Washington D.C.
“Breaks the mold of museum exhibiting” —Fodor’s
400 4TH ST. SW, WASHINGTON, DC 20024
•
MUSEUMOF THEBIBLE.ORG
ON VIEW AT THE FREER GALLERY OF ART THROUGH NOVEMBER 2020
Hokusai: Mad about Painting Enjoy our yearlong exploration of the prolific career of Japanese artist Katsushika Hokusai.
Smithsonian
Freer Gallery of Art Arthur M. Sackler Gallery asia.si.edu @freersackler GENEROUS SUPPORT FOR THIS EXHIBITION AND THE MUSEUM’S JAPANESE ART PROGRAM IS PROVIDED BY
Anne van Biema Endowment Fund Detail, Thunder God. Katsushika Hokusai (1760–1849). Japan, 1847. Hanging scroll; ink and color on paper. Gift of Charles Lang Freer. Freer Gallery of Art, F1900.47
CONTENTS 06
FIRST LOOK
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WHAT’S OLD IS NEW
Key sites revealing the depth and breadth of this endlessley fascinating city.
Established in 1846, the Smithsonian Institution refreshes its sites with new exhibits and spaces. BY JENNIFER BARGER
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ROOMS FOR REFLECTION
The Franklin D. Roosevelt Memorial provides breathing space and inspiration. BY CORINNE WHITING PHOTOGRAPHY BY RON BLUNT
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ALL ALONG THE WATERFRONT
The Potomac and the Anacostia rivers frame a city humming with life, on and off the banks. BY ANNE KIM-DANNIBALE PHOTOGRAPHY BY KATE WARREN
ALL ABOUT TOWN
Zones of urban bustle, Gilded Age architecture, luxury retail, riverside views and hot nightlife.
THE LISTINGS 35
SHOPPING
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DINING
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Clothing, gifts, toys and decor in diverse retail zones across the area. From hip city cafes to waterfront decks and country inns, a guide to eating well.
ATTRACTIONS
World-renowned collections, historic landmarks and more can’t-miss sites.
ENTERTAINMENT
Where to go for top musical acts, thrilling theater, action-packed sports, delicious cocktails and local brews.
EXPLORE
Tours and transportation for getting around the nation’s capital.
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COVER PROMOTION THE REACH, THE KENNEDY CENTER’S STUNNING NEW CAMPUS EXPANSION, IS MADE FOR HANDS-ON, UP-CLOSE ARTS EXPERIENCES. ©RICHARD BARNES
(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP) ©KATE WARREN; ©RON BLUNT; ©LUCIA MARTINO/SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION
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FIRST LOOK
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Thomas Jefferson Memorial
Between the Tidal Basin and the Potomac River, the third president occupies a neo-classical temple. Architect John Russell Pope took inspiration from Monticello, the gracefully domed Virginia residence that Jefferson designed for himself. Here, surrounded by his own revolutionary words, Jefferson stands marked by contradiction—diplomat, farmer and inventor, author of the Declaration of Independence, yet lifelong slaveholder. His public and private lives fascinate still. 202.426.6841, www.nps.gov/thje
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A glance at some of the top sites revealing the depth and breadth of this endlessly engaging capital city.
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Union Station
Designed in the Beaux Arts style by Daniel Burnham and completed in 1907, this historic station welcomes thousands of Amtrak travelers and local commuters every day. Even those not riding the rails come to browse the shops, grab a bite and marvel at the 26,000-square-foot hall, formerly the General Waiting Room, with its gleaming marble floor and gold leaf-adorned ceiling “guarded” by 26 sculpted Roman centurions. 50 Massachusetts Ave. NE, 202.371.9441, www.unionstationdc.com 8
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FIRST LOOK
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Dumbarton Oaks
Conversations started in 1944 at this Georgetown residence laid the groundwork for the United Nations charter. It was only fitting, as the home’s former owner, Robert Bliss, was a diplomat. But Bliss and his wife Mildred were interested in things beyond fostering international relations. Now part of Harvard University, their former home makes an elegant trove for worldclass Byzantine and Pre-Columbian art. More treasures await in the garden, named one of the world’s 10 best by National Geographic. 1703 32nd St. NW, 202.339.6400, www.doaks.org WHERET RAVWHERE EL ER ® GGUEST UESTBBOOK OOK 9 XX
National Gallery of Art
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Leo Villareal’s trippy “Multiverse” LED node-filled tunnel lights the way between this site’s two wings. In the West Building, find American and European paintings and sculptures dating from the 13th century, including “Ginevra de’ Benci,” this hemisphere’s only painting by Leonardo da Vinci. In the East Building, galleries and a roof deck showcase modern works by Calder and Rothko. Constitution Ave. NW, between 3rd & 9th sts., 202.737.4215, www.nga.gov
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FIRST LOOK
(FROM TOP) COURTESY WMATA; ©MUDDYMARI/SHUTTERSTOCK; (OPPOSITE PAGE) ©JON BILOUS/SHUTTERSTOCK
Washington Metropolitan Area Transit Authority
With more than 90 stations on six lines, the Metrorail delivers riders within strolling distance of many of this city’s world-renowned attractions. Hundreds of thousands take the nation’s second-busiest subway network, dotted with retrofuturistic stations the New York Times ranked “among the greatest public works of this century.” How to ride like a local? On the escalators, remember to stand on the right and walk on the left. 202.637.7000, www.wmata.com
The Capital Wheel
Just a short—and scenic—water taxi trip from Washington, D.C., at Maryland’s National Harbor, this carnival ride-turned-sleek observation platform lifts passengers in climate-controlled gondolas 180 feet above the Potomac River for bird’s-eye views of the National Mall, plus Virginia’s Old Town Alexandria and Arlington National Cemetery. 165 Waterfront St., National Harbor, Md., 877.628.5427, www.thecapitalwheel.com WHERET RAV EL ER ® G UEST B OOK
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Library of Congress
Of three edifices, the Thomas Jefferson Building, named for the Founding Father whose personal collection seeded the library, draws bibliophiles worldwide. Under the main reading room’s majestic dome, researchers study tomes from the archives, which hold more than 168 million items. In the marble corridors, visitors admire the Gutenberg Bible and symbols of the pursuit of knowledge adorning the 1897 structure. 10 First St. SE, 202.707.8000, www.loc.gov 12
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FIRST LOOK
Washington Monument
This tribute to George Washington was once the tallest building in the world. Designed by Robert Mills and completed by Thomas Casey, the obelisk rises 555 feet from a base of blue gneiss, with an aluminum cap that drew cheers from crowds when workers placed it in 1884. Since then, the structure has attracted visitors from near and far, including D.C. acrobat Russell Nesbit who, in 1959, accomplished his dream of walking down the now-shuttered steps—on his hands. 202.426.6841, www.nps.gov/wamo
National Zoological Park
In D.C.’s celebrity rankings, the top spot may belong not to politicos but to our furry black-and-white bears. Breathless news reports and live web cams document the giant pandas’ every move. And why not? Papa Tian Tian, Mei Xiang and their cub Bei Bei give viewers a rare look at the lives of these endangered species as they chomp bamboo leaves and tumble around their habitat. Nearly 2,000 other critters reside at this Smithsonian site, part of the largest museum and research complex in the world. 3001 Connecticut Ave. NW, 202.673.4888, nationalzoo.si.edu 14
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FIRST LOOK
WHAT’S OLD IS NEW Established in 1846, the Smithsonian Institution refreshes its sites with new exhibits and spaces.
The biggest news at the Smithsonian Institution, Washington, D.C.’s storied group of museums, might be the dramatic $101 million “David H. Koch Hall of Fossils: Deep Time,” open since June at the National Museum of Natural History. And while the dramatic reimagining and remounting of the collection’s towering dinosaurs and impressive fossil collection (over 700 on display!) wows both in scale and scope, some of the tiniest things in the 31,000-square-foot hall also invite the longest pauses.
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that’s been taken back to the building’s original 1910 bones (skylights, dramatic moldings) and recast to talk about issues like climate change, extinction and humans’ place in it all. “It’s telling a grand history of life on earth,” says Starrs. “We want people to see themselves in the exhibit.” That means you’ll see old-school, gasp-inducing fossils (a giant Irish deer that lived 15,200-11,100 years ago, a palm leaf from Alaska during a warm period 50-57 million years in the past). But you’ll also encounter statues of early humans and Charles Darwin among the bones, plus films, games and more. One playful interactive station uses a Pixar-esque character to show how evolution impacted humans, too. Expect kids to crack up when the purple sprite sprouts webbed hands and feet to illustrate how fish, and finally people, got limbs. The Koch Hall, playing to crowds since it opened in June, counts as the biggest development at the Smithsonian in years. But it’s not the only new or newish reason to head to one of the 17 D.C. museums that are part of the institution founded in 1846. It all started with a bequest from a mysterious British scientist for “an establishment for the increase and diffusion
(Left): The star of the renovated Fossil Hall, the “tyrant king” Tyrannosaurus feasts on a Triceratops. (Right): Dioramas with handmade details help bring to life the prehistoric world.
