WhereTraveler New Orleans — October 2019 by Where New Orleans

T R AV E L E R S K N O W W H E R E â&#x201E;¢

NEW ORLEANS OCT

GET GOING

BIG EASY BOUTIQUES

Explore lower Magazine Street

10 stores you have to step into

PROMOTION

2019

SCOUT ISLAND SCREAM PARK A Halloween festival filled with fun and thrills for the entire family at New Orleans City Park

A New Orleans Tradition 714 St. Peter • 600 Decatur • 334 Royal • 311 Bourbon

www.cafebeignet.com

VINTAGE CHANEL Miriam Haskell • Dior • Hermes • YSL • Bakelite • Trifari • Taxco Sterling Silver • Designer handbags • Vintage Barware • Original Lithograph Posters • Vintage Sunglasses • mEMENTO mORI

329 Royal St, New Orleans • 504.525.2262 • WWW.VINTAGE329.COM

HIGHEST RATED

STEAKHOUSE IN IN NEW NEW OR OR LEA LEA NS NS

VOT VOT ED ED BY BY OPEN OPEN TA TA BLE BLE DI DI NER NER S' S'

SER SERVING VIN ON G O LY NLY

U US SD P DA A PR RIIM ME E

Open Open 5 5 p.m. p.m. Daily Daily || 322 322 Magazine Magazine Street Street || 504.522.7902 504.522.7902 || chophousenola.com chophousenola.com

ART & EYES. KEEPING THE FACES OF NEW ORLEANS UNIQUE.

3708 Magazine St. 504-891-4494 ArtAndEyesNewOrleansLA.com

ART & EY&S Indy Eyewear Like Nowhere Else

Magazine Worthy

CONTENTS

2019

ESSENTIALS Editor’s Note 8 Ask the Expert 12 Calendar 14 One Block 22 Maps 59 Where Next 62 Parting Shot 64 THE GUIDE Dining 25 Shopping 42 Attractions 48 Entertainment 50 Nightlife 52

Ghost Town

Four fun ways to get your boo on.

Museum Must-Sees

Check out what’s new on the walls at area museums.

21 A roundup of recent restaurant openings. PROMOTION

ON THE

COVER



Scout Island Scream Park’s new Pharaoh’s Fury Haunted House. ©SCOUT ISLAND SCREAM PARK

(FROM TOP) ©CENTURY GIRL; ©CHERYL GERBER; ©OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART; ©ISABELLI MEDIA RELATIONS/BONCI

OCT

On your mark, get set— shop! Magazine Street boutiques you need to scope out.

wheretraveler.com

THE

EDITOR’S NOTE 2019

OCTOBER

DOUG BRANTLEY Editor, WhereTraveler ® New Orleans @whereneworleans

W HERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLE A NS

s you might expect from “America’s most haunted city,” in New Orleans Halloween isn’t just kid stuff but a huge draw for adults as well. Here, ghost and cemetery tours are offered year-round, while vampire and voodoo legends take on a life of their own. The city’s macabre side is big business and—come October—big fun. October also ushers in the city’s cultural season, with touring Broadway shows and bigname music acts pulling into town and galleries extending hours for the citywide Art for Art’s Sake stroll (Oct. 5). And as the weather cools down, New Orleans’ festival season heats up, celebrating everything from beignets to Hollywood South. Saints and Pelicans home games, the opening of the Sazerac House, the 21st annual Voodoo Music + Arts Experience—it’s scary how much there is to do this month.

ACROSS THE WORLD WhereTraveler ® is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in over 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at www.wheretraveler.com. UNITED STATES Atlanta, Boston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Jacksonville/St. Augustine/Amelia Island, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Miami, Minneapolis/St. Paul, New Orleans, New York, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/ Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, St. Louis, Tampa, Tucson, Washington, D.C. ASIA Singapore AUSTRALIA Brisbane, Gold Coast, Melbourne, Sydney CANADA Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Muskoka/ Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg EUROPE Berlin, Budapest, Istanbul, London, Madrid, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg, Turin, Venice

OCTOBER 2019

NEW ORLEANS

- U.S.A. Today

Wood Grilled Redfish & Louisiana Lump Crabmeat Tasso ham & roasted mushrooms, Pontalba potatoes, lemon butter sauce

A Best Seafood Restaurant in U.S.A - Travel & Leisure

115 BOURBON ST, FRENCH QUARTER

Reservations 504-598-1200 • www.redfishgrill.com

Breakfast at “Best Restaurants in the World” - Conde Nast Traveler

“South’s Top 10

Best Restaurants”

- Southern Living Magazine

“Restaurant of the Year”

- New Orleans Magazine

4 1 7 R O YA L S T, F R E N C H Q UA R T E R BREAKFAST / LUNCH

•

DINNER

Reservations 504.525.9711

•

PRIVATE EVENTS

www.brennansneworleans.com

WhereTraveler® magazine is produced by Morris Visitor Publications (MVP), a division of Morris Communications Co., LLC. 725 Broad St., Augusta, GA 30901, www.morrismedianetwork.com. Where magazine and the logo are registered trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications. Where makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited.

Top 10 Seafood Restaurant

EDITORIAL & DESIGN EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Margaret Martin MANAGING EDITOR

Jennifer McKee EDITOR

Doug Brantley CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Jennifer Keller Vaz PHOTO EDITOR

Vincent Hobbs EXECUTIVE PRESIDENT

Donna W. Kessler CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER

Dennis Kelly

VICE PRESIDENT, OPERATIONS

Angela E. Allen

DIRECTOR OF DIGITAL OPERATIONS

Jamie Turner

DIRECTOR OF CIRCULATION

Scott Ferguson

CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER CUSTOM PUBLICATIONS

Haines Wilkerson

MANUFACTURING & PUBLICATION SERVICES DIRECTOR OF MANUFACTURING

Donald Horton

PUBLICATION SERVICES DIRECTOR

Karen Fralick

PUBLICATION SERVICES MANAGER

Mickey Kibler

IMAGE AND RETOUCH MANAGER

Erik Lewis

HOSPITALITY RELATIONS & DISTRIBUTION REGIONAL MANAGER

Amy Fenster Brown ADVERTISING JAMES G. ELLIOTT CO., INC. EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR

Pat O’Donnell

GROUP PUBLISHER SOUTHEAST REGION

Mark Reid PUBLISHER

Lois Sutton, 504.522.6468, l.sutton@jgeco.com MARKET MANAGERS

Stephanie Cantrell, 504.522.6468, s.cantrell@jgeco.com Ashlea Kelly, 504.522.6468, a.kelly@jgeco.com Emails for MVP employees except contributors: firstname.lastname@morris.com

MVP | NEW ORLEANS 324 Chartres St, 2nd fl., New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 504.522.6468 MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS

CHAIRMAN

William S. Morris III PRESIDENT & CEO

William S. Morris IV

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Not valid on select brands. Exp. 10/31/2019.

Metairie

French Quarter

Uptown

Mid City

3000 Severn Ave.

539 Bienville St.

2109 Magazine St.

509 N.Carrolltion

504.888.7080

504.875.2929

504.309.7702

504.324.7718

www.Orleansshoes.com



EXPERT TIP: Don’t overplan your stay—explore.

Museum of Art, which has a beautiful location in City Park.

it’s the oldest. There are some very historic people buried there—voodoo queen Marie Laveau; Paul Morphy, the world chess champion; Étienne de Boré, who pioneered the sugar industry—and really interesting tombs. Also Lafayette No. 1, which can be combined with visiting the Garden District and Magazine Street area; you can take the St. Charles streetcar there. Q: YOUR HOTEL CLAIMS SEVERAL RESIDENT GHOSTS. HAVE YOU EVER ENCOUNTERED ANY? A: I have not. But every

CONCIERGE AT THE HOTEL MONTELEONE

have a guest come tell me something they’ve experienced—everything from hearing children playing in the hallways to feeling someone tap on their shoulder, though no one is there.

Q: WHICH MUSEUMS DO YOU MOST OFTEN RECOMMEND? A: The National WWII

Museum is so interactive and educational; it’s got to be one of the top museums in the world. Also the New Orleans

I just love the décor and atmosphere, it feels like you’re in Paris. Also Loa at the International House, the bartender there is very innovative, and, of course, the Monteleone’s Carousel Bar. Q: VOODOO FEST OR JIM MONAGHAN’S HALLOWEEN PARADE: WHERE ARE WE MOST LIKELY TO FIND YOU? A: I’ll be outside Tu-

jague’s waiting for the parade. That’s my spot!



couple of months I’ll

ANITA GRAVESON

I just love Arnaud’s French 75, it feels like you’re in Paris.

Q: “WICKED” RETURNS TO THE SAENGER THIS MONTH. SUGGEST THREE SPOTS FOR WICKED-GOOD, PRE-THEATER COCKTAILS. A: Arnaud’s French 75;

©SHAWN FINK

Q: GIVEN YOUR LAST NAME, YOU MUST BE WELL VERSED IN THE CITY’S CEMETERIES. WHICH DO YOU SUGGEST GUESTS VISIT? A: St. Louis No. 1, since

W HERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLE A NS

OCTOBER 2019

EARTH & SKY. Exhibition runs through December. CLAIRE McARDLE. DOUG FOLTZ. COURTNEY GARRETT. JENNIFER MOSES. LESLIE SOKOLOW. CLYDE BUTCHER. 221 royal street.

french quarter.

tele. 504.586.0202.

windsorfineart.com

W H E R E T R AV E L E R . C O M

THE

CALENDAR

VOODOO EXPERIENCE

2019

The Voodoo Music + Arts Experience officially comes of age this month at City Park’s Festival Grounds. Over the past 21 years, the annual ritual has grown from a small hometown happening to a massive must-see packed with national notables. More than 60 top-tier acts (including Post Malone, Beck, Brandi Carlile and Guns ’n’ Roses) share multiple stages spread among centuries-old, moss-draped oaks, while interactive art installations and costumed festgoers add to the carnival atmosphere. www.voodoofestival.com



©CAMBRIA HARKEY PHOTOGRAPHY

OCTOBER

OCTOBER 25-27

VOODOO EXPERIENCE

W HERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLE A NS

OCTOBER 2019

 WHAT’S HAPPENING

THE LINEUP

“WICKED”



(LEFT) ©JOAN MARCUS; (RIGHT) ©MICHAEL C. HEBERT

7 GREAT THINGS THIS MONTH “Wicked” Oct. 2-20 Something wicked this way comes. Catch the Tony-winning musical when it lands at the Saenger Theatre. www.saengernola.com

Miranda Lambert Oct. 4 The country crooner pulls into the Smoothie King Center on her “Roadside Bars & Pink Guitars” tour. www.smoothiekingcenter.com Beignet Fest Oct. 5 This family friendly salute to the city’s signature pastry also features performances by the Imagination Movers and other local favorites at City Park. www.beignetfest.com New Orleans Saints Oct. 6 & 27 The Black and Gold take on the Tampa Bay Buccaneers at the Mercedes-Benz

Superdome (Oct. 6), before tackling the Arizona Cardinals (Oct. 27). Both kickoffs take place at noon. www.mbsuperdome.com New Orleans Pelicans Oct. 11 Top NBA draft pick Zion Williamson makes his Big Easy debut with this preseason matchup against the Utah Jazz at the Smoothie King Center. For a full roster of October home games, visit www. smoothieking center.com. New Orleans Film Festival Oct. 16-23 Counted among the “top 25

W H E R E T R AV E L E R . C O M / N E W- O R L E A N S / E V E N T S

N.O. SAINTS

coolest film festivals in the world,” this 30th annual, Academy-accredited competition offers more than 200 screenings at venues citywide. www.neworleans filmsociety.org Crescent City Blues and BBQ Festival Oct. 18-20 What’s not to love about amazing live music and killer barbecue amid the great outdoors? Little Freddie King, Tab Benoit and the Allman-Betts Band are just a taste of the dozen-plus acts you’ll find performing during this free fete at Lafayette Square. www.jazzandheritage.org/ blues-fest

NEW ORLEANS

WHERE NOW

W H E R E T R AV E L E R . C O M

DARK GARDEN

Magazine Worthy Ten stores you need to put on your shopping list Doug Brantley & Lorin Gaudin

Known as “the street of dreams,” Magazine Street—a diverse mix of retail stores, art galleries and cafés—is a shopper’s paradise. Stretching six miles, one could easily spend a full day (or two) exploring all Magazine has to offer. To help narrow the hunt, we’ve highlighted a few of our faves to step into along the way.



(TOP) ©INLOW GUITARS; (BOTTOM) ©ELLEN MACOMBER; (OPENING PAGE) ©DARK GARDEN/JOEL ARON

ELLEN MACOMBER The shop: Part art gallery/part offbeat boutique, Macomber’s appointment-only showroom is worth planning ahead for. Once inside you’ll discover kooky sequined and appliquéd caftans, dramatic velvet capes and kitschy string clutches, along with street map-inspired textiles. The get: New Orleans-map pillows, totes, baby bibs and bow ties. 1518 Magazine St., 504.314.9414; www.ellenmacomber.com

SUNDAY SHOP The shop: White walls, open shelving and ample floor space showcase a large and eclectic collection of clean-lined housewares, furniture, bedding, art, fragrance and more. Wander and wonder. The get: Elegant and useful Portuguese journals and a handful of excellent brushes for dish, desktop and dusting. 2025 Magazine St., 504.342.2087; www.sundayshop.co

INLOW GUITARS

JACI BLUE The shop: A women’s boutique where body positivity reigns supreme, drapes the racks and is the theme of the store’s book collection on the subject. The get: Current, pretty and comfy fashions and foundations for sizes 12 and up. Swingy tops and dresses organized by color, wide-leg pants and cute active wear. 2111 Magazine St., 504.603.2929; www.jaciblue.com

INLOW GUITARS The shop: A musically inclined man cave outfitted with the requisite leather sofa and bar, a pick-shaped side table and dozens of vintage guitars, from early Gibson Style Os to artist-owned electrics. Wanna play? Have at it. The get: A $60K, mint-condition 1952 Fender Telecaster…or a $10 slide. 1700 Magazine St., 504.324.8137; www.inlowguitarsnola.com CENTURY GIRL The shop: A bright, glittery women’s clothing and accessories emporium that steps back in time. Look close for hidden gems, and read the handwritten tags; they’re filled with information. The get: Gorgeous vintage fashions and beautiful designer costume jewelry from the likes of Oscar de la Renta, Tricori, et al. 2023 Magazine St., 504.875.3105; www.centurygirlvintage.com ELLEN MACOMBER

