Where Guestbook Hawai'i (Big Island) 2018-2019 by Where Guestbook Hawaii

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HAWAI‘I ®

ISLAND

HAWAI‘I ISLAND GUESTBOOK is part of a series of four books that Where® Hawai‘i will release on all the major Hawaiian Islands in 2018-2019, including Maui, O‘ahu and Kaua‘i. Each island will be represented with its own unique, iconic landscape image as the cover art. These books

K A U A‘I

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are designed to entertain and educate visitors about

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each respective island, and to tell the stories of Hawai‘i in an engaging and artistic manner. We hope

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you enjoy the book as much as we took pleasure in wheretraveler.com

writing about Hawai‘i’s treasures, places and people.

L E G E N DA RY SHOPPING & DINING

New Cultural Exhibits throughout the center in partnership with Bishop Museum Located in Waikoloa Beach Resort | Big Island | KingsShops.com | 808.886.8811

Paintings. Collages. Prints. Private Studio located at 67-1233 Mamalahoa Highway Kamuela, HI 96743 By Appointment Only (808) 987-0357 www.maryspears.com

HAWAI‘I ISLAND CONTENTS

ISLAND ESSENCE 30 LONG LIVE HŌKŪLE‘A EPIC JOURNEY An excerpt from Patagonia’s “Mālama Honua: Hōkūle‘a— A Voyage of Hope.” TEXT BY JENNIFER ALLEN PHOTOS BY JOHN BILDERBACK

BIRDS OF PARADISE DISCOVER HAWAI‘I’S PRECIOUS AVIFAUNA Hakalau Forest National Wildlife Refuge is home to such native Hawaiian honeycreepers as the crimson ‘apapane, Himatione sanguinea; the greenish-yellow Hawai‘i ‘amakihi, Hemignathus virens; and the scarlett, curved-beak ‘i‘iwi, Vestiaria coccinea. BY GINA BAILEY

W H E R E G U E ST B O O K

ON THE COVER At 14,000 feet above sea level, there is 40 percent less oxygen than at sea level, so visitors should acclimatize to the altitude before proceeding further up Mauna Kea. ©Chris Clor/Getty Images INSIDE FRONT COVER Astronomers from around the world explore the universe from the summit of Mauna Kea. ©Robert Harding/Alamy Stock Photo

The Original Wave Collection

An incomparable collection of Hawaiian and Island lifestyle jewelry BIG ISLAND OF HAWAII Kona Marketplace • Kings’ Shops • Hilton Waikoloa Village OAHU • MAUI • KAUAI • NCL PRIDE OF AMERICA

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HAWAI‘I ISLAND CONTENTS

ISLAND ESSENTIALS 14 FIRST LOOK HAWAI‘I ISLAND’S ATTRACTIONS Iconic sights and island views that are not to be missed. KEALAKEKUA BAY: The only underwater state park on the island. MAUNA KEA: Many nations have built observatories on this pinnacle. VOLCANOES NATIONAL PARK:

Home to two active volcanoes: Kīlauea and Mauna Loa.

PUAKŌ PETROGLYPH PARK: One of two petroglyph fields north of Kailua-Kona.

‘IMILOA ASTRONOMY CENTER:

‘Imiloa means “to seek far” and is the Hawaiian word for both “explore” and “explorer.” HILO’S FARMERS MARKET: A great way to experience Hawai‘i Island. PARKER RANCH: One of the largest ranches in the entire United States. WAPI‘O VALLEY: “The Valley of the Kings” is a lush mountainous region.

56 PARTING SHOT OVER THE RAINBOW One of the most easily accessible waterfalls on Hawai‘i Island, Rainbow Falls is just a quick five-minute drive from downtown Hilo. On sunny days, rainbows appear in the mist of the 80-foot falls.

SPECIAL SECTION DINING IN PARADISE Learn about Hawai‘i’s popular fish and imbibe on a classic Blue Hawai‘i or tropical mai tai. BY SIMPLICIO PARAGAS

W H E R E G U E ST B O O K

Horizon Pendant with Lapis Inlay and Pavé Diamonds

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MVP HAWAI‘I SALES OFFICE 677 Ala Moana Blvd., Suite 700 Honolulu, HI 96813 Phone: 808.955.2378; Fax: 808.955.2379 www.wheretraveler.com Where GuestBook® is produced by Morris Visitor Publications (MVP), a division of Morris Communications, Co., LLC. 725 Broad St., Augusta, GA 30901, morrismedianetwork.com. Where® magazine and the where® logo are registered trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications. MVP publishes Where magazine, Where® QuickGuide, IN New York, and IN London magazines, and a host of other maps, guides, and directories for business and leisure travelers, and is the publisher for the Hospitality Industry Association. Where GuestBook® publishes editions for the following U.S. cities and regions: Arizona, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charlotte, Chicago, Colorado, Dallas, Florida Gold Coast (Fort Lauderdale & Palm Beach), Fort Worth, Island of Hawai‘i, Houston, Jacksonville/St. Augustine/Amelia Island, Kansas City, Kaua‘i, Los Angeles, Maui, Miami, Nashville, New Orleans, New York, Northern Arizona, O‘ahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Reno/Lake Tahoe, San Antonio, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle/The Eastside/ Tacoma, Southwest Florida (Naples), Tampa Bay, Tucson, Washington D.C. ©2019 by Morris Visitor Publications. All rights reserved. This publication may not be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, in whole or in part, without the express prior written permission of the publisher. The publisher assumes no responsibility to any party for the content of any advertisement in this publication, including any errors and omissions therein. By placing an order for an advertisement, the advertiser agrees to indemnify the publisher against any claims relating to the advertisement. In Hawai‘i, Where Guestbook is pleased to be a member of the Hawai‘i Visitors and Convention Bureau and the Concierge Association of Hawai‘i. Printed in the United States.

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W H E R E G U E ST B O O K

The Original Waterfall Collection

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FIRST LOOK

©VLAD TURCHENKO/ALAMY

From an underwater park to cascading waterfalls, Hawai‘i Island offers dramatic landscapes across its seven main regions.

W H E R E G U E ST B O O K

Kealakekua Bay

The typical Hawaiian backdrop includes the golden yellow brilliance of our sunsets against an ever-changing scroll of clouds seeping into the deeper hues of the ocean. But beneath the surface of crystal blue is a world of tropical fish in every color, size and shape darting in and out of the intricate weavings of a diverse coral life. Kealakekua Bay, the only underwater state park on Hawaiâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;i Island, boasts 100 feet of visibility, pristine water conditions and a guaranteed exhilarating snorkeling experience year-round.

Mauna Kea

PHOTO CREDIT GOTHAM BOOK 5.5/9PT

Mauna Kea was a landmark for Polynesian voyagers, and was most likely the first sight ancient travelers espied when approaching the Hawaiian Islands. This massive mountain thrusts its summit 13,796 feet into the atmosphere, making it one of the planet’s best venues for stargazing. Many nations have built observation stations on this pinnacle, with 13 telescopes from 11 countries in operation. The Mauna Kea Observatory is located at the 4,200-foot level—a location that’s dry and ideal for conducting astronomy research—and houses the world’s largest observatory for optical, infrared and submillimeter astronomy.

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(OPPOSITE) ©ALVIS UPITIS/ALAMY; (THIS PAGE) ©GREG VAUGHN/ALAMY

FIRST LOOK

Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park

Forced to close in May after unprecedented volcanic activity threatened public safety, and damaged park roads, waterlines, buildings and trails, Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park once again welcomes visitors. Established in 1916, the Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park is home to two active volcanoes: Kīlauea and Mauna Loa. Crater Rim is an approximately 5,000-acre historic district in and around the Kīlauea Caldera. Tourists come to check out the hiking trails and camp grounds, and learn about the cultural heritage. Visitors are especially interested in learning about the Hawaiian fire goddess named Pele, who lives within the fiery pit. Many who’ve taken photos of the volcano erupting, claim to see her figure within the lava. The Volcano Art Center, which is near the park, houses historical displays and artwork. For your convenience, park passes may now be purchased online. For more information and price of admission, call 808.985.6000 or go to nps.gov/havo/index.htm. WHERE GUEST B OOK

FIRST LOOK

While petroglyphs, or lava rock carvings, are found throughout the state, the largest concentrations are located north of the Mauna Lani Resort. Although the actual meanings cannot be determined, symbols of human forms, families, dancers, paddlers, deities, canoes, turtles, chickens and even dogs suggest that these etches once marked important events that occurred in the lives of those who left them. Bring plenty of water and wear closed-toe shoes on the dry .7-mile hike to the site.

