ALL YOU CAN DO IN THE CITY
FEBRUARY 2017 THE MONTHLY GUIDE TO
Venice
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II W H E R E V E N I C E I F E B R UA R Y 2017
Venice February 2017 12
the guide
FOCUS
22 SHOPPING
BAGARON
Live your dream with Antonia Sautter’s Venetian masks and costumes
C A M PA LT O
MESTRE
34 DINING
52 22
Parco San Giuliano
For a romantic candle-lit dinner, head to the Bistrot de Venise restaurant
ENTERTAINMENT
44 SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS
SHOPPING
Discover the largest historic collection of Murano glass at Palazzo Giustinian
ISOLA DI TES
52 ENTERTAINMENT
Venice offers several of the most romantic settings in the world...
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Palazzo Querini Stampalia
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Santa Sofia
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Palazzo Fortuny
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Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo
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CAL LE
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DAM
RA
A
LON
RIO
LE
Giudecca Hilton
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San Tomà
A
IA
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TE
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CAL
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Abazia della Misericordia D
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TA
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LA
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DE
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NT AR
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lla
San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale
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CALL
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TERÀ
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N
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DAM SALIZA
CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI
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LA
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EN
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TTO
NI
AM
LE
CALL
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AR
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LE
TRA
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CANAL RIO TERA’
CA
Istituto Universitario Di Architettura
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de
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Angelo Raffaele
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LE
E
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CAL
LA
N
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LE
CAL
CAMPO SAN PANTALON
CALLE
NTA
RE
NIC SAN
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CAL
DE LA VIDA
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DE
LA
CIM
N
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a
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LE
MENTA
CALLE CONTARINA
ME
TA DE
TA
LE
DE
DAR O
A SAN
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TER
CAL
I
DA
AMEN
AMEN
MATTA DI CA’
DE
Rio
R
Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale
San Giacomo dall'Orio
RUGA BELA
CALLE ORSETTI
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CALLE DE LA LACA
C.
RAM
CALL
FONDA
Miser
FO
CAMPO SAN ROCCO IZAD
della
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SAL
O
RAG
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FOND
CAMPIELLO LONGHI
TA
O
BASEG
RAMO
CAMPO NAZARIO SAURO
TI
CALLE DEL MAGAZEN
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OT
EN
CALLE DELL'OLIO
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en
DE
CALLE CAZZA
CALLE SAVIO
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TOR
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Ma
Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola
DEL
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ENT A MIN
IA
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LE
CH
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STAY IN TOUCH
12 IT'S CARNIVAL!
Information and tips to experience the best that Venice has to offer
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"Il Ballo del Doge" at Palazzo Pisani Moretta, organized every year by Antonia Sautter. © Antonia Sautter
This month's round-up of shows, art exhibitions, concerts and performances
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Contents
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FEBRUARY 2017 THE MONTHLY GUIDE TO
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Ladies and Gentlemen, congratulations! You are in a unique city, and you’ve also managed to score a front-row view during the year’s most exciting time. It’s Carnival time! A month packed with festive events, fashion shows, travelling plays and masked balls. The entire city is alive with activities and, as you will notice, hundreds of Venetians and visitors wander around wearing masks. But, don’t be alarmed: even the most astonishing creatures, with their feathered headdresses and unrecognizable faces, have no intention of harming you! They are simply celebrating an age-old festivity, one of the Lagoon’s most deeply-rooted traditions, and a marvelous opportunity to admire the skills of Venetian artisans. On the pages of this issue and on our website, you can find detailed information about the program, but bear in mind that the first part of the month is dedicated to mask-making, with the Carnival Village in St. Mark’s Square; the middle of the month is all about propitiatory rituals (the traditional ‘Festa delle Marie’ or ‘Festival of the Twelve Marys’, and the first masked balls at Palazzi), while the end of the month, coinciding this year with the so-called ‘Settimana Grassa’, marking the end of Carnival, involves parades, the best masked costume contest and the most exclusive balls. But, if you have come from another planet and booked a stay in Venice during this period, and don’t know about Carnival, or if some business has brought you to Venice, and you hate chaos and masks, don’t worry, our insiders have prepared a small Carnival survivor’s manual for you. However, you’re still in time to take part in the festivities. In the end, as the ancient Romans, who actually invented Carnival, said ‘Once every year it is legitimate to go crazy…’ Elena Binda, Editor w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 3
[ SIGHTSEEING]
Top in town
Palazzo Ducale
BASILICA DI SAN MARCO This is the most important Catholic church in the city, and one of the most important monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1000; inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. PONTE DEI SOSPIRI A Baroque bridge that once connected Palazzo Ducale to the prisons. The Bridge of Sighs is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. It can be accessed when visiting Palazzo Ducale.
4 W H E R E V E N I C E I F E B R UA R Y 2017
CANAL GRANDE Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the main waterway of Venice. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO The external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell of Palazzo Contarini - an exquisite, late Gothic building - is enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can
be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. TEATRO LA FENICE Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries La Fenice theatre has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE DI SAN ROCCO A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was
MORE AT PAGE 45 called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures. PALAZZO DUCALE A masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, it features a number of different and intricate architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it is superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto.
PHOTO © DANIMISRA
Canal Grande
Piazza San Marco with the Basilica and the Tower
Ponte dei Sospiri
EDITOR'S TIPS
THE GHETTO The Jewish ghetto of Venice, the first ever, was established in 1516. It is located in a secluded sestiere of Cannaregio and is celebrating its 500th anniversary. A walk through ‘calli’, ‘campi’ and ‘campielli’’ allows visitors to soak up a magical, cocoon-like atmosphere that brings to mind Shakespeare’s play the ‘Merchant of Venice’.
PONTE DI RIALTO This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Originally built during medieval times as a pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. It includes as many as 120 steps.
THE ISLANDS Although the whole of Venice lies on an archipelago, an ‘excursion to the islands’ generally means a half-day cruise on a boat to visit the islands of Murano, Torcello and Burano, three charming, small islands, rich in history and tradition. Visitors love these islands, and there may be a risk of not finding a seat on the boat.
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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES
FROM SATURDAY
11
JOIN IN THE FUN!
At last! Today is the first day marking the official celebrations for Carnival 2017, with festivities lasting until 28 February. As is customary, this year it will once again feature an action-packed program, lasting until the end of the month, with processions on water, masked balls, competitions to elect the best disguise and iconic happenings, renowned throughout the world. The first event commences this evening with the first part of ‘Festa Veneziana sull’acqua’, a performance on the banks of Cannaregio, in which a procession of Carnival-themed boats sail along the canal (at 6pm, with a repeat performance at 8pm). The Festa Veneziana continues on Sunday 12 with a water parade by the Associazioni Remiere and food and wine tastings featuring Venetian specialties (starting at 11am). Prepare your mask and get ready to join in the fun! Carnevale di Venezia Venice and surrounding areas For a detailed program, read our Focus on page 12, visit our website www.where-venice.com or consult the official Carnival website at www.carnevale.venezia.it
FEBRUARY
HOT DATES Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating tradition, art and music or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates.
6 W H E R E V E N I C E I F E B R UA R Y 2017
© SHUTTERSTOCK
FEBRUARY
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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES
MONDAY
27 WEDNESDAY
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PEGGY GUGGENHEIM CELEBRATES ITALIAN ART
▲ Featuring over ninety works, this muchawaited retrospective marks the return to Venice of Tancredi Parmeggiani (1926–1964), among the most original and prolific Italian painters of the second half of the twentieth century. Tancredi was the only artist, after Jackson Pollock, whom Peggy Guggenheim placed under contract, promoting his work and organizing shows, including one in her own home, Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, in 1954. More than sixty years on, Tancredi returns to Palazzo Venier dei Leoni with this retrospective exhibition which, through a selection of exceptional paintings, reconstructs the brief and convulsive career of this great postwar artist. Until 13 March.
My Weapon Against the Atom Bomb is a Blade of Grass. Tancredi. A Retrospective Collezione Peggy Guggenheim. Dorsoduro, 701 (Palazzo Venier dei Leoni). www.guggenheim-venice.it
► Last week to visit ‘Around Klimt. Judith, Heroism and Seduction’, an exhibition marking the launch of a series of initiatives designed to promote the extraordinary heritage of artworks preserved at Venice’s Civic Museums. Focusing on one of the most fascinating legends of biblical tradition, the exhibition features more than 80 works revolving around the theme of Gustav Klimt’s gloriously erotic masterpiece, Judith II (Salome), on loan from Ca’ Pesaro for the occasion. This powerful 20th century icon, created by the renowned Viennese artist and presented at the International Art Biennale in 1910, has inspired a series of ancient and contemporary imagery. Until 5 March
Attorno a Klimt. Giuditta, eroismo e seduzione Mestre, Centro Culturale Candiani Piazza Luigi Candiani, 7 candiani.comune.venezia.it - www.visitmuve.it
FRIDAY
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A UNIQUE PERFORMANCE
◄ This evening (8.30pm), Massimiliano Finazzer Flory (see photo), director and actor, will perform a dramatic reading from “La nuvola in calzoni” poem, dedicated to the life and poetry of the renowned Russian poet and playwright Vladimir Majakovsky. The performance will then travel to Milan, Rome, St. Petersburg and Moscow.
Majakovskij a voi! by Massimiliano Finazzer Flory Università Ca’ Foscari, Auditorium Santa Margherita. Dorsoduro, 3689 www.finazzerflory.com 8 W H E R E V E N I C E I F E B R UA R Y 2017
GUSTAV KLIMT, GIUDITTA II (SALOMÉ, 1909 ). CA' PESARO - GALLERIA INTERNAZIONALE D’ARTE MODERNA.
20TH CENTURY ARTISTIC IMAGERY
FEBRUARY SATURDAY
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THE FORCE OF NATURE
► The appeal of the Arctic region, an awareness of topics related to environmental sustainability and climate change are the themes explored in ‘Arctico. The Final Frontier’. The exhibition features 120 black and white images by Paolo Solari Bozzi (Rome, 1957), Ragnar Axelsson (Iceland, 1958) and Carsten Egevang (Denmark, 1969), three masters of photo reporting whose work explores the landscapes and people of Greenland, Siberia, Alaska and Iceland. Until 2 April. The exhibition is set against the spectacular backdrop of "Casa dei Tre Oci", a splendid example of early 20th century Venetian architecture and a building which, as such, has been declared a monument of historical and artistic interest in the Veneto region.
© PAOLO SOLARI BOZZI, SERMILIK FJORD, GREENLAND, 2016
Artico. The Final Frontier Casa dei Tre Oci Giudecca - Fondamenta delle Zitelle, 43 Open daily 10am-6pm (closed on Tues) www.treoci.org © CARSTEN EGEVANG, WEST GREENLAND, THULE, 2013
© RAGNAR AXELSSON, ICELAND, 2016
UNTIL TUESDAY
28
THE FANTASTIC UNIVERSE OF HAN MEILIN ◄ Exhibited for the first time in Europe, the exhibition by Han Meilin (1936), the only Chinese artist ever to be named a ‘UNESCO Artist for Peace’, ends today. Showcasing more than 200 masterpieces, on loan from museums in Beijing, Hangzhou and Yinchuan, Meilin’s works feature an unmistakable imprinting and are inspired by ancient Chinese civilization reinterpreted in a contemporary key. Free admission.
The World of Han Meilin in Venice Ca’ Foscari Esposizioni Dorsoduro, 3246 www.unive.it Reservation compulsory at cafoscaritour@unive.it
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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES ANNUAL EVENTS IN VENICE JANUARY New Year’s Eve Concert > Arias and operatic selections at La Fenice Opera House. FEBRUARY Carnival of Venice > Shows, masked parades and music in ‘calli’, squares and palaces. APRIL Festa di San Marco / Feast of St. Mark > (25 April) In addition to being a national holiday, on 25 April Venetians also celebrate Saint Mark’s day. Venice Night Trial > (29 April) Urban trail run 16 km through the historical centre of Venice. MAY Festa della Sensa (or Ascension festivity 27-28 May) > A masked parade in St. Mark’s Square to celebrate the Serenissima and the ‘Sposalizio del Mare’ (Marriage of the Sea) ceremony JUNE/JULY Vogalonga (4 June) > 43rd edition of the 30 km rowing marathon through S. Erasmo, S. Francesco del deserto, Burano, Mazzorbo, Murano and the Grand Canal. The competition is open to the public. Biennale of Art “VIVA ARTE VIVA” (13 May-26 November, Arsenale and Giardini) > 57th international exhibition of Contemporary Art Biennale of Dance > (23 June-1 July) Feast of San Piero de Casteo > An end-of-June festivity to celebrate the arrival of summer: the focal point of the event is the Island of San Pietro di Castello. JULY/AUGUST Festa del Redentore / Feast of the Redeemer > (16 July) One of Venice’s best loved festivals, the event features a parade of boats in the Giudecca and fireworks. Biennale of Theatre (25 July-12 August) AUGUST/SEPTEMBER International Exhibition of Cinematographic Art > (30 August-9 September) Now in its 74th consecutive year, the exhibition is organized by the Biennale of Venice. SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER Regata Storica / Historic Regatta (3 September) > One of Venice’s foremost rowing competitions, it is preceded by a spectacular parade of historic 16th century craft. Biennale of Music (29 September-8 October) Venice Marathon (22 October) NOVEMBER Festa della Salute > 21 November A popular religious feast day. DECEMBER Christmas Concert at St. Mark’s basilica 10 W H E R E V E N I C E I F E B R UA R Y 2017
FROM THURSDAY
16 ON THE STAGE OF VENICE ▲ Among the most famous and widely performed operas in the world, Giacomo Puccini’s La Bohème was staged for the first time at the Teatro Regio in Turin. Conducted by the then twenty-nine year-old Arturo Toscanini, it was well received by the audience but condemned by the critics. Currently showing at the La Fenice Opera House in Venice, it is based on the 2011 adaptation by director Francesco Micheli, with stage sets by Edoardo Sanchi and costumes by Silvia Aymonino. Set in colourful, decadent Belle Epoque Paris, the opera, scheduled to run for ten evenings, is supertitled in Italian and English.
La Bohème, Giacomo Puccini La Fenice Opera House San Marco, 1965 (Campo San Fantin) www.teatrolafenice.it
WEDNESDAY
8
THE FASCINATION OF WATER ▲ When visiting the T Fondaco dei Tedeschi for a spot of shopping, don’t miss ‘Under Water’, the evocative installation by Fabrizio Plessi on stage at the Event Pavilion. This site specific project created by the internationally renowned artist is a tribute that blends art with technology and history. Resembling a giant Byzantine mosaic, just like art, which according to Plessi is fluid, ever-changing and dream-like, it undulates softly thanks to the gentle, almost elastic motion of the water. Until 2 April.
Under Water by Fabrizio Plessi Event Pavilion T Fondaco dei Tedeschi top floor Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi - Ponte di Rialto www.tfondaco.com - www.fabrizioplessi.net
WHERE NOW | FOCUS
It’s Carnival! Up until 9 February, St. Mark's will once more become an 18th century square, a one-of-a-kind place where artisan workshops produce amazing costumes. Then, from the 11th to the 28th, the city will come alive with parades, concerts, performances and grand balls. Get ready to join in the fun! BY ELENA BINDA
T
here are times when a city reveals its real soul. These comprise events involving months of preparation, which the locals consider a part of their identity. Ultimately they manage to transform these into occasions of such importance that they attract visitors from all over the world. Like the Palio in Siena or the Jubilee in Rome, Carnival in Venice is the highlight of the year. Among the most celebrated carnivals in the world, it offers delighted tourists dozens of events, concerts, balls, performances and parades (for more detailed information visit the official carnevale.venezia.it website or venice-carnival.org). In fact the city is packed to overflowing and prices soar sky high, but the beauty and poetry of Carnival are definitely worth it. Prepare your masks and enjoy the party! ANCIENT ROOTS The history of Carnival is both recent and ancient. It was only during the second half of the 20th century that the Carnival of Venice became an event that attracted sponsors and television stations. However, the origins of the festival date back to ancient times. In Greek and Roman society there were periods during which people were allowed to take liberties denied to them during the rest of the year. Protected by masks, poor people were allowed to make fun of the rich without being punished: the Romans used to say ‘semel in anno licet insanire’ (‘once every year it is legitimate to go crazy’), while according to an Italian proverb ‘a Carnevale ogni scherzo vale’ (‘at Carnival anything goes!’). This reversal of the rules was an invaluable outlet used by the authorities to keep the populace content. Later, when Christianity took over, the festival was transformed into the last 12 W H E R E V E N I C E I F E B R UA R Y 2017
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PHOTO ©BYSHUTTERSTOCK DELFINO SISTO LEGNANI AND MARCO CAPPELLETTI © DFS GROUP.JPG PHOTO
WHERE NOW | FOCUS
PHOTO COURTESY VELA SPA
FAITES VOS JEUX The Official Dinner Show and Ballo del Carnevale di Venezia 2017 will be held at Ca’ Vendramin Calergi, the headquarters of the Casino. Not just a dinner, not just a masked ball, not just a performance and not just an evening dedicated to gaming, but all of these things rolled into one. The event (from 9pm to 2.30am) will be repeated on different dates between 18 and 28 February. Ticket prices range from €400 to €500 per person. Info at www.casinovenezia.it.
period of merrymaking prior to Lent, which is the period of repentance preceding Easter. Although dates differ slightly, Carnival is celebrated in all Catholic countries. It has retained the original custom of wearing masks, with the addition, over time, of numerous other rituals. In Venice, this festival acquired increasing importance during the golden age of the Repubblica Serenissima. The festivities were highlighted by the many symbols that marked Venice’s success as a maritime power. These symbols included the ‘fireworks’ discovered by Marco Polo in China, and the many influences from the East portrayed in costumes emulating those worn by Moors, Turks and Tartars encountered during explorations around the world. The Doges used the opulence of the festivities as a measure of their power, and thus, these celebrations became even more grandiose. Artisans adept at working leather, textiles, wood or glass used Carnival as a proving ground to hone and demonstrate their skills: costumes and footwear, masks and stage sets became increasingly elaborate and impressive, and continue to be a triumphant part of Venice’s cultural heritage. THE “FABRICA” OF 18TH CENTURY WORKSHOPS What do you do in Venice in the days leading up to Carnival? You make preparations 14 W H E R E V E N I C E I F E B R UA R Y 2017
naturally! For this reason, from 30 January to 9 February, an example of 18th century Venice, a golden age for the city and its festival, is resurrected in St. Mark’s Square. Atelier Pietro Longhi, Atelier Nicolao, Tessitura Luigi Bevilacqua, Tessuti Fortuny and the Politecnico Calzaturiero, the best textile manufacturers, shoemakers, costume makers and ‘mascareri’ (mask-makers) gather in a sort of ‘Carnival village’, a combination of toy land, and an historic re-enactment for those in search of unique disguises. Costumes can be made to measure (this refers to precious artisanal creations, recreated with philological accuracy), or hired (prices range from 180 to 600 euros a day for him and up to 6,000 euros for her). The Square is also inundated with carpenters and stone cutters, glass and gondola makers: no traditional craft has ever been excluded from Carnival! ST. MARK’S SQUARE, THE HEART OF THE FESTIVAL This year, the festival loved by Giacomo Casanova, Princess Sissi, Goldoni, Wagner, George Sand and Lord Byron, once again boasts an events calendar that will not disappoint. Festivities start on Saturday, 11 February with the Festa Veneziana sull’Acqua, a performance of lights and sound held on the banks of Cannaregio (repeated on Sunday 12, see page 6).
Saturday 18 February is the day dedicated to the ‘Twelve Marys’, an ancient tradition that involves choosing the most beautiful costumed girl. In olden days, a young woman of the people won a marriage dowry, but today the lucky winner has the honour of being crowned the ‘Angel’ of next year’s Carnival. The ‘Volo dell’Angelo’ (Flight of the Angel), one of Carnival’s most eagerly awaited events, takes places on Sunday 19 February at midday, when a young girl wearing traditional costume ‘flies’ from the top of St. Mark’s bell tower to a stage on the opposite side of the square. The girl, who is strapped to a safety harness, is welcomed in total silence by crowds, often numbering as many as 80,000 revelers, who have gathered in the square to watch the event. On Saturday 18 February, the first contest for the ‘most beautiful mask’ kicks off in St. Mark’s Square. The contest is open to anyone wishing to parade their mask on the stage set up in the square (although participation is free, contestants are required to download and complete the form available online at www.carnevale.venezia.it, which also provides detailed information regarding all Carnival activities). This contest takes place several times a day throughout the Carnival period. Qualifications for the grand finale, scheduled to be held on Sunday 26 February, take place from 23 to 25 February. The winner is
PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK
nominated by those gathered in the square, guaranteeing fun and entertainment for everyone. Non-competitive parades continue after the grand finale until Shrove Tuesday with two events dedicated to children on the 27th, and one dedicated to adults on the 28th. From 18 to 28 February, visitors can participate in the ‘Secrets of Venice’ event, a traveling show for the whole family, featuring several performances a day in Italian, English and French, chronicling the history of Carnival. Tickets: €29. Info at www.venice-carnival.org. DAMES AND KNIGHTS: CARNIVAL BALLS For many, the ‘Grand Carnival Ball’ is a dream come true, and thus deserves a separate mention. Midway between a historic re-enactment and a dinner show, a traditional date and an exclusive party, the ‘grand ball’ is an integral part of Carnival. In the past, these balls were organized by the Doges or the city’s noble families to entertain their guests, while today they have become an opulent means of celebration for Venetians and an almost irresistible attraction for tourists. Although different versions exist (they are all sought-after and expensive, with average prices starting at around €500 per person, and tickets to the most exclusive balls going for as much as €800), one rule applies to all of them: wearing a costume is compulsory (as previously mentioned,
hiring options abound and the organizers themselves often suggest addresses). This year’s official ball, at Ca’ Vendramin Calergi (the seat of the Casino of Venice, info at www.carnevale.venezia.it), is called ‘The Gallery of Wonders’, and is held on several different dates. However, the most soughtafter of all is the ‘Il Ballo del Doge’. Now in its 24th consecutive year, it is organized by Antonia Sautter and, as always, is also held on several different dates at Palazzo Pisani Moretta. Other balls include the ‘Casanova Grand Ball’ at Palazzo Zen, the ‘Mascheranda’, the ‘Tiepolo’ at Palazzo Pisani Moretta (www.antoniasautter.it), the ‘Carnival in Love’ at Palazzo Benzon (organized by www.sognovenezianoatelier. com) and the ‘Minuetto Gran Gala’ at Palazzo Albrizzi. Several hotels also organize sumptuous parties including the Hotel Monaco & Grand Canal with its ‘Carnival Extravaganza’ and ‘Minuetto al Ridotto’, and the Hotel Splendid Venice with the ‘Ultimo Valzer a Venezia’. For detailed information visit the www.venice-carnival.org website or ask your concierge.
PLAN B But what happens if you hate Carnival, or have been brought to Venice on urgent business during this period? Well, there’s no point hiding it, you’re in for a few rough days. The city is packed with people, St. Mark’s Square is almost inaccessible and prices are sky high. However, Where® has an alternative plan for you. Read our small survivor’s guide (pages 16-17). Or…join in the fun! As the ancient Romans used to say, going crazy once a year is legitimate!
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WHERE NOW | FOCUS
A survivor’s guide to Carnival Here are some tips from two genuine Venetians to help you avoid the most crowded areas during these crazy February days: behind the mask, it’s always Venice!
PHOTO: DIDIER DESCOUENS
BY ELENA BINDA
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hoosing areas not packed with tourists, staying as far away as possible from St. Mark’s Square and the most crowded shopping districts, taking refuge in a quiet gallery or visiting a museum, finding atmospheric venues known only to locals, enjoying an unusual shopping experience: these survival guidelines are known to all Venetians, but – obviously – should appeal to individual tastes. Where® offers you two alternatives which you can enjoy at leisure, whether you want to completely avoid Carnival (which frankly, is a rather ambitious undertaking…) or simply take a break from all the confusion. Here are some insider tips to save you from the madding crowd. 16 W H E R E V E N I C E I F E B R UA R Y 2017
STEFANO TRAINE MARKETING MANAGER A ‘cultural’ break is a good escape option: the program offered by the padiglioni dell'Arsenale is always interesting (in addition to historic craft, its pavilions also host plays and exhibitions, see arsenale. comune.venezia.it). If the weather is good, the ideal place for a walk is the ‘Zattere’ area (sestiere Dorsoduro, along the Giudecca Canal): from the Pinault Museum in Punta della Dogana, to San Basilio, you can enjoy an aperitivo on its terraces or pier, while watching the ships go by. When it comes to eateries, you’ll be spoilt for choice. Our picks include the Linea d'Ombra, the Cantinone Schiavi, whose ‘cicchetti’ are truly noteworthy, or La Piscina, Agli Alboretti and the Ristoteca Oniga in Campo
San Barnaba… If you continue a little further inland, you’ll reach Campo Santa Margherita, with its old coffee bars. ROMENA BRUGNEROTTO TOURIST ADVISOR Tip number one. Avoid taking any public transport that passes along the Grand Canal! Take advantage of the external lines to get around (vaporettos 4.1, 4.2 and 6) or travel on foot, making sure to circumvent St. Mark’s Square and the main thoroughfares. For a pleasant outing, head to Cannaregio, where the presence of the Jewish Ghetto, which celebrated its 500th anniversary this year, makes the tradition of Carnival less noticeable. To find a little peace without foregoing the joy of taking fabulous pictures overlooking the Grand Canal, take shelter inside the Ca’
D’oro, a beautiful, late Gothic palazzo that hosts a spectacular art gallery. Indulge in a few hours of relaxation for the mind and the body at the spa of the Boscolo Hotel Dei Dogi. Do something unconventional, like having an aperitivo at the Fondamenta della Misericordia: one of the best-loved venues in this area is Al Timon. However, be sure to go there at lunchtime, because it gets very crowded in the afternoon. The same area is also home to the newly opened l’Osteria Giorgione: Anna, the sommelier, will help you choose the perfect wine. And, if you want to take home a souvenir of your narrow escape, stop in at PlumPlum Creation and indulge in a beautiful engraving, a small painting or even just a postcard featuring original images of Venice: it will be fun to look at or to give as a gift on your return home.
PHOTO: DIDIER DESCOUENS
OASES OF PEACE On the previous page, the Ca’ d’Oro in the sestiere of Cannaregio. Although its façade overlooking the Grand Canal is one of the best-known in Venice, the interior of the palazzo, which hosts a remarkable art gallery, is never very crowded. Above, a magical view of Punta della Dogana, with a profile of the Basilica of Santa Maria della Salute in the background. On the right, the Arsenale which, in addition to housing relics of the Maritime Republic of Venice, also hosts interesting temporary exhibitions.
