18 minute read
Sights
PICTURE PERFECT
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EDITOR’S PICK
Looking for that perfect photography moment? Try something extraordinary in the Canadian Rockies! Take a heli-hike with White Mountain Adventures (p 40) and discover the mountains far from the press of people. Get your photo with unobstructed views on a unique hike far from town. For a classic mountain shot at one of the Canadian Rockies most iconic places, take the Lake Louise & Moraine Lake Tour from Discover Banff Tours (p 42). Visit the hotspots of Lake Louise and Moraine Lake in the comfort of a shuttle and get the photos everyone wants! These busy areas may not be accessible by vehicle, making this tour the perfect solution to reaching these beautiful lakes. -TAYLOR JAINE
DIGITAL DETOX
Take a moment to reconnect with nature by taking a quiet stroll and opening up your senses. Smell the wildflowers in mountain meadows. Feel the warmth of the summer sun and watch how it speckles through the trees. Listen to the water as it trickles over the rocks. For accessible places to connect with nature, try the Fenland Loop (p 29) in Banff or the Bow River Loop by Riverside Park (p 29) in Canmore. -TJ
LEAVE NO TRACE
The sharp increase of trail users last summer resulted in a need to educate the public about etiquette. Pack out what you pack in. If the garbage bins are full, take your waste with you. On the trail, bikers yield to hikers, and everyone yields to horses. If the trailhead is full, find another trail. We have some great suggestions on p 27. With a little bit of effort, we can all enjoy beautiful Canadian Rockies. -KB
DRIVING TOURS
BOW VALLEY PARKWAY
This 48 km/30 mi drive between Banff and Lake Louise offers spectacular views. Known for animal sightings, this drive requires a slower speed limit, often 60 kmh/40 mph, to protect wildlife.
From Banff, go 30 km/18.6 mi west on Hwy 1 to the Castle Junction exit.
At Castle Mountain Viewpoint, 36 km/22 mi, take in Castle Mountain's crenelated cliffs, formed when older rock was thrust up and over younger rock.
Morant’s Curve Lookout, named after Canadian Pacific Railway photographer, Nicholas Morant, offers views of the Bow River and the railway.
The Bow Valley Parkway rejoins Hwy 1 at the village of Lake Louise.
New this year! The eastern section of the Bow Valley Parkway is closed to vehicle traffic to allow for cyclists on the road. Johnston Canyon can still be accessed by ROAM Transit (p 43) or by cycling from Banff. Park at the train station to access the Legacy Trail via Vermillion Lakes Rd. Guided e-bike tours to Johnston Canyon are available from Banff outfitters.
CANMORE TO CANMORE VIA
KANANASKIS VILLAGE 145 km/90 mi route through Kananaskis Country.
New this year! Due to the massive increase in visitors, Kananaskis Country is implementing a user fee starting June 1. $90 per family per year or $15 per day. All proceeds support conservation and maintenance in the area.
From Canmore, take the Trans-Canada Hwy east toward Calgary. Visit Bow Valley Provincial Park, 26 km/16 mi, home to the Many Springs Trail, a 2.8 km/1.7 mi loop with a riverside picnic area. Continue 4 km/2.5 mi east and take Hwy 40 south to Kananaskis.
Cross the grazing lands of the Stoney First Nation, then stop at Canoe Meadows and look for kayakers on the Kananaskis River whitewater slalom course. Continue south to Barrier Lake.
STUDY THE SKY
In 1982, the Sulphur Mountain Cosmic Ray Station was declared a National Historic Site. This station was one of nine cosmic monitoring stations built in 1956-1957 as part of Canada’s contribution to the International Geophysical Year of 1957-1958. The station is 2283 metres high, making it the highest and most important Canadian station. It helped scientists learn about supernovae, stars and the solar system. Hike to the top of Sulphur Mountain or take the Banff Gondola (p 42) to see the historic ray station and learn about its importance in Canadian history. -KATE BARKER
Kananaskis Village was built for the 1988 Winter Olympics. It has a hotel, dining, rentals and a Nordic Spa. Take a scenic stroll along the rim of the plateau.
20 km/12 mi further, Hwy 40 enters Peter Lougheed Provincial Park, just before the Grizzly Day Use Area.
Kananaskis Lakes Rd, 16 km/10 mi, is a scenic drive. Further are Elkwood and Boulton Creek Campgrounds. The area is a wetlands habitat. Find walking trails and fishing at Upper Kananaskis Lake.
Turn left at Smith-Dorrien/Spray Tr to return to Canmore. Most of the 60 km/37 mi road is rough. Follow Spray Lakes for 20 km/12.5 mi before a steep, switchbacked decent to Canmore.