‘Imiloa

Originally called the Maunakea Astronomy Education Center, ‘Imiloa Astronomy Center of Hawai‘i was developed in the mid-1990s by a team of educators, scientists and community leaders who understood the need for a comprehensive educational facility that would showcase the connections between the the traditional methods of ancient Native Hawaiian astronomy and the groundbreaking research conducted at the summit of Mauna Kea. ‘Imiloa is a place of lifelong learning where the power of Hawai‘i’s cultural traditions, its legacy of exploration and the wonders of astronomy come together to provide inspiration and hope for generations. 18

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(FROM TOP) ©ANDYSARTWORKS/SHUTTERSTOCK; ©TOR JOHNSON/HAWAII TOURISM AUTHORITY

Puakō Petroglyph Park

Collection available exclusively at Na Hoku

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FIRST LOOK

Hilo’s Farmers Market

Parker Ranch

Up north in the district of Waimea, undulating hills roll into the horizon. This is Hawai‘i’s cowboy country and home of Parker Ranch, one of the largest—and oldest—ranches in the United States. Learn about the story of the Hawaiian paniolo (cowboy) at the Parker Ranch Museum and Visitor Center, or book a horseback riding tour. The Parker Ranch Store offers a variety of paniolo-themed souvenirs. 808.887.1046, ParkerRanch.com. 20

W H E R E G U E ST B O O K

(FROM TOP) ©WILDROZE/ISTOCK; ©PARKER RANCH

A trip to the Farmers Market isn’t just a great place to cast your gaze over the range of local produce or a chance to stand in wonder at the exotic fruits and vegetables. It’s not just delightful smells, but it’s one of the few opportunities to really experience Hawai‘i Island. The market is open every day, but the best days to go are Wednesdays and Saturdays. Farmers arrive at the break of dawn and set up their booths by 6 a.m. Get there early, as the saying in the Farmers Market is open from “dawn till gone.” Historic downtown Hilo, 808.933.1000

FIRST LOOK

Known as “The Valley of the Kings,” this lush mountainous region on the northern Hāmākua Coast spans approximately one mile across and measures more than five miles deep. Set amid 2,000-foot-high cliffs, the area was the boyhood home of King Kamehameha I and the epicenter of political and religious life on Hawai‘i Island. Today, fewer than 100 people reside here, living among the waterfalls, taro fields and rivers that permeate the valley. Hawai‘i Island’s tallest waterfall, Hi‘ilawe Falls, plummets 1,300 feet below at the back of Waipi‘o. The trail to the falls is unmaintained and dangerous so hikers, beware. 22

W H E R E G U E ST B O O K

©TONYCATALDO/ISTOCK

Waipi‘o Valley

Expect the Unexpected! The Waimea General Store has been a local favorite since 1970 and family owned since 1976. But if you’re expecting aisles of soda, sunscreen, and flip flops, be prepared for a surprise! This old style, wood floored, vintage store is stocked with Crabtree & Evelyn, locally made soaps and lotions, an array of kitchen tools, Le Creuset, Hawaiian books including children’s and cookbooks. Browse an array of fun cards, gifts, elegant paper goods, candles, cotton kimonos, local jams, and chocolates, and have it gift wrapped free. This fun, relaxed store is sure to become your favorite place to visit whether you’re visiting from near or far! LOOK FOR THE ‘NENE' SIGN AT PARKER SQUARE ~ OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK! www.waimeageneralstore.com

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Hōkūle‘a turning downwind in the Kaiwi Channel and completing the final leg back to Honolulu.

E OLA MAU ‘O HOKULE‘A LONG LIVE HOKULE‘A After three years circumnavigating the globe, Hōkūle‘a and sister ship Hikianalia successfully return to Hawaiian waters. TEXT BY JENNIFER ALLEN

THE WIND IS QUIET. THE WATERS, STILL. THE ONLY RIPPLES ARE those following children on paddleboards, making large, awestruck circles around the double-hulled sailing canoe, Hōkūle‘a. Lei maile drape the hulls. Ti-leaf garlands hang on the bow. Sails remain wrapped and tied around the masts. In full wind, those sails will billow into a 50-foot spray of crimson, the color of a Hawaiian king’s feathered cloak. Hōkūle‘a has been harbored here in Palekai, a springfed cove near Hilo for nearly a week now. Merchant ships, cargo containers, and petroleum tanks surround this lavarock girded bay. Hōkūle‘a seems like an island unto herself, undaunted, anchored, awaiting the winds to sail. It has been a big-sun day, with a sharp horizon, and no sight of clouds. Her captain is barefoot in blue jeans, adjusting the lines that swing the boom. His name is Charles Nainoa Thompson. He’s known as Nainoa. Nainoa has been navigating Hōkūle‘a for thirty-five years now, more than half his lifetime.

PHOTOS BY JOHN BILDERBACK

“You do not tell the winds what to do,” Nainoa has told his crew. “The winds tell you what to do.” Right now, the winds say, wait. The wait has allowed many things. It has allowed locals to stream into Palekai, dawn to dusk, with offerings. Busloads of school children have come, gifting lei, candied ginger, and poi for the crew. Paddlers have come by outrigger, just to have a look, all sharing the venerable greeting of honi with captain and crew, touching forehead to forehead, nose to nose, breathing in the same breath, sharing hā, sharing spirit. A pastor brought a hand-sewn silk flag that reads, Hae O Ke Aloha—His Love Is The Banner Over Us—to wave alongside the flag of Hawai‘i on the mast. The Hawaiian flag has yet to be raised. It, too, awaits the winds. The wait is teaching patience. Patience is key when you are about to launch on a three-year global voyage. First stop—Tahiti, two wind systems and 2,500 nautical miles away. In sailing to Tahiti, Nainoa will trace the same path WHERE GUEST B OOK

“Eddie had wanted to go to the land of his ancestors, to educate new generations, to bring dignity back to our kūpuna, our ancestors.”

W H E R E G U E ST B O O K

Polynesians sailed centuries ago when they explored and settled these islands. Like his forefathers, Nainoa will rely on the wind, moon, swells, birds, fish, and stars as guides. Using traditional wayfinding skills, Hōkūle‘a will be sailed through and eventually beyond Polynesia, crossing the Indian and the Atlantic Oceans, to connect with communities who care for the health of the oceans and our shared island, Earth. The mission is aptly called Mālama Honua—to Care for the Earth. “Caring for the earth is in the traditions of Hawaiian ancestors for the world to use,” Nainoa says of his homelands. “Hōkūle‘a is the needle that collects the flowers that get sewn into a lei by Hawai‘i and gives it to the earth as an act of peace.” This act of peace continues to pour into Palekai even as the sun lowers over the mountains. The limping man with the koa-branch cane, the mother with the baby on her hip wrapped in a sarong, the fisherman steaming oysters, the farmer offering fresh kalo, the woman giving lomilomi massages … they continue to come, paying respects to Hōkūle‘a, the mana, the spirit of the Islands. Hōkūle‘a is the Hawaiian name for Arcturus, the star that sits at the zenith above Hawai‘i. The fisherman opens the oysters and places them onto a tablecloth-covered card table. It is dinnertime, and another captain, this one named Bruce Mealoha Blankenfeld, has just now stepped ashore. Bruce shares hā with the fisherman before diving in, dousing his oyters with chili-lime sauce. He smiles, nods, eats. Island-born and ocean-bred, Bruce has the broad build of a long-distance paddler and the steady gaze of a man who has studied miles of horizons. His palms are wide, worn, and strong from years of building and restoring Hōkūle‘a. From the hulls to decks, crossbeams to booms, his hands have worked and sanded and seamed her into a watertight vessel. Bruce will captain and navigate Hikianalia—just behind