Santa Croce
Isola di San Michele
Jewish Ghetto Ca' d'Oro
San Polo
Giudecca
Grand Canal
Cannaregio
Dorsoduro San Marco
Fondamenta della Misericordia Arsenale
Castello
Zattere Giudecca Canal Punta della Dogana Campo San Barnaba Campo Santa Margherita
Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore
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WHERE NOW | CARNIVAL
GIFT
GUIDE During the time of the year dedicated to masked balls and Carnival parades, the whole city comes alive with themed activities. Boutiques and artisanal shops are dressed with glittering window displays. Where ® brings you a pick of several of the most original handcrafted items that make this city unique, pieces that can be taken home as a souvenir of the magical atmosphere of the Lagoon.
► VETRERIA DUCALE Specializing in precious glass objects for lighting, mirrors, sculptures and tableware, this Muranobased company manufactures unique pieces based on in-depth research. Entirely handcrafted by master glassmakers, like these coloured vases, they are available in contemporary or antique versions. www.ducalemurano.com
▼ EMI BOUTIQUE Located in Calle della Mandola, in the sestiere of San Marco, Emi Boutique offers priceless collectors’ masks. This ‘wall mask’ mask is part of a collection inspired by 17th century Venice with Parisian influences. It is entirely handcrafted in papier-mache with fabrics that conjure up antique Venetian brocades.
▲ VETRERIA ESTEVAN ROSSETTO 1950 Renowned for their exquisite artistic glass, Vetreria Estevan Rossetto has been producing priceless glassware collections for decades. Guided tours to the family’s furnace in Murano are organized daily. Shown here is a set of clowns. www.rossettomuranoglass.com
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▼ POP ART-GALLERY Featuring authentic Murano glass pearls, this jewelry is the perfect gift for those wishing to take home a touch of Venetian craftsmanship. They can be purchased at the Pop Art-Gallery, located just steps from the Academy (Dorsoduro, 880/B-C. San Vio).
▲ CA’ MACANA This unique ‘Face Betty3’ mask is crafted by one of the oldest and finest mask-making workshops in Venice. An innovative rendition of Venetian artisanal tradition, interpreted with style and meticulous attention to detail. www.camacana.com
◄ SOGNO VENEZIANO ATELIER Experience all the glamour of Carnival with masks and period costumes that exalt the city’s magical, mysterious atmosphere. High-quality tailoring and craftsmanship, enhanced by a decidedly creative touch are the hallmark features of this atelier. www.sognovenezianoatelier.com
▼ LA CERAMICA Called ‘Mexico’, this brightly-coloured set of original Bassano del Grappa ceramic pieces is handmade according to ancient tradition. San Polo, 1160 (Campo San Aponal).
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WHERE NOW | ITINERARY
The island of Burano In addition to Murano and Torcello, this island on the Venetian Lagoon should not be missed. Loved (and widely photographed) by tourists, it is famous for its colourful houses, butter biscuits and above all, its handcrafted lace. By Stefano Traine
Zilli
POCKET BURANO You can also take the houses of Burano home as a souvenir. On the island you can find a number of artisans specializing in the reproduction of brightly coloured, miniature districts. However, the noblest craft of all is the lace-making. The lace made here is truly an example of an ancient art!
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A little less famous than its twin, Murano - the island of glass, with which it is often confused, due to the similar names (only the first letter changes), lace, in no way inferior to its sibling’s blown glass, has made tiny Burano famous. With a population of only three thousand inhabitants, its colourful houses make it is one of the most picturesque places on earth. THE HOUSES Thank heavens for smartphones! The idea of arriving on Burano and realizing that you’ve forgotten your camera could be a catastrophe. The island’s row of houses, whose facades boast all the colours of the
rainbow, are truly spectacular! However, the origin of this tradition of painting the houses in bright colours was not only for aesthetic reasons. Legend has it that its fishermen, often confused by frequent banks of fog (and, truth be told, by the amount of liqueur consumed to keep them warm…), devised a chromatic code that would help them identify their own landing piers more easily after a long day’s fishing. Each colour corresponded to a family, to their house and to their address. BURANO LACE Burano’s brightly-coloured houses are not the only thing worth admiring.
The island is the capital of handmade lace, a craft kept alive for centuries by the wives of fishermen waiting for their husbands to return from sea. The work is extremely exacting, with each woman specializing in a single stitch. Since there are seven stitches in total, each piece is passed from woman to woman to finish. Groups of women work diligently for days to produce items, whether large or small, of matchless beauty: trims for dresses, accessories, tablecloths, gloves, umbrellas and masks, all made from this delicate, white lace, crafted with a painstaking attention to detail that has lasted for centuries. For example, though it can take up to five months to make a rectangular tablecloth for 12 people, the island’s lace makers are now equipped to deliver your item of choice to anywhere in the world. (Please note: since an authentic, handcrafted item takes hours of work, you need to be cautious if the price seems too low. The risk that the lace is not handmade and not even Venetian is now a sad reality). While on the island, make sure to visit the Museum of Lace-Making to understand why something so exquisite should not become extinct (Burano, Piazza Baldassarre Galuppi, 187). BISCUITS AND OTHER SWEET TREATS Butter biscuits known as Buranelli (either ring or S-shaped), are famous on the island and you will be offered them wherever you go. However, this is not the only specialty that you’ll find. The island has a long-standing gastronomic tradition linked, above all, to fresh fish. Here is our pick, among the many, of several historic eateries. Da Romano (famed for its ‘risotto di Gò’); Da Ruggero al Gatto Nero (all the pastas and desserts are made in-house, and the fish is so fresh and delicious that even Jamie Oliver has recommended Al Gatto Nero on his television show); and finally Ai Pescatori e Dal Vecio Pipa. Bon Apetit! HOW TO REACH BURANO One Vaporetto line runs from Venice to Burano: the number 12. The journey lasts for approximately one hour after embarking at the Fondamente Nove stop (the Vaporetto runs at 10 minutes past and 20 minutes to the hour). If you’re not in a hurry, the Venetians recommend another alternative: you can take the 14 line from San Zaccaria (the Pietà stop), which stops at the Lido. It’s a good opportunity to take a look at the venue where the Film Festival is held, and admire the works by MOSE, the huge hydraulic engineering project completed to protect the Lagoon. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 21
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Dream-like costumes As everyone knows, Venice is the city of dreams! Thanks to the splendid period costumes created by Antonia Sautter, it is now possible to make your dream come true. By Stefania Vida
“T
he mixture of my father’s German blood and the Venetian blood from my mother runs through my veins, and I inherited my restless, inquiring spirit from my forefathers. I am an artisan and a dreamer engaged in a never-ending quest in my native city, Venice.” This is how Antonia Sautter, the queen of Venice’s high society, describes herself. The famous ‘Il Ballo del Doge’ (organized every year by Antonia at Palazzo Pisani Moretta) is the most sumptuous of Carnival extravaganzas in Venice. An artistic event, a gala dinner and one of high society’s absolute ‘musts’! Just steps from St. Mark’s Square, the Antonia Sautter Atelier is a magical world filled with all types of masks and costumes. A real hive of couturier activity dedicated to the creation of made-to-measure period costumes, fashionable 22 W H E R E V E N I C E I F E B R UA R Y 2017
clothing and accessories. The exquisite fabrics, sartorial details, prints, embroidery and chromatic pairings skillfully re-elaborated and interpreted by the designer, tell a story of a passion for artisanal tradition. The craftsmanship involved in this process retains the authenticity of the production techniques used to manufacture velvets, damasks, brocades and Venetian silks. In addition, the bags, shoes, scarves, kimonos and fashion accessories are all exclusive pieces, and available for purchase at Venetia Boutiques, close to St. Mark’s Square (San Marco, 1286 - Frezzeria). All products can be customized and delivered worldwide. >> Atelier Antonia Sautter San Marco, 1628 (Calle del Carro) T: 041 2413302/5285967 www.antoniasautter.it
Antonia Sautter
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM
Guidelines ACCESSORIES
The
This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. MAP LOCATIONS- Note that references in bold at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 62-63. TRANSPORT-References to vaporetto lines and stops are based on departure from the Santa Lucia railway station. SHOPPING -Shopping hours are generally from
10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Venice) and on Monday mornings. Ask your concierge. Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.
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TAX-FREE SHOPPING
By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund.
Anatema
Rossana Righini delights customers with her scarves, brooches, costume jewelry, bags, hats and silk, handmade ties. Her windows and display cases express the owner’s philosophy: “The culture of beauty, the magic of elegance”. PASSION TIP Anatema also stocks small Murano glass jewelry. Open daily 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. www.anatema.it. San Polo, 2603. T: 041 5242221. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4
Declare Although the goods sold by this small independent brand are targeted at an international clientele, its owners are true blue Venetians. Its sleek black fitout provides a dramatic backdrop for its sought-after, butter-soft leather bags and accessories handcrafted by artisans using full-grain Tuscan leather. Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. www.declarevenice.com. San Polo, 2671 B/C (Calle Seconda dei Saoneri) T: 041 8223227. Other locations: San Marco 3801 (Calle della Mandola). T: 041 5225559. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Samuele stop). Map D3
Fanny Gloves Colourful, handmade gloves, from the most classic to the most eccentric, lined with cashmere, silk or lapin.
Since 2001, Giorgio Fontanive has continued to run this family-owned business, established by his fatherin-law, a Neapolitan glove maker. The brand recently opened a second branch in Cannaregio, in Rio Terà San Leonardo. Open daily 9.30am-1.30pm/2.30pm7.30pm. www.fannygloves.it. San Polo, 2723 (Calle Saoneri) T. 041 5228266. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D2
Francis Model Stylish, high-quality bags with a focus on colour. Established in 1965, this small artisanal ‘bottega’ has always remained faithful to the diktats of Made in Italy craftsmanship. Located just steps from the Rialto Bridge, Ruggero De Zorzi devotes himself to his craft with pride and passion. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.francismodel.it. San Polo, 773/A (Ruga Ravano). T: 041 5212889. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato stop). Map E3
G. Pagan The result of ongoing research, G. Pagan’s bags and accessories are made from prized materials: crocodile, python and even eel. Everything here is about style, it’s worth a visit! It also has another store in Calle della Mandola. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco, 54 (Sotto le Procuratie). T: 041 5208924. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Map F5
UnionPay Service Hotline: 00 800 800 95516 e-mail: europe@unionpayintl.com
UnionPay is a global payment network originated from China, responsible for the inter-bank payment via UnionPay system worldwide. By June 2016, over 350,000 merchants in Italy accept UnionPay card for payment, among which 30,000 merchants are located in Venice. This allows hundred of thousands of affluent Chinese customers to shop with their favourite cards. UnionPay also actively work with famous retail groups, such as DFS Group, McArthurGlen Designer outlets, SINA hotels, Airport dutyfree shops, to provide special discount or services for UnionPay cardholders. DINING
Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30 € or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. SIGHTSEEING
Information about our selection of museums and monuments is checked as carefully as possible. However, telephone numbers, opening hours, works displayed and site accessibility are subject to change depending on the time of the year, restorations, loans or changes in management. Ask your concierge.
For lovers of style and innovation Just steps from the Rialto Bridge, T Fondaco dei Tedeschi is the newest address for luxury shopping in Venice. Spread out over a surface area of 7,000 square metres, the Fondaco was first constructed in 1228 and has been a part of the city of Venice for as many as eight centuries. In addition to hosting the collections of the most coveted Italian and international fashion brands, accessories, cosmetics and fragrances, this lavish four-story department store will not only be used as a space for events, exhibitions and cultural initiatives but also as a venue designed to promote authentic Venetian craftsmanship. The ground floor atrium of luxury department store is home to AMO, the new exclusive Venetian café/restaurant run by the Alajmo brothers offering a gastronomic experience embodying the real soul of Venice, with its symbols and mysteries (www.alajmo.it/amo). And, to top it all, this stunning historic building, overlooking the Grand Canal, is also a gem of architecture which, per se, is worth a visit! The view from the rooftop terrace is breathtaking. T Fondaco dei Tedeschi by DFS - Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge). www.tfondaco.com. Map F3
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[ FA SHION DESIGNERS]
Luxury Top Brands A new addition every day! The world of designer boutiques in Venice is making waves, and the majority of big-name brands are located around St. Mark’s Square, the great heart of Venice. By heading towards the Accademia from St. Mark’s Square, you will find yourself in Calle Larga XXII Marzo, the widest street in the city, lined with the window displays of the most coveted international brands. A system of ‘calli’ (the word for street in Venetian dialect) known as the ‘Mercerie’ leads from the Clock Tower in St. Mark’s Square to the Rialto, where Venice’s old ‘botteghe’ (workshops) have now been replaced by luxury boutiques.
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From a few months, the world’s most coveted brands have a new home that gathers them all under one roof: T Fondaco dei Tedeschi, the first luxury Venetian department store, located just steps from the Rialto Bridge.
BALENCIAGA—www.balenciaga.com Open daily 10am-7pm. Calle Vallaresso, 1310. T: 041 5230806. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 BORSALINO—www.borsalino.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sun 11am7pm. San Marco, 4822. T: 041 2411945. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto-Riva del Carbon stop). Map F4 BOTTEGA VENETA—www.bottegaveneta. com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. San Marco, 1473 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5205197. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop or S. Maria del Giglio stop). Map F5 CHANEL—www.chanel.com. Open Mon-Sun 10am-7pm. San Marco, 2070 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2405399. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Valleresso stop). Map E5 CHANEL BEAUTY NEW OPENING San Marco, 1254/A. T: 041 2708699. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Valleresso stop). Map F3 CHURCH’S—www.church-footwear.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am7pm. San Marco, 1316 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2410147. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 DAMIANI NEW OPENING www.damiani.com. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5
FENDI—www.fendi.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-7pm. San Marco, 1582 (Calle Frezzaria). T: 041 2778532. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4 FRATELLI ROSSETTI—www.fratellirossetti. com Open daily 10am-7pm. Campo S. Salvador, 4800. T: 041 5230571. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto stop). Map F4 • Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. San Marco, 1477 (San Moisè). T: 041 5220819. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map F5 GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani.com Open Mon- Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. San Marco, 4412 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 8503048. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map F4 • Armani Jeans at Marco Polo Airport. GUCCI—www.gucci.com. Open daily 10am7.30pm. San Marco, 2102 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2413968. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4 • Open daily 10am-7.30pm Piazza San Marco, 258 T: 041 5229119. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Giardinetti stop). Map E5 HERMÈS—italy.hermes.com. Open daily 10.30am-7pm. San Marco, 1292. T: 041 2410715. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map F5
DIOR— www.dior.com Open daily 10am-7pm. Piazza San Marco, 1255 (Calle Larga de I’Ascension). T: 041 2411636. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 DOLCE&GABBANA—www.dolcegabbana.it Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco, 233/266 (corner of Mercerie dell'Orologio). T: 041 5209991. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Giardinetti). Map F4 ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA—www.zegna.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. Bocca di Piazza San Marco, 1241. T: 041 5221204. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4
The ‘Tuileries Besace’ handbag by LOUIS VUITTON mixes monogram canvas with tricolor leather accents for a bold, fashion-forward look. 24 W H E R E V E N I C E I F E B R UA R Y 2017
ETRO—www.etro.com. Open daily 10am7.30pm. San Marco, 1340 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5232599. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5
Inspired by sports and luxury, MISSONI’s winter collection features soft, tailored garments, noble fibers and vibrant colours.
LORO PIANA—www.loropiana.com. Open daily TOD’S—www.tods.com. Mon-Sat 10am7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-1pm/2pm-7pm. 10am-7pm. San Marco Ascensione, 1301. San Marco, 2251 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2770695. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 T: 041 5206603. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 • Marco (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5 Polo Airport, Viale Luigi Broglio, 8 (open 6.30am-9pm). T: 041 5415072. VALENTINO—www.valentino.com Open 6.30am-9pm. Marco Polo Airport. LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com T: 041 2698001. (open 6.30am-9pm). Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 10.30am-8pm. San Marco, 1345. T: 041 5224500. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 MICHAEL KORS—www.michaelkors.com. San Marco, 1461 (Campo San Moisè). T: 041 2960312. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map F5 MISSONI—www.missoni.it. Open daily 10am7.30pm. San Marco, 1312 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5205733. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com. Open daily 10am7.30pm. San Marco, 1471 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 8106066.Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 PRADA—www. prada.com. Open daily 10am7.30pm. San Marco, 1464/1469 (Salizada San Moise). T: 041 5283966. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 RENÉ CAOVILLA— www.renecaovilla.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. San Marco, 1296. T: 041 5238038. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4 ROBERTO CAVALLI— www.robertocavalli.com Open daily 10am-7pm. San Marco, 1314. T: 041 5299020. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 SAINT LAURENT—www.ysl.com. Open MonSat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. San Marco, 1302. T: 041 5202211. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— www.ferragamo.com. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-7pm. San Marco, 2098 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2778509. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5 • Marco Polo Airport. T: 041 268357 (open 6.30am-9pm). TIFFANY & CO. NEW OPENING www.tiffany.it. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5
VERSACE—www.versace.com Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco, 1462 (Campo San Moisè). T: 041 5200057. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 • Marco Polo Airport. T: 041 2611556 (open 6.30am-9pm).
A touch of style distinguishes these nappa MIU MIU booties featuring a heel decorated with Swarovski crystals.
Sizing Women clothes IT EUR US UK 36 32 1 4 38 34 2 6 40 36 4 8 42 38 6 10 44 40 8 12 46 42 10 14 48 44 12 16 Women shoes IT EUR US UK 36 36 6 3 37 37 6.5 4 38 38 7.5 5 39 39 8.5 6 40 40 9 7 41 41 9.5 8 Men clothes IT EUR US UK 50 46 36 36 52 48 38 38 54 50 40 40 56 52 42 42 58 54 44 44 60 56 46 46 Men shoes IT EUR US UK 40 40 7.5 6 41 41 8 7 42 42 8.5 8 43 43 9 9 44 44 10.5 10 45 45 11.5 11 46 46 12 12
Fresh off DIOR’s prêt-à-porter catwalks, this ecru wool coat epitomizes the modern energy of today’s contemporary woman.
w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 25
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This shoe boutique in San Marco - its other branch is located in Frezzeria - has been a reference point for discerning Venetians since the 1970s. Its owner Jacopo Nobili sells sought-after, classic men and women’s shoes, distinguished by their Made in Italy aesthetic. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco, 420 (Calle Larga). T: 041 522 9956. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco stop) Map F4• Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco Frezzeria, 1583. T: 041 522 8997.
Michele De Fina Highly select leather shoes, its owner oversees each stage of the working process from the cutting of the leather to the end creation. Craftsmanship and Italian
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Tucked away under an arcade just steps from the Rialto bridge is a tiny boutique with an astonishing selection of handmade slippers where Alessandra and Renato make and sell colourful ‘furlane’ (slippers), handcrafted with recycled bicycle-tyre treads, ideal for finding your footing on a gondola. Their creations are available in coloured velvet, brocade, printed fabrics or recycled shirting, provided by their customers. PASSION TIP Highly original and absolutely unmissable! Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.piedaterre-venice.com. San Polo, 60 (Ruga Rialto, Sotoportego dei Oresi). T: 041 5285513. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato). Map E3 CA LL
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style are the hallmark traits of Venetian shoe designer Michele De Fina. Open daily 10am-1pm/2pm-7pm. www.micheledefina.com. San Marco, 318/A (Calle della Canonica). T: 041 3030189. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop or San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
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An historic Venetian shoe shop which has been producing its own-name sleek, butter-soft leather shoes for men and women since the 1940s. It also stocks a wide selection of international brands including Church’s, Timberland, Camper, Michael Kors, Bikkemberg sandals and Siton loafers. La Parigina also carries an assortment of luxury sportswear. www.laparigina.it. Open daily 10am7.30pm. San Marco, 733. T: 041 5231555. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4 • Open daily 9am-1pm/4pm-8pm. Venezia Lido, Gran Viale S. M. Elisabetta 14, T: 041 2420475. Vaporetto line 2 (Lido stop). Off Map
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René Caovilla In the 1950s, twenty-year-old René started working at his family’s footwear factory, revealing his talent as a ‘footwear sculptor’. Based in Venice, he has collaborated with fashion houses of the likes of Valentino, Dior, Galliano, Chanel and is noted for the stunning line of "jewel shoes" he co-created with Karl Lagerfeld. Shoe-designer to the stars, A-listers who adore his creations include Gwen Stefani, Robin Wright, Britney Spears and Sarah Jessica Parker. PASSION TIP His pumps in Venetian lace are truly iconic! Open daily 10am-7pm. www.renecaovilla. com. San Marco, 1296. T: 041 5238038. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4
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A milliner boasting a longstanding family tradition dating back to the early 20th century, Giuliana Longo’s fame has spread far beyond the boundaries of Venice, thanks to her unique Venetian aesthetic. Her shop is the dream hat-cupboard of any true sartorialist, amidst old-world furnishings, original panama hats and handmade headgear.
PASSION TIP The only shop in town where you can find authentic gondolier’s hats. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.giulianalongo.com. San Marco, 4813 (Calle del Lovo). T: 041 5226454. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
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For the past ten years, Venetian designer-cobbler Giovanna Zanella has been creating exclusive lines of shoes for men and women at her workshop located just a stone’s throw from the Rialto Bridge. Each pair is endowed with its own, unrepeatable personality and Giovanna refers to them as “magical, haute couture creations” because they are often enhanced by a surprise element like touches of nylon, cobra heads, pistils or fringes. Open Mon-Sat 1.30pm-8pm. www.giovannazanella.it. Castello, 5641 (Calle near Campo San Lio). T: 041 5235500. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
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Austrian by birth and Venetian by adoption, Gabriele Gneimer is a real footwear guru, boasting an impressive resume. The designer studied at several of the world’s most prestigious design schools and several of her handcrafted pieces are exhibited at museums. Her shoes, known as ‘Ferrari Footwear’, are built entirely around the shape of her customers’ feet. Open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm/2pm-6pm. By appointment only. www.gabrielegmeiner.com. San Polo, 951 (Campiello del Sol). T: 338 8962189. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Map E3
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SHOPPING SV Lab As its name suggests, more than a shop, SV Lab is a creative workshop that its owner Carlo Sartori likes to describe as “his parallel world”. Not just a shop selling shoes and accessories - a place where you can create a sophisticated, eccentric total look - but also an open space where it is not unusual to find artists at work... Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-6pm. www.svlab.it. San Marco, 2663 (Campo San Maurizio). T: 041 5220595. Vaporetto line 1 (Giglio stop). Map E5
ART GALLERIES Bugno Art Gallery Situated in front of the La Fenice Theatre, the gallery has cooperated with well-known artists on the Venetian scene including Guidi, Giuseppe Santomaso, Emilio Vedova and Armando Pizzinato, as well as other international contemporary painters. Particularly noteworthy among the illustrious names represented by the gallery are Luca Campigotto, Paolo Ventura, Ben Vautier, Mario Schifano, Arman, Salvo, Joe Tilson, Maurizio Galimberti, Marco Zanta, Giovanni Chiaramonte. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am7pm; Sun 4pm-7.30pm by appointment. www. bugnoartgallery.it. San Marco, 1996/d (Campo San Fantin). T. 041 5231305. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E4
Written in the Paloma Picasso’s own hand, this ‘Graffiti’ 18k rose gold and diamond pendant by TIFFANY & CO. is whimsical, feminine and refined. Those who wish to make a bolder statement, look no further than this heart and arrow pendant, which is sweetly sentimental. location features over 100 top fashion brands for men and women, carefully selected to offer its clientele quality and elegance. These include casual men’s lines for a sporty-chic look, sartorial designs for savvy-style gentlemen and women’s wear, featuring the iconic accessories of the latest collections, including small leather goods and bijoux, for a glamorous, cosmopolitan aesthetic. The store offers numerous special facilities and services for its customers, including a Personal Shopping service and Tax Free Shopping. Open Mon-Sat 10am7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.alducadaosta.com. San Marco, 4945. T: 041 5220733. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Boggi Milano An easy yet sophisticated look for businessmen on the go, but, above all, a guarantee of style for those who appreciate quality. Boggi Milano offers
garments aimed at a contemporary, modern and cosmopolitan man who is not prepared to sacrifice the classics of the male wardrobe: the suit, a second skin that is so comfortable that it can be worn on any occasion. Other locations: Cannaregio (inside the Santa Lucia Railway Station, Platform 6- Fondamenta Santa Lucia, 20) and Marco Polo Airport. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. www. boggi.it. San Marco, 1744 (Bacino Orseolo). T: 041 2960321. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4
DEPARTMENT STORES Coin Excelsior Located in Cannaregio, just a few steps from the Rialto Bridge, this luxury department store store extends over four floors surrounding the original indoor courtyard where designer Felice Limosani’s lighting installation is showcased. The store provides a selection of both Italian and International fashion brands, as well as furniture (on the top floor),
Contini Galleria d’Arte Established at the end of the 1960s by Stefano Contini to indulge his passion for art, the gallery is a reference point for dealers and collectors specializing in contemporary art works and sculptures. In addition to Venice, other branches of the Contini galleries are located in Mestre and Cortina D’Ampezzo. Artists showcased include Botero, Mitoraj, Christo, Picasso, Fontana and Giacometti. Open daily 10.30am-1pm/2pm-7.30pm. www.continiarte.com. San Marco, 2288 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5230357. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso). Map E5
Galleria Ravagnan Founded in 1967, in a fairly small yet evocative space in the historic centre, the Ravagnan Gallery is one of the city’s oldest, most exclusive art galleries in the city. It exhibits works by artists of national and international renown, exports art works throughout the world and participates at prominent international and American art fairs. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10am-6pm. www.ravagnangallery.com. Piazza San Marco, 50/a. T: 041 5203021. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4
Melori & Rosenberg Gallery Opened in 1996, it was the first Gallery to exhibit contemporary art in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo. A unique Italian representative for Luigi Rocca’s artworks, the Gallery also showcases the artworks of other well-known Italian and international artists. Open daily 9.30am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7.30pm. www. melori-rosenberg.com. Cannaregio, 2919 (Campo del Ghetto Novo). T: 041 2750039. Vaporetto line 4.1 or 5.1 (Fondamente Nove stop). Map D4
CLOTHING MEN & WOMEN Al Duca d'Aosta Originally established in Venice in 1902, Al Duca d’Aosta now boasts stores in six cities across the Triveneto region: Venice, Padua, Verona, Mestre, Treviso and Udine. The historical four-storey Venice
An exclusive collection The Merchant of Venice exemplifies the historic role played by the city of Venice, worldwide, in the art of perfume-making. It carries a selection of different product lines inspired by the tradition of the Venetian Republic; sublime craftsmanship and trade with the Far East. At its Flagship Store in Campo San Fantin you can discover the new, exclusive ‘La Fenice’ collection, a tribute to the Gran Teatro La Fenice, one of the world’s most legendary opera houses. Conveying the perfect harmony between music and olfactory pleasures, this collection has been designed to offer customers a unique, sensorial experience. The two fragrances for him and her are bottled in exquisite flacons interpreted in chromatic shades of light blue and gold, the hallmark colours of the theatre. www.themerchantofvenice.com Flagship Store San Marco, 1895 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 2960559. Spezieria all’Ercole d’Oro Cannaregio, 2233 (Strada Nova, Santa Fosca). T: 041 720600. Concept Store Murano Fondamenta dei Vetrai, 114. Murano. T: 041 5274297.