GOORIN BROS. The shop: A 200-year-old building that once housed a bank, now home to hip headwear. A cool, retro air permeates the place, with shelves lined with iconic hat styles, including packable varieties for trendy travelers. The get: Timeless fedoras, sturdy straw Panamas and playful baseball caps. 2127 Magazine St., 504.522.1890; www.goorin.com DARK GARDEN The shop: An offshoot of the acclaimed San Francisco corsetry and couture store, famed for its handcrafted, bespoke designs. A favorite of neo-burlesque glamour-puss Dita von Teese. The get: Historically inspired, customized corsets for “every size, every gender, every shape, every aesthetic” and out-of-the-norm bridal wear. 3528 Magazine St., 504.417.9751; www.darkgarden.com/nola

HOME MALONE The shop: A bright, welcoming converted Victorian home filled with Crescent City collectibles, Southern-centric home décor and fun gift items. The get: You’ll literally find something for everyone, from gator-accented onesies and locally made nail polish to NOLA-themed dish towels and papier mâché Mardi Gras float flowers. 4610 Magazine St., 504.766.6148; www.homemalonenola.com

THE BEAD SHOP The shop: A stunning wonderland of beads, trinkets, stones and sterling silver to make your own jewelry, staffed by knowledgeable crafters. The get: Strands, bags and bottles of beads, jewelry-making tools and supplies, as well as premade bracelets, earrings and necklaces with a local vibe too adorable to pass up. 4612 Magazine St., 504.895.6161; www.beadshopneworleans.com

LADY DELANEY’S IMAGINARIUM The shop: A petite jewel box filled with itsy-bitsy works of art. Pint-sized paper dresses, teeny-tiny literary tomes, meticulous mini macarons, microscopic butterflies: If you can imagine it, miniaturist Lauren Delaney can create it. The get: “Whimsical whatnots,” DIY kits and handmade candies. 3719 Magazine St., 269.271.1707; www.ladydelaney.com (FROM LEFT) LADY DELANEY’S IMAGINARIUM, HOME MALONE AND THE BEAD SHOP

W HERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLE A NS

OCTOBER 2019



GOORIN BROS. (LEFT) AND CENTURY GIRL

(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT) ©GOORIN BROS.; ©CENTURY GIRL; ©HOME MALONE; ©THE BEAD SHOP; ©LADY DELANEY’S IMAGINARIUM; (OPPOSITE PAGE) ©CHERYL GERBER

Where Now

Ghost Town

JIM MONAGHAN’S HALLOWEEN PARADE

“America’s most haunted city” gets even spookier during October with fun Halloween happenings taking place all over town. The family friendly Krewe of Boo Parade (www.kreweofboo.com) hits the streets of the French Quarter Oct. 19 at 6:30 pm., followed by the more adult-minded Jim Monaghan’s Halloween Parade Oct. 31. Want to really ramp up the fear factor? Pay a visit to the Mortuary Haunted House (www.themortuary.net), located in a former funeral parlor, or City Park’s Scout Island Scream Park (www.scoutislandscreampark.com), both of which run throughout the month…if you dare.

NEW ORLEANS

WHERE NOW

Museum Must-Sees

What’s new, notable and not to be missed

“TINA FREEMAN: LAMENTATIONS,” “ENIGMATIC STREAM,” “LOUISIANA CONTEMPORARY” AND THE SAZERAC HOUSE

Fans of the city’s signature cocktail will want to toast the new Sazerac House. Opening Oct. 2, the free 48,000 squarefoot facility features a variety of hands-on exhibits, from the evolution of New Orleans’ cocktail culture to the history of rum, along with tastings. An onsite, two-story still will produce rye whiskey daily, while guests get to create their own bitters to take home. www.sazerachouse.com

New Orleans Museum of Art

Multimedia artist Dawn DeDeaux gets her first full-on retrospective with The Space Between Worlds, beginning Oct. 2. Spanning five decades, with an emphasis on social justice and environmentalism, the exhibit includes video, photography and performance installations. Also on view is Tina Freeman: Lamentations, which examines climate change by pairing photos of Louisiana wetlands with images of Antarctica. www.noma.org

W HERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLE A NS

Ogden Museum of Southern Art

The annual Louisiana Contemporary exhibition spotlights 23 up-and-coming talents from around the state through 44 works, ranging from painting and photography to sculpture and mixed media. Also on exhibit beginning Oct. 5: Memory Is a Strange Bell: The Art of William Christenberry. www.ogdenmuseum.org

The Historic New Orleans Collection

The HNOC’s newest exhibit is framed by its latest book release, Enigmatic Stream, by photographer Richard Sexton. In stark black and white, Sexton focuses on the lower Mississippi’s industrial landscapes, juxtaposing the river’s natural beauty with its commercial exploitation. Also on view: Seeking an Open Life: Photographs of Lafcadio Hearn’s Japan (opening Oct. 10) and The New Orleans Drawings of Gaston de Pontalba, 1848-1851 (beginning Oct. 29). www.hnoc.org

OCTOBER 2019



Sazerac House Museum CLOCKWISE FROM TOP:

(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP) ©NOMA; ©HNOC; ©OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART; ©SAZERAC HOUSE

W H E R E T R AV E L E R . C O M

A TASTE OF THE TOWN W

e see no slowing in the growth of New Orleans’ restaurant scene. Taste and cuisine diversity is seeing a fascinating uptick, as diners clamor for more of the same and something different. Here’s what’s new on the table. Lorin Gaudin

Just off Magazine Street, this new spot has a casual vibe and simple-yet-sophisticated food. Try the “cheese salad” of creamy burrata with pesto and grape slices and the stunning gemelli pasta

THE DAILY BEET This mostly vegetarian restaurant was once a burger joint. Ironic, no? In addition to popular smoothies, toasts and bowls, dive into fabulous Banana Oatmeal Pancakes with strawberry crema or a Beet Benedict with avocado mash and miso-beet Hollandaise. 3300 Magazine St., 504.766.0377

BONCI Imagine a large case filled by giant rectangular pizzas

with a variety of toppings. Imagine paying by weight and that pay means “no cash.” That’s Bonci, the third U.S. outlet of this Roman-born “pizzarium,” and it’s delicious fun. 726 Julia St., 504.766.6071

LONG CHIM Tucked in the Auction House Market, this Thai cuisine stall has many dishes worth trying, both meaty and plant-based. Start with the Green Papaya salad, any/all of the dumplings, deep and soothing Kao Soi soup, a noodle dish and definitely get dessert…or maybe start with dessert and work backward. 801 Magazine St., 504.372.4321



(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT) ©ISABELLI MEDIA RELATIONS/BONCI; ©LONG CHIM; ©RUSH JAGOE/THE DAILY BEET; ©LORIN GAUDIN

THALIA

Bolognese topped with cool ricotta. For dessert, order the airy meringueand-crème anglaise Floating Island. 1245 Constance St., 504.655.1338

(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT) BONCI, LONG CHIM, THE DAILY BEET AND THALIA

F O R M O R E T H I N G S T O D O O N M A G A Z I N E S T R E E T, V I S I T W H E R E T R AV E L E R . C O M

ONE BLOCK FIND THE BEST ON

MAGAZINE STREET

FROM TOP: AN AFTERDARK BIKE TOUR, A LUCKY DOG CART, THE ELIZA JANE AND COUVANT.

SEE

EAT

SHOP

PLAY

Raise a glass to “the official cocktail of New Orleans” at the Sazerac House museum. Sidestep onto Gravier Street to sneak a peek at the wiener-shaped Lucky Dog pushcarts, made famous in “A Confederacy of Dunces,” then take a stroll through the Eliza Jane hotel’s cool lobby and courtyard, carved out of seven historic warehouses.

Get the day underway with breakfast and bloody marys at the Ruby Slipper. Couvant’s menu focus is full-on French—steak tartare, Lyonnaise salads, moules frites. At the Chophouse it’s all about USDA prime beef and seasonal stone crabs.

Open 24/7, the Everything Shoppe lives up to its moniker with everything from convenience-store staples and tacky souvenirs to a huge selection of booze and wine. Bag a few signature glasses from the Sazerac House, before checking out the easy-breezy women’s wear at Farrah’s.

In addition to rentals, Buzz NOLA offers guided electric-bike tours and weekend nighttime rides on blinged-out cruisers. Hang with the hipsters at the Eliza Jane’s atrium bar, or grab a local brew with the service-industry crowd at the aptly named Little Bar on Gravier.

 The Everything Shoppe

 Buzz NOLA

 Ruby Slipper Café 200 Magazine St., 504.525.9355

 Sazerac House

 Couvant

101 Magazine St., 504.910.0107; www.sazerachouse.com

317 Magazine St., 504.324.5400; www.couvant.com

444 Canal St., 504.568.9634

214 Magazine St.,504.533.9688; www.buzznola.com

 Sazerac House

 The Eliza Jane

 Lucky Dogs Inc.

 Chophouse New Orleans

101 Magazine St., 504.910.0107; www.sazerachouse.com

315 Magazine St., 504.882.1234

322 Magazine St., 504.522.7902; www.chophousenola.com

 Farrah Boutique

 The Little Bar on Gravier

301 Magazine St., 504.372.5450

510 Gravier St., 504.333.6665

517 Gravier St.

 The Eliza Jane 315 Magazine St., 504.882.1234

W HERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLE A NS

OCTOBER 2019



CLOCKWISE

(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP) ©ZACK SMITH/NEWORLEANS.COM; ©VICTOR WONG/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; ©THE ELIZA JANE; ©ANDREW THOMAS LEE/COUVANT

BETWEEN CANAL AND NATCHEZ

THE

GUIDE OUR

CHICKEN OF THE SWAMP For a taste of the bayou, grab a table at Cochon (p. 26), where the menu is built around Cajun comfort classics like fried alligator with chiligarlic mayo (shown).

FAVORITES

LOOK FOR our featured advertisers throughout the Guide.



©COCHON

Dining

DINING Central Business/ Warehouse District THE AMERICAN SECTOR American. A nostalgic homage to wartime classics with gourmet twists, the menu at this National WWII Museum eatery features such kicked-up throwbacks as Frito pie. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1940. Map 3, B6; www.ww2eats.com ANNUNCIATION Southern. Contemporary takes on traditional Southern and Creole fare is the draw here. Country-fried sweetbreads with cheddar grits, crabtopped grilled pompano, banana pudding crème brulee—yes, yes and yes, please. D (Th-M). 1016 Annunciation St., 504.568.0245. Map 3, B7; www.annunciation restaurant.com

BAR MARILOU French. With its swanky sofas and blood-red walls, this Parisian-accented space is perfect for sipping an afternoon appertif while nibbling on sophisticated bites, such as crisped potato stacks topped with crème fraïche and caviar. 544 Carondelet St., 504.814.7711. Map 3, D4; www.barmarilou.com BORGNE Seafood. At this seafoodcentric eatery, fantastic apps (such as duck-and-jalapeno poppers) partner swimmingly with easygoing sandwiches, Gulf fish a la pancha and more. L, D (daily). 601 Loyola Ave., 504.613.3860. Map 3, C3; www.borgnerestaurant.com

THE GUIDE

AUCTION HOUSE MARKET Eclectic. This bright, modern food hall offers a variety of vendors and flavors, from fresh local seafood to Indian, Thai and Hawaiian-inspired cuisines. B, L, D (daily). 801 Magazine St., 504.372.4321. Map 3, C6; www.auction housemarket.com

CAFÉ CARMO International. This islandinspired space pops out some wild—and wildly delicious— dishes, such as the zany Rico sandwich (a grilled plantain patty topped with pulled pork) and shrimp-filled, black-eyed pea fritters. Veggie and vegan options are also featured. B, L (M-Sa), D (Tu-Sa). 527 Julia St., 504.875.4132. Map 3, C6; www.cafecarmo.com CHOPHOUSE NEW ORLEANS Steaks. Forget the standard sauces and heavy sides; the focus at this upscale-casual steakhouse is on its top-quality, USDA prime-only meats. D (nightly). 322 Magazine St., 504.522.7902. Map 3, D5; www.chophousenola.com

D IN IN G

COCHON Louisiana. Many restaurants profess to be “better than your mama’s,” but chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski’s lives up to the claim with haute twists on Cajun standards. The adjacent Cochon Butcher offers sandwiches and house-cured meats. L, D (daily). 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.588.2123. Map 3, B7; www.cochonrestaurant.com COMPANY BURGER American. Adam Biderman’s award-winning burger joint sticks to the basics, which makes it all the better. L, D (daily). 611 O’Keefe St., 504.309.9422. Map 3, C4; 4600 Freret St., 504.267.0320. Map 1, D3; www.thecompany burger.com COMPÈRE LAPIN Caribbean. A native of St. Lucia, chef Nina Compton’s island upbringing is evident in dishes such as conch croquettes with pineapple tartar sauce and curried goat with sweet potato gnocchi. L, (M-F); D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 535 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.599.2119. Map 3, C6; www.comperelapin.com COPPER VINE American. Along with 30 varietals on tap and an additional 20 by the glass, this easygoing “wine pub” serves up caviar-topped oysters and heartier fare, such as skirt steak with

W HERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLE A NS

Elegant Northern Italian Cuisine in a Quaint French Quarter Setting

430 Barracks Street (near the Historic French Market)

www.italianbarrel.com Reservations: 504.569.0198 | Catering or Private Parties: 504.982.6969 Open: Sunday - �ursday 11am - 10pm; Friday - Saturday 11am - 11pm Italian Breakfast: Monday - Friday 8am -11am; Saturday & Sunday 9am - 12pm

Reservations Recommended

Fresh oysters, Southern-inspired cocktails and weekend brunch from 11am–3pm, starting August 31.

630 Carondelet St. 504 930 3071 @seaworthynola seaworthynola.com

OCTOBER 2019

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THE BOY!

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duck fat fries. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 1001 Poydras St., 504.208.9535. Map 3, C4. www.coppervinewine.com COUVANT French. A slick, contemporary French bistro inside the Eliza Jane hotel. Standouts include English peas with duck egg and lardons, hanger steak Bordelaise and moules frites. B, L, D (daily); Br (Su). 315 Magazine St., 504.324.5400. Map 3, D5; www.couvant.com THE DAILY BEET Vegetarian. Light, healthy eats and cold-pressed juices are the draw at this industrial-chic café. Tuck into a shaved Brussels sprouts salad or an Orbit Bowl of warm wild rice, avocado, runny egg, kimchi and pickled veg. B, L, D (daily). 1000 Girod St., 504.605.4413. Map 3, B4; 3300 Magazine St., 504.766.0377. Map 1, D4 www.thedailybeetnola.com

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DOMENICA Italian. Out-of-the-norm antipasta (roasted cauliflower with whipped feta), handmade pastas, authentic pizzas and Old World classics such as lasagne Bolonese. Mangia, mangia! L, D (daily). 123 Baronne St., 504.648.6020. Map 3, E3; www.domenicarestaurant.com

A new spirited sanctuary for cocktails, French fare and easy elegance. Located at Maison de la Luz and in partnership with Parisian group Quixotic Projects. 544 Carondelet Street

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@barmarilou

EMERIL’S Louisiana. Emeril Lagasse’s flagship sets the course for the Lagasse empire. Opened in 1990, this is where the celebrated chef created many of his classic dishes, including barbecued shrimp, andouille-crusted drum and more. L (M-F), D (nightly). 800 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.528.9393. Map 3, C6; www.emerils.com GIANNA Italian. James Beard Awardwinning chef Rebecca Wilcomb pays tribute to her grandmother with homey fare, such as creamy polenta with lamb-sausage gravy, tortellini in bordo and veal saltimbocca. 700 Magazine St, 504.399.0816. Map 3, C6; www.gianna restaurant.com GRILL ROOM Contemporary. The fine dining room at the Windsor Court

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Enjoy an afternoon drink on our courtyard Happy Hour 3-6 PM Daily in our Oyster Bar! Book your reservation on Open Table.

