€. www.anticacarbonera.it. San Marco (Calle Bembo). T: 041 5225479. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4

Antiche Carampane A typical trattoria, in business for over a century, it has a friendly, convivial atmosphere. This is a go-to address for foodies and connoisseurs of fine dining. Its excellent menu, enhanced by the freshest, top quality ingredients is accompanied by an astute selection of wines. Closed on Sundays and Mondays. €€€. www. antichecarampane.com. San Polo, 1911. T: 041 5240165. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3

Antico Martini Located next to the La Fenice theatre, with its elegant dining rooms, welcoming atmosphere and attentive staff, the Antico Martini serves some of the best seafood in town. €€€. www. anticomartini.com. Campo Teatro Fenice 2007. T: 041 5224121. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).Map E5

Da Fiore A renowned Venetian restaurant that offers topnotch cuisine in a sophisticated, elegant setting. Thirty-five years ago, Mara and Maurizio Martin transformed an old osteria into one of the city’s most famous restaurants. Impeccable service and superlative Venetian dishes composed of carefully selected seasonal ingredients have made Da Fiore a must-visit destination. Closed on Mondays. €€€. www.dafiore.net. San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3

Gran Canal Here you can taste the typical specialties of Venetian tradition, featuring the purest expression of taste and harmony. The restaurant’s main focus is on seafood and vegetables. Don’t miss a dinner on its evocative terrace: the restaurant faces directly onto the Grand Canal offering diners an excellent opportunity to combine the pleasures of the palate with a stunning view over Venice’s lagoon. Open: lunch 12.30pm-2.30pm, dinner 7.30pm-11.30pm €€€. www.hotelmonaco.it. c/o Hotel Monaco&Gran Canal. San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Map F5

Harry’s Bar Founded in the 1930s, this legendary bar is renowned for its Bellini cocktails (originally invented here) and for being the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of almost every famous name to visit Venice. Today, It is still a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice, a perfect opportunity to step back in time and savour its slightly retro and incredibly fascinating atmosphere. www. harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco, 1323 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto 1 (Rialto stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

Il Nuovo Galeon Located on via Garibaldi, near the Giardini della Biennale and just behind the Arsenal, this restaurant is mainly frequented by Venetians. A typical, family-run restaurant with an outdoor terrace (summer), its attractive interior is characterized by typical nautical décor, including the hull of a ‘bragozzo’, a typical fishing boat built by Crea, the famous Venetian rowing champion. €€€. www.ilnuovogaleon.com. Castello, 1308, T: 041 5204656. Vaporetto 5.1 or 5.2 (Giardini stop). Map H5

Antico Pignolo The hand of owner Eligio Paties, is apparent in its beautifully laid tables and impeccable service. The traditional Venetian menu is accompanied by a well-stocked cellar boasting more than 900 labels from all over the world. €€€. www.anticopignolo.com. San Marco, 451 (Calle degli Specchieri). T: 041 5228123. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

From the menu of AL GIARDINETTO DA SEVERINO, these ‘Spaghetti alle vongole veraci’ are an expression of authentic Venetian cuisine based on the use of locally sourced ingredients.

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MICHELIN-STARRED RESTAURANTS La Calcina

Are you in search of a real Venetian tasting experience? Where® brings you a round-up of Michelin-starred restaurants for true connoisseurs of taste! By Stefania Vida

Take a seat at its welcoming indoor dining room, or on the magnificent panoramic terrace overlooking the Giudecca Canal. At La Calcina you can savour traditional Venetian and Mediterranean dishes paired with wines selected from amongst the best Italian labels. Vegetarian meals are also served. €€€. www.lacalcina.com. c/o Hotel La Calcina. Dorsoduro, 780 (Zattere). T: 041 5206466. Vaporetto line 2 or 5.1 (Zattere stop). Map E6

La Conca d’Oro Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, La Conca d’Oro was established by Sicilian brothers Giuseppe and Giovanni Costa, the founders of the first pizzeria in Northern Italy. Since that time, this Venetian institution has been turning out some of the best pizza in town. € (pizzeria) - €€€ (restaurant). www.concadorovenice.com. Castello, 4338 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5229293. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 , 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Dopolavoro Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco. T: 041 8521300 www.jwvenice.com Aptly named ‘Dopolavoro’, which means after work. The renowned name of Giancarlo Perbellini is behind this new restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private island - the Isola delle Rose, right out in the Venetian lagoon. After a day of business meetings or exploring Venice, enjoy delicious gourmet recipes with an individual flavour and skilful light touch - the true mark of a great chef. Off Map Glam c/o Palazzo Venart. Santa Croce, 1961. T: 041 5235676 www.palazzovenart.com/en/restaurant-bar Set within a secluded corner of Venice and located in a prime position overlooking the Grand Canal, the Glam is situated inside Palazzo Venart. The brainchild behind its menu is Enrico Bartolini, Italy’s youngest chef. Helmed by resident chef Donato Ascani, the restaurant serves traditional Venetian dishes upgraded with a futuristic twist and enriched with contemporary pairings that intensify the fabulous flavours of the Lagoon. Glam can host up to 40 guests indoors or al fresco. Map E3 Il Ridotto Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo, 4509. T: 041 5208280 www.ilridotto.com Located just steps from San Marco, Il Ridotto, 'reduced' in Italian, refers to the size of this tiny, gracious restaurant. The innovative menu employing traditional elements is revised daily, with the offerings tending toward lighter, but wonderfully tasty versions of classic dishes. A particular characteristic? It only has 9 tables. Map F4 Met Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149. T: 041 5240034 www.hotelmetropole.com Located inside the Metropole hotel, the Met Restaurant is a pioneer of a new concept targeted at promoting the Italian region. Its menu features recipes based on traditional Italian gastronomy served in two versions: either classical or upgraded with a creative twist, served in unusual but never excessive combinations. Its carefully prepared dishes are full of flavour and presented in a bright, colourful way. Map G4 22  W H E R E V E N I C E I N O V E M B E R 2018

Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801 www.belmond.com A jewel in the crown of Belmond Hotel Cipriani, experience Venice’s top taste sensation at this enchanting Michelin-starred restaurant. Oro reflects the romantic spirit of Venice: take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant draws its name, and try the specialities inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6 Osteria da Fiore San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308 www.dafiore.net An Osteria only by name because this is actually an elegant, starred restaurant. Its cuisine ranges from the most authentic traditional flavours interpreted in a modern-day key (meaning that offerings tend to be lighter) to more unusual dishes invented by the chef, intended to be as close to nature as possible thanks to a great selection of highly sought-after seasonal ingredients. Ask for a wine recommendation from its excellent wine list which also features several international labels. Map E3 Quadri Piazza San Marco, 121. T: 041 5222105 www.alajmo.it A real institution of Venetian taste, starting from its decor. The restaurant – with the Quadrino and Grancaffè Quadri on the ground floor – has recently reopened after a major restoration by Philippe Stark: triumph of stucco, Murano glass and precious fabrics housed in one of the most photographed ‘palazzi’ in the city. Its menu features intriguing, creative dishes that are beautifully presented... without forgetting its spectacular view over piazza San Marco. Map F4 Venissa Fondamenta S. Caterina, 3 (Mazzorbo). T: 041 5272281 www.venissa.it On the one hand its vegetable gardens and vineyards, and, on the other, its cuisine featuring an intoxicating meld of locally sourced ingredients. Its bucolic surroundings serve as the ideal backdrop to its authentic, typically Venetian cuisine lovingly prepared by its four chefs who only use fresh, seasonal ingredients. Off Map

La Piscina Take a seat at its welcoming indoor dining room, or on the magnificent panoramic terrace overlooking the Giudecca Canal. At La Piscina you can savour traditional Venetian and Mediterranean dishes paired with wines selected from amongst the best Italian labels. Vegetarian meals are also served. €€€. www.lacalcina.com. c/o Hotel La Calcina. Dorsoduro, 780 (Zattere). T: 041 5206466. Vaporetto line 2 or 5.1 (Zattere stop). Map E6

La Porta d’Acqua Set just steps from the Rialto Bridge, the restaurant is housed in a 15th century building and decorated with original frescoes dating back to 1700. Its cuisine conjures up the aroma of authentic Neapolitan cuisine, thanks to ingredients sourced exclusively from Campani. €€€. www. laportadacqua.it. San Polo, 1022/b (Rio Terà San Silvestro). T: 041 2412124. Vaporetto 1 (San Silvestro stop). Map E4

Lineadombra Perched on the last bridge of the most beautiful promenade in Venice, le Zattere, this is the perfect spot for a romantic dinner where you can enjoy all the typical flavours of the Venetian lagoon. €€€. www.ristorantelineadombra.com. Dorsoduro, 19. T: 041 2411881. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Zattere stop) or 1 (Salute stop). Map E5

Trattoria Do Forni The owner Eligio Paties has managed to make this restaurant a sought-after destination, distinguished by its wide assortment of Venetian fare, thanks to the quality of the dishes and a genuine sense of typically Venetian hospitality. The dining spaces will remind you of the carriages of the legendary “Orient Express” and pay tribute to the history of Venice. €€€. www.doforni.it. San Marco, 468 (Calle dei Specchieri). T: 041 5232148. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4