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SHOPPING
Artistic glass in Murano
region, it offers endless entertainment, from the children’s adventure play area to restaurants and cafés and even an annual summer music festival. Tax refund for Non-EU citizens. Open daily 10am-10pm. www.mcarthurglen.com. Via Marco Polo, 1 (Noventa di Piave, 30 minutes from Venice). T: 0421 5741. Off Map
Palmanova Outlet Village
Glassmaking had already become an integral part of life in the Venetian lagoon in the 7th century B.C. Furthermore, after the year 1000 A.D. its production had become so important that it was protected by specific laws: the furnaces used to create the molten glass were a constant fire hazard in the narrow streets of Venice. As a consequence, all the glass workshops were moved to Murano where they are still located today. It was here that eyeglasses were invented in the 13th century and here that, in 1369, mirrors began to be produced. It was also here that, in 1450, Angelo Barovier invented crystal. Glass was a rare commodity throughout the Renaissance: it was only in 1827 that production on an industrial level began. At that point, blown glass or glass produced by lampworking became a highly prized material used for artistic purposes, achieving its height of splendor during the Art Nouveau period. Artists including Lalique, Dammouse and Tiffany
cosmetics and luxury perfumery (ground floor). Open daily 10am-8.30pm. www.coinexcelsior.com. Cannaregio, 5787. T: 041 5203581. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F3
T Fondaco dei Tedeschi The recently renovated 16th century building that extends over 7000 sqm is a luxury shopping, food and cultural destination. Surrounding a central courtyard, the store offers the best in leading Italian and international fashion brands, accessories, jewellery and watches, wines and spirits, beauty and fragrances, food and a rich selection of local gifts. Don’t miss the specially curated cultural program on the 4th floor and the breathtaking view from the roof terrace. In partnership with Premier Tax Free, the store will also offer an instant detax at the cash desk when the payment is made by credit card, the 28 W H E R E V E N I C E I F E B R UA R Y 2017
sought out the glassblowers of Murano to produce their famous works. As a result of this experience, during the mid-20th century, real masters of the art began to emerge in Murano including Signoretto, Ballarin, Zanetti and Vidal. Their works are highly coveted objects, true collectors’ items which are often displayed at museums. Murano has numerous glass factories, several of which boast an age-old history (i.e.Barovier&Toso) or a list of particularly prestigious collaborations (i.e. Venini). Crafting authentic Murano glass is no easy task and does not come cheap. Large objects require hours of work, so don’t expect to take your custom-made lamp home on the same day. Furthermore, each piece is unique meaning that small imperfections are an integral part of the value of the object. Finally, the island’s glass factories are equipped to make safe deliveries anywhere in the world… ask your concierge!
first of this kind in Europe. Open daily, 9.30am7.30pm (October-March) and 9.30am-9.30pm (April-September). www.TFondaco.com. Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge). T: 041 3142000. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).
Just one hour from Venice, Palmanova Outlet Village offers 90 stores with the trendiest brands discounted by up to 70% and open all year around: Adidas-Reebok, Aldo Bruè, Baldinini, Alberta Ferretti-Moschino, Calvin Klein, Fedon, Iceberg, Ixos-Malloni, Nike, Piquadro, Pollini and many others. Tax refund for Non-EU citizens. In addition to shopping, Palmanova Outlet Village makes you discover a land full of history and taste: the picturesque hills of the Collio region, the landscapes of Friuli’s Dolomites and the Alps, close to the Karst plateau with the historical sites of the Great War and the star-shaped city of Palmanova, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Open daily 10am8pm. www.palmanovaoutlet.it. Take the A4 highway Venezia-Trieste and exit at Palmanova. Infoline: T: 0432 837810. Off Map
JEWELRY & WATCHES Audemars Piguet A must-visit stopover for luxury watch lovers. A purveyor of classic watches since 1875, Audemars Piguet is the place to go for elegant timepieces, made to the very highest standards. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-6.30pm. www.audemarspiguet.com. Piazza San Marco, 18. T: 041 5285519. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Boncompagni Venezia This historic boutique in St. Mark’s Square stocks some of Italy’s most coveted jewelry brands, offering its clientele a unique selection of beautifully crafted pieces. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-6pm. www.boncompagnivenezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 130/131/132. T: 041 5224563. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Cartier In addition to its renowned collections of haute joaillerie, Cartier is also famous for its priceless timepieces, a perfect mix of design and technology, enhanced by precious metals and diamonds. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.cartier. it. San Marco, 1474/1475 (Calle San Moisè). T: 041 8842511. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5
Chopard
FASHION OUTLETS
Famed for its creativity, state-of-the-art technology and outstanding savoir-faire, the Swiss Jewelry brand opens doors to jet-set luxury and glamour, while its traditional watches are made with all the aplomb of a master craftsman. Open daily 10.15am-6.30pm. www.chopard.it. Piazza San Marco, 51. T: 041 5231883. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Noventa di Piave Designer Outlet
Damiani
Map E3
With more than 130 stores, cafés and restaurants, visitors can find their favourite labels with price reductions of up to 70%, all year round, and further discounts at the annual summer and winter sales. From iconic fashion brands like Prada, Gucci, Armani, Fendi, Jil Sander and Paul Smith to sporting labels, like Nike and X-Bionic, and high-street favourites, like Guess and Desigual. Easy to reach from Venice, Treviso, Jesolo, Padua and the beaches in the
NEW OPENING A reference point in the world of high-end jewelry, Damiani is renowned for its unmistakable style and innovative technical solutions, including its ‘a lunette d’illusione’ setting designed to highlight the brilliance of its stones. www.damiani.com. San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4
SHOPPING Pomellato
In DAMIANI’s romantic ‘Baci’ collection, the precious embrace of white and pink gold is exalted by a young, sophisticated design.
Dodo The range of luxurious yet cute gold jewelry created by Dodo, the brand founded by Pomellato in 1995, is by now a classic either for gift or collection purposes thanks to its iconic good luck charms, each of which has its own special meaning. www.dodo.it. c/o Coin Excelsior (www.coinexcelsior.com). Cannaregio, 5787. T: 041 5203581. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F3
Gems of Venice For more than thirty years, Gems of Venice has sourced the most precious stones, which are then processed at its workshop near the Rialto Bridge, in the heart of Venice, to become authentic wearable art. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-9.30pm; Sun 10.30am2pm/3.30pm-6.30pm. San Polo, 1044. T: 041 5225148. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4
IWC Schaffausen Swiss watchmaker IWC has opened an elegant space in Venice’s famed and fabled St. Mark’s Square. The brand’s new boutique, located in one of the most beautiful cities in the world, is a must-visit for any watch enthusiast. Fans of its luxury timepieces are invited to discover the fascinating world of IWC’s six watch families, its innovative craftsmanship and all the allure of high-end watchmaking. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-6.30pm. www.iwc.com. Piazza San Marco, 43. T: 041 8842451. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5
Jaeger-LeCoultre A meeting place for collectors and haute horlogerie enthusiasts, at this boutique customers will have the pleasure of discovering the latest creations and exquisite timepieces designed by this master of Swiss watchmaking. Open daily 10am-7pm. www.jaeger-lecoultre.com. Piazza San Marco, 65. T: 041 884241. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F5
Nardi Venezia A combination of a love of precious stones and a passion for the art of goldsmithery make Nardi’s jewelry rare accessories to be worn or collected, the epitome of sheer Venetian elegance. Open daily 10am-6.30pm. www.nardi-venezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 69. T: 041 5225733. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F5
Omega Omega is a pioneer in the field of watchmaking. Quality and innovation are key to the vision of one of Switzerland’s most famous haute horologists. At its Venetian boutique, you can find all the excellence of these precious creations thanks to its extensive collection of luxurious timepieces for men and women. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.omegawatches.com. San Marco, 1291. T: 041 5220820. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco stop or San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Established in 1967 as an artisanal workshop, over the years, its contemporary jewelry has captivated wearers around the world. Pomellato creates highly sought-after collections featuring a range of stones boasting myriad colours and ultra-feminine designs. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www. pomellato.com. San Marco, 2031 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5231909. Vaporetto line 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map F4
Salvadori
ROLEX RETAILER Salvadori was founded in Venice in 1857. A member of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses, Salvadori purchases its diamonds from Antwerp and Tel Aviv, accompanied by the highest diamond quality certificates. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-6.30pm. www. salvadori-venezia.eu. Diamond Atelier Venice: Piazza San Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Salvadori Boutique Rolex: Piazza San Marco, 44. T: 041 2602313. Salvadori Boutique Panerai: Piazza San Marco, 47. T: 041 5200899. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5
Tag Heuer Since 1860 Tag Heuer has been setting milestones in Swiss watchmaking. It is the first watchmaker to master luxury sports chronographs with an unsurpassed precision. Tag Heuer’s constant quest for innovation, excellence, performance and prestige is reflected in its partnerships with the Red Bull Racing F1 team. Open daily 10am-7pm. www.tagheuer.com. San Marco, 1298 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5211401. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Tiffany & Co.
NEW OPENING Founded in 1837 in New York, Tiffany & Co. is a world-renowned jeweller. Since its introduction in 1886, the Tiffany ® Setting has been known as the ultimate symbol of love, paving the way for Tiffany’s legendary collection of engagement rings. Bold, modern collections, including the elegant, minimalist creations designed by Elsa Peretti and the brightly-coloured lines by Paloma Picasso, have made Tiffany a destination for those seeking spectacular beauty, style and the very best in design. Open daily 10am7.30pm. www.tiffany.it. San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5
PASSION SHOPPING
the crafting of a variety of papier mache Venetian masks, including jesters, elves and characters from the ‘Commedia dell’Arte’ for a trip back into 18th century Venice. The Mascareri have also worked for the theatre, the cinemas and fashion shows, and are considered among several of the most established manufacturers of collector’s items. PASSION TIP They were the first mask makers to embellish their masks with decorations by Tiepolo. Open daily 9am6pm. www.mascarer.com. San Polo, 80 (Vaporetto line 1 or 2, Rialto stop). T: 041 5223857 and San Polo, 2720 T: 041 5242887 (Vaporetto line 1 or 2, San Tomà stop). Map E3
The Merchant of Venice The prestigious stand-alone boutique of this brand which represents the ‘Art of Perfumery in Venice’ is housed in the former, mid-17th century apothecary of San Fantin, located just steps from La Fenice Opera House. Its neo-Gothic décor and ornamentation in walnut, wood and terracotta, reflect the typical style of ancient Venetian ‘palazzi’. The Merchant of Venice is not only a line of products but a wider project which includes a concept store in Murano, the Palazzo Mocenigo Museum in Santa Croce, the Spice shop in Ercole d’Oro (Cannaregio) and the World of Venice space at the Marco Polo Airport. www. themerchantofvenice.com. Open Tues-Sun 10.30am7.30pm. San Marco, 1895 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 2960559. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4
Venini An artistic space, where you rediscover all the elegance and sophistication of the exquisite creations handcrafted by Master glassmakers from Murano. A prime location for passionate collectors, or those whose want to further their knowledge about an entirely Italian art, Venetian glass creations, meticulously handcrafted by Master craftsmen. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www. venini.com. San Marco, 314. T: 041 5224045. Other location: Fondamenta Vetrai, 47 (Murano). T: 041 2737204. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto or San Marco stops). Map F4
Add a touch of Italian chic to your wardrobe this winter with BARENA VENEZIA’s elegant ‘Allegra Antracite’ scarf. www.barenavenezia.com
Ca’ Macana One of the oldest and finest mask making workshops in Venice for Carnival, theatre, film production and parties. Ca’ Macana crafts authentic handmade masks in the same way that Venetian artisans did 800 years ago, never repeating a decoration in order to ensure that each mask is unique. Thanks to their expertise, they also hold conferences and courses on the history of Venetian masks and traditional mask-making techniques. PASSION TIP Their masks were featured in important film productions including “Eyes Wide Shut” by Stanley Kubrick and in operas including those staged by the Vienna Opera House. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.camacana.com. Maskmaking and Courses: Dorsoduro, 3215. Showrooms: Dorsoduro, 3172 and Dorsoduro 1169. T: 041 2776142. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). Map D5
La Bottega dei Mascareri The workshop of the Boldrin brothers specializes in w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 29
SHOPPING
Top antiques
Tessitura Bevilacqua
Venice is infused with so many historical and artistic artefacts that the city’s passion for antiques is literally embedded within its soul. There are so many large and small workshops that it is almost impossible to list them all. Where® has selected a pick, renowned for their quality and tradition.
Alessandro Zoppi A true son of Venice, Alessandro Zoppi, one of the most passionate and authoritative collectors and art merchants in the city, spent his youth travelling extensively abroad. In 1961, he moved to London where he stayed for a few years. The owner, for more than a decade, of the highly prestigious Antichità Cesana, today, Zoppi’s house-museum features a number of pieces from his impressive collections, with a particular emphasis on artistic glass objet d’art dating from the 16th through 20th centuries. PASSION TIP Visiting his house-museum, or even talking to Alessandro Zoppi, is like taking a marvellous journey back in time. By appointment only. T: 335 6657005. email: winglets13@gmail.com. Antichità San Samuele An antiques dealer since the Seventies, Silvana Vianello is renowned for her research and expertise in the field. PASSION TIP San Samuele specializes in religious antiques, with a particular focus on sculptures dating from the 13th through 18th centuries. Open: Mon-Sat 10am12.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. San Marco, 3130 (Calle delle Botteghe). T: 041 5204900. Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop). Map E4
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Antichità Zanutto Continuing a longstanding family tradition, in the 1970s, Vincenzo Zanutto chose San Marco to open his workshop specializing in antique paintings, with a particular focus on Venetian artists. Also offers evaluations and certified appraisals. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-12.30pm/4.30pm-7.30pm. San Marco, 2013 (Calle delle Veste, near the Teatro La Fenice). T: 041 5235359. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio or San Marco stop). Map E5 Ca’ Nova Boasting over 40 years in the industry, Ca' Nova which means ‘new house’, has decorated several of Venice’s most elegant homes with its upholstery fabrics. Wallpaper, curtains, tablecloths and hand-woven sheets. Open Mon-Fri 9am12.30pm/3pm-7.30pm; Sat 9am-12.30pm. www. canovatessutitendaggi.com. San Marco, 4264/a (Campo San Luca). T: 041 5203834. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4
Antichità San Samuele
Franco Dell’Orto This well-known antique carpet gallery stocks a fabulous range of large Caucasian and Persian rugs, European tapestries and large-scale decorative pieces. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-12.30pm/3.30pm7.30pm; Sat 9.30am-12.30pm. www.francodellorto. com. San Marco, 2052/b (Calle delle Veste, near Teatro La Fenice). T: 041 5224736. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio or San Marco stop). Map E5 Le Zoie Michele Dal Bon’s atelier is infused with personality. PASSION TIP This eclectic shop showcase rare antique watches and jewelry but also specializes in collections that are unlikely to be found elsewhere, including objects inspired by ancient ‘theriaca’, a medical concoction also known as Venice treacle. Open Tues-Sat 9.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. www.lezoie.com. San Polo, 1566 (Calle dei Boteri) T:
Alessandro Zoppi
SHOPPING
041 2758694. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3 Libreria Antiquaria Linea d’Acqua Antique books and priceless prints focusing primarily on preservation and authentic bookbinding methods. PASSION TIP Specializes in 18th century illustrated books, maps and views of Venice and engravings by 18th century Venetian masters. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-12.30pm/3.30pm-7pm; Sat 10.30am12.30pm. www.lineadacqua.it. San Marco 3717/d (Calle della Mandola). T: 041 5224030. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4 Studio Arga The owner of Studio Arga, Gabriella Tallon’s expertise in Oriental and Asian antiques makes this gallery a must-visit reference point. Open by appointment. www.argainc.com. San Marco 3659/a (Calle della Verona corner of Rio Terà dei Assassini). T: 041 2411124. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto or San Samuele stop) and line 2 (San Marco stop). Map E4
Venezia, Le Stampe Turio Tessitura Bevilacqua Artisanal weavers specializing in the production of exquisite, decorative fabrics for furnishings and curtains. PASSION TIP A unique place! Since 1875, the company has practiced the art of weaving on original looms that once belonged to the Venetian School of Silk. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-4pm (Sat-Sun by appointment). www.luigi-bevilacqua.com. Santa Croce 1320. T: 041 721566. Vaporetto line 1 (Riva de Biasio stop). Map D3 Venetia Studium The Lando family’s mission is to create and sell “modern object that speak an ancient language”. Venetia Studium not only stocks a wide range of Fortuny® lamps but also splendid silk pillows, fabrics, handbags and other accessories inspired by the ambiences loved by Marià Fortuny. Open daily 10am-7pm. www.venetiastudium.com San Marco, 2425. T: 041 5236953. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto or Santa Maria del Giglio stop). Map E5
Ca' Nova
Franco Dell'Orto
Venezia, Le Stampe Turio At this small, refined showroom, Camilla Nicolai continues a family tradition established at the end of the 19th century by her great grandfather Osvaldo Böhm. Stocks a wide selection of frames, antiques and handcrafted Venetian objet d’art. PASSION TIP Specializes in antique decorative prints. Open 10.30am-1pm/3.30pm-7pm. www.venezialestampe.it. San Marco, 4606 (Calle Teatro Goldoni). T: 041 5234318. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4
Venetia Studium
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IN SEARCH OF EXCELLENCE BY STEFANO TRAINE
Isola di San Michele
Cannaregio
Santa Croce
Nicolao Atelier
San Polo
Gems of Venice
Dorsoduro
San Marco
Castello Vino e... Vini
Testolini Jade Martine Ottica Mantovani
Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore Giudecca
AN ANCIENT VOCATION Venice’s natural ability for trade dates way back in time. Bearing in mind that each day, whatever the season, the city’s treasures attract thousands of visitors from all over the world, it’s no surprise that every corner of Venice is packed with shops and ‘botteghe’ selling all kinds of merchandise. So, we suggest that you try to be a little selective when shopping. Make sure that you choose a shop that really expresses the soul of the city. Here are a few tips for quality shopping.
GEMS OF VENICE In the heart of Venice near the Rialto Bridge, this is a unique boutique and workshop where precious stones are cut and transformed into genuine, wearable works of art. For more than thirty years, Gems of Venice has sourced several of the world's most precious stones including jade, diamonds and gems… taking us back to the fascinating voyages of Venetian merchant Marco Polo.
www.gemsofvenice.it San Polo, 1044 (Ruga RialtoRughetta Ravano) T: 041 5225148
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JADE MARTINE The most luxurious lingerie in Venice can be found at this small yet charming boutique that Stephanie and Leila run with ‘Venetian’ warmth and French charm. Sophisticated underwear and accessories, either for personal use or ultra-feminine, high-quality gifts. This boutique stocks a wide assortment of beautiful items, and courteous assistants are always on-hand to offer useful advice. A reference point in St. Mark’s since 1995. San Marco, 1645. T: 041 5212892.
NICOLAO ATELIER An artisanal tailor’s shop that makes Venetianstyle period costumes for movies, plays, commercials and Carnival parties.
www.nicolao.com Cannaregio, 2590 (Fondamenta della Misericordia). T: 041 5207051.
VINO E... VINI This must-visit wine ‘boutique’ is located just steps from San Marco. It carries a prestigious selection of Italian and foreign wines as well as an extensive assortment of dessert wines and exclusive grappas. Castello, 3566 (Salizada del Pignater). T: 041 5210184.
Ottica Mantovani
dal 1871
OTTICA MANTOVANI
www.xxxxxx.org Viale xxxxx, 6 T: 02 xxxxx More info: www.wheremilan.com
Sun and prescription glasses, the most technologically advanced lenses and the most comfortable, fashionable frames. Managed by the Carlon family since the 40’s. www.otticamantovani.it San Marco, 4860 (Mercerie del Capitello). T: 041 5223427. More info: www.where-venice.com w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 33
DINING
For a romantic dinner There’s no better way to end a fabulous day on the lagoon than a romantic candle-lit dinner at Venice’s Bistrot de Venise. The ideal place to savour authentic, seasonal gourmet offerings. By Stefania Vida
E
stablished in 1993, the Bistrot de Venise is a place where people can meet and savour great cuisine and outstanding vintages while enjoying an array of cultural activities dedicated to the city of Venice including exhibitions and events devoted to art, poetry and photography. Boasting a warm, welcoming atmosphere, at Bistrot de Venise diners can sample an array of different menus based on their individual tastes and desire to experiment. A one-of-a-kind opportunity to rediscover authentic, historic Venetian cuisine with recipes re-imagined by an Anonymous Venetian Chef, Bartolomeo Sacchi also known as Platina, Bartolomeo Scappi and others (from the 14th to 18th centuries): a gastronomic 34 W H E R E V E N I C E I F E B R UA R Y 2017
journey back in time, featuring the ancient aromas and flavours of the Serenissima, including sweet and sour dishes, precious spices, rice and stockfish. In addition to the above, the restaurant is also renowned for its traditional, contemporary Venetian cuisine with standouts including fish and seafood from the lagoon, with creative twists on traditional festive dishes. IN SEARCH OF LOST WINES In 1999, Bistrot de Venice embarked on a search for rare wines. As a consequence, its wine list features rare wines from the Republic of Venice, including Malvasia, Ribolla, Marzemino, Turchetta, Bianchetta, Raboso and Oseleta but also several great
Italian classics selected by Maitre Sommelier Stefano Cipolato, a Veneto Regional Champion and a member of the Italian Sommelier Association (AIS). The restaurant also offers more than 60 wines by the glass and 300 highly select Italian and French labels. Wine aficionados can also participate in private guided tasting sessions in French and English led by professional AIS sommeliers. These sessions are held from 11am to 1pm and from 5pm to 7pm (4-20 participants).