Hōkūle‘a—to Tahiti. Hiki is a hybrid canoe, half-tradition/ half-modern, sailed in the ancient navigational way but with sixteen solar panels that power motors. Hikianalia is the Hawaiian name for Spica, the star that rises alongside Hōkūle‘a in the Hawaiian skies. In the low-lying sun, Hikianalia glides into Palekai. The crew is returning after practicing safety drills through the afternoon. Bruce watches as a crewmember tosses a rope to Nainoa and his crew aboard Hōkūle‘a. They bind the canoes, side-by-side, like sisters together for the night. There will be a hilo—a new moon—tonight. The skies will be dark, the stars, bright. The wind remains unchangingly still. “We just need a little bit of wind,” Bruce says, with a knowing smile. “A bit of wind to give us a good push.” IF YOU ARE LOOKING for the Southern Cross, just ask Nainoa. North Star, Hōkūpa‘a; Sirius, ‘A‘a; or Procyon, Puana: all you have to do is ask. Nainoa can show you where these stars and hundreds more rest in the nighttime sky. He can show you how he measures their movements, using his palm like a sextant along the horizon. He has been “calibrating” his hand for many seasons now, long before he was married and the father of five-year-old twins, Nai‘noa and Puana. “I am old,” he says. But he hardly seems so, with an agile grace that allows him to walk hands-free along the narrow safety rails, the palekana, of the canoe. For Nainoa, wayfinding has become a journey into his ancestral past. “We must now sail in the wake of our ancestors—to find ourselves,” Nainoa says, of the crossing to Tahiti. Hōkūle‘a was originally built with the clear desire to help Hawaiians find their path. By the 1970s, the culture of sailing canoes had “been asleep,” as Bruce likes to say, for over six hundred years. But in 1973, three men founded the Polynesian Voyaging Society—artist and historian Herb Kawainui Kāne, expert

(Previous spread, from left) In memory of Eddie Aikau; Pwo navigator Nainoa Thompson; Hōkūle‘a’s lashing to hull. (This spread) Hōkūle‘a out in the open seas.

waterman Tommy Holmes, and anthropologist Ben Finney. They wanted to prove that Polynesians were once master ocean navigators who purposely found and settled the Hawaiian Islands. They wanted to dispel the myth that Polynesians had happened onto Hawai‘i by drifting aimlessly along currents. They wanted to resurrect navigational knowledge and to revive the culture that had been diluted by colonization. Hula was forbidden. Songs of the sea had been translated to suit tourists in Waikīkī. The native language was a whisper. When people lose their dance, songs, and language, they risk losing their history and narratives—a part of their collective soul. The Polynesian Voyaging Society wanted to help Hawaiians rediscover their strength, wisdom, and spirit. The plan was to build a replica of a voyaging canoe and sail her across the trades to Tahiti. They researched the massive double-hulled sailing canoes of eastern Polynesia, designed to transport several thousand pounds of people and goods. They looked to oral, written, and drawn historical records in Hawai‘i—including petroglyphs—to study the shape of the canoe and its sails. From this, they built Hōkūle‘a, a sixty-two-foot long wa‘a kaulua, double-hulled canoe, using plywood, fiberglass, and resin, with twin masts, claw sails, no motor, a sweep as a rudder, and a twenty-foot broad deck, all held together by eight cross beams and five miles of lashings. But to make the passage authentic, they needed to sail without modern navigational instruments. They needed someone to lead them, someone who could, as Bruce explains, “pull us through the curtain of time” so that Hawaiians could relearn what had been known centuries ago. Opening that curtain of time meant traveling to the coral atoll Satawal, in the Central Caroline Islands of Micronesia. There lived Pius ‘Mau’ Piailug, a master navigator known as a Pwo. Only a handful of Micronesians still knew the art of wayfinding, and none, other than Mau, were willing to share it outside their community.

Mau knew a navigational system that modern sailors had never before seen. It was something that Nainoa, then a twenty-three-year-old crewman, yearned to understand. “If you can read the ocean,” Mau would say, “you will never be lost.” Mau could read and discern eight separate patterns of ocean swells. Lying inside the hull, feeling the various waves hitting it, he could know the direction of the winds and the direction to steer the canoe. At dawn, he would study the horizon and predict the weather for the day to come. At dusk, he would predict the weather for dawn. And in the midst of a gale-swept, stormy night, days away from any safe harbor or land, Mau could steady the mind of any novice navigator—he could look the man in the eye, and with an unflinching gaze, tell him, “You are the light, you have the light within you to guide your family home.” Some called it magic. Bruce calls it being maka‘ala—vigilant, observant, awake. In May of 1976, Mau safely guided Hōkūle‘a to Tahiti in thirty-one days. Upon entering the bay of Pape‘ete, the canoe was greeted by more than 17,000 Tahitians, over half the population, welcoming her and her crew … home. Two years later, Hōkūle‘a embarked on another voyage to Tahiti—but without Mau. Both Bruce and Nainoa were on board when she capsized in thirty-foot swells, only hours after her launch out of Ala Wai Harbor in Honolulu. Without an escort boat, the crew sat on upturned hulls from midnight to sunset the following day, lighting flares in hopes that ship or airplane captains might see them. One crewmember, the legendary big-wave rider and lifeguard at Waimea Bay, Eddie Aikau, convinced Captain Dave Lyman to allow him to paddle on a surfboard to find help on Lāna‘i, some fifteen nautical miles away. Nainoa can still see Eddie taking off his life vest in order to freely paddle into a wind so fierce that the salt from the waves was blinding.

“Can you point to the way of Tahiti? Can you see the island? See the vision of the island rising from the sea. If you don’t have a vision, you will be lost.”

WHERE GUEST B OOK

“Hōkūle‘a is the needle that collects the flowers that get sewn into a lei by Hawai‘i and gives it to the earth as an act of peace.”

W H E R E G U E ST B O O K

The crew was eventually rescued. Eddie was never found. Nainoa understood why Eddie wanted to voyage to Tahiti. Eddie’s passion was not for his own glory but rather a reflection of his reverence for the past and his hope for the future. “Eddie had wanted to go to the land of his ancestors, to educate new generations, to bring dignity back to our kūpuna, our ancestors,” Nainoa remembers. Eddie’s legacy is why the Polynesian Voyaging Society continues to sail today. Eddie is why Bruce volunteered to help rebuild the severely damaged canoe. Eddie is why Nainoa went to Satawal to ask Mau to teach him Polynesian wayfinding. Until a Hawaiian could sail Hōkūle‘a, the quest would not be fulfilled. Nainoa needed to learn the skills of Oceania and then share this knowledge with future generations. Mau knew that a Pwo must pass the wisdom on. He also knew that wayfinding was on the verge of disappearing in his own islands. Mau then asked his own teacher, his grandfather, for permission to share these lessons. His grandfather agreed, reminding Mau that the Hawaiians were, after all, part of the Polynesian family. Positioning stones, shells, and palm fronds in the sand, Mau re-created a star compass for Nainoa. Mau taught him how to identify the stars as they rose up out of the ocean and then dove back in. Mau showed him how to decipher wind systems, how to understand sea birds flying to and away from land, how to interpret clouds. Mau taught him how to study the shape of the ocean and read the “character” in the waves. Mau taught him how to discern the varying widths and hues of the sun’s path along the waves. Mau was teaching him the language of the navigator—what Mau called the “talk of the sea.” Just as the Hawaiian god Maui is said to have fished the Hawaiian Islands out of the ocean, Nainoa would now need to pull Tahiti out of the sea. In “An Ocean in Mind,” author Will Kyselka renders the

multilayered teachings of Mau and their limitless affect on his student, Nainoa. “Can you point to the way of Tahiti?” Mau asked Nainoa during the last lesson of his two years of study. The teacher and student were observing the sky at Lāna‘i lookout, a coastal perch on the southeastern shore of O‘ahu. Nainoa pointed to the direction of Tahiti. Then Mau asked another question, one that required a deeper knowing. “Can you see the island?” Nainoa couldn’t literally see the island but he could, he told his teacher, see “an image of the island in my mind.” “Good. Keep the island in your mind,” Mau told him, “otherwise you will be lost.” “See the vision of the island rising from the sea,” Mau would often remind Nainoa. “If you don’t have a vision, you will be lost.” In 1980, with Mau on board, Nainoa safely navigated Hōkūle‘a to Tahiti. In doing so, Nainoa became the first Hawaiian to make a noninstrument passage from Hawai‘i to Tahiti since the fourteenth century. Since then, Hōkūle‘a has become the heart of the Hawaiian renaissance and, in the last forty years, she has sailed over 140,000 nautical miles of the vast Pacific, igniting a revival of sailing canoes throughout Polynesia, and igniting a voyaging revival that now includes twenty-eight wa‘a kaulua, voyaging canoes. In 2014, Hōkūle‘a, along with sister ship Hikianalia, set sail for Polynesia, marking the beginning of a three-year voyage that would cover a distance of 45,000 nautical miles. In June 2017, the two wa‘a returned to Hawaiian waters, concluding their “Malama Honua” (Care for the Earth) journey and tying the ends of their “Lei of Hope” around the world. Adapted from Mālama Honua: Hōkūle‘a — A Voyage of Hope (© 2017 Patagonia). Used by permission.