510 Toulouse St. | NEWORLEANSCREOLECOOKERY.COM OCTOBER 2019

Hotel is a favorite of both locals and visitors. Refined yet relaxed, the Grill Room features innovative American cuisine that’s strong on Southern influences and local ingredients. B, D (daily), L (M-F); jazz Br (Sa-Su). 300 Gravier St., 504.522.1994. Map 3, D6: www.windsorcourthotel.com HERBSAINT French. One of the city’s premier fine dining spots. The award-winning menu changes fequently, with entrées such as confit of Muscovy duck leg with dirty rice. L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 701 St. Charles Ave., 504.524.4114. Map 3, C5; www.herbsaint.com

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JOHNNY SÁNCHEZ Mexican. Squash blossom tacos, pig ear chilaquiles, octopus toastadas—this isn’t your standard taqueria fare. Celebrity chef Aarón Sánchez’s hot spot puts contemporary spins on authentic Mexican cuisine. L, D (daily). 930 Poydras St., 504.304.6615. Map 3, C4; www.johnnysanchez restaurant.com LÜKE International. A throwback to Old World New Orleans brasseries. German specialties, such as pork schnitzel, meld with classic French bistro fare and fresh Louisiana seafood. B, L, D (daily). 333 St. Charles Ave., 504.378.2840. Map 3, D4; www.lukeneworleans.com MAYPOP Vietnamese. Asian-fusion food in a bright, open space. Tear pieces of warm roti bread to scoop whole roasted pumpkin, apple and house coppa, or go spicy with vindaloo chicken. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 611 O’Keefe St., 504.518.6345.Map 3, B4 ; www.maypop restaurant.com MERIL International. Emeril Lagasse’s casual dining venue is reflective of the chef ’s world travels, with a globetrotting menu featuring everything from Japanese-style barbecue to pork rib tamales. L, D (daily). 424 Girod St., 504.526.3745. Map 3, C6; www.emerils.com

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JUST STEPS AWAY FROM

THE ALGIERS POINT FERRY! OCTOBER 2019

1016 Annunciation Street New Orleans, LA 1016 Annunciation Street New Orleans, LA 504-568-0245 • www.annunciationrestaurant.com 504-568-0245 • www.annunciationrestaurant.com 1016 Annunciation Street New Orleans, LA

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For special event inquiries email ksparks.annunciation@gmail.com For special event inquiries email ksparks.annunciation@gmail.com ® for a complimentary For special event inquiries email ksparks.annunciation@gmail.com Mention WhereTraveler ® for a complimentary Mention glass of WhereTraveler house wine with entree purchase.

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OTRA VEZ Mexican. Modern Mexican is the get at this Southern offshoot of Brooklyn’s Alta Calidad. Yuca tater tots, fried tempura shrimp tacos, crawfish chile rellenos— sí! L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (SaSu). 1001 Julia St., 504.354.8194. Map 3, B4; www.otraveznola.com PÊCHE Seafood. The focus here is on chef Ryan Prewitt’s simple seafood grilled over hardwood coals...and it couldn’t be better. From the raw bar to the whole grilled fish, you can’t go wrong. L, D (daily). 800 Magazine St., 504.522.1744. Map 3, C6; www.pecherestaurant.com RED GRAVY Italian. This cozy brunch bistro offers traditional Italian dishes and not-so-typical breakfast and lunch specials. Try the Sicilian egg pie or cannoli pancakes. Open W-M. 125 Camp St., 504.561.8844. Map 3, E5; www.redgravycafe.com

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RESTAURANT AUGUST French. Fine dining at its finest. The surroundings are elegant, and the food is spectacular, combining European style with Gulf Coast ingredients for dishes such as gnocchi with crab and truffles. L (MF), D (nightly); Su brunch. 301 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.299.9777. Map 3, E5; www.restaurant august.com RUTH’S CHRIS STEAKHOUSE Steaks. Founded in 1965, this Crescent City classic, famed for its superb, sizzling steaks and seafood, now has locations around the world. L, D (daily). 525 Fulton St., 504.587.7099. Map 3, D6; www.ruthschris.com SEAWORTHY Seafood. This offshoot of New York’s Grand Banks oyster bar casts a wide net, serving up fresh bivalves from the Gulf, East and West coasts and other sustainably sourced seafood. D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 630 Carondelet St., 504.930.3071. Map 3, C5; www.seaworthy nola.com

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ST. JAMES CHEESE COMPANY Deli. The St. James is a “deli” in the manner that Venice’s Cipriani is a “hotel.” The shop has top-of-the-line delicacies beginning with cheese, of course, and running through olives, salads, breads, pâtés, wines and on and on. L (MSa), D (Th-Sa); Br (Su). 641 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.304.1485. Map 3, C6; www.stjames cheese.com TSUNAMI Sushi. At this sprawling sushi emporium the usual sushi suspects sit menu-side with funky items like calamari “fries.” Big appetites will want to hit the Sumo Ribeye. L, D (M-Sa). 601 Poydras St., 504.608.3474. Map 3, C5; www.serving sushi.com WILLA JEAN BAKERY Contemporary. Pastry chef Kelly Fields, known for her beautiful baked goods, shows off her savory side as well in dishes such as braised lamb pasta with mint pesto. B, L (MF); D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 611 O’Keefe Ave., 504.509.7334. Map 3, B4; www.willajean.com

Central City CENTRAL CITY BBQ Barbecue. Stellar barbecue and kicked-up sides make this sprawling smokehouse a popular destination. L, D (daily). 1201 S. Rampart St., 504.558.4276. Map 1, D3; www.centralcitybbq.com MAÎS AREPAS Latin. An upscale CreoleColombian restaurant that puts overstuffed, filled corn pockets (arepas) front and center. L (TuSa), D (Tu-Su). 1200 Carondelet St., 504.523.6247. Map 3, A5 TOUPS SOUTH Southern. Chef Isaac Toups creates museum-quality cuisine at the Southern Food and Beverage Museum’s in-house eatery. Biscuits with crab fat butter, goat tamales and fried black-eyed pea salad offer a taste of the region’s delicious diversity. L, D (M, W-Sa); Br (SaSu). 1504 Oretha Castle Haley

OCTOBER 2019

French Quarter ACME OYSTER HOUSE Seafood. For locals, the name Acme is synonymous with raw oysters. Since 1910, Acme’s signature marble-topped bar has served up countless bivalves on the half shell. Other regional specialties include fried oyster po’boys, gumbo Poopa and jambalaya. L, D (daily). 724 Iberville St., 504.522.5973. Map 3, E4; 8 Canal St. (inside Harrah’s Casino), 504.708.2409. Map 3, E6; www.acmeoyster.com

ARNAUD’S Creole. In this magic castle of dining rooms, Arnaud’s continues a tradition begun in 1918. Shrimp Arnaud, oysters Bienville and café brûlot are three of the many famous dishes. D (daily); jazz brunch (Su). 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4; www.arnauds.com BACKSPACE BAR & KITCHEN AMERICAN. This comfy spot pays homage to the French Quarter’s rich literary legacy. The bar serves drinks fashioned after famed authors’ faves, while the kitchen offers gumbo and sandwiches. L, D (daily). 139 Chatres St., 504.322.2245. Map 3, F4; wwww.backspace nola.com BAYONA American. Chef Susan Spicer’s menu continually surprises with fresh specials, but still includes her signatures: grilled shrimp with black-bean cakes and coriander sauce, and that nonpareil garlic soup. L (W-Sa), D (M-Sa). 430 Dauphine St.,

BOURBON HOUSE Seafood. A standout addition to Dickie Brennan’s restaurant empire. Stylish seafood dishes share menu space with outstanding filets and sides—don’t miss the redfish on the half shell with jumbo lump crab or the bourbon-glazed shrimp. B, L, D (daily). 144 Bourbon St., 504.522.0111. Map 3, E4; www.bourbonhouse.com BRENNAN’S Creole. The legendary establishment continues more than seven decades of tradition with long-popular classics (turtle soup, eggs Hussarde, bananas Foster) coupled with fresh, contemporary takes on Creole cuisine. B, L, D (daily). 417 Royal St., 504.525.9711. Map 3, F4; www.brennansneworleans.com CAFÉ BEIGNET Coffee. Along with the city’s signature pastry and all-day breakfast, these cafés serve up small bites of Cajun classics. B, L, D (daily). 311 Bourbon St., 504.525.2611. Map 3, F4; 334-B Royal St., 504.524.5530. Map 3, F4; 600 Decatur St., 504.581.6554. Map 3, G5; www.cafebeignet.com CAFÉ DU MONDE Coffee. In operation since 1862, Café Du Monde is a must-do. On the menu: café au lait and beignets, the unofficial doughnuts of New Orleans. Open 24h (daily). 800 Decatur St., 504.525.4544. Map 3, G5; www.cafedumonde.com CANE & TABLE Cuban. This rum-centric restaurant provides a taste of the city’s Caribbean connection. Classic cocktails are given clever contemporary twists, while island flavors inform the “seasonal smart” menu. D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 1113 Decatur St., 504.581.1112. Map 3, I5; www.caneandtablenola.com CENTRAL GROCERY Deli. This Italian deli-grocery is the place to acquaint yourself with the classic muffuletta sandwich: layers of provolone cheese, olive salad, pickled vegetables, mortadella, salami and

THE GUIDE

ANTOINE’S Creole. Established in 1840, Antoine’s is New Orleans’ oldest restaurant and a living treasure with rich French-Creole food, courtly waiters and an atmosphere of hospitality and tradition. L, D (M-Sa); Su jazz brunch. 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, F4; www.antoines.com

504.525.4455. Map 3, F3; www.bayona.com

Dining

Blvd., 504.304.2147. Map 1, D3; www.toupssouth.com

ham. L (daily). 923 Decatur St., 504.523.1620. Map 3, H5; www.centralgrocery.com COURT OF TWO SISTERS Creole. No French Quarter visit would be complete without a meal at this romantic restaurant, which features a daily jazz brunch and a nightly a la carte menu of Creole and Cajun cuisine. Br, D (daily). 613 Royal St., 504.522.7261. Map 3, G4; www.courtoftwosisters.com DEANIE’S Seafood. For years locals have driven to the lakefront Deanie’s for groaning boards of freshly fried seafood and grilled fish. Its French Quarter location offers the same great menu in posher surroundings. L, D (daily). 841 Iberville St., 504.581.1316. Map 3, E4; www.deanies.com

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DIAN XIN Chinese. Dim sum craving? Satisfy it here. Steamed pork dumplings, crab-and-crawfish bao, salt-and-pepper squid; the menu goes on and on. L (Su), D (Tu-Su). 504.266.2828. Map 3, I4 DICKIE BRENNAN’S STEAKHOUSE Steaks. An upscale steakhouse serving superior USDA prime beef with luscious sauces—try the barbecued rib-eye topped with Abita-beer shrimp or the filet with flash-fried oysters. D (nightly). 716 Iberville St., 504.522.2467. Map 3, E4; www.dickiebrennanssteak house.com DORIS METROPOLITAN Steaks. A stunning steakhouse and butcher shop with superior quality dry-aged meats. The menu impresses with an eclectic collection of specialty cuts and an extensive wine list. L (F), D (nightly). 620 Chartres St., 504.267.3500. Map 3, G4; www.dorismetropolitan.com FRENCH TOAST Breakfast. Breakfast is the focus of this popular French Quarter spot. There are sweet and savory crepes, perfectly rolled omelets and, of course, a variety of toasts (avocado and egg, ratatouille and ricotta). B, L (daily). 1035 Decatur St.,

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504.300.5518. Map 3, H5; www.toastneworleans.com GALATOIRE’S Creole. Since 1905, Galatoire’s has been a gravity center of New Orleans. Happily, the food is as good as the party atmosphere, with traditional Creole dishes presented by some of the city’s best waitstaff. L, D (Tu-Su). 209 Bourbon St., 504.525.2021. Map 3, E4; www.galatoires.com

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GREEN GODDESS Eclectic. Chef Paul Artigues turns out adventurous dishes from this tiny kitchen. Possibly the only place in town you’ll find truffle-Manchego grits sharing menu space with grilled lemongrass tofu po’boys. L, D (W-Su). 307 Exchange Pl., 504.301.3347.Map 3, E4; www.greengoddess restaurant.com GW FINS Seafood. Chef Tenney Flynn has taken the local obsession with seafood to global heights: Fresh fish is flown in daily from around the world. Irish salmon and New Zealand lobster rub shoulders with Gulf shrimp and Louisiana duck on the menu, all exquisitely prepared. D (nightly). 808 Bienville St., 504.581.3467. Map 3, F4; www.gwfins.com

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HARD ROCK CAFÉ American. This popular chain, filled with music memorabilia, serves regional and American fare, including steaks, burgers, sandwiches and wings. L, D (daily). 125 Bourbon St., 504.529.5617. Map 3, F4; www.hardrockcafe.com

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IRENE’S CUISINE Italian. Irene’s is all about garlic, olive oil and the best rosemary chicken in town. Everything is outstanding, from the bruschetta to the stuffed veal chop to the perfect tiramisu. Think of the long wait (no reservations) as part of the charm. D (M-Sa). 529 Bienville St., 504.529.8811. Map 3, F5; www.irenesnola.com

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ITALIAN BARREL Italian. The focus here is on fine, Northern Italian cuisine. Fresh ravioli flown in from Italy com-

504.666.8300

www.FrenchQuarterPhantoms.com OCTOBER 2019

JEWEL OF THE SOUTH Contemporary. This hidden gem takes its cue from a 19th-century restaurant of the same name, with retro cocktails (brandy crustas, Roffigacs) and an ever-changing, seasonal menu of late-night bites. D (nightly). 1026 St. Louis St., 504.265.8816. Map 3, F3; www.jewelnola.com