>> Bistrot de Venise Restaurant - Bar - Wine bar San Marco, 4685 (Calle dei Fabbri) www.bistrotdevenise.com
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM
TASTING EXPERIENCE
Alla Madonna
Antico Martini
Excellent wine accompanied by traditional ‘cicchetti’ and Venetian fish specialties, Enoteca Al Volto invites diners into its warm, welcoming atmosphere. €. Open daily 11.30am-3pm and 6pm-10pm. San Marco, 4081 (Calle Cavalli). T: 041 5228945. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Zaccari stop). Map E4
Established in 1954 and set in one of Venice’s most picturesque corners, the Rado family has run Alla Madonna since its inception. Its welcoming ambience, characterized by an ancient vineyard, provides the perfect backdrop for the typical regional cuisine served here. €€€. www. ristoranteallamadonna.com. San Polo, 594 (Calle della Madonna). T: 041 5223824. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E4
Located next to the La Fenice theatre, with its elegant dining rooms, welcoming atmosphere and attentive staff, the Antico Martini serves some of the best seafood in town. €€€. www.anticomartini. com. Campo Teatro Fenice 2007. T: 041 5224121. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).Map E5
L’Aciugheta
Alle Testiere
Enoteca Al Volto
Its fame and fortune stems from a soft, 7 cm long “paninello” (literally, “tiny sandwich”), stuffed with butter and two “aciughete” (skinless anchovies in oil). Other must-trys include its meatballs, croutons, stuffed chili peppers and freshly baked ‘pizzette’ topped with anchovies. €. Castello, 4357 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5224292. Vaporetto line 1, or 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Set in the heart of Venice between the Rialto Bridge and St. Mark’s Square, this tiny restaurant is the connoisseurs’ choice for fresh fish and seafood, with a menu that changes frequently and a discerning selection of wines. €€€. www. osterialletestiere.it. Castello, 5801 (Calle del Mondo Novo). T: 041 5227220. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Osteria alla Rivetta
Antica Carbonera
One of Venice best-known, most traditional “cicheteria” (but also a trattoria for lunch and dinner), it is a go-to address for wine tastings. Open daily 11am-10.30pm. €. Castello, 4625. T: 041 5287302. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN CUISINE A Beccafico Arte It offers several dining spaces and a small inner courtyard. Its typical Venetian ambience, is low-key, contemporary and elegant, blending to perfection with its Sicilian-style cuisine. €€€. Closed on Tuesdays. www.abeccaficoarte.com. Cannaregio, 2289/C. T: 041 2759220. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E5
A la Vecia Cavana
Homemade pasta, fresh fish and unusual decor: its interiors resemble those of the Miramar yacht that belonged to Franz Joseph II and Princess Sissi. A favourite haunt of artists, its charm and Venetian flavour have remained unaltered since it first opened in 1894. Standouts include its raw fish dishes and stewed cod fish with polenta. €€€. www. anticacarbonera.it. San Marco (Calle Bembo). T: 041 5225479. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4
Antiche Carampane A typical trattoria, in business for over a century, it has a friendly, convivial atmosphere. This is a go-to address for foodies and connoisseurs of fine dining. Its excellent menu, enhanced by the freshest, top quality ingredients is accompanied by an astute selection of wines. Closed on Sundays and Mondays. €€€. www.antichecarampane.com. San Polo, 1911. T: 041 5240165. Vaporetto line 1 (RialtoMercato stop). Map E3
Antico Pignolo The hand of owner Eligio Paties, is apparent in its beautifully laid tables and impeccable service. The traditional Venetian menu is accompanied by a wellstocked cellar boasting more than 900 labels from all over the world. €€€. www.anticopignolo.com. San Marco, 451 (Calle degli Specchieri). T: 041 5228123. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Conca d’Oro Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, the Conca d’Oro was established by Sicilian brothers Giuseppe and Giovanni Costa, the founders of the first pizzeria in Northern Italy. Since that time, this Venetian institution has been turning out some of the best pizza in town. €€€. www. concadorovenice.com. San Marco, 4338 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5229293. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Da Fiore A renowned Venetian restaurant that offers topnotch cuisine in a sophisticated, elegant setting. Thirty-five years ago, Mara and Maurizio Martin transformed an old osteria into one of the city’s most famous restaurants. Impeccable service and superlative Venetian dishes composed of carefully selected seasonal ingredients have made Da Fiore a must-visit destination. Closed on Mondays. €€€. www.dafiore.net. San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3
Set within the picturesque environment of an old restructured cavàna (a typical sloped building used to house boats), this restaurant serves delicious traditional Venetian and Italian cuisine. €€€. www. marsillifamiglia.it. Cannaregio, 4624 (Rio Terà SS. Apostoli). T: 041 5287106. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map F3
Acqua Pazza Set against the magical backdrop of Campo Sant’Angelo, it offers a great ‘al fresco’ dining experience under the stars. This small corner of Amalfi in Venice serves an array of tantalizing dishes. €€€. www.veniceacquapazza.com. San Marco, 3808. T: 041 2770688. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).Map E4
Al Colombo A meeting point since 1986 for an international clientele, its menu maintains all the hallmark features of traditional Venetian cuisine. In summer, guests can dine outside under the romantic light of Venice’s street lamps. €€€. www.alcolombo.com. San Marco, 4619. T: 041 5222627. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3
Al Mercà Highly sought-after, typical Venetian cuisine. Boasting an informal atmosphere, it is the perfect spot to relax with a soothing cocktail after a long day of sightseeing. €€€. Lido - Via E. Dandolo, 17. T: 041 2431663. Vaporetto 1, 2, 5.1, 5.2 (Lido stop). Map E3
LA CARAVELLA Set in an evocative and romantic ambience, this haven of culinary excellence boasts a fabulous selection of Venetian cuisine updated with a contemporary, gourmet twist. See page 37
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“Five star” restaurants Tradition, innovation and creativity: Where® highlights some culinary destinations to whet your appetite in several top hotels in Venice. By Stefania Vida La Cupola
Acquerello c/o San Clemente Palace Kempinski Venice. Isola di San Clemente, 1. T: 041 4750111. www.kempinski.com. The gourmet cuisine of Acquerello restaurant enhances the flavours of Italian and Venetian tradition with creative and surprising combinations of Executive Chef Vincenzo Di Tuoro. PASSION TIP Its view is as breathtaking as its food: situated next to the XII-century church of San Clemente, the restaurant, boasting a large terrace, is located next to one of the island’s private landing stages and offers an incomparable view over the lagoon and St. Mark’s Square. Open for dinner: 6.30 pm-10.30 pm. €€€. Hotel’s complimentary boat from piazza San Marco. Off Map Aman Venice Restaurant c/o Hotel Aman Venice. Palazzo Papadopoli. San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo). T: 041 2707333. www.aman.com. The exclusive restaurant at the Hotel Aman Venice offers a delightfully unique menu, thanks to several specialties created by starred Milanese chef Davide Oldani, who infuses his culinary offerings with all the vibrancy of his ‘pop cuisine’ . PASSION TIP Standouts, for those who haven’t yet tasted them, include his timeless ‘cipolla caramellata’ (‘caramelized onions’) and ‘Zafferano e riso’ (Saffron and rice’). €€€. Vaporetto line 1 (San Silvestro stop). Map E4 Antinoo’s c/o Centurion Palace Venezia. Dorsoduro, 173. T: 041 34281. www.sinahotels.com. Fronting the Grand Canal, Antinoo’s Lounge &
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Restaurant is the ideal place for a romantic dinner, boasting a decidedly designer-style décor and a soft, evocative colour scheme. In addition to the à la carte menu you can also choose from a selection of typical gourmet Venetian dishes, the perfect way to soak up the flavours and atmospheres of the lagoon city. €€€. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map E5 Aromi c/o Hilton Molino Stucky. Giudecca, 810. T: 041 2723311. www.molinostuckyhilton.it. Here you can taste authentic Mediterranean cuisine, offering a choice of pasta, meat and seafood dishes, created using only the freshest ingredients based on traditional recipes. Recognized by well-known international gastronomic association “Chiane des Rotisseurs”, Aromi is the ideal spot to celebrate a special occasion. Open on a seasonal basis, the Aromi restaurant offers guests a summer terrace with a fabulous view over Venice and the Giudecca Canal. €€€. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Palanca stop). Map C6 Canova c/o Baglioni Hotel Luna. San Marco, 1243. T: 041 5289840. www.baglionihotels.com. Winner of the Fogher d’Oro and Gambero Rosso awards, the Canova boasts an intimate, elegant atmosphere. Chef Daniele Zennaro offers menus and tastings featuring the best of traditional Venetian cuisine. All dishes are made using only the freshest, high-quality ingredients, rounded off by a wine list offering a wide selection of national and international labels. Open: lunch 12.30-2.30pm, dinner 7.30pm-10.30pm. €€€. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop) or 2 (San Marco-Giardinetti stop). Map F5
Club del Doge c/o The Gritti Palace (www.thegrittipalace.com). Campo Santa Maria del Giglio. T: 041 794611. www.clubdeldoge.com. The restaurant welcomes guests for a romantic dinner or lunch overlooking the Grand Canal, where a welcoming ambience and authentic upscale cuisine make each culinary experience a truly special one. From April to October (weather permitting), guests can dine on its stunning panoramic terrace. Dining daytime (informal) 12pm-6pm. Dinner daily (formal) 7pm- 10pm. €€€. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio stop). Map E5 De Pisis c/o Hotel Bauer Palazzo. San Marco, 1413/d. T: 041 5207022. www.bauervenezia.com. For a romantic canal side dinner, set against the backdrop of the historic Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute. Those in search of a more intimate experience can opt to dine in its elegant dining room, furnished with classic period pieces, reminiscent of the ancient pomp and splendour of the Serenissima. €€€. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 Do Leoni c/o Hotel Londra Palace. Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni). T: 041 5200533. www.londrapalace.com. The Do Leoni restaurant, one of the temples of Venetian cuisine, pays homage to the symbols of Britain and of Venice. Chef Loris Indri combines the traditions of classic Venetian fare with more creative dishes, to titillate the palates of even the most discerning diners. The chef’s culinary art is further enhanced by its two atmospheric dining spaces: an indoor dining room whose decor includes artistic crystal and original paintings and its summer Veranda on the Riva degli Schiavoni. €€€. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4 Il Giardino Segreto c/o Boscolo Venezia. Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto, 3500 (Calle Larga Piave). T: 041 2208110. www.venezia.boscolohotels.com. This restaurant pays tribute to Italian gastronomy and excellence. Thanks to thematic islands featuring an open-plan kitchen, you can watch the chef turning out his culinary delights while you wait. The restaurant offers a fabulous selection of fine wines and champagnes to accompany your choice of fish or meat courses. Also serves tantalizing aperitivi. €€€. Vaporetto line 4.2 or 5.2 (Orto stop). Map E1
DINING
L’Alcova c/o Ca’ Sagredo Hotel. Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99. T: 041 2413111. www.casagredohotel.com. Boasting a magnificent panoramic terrace over the Grand Canal, L’Alcova is ‘the’ temple of traditional Venetian cuisine for real connoisseurs. PASSION TIP Its dining room faces directly over the Canal, in front of the historic Rialto Market, from which the restaurant sources the ingredients for its menus, accompanied by an astute selection of wines from various regions of Italy. Open: lunch 12pm2.30pm, dinner 7pm-10pm. €€€. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E3 La Caravella c/o Hotel Saturnia Calle Larga XXII Marzo, 2399. T: 041 5208901. www.restaurantlacaravella.com Opened in 1963, the La Caravella restaurant completes the services offered by the Hotel Saturnia
Terrazza Danieli
Do Leoni
with a touch of culinary excellence thanks to its fabulous Venetian cuisine updated with a contemporary, gourmet twist. Its evocative, romantic ambience conjures up the colours and furnishings of an ancient Venetian vessel. PASSION TIP In summer, guests can dine ‘al fresco’ in its picturesque, internal Venetian courtyard. Open: lunch 12pm-3pm, dinner 7pm-11pm. €€€. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5 La Cupola c/o Hotel Carlton on the Grand Canal Santa Croce, 578. T: 041 2752200. www.carltongrandcanal.com. A jewel in style both the venue and the atmosphere. The menus are inspired by the traditions of Venetian, Italian and international cuisine with genuine ingredients but with an innovative and original touch. An ideal place for your celebrations or for a simple romantic evening in Venice. Vaporetto line 1 (Riva de Biasio stop). Map C3
La Cusina c/o The Westin Europa & Regina (www.starwoodhotels.com). San Marco 2159. T: 041 2400001. www.lacusina.it. For a regenerating lunch break between visiting one sight or another or for a romantic dinner, La Cusina is the ideal place to enjoy a combination of taste and relaxation. Choose a table overlooking the Grand Canal to enjoy a panoramic view of the city’s historic architecture, while savouring the restaurant’s seasonal dishes which enhance the rich local flavours of Venice and the islands of the lagoon. Open: lunch 12pm-2.30pm, dinner 7.30pm-10pm. €€€. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5 Le Maschere c/o Starhotels Splendid Venice. San Marco Mercerie, 760. T: 041 5200755. www.starhotels.com. Loved and patronized by Venetian locals, the Le Maschere restaurant is set against the backdrop of a luminous ‘Campiello’, a typical Venetian courtyard. Here you can sample authentic Venetian cuisine, featuring both meat and fish-based dishes. A truly gourmet experience, guaranteed by its partnership with Eataly, makes Le Maschere one of the most unique and original restaurants in Venice. Open: lunch 12pm-2pm, dinner 7pm-10pm. €€€. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4 Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801. www.belmond.com. Experience Venice’s top taste sensation at this enchanting Michelin-starred restaurant. Oro reflects the romantic spirit of Venice: take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant takes its name, and try the specialties inspired by Italian tradition. Open: lunch 12.30pm-2.30pm, dinner 7.30pm-10pm. €€€. Vaporetto line 4.1 (Zitelle stop). Map F6 Terrazza Danieli c/o Hotel Danieli (www.danielihotelvenice.com). Riva degli Schiavoni, 4196. T: 041 5226480. www.terrazzadanieli.com. A trip to discover traditional flavours. Executive Chef Dario Parascandolo will treat you to an exclusive gourmet experience, with a menu featuring exquisite, locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. PASSION TIP Don’t miss the breathtaking view over the lagoon. Open: lunch 12pm-3pm, dinner 7pm-10.30pm. €€€. Vaporetto line 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
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Michelin-starred restaurants
Quadri
Are you in search of a real Venetian tasting experience? Where® brings you a round-up of Michelin-starred restaurants for true connoisseurs of taste! By Stefania Vida Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco T: 041 8521300 www.jwvenice.com Aptly named ‘Dopolavoro’, which means after work. The renowned name of Giancarlo Perbellini is behind this new restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private island - the Isola delle Rose, right out in the Venetian lagoon. After a day of business meetings or exploring Venice, enjoy delicious gourmet recipes with an individual flavour and skilful light touch - the true mark of a great chef. Off Map Il Ridotto Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo, 4509 T: 041 5208280 www.ilridotto.com Located just steps from San Marco, Il Ridotto,
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'reduced' in Italian, refers to the size of this tiny, gracious restaurant. The innovative menu employing traditional elements is revised daily, with the offerings tending toward lighter, but wonderfully tasty versions of classic dishes. A particular characteristic? It only has 9 tables. Map F4 Met Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149 T: 041 5240034 www.hotelmetropole.com Located inside the Metropole hotel, the Met Restaurant is a pioneer of a new concept targeted at promoting the Italian region. Its menu features recipes based on traditional Italian gastronomy served in two versions: either classical or upgraded with a creative twist, served in unusual but never excessive combinations. Its carefully prepared dishes are full of flavour and presented in a bright, colourful way. Map G4
Il Ridotto
DINING
Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani Giudecca, 10 T: 041 240801 www.belmond.com A jewel in the crown of Belmond Hotel Cipriani, experience Venice’s top taste sensation at this enchanting Michelin-starred restaurant. Oro reflects the romantic spirit of Venice: take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant draws its name, and try the specialities inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6 Osteria da Fiore San Polo, 2202 T: 041 721308 www.dafiore.net An Osteria only by name because this is actually an elegant, starred restaurant. Its cuisine ranges from the most authentic traditional flavours interpreted in a modern-day key (meaning that offerings tend to be lighter) to more unusual dishes invented by the chef, intended to be as close to nature as possible thanks to a great selection of highly sought-after seasonal ingredients. Ask for a wine recommendation from its excellent wine list which also features several international labels. Map E3
Quadri Piazza San Marco, 121 T: 041 5222105 www.alajmo.it A real institution of Venetian taste, starting from its decor. A triumph of stucco, Murano glass and precious fabrics housed in one of the most photographed ‘palazzi’ in the city. Its menu features intriguing, creative dishes that are beautifully presented... without forgetting its spectacular view over piazza San Marco. Map F4
Venissa Fondamenta S. Caterina, 3 (Mazzorbo) T: 041 5272281 www.venissa.it On the one hand its vegetable gardens and vineyards, and, on the other, its cuisine featuring an intoxicating meld of locally sourced ingredients. Its bucolic surroundings serve as the ideal backdrop to its authentic, typically Venetian cuisine lovingly prepared by its four chefs who only use fresh, seasonal ingredients. Off Map
Osteria da Fiore
Met
Dopolavoro
Oro
Venissa
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Top coffee and pastry shops Whether you’re in search of a cup of coffee, a snack or an aperitivo, Venice offers an incredible variety of bars and pastry shops, where you can stop after a long day’s sightseeing. Where® offers you a pick of the best places to take a relaxing break, from the most modern venues to more historic locations boasting a retro atmosphere for a real trip back in time By Stefania Vida www.lavena.it. Piazza San Marco, 133/134. T: 041 5224070. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).
Caffè Florian
Caffè Florian - One of Venice’s most famous cafés with its glittering neo-Baroque décor and attractive 19th century wall panels, Caffè Florian is located in the heart of St. Mark’s Square. The oldest café in Italy, Florian is steeped in history. Opened on 29 December 1720 by Floriano Francesconi, under the name of ‘Alla Venezia Trionfante’, it was simply re-christened Florian by its regulars, who included celebrities such as Casanova, Goldoni, Canaletto and Guardi. www.caffeflorian.com. Piazza San Marco, 57. T: 041 5205641. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Caffè Lavena - Since 1750, Caffè Lavena, situated in a corner at the foot of the Clock Tower in front of the Basilica, has been one of the most renowned coffee shops in Venice. Known by the Venetians of those days as the ‘Caffè dei Foresti’ (The Foreigners’ cafè), it was mainly frequented by an international clientele.
Dal Mas Located just a few minutes from the railway station, this pastry shop offers a triumph of traditional sweet treats for breakfast (in addition to croissants, try their ‘zaleti’, ‘pan dei Dogi’ and ‘sbreghettine’). Those with a sweet tooth will be delighted to know that Dal Mas is also a chocolate shop where you can find single servings of mousse, mini Sacher torte, ‘cannoli’ and brightlycoloured macarons. www.cioccolateriadalmas. com. Cannaregio, 149/a (Rio Terà Lista de Spagna), a few metres from the St. Lucia Station. T: 041 715101. Gran Caffè Quadri - Nestling in St. Mark’s Square, with its ornate stucco mouldings, 18th-century murals, huge mirrors and polished wooden furniture, Quadri is every inch the historical café. People, including habitués like Stendhal, Wagner, Proust and Woody Allen, have been drinking at this historic venue since 1638. www.alajmo.it. Piazza San Marco, 121. T: 041 5222105. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Harry’s Bar - Founded in the 1930s, this legendary bar is renowned for its Bellini cocktails and for being the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of almost every famous name to visit Venice. Today, it is still a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice, a perfect opportunity to step back in time and savour its slightly retro and incredibly fascinating atmosphere. An ideal venue at any time of day, either for lunch or dinner, but also for a truly trademark aperitivo! www.harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco,
Da Mario alla Fava
Gran Canal
Lying in the heart of Venice, near to the Church of Santa Maria alla Fava, from which it takes its name, this small restaurant offers a calm, relaxing atmosphere far removed from the crowds of tourists that flock to the area each year. Opened in 1960, Mario Bonavita wanted to rediscover the true Venetian style of cooking which he does with panache. €€€. www.ristorantemarioallafava.it. Calle Galiazzo, 5265 - Calle dei Stagneri, 5242. T: 041 5285147. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Here you can taste the typical specialties of Venetian tradition, featuring the purest expression of taste and harmony. The restaurant’s main focus is on seafood and vegetables. Don’t miss a dinner on its evocative terrace: the restaurant faces directly onto the Grand Canal offering diners an excellent opportunity to combine the pleasures of the palate with a stunning view over Venice’s lagoon. Open: lunch 12.30pm-2.30pm, dinner 7.30pm-11.30pm €€€. www. hotelmonaco.it. c/o Hotel Monaco&Gran Canal. San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Map F5
Giorgione A typical Venetian restaurant offering its clientele an unusual combination of Venetian specialties and live music for a relaxing break, features a mix of great food and entertainment. €€€. Castello, 1533 (Via Garibaldi). www.ristorantegiorgione.it. T: 041 5228727. Vaporetto line 1, 4.1, 4.2 (Arsenale stop). Map H5 40 W H E R E V E N I C E I F E B R UA R Y 2017
Harry’s Bar Founded in the 1930s, this legendary bar is renowned for its Bellini cocktails (originally invented here) and for being the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of almost every famous name to visit Venice. Today, It is still a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice, a
1323 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Vallaresso stop). Harry’s Dolci - Harry's Dolci, a bar and restaurant, offers a peaceful view of the Canal with outdoor tables facing the Giudecca Canal. The people at the famed Harry's Dolci have established their latest enclave on this rarely visited island, far from the madding crowds of Piazza San Marco. From the quayside windows of this chic place, you can watch seagoing vessels, from yachts to lagoon barges. cipriani.com. Fondamenta S. Biagio, 773 (Giudecca). T: 041 5224844. Vaporetto linea 4.1 (Palanca stop). Pasticceria Italo Didovich - Should you find yourself in the vicinity of Campo Santa Marina (just a little off the beaten tourist track), make a beeline for this excellent pastry shop, which has stood here for the past 40 years. In addition to ‘frolle’ and rice and almond pastries, it also offers several tantalizing delicacies Castello. Campo Santa Marina. T: 041 5230017. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Pasticceria Rosa Salva - This institution has three separate shops in Venice. The first is in San MarcoCalle Fiubera: its historic headquarters, permeated by the aromas of its nearby pastry kitchen. The next is in San Marco-Mercerie: aperitivi and quick snacks that can be enjoyed in between browsing the shops lining le Mercerie, the shopping street that connects the Rialto to St. Mark’s Square. The last is in Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo. www.rosasalva.it. San Marco (Calle Fiubera), T: 041 5210544. San Marco (Mercerie), T: 041 5227934. Castello (Campo San Giovanni e Paolo), T: 041 5227949. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Rizzardini - Since 1742, the traditional sweet treats sold at this pastry shop have tempted the palates of Venetian locals and visitors alike, thanks to the high quality of its products, its atmosphere and eye-catching window displays. Must-try’s include its biscuits and, at Carnival, its utterly delectable ‘fritole’ , small fried doughnuts. San Polo, 1415. T: 041 5223835. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato or San Silvestro stop).
perfect opportunity to step back in time and savour its slightly retro and incredibly fascinating atmosphere. www.harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco, 1323 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto 1 (Rialto stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5
Il Nuovo Galeon Located on via Garibaldi, near the Giardini della Biennale and just behind the Arsenal, this restaurant is mainly frequented by Venetians. A typical, familyrun restaurant with an outdoor terrace (summer), its attractive interior is characterized by typical nautical décor, including the hull of a ‘bragozzo’, a typical fishing boat built by Crea, the famous Venetian rowing champion. €€€. www.ilnuovogaleon.com. Castello, 1308, T: 041 5204656. Vaporetto 5.1 or 5.2 (Giardini stop). Map H5
La Piscina Take a seat at its welcoming indoor dining room, or on the magnificent panoramic terrace overlooking
DINING
Kosher in Venice If you are already familiar with Jewish dietary laws, or want to try a new ‘kosher’ gastronomic experience, here are some great addresses that will not disappoint! By Stefania Vida
the Giudecca Canal. At La Piscina you can savour traditional Venetian and Mediterranean dishes paired with wines selected from amongst the best Italian labels. Vegetarian meals are also served. €€€. www.lacalcina.com. c/o Hotel La Calcina. Dorsoduro, 780 (Zattere). T: 041 5206466. Vaporetto line 2 or 5.1 (Zattere stop). Map E6
La Porta d’Acqua Set just steps from the Rialto Bridge, the restaurant is housed in a 15th century building and decorated with original frescoes dating back to 1700. Its cuisine conjures up the aroma of authentic Neapolitan cuisine, thanks to ingredients sourced exclusively from Campani. €€€. www.laportadacqua.it. San Polo, 1022/b (Rio Terà San Silvestro). T: 041 2412124. Vaporetto 1 (San Silvestro stop). Map E4
La Zucca While La Zucca isn’t only a vegetarian restaurant, it’s a great place for anyone who likes vegetables. Zucca’s chefs turn common garden-variety ingredients likes carrots and eggplant into works of culinary art. €€€. Closed on Sundays. www.lazucca. it. Santa Croce, 1762. T: 041 5241570. Vaporetto line 1 (San Stae stop). Map D3
Lineadombra Perched on the last bridge of the most beautiful promenade in Venice, le Zattere, this is the perfect spot for a romantic dinner where you can enjoy all the typical flavours of the Venetian lagoon. €€€. www.ristorantelineadombra.com. Dorsoduro, 19. T: 041 2411881. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Zattere stop) or 1 (Salute stop). Map E5
KOSHER RESTAURANT GHIMEL GARDEN The restaurant offers kosher specialties and typical fish-based dishes. The menu is accompanied by a great selection of strictly kosher wines. Halav. Lemehadrin. Open daily from 9.30am to 11pm. Serves Shabbat dinners on Friday evenings and at lunch on Saturdays strictly subject to reservation. ghimelgarden.com. Cannaregio, 2873 (Campo del Ghetto Nuovo). T: 041 8226131.
Locanda Cipriani For those who want to be close to Venice, yet feel worlds away, the Locanda Cipriani is a superb, romantic hideaway. Featuring a simple yet evocative atmosphere, it is popular among knowledgeable gourmets as a fantastic
restaurant. A farmhouse from the exterior, it has been renovated with great charm, exuding an understated elegance with beautiful country antiques and fresh flowers. €€€. www. locandacipriani.com. Piazza Santa Fosca 29 (Torcello island). T: 041 730150. Vaporetto line 12 from Fondamente Nove direction Burano, then take the 9 line). Off Map
Muro Comprising two separate areas. Muro San Stae serves wonderful pizza and traditional Venetian and Mediterranean dishes, prepared with fresh ingredients, while Muro Frari embodies Venice’s love for fish enhanced with an Eastern twist. Open daily 12pm-3pm and 7pm-10.30pm. €€€. Muro San Stae: Santa Croce 2048 (Campiello dello Spezier). T: 041 5241628. San Stae boat stop. Muro Frari: San Polo 2604 b/c. T: 041 5245310. Vaporetto line 1 (San Tomà stop). Map D4
Taverna al Remer Located near to the Rialto Bridge, this romantic ‘taverna’ is distinguished by its open-brick decor, which lends it an intimate, informal touch. Although the menu features simple, traditional dishes, it often surprises diners with unusual pairings. Closed on Wednesdays. €€€. www. alremer.it. Cannaregio, 5701. T. 041 5228789. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop).
Map F3
Wildner Opened by the Fullin family in 1960, it is patronized by locals and tourists alike. Its tranquil, relaxed atmosphere is further enhanced by a spectacular view over the Basin of St. Mark’s. Its menu is mainly fish-based and serves classic Venetian specialties including ‘Baccalà Mantecato’ and ‘Sarde in Saor’. Closed on Tuesdays. €€€. c/o Pensione Wildner. Castello, 4161. T: 041 5227463. Vaporetto line 4.1 or 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4
KOSHER HOUSE GIARDINO DEI MELOGRANI Located just a 10-minute walk from the Santa Lucia Railway Station, this is the only kosher residence in Venice. Nestling in the heart of Venice’s Ghetto, it is equipped with all the necessary accoutrements for the strict observance of Kasheruth and Halacha. www.pardesrimonim.net. Cannaregio, 2873. T: 041 8226131. CAFFETTERIA DEL MUSEO EBRAICO DI VENEZIA Indulge in flavoursome break at the cafè of Venice’s famous Jewish Museum. Situated in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo, the venue is set between two of Venice’s oldest synagogues. Halav. Cannaregio, 2902 (Campo del Ghetto Nuovo). T: 340 1046858.
LE MASCHERE A truly gourmet experience, guaranteed by its partnership with Eataly, makes this restaurant one of the most original venues in Venice. See page 37
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IN SEARCH OF AN AUTHENTIC RESTAURANT BY STEFANO TRAINE
Burano
►
Al Gatto Nero Trattoria da Romano
Cannaregio
Santa Croce
Isola di San Michele
Taverna al Remer
San Polo Dorsoduro
San Marco
Castello
Al Giardinetto da Severino
TRULY VENETIAN Looking for a really typical restaurant amidst the hundreds of venues you’ll come across while strolling through Venice? Here are a few tips to help you find the right place wherever you happen to be, in the ‘calli’, at the Lido or while enjoying an excursion to the islands…
Trattoria Do Forni Antico Pignolo
Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore Giudecca
AL GIARDINETTO DA SEVERINO RISTORANTE
Al Giardinetto
da Severino
Its menu offers the best of traditional Venetian cuisine: baccalà, Venetian-style liver, ‘granceola’, polenta with shrimp, a mixed fish fry with artichokes and seafood risotto.
www.algiardinetto.it Castello, 4928 (Salizada Zorzi). T: 041 5285332.
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AL GATTO NERO (BURANO) Freshly caught fish and pasta are served at this family-run trattoria in the heart of Burano. The ‘Gatto Nero’ has been the kingdom of Ruggero Bovo since 1965. Must-try dishes include the chef’s famous ‘risotto di Go’ or his ‘spaghetti alla granceola’. www.gattonero.com Burano - Via Giudecca, 88. T: 041 730120.
TAVERNA AL REMER Enjoy an authentic dining experience at this typically Venetian eatery, boasting a spectacular view over the Grand Canal.
www.alremer.it. Cannaregio, 5701 (Campiello Remer). T: 041 5228789.
TRATTORIA
DA ROMANO BURANO VENEZIA
TRATTORIA DA ROMANO (BURANO) Renowns for its simple yet delectable risottos ans its typical seafood dishes, this trattoria has been run by the Barbaro family for generations. Standouts includes mixed grill cooked over wood. www.daromano.it Burano - Via Galuppi, 221. T: 041 730030.
TRATTORIA DO FORNI Thanks to the quality of his dishes and a genuine sense of Venetian hospitality, its owner, Eligio Paties has turned his restaurant into a sought-after culinary destination. www.doforni.it San Marco, 468 (Calle dei Specchieri). T: 041 5232148.
