WhereTraveler Turin — October 2019 by Where Turin

TURIN CITY GUIDE Â®

OCTOBER 2019

W W W.WHEREITALIA.COM/ TURIN

FEELING TURIN

Shop, eat and enjoy the city

and its surroundings

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WELCOME TO ITALY

M A G A Z I N E

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ON THE TRAIL OF LEONARDO

In addition to a selection of rare and beautiful works, Turin’s Royal Library (below) hosts severable priceless manuscripts by Leonardo da Vinci, including his ‘Codex on the Flight of Birds’ (on the right), featuring his studies on flight, and 13 autograph sheets, including his famous ‘Self-Portrait’ www.museireali.beniculturali.it

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Via Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano. T: 02 349951 - Fax 02 33107015 info@whereitalia.com www.whereitalia.com/turin PUBLISHER AND EDITORINCHIEF

Andrea Jarach (andrea.jarach@whereitalia.com) MANAGING DIRECTOR

Daniele Misrachi (daniele.misrachi@whereitalia.com) MANAGING EDITOR

Alessandra Finzi (redazione@whereitalia.com) CONTRIBUTORS

Carey Bernitz, Simona P.K. Daviddi, Floriana di Maio, Elisabetta Giudici, Joy Lacanlale, Fabio Lancini, Giulia Minero, Elena Peverata, Chiara Zaccarelli ICONOGRAPHY

Archivio Proedi Media, Milano Panoramica, Shutterstock CARTOGRAPHY

City Map © Proedi Comunicazione 2019 Fast Trains Network Map Dmitry Goloub © Proedi Comunicazione 2019, © ROBERTO BIGANO - LEONARDO 3 BIBLIOTECA REALE DI TORINO

Dear Visitor, welcome to Italy! 2019 is the year in which Italy will be overflowing with celebrations marking the 500th anniversary of the death of Leonardo da Vinci, the man who more than any other, represents Italy throughout the world. Andrea Jarach Several cities including Milan, Florence and Publisher ® Rome will host a series of special events. Where The full program of Italian exhibitions and events honouring Leonardo throughout 2019 can be found on the pages of Where®. We invite you to discover the country that gave life to the person considered the world over as one of history’s greatest thinkers. While visiting Italy you’ll understand why only Italy could have given birth to this man whose creative mind shaped the intellectual, social, cultural, and political facets of European life from the fifteenth century onwards. Leonardo made an indelible contribution to philosophy, nature, medicine and art. All that now remains is for us to look for the traces left by the enigmatic Leonardo. You’ll find them in whatever part of Italy you’re visiting. If you happen to find them, please share your comments, with your photo, on our social media. By the end of the year, we’d like to collect a gallery of the friends of Italy. Happy hunting!

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Cristina Garbini (cristina.garbini@whereitalia.com) SUPPLEMENTO DI WHERE® MILAN REG. TRIB. MILANO No. 453, 19 JULY 2010 EDITORE: PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL  ISCRIZIONE AL ROC N. 2455 DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE BG

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MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP EXECUTIVE

Biblioteca Reale di Torino 2 W H E R E T U R I N I O C TO B E R 2019

CHAIRMAN William S. Morris III PRESIDENT & CEO William S. Morris MANAGING DIRECTOR EUROPE Chris

IV Manning

Turin

October 2019 San Carlo dal 1973

the guide 26 SHOPPING

SHOPPING

Chiodi Latini New Food offers a creative vegetablebased menu. A return to authentic ingredients, with a new approach to healthy food, and a focus on taste.

VIA CHIES A DELLA SALUT E

V I A PA O L O DELLA CELLA

VIA CHIES A DELLA SALUT E

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Chiesa Ortodossa rumena di Santa Croce

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Seven restaurants offering a triumph of flavours, aromas and untold creativity.

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V I A G I A M B AT T I S TA IO

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SAF FI VIA AUR ELIO

VIA CAPRIE

35 MICHELIN-STARRED

VIA RE VELLO O

VIA RE VELL

VIA VERZ UOL

VIA PERO

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Several go-to shopping destinations offering year-round discounts outside of Turin.

CENISIA

Parrocchia Gesù Adolescente

Ospedale Maria Vittoria

LARGO FRANCECO CIGNA

PIAZZA FRANCESCO CRISPI

VANO

PI NE

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SC O

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Information and tips to experience the best that Turin has to offer. A

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BA LM

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Parrocchia San Pellegrino Laziosi

DI NI

VIA VITTO

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24 FASHION OUTLETS

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VI A

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VIA FRANCESCO CIRIO

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44 ESSENTIALS

ROSAI

VIA CER VINO

VIA

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Parrocchia S. Alfonso Maria Dè Liguori

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avant-garde wineries, world-class cuisine and marvelous landscapes.

VIA LE VANN A

PIAZZA GENERALE ANTONIO BALDISSERA

VIA

VI A

DIO

RATO

VIA CER VINO

CLAU

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VI A

VA LP

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Langhe, Roero and Monferrato: N GI O

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PIAZZA GHIRLANDAIO

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Stazione Torino Dora GTT

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A compulsory stop for fans visiting Turin, and a destination that will captivate those not familiar with football: the Allianz Juventus Stadium is all this and more.

VI A

RIPA RIA

VIA

DOR A

Some of the best examples of 17th and 18th century European architecture.

SAR

VIA MICHEL E COPPIO

40 SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS

VIA TESS O

CORSO FRANCIA

PE M AS

VIA BRE GLIO

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Chiesa del Santo Volto

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PIAZZA LUIGI M AT T I R O L O

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Parrocchia San Benedetto Abate

VIA

V I A F. AZZI

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V I A B R E N TA

VIA

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Enjoy a pick of the best high-quality items.

Racconigi

VIA

Parrocchia S. Rosa Da Lima

CIA CORSO FRAN

NTE VIA MO

VIA R OSO

USS VIA B

Chiesa Natività di Maria Vergine

HIA VIA BARDONECC

VIA

POZZO

VIA CIRENAICA

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L E DE NAL

V I A M AT T I E

A HIA VIA BARDONECC

According to legend, Turin is part of a triangle of white and black magic.

Giardino Bambini di Beslan

VIA LERA

LIG

VIA FREIDOUR

VIA

Chiesa Parr. S. Anna

Rivoli

Monte Grappa

CIA CORSO FRAN

V I A S A N T ’A N T O N I N O

N I CO

V I A G I ACO M O M E D I C I

PIAZZA RIVOLI

BIA VIA RU

VIA CREA VIA CHAMBERY

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VIA

BERY

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PIAZZA GIUSEPPE PEROT TI

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Pozzo Strada

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V I A N I CO L A FA B R I Z I

V I A R O S O L I N O P I LO

Parco della Tesoriera

VIA BORGONE

VIA CIRENAICA

VIA ADAMELLO

VIA

Giardino Giuseppe Delfino

HIA VIA BARDONECC

V I A VA N DA L I N O

NARI VIA V.ASI

SON D R O TA S

LO S I SMO

VIA

PIAZZA GIAMPIETRO CHIRONI

17 GIFT GUIDE

V I A O R TA

LARGO NICOLA FA B R I Z I

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Chiesa S. Giovanna D'Arco

DIC VIA PIE

VIA A NGE

VIA DOMODOSSOLA

VIA ARO NA

VIA DOMODOSSOLA

V I A R O M AG N A N O

FA B R I Z I

VIA RUBIANA

V I A N I CO LA

VIA BEAULARD

V I A VA N DA L I N O

BIANCHI

Chiesa Madonna Divina Provvidenza

V I A G I A C I N T O PA C H I O T T I

Chiesa Cristiana Evangelica Pentecostale

V I A N I CO M EDE

VIA BEAULARD

Parrocchia San Leonardo Murialdo

VIA MICHELE LE SSONA

VIA BORGONE

CLAUD

Centro Piero della Francesca

OD O

From traditional places CAMPIDOGLIO to gourmet restaurants, Where® takes you on a tour to discover the most authentic Piedmontese cuisine.

VIA GUIDO REY

Massaua

Giardino ex Venchi Unica

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This month’s round-up of art exhibitions, music and local attractions.

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A new oasis has opened in the centre of Turin where you can shop for the creations of emerging fashion, furnishing and design brands.

Museo di Mineralogia Giorgio Spezia San

[ SIGHTSEEING]

Top in town 4

MOLE ANTONELLIANA A landmark building of Turin since 1889, it was purchased by the municipality who decided to make it a monument to Italian unification. Standing at a height of 167.5m, at the time of its construction it was the highest brick building in Europe. Built in an eclectic style, the Mole has a squat square base topped by a large dome with a spire. You can ascend to the panoramic observation platform either by elevator or on foot by climbing its 573 steps. Since 2000, it has hosted the National Museum of Cinema. 1 MUSEO EGIZIO Founded in 1824, Turin’s Egyptian Museum is the oldest Egyptian museum in the world and the second in terms of the value and quality of its treasures outside of Cairo. In 2006, during Turin’s Winter Olympics, the museum was re-modelled by Oscar-winning set designer Dante Ferretti. It houses more than 37,000 4 W H E R E T U R I N I O C TO B E R 2019

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artifacts, from the Paleolithic to the Coptic era. The archaeologist and Egyptologist JeanFrançois Champollion once said: ‘the road to Memphis and Thebes passes through Turin’. 2

headquarters of the first Subalpine Senate. Its name refers to ‘Madame Royale’ Christine of France, who took up residence here in 1600. The view of the city from the Panoramic Tower is spectacular. 4

MUSEI REALI The residence of the Savoys until 1865, it is now owned by the Italian government. The museum tour comprises a 3km route spread over 30,000 sq.m. and 7 hectares of Royal Gardens. In 1563, Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy moved the capital of the duchy from Chambéry to Turin, marking the beginning of a major urban transformation and the enrichment of the dynastic collections, which now include artifacts from the prehistoric era to the present time. 3

PARCO DEL VALENTINO Located on the banks of the Po River, and spread over 550,000 sq.m., this is the city’s most popular park. Its interior houses numerous treasures including the Castello del Valentino, a UNESCO world heritage site and a part of the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont, the Medieval Village and Castle, and the Botanical Gardens (1729). 5

PALAZZO MADAMA Situated in the centre of piazza Castello, it has always been a reference point in the city, from Roman times to 1848, when it became the

VILLA DELLA REGINA The summer country residence of the House of Savoy, it was built at the beginning of the 17th century as a court vineyard. It became known as Villa della Regina (literally the Queen’s Villa) when

MORE AT PAGE 40 MAP PAGES 46-47 factory (now FCA), still symbolizes the wealth of the city. Reconverted by Renzo Piano in the 1980s, it hosts events and the famous rooftop test track. The old Carpano plants, lying adjacent to the Lingotto complex, are now occupied by ‘Eataly’s’ vast food market. 10

MUSEO NAZIONALE DELL’AUTOMOBILE The Car Museum (MAUTO) was opened in 1960 and is one of the oldest car museums in the world. The semi-circular building overlooking the River Po acts as a prelude to the three floors of the collection featuring a spectacular layout designed by François Confinio, who also designed the exhibition space of the Museum of Cinema. 11 9

ALLIANZ JUVENTUS STADIUM Designed to host up to 41,507 spectators, this is the sixth largest stadium in Italy. It is owned by the Juventus Football Club whose home matches have been played here since 2011. An architectural symbol, it is one of the most avantgarde facilities in the world. The J-Museum, the official football museum of the ‘bianconero’ team is hosted inside the stadium. 12

King Vittorio Amedeo II gifted it to his future bride in 1714. Don’t miss a visit to this magnificent residence, distinguished by the remains of its original 18th century decorations and furnishings, and its Italianate gardens. Villa della Regina is a part of the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont, a UNESCO world heritage site. 6 TEATRO REGIO The Regio is one of the most important Italian theatres on the European scene, offering an action-packed program of opera and ballet. It was designed by Filippo Juvarra and inaugurated in 1740. Destroyed by a fire in 1936, and rebuilt in 1973 by Turinese architect Carlo Mollino, the only part of the original building that still remains is its façade, now a UNESCO world heritage site. Its unusual gate, named ‘Odissea Musicale’ (Musical Odyssey) is by Umberto Mastroianni. 7