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(504) 522-9222 719 Royal St New Orleans LA 70116

K-PAUL’S LOUISIANA KITCHEN Louisiana. Chef-personality Paul Prudhomme was one of the first to introduce Cajun cuisine to a global audience. His restaurant is an ideal spot to sample some K-Paul classics, such as bronzed swordfish and blackened beef tenders. D (M-Sa). 416 Chartres St., 504.596.2530.Map 3, F4; www.kpauls.com KILLER POBOYS Contemporary. This tiny holein-the-wall has garnered big buzz with its “internationally inspired, chef-crafted” takes on the standard po’boy. Try the rum-braised pork belly version with lime-infused slaw. B, L, D (W-M). 219 Dauphine St., 504.462.2731. Map 3, F3; 811 Conti St., 504.252.6745.Map 3, F4; www.killerpoboys.com

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ESTATE & CONTEMPORARY FINE JEWELRY NEW ORLEANS & VINTAGE CHARMS 534 Royal St. • (504) 522-1305 www.lapetitfleur.com

KRYSTAL American. Since 1932 Krystal has been satisfying big appetites with its small, square burgers. 24h (daily). 116 Bourbon St., 504.523.4030. Map 3, E4; www. krystal.com

MANOLITO Cuban. A taste of Cuba in the heart of the French Quarter. Pressed Cuban sandwiches, tender ropa vieja and shrimp ceviche are top food picks. Pair with a martini, thrown Spanish-Cuban style. L (W-Su); D (nightly). 508 Dumaine St., 504.603.2740. Map 3, H4; www.manolitonola.com MEAUXBAR French. French bistro standards tweaked with a thoughtful, modern hand. Dishes include escargot with shiitakes in brandy cream and mussels nestled in a harrisa broth, crowned with crisp hand-cut fries. D (nightly); Br (Su). 942 N. Rampart St., 504.569.9979. Map 3, H3; www.meauxbar.com MR. B’S BISTRO Louisiana. Another outstanding Brennan family restaurant, famed for its deceptively casual power-lunch scene. Musttries include the barbecued shrimp and bread pudding in Irish whiskey sauce. L (M-Sa), D (nightly); jazz brunch (Su). 201 Royal St., 504.523.2078. Map 3, E4; www.mrbsbistro.com NAPOLEON HOUSE Louisiana. Napoleon never slept here, but this historic café and bar, with its peeling walls and worn charm, has its share of French ambiance. The café serves soups, seafood gumbo, salads and warm muffulettas. L, D (daily). 500 Chartres St., 504.524.9752. Map 3, F4; www.napoleonhouse.com NEW ORLEANS CREOLE COOKERY Creole. Creole standards (gumbo, shrimp Creole) are coupled with fresh fish, fried seafood, char-grilled oysters and a raw bar. L, D (daily). 510 Toulouse St., 504.524.9632.

THE GUIDE

JUSTINE French. Chef Justin Devillier’s Parisenne-inspired brasserie is both classic and contemporary in design, but the menu is fullon French: steak tartar, tuna Niçoise salad, moules frites. L (Tu-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 225 Chartres St., 504.218.8533. Map 3, E4; www.justinenola.com

LONGWAY TAVERN Eclectic. A proper gastropub with a comfy chic interior, solid familiar cocktails and smart, sexy food. The pork belly home fries, fried calamari and hefty steak sandwiches will make you linger. L (F-Su), D (nightly). 719 Toulouse St., 504.962.9696. Map 3, G4; www.longway tavern.com

Dining

Bungalow’s

plements such authentic fare as veal with porcini mushrooms and truffle oil, osso buco-topped polenta and top-notch tiramisu. L, D (daily). 430 Barracks St., 504.569.0198. Map 3, I5; www.theitalianbarrel.com

Map 3, G5 ; www.neworleans creolecookery.com NINE ROSES CAFÉ Vietnamese. The Westbank Vietnamese food haven now offers a smaller French Quarter location serving such signature dishes as pho, banh mi sandwiches, rice plates, noodle bowls and springrolls. L, D (MSa). 620 Conti St., 504.324.9450. Map 3, F4 NOLA American. Emeril Lagasse’s French Quarter bistro’s small plates-focused menu is perfect for table-sampling its 40-plus dishes. Must-trys include the hot frog legs, stuffed chicken wings and oyster-and-brie pot pie. L, D (daily). 534 St. Louis St., 504.522.6652. Map 3, F5; www.emerils.com

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PALACE CAFÉ Creole. Part of the Brennan restaurant empire, the Palace offers a sweeping view of Canal Street. Standouts include the savory crabmeat cheesecake and andouille-crusted Gulf fish. B, L (M-F), D (nightly); Sa-Su jazz brunch. 605 Canal St., 504.523.1661. Map 3, E4; www.palacecafe.com RED FISH GRILL Seafood. Grilled fish too plain? Not here. The hickory-grilled redfish topped with crab or crawfish is a modern classic, and the other specialties (barbecued oysters, double-chocolate bread pudding) are all exceptional. L, D (daily). 115 Bourbon St., 504.598.1200. Map 3, E4; www.redfish grill.com RESTAURANT R’EVOLUTION Louisiana. Chefs John Folse and Rick Tramonto are the tour de force behind this elegant-yet-relaxed fine dining venue. The rooms are gorgeously appointed, while the menu is made up of modern reinterpretations of classic Cajun and Creole cuisine. L (F), D (nightly); Br (Su). 777 Bienville St. (inside the Royal Sonesta Hotel), 504.553.2277. Map 3, E4; www.revolutionnola.com

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STANLEY Eclectic. Retro soda fountain ambiance meets a modern menu at this upscale diner. The adventuresome can try the eggs Benedict po’ boy, while Reuben sandwiches, burgers and ice cream sundaes fulfill more conventional cravings. B, L, D (daily). 547 St. Ann St., 504.587.0093. Map 3, H4; www.stanleyrestaurant.com SYLVAIN Contemporary. Elegant chandeliers dangle overhead at this sophisticated gastro pub just off Jackson Square, as diners sip on handcrafted cocktails and nibble refined comfort classics, such as Chick Syl-vain sandwiches and pasta Bolognese. D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 625 Chartres St., 504.265.8123. Map 3, G4; www.sylvainnola.com TABLEAU Creole. Housed in historic Le Petit Theatre, Dickie Brennan’s Jackson Square bistro offers two bars, balcony and courtyard dining and applause-worthy French-Creole dishes. L (M-Sa), D (nightly); Br (daily). 616 St. Peter St., 504.934.3463. Map 3, G4; www.tableaufrench quarter.com TUJAGUE’S Creole. Open since 1856, Tujague’s (“two-jacks”) ranks as one of the city’s oldest eateries. The restaurant serves a traditional Creole prix fixe menu (shrimp remoulade and beef brisket to start, followed by a choice of entrée and pecan pie), along with contemporary a la carte offerings. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 823 Decatur St., 504.525.8676. Map 3, H5; www.tujaguesrestaurant.com

Garden District/ Lower Garden District COMMANDER’S PALACE Creole. This beloved turquoise palace is a shrine for food worshippers. Chef Tory McPhail carries on the Brennan family tradition of adventurous food based on Creole principles, served in a courtly atmosphere. L (M-F), D (nightly); jazz brunch (Sa-Su). 1403 Washington Ave.,

Experience Gretna’s charm and rich history as you stroll through one of Louisiana’s largest national historic districts. From its landmarks to the good food, friendly faces and exciting seasonal activities, you will find Gretna a delight for all ages. 1035 Huey P. Long P.O. Box 404 Gretna, LA 70054

Call : 504-363-1580 or 888-4-GRETNA Fax : 504-875-2234

www.gretnala.com OCTOBER 2019

Dining

504.899.8221. Map 1, D4; www.commanderspalace.com COQUETTE Contemporary. What do you get when you mix traditional Louisiana cooking with spicy Italian and refined French? Coquette, where the menu changes daily but is always stellar with standouts like the must-have fried chicken. D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 2800 Magazine St., 504.265.0421. Map 1, D4; www.coquettenola.com GRIS-GRIS Louisiana. Chef Eric Cook (American Sector, Commander’s Palace) finally has a place of his own, where he whips up elevated New Orleans standards, such as oyster-and-caviar po’ boys and seafood-stuffed crab. L, D (daily); Br (Su). 1800 Magazine St., 504.272.0241. Map 1, D4; www.grisgrisnola.com

MOLLY’S RISE & SHINE Breakfast. The sandwich gurus behind Turkey and the Wolf also operate this equally funky breakfast spot. Collard greens and grits, sweet potato burritos, deviled egg tostadas—expect the unexpected. B (W-M). 2368 Magazine St., 504.302.1896. Map 1, D4; www.mollysriseandshine.com

WHEN YOU SEE LES CLEFS D’OR KEYS. PLAY. EXPLORE. FEAST. ACCOMPLISH. No one knows more or can do more for you than Les Clefs d’Or Concierges. Search beyond the internet, and discover for yourself why anything is possible with Les Clefs d’Or Concierges.

TURKEY AND THE WOLF Eclectic. Sandwiches are the menu mainstay at this casual café: fried baloney with American cheese and chips, chicken fried steak. Don’t miss the wedge salad with blue cheese and “everything bagel” crunchies. L (W-M). 739 Jackson Ave., 504.218.7428. Map 1, D4; www.turkeyandthe wolf.com

THE GUIDE

ANYTHING IS POSSIBLE

JACK ROSE Contemporary. This bold, contemporary space turns out playful versions of familiar foods. Think squid-ink pasta with shrimp in a cayenne-kicked barbecue sauce. Cool cocktails; gorgeous desserts. L (F), D (W-Su); Br (Su). 2031 St. Charles Ave., 504.323.1500. Map 1, D4; www.jackroserestaurant.com

BACCHANAL Eclectic. This combo wine retail shop/bar/live music venue is also a restaurant. Dig into “international bistro” fare, while local bands perform in the shady backyard. L, D (daily). 600 Poland Ave., 504.948.9111. Map 1, E3; www.bacchanal wine.com BYWATER AMERICAN BISTRO American. The menu at this casual neighborhood spot focuses on local, seasonal ingredients. Farro risotto with mushrooms and minted breadcrumbs, fried Gulf oysters with oyster gravy; try the rabbit curry. D (W-Su); Br (Sa-Su). 2900 Chartres St., 504.605.3827. Map 1, E3; www.bywater americanbistro.com

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THE COUNTRY CLUB Louisiana. Known for its swimming pool, this Bywater hangout also offers casual fine dining. Dive into big-flavored small plates (crabmeat beignets, clams and chorizo), salads or full-on entrees, such as chateaurbriand for two. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 634 Louisa St., 504.945.0742. Map 1, E3; www. thecountryclubneworleans.com ELYSIAN BAR Eclectic. Tucked inside the Peter and Paul Hotel, this sunny yellow dining room feels all warm and cozy, like a relative’s kitchen. The menu follows suit, with homey fare such as whipped ricotta with preserved mushrooms on flatbread or chicken confit with white beans and roasted apples. L, D (daily). 2317 Burgundy St., 504.356.6768. Map 1, E3; www.theelysianbar.com THE JOINT Barbecue. This funky Bywater fave is slim on frills but big on slow-cooked barbecue (pulled pork, beef brisket, juicy ribs) and generous sides. L, D (M-Sa). 701 Mazant St., 504.949.3232. Map 1, E3; www.alwayssmokin.com PALADAR 511 Contemporary. California cooking New Orleans-style

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means lots of frilly salads, fish left au naturel and pizzas, smartly topped with farm eggs, summer squash and the like. D (W-M); Br (Sa-Su). 511 Marigny St., 504.509.6782. Map 3, J5; www.paladar511.com

Sun–Thu 10 – 6, Fr i – S a t 10 – 9 • 6 1 7 B i e nv i l l e S t , N e w O r l e a n s

Marigny/Bywater

PIZZA DELICIOUS Italian. This pop-up pizzeria grew so popular that it now has its own brick-and-mortar space. New York-style pies with an ever-changing array of market-fresh toppings are offered whole or by the slice. L, D (TuSu). 617 Piety St., 504.676.8482. Map 1, E3; www.pizzadelicious.com ST. ROCH MARKET Eclectic. Dating to 1875, this long-shuttered marketplace recently received a massive makeover while retaining its historic character and 24 steel columns. The stunning space features 11 food vendors, along with a bar. L, D (daily). 2381 St. Claude Ave., 504.609.3813.Map 1, E3; www.strochmarket.com

Mid-City BLUE OAK BBQ Barbecue. Blue Oak draws raves for its crisp-skinned barbecued chicken, spare ribs, killer nachos and fried Brussels sprouts. If the barbecued pork egg rolls make a menu appearance, get them. L, D, (Tu-Su). 900 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.822.2583. Map 1, D3; www.blueoakbbq.com PARKWAY BAKERY & TAVERN Louisiana. The menu here is long but simple: po’boys and more po’boys. Your choices for stuffings: roast beef, oyster, shrimp, catfish and, of course, alligator sausage—and that’s just the top of the list. L, D (W-M). 538 Hagan Ave., 504.482.3047. Map 1, D2; www.parkwaypoorboys.com PIECE OF MEAT Deli. This petit butcher shop and restaurant is loaded with tempting options: cheeseand-boudin eggrolls, brisket sandwiches, tender ribs. L (Th-Tu), D (Th-Sa); Br (Sa-Su). 3301 Bienville St., 504.372.2289.