Wildner Opened by the Fullin family in 1960, it is patronized by locals and tourists alike. Its tranquil, relaxed atmosphere is further enhanced by a spectacular view over the Basin of St. Mark’s. Its menu is mainly fish-based and serves classic Venetian specialties including ‘Baccalà Mantecato’ and ‘Sarde in Saor’. Closed on Tuesdays. €€€. c/o Pensione Wildner. Castello, 4161. T: 041 5227463. Vaporetto line 4.1 or 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4


DINING

Top hotel restaurants Where® highlights some culinary destinations to whet your appetite at several top hotels in Venice. By Stefania Vida

L’Alcova c/o Ca’ Sagredo Hotel. www.casagredohotel.com Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99. T: 041 2413111. Boasting a magnificent panoramic terrace over the Grand Canal and in front of the historic Rialto Market, it is ‘the’ temple of traditional Venetian cuisine for real connoisseurs. Map E3

Glam Acquerello c/o S. Clemente Palace Kempinski. www.kempinski.com Isola di San Clemente, 1. T: 041 4750111. Italian and Venetian tradition with creative and surprising combinations. Its view is as breathtaking as its food: the restaurant boasts a large terrace. Off Map Aman Venice Restaurant c/o Hotel Aman Venice. www.aman.com Palazzo Papadopoli. San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo). T: 041 2707333. A delightfully unique menu, thanks to several specialties created by starred Milanese chef Davide Oldani. Map E4 Antinoo’s c/o Centurion Palace Venezia. www.sinahotels.com Dorsoduro, 173. T: 041 34281. In addition to the à la carte menu you can also choose from a selection of typical gourmet Venetian dishes. Map E5 Aromi c/o Hilton Molino Stucky. www.molinostuckyhilton.it Giudecca, 810. T: 041 2723311. Here you can taste authentic Mediterranean cuisine. Summer terrace with a fabulous view over Venice and the Giudecca Canal. Map C6 Canova c/o Baglioni Hotel Luna. www.baglionihotels.com San Marco, 1243. T: 041 5289840. Menus and tastings featuring the best of traditional Venetian cuisine. All dishes are made using only the freshest, high-quality ingredients. Map F5 Club del Doge c/o The Gritti Palace. www.clubdeldoge.com Campo Santa Maria del Giglio. T: 041 794611. A welcoming ambience and authentic upscale cuisine make each culinary experience a truly special one. Map E5

De Pisis c/o Hotel Bauer Palazzo. www.bauervenezia.com San Marco, 1413/d. T: 041 5207022. For a romantic canal side dinner, set against the backdrop of the historic Basilica della Salute. Map F5 Do Leoni c/o Hotel Londra Palace. www.londrapalace.com Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni). T: 041 5200533. It combines the traditions of Venetian fare with more creative dishes Two atmospheric dining spaces: an indoor dining room and its summer Veranda. Map G4 Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa. www.jwvenice.com Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco. T: 041 8521300 The renowned name of Giancarlo Perbellini is behind this restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private island. Off Map Glam c/o Palazzo Venart. www.palazzovenart.com Santa Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron). T: 041 5233784. Chef Enrico Bartolini offers an interpretation of contemporary Italian cuisine and research-based use of locally-sourced Venetian ingredients. Map E3 Grand Canal c/o Hotel Monaco & Grand Canal San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. www.hotelmonaco.it A meeting place for gurus of the world of economy and finance, journalists and artists. Here you can enjoy the typical dishes of Venetian tradition, from the delicacies of the sea to the vegetables. Map F5 Il Giardino Segreto c/o Grand Hotel dei Dogi. www.dahotels.com Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto, 3500 (Calle Larga Piave). T: 041 2208110. In an elegant and intimate atmosphere, you can enjoy international specialties and delicacies of the Italian cuisine, created by highly skilled chefs. Map E1

La Caravella c/o Hotel Saturnia. www.restaurantlacaravella.com Calle Larga XXII Marzo, 2399. T: 041 5208901. Opened in 1963, it completes the services offered by the Hotel Saturnia with a touch of culinary excellence thanks to its fabulous Venetian cuisine updated with a contemporary, gourmet twist. Map E5 La Cusina c/o The Westin Europa & Regina. www.lacusina.it San Marco 2159. T: 041 2400001. The ideal place to enjoy a combination of taste and relaxation. Choose a table overlooking the Grand Canal to enjoy a panoramic view of the city, while savouring the restaurant’s seasonal dishes. Map E5 Le Maschere c/o Starhotels Splendid Venice. www.starhotels.com San Marco Mercerie, 760. T: 041 5200755. Here you can sample authentic Venetian cuisine, featuring both meat and fish-based dishes. A truly gourmet experience, guaranteed by its partnership with Eataly. Map F4 Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. www.belmond.com Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801. Take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant takes its name, and try the specialties inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6 Pisanino c/o Palazzetto Pisani. www.palazzettopisani.com San Marco, 2814. T: 041 5232550. Here you can savor refined Italian and gourmet food in a typically Venetian ambient. Particular events are often organized in this space. Map E5 Terrazza Danieli c/o Hotel Danieli. www.terrazzadanieli.com Riva degli Schiavoni, 4196. T: 041 5226480. A trip to discover traditional flavours. Exclusive gourmet experience, with a menu featuring locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. Don’t miss the breathtaking view over the lagoon. Map F4

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EXHIBITION VIEW OF “MACHINES À PENSER” - FONDAZIONE PRADA, VENICE PHOTO MATTIA BALSAMINI - COURTESY FONDAZIONE PRADA

SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Jacopo Tintoretto, Deucalione e Pirra in preghiera, (1542 circa) Modena, Galleria Estense © courtesy Mibac – Archivio Fotografico delle Gallerie Estensi

Jacopo Tintoretto, Ritratto di uomo con una catena d'oro (1560 circa). Madrid, Museo Nacional del Prado

Tintoretto 500 Exhibitions, tours and a documentary celebrate the 500th anniversary of the birth of Tintoretto, one of the greatest Renaissance artists and a true child of the Serenissima. By Elena Binda

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n 1519, a child named Jacopo Robusti was born in a Venetian alley. His father, Giovanni Battista Robusti, was a cloth-dyer, hence his nickname Tintoretto, which means 'little dyer'. While growing up, the young ‘Tintoretto’ showed an amazing aptitude for colour. However, instead of dying fabrics, he began painting pictures, the likes of which had never been seen before. Today, Venice is celebrating the 500th anniversary of one of its most representative and best-loved artists with a run of special events. The ‘Tintoretto 500’ project comprises various initiatives, including two exhibitions which can be visited at two different venues, until 6 January 2019. The first, ‘Tintoretto 1519-2019’, features 50 paintings and 20 signed drawings, on loan 24  W H E R E V E N I C E I N O V E M B E R 2018

from prestigious international museums. The exhibition is housed in the magnificent rooms of the Doge’s Apartment, at Palazzo Ducale, the place that testifies best to the success and prestige achieved by the Venetian artist during his lifetime. The second, hosted by the Gallerie dell’Accademia and titled ‘Il giovane Tintoretto’ (The Young Tintoretto), focuses on the first ten years of his career and the context in which his training took place, with a stunning display of 60 works. Both exhibitions will be accompanied by an original documentary dedicated to the artist. Visitors can also book a combined, multilingual tour lasting three hours (education@fmcvenezia.it). In addition to the above, Venice will also host several parallel initiatives exploring Venetian

life at the time of Tintoretto. Highlights include a display of period costumes at Palazzo Mocenigo, manuscripts and codices at the Scuola Grande di San Marco and debates and talks across the city. This and more to celebrate an artist whose works caused the novelist Henry James to write: “It seemed to me that I had advanced to the uttermost limit of painting“. >> Palazzo Ducale San Marco, 1. T: 041 2715911. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it >> Gallerie dell'Accademia Dorsoduro, 1050 (Campo della Carità) T: 041 5222247. www.gallerieaccademia.it


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ATTRACTIONS & MONUMENTS Basilica del Redentore Based on a project by the famous architect Andrea Palladio, the Basilica was built in 1577 on the island of Giudecca. It contains works by Tintoretto, Veronese and other important Venetian artists. It was built to celebrate the deliverance from the Black Death, which killed one third of the population. To commemorate the end of the plague, a solemn festival is still held at the church on the third Sunday of July. www. chorusvenezia.org. Campo Redentore (Giudecca). T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 41 and 2 (Redentore stop). Map E6

Basilica di San Marco This is the most important Catholic church in the city, and one of the most important monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. The famous winged lion, a symbol of the city and of the ancient ‘Venetian Republic’ is depicted on its pediment. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. You might have to queue for a time to get inside, but your wait will be well worthwhile. Although admission is free, you will have to pay to see several specific sights. In order not to miss your visit, be sure to inform yourself about the opening hours, as they are often subject to change. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-4pm; Sun (and Public Holidays) 2pm-4pm. www.basilicasanmarco.it. San Marco, 328. T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

Canal Grande (Grand Canal) Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the main waterway of Venice and much more. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels, and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. For centuries, the Canal has witnessed lavish parties and workshop events, religious processions, capital executions, historical regattas and epidemics. Those visiting Venice should dedicate a few hours to a cruise on the Canal, not only for the pleasure of this experience, but because it offers several of the best panoramic views of Venetian palaces. It is is almost impossible to list all of them, but for more information you can visit the www. canalgrandevenezia.it website. For excursions and boat cruises visit www.canalgrande.it, or ask your concierge.