(Opposite page) The rigging for Hōkūle‘a’s mast; (This page, clockwise from top) Homecoming in June 2017; Taievau Maraetaata drapes lei over the bow; hoe uli.

BIRDS OF PARADISE Protecting Hawai‘i’s precious avifauna.

We see them around us. We hear their songs and whistles. And in Hawai‘i, we revere our avifauna for their beauty and their rarity. This year marks the centennial of the Migratory Bird Treaty Act (MBTA), the most powerful and important bird-protection law ever passed. In honor of this milestone, National Geographic, the National Audubon Society, the Cornell Lab of Ornithology and BirdLife International will collaborate with more than 100 other organizations and millions of people around the world to celebrate 2018 as the “Year of the Bird.” “We need to continue to protect and preserve our endangered species,” says Jack Jeffrey, who was the first 42

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biologist for the Hakalau Forest National Wildlife Refuge on Hawai‘i Island. “Since I moved here in the ’70s, I’ve seen eight bird species go extinct and many more are critically endangered.” Signed into law in 1918, the MBTA is among the oldest wildlife protection laws on the books. Its creation was one of the National Audubon Society’s first major victories and, in the years since its enactment, the MBTA has saved millions, if not billions, of birds. Yet, despite its importance in the history of the conservation movement, many people may not truly know what the MBTA is, what it protects and what types of activities fall under the law. Stated most simply, the MBTA is a law that protects

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TEXT BY GINA J. BAILEY

(Opposite page) The nēnē is Hawai‘i’s official state bird. (This page) The rare ‘amakihi, an endemic honeycreeper, perches on a branch.

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birds from people. When Congress passed the MBTA in 1918, it codified a treaty already signed with Canada (then part of Great Britain) in response to the extinction or near-extinction of a number of bird species, many of which were hunted either for sport or for their feathers. Birds, along with plants and insects, first came to Hawai‘i on their own, with a new species able to evolve every 20,000 to 40,000 years. These few surviving birds adapted to their environment and became better suited to thrive in their new island home. Recent DNA evidence

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Known as ‘auku‘u in Hawaiian, the majestic blackcrowned night heron is a nocturnal feeder, which is not often seen by the public.

shows a single colonization of a finch-like bird from Asia as the parent of Hawaiian honeycreepers. This original bird came to Hawai‘i five to six million years ago and, over time, developed into a unique sub-family of birds with more than 60 species. Hawai‘i’s indigenous birds—those who got here on their own but are also found elsewhere—can be spotted at all elevations. Most of these natives, like the blackcrowned night heron, Nycticorax nycticorax, live here all the time. Found worldwide, this bird is locally called a “fish hawk” since it hunts near seaside ponds, aquaculture farms and streams. Birds who migrated here on their own and evolved to be different from any other species on the planet are Hawai‘i’s endemic birds. They live only in Hawai‘i, and possess Hawaiian names. Perhaps the most well-known is Hawai‘i’s endangered state bird: the nēnē, Branta sandvicensis. Measuring between 24 and 27 inches in length, the nēnē has a black head and bill, buff cheeks, a neck with dark furrows and partially webbed black feet. Its vocalizations are similar to those of the Canadian goose, but also give a low murmuring “nay” or “nay-nay” call— hence its name. Nēnē, which live at all elevations, are also growing in numbers. This endangered species is given broad protection under law to recover to a self-sustaining population. They are thought to have made landfall in the Hawaiian Islands some 890,000 years ago, and the population grew to an estimated 25,000 geese. About 1,000 years ago, the number of nēnē began a steep decline. “The bird’s plight had become so grave by 1949 (20 to 30 birds in the wild), that a captive propagation program was initiated,” says Dr. Steven Hess, USGS wildlife biologist stationed at the Pacific Island Ecosystems Research Center at Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park (HVNP). Hess credits “decades of captive breeding, releases into the wild, habitat management and predator control” for restoring 900 nēnē to Hawai‘i Island, and 2,000 statewide, with the rest on Maui, Moloka‘i and Kaua‘i.

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to protect and preserve our endangered species. Since I moved here in the ’70s, I’ve seen eight bird species go extinct, and many more are critically endangered.” The ‘i‘iwi, or scarlet honeycreeper is a “hummingbirdniched” species, which is found only in the forests of the Hawaiian Islands.

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Hawai‘i’s endemic forest birds are far more elusive, living only in the upper mountain forests where preferred native plants still thrive and where colder temperatures deter disease-carrying mosquitoes. Located on the windward slope of Mauna Kea, the 32,733-acre Hakalau Forest National Wildlife Refuge (NWR) supports a large diversity of native birds and plants, equaled by only one or two other areas in Hawai‘i. It is home to such native Hawaiian honeycreepers as the crimson ‘apapane, Himatione sanguinea; the greenish-yellow Hawai‘i ‘amakihi, Hemignathus virens; and the scarlett, curvedbeak ‘i‘iwi, Vestiaria coccinea. Listed as an endangered species in 1967 under the Federal Endangered Species Act, the ‘akiapōlā‘au, Hemignathus munroi, is a highly specialized Hawaiian honeycreeper, meaning it only feeds on one kind of insect (wood-boring larvae) from one type of tree. And it can only be found in the high elevation ‘ōhi‘a-koa forests on Hawai‘i Island. “These birds are famous for their specialized bills, which have a long, decurved upper mandible and a short woodpecker-like lower mandible,” explains Jeffrey of the ‘akiapōlā‘au. “It uses its lower bill to peck and find the wood-boring beetle larvae, then it reaches into the hole

with its long, thin, curved upper bill to hook the insect and pull it out. Parenting fledglings takes up to a year since it takes time for them to learn how to use their bills.” The 32,733-acre Hakalau Forest National Wildlife Refuge was established in 1985 to protect and manage endangered Hawaiian forest birds and their rainforest habitat. Of particular concern was the ‘alalā (Corvus hawaiiensis), whose wild population, known only on the west side of Hawai‘i Island, gradually declined to only a single pair in 2002. After 1993, the wild population of ‘alalā was observed intensively, and they were not seen after June of that year. As of 2008, approximately 50 ‘alalā are in captivity at the Keauhou and Maui Bird Conservation Centers on Hawai‘i and Maui islands, respectively. According to the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service, more than 400,000 koa, ‘ōhi‘a and other native flora have been planted in this area as part of the refuge’s reforestation program and Comprehensive Conservation Planning. “Public awareness is the greatest asset to Hawai‘i’s imperiled species,” Jeffrey asserts. “I feel that I’m doing my best to ensure that Hawai‘i’s people and visitors from around the world will continue to have opportunities to enjoy these colorful forest treasures for many generations to come.”

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“We need to continue

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PARTING SHOT

Over the Rainbow WIDELY KNOWN AS RAINBOW FALLS, WAIĀNUENUE IS LOCATED IN HILO AND IS EASILY ACCESSIBLE. WATER CASCADES OVER A LAVA CAVE

IS HOME TO THE ANCIENT HAWAIIAN GODDESS HINA, THE GODDESS OF THE MOON. 56

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THAT, ACCORDING TO LEGENDS,

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New wave sushi at SANSEI Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar

BOUNTY OF SEAFOOD A TALE OF TWO COCKTAILS RESTAURANT GUIDE

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HAWAI‘I

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS

EDITORIAL & DESIGN SENIOR EDITOR

Simplicio Paragas

ASSITANT EDITOR Jasmine Hu

ART DIRECTORS Chris Cardelli, Veronica Montesdeoca

MVP | EXECUTIVE PRESIDENT Donna W. Kessler

CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER Dennis Kelly

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DIRECTOR OF CIRCULATION Scott Ferguson

MVP | CREATIVE CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER Haines Wilkerson EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Margaret Martin

DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY Isaac Arjonilla

D4 BOUNTY OF THE SEA HAWAI‘I’S FAVORITE FISH When dining out, be sure to ask your server for the day’s fresh catch, which can range from yellowfin tuna to opah.