ICEFIELDS PARKWAY
230 km/143 mi route between Lake Louise and Jasper that traces the Continental Divide. See glaciers, rugged peaks and wildlife. Find picnic sites, camping, hiking and climbing. Access the parkway from Hwy 1 west of Lake Louise. Hector Lake, 16 km/10 mi, has great views of Mt Balfour and Waputik Range.
At Bow Lake, 33 km/21 mi, Bow Glacier meltwaters cascade down massive cliffs. Left is the Crowfoot Glacier that was once shaped like a crow’s three toes. Stay at the historic Num-Ti-Jah Lodge for a unique backcountry experience.
Bow Summit, 40 km/25 mi, is the highest point on the Parkway at 2068 m/6875 ft. The viewpoint overlooks Peyto Lake, which is known for its wolf's head shape. Interpretive signs give insights on mountain guide Bill Peyto and the history of the lake.
Continue to Mistaya Canyon and Saskatchewan River Crossing, 77 km/48 mi, and find gas, dining, a gift shop and lodging. See the nearby confluence of the Saskatchewan, Howse and Mistaya Rivers.
TWENTY DOLLAR VIEW
Situated in the Valley of the Ten Peaks, impressive Moraine Lake is a highlight of any visit to the Canadian Rockies. Take the short path up the Rockpile Trail to witness the Twenty Dollar View, named because it was on the back of Canadian $20 bills printed between 1969 and 1979. Many popular hikes beginning at Moraine Lake cross prime grizzly territory and certain trail restrictions are in place throughout the summer. Moraine Lake is accessible via the Parks Canada shuttle bus. Prebooking is required to access this busy summer tourist
spot! -TAYLOR JAINE
Detour 45 km/28 mi east on Hwy 11 to the staging area for Rockies Heli Canada (p 40) tours and heli-hikes. The town of Rocky Mountain House is 135 km/84 mi further east.
Back on the Parkway, the Weeping Wall, 103 km/64 mi cliffs are streaked with waterfalls fed by Cirrus Mountain meltwaters. Walk the moderate Parker Ridge Trail, 116 km/72 mi for Saskatchewan Glacier views.
A highlight of the parkway is the Columbia Icefield, 127 km/79 mi, that covers 215 sq km/83 sq mi and is over 250 m/800 ft deep. Its meltwaters flow west to the Pacific, north to the Arctic, and east to Hudson’s Bay. This hydrological apex is one of two in the world; the other is in Siberia. Six major glaciers flow from the icefield.
At the Athabasca Glacier, you can walk to the glacier toe or take a guided ice walk and discover the importance of glaciers in the mountain environment. Across the road, the Glacier Discovery Centre has lodging, dining and gifts.
Take the shuttle to the cliff edge Glacier Skywalk and discover the canyon from a whole new perspective. From the Centre it’s 103 km/64 mi further to Jasper, route description on p 77.
KANANASKIS LAKES TRAIL TO HIGHWOOD PASS
Closed to June 15. Follow Hwy 40 south past Kananaskis Lakes Tr, along Canada’s highest paved road.
From the King Creek picnic site, rise to Elpoca Viewpoint, a picturesque picnic area with a short walk down a steep bank to Opal Falls. Farther along, Gap Mountain rises to the east.
Past Little Highwood Pass picnic site is Elbow Pass picnic area and the easy trail to Elbow Lake. Walk farther to the alpine meadows and Rae Glacier. Next is Rock Glacier with a 10 min interpretive walk explaining the huge slowly moving rock pile. Stop at Highwood Meadows picnic site, which has an interpretive wetlands boardwalk and access to the Ptarmigan Cirque trail. Take the steep path to the ridge-ringed wildflower meadow.
At 2206 m/7239 ft Highwood Pass, you’re 105 km/63 mi south of Hwy 1. Return the way you came or continue to Longview and the foothills.
LAKE LOUISE & AREA 57 km/35 mi west of Banff is Lake Louise, a charming resort village established during the construction of the railway.
New this year! Lake Louise is notoriously difficult to access with a vehicle. Paid parking is in effect from 7 am-7 pm for $11.70.
Save money, time and frustration by prebooking your Lake Louise and Moraine Lake shuttle to guarantee access to this beautiful location. Shuttle fees are $8 per adult, $4 per senior, $2 per youth and children under 6 ride free. Moraine Lake and Lake Louise connector shuttles are included with your reservation.