BASILICA DI SUPERGA Situated on the hills surrounding Turin, it offers a breathtaking view. It was built as a thanksgiving to the Virgin Mary for Turin’s deliverance from the French siege (1706) and designed by Filippo Juvarra. One of the most picturesque ways of accessing it is by the Rack Tramway, which rattles the 3km up the hillside. 13

VIA PO PROMENADE A stroll beneath the typical Torinese porticoes in via Po, packed with shops and cafés, is an absolute must. From here, you can access Piazza Vittorio Veneto, the largest square in the city. The square ends at the Vittorio Emanuele I bridge, which connects it to the square of the church of the Gran Madre di Dio (1830), renowned for its imposing pantheon-like shape. 8 PIAZZA SAN CARLO Also known as ‘the drawing room’ of the city, it was commissioned by Marie Christine of France in true Parisian style with seemingly endless porticoes housing fashion boutiques, and an equestrian statue - the ‘Caval d’Brons’ – of Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy at its centre. 9 LINGOTTO This complex of buildings built in 1916, based on a project by Matté Trucco to house the FIAT

REGGIA DI VENARIA REALE Located inside the Park of La Mandria, this is a Baroque-style complex built in the mid-17th century as a glorified hunting lodge for Carlo Emanuele II. Particularly worthy of note are the Grand Gallery, the Chapel of St. Hubert, the Galleria di Diana, the 18th century Scuderie Juvarrine and the Citroniera, now used to host events. It is a part of the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont. 14 PALAZZINA DI CACCIA DI STUPINIGI Built in Baroque style in 1729, and only 10km from Piazza Castello, with its French garden, Stupinigi was the royal family’s favourite place for celebrations and events. At the beginning of the 20th century, Queen Margherita of Savoy took up permanent residence here. In 1919, Stupinigi became the headquarters of the Furniture Museum. It is a part of the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont, a UNESCO world heritage site. 15 w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 5

WHERE NOW | LANDMARK

A drawing room city Turin boasts 18 kilometres of porticoes, − 12.5km of which are interconnected to form one of the largest and most convenient pedestrian areas in Europe. The porticoes have given Turin the nickname of a ‘drawing room city’ because, whatever the weather, you can stroll, stop for a chat, drink a cup of coffee, choose an item of jewelry or try on a dress, as if you were in a drawing room, while sheltered by its colonnades. In addition, Turin’s porticoes are renowned for their striking beauty – from the grey stone of via Po to the marble of via Roma – and they are one of the world’s greatest architectural, aesthetic and socio-economic wonders. Although traditional window displays, edged with black and gold, in the shadow of the colonnade give many of the locales an austere, old-world appearance, when you cross their thresholds, you’ll find several contemporary treasures. For a relaxing break, head to one of the area’s many historic cafés, like Florio, Caffè Abrate and Caffè Baratti & Milano, an art nouveau jewel designed by architect Casanova. In piazza San Carlo, you’ll find Confetteria Stratta, Caffè San Carlo and, in piazza Carignano, several other historical establishments including Gelateria Pepino. Turin’s arcades boast among the highest density of shops in the world: there’s one every 75 square metres. The city’s twelve, unbroken kilometers of arcades host approximately one thousand shops, for a total of 2,250 window displays. The list includes the stand-alone boutiques of some of the world’s most prestigious brands, multi-brand clothing stores, small vintage gems, perfumeries, bookstores and more.

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HINOMISAKI IN IZUMO PROVINCE (IZUMO HINOMISAKI), FROM THE SERIES SOUVENIRS OF TRAVEL III (TABI MIYAGE DAI SANSHÛ) MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS, BOSTON. CHINESE AND JAPANESE SPECIAL FUND PHOTOGRAPH © MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS, BOSTON

WHERE NOW | HOT DATES

8 W H E R E T U R I N I M AY 2019

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HOT DATES OCTOBER

Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating Italian traditions, art and music or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates. BY ELENA PEVERATA

EXHIBITION THE TWILIGHT OF CLASSICAL JAPAN

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◀ An exhibition featuring the works of Katsushika Hokusai (1760-1849) and Utagawa Hiroshige (1797OCTOBER FEBRUARY 2019 2020 1858), two renowned 18th century masters of the ‘Fluctuating World; showcased alongside the modern prints of Kawase Hasui (1883-1957) who developed the themes and techniques of polychrome xylographs. A journey into the most evocative places of Japan, both real and imaginary that tells the story of the artistic world of a country which evolved radically between the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century.

Hokusai, Hiroshige, Hasui. Viaggio nel Giappone che cambia Pinacoteca Giovanni e Marella Agnelli, Lingotto. Via Nizza, 230/103 www.pinacoteca-agnelli.it

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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES WINE CULTURE

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WINE CULTURE IS A SERIOUS BUSINESS

◄ Nine days of tastings involve the Mercato Centrale and the historic centre of Turin. ‘La Vendemmia a Torino’ (Grape Harvesting in Turin’) is an event/festival that presents several initiatives, beginning with ‘Portici Divini’, a tasting extravaganza under the arcades of the centre (Saturday 12 October) that is dedicated to Turin’s finest wine producers, and the cultural and artistic heritage associated with the tradition of wine-making. It features tours and themed events at several of the city’s most prestigious locations.

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La Vendemmia a Torino. Grapes in town City-wide event www.vendemmiatorino.it

MAN RAY AND WOMEN

▼ Two hundred photographs, all dedicated to a specific OCTOBER JANUARY subject, women, the source of 2019 2020 inspiration of his entire artistic career, were created by the illustrious American photographer from the 1920s to his death. This must-visit exhibition in Turin features several of the images that wrote the history of photography in the 20th century and became a part of the collective imagination.

Man Ray. Electricité, 1931 Courtesy Collezione Fondazione MAST - © Man Ray Trust by SIAE 2019

Man Ray. The Fifty Faces of Juliet Courtesy Fondazione Marconi, Milano - © Man Ray Trust by SIAE 2019.

WO/MAN RAY. Le seduzioni della fotografia CAMERA - Centro Italiano per la Fotografia, via delle Rosine 18 www.camera.to

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AUTUMN COLOURS IN THE CITY

▲ For two days, the centre of the city between via Carlo Alberto OCTOBER and via Principe Amedeo will be transformed into an enormous, colourful garden. Flor Autunno is a large green exhibition showcasing the finest horticultural specimens from hundreds of exhibitors from all over Italy. A unique opportunity to stroll amongst the warm, vibrant autumnal colours of hydrangeas, Japanese maples and dogwood trees. Other highlights include garden accessories, books, seeds, natural products, decorations and spices.

Flor Autunno 2019 Via Carlo Alberto, via Pricipe Amedeo and Piazza Carlo Alberto www.orticolapiemonte.it

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FESTIVAL

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PASSWORD: AVANTPOP

Club to Club 2019 – a not-to-bemissed event – is celebrating its 19th edition with numerous concerts and OCTOBER NOVEMBER DJ sets featuring a lineup of Italian and international artists. For the second season, this titan of the international festival scene is staging an inter-cultural exploration of the meaning of ‘Light & Darkness’. This year’s venues include the post-industrial OGR - Officine Grandi Riparazioni, the Lingotto pavilions, the majestic Venaria Palace and the multi-cultural neighbourhood of Porta Palazzo. C2C Festival – Light in the darkness 6pm-11.59pm Lingotto Fiere. Via Nizza 294 www.clubtoclub.it

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EXHIBITION

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THE CITY BECOMES A STAGE FOR DANCE ▲ A huge stage for dance: TorinoDanza 2019 hosts numerous dance performances, screenings, artistic performances, experimentations, films, and more offerings related to dance in the Piedmont capital. The 2019 edition, whose theme is ‘Dance me to the end of love’, continues its exploration of the world of dance through the perspectives and perceptions of choreographers of the new millennium.

TorinoDanza 2019 Dance me to the end of love Varie locations www.torinodanzafestival.it

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A YEAR TOLD THROUGH 140 PHOTOGRAPHS

▲ World Press Photo Exhibition 2019, the most important visual journalism SEPTEMBER NOVEMBER contest in the world, is making a stopover in the Piedmont capital. One hundred and forty photographs taken in 2018 that received awards in various categories (General news, Spot news, Contemporary issues, Daily life, Portraits, Nature and Sport) will be featured in the most-widely visited visual journalism exhibition in the world and, amongst others, will include the winning photograph of World Press Photo of The Year 2019: Crying Girl on the Border by John Moore - Getty Image.

World Press Photo Exhibition 2019 Ex Borsa Valori. Via San Francesco da Paola, 28 www.worldpressphototorino.it w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 11

WHERE NOW | INSIDER TIPS Brasato (La Piola del Forno)

Ravioli del plin (Solferino)

Mixed fry and vitello tonnato (Le Vitel EtonnĂŠ)

Foodies and the city Bonet (Monferrato)

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Bagna cauda (Pautasso)

Le Vitel Etonné restaurant

From traditional places to gourmet restaurants, plus mustvisit pasticcerie and some insider tips, Where® Turin takes you on a tour to discover the most authentic Piedmontese cuisine.

We’ve created a practical guide of typical, must-try dishes, together with the addresses of the places where you can sample the true flavours of tradition, to help you make the most of your culinary experience, and even purchase authentic Piedmontese specialties to take home with you.

BY GIULIA MINERO

WHERE TO TASTE THE BEST OF TURIN’S TRADITIONAL SPECIALTIES

If all these gastronomic terms have captivated you and whet your appetite, you’re in luck, because Turin boasts numerous restaurants that pay tribute to regional culinary traditions. Based on the motto “tell me what food you love and I’ll tell you where to go”, we’ve rounded up a selection of the best foodie destinations in the city. Our culinary tour starts in the beating heart of Turin. For lovers of bagna cauda, a stopover at the Antica Bruschetteria Pautasso is a must. At this oldworld restaurant in the heart of the centre, bagna cauda is prepared using only local ingredients sourced from Slow Food Presidia and is available in three versions that also include a garlic-free re-interpretation, for people who are not fans of strong flavours. It is accompanied by raw and cooked seasonal vegetables and boiled eggs

ush rolling hills and woods, and pasture-rich plains, Piedmont is all this and more. Its varied terrain lends itself to cattle breeding, grape harvesting and diverse cultivations. It’s is not surprising that the region offers a remarkable variety of high-quality raw materials, including grapes, meat, cheese, mushrooms and truffles, which are the basis for its culinary and wine-making traditions, and amongst the richest in Italy. The months of October and November, when the days get shorter and the autumn air gets crisper, offer the perfect opportunity to titillate your palate and indulge in the wealth of the region’s gastronomic delights. Don’t worry if words like ‘Bonet’, ‘Gianduiotti’ or ‘Bagna Cauda’ are completely foreign to you.