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Map 1, D3; www.pieceofmeat butcher.com RALPH’S ON THE PARK Louisiana. Veteran restaurateur Ralph Brennan serves up globally inspired local cuisine in this beautifully restored historic building overlooking scenic City Park. L (Tu-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 900 City Park Ave., 504.488.1000. Map 1, D2; www.ralphsonthepark.com TOUPS’ MEATERY Louisiana. Chef Isaac Toups is known for his masterful charcuterie. Start with the Meatery Board, before moving on to the lamb neck with fennel and black-eyed pea salad. L, D (TuSa); Br (Sa-Su). 845 Carrollton Ave., 504.252.4999.Map 1, D3; www.toupsmeatery.com

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WILLIE MAE’S SCOTCH HOUSE Southern. This beloved neighborhood eatery draws foodies from around the globe with its famous fried chicken and other Southern standards. L (M-Sa). 2401 St. Ann St., 504.822.9503. Map 1, D3 ; www.williemaesnola.com ZASU Seafood. Award-winning chef Sue Zemanick goes coastal at her intimate, Mid-City space: grilled baby octopus, citrus-poached shrimp, saltine-crusted grouper with braised greens and crawfish. Word of advice: Do not skip dessert. D (M-Sa). 127 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.267.3233. Map 1, D2; www.zasunola.com

ITION EXH IB A FR E E RING A RT I N F E AT U ORARY P M E T A RT ER CON CH QU N E R F THE

Uptown AVO Italian. Chef Nick Lama does his fourth-generation Sicilian ancestry proud with such standouts as charred octopus with pork butter and pineapple, cioppino, gnocchi with wild mushrooms and lasagna with short rib ragout. D (M-Sa); Br (Sa-Su) 5908 Magazine St., 504.509.6550. Map 1, D4; www.restaurantavo.com CARROLLTON MARKET Louisiana. Chef Jason Goodenough’s market-driven

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520 Royal Street www.hnoc.org • (504) 523-4662 #artofthecitynola

OCTOBER 2019

Dining

menu spins both modern and traditional with dishes such as New Orleans-style cassoulet. No one can get enough of oysters Goodenough—flash-fried oysters with smoky bacon, creamed leeks and béarnaise. D (Tu-Sa); Br (Sa-Su). 8132 Hampston St., 504.252.9928. Map 1, C3; www.carrollton market.com CAVAN Southern. This Victorian home’s “beautiful deterioration” is an ideal setting for modern Southern cuisine. Start with the crawfish-andgoat cheese king cake before tackling the double burger with Sazerac BBQ sauce. D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 3607 Magazine St., 504.509.7655. Map 1, D4; www.cavannola.com

DEL FUEGO MEXican. Chef David Wright’s ramped-up taqueria is based on recipes and techniques gathered during travels to Mexico. House-made tortillas wrap around duck enchiladas with Oaxacan mole, while tostadas are topped with smoked Gulf fish. L, D (M-Sa). 4518 Magazine St., 504.309.5797. Map 1, D4 ; www.delfuegotaqueria.com DTB Cajun. Short for “down the bayou,” DTB pays homage to chef Carl Schaubhut’s Cajun country roots with mod twists on Louisiana coastal cuisine. Think gumbo with crab fat potato salad and crispy duck confit with charred cabbage and sweet potatoes. D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 8201 Oak St., 504.518.6889. Map 1, C3; www.dtbnola.com LA BOULANGERIE Bakery. This French bakery doles out savory and sweet artisanal goods to regulars who are loyal verging on addicted.

THE GUIDE

COSTERA Spanish. The Spanish-inspired menu encourages plate-sharing with a wide range of tapas (papas bravas, blistered peppers, grilled octopus), along with larger entrees such as seafood paella. L, D (W-M). 4938 Prytania St., 504.302.2332. Map 1, D4 ; www.costera restaurant.com

Almond or ham-and-cheese croissants make light snacks, while loaves baked with blue cheese or olives are all good enough to devour on their own. $ B, L (M-Sa). 4600 Magazine St., 504.269.3777. Map 1, D4; www.laboulangerienola.com MAX WELL Vegetarian. The plantbased, organic menu at this health-conscious café features “nutrient-dense ingredients to promote maximum wellness.” Translation: fresh fruit and veg juices, silky soups and spectacular salads and bowls. L, D (daily). 610l Magazine St., 504.301.0510. Map 1, C4; www.maxwellneworleans.com

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PASCAL’S MANALE Italian. A New Orleans landmark since 1913, Pascal’s is famous for inventing barbecued shrimp (a must-get) and eternally popular for its traditional Italian food. L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 1838 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.4877. Map 1, D4; www.pascalsmanale.com

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PATOIS Louisiana. Aaron Burgau has earned all of the praise heaped on him in recent years as a chef “to watch.” Patois combines Burgau’s inventive French cooking with a low-key neighborhood bar scene. L (F), D (W-Sa); Br (Su). 6078 Laurel St., 504.895.9441. Map 1, D4; www.patoisnola.com PICNIC PROVISIONS & WHISKEY Southern. Crawfish-boil hot fried chicken anchors the menu at this playful Commander’s Palace offshoot. Begin with the smoked fish dip and finish with cookie-dough s’mores. L, D (daily). 741 State St., 504.266.2810. Map 1, D4; www.nolapicnic.com SABA Mediterranean. Chef Alon Shaya provides a taste of modern Israel with a menu full of hummus, kebabs and labneh, along with intriguing entrees, such as octopus with shawarma spices. L (W-F), D (W-Su); Br (Sa-Su). 5757 Magazine St.,

504.324.7770. Map 3, D4; www.eatwithsaba.com SAFFRON NOLA Indian. Chic Indian fare with contemporary flair. Top picks include the pakoda choti and roti sathi. L (F-Sa), D (Tu-Sa). 4128 Magazine St., 504.323.2626. Map 1, D4; www.saffronnola.com

SHOPPING Art Galleries & Antiques A GALLERY FOR FINE PHOTOGRAPHY The city’s most extensive collection of fine art photographs for sale. Artists represented include Ansel Adams, Henri Cartier-Bresson, Herman Leonard and Yousuf Karsh, among others. 241 Chartres St., 504.568.1313. Map 3, F4; www.agallery.com

ALEX BEARD STUDIO This gallery features the works of resident artist Alex Beard, whose intricate drawings and paintings have been acquired by Mick Jagger, among other collectors. 3926 Magazine St., 504.309.0394. Map 1, D4; www.alexbeardstudio.com ANGELA KING GALLERY One of the French Quarter’s leading contemporary art galleries. Sculptors and painters represented include Peter Max, Woodrow Nash and Patterson & Barnes. 241 Royal St., 504.524.8211. Map 3, F4; www.angelakinggallery.com ANTIEAU GALLERY Folk artist Chris RobertsAntieau’s textile appliqué works are found in the American Visionary Art Museum and her New Orleans galleries. 927 Royal St., 504.304.0849. Map 3, H4; 4532 Magazine St., 504.510.4148. Map 1, D4; www.antieaugallery.com

OCTOBER 2019

ARTHUR ROGER GALLERY One of New Orleansâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; leading modern art galleries, featuring an extensive collection of paintings, sculpture, photographs and works on paper. 432-434 Julia St., 504.522.1999. Map 3, C5; www.arthurroger gallery.com ARTISTSâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; MARKET & BEAD SHOP Looking for undiscovered talent? Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll likely find it at this gallery, which features worksâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;oil paintings, photography, pottery, blown glass, masksâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;by dozens of regional artists. 85 French Market Place, 504.561.0046. Map 3, I5; www.artistsmarketnola.com

BEVOLO GAS & ELECTRIC LIGHTS The vast majority of copper and brass gas lanterns adorning French Quarter shops, restaurants and homes are made at Bevolo. Choose from a selection of available styles, or have fixtures custom-built. 521 Conti St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F5; 318 Royal St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F4; www.bevolo.com CRAIG TRACY GALLERY The bulk of artist Craig Tracyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s work is devoted to the human form, which the award-winning bodypainter enhances with intricate imagery he then captures on film. 827 Royal St., 504.592.9886. Map 3, H4; www.craigtracy.com FISCHER-GAMBINO An eclectic shop specializing in fine lighting fixtures, as well as statuary, furniture and home interesting home accents. 637 Royal St., 504.524.9067. Map 3, G4; www.lighting neworleans.com

FRANK RELLE PHOTOGRAPHY Award-winning photographer Relleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s moody â&#x20AC;&#x153;nightscapesâ&#x20AC;? are counted among the permanent collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of History and the private holdings of Brad Pitt, Wynton Marsalis and others. 910 Royal St., 504.388.7601. Map 3, H4; www.frankrelle.com FRENCH ANTIQUE SHOP Founded in Paris, this shop relocated to New Orleans in 1939. Today it carries French antique furniture from the 18th and 19th centuries and Oriental accents, including vases with bronze mountings. 225 Royal St., 504.524.9861.Map 3, E4; www.gofrenchantiques.com GALERIE VINSANTOS Offbeat illustrations, macabre assemblage dolls, quirky sculpture: If itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s edgy and eclectic, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll spot it here. 811 Royal St., 504.603.6038. Map 3, H4; www.galarievinsantos.com

JONATHAN FERRARA GALLERY This gallery is home to the cutting-edge work of proprietor Jonathan Ferrara and others. Sculpture, glass, metal and installation art are featured. 400A Julia St., 504.522.5471. Map 3, C6; www.jonathanferrara gallery.com LEMIEUX GALLERIES Contemporary paintings, sculpture, pottery, jewelry and glassworks are among the media exhibited here. 332 Julia St., 504.522.5988. Map 3, C6; www.lemieuxgalleries.com M.S. RAU ANTIQUES This third-generation family business is one of the nationâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s oldest dealing in 19th-century antiques. Rau is known for its American, French and English furniture, fine silver, glass, porcelain, clocks and quality jewelry. 630 Royal St., 504.523.5660. Map 3, G4; www.rauantiques.com

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MAKE TODAY AN AUDUBON DAY.

Shopping

ANTIQUES DE PROVENCE A bit of southern France on Royal Street, featuring 17thand 18th-century antiques, including armoires, chandeliers, limestone fountains and a huge selection of olive jars. 623 Royal St., 504.529.4342. Map 3, G4; www.antiques deprovencellc.com

MARTIN LAWRENCE GALLERIES This branch of the nationwide Martin Lawrence galleries features contemporary paintings and sculpture by such famed artists as Picasso, Chagall, Dali, Miró, Warhol, Haring and Erté. 433 Royal St., 504.299.9055. Map 3, F4; www.martinlawrence.com MICHALOPOULOS The off-kilter architectural renderings of James Michalopoulos are instantly recognizable. You’ll find them here, along with his figurative paintings, still lifes and landscapes. 617 Bienville St., 504.558.0505. Map 3, E4; www.michalopoulos.com

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MODERNIST CUISINE GALLERY Photographer Nathan Myhrvold focuses on the science of cooking and cutting-edge culinary techniques. 305 Royal St., 504.571.5157.Map 3, F4; www.modernist cuisinegallery.com MOSS ANTIQUES Fine art objects fill this gallery, which offers jewelry, porcelain, humidors and cigar accessories. Merchandise here comes primarily from England and France. 411 Royal St., 504.522.3981. Map 3, F4; www.mossantiques.com MYTH GALLERY Part animal/part human, Betsy Youngquist’s stunning beaded sculptures will draw you into this shared space, which also showcases the whimsical sculpture of R. Scott Long. 831 Royal St., 504.513.8312.Map 3, H4; www.myth-gallery.com OCTAVIA ART GALLERY This contemporary space spotlights local and international artists. 454 Julia St., 504.309.4249. Map 3, C6; www.octaviaartgallery.com RED TRUCK GALLERY “Beautiful, unexpected art” by contemporary up-and-comers will make you want to park here for a while. 940 Royal St., 504.231.6760. Map 3, H4; www.redtruckgallery.com

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RODRIGUE STUDIO This French Quarter landmark is devoted to the works of the late great “Blue Dog” master, George Rodrigue. 730 Royal St., 504.581.4244. Map 3, G4; www.georgerodrigue.com SARAH ASHLEY LONGSHORE GALLERY Step into this Uptown studio, with its pop art paintings and statement-making furniture, and you’ll understand why Elle calls Longshore “New Orleans’ Most Badass Artist.” 4537 Magazine St., 504.333.6951. Map 1, D4; www.ashleylongshore.com STUDIO BE Brandan Odums’ graffiti-style murals are the perfect fit for this massive warehouse space. The evocative collection explores African-American life through powerful portraits of Martin Luther King Jr., Malcolm X and other pivotal players coupled with images of everyday individuals. Open W-Sa, 2-8 pm. 2941 Royal St., 504.330.6231. Map 1, E3; www.ephemeral eternal.com

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TERRANCE OSBORNE GALLERY Over the past decade artist Osborne has garnered a large local and national following with his vibrant architectural works and reflections on Crescent City life. 3029 Magazine St., 504.232.7530. Map 1, D4; www.terranceosborne.com VINTAGE 329 A mecca for vintage jewelry buffs, this hip shop is filled with Chanel, Memento Mori and Christian Lacroix. Vintage sunglasses, fashion-inspired posters and retro barware are among the offerings. 329 Royal St., 504.525.2262. Map 3, F4 WINDSOR FINE ART This fine art gallery features original works from the old masters (Durer, Rembrandt) and masters of the belle époque, (Cheret, Lautrec, Mucha) to the modern masters (Picasso, Dali, Miro, Matisse, Chagall) and the biggest names in post-war contemporary art (Warhol, Francis, Frankenthaler, Motherwell). Internationally renowned con-

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Shopping

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AND NEW ORLEANS Explore the history of four sugarcane plantations, whose wealth was once built on the economic engineExplore of slavery. These historic attractions provide the history of four sugarcane plantations, a glimpse Louisiana’s past guided whose into wealth was once built onthrough the economic engine of slavery. These historic original attractionsartifacts, provide tours, interpretive exhibits, a glimpse into Louisiana’s past through guided award-winning cuisine and overnight stays. tours, interpretive exhibits, original artifacts, Exploreaward-winning the history of fourand sugarcane cuisine overnightplantations, stays. Explore the history of four sugarcane plantations,

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BECKHAM’S BOOKSHOP Thousands of rare, antique and secondhand books line the shelves at this sprawling emporium. An essential stop for collectors. 228 Decatur St., 504.522.9875. Map 3, E5; www.beckhamsbookshop.com FAULKNER HOUSE BOOKS William Faulkner lived at this address, and it was here he penned his novel “Soldiers’ Pay.” First editions of his works are sold, as well as contemporary fiction. 624 Pirate’s Alley (behind St. Louis Cathedral), 504.524.2940. Map 3, G4; www. faulkner housebooks.com GARDEN DISTRICT BOOK SHOP This well-stocked shop offers hundreds of current titles, in addition to a large selection of New Orleans-related books. Frequent author appearances. 2727 Prytania St., 504.895.2266. Map 1, D4; www.gardendistrict bookshop.com LOUISIANA MUSIC FACTORY There’s no better place in town to stock up on new or used CDs by local artists. Live performances on Saturdays. 421 Frenchmen St., 504.586.1094. Map 3, J5; www.louisianamusicfactory.com SKULLY’Z RECORDZ This small music shop is big on new and used CDs, DVDs and vinyl recordings. Imports, obscure albums and works by independent local artists are also offered. 907 Bourbon St., 504.592.4666. Map 3, H4

Clothing BILLY REID Award-winning designer Reed’s chic boutiques are found all over the country—and now in his home state as well. Women’s and men’s fashions are featured, along with shoes and accessories. 3927 Magazine St.,

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O N T H E G R E AT R I V E R R OA D LO C AT E D B E T W E E N BATO N R O U G E AND NEW ORLEANS

