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APRIL 2017 THE MONTHLY GUIDE TO
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Venice April 2017 the guide 22 SHOPPING
BAGARON
A new “jewel” has taken place in St. Mark’s Square: Rocca 1794
C A M PA LT O
MESTRE
34 DINING
10
Glam Restaurant offers an interpretation of contemporary Italian cuisine by Enrico Bartolini
FOCUS
34
DINING
44 SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS
Palazzo Grassi, hub of art and culture
Parco San Giuliano
Etro
ISOLA DI TES
52 ENTERTAINMENT
22
Discover the Feast of St. Mark, the city’s patron saint
SHOPPING
54 OUT OF TOWN
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Take advantage of your stay in Venice to enjoy this season’s latest offerings.
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April 25 is an important day for Italy. Celebrated nationwide, it marks the end of the Nazi occupation in 1945 and, in addition, has a significant meaning in Venice, due to the existence of one of the country’s oldest Jewish communities. April 25 is one of Italy’s ‘spring ponti’ and is strategically positioned on the calendar. The word ‘ponti’ literally means bridges ‘and thus a ‘bridge is ‘built’ between the weekend and a national holiday. This is a time when Italians can take advantage of the long weekend to enjoy an out-of-town trip or indulge in special activities. However, in Venice, this particular holiday has an even greater significance than in the rest of Italy. On the Catholic calendar, April 25 is the day on which the Venetians commemorate Saint Mark, the beloved patron saint of the city. To learn more about its myriad attractions, make sure to read our focus on page 10. In April, on the eve of the feast, you’ll feel the emotion of this unique time as you witness the unfolding of several of the city’s most picturesque tradition, a perfect mixture of the sacred and the profane. In order to have a better idea of the program and to learn more about the moving legend of the ‘bocolo’, turn to page 52 of our Entertainment section. It goes without saying that St. Mark’s, which is the nerve centre of Venice, is also the city’s ‘hottest’ shopping precinct (see page 18 and following). If you’re visiting Venice during the first two weeks of April, you’ll have a chance to experience the traditions associated with Easter which falls on 16 April this year. This will affect the opening hours of churches, so before you begin your exploration of Venice's sights, get current information about this season's visiting hours. If, on the other hand, your visit falls at the end of April, you’re in for a treat! The city is getting ready to host its famous Art Biennale which kicks off in the middle of May. Elena Binda, Editor
CUSTOMER SERVICES Moreno Gallo, Cristina Garbini, Maria Grazia Rubino REG. TRIB. MILANO No. 174, 28 JUNE 2016 WHERE® ITALIA SRL, ISCRITTO AL ROC No. 20182 DEL 14 SETTEMBRE 2010 DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE (BG) Although the publisher has made every effort to include copyright credits, in the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would like to apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published in the next issue.
BREAKING NEWS | ART INVADES VENICE Open to the public from 13 May to 26 November 2017, at the Giardini and the Arsenale, the 57th International Art Exhibition, titled “Viva Arte Viva”, will be curated by Christine Macel and organized by ‘La Biennale di Venezia’ chaired by Paolo Baratta (see photo). The Exhibition will also include 87 National Participations in the historic Pavilions at the Giardini, at the Arsenale and in the historic city centre of Venice. www.labiennale.org
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[ SIGHTSEEING]
Top in town
Palazzo Ducale
BASILICA DI SAN MARCO This is the most important Catholic church in the city, and one of the most important monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1000; inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. Map F4 PONTE DI RIALTO This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Originally built during medieval times as a pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto market, it is still a hub of commerce and is 4 W H E R E V E N I C E I A P R I L 2 017
lined on both sides by shops. It includes as many as 120 steps. Map E4 CANAL GRANDE Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the main waterway of Venice. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO The external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell of Palazzo Contarini - an exquisite, late Gothic
building - is enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. Map E4 TEATRO LA FENICE Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries La Fenice theatre has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. Map E5 CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE DI SAN ROCCO A Renaissance complex consisting of a church
MORE AT PAGE 45 and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures. Map D4
PHOTO © DANIMISRA
PALAZZO DUCALE A masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, it features a number of different and intricate architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it is superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. Map F4
Canal Grande
Piazza San Marco with the Basilica and the Tower
EDITOR'S TIP
Ponte di Rialto
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Dear Reader, as you can see from reading our magazine, the editorial staff of Where® has done its best to accompany you on your discovery of Venice. Have we been helpful? Please let us know what you consider most interesting or let us have your feedback if you’d like more in-depth information. This will help us to offer you an even better service in this and the other cities where we are present! Fill out the questionnaire at www.where-venice.com/ ItaliaLuxury and as a sign of our gratitude you will receive a FREE SUBSCRIPTION to the rich digital version of our NEW MAGAZINE ITALIA LUXURY, offering an exclusive overview of Italian treasures. Receiving "Italia Luxury" on a regular basis will enable you to stay connected to the country that you love, ensuring that you are always updated about lifestyles and trends, cultural programs, events and new openings. It’s a great way to help you plan (or fantasize…) about your next visit. w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 5
WHERE NOW | HOT DATES APRIL
HOT DATES Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating Italian traditions, art and music or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates.
ART
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AN INNOVATIVE, MYSTERIOUS HIRST
The first major solo exhibition, dedicated to British artist Damien Hirst, opens this APRIL DECEMBER month. This is Hirst’s first show in Italy since the retrospective dedicated to him at the Museo Archeologico Nazionale in Naples in 2004. Billed as ‘10 years in the making’, this features the British artist’s latest body of never-before-exhibited works at Palazzo Grassi and Punta della Dogana, the Fondazione Pinault’s two exhibition spaces (see page 44). At the artist’s express wish, the contents of the exhibition will only be revealed when it opens. Treasures from the Wreck of the Unbelievable Palazzo Grassi, Campo San Samuele 3231 - Punta della Dogana, Dorsoduro 2 www.palazzograssi.it 6 W H E R E V E N I C E I A P R I L 2 017
APRIL
Punta della Dogana PDD-Mayer-1 / PDD-Mayer-2 © Thomas Mayer
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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES ART
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FEBRUARY
JUNE
PEGGY GUGGENHEIM CELEBRATES SURREALIST ART The Peggy Guggenheim Collection hosts an exhibition dedicated to the work of Rita Kernn-Larsen, a prominent Danish surrealist artist, whom Peggy Guggenheim met in Paris in 1937. The following year, she was invited by Peggy to exhibit her paintings at a one-woman exhibition at the Londonbased ‘Guggenheim Jeune’ gallery; a show that launched Peggy’s career as a patron of Surrealist art. This intimate exhibition inaugurates the two new ‘Project Rooms’, spaces designed to host special projects with the aim of exploring the work of 20th century artists, or specific themes connected to the Peggy Guggenheim collection. Free guided tours of the exhibition daily (3pm). Rita Kernn-Larsen. Surrealist Paintings Peggy Guggenheim Collection, Project Rooms. Dorsoduro, 701 (Palazzo Venier dei Leoni). www.guggenheim-venice.it
ART
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▲ Described as “paintings featuring hybrid animals and scenes of witchcraft”, the works of Bosch - a fascinating, FEBRUARY JUNE enigmatic artist - are unveiled at Venice’s Palazzo Ducale. This unique exhibition is capturing the attention of the public and academics alike, and serves as a means of highlighting Venice’s artistic heritage. The focal points are three works by the artist that are preserved in Venice and have been recently restored to their original splendour.
Jheronimus Bosch e Venezia Palazzo Ducale. Piazza San Marco, 1. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it
OPERA
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MAY
AN IMMORTAL OPERA OF LOVE ► An immortal opera, Gaetano Donizetti’s Lucia di Lammermoor is one of the world’s best-loved operas and has represented a crucial transitional stage - a ‘breakthrough role’, for legendary performers including Maria Callas, Renata Scotto and Joan Sutherland. Following its triumphant Neapolitan debut in 1835, this tragic love story between Lucia and Edgardo continues to be performed at opera houses across the world. This season, Venice’s Teatro La Fenice, will be staging a new production (in the photo, a sketch of Part1, "The Departure" - fifth scene).
Gaetano Donizetti, Lucia di Lammermoor Teatro La Fenice. San Marco, 1965 (Campo San Fantin) www.teatrolafenice.it
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A MIXTURE OF CHARM AND ENIGMA
APRIL ANNUAL EVENTS IN VENICE
SPORT
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VENICE BY RUN
Venice’s annual moonlight half-marathon kicks off this evening at 9pm. Participants can enjoy all the magical allure of the city by night, on an itinerary designed to take them through ‘calli’ and ‘campielli’ and over 51 APRIL bridges. The race starts from San Basilio in Cannaregio. After the first kilometer, participants will cross the Calatrava bridge and continue onwards, through streets and squares, up to Sant’Elena and the Biennale. Running at full speed, they will then head towards St. Mark’s Square in the direction of the Teatro La Fenice in order to once again cross the Grand Canal over the Accademia bridge to reach Punta della Dogana. From here the race heads back towards the Fondamenta delle Zattere for the finish in San Basilio, along the Giudecca Canal. Venice Night Trail. Starting from San Basilio (sestiere Dorsoduro) at 9pm www.venezia.net
PHOTOGRAPHY
JANUARY New Year’s Eve Concert > Arias and operatic selections at La Fenice Opera House. FEBRUARY Carnival of Venice > Shows, masked parades and music in ‘calli’, squares and palaces. APRIL Festa di San Marco/Feast of St. Mark > (25 April) In addition to being a national holiday, on 25 April Venetians also celebrate Saint Mark’s day. Venice Night Trial > (29 April) Urban trail run 16 km through the historical centre of Venice. MAY Biennale of Art “VIVA ARTE VIVA” (13 May-26 November, Arsenale and Giardini) > 57th international exhibition of Contemporary Art Festa della Sensa (or Ascension festivity 27-28 May) > A masked parade in St. Mark’s Square to celebrate the Serenissima and the ‘Sposalizio del Mare’ (Marriage of the Sea) ceremony JUNE/JULY Vogalonga (4 June) > 43rd edition of the 30 km rowing marathon through S. Erasmo, S. Francesco del deserto, Burano, Mazzorbo, Murano and the Grand Canal. The competition is open to the public. Biennale of Dance > (23 June-1 July) Feast of San Piero de Casteo > An end-of-June festivity to celebrate the arrival of summer: the focal point of the event is the Island of San Pietro di Castello. JULY/AUGUST Festa del Redentore / Feast of the Redeemer > (16 July) One of Venice’s best loved festivals, the event features a parade of boats in the Giudecca and fireworks. Biennale of Theatre (25 July-12 August)
12 10 APRIL
AUGUST/SEPTEMBER International Exhibition of Cinematographic Art > (30 August-9 September) Now in its 74th consecutive year, the exhibition is organized by the Biennale of Venice.
THE POP AND BAROQUE UNIVERSE OF DAVID LACHAPELLE
A major monographic exhibition featuring SEPTEMBER ▲
more than 100 images from the 90s to the present day. This exhibition explores the career of David LaChapelle, one of the world’s most important and irreverent contemporary photographers. For the first time ever, the public will have a chance to admire his ‘New World’ series. This series, created over the past four years, features 18 works that mark a return to the human figure and revolve around themes like heaven, and representations of joy, nature and the soul. David LaChapelle. Lost & Found Casa dei Tre Oci. Fondamenta delle Zitelle, 43 (Giudecca area). www.treoci.org
SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER Regata Storica / Historic Regatta (3 September) > One of Venice’s foremost rowing competitions, it is preceded by a spectacular parade of historic 16th century craft. Biennale of Music (29 September-8 October) Venice Marathon (22 October) NOVEMBER Festa della Salute > 21 November A popular religious feast day. DECEMBER Christmas Concert at St. Mark’s basilica
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WHERE NOW | FOCUS
The great heart of Venice St. Mark’s Square is a true jewel of architecture that astounds visitors year-round with its magical colours, exciting events (the traditional Feast of St. Mark is celebrated on 25 April) and numerous shops and restaurants that are just waiting to be discovered! B Y S T E FA N I A V I D A
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D
escribed by many as “the most beautiful salon in the world”, St. Mark’s Square has been the great heart of Venice through the ages, thanks to its historic cafés and its atmosphere enlivened by the music of its small orchestras. So much to see and do! But if you’re pressed for time, don’t worry, we have prepared a practical guide to help you make the most of your visit, and you can also use this guide for your next trip to the lagoon. Read on!
IN THE SHADE OF THE BELL TOWER In the 14th century, the area surrounding St. Mark’s bell tower was filled with stalls selling handicrafts and wine. In order to avoid the heat, these vendors would frequently move their tables into the shade of the bell tower, meaning that it was customary to say “Andèmo bèver al’ombra” (“let’s go and drink in the shade”). Over time, in local dialect, this phrase became “Andèmo bèver un’ombra” (Let’s go and drink a shade), where the meaning of the term ‘ombra’ (shade) indicated a glass of wine. This invitation is still commonly used today by many Venetians when inviting a friend to share a drink. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 11
PHOTO BY DELFINO SISTO LEGNANI AND MARCO CAPPELLETTI © DFS GROUP.JPG
SIGHTSEEING FROM ABOVE Before we begin, let’s make one thing clear. Don’t be alarmed if someone uses the term ‘procuratie’ when giving you directions. The Procuratie are simply the buildings surrounding the three sides of St. Mark’s Square and they are divided into the Procuratie Vecchie to the north, the Napoleonic Wing to the west and the Procuratie Nuove to the south. You’ve just arrived and can’t wait to see the lagoon? Excellent! Head to St. Mark’s Square where you can ascend to the top of the Bell Tower (using the convenient elevator which is open from 9am to 9pm). St. Mark's bell tower or Campanile soars 100 metres over the square, offering a commanding view over the lagoon, a view that you are unlikely to find anywhere else. The bell tower was formerly a lighthouse used to guide sailors. It is here that Venice’s annual Carnival event kicks off with the ‘flight of the angel’ when a young girl wearing traditional costume ‘flies’ from the top of St. Mark’s bell tower to a stage on the opposite side of the square, marking the beginning of the extravaganza with a series of performances and events. Another lookout point, located just a few metres away, is on the terraces of the Basilica of San Marco. Taking photographs of the mosaics inside the Basilica is forbidden, but you can have fun taking ‘selfies in front with the exquisitely carved bronze horses and columns of San Marco
WHERE NOW | FOCUS
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and San Todaro in the background. If you’re a good photographer, you’re likely to get some amazing shots! The terraces of San Marco will also enable you to get a close-up of the details of the beautiful façade of the nearby Palazzo Ducale. In fact, even those of you who are not well-versed in the intricacies of architecture will be awestruck by its elaborate details and decorations… we can assure you that it’s really worth standing in line to admire its overwhelming beauty! Particularly noteworthy is the Scala dei Giganti at the ancient Doge’s palace, named for the two enormous statues positioned on either side of it. Don’t miss the Scala d'Oro, lavishly decorated with frescoes and golden stuccoes. Before descending from its terraces, turn around and head in the opposite direction of Palazzo Ducale until you come to the Clock Tower. 12 W H E R E V E N I C E I A P R I L 2 017
Two large bronze figures known as ‘Moors’ stand on its roof. These figures are driven by a mechanism allowing them to pivot and strike the large bronze bell situated between them with a hammer to mark the hour. The Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana (Piazzetta S. Marco 7) completes the treasures of St. Mark’s Square. This is one of the largest libraries in Italy, and the most important in Venice. It originated when the Italian scholar and poet Francesco Petrarca bequeathed his books to the Republic in 1362. Another absolute ‘must’ is a visit to the Museo Correr (which organizes a number of tours dedicated to the Art and History of Venice), and the Museo Archeologico Nazionale (which shares its entrance with the Correr Museum, Napoleonic Wing). Please note: if you have time to visit all the museums in St. Mark’s Square, you can purchase a single ticket that is valid for the Doge’s Palace and the combined itinerary of the Museo Correr, the Museo Archeologico Nazionale and the Monumental Rooms of the Marciana National Library. Tickets cost €19 and can be purchased online at correr.visitmuve.it. Finally, whilst in the area, don’t miss a visit to one of Venice smallest yet utterly delectable treasures, the Negozio Olivetti. This gem of architecture is located just a short distance from the entrance to the Correr Museum. Italian entrepreneur Adriano Olivetti, whose dream was to create a modern showroom to showcase the famous Ivrea-based company’s typewriters and calculators, commissioned architect Carlo Scarpa to design the building
in 1957. Today, the museum/store, which is protected by FAI (the Italian National Trust), has been restructured and restored to its original splendour showcasing its precious collection of vintage typewriters and calculators (www. negoziolivetti.it). SHOPPING IN STYLE If time is not a factor, you can take a leisurely stroll amidst the city’s numerous ‘calli’, in search of Venice’s most picturesque artisanal ‘botteghe’. However, if you’re pressed for time and don’t want to miss out on the best that the city has to offer, then these are our choices of go-to addresses: Calle Vallaresso, Calle XXII Marzo, Calle Frezzeria and, naturally, the arcades of St. Mark’s Square. These places are home to the top luxury brands of Italian and international fashion, including Chanel, Prada, Hermès, Salvatore Ferragamo, Gucci, Michael Kors, Versace, Giorgio Armani… and also the world’s most coveted jewelry and watch brands, including Damiani, Rocca 1794, Tiffany & Co., Salvadori, Pomellato and IWC Schaffhausen (to mention a few). While in the area, you can visit several traditional Venetian boutiques such as the Antonia Sautter Atelier, a magical place filled with all types of exquisite masks and costumes, which are in great demand, especially at Carnival time (www. antoniasautter.it), and the Bugno Art Gallery in Campo San Fantin (www.bugnoartgallery). Also worthy of note are the sublime glass art of Venini (venini.com), lying next to the Basilica of San Marco, and the exquisite perfumery of
MEMORIES FROM VENICE “One of Europe’s finest specimens of Byzantine architecture, St. Mark’s, has a decidedly soft and whimsical appearance. In contrast to the austere gray towers of NotreDame or Chartres, St. Mark’s seemed imposing and yet, somehow, far more down-to earth.” Dan Brown, writer
August 1963, Venice. Le Corbusier (right) with art historian Giuseppe Mazzariol and lawer Carlo Ottolenghi. © Mazzariol Archives
“This is Venice. St. Mark’s Square, a graceful and brilliant concentration of different eras: the Procuratie Vecchie, the Procuratie Nuove and the Romanesque architecture of the Basilica of San Marco (…) the Campanile, this fabulous bell tower (…) the Palazzo Ducale on its pillars. All these techniques, all these materials. However, each succeeding builder had faith in his own adventure.” Le Corbusier, architect
The Merchant of Venice. Although the latter has several boutiques, the one nearest St. Mark’s Square is located in Campo San Fantin, just steps from the La Fenice opera house (www.themerchantofvenice.com). If you’re not too tired after all your shopping, head to the Mercerie, a trio of tiny, interconnecting streets between St. Mark’s Square and the Rialto bridge. These narrow passageways were once the centre of day-to-day trade in Venice, and they still teem with vendors selling their wares - jewelry, masks, costumes and souvenirs. A real shopping mecca where you can find almost anything your heart desires!
“It is always assumed that Venice is the ideal place for a honeymoon. This is a grave error. To live in Venice or even to visit it means that you fall in love with the city itself. There is nothing left over in your heart for anyone else.” Peggy Guggenheim, art collector
ALL IN ONE Left to right: the ancient mosaics of the Basilica of San Marco, the details of the Clock Tower (below), an amazing feat of engineering, the timeless history of the Negozio Olivetti. Bottom, the splendid Procuratie with its shops, museums and typical restaurants: a multitude of emotions encapsulated in just one square!
DINING AROUND THE SQUARE Three of Venice’s most historic and famous cafés, including Florian, Quadri and Lavena, hold place of pride in St. Mark’s Square. Over the centuries, writers, poets, musicians and famous people from all over the world have patronized these cafés and, even today, they are must-visit stopovers for those wishing to take a trip back in time. During the warmer months, you can savour the experience, while relaxing on their traditional outdoor chairs (the chairs of each café are a different colour) sipping a traditional ‘Spritz’. The atmosphere is further enhanced by the soothing music emanating from the small orchestras that are always present. For connoisseurs wishing to experience all the authenticity of Venice’s famous cuisine, we suggest several venues where you can sample genuine flavours. Our pick includes the Antico w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 13
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TEATRO LA FENICE. PHOTO: © MICHELE CROSERA
A MIXTURE OF MAGICAL ATMOSPHERES AND TRADITION You cannot leave Venice without indulging in at least one of its typical traditions. Absolute ‘musts’ include sitting at the outdoor tables of its historic cafés in St. Mark’s Square while listening to the soothing music played by its orchestras, taking a romantic gondola ride on its canals or enjoying a concert at Teatro La Fenice, one of the city’s most iconic landmarks (top right).
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Martini, situated next to Teatro La Fenice (www. anticomartini.it). Just a little further on, another excellent and picturesque location is Vino Vino, a tavern and wine bar since 1720 (Ponte delle Veste, 2007/a). A more contemporary setting, serving traditional Venetian fare, can be found at the Osteria San Marco (osteriasanmarco.it) while, just a short distance away, near Calle dei Fabbri, you can sample the flavours of bygone days at the undeniably romantic Bistrot de Venise (www.bistrotdevenise.com). If, however, you’re in search of a more international, ‘edgy’ venue, then the Hard Rock Café (Bacino Orseolo 1192 - www.hardrock.com/cafes/venice) is your go-to address. Finally, Venetian landmark Harry’s Bar, deserves a special mention (www.
harrysbarvenezia.com). The favourite haunt of the jet set since it first opened, Harry’s Bar continues to be ‘the’ destination for VIP watching, and it goes without saying that the best cocktail to order is a Bellini, a cocktail made from a mixture of prosecco and white peaches. ENTERTAINMENT & MORE Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, it is imperative to visit the famous Teatro La Fenice which, like the bird after which it is named, rose twice from the ashes. The theater is generally open daily for tours from 9.30am to 6pm, although variations in the schedule may occur due to artistic or technical reasons. Numerous productions are staged throughout the year. Upcoming events include a concert by Jeffrey Tate (7 and 9 April), Lucia di Lammermoor by Gaetano Donizetti (from 21 April to 2 May) and Leonidas Kavakos (24 April, www.festfenice.com). For those who prefer something trendier, we recommend a special tour known as the ‘Bacaro Tour’. This ‘Venetian pub crawl’ takes you on an expedition of several locations where you can sample a selection of tasty Venetian ‘cicchetti’ made from fish, meat or vegetables, accompanied by a glass of wine or a Spritz. Otherwise, an excellent address is Campo Ss. Filippo e Giacomo, where you can choose from among an array of venues that will not disappoint! For the more romantic, an absolute must is a gondola ride along the nearby canals. But those in search of something a little more daring should opt for a helicopter tour of the lagoon: Heliar Venice offers different tours catering to different tastes (www.heliairvenice.it). Take your pick!
boggi.com
MADE IN
Venezia | San Marco 1744 (Bacino Orseolo) | Tel. +39 041 296.03.21 | c/o Stazione Santa Lucia - Fondamenta Santa Lucia n. 20 | Tel. +39 041 524.64.45
WHERE NOW | SHOPPING
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GUIDE Whether you choose an accessory or a fragrance for him or for her, a jewel or some local item, you will certainly be spoilt for choice in the magic of Venice. Take advantage of a stroll through its picturesque ‘calli’ to treat yourself to an accessory or some other alluring detail of style. Where ® guarantees that you won’t leave empty-handed!
▲ DAMIANI This elegant ‘Minou’ necklace conveys a message of vibrant femininity. A unique collection that subtly highlights the luminous brilliance of its round-cut aquamarine, encircled by a wreath of precious diamonds. www.damiani.it
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► CHANEL Get creative with colours! In the new ‘Coco Codes’ collection matte and satin textures collide in a versatile powder of peach, honey, caramel and pink-red shades. At the side, Chanel’s ‘Rouge Coco Shine’ lipstick featured in a delicate shade of beige with a hint of glimmer to enhance a glossy finish. www.chanel.com
FOR HER
◄ ROLEX The ‘Pearlmaster 39’ is the star of Rolex’s gem-set watches. Featuring the softly curved lines of the Pearlmaster design, this Oyster Perpetual is distinguished by its uniquely rich dials and exquisite settings of diamonds, sapphires or rubies. www.rolex.com
► POMELLATO Crafted in rose gold and diamonds, these ‘M’ama Non M’ama’ rings are embellished with five coloured gemstones including amethyst, peridot, London Blue topaz, moonstone and garnet. Elegant yet simple, Pomellato’s collection is characterized by minimalist shapes and seductive colours. www.pomellato.com
▼ VENINI The ‘Idria’ line vases are produced with the hand blown opaline technique, one of the oldest glass-working techniques in the history of Murano glass. Shown here, its news spring/ summer pale-straw version. www.venini.com
HOMEWARE
▼ ANTICHI SPLENDORI Inspired by the Japanese school of design, and created at the turn of the 20th century, this sculpture was hewn from a single piece of red coral. This precious objet d’art is part of the rich range of jewelry and antiques stocked by this highly qualified antique dealer. info@antichisplendori.com
FOR HIM
◄ IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN Designed for both men and women as a classic watch with three hands, the ‘Da Vinci Automatic’ features a round case and a discreet, elegant design. Highlights include a dial with large Arabic numerals and slim, lancet-shaped hands. www.iwc.com
◄ BOGGI MILANO This stylish, lightweight blazer is designed to offer a blend of comfort and formality. It has a structure that can be closed and opened easily, and ideal for the customer seeking the pleasures of travel. A perfect addition to the male wardrobe. www.boggi.com
▲ MICHAEL KORS ‘Extreme Blue’ is the ultimate fragrance for the man who knows what he wants. A modern, masculine blend of freshness and sensual musks, this eau de toilette is the new definition of essential luxury. www.michaelkors.it
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Rocca 1794 illuminates Venice A new ‘jewel’ has taken up residence in St. Mark’s Square: the elegant Rocca 1794 boutique is the latest addition to the refurbished locations of the historic chain of high-end jewelry and watches. By Stefania Vida
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ince its inception, precious materials, Made in Italy craftsmanship and timeless style have characterized the stunning jewelry of Rocca 1794 which can now also be admired at its fully refurbished Venetian boutique. The boutique’s sweeping window displays, overlooking Venice’s famous St. Mark’s Square, host the collections of prestigious brands including Damiani and Salvini, but also the iconic models of some of the world’s most coveted high-end watchmakers including A. Lange & Söhne, Piaget, Hublot, Zenith and Longines. Also particularly worthy of note are the splendid creations in glass handcrafted by Venini, unique artifacts that add a definite touch of allure to the space. Expert collectors or those who are new to the 18 W H E R E V E N I C E I A P R I L 2 017
game can count on a service of excellence which entails full pre-and post-sale assistance. Highly qualified artisans are always on-hand to offer customers expert advice and a full maintenance service including check-ups, revisions and water resistance tests for all watch lines. Other services include providing international certificates that offer information about the grading and characteristics of a diamond. A great opportunity to treat yourself to a unique souvenir in one of Italy’s most romantic cities. A WHOLLY ITALIAN HISTORY The history of Rocca 1794 is a paradigm of excellence, tradition and experience. Its roster of celebrity clients included Giuseppe Verdi, Luigi Pirandello, Gabriele D’Annunzio and
even members of the House of Savoy, for whom Rocca became the official suppliers. To-date, the brand’s elegant boutiques are located in various cities in Italy and Switzerland including Bari, Bologna, Catania, Lecce, Lugano, Malpensa, Mantua, Milan, Orio al Serio, Padua, Taormina, Turin and Venice. >> Rocca 1794 Piazza San Marco, 125 T: 041 5201014. www.rocca1794.com
Belle Epoque by Damiani
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Guidelines ACCESSORIES
The
This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. MAP LOCATIONS- Note that references in bold at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 62-63. TRANSPORT-References to vaporetto lines and stops are based on departure from the Santa Lucia railway station. SHOPPING -Shopping hours are generally from
10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Venice) and on Monday mornings. Ask your concierge. Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.