(www.pautasso.it). Apropos respect for tradition, the Le Tre Galline restaurant – one of the oldest in Turin – is a reference point for those in search of authentic, traditional regional cuisine. Standouts on the menu, created by chefs Andrea Chiuni and Manuel Bortolotti, include vitello tonnato and typical Turinese agnolotti infused with three different types of roast meat served with a roast sauce, and accompanied by one of the venue’s exquisite local wines (www.3galline. it). On the subject of vitello tonnato, one of the city’s most popular, tastiest versions can be found at Le Vitel Etonné. In addition to this dish, after which the locale is named, the menu, which is limited and strictly linked to seasonal produce, features ravioli del plin – reinterpreted with a Bra sausage sauce and leeks, or with mountain butter and hazelnuts – as well as other homemade pasta specialties (www.leviteletonne.com). For those in search of a restaurant that combines a menu featuring local products with a retro ambience and a youthful, convivial atmosphere, Scannabue is your go-to destination. Here, the ravioli del plin are carefully prepared with a filling of three roast meats and served with mountain butter (www.scannabue.it). By crossing the w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 13

Monferrato restaurant

WHERE NOW | INSIDER TIPS

VITELLO TONNATO This classic ‘antipasto’ of Piedmont cuisine is made from poaching the ‘girello’ cut of ‘Fassona’ veal (a prized Piemontese breed of veal) in a stock with aromatic herbs and white wine, sliced thinly and served cold with a traditional sauce made from tuna fish, egg yolks, capers, extra virgin olive oil, white wine, lemon juice, salt and pepper.

BAGNA CAUDA

river, just steps from the Church of Gran Madre di Dio, Monferrato, a restaurant located in via Monferrato, serves authentic Piedmontese cuisine, with a focus on dishes made with Fassona and 'Bue Grasso di Carrù' beef, combined with a few delicacies re-engineered in their most contemporary version. Its delectable ravioli del plin, served with sage and butter, are well worth a mention (www.ristorantemonferrato.com). If the idea of Turin’s mixed fry has whetted your appetite, then the Due Mondi Ristorante is your go-to destination. This locale, featuring an open-plan kitchen just a short distance from Porta Nuova, welcomes guests in an elegant ambience, with meticulous attention to detail. This venue is the perfect place to sample Piedmont’s authentic mixed fry recipe prepared with local ingredients, possibly followed by a selection of traditional desserts (www.duemondiristorante.it). Alternatively, the Trattoria Sotto la Luna is the ideal place to taste bollito misto. Although this is generally served as a one-dish meal

accompanied by traditional sauces made from herbs and vegetables, including bagnet verd and bagnet rus, those with a more hearty appetite can opt for a starter of caponet (www.sottolaluna.it). Brasato is possibly the only Piedmontese specialty that lends itself to the highest number of interpretations. If you want to stay true to tradition, head to Solferino where brasato is prepared with 'Bue Grasso di Carrù' beef, cooked over a low flame in DOC Barolo wine. The menu, which varies according to the season, and the availability of seasonal ingredients, also includes a first-class bollito misto, only available if ordered at least five days in advance (www.ristorantesolferino.com). If you don’t want to miss out on this must-try experience, ask your concierge to book it for you! Always on the subject of brasato, a re-imagined, particularly noteworthy version is the one served at Consorzio, a warm and welcoming bistro which boasts a fabulous wine list, featuring unconventional labels (www.ristoranteconsorzio.it). Lastly, to end

Consorzio restaurant

This typical winter specialty consists of a sauce made from garlic, extra virgin olive oil and anchovies, to which butter, milk and chopped nuts can also be added. Bagna Cauda is served in a terracotta pot and used as a dip for raw or cooked seasonal vegetables. Tradition dictates that bagna cauda should either be eaten as a shared one-dish meal, served in a terracotta bowl where fellow diners dip raw and cooked vegetables, including cardoon, onions, Jerusalem artichokes, cabbage and cauliflower, cheese and thin slices of raw meat into the bowl, or it can be eaten as an ‘antipasto’, when the sauce is drizzled over roasted red bell peppers.

BRASATO Brasato is undoubtedly one of the most elaborate and delicious specialties of Piedmontese culinary tradition. It is a dish prepared with beef from the highly-prized Fassona breed of cattle, marinated for 12 hours in red wine – generally fullbodied, aromatic Piedmontese wines like Barolo or Barbaresco – and then slow-cooked in the same wine, with herbs and vegetables. When the meat is ready, it is sliced and topped with a reduction of the sauce and served with vegetables or polenta.

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PIEDMONTESE MIXED FRY This uniquely rich local specialty of Piedmont consists of a combination of fried liver, lungs, brain, sweetbreads, liver veins, a slice of veal, sausage, sweet semolina, amaretti biscuits and apples, accompanied by pan-fried carrots or mixed vegetables.

AGNOLOTTI DEL PLIN hese small filled ouches are made with a thin sheet of dou h, stu ed with a fillin of raised meat usuall a mixture of beef, veal or pork) and Swiss chard, dressed with the pan juices of the braised meat, or butter and sage. The name ‘plin’ derives from the regional dialect for ‘pinch’ because to form each agnolotto you pinch the two sheets of pasta together.

LE PIOLE If you want to immerse yourself fully in Piedmontese tradition, drop in at a piola! A piola is the Piedmontese equivalent of an osteria or a trattoria. It’s almost always run by family members and its menu, formerly boasting a simple, inexpensive fixed-price meal, features all the specialties typical of Piedmontese cuisine. Do as the locals do and order your favourite dishes accompanied by a quarter liter of house wine.

La Piola del Forno

PIEDMONTESE GRAN BOLLITO MISTO This elaborate dish of mixed boiled meats is made from seven cuts of Piedmontese veal, including the thigh muscle, shoulder and breast, and seven ‘improvers’, tongue, musetto (a pork sausage made in part from a pig’s snout) and a game hen, cooked for several hours in boiling water. It is accompanied by seven tasty sauces, and a side of vegetables. One of the favourite dishes of Camillo Benso, Count of Cavour, and Vittorio Emanuele, Piedmont’s ‘bollito misto’ even has its own brotherhood.

CAPONET Caponet, a specialty of the area between Turin and the neighbouring city of Ivrea, are tasty oven-baked meat roulades wrapped in cabbage lea es heir stu n is enerall made with minced pork and freshly ground sausage, cooked with onion, salt, pepper, eggs, grated cheese and breadcrumbs. Hearty and nourishing, Caponet are usually served in the colder months of the year.

BONET Bonet, pronounced bunet, is a soft, rich, deliciously old-fashioned dessert that can be eaten with a spoon. Bonet is made from sugar, eggs, milk, cocoa, rum and dry amaretti biscuits. An unusual feature of this recipe is that it’s baked in a Bain Marie in the oven. A Bain Marie, or hot water bath, is a slow, natural culinary technique that is used to cook delicate foods, over a low temperature, using the steam the Bain Marie creates. It preserves the softness of the dessert and facilitates the formation of a delicious crust on its surface.

on a sweet note, let’s talk about bonet. It’s essential to remember that most restaurants serving Piedmontese cuisine include bonet on their dessert menu. So make sure to taste the version served by Piola del Forno, a typical Piedmontese osteria boasting an informal atmosphere where you can taste tantalizing dishes of regional cuisine and a wonderfully soft, tasty bonet (www.lapioladelforno.it).

SHOPPING FOR FOOD When talking about Piedmont’s culinary tradition, it’s impossible not to mention chocolate. Way back in the 17th century, artisanal workshops throughout Piedmont imported cocoa and created delicacies made from the so-called ‘food of the gods.’ During the second half of the 18th century, they began producing gianduiotti and other tantalizing sweet treats made from hazelnuts, a raw material in which the region abounds. Gianduiotti, chocolate truffles, pralines and chocolates of different shapes and sizes, and cremini (pralines made with three different layers of chocolate), are all local specialties that can either be tasted at Turin’s chocolate shops or purchased as gifts. Must-visit addresses include the via Lagrange workshop of Guido Gobino, Turin’s king of chocolate, where you can also purchase these delectable treats and book a tasting session (www.guidogobino. it). Chocolate truffles, gianduiotti, spreadable hazelnut creams and creative re-interpretations of the most classic chocolates can be found at the Turin-based shop of Guido Castagna at number 27 via Maria Vittoria (www.guidocastagna.it), while the first standalone store of Caffarel

– a 100% Torinese brand – in via Carlo Alberto, offers a choice of dark and milk chocolate bars infused with hazelnuts, pralines and gift boxes (www.caffarel.com). If you want to immerse yourself in a setting worthy of Willy Wonka’s fabled ‘chocolate factory’, and purchase a selection of the best artisanal chocolate, make sure to visit the Confetteria Pasticceria Pfatisch (www.pfatisch.com). If you have a weakness for sweet treats, a visit to the best pastry shops in the city is a must. They’re all listed in our Dining section on page 37. If your idea of a typically Torinese gift is a bottle of wine, Turin is home to numerous wine bars that won’t disappoint! The Casa del Barolo, boasts a selection of the best Barolo, Barbaresco and Ruché labels (www.casadelbarolo.it), while those looking to immerse themselves amongst an array of classic Piedmontese vintages, including Barolo Chinato, select wine Grappas, Moscato d’Asti, Barolo, Dogliani, Nebbiolo and other wines from the best wine estates in the region, can be tempted by the wide range of offerings at Eataly Torino Lingotto (www.eataly.net).

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WHERE NOW | EXPERIENCE

All the magic of Turin

According to legend, and together with Prague and Lyon, Turin is part of a triangle of white magic, and of black magic with London and San Francisco. As a result, it finds itself in the midst of an ongoing struggle between positive and negative forces and, according to experts, is crisscrossed by powerful force fields. (C.Z.)

urin is a city of mystery, magic and legend. Its ‘magical’ significance is attributed to its geographical position, along the 45th parallel, where the Po and Dora rivers meet. More importantly, it creates the vertices of two triangles, a triangle of white magic and a triangle of black magic. It would appear that numerous points of the Piedmont capital, highlighted by esoteric and Masonic symbols, are crisscrossed by mysterious force fields. This is why the city offers tourists numerous tours to discover these places. These include Torino Occulta, a tour dedicated to black magic and the occult arts. The two and a half hour tour starts from Piazza Statuto, considered the city’s

16 W H E R E T U R I N I O C TO B E R 2019

‘heart of darkness’, and allows you to immerse yourself in the darker side of this city of two souls (www.getyourguide.it). The Torino Magica® Tour also takes you along a fascinating route amongst sinister architecture, esoteric symbols, dragons and alchemic caves. The tour ends with a sighting of a veiled woman holding the chalice of the Holy Grail (see photo). This statue, which stands in front of the Church of Gran Madre di Dio, shows the woman holding a chalice in her left hand, a symbol that represents the presence of the Holy Grail in Turin (https://somewhere.it); (www. musement.com). A slightly different take on the subject is the Torino Noir tour. This evening walking tour allows you to delve into the darker side of the city by visiting the ancient Church of the Misericordia, and the underground prisons of the oldest court in the city, led by a guide who will enthrall you with stories about criminals, the plague and the sinister practices of witchcraft that took place in the Quadrilatero Romano (www.getyourguide.it). All tours are available in English, or other foreign languages on request.

SHOPS AND BOOKSHOPS DEDICATED TO ESOTERICISM > Esotericamente offers a wide assortment of ritualistic objects, talismans, tarot cards and cards from all over the world, incense, crystals and everything required for ritualistic practices. The bookstore is large and well-stocked. www.esotericamente.it > Arethusa. At Italy’s oldest occult bookshop, established in 1948, you can find a comprehensive selection of publications dedicated to spiritual, mysterious or esoteric subjects, plus a wide range of tarot cards, pendulums, crystal balls, Tibetan Mala, runes and incense. arethusalibreria.com > Libreria Editrice Psiche publishes and sells works related to medicine, naturopathy, psychology, spirituality, sophism, Buddhism, Taoism and numerology at its namesake bookstore. Meetings, courses and themed seminars are also organized here. www.libreriaeditricepsiche.info

WHERE NOW | SHOPPING

GIFT

GUIDE

SWAROVSKI

The ‘Tarot Magic’ jewelry family is inspired by the mystical world of tarot symbols. Sparkling with blue crystals, this beautiful gold-tone plated necklace features a swallow, a key and a hand symbol. www.swarovski.com

We’ve compiled a short guide offering ideas for him and her. A great opportunity to spend some pleasant moments browsing the boutiques in the centre of Turin, while enjoying the discreet, elegant charm of the Piedmontese capital.