CREATIVE COORDINATOR Beverly Mandelblatt

MVP I MANUFACTURING & PUBLICATION SERVICES DIRECTOR OF MANUFACTURING Donald Horton

PUBLICATION SERVICES DIRECTOR Karen Fralick PUBLICATION SERVICES MANAGER

Cher Wheeler

DIGITAL IMAGING & RETOUCH Erik Lewis

E-MAIL FOR ALL OF THE ABOVE: FIRSTNAME.LASTNAME@MORRIS.COM

BY SIMPLICIO PARAGAS

D12 A TALE OF TWO COCKTAILS THE MAI TAI AND BLUE HAWA‘I These two quintessential tiki cocktails have been around for more than six decades and they still remain as popular today as they did when they were first introduced.

ADVERTISING JAMES G. ELLIOTT CO., INC. EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR Pat O’Donnell

REGIONAL VICE PRESIDENT, SALES Courtney Fuhrmann

GROUP PUBLISHER William A. Moore III, b.moore@jgeco.com HAWAI‘I SALES DIRECTOR Leianne Pedro, l.pedro@jgeco.com ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES

Donna Kowalczyk, d.kowalczyk@jgeco.com Nicholas Riopelle, n.riopelle@jgeco.com

BY SIMPLICIO PARAGAS

D20 DINING GUIDE

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New wave sushi at SANSEI Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar

BOUNTY OF SEAFOOD A TALE OF TWO COCKTAILS RESTAURANT GUIDE

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Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar is known for its “New Wave” sushi. ©Steve Czerniak

677 Ala Moana Blvd., Ste. 810 Honolulu, HI 96815 Phone: 808-955-2378; Fax: 808-955-2379 www.wheretraveler.com DINING IN PARADISE® is produced by Where®Hawaii, a division of Morris Communications, Co., LLC. 725 Broad St., Augusta, GA 30901. Where® magazine and the where® logo are registered trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications. MVP publishes Where magazine, Where® QuickGuide, IN New York, and IN London magazines, and a host of other maps, guides, and directories for business and leisure travelers, and is the publisher for the Hospitality Industry Association. On Hawai‘i Island, DINING IN PARADISE is pleased to be a member of these following associations: MVP IS A PROUD SPONSOR OF LES CLEFS D’OR USA

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BOUNTY OF THE SEA Hawai‘i’s surrounding waters teem with schools of tropical fish. BY SIMPLICIO PARAGAS

It’s 5:30 on a Tuesday morning and the clang of a brass bell echoes, signaling the start of the bidding war at the Honolulu Fish Auction on Pier 38. Huddled around pallets of freshly off-loaded fish, chefs and fishmongers bid on thousands of pounds of big-eye and yellowfin tuna, marlin, opah, swordfish, mahimahi, ono and much more. Some of the fish are destined for nearby restaurants while others will be exported to the outer Hawaiian islands, the mainland and other countries.

“There is a method to the madness,” says Brooks Takenaka, general manager of the United Fishing Agency, which has operated the auction since 1952. “And the auction doesn’t end until all the fish are gone.” As fish are sold, pallet jacks dart in and out of the auction area. Local fishmonger Guy Tamashiro does the same. His family’s popular namesake market in Kalihi carries some of the freshest fish on the island, thanks to the auction. “I’m here at 5:30 in the morning,

One of the more popular fish in the islands, mahimahi possesses a delicate flavor and is best eaten when fresh.

In Hawai‘i, “ahi” refers to two species: the bigeye and the yellowfin tuna. Most of Hawai‘i’s tuna is caught by deep-set longline fishing gear off shore.

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six days a week,” says Tamashiro, whose grandparents, Chogen and Yoshiko, opened their first market in Hilo in 1941. “The auction is great because I get to select the fish I want. I get to physically see and touch the fish.” Fishing was vital in old Hawai‘i. Skilled lawai‘a (fishermen) were deeply revered in the community

and those who could supply large amounts of fish from ponds or catches at sea were believed to possess mana kupua, or supernatural power, to attract fish at will or make them multiply. Some fish were harvested in loko‘ia (fishponds); others were pulled from the ocean. In their infancy, fishponds were built by ali‘i (chiefs) so they could stock the brackish waters with fish and raise them for later consumption during the winter months when deep-sea fishing was perilous. “The loko‘ia wasn’t to replace fishing; it was to supplement it,”

“We’ve got some of the best fish. And the auction is one of the best venues to show people the quality of Hawai‘i’s fish.”

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palani, aholehole, moi, kokala, kākū and papio. The 25-year, long-term goal is to be able to stock the pond and have it serve as a model of sustainability, while simultaneously restoring the eco system in the ahupua‘a (land division) of He‘eia. “Who knows if we can reverse the environmental damage already done?” Kawelo asks. “But we’re pretty stubborn and we’re just going to do it. It’s a question of what is it that we want our kids to remember? Do we want to tell them that we were part of restoring this ancient fishpond? Or, do we want to tell them that we didn’t do anything to help?” Local chefs are also doing their part to support the local seafood industry. In addition to popular ahi, opakapaka, ono and mahimahi, they are starting to use the lesser known fish, such as monchong (sickle pomfret), opah, hebi, nairagi (striped marlin), uku (blue-green snapper), hapu‘upu‘u (sea bass), onaga (long-tail red

On a good day, almost 60,000 pounds of fish—from ahi to opah—will be sold at the Honolulu Fish Auction at Pier 38 in Honolulu, O‘ahu.

says Angela Hi‘ilei Kawelo, executive director for Paepae o He‘eia, a private non-profit organization that works in partnership with landowner, Kamehameha Schools, to manage and maintain He‘eia Fishpond in Kāne‘ohe Bay for the community. “It was sustainable aquaculture, although I doubt kupuna (elders) were thinking green when they built these ponds.” Located on the windward side of the island, He’eia Fishpond is a kuapā-style (walled) fishpond enclosing 88 acres of brackish water. Built approximately 600800 years ago, the fishpond is possibly the longest in the island chain measuring approximately 7,000 feet long and 12-15 feet wide, and forms a complete circle around the pond. By allowing both fresh and salt water to enter the pond, the water environment is brackish, and therefore conducive to the growth of certain types of limu, which can feed schools of herbivorous fish, such as ‘ama‘ama, awa, pualu,

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snapper) and ulua. Each has a unique taste and texture. So whether you choose sashimi-style with shoyu and wasabi, grilled with garlic or pan-fried in a buttery basil sauce, you’re sure to find a taste to suit your palate. Fishing for some types of local fish is restricted at times by the state, so availability may be affected. Ask your waiter if opah, ulua or hebi is a catch of the day. If so, place an order. And don’t wait for dinner. Island fish and eggs make a great breakfast; a fresh fish sandwich on the beach

can’t be beat; and raw fish, sashimi, is our all-time favorite pūpū. “We’re lucky because we’ve got some of the best fish in the world,” Takenaka says. “And the auction is one of the best venues to show people the quality of Hawai‘i’s fish.” Honolulu Fish Auction tours are available, by reservation only, on select Saturday mornings from 6-7:30 a.m. Cost is $25 for adults and $20 for kids 8-12 years old. Tours are not generally scheduled mid December to mid January. hawaiiseafood.org/auctiontour

A close-up look of the tail of an opah or moonfish, which is one of the most colorful of the commercial fish species available in Hawai‘i.