(FROM LEFT) ©LUCIA MARTINO/SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION; ©ANNE KIM-DANNIBALE
They would be the teensy-yet-lifelike dioramas of prehistoric environments—wolves stalking woolly mammoths on a snowy knoll, a T-rex hunting tiny dinos by a creek—chronicling varying eras over the 3.7 billion-year history of life on earth. Find them in futuristic, rounded cases that look like Space Age aquariums, and don’t be surprised to lose yourself in these tiny worlds noting details like footprints, burrowing animals and wild plants. “We wanted to show that life was never pristine; there was always a lot of poop,” says exhibition project manager Siobhann Starrs. “They’ve got so many Easter eggs in them, and everything’s handmade, from tiny blades of grass cut from paper to animals baked out of clay.” You’ll spot both wide-eyed kids and adults peering into the dioramas, taking in interactive videos on preservations or shooting smartphone videos of animatronic models. Oh, and wondering at the star attractions, impressively remounted dinosaur fossils, their bony joints reassembled with jewelry-like steel settings. Think a “Jurassic Park” meets “Terminator” mashup. It’s all put together in a high-ceilinged ground-floor space
“[‘Deep Time’ is] telling a grand history of life on earth. We
©LUCIA MARTINO/SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION
want people to see themselves in the exhibit.”—Siobhann Starrs, Natural History Museum exhibition project manager
Among the new developments at Smithsonian sites, “Deep Time” at the Natural History Museum tells the story of 3.7 billion years of life on earth.
of knowledge.” That scientist would be one James Smithson, whose bones now rest in an elaborate marble tomb at “the Castle,” the circa-1855 redbrick turreted structure that now serves as the complex’s visitor center. In honor of the 50th anniversary of the Apollo 11 lunar landing, the National Air and Space Museum is showcasing Neil Armstrong’s spacesuit for the first time in 13 years. The fragile ensemble, freshly conserved thanks to Kickstarter funding, stands in a climate-controlled case on a specially designed mannequin. “The combination of the advanced imagery, historical research and case allows us to share this suit with the world in a manner that has not previously been possible,” says Cathleen Lewis, spacesuit curator at the museum. It, plus a myriad of other lunar exploration artifacts, will eventually headline at the museum’s new “Destination Moon” exhibit, expected to open in 2022. “So many people haven’t yet been to the National Museum
of African American History and Culture, and it’s got so much going on—film premieres, a genealogy center and a new temporary exhibit about World War I,” says Smithsonian Institution spokesperson Linda St. Thomas. That genealogy area on the second floor, the Robert Frederick Smith Explore Your Family History Center, lets visitors use computers and other digital resources to research their roots and learn about techniques like taking oral histories and preserving photos of ancestors. Opening for a year-long run on December 12, “We Return Fighting, The African American Experience in World War I,” delves into the early 20th-century conflict via photos, artifacts and multimedia. And the smaller, off-the-National-Mall Anacostia Community Museum reopens in late 2019, after a $3.5 million improvement project adding a public plaza and a small garden. The museum digs into urban community life via exhibits on city planning, culture and modernization, usually focused on Washington, D.C. Visitors can expect a revitalized version of “A Right to the City,” the site’s popular, permanent show on gentrification in D.C. neighborhoods, including Adams Morgan, Shaw and Brookland. It seems Mr. Smithson is, all these years later, still getting his money’s worth.
ROOMS FOR REFLECTION The Franklin D. Roosevelt Memorial provides breathing space and inspiration. TEXT BY CORINNE WHITING
On the edge of the Tidal Basin, where each spring Japan’s gifts of cherry blossoms bloom, there is a serene tribute to the nation’s 32nd president, Franklin Delano Roosevelt. The sprawling 7.5-acre openair memorial, accessible 24 hours a day, invites frequent passersby and awed first-timers into “rooms” that create a virtual, 12-year timeline of American history. Begun in 1994 and dedicated by President Bill Clinton in 1997, the site draws more than 2.8 million visitors annually to its tranquil gardens, waterfalls and areas for quiet introspection about this American’s contributions. 20
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Ironically Roosevelt had no desire for a grandiose monument. He told his friend, Supreme Court Justice Felix Frankfurter, that he wanted only a simple stone, “a block about the size [of his desk].” Yet in paying homage to FDR, landscape architect Lawrence Halprin (19162009) and his team of designers gracefully linked the site to the man with walls and floors made of Cold Spring Granite, similar to the stone used at Roosevelt’s estate in Hyde Park, New York. Sculptures by Neil Estern, inspired by photos, depict Roosevelt with his dog Fala at his feet and wife Eleanor standing by the emblem of the United Nations in which she served. Some of the president’s most inspiring words appear etched in stone. Because of Roosevelt’s paralysis from the waist down (a 1921 illness, likely polio, led to his disability), designers included features like tactile reliefs and Braille signage to make the memorial accessible to the blind. (Some critics deem the Braille useless, since many plaques hang out of reach.) But the biggest point of contention? Planners initially 22
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decided not to show FDR in a wheelchair, instead portraying him as he chose to appear in public throughout his life—in a chair concealed by a long cloak. However, since protests by disability advocates spurred the 2001 addition of a bronze by Robert Graham, the president has since been depicted as he never wished to be remembered—as a disabled man in a wheelchair. Running water plays a symbolic role with a cascade or still pool gracing each of the four “rooms”—one for each term in office. As visitors pass through the eras, from the Great Depression and WWII to FDR’s death, the waterfalls, like the storyline, grow progressively larger and more complex. Sculptural tableaux by George Segal in Room Two depict the Great Depression era with “The Fireside Chat,” “The Rural Couple” and “The Breadline.” Engraved words include the Four Freedoms and FDR’s declaration “I Hate War.” The talent behind this photo essay, Ron Blunt hails from England but has called the D.C. area home since 1990. He first shot the site using a four-by-five film camera in May
1997, not long after the memorial’s opening. On that twoday shoot, which produced only about a dozen images, he employed a formal approach inspired by his training in landscape architecture—a wider view to expose the scope of the design. Blunt recalls how the camera often sat propped for hours to take a single shot, “settling into a sense of stillness” and allowing “a calm to descend upon the scene.” This photo session from October 2010, however, reflects the current state of the art. During this four-hour shoot, Blunt used a digital SLR Canon and a tilt-shift lens to adjust the perspective. The result? Some images give objects a distorted sense of size. Blurred figures represent the many people—joggers, students, tour groups, park rangers—who move through this space at any hour. Blunt prefers to work at transitional times, like the hour before the sun sets until an hour after when, he says, “all the magic happens.” Though Blunt finds it difficult to identify his favorite memorial subject, he senses something special about the
FDR. He appreciates the breathing space here, as well as a coziness created by the notion of “rooms.” Actual D.C. landscapes (the Washington Monument, banks of cherry trees) become a textured “wallpaper.” While some might find it challenging to capture such a well-documented landmark with fresh vision, Blunt seems unfazed. He advises going into such shoots with “an open mind and no preconceived notions.” Since tripods here require a permit, photographers must be creative— steadying cameras on walls and taking advantage of higher ISO speeds. Much like a landscape painter or a filmmaker, Blunt sets the scene for each frame. The difference? After he stages the scenario, he waits for the other elements (like the human “players” who might wander through) to fall into place. According to Blunt, everything hinges on the lighting and on the photographer’s patience. “Try to hang out for awhile...The people choreograph themselves,” Blunt promises.“Magical moments are out there; you just have to pay attention.” WHERET RAV EL ER ® G UEST B OOK
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ALL ALONG THE WATERFRONT The Potomac and the Anacostia rivers frame a city humming with life, on and off the banks. TEXT BY ANNE KIM-DANNIBALE PHOTOGRAPHY BY KATE WARREN
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GEORGETOWN A former commercial port, industrial zone and city dumping ground now hums with a riverfront pathway that hugs a park and leads to the Kennedy Center. From the banks, the trail reveals views of the Art Deco Georgetown Bridge and Rosslyn’s gleaming highrises across the Potomac. At Washington Harbour, denizens indulge in some of the city’s best restaurants and glide across an ice skating rink in winter.
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Life in the nation’s capital may seem to revolve around the Capitol Building and the White House. But political ins and outs seem far away at the city’s waterfront zones. History tells a tale of “Diamond District” ports bustling with industry, the Potomac and Anacostia rivers fueling this city’s economic engine. Today’s narrative is one of life-affirming renewal, where riverside parks, trails and sweeping views feed the soul of a city and its people.