◄ CALVIN KLEIN The minimalist line of the ‘Calvin Klein Minimal’ watch is an on-trend edit. A stylish accessory for him and her, it comes with a stainless mesh strap and is water resistant. www.calvinklein.it

▼ BOTTEGA VELASCA A high-top sneaker for men in search of a casual, elegant style. Crafted in full grain calfskin with a white rubber sole, it’s ideal for out-of-town weekends or as a complement to informal office attire. it.velasca.com

◄ MICHAEL KORS As seen on the Fall 2019 runway, this feather boa is luxuriously crafted from Italian silk organza and embroidered with luxe feathers. Count on it to lend rich texture and inimitable glamour to myriad looks. www.michaelkors.it

▼ MIU MIU This nappa leather matelassé clutch features two zip closures and a removable shoulder strap. A must-have accessory available in a range of five colours including Chrome, Orchid, Ultramarine blue, Black and Cameo. www.miumiu.com

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WHERE NOW | AROUND THE CORNER

The Regge Sabaude In addition to offering an overview of olden-day court life, the Regge Sabaude testifies to the modern history of Piedmont and Italy. B Y G I U L I A M I N E R O

Reggia di Venaria Reale 18 W H E R E T U R I N I O C TO B E R 2019

PALAZZINA DI CACCIA DI STUPINIGI Stupinigi was built in Baroque style in 1729, and is only 10km as the crow flies from

Piazza Castello. In addition to being used for long hunting expeditions in the company of members of the local aristocracy, Stupinigi was often chosen by members of the Savoy household for celebrations and dynastic weddings. At the beginning of the 20th century, Queen Margherita of Savoy took up permanent residence here. In 1919, Stupinigi became the headquarters of the Furniture Museum, and a space for events and concerts. In addition to its original furnishings and paintings, the museum hosts several masterpieces of cabinetry. The lodge’s beautifully manicured French gardens and internal spaces are open for public viewing, while its historic park, a part of the hunting reserve, is closed to the public www.ordinemauriziano.it CASTELLO DI RIVOLI Established as a military fortress in 1247, the Rivoli Castle was the first residence of the Savoy duchy. During the 17th century, it was converted

Reggia di Venaria Reale Chapel of Saint Hubert

REGGIA DI VENARIA REALE Located inside the Park of La Mandria, in the historic centre of the town of Venaria, the Reggia di Venaria Reale is a Baroque-style complex built in the mid-17th century as a glorified hunting lodge for Carlo Emanuele II. Its present-day appearance is the result of work by several prominent architects of

the era, including Amedeo di Castellamonte, Michelangelo Garove and lastly Filippo Juvarra, who designed many of its most beautiful and widely photographed spaces, including the Grand Gallery, the Chapel of Saint Hubert and the imposing 18th-century complexes of the Juvarra Stables and the Citroniera (Orangerie), now used to host exhibitions and events. Inside the Reggia di Venaria Reale, multimedia installations enable visitors to reconstruct the history of court life, while the apartments of King Vittorio Emanuele II of Savoy and his wife Rosa Vercellana, remodelled in the adjacent Castello della Mandria, are open for public viewing, as is the room hosting the collection of royal jewels. On the last floor of the palace, above the monumental corridor known as the Galleria di Diana, discerning diners can enjoy a delightful meal at the Dolce Stil Novo alla Reggia, the Reggia’s Michelin-starred restaurant. www.lavenaria.it

he royal residences are easily accessible by bus or car from Turin, and are among some of the bestpreserved examples of 17th and 18th century European architecture. They are a living testimony to the prestige of the local monarchy, the Savoy family, the first kings of unified Italy. In addition to Castello del Valentino and Villa della Regina (see Top in Town), the favourite city-based residences of duchesses and princesses, and the fortress of Castello di Moncalieri, the Regge Sabaude complex, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1997, includes hunting lodges and country residences, embellished with gardens that reflect the sophistication of courtly life.

Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi

into an aristocratic residence, and enlarged with the addition of a wing known as the Manica Lunga, with the ducal picture gallery. Its imposing spaces are now the headquarters of a Museum of Contemporary Art, which also hosts temporary exhibitions. The courtyard of the castle is also home to Combal.Zero, a contemporary starred restaurant whose panoramic glass walls offer glorious views across the countryside as well as the surrounding castle. www.castellodirivoli.org

Castello di Rivoli (Manica Lunga)

Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi

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WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN

Discovering Piedmont

Avant-garde wineries, a legacy of world-class cuisine and marvelous landscapes. All of these things have earned the areas of the Langhe, Roero and Monferrato UNESCO World Heritage status, resulting in an elite tourist destination. BY CHIARA ZACCARELLI

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his is UNESCO’s official reason for adding the wine-growing regions of the Langhe-Roero and Monferrato to its world heritage list in 2014. “An exceptional living testimony to the historical tradition of grape growing and winemaking processes, of a social context, and a rural economy based on viticulture. The vineyards of the Langhe-Roero and Monferrato are an outstanding example of man’s interaction with his natural surroundings.” This area is protected as a ‘cultural heritage’ which is symbolic, because man has managed to shape it, giving it the unique characteristics that it boasts today. In this area, the vineyards of several of the world’s most famous wines, including Barolo, Barbaresco, Asti Spumante and Barbera, stretch as far as the eye can see, in a display of changing colours and softly rolling hills.

Although geographically the Langhe, Roero and Monferrato are neighbouring regions, they all have different morphologies, and cultural characteristics. The region’s varied landscape provides fertile soil for an impressive array of local specialties: from superlative wine, to the prized white truffles of Alba, porcini mushrooms and IGP hazelnuts. Located just an hour’s drive from Turin, these regions can be accessed by car (several of the larger centres can also be reached by train). Other options include one of the many organized wine and tasting tours on offer. Ask your concierge. THE LANGHE The Langhe are situated between the Tanaro River and Liguria, between the provinces of Asti and Cuneo. Particularly noteworthy among the area’s many tourist attractions

are its numerous castles, including that of Grinzane Cavour. Built in the 13th century and currently home to the headquarters of the ‘Cavour Regional Enoteca’, the castle, in addition to stocking several of the region’s finest Doc and Docg wines, also hosts the interesting Langhe Museum (www.castellogrinzane.com). Other mustsees include the Castle of Barolo and its surrounding town, which gives its name to the most famous Italian red wine and is thought to date back to mediaeval times. The town is home to WiMu, a unique wine museum that takes visitors on an immersive journey through the history of viticulture via light, film and installations. The museum is set over three floors of the village’s stunning medieval castle, and the tour includes a visit to the building’s panoramic terrace and its ancient wine cellars (www.wimubarolo.it).

After visiting the museum in Barolo, stop in the village of La Morra, better known as ‘the terrace of the Langhe’ thanks to its spectacular views, and head to Massimo Camia’s starred restaurant for a fabulous gourmet meal (www.massimocamia.it). In addition to other specialties, the area is renowned for its famous three-lobed hazelnut, boasting ‘Protected Geographical Indication’ status and used to make various sweet treats. If you want to purchase these tantalizing specialties and see how they’re made, visit Giovanni Cogno’s artisanal workshop (www.giovannicogno.it). Lastly, an absolute ‘must’ for lovers of medieval history and architecture is a visit to the Castle of Serralunga d’Alba, a beautifully preserved Gothic stronghold (www.castellodiserralunga. it). After the long walk up to the castle, take a break and treat yourself to a

delicious gourmet meal at the Da Guido restaurant located in the nature reserve of Fontanafredda (www.guidoristorante.it). MONFERRATO Stretching southwards, as far as the foot of the Ligurian Appenines, the Monferrato area occupies a fertile tract of terrain between the provinces of Alessandria and Asti. In addition to numerous historic, cultural and outdoor activities, Monferrato is renowned for its gastronomic specialties. Nature, culture, art and religion combine in a walk that takes visitors on a journey to discover the Nature Park of the Sacro Monte di Crea, in the province of Alessandria, a real feat of architectural design that encompasses Mount Crea and its sanctuary, which in turn, is a UNESCO World Heritage site. If you prefer a historical visit to an excursion, don’t miss w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 21

WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN

ROERO Roero is situated in the northeastern part of the province of Cuneo, to the left of the Tanaro river. Like the neighbouring Langhe, this area is renowned for its enogastronomic and cultural offerings. Among its castles, the Castle of Govone is particularly noteworthy. The castle is located in the province of Cuneo and was formerly one of the royal residences of the House of Savoy (www.castellorealedigovone.it). Located just a short distance from Alba, the Castle of Monticello is one of the most imposing and best-preserved medieval buildings in the area owing to the fact that since 1372 it has been owned and inhabited by the Roero family of Monticello (www.roerodimonticello. it). There’s nothing that says ‘royal highness’ more than a castle. Experience what it feels like to be a prince or princess for one night and stay at the Castle of Guarene, an important stopover on the Piedmontese Baroque itinerary which also hosts a hotel belonging to the Relais&Châteaux chain (www.castellodiguarene.com). For real foodies, an absolute must is the 22 W H E R E T U R I N I O C TO B E R 2019

Serralunga d’Alba castle

PHOTOS © MIKEDOTTA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

the Eco Museum of ‘Pietra da Cantone’ – a type of sandstone only found in this area – in Cella Monte. In addition to informing visitors about the history, landscapes and art of Monferrato, the museum also organizes initiatives and events targeted at highlighting the historical characteristics of the place. For some years now, the museum has undertaken the arduous but worthwhile task of taking an inventory of the ‘infernot’ in the area. ’Infernot’ are dark, airless underground spaces, carved out in stone, located beneath houses and cellars that, in some instances, are real underground tunnels. These works of arts, carved and modeled by artists, were either used to store bottles of wine, or as pantries, because the temperature inside them remains constant. Several of these old ‘infernot’ are open for public viewing, especially during the ‘vendemmia’ (grape harvest) or on special occasions (www.ecomuseopietracantoni. it). If you feel like sampling some wine, you’ll be spoilt for choice. Although the majority of local wines are red and full-bodied, like Barbera, Grignolino and Freisa, you’ll also find a good selection of whites, including Moscato. An absolute ‘must’ for wine connoisseurs visiting the area is the Enoteca Regionale di Vignale Monferrato. Located in a magnificent 17th century ‘palazzo’, the Enoteca is a great place to taste and purchase some of the area’s best local wines (www. enotecadelmonferrato.it).

Historic wine cellar in Langhe famous sausage of Bra, a delectable product made from lean beef and bacon. Since it requires hardly any ageing, it’s eaten fresh year-round and traditionally served raw, usually as an antipasto, or cooked in a sauce that is used to dress ‘tajarin’ (typically fresh Piedmontese pasta) or polenta (www. salsicciadibra.it). Only a few kilometers from Bra, a trip to the architectural complex of the Agenzia di

Pollenzo is well worth your time. Built in 1833, as a country residence for the House of Savoy, it now hosts the first University of Gastronomic Sciences in the world. This university was founded and promoted by the international Slow Food association, which studies, protects and disseminates the agricultural and enogastromic traditions of countries worldwide (www.agenziadipollenzo.com).