in non-Christian immigrants that, for the first time, the Venetian Senate, issued a decree stating that the Jewish population should move to a specific part of the city, where they could be better ‘controlled’. Thus Jews were forced to move to this, then, remote northwestern corner of Venice, to an abandoned site of a 14th-century foundry (‘ghetto’ is old Venetian dialect for "foundry," a word that would soon be used throughout Europe and the world to depict an area where isolated minority groups lived. The Venetian Ghetto nevertheless became a thriving, vibrant district. In 1797, when Napoleon rolled into town, the ghetto was disbanded as an institution, and Jews were free to move elsewhere. Today it is still the center of Venice's ever-diminishing community of Jewish families. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1 (Ponte Guglie stop). Map D2

Palazzo Ducale (see Museums listings), the Clock Tower (see listing) and some 18th century cafés, the Florian and the Quadri, to mention the best-known... Vaporetto lines, 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

Palazzo Ca’ Vendramin Calergi (Casinò di Venezia)

Ponte di Rialto (Rialto Bridge)

Overlooking the Grand Canal, this building houses the oldest casino in the world. An age-old destination, for aristocratic travelers from both East and West, Venice was the first city in the world to open a gaming house way back in 1683. Today its old-world ambience continues to play host to several of the world’s most classical games. The casino is open to everyone aged 18 and over and proper attire is required. www.casinovenezia.it. Cannaregio, 2040 (Calle Colombina). Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marcuola stop). Map E3

Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square) Known throughout the world, this square is the heart of Venice and its most symbolic landmark. It consists of a central, trapezoid-shaped unit integrated with other areas. Measuring 170 metres in length, it faces directly onto the water and is surrounded by several magnificent stately buildings. Its incalculable scenic beauty makes it one of the most widelyphotographed places in the world. The best thing to do here is to look around and exult, but don’t forget that the square has a number of specific landmark sites, whose interiors can also be visited: the Basilica of San Marco (see listing), the Bell Tower (see listing),

Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs) The Bridge of Sighs is a Baroque bridge that, by crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from which its name derives are not those of lovers, but those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. Open daily 8.30am- 7pm. www. palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 31024 (piazza San Marco). T:041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1,2, (San Marco stop). Map F4 This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Witness to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it (shutterbugs permitting), but even more spectacular when seen from the water, perhaps aboard a gondola. Originally built during medieval times as a pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto Market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. Unfortunately, it is not accessible to everyone; between upward and downward slopes, it includes as many as 120 steps. San Polo, 30125 (access from Ruga dei Oresi or from Salizada Pio X). Vaporetto linea 1,2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Santa Maria della Salute Generally referred to as “La Salute,” this crown jewel of 17th-century baroque architecture proudly stands at a commercially and aesthetically important point, almost directly opposite the Piazza San Marco, where the Grand Canal empties into the lagoon. Designed by Longhena, whose work was influenced by Palladio, it was constructed to honor the Virgin Mary for delivering Venice from the plague of 1630. On 21 November each year, a popular religious celebration, marking the official end of the Black

Chiesa and Scuola Grande di San Rocco A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures, including an impressive number of works by Tintoretto as well those by Tiepolo and Giorgione. Opening hours subject to change www. scuolagrandesanrocco.org. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Ghetto di Venezia Although documentation chronicles the presence of a Jewish community in Venice from before the year 1000, it was only during the 6th century, due to political unrest in Europe and a significant increase

PALAZZO DUCALE In addition to the temporary exhibition ‘Tintoretto 1519-2019’, the Sala del Maggior Consiglio hosts the ‘Paradise’ on a permanent basis. This masterpiece, executed in 1592, is considered the high point of Tintoretto's artistic career.

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SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Death, is held here. The church is also famous for its organ concerts. Open daily 9am-12noon/3pm5.30pm. www.basilicasalutevenezia.it. Fondamenta Salute, 30123. T: 041 2743911. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map E5

Donizetti and Verdi. Not only strongly associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it is also a stunning feat of architecture. teatrolafenice.it. Ticket office T: 041 2424. San Marco, 1965 (Campo San Fantin). Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E4

Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari

MUSEUMS & EXHIBITION SITES

Known by the Venetians simply as ‘i Frari’, this landmark features 17 monumental altars and is the largest church in the city. This medieval church in Gothic-Venetian style, houses, in addition to two paintings by Titian, the tombs and funerary monuments of numerous famous people, including Titian, Monteverdi and Canova. chorusvenezia.org. Campo dei Frari. T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 1, 2, N (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Scala Contarini del Bovolo Palazzo Contarini is an exquisite, late Gothic building. However, what makes it such a popular attraction today, was the addition, by its architects, in 1499, of an amazing, external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. Open Tues-Sun: 10am1.30pm/2pm-6pm. www.scalacontarinidelbovolo. com. c/o Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo. San Marco, 4299 (Campo Manin, Rio San Luca). T: 041 3096605. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map E4

Scuola Grande dei Carmini Housed in a 16th century palazzo, it is the seat of an ancient brotherhood and all its original furnishing and a number of priceless oil paintings have been preserved intact. The drama builds when entering the Sala del Capitolo, whose ceiling features nine exceptional canvases painted by the brotherhood’s most famous member, Giambattista Tiepolo. Open daily 11am-5pm. www. scuolagrandecarmini.it. Dorsoduro, 2616 (Campo dei Carmini, Campo Santa Margherita). T: 041 5289420. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop).

Teatro La Fenice Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Rossini, Bellini,

This 17th century violin belonging to Martinus Kaiser is one of the priceless masterpieces preserved at the MUSEO QUERINI STAMPALIA.

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Ca’ Pesaro-International Gallery of Modern Art Hosts important 19th and 20th century collections of paintings and sculptures, including masterpieces by Klimt and Chagall as well as noteworthy oeuvres by the likes of Kandinsky, Klee, Matisse and Moore. Other highlights include a rich selection of works by Italian artists and an important selection of graphics. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10. www.capesaro.visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 2076. Vaporetto line 2 (San Stae stop). Map E3

Ca’ Rezzonico-Museum of Eighteenth Century Venetian Art The large staircase of this magnificent palazzo leads to several elegant rooms housing paintings, sculptures and 18th century furnishings (first floor): the ‘Portego dei dipinti’ featuring canvases by Canaletto, a room dedicated to Longhi and the frescoes painted by Giandomenico Tiepolo detached from the walls of Villa Zianigo (second floor); the rooms of the Farmacia Ai do San Marchi and the exquisite Pinacoteca Egidio Martini (third floor). Alternately, the Browning Mezzanine houses the works of the Mestrovich Collection, including works by artists like Tintoretto and Bonifacio de’ Pitati. Closed on Tues, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10. www.carezzonico.visitmuve. it. Dorsoduro 3136 (Fondamenta Rezzonico). T: 041 2410100. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). Map D5

Fondazione Cini-San Giorgio Maggiore Set against the magnificent backdrop of the Basin of St Mark, the Foundation was established in 1951 by Count Vittorio Cini to restore the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore and to create an international centre of cultural activities. The Foundation is housed in the monumental complex of the former Benedictine Monastery of San Giorgio Maggiore, a place of inestimable architectural and artistic prestige, thanks to works by several of Italy’s greatest 16th and 17th century masters. Enlarged in the 16th century by Andrea Palladio, who also designed its refectory, the church of San Giorgio Maggiore and the Cloister of Cypresses, in addition to numerous other treasures, the complex hosts an impressive collection of paintings by Jacopo Tintoretto, as well as several 16th and 17th century works of arts. Guided tours in Italian, English and French on Saturdays and Sundays. For information and booking T: 041 2201215. Full price ticket €10. www.cini.it. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 2710280. Vaporetto line 2 (Isola di San Giorgio stop). Map G6

Gallerie dell'Accademia di Venezia

VENETIAN MUSEUM HUB Following a Napoleonic decree, the Gallerie dell'Accademia were instituted as an educational adjunct to the Academy of Fine Arts. They host the most important collection of Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo, and works by several important

landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The monumental complex hosting these works occupies the ancient church of Santa Maria della Carità, the Scuola Grande della Carità and the Canonici Lateranensi convent complex designed by Andrea Palladio in 1561. Open Mon 8.15am-2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Full ticket price: €9. Ticket pricing may vary during temporary exhibitions. www.gallerieaccademia.it. Dorsoduro 1050 (Campo della Carità). T: 041 5222247. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop). Map D5

Museo Correr The museum is located in the old Royal Palace in St. Mark’s Square and includes the Napoleonic Wing and the Procuratie Nuove. Built to house Teodoro Correr’s collection, it features several exhibition spaces dedicated to the art and history of Venice. These include the neo-classical rooms housing sculptures by Antonio Canova, historic collections describing the changing cityscape of Venice and, finally, the pinacoteca, boasting important masterpieces of Venetian art from its origins to the 16th century. Open daily. www.correr.visitmuve.it. San Marco 52 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2405211. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso stop or, San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 - 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Museo del Merletto (Lace Museum) Located in Burano, the museum is housed in a small building, formerly home to Venice’s famous Lace School. Boasting more than two-hundred rare, priceless pieces, the exhibition chronicles the evolution of the art of lace-making in Venice from the 16th to 20th centuries. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €5. Joint ticket for the Glass Museum and the Lace Museum €12. www.museomerletto.visitmuve.it. Piazza Galuppi 187, Burano. T: 041 730034. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2, 5.2 (Fondamenta Nove stop), and then line 12 (Burano stop). Off Map