ANTICO PIGNOLO
www.xxxxxx.org Viale xxxxx, 6 T: 02 xxxxx More info: www.wheremilan.com
Boasting an elegant ambience and impeccable service, this ‘iconic Venetian tavern’ is owned and run by Eligio Paties. Highlights include tantalizing meat and fish specialties and a well-stocked wine cellar. www.anticopignolo.com. San Marco, 451 (Calle dei Specchieri). T: 041 5228123. More info: www.where-venice.com w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 43
PHOTOS © SVIDA_WHEREITALIA
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MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS
A fragile heritage At the aristocratic Palazzo Giustinian, on the island of Murano, a museum hosts the largest historic collection of Murano glass, from Roman times to contemporary design. By Elena Peverata
F
rom a Patrician residence to a museum: Palazzo Giustinian shares the fortunate fate of many other aristocratic Venetian dwellings, with one important difference. It is located in Murano, an island renowned throughout the world for the excellence of its glass-making tradition. The museum in question is the Glass Museum, which, after finding a permanent home in 1861 amidst the frescoed rooms of the former diocese of the archbishop of Torcello, continued to expand. A large number of antique and contemporary glass pieces, donated by Murano-based glass factories, were added to the original archives. The museum’s collection was further enriched by glass objects from the Correr, Cicogna and Molin collections, which include several beautiful Renaissance pieces, as well as an 44 W H E R E V E N I C E I F E B R UA R Y 2017
archaeological section. The items displayed are arranged chronologically starting from relics dating back to Roman times (1st/5th centuries A.D.). The exhibition explores seven hundred years of the history of Murano glass, with pieces produced from the 4th century to the present, when the appeal of glass as a medium of expression became one of the themes of experimentation, and a privileged tool of interpretation used by many artists and designers. An exhibition space in its own right is represented by the former Conterie, an industrial glassmaking complex that has been transformed into a fascinating white cube, in which an original ‘timeline’, consisting of fifty objects from the Roman era to the 20th century, mark the most important
stages in the history of Murano glassmaking, and the technical stylistic evolutions that accompanied it. Until 25 April, the Spazio Conterie will host "Murano Today. Emotions of Glass", an exhibition featuring more than 150 works of art including vases, sculptures, design pieces and large sculptures and installations: all original, unique creations referencing the contemporary universe of Murano glassmaking. >> Open daily 10am-5pm (last admission 4pm). Ticket €10. Combo ticket Glass Museum + Lace Museum €12. www.museovetro.visitmuve.it Fondamenta Giustinian 8, Murano. T: 041 5274718.
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM
ATTRACTIONS & MONUMENTS
boat cruises visit www.canalgrande.it, or ask your concierge.
Basilica del Redentore Based on a project by the famous architect Andrea Palladio, the Basilica was built in 1577 on the island of Giudecca. It contains works by Tintoretto, Veronese and other important Venetian artists. It was built to celebrate the deliverance from the Black Death, which killed one third of the population. To commemorate the end of the plague, a solemn festival is still held at the church on the third Sunday of July. www.chorusvenezia.org. Campo Redentore (Giudecca). T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 41 and 2 (Redentore stop). Map E6
This is one of the largest churches in Venice, and, according to popular belief, is named after a statue of the Virgin Mary which supposedly had miraculous powers. It contains a significant number of artworks, mostly by Tintoretto and Bellini, but also by Titian and Palma the Younger. The complex also houses the smaller church of San Marziale, dating back to before the year 1000. This church can only be visited by booking. Open Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 12pm-5pm. www. madonnadellorto.org. Cannaregio, 3512. T: 041 719933. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1, 5.2, A (Orto stop). Map E2
Basilica di San Marco
Chiesa and Scuola Grande di San Rocco
This is the most important Catholic church in the city, and one of the most important monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. The famous winged lion, a symbol of the city and of the ancient ‘Venetian Republic’ is depicted on its pediment. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. You might have to queue for a time to get inside, but your wait will be well worthwhile. Although admission is free, you will have to pay to see several specific sights. In order not to miss your visit, be sure to inform yourself about the opening hours, as they are often subject to change. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-4pm; Sun (and Public Holidays) 2pm-4pm. www.basilicasanmarco.it. San Marco, 328. T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4
A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures, including an impressive number of works by Tintoretto as well those by Tiepolo and Giorgione. Opening hours subject to change www.scuolagrandesanrocco.org. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4
Campanile di San Marco (Bell Tower) This 98.6 metre bell tower is affectionately known to the Venetians as ‘el paron de casa’ (the master of the house) because it dominates the city, observing everything that lies below it. Resting lightly on the exquisite Loggetta del Sansovino, it has a particularly recognizable shape and a rich history. The original medieval bell tower was modified several times, and rebuilt entirely when it unexpectedly collapsed in 1902. It is worth going up to the tower, to enjoy a breathtaking view over the city. Although admission is not free, it is often included in joint tickets. Opening times are subject to change. T: 041 5225205. Vaporetto lines 1,2 (San Marco stop). Map F4
Canal Grande (Grand Canal) Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the main waterway of Venice and much more. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels, and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. For centuries, the Canal has witnessed lavish parties and workshop events, religious processions, capital executions, historical regattas and epidemics. Those visiting Venice should dedicate a few hours to a cruise on the Canal, not only for the pleasure of this experience, but because it offers several of the best panoramic views of Venetian palaces. It is is almost impossible to list all of them, but for more information you can visit the www. canalgrandevenezia.it website. For excursions and
Chiesa della Madonna dell’Orto
Ghetto di Venezia Although documentation chronicles the presence of a Jewish community in Venice from before the year 1000, it was only during the 6th century, due to political unrest in Europe and a significant increase in non-Christian immigrants that, for the first time, the Venetian Senate, issued a decree stating that the Jewish population should move to a specific part of the city, where they could be better ‘controlled’. Thus Jews were forced to move to this, then, remote northwestern corner of Venice, to an abandoned site of a 14thcentury foundry (‘ghetto’ is old Venetian dialect for "foundry," a word that would soon be used throughout Europe and the world to depict an area where isolated minority groups lived. The Venetian Ghetto nevertheless became a thriving, vibrant district. In 1797, when Napoleon rolled into town, the ghetto was disbanded as an institution, and Jews were free to move elsewhere. Today it is still the center of Venice's ever-diminishing community of Jewish families. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1 (Ponte Guglie stop). Map D2
Palazzo Ca’ Vendramin Calergi (Casinò di Venezia) Overlooking the Grand Canal, this building houses the oldest casino in the world. An ageold destination, for aristocratic travelers from both East and West, Venice was the first city in the world to open a gaming house way back in 1683. Today its old-world ambience continues to play host to several of the world’s most classical games. The casino is open to everyone aged 18 and over and proper attire is required. www.casinovenezia.it. Cannaregio, 2040 (Calle Colombina). Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marcuola stop). Map E3
Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square) Known throughout the world, this square is the heart of Venice and its most symbolic landmark. It consists of a central, trapezoid-shaped unit integrated with other areas. Measuring 170 metres in length, it faces directly onto the water
and is surrounded by several magnificent stately buildings. Its incalculable scenic beauty makes it one of the most widely-photographed places in the world. The best thing to do here is to look around and exult, but don’t forget that the square has a number of specific landmark sites, whose interiors can also be visited: the Basilica of San Marco (see listing), the Bell Tower (see listing), Palazzo Ducale (see Museums listings), the Clock Tower (see listing) and some 18th century cafés, the Florian and the Quadri, to mention the bestknown... Vaporetto lines, 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4
Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs) The Bridge of Sighs is a Baroque bridge that, by crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from which its name derives are not those of lovers, but those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. Open daily 8.30am7pm. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 31024 (piazza San Marco). T:041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1,2, (San Marco stop). Map F4
Ponte di Rialto (Rialto Bridge) This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Witness to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it (shutterbugs permitting), but even more spectacular when seen from the water, perhaps aboard a gondola. Originally built during medieval times as a pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto Market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. Unfortunately, it is not accessible to everyone; between upward and downward slopes, it includes as many as 120 steps. San Polo, 30125
VENICE BIENNALE For more than a century, the Venice Biennale has been one of the most prestigious cultural institutions in the world. Renowned for its avant-garde approach to research and the promotion of new artistic trends, it organizes important international exhibitions related to art and architecture (it is held bi-annually in odd-numbered years) at its Giardini and Arsenale sites, and is considered the world’s number one platform for its International Exhibition of Cinematographic Art (annual), its Music and Theatre Festival and its more recent Dance Festival. In addition to its traditional appointments, it has added new, permanent activities over time. Costs, venues and opening hours vary according to the activity underway. Voucher Venezia Unica holders are eligible for discounts. Main sites: Ca’ Giustinian, San Marco 1364/a; Arsenale, Calle della Tana, 2169/S; Giardini della Biennale, Castello (between Riva degli Schiavoni and Sant’Elena). www.labiennale.org
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(access from Ruga dei Oresi or from Salizada Pio X). Vaporetto linea 1,2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
San Giorgio Maggiore Boasting a monastery and an adjoining museum (see Museum listings), the church of San Giorgio Maggiore sits on the little island of San Giorgio Maggiore across from St. Mark's square. One of the masterpieces of Andrea Palladio, the church, and the entire complex, which holds a number of marvelous surprises including a maze, is worth visiting. This small island, that is a part of the panorama that can be enjoyed from St. Mark's square, is separated from the Giudecca by the lagoon island of La Grazia. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 5227827. Vaporetto line 2 (San Giorgio stop). Map G5
Santa Maria della Salute (Church of the Virgin Mary of Good Health) Generally referred to as “La Salute,” this crown jewel of 17th-century baroque architecture proudly stands at a commercially and aesthetically important point, almost directly opposite the Piazza San Marco, where the Grand Canal empties into the lagoon. Designed by Longhena, whose work was influenced by Palladio, it was constructed to honor the Virgin Mary for delivering Venice from the plague of 1630. On 21 November each year, a popular religious celebration, marking the official end of the Black Death, is held here. The church is also famous for its organ concerts. Open daily 9am-12noon/3pm5.30pm. www.basilicasalutevenezia.it. Fondamenta Salute, 30123. T: 041 2743911. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map E5
Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari Known by the Venetians simply as ‘i Frari’, this landmark features 17 monumental altars and is the largest church in the city. This medieval church in Gothic-Venetian style, houses, in addition to two paintings by Titian, the tombs and funerary monuments of numerous famous people, including Titian, Monteverdi and Canova. chorusvenezia.org. Campo dei Frari. T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 1, 2, N (San Tomà stop). Map D4
Santi Giovanni e Paolo One of the city’s most important examples of medieval architecture, Santi Giovanni e Paolo is considered the Pantheon of Venice because all the Venetian doges, starting from the 13th century, are buried here, together with numerous other notable personages. www.basilicasantigiovanniepaolo.it. Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo (Please note: this site might be marked in Venetian dialect as ‘san ZaniPolo’ on the city’s maps). T: 041 5235913. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Fondamente Nove stop, Ospedale Civile stop). Map F3
Scala Contarini del Bovolo Palazzo Contarini is an exquisite, late Gothic building. However, what makes it such a popular attraction today, was the addition, by its architects, in 1499, of an amazing, external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. Open Tues-Sun: 10am-
1.30pm/2pm-6pm. www.scalacontarinidelbovolo. com. c/o Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo. San Marco, 4299 (Campo Manin, Rio San Luca). T: 041 3096605. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map E4
Scuola Grande dei Carmini Housed in a 16th century palazzo, it is the seat of an ancient brotherhood and all its original furnishing and a number of priceless oil paintings have been preserved intact. The drama builds when entering the Sala del Capitolo, whose ceiling features nine exceptional canvases painted by the brotherhood’s most famous member, Giambattista Tiepolo. Open daily 11am-5pm. www.scuolagrandecarmini.it. Dorsoduro, 2616 (Campo dei Carmini, Campo Santa Margherita). T: 041 5289420. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). Map C5
Teatro La Fenice Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only strongly associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it is also a stunning feat of architecture. teatrolafenice. it. Ticket office T: 041 2424. San Marco, 1965 (Campo San Fantin). Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E4
The islands Although the whole of Venice lies on an archipelago, an ‘excursion to the islands’ generally means a half-day cruise on a boat to visit the islands of Murano, Torcello and Burano, three charming, small islands, rich in history and tradition. Murano is famous throughout the world for its hand-blown glass (artisanal workshops still display glassmakers at work). Torcello, birthplace of the lagoon, once a thriving town with 8,000 inhabitants, is today a semirural island with only 17 permanent residents and two medieval churches that speak poignantly of past glories, and Burano, one of the most photographed sights in the world, thanks to colourful houses reflected in its canals. Burano is also famous for its artisanal lace work and a particular kind of biscuit, which also resembles lace. Find out more and buy tickets for your trip to these magical destinations. Visitors love these islands, and there may be a risk of not finding a seat on the boat.
MUSEUMS & EXHIBITION SITES Ca’ Pesaro-International Gallery of Modern Art
The phenomenon of 'acqua alta'
Acqua alta (High Water) is a Venetian phenomenon that involves the entire city when either the planetary tides – the Scirocco wind and wave motion in the Adriatic, or a combination of all these elements – cause an increased flow of water into Venice’s lagoon. When this happens, the city is flooded. While causing tourists serious inconvenience, the ‘acqua alta’ is not at all like the experience described in the horror stories that do the rounds each winter. For a city built on water, it’s a way of life and even a one-of-a-kind experience. If you happen to be in Venice on an ‘acqua alta’ day (on average, it occurs once every three years) invest in a pair of wellies, arm yourself with a camera and explore the city to your heart’s content. Information and updates on www.comune.venezia.it/maree.
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Hosts important 19th and 20th century collections of paintings and sculptures, including masterpieces by Klimt and Chagall as well as noteworthy oeuvres by the likes of Kandinsky, Klee, Matisse and Moore. Other highlights include a rich selection of works by Italian artists and an important selection of graphics. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10. www. capesaro.visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 2076. Vaporetto line 2 (San Stae stop). Map E3
Ca’ Rezzonico-Museum of Eighteenth Century Venetian Art The large staircase of this magnificent palazzo leads to several elegant rooms housing paintings, sculptures and 18th century furnishings (first
MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS
floor): the ‘Portego dei dipinti’ featuring canvases by Canaletto, a room dedicated to Longhi and the frescoes painted by Giandomenico Tiepolo detached from the walls of Villa Zianigo (second floor); the rooms of the Farmacia Ai do San Marchi and the exquisite Pinacoteca Egidio Martini (third floor). Alternately, the Browning Mezzanine houses the works of the Mestrovich Collection, including works by artists like Tintoretto and Bonifacio de' Pitati. Closed on Tues, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10. www.carezzonico.visitmuve. it. Dorsoduro 3136 (Fondamenta Rezzonico). T: 041 2410100. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). Map D5
| SIGHTSEEING
The “Scuole Grandi”
Casa Museo Andrich-Modern Art Gallery and Historic Garden The house of the two artists, Clementina and Lucio Andrich, testifies to the artistic vibrancy of Venice between the 1950s and the 1980s. Silks, tapestries, glass, sculptures, paintings, engravings, mosaics and furniture are displayed on a rotational basis and can be admired during a guided tour. Set in an 11,000 square meter orchard-garden, inhabited by herons and flamingoes from March to September, Casa Andrich overlooks the beautiful lagoon landscape of Torcello. Open daily. Guided tours in Italian, English and French are conducted at 10am11am; 2.30pm-3.30pm; 4.30pm-5.30pm. Visits must be booked online (www.veneziaunica.it). Ticket pricing varies based on the type of visit chosen. www.museoandrich.it. Torcello island, 4/L. T: 347 2391861. Vaporetto line 12. Off Map
Fondazione Bevilacqua La Masa The Foundation, which has 4 spaces in Venice, serves as a launch pad for projects devoted to photography, design, graphics and applied arts. In addition to awarding prizes and scholarships, it also offers under 35 artists a chance annually, to set up ateliers, free-of-charge, at its Palazzo Carminati (San Stae) and SS. Cosma e Damiano (Giudecca) spaces. Palazzetto Tito, the headquarters of the Foundation’s archives and offices, promotes the catalogues of collective and personal exhibitions, while the space dedicated to exhibitions is located in St. Mark’s Square, under the arcades of Procuratie Nuove. www. bevilacqualamasa.it. Palazzetto Tito, Dorsoduro, 2826. T: 041 5207797. La Galleria di Piazza San Marco, San Marco, 71/c (Procuratie Nuove). T: 041 5237819. Palazzo Carminati, Santa Croce 1882/a. Complesso di SS. Cosma e Damiano, Giudecca 620.Map F5
Fondazione Cini-San Giorgio Maggiore Set against the magnificent backdrop of the Basin of St Mark, the Foundation was established in 1951 by Count Vittorio Cini to restore the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore and to create an international centre of cultural activities. The Foundation is housed in the monumental complex of the former Benedictine Monastery of San Giorgio Maggiore, a place of inestimable architectural and artistic prestige, thanks to works by several of Italy’s greatest 16th and 17th century masters. Enlarged in the 16th century by Andrea Palladio, who also designed its refectory, the church of San Giorgio Maggiore and the Cloister of Cypresses, in addition to numerous other treasures, the complex hosts an impressive collection of paintings by Jacopo Tintoretto, as well as several 16th and 17th century works of arts. Guided tours in Italian, English and French on Saturdays and Sundays. For information and booking T: 041 2201215. Full price ticket €10.
Scuola di San Rocco
Among Venice’s countless art treasures, buildings known as ‘Scuole’ or ‘Scuole Grandi’ might be mentioned as unmissable attractions. It goes without saying that these are not schools in the accepted sense of the word, but one of the innumerable distinctive features of this unique city. During the ancient Republic of Venice, from the 13th century onwards, the word ‘Scuola’ was, in fact, used to describe a brotherhood, or rather an association of lay members who met to provide assistance to poor people, widows, orphans, old and sick people. The ‘Scuole’ were divided into Devotional Schools (or Scuole Grandi) which gathered for religious purposes in the name of a patron saint, Schools of Arts and Crafts and Schools of Foreign Communities (Scuole Piccole or Scuolette). Until the fall of the Republic, they represented a real kind of welfare system, initially destined for members but later extended to the entire population. The ‘Scuole Grandi’ had countless means at their disposal, a part of which they invested to embellish their own headquarters with paintings by well-known artists including Tintoretto, Jacopo Palma il Giovane or Giambattista Tiepolo. As time passed, the most important Schools built palaces for their residents designed by famous architects, and adorned them with
paintings by the best artists of the era. After the fall of the Republic of Venice in 1797, the Schools were suppressed by a Napoleonic edict (1807) and within the space of a short time their assets ended up at antique markets and collections throughout the world. Several of the best preserved Schools were reconstituted and transformed into museums that can now be visited by the public. These include the Great Schools of San Giovanni Evangelista (www. scuolasangiovanni.it), the Scuola di San Rocco (www.scuolagrandesanrocco. it) and the Scuola dei Carmini (www. scuolagrandecarmini.it). Others, including the Scuole Grandi di San Teodoro (www. scuolagrandesanteodoro.it), the Scuola di San Marco (the seat of the city’s hospital), www.scuolagrandesanmarco.it), and the Scuola di Santa Maria Giustizia or San Fantin, currently home to Venice’s Faculty of Science, Literature and Arts (www. ateneoveneto.org), were converted into public exhibition spaces and institutions. The Scuola Dalmata di San Giorgio degli Schiavoni and the Scuola di San Nicolò dei Greci (currently Venice’s Museum of Icons), are ‘small’ schools whose artistic treasures are well worth a visit. Lastly, an interesting fact: the facade of the Scuola Grande di Santa Maria della Carità, suppressed in 1806, is now the entrance to the magnificent Accademia Galleries.
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St. Mark’s, the soul of Venice
Cannaregio, 3932 (Strada Nuova). T: 041 5200345. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E3
Museo Archeologico Nazionale Housed with the Correr Museum and the Marciana Library in the rooms of the Procuratie Nuove in St. Mark’s Square, the museum boasts an extraordinary collection of Greek and Roman sculptures as well as a noteworthy selection of ancient coins, gems and cameos, bronze artifacts and pottery. Other highlights include Egyptian and Assyrian-Babylonian antiques and priceless finds of late antiquity. Open daily. www. polomuseale.venezia.beniculturali.it. Entrance and ticket office: Correr Museum, San Marco 52 (piazzetta San Marco). T: 041 2967663. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 - 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F5
Museo Correr
The Basilica of San Marco, with its bell tower and square overlooking the water, is one of Italy’s and the world’s most recognizable (and photographed) landmarks. In addition to being the city’s most important church, the Basilica is a monument to the history of Venice, a grand treasure chest of Venetian art and lavish spoils garnered from the eastern Mediterranean. Its dazzling polychrome façade with its marbles and mosaics, spires and domes, and Venice’s famous winged lion, the symbol of the city for centuries, is revealed in all of its glory. The interior, featuring an abundance of exquisitely gilded Byzantine mosaics, is definitely worth a visit. A visit to its Museum and treasury, located on the upper floor, is a not-to-be-missed highlight.
www.cini.it. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 2710280. Vaporetto line 2 (Isola di San Giorgio stop). Map G6
Gallerie dell'Accademia di Venezia
VENETIAN MUSEUM HUB Following a Napoleonic decree, the Gallerie dell'Accademia were instituted as an educational adjunct to the Academy of Fine Arts. They host the most important collection of Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo, and works by several important landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The monumental complex hosting these works occupies the ancient church of Santa Maria della Carità, the Scuola Grande della Carità and the Canonici Lateranensi convent complex designed by Andrea Palladio in 1561. Open Mon 8.15am-2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Full ticket price: €9. Ticket pricing
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PLEASE NOTE The Basilica of San Marco is a Catholic church that welcomes worshippers and tourists alike. It is open daily for prayer and to allow visitors to admire its extraordinary artistic heritage. However, at certain times or on certain days, it is entirely given over to religious ceremonies and visits are suspended. For more information visit www.basilicasanmarco.it to check that it is open for visits. On entering, visitors are asked to respect the rules: appropriate clothing must be worn, as this is a place of worship. Taking photographs is forbidden and visitors are asked to lower their voices at all times. Please note that you will probably have to wait for about 45 minutes in order to gain access to the Basilica.
may vary during temporary exhibitions. www. gallerieaccademia.it. Dorsoduro 1050 (Campo della Carità). T: 041 5222247. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop). Map D5
Galleria Giorgio Franchetti alla Ca' d'Oro The Ca' d'Oro, an ancient 15th century Patrician dwelling, hosts the art collections that were donated to the State by Baron Giorgio Franchetti. These include period furnishing, tapestries, paintings, sculptures and bronzes. Its current collection features a mixture of Renaissance works from the Lombard, Venetian, Reggio Emilia and Flemish schools, as well as masterpieces like Andrea Mantegna’s renowned St. Sebastian. An interesting collection of ceramic relics from the Venetian lagoon are housed at Ca' Duodo, the building lying adjacent to Ca’ d’Oro. Open Mon 8.15am-2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Full ticket price: €6. Ticket pricing may vary during temporary exhibitions. www.cadoro.org.
The museum is located in the old Royal Palace in St. Mark’s Square and includes the Napoleonic Wing and the Procuratie Nuove. Built to house Teodoro Correr’s collection, it features several exhibition spaces dedicated to the art and history of Venice. These include the neo-classical rooms housing sculptures by Antonio Canova, historic collections describing the changing cityscape of Venice and, finally, the pinacoteca, boasting important masterpieces of Venetian art from its origins to the 16th century. Open daily. www. correr.visitmuve.it. San Marco 52 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2405211. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso stop or, San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 - 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Museo d'Arte Orientale-Ca’ Pesaro The museum, located on the top floor of the Galleria Internazionale d’Arte Moderna, is housed in an ancient building on the Grand Canal designed by Baldassare Longhena for the Pesaro family. Here, you will find one of the most important collections in the world of Japanese art from the Edo period: more than 30,000 pieces including swords and daggers, Japanese armour, delicate lacquer ware palanquin and priceless porcelain. Other highlights include extensive sections dedicated to Chinese and Indonesian art. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket (integrated with the International Gallery of Modern Art) €10. www.arteorientale.org. Santa Croce, 2076.T: 041 5241173. Vaporetto line 2 (San Stae stop). Map E3
Museo del Merletto (Lace Museum) Located in Burano, the museum is housed in a small building, formerly home to Venice’s famous Lace School. Boasting more than two-hundred rare, priceless pieces, the exhibition chronicles the evolution of the art of lace-making in Venice from the 16th to 20th centuries. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €5. Joint ticket for the Glass Museum and the Lace Museum €12. www.museomerletto.visitmuve.it. Piazza Galuppi 187, Burano. T: 041 730034. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2, 5.2 (Fondamenta Nove stop), and then line 12 (Burano stop). Off Map
Museo del Vetro (Glass Museum) Housed in the aristocratic palazzo Giustinian, on the island of Murano, the collections exhibited at the museum are arranged in chronological order: in addition to the archaeological section featuring Roman remains from the 1st and 2nd centuries A.D., you can also find an extensive range of historical
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cemetery closed on Saturdays and on Jewish holidays, 25 December, 1 January, 1 May. Full price ticket €4; Jewish Museum + guided tour of the synagogues : full price ticket €10. www. museoebraico.it. Cannaregio 2902\b. T: 041 71535. Vaporetto lines 1-2 (San Marcuola-Ghetto stop), lines 41-42-51-52 (Ponte delle Guglie-Ghetto stop). Map D2
Museo Querini Stampalia
PALAZZO CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO This late Gothic building, formerly home to the Contarini family, eight of whose members were Doges of the Republic of Venice, is renowned for its famous cylindrical tower and spiral staircase, named ‘del Bovolo’, the Venetian word for snail: one of the city’s foremost architectural gems. www.scalacontarinidelbovolo.com objet d’art made from Murano glass, including important pieces produced between the 15th and 20th centuries. Open daily. Full price ticket €10. Joint ticket for the Glass Museum + Lace Museum €12. www.museovetro.visitmuve.it. Fondamenta Giustinian, 8. Murano. T: 041 5274718. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2 (Museo Murano stop). Off Map
Museo di San Marco The itinerary that you’ll follow inside the museum, will take you from the historic area above the atrium-narthex of the Basilica and the former Banqueting Hall of the Doges, through the three extensive themes that are a part of the heritage of St. Mark’s Basilica: Mosaics, Textiles, the Quadriga and the Antico. Particularly noteworthy, amongst its relics and artworks, are the famous gilded bronze horses of St. Marks and the Basilica’s ancient fragments of mosaics, preserved in special containers known as ‘cassine’. The tour of the museum takes visitors through various areas of the Basilica, we therefore suggest wearing attire that is respectful of the religious nature of the Basilica. Open daily 9.45am-4.45pm. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €5. www.museosanmarco.it. San Marco 328 (Procuratoria di San Marco). T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto linee 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 o 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Museo delle Icone The museum is owned by the Hellenic Institute of Byzantine and Post-Byzantine Studies of Venice and is located on the first floor of the Confraternita dei Greci (Scoletta di San Nicolò, designed by Baldassare Longhena in the 17th century). It houses approximately 80 Byzantine and post-Byzantine icons dating from the 14th through 18th centuries, as well as illuminated codes, sacred garments embroidered in gold and small artisanal artifacts of considerable historic and artistic value. Open daily from 9am-5pm.