Books & Music

504.208.1200. Map 1, D4; www.billyreid.com DIRTY COAST You won’t find your standard Bourbon Street T-shirts here. Catering to locals and in-theknow visitors, Dirty Coast’s slick designs feature funky graphics with cool Crescent City-inspired slogans. 713 Royal St., 504.324.6730. Map 3, G4; 5631 Magazine St., 504.324.3745.Map 1, D4; www.dirtycoast.com GOORIN BROS. HATS The city’s newest hat shops date to 1895, when master milliner Cassel Goorin first began plying his wares from Pittsburgh street carts. Today Goorin’s hip headwear and stylish stores are found nationwide. 709 Royal St., 504.523.4287. Map 3, G4; 2127 Magazine St., 504.522.1890. Map 1, D3; www.goorin.com

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HEMLINE Fashion-forward clothing, shoes, accessories by such lines as BCBG and Laundry are offered here. 609 Chartres St.,

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504.592.0242. Map 3, G4; 3310 Magazine St., 504.702.8009. Map 1, D4; www.shophemline.com QUEORK Cork is the get at this sleek boutique, where the resilient material is fashioned into chic handbags, totes, belts, phone cases, pet collars and more. 838 Chartres St., 504.481.2585. Map 3, H4; 3005 Magazine St., 504.388.6803.Map 1, D4; www.queork.com TRASHY DIVA Original and vintage-inspired designs with a modern sensibility. The shop offers women’s clothing, shoes, lingerie and accessories. 537 Royal St.,504.522.4233. Map 3, G4; www.trashydiva.com UNITED APPAREL LIQUIDATORS A bargain hunter’s paradise overflowing with overstock items and runway collection castoffs at drastically reduced prices. 518 Chartres St.,

504.301.4437. Map 3, F4; www.shopual.com

Gifts & Collectibles BUNGALOWS This shop mixes jewelry (including designs by Pandora, Brighton and other popular lines) and women’s accessories (hats, handbags) with home accents and great gift items. 719 Royal St., 504.522.9222. Map 3, G4; www.shop bungalows.com

dolls crafted by true practitioners and psychic readings by real New Orleans witches. 1219 Decatur St., 504.613.0558. Map 3, I5; www.hexwitch.com LITTLE TOY SHOP You’ll find plenty to keep small hands and minds busy here, from entertaining games to historical action figures. 513 St. Ann St., 504.523.1770. Map 3, G5; 900 Decatur St., 504.522.6588. Map 3, H5; www.littletoyshopnola.com

DERBY POTTERY & TILE Mark Derby’s hand-pressed Victorian reproduction tile can be found in showrooms nationwide. But you’ll see it being made here, along with his decorative pottery. 2029 Magazine St., 504.586.9003. Map 1, D4; www.derbypottery.com

NOLA KIDS This children’s boutique offers select apparel for both girls and boys, from infant to youth, along with toys, books and great gift items. 526 Royal St., 504.533.9853. Map 3, G4; 333 Chartres St., 504.566.1340. Map 3, F4; www.shopnola kids.com

HEX: OLD WORLD WITCHERY This magical emporium offers everything from herbal enchantments and candles to bless your home to voodoo

ROUX ROYALE This shop caters to foodies with select serving ware and kitchen-related accessories, many featuring a Crescent City flavor. Cookbooks by local chefs

OCTOBER 2019

Health & Beauty/Spas AIDAN GILL FOR MEN A fab spot, filled with antique barbershop memorabilia, upscale accessories and topof-the-line grooming products for men. The shop specializes in hot-towel shaves. 2026 Magazine St., 504.587.9090. Map 1, D4; www.aidangillfor men.com BELLADONNA DAY SPA Attempting to cover the entire six-mile stretch of Magazine Street can run even the most ardent shopper ragged. Thankfully, Belladonna sits at the halfway point, providing rejuvenation before heading back out on the hunt. 2900 Magazine St., 504.891.4393. Map 1, D4; www.belladonna dayspa.com

MADAME AUCOIN PERFUME “The oldest perfumer in the South” lives on thanks to her great grand-nephew, who recently reopened shop in her former residence. Artisanal fragrance lines are featured. 608 Bienville St., 985.665.2123 Map 3, F4; www.madame aucoinperfume.com THE SPA AT THE RITZCARLTON This luxurious, award-winning spa features 22 treatment rooms, two couples suites, a separate esthetician wing, sauna and steam rooms. 921 Canal St., 504.670.2929. Map 3, E3; www.ritzcarlton.com WALDORF ASTORIA SPA This luxe spa offers 10 private treatment rooms and a full menu of body treatments and

TAO SPA Have a half hour to spare? Step into these centrally located relaxation stations, which specialize in reflexology treatments, and walk out a brand new you. 837 Canal St., 210.843.8276. Map 3, E3; 212 Chartres St. Map 3, E4; Riverwalk Marketplace, 500 Port of New Orleans Pl., Level A. Map 3, D7

Home & Garden COUTELIER Form and function combine at this Riverbend shop, where stunning Japanese knives line cypress display boards. Chef ’s knives from Kikuichi to Takeda are available, as are cookbooks and other kitchen accessories. 8239 Oak St., 504.475.5606. Map 1, C3; www.nolaknifeworks.com HAZELNUT Crescent City native and Broadway vet Bryan Batt has received well-deserved applause for his show-stopping décor shop. Unusual home accents, such as New Orleansthemed toile, are featured. 5525 Magazine St., 504.891.2424. Map 1, D4; www.hazelnutneworleans.com RICCA ARCHITECTURAL SALES This Mid-City warehouse is packed with retro Southern splendor rescued from demolished buildings. Hard-to-find antique hardware, ornate mantles and an endless selection of doors merely hint at the offerings. 511 N. Solomon St., 504.488.5524. Map 1, D2; www. riccasarchitecturalsales.com

Jewelry ART & EYES The eyes have it at this hip eyewear boutique, which specializes in hand-picked frames to fit

THE GUIDE

HOVÉ Hové is a European-style parfumeur that has been in business for 80-plus years. Among the perfumes, colognes and soaps are one-of-a-kind New Orleans-inspired scents. 434 Chartres St., 504.525.7827. Map 3, F5; www.hoveparfumeur.com

services, including indulgent therapies that incorporate French clay, roses and water lilies. Located on the first floor of the Roosevelt Hotel. 130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3; www.roosevelt neworleans.com

Shopping

and prepackaged food items are also offered. 600 Royal St., 504.565.5272. Map 3, G4; www.shoprouxroyale.com

just about any face or budget. Wearable art by designer Starr Hagenbring and jewelry is also featured. 3708 Magazine St., 504.891.4494. Map 1, D4; www. artandeyesneworleansla.com FLEUR D’ORLEANS French Quarter cast iron, St. Louis Cathedral’s cross and ornamental Uptown cornices are among the architectural elements incorporated in the jewelry at this shop. 818 Chartres St., 504.475.5254. Map 3, G4; 3701A Magazine St., 504.899.5585. Map 1, D4; www.fleurdorleans.com KREWE Eyewear-maker Stirling Barrett has garnered a national following with his locally designed line of glasses. Each of his iconic styles is named for a New Orleans street. 809 Royal St., 504.407.2925. Map 3, H4; 1818 Magazine St., 504.342.2462. Map 1, D4; www.krewe.com

AT T R A C T IO N S

LA PETIT FLEUR Specializing in estate and contemporary jewelry, La Petit Fleur is well known for its own line of pendants based on the fleur de lis. The shop also offers NOLA-themed charms. 534 Royal St., 504.522.1305. Map 3, G4; www.lapetit fleur.com PORTER LYONS Jewelry designer Ashley Lyons is a hit in Hollywood, but it’s her New Orleans roots that inspire her creations. 631 Toulouse St., 504.518.4945. Map 3, G5; www.porterlyons.com

Malls/ Major Retailers LAKESIDE SHOPPING CENTER A favorite shopping stop of New Orleanians for more than 30 years, Lakeside is conveniently located near the city and the airport. The mall houses more than 120 stores, including Apple, Coach, Macy’s, Michael Kors, Microsoft and Sephora. 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.835.8000. Map 1, C2; www.lakesideshopping.com

THE OUTLET COLLECTION AT RIVERWALK Located along the Mississippi River at the foot of Poydras Street, the nation’s first urban outlet center offers more than 70 shops, including Neiman Marcus Last Call Studio. 500 Port of New Orleans Place, 504.522.1555. Map 3, D7; www.riverwalkneworleans.com THE SHOPS AT CANAL PLACE Canal Place features some of the world’s finest retailers in an elegant setting. Stores include Tiffany & Co., Louis Vuitton, and Brooks Brothers, as well as local retailers. 333 Canal St., 504.522.9200. Map 3, E5; www. theshopsatcanalplace.com

Shoes GOOD FEET Foot pain? Step into this shop for professionally fit arch supports designed to fit everything from sneakers to dress shoes. 539 Bienville St., 504.875.2929. Map 3, F5; 3000 Severn Ave., 504.888.7080. Map 1, C2; www.orleansshoes.com JOHN FLUEVOG “Unique soles for unique souls.” This forward-thinking footwear shop is a “shoe-in” among French Quarter fashionistas and trendy travelers. 321 Chartres St., 504.523.7296. Map 3, F4; www.fluevog.com NOLA FOOT CANDY Sweet treats for your feet. Located along Jackson Square, this womens shoe shop stocks a wide variety of fun and fashionable styles. 510 St. Peter St., 504.252.9144. Map 3, G4; www.nolafootcandy.com SHOE BE DO Get a step ahead with cutting-edge women’s footwear from up-and-coming international designers. 324 Chartres St., 504.523.SHOE. Map 3, F4; www.shoebedousa.com

Special Services PACK RAT SHIPPING SERVICES This all-in-one spot offers international shipping (DHL, FedEx,

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USPS), along with 40 related services, from computer and copying needs to notary public and passport photos. 3436 Magazine St., 504.899.5415. Map 1, D4; www.packrat shipping.com

ATTRACTIONS Attractions & Landmarks ARMSTRONG PARK Named for the late jazz great Louis Armstrong, this 34-acre green space is home to Congo Square, where jazz is believed to have first taken root. N. Rampart and St. Ann streets. Map 3, H2 AUDUBON AQUARIUM OF THE AMERICAS This award-winning aquarium counts the largest and most diverse collection of sharks and jellyfish in the U.S. Admission includes a ticket for the Entergy Giant Screen Theater. Open Tu-Su at 10 am; call for closing hours. 1 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E6; www.auduboninstitute.org AUDUBON BUTTERFLY GARDEN & INSECTARIUM The nation’s largest museum devoted to insects. More than 70 interactive exhibits are featured. Open Ti-Su at 10 am; call for closing times. 423 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E5; www.auduboninstitute.org AUDUBON PARK Walk, jog, golf or picnic among the oaks and lagoons in this beautiful glade. On the St. Charles streetcar line (stop 36). St. Charles Ave. at Walnut St., 504.212.5237. Map 1, C4; www.auduboninstitute.org AUDUBON ZOO Home to more than 1,800 animals, the renowned Audubon Zoo is one of the finest in the U.S. Open Tu-Su at 10 am; call for closing hours. 6500 Magazine St., 504.581.4629 or 800.774.7394. Map 1, C4; www.auduboninstitute.org CEMETERIES New Orleans’ aboveground “cities of the dead” act as windows

on the past, offering insight into local history and customs. Many are located in high-crime areas. Tours are available; do not venture in alone, day or night. CITY PARK Abundant live oaks provide a lush canopy for this 1,300-acre outdoor oasis, larger even than New York’s Central Park. 1 Dreyfous Ave., 504.482.4888. Map 1, D2; www.neworleans citypark.com CRESCENT PARK Looking for unique views of the city? Stroll along this 1.4-mile riverfront promenade, which stretches from the French Quarter to the Bywater neighborhood. Map 3, J6; www.crescentparknola.org FRENCH MARKET America’s oldest public market dates to pre-colonial days. Along with homegrown specialties, the market also features a number of food stalls, retail shops and flea market merchants. 1100 N. Peters St., 504.522.2621. Map 3, H5; www.frenchmarket.org HARRAH’S CASINO The South’s largest casino features 2,100 slots, 104 table games, live entertainment and a lavish buffet. 8 Canal St., 504.533.6000. Map 3, E6; www.harrahsneworleans.com JACKSON SQUARE The heart of the Quarter was originally known as Place d’Armes, and was renamed to honor President Andrew Jackson, whose statue anchors the square. A quintessential photo op. Decatur Street at St. Ann Street. Map 3, G5 LAFITTE GREENWAY This 2.6-mile bike and pedestrian trail connects Armstrong Park to City Park. The ADAcompliant green corridor, dotted with recreation fields, offers quiet retreat in the heart of the city. Map 3, F2; www.lafittegreenway.org MARDI GRAS WORLD It’s Carnival time all year long inside the workshops of Kern Studios, the world’s largest float builder. Tours daily, 9:30 am-4 pm. 1380 Port of New Orleans

OCTOBER 2019

MERCEDES-BENZ SUPERDOME The recently revamped and rebranded Superdome, home of the New Orleans Saints, remains the largest covered arena in the world. 1500 Poydras St., 504.587.3663. Map 3, B2; www.mbsuperdome.com

Home of the Original

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THE MORTUARY HAUNTED HOUSE Named one of “America’s Scariest Attractions” by the Travel Channel, this actively haunted mansion is just a streetcar ride away from the French Quarter. 4800 Canal St., 504.483.2350. Map 1, D2; www.themortuary.net

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NEW ORLEANS MUSICAL LEGENDS PARK This pocket park celebrates Bourbon Street’s musical legacy with statues of Al Hirt, Pete Fountain and others. An on-site café and bar offers cool libations, lite bites and live music. 311 Bourbon St., 504.888.7608. Map 3, F4; www.neworleans musicallegends.com NEW ORLEANS SCHOOL OF COOKING & STORE Creole/Cajun cooking demonstrations are offered daily at 10 am and 2 pm. Private group and hands-on sessions are also available; reservations required. The store is open M-Sa, 9 am-6 pm; Su, 9 am-5 pm. 524 St. Louis St., 504.208.5320. Map 3, F5; www.nosoc.com OLD URSULINE CONVENT Dating to 1727, this is the oldest edifice in the Mississippi River Valley and the sole surviving building from the French Colonial period in the U.S.