Museo del Vetro (Glass Museum) Housed in the aristocratic palazzo Giustinian, on the island of Murano, the collections exhibited at the museum are arranged in chronological order: in addition to the archaeological section featuring Roman remains from the 1st and 2nd centuries A.D., you can also find an extensive range of historical objet d’art made from Murano glass, including important pieces produced between the 15th and 20th centuries. Open daily. Full price ticket €10. Joint ticket for the Glass Museum + Lace Museum €12. www.museovetro.visitmuve.it. Fondamenta Giustinian, 8. Murano. T: 041 5274718. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2 (Museo Murano stop). Off Map

Museo Querini Stampalia The Querini Stampalia house-museum is an opulent patrician dwelling located on the ‘piano nobile’ of a 16th century palazzo, and features several unusual architectural elements designed by Carlo Scarpa, Valeriano Pastor and Mario Botta. Works displayed include paintings by Giovanni Bellini, Jacopo Palma the Elder and the Younger, Bernardo Strozzi, Marco and Sebastiano Ricci, Giambattista Tiepolo, Pietro Longhi and Gabriel Bella. In addition to the museum, the complex also has a library and a space dedicated to contemporary art exhibitions. Open Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. Closed on Mondays. Museum and Display Areas full ticket price €10; Scarpa Area full ticket price €8. www.querinistampalia.it. Castello, 5252 (Santa Maria Formosa). T: 041 2711411. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (Rialto stop), lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1, 5.2, 7, 20 (San Zaccaria stop).


MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

| SIGHTSEEING

Palazzo Ducale A landmark attraction, a masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, the Ducal Palace features a number of different architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it not only houses temporary exhibitions but can also be visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. The public entrance to the Doge’s Palace is through the ‘Porta del Frumento’ which leads to the spacious council rooms and then onwards to the exquisite rooms of the Doge’s Apartment. Other highlights on this route include the prisons and loggias overlooking the square and the lagoon. Open daily. www.palazzoducale. visitmuve.it. San Marco, 1 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti), 5.1 or 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Palazzo Fortuny Mariano Fortuny (Granada 1871 - Venice 1949) transformed Palazzo Pesaro degli Orfei into his own personal atelier for photography, set-design, textile creations and paintings. The museum’s collections boasts pieces and materials commissioned for important projects: paintings, lighting systems, photography and ornate garments. The building is now used to host art exhibitions. The museum is open only during temporary exhibitions. Open 10am-6pm. Closed on Tuesdays. www.fortuny. visitmuve.it. San Marco 3958 (Campo San Benedeto). T: 041 5200995. Vaporetto line 1 (Sant’Angelo stop), 2 (San Samuele stop). Map E4

BIENNALE ARCHITETTURA

Experience your space Visiting the Venice Biennale (25 May-25 November) and its exhibitions, an eclectic mixture of worldliness and culture, is an event that many people have heard about and would like to attend at least once in their lifetime. The theme of this year's edition is 'Freespace' and is intended to symbolize the generosity of spirit and sense of humanity at the core of architecture's agenda. It’s not necessary to have knowledge of architecture: what counts is a spirit of curiosity and an ability to go along with the provocative ideas offered by the artists participating in the event. Before setting out, make a list of unmissable highlights, because, depending on the time available, you might only be able to see a fraction of what’s on offer. However, November is the last month to visit the Architecture Biennale. The organizers of the Venice Biennale offer different types of tickets: forget about visiting the Giardini and the Arsenale in just one day. It’s advisable to opt for a multi-entry ticket so that you can enjoy the experience to the full without exhausting yourself. Ask your concierge. www.labiennale.org/en/architecture/2018

Palazzo Grassi-Punta della Dogana Overlooking the Grand Canal and recently restored by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, Venice’s 18th century Palazzo Grassi and the former harbour of Punta della Dogana are two contemporary art museums funded by the François Pinault Foundation. They host important collective or monographic exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault Collection, one of the world’s largest collections of contemporary art. Palazzo Grassi’s ‘Teatrino’, an adjunct to the exhibition spaces, offers an action packed calendar of conferences, concerts and screenings of an international scope. Open daily 10am-7pm. Closed on Tuesdays, 25 December. Full price ticket €18 (Punta della Dogana+Palazzo Grassi). www. palazzograssi.it. T: 041 2001057. Palazzo Grassi San Marco 3231 (Campo San Samuele). Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop), 1 (Sant’Angelo stop). Map D4 • Museo Punta della Dogana Dorsoduro 2. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map F5

The Arsenale © Andrea Avezzù

Palazzo Mocenigo-Centro Studi di Storia del Tessuto e del Costume Formerly a patrician residence, in 1985 it became the Study Centre of the History of Fabrics and Costumes. Its exhibition spaces explore various aspects of the lives and activities of Venetian aristocrats between the 17th and 18th centuries. The exhibits on display include opulent garments and olden-day accessories, with a section dedicated to perfume. The palazzo’s furnishings and paintings have been integrated with a number of works originating from the warehouses of Venice’s civic museums. Open from 1 April to 31 October: 10am-5pm; from 1 November to 31 March: 10am-4pm. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €8. www.mocenigo.visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 1992. T: 041 721798. Vaporetto line 1 (San Stae stop). Map E3

Jacopo Robusti - “Tintoretto’, Susannah and the Elders (mid-1550s). Gemäldegalerie, Kunsthistorisches Museum, Vienna. The Belgian Pavilion © Italo Rondinella - www.italorondinella.com

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PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK

ESSENTIALS

Venice, the floating city Some information and invaluable tips to experience the best that this magical city on water has to offer. By Simona P. K. Daviddi

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talians (at least many of them), may already know that Venice… actually floats! Unlike Amsterdam or Saint Petersburg, it is not just furrowed by canals, bordered by roads and pavements. In Venice, canals are the only available communication route, bearing in mind that part of the city extends over a handful of beautiful islands that are scattered across the Lagoon. For this reason, the lagoon city can only be crossed on foot or by boat. Cars, motorbikes, bicycles and even roller skates are strictly forbidden. But this is not all. At times Venice may find itself... under water! The acqua alta phenomenon – the result of heavy rainfall and high tides - can cause the water level to rise by as much as a meter, forcing everyone to walk on raised plank walkways, or don rain boots (many shops, including tobacconists, sell 28  W H E R E V E N I C E I N O V E M B E R 2018

disposable ones) in order to cross the city’s flooded calli, campielli and salizade. Calli, campielli and salizade are Venetian words used to identify streets, squares and alleys while sestieri is the local word indicating the six districts the city is divided into: San Marco, Dorsoduro, Cannaregio, Santa Croce, San Polo and Castello. This division dates back to the 12th century and also includes areas such as La Giudecca, the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore (San Marco) and the Island of San Michele, home to the city’s cemetery (Castello). Street numbers in each sestiere start from 1 and often reach four figures, for example, one of the last numbers of the sestiere of Castello is 7,000. You need to learn them if you want to find your way through the spectacular, maze-like historic centre. Venice also has its own network of

public...and private transportation: its vaporetti, real waterbuses, are the most popular craft used by locals, which is why they are often very crowded during peak hours. These engine-powered water taxis are able to whiz across the lagoon in a heartbeat, but for those who prefer a unique, incredibly romantic experience, the famous, distinctive gondola is an absolute must. This elegant, black, one-oared rowing boat drifts gently across the water, while its gondolier sings an entire repertoire of traditional Venetian folk songs. It goes without saying that the waters of the canals are not suitable for swimming, and their banks are often slippery. Be careful not to be so focused on your selfie stick that you walk into a canal because you might be in for some rather unpleasant surprises!


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Emergency POLICE T: 113 AMBULANCE T: 118 FIRE BRIGADE T: 115 TRAFFIC POLICE T: 041 2747070 LOST AND FOUND ON VAPORETTI T: 041 2722179 24-HOUR PHARMACY: check the display at

UNIQUE | FAST TRAINS NETWORK FROM VENICE

all pharmacies.

Airports INTERNATIONAL MARCO POLO DI TESSERA AIRPORT (VCE) - Venice’s Marco Polo Airport offers easy access to numerous destinations located in the Veneto region and in Northern Italy, the Canova di Treviso Airport (in Sant’Angelo) and main railway routes. The Marco Polo Airport is situated at a distance of 13 km from Venice (www.veniceairport.it). Trasportation from the Marco Polo Airport to the historic centre of Venice (and vice-versa): • Taxis (15 min. to Piazzale Roma, approximately €40); • water taxis (fast, private motorboats, approximately €80 ). This service is operative 24/24h (Consorzio Motoscafi Venezia www.motoscafivenezia.it. T: 041 5222303). • ATVO shuttle bus (20 min. to Piazzale Roma, €3, luggage included); • ACTV bus no. 5 (30 min. to Piazzale Roma with intermediate stops, €1, luggage excluded); • Alilaguna motorboats (a private service that uses ACTV’s network of docking stations with intermediate stops at strategic points throughout the city. Fares range from 8 to 27 euros). www.alilaguna.it. T: 041 2401701.