A TALE OF TWO COCKTAILS The mai tai and Blue Hawaiâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;i are steeped in legendary lore. BY SIMPLICIO PARAGAS

They’re no longer just bars but liquid kitchens. And they’re not bartenders; they’re mixologists. For the past decade, the art of crafting a cocktail has been an intoxicating trend to watch—and sip. Bitters, sours and just about every ingredient has been muddled, coated, dusted, frosted and flamed to achieve some form of magical elixir. And while the cocktail landscape may have changed, the Blue Hawai‘i and the mai tai still remain the preferred libations among many of our visitors. Considered the godfather of Hawaiian cocktails, Harry Yee—who celebrated his 100th birthday in September—is credited with having helped spread tiki bars and tiki culture during the mid-20th century, both in Hawai‘i and in the continental United States. With orchids, parasols and even a Chinese back scratcher as garnishes, the exotic drinks of our islands are some of the most unusual in the world. Yee created 15 of them, including the Banana Daiquiri and Tropical Itch. He invented the Blue Hawai‘i in 1957 in Waikīkī because nobody knew what to do with blue Curaçao. This mellow, fruity electric blue libation is just a little older than Hawaiian statehood, preceding Elvis Presley’s movie and subsequent hit song by the same name. Slide aside the island garnishes (paper parasol, pineapple, orange wheel or perhaps a big Hawaiian blossom) and

experience the liquid version of that melancholy serenade to the tropics, full of exotic pineapple and tart orange notes. There are many variations on the recipe for this drink—a subject of slight controversy—ranging from light rum to dark rum, and sometimes including Crème de Coconut or coconut rum. Then, of course, there’s the age-old dilemma: to blend, or not to blend? Its hue will vary, just like our Hawaiian waters, but the color is always unmistakably blue. “Those days when tourists came in, they said, ‘Give me a Hawaiian drink,’” Yee was quoted by author Rick Carroll. “We didn’t have any Hawaiian drinks. There were no such things as exotic drinks. Or tropical drinks from Hawai‘i. So we started thinking, gee, we better start making something for the tourists—something catchy, not too strong and nice to sip.” In oft-cited cocktail lore, the late Vic Bergeron of Trader Vic’s fame is credited with creating the mai tai. In a 1947 book, “The Trader Vic’s Bartender’s Guide (Revised),” Bergeron explained how, in 1944, after success with several exotic rum drinks, he felt a new drink was needed. “I thought about all the really successful drinks—martinis, Manhattans, daiquiris, all basically simple drinks,” Bergeron wrote. “I took down a bottle of 17-year old rum. It was J. Wray & Nephew 14

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from Jamaica—surprisingly golden in color, medium bodied but with the rich pungent flavor particular to the Jamaican blends.” He infused the rum with fresh lime, orange Curaçao from Holland, a dash of rock candy syrup and a dollop of French orgeat for a subtle almond flavor. He then added a generous amount of shaved ice and shook it vigorously by hand to produce “the marriage” he was after. The San Francisco native gave the first two to friends Eastham and Carrie Guild from Tahiti. They took one sip and said: “Mai tai roa ae.” In Tahitian, this means “out of this world, the best.” And a legend was born. In 1953, Bergeron introduced the mai tai to

Two of the more quintessential cocktails of the 1950s “tiki culture,” the Blue Hawai‘i and mai tai continue to be popular among visitors.

Harry K. Yee’s Original Blue Hawai‘i In a 12-ounce glass, add ice, then pour, in this order: • 3 ozs. fresh pineapple juice, • 1 oz. sweet and sour • 1/2 oz. blue Curaçao (preferably Bols) • 3/4 oz. vodka • 3/4 oz. Puerto Rican rum (“It’s a better taste,” Yee says.) Stir gently, garnish with pineapple slice and vanda orchid. Vic Bergeron’s Original Mai Tai In a shaker, add: • 1 oz. lime juice, • 1/4 oz. orgeat syrup • 1/2 oz. orange Curaçao • 1/4 oz. simple syrup • 1 oz. aged Jamaican rum • 1 oz. Martinique agricole rhum

Hawai‘i at the Royal Hawaiian and Moana hotels in Waikīkī. “There’s been a lot of conversation over the beginning of the Mai Tai,” Bergeron told Carroll. “And I want to get the record straight. I originated the Mai Tai.” Another story involves Trader Vic’s amicable rival, Don the Beachcomber, who claimed he created the mai tai first in 1933 at his newly opened bar in Hollywood. 16

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The Beachcomber’s recipe is more complex than that of Trader Vic’s, calling for both dark and golden rum, Angostura bitters, anise-flavored liquor and Falernum—a Caribbean syrup that is now difficult to obtain. Today, the mai tai is served throughout the Islands, and Hawai’i Island’s mixologists have also come up with their own unique variations. Cheers!

Shake all ingredients over ice, pour into a double old-fashioned glass. Fill to rim with crushed ice. Garnish with a spent lime shell (peel side up) and a sprig of mint.

The modern mai tai is no longer garnished with a pink parasol but with fresh flowers and mint leaves.

LIMU LOVE Hawai’i’s entire marine ecosystem rests in the coils of limu: The island’s main source of food for our marine life. BY KRISTEN NEMOTO JAY

Fresh ahi poke is often garnished with limu.

PHOTOS BY ISAAC ARJONILLA

Lifetime memories of Hawai‘i are often built around a visitor’s experience with our island’s ocean life. There’s one’s first humpback whale sighting during the winter season; a snorkel adventure with underwater friends at Kealakekua Bay; or a wave hello to the Hawaiian monk seal or the state fish (humuhumunukunukuāpua‘a) at the Waikīkī Aquarium. What many don’t realize, however, is that the very existence of any marine life within Hawai‘i, or throughout the world, has been made possible by one of the most overlooked ingredients of the ocean’s entire ecosystem: limu. Hawaiian word for “algae,” limu is one of the most important components in Hawai‘i’s culture and yet the most neglected. Wally Ito, the Limu Hui coordinator for Kua‘aina Ulu ‘Auamo (KUA), says that it has a lot to do with an out of sight out of mind concept and a lack of interest for something that seems obsolete. “Most people want to protect the whales, the dolphins and the fishes,” Ito says. “While that’s all very important, we forget about the number one reason why they’re all alive and that is the food that they eat.” Ancient Native Hawaiians used limu extensively for cultural practices, and it was an important part of the Hawaiian diet. Ito says that most will say it was “fish and poi” as the staple diet, but many have forgotten that there was limu to go along with the pairing. Limu was used for women who had difficulty conceiving, and as a diet supplement for iron loss during a woman’s menstruation cycle. Limu was also used as a symbolic gesture for peace

and forgiveness. When a conflict between two parties was resolved, each side would place a limu kala haku lei (a crown made out of limu) on their heads and walk into the beach’s ocean until the haku floated off their heads. Once that was done, it was a symbol for all to be forgiven and forgotten. Unfortunately, due to urban development, climate change and improper harvesting throughout the years, there has been a tremendous decrease in limu resources throughout the Islands. A loss of passed down ancestral knowledge has also led to a disconnect between generations, a problem that Ito and The Limu Hui focused on and addressed in 2014. At the request of many kūpuna (elders), who gathered and took care of limu throughout the islands, KUA partnered with the ‘Ewa Limu Project to “gather the gatherers” with hope to share and discuss their knowledge of harvesting and protecting limu traditions. Today, with the help of Ito, KUA, the ‘Ewa Limu Project and the Limu Hui, there’s awareness that’s being shared with schools, nonprofits, researchers and whoever else would like to learn more about the Islands’ most underrated—yet vital—piece of marine life aquaculture. “Limu is the base of the marine food system,” Ito asserts. “Without limu, our fishes wouldn’t be able to survive, and then it affects everything else after that. We wouldn’t be able to survive without our marine life. Hawai‘i wouldn’t survive. So our awareness is key. Knowledge and learning from our ancestors is the most important component to our survival.” D I N I N G I N PA R A D I S E

Serving “Aloha” 24-7-365

1730 Kamehameha Ave. Hilo

808-935-8711 | kenshouseofpancakes.com

RESTAURANT GUIDE AMERICAN

Hawai‘i Calls Restaurant & Lounge (Waikoloa Beach Marriott Resort & Spa) Serving daily breakfast buffet, seafood specialties, sandwiches and tropical drinks. 69-275 Waikoloa Beach Dr. (808) 886-8111 marriott.com B, L, D, C, B/W Ken’s House of Pancakes This 24-hours-a-day, sevendays-a-week island institution is well beloved among locals and visitors alike. As its name suggests, pancakes are its specialty, although there’s a lot more to like on the menu. 1730 Kamehameha Ave., Hilo (808) 935-8711 kenshouseofpancakes.com B, L, D, C, B/W Naupaka Beach Grill (The Westin Hapuna Beach Resort) Enjoy respite from the warm tropical sun with a delicious burger, island salad or sandwich and cooling umbrella drink or local beer poolside at Naupaka Beach Grill. In the evening, relax over a casual dinner with a backdrop of live Hawaiian entertainment and sunset over the blue horizon. 62-100 Kauna‘oa Dr., Waimea (808) 880-1111 marriott.com L, D, C, B/W Ruth’s Chris Featuring the finest USDA Prime steaks, fresh island seafood, award-winning wine list, and a wide variety of appetizers, side dishes and desserts. Shops at Kukui‘ula, 2829 Kalanikaumaka Rd., (808) 278-6100 ruthschris.com D, C, B/W