ST. BERNARD PARISH Founded by Canary Islanders in 1778, today St. Bernard Parish is a thriving, family-oriented community and popular fishing and birding destination. Attractions include Chalmette Battlefield (where the Battle of New Orleans took place), the Los Isleños Museum & Village and St. Bernard State Park. www.visitstbernard.com SMOOTHIE KING CENTER Cousin to the Superdome, the Center is the home of the New Orleans Pelicans basketball team, as well as the site of major concerts. 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 504.587.3663. Map 3, A2 ; www.smoothiekingcenter.com ST. AUGUSTINE CHURCH The second-oldest AfricanAmerican Catholic church in the nation. A jazz Mass is held Sundays at 10 am. 1210 Gov. Nicholls St., 504.525.5934 Map 3, I2; www.staugustine catholicchurch-neworleans.org ST. LOUIS CATHEDRAL Established as a parish in 1720, this magnificent circa-1849 cathedral is the heart and symbol of New Orleans. Mass said daily. 615 Pere Antoine Alley (Jackson Square), 504.525.9585. Map 3, G4; www.stlouis cathedral.org WOLDENBERG PARK This grassy riverfront promenade, which runs from the Audubon Aquarium of the Americas to Jackson Square, affords great people-watching and even greater views of the often-overlooked Mississippi. Map 3, F6

Museums BACKSTREET CULTURAL MUSEUM Located in a former funeral parlor, this offbeat museum seeks “to keep jazz funerals alive” with memorabilia from famous sendoffs and second-line parades. Elaborate Mardi Gras Indian costumes are also on display. Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. 1116 Henriette Delille St.,

THE GUIDE

Spacious Parking Lot Available 895-4877 • 1838 Napoleon Ave.

NATIONAL SHRINE OF BLESSED FRANCIS SEELOS This popular pilgrimage site—a sanctuary of hospitality, hope and healing—is located in historic St. Mary’s Assumption Church, Louisiana’s oldest German Catholic church. Free tours are offered M-F, 9 am-3 pm; Sa, 10 am-3:30 pm. 919 Josephine St., 504.525.2495. Map 1, D3; www.seelos.org

Tours given M-F, 10 am-4 pm; Sa, 9 am-3 pm. 1100 Chartres St., 504.529.3040. Map 3, I4; www.stlouiscathedral.org

Attractions

Pl., 504.361.7821. Map 3, A8; www.mardigrasworld.com

504.522.4806. Map 3, I2; www.backstreetmuseum.org CONTEMPORARY ARTS CENTER The city’s premier modern art exhibit space features rotating exhibits and also plays host to performances. 900 Camp St., 504.528.3800. Map 3, B6; www.cacno.org GALLIER HOUSE The 1857 home of renowned New Orleans architect James Gallier, Jr. is decorated and furnished in the style of the 1860s. Tours offered on the hour M-Tu and Th-F, 10 am-3 pm; Sa, noon-3 pm. 1132 Royal St., 504.274.0748. Map 3, I4; www.hgghh.org

EN T ER TA IN M EN T

HERMANN-GRIMA HOUSE Built in 1831, this house/ museum provides a glimpse into New Orleans’ Creole past. Tours offered on the hour M-Tu and Th-F, 10 am-3 pm; Sa, noon-3 pm. 820 St. Louis St., 504.274.0750. Map 3, F4; www.hgghh.org HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION This trove of historic treasures offers free changing exhibitions and permanent displays tracing the evolution of the French Quarter and the city’s multilayered past. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, 10:30 am4:30 pm. 520 and 533 Royal St., 504.523.4662. Map 3, G4; www.hnoc.org LOUISIANA STATE MUSEUMS The Louisiana State Museum operates five French Quarter venues: The Cabildo, where the signing of the Louisiana Purchase took place; the Presbyère, the circa-1789 Madame John’s Legacy (presently closed for repairs); the 1850 House; and the Old U.S. Mint, home to the New Orleans Jazz Museum. 504.568.6968. www. louisianastatemuseum.org NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM This living history tribute to the veterans of World War II is a world-class military archive with numerous exhibits. The Victory Theater shows the 4D

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film “Beyond All Boundaries.” 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1944. Map 3, B6; ww.nationalww2 museum.org NEW ORLEANS HISTORIC VOODOO MUSEUM Explore this misunderstood religion through the museum’s artifacts and exhibits. Readings and cemetery tours are also offered. Open daily, 10 am-6 pm. 724 Dumaine St., 504.680.0128. Map 3, H4; www.voodoomuseum.com NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART One of the South’s finest museums, featuring an extensive collection from the 15th through 20th centuries and a free outdoor sculpture garden. Open Tu-Th, 10 am-6 pm; F, 10 am-9 pm; Sa-Su, 11 am-5 pm. 1 Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park), 504.658.4100. Map 1, D2; www.noma.org NEW ORLEANS PHARMACY MUSEUM This former apothecary housed the nation’s first licensed pharmacist. See 19th-century “miracle” drugs, phlebotomists’ tools and an 1855 soda fountain. Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. 514 Chartres St., 504.565.8027. Map 3, G4; www.pharmacy museum.org OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART This Smithsonian Institution affiliate offers a fresh, new look at four centuries of the American South. Open F-W, 10 am-5 pm. 925 Camp St., 504.539.9650. Map 3, B6; www.ogdenmuseum.org SOUTHERN FOOD AND BEVERAGE MUSEUM Devoted to “the understanding and celebration of food, drink and culture of the South,” SoFAB features exhibits, along with cooking classes. Open W-M, 11 am-5:30 pm. 1504 Oretha C. Haley Blvd., 504.569.0405. Map 1, D3; www.southernfood.org

Plantations DESTREHAN PLANTATION A 30-minute drive from New Orleans, Destrehan was built

in 1787 by a sugar planter, and is the oldest plantation home in the lower Mississippi Valley. Tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. Closed all major holidays. 13034 River Rd., Destrehan, La., 877.453.2095. www.destrehan plantation.org HOUMAS HOUSE PLANTATION AND GARDENS Houmas House is famous for its imposing Greek Revival architecture and lush grounds. Tours are offered daily, 9 am-7 pm. Overnight accommodations available. Old South Tours provides transportation via luxury buses that depart daily from the French Quarter; call 877.303.1776 for details. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.9380. www.houmas house.com LAURA PLANTATION TripAdvisor’s top-rated River Road plantation tour authentically details 200 years of lives of Creole owners, women, slaves and children. The property features 12 historic structures, along with a slavery museum and French garden. Guided tours are offered daily, 10 am-4 pm. 2247 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 888.799.7690. www.laura plantation.com NOTTOWAY PLANTATION The famed “White Castle of Louisiana” is one of the largest antebellum homes in the South. Guided tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. Overnight accommodations available; reservations recommended. 31025 Hwy. 1 South, White Castle, La., 225.545.2730. www.nottoway.com OAK ALLEY PLANTATION This picture-perfect Greek Revival mansion, with its 28 evenly spaced 300-year-old live oaks, is a spectacular sight. “The Grande Dame of Great River Road” offers overnight accommodations in century-old cottages. Guided tours daily, 9 am-5 pm. 3645 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 888.279.9802. www.oakalleyplantation.org

SAN FRANCISCO PLANTATION This grand home, built in 1856, boasts hand-painted ceilings and fine decorative finishes. Its fanciful exterior is a mixture of six different architectural styles. Open daily, 9:40 am-4:40 pm. Closed major holidays. 2646 Hwy. 44, Garyville, La., 888.322.1756. www.sanfrancisco plantation.org ST. JOSEPH PLANTATION Birthplace of 19th-century architect Henry Hobson Richardson, this circa-1830 Creole manor house has been family owned since 1877. The important role of sugar production along River Road is explored here. Guided tours are offered Th-Tu on the hour, from 10 am to 3 pm. 535 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 225.265.4078. www.stjosephplantation.com WHITNEY PLANTATION Recently opened to the public for the first time in its 265-year history, this plantation explores slavery through moving first-person accounts. Guided tours are offered W-M on the hour, 10 am-3 pm. 5099 Hwy. 18, Wallace, La., 225.265.3300. www.whitneyplantation.com

ENTERTAINMENT Cruises & Tours AIRBOAT ADVENTURES Explore Louisiana swamplands via guided, high-speed airboat excursions geared to groups of all sizes. Hotel pickups available for an additional fee. 504.689.2005 or 888. GO.SWAMP. www.airboat adventures.com CELEBRATION TOURS This company provides intimate group tours of the French Quarter, Garden District and area cemeteries, along with Hurricane Katrina recovery excursions and private outings. Tours average 2.5 to three hours; rates vary. 504.587.7115. www.celebrationtoursllc.com CITY SEGWAY TOURS Why walk when you can glide? Guided two- and three-hour Segway tours of the French

OCTOBER 2019

CITY SIGHTSEEING This double-decker bus tour allows you to hop off—then back on again—at top attractions throughout the city. 700 Decatur St., 504.207.6200 ; 800.362.1811. Map 3, G5; www. citysightseeingneworleans.com

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CREOLE QUEEN PADDLEWHEELER Daily 2.5-hour Chalmette Battlefield cruises (10 am and 2 pm) and two-hour dinner jazz cruises (7 pm). Departs from Spanish Plaza (Poydras Street at the Mississippi River). 1 Poydras St., 504.529.4567. Map 3, D7; www.creolequeen.com DRINK & LEARN Culinary historian Elizabeth Pearce leads these fun and informative tippling tours through the French Quarter. 504.578.8280. www.drinkandlearn.com FRENCH QUARTER PHANTOMS TOURS These guided walking tours cover everything from ghost and vampire lore to cemeteries and music. All tours depart from The Voodoo Lounge (718 N. Rampart Street); reservations required. 718 N. Rampart St., 504.666.8300. Map 3, H4; www.frenchquarter phantoms.com FRIENDS OF THE CABILDO Informative, two-hour walking tours of the French Quarter are offered daily at 10:30 am and 1:30 pm. 523 St. Ann St., 504.523.3939. Map 3, G5; www.friendsofthecabildo.org

HAUNTED HISTORY TOURS Ghost, vampire, voodoo, occult: This popular tour group offers a variety of excursions through the French Quarter and Garden District. Meet guides 15 minutes prior to tours. For tickets and further information: 504.861.2727. www.haunted historytours.com JEAN LAFITTE SWAMP TOURS This privately owned company with trained guides provides an up-close look at local flora and fauna. Daily swamp and airboat tours are offered. Transportation from area hotels available. 6601 Leo Kerner Lafitte Pkwy., Marrero, 504.529.4567. www.jeanlafitte swamptour.com NEW ORLEANS SPIRITS AND SPELLS TOUR These guided spirited journeys through the French Quarter explore the ghosts, gris-gris and witchery associated with the world’s most magical city. Departs Friday to Sunday at 7 pm from Hex: Old World Witchery. 1219 Decatur St., 504.667.5570. Map 3, I5; www.spiritsandspellstour.com RIVERBOAT CITY OF NEW ORLEANS The city’s newest riverboat has all of the flair and flavor of the city, with great dining, jazz, bars, history and culture. Daily jazz brunch and dinner cruises are offered. Toulouse St. at the Mississippi River, 504.569.1401. Map 3, E7; www.riverboatcity ofneworleans.com SAVE OUR CEMETERIES St. Louis No. 1: departs daily at 10 am, 11:30 am and 1 pm from Backatown Coffee Parlour (301 Basin St.). Lafayette No. 1:

THE GUIDE

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CONFEDERACY OF CRUISERS These guided bicycle tours take visitors out of the French Quarter and into some of the city’s most vibrant and unexplored neighborhoods. Cocktail and culinary excursions are also offered. 634 Eylsian Fields Ave., 504.400.5468. Map 3, J5; www.confederacyof cruisers.com

GRAY LINE NEW ORLEANS Gray Line offers a variety of tours—Plantations, Ghost, Garden District, Cemeteries, Swamp & Airboat, Cocktail, French Quarter, Steamboat and River Cruises—and all possible combinations. All depart from the Toulouse Street Wharf. Toulouse St. at the Mississippi River, 504.569.1401. Map 3, F5; www.graylineneworleans.com

Entertainment

Quarter and Tremé are offered daily. 214 Decatur St., 877.734.8687. Map 3, E5; www.citysegwaytours.com

departs daily at 10:30 am and 1 pm from Washington Avenue gate (1400 block of Washington Ave.). 504.525.3377. www.save ourcemeteries.org STEAMBOAT NATCHEZ The last authentic steamboat on the Mississippi River. Daily harbor jazz cruises at 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Dinner jazz cruise, nightly at 7 pm. Sunday jazz brunch cruises, 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Cruises depart from Toulouse Street and the river in the French Quarter; call to verify availability. Toulouse St. at the Mississippi River, 504.569.1401. Map 3, E7; www.steamboatnatchez.com

NIGHTLIFE Cocktails

N IG H T L IF E

ARNAUD’S FRENCH 75 Fine libations and classic cocktails in a clubby atmosphere, adjacent to Arnaud’s restaurant. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4; www.arnauds.com BAYOU BEER GARDEN One of the first bona fide beer gardens in the city, Bayou offers a huge patio with plenty of seating. The beer list is extensive with more than 100 choices on tap and in the bottle or can. 326 N. Jefferson Davis Pkwy., 504.302.9357. Map 1, D3; www.bayoubeergarden.com EFFERVESENCE This bubbly spot features 90plus bottles of sparkling wine, along with reds, whites and a variety of small plates. Open W-Su. 1036 N. Rampart St., 504.509.7644. Map 3, H3; www.nolabubbles.com HOT TIN Named after a Tennessee Williams play (the author once stayed here), this sophisticated space on the roof of the Pontchartrain Hotel offers creative cocktails and amazing views. 2031 St. Charles Ave., 504.323.1453. Map 1, D3; www.hottinbar.com

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LAFITTE’S BLACKSMITH SHOP This historic cottage dates to the late 1700s. The legends surrounding Lafitte’s are vast; it’s easy to sit in the dark, watching the carriages pass, and imagine yourself back in a den of pirates and privateers. 941 Bourbon St., 504.593.9761. Map 3, H4; www. lafittesblacksmithshop.com NOLA BREWING Weekly brewery tours, a massive tap room and in-house barbecue make this a must-stop for beer fans. 3001 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.896.9996. Map 1, D4; www.nolabrewing.com PAT O’BRIEN’S Birthplace of the Hurricane cocktail, this complex features four bars, a full menu and the famous fountain. A Crescent City must-do. 718 St. Peter St., 504.525.4823. Map 3, G4; www.patobriens.com THE PENTHOUSE CLUB This upscale gentlemen’s club is one of the largest and toniest along the Bourbon Street strip. State-of-the-art lighting and sound systems are featured, along with private suites. 727 Iberville St., 504.524.4354. Map 3, E4; www.penthouse clubneworleans.com PORT ORLEANS BREWING Along with close to a dozen craft brews on tap and an onsite eatery, this popular brewery offers guided tours (Sa-Su at 1 and 3 pm). 4124 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.266.2332. Map 1, D4 ; www.portorleansbrewing co.com SAZERAC BAR Thirties elegance and classic cocktails in the beautiful Roosevelt Hotel. The perfect place to sample a Sazerac— the official cocktail of New Orleans. 130 Roosevelt Way, 504.309.6530. Map 3, E3; www. therooseveltneworleans.com WALK-ON’S Within walking distance of the Superdome, this popular game-day gathering ground is part restaurant, part sports bar and all fun. 1009 Poydras St., 504.648.1200. Map 3, C4; www. walk-ons.com