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TAX-FREE SHOPPING
By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund.
Anatema
Rossana Righini delights customers with her scarves, brooches, costume jewelry, bags, hats and silk, handmade ties. Her windows and display cases express the owner’s philosophy: “The culture of beauty, the magic of elegance”. PASSION TIP Anatema also stocks small Murano glass jewelry. Open daily 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. www.anatema.it. San Polo, 2603. T: 041 5242221. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4
Declare Although the goods sold by this small independent brand are targeted at an international clientele, its owners are true blue Venetians. Its sleek black fitout provides a dramatic backdrop for its sought-after, butter-soft leather bags and accessories handcrafted by artisans using full-grain Tuscan leather. Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. www.declarevenice.com. San Polo, 2671 B/C (Calle Seconda dei Saoneri) T: 041 8223227. Other locations: San Marco 3801 (Calle della Mandola). T: 041 5225559. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Samuele stop). Map D3
Fanny Gloves Colourful, handmade gloves, from the most classic to the most eccentric, lined with cashmere, silk or lapin. Since 2001, Giorgio Fontanive has continued to run this family-owned business, established by his fatherin-law, a Neapolitan glove maker. The brand recently opened a second branch in Cannaregio, in Rio Terà San Leonardo. Open daily 9.30am-1.30pm/2.30pm7.30pm. www.fannygloves.it. San Polo, 2723 (Calle Saoneri) T. 041 5228266. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D2
Francis Model Stylish, high-quality bags with a focus on colour. Established in 1965, this small artisanal ‘bottega’ has always remained faithful to the diktats of Made in Italy craftsmanship. Located just steps from the Rialto Bridge, Ruggero De Zorzi devotes himself to his craft with pride and passion. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www. francismodel.it. San Polo, 773/A (Ruga Ravano). T: 041 5212889. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato stop). Map E3
G. Pagan The result of ongoing research, G. Pagan’s bags and accessories are made from prized materials:
UnionPay Service Hotline: 00 800 800 95516 e-mail: europe@unionpayintl.com
UnionPay is a global payment network originated from China, responsible for the inter-bank payment via UnionPay system worldwide. By June 2016, over 350,000 merchants in Italy accept UnionPay card for payment, among which 30,000 merchants are located in Venice. This allows hundred of thousands of affluent Chinese customers to shop with their favourite cards. UnionPay also actively work with famous retail groups, such as DFS Group, McArthurGlen Designer outlets, SINA hotels, Airport dutyfree shops, to provide special discount or services for UnionPay cardholders. DINING
Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30 € or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. SIGHTSEEING
Information about our selection of museums and monuments is checked as carefully as possible. However, telephone numbers, opening hours, works displayed and site accessibility are subject to change depending on the time of the year, restorations, loans or changes in management. Ask your concierge.
For lovers of style and innovation Just steps from the Rialto Bridge, T Fondaco dei Tedeschi is the address for luxury shopping in Venice. Spread out over a surface area of 7,000 square metres, the Fondaco was first constructed in 1228 and has been a part of the city of Venice for as many as eight centuries. In addition to hosting the collections of the most coveted Italian and international fashion brands, accessories, cosmetics and fragrances, this lavish four-story department store will not only be used as a space for events, exhibitions and cultural initiatives but also as a venue designed to promote authentic Venetian craftsmanship. The ground floor atrium of this luxury department store is home to AMO, the new exclusive Venetian café/restaurant run by the Alajmo brothers offering a gastronomic experience embodying the real soul of Venice, with its symbols and mysteries (www.alajmo.it/amo). And, to top it all, this stunning historic building, overlooking the Grand Canal, is also a gem of architecture which, per se, is worth a visit! The view from the rooftop terrace is breathtaking. From 7 April, the Event Pavilion will host “Waterbones”, a site-specific installation by Italian artist Loris Cecchini, comprised of thousands of thin steel modules assembled one to the other and part of his series of delicate and natural works, suspended between construction and deconstruction. T Fondaco dei Tedeschi by DFS - Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge). www.tfondaco.com. Map F3
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[ FA SHION DESIGNERS]
Luxury Top Brands A new addition every day! The world of designer boutiques in Venice is making waves, and the majority of big-name brands are located around St. Mark’s Square, the great heart of Venice. By heading towards the Accademia from St. Mark’s Square, you will find yourself in Calle Larga XXII Marzo, the widest street in the city, lined with the window displays of the most coveted international brands. A system of ‘calli’ (the word for street in Venetian dialect) known as the ‘Mercerie’ leads from the Clock Tower in St. Mark’s Square to the Rialto, where Venice’s old ‘botteghe’ (workshops) have now been replaced by luxury boutiques.
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From a few months, the world’s most coveted brands have a new home that gathers them all under one roof: T Fondaco dei Tedeschi, the first luxury Venetian department store, located just steps from the Rialto Bridge (see page 19).
These multi-coloured cotton embroidered espadrilles from ETRO add an original touch to the spring wardrobe of fashion-conscious gents. 20 W H E R E V E N I C E I A P R I L 2 017
BALENCIAGA—www.balenciaga.com Open daily 10am-7pm. Calle Vallaresso, 1310. T: 041 5230806. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 BORSALINO—www.borsalino.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sun 11am7pm. San Marco, 4822. T: 041 2411945. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto-Riva del Carbon stop). Map F4 BOTTEGA VENETA—www.bottegaveneta. com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. San Marco, 1473 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5205197. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop or S. Maria del Giglio stop). Map F5 CHANEL—www.chanel.com. Open Mon-Sun 10am-7pm. San Marco, 2070 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2405399. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Valleresso stop). Map E5 CHANEL BEAUTY NEW OPENING San Marco, 1254/A. T: 041 2708699. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Valleresso stop). Map F3 CHURCH’S—www.church-footwear.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am7pm. San Marco, 1316 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2410147. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 DAMIANI NEW OPENING www.damiani.com. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 DIOR— www.dior.com Open daily 10am-7pm. Piazza San Marco, 1255 (Calle Larga de I’Ascension). T: 041 2411636. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5
Elegant geometric FRATELLI ROSSETTI backpack. Distinctive features include a bow closure with tassels at the end of the laces.
FENDI—www.fendi.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-7pm. San Marco, 1582 (Calle Frezzaria). T: 041 2778532. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4 FRATELLI ROSSETTI—www.fratellirossetti. com Open daily 10am-7pm. Campo S. Salvador, 4800. T: 041 5230571. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto stop). Map F4 • Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. San Marco, 1477 (San Moisè). T: 041 5220819. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map F5 GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani.com Open Mon- Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. San Marco, 4412 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 8503048. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map F4 • Armani Jeans at Marco Polo Airport. GUCCI—www.gucci.com. Open daily 10am7.30pm. San Marco, 2102 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2413968. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4 • Open daily 10am-7.30pm Piazza San Marco, 258 T: 041 5229119. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Giardinetti stop). Map E5
DOLCE&GABBANA—www.dolcegabbana.it Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco, 233/266 (corner of Mercerie dell'Orologio). T: 041 5209991. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Giardinetti). Map F4
HERMÈS—italy.hermes.com. Open daily 10.30am-7pm. San Marco, 1292. T: 041 2410715. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map F5
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA—www.zegna.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. Bocca di Piazza San Marco, 1241. T: 041 5221204. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map F4
LORO PIANA—www.loropiana.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. San Marco Ascensione, 1301. T: 041 2770695. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 • Marco Polo Airport, Viale Luigi Broglio, 8 (open 6.30am-9pm). T: 041 5415072.
ETRO—www.etro.com. Open daily 10am7.30pm. San Marco, 1340 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5232599. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5
LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 10.30am8pm. San Marco, 1345. T: 041 5224500.
Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 MICHAEL KORS—www.michaelkors.com. San Marco, 1461 (Campo San Moisè). T: 041 2960312. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map F5 MISSONI—www.missoni.it. Open daily 10am7.30pm. San Marco, 1312 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5205733. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco, 1471 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 8106066.Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 PRADA—www. prada.com. Open daily 10am7.30pm. San Marco, 1464/1469 (Salizada San Moise). T: 041 5283966. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 RENÉ CAOVILLA— www.renecaovilla.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. San Marco, 1296. T: 041 5238038. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4 ROBERTO CAVALLI— www.robertocavalli. com Open daily 10am-7pm. San Marco, 1314. T: 041 5299020. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 SAINT LAURENT—www.ysl.com. Open MonSat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. San Marco, 1302. T: 041 5202211. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— www.ferragamo.com. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-7pm. San Marco, 2098 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2778509. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5 • Marco Polo Airport. T: 041 268357 (open 6.30am-9pm). TIFFANY & CO. NEW OPENING www.tiffany.it. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037.Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map F5 TOD’S—www.tods.com. Mon-Sat 10am7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-1pm/2pm-7pm. San Marco, 2251 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5206603. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5
VERSACE—www.versace.com Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco, 1462 (Campo San Moisè). T: 041 5200057. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 • Marco Polo Airport. T: 041 2611556 (open 6.30am-9pm).
Designed by Paloma Picasso for TIFFANY & CO., this bold five-band ring from the ‘Melody’ collection is an icon of timeless beauty.
Sizing Women clothes IT EUR US UK 36 32 1 4 38 34 2 6 40 36 4 8 42 38 6 10 44 40 8 12 46 42 10 14 48 44 12 16 Women shoes IT EUR US UK 36 36 6 3 37 37 6.5 4 38 38 7.5 5 39 39 8.5 6 40 40 9 7 41 41 9.5 8 Men clothes IT EUR US UK 50 46 36 36 52 48 38 38 54 50 40 40 56 52 42 42 58 54 44 44 60 56 46 46 Men shoes IT EUR US UK 40 40 7.5 6 41 41 8 7 42 42 8.5 8 43 43 9 9 44 44 10.5 10 45 45 11.5 11 46 46 12 12
MICHAEL KORS brings on the blooms for spring 2017. Vibrant floral prints, harking back to the 60s, dial up the optimistic motif, infusing the collection with a carefree, irreverent look.
VALENTINO—www.valentino.com Open 6.30am-9pm. Marco Polo Airport. T: 041 2698001. (open 6.30am-9pm). w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 21
SHOPPING crocodile, python and even eel. Everything here is about style, it’s worth a visit! It also has another store in Calle della Mandola. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco, 54 (Sotto le Procuratie). T: 041 5208924. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop).
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Gabriele Gmeiner Austrian by birth and Venetian by adoption, Gabriele Gneimer is a real footwear guru, boasting an impressive resume. The designer studied at several of the world’s most prestigious design schools and several of her handcrafted pieces are exhibited at museums. Her shoes, known as ‘Ferrari Footwear’, are built entirely around the shape of her customers’ feet. Open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm/2pm-6pm. By appointment only. www. gabrielegmeiner.com. San Polo, 951 (Campiello del Sol). T: 338 8962189. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Map E3
Giovanna Zanella For the past ten years, Venetian designercobbler Giovanna Zanella has been creating exclusive lines of shoes for men and women at her workshop located just a stone’s throw from the Rialto Bridge. Each pair is endowed with its own, unrepeatable personality and Giovanna refers to them as “magical, haute couture creations” because they are often enhanced by a surprise element like touches of nylon, cobra heads, pistils or fringes. Open Mon-Sat 1.30pm-8pm. www. giovannazanella.it. Castello, 5641 (Calle near Campo San Lio). T: 041 5235500. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Giuliana Longo A milliner boasting a longstanding family tradition dating back to the early 20th century, Giuliana Longo’s fame has spread far beyond the boundaries of Venice, thanks to her unique Venetian aesthetic. Her shop is the dream hat-cupboard of any true sartorialist, amidst old-world furnishings, original panama hats and handmade headgear. PASSION TIP The only shop in town where you can find authentic gondolier’s hats. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.giulianalongo.com. San Marco, 4813 (Calle del Lovo). T: 041 5226454. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
La Parigina An historic Venetian shoe shop which has been producing its own-name sleek, butter-soft leather shoes for men and women since the 1940s. It also stocks a wide selection of international brands including Church’s, Timberland, Camper, Michael Kors, Bikkemberg sandals and Siton loafers. La Parigina also carries an assortment of luxury sportswear. www.laparigina.it. Open daily 10am7.30pm. San Marco, 733. T: 041 5231555. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4 • Open daily 9am-1pm/4pm-8pm. Venezia Lido, Gran Viale S. M. Elisabetta 14, T: 041 2420475. Vaporetto line 2 (Lido stop). Off Map
Macrì This shoe boutique in San Marco - its other branch is located in Frezzeria - has been a reference point for discerning Venetians since the 1970s. Its owner Jacopo Nobili sells sought-after, classic men and women’s shoes, distinguished by their Made in Italy
ADVERTORIAL
aesthetic. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco, 420 (Calle Larga). T: 041 522 9956. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco stop) Map F4• Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco Frezzeria, 1583. T: 041 522 8997.
Michele De Fina Highly select leather shoes, its owner oversees each stage of the working process from the cutting of the leather to the end creation. Craftsmanship and Italian style are the hallmark traits of Venetian shoe designer Michele De Fina. Open daily 10am-1pm/2pm-7pm. www. micheledefina.com. San Marco, 318/A (Calle della Canonica). T: 041 3030189. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop or San Zaccaria stop).
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René Caovilla In the 1950s, twenty-year-old René started working at his family’s footwear factory, revealing his talent as a ‘footwear sculptor’. Based in Venice, he has collaborated with fashion houses of the likes of Valentino, Dior, Galliano, Chanel and is noted for the stunning line of "jewel shoes" he co-created with Karl Lagerfeld. Shoe-designer to the stars, A-listers who adore his creations include Gwen Stefani, Robin Wright, Britney Spears and Sarah Jessica Parker. PASSION TIP His pumps in Venetian lace are truly iconic! Open daily 10am7pm. www.renecaovilla.com. San Marco, 1296. T: 041 5238038. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map F4
SV Lab As its name suggests, more than a shop, SV Lab is a creative workshop that its owner Carlo Sartori likes to describe as “his parallel world”. Not just a shop selling shoes and accessories - a place where you can create a sophisticated, eccentric total look - but also an open space where it is not unusual to find artists at work... Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-6pm. www.svlab.it. San Marco, 2663 (Campo San Maurizio). T: 041 5220595. Vaporetto line 1 (Giglio stop). Map E5
ART GALLERIES Bugno Art Gallery Situated in front of the La Fenice Theatre, the gallery has cooperated with well-known artists on the Venetian scene including Guidi, Giuseppe Santomaso, Emilio Vedova and Armando Pizzinato, as well as other international contemporary painters. Particularly noteworthy among the illustrious names represented by the gallery are Luca Campigotto, Paolo Ventura, Ben Vautier, Mario Schifano, Arman, Salvo, Joe Tilson, Maurizio Galimberti, Marco Zanta, Giovanni Chiaramonte. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am7pm; Sun 4pm-7.30pm by appointment. www. bugnoartgallery.it. San Marco, 1996/d (Campo San Fantin). T. 041 5231305. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E4
GEMS OF VENICE In the heart of Venice near the Rialto Bridge, this is a unique boutique and workshop where precious stones are cut and transformed into genuine, wearable works of art. For more than thirty years, Gems of Venice has sourced several of the world's most precious stones including jade, diamonds and gems… taking us back to the fascinating voyages of Venetian merchant Marco Polo.
22 W H E R E V E N I C E I A P R I L 2 017
Contini Galleria d’Arte www.gemsofvenice.it San Polo, 1044 (Ruga Rialto-Rughetta Ravano) T: 041 5225148
Established at the end of the 1960s by Stefano Contini to indulge his passion for art, the gallery is a reference point for dealers and collectors specializing in contemporary art works and sculptures. In addition to Venice, other branches of the Contini galleries are located in Mestre and Cortina D’Ampezzo. Artists showcased include Botero, Mitoraj, Christo, Picasso, Fontana and Giacometti. Open daily 10.30am-1pm/2pm-7.30pm. www.continiarte.com. San Marco, 2288 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5230357. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso). Map E5
SHOPPING Galleria Ravagnan Founded in 1967, in a fairly small yet evocative space in the historic centre, the Ravagnan Gallery is one of the city’s oldest, most exclusive art galleries in the city. It exhibits works by artists of national and international renown, exports art works throughout the world and participates at prominent international and American art fairs. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10am-6pm. www.ravagnangallery.com. Piazza San Marco, 50/a. T: 041 5203021. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4
The Rialto Market
Melori & Rosenberg Gallery Opened in 1996, it was the first Gallery to exhibit contemporary art in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo. A unique Italian representative for Luigi Rocca’s artworks, the Gallery also showcases the artworks of other well-known Italian and international artists. Open daily 9.30am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7.30pm. www. melori-rosenberg.com. Cannaregio, 2919 (Campo del Ghetto Novo). T: 041 2750039. Vaporetto line 4.1 or 5.1 (Fondamente Nove stop). Map D4
CLOTHING MEN & WOMEN Al Duca d'Aosta Originally established in Venice in 1902, Al Duca d’Aosta now boasts stores in six cities across the Triveneto region: Venice, Padua, Verona, Mestre, Treviso and Udine. The historical four-storey Venice location features over 100 top fashion brands for men and women, carefully selected to offer its clientele quality and elegance. These include casual men’s lines for a sporty-chic look, sartorial designs for savvy-style gentlemen and women’s wear, featuring the iconic accessories of the latest collections, including small leather goods and bijoux, for a glamorous, cosmopolitan aesthetic. The store offers numerous special facilities and services for its customers, including a Personal Shopping service and Tax Free Shopping. Open Mon-Sat 10am7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.alducadaosta.com. San Marco, 4945. T: 041 5220733. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Boggi Milano An easy yet sophisticated look for businessmen on the go, but, above all, a guarantee of style for those who appreciate quality. Boggi Milano offers garments aimed at a contemporary, modern and cosmopolitan man who is not prepared to sacrifice the classics of the male wardrobe: the suit, a second skin that is so comfortable that it can be worn on any occasion. Other locations: Cannaregio (inside the Santa Lucia Railway Station, Platform 6- Fondamenta Santa Lucia, 20) and Marco Polo Airport. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. www.boggi.it. San Marco, 1744 (Bacino Orseolo). T: 041 2960321. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4
DEPARTMENT STORES Coin Excelsior Located in Cannaregio, just a few steps from the Rialto Bridge, this luxury department store store extends over four floors surrounding the original indoor courtyard where designer Felice Limosani’s lighting installation is showcased. The store provides a selection of both Italian and International fashion brands, as well as furniture (on the top floor), cosmetics and luxury perfumery (ground floor). Open daily 10am-
Rialto Market
A trip to Venice is not complete without a visit to the Rialto Market, possibly one of the city’s most authentic and traditional experiences. This is one of Venice’s most ancient markets, a one-of-a-kind place crowded with Venetians, shopkeepers and tourists eager to shop. It is located near the Rialto Bridge, on the San Polo side, extending across the Canal Grande, between Campo San Giacomo and Campo della Pescaria. Campo San Giacomo is a beautiful square surrounded by a portico called Sottoportego del Bancogiro, an ancient bank where merchants would gather to negotiate. If you’d like to try the famous 'cicchetti', accompanied by a glass of wine or a spritz, a number of 'bacari', Venice’s traditional ‘osterie’, can also be found in the area. Several of these bars face
onto the opposite side of the building, on a magnificent plaza crowded with tables, and from here, if you walk along the river, you’ll reach a large food market, and finally, the Pescaria, the famous Fish Market. From early morning, on any day of the week (except Sunday) this vibrant place is frequented by Venetian locals, who regularly shop here, browsing its colourful stalls that are located under a loggia near the Grand Canal. Inscriptions about fish-related regulatory measures, proclaimed by the Republic of Venice, can still be found on the walls! >> Fish Market: Open Tues-Sat 7.30amnoon. Food Market: Mon-Sat 7.30am1.30pm. San Polo 330-338 (Campo della Pescaria). Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato) or traghetto from Campo Santa Sofia (€2).
8.30pm. www.coinexcelsior.com. Cannaregio, 5787. T: 041 5203581. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F3
FASHION OUTLETS
T Fondaco dei Tedeschi
With more than 130 stores, cafés and restaurants, visitors can find their favourite labels with price reductions of up to 70%, all year round, and further discounts at the annual summer and winter sales. From iconic fashion brands like Prada, Gucci, Armani, Fendi, Jil Sander and Paul Smith to sporting labels, like Nike and X-Bionic, and high-street favourites, like Guess and Desigual. Easy to reach from Venice, Treviso, Jesolo, Padua and the beaches in the region, it offers endless entertainment, from the children’s adventure play area to restaurants and cafés and even an annual summer music festival. Tax refund for Non-EU citizens. Open daily 10am-10pm. www.mcarthurglen.com. Via Marco Polo, 1 (Noventa di Piave, 30 minutes from Venice). T: 0421 5741. Off Map
The recently renovated 16th century building that extends over 7000 sqm is a luxury shopping, food and cultural destination. Surrounding a central courtyard, the store offers the best in leading Italian and international fashion brands, accessories, jewellery and watches, wines and spirits, beauty and fragrances, food and a rich selection of local gifts. Don’t miss the specially curated cultural program on the 4th floor and the breathtaking view from the roof terrace. In partnership with Premier Tax Free, the store will also offer an instant detax at the cash desk when the payment is made by credit card, the first of this kind in Europe. www.TFondaco.com. Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge). T: 041 3142000. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).
Map E3
Noventa di Piave Designer Outlet
Palmanova Outlet Village Just one hour from Venice, Palmanova Outlet Village offers 90 stores with the trendiest brands w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 23
SHOPPING
Artistic glass in Murano
San Marco, 1474/1475 (Calle San Moisè). T: 041 8842511. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5
Chopard Famed for its creativity, state-of-the-art technology and outstanding savoir-faire, the Swiss Jewelry brand opens doors to jet-set luxury and glamour, while its traditional watches are made with all the aplomb of a master craftsman. Open daily 10.15am-6.30pm. www.chopard.it. Piazza San Marco, 51. T: 041 5231883. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Damiani
NEW OPENING A reference point in the world of high-end jewelry, Damiani is renowned for its unmistakable style and innovative technical solutions, including its ‘a lunette d’illusione’ setting designed to highlight the brilliance of its stones. www.damiani. com. San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4
Dodo Glassmaking had already become an integral part of life in the Venetian lagoon in the 7th century B.C. Furthermore, after the year 1000 A.D. its production had become so important that it was protected by specific laws: the furnaces used to create the molten glass were a constant fire hazard in the narrow streets of Venice. As a consequence, all the glass workshops were moved to Murano where they are still located today. It was here that eyeglasses were invented in the 13th century and here that, in 1369, mirrors began to be produced. It was also here that, in 1450, Angelo Barovier invented crystal. Glass was a rare commodity throughout the Renaissance: it was only in 1827 that production on an industrial level began. At that point, blown glass or glass produced by lampworking became a highly prized material used for artistic purposes, achieving its height of splendor during the Art Nouveau period. Artists including Lalique, Dammouse and Tiffany
sought out the glassblowers of Murano to produce their famous works. As a result of this experience, during the mid-20th century, real masters of the art began to emerge in Murano including Signoretto, Ballarin, Zanetti and Vidal. Their works are highly coveted objects, true collectors’ items which are often displayed at museums. Murano has numerous glass factories, several of which boast an age-old history (i.e. Barovier&Toso) or a list of particularly prestigious collaborations (i.e. Venini). Crafting authentic Murano glass is no easy task and does not come cheap. Large objects require hours of work, so don’t expect to take your custom-made lamp home on the same day. Furthermore, each piece is unique meaning that small imperfections are an integral part of the value of the object. Finally, the island’s glass factories are equipped to make safe deliveries anywhere in the world… ask your concierge!
The range of luxurious yet cute gold jewelry created by Dodo, the brand founded by Pomellato in 1995, is by now a classic either for gift or collection purposes thanks to its iconic good luck charms, each of which has its own special meaning. www.dodo.it. c/o Coin Excelsior (www.coinexcelsior.com). Cannaregio, 5787. T: 041 5203581. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F3
Gems of Venice For more than thirty years, Gems of Venice has sourced the most precious stones, which are then processed at its workshop near the Rialto Bridge, in the heart of Venice, to become authentic wearable art. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-9.30pm; Sun 10.30am-2pm/3.30pm6.30pm. San Polo, 1044. T: 041 5225148. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4
IWC Schaffhausen Swiss watchmaker IWC has opened an elegant space in Venice’s famed and fabled St. Mark’s Square. The brand’s new boutique, located in one of the most beautiful cities in the world, is a must-visit for any watch enthusiast. Fans of its luxury timepieces are invited to discover the fascinating world of IWC’s six watch families, its innovative craftsmanship and all the allure of high-end watchmaking. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-6.30pm. www.iwc.com. Piazza San Marco, 43. T: 041 8842451. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map F5
Jaeger-LeCoultre discounted by up to 70% and open all year around: Adidas-Reebok, Aldo Bruè, Baldinini, Alberta FerrettiMoschino, Calvin Klein, Fedon, Iceberg, Ixos-Malloni, Nike, Piquadro, Pollini and many others. Tax refund for Non-EU citizens. In addition to shopping, Palmanova Outlet Village makes you discover a land full of history and taste: the picturesque hills of the Collio region, the landscapes of Friuli’s Dolomites and the Alps, close to the Karst plateau with the historical sites of the Great War and the star-shaped city of Palmanova, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Open daily 10am-8pm. www. palmanovaoutlet.it. Take the A4 highway VeneziaTrieste and exit at Palmanova. Infoline: T: 0432 837810. Off Map
JEWELRY & WATCHES Audemars Piguet A must-visit stopover for luxury watch lovers. A purveyor of classic watches since 1875, Audemars 24 W H E R E V E N I C E I A P R I L 2 017
Piguet is the place to go for elegant timepieces, made to the very highest standards. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-6.30pm. www.audemarspiguet.com. Piazza San Marco, 18. T: 041 5285519. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Boncompagni Venezia This historic boutique in St. Mark’s Square stocks some of Italy’s most coveted jewelry brands, offering its clientele a unique selection of beautifully crafted pieces. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-6pm. www.boncompagnivenezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 130/131/132. T: 041 5224563. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Cartier In addition to its renowned collections of haute joaillerie, Cartier is also famous for its priceless timepieces, a perfect mix of design and technology, enhanced by precious metals and diamonds. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.cartier.it.