www.istitutoellenico.org/museo. Castello 3412 (Campo dei Greci). T: 041 5226581. Vaporetto lines 1, 2, 4.1, 5.1, 14, 15, 19, 20 (San Zaccaria stop).Map G4
Museo di Storia Naturale Housed in the Palazzo del Fondaco dei Turchi on the Grand Canal, its original, contemporary layout is divided into three sections each of which is, in actual fact, a museum within a museum. Its collection includes more than two million pieces: zoological and paleontological collections, ancient herbariums, plant and fish fossils, a collection of minerals, a wunderkammer (cabinet of curiosities) housing more than 2,000 examples of different animal parts and a Venetian fish tank. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €8. www.msn.visitmuve.it. Santa Croce, 1730 (Fondaco dei Turchi). T: 041 2750206. Vaporetto line 1 (San Stae stop). Map D3
Museo Ebraico di Venezia
JEWISH MUSEUM This a ‘dispersed museum’; a highly unusual urban architectural museum complex that includes the museum itself, the Ghetto, synagogues and an ancient cemetery. It contains a small but precious collection of artifacts related to the long history of the Jews in Venice. Thanks to guided tours (in Italian and English), you can visit three of the area’s five historic synagogues, located between the Ghetto Vecchio (Old Ghetto) and the Ghetto Nuovo (New Ghetto), and the Old Cemetery (16th-18th century) in San Nicolò del Lido. Finally, to commemorate the tragedy of the Second World War, there is a bronze relief Holocaust Memorial in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo. Jewish Museum: open 10am7pm (from 1 June to 30 September); 10am-5.30pm (from 1 October to 31 May). Guided tours of the Museum + synagogues: hourly from 10.30am to 4.30pm (1 October-31 May) or until 5.30pm (1 June-30 September). Museum, synagogues and
The Querini Stampalia house-museum is an opulent patrician dwelling located on the ‘piano nobile’ of a 16th century palazzo, and features several unusual architectural elements designed by Carlo Scarpa, Valeriano Pastor and Mario Botta. Works displayed include paintings by Giovanni Bellini, Jacopo Palma the Elder and the Younger, Bernardo Strozzi, Marco and Sebastiano Ricci, Giambattista Tiepolo, Pietro Longhi and Gabriel Bella. In addition to the museum, the complex also has a library and a space dedicated to contemporary art exhibitions. Closed on Mondays. Museum and Display Areas full ticket price €10; Scarpa Area full ticket price €8. www. querinistampalia.it. Castello, 5252 (Santa Maria Formosa). T: 041 2711411. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (Rialto stop), lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1, 5.2, 7, 20 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Museo Storico Navale della Marina Militare The Historic Naval Museum, the most important of its kind in Italy, is owned by the Italian Navy and is devoted to Venice’s seafaring history. In addition to the main building, whose exhibition spaces span 42 rooms and five floors, the ‘Padiglione delle Navi’ (Ships Pavilion), located in the Arsenale’s old ‘Oars Workshop’, is also a part of the museum. Built in the mid-16th century as a workshop to build and store oars, since 1980 it has housed an impressive collection of historical vessels, and is an extension of the main museum’s headquarters. > Venice’s Historic Naval Museum (Castello 2148, Riva San Biasio. T: 041 2441399) is currently closed for renovation but the Padiglione delle Navi, located just
Originally intended to adorn a garden, Antonio Canova's Orpheus (1776) is now housed at the CORRER MUSEUM. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 49
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ornate garments. The building is now used to host art exhibitions. The museum is open only during temporary exhibitions. Open 10am-6pm. Closed on Tuesdays. Please note that prices vary depending on the exhibition being shown. www.fortuny.visitmuve. it. San Marco 3958 (Campo San Benedeto). T: 041 5200995. Vaporetto line 1 (Sant’Angelo stop), 2 (San Samuele stop). Map E4
Palazzo Grassi Museo Punta della Dogana
GALLERIE DELL’ACCADEMIA This Venetian museum hub hosts the most important collection of Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Don’t miss the outstanding works by Bellini, Giorgione, Titian, Tintoretto, Tiepolo and Canaletto. www.gallerieaccademia.it
steps from the Naval Museum, is open for public viewing, > Padiglione delle Navi: from 1 June to 31 October: open daily, 8.45am-5pm (last admission 4.30pm); from 1 November to 31 May: Mon-Thurs 8.45am-1.30pm, Fri 8.45am-5pm (last admission 4.30pm), Sat-Sun and public holidays 10am-5pm. Full ticket price €5. www.marina.difesa.it. Castello 2162/c (Rio della Tana). T: 041 2711411. Vaporetto line 1, 4.1, 4.2 (Arsenale stop). Map H5
Museo Vedova-Magazzino del Sale The objective of the Emilio and Annabianca Vedova Foundation is to promote the art and work of artist Emilio Vedova with a series of cultural initiatives (research, exhibitions, educational activities, conventions, study grants and awards). Its two permanent exhibition spaces, used to showcase works by the latter, also host temporary exhibitions and events on a rotational basis: the Magazzino del Sale 266 – based on a project by Renzo Piano – and the former Studio Vedova. Closed on Tuesdays, 25 December. Full price ticket €8; www.fondazionevedova.org. Magazzino del Sale Dorsoduro 266 (Zattere). Spazio Vedova –Ticket Office and Bookshop Dorsoduro 50 (Zattere). T: 041 2410833. Vaporetto line 1 (Accademia stop or Salute stop), 2 (Accademia stop), 5.1/5.2 (Spirito Santo stop), 6 (Zattere stop). Map E6
Palazzo Cini-La Galleria Situated in the Venetian 'Museums Mile', between the Accademia, the Peggy Guggenheim collection and the Punta della Dogana, the 16th century Palazzo Cini in San Vio is the house-museum of Count Vittorio Cini, and houses some remarkable art collections: 14th-15th century paintings from
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Tuscany and Ferraro (Piero della Francesca, Filippo Lippi, Dosso Dossi and Cosmè Tura), period furniture, silverware, ivories and ceramics. Closed on Tuesdays. Full price ticket €10. www. palazzocini.it. Dorsoduro 864 (San Vio). T: 041 2710217. Vaporetto Lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop), lines 2, 4, 5, 6 (Zattere stop). Map E5
Palazzo Ducale A landmark attraction, a masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, Venice’s Ducal Palace features a number of different and intricate architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it not only houses temporary exhibitions but can also be visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. The public entrance to the Doge’s Palace is through the ‘Porta del Frumento’ which leads to the spacious council rooms and then onwards to the exquisite rooms of the Doge’s Apartment. Other highlights on this route include the prisons and loggias overlooking the square and the lagoon. Open daily. www.palazzoducale. visitmuve.it. San Marco, 1 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti), 5.1 or 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Palazzo Fortuny Mariano Fortuny (Granada 1871 - Venice 1949) transformed Palazzo Pesaro degli Orfei into his own personal atelier for photography, set-design, textile creations and paintings. The museum’s collections boasts an extensive collection of pieces and materials commissioned for important projects: paintings, lighting systems, photography and
Overlooking the Grand Canal and recently restored by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, Venice’s 18th century Palazzo Grassi and the former harbour of Punta della Dogana are two contemporary art museums funded by the François Pinault Foundation. They host important collective or monographic exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault Collection, one of the world’s largest collections of contemporary art. Palazzo Grassi’s ‘Teatrino’, an adjunct to the exhibition spaces, offers an actionpacked calendar of conferences, concerts and screenings of an international scope. Open daily 10am-7pm. Closed on Tuesdays, 25 December. Full price ticket €15; Combo ticket: €20. www. palazzograssi.it. T: 041 2001057 Palazzo Grassi San Marco 30124 (Campo San Samuele). Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop), 1 (Sant’Angelo stop). Map D4 • Museo Punta della Dogana Dorsoduro 2. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map F5
Palazzo Grimani Originally the home of the Grimani family, it was enlarged in the 16th century and decorated with frescoes, marbles and stuccoes that made it one of Venice’s most unique buildings in terms of its architecture, history and cultural and artistic offerings. Opened to the public in 2008 following its in-depth restoration, it is now a museum hosting a few select works, typifying the style of 16th century collections. Open Mon 8.15am2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Closed 1 January, 1 May, 25 December. Full ticket price: €4. Ticket pricing may vary during temporary exhibitions. www.palazzogrimani.org. Castello, 4858. Info and bookings T: 041 5200345. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (Rialto stop), line 14, 5.1, 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Palazzo Mocenigo - Centro Studi di Storia del Tessuto e del Costume Formerly a patrician residence, in 1985 it became the Study Centre of the History of Fabrics and Costumes. Its exhibition spaces explore various aspects of the lives and activities of Venetian aristocrats between the 17th and 18th centuries. The exhibits on display include opulent garments and olden-day accessories, with a section dedicated to perfume. The palazzo’s furnishings and paintings have been integrated with a number of works originating from the warehouses of Venice’s civic museums. PASSION TIP Don’t miss the itineraries dedicated to Perfume and the “Perfume Composition Courses” (2 hours, 80/100 euro per participant, including Kit and perfume). Reservation is necessary: mocenigo. visitmuve.it/workshop. Closed on Mon. Full price ticket €8. www.mocenigo.visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 1992. T: 041 721798. Vaporetto line 1 (San Stae stop). Map E3
Peggy Guggenheim Collection Palazzo Venier dei Leoni The museum, boasting one of the most important collections of 20th century art in Europe, hosts
MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS
the personal collection of American heiress Peggy Guggenheim. Her palatial canal side home showcases her collection of Cubist, Furturist, Surrealist and Abstract Expressionist art, with works by almost 200 artists, including Picasso, Pollock, Kandinsky, Miró, de Chirico and Dalí. It also hosts the works of other important collections and prestigious temporary exhibitions. Open Wed-Mon 10am-6pm; Closed on Tuesdays. Full price ticket €15. www.guggenheim-venice.it. Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, Dorsoduro 701 (Canal Grande). T: 041 2405.440/419. Vaporetto line 2 (Accademia stop), line 1 (Accademia stop or Salute stop). Map E5
Sale Monumentali della Biblioteca Marciana The old St. Mark’s Library, or Sansoviniana Library, is a museum space that is used to host exhibitions and events. Designed mainly by Jacopo Sansovino, standouts include a Stairway of Honour, a Vestibule and a Reading Room embellished with 16th century decorations. Together with Palazzo della Zecca, where the reading rooms and offices are located, it is still a part of the monumental headquarters of the Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana which in addition to rare books also hosts priceless, antique manuscripts. Open daily. www.marciana.venezia.sbn.it. Entrance and Ticket Office: Museo Correr, San Marco 52 (piazzetta San Marco). T: 041 2407211. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso stop, San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1, 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F5
Scuola Grande di San Giovanni Evangelista Founded in 1261, the School is housed in a complex featuring several different architectural styles, including masterpieces of Renaissance art like its superb double staircase (1498) right up to the final major architectural changes made in the 18th century to enhance the Sala Capitolare. It contains numerous artistic masterpieces,
including works by Tintoretto, Palma the Younger and Tiepolo. Today, the School is a prestigious space used to host congresses, art exhibitions and concerts. Tours are suspended during congresses. Visit the website to check the days on which the museum is open to the public. Open daily, 9.30am-5pm. Full price ticket €5; Scuola Grande + church €8. www.scuolasangiovanni.it. San Polo, 2454 (Campiello della Scuola). T: 041 718234. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4
Scuola Grande di San Rocco The headquarters of the San Rocco Brotherhood, this stunning building, to which hardly any modifications have been made, hosts more than 60 masterpieces by artists of the likes of Giorgione, Tiepolo and Titian, still presented in their original layout. Its establishment represented an important moment in the history of 16th century Venetian art, above all thanks to Tintoretto’s famous cycle of Old and New Testament scenes. Open daily, 9.30am-5.30pm. Closed on 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10; Scuola Grande + church €8. www. scuolagrandesanrocco. it. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco stop). T: 041 718234. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4
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Torre dell’Orologio (Clock Tower) The Clock or Mori Tower dates back to the 15th century and is one of Venice’s most famous architectural attractions. Like a triumphal arch, it dominates the entrance from St. Mark’s Square to the city’s shop-filled Mercerie (from the word ‘Merchandise’). If you stand close up, you can observe the complex mechanisms of this large astrological clock, a masterpiece of technology and engineering. After climbing the spiral staircase, you emerge onto its terraces from which you can enjoy a magnificent view over St. Mark’s Square. Admission subject to reservation, with an expert tour guide. (T: 848 082000 Mon-Fri 9am-1pm/2pm6pm; Sat 9am-2pm; www.torreorologio.visitmuve. it). Full price ticket €12. www.torreorologio. visitmuve.it. Piazza San Marco. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 or 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Cold-painted terracotta by Arturo Martini, named ‘Prostitute’ (1913), donated by Maria Barbantini to the CA’ PESARO, International Gallery of Modern Art. capesaro.visitmuve.it
MUSEUM PASS Just one ticket for 11 museums > The Museum Pass is a cumulative ticket that offers access to all the permanent collections of Venice’s civic and affiliated museums. It is valid for 6 months and allows one entry per museum site. Full price ticket €24 > This ticket is valid for: Palazzo Ducale, Museo Correr, Museo Archeologico Nazionale, Sale Monumentali della Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana; Ca’ Rezzonico-Museo del Settecento Veneziano; Museo di Palazzo Mocenigo e Centro Studi di Storia del Tessuto e del Costume; Casa di Carlo Goldoni and Biblioteca di Studi Teatrali; Ca’ Pesaro-Galleria Internazionale d’Arte Moderna + Museo d’Arte Orientale; Museo del Vetro; Museo del Merletto; Museo di Storia Naturale. Info & Reservations: www.visitmuve.it Call center 848 082000. From abroad +39 041 42730892.
Museo Correr
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ENTERTAINMENT
Venice in love Due to its all-consuming beauty, Venice is one of the most romantic destinations in the world. Although Valentine’s Day (14 February) might be overshadowed by Carnival festivities, don’t worry, you’re definitely in the right place. By Elena Binda
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here’s no doubt about it, the height of romance is when you exchange sweet nothings and kisses during a gondola ride. Visit www.venicegondolaride.com or ask your concierge to arrange a personalized tour. If you prefer enjoying special effects in silence, you can take a helicopter tour over the Lagoon (www.heliairvenice.it). You can also follow in the footsteps of Casanova by organizing a walking tour of the city. However, be careful of the message this could give. Although Casanova was a famous lover, he was not the epitome of faithfulness or commitment… To be on the safe side and, weather permitting, the sunset option from an optimal vantage point is always a winner. Old-time favourites 52 W H E R E V E N I C E I F E B R UA R Y 2017
include the bell tower of St. Mark’s Square, or the Rialto Bridge, but the Island of San Giorgio, the Giudecca, the Zattere or Giardini areas are all great locations (make sure to check availability). You’ll be spoilt for choice when it comes to candlelit dinners. The famous Hotel Danieli with its breathtaking view (dinner is served indoors because the terrace is closed in winter), the elegant Do Leoni, the Antico Pignolo, Da Mario alla Fava, the Anice Stellato, the Paradiso Perduto and the Antico Martini are just a few. Other options include La Piscina della Calcina, A Beccafico, Linea d’Ombra, the Bistrot de Venise (see page 34). Those in search of a more laid-back atmosphere should head to the Fondamenta
della Misericordia district (a great place for aperitivi), while those wishing to really make a night of it can book a table aboard a Galleon (www.jollyroger.it) or even tickets for the Grand Ball at Palazzo Contarini della Porta di Ferro (a truly sumptuous venue where wearing a mask is compulsory). Themed concerts are also appealing, but this time, the musicians wear period costumes, so there’s no need to wear a disguise. The Musici Veneziani perform at the Scuola di San Teodoro, while the Musica in Maschera group stages a show at the Scuola Grande dei Carmini. However, there’s another alternative! Don’t organize anything - simply gaze into your significant other’s eyes, with Venice as the backdrop…
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CONCERT VENUES & THEATRES Teatro Goldoni The Goldoni Theater is the oldest theater in Venice and the fourth most ancient in the city. Built by the Vendramin family in 1622, it was originally named after them. Its high point came in 1752, when it engaged Carlo Goldoni, the city’s most important dramatist at that time. It was renovated several times, first in 1818 and subsequently in 1933 and in 1979. In addition to Verona’s Teatro Nuovo and Padua’s Teatro Verdi, the Goldoni Theater is now managed by the Teatro Stabile di Veneto. www. teatrostabiledelveneto.it. San Marco, 4650/B. T: 041 2402011. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto stop). Map E4
Teatro La Fenice
UNMISSABLE Located in the Sestiere San Marco, La Fenice Opera House is the one of the most legendary opera houses in Italy. Twice destroyed by fire (1836 and 1996) and twice restored to its former splendour, for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, symphonies and the International Festival of Contemporary Music. In the 19th century, it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Gioachino Rossini, Vincenzo Bellini, Gaetano Donizetti and Giuseppe Verdi, while in the 20th century it became a focal point for contemporary productions, featuring world premieres by Igor Stravinskij, Benjamin Britten, Sergej Prokofiev, Luigi Nono and Bruno Maderna and recently also operas by Mauricio Kagel, Adriano Guarnieri, Luca Mosca and Claudio Ambrosini. www.teatrolafenice.it. The theater is generally open daily for tours from 9.30am to 6pm. Full ticket: 10 €. The ticket price includes an audio guide, available in 5 languages (Italian, English, German, French and Spanish). San Marco, 4387 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 786672. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5
Currently celebrating its 94th edition, the rich events calendar of this year’s Opera Festival featured 46 performances with 5 operas staged on a rotational basis: ‘Carmen’ by Georges Bizet, ‘Aida’, ‘La Traviata’, ‘Il Trovatore’ by Giuseppe Verdi and ‘Turandot’ by Giacomo Puccini. (www.mostracallas.it). www.arena. it. Verona, piazza Bra 1. T: 045 8005151, 5873. Off Map One of Vicenza’s artistic marvels (located 75 km from Venice), the Teatro Olimpico was designed by Renaissance architect Andrea Palladio in 1580. It is the first and oldest covered ‘Teatro Stabile’ in the world. Its interior simulates the outdoor setting of classical theatres, with a monumental rectangular proscenium, built to host its inaugural performance in 1585. Seven wooden perspective scenes depicting the streets of Thebes depart from here in a sunburst pattern. Included in UNESCO’s list of World Heritage Sites in 1994, it continues to host performances and concerts. www.teatrolimpicovicenza.it. Vicenza, piazza Matteotti, 11. T: 0444 222800. Off Map
WELLNESS Boscolo Venezia Elegance, style and design blend to create a regenerating oasis, the ideal place for a oneof-a-kind pampering experience offering a rich program of wellness and body treatments. c/o Boscolo Venezia. Cannaregio, 3500 (Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto - Calle Larga Piave). T: 041 2208111. Vaporetto line 4.1 and 5.1 (Sant’Alvise stop). Map E2
Centro Benessere Casanova
GAMBLING & CASINOS Casinò di Venezia
San Clemente Palace Kempinski
VENETO HOT VENUES Arena di Verona The best-preserved Roman amphitheater in the world and the best known in Italy after Rome’s Colosseum, the Arena, the city’s legendary open-air opera house, is located in Verona’s historic centre (115 km from Venice). Each summer, since 1913, it has hosted a famous opera festival featuring must-see performances and internationally renowned stars.
www.teatrolafenice.it
Teatro Olimpico Vicenza
An intimate, relaxing location set in the gardens where Casanova was known to court his lovers. The Center offers a wide range of treatments and massages with a particular emphasis on facials and body treatments. c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. www.belmond.com. Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801. Vaporetto line 4.1 (Zitelle stop). Map F4
Inaugurated in 1638, this is the world's oldest gaming house and its charm has remained unaltered over the years. A perfect example of renaissance style stately home, the dwelling place of the doges and Richard Wagner’s last residence, Ca’ Vendramin Calergi is one of the most elegant buildings overlooking Venice’s major waterway, the Grand Canal. Today the rooms for elegant French games and American gaming tables are given over to the best professionals, whilst over 600 slot machines provide a more informal way of having fun. For venues, opening times, tickets: www.casinovenezia. it. Ca’ Vendramin Calergi - Cannaregio, 2040. T. 041 5297111. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marcuola stop). • Ca' Noghera - Italy’s first American-style casino, opened in 1999, it offers over 5,000 square meters of entertainment, including a new poker room for Texas hold’em Poker tournaments. Via Paliaga 4/8 Tessera (5 minutes from the Marco Polo Airport). Map E2
LA FENICE OPERA HOUSE
Here you can experience the Herb Massage Therapy service, a new approach to healing: an intimate and authentic journey based on the restorative powers of herb plants and the sensuous scents of Venice. The San Clemente Palace Kempinski offers a variety of massages - relaxing, Swedish and deep tissue - combining essential oils of lavender, rosemary and sage. Teas and coffee made with Venetian herbs and spices are complimentary. c/o San Clemente Palace Kempinski. www.kempinski.com. Isola di San Clemente, 1. T: 041 4750111. Hotel’s complimentary boat from piazza San Marco. Off Map
JW Marriott Venice Housed in a simple and elegant building, the Spa – the largest in Venice with its 1,750 m² – opens like a shell onto the water and has eight treatment cabins with a view of the lagoon and a marvellous suite. c/o JW Marriott Venice. www.jwvenice.com. Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco. T: 041 8521300. Private boat from piazza San Marco c/o moletto JW Marriott every 30 minutes. Off Map
Eforea Spa The Spa offers five treatment rooms but also a sauna, a Turkish bath, a Jacuzzi and a relaxation area. Make sure to visit its panoramic swimming pool (reserved for hotel guests only). c/o Hilton Molino Stucky. molinostuckyhilton.it. Giudecca, 810. T: 041 2723414. Vaporetto line 4.1 (Giudecca stop). Map G6
■ OPERA 1, 5 February TANNHÄUSER Music by: Richard Wagner Omer Meir Wellber, conductor Calixto Bieito, director Claudio Marino Moretti, chorus master 10, 12, 18, 21, 23 February (Teatro Malibran) GINA Music by: Francesco Cilea Francesco Lanzillotta, conductor Bepi Morassi, director Claudio Marino Moretti, chorus master 16, 17, 19, 22, 24, 25, 26, 28 February and 1, 2 March LA BOHÈME Music by: Giacomo Puccini Stefano Ranzani, conductor Francesco Micheli, director Edoardo Sanchi, sets Silvia Aymonino, costumes Claudio Marino Moretti, chorus master ■ CONCERTS 3, 4 February OMER MEIR WELLBER CONCERT Music by: Hannes Kerschbaumer, Ernest Bloch, Robert Schumann Omer Meir Wellber, conductor Jan Vogler, cello 21, 23 February LA FENICE CHOIR CONCERT Music by: Peteris Vasks, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart Claudio Marino Moretti, conductor ■ CHAMBER MUSIC 11 February (Sale Apollinee) MUSIKÀMERA – LYSKAMM QUARTET Music by: Béla Bartók, Maurice Ravel Cecilia Ziano, Clara Franziska Schötensack, violin Francesca Piccioni, viola Giorgio Casati, cello 14 February (Sale Apollinee) MUSIKÀMERA – TRIO DI PARMA Music by: Ludwig van Beethoven Alberto Miodini, Ivan Rabaglia, violin Enrico Bronzi, cello w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 53
OUT OF TOWN Veneto, all the allure of the region
Cortina d'Ampezzo
Several charming destinations, a perfect way to spend a relaxing day while having fun. By Simona P.K. Daviddii
CORTINA D'AMPEZZO Don’t miss the opportunity of a weekend getaway at one of Italy’s most exclusive resorts, a charming town exclusively positioned in the heart of the breathtaking Dolomites. A symbol of style, fashion and the Italian way of life, Cortina is the spectacular scenery and full range of alpine sports and outdoor activities offered by this bustling mountain town, attract nature lovers and sports enthusiasts during all seasons. First rate skiing, a lively après-ski scene, exclusive shopping and a great choice of events and entertainment, confirms Cortina’s position as a world-class winter destination. Winter offers an array of outdoor activities including excursions on snowcats and sleighs, nighttime descents from mountain refuges, romantic helitours, ice driving, snowkiting and horse-drawn sleigh rides… to enjoy the magic of the Dolomites from dawn to dusk. cortina.dolomiti.org - www.dolomitiskirock.com
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VERONA
with its beautiful Gothic portal and famous balcony, while strolling through the streets of the ancient city, amidst squares, porticoes, aristocratic palazzi, medieval towers, churches and courts. Romeo’s house, with its imposing crenellated walls, is located just a little further on. The Adige river is located just steps away, and a sunset stroll along its shores and over its historical bridges allows visitors to absorb some of Verona’s most romantic, scenic views – the perfect place to fall in love. www.tourism.verona.it DISTANCE FROM VENICE: 115 km
Located just over a hundred kilometers from Venice, Verona captivates visitors with a stunning medieval historical center, encircling the Roman Arena – the ultimate stage for musical events in summer. Although the Arena attracts music lovers/aficionados from all over the world, the haunts of Romeo and Juliet are no less popular. Above all, Verona is known as the city of love. It is the famous setting of Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet, but it is also a vibrant town, boasting an intense cultural life. You are likely to stumble upon Juliet’s house
Cortina d'Ampezzo
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Marostica ?
LUGANO MENDRISIO
Vicenza BERGAMO BRESCIA Verona
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NOVARA
MILANO Mantua
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Abano Montegrotto ?
Padua
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Palmanova
? ? Noventa di Piave
?Venice
TRIESTE
? Chioggia
ALESSANDRIA TORINO
Treviso
FERRARA PIACENZA GENOVA
BOLOGNA
RIMINI
MAR LIGURE VENTIMIGLIA
MAR ADRIATICO
PISA
LIVORNO
FIRENZE ANCONA
CENTURIES OF HISTORY On the previous page, a breathtaking view of Cortina d'Ampezzo, in the heart of the Dolomites. On the right, a corner of Verona with the Arena on the right. Below, Villa Pisani in Stra, one of the most famous Veneto Villas and, at the bottom, Treviso.
VILLAS OF BRENTA The magnificent Brenta Riviera, crossed by the Brenta River and its canals, occupies most of the stretch of land that runs from Padua to Venice. Over the centuries, sumptuous villas, set in lush, beautifully tended gardens, were built on the banks of different waterways. There are approximately thirty villas, and the best way to admire them is from the water, embarking either in Padua or Venice for a pleasant day cruise, perhaps on board a ‘burchiello’, a reproduction of the ancient 18th century craft used by Venetian noblemen. Among the gems that embellish the shores, the monumental Villa Pisani in Stra, is a must see. Palladio also left his mark on Brenta: near Mira, you will find the 16th century Villa Foscari also known as la Malcontenta. In Mira, make sure to visit the 16th century Villa Contarini dei Leoni and in its vicinity Villa Widman, a spectacular 18th century complex. The last noteworthy aristocratic dwelling is Villa Sagredo in Vignovo. It was built on the remains of a medieval castle and is still inhabited, some say, by the ghost of Giovanni Sagredo, a disciple and friend of Galileo Galilei. www.rivieradelbrentaturismo.com
Verona
Villa Pisani, Stra
TREVISO Lying at the heart of the city is piazza dei Signori, home to Palazzo dei Trecento and the elegant Loggia Dei Cavalieri. Its two rivers, the Sile and the Cagnan, meander gently amidst its streets adding a unique touch of charm to its historic centre encircled by the old town walls. Its colonnaded houses with their frescoed facades overlooking the Buranelli canal and the Isola della Pescheria tell of Treviso’s close relationship with its waters. The artistic treasures housed in the Duomo and in the museum hub of Santa Caterina dei Servi di Mari are particularly noteworthy and include works by Bellini, Lotto, Titian and Bassano. Art lovers should make a point of visiting Casa dei Carraresi which hosts prestigious international exhibitions. A city with a beguiling charm all of its own brimming over with picturesque osterie and small cafes overlooking its squares. DISTANCE FROM VENICE: 30 km
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OUT OF TOWN | ABANO-MONTEGROTTO
Euganei Hills
A unique blend of nature, art and wellness Set against the green hills of the Euganei Hills and located approximately 60 kilometres from Venice, the magnificent Villa Barbarigo, one of the most beautiful Veneto Villas in the area, is worth taking a trip out of town.