The first right on Lake Louise Dr leads to the Lake Louise Visitor Centre. The centre has geological and historical exhibits and is beside Samson Mall.
There are walking trails on both sides of the Bow River. 5 km/3 mi on Lake Louise Dr is the lake and Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise, a grand hotel built by the Canadian Pacific Railway.
The lakeshore promenade offers renowned views of Lake Louise and Victoria Glacier. The Lake Agnes Tea House is a 3.5 km/2.2 mi hike from the Chateau.
At Moraine Lake, a trail leads to the top of the rock pile for the best view of the lake and surrounding Valley of the Ten Peaks. Several stunning walks begin from the café at Moraine Lake Lodge.
Backtrack over Hwy 1 to Whitehorn Rd and the Lake Louise Gondola (p 42) for views, food, hiking and displays.
LAKE MINNEWANKA LOOP
16 km/10 mi circuit that accesses Lake Minnewanka, the largest lake in Banff National Park. There are historic sites, picnic areas and trails.
From downtown, take Banff Ave north past Hwy 1 to Cascade Ponds, a picnic spot with shelters and fire pits.
Continue clockwise to the Lower Bankhead interpretive trail with coal mine ruins. Upper Bankhead, 2.9 km/1.8 mi, is formerly the site of miners’ homes.
Walk the 4.2 km/2.6 mi C Level Cirque Trail past mine ruins and viewpoint to a basin on Cascade Mountain.
At Lake Minnewanka, 2 km/1.2 mi, you can fish, rent boats or take a cruise. Scuba dive to a submerged ghost town.
On the north shore is the Lake Minnewanka Trail, popular for hiking but closed to cyclists and dogs from July 10 to Sept 15.
Continue south to Two Jack Lake or detour left to Johnson Lake for a picnic, lakeside trails and swimming. The north section of the road is closed Nov to Apr to protect wildlife.
BIKING ROUTES
Lake Minnewanka Loop (above) and the eastern section of the Bow Valley Parkway (p 25) are good road routes with great views and the chance to see wildlife. See p 35 for rentals.
BANFF LEGACY TRAIL Paved pathway spans 22 km/14 mi from the Banff Park East Gate to the Bow Valley Parkway. The trail also links the 4.5 km/3 mi from the Banff Park East Gate to the Travel Alberta Info Centre in Canmore.
BILL MILNE BIKE PATH 9.7 km/6 mi easy trail crosses the Kananaskis River. From Kananaskis Village ride the paved route down the bench to Wedge Pond.
CANMORE NORDIC CENTRE World class mountain bike trails vary in length and difficulty. There are paved routes, engineered hardcore single-tracks and a skills park. Trail Sports (p 36) offers rentals and lessons on-site.
BEAR NECESSITIES
The Canadian Rockies are home to numerous species, large and small. While many people love seeing bears in the mountains, it’s important to remember we are visiting their home! In order to keep bears in the wild, we can all do our part. Pack out what you pack in, travel in groups and make lots of noise so bears know you’re coming. If you do see a bear, do not approach! Back away slowly and have your bear spray ready. Find bear spray at Standish Home Hardware (p 47) or Bactrax (p 45) in Banff, and Valhalla Pure Outfitters (p 49) or Canadian Tire (p 50) in Canmore. -KATE BARKER
GOAT CREEK TRAIL 18 km/11 mi backcountry route from Canmore to Banff on old fire roads. Mostly downhill with creek crossings. Begin 9 km/5.6 mi west of Canmore via Spray Lakes Rd and end at the Fairmont Banff Springs.
HIGH ROCKIES TRAIL 82 km/50 mi moderate trail over rolling terrain. Access at Goat Creek, Driftwood Buller, Black Prince or Kananaskis Lakes. Trail runs from Goat Creek to Elk Pass.
SUNDANCE TRAIL 2 km/1.2 mi easy paved route beside the Bow River. Start at the Cave and Basin. An easy 1 km/0.6 mi climb ends at a picnic area. Walk 20 min to Sundance Canyon, where bikes are not allowed.
THREE SISTERS VILLAGE TRAIL
6 km/4 mi easy, mostly paved trail along the Bow River with mountain views. The trail starts south of Canmore’s Bow River bridge and goes east to Stewart Creek Golf Course. TRAMLINE TRAIL 5 km/3 mi moderate trail follows 1913 tram route from the railway station. Cross Louise Creek to the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise.
VERMILION LAKES 5 km/3 mi easy paved trail along three lakes to wildlife wetlands. Access from Banff townsite.
HIKING TRAILS
BARRIER LAKE TRAILS 2.3 km/1.4 mi easy route from the Kananaskis Field Station. Two loops pass WWII POW camp remains. Bikes not permitted.