A meeting place for collectors and haute horlogerie enthusiasts, at this boutique customers will have the pleasure of discovering the latest creations and exquisite timepieces designed by this master of Swiss watchmaking. Open daily 10am-7pm. www.jaegerlecoultre.com. Piazza San Marco, 65. T: 041 884241. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F5
Nardi Venezia A combination of a love of precious stones and a passion for the art of goldsmithery make Nardi’s jewelry rare accessories to be worn or collected, the epitome of sheer Venetian elegance. Open daily 10am-6.30pm. www.nardi-venezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 69. T: 041 5225733. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F5
Omega Omega is a pioneer in the field of watchmaking. Quality and innovation are key to the vision of one of Switzerland’s most famous haute horologists. At
SHOPPING
PHOTO © DE LUNA_WHEREITALIA
Unique in Venice
PHOTO © DE LUNA_WHEREITALIA
Eredi Jovon
Eredi Jovon's cameo
La Bottega dei Mascareri
Artisanal ‘botteghe’, tiny jewel-like boutiques and vintage shops, this 'unique' city offers an array of 'unique' locations where you can indulge in an authentic shopping experience and purchase objet d’art, fabrics and accessories that you'll be hard put to find elsewhere. While strolling through its ‘calli’, you will discover how the tradition cultivated by the latter endows this city with its characteristic vibrancy… La Bottega dei Mascareri The workshop of the Boldrin brothers specializes in the crafting of a variety of papier mache Venetian masks, including jesters, elves and characters from the ‘Commedia dell’Arte’ for a trip back into 18th century Venice. The Mascareri have also worked for the theatre, the cinemas and fashion shows, and are considered among several of the most established manufacturers of collector’s items. They were the first mask makers to embellish their masks with decorations by Tiepolo. Open daily 9am-6pm. www. mascarer.com. San Polo, 80 (Vaporetto line 1 or 2, Rialto stop). T: 041 5223857 and San Polo, 2720 T: 041 5242887 (Vaporetto line 1 or 2, San Tomà stop). Map E3 Eredi Jovon A celebrated Venetian jeweler since 1934, and the owner of one of the few remaining historical shops on the Rialto bridge, Eredi Jovon is famous for its hand-carved Italian shell and blue agate cameos, set in silver or gold, and available at factory prices
or on special offer. The shop is also renowned for its beautiful coral, Murano glass and blackamoor jewelry. High quality, superior craftsmanship and its wide assortment of cameos and customized coral jewelry allow Eredi Jovon to satisfy the individual tastes of even the most discerning customers.Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.eredijovon.com. Ponte di Rialto, 5325. T: 041 5228979 (Vaporetto line 1 or 2, Rialto stop). Map F4 Gems of Venice For more than thirty years, Gems of Venice has sourced the most precious stones, which are then processed at its workshop near the Rialto Bridge, in the heart of Venice, to become authentic wearable art. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-9.30pm; Sun 10.30am2pm/3.30pm-6.30pm. San Polo, 1044. T: 041 5225148. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4 Piedàterre Tucked away under an arcade just steps from the Rialto bridge is a tiny boutique with an astonishing
Piedàterre
selection of handmade slippers, where Alessandra and Renato make and sell colourful ‘furlane’ (slippers), handcrafted with recycled bicycle-tyre treads, ideal for finding your footing on a gondola. Their creations are available in coloured velvet, brocade, printed fabrics or recycled shirting, provided by their customers. Highly original and absolutely unmissable! Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.piedaterre-venice.com. San Polo, 60 (Ruga Rialto, Sotoportego dei Oresi). T: 041 5285513. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato). Map E3 Tessitura Bevilacqua Artisanal weavers specializing in the production of exquisite, decorative fabrics for furnishings and curtains. A unique place! Since 1875, the company has practiced the art of weaving on original looms that once belonged to the Venetian School of Silk. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-4pm (Sat-Sun by appointment). www.luigi-bevilacqua.com. Santa Croce 1320. T: 041 721566. Vaporetto line 1 (Riva de Biasio stop). Map E5
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CORTE NOVA Founded in 1837 in New York, Tiffany & Co. is a The prestigious stand-alone boutique of this brand Santi Apostoli world-renowned jeweller. Since its introduction in which represents the ‘Art of Perfumery in Venice’ is Established in 1967 as an artisanal workshop, over CAMPIELLO WIDMANN CAMPIELLO CAL GAB LE DELLA CASON Càjewelry d'Oro has captivated 1886, the Tiffany® Setting has been known as the housed in the former, mid-17th century apothecary of the years, its contemporary R IE LI ultimate symbol of love, paving the way for Tiffany’s San Fantin, located just steps from La Fenice Opera wearers around the world. Pomellato creates highly S.Canciano Ospedale SS. Giovanni e C A M P I E L L O Chiesa Evangelica CAL SAN CANCIAN O legendary collection of engagement rings. Bold, ANN House. Its neo-Gothic décor and ornamentation sought-after collections featuring a range of stones D R IO LE M L E S Luterana ID CUO W E modern collections, including the elegant, minimalist in walnut, wood Land terracotta, reflect the typical boasting myriad colours and ultra-feminine designs. E LL CA CAMPO creations designed by Elsa Peretti and the brightlystyle of ancient Venetian ‘palazzi’. The Merchant Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www. S.MARIA NOVA CAMPO DELLA CAL L E not only a line of products but a wider San Cassiano pomellato.com. San Marco, 2031 PESCARIA (Calle Larga XXII coloured lines by Paloma Picasso, of Venice is LAR N have made GA A N ZI A G. G SAN C ALL ZA D Athose seeking spectacular Marzo). T: 041 5231909. Vaporetto line 2 (San MarcoTiffany a destination project which includes a concept store in Murano, IN A S A LIfor Santa Maria R IO CAMPO DE Open daily Vallaresso stop).CAMPO MapDEF4LA beauty, style and the very best in design. the Palazzo Mocenigo Museum inBasilica Santa Croce, the dei SAN CASSAN I M dei Miracoli IR BECARIE San Giovanni Santi Giovanni AC (Calle 10am-7.30pm. www.tiffany.it. San Marco, 1336 Spice shop in Ercole d’Oro (Cannaregio) and the e Paolo CA C A LL OL LL E DE CAMPO CAMPO ED Salvadori I FO R Grisostomo CA EC Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Vaporetto line 2 (San World of VeniceL space at the Marco Polo Airport. www. NO CESARE BATTISTI CAL LL A’ LE C ED MROLEX SANTI GIOVANNI GIÀ AST RETAILER Salvadori was founded UT in EL ELL I DELLA I A Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 themerchantofvenice.com. Open Tues-Sun 10.30amBO Teatro Malibran E PAOLO BELLA VIENNA TA Venice in 1857. A member of the World Federation CAMPO of CA LL 7.30pm. San Marco, 1895 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 dell’Osped E DE LE SAN GIACOMETO Chiesa ER BE DiamondD CBourses, Salvadori purchases its diamonds A CORTE SECONDA 2960559. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). EL MP San Giacomo DEL MILION CARAMPANE SA IEL from Antwerp and Tel Aviv, accompanied by the NS LO BA RB AR ON di Rialto IA DE LE I Casa di Marco Polo Map F4 TO LE highest diamond quality certificates. Open Mon-Sat CA RA Ca’ Macana Venini MP CAMPO 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-6.30pm. www.salvadoriAN CAMPIELLO E RIALTO Fontego One of the oldest and finest mask making An artistic space, where you rediscover all the DEL SOL Diamond Atelier Venice: Piazza NUOVO San venezia.eu. dei Tedeschi workshops in Venice for Carnival, theatre, film elegance and sophistication of the exquisite O Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Salvadori Boutique Rolex: N VA CA RA production and parties. Ca’ Macana crafts Cauthentic C. D LLE creations handcrafted by Master glassmakers from Sant’Aponal EL EL F DEL AD Piazza San Marco, 44. T: 041 2602313. Salvadori .M A ONT ET P IO E R H G T MB O G IN E Pontehandmade masks in the same way that Venetian O NG RU Murano. A prime location for passionate collectors, SA OD CAL Boutique Panerai: Piazza San Marco, 47. T: 041 . PA N G FO L E L SA LE di Rialto CORTE CAMPO N CAMPO IOVNDA ZZO CORTE LIZ artisans did 800 years ago, neverG IArepeating a further their knowledge AN ME DO TREVISAN ZA CAMPOor those whose want to APONAL Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso DEL NI NT 5200899. ER SAN SAN BORTOLOMIO DA LA A P L DEL VOLTO PRESTRIN TE PIO RA decoration in order to ensure that each mask is DE CAMPO about an entirely Italian art, Venetian glass creations, NO X LE L stop). Map F5 SAN LIO CA Rialto unique. Thanks to their expertise, they also hold meticulously handcrafted by Master craftsmen. Open CAMPIELLO LO San Silvestro CAMPO SANTA MARIA SAL IZ DE FORMOSA A D AVenetian conferences and courses on the history of Tag Heuer Mon-SatFONDAMENTA 10am-7pm. www.venini.com. San Marco, 314. SAN SAN SILVESTRO C. D I EL G L IO DEI PRETI ALIA ZZOmask-making techniques. Since 1860 Tag Heuer has been settingFontego milestones inCALLE masks and traditional T: 041 5224045.Santa Other location: Fondamenta Vetrai, CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO Maria LA C. LA RGA masks were featured in important film Maria 47 (Murano). T: 041 Swiss watchmaking. It is the first watchmaker toManin master RGTheir A CORTE DEL Santa 2737204. Vaporetto line 2 (RialtoBORGOLOCO or SAN LORENZO Dolfin MA Formosa Palazzo Z Palazzo Rava unsurpassed ZIN CORTE SABION CAMPO I DEL MONDO productions including “Eyes Wide della Shut” byFava Stanley San Marco luxury sports chronographs with an stops). C. DE CAMPOIELLO DE LA FAVA Grimani Rialto CORTE NUOVO L CA
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ADVERTORIAL
OTTICA MANTOVANI Sun and prescription glasses, the most technologically advanced lenses and the most comfortable, fashionable frames. Managed by the Carlon family since the ‘40s, it is now run by the third generation of opticians: a reference point for locals requiring either prescription eyewear or sunglasses. In fact, one of the Mantovani’s most famous customers was Peggy Guggenheim. Map F4 www.xxxxxx.org Viale xxxxx, 6 www.otticamantovani.it T:San 02 xxxxx Marco, 4860 (Mercerie del Capitello). More www.wheremilan.com T: 041info: 5223427.
NICOLAO ATELIER An artisanal tailor’s shop that makes Venetian-style period costumes for movies, plays, commercials and Carnival parties. More than 10,000 sets of underwear, accessories, headgear and capes, all exhibited in an elegant premises in the centre of Venice that comprise a workshop, a showroom and the entire costume collection. Map E2
www.nicolao.com Cannaregio, 2590 (Fondamenta della Misericordia). T: 041 5207051.
VINO E... VINI This must-visit wine ‘boutique’ is located just steps from piazza San Marco, the Arsenale and Campo Bandiera e Moro (San Zacaria stop). It carries a prestigious selection of major Italian wines as well as French, Spanish, Californian and even Lebanese vintages. Don’t miss the extensive assortment of dessert wines and exclusive grappas. Map F4
Castello, 3566 (Salizada del Pignater). T: 041 5210184.
ANTICHI SPLENDORI Devoted to the ongoing search for objet d’art and antiques, the mission of this highly qualified antique dealer is to keep the interest in authentic masterpieces alive. Its San Lio-based store in Venice offers a careful selection of the city’s artistic treasures, with a particular focus on antique jewelry, Murano glass from the 11th to 20th centuries and paintings of Venetian landscapes. Map F4 Castello, 5545 (Salizada S. Lio). T: 041 5239265. More info: www.where-venice.com w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 27
SHOPPING
Top antiques
Tessitura Bevilacqua
Venice is infused with so many historical and artistic artefacts that the city’s passion for antiques is literally embedded within its soul. There are so many large and small workshops that it is almost impossible to list them all. Where® has selected a pick, renowned for their quality and tradition. Alessandro Zoppi A true son of Venice, Alessandro Zoppi, one of the most passionate and authoritative collectors and art merchants in the city, spent his youth travelling extensively abroad. In 1961, he moved to London where he stayed for a few years. The owner, for more than a decade, of the highly prestigious Antichità Cesana, today, Zoppi’s house-museum features a number of pieces from his impressive collections, with a particular emphasis on artistic glass objet d’art dating from the 16th through 20th centuries. PASSION TIP Visiting his house-museum, or even talking to Alessandro Zoppi, is like taking a marvellous journey back in time. By appointment only. T: 335 6657005. email: winglets13@gmail.com. Antichi Splendori Devoted to the ongoing search for objet d’art and antiques, the mission of this highly qualified antique dealer is to keep the interest in authentic masterpieces alive. Its San Lio-based store in Venice offers a careful selection of the city’s artistic treasures, with a particular focus on antique jewelry, Murano glass from the 11th to 20th centuries and paintings of Venetian landscapes. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-7pm. Castello, 5545 (Salizada S. Lio) T: 041 5239265. info@antichisplendori.com. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
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Antichità San Samuele An antiques dealer since the Seventies, Silvana Vianello is renowned for her research and expertise in the field. PASSION TIP San Samuele specializes in religious antiques, with a particular focus on sculptures dating from the 13th through 18th centuries. Open: Mon-Sat 10am-12.30pm/3.30pm7.30pm. San Marco, 3130 (Calle delle Botteghe). T: 041 5204900. Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop). Map E4 Antichità Zanutto Continuing a longstanding family tradition, in the 1970s, Vincenzo Zanutto chose San Marco to open his workshop specializing in antique paintings, with a particular focus on Venetian artists. Also offers evaluations and certified appraisals. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-12.30pm/4.30pm-7.30pm. San Marco, 2013 (Calle delle Veste, near the Teatro La Fenice). T: 041 5235359. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio or San Marco stop). Map E5
Antichità San Samuele
Ca’ Nova Boasting over 40 years in the industry, Ca' Nova which means ‘new house’, has decorated several of Venice’s most elegant homes with its upholstery fabrics. Wallpaper, curtains, tablecloths and hand-woven sheets. Open Mon-Fri 9am12.30pm/3pm-7.30pm; Sat 9am-12.30pm. www. canovatessutitendaggi.com. San Marco, 4264/a (Campo San Luca). T: 041 5203834. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4 Franco Dell’Orto This well-known antique carpet gallery stocks a fabulous range of large Caucasian and Persian rugs, European tapestries and large-scale decorative pieces. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-12.30pm/3.30pm7.30pm; Sat 9.30am-12.30pm. www.francodellorto. com. San Marco, 2052/b (Calle delle Veste, near Teatro La Fenice). T: 041 5224736. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio or San Marco stop). Map E5
Alessandro Zoppi
SHOPPING
Le Zoie Michele Dal Bon’s atelier is infused with personality. PASSION TIP This eclectic shop showcase rare antique watches and jewelry but also specializes in collections that are unlikely to be found elsewhere, including objects inspired by ancient ‘theriaca’, a medical concoction also known as Venice treacle. Open Tues-Sat 9.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. www.lezoie. com. San Polo, 1566 (Calle dei Boteri) T: 041 2758694. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3 Libreria Antiquaria Linea d’Acqua Antique books and priceless prints focusing primarily on preservation and authentic bookbinding methods. PASSION TIP Specializes in 18th century illustrated books, maps and views of Venice and engravings by 18th century Venetian masters. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-12.30pm/3.30pm-7pm; Sat 10.30am12.30pm. www.lineadacqua.it. San Marco 3717/d (Calle della Mandola). T: 041 5224030. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4
Venezia, Le Stampe Turio
Studio Arga The owner of Studio Arga, Gabriella Tallon’s expertise in Oriental and Asian antiques makes this gallery a must-visit reference point. Open by appointment. www.argainc.com. San Marco 3659/a (Calle della Verona corner of Rio Terà dei Assassini). T: 041 2411124. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto or San Samuele stop) and line 2 (San Marco stop). Map E4
Venetia Studium
Tessitura Bevilacqua Artisanal weavers specializing in the production of exquisite, decorative fabrics for furnishings and curtains. PASSION TIP A unique place! Since 1875, the company has practiced the art of weaving on original looms that once belonged to the Venetian School of Silk. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am4pm (Sat-Sun by appointment). www.luigibevilacqua.com. Santa Croce 1320. T: 041 721566. Vaporetto line 1 (Riva de Biasio stop). Map D3 Venetia Studium The Lando family’s mission is to create and sell “modern object that speak an ancient language”. Venetia Studium not only stocks a wide range of Fortuny® lamps but also splendid silk pillows, fabrics, handbags and other accessories inspired by the ambiences loved by Marià Fortuny. Open daily 10am-7pm. www.venetiastudium.com San Marco, 2425. T: 041 5236953. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto or Santa Maria del Giglio stop). Map E5
Venezia, Le Stampe Turio At this small, refined showroom, Camilla Nicolai continues a family tradition established at the end of the 19th century by her great grandfather Osvaldo Böhm. Stocks a wide selection of frames, antiques and handcrafted Venetian objet d’art. PASSION TIP Specializes in antique decorative prints. Open 10.30am-1pm/3.30pm-7pm. www.venezialestampe.it. San Marco, 4606 (Calle Teatro Goldoni). T: 041 5234318. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4
Ca' Nova
Franco Dell'Orto
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to its association with the nearby district of STAMPALIA San Salvador LE MA Rivalto, or ‘high bank’. CAL RZ CORTE DEL AR CORTE IA DE TEATRO A dark period followed. In fact, during thisFRUTARIOLI RO LC AT AP TE I L TE time, the bridge collapsed and was damaged LL DE E O CORTE LL LUC CA several times. One such episode occurred in C. CA TRAMONTIN A U D T IO ELL L EL O N ED TA M SA M 1444 when the bridge collapsed under the GI RE A C E A R L .D PI ZA LL EL ER DE C. RI weight of the crowd which had gathered CA EB E A DE A LL SA AL IP IG OT N CA N E N Z Z E OL toUwitness the marriage procession of the GA CORTE LIA I MA N CAMPIELLO DEL DEL FORNO LLE DELLA Marquise of Ferrara. It was only in 1588 that CA SA CHIESA CORTE the Senate of the Serenissima decided to GRAGOLINA CORTE DEL announce a competition to finally rebuild a FORNO A LE VECCHIO CAMPO LIN O stone bridge. Numerous renowned architects DE GO A ARC GR AN M L MANIN NIN C. G A SSansovino, NNE TE ER ZE submitted their projects, including LAR E LE COLO E Z AT D L AT L P IC A E CA N RA NON ND RO RÀ SA ST A CA CA E TE Vignola and Palladio (who actually designed DE L LE LO LL E O L L A I E L E C R A CA LL D OL CA NI C. ND two different versions). However the daring O LO MA LL I I BA PIAZZETTA .DE GA SIN LLE C S A N DEI LEONCINI C but scenically impact-making design SA SA AS CORTE E RÀ LL TE TORRETTA submitted by the aptly named Antonio da CA RIO O CAMPO LL PE PonteAPwas chosen. His bridge consisted of a SAN GALLO C A CORTE C N single 22 meter stone arch span, supported A DELLE ANCORE BI LE AL by a broad rectangular deck carrying two L C IO R A RUT EL F LE D arcades of shops and ‘botteghe’ fronting on CAL LC three roadways. Legend has it that da Ponte A MONUMENTAL LANDMARK. Rialto that line its ‘ c alli’ and ‘campielli’ and flank both AF ET C O himself who, in exchange IE was visited by Bridge is one of the most famous and widely ZERsides of the bridge. IA R A RSatan M Z E R N for his help, asked the architect to pledge the photographed landmarks of Venice. NotINA DE F SA O RR C CA Z A soul of the first person crossing the bridge to PIS Z DEL only the undisputed icon of postcards and FROM HISTORY TO LEGEND. The history A E I L L P CA IESA him. The architect thought that he would trick LA CH in the city ‘selfies’, but also the oldest bridge of this iconic bridge dates back to the year E DRIO TA CALL Satan by having a cock cross the bridge for (until 1854 it was the only means of crossing 1000 when it was built as a pontoon bridge at the first time. However, on learning about this the Grand Canal on foot). Located in the the canal’s narrowest point. Due to increased IMO INA O PR AR ONT RAM deception, Satan vindicated himself by tricking E Cit picturesque Rialto neighbourhood, it ISisE’ a traffic was replaced with a wooden bridge T R CO CO O O AR AM da Ponte’s pregnant wife into crossing the S heady mix of shops, eateries and architecture, in 1181, known as the ‘Ponte della Moneta’ M A N ERI CI N PIS bridge. Her child was stillborn, and according SA where the days are marked by the cries of the both due to the toll that people had to pay O L to legend, its soul wandered haplessly, for vendors of its famous, bustling market andCAMPO when crossing it and because the city’s mint MO years, on the Rialto bridge, until a gondolier by the comings and goings of VenetiansSAN and MOISE’ was located at its easternmost end. In 1250, CORTE I ARZO MICHIEL finally helpedHit to ON cross over to the other side. X X II M of a traditional tourists who are eitherL Ain search its wooden piles were replaced by a mobile IAV RGA E SC CALL LI G Even the famous street market boasts a storied E ‘osteria’ or ‘bacaro’ for an ‘ombra de vin’ or a structure, a sort of drawbridge that allowed A D RIV past. In fact, historic documents testify to its ‘cicheto’, or looking to make a purchase from larger craft to sail under it, and its name was CAMPO presence way back in 1097 when it was much one of the innumerable artisanal ‘botteghe’ changed to the Rialto bridge, possibly due CA LL ED EM EZ O
S. Marco (Vallaresso)
larger than its current counterpart and sold exotic goods, oriental spices and precious fabrics. THE FAMOUS MARKET. Currently Venice’s market par excellence, it is divided into the Pescaria, where fish caught in the lagoon are sold, and the Erbaria, whose vendors sell only the freshest, seasonal fruit and vegetables. Although a visit to this market means elbowing one’s way among throngs of Venetian shoppers, the market nevertheless boasts two gems of historic and artistic interest: a loggia dating back to 1907 featuring a blaze of maritime and symbolic decorations, including a number of esoteric elements that are mixed in with the fish, lobsters and octopi sculpted on the capitals of its colonnade. More attentive visitors will also notice a marble plaque embedded in one of its red brick facades, which shows regulations set centuries ago for minimum allowable sizes for lagoon fish. FOR SHOPPING ADDICTS. However, Rialto also means shopping. While strolling through the ‘rione’s’ tiny streets or when crossing its bridge, you’ll come across several unusual shops that are imbued with the atmosphere of a bygone era. These include antique shops, artisans’ workshops, old book binding shops where books are still bound according to timehonoured tradition, and jewelry stores selling original creations made from Murano glass beads. On the other hand, those in search of an amazing experience, should head to the old post office which now houses the recently opened T Fondaco dei Tedeschi, a lavish, high-end shopping center and a magnificent feat of architecture that has been updated to brilliantly balance the old with new. The building boasts a marvelous terrace offering visitors a 360-degree view over Venice.
A HUB OF COMMERCE The Ponte di Rialto is the dividing line for the districts of San Marco and San Polo. It is lined on both sides by shops, including as many as 120 steps. Above, the Rialto Market, a one-of-a-kind place crowded with Venetians and tourists. Left, the Erbaria market for fruit and vegetables and the Pescaria (fish market).
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STROLLING THROUGH BURANO
BY STEFANO TRAINE
In addition to Murano and Torcello, this island on the Venetian Lagoon should not be missed. Loved (and widely photographed) by tourists, it is famous for its colourful houses, butter biscuits and above all, its handcrafted lace.
With a population of only three thousand inhabitants, the island’s row of houses, whose facades boast all the colours of the rainbow, are truly spectacular and make it one of the most picturesque places on earth! However, the origin of this tradition of painting the houses in bright colours was not only for aesthetic reasons. Legend has it that its fishermen, often confused by frequent banks of fog, devised a chromatic code that would help them identify their own landing piers more easily. Each colour corresponded to a family, to their house and to their address. BURANO LACE. The island is also the capital of handmade lace, a craft kept alive for centuries by the wives of fishermen waiting for their husbands to return from sea. The work is extremely exacting, with each woman specializing in a single stitch. Since there are seven stitches in total, each piece is passed from woman to woman to finish. Groups of women work diligently for days to produce items, whether large or small, of matchless beauty: trims for dresses, accessories, tablecloths, gloves, umbrellas and masks, all made from this delicate, white lace, crafted with a painstaking attention to detail that has lasted for centuries. While on the island, make sure to visit the Museum of Lace-Making to understand 32 W H E R E V E N I C E I A P R I L 2 017
why something so exquisite should not become extinct (Piazza Galuppi, 187). GASTRONOMIC TRADITION. Butter biscuits known as Buranelli (either ring or S-shaped) are famous on the island and you will be offered them wherever you go. However, this is not the only specialty that you’ll find. The island has a long-standing gastronomic tradition linked, above all, to fresh fish.
HOW TO REACH BURANO Vaporetto line number 12 runs from the Venice-Fondamente Nove stop to Burano (1 hour). If you’re not in a hurry, the Venetians recommend taking line 14 from San Zaccaria (Pietà stop). Take a look at the venue where the Film Festival is held, and admire the MOSE flood barrier, the huge hydraulic engineering project designed to protect the lagoon.
ADVERTORIAL
LA PERLA GALLERY The Bon family in Burano offers an assortment of only the finest handmade items including antique lace, high quality made-to-order tablecloths, furnishing accessories, household linens, refined silk for lingerie and clothing, christening gowns and children’s clothing (up to age 10), exclusive scarves in silk and cashmere and Venetian masks.
Via Galuppi, 287-376. T: 041 730009
TRATTORIA DA ROMANO Renowned for its simple yet delectable risottos – including its famous Risotto di Go’, an ancient regional specialty of Burano – and its typical seafood dishes, this traditional trattoria has been run by the Barbaro family for generations. Standouts includes mixed grills cooked over wood.
www.daromano.it Via Galuppi, 221. T: 041 730030.