FRENCH

The Blue Room Brasserie & Bar (The Shops at Mauna Lani) A French restaurant reminiscent of a Parisian brasserie with Hawaiian influence in both food and culture. Enjoy dining inside or outside in the tropical courtyard. 68-1330 Mauna Lani Dr. (808) 887-0999 theblueroomhi.com L, D, C, B/W

D I N I N G I N PA R A D I S E

HAWAI‘I REGIONAL

Ahualoa Farms The name of Ahualoa is a Hawaiian word that means “Long Cloud”—an appropriate description of the afternoon weather pattern of the Hāmākua Coast above Honoka’a Town. Bring home some hand-picked and roasted macadamia nuts and perfectly roasted coffees. 45-3279 Mamane St. (808) 775-1821 ahualoafarms.com Retail Big Island Candies Chocolates and baked treats are all prepared with freshly roasted Big Island macadamia nuts and 100 percent pure Kona and Ka‘u coffee. A wide selection of shortbread cookies are edible souvenirs. 585 Hinano St. (808) 935-8890 bigislandcandies.com Self-guided tour, Retail Brown’s Beach House (Fairmont Orchid) A winner of the AAA Four Diamond, Brown’s Beach House is well known for its Hawai‘i Regional Cuisine. Innovative cuisine draws from locally grown produce and a diverse variety of fresh seafood. Nightly Hawaiian music. 1 North Kaniku Dr. (808) 887-7368 fairmont.com/orchid-hawaii D, C, B/W Copper Bar (Mauna Kea Beach Hotel) Tapas and entrees crafted with local ingredients, and cocktails handmade by Copper mixologists are perfectly paired with enduring panoramic views at lunch, dinner and anytime in between. Nightly music with hula from 5:30 until 8:30 p.m. 62-100 Mauna Kea Beach Dr. (808) 882-5707 maunakeabeachhotel.com L, D, C, B/W Don the Beachcomber (Royal Kona Resort) Kick back and enjoy the vibrant food and drink scene in the bold Tiki architecture and tropical, open-air ambiance. The cuisine is inspired by a fusion of fresh local

ingredients, European techniques and Asian influences. 75-5852 Ali‘i Dr. (808) 930-3286 royalkona.com B, D, C, B/W Hau Tree (Mauna Kea Beach Hotel) Step off the beach and into the open-air Hau Tree for a causal dining menu which includes sandwiches, wraps, hamburgers, salads, ice cream, our famous Ovaltine Froth, or a cooling Fredrico cocktail. 62-100 Mauna Kea Beach Dr. (808) 882-5707 maunakeabeachhotel.com L, D, C, B/W Hula Hulas (Grand Naniloa Hotel) Focused on farm-to-fork cuisine, sourcing local ingredients whenever possible. Belly up to the expansive bar or grab a seat in the lounge with live music stage. Patio seating offers views of Hilo Bay. 93 Banyan Dr. (808) 932-4545 hulahulashilo.com B, L, D, C, B/W Ippy’s Hawaiian BBQ Diners can look forward to brined rotisserie chicken basted in a tangy homemade teriyaki sauce, furikake mahimahi burger, miso fried chicken, barbecue ribs and more, served with Ippy’s specialty sauces and homestyle gravies. Queens’ MarketPlace 69-201 Waikoloa Beach Dr. (808) 886-8600 L, D Kawaihae Seafood Bar & Grill Settle in at the bar or enjoy your meal on the lānai. Chef Aaron Barfield’s philosophy is to keep flavors clean and simple. Menu highlights include the poke burger, gingersteamed clams, Cajun-style fresh catch, lobster-and-crab pot pie, prime rib and braised Asian barbecue short ribs. 61-3642 Kawaihae Rd. (808) 880-9393 seafoodbarandgrill.com B (Su), L, D, C, B/W Kona Coffee & Tea Now in its 20th year, this family-operated business offers 100 percent Kona cof-

fee, which is grown on the slopes of Hualalai then milled, roasted, brewed and served, all within a 10-mile radius from the farm. 74-5035 Queen Ka‘ahumanu Hwy., (808) 329-6577 74-5588 Palani Rd. (808) 365-5340 konacoffeeandtea.com B, L, B/W Meridia (The Westin Hapuna Beach Resort) Mediterranean-inspired cuisine is created with locally sourced ingredients and infused with our island’s rich bounty. Meridia’s fresh seasonal menu is complemented by al fresco seating, a charcuterie and crudo bar, and housemade artisanal bread nook. Come in for a sunset cocktail or late night handcrafted libation. 62-100 Kauna‘oa Dr., Waimea (808) 880-1111 marriott.com D, C, B/W Mountain Thunder Free daily coffee farm tours are held every hour on the hour, from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. 73-1942 Ha‘o St. (808) 443-75935 mountainthunder.com Daily Tours Nori’s Saimin and Snacks Owner Beth An Nishijima is known to prepare the best saimin in town. Choose from a variety of noodles, including spinach and buckwheat. The extensive menu also features entrees, sandwiches, side dishes, desserts (try the chocolate mochi) and edible gifts for your friends and family back home 688 Kino’ole St., Hilo (808) 935-9133 norishilo.com L, D, B/W Original Hawaiian Chocolate Factory, The The OHCF plantation and factory tours are offered

KEY TO DINING ABBREVIATIONS: Service: (B) Breakfast; (Br) Brunch; (L) Lunch; (D) Dinner; (C) Cocktails; (E) Entertainment; (B/W) Beer & Wine.

Keauhou Shopping Center 78-6831 Alii Drive. STE.402, Kailua-Kona

808.322.8424

www.royalthaicafe.com Tuesday to Friday, 11am-9pm Saturday & Sunday, 12pm-9pm

FRESH, AUTHENTIC THAI

Come to Royal Thai Cafe to taste for yourself!

RESTAURANT GUIDE

Sam Choy’s Kai Lani As one of the founders of the Hawai‘i Regional Cuisine movement, Sam Choy has been an advocate for farmers, ranchers and fishermen since the 1990s. Must-tries include the macadamia-nut-crusted chicken or fresh catch, Sam’s island poke, Kona orange duck and braised short ribs. Don’t forget to order one of the signature cocktails from The Short Bait Bar. 78-6831 Ali’i Dr. (808) 333-3434 samchoyskailanai.com B, L, D, C, B/W Sunset Lū’au (Waikoloa Beach Marriott Resort & Spa) Billed as Hawai’i Island’s most authentic lū‘au show at sunset, the entertainment takes guests on a journey to Tahiti, New Zealand, Samoa and Hawai’i through the songs and dances of these Pacific island cultures, including the spellbinding Samoan fire knife dancing. 69-275 Waikoloa Beach Dr. (808) 886-8111 marriott.com D, Mondays, Wednesdays Ulu Ocean Grill “R.S.A. —Regional, Seasonal and Artisanal”—cuisine is served alongside the surf and under the stars at this awardwinning restaurant, where 75 percent of the food comes fresh from the ocean and local farms. Signature dishes include the Hawaiian ahi poke, fresh snapper and black pepper Prime New York steak. 72-100 Ka‘upulehu Dr., Kailua-Kona (808) 325-8000 fourseasons.com/hualalai B, D, C, B/W

D I N I N G I N PA R A D I S E

Volcano Winery Tropical fruits are blended with traditional grapes, and transformed into vibrant wines. Standard tasting costs $5 and $8 for premium. 35 Piimauna Dr. (808) 967-7772 volcanowinery.com Tastings, Retail