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NAVY YARD This Southeast enclave’s shipbuilding past lives on in public artworks at the Capitol Riverfront and in the nearby U.S. Navy Museum. Gone are the wartime ships, replaced by luxury apartment buildings, hip restaurants and the LEED-certified Nationals Park, home of the MLB’s 2019 World Series champs, the Washington Nationals. Year round, residents mingle on the riverbank, renewed with parks, a boardwalk, fountains and even an Instaready space-aged pedestrian bridge.
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THE WHARF The newly redeveloped Southwest waterfront preserves few reminders of its pastoral past, when Native Americans fished the waters here. These modern times still find fresh seafood at the Maine Avenue Fish Market, the country’s oldest
continuously operating open-air market since 1805. But new millennium shoppers mix with diners and concertgoers who keep the area’s storefronts, lauded restaurants and theaters going morning, noon and night. WHERET RAV EL ER ® G UEST B OOK
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ALL ABOUT TOWN Zones of urban bustle, Gilded Age architecture, luxury retail, riverside views and hot nightlife
Washington, D.C.
founded in 1749, year-round events like parades, house tours, art festivals
14TH & U CORRIDOR These intersecting spans lined with shops, the-
or blue lines to the King Street stop. A free trolley runs every 10-15
aters, Victorian residences and restaurants bustle by day and by night. The
minutes from the station to the waterfront. Eight miles farther down
zone once flourished with “name” entertainers performing in clubs along
the parkway, visitors experience a day in the life of George and Martha
U Street’s “Black Broadway.” Today dining hot spots, fashionable home
Washington at their picturesque Mount Vernon estate on the banks of
decor stores and well-regarded music clubs draw young professionals and
the Potomac River.
ALEXANDRIA, VIRGINIA AND OLD TOWN In this port city and river cruises contribute to citizen spirit. From D.C., drive south eight miles via the George Washington Parkway, or ride Metrorail’s yellow
empty nesters. Theaters like Source and Studio mount new and experimental plays starring D.C.-based professional actors.
ARLINGTON, VIRGINIA Across the Potomac River from D.C., find
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ADAMS MORGAN Funky shops and popular bars mark this interna-
City. This large county of hip restaurants, ethnic enclaves and shopping
tional, some say “bohemian,” zone on Columbia Road and 18th Street NW.
malls is home to office workers, armed services folk and 20-somethings.
Dining options range from walk-up falafel counters to sit-down glob-
Interred at Arlington National Cemetery are thousands of military vet-
al
Vietnamese—and
erans, government personnel and Kennedy family members. Sentinels
even Michelin-starred spots. The Adams Morgan Day street festival
guard the Tomb of the Unknowns 24 hours a day. Nearby is the “Iwo Jima”
attracts crowds at the start of every fall. Woodley Park Metrorail is to
bronze Marine Corps Memorial and, to the south, two dramatic sites—the
the northwest, and a DC Circulator bus loops from there to Columbia
Pentagon installation for 9/11 victims and the flight-inspired Air Force
Road NW.
memorial by James Ingo Freed.
fare—Latin
American,
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Ethiopian,
Turkish,
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Rosslyn, Clarendon, Ballston, Shirlington, Crystal City and Pentagon
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CAPITOL HILL One of the city’s oldest residential communities fea-
for concerts and sports. The Smithsonian’s American Art Museum and
tures 19th-century row houses, marble Congressional buildings and the U.S.
National Portrait Gallery surround a canopy-covered courtyard. The
Botanic Garden with its Art Deco-era glass conservatory. At Eastern Market,
ornate Friendship Arch at 7th and H streets marks the old Chinatown, still
vendors sell crafts, jewelry, artwork and produce beside alfresco cafes.
an authentic presence here beside national chains.
Visitors queue to hear arguments at the Supreme Court October through June and catch plays at Folger Shakespeare Library. Union Station, one of
DUPONT CIRCLE During America’s Gilded Age, this area became a
the nation’s busiest Amtrak train depots, features shops and eateries.
promenade for old money and the nouveau riche. The National Trust for Historic Preservation and other contemporary institutions reclaim and
CHEVY CHASE/BETHESDA At Friendship Heights, the Chevy
cherish the zone’s elegant mansions. Visitors explore boutiques, art gal-
Chase retail district straddles Western Avenue, the D.C.-Maryland
leries, The Phillips Collection, Woodrow Wilson House and embassies
line. Here, find restaurants and stores like Bloomingdale’s, Saks Fifth
in nearby Kalorama. Chess players and workers on breaks gather around
Avenue, Cartier and Tiffany & Co. Take the Metrorail north to Bethesda,
the circle’s Beaux Arts fountain. Nighttime brings after-work crowds to
Maryland, for more shops and dining, art galleries and theaters like Round
restaurants, bars and clubs along Connecticut Avenue and to cafes and
House and kid-friendly Imagination Stage. Farther north, with their own
sidewalk patios on 17th Street a few blocks east.
Metrorail stops, are the National Institutes of Health and the Music Center at Strathmore, a base of the Baltimore Symphony Orchestra and
FOGGY BOTTOM Audiences park underground or take a free shuttle
National Philharmonic.
from the Foggy Bottom Metrorail stop to visit the “living memorial” to the
CHINATOWN/PENN QUARTER North of Pennsylvania Avenue NW, this zone buzzes with restaurants like José Andrés’ Michelin-starred Minibar, two stages for Shakespeare and Capital One Arena, a venue
Opposite page: The fountain in the center of Dupont Circle. This page from left: Colorful row houses in Capitol Hill; Compass Rose restaurant in Adams Morgan.
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35th president, The John F. Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts. In
bar Copycat Co. and cutting-edge Mosaic Theater Company. The Rock
the Grand Foyer, find the bronze Kennedy sculpture by Robert Berks, who
and Roll Hotel spotlights up-and-coming bands, while H Street Country
also created the climb-aboard statue of Albert Einstein at the National
Club amuses with an indoor mini-golf course. Every fall brings more
Academy of Sciences. Nearby in this “West End” neighborhood: the U.S.
than 50,000 to what some call the Atlas District (named for the perform-
State Department, George Washington University with its lauded textile
ing arts center housed in an Art Deco-style movie theater) to enjoy food,
museum, and the infamous Watergate complex that includes a renovated
drink and art during the popular H Street Festival.
hotel with rooftop lounge.
NATIONAL HARBOR, MARYLAND South of D.C. on the Potomac
32
GEORGETOWN In D.C.’s oldest neighborhood (c.1751), M Street and
River, this zone has a boardwalk and full-service hotels, including the glitzy
Wisconsin Avenue cross at the commercial hub, and federal row houses coex-
MGM National Harbor. Water taxis and river cruises shuttle passengers here
ist with shops, restaurants and bars. Attractions include historic sites like
from the waterfronts of Alexandria in Virginia and Georgetown. A bike trail
Tudor Place, plus Georgetown University, Potomac boathouses and the C&O
on the Woodrow Wilson Bridge connects to Alexandria. Along the waterfront,
Canal. At Washington Harbour, restaurants, fountains and an ice skating rink
find restaurants, shops, festivals and Seward Johnson’s “The Awakening,” a
in winter draw crowds. DC Circulator buses traverse the city, shuttling visitors
bronze, climb-on giant who emerges from the sands of a man-made beach. A
and residents alike between Georgetown and Union Station.
spin on The Capital Wheel offers panoramic views.
H STREET NE This revitalizing zone between 3rd and 14th streets is
SHAW The Washington Convention Center anchors this commercial cor-
emerging as one of D.C.’s hippest. Where British soldiers once marched
ridor and rapidly developing multicultural neighborhood of galleries, hot
toward the Capitol during the War of 1812, now a streetcar transports
restaurants and bars, several among the most lauded and popular destina-
passengers from Union Station to businesses like James Beard-nominee
tions in the city. The restored Howard Theatre on T Street NW once hosted
Erik Bruner-Yang’s restaurant/retail hybrid Maketto, intimate cocktail
Duke Ellington, The Supremes and Otis Redding, and now, like the 9:30 Club
W H E R E G U E ST B O O K
(FROM LEFT) ©ANDREI MEDVEDEV/SHUTTERSTOCK; ©JON BILOUS/SHUTTERSTOCK; ©REY LOPEZ
ALL ABOUT TOWN
on V Street, books current big names in all genres. To the north, find Howard
WATERFRONT/NAVY YARD On the Southeast Waterfront, find
University flanking Florida Avenue NW.
the Navy Museum, Nationals Park Major League Baseball stadium and
(FROM LEFT) ©ANNA MEYER; ©TED EYTAN/FLICKR, CREATIVE COMMONS
revamped spaces like Yards Park with its light sculptures, boardwalk and
TYSONS AND RESTON, VIRGINIA Tysons, a major retail
fountains on the banks of the Anacostia River. The Southwest Waterfront,
zone, includes Tysons Corner Center, one of the region’s largest shop-
features redeveloped hip spot The Wharf with top restaurants and The
ping malls at 2.2 million square feet. The adjacent Tysons Galleria offers
Anthem concert venue, acclaimed Arena Stage, plus Potomac River cruises
more than 120 restaurants and retailers like Saks Fifth Avenue, Cartier,
and a lively historic fish market.