At Villa Barbarigo, in the province of Padua, you can admire the authentic Italian Baroque Garden of Valsanzibio. Over the years, it has gained international recognition. In addition being published in leading art and botany books, it was named the most beautiful garden in Italy in 2003 and one of the most beautiful in Europe in 2007. In 2004, it was used as the setting for the Merchant of Venice, a romantic film starring Al Pacino. In 2013, ‘QVC’, an American television network, chose it for a program that was aired live and, in 2016 ‘Arte’, the European Culture Channel, dedicated an installment of the program ‘Jardins d’ici et d’ailleurs’ to it, selecting it from among twenty of Europe’s most important historical gardens. Each year, the garden is a highly sought-after destination for international tourists.
THE MAJESTIC PARK, THE STAR OF THE SHOW The villa, which was used as a residence prior to the design of its monumental garden, complements the majestic park. In fact, it is the only Veneto Villa whose park is the main feature. The garden was built during the second half of the 17th century by Venetian nobleman Zuane Francesco Barbarigo, with the help of his sons, Antonio and Gregorio.
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It was the latter – a cardinal, the Archbishop of Padua and a future saint – who inspired the religious symbolism of the project designed by leading Vatican architect and fountain expert Luigi Bernini, brother of the famous sculptor Gianlorenzo. Cardinal Barbarigo wanted the garden of Valsanzibio to symbolize the path of perfection that leads man from Error to Truth, from Ignorance to Revelation. The Pavilion or Portal of Diana was not the only main access route via water to the Barbarigo estate in the 12th and 13th centuries. This superb, imposing gateway represented the beginning of the Road to Salvation, ending in the open space that houses the Fountain of the Mushroom, also known as the Fountain of Ecstasy.
A SYMBOLIC ITINERARY This magnificent Baroque garden has 70 statues, mostly by Marengo, sculpted in Istrian stone. There are also other minor sculptures that blend harmoniously with the architecture, streams, waterfalls, fountains, water features and fish pools that are scattered amidst numerous trees and shrubs, spread over more than 10 hectares of land. Additionally, within the complex itself, important highlights along the Road to Salvation include the Bosso maze, the symbolic Cave of the Hermit, Rabbit Island and the Monument to Time. Until the 19th century,
WELCOME TO THE COLLI EUGANEI Known as the ‘Pearl of the Euganei Hills’, Villa Barbarigo with its monumental garden is located in an area steeped in nature and history, the ideal destination for art lovers and nature enthusiasts. Thanks to the thermal waters of Abano and Montegrotto Terme, the largest spa hub in Europe, the area is a sought-after destination for those in search of relaxing, wellness retreats
OUT OF TOWN Advertorial
Garden of Villa Barbarigo
visitors could access the Portal of Diana – socalled because of the goddess of hunting who stands atop it – via water from Venice. Today, Battaglia can still be reached by boat. In those days, however, initiates had to cross the Valley of Sant’Eusebio, now known as Valsanzibio (from which the garden takes its name) to reach the landing stage in front of the garden.
AN AUTHENTIC HISTORICAL GARDEN Built between 1665 and 1696, the garden of Valsanzibio is an extraordinary example of a symbolic garden. This magnificent garden boasts a number of fully operative water features and is currently one of the largest, best-kept Baroque gardens in the world. Credit for the preservation of this beautifully tended
garden is owed to the loving care bestowed upon it by the ‘Barbarigo Noblemen’ during the 17th and 18th centuries, the noble Michiel family and the Counts of Martinengo during the 19th century and the Counts of Donà delle Rose during the early 20th century. The villa and it gardens have been the property of the Counts of Pizzoni-Ardemani since 1929. Owners of the estate for three generations, the PizzoniArdemani family not only repaired the damage caused by military occupation and the forced abandonment of the villa during World War II, but also recently renovated all of the garden’s 33 water features, damaged by eighty years of gradual ground-water depletion. www.valsanzibiogiardino.it info@valsanzibiogiardino.it
The mud used by the spas of the hotels in Abano and Montegrotto Terme, affiliated with the AQUAEHOTELS Consortium, is identified by the ‘Fango Eutrofico Eudermico Euganeo ( “F.E.E.E.”) trademark and is quality certified. The production process – which guarantees specific characteristic and scientifically proven therapeutic properties – makes it unique worldwide. The salt-bromine-iodine hyper-thermal water which gushes from the depths of the sub-soil in Abano and Montegrotto Terme at a temperature of 80°C, is contained in special vats known as ‘fangaie’. When this water comes into contact with the natural clay enriched with micro-algae spores, a process involving the production of powerful biological active principles comes into play, serving not only as a cure for muscle and back problems but also as a therapy to combat skin-ageing. To try a F.E.E.E. mud treat visit the www.aquaehotels.it website.
Portal of Diana, Villa Barbarigo
WATER FIRST AND FOREMOST ! For the first time, in the exclusive “Venetian Thermal Water” line, thermal spring water is combined with two anti-ageing properties: hyaluronic acid which helps to restore skin elasticity, and natural antioxidants, including Goji and Cassia Alato Leaf extracts, which protect the skin from the effects of ageing. This line is a result of the combination of thermal water drawn from four springs in the Veneto region, mixed to obtain different concentrations based on their specific salinity: water from the Primavera Source of the Palatini-based ‘Terme di Salzano’ (in which bicarbonate, calcium and magnesium are dissolved); the waters of ‘Terme di Bibione’ (originating from deep underground springs); the low mineral content water from the ‘Terme dei Colli Asolani’ in Crespano (home to the spring named for Empress Sissi ); and finally, the water of the ‘Terme Euganee’ (which flows through the municipalities of Abano, Montegrotto, Battaglia, Teolo and Galzignano at a temperature of 87°C). ‘Venetian Thermal Water’ can be purchased online at www.aquaehotels.it or from the best hotels and sales points in the area. Ask your concierge.
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ESSENTIALS
Venice, the Floating City Some information and invaluable tips to experience the best that this magical city on water has to offer. By Simona P. K. Daviddi Italians (at least many of them), may already know that Venice… actually floats! Unlike Amsterdam or Saint Petersburg, it is not just furrowed by canals, bordered by roads and pavements. In Venice, canals are the only available communication route, bearing in mind that part of the city extends over a handful of beautiful islands that are scattered across the Lagoon. For this reason, the lagoon city can only be crossed on foot or by boat. Cars, motorbikes, bicycles and even roller skates are strictly forbidden. But this is not all. At times Venice may find itself... under water! The acqua alta phenomenon – the result of heavy rainfall and high tides - can cause the water level to rise by as much as a meter, forcing everyone to walk on raised plank walkways, or don rain boots (many shops, including tobacconists, sell disposable 58 W H E R E V E N I C E I F E B R UA R Y 2017
ones) in order to cross the city’s flooded calli, campielli and salizade. Calli, campielli and salizade are Venetian words used to identify streets, squares and alleys while sestieri is the local word indicating the six districts the city is divided into: San Marco, Dorsoduro, Cannaregio, Santa Croce, San Polo and Castello. This division dates back to the 12th century and also includes areas such as La Giudecca, the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore (San Marco) and the Island of San Michele, home to the city’s cemetery (Castello). Street numbers in each sestiere start from 1 and often reach four figures, for example, one of the last numbers of the sestiere of Castello is 7,000. You need to learn them if you want to find your way through the spectacular, maze-like historic centre.
Venice also has its own network of public... and private transportation: its vaporetti, real waterbuses, are the most popular craft used by locals, which is why they are often very crowded during peak hours. These enginepowered water taxis are able to whiz across the lagoon in a heartbeat, but for those who prefer a unique, incredibly romantic experience, the famous, distinctive gondola is an absolute must. This elegant, black, one-oared rowing boat drifts gently across the water, while its gondolier sings an entire repertoire of traditional Venetian folk songs. It goes without saying that the waters of the canals are not suitable for swimming, and their banks are often slippery. Be careful not to be so focused on your selfie stick that you walk into a canal because you might be in for some © PAOLA DALLA VALENTINA rather unpleasant surprises!
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Emergency POLICE T: 113 AMBULANCE T: 118 FIRE BRIGADE T: 115 TRAFFIC POLICE T: 041 2747070 LOST AND FOUND ON VAPORETTI T: 041 2722179 24-HOUR PHARMACY: check the display at
all pharmacies.
Airports INTERNATIONAL MARCO POLO DI TESSERA AIRPORT (VCE) - Venice’s Marco Polo Airport offers easy access to numerous destinations located in the Veneto region and in Northern Italy, the Canova di Treviso Airport (in Sant’Angelo) and main railway routes. The Marco Polo Airport is situated at a distance of 13 km from Venice (www.veniceairport.it). Trasportation from the Marco Polo Airport to the historic centre of Venice (and vice-versa): • Taxis (15 min. to Piazzale Roma, approximately €40); • water taxis (fast, private motorboats, approximately €80 ). This service is operative 24/24h (Consorzio Motoscafi Venezia www.motoscafivenezia.it. T: 041 5222303). • ATVO shuttle bus (20 min. to Piazzale Roma, €3, luggage included); • ACTV bus no. 5 (30 min. to Piazzale Roma with intermediate stops, €1, luggage excluded); • Alilaguna motorboats (a private service that uses ACTV’s network of docking stations with intermediate stops at strategic points throughout the city. Fares range from 8 to 27 euros). www. alilaguna.it. T: 041 2401701.
Trains
“SESTIERI”, THE DISTRICTS OF VENICE
FERROVIE DELLO STATO - Trenitalia Railway
Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com. Venice’s Railway Station (Santa Lucia) can be accessed from all main European and Italian cities. The Railway Station overlooks the lagoon and is located just steps from the stops of Venice’s main public transportation lines. E.g.: to reach St. Mark’s Square by vaporetto, take line 1 or 2. Estimated journey time from main Italian cities via high-speed trains, including Frecciarossa, Frecciabianca, Frecciargento, Italo, Thello, Eurocity:
Tourist Information
Santa Croce
Isola di San Michele
Cannaregio
San Polo Dorsoduro
Castello
San Marco
Giudecca
Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore
APT - Azienda di promozione Turistica Città
Metropolitana di Venezia (eng.turismovenezia. it/): Palazzetto Carmagnani, San Marco 2637. T: 041 5298711. VENEZIA UNICA - The official tourism website
of the City of Venice (www.veneziaunica.it)
Tourist Card VENEZIA UNICA CITY PASS is an all-in-one pass
that offers unlimited use of public transportation, admission to tourist attractions and cultural events in the city, plus a number of other useful services. You can purchase your card online and customize your Venezia Unica City Pass to suit your individual travel needs (www.veneziaunica.it/en) exchange vouchers. Open daily 9am-4pm. T: 392 6786628.
Cannaregio, like Castello, is the largest and most densely populated district of Venice. Its name probably derives from the expanse of reeds found in the swamps on which it was built. Castello takes its name from the castle of which traces still remain today. It extends around the Arsenale and includes the Gardens of the Biennale and the Riva degli Schiavoni. Dorsoduro is named after the compact sand dunes found in this area. It overlooks both the Grand Canal and the Giudecca Canal, along which the long promenade known as the Fondamenta delle Zattere stretches.
San Marco takes its name from the Basilica. This is the city’s main sestiere because it houses the palaces that once constituted the government of Venice until its fall. San Polo, which takes its name from the church of San Polo, is the geographic centre of Venice. It stretches from the highest part of the Rialto Bridge and is the place where the Rialto fish and vegetable market is held. Santa Croce takes its name from the ancient church of the same name which unfortunately was demolished under Napoleon’s rule. It includes the Stazione Marittima and the piazzale Roma terminal, a junction for train and road transport (buses, cars) and lagoon traffic (ferries, vaporetti or water buses).
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ESSENTIALS GETTING AROUND VENICE
Because it is a relatively small, compact city (a 45-minute walk from North to South) whose main points of interest are situated just a short distance from each other, visiting Venice on foot is the ideal solution.
Vaporetti - An efficient network of water bus routes covers the entire city and includes transportation to the islands.The service is active 24/24h but runs less frequently between 9.30pm and 6am. Landing stages are located at central points around the city (including Piazzale Roma, Rialto, Piazza San Marco…) . Tickets - Although paper tickets are available at main embarkation points and from authorized resellers displaying the ACTV logo, electronic tickets can also be pre-purchased online. ACTV. Piazzale Roma. T: 041 2424. www actv.it. There are 6 different types of tickets, ranging from hourly tickets (€7.50 for a 75’ regular route) to a weekly pass (€60) for unlimited travel on almost all lines. TIP The boat trip from one bank of the Grand Canal to the other costs 50 cents (via ferry).You can pre-purchase reduced-price tickets from Venice Connected: www.veniceconnected.com. IMOB smart cards are available at all ACTV ticket offices. Although they allow you to save on official rates, they are only recommended for long-term visits. Gondolas - These traditional craft are among the best-known tourist attraction for those wishing to experience a view of Venice that is anything but pedestrian. They are used almost exclusively by
tourists (and Venetians on their wedding days). TIP Before embarking, we suggest that you check official rates (approximately €80 for 45 minutes and €100 after 7pm). Agree on a price, time limit and singing in advance to avoid unexpected surcharges. Associazione dei Gondolieri T. 041 5285075. www. gondolavenezia.it Traghetti (Ferries) - ‘Traghetti’ are gondolas that cross the Grand Canal in 8 points. ‘Traghetti’ rides cost just €2 for non-residents (for holders of City Pass Venezia Unica or ACTV passes, rides cost 0.70) and operate almost non-stop. Four ferry services operate in Venice. Taxi - Water taxis with a cabin (private water taxis) are available for hire from 16 landing stages,
including Lido Aeroporto Marco Polo, piazzale Roma, Ferrovia, Rialto and San Marco, or from your hotel. TIP Although private water taxis can be costly, they are the fastest and most practical means of getting around Venice. Ask your concierge. Car - The city can be accessed from the mainland by car, thanks to an elevated section (a 4km bridge, the longest in Italy, also known as the ‘Translagunare’), with limited parking options at garages in Piazzale Roma or on the Island of Tronchetto. Prices for 24-hour parking cost approximately €30 euro. TIP It’s advisable to travel to Mestre by car (24-hour parking costs approximately €15 euro) and then continue on to Venice by public transport.
PHOTOS © SVIDA_WHEREITALIA
Gondolas, a tourist’s dream!
A hallmark symbol of Venice, who has never dreamt of riding on one of these marvels of craftsmanship, whose charms have withstood the test of time? The components (approximately 280) of these extraordinary craft still bear their almost fairytale-like names of the past: ‘sankòni’, ‘fiùboni’, ‘solarai’ and ‘maistre’... To name but a few.
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Tradition has it that each gondolier has his own gondola, custommade according to his weight and height. Among the most ancient boatyards (or 'squeri'), the most remarkable is perhaps that of Domenico Tramontin and Sons. Established in 1884, it was the supplier to the House of Savoy, the Prefecture and the Commune of Venice (Dorsoduro, 1542. www.tramontingondole.it). An interesting feature that you are bound to notice on a gondolier’s uniform is the logo. Its most recent version was created by the Style Department of Duca d’Aosta, a shop established in 1902 in the Rialto neighbourhood by Emilio Ceccato. The logo features St. Mark as the Winged Lion, holding an open book, a symbol of peace and strength, framed by two 'ferri' – the traditional iron gondola prow ornaments (also known in Venetian as 'fero da próva' or 'dolfin'). Bringing one home as a keepsake is neither easy (nor cheap!), but you can avoid this by purchasing a souvenir created ad hoc. Where? At Emilio Ceccato’s clothing and accessory store, the official supplier and technical sponsor of the Associazione Gondolieri di Venezia (The Gondolier’s Association of Venice) in San Polo 16/17 (T: 041 5222700) and in San Marco, 257 (T: 041 8478885). www.emilioceccato.com
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THE LIDO OF VENICE
Although the Lido is Venice’s beach, it is also much more. An island, a town with its own history and a nature reserve, it is also a jet-setters’ paradise, with luxury hotels and exclusive villas. In September, it becomes the world capital of cinema.
The Lido (meaning beach in Italian) is a separate island from Venice. Measuring less than 200 metres in depth in certain areas, it is a 12km stretch of sand, strategically positioned between the Lagoon and the open sea, only connected to the city and dry land by ‘vaporetti’ or ferry boats. The clear difference between the Lido and Venice is that the Lido has real streets, which means you get around by car. In mid-November, Rolls Royce’s, Cadillac’s and Bentleys abound at the entrances of grand hotels. However, today, it is considered chicer to access the Lido by boat or explore it on foot or by bicycle.
WHAT TO SEE - The nature reserve and wild sand dunes of the Alberoni, recognized and protected by the WWF since 1997, are the perfect place for a quick swim. The area comprises 160 hectares of land, including two kilometers of golden sand dunes that extend from Murazzi to the Alberoni dam, and a beautiful pine forest. For a natural beach experience, the Lido also offers several free beaches, like the sandy dunes of San Nicolò, the rocky outcrops of the Murazzi, or the beach known to the Venetians as ‘Bluemoon”.
The Excelsior Venice Hotel
Among other attractions, the area is home to an exclusive golf club set against a stunning backdrop of umbrella pines and poplars. Founder of the famous automotive house and an avid fan of Venice, Henry Ford commissioned the course in 1926, when he discovered to his disappointment that there was nowhere else where he could play golf, a sport widely practiced in America, but not in Italy at that time.
WHERE TO GO - Moving to the other end of the island, we find Malamocco, a small, ancient town that offers visitors a mini experience of Venice with its canals, ‘campielli’ and ancient buildings. Also dating back to olden times, in a more northerly direction, is the settlement of San Nicolò, featuring a Benedictine complex built in the 11th century. WHAT TO DO - Don’t miss a walk, or even better, a bike ride along the Murazzi, the remains of ancient fortresses which are now used as a race track. Bicycles are provided by several of the island’s hotels. If you happen to be there at the right time, you will be treated to a breathtaking sunset. What’s more, you’ll also get a glimpse of a wilder, more untamed side of Venice, amidst the boats and fishermen searching for clams. One of the island’s rituals, that you should not miss is having a ‘spritz’: the Venetian cocktail or aperitivo par excellence. You won’t have any trouble finding one at any bar on the Gran Viale, the Lido’s promenade. If you’re not pressed for time you can catch a boat from the Gran Viale to Pellestrina (where you can eat fabulously fresh fish, or a sandwich with fried sardines), or travel to Chioggia, a second, smaller Venice that abounds in fabulous small restaurants.
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People Mover Venezia
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Palazzo Labia Parco Savorgnan Salone del Tiepolo
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Ponte dei Tre Archi
CAMPIELLO DEL SCARLATTO
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Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo
Sant'Alvise
CAMPO S A N T ' A LV I S E
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Alvis
SA
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Santa Maria delle Penitenti
di S
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Monastero "Villa Groggia" Carmelitane Scalze
ROLAMO SACCA SAN GI
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Parco
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Venice Map
C
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A
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10
AEROPORTO MARCO POLO
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Museo Di Torcello Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta Chiesa di Santa Fosca
100 m
ROSINA DELLA STRADA
ISOLA DEI LAGHI
FONDAMENTA
ISOLA
CATERINA SANTA
SANTA
DI
DI CATERINA
MAZZORBETTO
FONDAMENTA
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NT
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LL
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GO
BB
I
Chiesa di San Martino
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Chiesa di Santa Caterina
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SC
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M
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O
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SA
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10 VIA
CIMITERO DEL STRADA
RI
H
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G
F
100 m
TORCELLO
BURANO
ISOLA CARBONERA
SAN FRANCESCO DEL DESERTO Convento di San Francesco del Deserto
Parco San Giuliano
ISOLA DI TESSERA
ISOLA SAN GIACOMO IN PALUDE
MURANO 10
Chiesa di San Michele in Isola
TREPORTI
1
ISOLA CAMPALTO STRADA
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AN
GE
LO
ZA
NI
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L C O
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LE
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ND
ND
AM
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SA
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BA
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ST
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SA
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SA
US
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STRADA
BR
MA
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Chiesa S. Erasmo
NZ O
FO
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RO
CAMPO S A N D O N AT O
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TA
CALL
M
E
N
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Ponte Lungo
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DA
FO
N
D
A
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MIST
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ER
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NI
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AM
R
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CALLE
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I
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Faro di Murano
LE
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LE
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N
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LI
C
TI
TO
TA
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O
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CALLE
AN
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NA
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ORT
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LEO
A SAN GIOV
LI RO G
CALLE
B AT T U T I
IET LE D OLO
CALLE
LLE
TONI E N TA A N
CAL
LLEONI
Chiesa di San Pietro Martire
FOSC
O E UG
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TI
FO
N
D
AM
EN
TA
D
CALLE
FONDAM
CO
CALLE
CALL
CA
CIPRIANO SAN CALLE
CAVALLINO TREPORTI
NTI
RE
Chiesa dei Santi Maria e Donato
CAMPO SAN BERNARDO
BAROVIER CALLE
VIVARINI
A.
SACCA
LIO
LL
L'A CA
E C E
CA
DEL LE
SALVADOR SAN
CAL
FO
TERA’
Santa Maria degli Angeli
PARMENSE
LL
RADI
CA
NO
MURANO
TA’
FO
IA
ER
PORTO MARGHERA
CAMPO DE LE CASE NOVE
A
B
CRISTOFORO
CALLE DEL CIMITERO
LI
GIANMARIA
VENINI
PAOLO
FONDAMENTA
RIO
CALLE
LA
NICOLO’ CALLE SAN
EL
LORENZO
ORTES CALLE
D
FONDAMENTA
Cimitero Nuovo
LE
M
A
A
NV
CA
TO
COLORATA
VI
ISOLA SAN GIORGIO
VIA
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CANOSSIANE
LA CALLE
DE
LARGA
LA DE
a
Apostoli Santi
DEI
dei Rio
DE LA PIETA’
DE L MAGAZEN
CALLE
CALLE
CORDONI DEI STELLA
CALLE CALLE
STELLA
SQUERO
CALLE
DEL CALLE
TESTA DE
LA
Rio
Dei
BANDI
MENDICANTI
FONDAMENTAMendicanti
CALLE
CASTELLO
GIUSTINA
CAPPUCCINE CALLE
SANTA
DEGLI
ORTI
FONDAMENTA
CALLE MASSA C. DE LE MOSCHETE
CALLE
CALLE CAVALLI
MURAZZO
PIETA’
CALLE
DEL TE DEUM
DELLA
CALLE
CALLE
CAPPELLO RAMO
CALLE
CALLE DEL FO CALLE ZORZI
FONDAMENTA DEL CRISTO
MAGNO CALLE
FONDAMENTA
NAVE
VOLTO
LA DE
DEL
FRUTARIOL
C.
PARADISO DEL
DEL
CALLE
C.
CALLE
SANT’ANTONIO
CALLE
BALBI
Nuove Fondamenta delle
GRECI
LA CERTOSA
Vergini
San Francesco di Paola
C.
A
IST
LL
CENETTE
PIETRO CORTELIESINA DA
CALLE
ALDI
EP
O
FO
AM
ND
EN
SA
TA
GI
N
US
PE
San Giuseppe di Castello
CAMPO SAN ISEPO
SALONI
CE
R L C
IB PE GAR
NA
RI
DE
MA
ION
COLONNE
SAN PIETRO DI CASTELLO
QUINTAVALLE CALLE
POLACCA
CALLE
BB
IAN
RE
RI
CO
SA
CALLE
ROSA
SALAMON
SANT'ANNA
SE
C.
GIUSEP
SARES
O E ANC
DOMENICO CALLE SAN
VIALE
CALL
TI
F O N D A M E N TA
CALLE
COPPO
AR
LARGA
MARAFONI
CALLE
FOND. SAN GIOACCHIN
I
SCHIAVONA
M
CALLE
CALLE TERCO
CALLE
N TA R I O D E L L A TA NA
CALLE CORERA
TE
Punta della Dogana
Basilica di San Pietro di Castello
STRETA
CALLE DEI
Canale
de le
SALIZADA
CALLE DE LA PIETA’
Rio de San Gerolamo
CALLE DEL DOSE
CAGNOLETO
PESCARIA
DEL CALLE
DEI
FORNI
L’ARSENAL
DOSE DEL
CALLE
CALLE
LE
DE
CALLE DEL FORNO
FORNO
SAN
AI
RIO
ISEPO
TERÀ
SANT'ANTONIO
VIALE
Japan Pavilion
BB
C. D EL
CAR
XXIV M AGG
I
NO
ERA
CH
LE
INO
TTO LA
GEN
EL
LE
C.
AR
CAL
ZU
LL
MP
CA
O
CA
LL
CA
E
LL
E
O
RA
MA
DI
GR
MO
SQ
UE
RT
GN
A
Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo
Sant'Elena
E
CA
RN
AR
SANT'ELENA
VIALE
SA
LL
N
F.
VI
CA
LL
E
MA
SO
AL
E
N
VI
TT
OR
IO
VI
VE
AL
NE
E
IV
NO
VE
O
M
BR
Aeroporto Nicelli Venezia Lido
Lido S. Nicolo'
SANT’ELENA
E
Scuola Navale Militare "Francesco Morosini"
TO
K IA
CA
LL
E
DE
LL
A
FO
ND
ER
IA
Ò
Rio
CA
E
Teatro Verde
E
LL
LL
E
AN
RO
R
IE
A
TE
CA
ZI
TA
ER
EN
Parco delle Rimembranze
MP
E
CA
G
E
N
LL
LI
CA
OL
DELL'OLIO
FERRANDO
CALLE
DE LE ERBE
NOBILI
LUNGO
STRETTA
DE CALLE
ROTONDA
DEI
GRANDE
CALLE
PONTE
CALLE
FIANCO
SAN GIACOMO
CORTE
AM
E
FONDAMENTA
ACCADEMIA
Lungo
OC
LO
LE
CR
GE
del
TA
Santa Croce
OSPIZIO
CALLE
EN
CROCE
AN
CALLE
AM
DELLA
EL
FONDAMENTA
ND
CALLE
FO
CALLE
CH
Ponte
Redentore O
Santissimo Redentore
MI
JUNGHANS
DE
SAN GI ACOM
CALLE MORE
CALLE ALBERO
E
ERBE
M E N TA
LL
CALLE
FONDA
CA
CAMPO
CALLE
ND
PICCOLO
RIO CROCE
PONTE
PALLADA
SCUOLA
VI
FO
FONDAMENTA
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
RI
IA
V
FEM
PA
SS
'EU
SANT'ELENA
SANT'ELENA
TI
C
NT
SCUOLA
IO
CALLE MONT E PA S U B I O
SO
BO
LI
MAGGIORE
SA
SAN GIORGIO
I
N
E
N
NT
SA
CALLE
FONDAMENTA
VA
O
IO
U I P
G
M
N
IN
SA
C.