Trains FERROVIE DELLO STATO - Trenitalia Railway

Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com. Venice’s Railway Station (Santa Lucia) can be accessed from all main European and Italian cities. The Railway Station overlooks the lagoon and is located just steps from the stops of Venice’s main public transportation lines. E.g.: to reach St. Mark’s Square by vaporetto, take line 1 or 2. Estimated journey time from main Italian cities via high-speed trains, including Frecciarossa, Frecciabianca, Frecciargento, Italo, Thello, Eurocity.

Tourist Information APT - Azienda di promozione Turistica Città

Metropolitana di Venezia (eng.turismovenezia. it/): Palazzetto Carmagnani, San Marco 2637. T: 041 5298711. VENEZIA UNICA - The official tourism website

of the City of Venice (www.veneziaunica.it)

Tourist Card VENEZIA UNICA CITY PASS is an all-in-one pass

that offers unlimited use of public transportation, admission to tourist attractions and cultural events in the city, plus a number of other useful services. You can purchase your card online and customize your Venezia Unica City Pass to suit your individual travel needs (www.veneziaunica.it/en) exchange vouchers. Open daily 9am-4pm. T: 392 6786628.

GETTING AROUND VENICE Because it is a relatively small, compact city (a 45-minute walk from North to South) whose main points of interest are situated just a short distance from each other, visiting Venice on foot is the ideal solution. Vaporetti - An efficient network of water bus routes covers the entire city and includes transportation to the islands.The service is active 24/24h but runs less frequently between 9.30pm and 6am. Landing stages are located at central points around the city (including Piazzale Roma, Rialto, Piazza San Marco…) . Tickets - Although paper tickets are available at main embarkation points and from authorized resellers displaying the ACTV logo, electronic tickets can also be pre-purchased online. ACTV: Piazzale Roma. T: 041 2424. www actv.it. There are 6 different types of tickets, ranging from hourly tickets (€7.50 for a 75’ regular route) to a weekly pass (€60) for unlimited travel on almost all lines. TIP The boat trip from one bank of the Grand Canal to the other costs 2 euro (only cash).You can pre-purchase reducedprice tickets from Venice Connected: www. veniceconnected.com. IMOB smart cards are available at all ACTV ticket offices. Although they allow you to save on official rates, they are only recommended for long-term visits. Gondolas - These traditional craft are among the best-known tourist attraction for those wishing to experience a view of Venice that is anything but pedestrian. They are used almost exclusively by tourists (and Venetians on their wedding days). TIP Before embarking, we suggest that you check official rates

(approximately €80 for 45 minutes and €100 after 7pm). Agree on a price, time limit and singing in advance to avoid unexpected surcharges. Associazione dei Gondolieri T. 041 5285075. www. gondolavenezia.it Traghetti (Ferries) - ‘Traghetti’ are gondolas that cross the Grand Canal in 8 points. ‘Traghetti’ rides cost just €2 for non-residents (for holders of City Pass Venezia Unica or ACTV passes, rides cost 0.70) and operate almost non-stop. Four ferry services operate in Venice. Taxi - Water taxis with a cabin (private water taxis) are available for hire from 16 landing stages, including Lido Aeroporto Marco Polo, piazzale Roma, Ferrovia, Rialto and San Marco, or from your hotel. TIP Although private water taxis can be costly, they are the fastest and most practical means of getting around Venice. Ask your concierge. Car - The city can be accessed from the mainland by car, thanks to an elevated section (a 4km bridge, the longest in Italy, also known as the ‘Translagunare’), with limited parking options at garages in Piazzale Roma or on the Island of Tronchetto. Prices for 24-hour parking cost approximately €30 euro. TIP It’s advisable to travel to Mestre by car (24hour parking costs approximately €15 euro) and then continue on to Venice by public transport. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com  29


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ISOLA SAN GIACOMO IN PALUDE

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Chiesa di San Michele in Isola

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Aeroporto Nicelli Venezia Lido

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Teatro Verde

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Japan Pavilion

CO

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United States Pavilion

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LA

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ALBANESI CALLE DEL

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CAMPO

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della

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CALLE

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CAMPIELLO DEL LIBRER

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ALBANESI DEI

CALLE

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CALLE

CALLE

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CALLE

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BO

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SA

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BB

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Parco delle Rimembranze

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CR

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GRANDE

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RIO

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CALLE

SA

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San Giuseppe di Castello

Russia Pavilion

G

PONTE

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E

CALLE

AM

ND

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CORTE

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CAMPO SAN ISEPO

Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore

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EN

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CALLE

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IAN

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CO

SA

SE

C.

GIUSEP

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CALLE

COPPO

SCHIAVONA

AR

LARGA

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SANT'ANNA

CALLE CORERA

CALLE

M

Basilica di San Pietro di Castello CALLE

CALLE TERCO

F O N D A M E N TA

C A L L E C ATA PA N

CALLE

TE

CALLE DELL’ANGELO

DELFINA

GRIMANI

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LA CERTOSA

Vergini

FOND. SAN GIOACCHIN

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OLO C A L L E G I A N B AT T I S TA T I E P

CALLE

CALLE

NUOVA

DEI PRETI

CALLE

de le

N TA R I O D E L L A TA NA

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LE

San Francesco di Paola BALD

AN

CALLE

ENA

COLTRERA

CALLE

CALLE

GARI

EPPE

CALLE FRIZIER

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DE

EL

FONDAMENTA

ARS

NALE

FONDAME

IUS VIA G

VA

CH

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TA A R SE

LA TANA

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AM

DELLA

MI

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RAMO DE

CROSERA

ND

CALLE

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LE

AMEN

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CALLE

FO

CALLE ALBERO

LL

JUNGHANS

DE

FOND

DE LA

Punta della Dogana

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Redentore O

Santissimo Redentore

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del

DAM

La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale

CAMPO

CALLE

SAN GI ACOM

CA

CAMPO

CALLE

VIDA

CASTELLO

M E N TA

LA

ISOLA DI

GIUDECCA FONDA

DEI

DE

Museo Storico Navale di Venezia

DI

PICCOLO

FON

FONDAMENTA ARSENALOTTI

CALLE

PIETRO

PONTE

PALLADA

SCUOLA

Giardino delle Vergini

Rio

San Martino

MOROSINA

CALLE DELA CREA

Zitelle

FONDAMENTA

FONDAMENTA

La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale

La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese

RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

Spirito Santo

IA

CALLE

PESTRIN

GRITTI CALLE

SAN

FEM

DE CALLE

CROSERA

Arsenale di Venezia

Arsenale di Venezia

PIGNATER

RUGA VECCHIA

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PISCINA

DE

C. VOLTO

TERRÀ

NT

SCUOLA

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SA

CALLE

DE

SALIZADA

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FONDAMENTA

DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO

TA

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

Moise

DEL TRAGHETTO

MARTIRI

San

CALLE

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TREDICI

Rio

CALLE

VALLARESSO

CALLE

CALLE

SARTOR

FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN

CAMPO DELLA SALUTE

Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

San Gregorio

RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO

Giudecca Palanca EN

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CASTELLO

L’ANZOLO

BASTION

C. DEL

ASCENSIONE

DEI PUTI

AM

CELESTIA

DONA

DE

SCUDI

LARGA

CALLE

SEBASTIAN

ND

CASTELLO CASE

DELLA

CALLE

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI

DEL

CALLE

SAN

CALLE DEL PESTRIN

FO

COSMO

SESTIERE

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA

DE L’OGIO

CALLE

SAN ANTONIN

S C H I AV

DEI FORNI

FO

Sant'Eufemia

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S. Zaccaria (Pieta')

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CALLE

CASE

RAMO

CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA

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SAN

CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO

San Giovanni Battista in Bragora

VONI

100 m

SAN

CONVERTITE

San Francesco della Vigna

FRANCESCO

SANTA GIUSTINA

CALLE DEI FURLANI

SALIZADA

CALLE TERAZZERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’

Santa Maria della Pietà SCHIA

S. Zaccaria (Danieli)

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

SAN

SALIZADA

DEGLI

VERONA

RIO

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA

San Giovanni di Malta

San Giorgio dei Greci

San Zaccaria

CALLE BOSELLO

LA

MINELLI

DEGLI

O

DEGLI

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

SALUTE

LAVRANERI

ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

ZON

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

VIN CALLE DEL

Palazzo

DE

CAVALLETTO

ORSEOLO

FONDAMENTA DEL VIN

DEL

SOTO E CORTE NOVA

C.

Rio Del

FABBRI

FONDAMENTA

C.

CALLE

S. SAMUELE

PESTRIN

FONDAMENTA

CALLE DEL BASTION

FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE SAN LORENZO

CALLE LION

DE L’OSMARIN FONDAMENTA

CAMPO SAN PROVOLO

CALLE

SPECHIERI

SPADARIA

DEI

DEL

CALLE

TRONCHETTO

DEL NOVA ISOLA

FONDAMENTA

ra Scomenze De

MARITTIMO

Canale

PORTO

FONDAMENTA

F. CONDULMER

DIREZIONE

MARITTIMO

CERERIA LA

PORTO

DE

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA

San Lorenzo

CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA

CALLE

DEI PRETI

GATE

CALLE

DRASI

C.