Chanel and Neiman Marcus, plus an upscale food hall on the third floor. At Fairfax Square, find gleaming baubles at Tiffany & Co. and Liljenquist
WOODLEY PARK/CLEVELAND PARK Along Connecticut
& Beckstead. About 11 miles west toward Dulles International Airport,
Avenue north of Calvert Street, the blocks filled with grand apartment
Reston—one of America’s first planned communities—has a town center featuring shops, dining and, in winter, an ice skating rink.
buildings and residences once served as the summer retreat of prominent Washingtonians. The neighborhood now has pubs, restaurants and the art deco Uptown Theater, a film premiere venue. Washington National
VIRGINIA COUNTRY Daytrippers head to vineyards and distill-
Cathedral, sited on Mount Saint Alban, hosts presidents, tourists and wor-
eries, Civil War battlefields and the charming town of Middleburg in the
shippers with services and concerts. Between the two Metrorail stops, find
Old Dominion’s fabled horse country. Leesburg draws shoppers with its
the National Zoo with its superstar giant panda bears.
off-price outlets and antiques shops lining a historic district. At National Air and Space Museum’s Udvar-Hazy Center in Chantilly, aircraft hover in hangar-like galleries. Kids play pilot and marvel at the Space Shuttle Discovery as part of the world’s largest collection related to aviation and space exploration.
Opposite page from left: Shops on the main drag in funky Adams Morgan; Georgetown University in Georgetown; Maketto in H Street NE. This page from left: The InterContinental Hotel’s 12 Stories at the Southwest Waterfront; DC Alley Museum mural in Shaw.
WHERE GUEST B OOK
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WASHINGTON, D.C.
THE GUIDE
©JASON VARNEY
SHOPPING + DINING + ATTRACTIONS + ENTERTAINMENT + EXPLORE
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W H E R E T R AV E L E R ® GU E STBO O K
THE GUIDE SHOPPING SHOPPING CENTERS CITYCENTERDC Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Dior, Vince, Daniel Boulud’s DBGB Kitchen and Bar, Momofuku, Centrolina and Fig & Olive. Tesla dealership. 10th St. NW (Between H and I), 202.289.9000 www.citycenterdc.com.
3211 M St. NW, 202.499.6765 www.billyreid.com. PROPER TOPPERCL0000033801 Hat shop, plus decor, clothing, accessories, jewelry, gifts, kids' toys, books at two locations. 1350 Connecticut Ave. NW, 202.842.3055 www.propertopper.com.
APPAREL-WOMEN
TYSONS GALLERIACL0000008026 Neiman Marcus, Macy’s, Saks Fifth Avenue plus 100 other upscale shops (Chanel, Gucci, Louis Vuitton) and restaurants. 2001 International Drive, McLean, Va., 703.827.7730 www.tysonsgalleria.com.
THE HIVE From hip founder of The Shoe Hive, an Old Town boutique for on-trend clothing (Rebecca Taylor, Current Elliott, Veronica Beard, Jenni Kayne, Equipment). 127 S. Fairfax St., 703.548.7110 www.shopatthehive.com.
APPAREL-MEN
HU’S WEARCL0000052752 Airy boutique stocking runway looks by designers like Megan Park, Bruno Grizzo and Guilty Brotherhood. 2906 M St. NW, 202.342.2020 www.husonline.com.
ONWARD RESERVE Lodge-like digs for polos, tees, khakis, sweaters, accessories, decor. Plus, a bourbon bar and lounge. 1063 Wisconsin Ave. NW, 202.838.9365 www.onwardreserve.com. READ WALL Bespoke and “natural shoulder” tailored suits. Custom shirts, pants, etc. By appointment. 1875 Connecticut Ave. NW, 10th floor,, 202.733.1913 www.readwall.com.
APPAREL-MEN & WOMEN BILLY REIDCL0000402944 Renowned designer’s rugged button-ups, derby-ready suits and loose-fitting linens, plus accessories like distressed leather handbags.
RELISHCL0000400320 Minimal, contemporary styles handpicked by owner Nancy Pearlstein. Dries van Noten, Marni, Jil Sander, Marc Jacobs. 3312 Cady’s Alley NW, 202.333.5343 www.relishdc.com.
BEAUTY VEER & WANDER Minimalist boutique with knowledgeable staff for “clean” beauty and skincare products by Goop, RMS, Kevin Murphy, Verso; salon with hair/makeup services (book online). 1260 5th St. NE, 202.516.9770 www.veerandwander.com.
BOOKS KRAMERBOOKS & AFTERWORDS CAFECL0000008043 Indie shop with full-service restaurant and bar since 1976. Events, live music, patio. 1517 Connecticut Ave. NW, 202.387.1400 www.kramers.com. POLITICS AND PROSECL0000070930 Since 1984, niche selections and high-profile signings. OPUS book machine prints and binds books in minutes. Coffee shop downstairs. 5015 Connecticut Ave. NW, 202.364.1919 www.politics-prose.com. H SACRED CIRCLECL0000149540 Shop dedicated to spirituality, metaphysics, holistic healing and the environment. Books, music, crystals and gifts. Readings (call to reserve). Free parking. 919 King St., Alexandria, Va., 703.299.9309 www.sacredcirclebooks.com.
CHILDREN LABYRINTH Games, puzzles, Pokemon, STEM. Dedicated area for younger kids. In-store tournaments, events. 645 Pennsylvania Ave. SE, 202.544.1059 www.labyrinthgameshop.com. LITTLE BIRDIES BOUTIQUE High-end children’s clothing, plus organic products, gifts, fine art and children’s decor. 1526 Wisconsin Ave. NW, 202.333.1059 www.shoplittlebirdies.com.
HOME DECOR & GIFTS H THE INDIAN CRAFT SHOPCL0000017634 At Department of the Interior since 1938, basketry, carvings, kachinas and beadwork by American Indian artists. Outdoor sculpture garden . Bring ID. 1849 C St. NW, 202.208.4056 www.indiancraftshop.com. KUZEH Handmade pottery blending the owners’ cultural backgrounds with modern sensibilities. 716 Monroe St. NE, Studio 18, 202.770.1674 www.kuzeh.us. SALT & SUNDRY Upscale home decor, kitchen and cocktail goods, gourmet foods and gifts. Also outpost in Union Market. 1625 14th St. NW, 202.621.6647 www.shopsaltandsundry.com.
JEWELRY KICHEKO GOODS Pieces designed in D.C. and handmade in Kenya. Proceeds funding children's education in the Democratic Republic of Congo. 716 Monroe St. NE, Studio #3, email hello@kichekogoods.com www.kichekogoods.com. H LENKERSDORFER Sister store to Liljenquist & Beckstead since 1993. Fine wristwatches by Patek Philippe, Breitling, Cartier, Panerai, plus fine jewelry by Roberto Coin, Chopard, Bulgari. Skilled technicians for repairs. 1961 Chain Bridge Road, Tysons Corner, Va., 703.506.6712 www.lenkersdorfer.com.
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THE GUIDE H LILJENQUIST & BECKSTEADCL0000008054 Since 1979 watches by Bulgari, Cartier, Rolex, Chopard. Bell & Ross timepieces “designed for professionals,” Tacori diamond rings and David Yurman bracelets. Several locations. Tysons Galleria (watch store), 2001 International Drive, McLean, Va., 703.448.6731 www.liljenquistbeckstead.com. SHELTER D.C. designer Mallory Shelter’s minimalist storefront for her hand-hewn earrings, bracelets, rings and more. Custom, wedding, engagement. 1258 5th St. NE, 202.548.0011 www.malloryshelterjewelry.com.
SHOES H ALDENCL0000024335 Family-owned maker since 1884. Men’s styles from tassel moccasins to dress Oxfords, belts, fine leather goods. 921 F St. NW, 202.347.2308 www.aldenshoedc.com. THE SHOE HIVECL0000403395 Elegant and casual shoes plus bags and accessories. Designers: Tory Burch, Kate Spade, Sam Edelman. 127 S. Fairfax St., Alexandria, Va., 703.548.7105 www.theshoehive.com.
SPECIALTY LADURÉE In a historic storefront, famous Parisian sweets, plus gifts and a cafe. (Union Station location to-go only). 3060 M St. NW, 202.737.0492 www.laduree.com. UNION MARKETCL0000400356 Local “artisan” vendors, plus John Mooney’s Bidwell restaurant. Wines,
fresh bread. 6th St. and Neal Place NE 301.347.3998 www.unionmarketdc.com.
chocolate” lava cake. Beer, wine, whiskeys. Happy hour weekdays. 1 Cameron St. 703.684.5080 www.chart-house.com.