BOURGEAU LAKE/HARVEY PASS
9.5 km/6 mi moderate to difficult trail that starts 13 km/8 mi west of Norquay Rd. Climb from Wolverine Creek Valley to the lake.
CHESTER LAKE 4 km/2.5 mi moderate switchback trail up an old logging road to the cliff-flanked lake. Stray Lakes Tr, 20 km/12mi from Kananaskis Lakes Tr. Bikes permitted on first 2 km/1.2 mi only.
SKI HILL SUMMER
The snow has melted for the season but that doesn’t mean the ski hills are closed! At Lake Louise Summer Gondola (p 40), take the gondola to the mountaintop for a birds-eye-view of the jaw dropping scenery. Visit the Wildlife Interpretative Centre to learn about local wild residents, hike through alpine meadows for exclusive views or dine on excellent food while enjoying expansive patios. There's plenty of free parking at the base of the mountain for day visitors. -KATE BARKER
CONSOLATION LAKES 3 km/1.9 mi easy walk from Moraine Lake to Consolation Lakes. Scramble the rockslide for the best view. Bikes not permitted.
ELBOW LAKE/RAE GLACIER
4 km/2.5 mi moderate trail to Elbow Lake, a popular spot for camping and fishing. Follow the south side of the lake to a Rae Glacier view. Access from Hwy 40, 62 km/38.5 mi south of Hwy 1.
GRASSI LAKES 2 km/1.2 mi easy trail rises to an impressive cliff face and clear, spring-fed lakes framed by mountains. Rock stairs cut by Lawrence Grassi lead to a bridge over Canmore Creek. New this year! Limited parking means planning ahead to see this popular spot. Park at the Canmore Nordic Centre or ride to the trailhead. Bikes not permitted on the Grassi Lakes trail.
GROTTO CANYON TRAIL
4 km/2.5 mi easy hike to Grotto Falls and beyond to a cave. See rock climbers and Indigenous pictographs. Avoid during high water. Bikes not permitted.
JOHNSON LAKE TRAIL
3 km/1.9 mi easy loop that circles the lake through old-growth Douglas fir forest. See iconic vistas of famous mountains. Bikes not permitted.
JOHNSTON CANYON 1.1 km/0.7 mi easy interpretive trail. Walk on catwalks anchored to the walls. See the Lower Falls through a natural rock arch before continuing to the Upper Falls and the Ink Pots springs. Bikes not permitted. New this year! The eastern section of the Bow Valley Parkway is closed to vehicle traffic. Access Johnston Canyon by biking from Banff, taking ROAM Transit (p 43) or with an e-bike tour from White Mountain Adventures (p 40).
LAKE AGNES TEAHOUSE TRAIL
3.5 km/2.2 mi moderate walk to a lovely hanging valley above Lake Louise. The trail rises from the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise to Mirror Lake. A short, steep hike by a waterfall leads to the Lake Agnes Tea House. You can relax here or continue to Beehive Moountain lookouts. MARBLE CANYON 0.8 km/0.5 mi easy trail that follows glacier-fed Tokumm Creek from Hwy 93S over seven footbridges. Views of the narrow limestone and dolomite chasm, up to 39 m/128 ft deep. Bikes not permitted.
MARL LAKE 3.6 km/2.2 mi easy paved loop through lodgepole pines with lake views. Start at Elkwood Campground off Kananaskis Lakes Tr, 56 km/35 mi south of Hwy 1. Bikes not permitted.
MARSH BOARDWALK 0.5 km/0.3 mi easy interpretative loop winds through wetlands with abundant wildlife. Start at the Cave and Basin. Continue to Discovery Boardwalk, 4 km/2.5 mi, to the cave vent and hot springs. Continue along the Bow River to Sundance Canyon, 4.3 km/2.7 mi. Bikes permitted on paved portions of the trail.
PARADISE VALLEY/GIANT STEPS
10.3 km/6.4 mi moderate trail that rises to Lake Annette with views of Mt Temple and Horseshoe Glacier. Go right to the Giant Steps Staircase waterfall. Access 2.5 km/1.5 mi along Moraine Lake Rd near Lake Louise.
PLAIN OF SIX GLACIERS 5.3 km/3.3 mi moderate walk starting at the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise. Climb to the Plain of Six Glaciers Teahouse via the Highline Trail. See quartzite cliffs, a terminal moraine and the ice cave by the glacier's toe. Bikes not permitted.