DEL CAFETIER

CORTE NOVA

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C. PIANTON

R I VA

DE LE

DEI

CALLE

C. DE LE COLONNE

DELL’OROLOGIO

PISCINA

VERONA

RC

CALLE

CALLE

MARZARIA

REDIVO

CALLE GOLDONI

CALLE

LA

CALLE

DE

A N M

SALIZADA

a

CALLE

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

SEVERO

DIREZIONE

LATERANO

SAN

FABBRI

Marittim

P U N TA S A B B I O N I Santa Maria del Pianto

DE LE TOLE

FONDAMENTA GIOVANNI

CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO

BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO

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C.

MANDOLA

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TERÀ

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LORENZO

FONDAMENTA

C. SAN

SCOAZZERA DE LA

LE PAZIENZE

SA

MEZO

CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO

Palazzo Ducale

LO

Rio San Lorenzo

DE CALLE

RUGA

CALLE

PISCOPIA

CARBON

Salvador

MARCO

CANONICA DE LA

O

MO

FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO

LIO

DEL

LARGA

BARBARIA

SAN

CORTE NUOVA

San Giovanni Novo CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO

SAN

CALLE

RC

SCHIAVONI RIVA

LE VIGNOLE

NOVE

Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto

CORTE TREVISAN

Palazzo Querini Stampalia

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

REMEDIO DEL CALLE

LARGA

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

Basilica di San Marco

MA

FONDAMENTA

SAN

San

RIO

CALLE

CALLE

San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti

Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo

Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo

CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

FORNO

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani

BANDE

CORTE FRUTARIOLI

CALLE DEL FIGHER

CALLE

BALONI

CAPPELLO

SAN

CALLE ERIZZO

SALIZADA

DE LE

ORBI

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

CALLE

DEI

CALLE

Rio

C.

MAGAZZINI

G. GALLINA

DEL

DE LE ERBE

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

TASCA

CORTE DEL FORNO

C.DEI

BIANCA CALLE

ZZA

CALLE

BEMBO

ZULIAN

CORTE TORRETTA

Museo Correr

Salute

ZATTERE

DE LA SACA

CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO

CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO

LARGA

CALLE

O MUSSATO CALLE

San Giuliano

SAN

PIGNOLI

REMER

CALLE

GRIMANI

CAVALLI

LUCATELLO

MARZARIA DEI

PIA

O DEL

CINQUE

CALLE

CALLE

CORNER

AI

DEI

LICINI

MEZO

C.

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

FONDAMENTA

CORTE NOVA

CALLE GABRIELI

DRIO CALLE LE SCUOLE

CALLE

CALLE

CORTE

RUBBI

DE

CORTE GRAGOLINA

Bacino Orseolo

Ca' Giustinian

RI

Palazzo Genovese

Spirito Santo CALLE

DEI LAVRANERI

San Gerardo

BIAGIO

NOVE

CORTE CORTESE

CAMPIELLO STELLA

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

CASTELLI

PIOMBO

D. PALLE

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

LIO

C. LARGA

CORTE

CALLE

CAPITELLO

BALOTE

GALLO SAN

BERLENDIS

VARISCO

CALLE

CALLE DEL C.MARTINENGO

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

CAMPO

DE LA FAVA

CALICE

DEL

TAGIAPIERA

LE

GRAGOLINA LE COLONNE DE

STRAZZE TERÀ RIO

CALLE CAMPO SAN GALLO

BOTERI

CALLE

O

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN

CALLE

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

MIRACOLI

GIAZZO

SAN

GALIAZZO

C. DEL

SALVADOR

MARZARIA

CORTE C.DEL TRAMONTIN

C.DE

COCCO

TOSCANA

CALLE

Stazione

DEI

CALLE

DE

SAN

DELLE

CARRO

PRIMO RAMOCONTARINA CORTE

San Moisè

Palazzo Pisani Gritti

PONTE

SACCA SAN

DEI

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

WIDMANN

CALLE

SALIZADA

SABION

C.

C.

DEL CALLE

CORTE BAROZZI

FONDAMENTE

LARGA

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

C O RT E B ATA G I A

RIO

Teatro Malibran

CAMPO

C. DEL

CORTE DEL

MARZARIA

San Salvador

FRUTARIOL

DEL

CAMPO SAN MOISE’

CASTELLO

CALLE

MADONA

zera

ORESI

DE LA

FORNO

RAMO

DEL

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

FREZZERIA

MOISE’

SA PISCINA

XXII MARZO

SESTIERE

DEI

PARANGON

CALLE

DOLERA

C. DE

RIO TERA’

L' ARZERE

GUARDIANI

DE

TODESCHI

CALLE

CANAL RIO TERA’

C. DEI

LARGA

CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

VENEZIA

CALLE

CAL RAMO

S.Canciano CALLE

CALLE

SAN CANZIAN

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

X

SAN LIO

MAZZINI CORTE

MAGAZEN

DEL

CALLE

DE PISCINA

LA CHIESA

DRIO

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

FONTEGO

PIO

LARGA

SAN SALVADOR

LUCA SAN CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

CORTE

MICHIEL

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

Santa Maria del Giglio

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim

DEL FORNO

CALLE DEL NAVARO

FONDAMENTA

VENIER

CORTE DEL REMER

FRUTARIOL

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

C. DEL

SALIZZADA

CALLE

TEATRO DEL CALLE

LOCANDE CALLE ASSASSINI

San Fantin

Maria del Giglio

CHIESA

SALIZADA

SPIRITO

CALLE

BARBA

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

RUGA

CALLE

DIETRO

VOLTI

GALIZZI

ROSSA

nde Canal Gra

FONDAMENTA

RAGUSEI

FONDAMENTA

CROSERA

CALLE

CALLE

TRAGHETTO

VAPORETTO

CALLE

STURION

DEL

ALLO

ZEN

SARTORI

TERÀ

Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto

Rialto

TEATRO

PATERNIN

MANDOLA

TERÀ

RIO

Teatro la Fenice

DELLA

CAPPUZZI

ZATTERE

CAMPO DEI GESUITI

FONDAMENTA

FOND.

RIO

SALIZADA

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

San Giacomo di Rialto

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

CORTE DEL

Palazzo Nervi Scattolin

CAMPO MANIN SAN CALLE CALLE

CAFETIER

CAOTORTA

Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

CALLE

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

SANTO

DEL

CATERINA

San Giovanni Grisostomo

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

TEATRO

MARCO

DEL

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

San MaurizioSanta

Canal Grande

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

SANTA

PRIULI

NOVA

PESCARIA

Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)

S.Silvestro

DEL

CALLE

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

Santo Stefano

C.SANT'AGNESE

NANI

AI GESUATI

Giudecca Hilton

Chiesa dei Gesuiti

S.ANDREA

FONDAMENTA

Santa Sofia

STRADA

San Silvestro

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

Palazzo Grimani

San Beneto San Luca

SAN BOTEGHE

CAMPO PISANI

CATENE

CAMPO DELLA

RAVANO

DEL

RUGHETA

DEI

CALLE

CAZZIOLA

TRAGHETTO

DEL PISTOR

CALLE

Zattere

NOVE

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

FOND.

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

STUA

BECARIE

DEL SOL

DEL

DEL

CALLE

ZATTERE

CALLE

LA

CAMPO DE LA

CAMPIELLO DEL SANSONI

CAMPIELLO

CALLE

CAMPO SAN BENETO CALLE

LE

CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione FONDAMENTA

FONDAMENTE

Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana

MUTI

CAMPO SAN APONAL

FABBRICHE

CA’

BOTA

Sant’Aponal DEL

LE

LA

CARAMPANE

de r an

NARISI FOND.

DE

CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

San Vidal CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

San Trovaso CAMPO SAN TROVASO

DEL

San Felice

LE

Palazzo Fortuny

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

CROSERA

FALIER

BONLINI

TRAPOLIN

VENDRAMIN

CALLE

DE

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

DI SAN MARCO

SAMUELE

Palazzo Loredan

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

LONGO

IA

CA'

DE DE

CARAMPANE

TERÀ

PERDON

CARROZZE

al G

SESTIERE

S. SALIZADA

LE

Abazia della Misericordia D

R

San Cassiano CALLE CALLE

RIO

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

Can Sant'Angelo

VECCHIA

LEZZE

FONDAMENTA

O

DE

Santa Fosca

CAMPO SAN CASSAN

L’AGNELLA

Palazzo Querini-Dubois

CA’ CORTE

DE

CALLE

S. Samuele

CALLE

OGNISANTI

IC

d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro

TIOZZI

DE

CORTE DEL TEATRO

CAMPO SAN POLO

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

DE

ER

C.

Rio Nuovo

FOND.

IS

NA

DEI

C.

SCALETER

CALLE RAMO

PONTE

M

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

DE

DEL

Palazzo Giustinian Persico S. Toma' SX

Palazzo Grassi San Samuele

Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia

BEATE GIULIANA

SACCA

FISOLA

LARGA

TA

S.Stae

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

CALLE CA’BONVINCINI

BOLDO

C.

EN

TRON

SAN

San Tomà

Ca' Rezzonico

Accademia

ZATTERE AL

CALLE CHIESA

CONTARINI

dell'Orto

AM

MORETTI

C.