MARTINA VIDAL The Vidal family has been making Burano lace for over four generations. Today, Martina Vidal is a luxury home linen atelier where passion, tradition, quality, and craftsmanship are combined to create unique, inimitable items made from only the finest quality fabrics.
www.martinavidal.com Via San Mauro, 309. T: 041 735523. More info: www.where-venice.com w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 33
Innovative flavours on the lagoon Headed by twice-Michelin starred chef Enrico Bartolini, and located in a historic palazzo on the Grand Canal, the GLAM Restaurant serves contemporary Italian cuisine. By Stefania Vida
T
hanks to its historic icons, its magnificent private palaces, its museums, churches and several contemporary buildings, the Grand Canal is one of the most recognizable waterways in the world. Nestling amongst these palaces is an important historic building dating back to the year 1400. Known for centuries as Palazzo Bacchini delle Palme, it was recently refurbished and re-opened as the Palazzo Venart Luxury Hotel. The latest creation of multi-award winning, starred Michelin chef Enrico Bartolini (the owner, among others of the 2-Michelin starred restaurant at MUDEC in Milan), and his first in the Serenissima, the GLAM Restaurant - co-run with Palazzo Venart’s resident chef Donato Ascani - is open to both hotel guests and demanding gourmets visiting Venice. Offering an interpretation of contemporary 34 W H E R E V E N I C E I A P R I L 2 017
Italian cuisine, Bartolini focuses on his experience and research-based use of locallysourced Venetian ingredients, re-imaged with an innovative twist. These include ‘smoked squid with myrtle and turnip tops’, ‘freshly caught croacker fish with radicchio and potatoes seasoned with black tea’ or ‘veal sweetbreads with Venetian artichoke sauce’. The experience is complemented by an extensive selection of fine wines and the venue’s spectacular setting with only 10 tables. Highlights include a cosy, welcoming veranda and a wonderful canalside garden, where guests can enjoy romantic, candle-lit dinners in summer. >> GLAM Restaurant c/o Palazzo Venart Luxury Hotel Calle Tron, 1961 (San Stae). T: 041 5233784 www.palazzovenart.com
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DINING
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM
TASTING EXPERIENCE Enoteca Al Volto Excellent wine accompanied by traditional ‘cicchetti’ and Venetian fish specialties, Enoteca Al Volto invites diners into its warm, welcoming atmosphere. €. Open daily 11.30am-3pm and 6pm-10pm. San Marco, 4081 (Calle Cavalli). T: 041 5228945. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Zaccari stop). Map E4
L’Aciugheta Its fame and fortune stems from a soft, 7 cm long “paninello” (literally, “tiny sandwich”), stuffed with butter and two “aciughete” (skinless anchovies in oil). Other must-trys include its meatballs, croutons, stuffed chili peppers and freshly baked ‘pizzette’ topped with anchovies. €. Castello, 4357 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5224292. Vaporetto line 1, or 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Osteria alla Rivetta One of Venice best-known, most traditional “cicheteria” (but also a trattoria for lunch and dinner), it is a go-to address for wine tastings. Open daily 11am-10.30pm. €. Castello, 4625. T: 041 5287302. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN CUISINE
liver, ‘granseola’, polenta with shrimp, a mixed fish fry with artichokes and seafood risotto. The restaurant offers a gluten free menu especially designed for coeliacs. Closed on Thursday. €€€. www.algiardinetto.it. Castello, 4928 (Salizada Zorzi). T: 041 5285332. Vaporetto line 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4
Sissi. A favourite haunt of artists, its charm and Venetian flavour have remained unaltered since it first opened in 1894. Standouts include its raw fish dishes and stewed cod fish with polenta. €€€. www. anticacarbonera.it. San Marco (Calle Bembo). T: 041 5225479. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4
Al Mercà
A typical trattoria, in business for over a century, it has a friendly, convivial atmosphere. This is a go-to address for foodies and connoisseurs of fine dining. Its excellent menu, enhanced by the freshest, top quality ingredients is accompanied by an astute selection of wines. Closed on Sundays and Mondays. €€€. www.antichecarampane.com. San Polo, 1911. T: 041 5240165. Vaporetto line 1 (RialtoMercato stop). Map E3
Highly sought-after, typical Venetian cuisine. Boasting an informal atmosphere, it is the perfect spot to relax with a soothing cocktail after a long day of sightseeing. €€€. Lido - Via E. Dandolo, 17. T: 041 2431663. Vaporetto 1, 2, 5.1, 5.2 (Lido stop). Map E3
Alla Madonna Established in 1954 and set in one of Venice’s most picturesque corners, the Rado family has run Alla Madonna since its inception. Its welcoming ambience, characterized by an ancient vineyard, provides the perfect backdrop for the typical regional cuisine served here. €€€. www. ristoranteallamadonna.com. San Polo, 594 (Calle della Madonna). T: 041 5223824. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E4
Antica Carbonera Homemade pasta, fresh fish and unusual decor: its interiors resemble those of the Miramar yacht that belonged to Franz Joseph II and Princess
Antiche Carampane
Antico Martini Located next to the La Fenice theatre, with its elegant dining rooms, welcoming atmosphere and attentive staff, the Antico Martini serves some of the best seafood in town. €€€. www.anticomartini. com. Campo Teatro Fenice 2007. T: 041 5224121. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).Map E5
Antico Pignolo The hand of owner Eligio Paties, is apparent in its beautifully laid tables and impeccable service. The traditional Venetian menu is accompanied by a well-
A Beccafico Arte It offers several dining spaces and a small inner courtyard. Its typical Venetian ambience, is low-key, contemporary and elegant, blending to perfection with its Sicilian-style cuisine. €€€. Closed on Tuesdays. www.abeccaficoarte.com. Cannaregio, 2289/C. T: 041 2759220. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E5
A la Vecia Cavana Set within the picturesque environment of an old restructured cavàna (a typical sloped building used to house boats), this restaurant serves delicious traditional Venetian and Italian cuisine. €€€. www. marsillifamiglia.it. Cannaregio, 4624 (Rio Terà SS. Apostoli). T: 041 5287106. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map F3
Acqua Pazza Set against the magical backdrop of Campo Sant’Angelo, it offers a great ‘al fresco’ dining experience under the stars. This small corner of Amalfi in Venice serves an array of tantalizing dishes. €€€. www.veniceacquapazza.com. San Marco, 3808. T: 041 2770688. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).Map E4
Al Colombo A meeting point since 1986 for an international clientele, its menu maintains all the hallmark features of traditional Venetian cuisine. In summer, guests can dine outside under the romantic light of Venice’s street lamps. €€€. www.alcolombo.com. San Marco, 4619. T: 041 5222627. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3
Al Giardinetto da Severino Set against the magnificent backdrop of the 15th century Palazzo Zorzi, the restaurant is listed as an ‘historical establishment of Venice’ and its dining room still features a vaulted ceiling and a frescoed firedplace. Its menu offers the best of traditional Venetian cuisine: baccalà, Venetian-style
L’Alcova's magical atmosphere Diners can enjoy traditional Venetian cuisine at the L’Alcova Restaurant with its splendid view overlooking the Grand Canal. The menu is accompanied by an extensive wine list featuring vintages from various Italian regions. The young and talented chef Damiano Bassano combines traditional Italian flavours with unique touches. Its exquisite interiors look onto Venice’s scenic waterfront and the Rialto Market. This magical location has inspired the chef who sources fresh ingredients from land and sea, offering diners dishes that are infused with his talented creativity. The ‘L’Incontro’ Bar is an ideal place to sample aperitivi and pre-and post-prandial drinks. Don’t miss the ‘Rooftop terrace’, a perfect location for cocktails and signature drinks at aperitivo time. This exclusive bar offers a variety of drinks, including traditional Spritzes, Bellinis and fruit cocktails (sourced from the nearby Rialto Market), an innovative idea based on the chef’s philosophy of natural, healthy cuisine. L’Alcova Restaurant c/o Ca’ Sagredo. Cannaregio 4198/99 (Campo Santa Sofia). T: 041 2413111. www.casagredohotel.com
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“Five star” restaurants Tradition, innovation and creativity: Where® highlights some culinary destinations to whet your appetite in several top hotels in Venice. By Stefania Vida La Cupola
Acquerello c/o San Clemente Palace Kempinski Venice. Isola di San Clemente, 1. T: 041 4750111. www.kempinski.com. The gourmet cuisine of Acquerello restaurant enhances the flavours of Italian and Venetian tradition with creative and surprising combinations of Executive Chef Vincenzo Di Tuoro. PASSION TIP Its view is as breathtaking as its food: situated next to the XII-century church of San Clemente, the restaurant, boasting a large terrace, is located next to one of the island’s private landing stages and offers an incomparable view over the lagoon and St. Mark’s Square. Open for dinner: 6.30 pm-10.30 pm. €€€. Hotel’s complimentary boat from piazza San Marco. Off Map Aman Venice Restaurant c/o Hotel Aman Venice. Palazzo Papadopoli. San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo). T: 041 2707333. www.aman.com. The exclusive restaurant at the Hotel Aman Venice offers a delightfully unique menu, thanks to several specialties created by starred Milanese chef Davide Oldani, who infuses his culinary offerings with all the vibrancy of his ‘pop cuisine’. PASSION TIP Standouts, for those who haven’t yet tasted them, include his timeless ‘cipolla caramellata’ (‘caramelized onions’) and ‘Zafferano e riso’ (Saffron and rice’). €€€. Vaporetto line 1 (San Silvestro stop). Map E4 Antinoo’s c/o Centurion Palace Venezia. Dorsoduro, 173. T: 041 34281. www.sinahotels.com. Fronting the Grand Canal, Antinoo’s Lounge &
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Restaurant is the ideal place for a romantic dinner, boasting a decidedly designer-style décor and a soft, evocative colour scheme. In addition to the à la carte menu you can also choose from a selection of typical gourmet Venetian dishes, the perfect way to soak up the flavours and atmospheres of the lagoon city. €€€. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map E5 Aromi c/o Hilton Molino Stucky. Giudecca, 810. T: 041 2723311. www.molinostuckyhilton.it. Here you can taste authentic Mediterranean cuisine, offering a choice of pasta, meat and seafood dishes, created using only the freshest ingredients based on traditional recipes. Recognized by well-known international gastronomic association “Chaine des Rotisseurs”, Aromi is the ideal spot to celebrate a special occasion. Open on a seasonal basis, the Aromi restaurant offers guests a summer terrace with a fabulous view over Venice and the Giudecca Canal. €€€. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Palanca stop). Map C6 Canova c/o Baglioni Hotel Luna. San Marco, 1243. T: 041 5289840. www.baglionihotels.com. Winner of the Fogher d’Oro and Gambero Rosso awards, the Canova boasts an intimate, elegant atmosphere. Chef Daniele Zennaro offers menus and tastings featuring the best of traditional Venetian cuisine. All dishes are made using only the freshest, high-quality ingredients, rounded off by a wine list offering a wide selection of national and international labels. Open: lunch 12.30pm-2.30pm, dinner 7.30pm-10.30pm. €€€. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop) or 2 (San Marco-Giardinetti stop). Map F5
Club del Doge c/o The Gritti Palace (www.thegrittipalace.com). Campo Santa Maria del Giglio. T: 041 794611. www.clubdeldoge.com. The restaurant welcomes guests for a romantic dinner or lunch overlooking the Grand Canal, where a welcoming ambience and authentic upscale cuisine make each culinary experience a truly special one. From April to October (weather permitting), guests can dine on its stunning panoramic terrace. Dining daytime (informal) 12pm-6pm. Dinner daily (formal) 7pm- 10pm. €€€. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio stop). Map E5 De Pisis c/o Hotel Bauer Palazzo. San Marco, 1413/d. T: 041 5207022. www.bauervenezia.com. For a romantic canal side dinner, set against the backdrop of the historic Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute. Those in search of a more intimate experience can opt to dine in its elegant dining room, furnished with classic period pieces, reminiscent of the ancient pomp and splendour of the Serenissima. €€€. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 Do Leoni c/o Hotel Londra Palace. Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni). T: 041 5200533. www.londrapalace.com. The Do Leoni restaurant, one of the temples of Venetian cuisine, pays homage to the symbols of Britain and of Venice. Chef Loris Indri combines the traditions of classic Venetian fare with more creative dishes, to titillate the palates of even the most discerning diners. The chef’s culinary art is further enhanced by its two atmospheric dining spaces: an indoor dining room whose decor includes artistic crystal and original paintings and its summer Veranda on the Riva degli Schiavoni. €€€. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4 Il Giardino Segreto c/o Boscolo Venezia. Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto, 3500 (Calle Larga Piave). T: 041 2208110. www.venezia.boscolohotels.com. Venice meeting point for lovers of fine cuisine. In an elegant and intimate atmosphere, you can enjoy international specialties and delicacies of the Italian cuisine, created by highly skilled chefs and accompanied by a wide selection of wines and champagnes. You can also taste tantalizing aperitivi. In the springtime and summer the blooming garden offers you a unique view for your lunch or for your very romantic dinner. €€€. Vaporetto line 4.2 or 5.2 (Orto stop). Map E1
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L’Alcova c/o Ca’ Sagredo Hotel. Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99. T: 041 2413111. www.casagredohotel.com. Boasting a magnificent panoramic terrace over the Grand Canal, L’Alcova is ‘the’ temple of traditional Venetian cuisine for real connoisseurs. PASSION TIP Its dining room faces directly over the Canal, in front of the historic Rialto Market, from which the restaurant sources the ingredients for its menus, accompanied by an astute selection of wines from various regions of Italy. Open: lunch 12pm2.30pm, dinner 7pm-10pm. €€€. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E3 La Caravella c/o Hotel Saturnia Calle Larga XXII Marzo, 2399. T: 041 5208901. www.restaurantlacaravella.com Opened in 1963, the La Caravella restaurant completes the services offered by the Hotel Saturnia
Terrazza Danieli
Do Leoni
with a touch of culinary excellence thanks to its fabulous Venetian cuisine updated with a contemporary, gourmet twist. Its evocative, romantic ambience conjures up the colours and furnishings of an ancient Venetian vessel. PASSION TIP In summer, guests can dine ‘al fresco’ in its picturesque, internal Venetian courtyard. Open: lunch 12pm-3pm, dinner 7pm-11pm. €€€. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5 La Cupola c/o Hotel Carlton on the Grand Canal Santa Croce, 578. T: 041 2752200. www.carltongrandcanal.com. A jewel in style both the venue and the atmosphere. The menus are inspired by the traditions of Venetian, Italian and international cuisine with genuine ingredients but with an innovative and original touch. An ideal place for your celebrations or for a simple romantic evening in Venice. Vaporetto line 1 (Riva de Biasio stop). Map C3
La Cusina c/o The Westin Europa & Regina (www.starwoodhotels.com). San Marco 2159. T: 041 2400001. www.lacusina.it. For a regenerating lunch break between visiting one sight or another or for a romantic dinner, La Cusina is the ideal place to enjoy a combination of taste and relaxation. Choose a table overlooking the Grand Canal to enjoy a panoramic view of the city’s historic architecture, while savouring the restaurant’s seasonal dishes which enhance the rich local flavours of Venice and the islands of the lagoon. Open: lunch 12pm-2.30pm, dinner 7.30pm-10pm. €€€. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5 Le Maschere c/o Starhotels Splendid Venice. San Marco Mercerie, 760. T: 041 5200755. www.starhotels.com. Loved and patronized by Venetian locals, the Le Maschere restaurant is set against the backdrop of a luminous ‘Campiello’, a typical Venetian courtyard. Here you can sample authentic Venetian cuisine, featuring both meat and fish-based dishes. A truly gourmet experience, guaranteed by its partnership with Eataly, makes Le Maschere one of the most unique and original restaurants in Venice. Open: lunch 12pm-2pm, dinner 7pm-10pm. €€€. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4 Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801. www.belmond.com. Experience Venice’s top taste sensation at this enchanting Michelin-starred restaurant. Oro reflects the romantic spirit of Venice: take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant takes its name, and try the specialties inspired by Italian tradition. Open: lunch 12.30pm-2.30pm, dinner 7.30pm-10pm. €€€. Vaporetto line 4.1 (Zitelle stop). Map F6 Terrazza Danieli c/o Hotel Danieli (www.danielihotelvenice.com). Riva degli Schiavoni, 4196. T: 041 5226480. www.terrazzadanieli.com. A trip to discover traditional flavours. Executive Chef Dario Parascandolo will treat you to an exclusive gourmet experience, with a menu featuring exquisite, locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. PASSION TIP Don’t miss the breathtaking view over the lagoon. Open: lunch 12pm-3pm, dinner 7pm-10.30pm. €€€. Vaporetto line 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
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Michelin-starred restaurants
Quadri
Are you in search of a real Venetian tasting experience? Where® brings you a round-up of Michelin-starred restaurants for true connoisseurs of taste! By Stefania Vida Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco T: 041 8521300 www.jwvenice.com Aptly named ‘Dopolavoro’, which means after work. The renowned name of Giancarlo Perbellini is behind this new restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private island - the Isola delle Rose, right out in the Venetian lagoon. After a day of business meetings or exploring Venice, enjoy delicious gourmet recipes with an individual flavour and skilful light touch - the true mark of a great chef. Off Map Il Ridotto Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo, 4509 T: 041 5208280 www.ilridotto.com Located just steps from San Marco, Il Ridotto,
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'reduced' in Italian, refers to the size of this tiny, gracious restaurant. The innovative menu employing traditional elements is revised daily, with the offerings tending toward lighter, but wonderfully tasty versions of classic dishes. A particular characteristic? It only has 9 tables. Map F4 Met Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149 T: 041 5240034 www.hotelmetropole.com Located inside the Metropole hotel, the Met Restaurant is a pioneer of a new concept targeted at promoting the Italian region. Its menu features recipes based on traditional Italian gastronomy served in two versions: either classical or upgraded with a creative twist, served in unusual but never excessive combinations. Its carefully prepared dishes are full of flavour and presented in a bright, colourful way. Map G4
Il Ridotto
DINING
Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani Giudecca, 10 T: 041 240801 www.belmond.com A jewel in the crown of Belmond Hotel Cipriani, experience Venice’s top taste sensation at this enchanting Michelin-starred restaurant. Oro reflects the romantic spirit of Venice: take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant draws its name, and try the specialities inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6 Osteria da Fiore San Polo, 2202 T: 041 721308 www.dafiore.net An Osteria only by name because this is actually an elegant, starred restaurant. Its cuisine ranges from the most authentic traditional flavours interpreted in a modern-day key (meaning that offerings tend to be lighter) to more unusual dishes invented by the chef, intended to be as close to nature as possible thanks to a great selection of highly sought-after seasonal ingredients. Ask for a wine recommendation from its excellent wine list which also features several international labels. Map E3
Quadri Piazza San Marco, 121 T: 041 5222105 www.alajmo.it A real institution of Venetian taste, starting from its decor. A triumph of stucco, Murano glass and precious fabrics housed in one of the most photographed ‘palazzi’ in the city. Its menu features intriguing, creative dishes that are beautifully presented... without forgetting its spectacular view over piazza San Marco. Map F4
Venissa Fondamenta S. Caterina, 3 (Mazzorbo) T: 041 5272281 www.venissa.it On the one hand its vegetable gardens and vineyards, and, on the other, its cuisine featuring an intoxicating meld of locally sourced ingredients. Its bucolic surroundings serve as the ideal backdrop to its authentic, typically Venetian cuisine lovingly prepared by its four chefs who only use fresh, seasonal ingredients. Off Map
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DINING
Top coffee and pastry shops Whether you’re in search of a cup of coffee, a snack or an aperitivo, Venice offers an incredible variety of bars and pastry shops, where you can stop after a long day’s sightseeing. Where® offers you a pick of the best places to take a relaxing break, from the most modern venues to more historic locations boasting a retro atmosphere for a real trip back in time By Stefania Vida www.lavena.it. Piazza San Marco, 133/134. T: 041 5224070. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).
Caffè Florian
Caffè Florian - One of Venice’s most famous cafés with its glittering neo-Baroque décor and attractive 19th century wall panels, Caffè Florian is located in the heart of St. Mark’s Square. The oldest café in Italy, Florian is steeped in history. Opened on 29 December 1720 by Floriano Francesconi, under the name of ‘Alla Venezia Trionfante’, it was simply re-christened Florian by its regulars, who included celebrities such as Casanova, Goldoni, Canaletto and Guardi. www.caffeflorian.com. Piazza San Marco, 57. T: 041 5205641. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Caffè Lavena - Since 1750, Caffè Lavena, situated in a corner at the foot of the Clock Tower in front of the Basilica, has been one of the most renowned coffee shops in Venice. Known by the Venetians of those days as the ‘Caffè dei Foresti’ (The Foreigners’ cafè), it was mainly frequented by an international clientele.
stocked cellar boasting more than 900 labels from all over the world. €€€. www.anticopignolo.com. San Marco, 451 (Calle degli Specchieri). T: 041 5228123. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Conca d’Oro Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, the Conca d’Oro was established by Sicilian brothers Giuseppe and Giovanni Costa, the founders of the first pizzeria in Northern Italy. Since that time, this Venetian institution has been turning out some of the best pizza in town. €€€. www. concadorovenice.com. San Marco, 4338 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5229293. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Da Fiore A renowned Venetian restaurant that offers topnotch cuisine in a sophisticated, elegant setting. Thirty-five years ago, Mara and Maurizio Martin 40 W H E R E V E N I C E I A P R I L 2 017
Dal Mas Located just a few minutes from the railway station, this pastry shop offers a triumph of traditional sweet treats for breakfast (in addition to croissants, try their ‘zaleti’, ‘pan dei Dogi’ and ‘sbreghettine’). Those with a sweet tooth will be delighted to know that Dal Mas is also a chocolate shop where you can find single servings of mousse, mini Sacher torte, ‘cannoli’ and brightlycoloured macarons. www.cioccolateriadalmas. com. Cannaregio, 149/a (Rio Terà Lista de Spagna), a few metres from the St. Lucia Station. T: 041 715101. Gran Caffè Quadri - Nestling in St. Mark’s Square, with its ornate stucco mouldings, 18th-century murals, huge mirrors and polished wooden furniture, Quadri is every inch the historical café. People, including habitués like Stendhal, Wagner, Proust and Woody Allen, have been drinking at this historic venue since 1638. www.alajmo.it. Piazza San Marco, 121. T: 041 5222105. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Harry’s Bar - Founded in the 1930s, this legendary bar is renowned for its Bellini cocktails and for being the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of almost every famous name to visit Venice. Today, it is still a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice, a perfect opportunity to step back in time and savour its slightly retro and incredibly fascinating atmosphere. An ideal venue at any time of day, either for lunch or dinner, but also for a truly trademark aperitivo! www.harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco,
transformed an old osteria into one of the city’s most famous restaurants. Impeccable service and superlative Venetian dishes composed of carefully selected seasonal ingredients have made Da Fiore a must-visit destination. Closed on Mondays. €€€. www.dafiore.net. San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3
Da Mario alla Fava Lying in the heart of Venice, near to the Church of Santa Maria alla Fava, from which it takes its name, this small restaurant offers a calm, relaxing atmosphere far removed from the crowds of tourists that flock to the area each year. Opened in 1960, Mario Bonavita wanted to rediscover the true Venetian style of cooking which he does with panache. €€€. www.ristorantemarioallafava.it. Calle Galiazzo, 5265 - Calle dei Stagneri, 5242. T: 041 5285147. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
1323 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Vallaresso stop). Harry’s Dolci - Harry's Dolci, a bar and restaurant, offers a peaceful view of the Canal with outdoor tables facing the Giudecca Canal. The people at the famed Harry's Dolci have established their latest enclave on this rarely visited island, far from the madding crowds of Piazza San Marco. From the quayside windows of this chic place, you can watch seagoing vessels, from yachts to lagoon barges. cipriani.com. Fondamenta S. Biagio, 773 (Giudecca). T: 041 5224844. Vaporetto linea 4.1 (Palanca stop). Pasticceria Italo Didovich - Should you find yourself in the vicinity of Campo Santa Marina (just a little off the beaten tourist track), make a beeline for this excellent pastry shop, which has stood here for the past 40 years. In addition to ‘frolle’ and rice and almond pastries, it also offers several tantalizing delicacies Castello. Campo Santa Marina. T: 041 5230017. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Pasticceria Rosa Salva - This institution has three separate shops in Venice. The first is in San MarcoCalle Fiubera: its historic headquarters, permeated by the aromas of its nearby pastry kitchen. The next is in San Marco-Mercerie: aperitivi and quick snacks that can be enjoyed in between browsing the shops lining le Mercerie, the shopping street that connects the Rialto to St. Mark’s Square. The last is in Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo. www.rosasalva.it. San Marco (Calle Fiubera), T: 041 5210544. San Marco (Mercerie), T: 041 5227934. Castello (Campo San Giovanni e Paolo), T: 041 5227949. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Rizzardini - Since 1742, the traditional sweet treats sold at this pastry shop have tempted the palates of Venetian locals and visitors alike, thanks to the high quality of its products, its atmosphere and eye-catching window displays. Must-try’s include its biscuits and, at Carnival, its utterly delectable ‘fritole’ , small fried doughnuts. San Polo, 1415. T: 041 5223835. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato or San Silvestro stop).
Gran Canal Here you can taste the typical specialties of Venetian tradition, featuring the purest expression of taste and harmony. The restaurant’s main focus is on seafood and vegetables. Don’t miss a dinner on its evocative terrace: the restaurant faces directly onto the Grand Canal offering diners an excellent opportunity to combine the pleasures of the palate with a stunning view over Venice’s lagoon. Open: lunch 12.30pm-2.30pm, dinner 7.30pm-11.30pm €€€. www. hotelmonaco.it. c/o Hotel Monaco&Gran Canal. San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Map F5
Harry’s Bar Founded in the 1930s, this legendary bar is renowned for its Bellini cocktails (originally invented here) and for being the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of almost every famous name to visit Venice. Today, It is still a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice, a
DINING
Kosher in Venice If you are already familiar with Jewish dietary laws, or want to try a new ‘kosher’ gastronomic experience, here are some great addresses that will not disappoint! By Stefania Vida
perfect opportunity to step back in time and savour its slightly retro and incredibly fascinating atmosphere. www.harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco, 1323 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto 1 (Rialto stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5
spot for a romantic dinner where you can enjoy all the typical flavours of the Venetian lagoon. €€€. www.ristorantelineadombra.com. Dorsoduro, 19. T: 041 2411881. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Zattere stop) or 1 (Salute stop). Map E5
Il Nuovo Galeon
Locanda Cipriani
Located on via Garibaldi, near the Giardini della Biennale and just behind the Arsenal, this restaurant is mainly frequented by Venetians. A typical, familyrun restaurant with an outdoor terrace (summer), its attractive interior is characterized by typical nautical décor, including the hull of a ‘bragozzo’, a typical fishing boat built by Crea, the famous Venetian rowing champion. €€€. www.ilnuovogaleon.com. Castello, 1308, T: 041 5204656. Vaporetto 5.1 or 5.2 (Giardini stop). Map H5
La Piscina Take a seat at its welcoming indoor dining room, or on the magnificent panoramic terrace overlooking the Giudecca Canal. At La Piscina you can savour traditional Venetian and Mediterranean dishes paired with wines selected from amongst the best Italian labels. Vegetarian meals are also served. €€€. www.lacalcina.com. c/o Hotel La Calcina. Dorsoduro, 780 (Zattere). T: 041 5206466. Vaporetto line 2 or 5.1 (Zattere stop). Map E6
La Porta d’Acqua
KOSHER RESTAURANT GHIMEL GARDEN The restaurant offers kosher specialties and typical fish-based dishes. The menu is accompanied by a great selection of strictly kosher wines. Halav. Lemehadrin. Open daily from 9.30am to 11pm. Serves Shabbat dinners on Friday evenings and at lunch on Saturdays strictly subject to reservation. ghimelgarden.com. Cannaregio, 2873 (Campo del Ghetto Nuovo). T: 041 8226131.