Alba’s International White Truffle Fair The truffle is a tuber-shaped fungus that grows underground. Although different varieties exist, due to the fact that it is particularly sensitive to environmental and climate changes and pollution, the white truffle of Alba – a rare, uncultivable species – is one of the world’s most highly prized fungi. A real subterranean gem, it is generally eaten raw and shaved over starters such as tagliolini, risottos, fried or poached eggs, and beef tartare. (C.Z.) From 5 to 24 November, this city will host Alba’s International White Truffle Fair, a key event on the tourist/culinary calendar of the Langhe, Roero and Monferrato now celebrating its 89th edition. The theme of this edition is ‘Equilibrio Perfetto’ (Perfect Balance). Eggs and white Alba truffles represent an ideal combination of taste, a delectable pairing, whose potential and multi-faceted aspects will be explored by both starred and local chefs, and cookery fans. More than just a conventional fair, the event’s strength lies in its ability to offer visitors an action-packed program of cooking demos, performances, experiential tours and artthemed events. The main draw of the fair is the Mercato Mondiale del Tartufo Bianco d’Alba (Alba White Truffle Market) where, on Saturdays and Sundays, visitors can purchase this precious tuber whose authenticity is guaranteed by the National Truffle Study Center. The market is a unique place where, in addition to purchasing certified truffles, you can learn all about the ‘trifulau’, truffle hunters, whose world consists of earth, patience, dedication and total affinity with their dogs. In addition to the above, one of the events most eagerly awaited by visitors is the

Alba Truffle Show, an event dedicated to cooking demos, the sensory analysis of truffles, wine tasting experiences and Foodie Moments, featuring different interpretations of Alba’s white truffle by starred Italian chefs. To celebrate the egg, the key ingredient of traditional dishes, one of the innovations of this 89th edition is the Atelier of fresh pasta. Four dates, starring two masters of the art, to learn the secrets of dishes like tajarin and agnolotti al plin, paired with the white Alba truffle. Simply said, a ‘perfect balance’! Piazza Risorgimento is transformed into a ‘Salotto dei Gusti e dei Profumi’, a permanent exhibition that pays tribute to the finest culinary offerings of Piedmont and Italy with tastings and educational workshops. The marriage between gastronomy, art, music and design is translated into numerous fringe events including the Donkey Palio and the entertaining Borough Bacchanal. During the fair, medieval traditions become unmissable events and even children have a chance to have fun at the Alba Truffle Bimbi pavilion. Under the guidance of expert educators, children can participate in activities, workshops and games. A place where they can learn about nature, the environment, cooking and traditions. From 18 November to 5 December, the Church of San Domenico will host ‘Leonardo da Vinci: the Genius’, an exhibition of the ‘Tavola Lucana’ attributed to da Vinci 500 years after his death. From art we move onto literature with a must-attend event featuring Japanese writer Haruki Murakami on 11 October. Last but not least, the fair will feature the ‘Classica’ event. From 6 October to 24 November, the Church of San Giuseppe will host Sunday morning concerts dedicated to the best of classical music. On 12 October, MilleunanotaJazz&Co, Alba’s autumn festival, will kick off with four dates dedicated to jazz and contemporary music.. www.fieradeltartufo.org

Alba, Piazza Risorgimento

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[ D A I LY T O U R S ]

Fashion outlets LUGANO MENDRISIO Vicolungo The Style Outlets Torino Outlet Village

BERGAMO BRESCIA

NOVARA

TRIESTE

MILANO

TORINO

ALESSANDRIA

? Mondovicino Outlet Village

Located in Piedmont, just a short distance from Turin, don’t miss a trip to these shopping destinations offering year-round discounts.

PIACENZA

BOLOGNA

Serravalle GENOVA Designer Outlet

The Mall Sanremo

VENTIMIGLIA

MAR LIGURE

THE APPENNINI MOUNTAIN RIDGE

Vicolungo The Style Outlets

RIMINI

PISA FIRENZE LIVORNO

SIENA

VICOLUNGO TORINO OUTLET VILLAGE THE STYLE OUTLETS With over 90 stores of top Italian Situated 40 minutes from and international brands, as well Turin, this is the ideal place to as a selection of carefully selected spend a stylish day out where CORSICA eateries, guest services, and shopping, entertainment and amenities for families, this is an relaxation combine to satisfy all elegant, relaxing place. Open daily, requirements. Open 7 days a week 10am-8pm (Sat, Sun and public from 10 am to 8 pm. holidays 10am-9pm). • WHERE: take the A4 Torino• WHERE: located in Settimo Milano motorway and exit at Torinese, just 15 minutes from the Biandrate Vicolungo. A daily shuttle centre of Turin, 30 minutes from service, departing at 10am from the main cities in Piedmont and 75 Turin – Piazza Carlo Felice, 63 (in minutes from Milan, near the exits front of the Porta Nuova train from the A4 and A5 motorways, station) is available from Milan. For the Outlet is easily accessible by information and reservations: 02 car. The outlet provides a daily 867131 www.zaniviaggi.it. shuttle bus service from the SARDEGNA • WHAT: 150 prestigious designer city centre and a weekly service stores, including Armani, Missoni, from the main tourist resorts in Trussardi, Tommy Hilfiger, Cavalli, Piedmont and Valle d’Aosta. Calvin Klein and Twin Set, offering • WHAT: a must for shopping apparel for the whole family, lovers, it boasts 90 stores of top sportswear, homeware and brands (Armani, Coach, Gucci, beauty products at discounted La Perla, Michael Kors, Guess, prices of up to 70% year-round. Timberland, Tommy Hilfiger and • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: Vicolungo more) specializing in apparel, Vicolungo The Style Outlets also accessories, footwear, homeware, hosts art exhibitions, events and sports gear and personal care, with other initiatives for an entertaining year-round discounts of up to 70%. day’s outing. www.thestyleoutlets.it www.torinooutletvillage.com 24 W H E R E T U R I N I O C TO B E R 2019

Torino Outlet Village

ANCONA Serravalle Designer Outlet

Mondovicino Outlet Village

PERUGIA SERRAVALLE MONDOVICINO DESIGNER OUTLET OUTLET VILLAGE Located just 90 minutes from Situated one hour from Turin, Turin, McArthurGlen Serravalle in the province of Cuneo, PESCARA is the largest Designer Outlet in Mondovicino Outlet Village offers Europe. The centre’s beautiful a unique shopping experience, setting combines all the appeal of where you can find beautiful ROMA luxury designer brands with the surroundings and appealing beauties of the surrounding area. fashion brands. Open daily, from • WHERE: accessible via the A21 10 am to 8 pm. and A26 motorways (Novi Ligure • WHERE: take the A6 Torinoexit). A convenient shuttle bus Savona motorway and exit at NAPOLI A free shuttle service, service departs daily (9am to Mondovì. 8.20pm) from the railway stations departing from Turin (Corso of Arquata Scrivia, Serravalle Vittorio Emanuele II corner of via Scrivia and Novi Ligure. Sacchi) at 9.15am, and returning • WHAT: a go-to destination to the designated pick-up point featuring 300 of your favourite in the city at 4.50pm, is available. designer brands including Gucci, For info and reservations: 011 Dolce&Gabbana, Hugo Boss, 19704670 www.zalunviaggi.com. Bluemarine, Versace, La Perla, • WHAT: over 90 prestigious Pollini, Roberto Cavalli, Brooks designer stores – including Brothers, Fratelli Rossetti and Adidas, Alviero Martini 1a Classe, Enrico Coveri, Fratelli Rossetti, Casadei, at up to 30-70% less yearKappa and Liu.Jo Uomo with round. Multiple customer services, a selection of apparel for men, including free Wi-Fi, multilingual women and children, plus staff, a children’s playground, as sportswear, homeware and well as cafés and restaurants, beauty products at discounted make for a unique shopping prices of up to 70% year round. experience at unbelievable prices! www.mondovicino.it McArthurGlen.it/Serravalle

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SHOPPING R

.C E T R R A V E L E

Welcome back, San Carlo dal 1973! A new oasis has opened in the centre of Turin where you can shop for the creations of emerging fashion, furnishing and design brands, enjoy a snack or attend presentations and concerts. By Giulia Minero

an Carlo dal 1973, one of the most iconic and futuristic Italian concept stores has been revamped and re-opened in a courtyard that formerly housed the stables of the aristocratic Palazzo Villa. Having abandoned its former vocation for big-name fashion brands, this new multi-functional store, the result of the creative talent of its owner Giorgina Siviero, acts a bridge between Piazza San Carlo and via Lagrange and is spread over 940 sq.m. on several levels. Its innovative, sustainable architectural concept, infused with natural light and decorated with plants as furnishing elements, was designed by Jeannot Cerutti to highlight the collections based on a â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;no brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; approach, giving way to a highly select assortment of creations by

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emerging designers. Inside, the ground floor is dedicated to perfumes, essences and accessories, plus artisanal jewelry from British, Japanese and American designers. On the first floor, apparel, homeware and hand-crafted Japanese items combine to give life to an unconventional shopping experience. On the second floor, a terrace with a bar welcomes customers wanting to indulge in a relaxing break, sip a cocktail or choose their favourite dish from the small menu that changes weekly. >> San Carlo dal 1973 Piazza San Carlo, 161 c/o Palazzo Villa T: 011 5114111. Map F4 www.sancarlodal1973.com

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN

Guidelines ACCESSORIES

The

This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. MAP LOCATIONSNote that references in bold at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc.) refer to the coordinates on the street map (pages 46-47). SHOPPING Shopping hours are generally from 10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Turin) and on Monday mornings. Ask your concierge. Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.

Atelier Nina Tauro

Established in 2006 in the vibrant San Salvario district, this workshop produces a variety of hat styles, including unique, handmade models in fabric, felt, leather and crochet. All materials are carefully selected, with a particular focus on quality. Inserts and details, including flowers, buckles, lace and trimmings, are prevalently vintage. In addition to winning the ‘Eccellenza Artigiana’ award from Piedmont in 2009, in 2010 the Atelier was awarded the Slow Fashion registered trademark by CNA Turin which guarantees 100% Made in Italy quality and workmanship. The Atelier also creates made-to-order hats for brides and special occasions. Open Tues-Sat 11am-1pm/4pm-8pm. Via S. Anselmo, 26/C. Off Map

Ombrellificio Torinese Located in the ancient Barriera di Milano district, this artisanal workshop has created bespoke umbrellas since 1931. In his shop, Carlo, the fifth generation of the founding family, makes numerous models, sewing the rib tips by hand and assembling the multi-coloured fabrics and materials. Customers can personalize their own umbrellas, choosing from different fabrics, embroidery, shafts and edgings. The handles in acacia or transparent resin can be filled with copper threads, shells, ribbons or dried flowers… a real sartorial, tailor-made umbrella. Open Mon, Wed, Fri 9.30am-6pm; Tues 9.30am-12noon/2pm-6pm; Thurs by appointment only; Sat 8am-12noon. www.ombrelli.it. Via Sesia, 23/b. T: 011 852104. Off Map

TAXFREE SHOPPING

By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund. UnionPay Service Hotline: 00 800 800 95516 e-mail: europe@unionpayintl.com

UnionPay is an international bankcard association based in China and serves the world’s largest cardholder base. With more than 7 billion cards issued worldwide, UnionPay has become the mayor payment method of the outbound Chinese. By June 2018, more than 600,000 merchants in Italy accept UnionPay card for payment, among which 10,000 merchants are located in Turin. This allows hundred of thousands of affluent Chinese customers to shop with their favourite cards. UnionPay also actively work with famous retail groups, such as Rinascente department stores, McArthurGlen Designer Outlets, SINA hotels, Aspesi fashion boutiques, to provide special discount or services for UnionPay cardholders. DINING

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30€ or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. SIGHTSEEING

The information provided on museums and monuments is verified as meticulously as possible. However, data such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices and the accessibility of sites are all subject to change, on a seasonal basis and also due to restoration work, museum loans or changes of management. Ask your concierge.