TA
RD
TA
LÒ
IA
EN
VIALE PIAVE
Russia Pavilion
G
EN
COSMO
Le Zitelle
Zitelle
Giudecca Palanca AM
CALLE
CO
E
Sant'Eufemia
CONVERTITE
NI
United States Pavilion
AL
AM
CALLE MONTELLO SAN EL ENA
VI
D
RE
FORNACE
SALONI
N
EMB
PALUDO CALLE
ISOLA DI
FO
E IV NOV
TERRÀ
Giardini
S. Giorgio
Spirito Santo
VIAL
ZATTERE
PALUDO CALLE
Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore
CALLE DELA CREA
Spirito Santo
Rio d el Giardini
BO
DEL CALLE
DONZELLA C.
CALLE
BRESSANA
CALLE VERROCCHIO DEL
VENIERA
CALLE
CALLE
SANTA CAMPO
CANNAREGIO
LOVO DEL CALLE
C. DE LA MADONETA
RACHETA LA DE
FELICE
CALLE
I ZZ PO
Dolce
PRIULI
DO
FOORNO
Ca’
GA
DEL
RU
Rio
VELE DE
LE
CALLE
APOSTOLI
CALLE
PISTOR
SANTI
DEL
VERDI
CALLE
SOFIA
RIO TERRÀ
SALIZADA
STAGNERI
C. DEI
GIOVANNI
S.G. GRISOSTOMO SALIZADA
BOMBASEI
APRILE
CALLE
MERCERIA
II
ZULIAN SAN
BALOTE
CALLE
LE DE
PISCINA
CALLE
CORONA DELLA
C.
LEONARDO
LA SACRESTIA
C. CORONA
CALLE RIMPETTO
ALBANESI CALLE DEL
CALLE DE LE RASSE
DE
CATERINA
L’ABAZIA Misericordi
CAMPO
SANTA
della
FOSCARINI
LUNGA
CALLE
CALLE
Canale
MISERICORDIA FOND.
CALLE
ENA
BALD
CALLE
I S ET
C A L L E C ATA PA N
CAMPO DELLA SALUTE
FONDAMENTA
I CASE
DELLE
CALLE
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
NUOVE
DORSODURO SESTIERE FOSCARI CALLE
C.SANT’ANTONIO
ROSA
CONVERTITE
VECCHIO GHETTO
CERERIA
LARGA
CALLE
ETTI,
LA
VECCHIA
CALLE
TI, RÀ
DE
FA R S
ET
CALLE
CORTE
RS FA
RIO T ERÀ
TE
CALLE
DEL
RIELLO
CALLE
CALLE
TREVISAN
CAMIN
RIO
COLOMBINA CALLE
PESARO
QUERIN,
CALLE
CALLE
CALLE
SAN TRAGHETO
FONTEGO
MEGIO
DEL
RIO TERÀ CAZZA
DEL
SALITA
CALLE
C.
STAE
FORNO
SAN
DEL
CA’
LUCIA
C.
CALLE
LARGA
SALIZADA
ROSA
SANTA
CALLE
GRUE
DEL
LE DE
CALLE
CARMINATI
CAMPANIEL
PICCOLO
DEL
REGINA
SALIZADA
LA
CALLE
FONDAMENTA
SIMON
DE CALLE
BOTERI
DEI CALLE
L’ANZOLO
STUA LA
DE
DE
CALLE
CALLE
SECONDO
CRISTO
TERA’
DEL
RIO
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
CALLE
SAN
MEZZO CALLE
DI
L’ARCHIVIO DRIO
FON. DEI TOLENTINI
CALLE
ROCCO SAN
ALBANESI DEI
CALLE
SBIACCA
STRETA
CALLE
CALLE
CALLE
RAGUSEI
LIPOLI
ORBI DEI CALLE
MUNEGHE
LE DE CALLE
GIUSTINIAN
EUFEMIA BEATA
DA PONTE
GARI
EPPE
CALLE
DE
CALLE DELL’ANGELO
DELFINA
GRIMANI
VA
OLO C A L L E G I A N B AT T I S TA T I E P
CALLE
CALLE
NUOVA
DEI PRETI
CALLE
ARS
NALE
FONDAME
IUS VIA G
COLTRERA
DOGE
TA A R SE
LA TANA
CALLE
DEL
RAMO DE
CALLE
CALLE
AMEN
TANA
CALLE FRIZIER
CAMPIELLO TRAGHETTO
FOND
DE LA
C. LOREDANA
RIO TERA’ OGNISANTI
E N TA
La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale
CAMPO
Museo Storico Navale di Venezia
CALLE
SANGIANTOFFETTI
VIDA
CROSERA
EREMITE
LA
CALLE
FONDAMENTA
DAM
DEI
DE
CASTELLO
FONDAMENTA
FON
FONDAMENTA ARSENALOTTI
CALLE
DEI FORNI
Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute
CATECUMENI
RIO
FONDAMENTA
DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO
RIO TERRÀ
Giardino delle Vergini Rio
San Martino
MOROSINA
FONDAMENTA
RI
San Gregorio
CALLE DEL BASTION
La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale
La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese
RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA
CALLE
DI
DEI CORTELLOTTI
PESTRIN
GRITTI CALLE
PIETRO
NANI
DE CALLE
CROSERA
Arsenale di Venezia
Arsenale di Venezia
PIGNATER
SAN
CALLE
L’ANZOLO
PISCINA
DE
RUGA VECCHIA
FOSCARINI
NUOVE
DONA
DE
MARTIN
L’ARCO
CALLE
ONI
C. VOLTO
Moise
DEL TRAGHETTO
MARTIRI
San
CALLE
RIDOTTO
TREDICI
Rio
CALLE
VALLARESSO
CALLE
CALLE
SARTOR
FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN
VENIER
DE
SALIZADA
San Giovanni Battista in Bragora S C H I AV
CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO
C. DEL
ASCENSIONE
DEI PUTI
SEBASTIANO
CELESTIA
CALLE
DEL PIOVAN
LARGA
CALLE
SEBASTIAN
FONDAMENTA
ANTONIN
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
SAN
CALLE DEL PESTRIN
BRAGADIN
CASTELLO CASE
DELLA
CALLE
CALLE
CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI
BASTION
VERONA
TERRÀ
SESTIERE
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA
DE L’OGIO
CALLE
SCUDI
CALLE BOSELLO
LA
MINELLI
PISCINA
NUOVE
SECONDO SAGRADO
CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA
CORTE DEL MORION
SAN SAN
CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO
R I VA D EGLI
S. Zaccaria (Pieta')
Arsenale
BIAGIO
CALLE
FONDAMENTA
CASE
RAMO
CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA
CORTE DELLE GATE CALLE DEI FURLANI
VONI
100 m
SAN
ND
San Francesco della Vigna
FRANCESCO
SANTA GIUSTINA
San Giovanni di Malta
SALIZADA
CALLE DE LA PIETA’
Santa Maria della Pietà SCHIA
CALLE TERAZZERA
San Zaccaria
VIN CALLE DEL
Palazzo
DE
CAVALLETTO
ORSEOLO
FONDAMENTA DEL VIN
DEL
SOTO E CORTE NOVA
C.
Rio Del
FABBRI
FONDAMENTA
CAMPO SAN LORENZO
DEGLI
S. Zaccaria (Danieli)
DEGLI
S. Marco (Vallaresso)
SALUTE
FONDAMENTA
FO
SAN
SALIZADA
CORTE SACCA
San Giorgio dei Greci
CAMPO SAN PROVOLO
DEL
SPECHIERI
SPADARIA
DEI
C.
CALLE
S. SAMUELE
PESTRIN
RIO
CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA
DEGLI
DEI
CALLE
C. DE LE COLONNE
DELL’OROLOGIO
DEL
PISCINA
VERONA
Ca' Giustinian
FONDAMENTA
LAVRANERI
ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
ZON
CALLE DEL MAGAZEN
DE L’OSMARIN FONDAMENTA
C. PIANTON
O
SCHIAVONI RIVA
CALLE
CALLE
MARZARIA
REDIVO
CALLE GOLDONI
CALLE
LA
CALLE
DE
VENIER FONDAMENTA
TRONCHETTO
DEL NOVA ISOLA
FONDAMENTA
ra Scomenze De
MARITTIMO
Canale
PORTO
FONDAMENTA
F. CONDULMER
DIREZIONE
MARITTIMO
CALLE
CALLE SAN LORENZO
CALLE LION
CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA
CALLE
DEI PRETI
GATE
CALLE
DRASI
CERERIA
CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA
San Lorenzo
ZORZI SALIZADA
DE LE
FABBRI
C.
MANDOLA
AVVOCATI
TERÀ
RC
CALLE
LA
DEL CAFETIER
CORTE NOVA
CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO
R I VA
A N M
SALIZADA
PORTO
CALLE
CAMPO SAN LORENZO
SEVERO
DE
LATERANO
SAN
C.
DE LE TOLE
FONDAMENTA GIOVANNI
CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO
BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO
GIUFFA
CASSELERIA
DEI
CALLE DEL FIGHER
SA
MEZO
RUGA
CALLE
PISCOPIA
CARBON
Salvador
CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO
Palazzo Ducale
LO
Rio San Lorenzo
DE CALLE
CORTE NUOVA
San Giovanni Novo
MARCO
CANONICA DE LA
O
MO
FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO
LIO
a
SAN
Palazzo Querini Stampalia
CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA
REMEDIO
SAN
CALLE
RC
FONDAMENTA
SAN
DEL
DIREZIONE
BARBARIA
Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani
BANDE
CORTE FRUTARIOLI
CALLE
LARGA
PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI
Basilica di San Marco MA
SAN
Museo Correr
CALLE ERIZZO
SALIZADA
San
Marittim
Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto
CORTE TREVISAN
CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA
ORBI
DE LE
DEI
CALLE
Rio
LARGA
Santa Maria del Pianto
FORNO
CORTE DEL PRESTRIN
CALLE
DEL
CALLE
BALONI
CAPPELLO BIANCA CALLE
P U N TA S A B B I O N I
NOVE
Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo
CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO
DEL
DE LE ERBE
FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI
CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO
TASCA
CORTE DEL FORNO
C.DEI
CALLE
BEMBO
O MUSSATO CALLE
ZULIAN
CORTE TORRETTA
ZZA
REMER
CALLE
CALLE
CALLE
LIO
San Giuliano
SAN
PIGNOLI
PIA
O DEL
CINQUE
RIO
CALLE
MAGAZZINI
DEI
LUCATELLO
MARZARIA DEI
COCCO
TOSCANA
C.
AI
San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti
Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo
G. GALLINA
CALLE
LICINI
MEZO
C.
PIOMBO
D. PALLE
CAMPO DEL VOLTO
SAN
CORTE
RUBBI
DE
CORTE DELLE ANCORE
Bacino Orseolo
LE VIGNOLE
FONDAMENTA
CORTE NOVA
CALLE GABRIELI
DRIO CALLE LE SCUOLE
CALLE
CASTELLI
CALLE
DE
GRIMANI
CAVALLI
RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO
CORTE CORTESE
CAMPIELLO STELLA
CAMPIELLO WIDMANN
CALLE
SALIZADA
C. LARGA
CORTE
CALLE
CAPITELLO
CORTE GRAGOLINA
GALLO CALLE CAMPO SAN GALLO
San Moisè
ZATTERE
DE LA SACA
CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO
CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO
NOVE
BERLENDIS
VARISCO
Santa Maria dei Miracoli
MIRACOLI
GIAZZO
CAMPO SAN LIO
Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione
CAMPO DE LA FAVA
CALICE
DEL
TAGIAPIERA
BALOTE
GRAGOLINA LE COLONNE DE
STRAZZE TERÀ RIO
CARRO
PRIMO RAMOCONTARINA CORTE
CORTE BAROZZI
CASTELLO
CALLE
CALLE
CALLE
CORNER
Collezione Peggy Guggenheim FOND. VENIER DAI LEON
DEL FORNO
CALLE DEL NAVARO
FONDAMENTA
DEI
CALLE DEL C.MARTINENGO CALLE
GALIAZZO
C. DEL
SALVADOR
MARZARIA
CORTE C.DEL TRAMONTIN
LE
DELLE
SAN
DEL CALLE
CAMPO SAN MOISE’
CHIESA
SALIZADA
SPIRITO SANTO
CALLE
DEI LAVRANERI
San Gerardo
BIAGIO
BOTERI
CALLE
O
CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO
CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN
CALLE
LARGA
RIO
Teatro Malibran
C. DEL
SAN
C.DE
C.
C.
FRUTARIOL
DEL
PISCINA
XXII MARZO
Salute
PONTE
SACCA SAN
DEI
V O LT
CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA
SAN CANZIAN
CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO
SABION
MAGAZEN
CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO
FREZZERIA
MOISE’
SA
FONDAMENTE
LARGA
CAMPO DE LA CARITA’
LE D EL
DEL M ORA
C O RT E B ATA G I A
WIDMANN
ORESI
CALLE
LARGA
CAMPIELLO CONTARINI
SESTIERE
DEI
PARANGON
RUGA
MADONA
Stazione
FABBRICHE
DE LA
FORNO
RAMO
DEL
CALLE
Palazzo Genovese
DELLA
CAPPUZZI
ZATTERE ALLO
LE
CALLE
DOLERA
DEL CALLE
DE PISCINA
LA CHIESA
DRIO
MICHIEL
Palazzo Pisani Gritti
Santa Maria del Giglio
CALLE
CALLE
FONDAMENTA
RAMO
S.Canciano CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA
LUCA SAN CALLE
CALLE
CALLE
X
CORTE DEL
MARZARIA
San Salvador
TEATRO DEL CALLE
LOCANDE
San Fantin
Casa di Marco Polo
FONTEGO
PIO
TEATRO
Palazzo Nervi Scattolin
CALLE ASSASSINI
CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO
VENEZIA
CALLE
CAL
FRUTARIOL
CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO
C. DEL
SALIZZADA
CORTE SAN SALVADOR
CORTE DEL
CAMPO MANIN PATERNIN
MANDOLA
TERÀ
RIO
CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION
Fontego dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto Rialto
Teatro Carlo Goldoni
CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA
SAN CALLE CALLE
Teatro la Fenice
Santa Maria del Giglio
Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda
CAMPO DI SAN VIO
CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE
VENIER
CORTE DEL REMER
BARBA
CAMPIELLO VALMARANA
CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON
CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO
San Giacomo di Rialto
CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO
Fontego CALLE LARGA Dolfin Manin MAZZINI
Rialto (Palazzo Cavalli)
San Luca
TEATRO
CAFETIER
CAOTORTA
CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI
San Maurizio CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO
C.SANT'AGNESE
NANI
AI GESUATI
CALLE
SARTORI
TERÀ
San Giovanni Grisostomo
DE
CALLE
RIELO
SPORCA CALLE PAZIENZE DE LE
LORENZO
FONDAMENTA
C. SAN
SCOAZZERA DE LA
LE PAZIENZE
DEL PISTOR
CALLE
ZATTERE
ZEN
FOND.
RIO
SALIZADA
SOTOPORTEGO
GALIZZI
STURION
DEI
C. DE
RIO TERA’
L' ARZERE
GUARDIANI
DE
TODESCHI
CALLE
CANAL RIO TERA’
C. DEI
CALLE
Santa Maria del Rosario
Zattere
CAMPO DEI GESUITI
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
DEL
ROSSA
nde Canal Gra
FONDAMENTA
RAGUSEI
FONDAMENTA
CROSERA
CALLE
CALLE
TRAGHETTO
CAMPO SAN TROVASO
BONLINI
CATERINA
CALLE
C.
DEL
FONDAMENTA
SANTA
Santi Apostoli
Chiesa Evangelica Luterana
CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA
Palazzo Rava
S.Silvestro
DEL
DEL
CALLE
Santo Stefano
Canal Grande
Giudecca Hilton
Chiesa dei Gesuiti
VOLTI
RAVANO
San Silvestro
CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO
CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA
Palazzo Grimani
CALLE
CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO
BOTEGHE
CAMPO PISANI
CATENE
S.ANDREA
PRIULI
NOVA
PESCARIA
DEL
RUGHETA
CALLE
CAZZIOLA
San Trovaso
OGNISANTI
NOVE
CALLE
CAMPO DELLA
BECARIE
DEL SOL
San Beneto CAMPO SAN BENETO CALLE
LE
CORTE
PONTE
FONDAMENTE
FONDAMENTA
FONDAMENTA
Santa Sofia
STRADA
CAMPO DE LA
CAMPIELLO DEL SANSONI
CAMPIELLO
DEL CALLE
de r an
NARISI FOND.
DE
San Vidal
FOND.
CAMPO DE LE ERBE
STUA
Ca’ D’Oro
Ca na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd e
MUTI
Sant’Aponal
TRAGHETTO
zera
TRAPOLIN
LA
San Felice
CA’
BOTA
CAMPO SAN APONAL
DEL
DIETRO
Abazia della Misericordia
IA
VENDRAMIN
DEL
LA
CARAMPANE
PERDON
CALLE
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
D
CALLE
Rio Nuovo
Bacino
R
CALLE
TABACCHI
Scomen
O
DONZELA
NUOVA
Canale
IC
CALLE
LE
Palazzo Fortuny
CORTE DELL’ALBERO
CROSERA
CAMPO SANTO STEFANO
Sant’Agnese
VAPORETTO
ER
CA'
DE DE
DE
al G
DI SAN MARCO
SAMUELE
FALIER
FONDAMENTA
DEL
IS
DE
CALLE CALLE
CARAMPANE
TERÀ
CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI
Can SESTIERE
S. SALIZADA
Palazzo Loredan
Ponte dell'Accademia
CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ
Gallerie dell'Accademia
LONGO
CALLE
M
FONDAMENTA
LA
CALLE
DE
TA
San Cassiano CAMPO SAN CASSAN
RIO
CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI
Palazzo Querini-Dubois
Sant'Angelo
VECCHIA
CARROZZE
CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL
FOND.
EN
Santa Fosca
TIOZZI
L’AGNELLA
CORTE DEL TEATRO
CAMPO SAN POLO
CA’
LEZZE
LE
San Samuele
CALLE
ZATTERE AL
CONTARINI
dell'Orto
AM
Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale d'Arte Moderna
DEI
DE
SCALETER
CALLE
CORTE
DE
CALLE
S. Samuele
Ca' Rezzonico
BEATE GIULIANA
SACCA
FISOLA
LARGA
D
CALLE
CORTE DEL TIOZZI
C.
DEL
Palazzo Mocenigo
RAMO
Ca' Rezzonico
Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione
CALLE CHIESA
N
S.Stae
San Stae
CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI
DE
C.
Palazzo Giustinian Persico S. Toma' SX
Palazzo Grassi
CALLE BERNARDO
FODAMENTA
DELLA
SAN MICHELE
FONDAMENTA
Madonna
MORI
NA
La Maddalena
TRON
CALLE CA’BONVINCINI
BOLDO
San Tomà
Palazzo Balbi
CAMPO DEI SQUELINI
Giudecca Hilton FONDAMENTO CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO
CALLE
DEI
CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE
L
SAN
CAMPO SAN TOMÀ
CROSERA
San Barnaba
NA
FONDAMENTA
Santa Maria Mater Domini
Palazzo Grioni C.
Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo
CAMPO DEI FRARI
CALLE
L’ASEO
Accademia
DE OGNISANTI
CA
DE
PAPADOPOLI
DE
CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA
LE
ALE
CAMPO SAN STIN
TOMÀ
CAMPO SAN ROCCO
PRETI
CALLE
NIE
DD
MORETTI
MEZO
CAMPO
ZANE CALLE
CALLE DEL MAGAZEN
TINTORETTO
DEI
CAMPO SAN PANTALON
.DA
MA
C.
TOLENTINI
FONDAMENTA
DEI
SAN
CALLE
DEL
TENTOR
DE
CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO
CALLE DELL'OLIO
FON.
TERÀ
Basilica dei Frari
CALLE
CALLE
San Pantalon
FOMO
LA
SAN BOLDO
CALLE
RIO
San Rocco
Muneghete
RENIER
DEL
A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA
Chiesa di Ognissanti
FONDAMENTA
S. Basilio
100 m
C.
CALLE
CALLE
OCHE
LATTE
LACA CALLE DE LA LACA
le
PANTALON
CALLE
CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA
INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON
À D E
Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale
L’ISOLA
OCHE
C.VENZATO
LA
TINTOR
LA
FONDARIA
CIMESIN
de
NUOVO
FO de Servi N
TER
S.Marcuola
DE
DE LA VIDA
San Giacomo dall'Orio
DEL
DE
LA
RAMO
CIMESIN
SAN
BASEGO
RIO
CAMPO DEI CARMINI
Santa Maria dei Carmini
Misericordia
FO
RIO DIETRO TERÀ LA CHIESA
TERA’
RAMO
CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO
CALLE ORSETTI
DE
CALLE
C. CAMPAZZO DE
CALLE
RAMO
Rio
CALLE
Carmini
CALLE DE LA CHIESA
CAMPO SAN BESAGIO
della
Rio
CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA
San Zan Degola
CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’
CALLE CAZZA
RUGA BELA
CALLE
DEI
LIBERTÀ
VECCHIO BERGAMASCHI
SIMEONE
BARI
DELLA
SAN
TRAGHETTO CALLE
DEI
BESAGIO
Rio
CALLE
C.
NUOVA
LARGA
PONTE SALIZADA SAN
Palazzo Gidoni
RIO
C.
CALLE
LUNGA
San Sebastiano
IA
VECCHIO
CALLE LUNA
SALIZADA
del
CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN
RD
R
San Marcuola
DEL REMER
I CALLE ORSETT
CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL
DORSODURO
ICO
NOVA
MISERICORDIA
LA
DEI AMAI
San Nicola da Tolentino
MINOTTO
Magazen
CALLE
Rio
CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO
LARDONI
CALLE SAVIO
RUGA VECCHIA
CAMPO NAZARIO SAURO
GARZOTTI FONDAMENTA
CANAL
DE CAMPO
Del
Rio dei Tolentini
FONDAMENTA
CALLE CONTARINA
BRIATI
FONDAMENTA
Angelo Raffaele
CALLE
della
CAMPO FONDAMENTA DEI MORI ER
CAMPIELLO DEL LIBRER
LA
PROCURATIE
CERERI
DE L’OGIO
MIS
RIO
CAMPIELLO
BIASIO
DI
BARI LISTA
San Simeone Profeta
FONDAMENTA
Soranzo Cappello
CORTE
RIZZI FONDAMENTA
DEI
DEI FONTEGHERI
CALLE
TA
E DEL PISTO
STRADA
DE
RIVA FONDAMENTA
CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO
Palazzo Soranzo Capello
Giardino di Palazzo
CASE
Rio
PENSIERI
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
EN
CALLE TRAGHETTO
CALLE
DEI
MADONA
AM
CALL
NUOVE
SANT'ANDREA
FONDAMENTA
TERÀ
FONDAMENTA
LA
ND
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nde l Gra Cana Riva de Biaso
Ponte degli Scalzi
Ferrovia
CORTE
CALLE
C. LAVADORI TERÀ
TABACCHI
RIO
DE
LER
San Leonardo
San Geremia SPAGNA
DI LISTA TERÀ RIO
FONDAMENTA
San Simeon Piccolo
CROCE
Giardino Papadopoli
PIAZZALE ROMA RIO
FABBRICA FONDAMENTA
CALLE
CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI
Madonna dell'Orto
MADONNA
A
Rio
SCALZI DEI
Sant'Andrea SANT'ANDREA
NICOLO’
NS
DELL'ORTO
ER LE P
EONARDO
SAN LEONARDO
CAMPO SAN GEREMIA
CAVALLETTI
Ferrovia
Ferrovia
LA FO.
TERÀ
SAN
San Nicolò dei Mendicoli
CALLE
Istituto Universitario Di Architettura
CALLE SAN BASILIO
SE
FO
S. L R I O T E R À CAMPO
Santa Maria di Nazareth
P.le Roma
Ponte della Costituzione
RIO
People Mover Venezia
MARTA SANTA FONDAMENTA
MATTA DI CA’
CALLE CASE NUOVE
CAMPIELLO P I AV E
FONDAMENTA
TA
Museo Ebraico
CAL
NA
AI
People Mover Venezia
CAMPIELLO LONGHI
CALLE
AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO
EN
CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO
PRIULI
Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia
ITTICO
AM
San Girolamo
SE
TRONCHETTO
MERCATO
ND
INE
SAVORGNAN
Palazzo Labia Salone del Tiepolo
CALLE DEI FUSERI
ZZ
FONDAMENTA
A E M
CALLE
DEL
DIREZIONE
Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo
Sant'Alvise
CAPITELO
CASE
PU
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NOVA
TRONCHETTO
CAMPO S A N T ' A LV I S E
DEL
CA
CA
ISOLA
People Mover Venezia
Parcheggio Bus Turistici
VENEZIA
di Sant'Alvise
Sensa FO
LE
O
PIAVE
DE
AM
CALLE
TA
OL
LARG
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DEL SABION
BECCARIE
AM
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Palazzo Nani
FONDAMENTA
LE
ND
SA
C.
TA
LLO
FONDAMENTA
FO
EN
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Parco Savorgnan
CALLE
AM
B AT
D’ORO
ND
TA
DEL
EN
CALLE
AM
MATTIA
FORNER
FO
ND
CANNAREGIO
di Cannaregio
SAN
DEL
NUOVA ISOLA DEL TRONCHETTO
della
COLETTI
Canale
GIOBBE
CAMPO SAFFA
L’ARCO
CALLE
CARLO
FO
FONDAMENTA
SAN
San Giobbe
DE
NUOVE
Rio
Rio
FOND.A
Ponte dei Tre Archi
FONDAMENTA
SAN
PENITENTI
CANNAREGIO
VECCHIA
LARGA
FONDAMENTA
CAMPIELLO DEL SCARLATTO
Parco "Villa Groggia"
Monastero Carmelitane Scalze
ROLAMO SACCA SAN GI
CALLE
Santa Maria delle Penitenti
RUGA
F O N D A M E N TA
TA’
CORTE
ER
SANT'AGNESE
B
BRAGADIN
LI
PISCINA
LA
FONDAMENTA
EL
CAMPIELLO DE LA LAVANDER
ISOLA DELLE TRESSE
FAUSTA
Chiesa di San Michele in Isola
D
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CALLE
A
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FR
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Festival Danza Orientale e Danza del Ventre Venezia
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Palazzo del cinema del Lido di Venezia VI
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