Live Entertainment

504.553.2299. Map , F4; www. sonesta.com/jazzplayhouse

APPLE BARREL This raffish joint is tiny but has a warm and intimate feel, especially when there’s a blues guitarist or a jazz combo performing in a corner of the crowded room. 609 Frenchmen St., 504.949.9399. Map 3, J5

MAPLE LEAF A tin roof, a sweaty dance floor, a quintessential N’awlins experience: Fueled by funk from some Crescent City greats, the crowd goes till dawn. 8316 Oak St., 504.866.9359. Map 1, C3; www.mapleleafbar.com

BLUE NILE This lively Frenchmen Street venue is simultaneously funky and stylish. Local acts perform regularly, along with national and international musicians. 532 Frenchmen St., 504.766.6193. Map 3, J5; www.bluenilelive.com

PRESERVATION HALL Home to traditional jazz since 1961, this no-frills nightspot still packs ’em in despite not serving liquor. 726 St. Peter St., 504.522.2841.Map 3, G4; www.preservationhall.com

D.B.A. This chic hangout on the Frenchmen strip features 20 premium draught beers, fine tequilas and single-malts and live music nightly. Lively weehours scene. 618 Frenchmen St., 504.942.3731. Map 3, J5; www.dbaneworleans.com THE FILLMORE NEW ORLEANS Harrah’s Casino ups the live-music ante with this 22,000 sq.-ft. offshoot of the legendary San Francisco venue, which feaures top-tier national touring acts. 6 Canal St., 504.881.1555. Map 3, E6; www.fillmorenola.com GASA GASA Live music, local art exhibitions, film screenings and recording sessions are all on tap at this quirky Uptown venue. 4920 Freret St., 504.338.3567. Map 1, D3; www.gasagasa.com HOUSE OF BLUES The Crescent City branch of the national chain consistently tops local best-of lists, and mixes big-name tours with performances by New Orleans favorites. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583. Map 3, F5; www.hob.com

SNUG HARBOR An elegant, intimate mainstay of Frenchmen Street’s music row. Two sets nightly. 626 Frenchmen St., 504.949.0696.Map 3, J4; www.snugjazz.com THE SPOTTED CAT This tiny club has a casual, laid-back vibe and a large, loyal following. Live music starts at 4 pm on weekdays (3 pm on weekends) . 623 Frenchmen St., no phone.Map 3, J5; www.spotted catmusicclub.com STAGE DOOR CANTEEN Swing back to a bygone era at this fun WWII Museum venue, which features live musical productions reminiscent of 1940s USO shows. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1943. Map 3, B6; ww.stagedoorcanteen.org THREE MUSES This hip space is a veritable nightlife trifecta: excellent handcrafted cocktails, gourmet small plates and live local music. 536 Frenchmen St., 504.252.4801. Map 3, J5; www.3musesnola.com TIPITINA’S The legendary Tip’s offers an eclectic, always-entertaining lineup, killer acoustics and multiple bars. 501 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.8477. Map 1, D4; www.tipitinas.com

THE JAZZ PLAYHOUSE This stylish spot inside the Royal Sonesta recreates the jazz clubs of Bourbon Street’s 1950s heyday. A rotating roster of leading local talent is featured nightly. 300 Bourbon St.,

OCTOBER 2019

SPECI A L A DV ERT ISING SECT ION

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KERLEREC

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BURGUNDY

1200

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BARRACKS

1000

URSULINES

900

ST. PHILIP

DUMAINE

ST. ANN

800

ORLEANS

700

1000

ST. PETER

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600

GOV. NICHOLLS

Mahalia Jackson Theater of the Performing Arts Armstrong Park

PA U G ER

900

.R AM

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BOURBON

RG BU

Lafitte's Blacksmith Shop

800

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DAUPHINE

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ESPLANADE

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MADISON

Mar

Local Artists Gifts Full service bead store

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American Aquatic Garden

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Mississippi River

Old U.S. Mint

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Pedestrian Mall

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ROYAL Vieux Carré Police Station

St. Louis Cathedral

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GA MA

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Lafitte's Blacksmith Shop

DORSIERE

N. P

P OU TCH

1000

BOURBON

CHARTRES

ial enter

HermannGrima House

M CA

U ITO

900

MADISON

IDO RD

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LAS

800

Pedestrian Mall

CARONDELET

700

Pedestrian Mall

600

DAUPHINE

500

BURGUNDY

IBERVILLE

100

400

ST. LOUIS

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300 CONTI

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BIENVILLE

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New Orleans Centre

N. RAMPART

200

Louisiana Superdome

URSULINES

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www.kayakitiyat.com 3494 Esplanade Ave., New Orleans, LA 70119, 512.964.9499

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KERLEREC

900

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500

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GOV. NICHOLLS

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19-HRCSE-1546 WHERE MAGAZINE.indd 1 3/7/2019 11:16:33 AM

NEW ORLEANS Maps

NEW ORLEANS NEW ORLEANS METRO & JEFFERSON PARISH A

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310

Thibodaux

182

Metairie

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Kenner

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Raceland

New Orleans

Vermilion Bay

Franklin

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Napoleonville

Laplace

Slidell

Lake Pontchartrain

Covington Abita Springs Mandeville

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THE GUIDE

Gretna

NEW ORLEANS CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT & FRENCH QUARTER A

LSU Health Sciences Center

Mercedes-Benz Superdome

Smoothie King Center

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Joy Theater

Rampart Streetcar Line

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Julia St. Cruise Terminal & Parking Garage

W HERETRAVELER Â® NEW ORLE A NS

New Orleans International Cruise Terminal 1/8 mi 200 m

OCTOBER 2019

Maps

AC AC New Orleans, 221 Carondelet St., 962-0700 D4 AH Ace Hotel New Orleans, 600 Carondelet St., 900-1180 C5 AJ Andrew Jackson Hotel, 919 Royal St., 561-5881 H4 AS Astor Crowne Plaza, 739 Canal St., 962-0500 E4 BC B on Canal, 1300 Canal St., 299-9900 E2 BI Baronne Inn & Suites, 346 Baronne St., 524-1140 D4 LK Best Western Landmark Hotel, 920 N. Rampart St., 524-3333 H3 BW Best Western St. Christopher, 114 Magazine St., 648-0444 E5 BH Bienville House, 320 Decatur St., 529-2345 F5 BL Blake Hotel New Orleans, 500 St. Charles Ave., 522-9000 C5 BO Bourbon Orleans, 717 Orleans Ave., 523-2222 G4 CA Cambria New Orleans, 632 Tchoupitoulas St., 524-7770 C6 CY Chateau Hotel, 1001 Chartres St., 524-9636 H4 K CO Chateau Orleans, 240 Burgundy St., 524-8412 F3 CL Claiborne Mansion, 2111 Dauphine St., 301-1027 J4 CN Courtyard by Marriott Convention Center, 300 Julia St., 598-9898 C7 DI Courtyard by Marriott Downtown Iberville, 910 Iberville St., 523-2400 E3 CM Courtyard by Marriott New Orleans, 124 St. Charles Ave., 581-9005 E4 1 DO Dauphine Orleans, 415 Dauphine St., 586-1800 F3 DT Doubletree Hotel New Orleans, 300 Canal St., 581-1300 E5 DR Drury Inn & Suites, 820 Poydras St., 529-7800 C4 EJ The Eliza Jane, 315 Magazine St., 882-1234 D5 EB Embassy Suites by Hilton Convention Center, 315 Julia St., 525-1993 C7 FP Four Points by Sheraton French Quarter, 541 Bourbon St., 524-7611 F4 FS French Quarter Suites Hotel, 1119 N. Rampart St., 524-7725 H3 HI Hampton Inn Downtown, 226 Carondelet St., 529-9990 D4 HA Hampton Inn & Suites, 1201 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 566-9990 C7 HH Harrah’s Hotel, 228 Poydras St., 533-6000 D6 HT Hilton Garden Inn CBD, 821 Gravier St., 324-6000 D4 2 HG Hilton Garden Inn Convention Center, 1001 S. Peters St., 525-0044 B7 HL Hilton New Orleans Riverside, 2 Poydras St., 561-0500 D7 SC Hilton New Orleans St. Charles, 333 St. Charles Ave., 524-8890 D4 FI Historic French Market Inn, 501 Decatur St., 561-5621 F5 HC Holiday Inn-Chateau LeMoyne, 301 Dauphine St., 581-1303 F3 HD Holiday Inn-Downtown Superdome, 330 Loyola Ave., 581-1600 D3 HE Holiday Inn Express-St. Charles, 936 St. Charles Ave., 962-0900 B5 HW Homewood Suites by Hilton New Orleans, 901 Poydras St., 581-5599 C4 HS Homewood Suites French Quarter, 317 N. Rampart St., 930-4494 F3 HM Hotel de la Monnaie, 405 Esplanade Ave., 947-0009 J5 3 LM Hotel Le Marais, 717 Conti St., 525-2300 F4 MA Hotel Mazarin, 730 Bienville St., 581-7300 F4 PV Hotel Provincial, 1024 Chartres St., 581-4995 H5 SM Hotel St. Marie, 827 Toulouse St., 561-8951 G4 SP Hotel St. Pierre, 911 Burgundy St., 524-4401 H3 HF Hyatt French Quarter Hotel, 800 Iberville St., 586-0800 E4 HP Hyatt Place Convention Center, 881 Convention Center Blvd., 524-1881 C7 HY Hyatt Regency New Orleans, 601 Loyola Ave., 561-1234 C3 IC InterContinental New Orleans, 444 St. Charles Ave., 525-5566 D4 IN International House Hotel, 221 Camp St., 553-9550 D5 4 JW JW Marriott, 614 Canal St., 525-6500 E4 JU Jung Hotel & Residences, 1500 Canal St., 226-5864 E2 LH Lafayette Hotel, 600 St. Charles Ave., 524-4441 C5 LQ La Quinta Inn & Suites Downtown, 301 Camp St., 598-9977 D5 LE Le Meridien, 333 Poydras St., 525-9444 D6 LP Le Pavillon Hotel, 833 Poydras St., 581-3111 C4 LR Le Richelieu, 1234 Chartres St., 529-2492 I5 LW Loews New Orleans, 300 Poydras St., 595-3300 D6 MD Maison Dupuy, 1001 Toulouse St., 586-8000 G3 MR Marriott New Orleans, 555 Canal St., 581-1000 E4 5 MC Marriott at the Convention Center, 859 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 613-2888 C7 MM Melrose Mansion, 937 Esplanade Ave., 944-2255 I3 ML Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., 523-3341 E4 NC New Orleans Courtyard Hotel, 1101 N. Rampart St., 522-7333 H3 90 Nine-O-Five Royal Hotel, 905 Royal St., 523-0219 H4 NO NOPSI Hotel, 317 Baronne St., 844-439-1463 D4 St OV Olivier House, 828 Toulouse St., 525-8456 E4 ia n e Av OR vOmni e Riverfront Hotel, 701 Convention Center Blvd., 524-8200 C7 Sp ch lin A Omni Royal Orleans, 621 St. Louis St., 529-5333 F4 Ro FrankOO t S PL Pelham Hotel, 444 Common St., 522-4444 E5 PD Place d’Armes, 625 St. Ann St., 524-4531 H4 6 PZ Plaza Suite Hotel & Resort, 620 S. Peters St., 524-9500 D6 PC Prince Conti, 830 Conti St., 529-4172 F4 QC Q&C Hotel, 344 Camp St., 587-9700 D5 RA Renaissance Arts Hotel, 700 Tchoupitoulas St., 613-2330 C6 PM Renaissance Père Marquette, 817 Common St., 525-1111 D4 RE Residence Inn by Marriott Downtown, 345 St. Joseph St., 522-1300 B6 RZ Ritz-Carlton Maison Orleans, 921 Canal St., 524-1331 E4 RO Roosevelt New Orleans-Waldorf Astoria, 130 Roosevelt Way, 648-1200 E3 RC Royal Crescent, 535 Gravier St., 527-0006 D5 RF Royal Frenchman, 400 Esplanade Ave., 619-9660 J4 7 Street Direction RS Royal Sonesta, 300 Bourbon St., 586-0300 F4 French Quarter RH Royal St. Charles Hotel, 135 St. Charles Ave., 587-3700 D4 SJ St. James Hotel, 330 Magazine St., 304-4000 D5 ST Sheraton, 500 Canal St., 525-2500 E5 SO Soniat House, 1133 Chartres St., 522-0570 I4 SH Spring Hill Suites by Marriott, 301 St. Joseph St., 522-3100 C7 Jazzy Passes SB Staybridge Suites, 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 571-1818 D6 1 day - $3 WQ ‘W’ French Quarter, 316 Chartres St., 581-1200 F4 3 day - $9 8 WO Westin Canal Place, 100 Iberville St., 566-7006 E5 31 day - 55 WH The Whitney Hotel, 610 Poydras St., 581-4222 D5 Ride RTA buses and streetcars as WC Windsor Court, 300 Gravier St., 523-6000 D6 much as you’d like. WG Wyndham Garden Baronne Plaza, 201 Baronne St., 522-0083 C4 K WQ Wyndham New Orleans French Quarter, 124 Royal St., 529-7211 E4

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Hotel

Riverfront - $1.25 St. Charles - $1.25 Magazine - $1.25 Canal St - $1.25 Loyola - $1.25 Rampart - $1.25

THE GUIDE

C St



WHERE NEXT THROUGH YOUR LENS Snap a great moment and tag it on Instagram with #wheretraveler for a chance to appear in an upcoming issue.

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT:

You'll find WhereTraveler® in cities across the U.S. and around the world, including the four shown here.

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MIAMI, Florida PHOENIX, Arizona

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O‘AHU, Hawai‘i NEW YORK, New York OCTOBER 2019

PARTING SHOT

Eerie Ex-Votos Within St. Roch Cemetery is an altar laden with cast-off crutches, prosthetics and plaster body parts—offerings to the Saint of Good Health.

In what other city are graveyard visits high on the must-do list for visting tourists?



©SHAWN FINK

– FROM “FEAR DAT,” BY MICHAEL MURPHY

W HERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLE A NS

OCTOBER 2019

New Orleans Craft Cocktail Walking Tour

Spend an Evening with Gray Line and the Spirit of Your Choice Call for reservations and other exciting tours 504-569-1401 or 800-233-2628 | www.GLNO.com

steamboat

Last authentic steamboat on the Mississippi River Three cruises a day from the French Quarter Dinner Jazz Cruise, Sunday Brunch & more Calliope Concerts & Engine Room Visits Inside and outside seating Live Jazz on all cruises 504-569-1401 â&#x20AC;˘ SteamboatNatchez.com