An exclusive fall at Vicolungo The Style Outlets

In autumn, shopping at Vicolungo The Style Outlets becomes even more exclusive! The fall/winter collections of more than 300 brands of men’s, women’s and children’s apparel, accessories, homeware and cosmetics, with year-round discounts of from 30% to 70% on the retail price, await you at the outlet’s 150 boutiques. Thanks to the presence of big-name brands including Colmar, The North Face, Napapijri, Salomon,Timberland, Kappa, Dolomite, Quiksilver, Odlo and Under Armour, the outlet is also the favourite shopping destination of sports enthusiasts. Located just 40 minutes from Turin, the centre is easily accessible by car (A4 Milano-Torino motorway, Biandrate/Vicolungo exit). The outlet is connected to the city centre by a convenient shuttle service which departs every Saturday and Sunday at 10am from Piazza Carlo Felice, in front of the Porta Nuova railway station. Numerous bars and restaurants guarantee a unique gastronomic experience dedicated to the quality and flavours of Italian tradition, enhanced by Antonino, il Banco di Cannavacciuolo’s ‘smart gourmet’ point offering a rich selection of gourmet gastronomy in both ‘smart’ and ‘on the go’ versions. Vicolungo The Style Outlets offers customers numerous services including tax free shopping and free Wi.Fi. Lastly, by presenting this page at the Info Point, you can collect your shopping card which entitles you to an additional discount of 10% on the outlet price, at participating shops. For more information visit http://vicolungo.thestyleoutlets.it

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[ FA SHION DESIGNERS]

Top Brands A stroll through the streets of the centre, amidst elegant royal porticoes (that extend for 18km across the city), and squares embellished with sumptuous architecture, is a unique opportunity to soak up the city’s authentic charm. It’s also a great destination for shopping enthusiasts. In the heart of the city, often referred to as ‘little Paris’, you’ll find the best fashion brands. In particular, the austere and elegant via Roma and the parallel via Lagrange, do justice to the exquisite Italian and international fashions on display. Alternately, a reference point for young, trendy fashion is via Garibaldi – one of the longest pedestrian streets in Europe – which runs from Piazza Castello to Piazza Statuto. The ideal place for lovers of antiques and vintage items is via Po, which links Piazza Castello to Piazza Vittorio Veneto. ASPESIOpen Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Galleria San Federico, 46. T: 011 5613577. Map F4 BRUNELLO CUCINELLI www.brunellocucinelli.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 8. T: 011 4407207. Map F4

GUCCIwww.gucci.com Open daily 10am7.30pm. Via Roma, 112. T: 011 4546632. Map F4 HERMÈSwww.hermes.com Open Mon-Sat 10.15am-2pm/3pm-7pm. Via Roma, 124. T: 011 546971. Map F4 ITALIA INDEPENDENT www.italiaindependent.com Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 31. T: 011 19885704. Map F5

WOLFORDwww.wolford.it Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Wed 10am1.30pm/2.30pm-7.30pm; Thus-Sat 10am7.30pm; Sun 3.30pm-7pm. Via A. Doria, 6. T: 011 531348. Map F5

L’AUTRE CHOSEwww.lautrechose.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 20/A. T: 011 19468000. Map F5 LOUIS VUITTONwww.louisvuitton.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via Roma, 320. T: 011 5620678. Map E5 MARINA RINALDI—it.marinarinaldi.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via Roma, 314. T: 011 5187050. Map E5 MAX & CO.it.maxandco.com Open Mon 11am-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Roma, 69. T: 011 541276. Map F4 MICHAEL KORSwww.michaelkors.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am7pm. Via Roma, 322. T: 011 5618172. Map E5 MIU MIUwww.miumiu.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 6c. T: 011 4782004. Map F4 MONCLERwww.moncler.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 2. T: 011 5618744 Map F4 MONTBLANCwww.montblanc.com Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. Via Roma, 104. T: 011 5187109. Map E5

CALVIN KLEINwww.calvinklein.com Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Roma,342. T: 011 5613226. Map F4

PRADAwww.prada.com Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 2/q. T: 011 3710203. Map F4

CHANELwww.chanel.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 2. wwT: 011 5066699. Map F4

ROBE DI KAPPAwww.robedikappa.com Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Via G. Garibaldi, 33. T: 011 19886532. Map F3

GIORGIO ARMANIwww.armani com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Piazza San Carlo, 145. T: 011 5627768. Map E5 • Emporio Armani: Via Buozzi Bruno, 5. T. 011 5625977. Map F4

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO www.ferragamo.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via Roma, 108. T: 011 5625940. Map E5

28 W H E R E T U R I N I O C TO B E R 2019

SWAROVSKIwww.swarovski.com Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Via Roma, 335. T: 011 535345. Map E5 • Open Mon 3.30pm7.30pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am-1pm/3.30pm7.30pm. Corso Racconigi, 32 bis. T: 011 3852651. Off Map

Designed by Virginie Viard who took over Karl Lagerfeld’s role, CHANEL’S fall/winter collection interprets the theme of travel with sobriety.

[RINASCENTE]

One-stop shop

The best shopping in Turin

THIS PAGE IS KINDLY SPONSORED BY RINASCENTE

Head to Rinascente: located in the heart of the Savoy city, the store now completely renovated - offers new aesthetics and new spaces for a unique shopping experience.

The Rinascente department store in Turin has completed a dynamic global restyling process that has now provided the building with a new façade overlooking Via Lagrange in order to optimise the retail space inside and give the new Turin Rinascente store a more distinctive identity. Following the opening of the -1 floor dedicated to homeware, design and food, now the ground floor hosts a new area devoted to accessories, jewelley and sunglasses, a Beauty Hall, featuring high-end makeup brands, and the new Temakinho restaurant, where you can sampling Japanese-Brazilian cuisine. The first floor instead acts as a showcase for classic collections, with a focus on outerwear by brands including Emporio Armani, Fay and Polo Ralph Lauren. The other side of the floor hosts more contemporary offerings, with brands like Corneliani Collection and Hugo Boss, or more relaxed options, including Aspesi

or Eleventy. On the second floor, visitors will find themselves immersed in a world of contemporary fashion. Fans of denim will be spoilt for choice, thanks to iconic brands like Armani Exchange, Calvin Klein Jeans, Diesel, Levi’s and Tommy Jeans, accompanied by a selection of streetwear labels. Another groundbreaking addition is the creation of an outdoor clothing area, where brands showcased include EA7, Napapijri or The North Face. The third floor presents contemporary ready-to-wear, expressed to perfection for a complete day-to-night lifestyle look. The focal point of the floor is a 250 square meter area dedicated to footwear. Brands showcased include Casadei, Isabel Marant, Kenzo, Marni, Sergio Rossi, Tod’s, Hogan, Tory Burch, Fratelli Rossetti, Michael Kors and numerous others. Lovers of a casual-chic look will be spoilt for choice when it comes to sneakers. Brands

include Adidas Y3, All Star Converse, Nike, Premiata, Puma, Reebok, Superga and more. The fourth floor is the kingdom of classic ready-to-wear featuring the timeless allure of the latest collections by Aspesi, Emporio Armani, Fabiana Filippi, Herno, Fay, Polo Ralph Lauren, MaxMara Weekend and other brands renowned for their contemporary classic style. The floor’s 1,200 square metres also host an area devoted to lingerie, in a visually striking architectural display, infused with a romantic mood; the collections include items from Wolford, Paladini, Emporio Armani, Henro, Calvin Klein, Chantelle and Lejaby. The children’s collections, featuring on-trend picks by big-name brands complete the shopping experience at the store. >> Rinascente Torino www.rinascente.it - Open 7 days a week. Via G.L. Lagrange, 15. T: 011 5170075. w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 29

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N VIA M A RGran IA Located in the picturesque piazza Madre, this Men’s fashion is a perfect blend of An ideal destination for lovers of a chic, sought-after G V I T stylistic research TO A U S I L I AT R I C E LO RIO LLI shop, selling handbags and accessories, will satisfy style, this stand-alone store offers a selection of A Na product V I Aand high-quality fabrics, offering clients BO DR EIS S. G A your every whim, whether you’re lovers of Ash biker that’s Via established and emerging brands including Loboutin, I U S excellent value for money. www.boggi.com. VI Chiesa di S. Gioachino EP Piccola Casa della PE Divina Provvidenza boots, Golden Goose sneakers, Aquazzura pumps, XX Settembre, 11/c. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; TuesAzzedine Alaia, Isabel Marant and Giambattista Valli. Cottolengo PIAZZA BENE D E TMap DELLA TT Castaner wedges or Stuart Weitzman’s jeweled Sat 10am-7.30pm. E5 * Stazione Porta Nuova Additionally, its homeware department features TO I FORCA CO sandals. It also stocks a selection of bags, bijoux and furnishing fabrics, unique design pieces and a careful - Via Nizza. Open Mon-Sun 8am-9pm. T: 011 5622017. TT OL auteur fragrances. www.reginashoes.it. Open Mon C Map E6 selection of tableware and furnishing accessories. EN VIA esa GO OR S.C NIO a Valdese HI 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Wed www.sosanlorenzo.it. Open Mon3.30pm-7.30pm; SO G E9am-1pm/3pm-7.30pm; AR A EU Caramello RE Thurs-Fri 9am-7.30pm; Sat 9.30am-1.30pm/3pmTues-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Des Ambrois, 7. T: 011 IPE C N G I centre of Turin, this large showroom Located in the RI 7.30pm. della Regina, 3. T: 011 8193029. 883531. Map G5 N O P Via Villa V S IA A R offers a wide selection of men and women’s fashions. SA C OMap I6 M NT Anagrafe A C Top Ten The assortment rangesAfrom R GElisabetta Franchi’s HI VI AR A VIA A H E to sartorial C Afeminine, contemporary collections Located in the highly central via Soleri, this two-level men’s Centro Palatino SA Ex Ospedale San Luigi RL ND R Pala Fuksas O OM T A of MadeI G Tagliatore, from Dondup, the Iqueen space has been, since its inception, a reference point brand EN VIA N I CO VIA AZ DE IO SA L forMercato the city’s elite. Its discreet, minimalist architectural in-Italy denim, to Patrizia Pepe and Manuel Ritz. 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Map D3 GI LC prestigious designer labels including Owens, ARick NA Santa Chiara RM Soleri, 2. T: 011 535360. Map INE ME5 PIAZZET TA Jil Sander, Anne Demeulemeester, Maison Margiela AR Chiesa di Kristina Ti Sant’ DELLA Agostino GH VIA VISITAZIONE S . brand Kristina ER and Gareth Pugh. The choice of designer labels and The standalone store of Torinese Verdelilla IT VIA CH San Giovanni P I A Z Z A Basilica V A BOU the store’s interior decor are a reflection Chiesa del IAR Porta Palatina IA Battista of Claudio S Tucked away in a beautiful courtyard in Corso Re offers romantic, highly feminine collections designed CHE A Mauriziana AN Carmine Giardino RON S A V O I A D VIA O M Jan Palach RONDÒ V Antonioli’s personal style. His philosophy is based E Umberto, this alluring space houses a selection of by Cristina Tardito. 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BARI - BOLOGNA - CATANIA - FIUMICINO - LECCE - LUGANO - MALPENSA MANTUA - MILAN - PADUA - TAORMINA

Rocca is the only high-end Italian jewellery and watch-making company that has distributed and proposed, for over 200 years, the most esteemed Brands in its Boutiques, in compliance with the concessions.