Set just steps from the Rialto Bridge, the restaurant is housed in a 15th century building and decorated with original frescoes dating back to 1700. Its cuisine conjures up the aroma of authentic Neapolitan cuisine, thanks to ingredients sourced exclusively from Campani. €€€. www.laportadacqua.it. San Polo, 1022/b (Rio Terà San Silvestro). T: 041 2412124. Vaporetto 1 (San Silvestro stop). Map E4
Lineadombra Perched on the last bridge of the most beautiful promenade in Venice, le Zattere, this is the perfect
For those who want to be close to Venice, yet feel worlds away, the Locanda Cipriani is a superb, romantic hideaway. Featuring a simple yet evocative atmosphere, it is popular among knowledgeable gourmets as a fantastic restaurant. A farmhouse from the exterior, it has been renovated with great charm, exuding an understated elegance with beautiful country antiques and fresh flowers. €€€. www. locandacipriani.com. Piazza Santa Fosca 29 (Torcello island). T: 041 730150. Vaporetto line 12 from Fondamente Nove direction Burano, then take the 9 line). Off Map
Taverna al Remer Located near to the Rialto Bridge, this romantic ‘taverna’ is distinguished by its open-brick decor, which lends it an intimate, informal touch. Although the menu features simple, traditional dishes, it often surprises diners with unusual pairings. Closed on Wednesdays. €€€. www. alremer.it. Cannaregio, 5701. T. 041 5228789. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop).
Map F3
Wildner Opened by the Fullin family in 1960, it is patronized by locals and tourists alike. Its tranquil, relaxed atmosphere is further enhanced by a spectacular view over the Basin of St. Mark’s. Its menu is mainly fish-based and serves classic Venetian specialties including ‘Baccalà Mantecato’ and ‘Sarde in Saor’. Closed on Tuesdays. €€€. c/o Pensione Wildner. Castello, 4161. T: 041 5227463. Vaporetto line 4.1 or 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4
KOSHER HOUSE GIARDINO DEI MELOGRANI Located just a 10-minute walk from the Santa Lucia Railway Station, this is the only kosher residence in Venice. Nestling in the heart of Venice’s Ghetto, it is equipped with all the necessary accoutrements for the strict observance of Kasheruth and Halacha. www.pardesrimonim.net. Cannaregio, 2873. T: 041 8226131. CAFFETTERIA DEL MUSEO EBRAICO DI VENEZIA Indulge in flavoursome break at the cafè of Venice’s famous Jewish Museum. Situated in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo, the venue is set between two of Venice’s oldest synagogues. Halav. Cannaregio, 2902 (Campo del Ghetto Nuovo). T: 340 1046858.
LE MASCHERE A truly gourmet experience, guaranteed by its partnership with Eataly, makes this restaurant one of the most original venues in Venice. See page 37
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SWEET TREATS… BUT NOT TOO MANY ONI Venetian biscuits come in all shapes and sizes and are made with a variety of different flours. The most common Arsenale Storico Navale di Venezia include dry baicoli, zaeti,Museo cookies made from cornflour, with raisins and lemon R PE GA peel, bussolai (prepared by the wives of IUSEP VIA G fishermen to sustain their husbands while at sea), pinsa, a simple biscuit made from stale bread, raisins, cocoa powder and RI VA DE I S candied fruit, and fugassa venessiana, ET TE M leavened dough sprinkled with grains of AR TI RI sugar: Venice’s traditional sweet treats have the irresistible aroma of simple, homemade biscuits prepared with only the most basic ingredients. A perfect end to a delicious meal, they can also be enjoyed as a midmorning snack. They can be accompanied by either a strong cup of coffee, or a rich, mouth watering zabaione.
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ADVERTORIAL
TRATTORIA DA REMIGIO Owned by Fabio Bianchi, Da Remigio is located in sestiere Castello, just behind St. Mark’s square. This historical venue is a favourite with Venetian foodies, but is also mentioned in international guides. It offers diners a classical menu of seasonal seafood dishes accompanied by a well-stocked wine list. The venue’s friendly, attentive service makes for an even more enjoyable dining experience.
Castello, 3416 (Salizada dei Greci). T: 041 52300089
LA TERRAZZA Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, Restaurant La Terrazza is set against an evocative backdrop with a view over the picturesque Bacino Orseolo gondola station (‘stazio’). Its culinary offer includes traditional Venetian and Italian cuisine. In the evening, La Terrazza offers its guests the unforgettable atmosphere of a traditional restaurant in Venice for a candle-lit dinner, in the romantic heart of the city. www.laterrazzavenezia.com c/o Hotel Bonvecchiati. San Marco 4488 (Calle Goldoni). T: 041 5285017
TRATTORIA DO FORNI Its owner Eligio Paties considers cooking “a culture, rather than a vocation”. He has managed to make his restaurant a sought-after destination, distinguished by its wide assortment of Venetian fare, thanks to the quality of the dishes and a genuine sense of typically Venetian hospitality. The dining spaces will remind you of the carriages of the legendary “Orient Express” and pay tribute to the history of Venice. www.doforni.it San Marco, 468 (Calle dei Specchieri). T: 041 5232148.
ANTICO PIGNOLO The “Antico Pignolo” Restaurant opened in 1930. Its site, however, actually dates back to 1200 when it was used as a blacksmith’s forge which looked after the Doge’s horses. Boasting an elegant ambience and impeccable service, this ‘iconic Venetian tavern’ is owned and run by Eligio Paties with particular attention to typical Venetian and international cuisine. Highlights include tantalizing meat and fish specialties and www.xxxxxx.org a well-stocked wine cellar. Viale xxxxx, 6 T:www.anticopignolo.com. 02 xxxxx San Marco, 451 More www.wheremilan.com (Calleinfo: dei Specchieri). T: 041 5228123. More info: www.where-venice.com w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 43
PHOTO © DE FINA
SIGHTSEEING |
MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS
Palazzo Grassi, hub of art and culture This museum hub of international repute is located between Palazzo Grassi and Punta della Dogana, and embodies the real meaning of ‘contemporary art’. By Elena Binda
"M
y greatest wish is that this contemporary art centre, comprising Palazzo Grassi and Punta della Dogana, should always remain truly contemporary. This motivation is a matter of great importance for me, and for Venice, a city that has always inspired the best of creativity,” explains 81 year-old French entrepreneur, François Pinault. A self-made tycoon, Pinault is the owner of the luxury PPR group, the 34th richest man in the world and a passionate collector of contemporary art. Ten years ago, Pinault chose Venice as a cultural hub in order to share his incredible collection with the public. His project includes a double exhibition space and a theatre, remodeled by starred Japanese architect Tadao Ando. Inaugurated respectively in 2006 and 2009, Palazzo Grassi and Punta della Dogana 44 W H E R E V E N I C E I A P R I L 2 017
are two contemporary art museums, while the ‘Teatrino’ is the third phase of Ando’s renovation of Palazzo Grassi. The Teatrino includes a 225 seat auditorium and is used for conferences, concerts and film screenings. Both these exhibition spaces were designed to house the works of the Pinault collection. The museum was conceived to interact continuously with the city’s extraordinary cultural heritage, the work of artists and the international art world. In addition to the above, the mission of Palazzo Grassi and Punta della Dogana is to host works conceived especially for its spaces, and to promote the work of young, emerging talent. This artistic and cultural project launched by Monsieur Pinault also includes an active policy involving the loan and commission of works that contribute to the dynamism of its offerings.
>>From 9 April, for the first time ever, Palazzo Grassi and Punta della Dogana will join forces to present a fascinating exhibition focusing on a single artist. The Damien Hirst Venice exhibition titled ‘Treasures from the Wreck of the Unbelievable’ features the British artist’s latest body of never-before exhibited works, a project marking the culmination of his tenyear relationship with the Pinault Foundation. >> PALAZZO GRASSI Campo San Samuele 3231 PUNTA DELLA DOGANA Dorsoduro 2 TEATRINO DI PALAZZO GRASSI San Marco 3260 (next to Palazzo Grassi) www.palazzograssi.it
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM
ATTRACTIONS & MONUMENTS
boat cruises visit www.canalgrande.it, or ask your concierge.
Basilica del Redentore Based on a project by the famous architect Andrea Palladio, the Basilica was built in 1577 on the island of Giudecca. It contains works by Tintoretto, Veronese and other important Venetian artists. It was built to celebrate the deliverance from the Black Death, which killed one third of the population. To commemorate the end of the plague, a solemn festival is still held at the church on the third Sunday of July. www.chorusvenezia.org. Campo Redentore (Giudecca). T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 41 and 2 (Redentore stop). Map E6
This is one of the largest churches in Venice, and, according to popular belief, is named after a statue of the Virgin Mary which supposedly had miraculous powers. It contains a significant number of artworks, mostly by Tintoretto and Bellini, but also by Titian and Palma the Younger. The complex also houses the smaller church of San Marziale, dating back to before the year 1000. This church can only be visited by booking. Open Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 12pm-5pm. www. madonnadellorto.org. Cannaregio, 3512. T: 041 719933. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1, 5.2, A (Orto stop). Map E2
Basilica di San Marco
Chiesa and Scuola Grande di San Rocco
This is the most important Catholic church in the city, and one of the most important monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. The famous winged lion, a symbol of the city and of the ancient ‘Venetian Republic’ is depicted on its pediment. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. You might have to queue for a time to get inside, but your wait will be well worthwhile. Although admission is free, you will have to pay to see several specific sights. In order not to miss your visit, be sure to inform yourself about the opening hours, as they are often subject to change. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-4pm; Sun (and Public Holidays) 2pm-4pm. www.basilicasanmarco.it. San Marco, 328. T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4
A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures, including an impressive number of works by Tintoretto as well those by Tiepolo and Giorgione. Opening hours subject to change www.scuolagrandesanrocco.org. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4
Campanile di San Marco (Bell Tower) This 98.6 metre bell tower is affectionately known to the Venetians as ‘el paron de casa’ (the master of the house) because it dominates the city, observing everything that lies below it. Resting lightly on the exquisite Loggetta del Sansovino, it has a particularly recognizable shape and a rich history. The original medieval bell tower was modified several times, and rebuilt entirely when it unexpectedly collapsed in 1902. It is worth going up to the tower, to enjoy a breathtaking view over the city. Although admission is not free, it is often included in joint tickets. Opening times are subject to change. T: 041 5225205. Vaporetto lines 1,2 (San Marco stop). Map F4
Canal Grande (Grand Canal) Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the main waterway of Venice and much more. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels, and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. For centuries, the Canal has witnessed lavish parties and workshop events, religious processions, capital executions, historical regattas and epidemics. Those visiting Venice should dedicate a few hours to a cruise on the Canal, not only for the pleasure of this experience, but because it offers several of the best panoramic views of Venetian palaces. It is is almost impossible to list all of them, but for more information you can visit the www. canalgrandevenezia.it website. For excursions and
Chiesa della Madonna dell’Orto
Ghetto di Venezia Although documentation chronicles the presence of a Jewish community in Venice from before the year 1000, it was only during the 6th century, due to political unrest in Europe and a significant increase in non-Christian immigrants that, for the first time, the Venetian Senate, issued a decree stating that the Jewish population should move to a specific part of the city, where they could be better ‘controlled’. Thus Jews were forced to move to this, then, remote northwestern corner of Venice, to an abandoned site of a 14thcentury foundry (‘ghetto’ is old Venetian dialect for "foundry," a word that would soon be used throughout Europe and the world to depict an area where isolated minority groups lived. The Venetian Ghetto nevertheless became a thriving, vibrant district. In 1797, when Napoleon rolled into town, the ghetto was disbanded as an institution, and Jews were free to move elsewhere. Today it is still the center of Venice's ever-diminishing community of Jewish families. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1 (Ponte Guglie stop). Map D2
Palazzo Ca’ Vendramin Calergi (Casinò di Venezia) Overlooking the Grand Canal, this building houses the oldest casino in the world. An ageold destination, for aristocratic travelers from both East and West, Venice was the first city in the world to open a gaming house way back in 1683. Today its old-world ambience continues to play host to several of the world’s most classical games. The casino is open to everyone aged 18 and over and proper attire is required. www.casinovenezia.it. Cannaregio, 2040 (Calle Colombina). Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marcuola stop). Map E3
Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square) Known throughout the world, this square is the heart of Venice and its most symbolic landmark. It consists of a central, trapezoid-shaped unit integrated with other areas. Measuring 170 metres in length, it faces directly onto the water
and is surrounded by several magnificent stately buildings. Its incalculable scenic beauty makes it one of the most widely-photographed places in the world. The best thing to do here is to look around and exult, but don’t forget that the square has a number of specific landmark sites, whose interiors can also be visited: the Basilica of San Marco (see listing), the Bell Tower (see listing), Palazzo Ducale (see Museums listings), the Clock Tower (see listing) and some 18th century cafés, the Florian and the Quadri, to mention the bestknown... Vaporetto lines, 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4
Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs) The Bridge of Sighs is a Baroque bridge that, by crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from which its name derives are not those of lovers, but those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. Open daily 8.30am7pm. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 31024 (piazza San Marco). T:041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1,2, (San Marco stop). Map F4
Ponte di Rialto (Rialto Bridge) This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Witness to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it (shutterbugs permitting), but even more spectacular when seen from the water, perhaps aboard a gondola. Originally built during medieval times as a pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto Market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. Unfortunately, it is not accessible to
VENICE BIENNALE
EDITOR'S TIP
For more than a century, the Venice Biennale has been one of the most prestigious cultural institutions in the world. Renowned for its avant-garde approach to research and the promotion of new artistic trends, it organizes important international exhibitions related to art and architecture (it is held bi-annually in odd-numbered years) at its Giardini and Arsenale sites, and is considered the world’s number one platform for its International Exhibition of Cinematographic Art (annual), its Music and Theatre Festival and its more recent Dance Festival. In addition to its traditional appointments, it has added new, permanent activities over time. Costs, venues and opening hours vary according to the activity underway. Voucher Venezia Unica holders are eligible for discounts. Main sites: Ca’ Giustinian, San Marco 1364/a; Arsenale, Calle della Tana, 2169/S; Giardini della Biennale, Castello (between Riva degli Schiavoni and Sant’Elena). www.labiennale.org
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SIGHTSEEING |
MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS
everyone; between upward and downward slopes, it includes as many as 120 steps. San Polo, 30125 (access from Ruga dei Oresi or from Salizada Pio X). Vaporetto linea 1,2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
San Giorgio Maggiore Boasting a monastery and an adjoining museum (see Museum listings), the church of San Giorgio Maggiore sits on the little island of San Giorgio Maggiore across from St. Mark's square. One of the masterpieces of Andrea Palladio, the church, and the entire complex, which holds a number of marvelous surprises including a maze, is worth visiting. This small island, that is a part of the panorama that can be enjoyed from St. Mark's square, is separated from the Giudecca by the lagoon island of La Grazia. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 5227827. Vaporetto line 2 (San Giorgio stop). Map G5
Santa Maria della Salute (Church of the Virgin Mary of Good Health) Generally referred to as “La Salute,” this crown jewel of 17th-century baroque architecture proudly stands at a commercially and aesthetically important point, almost directly opposite the Piazza San Marco, where the Grand Canal empties into the lagoon. Designed by Longhena, whose work was influenced by Palladio, it was constructed to honor the Virgin Mary for delivering Venice from the plague of 1630. On 21 November each year, a popular religious celebration, marking the official end of the Black Death, is held here. The church is also famous for its organ concerts. Open daily 9am-12noon/3pm5.30pm. www.basilicasalutevenezia.it. Fondamenta Salute, 30123. T: 041 2743911. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map E5
Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari Known by the Venetians simply as ‘i Frari’, this landmark features 17 monumental altars and is the largest church in the city. This medieval church in Gothic-Venetian style, houses, in addition to
two paintings by Titian, the tombs and funerary monuments of numerous famous people, including Titian, Monteverdi and Canova. chorusvenezia.org. Campo dei Frari. T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 1, 2, N (San Tomà stop). Map D4
most famous member, Giambattista Tiepolo. Open daily 11am-5pm. www.scuolagrandecarmini.it. Dorsoduro, 2616 (Campo dei Carmini, Campo Santa Margherita). T: 041 5289420. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). Map C5
Santi Giovanni e Paolo
Teatro La Fenice
One of the city’s most important examples of medieval architecture, Santi Giovanni e Paolo is considered the Pantheon of Venice because all the Venetian doges, starting from the 13th century, are buried here, together with numerous other notable personages. www.basilicasantigiovanniepaolo.it. Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo (Please note: this site might be marked in Venetian dialect as ‘san ZaniPolo’ on the city’s maps). T: 041 5235913. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Fondamente Nove stop, Ospedale Civile stop). Map F3
Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only strongly associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it is also a stunning feat of architecture. teatrolafenice. it. Ticket office T: 041 2424. San Marco, 1965 (Campo San Fantin). Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E4
Scala Contarini del Bovolo
The islands
Palazzo Contarini is an exquisite, late Gothic building. However, what makes it such a popular attraction today, was the addition, by its architects, in 1499, of an amazing, external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. Open Tues-Sun: 10am1.30pm/2pm-6pm. www.scalacontarinidelbovolo. com. c/o Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo. San Marco, 4299 (Campo Manin, Rio San Luca). T: 041 3096605. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map E4
Although the whole of Venice lies on an archipelago, an ‘excursion to the islands’ generally means a half-day cruise on a boat to visit the islands of Murano, Torcello and Burano, three charming, small islands, rich in history and tradition. Murano is famous throughout the world for its hand-blown glass (artisanal workshops still display glassmakers at work). Torcello, birthplace of the lagoon, once a thriving town with 8,000 inhabitants, is today a semirural island with only 17 permanent residents and two medieval churches that speak poignantly of past glories, and Burano, one of the most photographed sights in the world, thanks to colourful houses reflected in its canals. Burano is also famous for its artisanal lace work and a particular kind of biscuit, which also resembles lace. Find out more and buy tickets for your trip to these magical destinations. Visitors love these islands, and there may be a risk of not finding a seat on the boat. See Map page 62.
Scuola Grande dei Carmini Housed in a 16th century palazzo, it is the seat of an ancient brotherhood and all its original furnishing and a number of priceless oil paintings have been preserved intact. The drama builds when entering the Sala del Capitolo, whose ceiling features nine exceptional canvases painted by the brotherhood’s
MUSEUMS & EXHIBITION SITES Ca’ Pesaro-International Gallery of Modern Art Hosts important 19th and 20th century collections of paintings and sculptures, including masterpieces by Klimt and Chagall as well as noteworthy oeuvres by the likes of Kandinsky, Klee, Matisse and Moore. Other highlights include a rich selection of works by Italian artists and an important selection of graphics. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10. www. capesaro.visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 2076. Vaporetto line 2 (San Stae stop). Map E3
Ca’ Rezzonico-Museum of Eighteenth Century Venetian Art
PALAZZO CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO This late Gothic building, formerly home to the Contarini family, eight of whose members were Doges of the Republic of Venice, is renowned for its famous cylindrical tower and spiral staircase, named ‘del Bovolo’, the Venetian word for snail: one of the city’s foremost architectural gems. www.scalacontarinidelbovolo.com 46 W H E R E V E N I C E I A P R I L 2 017
The large staircase of this magnificent palazzo leads to several elegant rooms housing paintings, sculptures and 18th century furnishings (first floor): the ‘Portego dei dipinti’ featuring canvases by Canaletto, a room dedicated to Longhi and the frescoes painted by Giandomenico Tiepolo detached from the walls of Villa Zianigo (second floor); the rooms of the Farmacia Ai do San Marchi and the exquisite Pinacoteca Egidio Martini (third floor). Alternately, the Browning Mezzanine houses the works of the Mestrovich Collection, including works by artists like Tintoretto and Bonifacio de' Pitati. Closed on Tues, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10. www.carezzonico.visitmuve. it. Dorsoduro 3136 (Fondamenta Rezzonico). T:
MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS
041 2410100. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). Map D5
Casa Museo Andrich-Modern Art Gallery and Historic Garden
| SIGHTSEEING
The “Scuole Grandi”
The house of the two artists, Clementina and Lucio Andrich, testifies to the artistic vibrancy of Venice between the 1950s and the 1980s. Silks, tapestries, glass, sculptures, paintings, engravings, mosaics and furniture are displayed on a rotational basis and can be admired during a guided tour. Set in an 11,000 square meter orchard-garden, inhabited by herons and flamingoes from March to September, Casa Andrich overlooks the beautiful lagoon landscape of Torcello. Open daily. Guided tours in Italian, English and French are conducted at 10am11am; 2.30pm-3.30pm; 4.30pm-5.30pm. Visits must be booked online (www.veneziaunica.it). Ticket pricing varies based on the type of visit chosen. www.museoandrich.it. Torcello island, 4/L. T: 347 2391861. Vaporetto line 12. Off Map
Fondazione Cini-San Giorgio Maggiore Set against the magnificent backdrop of the Basin of St Mark, the Foundation was established in 1951 by Count Vittorio Cini to restore the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore and to create an international centre of cultural activities. The Foundation is housed in the monumental complex of the former Benedictine Monastery of San Giorgio Maggiore, a place of inestimable architectural and artistic prestige, thanks to works by several of Italy’s greatest 16th and 17th century masters. Enlarged in the 16th century by Andrea Palladio, who also designed its refectory, the church of San Giorgio Maggiore and the Cloister of Cypresses, in addition to numerous other treasures, the complex hosts an impressive collection of paintings by Jacopo Tintoretto, as well as several 16th and 17th century works of arts. Guided tours in Italian, English and French on Saturdays and Sundays. For information and booking T: 041 2201215. Full price ticket €10. www.cini.it. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 2710280. Vaporetto line 2 (Isola di San Giorgio stop). Map G6
Gallerie dell'Accademia di Venezia
VENETIAN MUSEUM HUB Following a Napoleonic decree, the Gallerie dell'Accademia were instituted as an educational adjunct to the Academy of Fine Arts. They host the most important collection of Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo, and works by several important landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The monumental complex hosting these works occupies the ancient church of Santa Maria della Carità, the Scuola Grande della Carità and the Canonici Lateranensi convent complex designed by Andrea Palladio in 1561. Open Mon 8.15am-2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Full ticket price: €9. Ticket pricing may vary during temporary exhibitions. www. gallerieaccademia.it. Dorsoduro 1050 (Campo della Carità). T: 041 5222247. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop). Map D5
Galleria Giorgio Franchetti alla Ca' d'Oro The Ca' d'Oro, an ancient 15th century Patrician dwelling, hosts the art collections that were donated to the State by Baron Giorgio Franchetti. These include period furnishing, tapestries,
Scuola di San Rocco
Among Venice’s countless art treasures, buildings known as ‘Scuole’ or ‘Scuole Grandi’ might be mentioned as unmissable attractions. It goes without saying that these are not schools in the accepted sense of the word, but one of the innumerable distinctive features of this unique city. During the ancient Republic of Venice, from the 13th century onwards, the word ‘Scuola’ was, in fact, used to describe a brotherhood, or rather an association of lay members who met to provide assistance to poor people, widows, orphans, old and sick people. The ‘Scuole’ were divided into Devotional Schools (or Scuole Grandi) which gathered for religious purposes in the name of a patron saint, Schools of Arts and Crafts and Schools of Foreign Communities (Scuole Piccole or Scuolette). Until the fall of the Republic, they represented a real kind of welfare system, initially destined for members but later extended to the entire population. The ‘Scuole Grandi’ had countless means at their disposal, a part of which they invested to embellish their own headquarters with paintings by well-known artists including Tintoretto, Jacopo Palma il Giovane or Giambattista Tiepolo. As time passed, the most important Schools built palaces for their residents designed by famous architects, and adorned them with
paintings by the best artists of the era. After the fall of the Republic of Venice in 1797, the Schools were suppressed by a Napoleonic edict (1807) and within the space of a short time their assets ended up at antique markets and collections throughout the world. Several of the best preserved Schools were reconstituted and transformed into museums that can now be visited by the public. These include the Great Schools of San Giovanni Evangelista (www. scuolasangiovanni.it), the Scuola di San Rocco (www.scuolagrandesanrocco. it) and the Scuola dei Carmini (www. scuolagrandecarmini.it). Others, including the Scuole Grandi di San Teodoro (www. scuolagrandesanteodoro.it), the Scuola di San Marco (the seat of the city’s hospital), www.scuolagrandesanmarco.it), and the Scuola di Santa Maria Giustizia or San Fantin, currently home to Venice’s Faculty of Science, Literature and Arts (www. ateneoveneto.org), were converted into public exhibition spaces and institutions. The Scuola Dalmata di San Giorgio degli Schiavoni and the Scuola di San Nicolò dei Greci (currently Venice’s Museum of Icons), are ‘small’ schools whose artistic treasures are well worth a visit. Lastly, an interesting fact: the facade of the Scuola Grande di Santa Maria della Carità, suppressed in 1806, is now the entrance to the magnificent Accademia Galleries.
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MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS
paintings, sculptures and bronzes. Its current collection features a mixture of Renaissance works from the Lombard, Venetian, Reggio Emilia and Flemish schools, as well as masterpieces like Andrea Mantegna’s renowned St. Sebastian. An interesting collection of ceramic relics from the Venetian lagoon are housed at Ca' Duodo, the building lying adjacent to Ca’ d’Oro. Open Mon 8.15am-2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Full ticket price: €6. Ticket pricing may vary during temporary exhibitions. www.cadoro.org. Cannaregio, 3932 (Strada Nuova). T: 041 5200345. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E3
Museo Archeologico Nazionale Housed with the Correr Museum and the Marciana Library in the rooms of the Procuratie Nuove in St. Mark’s Square, the museum boasts an extraordinary collection of Greek and Roman sculptures as well as a noteworthy selection of ancient coins, gems and cameos, bronze artifacts and pottery. Other highlights include Egyptian and Assyrian-Babylonian antiques and priceless finds of late antiquity. Open daily. www. polomuseale.venezia.beniculturali.it. Entrance and ticket office: Correr Museum, San Marco 52 (piazzetta San Marco). T: 041 2967663. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 - 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F5
Museo Correr The museum is located in the old Royal Palace in St. Mark’s Square and includes the Napoleonic Wing and the Procuratie Nuove. Built to house Teodoro Correr’s collection, it features several exhibition spaces dedicated to the art and history of Venice. These include the neo-classical rooms housing sculptures by Antonio Canova, historic collections describing the changing cityscape of Venice and, finally, the pinacoteca, boasting important masterpieces of Venetian art from its origins to the 16th century. Open daily. www. correr.visitmuve.it. San Marco 52 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2405211. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso stop or, San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 - 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Museo d'Arte Orientale-Ca’ Pesaro The museum, located on the top floor of the Galleria Internazionale d’Arte Moderna, is housed in an ancient building on the Grand Canal designed by Baldassare Longhena for the Pesaro family. Here, you will find one of the most important collections in the world of Japanese art from the Edo period: more than 30,000 pieces including swords and daggers, Japanese armour, delicate lacquer ware palanquin and priceless porcelain. Other highlights include extensive sections dedicated to Chinese and Indonesian art. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket (integrated with the International Gallery of Modern Art) €10. www.arteorientale.org. Santa Croce, 2076.T: 041 5241173. Vaporetto line 2 (San Stae stop). Map E3
Museo del Merletto (Lace Museum) Located in Burano, the museum is housed in a small building, formerly home to Venice’s famous Lace School. Boasting more than two-hundred rare, priceless pieces, the exhibition chronicles the evolution of the art of lace-making in Venice from the 16th to 20th centuries. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €5. Joint ticket for the Glass Museum and the Lace Museum €12. www.museomerletto.visitmuve.it. Piazza Galuppi 187, Burano. T: 041 730034. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2, 5.2 (Fondamenta Nove stop), and then line 12 (Burano stop). Off Map
Museo del Vetro (Glass Museum) Housed in the aristocratic palazzo Giustinian, on the island of Murano, the collections exhibited at the museum are arranged in chronological order: in addition to the archaeological section featuring Roman remains from the 1st and 2nd centuries A.D., you can also find an extensive range of historical objet d’art made from Murano glass, including important pieces produced between the 15th and 20th centuries. Open daily. Full price ticket €10. Joint ticket for the Glass Museum + Lace Museum €12. www.museovetro.visitmuve.it. Fondamenta Giustinian, 8. Murano. T: 041 5274718. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2 (Museo Murano stop). Off Map
Museo di San Marco
This cast of the statue of Paris (1807) by Antonio Canova is part of an itinerary dedicated to the renowned sculptor whose works are displayed in the five new rooms of the Procuratie Nuove of the CORRER MUSEUM.