DINING
NASIME Japanese. Modern dining room with upscale tasting menu highlighting from-scratch Japanese dishes at an affordable price. 1209 King St., 703.457.0146 www.nasimerestaurant.com.
1101 Pennsylvania Ave. SE, 202.544.4368 www.emiliesdc.com..
DOWNTOWN 14TH & U CORRIDOR LE DIPLOMATECL0000402366 French. Red banquettes, zinctopped bar and a “garden room” for steak frites, foie gras “parfait.” 1601 14th St. NW, 202.332.3333 www.lediplomatedc.com. MAYDAN Middle Eastern. Michelin-starred spot with blazing hearth for seafood, kabobs, meats, spreads and salads. 1346 Florida Ave. NW, 202.370.3696 www.maydandc.com.
H RT’S RESTAURANTCL0000007584 Cajun/Creole. Neighborhood spot with character and sounds from zydeco to blues. Known for Jack Daniels shrimp, alligator stew, gumbos, po-boys, she-crab soup and crawfish étouffée. Cocktails, beers. 3804 Mount Vernon Ave., 703.684.6010 www.rtsrestaurant.net.
BLT PRIME BY DAVID BURKE Steakhouse. The celeb chef’s namesake spot for dry-aged chops, grilled lobster. Raw bar, whimsical desserts. Inside Trump International Hotel. 1100 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, 202.868.5100 www.bltrestaurants.com. EQUINOX RESTAURANTCL0000007507 American. Prize-winning Todd Gray pairing wines to crab cakes with grits, Muscovy duck, vegan options. A la carte or tastings. 818 Connecticut Ave. NW, 202.331.8118 www.equinoxrestaurant.com.
ADAMS MORGAN A RAKE’S PROGRESS American. James Beard winner Spike Gjerde’s D.C. spot for local producers and seasonal ingredients. The Line Hotel, 1770 Euclid St. NW, 202.864.4190 www.thelinehotel.com. TAIL UP GOAT American. Chefs with lauded resumes in their own laid-back Michelin-starred kitchen. Smoked potato ravioli, lamb ribs. 1827 Adams Mill Road NW, 202.986.9600 www.tailupgoat.com.
VERMILIONCL0000007565 American. Lantern-lit townhouse with changing tasting menu pairing dishes with Virginia wines. Lounge with bar, plasma TV and live music. 1120 King St., 703.684.9669 www.vermilionrestaurant.com.
CAPITOL HILL PINEAPPLE AND PEARLS American. James Beard winner Aaron Silverman’s Michelin-starred tasting menu in dining room or chef’s counter. Reservations five weeks in advance. 715 Eighth St. SE, 202.595.7375 www.pineappleandpearls.com.
H MORTON’SCL0000041322 Steaks. Handsome spaces for locals and power lunchers digging into porterhouse, New York strip, filet mignon, lobster. Two locations. 1050 Connecticut Ave. NW, 202.955.5997 www.mortons.com. PLUMECL0000053828 American. Ralf Schlegel’s Michelinstarred dishes à la Monticello’s gardens inside elegant Jefferson Hotel. Prix fixe, chef’s tasting. 1200 16th St. NW, 202.448.3227 www.jeffersondc.com.
DUPONT CIRCLE
ALEXANDRIA, VA. H CHART HOUSECL0000037135 Seafood. On Old Town waterfront with fresh seafood and capital views. Crab soup, spiced ahi, prime rib, “hot
EMILIE’S New American. Kevin Tien highlighting eclectic flavors. Scallop crudo with curry leaves, Vietnamese-style pork blade steak for the table.
OBELISKCL0000044766 Italian. A foodie destination for 20-plus years. Daily five-course prix fixe by chef-turned-owner Esther Lee. Reservations recommended.
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W H E R E T R AV E L E R ® GU E STBO O K
THE GUIDE 2029 P St. NW, 202.872.1180 www.obeliskdc.com.
FOGGY BOTTOM/ WEST END H EL CHALANCL0000007685 Peruvian. D.C.’s oldest Peruvian cafe with lomo saltado (filet strips with fried potato), South American-style paella drawing World Bank crowd. Touted by Hispanic Magazine as among top 50 U.S. Latin restaurants. 1924 I St. NW, 202.293.2765 www.elchalandc.com. KAZ SUSHI BISTROCL0000007659 Japanese. Prized chef Kazuhiro Okochi’s intimate spot for seared bonito, sea trout napoleon, tuna tartare. Tasting menu. 1915 I St. NW, 202.530.5500 www.kazsushibistro.com.
GEORGETOWN BOURBON STEAKCL0000028290 Steaks. Michael Mina’s outpost in David Rockwell-designed space for hormone-free meats, seafood, regional produce. Patio, popular lounge. 2800 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, 202.944.2026 www.bourbonsteakdc.com. FIOLA MARECL0000405021 Seafood. James Beard Awardwinner Fabio Trabocchi’s riverfront venture. Oysters, smoked cod, Maine lobster, yellowfin tuna carpaccio. Cocktails, mocktails. 3050 K St. NW, 202.628.0065 www.fiolamaredc.com.
NATIONAL HARBOR, M.D. FISH BY JOSÉ ANDRÉS Seafood. James Beard winner José Andrés in MGM National Harbor. Live seafood highlighting local fare (Maryland blue crabs, Rappahannock oysters). Tuna tartare, lobster jambalaya. 7100 Oxon Hill Road, 301.971.6050 www.mgmnationalharbor.com. VOLTAGGIO BROTHERS STEAK HOUSE Steakhouse. Celeb chef brothers Michael and Bryan Voltaggio’s joint effort in MGM National Harbor resort. Dry-aged USDA prime, wedge salad with gorgonzola “snow.” Timeline of cocktails from 1670’s “Clarified Milk Punch” to 2005’s “5-Spice Penicillin.” 101 MGM National Ave., 301.971.6060 www.mgmnationalharbor.com.
PENN QUARTER/ CHINATOWN H CUBA LIBRECL0000064073 Caribbean/Cuban. Old Havana colonial-baroque setting for “Nuevo Cubano” fare: ceviche, skirt steak, paella, ropa vieja. Bar with 81 rums plus mojitos and Spanish wines. Salsa dancing, entertainment. 801 Ninth St. NW, 202.408.1600 www.cubalibrerestaurant.com. DBGB KITCHEN AND BAR French. Daniel Boulud’s bistro in CityCenter. House-cured meats, seafood, burgers, suckling pig. Glass walls, china plates signed by celeb chef pals. Good spirits, Frenchfocused wine list, unique beers. 931 H St. NW, 202.695.7660 www.dbgb.com/dc.
FIOLACL0000143373 Italian. James Beard Awardwinning Fabio Trabocchi in his own Michelin-starred “villa” serving lobster ravioli, rib-eye, seafood. Themed tastings. 678 Indiana Ave. NW, 202.628.2888 www.fioladc.com. H MASTRO’S Steakhouse. Local outpost of West Coast altar to beef in a sophisticated setting. Wet-aged steaks and chops, plus seafood and sushi, lobster mashed potatoes. Warm Butter Cake. Live music nightly. 600 13th St. NW, 202.347.1500 www.mastrosrestaurants.com. H MCCORMICK & SCHMICK’SCL0000007702 Seafood. Famed West Coast restaurant with clubby quarters for fresh catches, bass, oysters, draft beers, single malts. Several locations. 1652 K St. NW, 202.861.2233 www.mccormickandschmicks.com. MOMOFUKU Global. Prize-winning chef David Chang’s D.C. outpost of NYC original for Mid-Atlantic-style fare. Limited reservations through website. 1090 I St. NW, 202.602.1832 www.momofuku.com. H OCEANAIRE SEAFOOD ROOMCL0000007704 Seafood. Swank “oceanliner” where celebs, power lunchers go for fresh catches. Alaskan King crab, Coho salmon, Dover sole. Also crab cakes, steaks, oyster bar. Valet. 1201 F St. NW, 202.347.2277 www.theoceanaire.com.
SHAW THE DABNEY American. Jeremiah Langhorne’s Michelin-starred digs for open-hearth cooking with ingredients from a rooftop garden. Menu changes daily. Downstairs, Dabney Cellar wine bar. 122 Blagden Alley, 202.450.1015 www.thedabney.com. KINSHIP American. Acclaimed chef Eric Ziebold’s Michelin-starred sister above Metier. Menu divided into themed sections with standouts lobster French toast, grilled ribeye. Extensive wine list. 1015 Seventh St. NW, 202.737.7700 www.kinshipdc.com. METIER American. In a historic 1907 building, Eric Ziebold’s Michelin-starred dining room with private elevator. Seven-course tasting menu preceded by hors d’oeuvres in a salon. Jackets for men/reservations required. 1015 Seventh St. NW, 202.737.7500 www.metierdc.com.