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SHOPPING low-key femininity. www.verdelilla.it. Open Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. Corso Re Umberto, 27. T: 011 5172701. Map D6

www.maledettitoscani.com. Open Mon-Fri 9am-5pm. Via P. Micca, 18. T: 011 5579134. Map E4

DEPARTMENT STORE

PASSION SHOPPING

Rinascente

Culti House Torino

Italy’s most prestigious temple of high-end shopping is located in the city’s highly central via Lagrange. This department store offers the best in fashion for men, women and children, alongside a selection of accessories, design, homeware and beauty by the best Italian and international brands. At its food market, you’ll find the best gourmet Made-in-Italy foods, and a fabulous selection of prestigious international products. Don’t miss the renewed floors: -1 (home-food-design), 3rd and 4th floors (women’s fashion). Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-8pm; Sat 9.30am8.30pm; Sun10am-8pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 15. T: 011 5170075. Map F5

JEWELLERY & WATCHES Astrua 1860 ROLEX RETAILER Astrua 1860, one of the oldest watchmakers in Europe, is located in the heart of Turin, between the First Italian Parliament and the National Library. A key visitor attraction at the entrance to the boutique is an elevator operated with a visible gear mechanism reminiscent of those used in watches. At its historic store, boasting an innovative, modern concept, Astrua presents its contemporary jewelry creations, exquisite leather goods and precious accessories. In addition to several of the world’s most coveted watch brands, including Rolex, Patek Philippe, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Cartier, Vacheron Constantin, Omega, Panerai, IWC, Hublot, Baume&Mercier, Longines and Montblanc, Maison Astrua 1860 stocks Murano glass by Venini, creations by Tudor, luxury accessories, Edward Green footwear, Amouage fragrances and Pasotti umbrellas. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-1.30pm/3pm-7pm. www.astrua.com. Via Cesare Battisti, 15 corner of Piazza Carlo Alberto. T: 011 5613873. Map F4

At this small, charming boutique decorated in shades of ochre and sand, you’ll find the culture of Culti, designed to stimulate the senses in a mixture of design, art and fragrance. The space houses all the brand’s collections of room and home fragrances including diffusers, room sprays, candles, cosmetics and scented pillows. www.culti.com. Open Tues-Sat 10.30am–2pm/3pm-7.30pm. Via C. Battisti, 3. T: 011 0361363. Map F4

La Belle Histoire Located underneath the Mole Antonelliana, this retròstyle atelier, overlooking a picturesque courtyard, is a go-to destination for romantics who’ll find themselves surrounded by old suitcases, trunks, wooden vintage furniture and brocade armchairs. The store offers a selection of almost exclusively Made-in-Italy garments, with the exception of French brand Lilith, Spanish brand Hoss Intropia and Japanese brand Takaaki. Other highlights include a collection of strictly Italian-made footwear and a homeware line. www.labellehistoire.it. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 10am-1pm; 3.30pm-7.30pm; Thurs and Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via Montebello 15/g.T: 011 8136199. Map H3

Rrriot shop Tucked away in the creative, multi-ethnic district of San Salvario, this shop, distinguished by its minimalist decor, mixes men and women’s clothing with vintage jewelry and accessories and young, creative brands. Thanks to ongoing research, Rrriot strives to offer its customers a range of products that are always different and innovative. Its aim is to introduce Turin

to Northern European brands designed exclusively for the Italian market. www.rrriotshop.com. Tues-Fri 10.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm-19.30pm; Sat 10.30am7.30pm. Via Berthollet, 25/a. T: 011 19500239. Map F7

SHOES Bottega Velasca Located in the Borgo Nuovo district, south-east of the centre of Turin, this artisanal shoe (and accessories) store for men offers customers an authentic Made in Italy experience. Renowned for its craftsmanship and Italian excellence, Bottega Velasca offers a selection of classic, casual and formal footwear. Open Mon 4pm-8pm; Tues-Fri 11am-3pm/4pm-8pm; Sat and Sun 11am-8pm. www.velasca.com. Via G. Mazzini 22/e. T: 02 94755460 (bottega.torino@velasca.com). Map G6

Hole This multi-brand store located in the heart of the city sells high-quality footwear distinguished by its original design. You’ll find a interesting mix of trendy brands here, including Ixos, Moma and Strategia, alongside models by Italian and internal artisanal producers. Also sells bags and accessories. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.15pm; Tues-Fri 10.30am-2pm/3.30pm7.15pm; Sat 10.30am-12.30am/3.30pm-7pm. Via G. Botero, 11. T: 011 5176602. Map E3

Cribì Established in 1996, and located in Turin’s highly central via Lagrange, Cribi is a multi-brand store selling minimalist, alternative footwear and clothing, featuring a combination of craftsmanship and experimentation to create elegant, timeless lines. Best sellers include boots by Fiorentini+Baker, pumps by Del Carlo and original clothing by Malloni and Liviana Conti. www.cribibotique.it. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30 pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-2pm/3.30pm7.30pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 38. T: 011 5611348. Map F5

Rocca 1794 ROLEX RETAILER Master jewelers and watchmakers since the 18th century, Rocca rates among the first importers of luxury Swiss watches. Rocca pays homage to fine watchmaking with a selection of the world’s most prestigious brands including Damiani, Rolex, Ulysse Nardin, Omega, Breitling, Blancpain, Venini and Salvini. Rocca is acknowledged for its longstanding tradition of professionalism and expert consultancy. Located in the shadow of the Mole Antonelliana, its founder, Alberto Rocca, opened his first boutique at the end of the 18th century. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7pm, Sun 10.30am-1.30pm/3pm-7pm. www.rocca1794.com. Via Roma, 290. T: 011 5621467/5629260. Map F4

LEATHER & LUGGAGE Maledetti Toscani This story began in 1848 in Montepulciano, Tuscany, when the great-great grandfather of the present owners opened a leather workshop. Today, although Maledetti Toscani owns shops in Europe, the USA and Canada, it continues to focus religiously on time-honoured Made-in-Italy craftsmanship. Hence, the creation of footwear, renowned for its delightfully aged appearance, crafted in only the finest leathers, dyed with tree tannins and enhanced with real leather soles, and hand woven, hand-stitched artisanal bags. 32 W H E R E T U R I N I O C TO B E R 2019

ROCCA 1794 The historic Rocca Boutique is a prestigious, luxury destination and the only retailer in the city selling the world’s most desirable jewelry and watch brands. It comprises two floors, four hundred square metres, nine brightly-lit shop windows and top name brands. www.rocca1794.com

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DINING

The Veg that you weren’t expecting Chiodi Latini New Food offers a creative vegetable-based menu. A return to authentic ingredients, with a new approach to healthy food, and a focus on taste. By Chiara Zaccarelli

his cuisine transcends today’s fads, and goes beyond the sterile definitions of ‘vegetarian’ or ‘vegan’, codifying a new type of authentic, plant-based gastronomy that focuses on the concept of whole foods. “We have a unique, experimental approach to cuisine, and we are receptive to international influences. We use unprocessed raw materials, ongoing research, the selection and enhancement of plant-based ingredients and the fusion of the fruits of the land in which we find ourselves with flavours that come from afar. We are Italian, but we don’t cook Italian-style. If anything, you could say that we think like Italians. This is our added value.” This is the philosophy of Antonio Chiodi Latini, the chef of the Chiodi Latini New Food restaurant. Piedmontese by adoption, but 34 W H E R E T U R I N I O C TO B E R 2019

originally from Lombardy, he decided to dedicate himself entirely to plant-based cuisine after years of focusing on traditional cooking (he was a pupil of Gualtiero Marchesi). The culinary concept of Chiodi Latini New Food cannot be labeled. It doesn’t focus on any defined tastes, and embodies a range of flavours and colours of the earth, with a lot of fusion. The chef uses only prime-quality, seasonal vegetables, in the forms that are closest to the way that nature produces them, and prefers these to refined products. At lunch, the restaurant offers a bistro formula, featuring 4 different menu choices designed to offer guests a quick, healthy lunch break. At dinner, guests can indulge in a leisurely gourmet experience featuring a choice of three different meal options that allow you to taste from four to seven of the chef’s creations. The

ambience is basic and minimalist chic, with only a few tables, and an intimate, informal atmosphere. >> Chiodi Latini New Food Via San Quintino, 33/C . T: 011 5623631. www.chiodilatininewfood.com. Map D5

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN

TRADITIONAL PIEDMONTESE CUISINE

Michelin-starred restaurants

Cannavacciuolo Bistrot

Seven starred restaurants, serving sublime dishes infused with the flavours, traditions and creativity of the region await visitors to Turin. (C. Z.)

Located just steps from the Gran Madre, this Turinbased bistro owned by multi-award winning Italian chef Antonino Cannavacciuolo, will not disappoint. The bistro offers guests a unique tasting experience featuring a combination of northern and southern flavours. Highlights include Fassona beef tartare, codfish with tomatoes, eggplant parmigiana ravioli with a Provola cheese sauce and pigeon with blueberries and burrata (a fresh Italian buffalo milk cheese made from mozzarella and cream). Open Mon 7pm-11pm; Tues-Sat 12.30pm-3pm/7pm-11pm. €€€. www.cannavacciuolobistrot.it/torino. Via U. Cosmo, 6. T: 011 8399893. Map I6

Casa Amelie A stone’s throw from the Quadrilatero Romano, and only a few months after opening, this small, welcoming locale owned by Neapolitan chef Guido Perino, was classified as one of the city’s top ten restaurants at the Fork Restaurants Awards, sponsored by Identità Golose. The chef’s creative yet simple cuisine features a combination of classic and exotic fare, premium-quality ingredients and seasonal products that will delight your taste buds. Open Mon 7.30pm-10.30pm; Tues-Sat 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm-10.30pm. €€. www.ristorantecasaamelie.com. Via Giulio, 4/b. T: 011 5211579. Map E2

Cianci Piola Caffè A real institution in Turin, this bustling ‘piola’ (a typical, laid-back Piedmontese tavern) offers authentic regional dishes at unbeatable prices. With tables spilling out onto the square in warmer months, this delightful locale in the heart of the Quadrilatero Romano, serves Fassona beef tartare, ‘vitello tonnato’, ‘tajerin’ (a thin version of tagliatelle), ‘agnolotti’ and a vegetable-based Piedmontese antipasto which includes tomatoes, anchovies and peppers in a sauce, accompanied by a great selection of wines. Open 12.30pm-3.30pm/6.30pm11pm. €€. Largo 4 Marzo, 9/b, T: 388 8767003. Map F3

Consorzio In the heart of the quaint Quadrilatero Romano, Consorzio offers traditional cuisine, sometimes re-imagined with a twist, featuring ‘Made-in Piedmont’ ingredients including Piedmontese beef, Cervere leeks, the hunchback thistles of Nizza Monferrato and freshly picked, garden-grown vegetables. A harmonious combination that pays tribute to customers, chefs, breeders, farmers and wine growers. Its cheeses, sourced from the best local producers, with a few forays into the rest of Italy, France or Britain for a taste of Stilton, deserve a separate mention. Open Mon-Fri 12.30pm2.30pm/7.30pm-11pm; Sat 7.30pm-11pm. €€. ristoranteconsorzio.it. Via Monte di Pietà, 23. T: 011 2767661. Map E3

È Cucina This charming restaurant owned by theatrical Florentine chef Cesare Maretti features brightly lit windows overlooking the street, contemporary décor and an open-plan kitchen, now a popular contemporary concept in Northern Italy. The chef’s underlying philosophy is based on the search for premium-quality ingredients with a particular focus on organic fruit and vegetables (all dishes are served with a side, at no additional charge) and conviviality. In the evening, guests can choose from

CANNAVACCIUOLO BISTROT TORINO Established to offer diners an elegant, unique experience, this restaurant highlights the essence of the famous Neapolitan chef Antonino Cannavacciuolo’s culinary art, which sees traditional ingredients from his homeland mixed and matched with those from Piedmont. The space has been designed in keeping with the philosophy of Feng Shui. Via Umberto Cosmo, 6. T: 011 8399893. www.cannavacciuolobistrot.it Map I6 CARIGNANO At the restaurant located inside the Grand Hotel Sitea, the culinary offerings are inspired by Piedmont’s renowned regional cuisine, re-imagined by Milanese Chef Fabrizio Tesse, offering a cuisine rooted in Piedmont tradition with a few forays into the nearby region of Liguria. His menu features traditional dishes re-imagined and re-adapted in keeping with contemporary techniques and tastes. Via Carlo Alberto, 35. T: 011 5170171. www.ristorantecarignano.it Map F5 CASA VICINA Located in the headquarters of Eataly, this restaurant is run by the Vicina family, who for five generations have embraced the region’s tradition of hospitality, fine wines and traditional cuisine, infused with prime quality ingredients. The wine list is extensive and well structured. Since Casa Vicina collaborates with Eataly, customers can choose from the emporium’s fabulously stocked wine cellar. Via Nizza, 224 c/o Eataly Lingotto. T: 011 19506840. www.casavicina.com Off Map DEL CAMBIO Established in 1757, it was among the favourite haunts of Camillo Benso, Count of Cavour, Giacomo Casanova, Honoré de Balzac, Giuseppe Verdi, Maria Callas and the Agnelli family. This restaurant is a real Torinese institution. Chef Matteo Baronetto, of Piedmontese origin, remains true to regional traditions, which he reinterprets with a creative twist. A tour of the cellar, whose 17th century aisles house 2,200 labels, is also worth a visit. Piazza Carignano, 2. T: 011 546690. www.delcambio.it Map F4