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The itinerary that you’ll follow inside the museum, will take you from the historic area above the atrium-narthex of the Basilica and the former Banqueting Hall of the Doges, through the three extensive themes that are a part of the heritage of St. Mark’s Basilica: Mosaics, Textiles, the Quadriga and the Antico. Particularly noteworthy, amongst its relics and artworks, are the famous gilded bronze horses of St. Marks and the Basilica’s ancient fragments of mosaics, preserved in
special containers known as ‘cassine’. The tour of the museum takes visitors through various areas of the Basilica, we therefore suggest wearing attire that is respectful of the religious nature of the Basilica. Open daily 9.45am-4.45pm. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €5. www.museosanmarco.it. San Marco 328 (Procuratoria di San Marco). T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto linee 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 o 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Museo delle Icone The museum is owned by the Hellenic Institute of Byzantine and Post-Byzantine Studies of Venice and is located on the first floor of the Confraternita dei Greci (Scoletta di San Nicolò, designed by Baldassare Longhena in the 17th century). It houses approximately 80 Byzantine and post-Byzantine icons dating from the 14th through 18th centuries, as well as illuminated codes, sacred garments embroidered in gold and small artisanal artifacts of considerable historic and artistic value. Open daily from 9am-5pm. www.istitutoellenico.org/museo. Castello 3412 (Campo dei Greci). T: 041 5226581. Vaporetto lines 1, 2, 4.1, 5.1, 14, 15, 19, 20 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4
Museo di Storia Naturale Housed in the Palazzo del Fondaco dei Turchi on the Grand Canal, its original, contemporary layout is divided into three sections each of which is, in actual fact, a museum within a museum. Its collection includes more than two million pieces: zoological and paleontological collections, ancient herbariums, plant and fish fossils, a collection of minerals, a wunderkammer (cabinet of curiosities) housing more than 2,000 examples of different animal parts and a Venetian fish tank. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €8. www.msn.visitmuve.it. Santa Croce, 1730 (Fondaco dei Turchi). T: 041 2750206. Vaporetto line 1 (San Stae stop). Map D3
Museo Ebraico di Venezia
JEWISH MUSEUM This a ‘dispersed museum’; a highly unusual urban architectural museum complex that includes the museum itself, the Ghetto, synagogues and an ancient cemetery. It contains a small but precious collection of artifacts related to the long history of the Jews in Venice. Thanks to guided tours (in Italian and English), you can visit three of the area’s five historic synagogues, located between the Ghetto Vecchio (Old Ghetto) and the Ghetto Nuovo (New Ghetto), and the Old Cemetery (16th-18th century) in San Nicolò del Lido. Finally, to commemorate the tragedy of the Second World War, there is a bronze relief Holocaust Memorial in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo. Jewish Museum: open 10am7pm (from 1 June to 30 September); 10am-5.30pm (from 1 October to 31 May). Guided tours of the Museum + synagogues: hourly from 10.30am to 4.30pm (1 October-31 May) or until 5.30pm (1 June-30 September). Museum, synagogues and cemetery closed on Saturdays and on Jewish holidays, 25 December, 1 January, 1 May. Full price ticket €4; Jewish Museum + guided tour of the synagogues : full price ticket €10. www. museoebraico.it. Cannaregio 2902\b. T: 041 71535. Vaporetto lines 1-2 (San Marcuola-Ghetto stop), lines 41-42-51-52 (Ponte delle Guglie-Ghetto stop). Map D2
MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS
Museo Querini Stampalia The Querini Stampalia house-museum is an opulent patrician dwelling located on the ‘piano nobile’ of a 16th century palazzo, and features several unusual architectural elements designed by Carlo Scarpa, Valeriano Pastor and Mario Botta. Works displayed include paintings by Giovanni Bellini, Jacopo Palma the Elder and the Younger, Bernardo Strozzi, Marco and Sebastiano Ricci, Giambattista Tiepolo, Pietro Longhi and Gabriel Bella. In addition to the museum, the complex also has a library and a space dedicated to contemporary art exhibitions. Closed on Mondays. Museum and Display Areas full ticket price €10; Scarpa Area full ticket price €8. www. querinistampalia.it. Castello, 5252 (Santa Maria Formosa). T: 041 2711411. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (Rialto stop), lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1, 5.2, 7, 20 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Museo Storico Navale della Marina Militare The Historic Naval Museum, the most important of its kind in Italy, is owned by the Italian Navy and is devoted to Venice’s seafaring history. In addition to the main building, whose exhibition spaces span 42 rooms and five floors, the ‘Padiglione delle Navi’ (Ships Pavilion), located in the Arsenale’s old ‘Oars Workshop’, is also a part of the museum. Built in the mid-16th century as a workshop to build and store oars, since 1980 it has housed an impressive collection of historical vessels, and is an extension of the main museum’s headquarters. > Venice’s Historic Naval Museum (Castello 2148, Riva San Biasio. T: 041 2441399) is currently closed for renovation but the Padiglione delle Navi, located just steps from the Naval Museum, is open for public viewing, > Padiglione delle Navi: from 1 June to 31 October: open daily, 8.45am-5pm (last admission 4.30pm); from 1 November to 31 May: Mon-Thurs 8.45am-1.30pm, Fri 8.45am-5pm (last admission 4.30pm), Sat-Sun and public holidays 10am-5pm.
Full ticket price €5. www.marina.difesa.it. Castello 2162/c (Rio della Tana). T: 041 2711411. Vaporetto line 1, 4.1, 4.2 (Arsenale stop). Map H5
Museo Vedova-Magazzino del Sale The objective of the Emilio and Annabianca Vedova Foundation is to promote the art and work of artist Emilio Vedova with a series of cultural initiatives (research, exhibitions, educational activities, conventions, study grants and awards). Its two permanent exhibition spaces, used to showcase works by the latter, also host temporary exhibitions and events on a rotational basis: the Magazzino del Sale 266 – based on a project by Renzo Piano – and the former Studio Vedova. Closed on Tuesdays, 25 December. Full price ticket €8; www.fondazionevedova.org. Magazzino del Sale Dorsoduro 266 (Zattere). Spazio Vedova –Ticket Office and Bookshop Dorsoduro 50 (Zattere). T: 041 2410833. Vaporetto line 1 (Accademia stop or Salute stop), 2 (Accademia stop), 5.1/5.2 (Spirito Santo stop), 6 (Zattere stop). Map E6
Palazzo Cini-La Galleria Situated in the Venetian 'Museums Mile', between the Accademia, the Peggy Guggenheim collection and the Punta della Dogana, the 16th century Palazzo Cini in San Vio is the house-museum of Count Vittorio Cini, and houses some remarkable art collections: 14th-15th century paintings from Tuscany and Ferraro (Piero della Francesca, Filippo Lippi, Dosso Dossi and Cosmè Tura), period furniture, silverware, ivories and ceramics. Closed on Tuesdays. Full price ticket €10. www. palazzocini.it. Dorsoduro 864 (San Vio). T: 041 2710217. Vaporetto Lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop), lines 2, 4, 5, 6 (Zattere stop). Map E5
Palazzo Ducale A landmark attraction, a masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, Venice’s Ducal Palace features a number of different and intricate architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence
| SIGHTSEEING
and government centre of the Doges, it not only houses temporary exhibitions but can also be visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. The public entrance to the Doge’s Palace is through the ‘Porta del Frumento’ which leads to the spacious council rooms and then onwards to the exquisite rooms of the Doge’s Apartment. Other highlights on this route include the prisons and loggias overlooking the square and the lagoon. Open daily. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 1 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti), 5.1 or 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Palazzo Fortuny Mariano Fortuny (Granada 1871 - Venice 1949) transformed Palazzo Pesaro degli Orfei into his own personal atelier for photography, set-design, textile creations and paintings. The museum’s collections boasts an extensive collection of pieces and materials commissioned for important projects: paintings, lighting systems, photography and ornate garments. The building is now used to host art exhibitions. The museum is open only during temporary exhibitions. Open 10am-6pm. Closed on Tuesdays. Please note that prices vary depending on the exhibition being shown. www. fortuny.visitmuve.it. San Marco 3958 (Campo San Benedeto). T: 041 5200995. Vaporetto line 1 (Sant’Angelo stop), 2 (San Samuele stop). Map E4
Palazzo Grassi Museo Punta della Dogana Overlooking the Grand Canal and recently restored by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, Venice’s 18th century Palazzo Grassi and the former harbour of Punta della Dogana are two contemporary art museums funded by the François Pinault Foundation. They host important collective or monographic exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault Collection, one of the world’s largest collections of contemporary art. Palazzo Grassi’s ‘Teatrino’, an adjunct to
MUSEUM PASS
11 MUSEUMS, 1 TICKET The Museum Pass is a cumulative ticket that offers access to all the permanent collections of Venice’s civic and affiliated museums. It is valid for 6 months and allows one entry per museum site. Full price ticket €24 > This ticket is valid for: Palazzo Ducale, Museo Correr, Museo Archeologico Nazionale, Sale Monumentali della Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana; Ca’ Rezzonico-Museo del Settecento Veneziano; Museo di Palazzo Mocenigo e Centro Studi di Storia del Tessuto e del Costume; Casa di Carlo Goldoni and Biblioteca di Studi Teatrali; Ca’ Pesaro-Galleria Internazionale d’Arte Moderna + Museo d’Arte Orientale; Museo del Vetro; Museo del Merletto; Museo di Storia Naturale. Info & Reservations: www.visitmuve.it Call center 848 082000. From abroad +39 041 42730892.
Museo Correr
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Library, is a museum space that is used to host exhibitions and events. Designed mainly by Jacopo Sansovino, standouts include a Stairway of Honour, a Vestibule and a Reading Room embellished with 16th century decorations. Together with Palazzo della Zecca, where the reading rooms and offices are located, it is still a part of the monumental headquarters of the Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana which in addition to rare books also hosts priceless, antique manuscripts. Open daily. www.marciana.venezia. sbn.it. Entrance and Ticket Office: Museo Correr, San Marco 52 (piazzetta San Marco). T: 041 2407211. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso stop, San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1, 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F5
Scuola Grande di San Giovanni Evangelista
GALLERIE DELL’ACCADEMIA This Venetian museum hub hosts the most important collection of Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Don’t miss the outstanding works by Bellini, Giorgione, Titian, Tintoretto, Tiepolo and Canaletto. www.gallerieaccademia.it
the exhibition spaces, offers an action packed calendar of conferences, concerts and screenings of an international scope. Open daily 10am7pm. Closed on Tuesdays, 25 December. Full price ticket €18 (Punta della Dogana+Palazzo Grassi). www. palazzograssi.it. T: 041 2001057. Palazzo Grassi San Marco 3231 (Campo San Samuele). Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop), 1 (Sant’Angelo stop). Map D4 • Museo Punta della Dogana Dorsoduro 2. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map F5
Palazzo Grimani Originally the home of the Grimani family, it was enlarged in the 16th century and decorated with frescoes, marbles and stuccoes that made it one of Venice’s most unique buildings in terms of its architecture, history and cultural and artistic offerings. Opened to the public in 2008 following its in-depth restoration, it is now a museum hosting a few select works, typifying the style of 16th century collections. Open Mon 8.15am2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Closed 1 January, 1 May, 25 December. Full ticket price: €4. Ticket pricing may vary during temporary exhibitions. www.palazzogrimani.org. Castello, 4858. Info and bookings T: 041 5200345. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (Rialto stop), line 14, 5.1, 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Palazzo Mocenigo - Centro Studi di Storia del Tessuto e del Costume Formerly a patrician residence, in 1985 it became the Study Centre of the History of Fabrics and Costumes. Its exhibition spaces explore various aspects of the lives and activities of Venetian aristocrats between the 17th and 18th centuries. 50 W H E R E V E N I C E I A P R I L 2 017
The exhibits on display include opulent garments and olden-day accessories, with a section dedicated to perfume. The palazzo’s furnishings and paintings have been integrated with a number of works originating from the warehouses of Venice’s civic museums. PASSION TIP Don’t miss the itineraries dedicated to Perfume and the “Perfume Composition Courses” (2 hours, 80/100 euro per participant, including Kit and perfume). Reservation is necessary: mocenigo.visitmuve. it/workshop. Closed on Mon. Full price ticket €8. www.mocenigo.visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 1992. T: 041 721798. Vaporetto line 1 (San Stae stop). Map E3
Peggy Guggenheim Collection Palazzo Venier dei Leoni The museum, boasting one of the most important collections of 20th century art in Europe, hosts the personal collection of American heiress Peggy Guggenheim. Her palatial canal side home showcases her collection of Cubist, Furturist, Surrealist and Abstract Expressionist art, with works by almost 200 artists, including Picasso, Pollock, Kandinsky, Miró, de Chirico and Dalí. It also hosts the works of other important collections and prestigious temporary exhibitions. Open Wed-Mon 10am-6pm; Closed on Tuesdays. Full price ticket €15. www.guggenheim-venice.it. Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, Dorsoduro 701 (Canal Grande). T: 041 2405.440/419. Vaporetto line 2 (Accademia stop), line 1 (Accademia stop or Salute stop). Map E5
Sale Monumentali della Biblioteca Marciana The old St. Mark’s Library, or Sansoviniana
Founded in 1261, the School is housed in a complex featuring several different architectural styles, including masterpieces of Renaissance art like its superb double staircase (1498) right up to the final major architectural changes made in the 18th century to enhance the Sala Capitolare. It contains numerous artistic masterpieces, including works by Tintoretto, Palma the Younger and Tiepolo. Today, the School is a prestigious space used to host congresses, art exhibitions and concerts. Tours are suspended during congresses. Visit the website to check the days on which the museum is open to the public. Open daily, 9.30am-5pm. Full price ticket €5; Scuola Grande + church €8. www.scuolasangiovanni.it. San Polo, 2454 (Campiello della Scuola). T: 041 718234. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4
Scuola Grande di San Rocco The headquarters of the San Rocco Brotherhood, this stunning building, to which hardly any modifications have been made, hosts more than 60 masterpieces by artists of the likes of Giorgione, Tiepolo and Titian, still presented in their original layout. Its establishment represented an important moment in the history of 16th century Venetian art, above all thanks to Tintoretto’s famous cycle of Old and New Testament scenes. Open daily, 9.30am5.30pm. Closed on 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10; Scuola Grande + church €8. www.scuolagrandesanrocco.it. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco stop). T: 041 718234. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4
Torre dell’Orologio (Clock Tower) The Clock or Mori Tower dates back to the 15th century and is one of Venice’s most famous architectural attractions. Like a triumphal arch, it dominates the entrance from St. Mark’s Square to the city’s shop-filled Mercerie (from the word ‘Merchandise’). If you stand close up, you can observe the complex mechanisms of this large astrological clock, a masterpiece of technology and engineering. After climbing the spiral staircase, you emerge onto its terraces from which you can enjoy a magnificent view over St. Mark’s Square. Admission subject to reservation, with an expert tour guide. (T: 848 082000 MonFri 9am-1pm/2pm-6pm; Sat 9am-2pm; www. torreorologio.visitmuve.it). Full price ticket €12. www.torreorologio.visitmuve.it. Piazza San Marco. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 or 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
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ENTERTAINMENT
A “bocolo” for Saint Mark If you’re in Venice on 25 April, please note that this is a very important day for the lagoon city. It’s the feast of St. Mark, one of Venice’s most important holidays commemorating the city’s patron saint. By Stefania Vida
L
iberation Day is a national holiday in Italy celebrated annually on April 25. It marks the fall of Mussolini's Italian Social Republic and the end of the Nazi occupation in Italy. However, for Venetians, this day has an even more significant meaning. On this day, the people of Venice celebrate the city’s patron saint, whose remains were found in Alexandria, Egypt in 828, and then bravely transported to Venice by two legendary Venetian merchants. An interesting fact for history buffs: according to tradition, during the reign of the Serenissima, all the Republic’s most influential authorities took part in an impressive procession that left from St. Mark’s Square. Two other dates were also dedicated to 52 W H E R E V E N I C E I A P R I L 2 017
honouring the saint: January 31, when the transportation of his remains to Venice is commemorated, and June 25, the day on which his hidden remains were discovered. The Feast of St. Mark is an event steeped in history and tradition, including one especially appreciated by Venice’s female population. This tradition, also known as the ‘Festival of the Blooming Rose’ involves a Venetian man giving the woman he loves a ‘bocolo’, a red rose bud symbolizing their love. Handed down for generations, the legend, from which the tradition of giving the rosebud arises, centers on two star-crossed lovers, Maria Partecipazio, the Doge’s daughter, and Tancredi a troubadour. Although the story of these two young lovers did not have a happy ending,
the custom of the ‘bòcolo’ is unquestionably a special occasion to make a small, yet much appreciated, gesture of love! A FEAST FOR EVERYONE According to tradition, April 25 in Venice is not only marked by processions and religious celebrations in the Basilica of San Marco, but also by various cultural and historical events. This year, the date will be celebrated with the traditional ‘Regata dei Traghetti’ or Gondola Ferry Race. Nine crews of gondoliers, manning four-oared gondolas, leave from the Arsenale and travel along the Grand Canal up to Riva di Biasio, where they row around a designated pole and return to the finishing line at Pescheria di Rialto.
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM
CONCERT VENUES & THEATRES Teatro Goldoni The Goldoni Theater is the oldest theater in Venice and the fourth most ancient in the city. Built by the Vendramin family in 1622, it was originally named after them. Its high point came in 1752, when it engaged Carlo Goldoni, the city’s most important dramatist at that time. It was renovated several times, first in 1818 and subsequently in 1933 and in 1979. In addition to Verona’s Teatro Nuovo and Padua’s Teatro Verdi, the Goldoni Theater is now managed by the Teatro Stabile di Veneto. www. teatrostabiledelveneto.it. San Marco, 4650/B. T: 041 2402011. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto stop). Map E4
Teatro La Fenice
UNMISSABLE Located in the Sestiere San Marco, La Fenice Opera House is the one of the most legendary opera houses in Italy. Twice destroyed by fire (1836 and 1996) and twice restored to its former splendour, for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, symphonies and the International Festival of Contemporary Music. In the 19th century, it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Gioachino Rossini, Vincenzo Bellini, Gaetano Donizetti and Giuseppe Verdi, while in the 20th century it became a focal point for contemporary productions, featuring world premieres by Igor Stravinskij, Benjamin Britten, Sergej Prokofiev, Luigi Nono and Bruno Maderna and recently also operas by Mauricio Kagel, Adriano Guarnieri, Luca Mosca and Claudio Ambrosini. www.teatrolafenice.it. The theater is generally open daily for tours from 9.30am to 6pm. Full ticket: 10 €. The ticket price includes an audio guide, available in 5 languages (Italian, English, German, French and Spanish). San Marco, 4387 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 786672. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5
Currently celebrating its 94th edition, the rich events calendar of this year’s Opera Festival featured 46 performances with 5 operas staged on a rotational basis: ‘Carmen’ by Georges Bizet, ‘Aida’, ‘La Traviata’, ‘Il Trovatore’ by Giuseppe Verdi and ‘Turandot’ by Giacomo Puccini. (www.mostracallas.it). www.arena. it. Verona, piazza Bra 1. T: 045 8005151, 5873. Off Map One of Vicenza’s artistic marvels (located 75 km from Venice), the Teatro Olimpico was designed by Renaissance architect Andrea Palladio in 1580. It is the first and oldest covered ‘Teatro Stabile’ in the world. Its interior simulates the outdoor setting of classical theatres, with a monumental rectangular proscenium, built to host its inaugural performance in 1585. Seven wooden perspective scenes depicting the streets of Thebes depart from here in a sunburst pattern. Included in UNESCO’s list of World Heritage Sites in 1994, it continues to host performances and concerts. www.teatrolimpicovicenza.it. Vicenza, piazza Matteotti, 11. T: 0444 222800. Off Map
WELLNESS Boscolo Venezia Elegance, style and design blend to create a regenerating oasis, the ideal place for a oneof-a-kind pampering experience offering a rich program of wellness and body treatments. c/o Boscolo Venezia. Cannaregio, 3500 (Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto - Calle Larga Piave). T: 041 2208111. Vaporetto line 4.1 and 5.1 (Sant’Alvise stop). Map E2
Centro Benessere Casanova
GAMBLING & CASINOS Casinò di Venezia
San Clemente Palace Kempinski
VENETO HOT VENUES Arena di Verona The best-preserved Roman amphitheater in the world and the best known in Italy after Rome’s Colosseum, the Arena, the city’s legendary open-air opera house, is located in Verona’s historic centre (115 km from Venice). Each summer, since 1913, it has hosted a famous opera festival featuring must-see performances and internationally renowned stars.
www.teatrolafenice.it
Teatro Olimpico Vicenza
An intimate, relaxing location set in the gardens where Casanova was known to court his lovers. The Center offers a wide range of treatments and massages with a particular emphasis on facials and body treatments. c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. www.belmond.com. Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801. Vaporetto line 4.1 (Zitelle stop). Map F4
Inaugurated in 1638, this is the world's oldest gaming house and its charm has remained unaltered over the years. A perfect example of renaissance style stately home, the dwelling place of the doges and Richard Wagner’s last residence, Ca’ Vendramin Calergi is one of the most elegant buildings overlooking Venice’s major waterway, the Grand Canal. Today the rooms for elegant French games and American gaming tables are given over to the best professionals, whilst over 600 slot machines provide a more informal way of having fun. For venues, opening times, tickets: www.casinovenezia. it. Ca’ Vendramin Calergi - Cannaregio, 2040. T. 041 5297111. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marcuola stop). • Ca' Noghera - Italy’s first American-style casino, opened in 1999, it offers over 5,000 square meters of entertainment, including a new poker room for Texas hold’em Poker tournaments. Via Paliaga 4/8 Tessera (5 minutes from the Marco Polo Airport). Map E2
LA FENICE OPERA HOUSE
Here you can experience the Herb Massage Therapy service, a new approach to healing: an intimate and authentic journey based on the restorative powers of herb plants and the sensuous scents of Venice. The San Clemente Palace Kempinski offers a variety of massages - relaxing, Swedish and deep tissue - combining essential oils of lavender, rosemary and sage. Teas and coffee made with Venetian herbs and spices are complimentary. c/o San Clemente Palace Kempinski. www.kempinski.com. Isola di San Clemente, 1. T: 041 4750111. Hotel’s complimentary boat from piazza San Marco. Off Map
JW Marriott Venice Housed in a simple and elegant building, the Spa – the largest in Venice with its 1,750 m² – opens like a shell onto the water and has eight treatment cabins with a view of the lagoon and a marvellous suite. c/o JW Marriott Venice. www.jwvenice.com. Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco. T: 041 8521300. Private boat from piazza San Marco c/o moletto JW Marriott every 30 minutes. Off Map
Eforea Spa The Spa offers five treatment rooms but also a sauna, a Turkish bath, a Jacuzzi and a relaxation area. Make sure to visit its panoramic swimming pool (reserved for hotel guests only). c/o Hilton Molino Stucky. molinostuckyhilton.it. Giudecca, 810. T: 041 2723414. Vaporetto line 4.1 (Giudecca stop). Map G6
■ OPERA 1, 2, 4 April CARMEN Music by: Georges Bizet Myung-Whun Chung, conductor Calixto Bieito, director Alfons Flores, sets 21, 22, 23, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30 April and 2 May LUCIA DI LAMMERMOOR Music by: Gaetano Donizetti Riccardo Frizza, conductor Francesco Micheli, director Nicolas Bovey, sets 27, 28, 29 April (Teatro Malibran) GIULIETTA E ROMEO Music by: Nicola Antonio Zingarelli Maurizio Dini Ciacci, conductor Francesco Bellotto, director ■ CHAMBER MUSIC 3 April (Sale Apollinee) MUSIKÀMERA – YUJA WANG IN RECITAL Yuja Wang, piano 11, 12 April (Sale Apollinee) MUSIKÀMERA – CARBONARE, APAP, PROSSEDA Alessandro Carbonare, clarinet Gilles Apap, violin Roberto Prosseda, piano ■ CONCERTS 7, 9 April JEFFREY TATE CONCERT Music by: Franz Schubert, Alfredo Casella Jeffrey Tate, conductor ■ OTHER EVENTS 24 April LEONIDAS KAVAKOS & ORCHESTRA FILARMONICA DELLA FENICE Music by: Felix Mendelssohn, Johannes Brahms Leonidas Kavakos, conductor/violin w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 53
OUT OF TOWN
Veneto, all the allure of the region Villa Pisani, Stra
Several charming destinations, a perfect way to spend a relaxing day while having fun. By Simona P.K. Daviddii
VILLAS OF BRENTA The magnificent Brenta Riviera, crossed by the Brenta River and its canals, occupies most of the stretch of land that runs from Padua to Venice. Over the centuries, sumptuous villas, set in lush, beautifully tended gardens, were built on the banks of different waterways. There are approximately thirty villas, and the best way to admire them is from the water, embarking either in Padua or Venice for a pleasant day cruise, perhaps on board a ‘burchiello’, a reproduction of the ancient 18th century craft used by Venetian noblemen. Among the gems that embellish the shores, the monumental Villa Pisani in Stra, is a must see. Palladio also left his mark on Brenta: near Mira, you will find the 16th century Villa Foscari also known as la Malcontenta. In Mira, make sure to visit the 16th century Villa Contarini dei Leoni and in its vicinity Villa Widman, a spectacular 18th century complex. The last noteworthy aristocratic dwelling is Villa Sagredo in Vignovo. It was built on the remains 54 W H E R E V E N I C E I A P R I L 2 017
of a medieval castle and is still inhabited, some say, by the ghost of Giovanni Sagredo, a disciple and friend of Galileo Galilei. www.rivieradelbrentaturismo.com
Above all, Verona is known as the city of love. It is the famous setting of Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet, but it is also a vibrant town, boasting an intense cultural life. You are likely to stumble upon Juliet’s house with its beautiful Gothic portal and famous balcony, while strolling through the streets of the ancient city, amidst squares, porticoes, aristocratic palazzi, medieval towers, churches and courts. Romeo’s house, with its imposing crenellated walls, is located just a little further on. The Adige river is located just steps away, and a sunset stroll along its shores and over its
VERONA Located just over a hundred kilometers from Venice, Verona captivates visitors with a stunning medieval historical center, encircling the Roman Arena – the ultimate stage for musical events in summer. Although the Arena attracts music lovers/aficionados from all over the world, the haunts of Romeo and Juliet are no less popular.