VIRGINIA COUNTRY THE INN AT LITTLE WASHINGTONCL0000007516 American. The area’s only threestarred Michelin spot with country inn. Regional cuisine by Patrick O’Connell. Prix-fixe; chef’s table. Reservations required. Middle and Main sts., Washington, Va., 540.675.3800 www.theinnatlittlewashington.com.
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THE GUIDE WATERFRONT
Sacred Circle Books ~ Gifts ~ Guidance for the spiritual journey
crystals ~ candles incense & sage tarot cards ~ jewelry readings & healings 919 King St Alexandria, VA 22314 703-299-9309 SacredCircleBooks.com
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CHLOE Global. Lauded local toque Haidar Karoum’s crudo, spiced beef hummus, roasted potato gnocchi, whole fish. Chocolate sundae. Bar. 1331 4th St. SE, 202.313.7007 www.restaurantchloe.com. DEL MAR Seafood. James Beard Awardwinner Fabio Trabocchi’s glam digs for tapas with a seaside spin, caviar, grilled seafood and family-style paella. Bar. 791 Wharf St. SW, 202.525.1402 www.delmardc.com. KALIWA Southeast Asian. Cathal Armstrong’s riverside outpost at The Wharf focusing on the flavors of Thailand, the Philippines and Korea. Expansive space with outdoor dining in good weather. 751 Wharf St. SW, 202.516.4739 www.kaliwadc.com. KITH AND KIN Caribbean. James Beard winner Kwame Onwuachi serving "torched” mackerel with jollof rice and Nigerian red sauce, a burger with house-ground patties and jerkspiced bacon. Bar. InterContinental Hotel, 801 Wharf St. SW, 202.878.8566 www.kithandkindc.com.
ATTRACTIONS ART MUSEUMS
T R A V E L E R S K N O W W H E R E™
W H E R E T R AV E L E R . C O M
NATIONAL GALLERY OF ART/ EAST BUILDINGC I.M. Pei-designed site for modern and contemporary American and European art. Skylight tower with
works by Calder, Rothko. Roof terrace with views of the Capitol. Villareal LED passage to West Building. Gift shop and cafes. Free. Constitution Ave. NW between 3rd & 4th sts., 202.737.4215 www.nga.gov. NATIONAL GALLERY OF ART/ WEST BUILDINGCL0000007971 American and European paintings and sculpture from the 13th century. “Ginevra de’ Benci,” this hemisphere’s only da Vinci painting. Gift shop, cafés, sculpture garden. Free. Constitution Ave. NW between 4th & 7th sts., 202.737.4215 www.nga.gov. NATIONAL MUSEUM OF WOMEN IN THE ARTSCL0000007972 Pioneering site dedicated to female artists with 4,500-plus works by Cassatt, Kahlo and Thomas. Cafe. $8-$10. Free the first Sunday of each month. New York Ave. & 13th St. NW, 202.783.5000 www.nmwa.org. THE PHILLIPS COLLECTIONCL0000007973 The country’s first museum of modern art (1921) offering an intimate setting for a renowned collection. Laib’s Wax Room, beeswax-lined niche. Gift shop. Permanent collection free (Tu-F) with suggested donation. Weekends: $8-$10. Special exhibitions $10-$12. 21st & Q sts. NW, 202.387.2151 www.phillipscollection.org.
NATIONAL LANDMARKS ARLINGTON NATIONAL CEMETERYCL0000007878 Interred here, thousands of vet-
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W H E R E T R AV E L E R ® GU E STBO O K
THE GUIDE
The Indian Craft Shop Inside the US Dept. of the Interior
erans and government personnel. Kennedy gravesites, Tomb of the Unknowns, Iwo Jima Memorial, Women in Military Service for America Memorial, Arlington House. Self-guided tours free; bus tours see website for updated rates. 214 McNair Road, Arlington, Va., 877.907.8585 www.arlingtoncemetery.mil. FRANKLIN D. ROOSEVELT MEMORIALCL0000007882 Waterfalls and tableaux, bronze sculptures (some by George Segal) and bas-reliefs depicting Roosevelt, wife Eleanor and dog Fala, scenes from the Depression through WWII. West Potomac Park along Basin Drive SW, 202.426.6841 www.nps.gov/fdrm. JEFFERSON MEMORIALCL0000007885 At the Tidal Basin, John Russell Pope’s neoclassical marble monument for the third U.S. president. Bookstore. Parking (south side). South end of 15th St. SW, 202.426.6841 www.nps.gov/thje. LIBRARY OF CONGRESSCL0000007907 World’s largest library with more than 168 million items and a re-creation of Thomas Jefferson’s founding collection. The Herblock Gallery of editorial cartoons; “Hope for America: Performers, Politics and Pop Culture” with objects donated by Bob Hope. Tours. Free. Jefferson Building, 10 First St. SE, 202.707.8000 James Madison Memorial Building, 101 Independence Ave. SE, 202.707.9779 www.loc.gov.
MARTIN LUTHER KING JR. NATIONAL MEMORIALCL0000146244 A nearly 30-foot-tall statue of King emerging from a granite block, the Stone of Hope, with inscription walls bearing his eloquent words. Northwest corner of Tidal Basin at West Basin Drive & Independence Ave. SW, 888.484.3373 www.nps.gov/mlkm.
1849 C St. NW | 202-208-4056 |www.indiancraftshop.com American Indian Art Since 1938
H NATIONAL ARCHIVESCL0000007890 The “Charters of Freedom”— Declaration of Independence, U.S. Constitution, Bill of Rights. Theater with free films. David M. Rubenstein Gallery, Visitor Orientation Plaza. Gift shop. Free. 700 Pennsylvania Ave. NW (enter rotunda on Constitution Ave. NW), 877.874.7616 www.archives.gov/nae. NATIONAL MALLCL0000007892 GSI19_ICS_Ad_WhereGuestBook_4x4-125_20190829.indd Planner Pierre L’Enfant’s grand landscape from the U.S. Capitol to the Lincoln Memorial, with Smithsonians, renovated Washington Monument, and tributes to World War II, Vietnam veterans, Korean War veterans and Martin Luther King Jr. Free. www.nps.gov/nama.
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PENTAGONCL0000007893 U.S. Dept. of Defense HQ. On-site memorial dedicated to 184 lives lost there in the 9/11 attack. Free tours. Reserve online at least two weeks prior. Group tours available. Free. Army Navy Drive & Fern St., Arlington, Va., 703.697.1776 pentagontours.osd.mil/tours/. SUPREME COURTCL0000007895 The nation’s highest tribunal. Justices convene October through June in public sessions. When court
Alden 921 F St. NW, Washington, D.C. 20004 202-347-2308 www.AldenShoe.com
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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION
MASTRO’S Mastro’s Restaurants are recognized for their combination of world-class service, highly acclaimed cuisine, and live entertainment in an elegant yet energetic atmosphere. A trip to Mastro’s Steakhouse is a culinary adventure of pure refinement and excellence. Recognized among the nation’s most extraordinary restaurants, Mastro’s offers an unparalleled dining experience. The menu features 16 different steaks and chops— ranging from an eightounce petite filet to a 48-ounce double cut porterhouse—and an array of fresh seafood selections. Enjoy live entertainment at the bar seven nights a week while sipping on hand-crafted cocktails and eclectic wines. Mastro’s is committed to delivering an unforgettable experience, every time. 600 13th St NW
202.347.1500
CUBA LIBRE RESTAURANT & RUM BAR Cuba Libre Restaurant & Rum Bar, located in Penn Quarter across from City Center, is dedicated to the celebration of Cuban food and culture. With its tropical ambiance, vintage décor and Latin music, be prepared to be transported to 1950’s Havana. Chef-Partner Guillermo Pernot’s expansive menus of classic and contemporary Cuban cuisine make the restaurant a must-see, must-experience exciting dining destination. Enjoy a signature mojito or caipirinha with your dinner, lunch or weekend brunch, or visit Cuba Libre for happy hour or late-night dancing (Fridays and Saturdays after 11 PM). Planning a private event? Visit Cuba Libre’s Website to learn about different event spaces, party enhancements, and customizable menus.