TROLL FALLS 1.8 km/1.1 mi easy walk by forests and meadows to waterfalls. Start at the Stoney Trailhead off the Nakiska/ Kananaskis Village access road. Bikes not permitted.
TUNNEL MOUNTAIN 2.3 km/1.4 mi moderate trail that rises through forests with views of the Fairmont Banff Springs Golf Course and the townsite of Banff. Watch for rock climbers. Access from St Julien Rd. Bikes not permitted.
UPPER KANANASKIS LAKE
16 km/10 mi easy, scenic loop around the lake. A 3 km/1.9 mi spur from the south portion climbs to Rawson Lake by towering Mt Sarrail. Start at Kananaskis Lakes Tr, 51 km/32 mi south of Hwy 1. Bikes not permitted.
PICNIC SITES
BOW LAKE 33 km/21 mi north of Lake Louise on the Icefields Parkway. Stunning views of Crowfoot Glacier.
CASCADE PONDS Across Hwy 1 from the town of Banff. Pretty spot with shelters, fire pits, views and trails.
CENTRAL PARK Downtown Banff by the Bow River. Large grassy space with gazebo for music. Riverside trails.
JOHNSON LAKE On the Minnewanka Loop. Easy walking trails and swimming.
LAKE MINNEWANKA Views of the region’s longest lake. Snack bar, cruise, boat rentals available.
QUARRY LAKE Busy family favourite with a sandy beach, swimming, trails, mountain views and a dog park. New this year! Parking passes are required for summer 2021. $20 for 4 hours of parking during peak season, $10 for non-peak season.
RIVERSIDE PARK On the Bow River near downtown Canmore. Enjoy mountain views and multi-use trails.
WEDGE POND Hwy 40, 34 km/21 mi south of Hwy 1. A trail circles the pond with interpretive signs and Wedge Mountain views.
CORRAL CREEK South of Lake Louise via the Bow Valley Parkway by a stream with fire pits and great views.
TOWNSITE WALKS
BANFF WALKING TOUR Begin at Central Park. Enjoy a riverside picnic or visit the Banff Park Museum with 100-year-old animal displays and history of the wildlife and ecology in Banff National Park.
Stroll north along the Bow River Promenade past the Banff Canoe Club (p 36). Continue to the Fenland Loop Trail that follows Echo Creek and the Vermilion Lakes wetlands animal habitat.
Return to Central Park and cross the Bow River Bridge towards the Parks Administration Building with the Cascades of Time Gardens.
MOUNTAIN STORIES
Discover the secrets of the mountains with an interpretative hike. Learn about the rise and fall of Bankhead, a coal mining town in the early 1900s, on an easy trail along the Lake Minnewanka Loop (p 27). Discover the natural phenomenon of rock glaciers with a quick interpretative trail on the Kananaskis Lakes drive. Walks at the Cave and Basin (p 28) feature stories about Banff's unique hot springs and tropical wildlife that live in the warm waters. -TAYLOR JAINE
Return to the river. Go right/east for a riverside walk to Bow Falls and the historic Fairmont Banff Springs hotel.
Or, go left/west and walk Sundance Trail along the river to the Cave and Basin with historic exhibits, boardwalks, cave vent and a warm water marsh.
En route is the Buffalo Nations Museum (p 31), the Recreation Grounds with sports fields, picnic tables, fire pits, gazebo and a skate park, and historic Warner Stables, home of Banff Trail Riders (p 41).
Free maps for self-guided Banff townsite tours are available at the Banff Visitor Centre on Banff Ave.
Banff Historic Walking Tour is a selfguided tour visiting 57 homes from 1887, museums, churches, and public buildings with interpretive plaques.
Banff Culture Walk is a tour of the galleries, museums and historic sites within the townsite.
CANMORE WALKING TOUR
Discover Canmore’s history and natural beauty with a downtown tour. Start at the Northwest Mounted Police Barracks, 609 Main St. This 1893 log cabin, tearoom and heritage garden was restored to its 1921 state with exhibits on the NWMP.
Head south on Main St to Ralph Connor Memorial United Church built in 1891 by Charles W Gordon, Canada’s first bestselling author under the pen-name Ralph Connor.
Turn right at 7 Ave to find the Canmore Museum & Geoscience Centre, with exhibits on the town’s history, including a virtual reality exhibit of a coal mine. One block west is artsPlace, a performance, art, workshop and movie venue.
Backtrack and go south on 7 Ave to 7 St and the 1913 Miners Union Hall, now a community and cultural centre. Return to Main St and go west to its end at Riverside Park for a stroll north to the 1919 CPR Trestle Bridge.