Cortina d'Ampezzo
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Marostica ?
LUGANO MENDRISIO
Vicenza BERGAMO BRESCIA Verona
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?
NOVARA
MILANO Mantua
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Abano Montegrotto ?
Padua
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Palmanova
? ? Noventa di Piave
?Venice
TRIESTE
? Chioggia
ALESSANDRIA TORINO
Treviso
FERRARA PIACENZA GENOVA
BOLOGNA
RIMINI
MAR LIGURE VENTIMIGLIA
MAR ADRIATICO
PISA
LIVORNO
FIRENZE ANCONA
CENTURIES OF HISTORY On the previous page, Villa Pisani in Stra, one of the most famous Veneto Villas . On the right, a corner of Verona with the Arena. Below, a breathtaking view of Cortina d'Ampezzo, in the heart of the Dolomites and, at the bottom, Treviso.
historical bridges allows visitors to absorb some of Verona’s most romantic, scenic views – the perfect place to fall in love. www.tourism.verona.it DISTANCE FROM VENICE: 115 km CORTINA D'AMPEZZO Don’t miss the opportunity of a weekend getaway at one of Italy’s most exclusive resorts, a charming town exclusively positioned in the heart of the breathtaking Dolomites. A symbol of style, fashion and the Italian way of life, Cortina is the spectacular scenery and full range of alpine sports and outdoor activities offered by this bustling mountain town, attract nature lovers and sports enthusiasts during all seasons. First rate skiing, a lively après-ski scene, exclusive shopping and a great choice of events and entertainment, confirms Cortina’s position as a world-class winter destination. Winter offers an array of outdoor activities including excursions on snowcats and sleighs, nighttime descents from mountain refuges, romantic helitours, ice driving, snowkiting and horse-drawn sleigh rides… to enjoy the magic of the Dolomites from dawn to dusk. cortina.dolomiti.org - www.dolomitiskirock.com
DISTANCE FROM VENICE 420 km
Verona
Cortina d'Ampezzo Photo: Snowdog
TREVISO Lying at the heart of the city is piazza dei Signori, home to Palazzo dei Trecento and the elegant Loggia Dei Cavalieri. Its two rivers, the Sile and the Cagnan, meander gently amidst its streets adding a unique touch of charm to its historic centre encircled by the old town walls. Its colonnaded houses with their frescoed facades overlooking the Buranelli canal and the Isola della Pescheria tell of Treviso’s close relationship with its waters. The artistic treasures housed in the Duomo and in the museum hub of Santa Caterina dei Servi di Mari are particularly noteworthy and include works by Bellini, Lotto, Titian and Bassano. Art lovers should make a point of visiting Casa dei Carraresi which hosts prestigious international exhibitions. A city with a beguiling charm all of its own brimming over with picturesque osterie and small cafes overlooking its squares. DISTANCE FROM VENICE: 30 km
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OUT OF TOWN | EUGANEAN HILLS
Euganei Hills
A blend of art and nature The Regional Park of the Euganean Hills was established in 1989, and is located southwest of Padua. It offers visitors a unique blend of breathtaking landscapes, history and artistic attractions. While travelling across the plains of the Veneto region, visitors will be astonished by the unexpected sight of the Euganean Hills. Standing in total isolation southwest of Padua, their conical shapes testifies to their volcanic past, though they are never higher than 600 metres. The Regional Park of the Euganean Hills was established in 1989 to protect this area of the volcanic hills that were formed 35 million years ago.
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Offering views of rare beauty, they abound in beech and chestnut woods, enhanced by vast expanses of lush meadows and vineyards, interrupted only by picturesque, historic towns, isolated castles and aristocratic dwellings of a bygone era. Veneto’s Euganean Hills are the perfect place to indulge in leisurely excursions on foot, horseback or mountain bikes. Criss-crossed by a vast network of trails and footpaths, the area’s most scenic itineraries include the trail that leads to the Schivanoia waterfall in Teolo, and the path to the Costa Lake. Fed by hot water originating from thermal springs, the lake is the main ‘supplier’ of the therapeutic mud used by the Euganee Spa complex and it is situated just a short distance from Arquà Petrarca, one of the most beautiful towns in Italy. Other attractions worth visiting in the Regional Park include two walled cities. These are Este, encircled by a curtain wall featuring twelve towers, separated by curtain walls with Guelph crenellations and two imposing keeps, whose original plan dates back to 1050, and Monselice, where an ancient medieval castle vies for attention with elegant patrician
dwellings, like Villa Nani-Moncenigo, and the 16th century Villa Emi Capodilista. The imposing remains of a Frederician tower dominate the latter. As far as villas are concerned, the area encompassing the Euganean Hills boasts several noble dwellings. These are renowned for their sophisticated architecture and are set within beautifully tended grounds. The most impressive of these is the 17th century Villa Barbarigo in Galzignano Terme. Its magnificent Baroque garden has 16 fountains, 70 statues, three water features and an ancient boxwood labyrinth. The Colli area is also noted for its picturesque Strada del Vino (Wine Road) which allows visitors to discover one of the area’s most unique Docg wines, ‘Fior d’Arancio’ (‘orange blossom’), a white wine that can be sampled in three different versions: dry, spumante and a sweet ‘passito’ (or dessert wine). From wine to water, part of the Euganean Hills can also be visited aboard a motorboat river cruise. The tour starts from Battaglia Terme and ends in Bassanello on the outskirts of Padua. En-route, visitors can admire the Catajo Castle (1570) and the monumental Villa Molin.
Magical water
PHOTOS © SHUTTERSTOCK
One of the largest and most important spa centres in Europe, the thermal baths in Abano and Montegrotto have been renowned for the therapeutic properties of their water and mud since ancient Roman times. Before gushing to the surface with an average temperature of 75° centigrade, the waters of the Terme Euganee take 25 years to travel 80 kilometres underground at a depth of 3,000 metres. Their journey takes them through calcareous rocks where they are enriched by precious mineral salts that make them the most effective salt-bromine-iodine therapeutic waters of all time. Their extraordinary therapeutic properties were recognized in Roman times (the acronym spa derives from the Latin word salus per aquam, health through water) and were widely enjoyed more than 2,000 years ago by the ancient populations, who settled and succeeded one another in the area. An interesting fact: the ancient Venetians venerated Aponus, the god of thermal waters and curative treatments, hence the name Abano. Although the first thermal facilities were only established in the 18th century, the area of Abano, Montegrotto, Galzignano, Battaglia and Teolo now boasts 130 facilities equipped with spas (and more than 220 swimming pools) offering balneotherapy, the immersion in thermal baths to alleviate muscular and joint pain, and improve skin conditions. Other treatments include hydrokinetic therapy, an ideal therapy for post-traumatic rehabilitation, as well as inhalation therapy and mud therapy. In addition to the curative waters of the Terme Euganee, the local vegetal-mineral mud, obtained from the mineralization of earth and clay and the formation of special microscopic algae, also contains important thermal properties. The Terme Euganee are not only effective for healing. The water and mud are also used for wellness and beauty treatments, including detoxification and relaxing programs, anticellulite and weight-loss massages and anti-
ageing masks to combat the loss of skin tone and restore elasticity. And that’s not all! Once you have completed your treatment regimen, you can take home the exclusive cosmetic of "Venetian Thermal Water", made with local thermal water of the Euganean Hills (www. aquaehotels.it). Between treatments, those wishing to explore the surrounding areas should head to the picturesque town of Battaglia Terme, a romantic location overlooking a series of canals. Other must-visit sites while in the area include the numerous Renaissance villas surrounding Galzignano Terme and the ancient archaeological excavations of Montegrotto Terme, including the three Roman baths decorated with mosaics and
marble flooring. Finally, don’t miss the Casa delle Farfalle (the House of Butterflies) in Montegrotto). This magical place is ‘inhabited’ by live species of butterflies from all over the world. The House of Butterflies is connected to the Bosco delle Fate (the Fairies Wood), an enchanted place, where each tree is associated with a fairytale or legend.
SPA HOTELS
ONLY 45 MINUTES FROM VENICE
Thirty spas and wellness hotels in the province of Padua are associated with the Aquaehotels consortium. aquaehotels.it Abano Terme ***** Abano Grand Hotel (L) | Due Torri | Grand Hotel Trieste & Victoria **** Alexander Palace | All’Alba | Astoria | Gran Torino | Internazionale | La Residence & Idrokinesis (S) | Metropole (S) | Palace Meggiorato | Park Hotel | Tritone (S) *** Dolomiti | Firenze | Paradiso | Principe | Smeraldo | Verdi (S) ** Belvedere Montegrotto Terme ***** Relilax Miramonti **** Bellavista | Continental | Delle Nazioni | Garden (S) | Mioni Royal San *** Commodore | Eliseo (S) | Marconi Teolo ** Mamma Margherita
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ESSENTIALS
Venice, the Floating City Some information and invaluable tips to experience the best that this magical city on water has to offer. By Simona P. K. Daviddi Italians (at least many of them), may already know that Venice… actually floats! Unlike Amsterdam or Saint Petersburg, it is not just furrowed by canals, bordered by roads and pavements. In Venice, canals are the only available communication route, bearing in mind that part of the city extends over a handful of beautiful islands that are scattered across the Lagoon. For this reason, the lagoon city can only be crossed on foot or by boat. Cars, motorbikes, bicycles and even roller skates are strictly forbidden. But this is not all. At times Venice may find itself... under water! The acqua alta phenomenon – the result of heavy rainfall and high tides - can cause the water level to rise by as much as a meter, forcing everyone to walk on raised plank walkways, or don rain boots (many shops, including tobacconists, sell disposable 58 W H E R E V E N I C E I A P R I L 2 017
ones) in order to cross the city’s flooded calli, campielli and salizade. Calli, campielli and salizade are Venetian words used to identify streets, squares and alleys while sestieri is the local word indicating the six districts the city is divided into: San Marco, Dorsoduro, Cannaregio, Santa Croce, San Polo and Castello. This division dates back to the 12th century and also includes areas such as La Giudecca, the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore (San Marco) and the Island of San Michele, home to the city’s cemetery (Castello). Street numbers in each sestiere start from 1 and often reach four figures, for example, one of the last numbers of the sestiere of Castello is 7,000. You need to learn them if you want to find your way through the spectacular, maze-like historic centre.
Venice also has its own network of public... and private transportation: its vaporetti, real waterbuses, are the most popular craft used by locals, which is why they are often very crowded during peak hours. These enginepowered water taxis are able to whiz across the lagoon in a heartbeat, but for those who prefer a unique, incredibly romantic experience, the famous, distinctive gondola is an absolute must. This elegant, black, one-oared rowing boat drifts gently across the water, while its gondolier sings an entire repertoire of traditional Venetian folk songs. It goes without saying that the waters of the canals are not suitable for swimming, and their banks are often slippery. Be careful not to be so focused on your selfie stick that you walk into a canal because you might be in for some © PAOLA DALLA VALENTINA rather unpleasant surprises!
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM
Emergency POLICE T: 113 AMBULANCE T: 118 FIRE BRIGADE T: 115 TRAFFIC POLICE T: 041 2747070 LOST AND FOUND ON VAPORETTI T: 041 2722179 24-HOUR PHARMACY: check the display at
all pharmacies.
Airports INTERNATIONAL MARCO POLO DI TESSERA AIRPORT (VCE) - Venice’s Marco Polo Airport offers easy access to numerous destinations located in the Veneto region and in Northern Italy, the Canova di Treviso Airport (in Sant’Angelo) and main railway routes. The Marco Polo Airport is situated at a distance of 13 km from Venice (www.veniceairport.it). Trasportation from the Marco Polo Airport to the historic centre of Venice (and vice-versa): • Taxis (15 min. to Piazzale Roma, approximately €40); • water taxis (fast, private motorboats, approximately €80 ). This service is operative 24/24h (Consorzio Motoscafi Venezia www.motoscafivenezia.it. T: 041 5222303). • ATVO shuttle bus (20 min. to Piazzale Roma, €3, luggage included); • ACTV bus no. 5 (30 min. to Piazzale Roma with intermediate stops, €1, luggage excluded); • Alilaguna motorboats (a private service that uses ACTV’s network of docking stations with intermediate stops at strategic points throughout the city. Fares range from 8 to 27 euros). www. alilaguna.it. T: 041 2401701.
Trains
“SESTIERI”, THE DISTRICTS OF VENICE
FERROVIE DELLO STATO - Trenitalia Railway
Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com. Venice’s Railway Station (Santa Lucia) can be accessed from all main European and Italian cities. The Railway Station overlooks the lagoon and is located just steps from the stops of Venice’s main public transportation lines. E.g.: to reach St. Mark’s Square by vaporetto, take line 1 or 2. Estimated journey time from main Italian cities via high-speed trains, including Frecciarossa, Frecciabianca, Frecciargento, Italo, Thello, Eurocity:
Tourist Information
Santa Croce
Isola di San Michele
Cannaregio
San Polo Dorsoduro
Castello
San Marco
Giudecca
Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore
APT - Azienda di promozione Turistica Città
Metropolitana di Venezia (eng.turismovenezia. it/): Palazzetto Carmagnani, San Marco 2637. T: 041 5298711. VENEZIA UNICA - The official tourism website
of the City of Venice (www.veneziaunica.it)
Tourist Card VENEZIA UNICA CITY PASS is an all-in-one pass
that offers unlimited use of public transportation, admission to tourist attractions and cultural events in the city, plus a number of other useful services. You can purchase your card online and customize your Venezia Unica City Pass to suit your individual travel needs (www.veneziaunica.it/en) exchange vouchers. Open daily 9am-4pm. T: 392 6786628.
Cannaregio, like Castello, is the largest and most densely populated district of Venice. Its name probably derives from the expanse of reeds found in the swamps on which it was built. Castello takes its name from the castle of which traces still remain today. It extends around the Arsenale and includes the Gardens of the Biennale and the Riva degli Schiavoni. Dorsoduro is named after the compact sand dunes found in this area. It overlooks both the Grand Canal and the Giudecca Canal, along which the long promenade known as the Fondamenta delle Zattere stretches.
San Marco takes its name from the Basilica. This is the city’s main sestiere because it houses the palaces that once constituted the government of Venice until its fall. San Polo, which takes its name from the church of San Polo, is the geographic centre of Venice. It stretches from the highest part of the Rialto Bridge and is the place where the Rialto fish and vegetable market is held. Santa Croce takes its name from the ancient church of the same name which unfortunately was demolished under Napoleon’s rule. It includes the Stazione Marittima and the piazzale Roma terminal, a junction for train and road transport (buses, cars) and lagoon traffic (ferries, vaporetti or water buses).
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ESSENTIALS Special Tours CITYSIGHTSEEING VENICE HOP ON-HOP OFF Exclusive view on the city of Venice. www.venezia.city-sightseeing.it • Tickets 24h: adults 20€, children (5-15 years) 10€. • Tickets 48h: adults 27€, children (5-15years) 13€. Tickets available: on board at any boat stop, at the CitySightseeing Venice Visitor Center, on the "Sightseeing Experience" free App, on www.venezia.city-sightseeing.it. • Duration: 150 minutes (every 60 minutes) • Services: wheelchair welcome, free Wi-Fi, Free "Sightseeing Experience" App (for Apple and Android smartphones) with the City Sightseeing Tour Map always with you, walking tour available in 5 different languages, CitySightseeing Venice Visitor Center. • Eight Stops: Ferrovia Compartimentale Santa Lucia – Stazione Marittima (Cruise Terminal) – San Marco, in front of Giardinetti Reali – Lido S.M. Elisabetta, pontile ACTV – Murano, Yalos Murano Pontile Fornace Ferro – Zattere Incurabili – Stazione Marittima (Cruise Terminal) – Ferrovia Compartimentale Santa Lucia. • New CitySightseeing Venice Visitor Center (inside the main train station Venezia Santa Lucia,next to "Freccia Club Trenitalia": any kind of information on the service and on the city, maps and exchange vouchers. Open daily (from April to November): 8.30am-5.30pm. T: 392 6786628.
GETTING AROUND VENICE Because it is a relatively small, compact city (a 45-minute walk from North to South) whose main points of interest are situated just a short distance from each other, visiting Venice on foot is the ideal solution.
experience a view of Venice that is anything but pedestrian. They are used almost exclusively by tourists (and Venetians on their wedding days). TIP Before embarking, we suggest that you check official rates (approximately €80 for 45 minutes and €100 after 7pm). Agree on a price, time limit and singing in advance to avoid unexpected surcharges. Associazione dei Gondolieri T. 041 5285075. www. gondolavenezia.it
Vaporetti - An efficient network of water bus routes covers the entire city and includes transportation to the islands.The service is active 24/24h but runs less frequently between 9.30pm and 6am. Landing stages are located at central points around the city (including Piazzale Roma, Rialto, Piazza San Marco…) .
Traghetti (Ferries) - ‘Traghetti’ are gondolas that cross the Grand Canal in 8 points. ‘Traghetti’ rides cost just €2 for non-residents (for holders of City Pass Venezia Unica or ACTV passes, rides cost 0.70) and operate almost non-stop. Four ferry services operate in Venice.
Tickets - Although paper tickets are available at main embarkation points and from authorized resellers displaying the ACTV logo, electronic tickets can also be pre-purchased online. ACTV. Piazzale Roma. T: 041 2424. www actv.it. There are 6 different types of tickets, ranging from hourly tickets (€7.50 for a 75’ regular route) to a weekly pass (€60) for unlimited travel on almost all lines. TIP The boat trip from one bank of the Grand Canal to the other costs 50 cents (via ferry).You can pre-purchase reduced-price tickets from Venice Connected: www.veniceconnected.com. IMOB smart cards are available at all ACTV ticket offices. Although they allow you to save on official rates, they are only recommended for long-term visits. Gondolas - These traditional craft are among the best-known tourist attraction for those wishing to
Taxi - Water taxis with a cabin (private water taxis) are available for hire from 16 landing stages, including Lido Aeroporto Marco Polo, piazzale Roma, Ferrovia, Rialto and San Marco, or from your hotel. TIP Although private water taxis can be costly, they are the fastest and most practical means of getting around Venice. Ask your concierge. Car - The city can be accessed from the mainland by car, thanks to an elevated section (a 4km bridge, the longest in Italy, also known as the ‘Translagunare’), with limited parking options at garages in Piazzale Roma or on the Island of Tronchetto. Prices for 24-hour parking cost approximately €30 euro. TIP It’s advisable to travel to Mestre by car (24-hour parking costs approximately €15 euro) and then continue on to Venice by public transport.
PHOTOS © SVIDA_WHEREITALIA
Gondolas, a tourist’s dream!
A hallmark symbol of Venice, who has never dreamt of riding on one of these marvels of craftsmanship, whose charms have withstood the test of time? The components (approximately 280) of these extraordinary craft still bear their almost fairytale-like names of the past: ‘sankòni’, ‘fiùboni’, ‘solarai’ and ‘maistre’... To name but a few.
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Tradition has it that each gondolier has his own gondola, custommade according to his weight and height. Among the most ancient boatyards (or 'squeri'), the most remarkable is perhaps that of Domenico Tramontin and Sons. Established in 1884, it was the supplier to the House of Savoy, the Prefecture and the Commune of Venice (Dorsoduro, 1542. www.tramontingondole.it). An interesting feature that you are bound to notice on a gondolier’s uniform is the logo. Its most recent version was created by the Style Department of Duca d’Aosta, a shop established in 1902 in the Rialto neighbourhood by Emilio Ceccato. The logo features St. Mark as the Winged Lion, holding an open book, a symbol of peace and strength, framed by two 'ferri' – the traditional iron gondola prow ornaments (also known in Venetian as 'fero da próva' or 'dolfin'). Bringing one home as a keepsake is neither easy (nor cheap!), but you can avoid this by purchasing a souvenir created ad hoc. Where? At Emilio Ceccato’s clothing and accessory store, the official supplier and technical sponsor of the Associazione Gondolieri di Venezia (The Gondolier’s Association of Venice) in San Polo 16/17 (T: 041 5222700) and in San Marco, 257 (T: 041 8478885). www.emilioceccato.com
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THE LIDO OF VENICE
Although the Lido is Venice’s beach, it is also much more. An island, a town with its own history and a nature reserve, it is also a jet-setters’ paradise, with luxury hotels and exclusive villas. In September, it becomes the world capital of cinema.
WHAT TO SEE - The nature reserve and wild sand dunes of the Alberoni, recognized and protected by the WWF since 1997, are the perfect place for a quick swim. The area comprises 160 hectares of land, including two kilometers of golden sand dunes that extend from Murazzi to the Alberoni dam, and a beautiful pine forest. For a natural beach experience, the Lido also offers several free beaches, like the sandy dunes of San Nicolò, the rocky outcrops of the Murazzi, or the beach known to the Venetians as ‘Bluemoon”.
The Lido of Venice
Among other attractions, the area is home to an exclusive golf club set against a stunning backdrop of umbrella pines and poplars. Founder of the famous automotive house and an avid fan of Venice, Henry Ford commissioned the course in 1926, when he discovered to his disappointment that there was nowhere else where he could play golf, a sport widely practiced in America, but not in Italy at that time.
WHERE TO GO - Moving to the other end of the island, we find Malamocco, a small, ancient town that offers visitors a mini experience of Venice with its canals, ‘campielli’ and ancient buildings. Also dating back to olden times, in a more northerly direction, is the settlement of San Nicolò, featuring a Benedictine complex built in the 11th century. WHAT TO DO - Don’t miss a walk, or even better, a bike ride along the Murazzi, the remains of ancient fortresses which are now used as a race track. Bicycles are provided by several of the island’s hotels. If you happen to be there at the right time, you will be treated to a breathtaking sunset. What’s more, you’ll also get a glimpse of a wilder, more untamed side of Venice, amidst the boats and fishermen searching for clams. One of the island’s rituals, that you should not miss is having a ‘spritz’: the Venetian cocktail or aperitivo par excellence. You won’t have any trouble finding one at any bar on the Gran Viale, the Lido’s promenade. If you’re not pressed for time you can catch a boat from the Gran Viale to Pellestrina (where you can eat fabulously fresh fish, or a sandwich with fried sardines), or travel to Chioggia, a second, smaller Venice that abounds in fabulous small restaurants.
Joi n u s f o r a n u n f o r g e t t a ble e x pe r ie n c e in Ve n ic e
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PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK
The Lido (meaning beach in Italian) is a separate island from Venice. Measuring less than 200 metres in depth in certain areas, it is a 12km stretch of sand, strategically positioned between the Lagoon and the open sea, only connected to the city and dry land by ‘vaporetti’ or ferry boats. The clear difference between the Lido and Venice is that the Lido has real streets, which means you get around by car. In mid-November, Rolls Royce’s, Cadillac’s and Bentleys abound at the entrances of grand hotels. However, today, it is considered chicer to access the Lido by boat or explore it on foot or by bicycle.
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Santa Maria delle Penitenti
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Museo Di Torcello Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta Chiesa di Santa Fosca
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Chiesa di Santa Caterina
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SAN FRANCESCO DEL DESERTO Convento di San Francesco del Deserto
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ISOLA DI TESSERA
ISOLA SAN GIACOMO IN PALUDE
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Chiesa di San Michele in Isola
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Chiesa dei Santi Maria e Donato
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Santa Maria degli Angeli
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Nuove Fondamenta delle
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Rio de San Gerolamo
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Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo
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Aeroporto Nicelli Venezia Lido
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Teatro Verde
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Japan Pavilion
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RE
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United States Pavilion
VIAL
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LA
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Lido S. Nicolo' M
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Scuola Navale Militare "Francesco Morosini"
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CALLE VERROCCHIO DEL
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CALLE
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CALLE
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CALLE
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CALLE
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LA SACRESTIA
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ALBANESI
CALLE DE LE RASSE
CALLE DEL
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CATERINA
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SANTA
della
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LUNGA
CALLE
CALLE
Canale
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GA
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LE
CALLE
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CALLE
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CALLE
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CALLE
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C. DEI
GIOVANNI
S.G. GRISOSTOMO
CALLE
ZULIAN SAN
BALOTE
CALLE
LE DE
PISCINA
CALLE
NUOVE
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CALLE DEI FUSERI
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LL
RIO CROCE
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AI ZATTERE FONDAMENTA
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CALLE
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CALLE
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CALLE
CALLE
SAN FONDAMENTA
CALLE
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RIO TERÀ CAZZA
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CALLE
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CALLE
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REGINA
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DE
CALLE
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DE
DE
CALLE
SECONDO
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RIO
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CALLE
DRIO
DORSODURO SESTIERE
CALLE
SAN
MEZZO CALLE
DI
L’ARCHIVIO
FON. DEI TOLENTINI
CAMPIELLO DEL LIBRER
CALLE
ROCCO SAN
ALBANESI DEI
CALLE
SBIACCA
STRETA
CALLE
CALLE
CALLE
RAGUSEI
LIPOLI
ORBI DEI
CALLE
LE DE
GIUSTINIAN
EUFEMIA BEATA CALLE
DEL
RIO TERA’ OGNISANTI
SANGIANTOFFETTI
EREMITE
FONDAMENTA
DEI CORTELLOTTI
FONDAMENTA NANI
FOSCARINI
VENIER
CALLE
CALLE
LL
CA
FONDAMENTA
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MP
CA
O
CA
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NO
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TI
EN
C
AM
BO
D
LI
N
SA
LL
BB
TE
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TA
NT
EN
Parco delle Rimembranze
MP
Santa Croce
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AM
CA
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LL
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GRANDE
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CA
IN
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C.
CR
CROCE
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TA
RD
CALLE
GI
N
RIO
IA
PONTE
SA
TA
San Giuseppe di Castello
Russia Pavilion
G
CALLE
EN
E
CORTE
AM
ND
AL
FIANCO
FO
CAMPO SAN ISEPO
Giardini
S. Giorgio
VI
SAN GIACOMO
CENETTE
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CALLE
ALDI
EP
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ACCADEMIA
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IST
LL
Lungo
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R L C
IB PE GAR
NA
RI
DE
MA
ION
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C.
CALLE
SAN PIETRO DI CASTELLO
QUINTAVALLE CALLE
POLACCA
CALLE
BB
IAN
RE
EN
ROSA
SALAMON
CALLE
SA
RI
CO
C.