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

CAMPO SAN TOMÀ

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI CALLE BERNARDO

FODAMENTA

S. Basilio

DELLA

D

San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale

CALLE

DEL

TENTOR

MEZO

CAMPO

ZANE

CROSERA

Ca' Rezzonico

Giudecca Hilton FONDAMENTO CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO

CALLE

N

CALLE

TABACCHI

CALLE

C.

DE

SAN BOLDO

CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO

SAN POLO

CAMPO DEI FRARI

CALLE

San Barnaba

Madonna

MORI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

NUOVA

PRETI

L’ASEO

DEI

CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE

L

CAMPO SAN STIN

TOMÀ

CAMPO SAN ROCCO

DE

CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA

NA

DONZELA

CALLE

TINTORETTO

DEI

CALLE

FOMO

CA

LA

SAN

CALLE

CALLE

CAMPO SAN PANTALON

RENIER

DEL

A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA

DE OGNISANTI

LE

ALE

DE

PAPADOPOLI

TERÀ

Basilica dei Frari

San Rocco

Muneghete

CALLE

CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA

INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON

Chiesa di Ognissanti

FONDAMENTA

NIE

DD

Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

CALLE

CALLE

RIO

CALLE

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

le

PANTALON

San Pantalon

NUOVO

.DA

MA

La Maddalena

Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

L’ISOLA

OCHE CALLE

OCHE

LATTE

LACA

FONDARIA

CIMESIN

de

BASEGO

RIO

CAMPO DEI CARMINI

LA

DE

LA

CALLE DE LA LACA

LA

RAMO

CIMESIN

SAN

CALLE

Carmini

Santa Maria dei Carmini

À D E

SOTOPORTEGO

DE

C. CAMPAZZO DE

CALLE

Rio

SALIZADA

del

CALLE DE LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN BESAGIO

FO de Servi N

TER

C.

TOLENTINI

FONDAMENTA

DEI

Bacino

DE

DE LA VIDA

C.VENZATO

LA

CALLE

CALLE DELL'OLIO

FON.

Canale

TERA’

RAMO

CALLE ORSETTI

DE

TINTOR

BESAGIO

Misericordia

FO

RIO DIETRO TERÀ LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

DEL

SALIZADA

della

Rio

San Giacomo dall'Orio CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO CALLE

DEI

LIBERTÀ

VECCHIO BERGAMASCHI

SIMEONE LUNA

MINOTTO

Magazen

CALLE

Rio

DORSODURO

San Sebastiano SAN

CALLE CAZZA

FONDAMENTA

CANAL

LA

DEI AMAI

RAMO

Del

Rio dei Tolentini

FONDAMENTA

CALLE CONTARINA

BRIATI

CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO

CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN

RUGA BELA

BARI

DELLA

SAN

TRAGHETTO CALLE

CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL

CALLE SAVIO

RUGA VECCHIA

CAMPO

DEI

Angelo Raffaele

DORSODURO

Rio

CALLE

C.

NUOVA

CERERI

FONDAMENTA

LARDONI

Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola RIO

LARGA

PONTE PROCURATIE

DEI

CALLE

IA

CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA

DEL REMER

BIASIO

DI

BARI

C.

CALLE

LUNGA

Scomen

CALLE

RIZZI FONDAMENTA

FONDAMENTA

DE L’OGIO

RD

R

VECCHIO

RIVA

LISTA

San Simeone Profeta

Soranzo Cappello

DE CAMPO

San Nicola da Tolentino

Rio

PENSIERI

DEI FONTEGHERI

CALLE

I CALLE ORSETT

DEI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

ICO

NOVA

MISERICORDIA

SANT'ANDREA

FONDAMENTA

TERÀ

MADONA

SAN MICHELE

FONDAMENTA

della

CAMPO FONDAMENTA DEI MORI

ER

San Marcuola

CAMPIELLO

nde l Gra Cana Riva de Biaso

CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO

NAZARIO Palazzo FONDAMENTA SAURO Soranzo Capello GARZOTTI

Giardino di Palazzo

CASE CORTE

CALLE

C. LAVADORI TERÀ

TABACCHI

RIO

LA

MIS

RIO

NUOVE

CROCE

Giardino Papadopoli

PIAZZALE ROMA RIO

FABBRICA FONDAMENTA

DE

TA

E DEL PISTO

MUNEGHE

LA

CROCE

CALLE

CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI

EN

STRADA

DE

SPAGNA

FONDAMENTA

Ferrovia

CORTE

Sant'Andrea

SANT'ANDREA

NICOLO’ SAN

San Nicolò dei Mendicoli

CALLE

AM

CALL

San Leonardo

San Geremia DI LISTA TERÀ RIO

SCALZI

DEI Ponte degli Scalzi

FONDAMENTA

San Simeon Piccolo

Ferrovia

Ferrovia

LA FO.

TERÀ

MARTA

Istituto Universitario Di Architettura

CALLE SAN BASILIO

ND

I

EONARDO

SAN LEONARDO

CALLE TRAGHETTO

CALLE

CAVALLETTI

Santa Maria di Nazareth

P.le Roma

Ponte della Costituzione

RIO

People Mover Venezia

SANTA FONDAMENTA

MATTA DI CA’

CALLE CASE NUOVE

Madonna dell'Orto

MADONNA

A

Rio

LER

NA

AI

People Mover Venezia

S A N TA

CAMPIELLO LONGHI

CALLE

AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO

NS

DELL'ORTO

S. L R I O T E R À CAMPO

CAMPO SAN GEREMIA

PRIULI

Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia

ITTICO MERCATO DIREZIONE

SE

FO

ER LE P

SE

TRONCHETTO

CAMPIELLO P I AV E

FONDAMENTA

TA

Museo Ebraico CAL

A E M

CALLE

DEL

EN

CANNAREGIO

CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO

LL

NOVA

AM

San Girolamo

CA

ISOLA

TRONCHETTO

Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo

Sant'Alvise

CAMPO S A N T ' A LV I S E

ND

INE

DEL

ZZ

CALLE

PU

SAVORGNAN

MATTIA

CA

PISCINA

LE

FO

LE

O

SAN

DE

AM

L’ARCO

TA

OL

CALLE

EN

DE

AM

N G IR

SAN

ND

SA

Palazzo Nani FONDAMENTA

VECCHIA

TA

LLO

RUGA

FO

EN

TE

Palazzo Labia Parco Savorgnan Salone del Tiepolo

DA PONTE

AM

B AT

DOGE

ND

TA

CALLE

FORNER

EN

CAMPIELLO TRAGHETTO

DEL

AM

SEBASTIANO

CALLE

FO

ND

CANNAREGIO

di Cannaregio

CAMPO SAFFA

Parcheggio Bus Turistici

VENEZIA

di Sant'Alvise

Sensa

COLETTI

Canale

GIOBBE

People Mover Venezia

della

CARLO

FO

FONDAMENTA

SAN

San Giobbe

BRAGADIN

NUOVE

Rio

Rio

FOND.A

Ponte dei Tre Archi

FONDAMENTA

VENIER FONDAMENTA

PENITENTI

CANNAREGIO

DEL SABION

LARGA

FONDAMENTA

CAMPIELLO DEL SCARLATTO

CALLE

Monastero "Villa Groggia" Carmelitane Scalze

ROLAMO SACCA SAN GI

CALLE

Santa Maria delle Penitenti

CAMPIELLO DE LA LAVANDER

FONDAMENTA

F O N D A M E N TA

TA’

CORTE

ER

SANT'AGNESE

B

LA

Parco

LI

BRAGADIN

LA

PISCINA

EL

NUOVA ISOLA DEL TRONCHETTO

ISOLA DELLE TRESSE

FAUSTA

Chiesa di San Michele in Isola

D

FONDAMENTA

LE

INCURABILI

A

CALLE ZUCCHERO

VI

C A

FR

AN

VI

A

C

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S. Servolo

VI

A

SA

N

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MA

P

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M

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TA

VI

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IS

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FO

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Tempio Votivo Della Pace Di Venezia

VIA

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LU

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VI

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R

O

VI

A

DE

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SP

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Hundertwasser' Garden

VIA

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NI

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NA

A

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LM

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LO

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VI

GU

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Festival Danza Orientale e Danza del Ventre Venezia

VI

A

VIA

CA

ND

IA

SANDRO

LU

NG

OM

AR

O SE LV

PO

VI

VIA

VIA

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GALLO

DOM

CO

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Convento Delle Figlie Del Cuore Di Gesu'

LIDO DI VENEZIA 100 m

TR

VIA

SANDRO

ISOLA

GALLO

DI LEMNO

LU

Monastero Armeno Mechitarista

ISOLA SAN CLEMENTE

LAZZARETTO VECCHIO

Palazzo del cinema del Lido di Venezia VI

A

M

O

RO

SI

N

I

N

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M O M EL

MB

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Hotel Excelsior Venice

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LU

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DI

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San Giuseppe di Castello O EP IO N IS ON SA 'ANT NT SA DO PALU LLE CA DO PALU LLE CA

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Russia Pavilion

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7 PALAZZO DUCALE

2 PONTE DEI SOSPIRI

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Scuola Navale Militare "Francesco Morosini"

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TEATRO LA FENICE 6 CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE DI SAN ROCCO

