A Place on the Platz

Atmospheric, characterful public squares are one of Berlin’s specialties. Hilda Hoy visited a few of her favorites to round up the best scenic spots for taking in some Platz charm.

Italians call it a piazza, the French a place. For the Spanish it’s a plaza, and for the Germans it’s a Platz (or Plätze, if we’re talking plural). No matter the name, the public square has long been a special feature of European urban planning, a place where neighborhood life flourishes and locals can pick up produce and flowers at outdoor markets, sun themselves, or have a coffee on the sidewalk terrace, where they might bump into a neighbor or two and stop for a chat.

To soak up a bit of distinctively Berlin local life, spend a few hours hanging out at these four charming Plätze around the city:

Ludwigkirchplatz: Charlottenburg-wilmersdorf

With beautiful green lawns, an eye-catching brick church, and historic turn-of-thecentury apartment buildings on all sides, Ludwigkirchplatz epitomizes the stately, bourgeois elegance for which this western district is known. The big playground in the middle of the Platz keeps neighborhood kids happy for hours, and the ice cream cones from Sweet2go (Pfalzburger Str. 79, www.sweet-2-go.com) are a local favorite too. Pick up a couple of the famous croissants and a coffee from Aux Delices Normands (Pfalzburger Str. 76, www. auxdelicesnormands.de) and claim a spot on a bench near the square’s majestic fountain. When it’s time for more substantial fare, grab a table on the terrace at Weyers (Pariser Str. 16, www.weyers-restaurant.de) and try some of their famous German cuisine, like cabbage rolls or pan-fried Maultaschen (akin to giant ravioli). Gourmands shouldn’t miss Maître Philippe et Filles (Emser Str. 42, www.maitrephilippe.de), the city’s best-known purveyor of French cheese and delicacies, while cigar aficionados should stop at Zigarren Herzog (Ludwigkirchplatz 1-2, www.zigarren-herzog.com) to enjoy a fine Cuban and a snifter of cognac in the smoking lounge.

Viktoria-luise-platz: Schöneberg

Manicured lawns, colorful flowerbeds, and a gushing fountain make this hexagonal Schöneberg square a sibling to Ludwigkirchplatz. Designed in 1898 and named after the then princess of Prussia, this Platz hosts a lively farmers’ market every Saturday from 10am–6pm. During the rest of the week, the park-like square is a pretty spot to catch up on some reading or simply bask on the grass or by the fountain. Get an ice cream around the corner at Viktoria Eis (Motzstr. 58, www.victoria-eis.de), or splurge on a big brunch at Russian-themed Potemkin (Viktoria-Luise-Platz 5, www. restaurant-potemkin-berlin.de), with lots of tables right on the square. If the sun and fresh air have stirred up your appetite, head to Osteria Ribaltone (Motzstr. 54, www. ribaltone.de) for a heaping plate of truffle pasta.

Kollwitzplatz: Prenzlauer Berg

Named after Expressionist artist Käthe Kollwitz, this square exemplifies what Prenzlauer Berg is best known for: cute cafés and a pleasantly yuppie, kid-friendly vibe. The biggest attractions here are the twice-weekly markets (Thursday 12pm –7pm, Saturday 9am–4pm) and the plethora of cafés and charming clothing, gift, and houseware shops to browse. Pick up some reading material down the block at St. George’s (Wörther Str. 27, www.saintgeorgesbookshop.com), one of the best English-language bookstores in the city, then tear into your new novel over coffee and brunch at Anna Blume (Kollwitzstr. 83, www.cafe-anna-blume.de) or Endlos (Knaackstr. 43-45, www.cafe-endlosberlin.de). Meat-free restaurant Lucky Leek delights both vegetarians and omnivores alike, as does the Israeli hummus at Zula (Husemannstr. 10, www.zulaberlin.com). For a special treat for the little ones, head to the Kolle 37 “adventure playground” just down the road (Kollwitzstr. 35, www.kolle37.de), where they can pick up a hammer and help build a cool wooden fort.

Hohenstaufenplatz: Kreuzberg

Also known as Zickenplatz, this square is at the heart of Kreuzberg’s most picturesque neighborhood, the Graefekiez. The scenic Landwehr Canal is just a short stroll away, as are the Turkish shops and restaurants that give Kreuzberg much of its unique character. There’s a small but thriving organic farmers’ market here every Tuesday (12–6:30pm) and Saturday (9am–2pm), and the playground has a popular zipline for kids. Right on the Platz is Le Bon (Boppstr. 1, www.lebon-berlin.com), maker of the neighborhood’s best brunch (try the eggs Benedict or shakshuka), as well as Tire Bouchon (Schönleinstr. 10), which does excellent thin-crust pizzas. Don’t forget Imren (Boppstr. 10, www.imren-grill.de), a no-frills kebab shop that makes one of the tastiest döner kebabs in the city. Make sure to pop into Jean et Lili (Dieffenbachstr. 38, www. jeanetlili.de), which is full of beautiful gift ideas and items for the home, before having a drink at Pony Saloon (Dieffenbachstr. 36, www.pony-saloon.de), a chilled-out and unpretentious local pub.