GIUSEP
SARES
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DOMENICO CALLE SAN
VIALE
CALL
TI
CALLE
COPPO
SCHIAVONA
AR
CALLE CORERA
CALLE
M
LARGA
MARAFONI
CALLE
SANT'ANNA
SE
C A L L E C ATA PA N
CALLE
TE
Basilica di San Pietro di Castello CALLE
CALLE TERCO
F O N D A M E N TA
OSPIZIO
CALLE
LA CERTOSA
Vergini
FOND. SAN GIOACCHIN
I
AN
CALLE
de le
N TA R I O D E L L A TA NA
EL
FONDAMENTA
LE
San Francesco di Paola BALD
CALLE DELL’ANGELO
DELFINA
GRIMANI
I S ET
OLO C A L L E G I A N B AT T I S TA T I E P
CALLE
CALLE
NUOVA
DEI PRETI
DE
CH
Ponte
ENA
COLTRERA
CALLE
CALLE
GARI
EPPE
CALLE FRIZIER
VA
C. LOREDANA
AM
DELLA
MI
ERBE
ARS
NALE
FONDAME
IUS VIA G
CALLE
ND
CALLE
E
LE
E N TA
TA A R SE
LA TANA
CALLE
FO
CALLE ALBERO
LL
JUNGHANS
DE
RAMO DE
Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore
FO
Redentore O
Santissimo Redentore
CALLE MORE
del
AMEN
TANA
CROSERA
SAN GI ACOM
CA
CAMPO
CALLE
FOND
DE LA
CALLE
M E N TA
DAM
La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale
CAMPO
ISOLA DI
GIUDECCA FONDA
VIDA
CASTELLO
PICCOLO
LA
DI
PONTE
PALLADA
SCUOLA
DEI
DE
Museo Storico Navale di Venezia
Punta della Dogana
Zitelle
FONDAMENTA
FONDAMENTA
FON
FONDAMENTA ARSENALOTTI
CALLE
CALLE DELA CREA
IA
CALLE
Giardino delle Vergini
Rio
San Martino
MOROSINA
FONDAMENTA
PIETRO
FEM
La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese
RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA
CALLE
SAN
'EU
La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale
Arsenale di Venezia
Arsenale di Venezia
PESTRIN
GRITTI CALLE
RUGA VECCHIA
NT
SCUOLA
DE CALLE
CROSERA
C. VOLTO
FORNACE
SALONI
SA
CALLE
PISCINA
PIGNATER
CALLE
ONI
CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO
TERRÀ
TA
NUOVE
CASTELLO
L’ANZOLO
L’ARCO
DE
Spirito Santo
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DE
SALIZADA
DEL PIOVAN
CATECUMENI
RIO
AM
CELESTIA
DONA
DE
MARTIN SAN
CALLE
FONDAMENTA
RIO TERRÀ
FONDAMENTA
DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO
ND
CASTELLO CASE
DELLA
CALLE
CALLE
CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI
BASTION
Moise
DEL TRAGHETTO
MARTIRI
San
CALLE
RIDOTTO
TREDICI
Rio
CALLE
VALLARESSO
CALLE
CALLE
SARTOR
FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN
FO
COSMO
SESTIERE
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA
DE L’OGIO
CALLE
SCUDI
C. DEL
ASCENSIONE
DEI PUTI
San Gregorio
RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO
FO
Sant'Eufemia
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SECONDO SAGRADO
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CORTE DEL MORION
CORTE DELLE GATE
ANTONIN
S C H I AV
DEI FORNI
BIAGIO
CALLE
CASE
RAMO
CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA
CORTE SACCA
SAN
CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO
San Giovanni Battista in Bragora
Arsenale
SAN
CONVERTITE
San Francesco della Vigna
FRANCESCO
SANTA GIUSTINA
CALLE DEI FURLANI
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R I VA D EGLI
S. Zaccaria (Pieta')
100 m
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
SAN
SALIZADA
DEL
LARGA
CALLE
SEBASTIAN
FONDAMENTA
CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA
San Giovanni di Malta
CALLE TERAZZERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’
Santa Maria della Pietà VONI
S. Zaccaria (Danieli)
DEGLI
S. Marco (Vallaresso)
SALUTE
LAVRANERI
ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
ZON
DEGLI
CALLE
SAN
CALLE DEL PESTRIN
TERRÀ
CALLE
CALLE SAN LORENZO
CALLE LION
San Giorgio dei Greci
San Zaccaria
SCHIA
O
SCHIAVONI RIVA
CALLE
VERONA
DEGLI
CALLE BOSELLO
LA
MINELLI
RIO
CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA
San Lorenzo
CALLE DEL MAGAZEN
CAMPO SAN LORENZO
VIN CALLE DEL
Palazzo
DE
CAVALLETTO
ORSEOLO
FONDAMENTA DEL VIN
DEL
C.
CALLE
S. SAMUELE
PESTRIN
CALLE
TRONCHETTO
DEL NOVA ISOLA
FONDAMENTA
ra Scomenze De
MARITTIMO
Canale
PORTO
FONDAMENTA
F. CONDULMER
DIREZIONE
MARITTIMO
CERERIA LA
PORTO
DE C.
DEL CAFETIER
CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA
DE L’OSMARIN FONDAMENTA
CAMPO SAN PROVOLO SOTO E CORTE NOVA
C.
Rio Del
FABBRI
FONDAMENTA
DEL
CAMPO DELLA SALUTE
Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute
CALLE DEL BASTION
FOND. VENIER DAI LEON
CALLE
DEI PRETI
CALLE
CALLE
GATE
ZORZI SALIZADA
C. PIANTON
R I VA
DRASI
a
CALLE
CAMPO SAN LORENZO
CORTE NOVA
CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO
DE LE
SPECHIERI
SPADARIA
DEI
PISCINA
VERONA
RC
CALLE
DEI
CALLE
C. DE LE COLONNE
DELL’OROLOGIO
LA
CALLE
DE
A N M
SALIZADA
DIREZIONE
LATERANO
SEVERO
CALLE
MARZARIA
REDIVO
CALLE GOLDONI
CALLE
Marittim
Santa Maria del Pianto
DE LE TOLE
FONDAMENTA GIOVANNI
CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO
BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO
SAN
FABBRI
C.
MANDOLA
AVVOCATI
TERÀ
RIELO
SPORCA CALLE PAZIENZE DE LE
LORENZO
FONDAMENTA
C. SAN
SCOAZZERA DE LA
LE PAZIENZE
SA
MEZO
GIUFFA
CASSELERIA
DEI
CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO
Palazzo Ducale
LO
Rio San Lorenzo
DE CALLE
RUGA
CALLE
PISCOPIA
CARBON
Salvador
LARGA
BARBARIA
SAN
CORTE NUOVA
San Giovanni Novo
MARCO
CANONICA DE LA
O
MO
FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO
LIO
DEL
CALLE
P U N TA S A B B I O N I
NOVE
Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto
CORTE TREVISAN
Palazzo Querini Stampalia
CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA
REMEDIO DEL
SAN
CALLE
RC
FONDAMENTA
SAN
San
RIO
CALLE
MAGAZZINI
San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti
Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo
Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo
CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO
FORNO
CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA
Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani
BANDE
CORTE FRUTARIOLI
CALLE
LARGA
PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI
Basilica di San Marco
MA
SAN
CALLE DEL FIGHER
CALLE
BALONI
CAPPELLO BIANCA CALLE
CALLE ERIZZO
SALIZADA
DE LE
ORBI
FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI
CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO
CALLE
DEI
CALLE
Rio
C.
AI
G. GALLINA
DEL
DE LE ERBE
CORTE DEL PRESTRIN
TASCA
CORTE DEL FORNO
C.DEI
CALLE
BEMBO
ZULIAN
CORTE TORRETTA
ZZA
REMER
CALLE
GRIMANI
CAVALLI
Stazione
LARGA
CALLE
O MUSSATO CALLE
San Giuliano
SAN
PIGNOLI
O DEL
CINQUE
CALLE
CALLE
CORNER
zera
DEI
LIO
COCCO
TOSCANA
CALLE
LUCATELLO
MARZARIA DEI
Museo Correr
LE VIGNOLE
FONDAMENTA
CORTE NOVA
CALLE GABRIELI
DRIO CALLE LE SCUOLE
CALLE
CALLE
LICINI
MEZO
C.
CORTE DELLE ANCORE
PIA
FONDAMENTA
ZATTERE
DE LA SACA
CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO
CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO
NOVE
BERLENDIS
CORTE CORTESE
CAMPIELLO STELLA
CAMPIELLO WIDMANN
CASTELLI
PIOMBO
D. PALLE
CAMPO DEL VOLTO
CORTE
RUBBI
DE
CORTE GRAGOLINA
Bacino Orseolo
Salute
Spirito Santo CALLE
DEI LAVRANERI
San Gerardo
BIAGIO
BOTERI
VARISCO
CALLE
SAN
C. LARGA
CORTE
CALLE
CAPITELLO
BALOTE
GALLO
CALLE
O
CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO
CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN
CALLE
MIRACOLI
GIAZZO
Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione
CAMPO
DE LA FAVA
CALICE
DEL
TAGIAPIERA
LE
GRAGOLINA LE COLONNE DE
CALLE CAMPO SAN GALLO
Ca' Giustinian
RI
Palazzo Genovese
PONTE
SACCA SAN
DEI
V O LT
CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA
WIDMANN
DEI
CALLE DEL C.MARTINENGO CALLE
GALIAZZO
C. DEL
SALVADOR
MARZARIA
CORTE C.DEL TRAMONTIN
C.DE
STRAZZE TERÀ RIO
CARRO
PRIMO RAMOCONTARINA CORTE
San Moisè
FONDAMENTE
LARGA
CAMPO DE LA CARITA’
LE D EL
DEL M ORA
C O RT E B ATA G I A
RIO
Teatro Malibran
CALLE
DE
SAN
DELLE
SAN
DEL CALLE
CORTE BAROZZI
Santa Maria dei Miracoli
SAN CANZIAN
CAMPO
C. DEL
SABION
C.
C.
FRUTARIOL
DEL
CAMPO SAN MOISE’
CASTELLO
CALLE
MADONA
CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO
FREZZERIA
MOISE’
SA PISCINA
XXII MARZO
SESTIERE
ORESI
DE LA
FORNO
RAMO
DEL
DIETRO
RAMO
S.Canciano CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA
DEI
PARANGON
CALLE
DOLERA
C. DE
RIO TERA’
L' ARZERE
GUARDIANI
DE
TODESCHI
CALLE
CANAL RIO TERA’
C. DEI
LARGA
CAMPIELLO CONTARINI
VENEZIA
CALLE
CAL
FRUTARIOL
CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO
CALLE
CALLE
Palazzo Pisani Gritti
Collezione Peggy Guggenheim
DEL FORNO
CALLE DEL NAVARO
FONDAMENTA
VENIER
BARBA
CAMPIELLO VALMARANA
CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO
CORTE DEL
MARZARIA
San Salvador
MAGAZEN
DEL
CALLE
DE
X
SALIZADA
MAZZINI CORTE
LUCA SAN CALLE
CALLE
PISCINA
LA CHIESA
DRIO
CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION
FONTEGO
SAN LIO
LARGA
SAN SALVADOR
TEATRO DEL CALLE
LOCANDE
CALLE
CORTE
MICHIEL
CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO
Santa Maria del Giglio
CHIESA
SALIZADA
SPIRITO
CALLE
CORTE DEL REMER
RUGA
CALLE
CALLE
VOLTI
GALIZZI
ROSSA
nde Canal Gra
FONDAMENTA
RAGUSEI
FONDAMENTA
CROSERA
CALLE
CALLE
TRAGHETTO
VAPORETTO
CALLE
STURION
DEL
ALLO
ZEN
SARTORI
TERÀ
CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON
C. DEL
SALIZZADA PIO
CALLE
TEATRO
CALLE ASSASSINI
San Fantin
Maria del Giglio
Casa di Marco Polo
Fontego dei Tedeschi
Ponte di Rialto Rialto
CORTE DEL
Palazzo Nervi Scattolin
PATERNIN
MANDOLA
TERÀ
RIO
Teatro la Fenice
DELLA
CAPPUZZI
ZATTERE
CAMPO DEI GESUITI
FONDAMENTA
FOND.
RIO
SALIZADA
CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO
San Giacomo di Rialto
CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO
Teatro Carlo Goldoni
CAMPO MANIN SAN CALLE CALLE
CAFETIER
CAOTORTA
Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda
CALLE
CALLE
FONDAMENTA
SANTO
DEL
CATERINA
San Giovanni Grisostomo
CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA
Rialto (Palazzo Cavalli)
CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA
TEATRO
MARCO
DEL
CALLE
CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI
San MaurizioSanta
Canal Grande
CAMPO DI SAN VIO
CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE
SANTA
PRIULI
NOVA
PESCARIA
Fontego Palazzo Rava Dolfin Manin
S.Silvestro
DEL
CALLE
CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO
Santo Stefano
C.SANT'AGNESE
NANI
AI GESUATI
Giudecca Hilton
Chiesa dei Gesuiti
CAMPO DELLA
RAVANO
San Silvestro
CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO
CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA
Palazzo Grimani
San Beneto San Luca
SAN BOTEGHE
CAMPO PISANI
CATENE
S.ANDREA
FONDAMENTA
Santa Sofia
STRADA
FABBRICHE
DEL
RUGHETA
DEI
CALLE
CAZZIOLA
TRAGHETTO
DEL PISTOR
CALLE
Zattere
NOVE
CALLE
FONDAMENTA
FOND.
CAMPO DE LE ERBE
STUA
BECARIE
DEL SOL
DEL
DEL
CALLE
ZATTERE
CALLE
LA
CAMPO DE LA
CAMPIELLO DEL SANSONI
CAMPIELLO
CALLE
CAMPO SAN BENETO CALLE
LE
CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO
Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione FONDAMENTA
FONDAMENTE
Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana
MUTI
CAMPO SAN APONAL
LE
CA’
BOTA
Sant’Aponal DEL
DE
LA
CARAMPANE
de r an
NARISI FOND.
DE
CAMPO SANTO STEFANO
San Vidal CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL
San Trovaso CAMPO SAN TROVASO
DEL
San Felice
LE
Palazzo Fortuny
CORTE DELL’ALBERO
CROSERA
FALIER
BONLINI
TRAPOLIN
VENDRAMIN
CALLE
DE
CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI
DI SAN MARCO
SAMUELE
Palazzo Loredan
CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ
LONGO
IA
CA'
DE DE
CARAMPANE
TERÀ
PERDON
CARROZZE
al G
SESTIERE
S. SALIZADA
LE
Abazia della Misericordia D
R
San Cassiano CALLE CALLE
RIO
CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI
Can Sant'Angelo
VECCHIA
LEZZE
FONDAMENTA
O
DE
Santa Fosca
CAMPO SAN CASSAN
L’AGNELLA
Palazzo Querini-Dubois
CA’ CORTE
DE
CALLE
S. Samuele
CALLE
OGNISANTI
IC
d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro
TIOZZI
DE
CORTE DEL TEATRO
CAMPO SAN POLO
CALLE
FONDAMENTA
DE
ER
C.
Rio Nuovo
FOND.
IS
NA
DEI
C.
SCALETER
CALLE RAMO
PONTE
M
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
CORTE DEL TIOZZI
DE
DEL
Palazzo Giustinian Persico S. Toma' SX
Palazzo Grassi San Samuele
Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia
BEATE GIULIANA
SACCA
FISOLA
LARGA
TA
S.Stae
CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI
CALLE CA’BONVINCINI
BOLDO
C.
EN
TRON
SAN
San Tomà
Ca' Rezzonico
Accademia
ZATTERE AL
CALLE CHIESA
CONTARINI
dell'Orto
AM
MORETTI
C.
Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo
CAMPO SAN TOMÀ
Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo
CAMPO DEI SQUELINI CALLE BERNARDO
FODAMENTA
S. Basilio
DELLA
D
San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale
CALLE
DEL
TENTOR
MEZO
CAMPO
ZANE
CROSERA
Ca' Rezzonico
Giudecca Hilton FONDAMENTO CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO
CALLE
N
CALLE
TABACCHI
Bacino
C.
DE
SAN BOLDO
CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO
Madonna
MORI
FONDAMENTA
SAN POLO
CAMPO DEI FRARI
CALLE
San Barnaba
DEI
CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE
L
CALLE
NUOVA
PRETI
L’ASEO
NA
CAMPO SAN STIN
TOMÀ
CAMPO SAN ROCCO
DE
CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA
CA
DONZELA
CALLE
TINTORETTO
DEI
CALLE
FOMO
DE OGNISANTI
LE
ALE
LA
SAN
CALLE
CALLE
CAMPO SAN PANTALON
RENIER
DEL
A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA
Chiesa di Ognissanti
FONDAMENTA
NIE
DD
DE
PAPADOPOLI
TERÀ
Basilica dei Frari
San Rocco
Muneghete
CALLE
CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA
INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON
.DA
MA
Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni
CALLE
CALLE
RIO
CALLE
CALLE DEL MAGAZEN
le
PANTALON
San Pantalon
NUOVO
LA
La Maddalena
Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale
L’ISOLA
OCHE CALLE
OCHE
LATTE
LACA
FONDARIA
CIMESIN
de
BASEGO
RIO
CAMPO DEI CARMINI
À D E
SOTOPORTEGO
LA
CALLE DE LA LACA
LA
RAMO
CIMESIN
SAN
CALLE
Carmini
Santa Maria dei Carmini
FO de Servi N
TER
C.
TOLENTINI
FONDAMENTA
DEI
DE
CALLE DELL'OLIO
FON.
Canale
DE
DE LA VIDA
C.VENZATO
LA
CALLE
C. CAMPAZZO DE
CALLE
Rio
SALIZADA
del
CALLE DE LA CHIESA
CAMPO SAN BESAGIO
100 m
TERA’
RAMO
CALLE ORSETTI
DE
TINTOR
BESAGIO
Misericordia
FO
RIO DIETRO TERÀ LA CHIESA
CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’
DEL
SALIZADA
della
Rio
San Giacomo dall'Orio CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO CALLE
DEI
LIBERTÀ
VECCHIO BERGAMASCHI
SIMEONE LUNA
MINOTTO
Magazen
CALLE
Rio
DORSODURO
San Sebastiano SAN
CALLE CAZZA
FONDAMENTA
CANAL
LA
DEI AMAI
RAMO
Del
Rio dei Tolentini
FONDAMENTA
CALLE CONTARINA
BRIATI
CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO
CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN
RUGA BELA
BARI
DELLA
SAN
TRAGHETTO CALLE
CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL
CALLE SAVIO
RUGA VECCHIA
CAMPO
DEI
Angelo Raffaele
DORSODURO
Rio
CALLE
C.
NUOVA
CERERI
FONDAMENTA
LARDONI
Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola RIO
LARGA
PONTE PROCURATIE
DEI
CALLE
IA
CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA
DEL REMER
BIASIO
DI
BARI
C.
CALLE
LUNGA
Scomen
CALLE
RIZZI FONDAMENTA
FONDAMENTA
DE L’OGIO
RD
R
VECCHIO
RIVA
LISTA
San Simeone Profeta
Soranzo Cappello
DE CAMPO
San Nicola da Tolentino
Rio
PENSIERI
DEI FONTEGHERI
CALLE
I CALLE ORSETT
DEI
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
ICO
NOVA
MISERICORDIA
SANT'ANDREA
FONDAMENTA
TERÀ
MADONA
SAN MICHELE
FONDAMENTA
della
CAMPO FONDAMENTA DEI MORI
ER
San Marcuola
CAMPIELLO
nde l Gra Cana Riva de Biaso
CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO
NAZARIO Palazzo FONDAMENTA SAURO Soranzo Capello GARZOTTI
Giardino di Palazzo
CASE CORTE
CALLE
C. LAVADORI TERÀ
TABACCHI
RIO
LA
MIS
RIO
NUOVE
CROCE
Giardino Papadopoli
PIAZZALE ROMA RIO
FABBRICA FONDAMENTA
DE
TA
E DEL PISTO
MUNEGHE
LA
CROCE
CALLE
CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI
EN
STRADA
DE
SPAGNA
FONDAMENTA
Ferrovia
CORTE
Sant'Andrea
SANT'ANDREA
NICOLO’ SAN
San Nicolò dei Mendicoli
CALLE
AM
CALL
San Leonardo
San Geremia DI LISTA TERÀ RIO
SCALZI
DEI Ponte degli Scalzi
FONDAMENTA
San Simeon Piccolo
Ferrovia
Ferrovia
LA FO.
TERÀ
MARTA
Istituto Universitario Di Architettura
CALLE SAN BASILIO
ND
I
EONARDO
SAN LEONARDO
CALLE TRAGHETTO
CALLE
CAVALLETTI
Santa Maria di Nazareth
P.le Roma
Ponte della Costituzione
RIO
People Mover Venezia
SANTA FONDAMENTA
MATTA DI CA’
CALLE CASE NUOVE
Madonna dell'Orto
MADONNA
A
Rio
LER
NA
AI
People Mover Venezia
S A N TA
CAMPIELLO LONGHI
CALLE
AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO
NS
DELL'ORTO
S. L R I O T E R À CAMPO
CAMPO SAN GEREMIA
PRIULI
Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia
ITTICO MERCATO DIREZIONE
SE
FO
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TRONCHETTO
CAMPIELLO P I AV E
FONDAMENTA
TA
Museo Ebraico CAL
A E M
CALLE
DEL
EN
CANNAREGIO
CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO
LL
NOVA
AM
San Girolamo
CA
ISOLA
TRONCHETTO
Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo
Sant'Alvise
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ND
INE
DEL
ZZ
CALLE
PU
SAVORGNAN
MATTIA
CA
PISCINA
LE
FO
LE
O
SAN
DE
AM
L’ARCO
TA
OL
CALLE
EN
DE
AM
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SAN
ND
SA
Palazzo Nani FONDAMENTA
VECCHIA
TA
LLO
RUGA
FO
EN
TE
Palazzo Labia Parco Savorgnan Salone del Tiepolo
DA PONTE
AM
B AT
DOGE
ND
TA
CALLE
FORNER
EN
CAMPIELLO TRAGHETTO
DEL
AM
SEBASTIANO
CALLE
FO
ND
CANNAREGIO
di Cannaregio
CAMPO SAFFA
Parcheggio Bus Turistici
VENEZIA
di Sant'Alvise
Sensa
COLETTI
Canale
GIOBBE
People Mover Venezia
della
CARLO
FO
FONDAMENTA
SAN
San Giobbe
BRAGADIN
NUOVE
Rio
Rio
FOND.A
Ponte dei Tre Archi
FONDAMENTA
VENIER FONDAMENTA
PENITENTI
CANNAREGIO
DEL SABION
LARGA
FONDAMENTA
CAMPIELLO DEL SCARLATTO
CALLE
Monastero "Villa Groggia" Carmelitane Scalze
ROLAMO SACCA SAN GI
CALLE
Santa Maria delle Penitenti
CAMPIELLO DE LA LAVANDER
FONDAMENTA
F O N D A M E N TA
TA’
CORTE
ER
SANT'AGNESE
B
LA
Parco
LI
BRAGADIN
LA
PISCINA
EL
NUOVA ISOLA DEL TRONCHETTO
ISOLA DELLE TRESSE
FAUSTA
Chiesa di San Michele in Isola
D
FONDAMENTA
LE
INCURABILI
A
CALLE ZUCCHERO
VI
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FR
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VI
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5 STAR DELUXE (L) & 5 STAR Aman Canal Grande Venice Resort Hotel – San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo Baiamonte) • E4 Baglioni Hotel Luna – San Marco, 1243 • F5 Bauer Palazzo (L) – San Marco, 1459 • F5 Belmond Hotel Cipriani (L) – Giudecca, 10 • F6 Boscolo Venezia – Cannaregio, 3500 (Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto) • E2 Ca’ Sagredo (L) – Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99 • E3 Excelsior Venice (L) – Lungomare Marconi, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa (L) – Isola delle Rose – (Laguna di San Marco) • Off Map Hilton Molino Stucky (L) – Giudecca, 810 • C6 Londra Palace – Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4 Metropole – Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149 • G4 Palazzina G – San Marco, 3247 • D4 Palazzo Venart – S. Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron) • E3 Palladio Hotel & SPA – Giudecca, 33 • F5 San Clemente Palace Kempinski (L) – Isola di San Clemente, 1 • Off Map SINA Centurion Palace – Dorsoduro, 173 • F5 4 STAR AND LUXURY RESIDENCES A La Commedia – San Marco, 4596 • E4 A Tribute to Music – Castello, 4127 • F4 Ai Due Principi – Castello, 4972 (Fondamenta De Losmarin) • G5 Ai Mori d’Oriente – Cannaregio, 3319 (Fondamenta Sensa) • E2 Best Western Biasutti Hotel – Via Dandolo, 29 – (Lido) • Off Map Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4488 (Calle Goldoni) • F4 Bucintoro – Castello, 2135/a • H5 Ca Maria Adele – Dorsoduro, 111 • E5 Ca’ Gottardi – Cannaregio, 2283 • E3 Ca’ Nigra Lagoon Resort – Santa Croce, 927 • D3 Carlton On The Grand Canal – Santa Croce 578 • C3
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Cavalletto & Doge Orselo – San Marco, 1107 (Sotoportego del Cavalletto) • F4 Colombina – Castello, 4416 (Calle del Remedio) • F4 Concordia – San Marco, 367 (Calle Larga San Marco) • F4 Continental – Cannaregio, 166 (Rio Terà Lista di Spagna) • D3 Duodo Palace – San Marco, 1887/1888 (Calle Minelli) • D3 Foscari Palace – Cannaregio, 4200/1/2 (Campo Santa Sofia) • E3 Le Boulevard – Granviale S. Maria Elisabetta, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map Liassidi Palace – Castello, 3405 (Ponte dei Greci) • G4 Locanda Vivaldi – Castello, 4150/52 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4 L’Orologio Venezia – San Polo, 1777 (Riva del l’Ogio) • E3 NH Collection Palazzo Barocci –San Marco, 3878/A (Corte dell’Albero) • E4 Palace Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4680 (Calle dei Fabbri) • F4 Palazzetto Madonna – San Polo, 2902 • D4 Palazzetto Pisani Boutique Resort – San Marco, 2814 • E5 Palazzo Giovanelli – Santa Croce, 2070 (Campo San Stae) • E3 Palazzo Paruta – San Marco, 3824 • E4 Palazzo Stern – Dorsoduro, 2792/A • D5 Pesaro Palace – Cannaregio, 3935 (Calle Ca’ D’oro) • E3 Rialto – San Marco, 5149 (Riva del Ferro) • F4 Royal San Marco – Santa Croce, 578 • F4 Ruzzini Palace – Castello, 5866 (Campo di Santa Maria Formosa) • F4 San Marco Palace – Piazza San Marco, 875 • F4 Santa Marina – Castello, 6068 (Calle Seco Marina) • F4 Saturnia & International – San Marco, 2399 • E5 SINA Palazzo Sant’Angelo – San Marco, 3878/B – 3488 • E4 Starhotels Splendid Venice – San Marco, 760 (San Marco Mercerie) • F4 Torre Dell’ Orologio - San Marco Luxury Venice – San Marco, 288 • F4 Una Hotel Venezia – Cannaregio, 4173 (Ruga Do Pozzi) • F3 Villa Laguna – Via Sandro Gallo, 6 – (Lido) • Off Map Villa Pannonia – Via Doge Michiel, 48 – (Lido) • Off Map
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