801 9th Street, NW, Washington, DC 20001
202.408.1600 cubalibrerestaurant.com
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THE GUIDE isn’t sitting, lectures on the halfhour. Cafeteria, gift shop. Free. First St. NE between Maryland Ave. & E. Capitol St., 202.479.3030 www.supremecourt.gov. H U.S. HOLOCAUST MEMORIAL MUSEUMCL0000007990 America’s only national memorial to genocide designed by James Ingo Freed. More than 900 artifacts, 70 video monitors, four theaters, contemporary art and room for reflection. Gift shop, cafe and library. Free. 100 Raoul Wallenberg Place SW (14th St. main entry), 202.488.0400 www.ushmm.org. THE WHITE HOUSECL0000007900 Presidential residence from the time of John Adams. Photo ops from north and south gates. Self-guided public tour requests must be submitted through a member of Congress at least 21 days ahead. Tours. See Visitor Centers listing for details. 1600 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, 202.456.7041 www.whitehouse.gov.
POINTS OF INTEREST H BASILICA OF THE NATIONAL SHRINE OF THE IMMACULATE CONCEPTIONCL0000042360 The largest Roman Catholic basilica in North America and one of 10 largest churches in the world. Largest collection of contemporary ecclesiastical art in the world. Undercroft of more than 70 chapels and oratories. Tours. Cafeteria, gift store, book shop. Free. 400 Michigan Ave. NE, 202.526.8300 www.nationalshrine.org.
FREDERICK DOUGLASS NATIONAL HISTORIC SITECL0000026754 Hilltop residence of the 19th-century orator and abolitionist, restored to its 1895 appearance with original objects. By guided tour only. Reserve in advance via phone/web. 1411 W St. SE, 202.426.5961 www.nps.gov/frdo. MOUNT VERNONCL0000015109 George Washington’s home by the Potomac River. The first couple’s tomb, gardens, a blacksmith shop. Ford Orientation Center and Donald W. Reynolds Museum and Education Center. $12-$20 (includes admission to Gristmill & Distillery, open AprilOct.). Free parking. 3200 Mount Vernon Memorial Highway, Mount Vernon, Va., 703.780.2000 www.mountvernon.org. H MUSEUM OF THE BIBLE High-tech site devoted to the sacred book’s history, stories and impact. Performing arts hall with 3-D projection map, “digital docent” personal tour system. $14.99-$24.99. 400 4th St. SW, 866.430.6682 www.museumofthebible.org. PRESIDENT LINCOLN’S COTTAGECL0000026693 Retreat where Lincoln drafted the Emancipation Proclamation, site deemed a national monument by Bill Clinton in 2000. Guided tours only, reserved online. $5-$15. 140 Rock Creek Church Road NW, 202.829.0436 www.lincolncottage.org. FOLGER SHAKESPEARE LIBRARYCL0000007979 World’s largest collection of Shakespeareana (including 82 First
Folios), a multimedia exhibit hall with film, an active theater, concerts and an Elizabethan-style garden. Free. Walk-in guided tours. Reading room tours (by reservation). Library for scholars only. Gift shop. 201 E. Capitol St. SE, 202.544.4600 www.folger.edu. FORD’S THEATRECL0000007881 Historic site where Lincoln was assassinated. Museum artifacts like Lincoln’s clothing and Booth’s murder weapon, a derringer pistol. Petersen House museum and high-tech Center for Education and Leadership. Free admission but ticket required (fee for advance tickets). Active theater with performances. 511 10th St. NW, 202.347.4833 www.fords.org. INTERNATIONAL SPY MUSEUMCL0000007981 Site dedicated to the craft, practice and history of espionage around the world with artifacts like an East German camera for seeing through walls, interactive displays like reallife-based hunt for Osama bin Laden. $16.95-$26.95. 700 L’Enfant Plaza SW, 202.393.7798 www.spymuseum.org. NATIONAL BUILDING MUSEUMCL0000007986 Former U.S. Pension Building (1887) showcasing architecture, engineering, construction trades and design. Large-scale, interactive exhibitions in summer months. Building tours daily. Cafe and gift shop. $10, seniors/students/youth $7. 401 F St. NW, 202.272.2448 www.nbm.org.
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MUSEUMCL0000007987 At the society’s HQ, gallery spaces plus Explorers Hall with exhibits and lectures. Free. $10-$15, under 5 free. 1145 17th St. NW, 202.857.7700 www.nationalgeographic.org. H NATIONAL LAW ENFORCEMENT MUSEUM High-tech site with interactive exhibits, simulated training exercises, role-playing experiences (911 dispatch). History of the force, memorial honoring officers killed in the line of duty. $14.95-$21.95. 444 E St. NW, 202.737.3400 www.lawenforcementmuseum.org. U.S. BOTANIC GARDENCL0000007989 West of the Capitol, North America’s oldest botanic garden. Art Deco-era conservatory, jungle area, orchid house. Rotating exhibitions. During the holidays, “Season’s Greenings” with miniature replicas of landmarks made out of plants. Free. 100 Maryland Ave. SW, 202.225.8333 www.usbg.gov. U.S. NATIONAL ARBORETUMCL0000017608 A 446-acre site with specialty gardens, the former U.S. Capitol columns, Arbor House Gift Shop and the National Bonsai & Penjing Museum. Visitor Center. Visit by car recommended. Free. 3501 New York Ave. NE, 202.245.2726 www.usna.usda.gov. H WASHINGTON HARBOUR At the south end of Georgetown, a bustling zone with boardwalk, restaurants, a splash fountain (April-Oct.) and D.C.’s largest outdoor ice skating rink (Nov.-March). Views (Key
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THE GUIDE Bridge, Kennedy Center, Watergate). 202.295.5007 www.thewashingtonharbour.com.
Photo by Richard Barnes
The REACH is a stunning new complex on the campus of the John F. Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts designed for casual, hands-on arts experiences. Open daily. Learn more at Kennedy-Center.org/REACH
WASHINGTON NATIONAL CATHEDRALCL0000007899 World’s sixth largest cathedral, Gothic-style “Church for National Purposes.” Woodrow Wilson’s grave, Bishop’s Garden. Themed guided tours daily (prices vary, visit website to reserve). Gardens till dusk. $8-$12, (free for Sun. tours). Gift shops, cafe. 3101 Wisconsin Ave. NW, 202.537.6200 www.cathedral.org.
SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION
David M. Rubenstein Cornerstone of the REACH
AFRICAN AMERICAN HISTORY AND CULTURE MUSEUM LEED edifice of glass wrapped in bronze-toned metal panels housing artifacts including Harriet Tubman’s hymnal, Emmett Till’s casket. Oprah Winfrey Theater, Contemplative Court. Cafe. Check website for updated ticketing. Free. 1400 Constitution Ave. NW, 844.750.3012 www.nmaahc.si.edu.
WA S H I N G T O N H A R B O U R This is DC's original waterfront destination — an iconic gem in Georgetown with stunning views, acclaimed dining, and endless activities.
Basilica of the National Shrine of the Immaculate Conception America’s Catholic Church
AIR AND SPACE MUSEUMCL0000007951 (Open during renovation; check website for updated exhibit closures). World’s largest collection of aircraft and space vehicles. Lockheed Martin IMAX Theater, Albert Einstein Planetarium, Pulseworks VR Transporter (fees). Gift shop. Food court. Free. 6th St. & Independence Ave. SW, 202.633.2214 www.airandspace.si.edu.
thewashingtonharbour.com
Daily Guided Tours Daily Masses & Confessions Bookstore & Gift Shop Free Parking
3000 & 3050 K Street NW Washington, DC
AIR AND SPACE MUSEUM UDVAR-HAZY CENTERCL0000007966 Hangar-like facility near Dulles International Airport displaying 160plus aircraft. The Enola Gay (first to drop an atomic bomb). IMAX theater, flight simulations (fees). Parking ($15) or shuttle between Dulles Airport and museum. 14390 Air and Space Museum Parkway, Chantilly, Va., 202.633.1000 www.airandspace.si.edu. AMERICAN ART MUSEUMCL0000007952 National collections from folk art to LED installations and one gallery dedicated to video and time-based artwork. Gift shop. Kogod Courtyard with Norman Foster-designed canopy, free Wi-Fi and a cafe. Free. 8th & F sts. NW, 202.633.1000 www.americanart.si.edu. AMERICAN HISTORY MUSEUMCL0000036316 Repository for the country’s cultural, scientific and technological heritage. Artifacts like Thomas Jefferson’s desk, a piece of Plymouth Rock, Julia Child’s kitchen. The Star-Spangled Banner gallery with the restored flag. “The First Ladies,” gowns and memorabilia. Free. 14th St. & Constitution Ave. NW, 202.633.1000 www.americanhistory.si.edu. AMERICAN INDIAN MUSEUMCL0000007959 Curved building of golden-hued limestone facing the rising sun. Tribal exhibitions, hands-on projects like weaving a giant basket. Gift shops, two theaters and Mitsitam Cafe. 4th St. & Independence Ave. SW, 202.633.1000 www.americanindian.si.edu.