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10 MURANO

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Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo

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Japan Pavilion

Top in Town

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United States Pavilion

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Museo Storico Navale di Venezia

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CALLE MONTELLO SAN EL ENA

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w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com  31

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5 STAR DELUXE (L) & 5 STAR Aman Canal Grande Venice Resort Hotel – San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo Baiamonte) • E4 Baglioni Hotel Luna – San Marco, 1243 • F5 Bauer Palazzo (L) – San Marco, 1459 • F5 Belmond Hotel Cipriani (L) – Giudecca, 10 • F6 Ca’ Sagredo (L) – Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99 • E3 Excelsior Venice (L) – Lungomare Marconi, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map Grand Hotel Dei Dogi – Cannaregio, 3500 (Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto) • E2 Hilton Molino Stucky (L) – Giudecca, 810 • C6 Hotel Danieli – Castello, 4196 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • F5 JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa (L) – Isola delle Rose – (Laguna di San Marco) • Off Map Londra Palace – Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4 Metropole – Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149 • G4 Palladio Hotel & SPA – Giudecca, 33 • F5 San Clemente Palace Kempinski (L) – Isola di San Clemente, 1 • Off Map SINA Centurion Palace – Dorsoduro, 173 • F5 The Gritti Palace – Campo Santa Maria del Giglio • E5 The Westin Europa & Regina –San Marco, 2159 • E5 4 STAR & LUXURY RESIDENCES A La Commedia – San Marco, 4596 • E4 Ai Mori d’Oriente – Cannaregio, 3319 (Fondamenta Sensa) • E2 Best Western Premier Collection CHC Continental – Cannaregio, 166 (Rio Terà Lista di Spagna) • D3 Biasutti Hotel – Via Dandolo, 29 – (Lido) • Off Map Bisanzio – Riva degli Schiavoni-Calle della Pietà, 3651 • G4 Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4488 (Calle Goldoni) • F4 Bucintoro – Castello, 2135/a • H5 Carlton On The Grand Canal – Santa Croce 578 • C3 Carnival Palace – Fondamenta di Cannaregio, 929 • C2 Cavalletto & Doge Orselo – San Marco, 1107 (Sotoportego del Cavalletto) • F4 Colombina – Castello, 4416 (Calle del Remedio) • F4 Concordia – San Marco, 367 (Calle Larga San Marco) • F4 Duodo Palace – San Marco, 1887/1888 (Calle Minelli) • D3 Firenze – San Marco, 1490 • F5 Foscari Palace – Cannaregio, 4200/1/2 (Campo Santa Sofia) • E3 Grande Albergo Ausonia & Hungaria – Gran Viale S. M. Elisabetta, 28 (Lido) • Off Map Le Boulevard – Granviale S. Maria Elisabetta, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map Le Ville del Lido – Via Bragadin, 38 (Lido) • Off Map Liassidi Palace – Castello, 3405 (Ponte dei Greci) • G4 L’Orologio Venezia – San Polo, 1777 (Riva del l’Ogio) • E3 Locanda Vivaldi – Castello, 4150/52 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4 Monaco & Grand Canal – San Marco, 1332 (Calle Vallaresso) • F5 Nani Mocenigo Palace – Dorsoduro, 960 (Fondamenta Nani) • D5

NH Collection Palazzo Barocci –San Marco, 3878/A (Corte dell’Albero) • E4 Palace Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4680 (Calle dei Fabbri) • F4 Palazzetto Pisani Boutique Resort – San Marco, 2814 • E5 Palazzo Giovanelli – Santa Croce, 2070 (Campo San Stae) • E3 Palazzo Guardi – Dorsoduro, 995 • D5 Palazzo Stern – Dorsoduro, 2792/A • D5 Palazzo Veneziano – Dorsoduro, 1413 • D5 Pesaro Palace – Cannaregio, 3935 (Calle Ca’ D’oro) • E3 Petit Palais Venice – Lungomare Marconi, 54 (Lido) • Off Map Principe – Cannaregio, 146 (Lista di Spagna) • D3 Quattro Fontane – Via Quattro Fontane, 16 (Lido) • Off Map Rialto – San Marco, 5149 (Riva del Ferro) • F4 Royal San Marco – Santa Croce, 578 • F4 Russo Palace Hotel – Riviera San Nicolò, 11/a (Lido) • Off Map Ruzzini Palace – Castello, 5866 (Campo di Santa Maria Formosa) • F4 San Marco Palace – Piazza San Marco, 875 • F4 Santa Chiara – Santa Croce, 548 • C3 Santa Marina – Castello, 6068 (Calle Seco Marina) • F4 Saturnia & International – San Marco, 2399 • E5 SINA Palazzo Sant’Angelo – San Marco, 3878/B – 3488 • E4 Starhotels Splendid Venice – San Marco, 760 (San Marco Mercerie) • F4 Torre Dell’ Orologio - San Marco Luxury Venice – San Marco, 288 • F4 Una Hotel Venezia – Cannaregio, 4173 (Ruga Do Pozzi) • F3 Villa Laguna – Via Sandro Gallo, 6 – (Lido) • Off Map Villa Mabapa – Riviera San Nicolò, 16 (Lido) • Off Map Villa Pannonia – Via Doge Michiel, 48 – (Lido) • Off Map BOUTIQUE & CHARME HOTELS TOP Ai Cavalieri di Venezia – Castello, 6108 (Calle Borgolocco) • F4 Ai Due Principi – Castello, 4972 (Fondamenta de l'Osmarin) • G5 Ai Reali di Venezia – Castello, 5527 (Campo della Fava) • F4 Aqua Palace – Castello, 5492/a (Calle de la Malvasia) • F4 Ca Maria Adele – Dorsoduro, 111 • E5 Ca’ Nigra Lagoon Resort – Santa Croce, 927 • D3 Canal Grande – Santa Croce, 932 • D3 Dei Dragomanni – San Marco, 2711 • E5 Flora – San Marco, 2283/a • E4 Heureka – Cannaregio, 3534 • E2 La Calcina – Dorsoduro, 789 (Zattere) • D6 Moresco – Dorsoduro, 3499 (Fondamenta del Passamonte) • D4 Palazzetto Madonna – San Polo, 2902 • D4 Palazzina G – San Marco, 3247 • D4 Palazzo Abadessa – Cannaregio, 4011 (Calle Priuli) • E3 Palazzo Barbarigo sul Canal Grande – San Polo, 2765 (Calle Corner) • E4 Palazzo Paruta – San Marco, 3824 • E4

Palazzo Priuli – Fondamenta de l'Osmarin, 4979 • G4 Palazzo Venart – S. Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron) • E3 CLASSIC Ad Place Venice – San Marco, 2557/A (Fondamenta della Fenice) • E5 Al Ponte Antico – Cannaregio, 5768 (Calle dell’Aseo) • F3 Antiche Figure – Santa Croce, 687 • C3 Antico Doge – Cannaregio, 5643 • F3 Arcadia – Cannaregio, 1333 (Rio Terà S. Leonardo) • D2 Belle Arti – Dorsoduro, 912/A (Rio Terrà Foscarini) • D5 Bloom B&B – San Marco, 3470 • E4 Ca’ del Campo – San Marco, 511 (Campo della Guerra) • F4 Ca’ Gottardi – Cannaregio, 2283 • E3 Ca’ Pagan – San Marco, 3268 (Calle delle Carrozze) • D4 Casa Verardo – Castello, 4765 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo) • F4 Charming House – Dorsoduro, 724 (San Vio) • E5 Corte di Gabriela – San Marco, 3836 (Calle Avvocati) • E4 Le Isole – Castello, 4661 (Campo San Provolo) • G4 Locanda Ca’ del Brocchi – Dorsoduro, 470 (Rio Terà San Vio) • E5 Locanda de la Spada – San Marco, 2488/a • E5 Locanda Fiorita – San Marco, 3457/a (Campiello Novo) • E4 Novecento – San Marco, 2683 (Calle Dose) • E5 Oltre il Giardino – San Polo, 2542 • D4 Palazzo Barbarigo sul Canal Grande – San Polo, 2765 (Calle Corner) • E4 Santa Chiara – Santa Croce, 548 • C3 Villa Ines – Via Lazzaro Mocenigo, 10 (Lido) • Off Map OUT OF TOWN 4 STAR & LUXURY RESIDENCES Alexander – Via Forte Marghera , 193/C – Mestre (Ve) Antony Hotel – Via Orlanda, 182 – Mestre (Ve) Antony Palace Hotel – Via E. Mattei, 26 – Marcon (Ve) Best Western Hotel Airvenice – Via G. Pascoli, 1 – Quarto d’Altino (Ve) Best Western Hotel Bologna – Via Piave, 214 – Mestre (Ve) Best Western Plus Quid Hotel Venice Airport – Via Terraglio, 15 – Mestre (Ve) Best Western Titian Inn Hotel Venice Airport – Via Orlanda, 240/244 – Tessera (Ve) Courtyard by Marriott Venice Airport – Via Triestina, 170 – Tessera (Ve) Hilton Garden Inn Venice Mestre San Giuliano – Via Orlanda, 1 – Mestre (Ve) NH Laguna Palace – Viale Ancona, 2 – Mestre (Ve) VENIC E CI

TY GU IDE ®

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