ITALIAN

Al Vicolo Italian Restaurant If you’re craving authentic Italian cuisine, you’ve come to the right place. The dishes are made with imported Italian meats and cheeses. 1-3642 Kawaihae Rd. (808) 882-1200 L, D, C, B/W Mi’s Waterfront Bistro Chef Morgan Starr puts a lot of Italian amore in his dishes. His sauces are robust and all homemade. Menu highlights include pappardelle of beef, rigatoni with Hamakua mushrooms, herb-and-cheese ravioli, spaghetti alla Bolognese, island-style cioppino, porcinicrusted pork scallopini and the signature tiramisu. 75-5770 Ali‘i Dr. (808) 329-3880 miswaterfrontbistro.com L, D, C, B/W Romano’s Macaroni Grill Casually elegant Italian restaurant serving handcrafted pastas, entrees, brick-oven pizzas and a diverse wine list. 201 Waikoloa Beach Dr. (808) 443-5515 macaronigrill.com B, L, D, C, B/W

JAPANESE

Monstera (The Shops at Mauna Lani) The restaurant is a playful mix of classic and contemporary Japanese cuisine in a hip, casual and intimate setting. 68-1330 Mauna Lani Dr., #111 (808) 887-2711 monsterasushi.com D, C, B/W Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar (Queen’s Marketplace) Chef D.K. Kodama’s “new wave sushi” has won accolades from both local and national media, including Travel + Leisure. The nigiri sushi, rolls, appetizers and entrees are

artfully presented and combine bold flavors and textures. Try the panko-crusted ahi, flash-fried and wrapped in arugula and spinach; crab ramen with truffle broth; or the fresh fish of the day. 201 Waikoloa Beach Dr. (808) 886-6286 sanseihawaii.com D, C, B/W

PACIFIC RIM

A-Bay’s Island Grill (Kings’ Shops) A family friendly restaurant that serves local favorites, seafood and Pacific Rim cuisine. The dinner menu lists such dishes as sautéed ono served with a brown butter caper sauce, peppercorn-crusted New York steak, grilled blackened ahi steak and fish tacos. 250 Waikoloa Beach Dr., #J106 (808) 209-8494 a-bays.com B, L, D, C, B/W Bamboo Restaurant & Gallery One of the island’s oldest establishments, the plantation-themed Kohala eatery is known for its affordable and creative Pacific Rim cuisine. Specialties include fall-offthe-bone babyback ribs, chargrilled, grass-fed ribeye and macadamia-nut-crusted organic chicken breasts. 55-3415 Akoni Pula Hwy.

(808) 889-5555 bamboorestaurant.info Br (Su), L, D, C, B/W Fish Hopper, The Seafood & Steaks Seafood options don’t get any fresher than what’s available here. And it’s even better knowing that the restaurant partners with the Seafood Watch Program, serving only sustainable, environmentally responsible seafood. Mahimahi, yellowfin tuna, ono, monchong and sanddabs are mainstays. 75-5683 Alii Dr. (808) 326-2002 fishhopper.com B, L, D, C, B/W Manta (Mauna Kea Beach Hotel) Begin your day in the openair bay-view restaurant, home to a legendary breakfast buffet with made-to-order waffles and omelets, tropical fruits and juices, whole-grain cereals and freshly baked pastries. As the sun sets, the ambiance changes as the Bar & Lounge come to life, and chefs prepare culinary delights in the exhibition kitchen. 62-100 Mauna Kea Beach Dr. (808) 882-5707 maunakeabeachhotel.com B, Br (Su), D, B/W

Wednesday mornings at 9 and Friday at 9 a.m. and again at 11a.m. It is an hourlong walking tour of the orchard and factory and, of course, includes chocolate sampling. OHCF is an active working plantation and advance reservations are required for all tours. 78-6772 Makenawai St. (808) 322-2626 ohcf.us Tours

RESTAURANT GUIDE

Nani Mau Gardens & Restaurants Floral beauty, a garden setting and a friendly and relaxing environment make Nani Mau a popular place for a lunch buffet. Receive free admission to the garden after lunch. 421 Makalika St. (808) 959-3500 nanimaugardens.com L, D

menu of fresh island flavors, an extensive wine list and cozy upcountry dining with warm Hawaiian hospitality. 65-1227 Opelo Rd., Kamuela (808) 885-6822 merrimanshawaii.com L, D, C, B/W

Charley’s Thai Cuisine (Queen’s Marketplace) This is where locals and visitors alike can enjoy fragrant, authentic Thai meals. Choose from fresh local fish prepared Thai style or select one of the chef’s curries, noodle dishes or combination dishes. 201 Waikoloa Beach Dr. (808) 886-0591 charleysthaihawaii.com L, D, B/W Royal Thai Cafe (Keauhou Shopping Center) Author of several definitive Each dish here is as complex in flavors and textures as it is in the whole of its ingredients. Hints of coconut, lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves, cilantro, fish sauce, and green, yellow, red and pineapple curries are layered and melded into a single bite of bliss. Vegetarian options are availalble. 78-6831 Ali‘i Dr. (808) 322-8424 royalthaicafe.com L, D, B/W

Merriman’s Pioneered by award-winning chef Peter Merriman—who adamantly maintains a single vision “Do the right thing”—for local farmers, for the islands and guests. Here, you’ll savor an award-winning

Roy’s Waikoloa Bar & Grill Surrounded by the historic King’s Trail, featuring petroglyphs and lava fields, Roy’s Waikoloa offers a memorable dining experience with Regional cuisine. An “Aloha Hour” prix-fixe dinner offers an appetizer sampler, and a choice of entree and dessert. 250 Waikoloa Beach Dr., E-1 (808) 886-4321 royshawaii.com D, C, B/W

THAI

D I N I N G I N PA R A D I S E

Garlic Shrimp Fettuccine

Grilled Rack of Lamb with Polenta

Prepare to be wowed by amazing views, tasty libations and food that tantalizes the senses.

Mi’s Lanai

Waterfront Bistro

Voted “Best Itali a R estaura n nt” ~in 2016, 2017, & 20 18!

Chef/Owner Morgan Starr invites you to

Mi’s Waterfront Bistro the finest oceanfront dining experience on the Big Island of Hawaii. Open Daily: Lunch 12PM - 4:30PM Dinner 5PM - 9PM Happy Hour: 12PM-5PM

Waterfront Row, 2nd Floor 75-5770 Ali’i Drive | Kailua-Kona, HI Phone: 808-329-3880 Email: Info@miswaterfrontbistro.com www.miswaterfrontbistro.com Grilled Fresh Catch with Risotto

(underground validated parking)

Historic Big Island Dining On The Water Cocktails & Music

135 Kalanianaole Ave. Hilo | 808-934-7663 (POND) Daily 11am â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 10pm | pondshilo.com

Queens’ MarketPlace

The Most Dining Options On The Kohala Coast

—— DINING —— Bistro at the Cinemas Charley’s Thai Cuisine Daylight Mind Café and Restaurant Kuleana Rum Shack Romano’s Macaroni Grill Sansei Seafood, Steak & Sushi Bar

—— FOOD OUTLETS —— Aloha Bol Big Island Burritos Dairy Queen/Orange Julius Ippy’s Hawaiian BBQ Lemongrass Express Marble Slab Creamery® Paradise Pizza & Grill Starbucks Subway Sandwiches and Salads

—— GROCERY —— Island Gourmet Markets

808-886-8822 | QueensMarketPlace.net M ar ket Mar k Plac l e.net lac Waikoloa Beach Resort | the Kohala Coast 20 miles north of Kona International Airport on Queen Kaahumanu Highway

Hawaii Titanium Rings 100% Made in Hawaii

Artistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Studio Above Costco Enter on Kamanu Street 73-5617 Maiau Street Bay 5 Kailua-Kona, Hawaii 96740

Original Gallery Kona Inn Shopping Village Next to Jguires Gallery 75-5744 Alii Drive Space 190 Kailua-Kona, Hawaii 96740

808-756-1173

HawaiiTitaniumRings.com

Two breathtaking courses. One unforgettable experience.

Waikoloa Beach Resort Golf Waikoloa Beach Resort is home to Hawaii’s Best Golf Value – The Beach Course and The Kings’ Course. Carved out of ancient lava fields the contrast between the emerald green fairways and shimmering blue lakes provides for a unique golf experience only found at Waikoloa. Each course presents different challenges, yet neither fails to provide a rewarding and fun golf experience that beckons each golfer to return. For a tee time, call 808-886-7888 For information about special golf offers or to book online, visit www.WaikoloaGolf.com