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ANACOSTIA COMMUNITY MUSEUMCL0000007953 Newly renovated site devoted to activism, urban communities and African-American heritage, with artifacts, thought-provoking rotating exhibitions. Free. 1901 Fort Place SE, 202.633.4820 www.anacostia.si.edu.
DC’S 1ST AUTHENTIC PERUVIAN RESTAURANT 1924 I Street NW (Near Farragut West & Foggy Bottom Metro Stops)
Reservations: Call 202.293.2765 www.elchalandc.com
“RT’s was picked by Open Table diners as one of the 50 Best Southern Restaurants in America for 2018”
Y OPEN DAIL FOR LUNCH R AND DINNE
Established 1985 Alexandria’s Renowned Neighborhood Restaurant and Bar Featuring Creole and Cajun Specialties
3804 Mt. Vernon Ave. • Alexandria, VA 703-684-6010 • rtsrestaurant.net
H ARTHUR M. SACKLER GALLERYCL0000007955 In a dramatic underground building, Asian and Near Eastern artworks spanning 6,000 years. Gift shop. Free. 1050 Independence Ave. SW, 202.633.1000 www.asia.si.edu. THE CASTLECL0000007954 The first Smithsonian building has an information center, cafe, James Smithson’s crypt and samples from the collection. Haupt Garden. 1000 Jefferson Drive SW, 202.633.1000 www.si.edu. H FREER GALLERYCL0000007956 Eastern and South Asian and Islamic art in an Italian-style villa. James McNeill Whistler’s “The Peacock Room Comes to America” restored to its original 1908 appearance. Films, gift shop. Free. Jefferson Drive and 12th St. SW, 202.633.1000 www.asia.si.edu. HIRSHHORN MUSEUM AND SCULPTURE GARDENCL0000007957 Designed by Gordon Bunshaft, doughnut-shaped building holding Joseph H. Hirshhorn’s gift collection plus later acquisitions. Works by Dubuffet, Picasso, Rothko, Calder, Warhol and current stars. Sculpture
Garden, tours. Free. Seventh St. & Independence Ave. SW, 202.633.1000 www.hirshhorn.si.edu. NATIONAL MUSEUM OF AFRICAN ARTCL0000007958 Sub-Saharan African art: masks, textiles, regalia, furniture, ceramics. Gift shop. Free. 950 Independence Ave. SW, 202.633.4600 www.nmafa.si.edu. NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERYCL0000007961 Famed visages throughout U.S. history. Only complete collection of presidential portraits outside the White House. Gift shop, café. Free. Eighth & F sts. NW, 202.633.1000 www.npg.si.edu. NATIONAL POSTAL MUSEUMCL0000007962 Former main post office, now displaying artifacts, stamps, multimedia stations and exhibits. Workshops, welcome center, gift shop, post office. 2 Massachusetts Ave. NE, 202.633.1000 www.postalmuseum.si.edu. NATIONAL ZOOLOGICAL PARKCL0000007963 Founded in 1889, a 163-acre zoo with more than 2,000 animals like famed giant pandas. Elephant Trails with a wooded exercise trek. Asia Trail with giant sloths. Solar-powered carousel (fee). Free entry; parking (fee). 3001 Connecticut Ave. NW, 202.673.4888 www.nationalzoo.si.edu.
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THE GUIDE NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUMCL0000007960 Exhibits tracking the natural world since prehistoric time and newly renovated Fossil Hall with exhibit delving into “deep time.” Hope Diamond. Butterfly Pavilion and IMAX theater (fees). Cafe, gift shop. Constitution Ave. at 10th St. NW, 202.633.1000 www.naturalhistory.si.edu. RENWICK GALLERYCL0000007964 Revamped Second Empire-style museum across from White House designed by James Renwick Jr. in 1859. American fine crafts, plus modern works. Gift shop. Free. 17th St. & Pennsylvania Ave. NW, 202.633.1000 www.americanart.si.edu.
VISITOR CENTERS U.S. CAPITOL VISITOR CENTERCL0000041002 The entryway to the U.S. Capitol with artifacts, replicas of Capitol Hill, an 11-foot-tall model of the Capitol dome and interactive kiosks. Tours. Free. Admission to the House or Senate galleries issued by a constituent’s representative or senator. Limited number of same-day passes at the CVC information desks. Below the East Plaza of the Capitol between Constitution & Independence avenues, 202.226.8000 www.visitthecapitol.gov. WHITE HOUSE VISITOR CENTERCL0000007876 Interactive exhibits, photos and videos about the famed residence and its occupants. Free. Gift shop. 1450 Pennsylvania Ave. NW,
202.208.1631 www.nps.gov/whho.
ENTERTAINMENT THEATER & DANCE ARENA STAGECL0000007908 Pioneering, nonprofit staging classic and contemporary productions in a striking glass-walled venue on the Southwest Waterfront. Catwalk Cafe. On-site garage; call to reserve. 1101 6th St. SW, 202.488.3300 www.arenastage.org. H KENNEDY CENTERCL0000071555 Living memorial to President John F. Kennedy with several theaters and new expansion, The Reach for intimate events and art exhibits. Millennium Stage with free shows daily. KC Café and Roof Terrace Restaurant. Tours. Gift shops and terrace with sweeping city views. 2700 F St. NW, 202.467.4600 www.kennedy-center.org. SHAKESPEARE THEATRE COMPANYCL0000064432 Regional Theatre Tony Award winner for the Bard and other playwrights drawing big-name guest stars. Harman, 610 F St. NW, 202.547.1122 Lansburgh, 450 Seventh St. NW, 202.547.1122 www.shakespearetheatre.org.
MUSIC THE ANTHEM Concert venue on The Wharf for big-name rock, pop and indie stars. State-of-the-art sound system, bars. 901 Wharf St. SW, 202.888.0020 www.theanthemdc.com.
BLUES ALLEYCL0000051375 Tucked in an alley south of M Street, the nation’s oldest continuing jazz supper club (1965) has booked artists like Dizzy Gillespie and Charlie Byrd. 1073 Wisconsin Ave. NW, 202.337.4141 www.bluesalley.com. WOLF TRAPCL0000017600 America’s only national park for the performing arts features music and dance in Filene Center, an open-air pavilion with seats plus lawn space. Winter shows in 18th-century barns. 1551 Trap Road, Vienna, Va., 703.255.1900 www.wolftrap.org.
BARS & LOUNGES BARMINICL0000401994 Adjoining his experimental Minibar, celeb chef José Andrés’ sleek cocktail spot with 100-plus original creations and fresh takes on classics. Reservations recommended. 501 9th St. NW, 202.393.4451 www.minibarbyjoseandres.com. COLUMBIA ROOM Spirits guru Derek Brown’s acclaimed cocktail bar, with three spaces. Tasting room (by reservation) with seasonal drinks and amuse-bouches, spirits library (a la carte menu) and terrace. 124 Blagden Alley NW, 202.316.9396. www.columbiaroomdc.com. H SHELLY’S BACK ROOMCL0000059091 For cigar aficionados, a casual but elegant tavern with a state-of-the-art air-ventilation system. Lunch, dinner and late-night menus plus premium cigars and rare whiskeys. 1331 F St. NW, 202.737.3003 www.shellysbackroom.com.
EXPLORE TOURS & TRANSPORT BIG BUS TOURSCL0000038465 The capital from an enclosed first level or open upper deck of a hop-on, hop-off bus with narration. Buses run every 15-30 minutes. From $30. 877.332.8689 www.bigbustours.com. CAPITAL BIKESHARECL0000150830 Wheels for rent at 400-plus stations in D.C., Maryland and Virginia. Pick up at one station and return to any other. Single trip $2. Memberships from 24 hours to three days. First 30 mts. free, then fees apply. 877.430.2453 www.capitalbikeshare.com. DC CIRCULATOR Daily bus system with routes including east-west between Union Station and Georgetown and northsouth between Woodley Park and McPherson Square, plus a National Mall loop. Buses run every 10 mts. $1, children under 5 free (with paying adult). www.dccirculator.com. WASHINGTON METROPOLITAN AREA TRANSIT AUTHORITYCL0000071229 Metrorail and Metrobus transit services. Use the smartphone app or the website’s “Trip Planner” for train/ bus times and prices. Check website for up-to-date fares. Rechargeable SmarTrip card $2. 202.637.7000 www.wmata.com.
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Fight, Finished NINETY FIVE YEARS AFTER THE NATION’S CAPITAL LAST CELEBRATED A MAJOR LEAGUE BASEBALL WORLD SERIES WIN, THE WASHINGTON NATIONALS BROUGHT HOME THE 2019 TROPHY, BESTING FAVORITES THE HOUSTON ASTROS IN A HISTORIC GAME 7 WIN ON THE ROAD.
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PARTING SHOT
Ruthless Criminal. Fearless leader. Snappy dresser. It’s all true, and more. Discover True Law, at the National Law Enforcement Museum