Vintage 1997

MAGORABIN Just steps from the Mole, this starred restaurant is owned by Marcello Trentini, an eclectic Chef with a strong personality. You can dine à la carte, or enjoy the restaurant’s tasting menuJust a little further on, in the same street, the chef has opened Magorabin Alimentari, a bottega/bistro with an adjacent bakery where you can purchase or taste specialty products. Corso San Maurizio, 61/b. T: 011 8126808. www.magorabin.com Map H4 SPAZIO 7 Housed in Fondazione Sandretto Re Rebaudengo, a centre for contemporary art, the dining room of Spazio 7 is an integral part of the Foundation. The cuisine offered by Alessandro Mecca, a young Chef who arrived here after working at several of Piedmont’s most historic restaurants, mirrors the foundation’s concept: young, contemporary and open to innovation. The wine list features the classics of Piedmont and its neighboring regions in France. Via Modane, 20. T: 011 3797626. www.ristorantespazio7.it Off Map VINTAGE 1997 As its name suggests, it’s renowned for its old-world atmosphere. The restaurant’s culinary offerings are also true to tradition. Rather than bold, creative pairings, you’ll find authentic Piedmontese specialties including truffles, cheeses and meats. No-frills expertise, practiced for the past twenty years with traditional Piedmontese professionalism. www.vintage1997.com Map E4

w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 35

DINING a meat, fish or vegetarian menu, accompanied by homemade bread and focacce. Open Mon-Sun 12.30pm-3am/8pm-11pm; Sun 12 noon-3pm. €€. cesaremarretti.com. Via Bertola, 27/a. T: 011 5629038. Map E3

Filiberti-Vini e Fornelli A small bistro in the Quadrilatero Romano, infused with a decidedly French atmosphere. The menu is divided into small tapas-style antipasti (referred to here as ‘minuterie’) including Bao buns topped with brisket and barbecue sauce, codfish cheek with chard and a meat consommé. Mains include pastrami or ‘plin’ re-interpreted in a Mediterranean version with Provola cheese, eggplant and tomatoes, accompanied by an extensive wine list, including several natural varieties. Open Mon 7pm-11pm; TuesThurs 12 noon-2.30pm/7pm-11pm; Fri- Sat 12noon2.30pm/7pm-midnight. €€. www.filibertiviniefornelli. it. Piazza Emanuele Filiberto, 6/a. T: 011 19173730. Map E2

Le Vitel Etonné The standout at this restaurant located in the heart of the centre is ‘vitello tonnato’, one of the great classics of Piedmont cuisine, an absolute must-try at its namesake restaurant. Other specialties include ‘tajerin’, a fresh pasta prepared according to a traditional recipe with 36 egg yolks per kilo of flour, served with an array of seasonal sauces, ‘tagliatelle’ with Bra sausage and ‘agnolotti al plin’. The locale’s 19th century cellar, featuring barrel vaults and open brick walls, hosts more than 300 labels. Open TuesSun 10.30am-midnight. €€€. www.leviteletonne.com. Via San Francesco da Paola, 4. T: 011 8124621. Map G4

Plin & Tajarin This is small eatery resembling an artist’s studio rather than a restaurant. The kitchen turns out small masterpieces like ‘plin’ and ‘tajerin’, the staples of Piedmont’s culinary tradition, which are available with numerous fillings and sauces, including vegan and vegetarian options. Before, after or as an accompaniment, diners can order meat from select Piedmont producers, delicious ‘focaccia’ made with stone-ground flour and traditional desserts, including amaretto ice cream. Open Mon-Sat 12.45pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 7.45pm-10.30pm. €€€. www.plinetajarin.it. Via G. Casalis, 59. T: 011 3828128. Map B3

Porto di Savona One of the city’s oldest restaurants, Porto di Savona opened in 1863 when Turin was the capital of Italy. The restaurant is on the city’s beautiful Piazza Vittorio, and the warm interior is laid out like a 19thcentury tavern, with Liberty-style decor, wooden boiserie, mirrors, 1940s furnishing accessories and walls decorated with period paintings and photographs. Its menu – don’t be misled by its name – features classic Piedmont cuisine including ‘vitello tonnato’, ‘agnolotti’, homemade pasta, braised meat, ‘fritto misto’, ‘bolliti’ (boiled meats), ‘Finanziera’ (a hearty dish of veal offal and cockscomb cooked with Marsala wine, vinegar and herbs) and, in winter ‘bagna cauda’. Open daily 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pmmidnight. foodandcompany.com. €€€. Piazza Vittorio Veneto, 2. T: 011 8173500. Map H5

Scannabue Located in the trendy San Salvario district, Scannabue is extremely popular thanks to its warm, laid back atmosphere and its traditional, affordable cuisine, especially among the city’s young, hip crowd. 36 W H E R E T U R I N I O C TO B E R 2019

In addition to classic regional recipes, including rabbit tuna, beef tartare and classic starters, it also serves a variety of fish dishes. Its wine list features a great selection of Piedmont labels including Arneis, Nebbiolo and Barbera. It’s advisable to book ahead. Open daily 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm-10.30pm. €€. scannabue.it. Largo Saluzzo, 25/h. T: 011 6696693. Map E7

Stefano Fanti al Circolo dei Lettori This unique restaurant is located at the Circolo dei Lettori, in the city’s 17th century Palazzo Graneri della Roccia. Formerly a private members club, the Circolo dei Lettori was a meeting place for Turin’s intellectuals, writers, poets and artists, seen in the rows of artist portraits that line the restaurant’s walls. Its traditional culinary offering is reinterpreted with a contemporary twist by chef Stefano Fantini. For an overview of regional specialties, make sure to try its tasting menu and, if you’re feeling bold, opt for the ‘Finanziera’. Open 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm10.30pm. €€€. www.circololettori.it/il-ristorante. Via Bogino, 9. T: 011 4326828. Map G4

ETHNIC CUISINE Hafa Storie A Piedmont Moroccan restaurant. In Turin, this is fairly common because the city’s second largest foreign community is the Moroccan community, and the restaurant is located in Porta Palazzo, the city’s multi-ethnic district par excellence. While the Piedmontese offerings are created by Christian Milone, a young, talented starred chef hailing from Trattoria Zappatori in Pinerolo, the Moroccan dishes are prepared by Aicha the cook. Between a sevenvegetable couscous and a braise with polenta, this restaurant lays the foundations for a harmonious, productive cultural exchange. Open Tues-Fri 11am-3pm/5pm-12.30am; Sat 10am-12.30am; Sun 11.30am-4.30pm. €€. hafastorie.it. Galleria Umberto I, 10/13. T: 011 19486765. Map F2

Kay Essenza Peruviana & Piscobar Located in the Crocetta district, this top-level Peruvian restaurant is helmed by a team of young, knowledgeable staff. The menu embraces the traditional flavours of every region in Peru, from its coast to its mountains, right up to the Amazonian forests, interpreted with a gourmet twist. Signature dishes include Fassona beef tartare with fried marrow bone and spicy mayonnaise, marinated scallops and tapioca, ceviches and even a South American interpretation of Piedmont’s classic ‘bagnetto verde’ (green sauce), accompanied by a carefully selected choice of Piedmont wines. Open Tues-Sat 12 noon-2.45pm/7pm-10.30pm; Sun 12 noon-2.45pm. €€. kayessenzaperuvianapiscobar. business.site. Via E. Torricelli, 59. T: 011 5096002. Map F2

Oriental Daily by Kiki In addition to classic sushi, sashimi and tempura, this fusion restaurant also serves spicy meat and fish curries, ramen, steaming noodles, Pad Thai, steamed ravioli, tartare, tataki and other creatives dishes. Indulge your sweet tooth with one of the venue’s original desserts including Azuki bean ice cream and sweet Chawanmush, an egg custard dish filled with cherries and wild berries. Excellent value for money. Open Mon-Fri 12.30pm-2.30pm/7pm-10.30pm; Sat 7pm-10.30pm. €€. www.orientaldaily.it. Via Cesana, 72. T: 011 4470067. Off Map

PIZZA A Casa di Pulcinella An informal locale which, as its name suggests, serves a fabulous Neapolitan pizza, accompanied by a wide selection of craft and other beers. Thanks to a natural, slow-leavening process, the pizza dough is light, tasty and easy to digest. Ingredients include the classics for which Neapolitan pizza is renowned but also those of traditional Italian regional cuisine, ranging from a Margherita topped with Bufala Campana mozzarella to a version with Moncalieri sausage.Open Tues-Sat 12pm-3pm/6.30pm10.30pm. €€. www.acasadipulcinella.it. Corso Rosselli, 82. T: 011 595457. Off Map

Bakery Restaurant & Pizza Tucked away in a peaceful area of the city, not far from the Porta Nuova station, this pizzeria/ restaurants boasts a wood-fired oven that turns out a slow-rising, Neapolitan-style pizza, featuring a soft, crunchy dough and high-quality ingredients. Diners can choose from among a variety of classic toppings, with a few regional references including sausage and ‘friarelli’ (broccoli rabe), or gorgonzola, pears and walnuts. Its well-stocked cellar boasts a number of highly select labels from Italy’s best wine producers. Open Mon-Fri 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm-11pm; Sat 7.30pm-11pm. €€. www.bakerytorino.it. Via Avigliana, 47/a. T: 011 4337074. Map B3

Crudo fa la Pizza! Crudo is an award-winning food company, boasting two osterie and a bistro in the city, renowned for their fresh high-quality ingredients, sourced from only the finest producers. It has now taken on the challenge of making one of Italy’s best-loved dishes. Nineteen different versions of pizza take diners on a culinary journey that encompasses the whole of the peninsula, from Favignana with Siccagno tomatoes, anchovy fillets, Mediterranean tuna fillets, capers and Sicilian olive oil to Aosta, with mozzarella, Fontina d’Aosta Dop and hand-sliced artisanal ham. Open daily 12 noon-3pm/7pm-11pm. €€. pizza.crudotorino. com. Via Palazzo di Città, 7/d. T: 340 2494060. Map F3

Oh Crispa!

Gusto Madre

If you’re looking for Chinese street food that’s as good as any you’ll find in Shanghai, then you’ve come to the right place. The kitchen is headed by a Chinese/Asti couple who prepare Chinese crepes stuffed with meat, Tofu or vegetables, the by now ubiquitous Baos, steamed buns filled with pork or crab, artisanal ravioli in broth, and specials that vary from day to day. All the dishes featured on the menu are made from carefully selected, strictly Piedmontese ingredients. Open Tues 6.30pm-11pm; Wed-Sat 12.30pm-3pm/6.30pm-11pm; Sun 12.30pm-3pm/6.30pm-10.30pm. Via Belfiore, 16bis/d. €. T: 339 6112705. Off Map

Pizza is experiencing a renaissance. From a dish of the people to a gourmet specialty, interpreted with numerous dough varieties, flours and ingredients. If you’re feeling overwhelmed by all these options, there are places, like Gusto Madre, that will remove any doubt. Ingredients bestowed by Mother Nature, processed to a minimum and combined with the creativity and skill inherent in time-honoured doughmaking techniques, are the reasons for the success of this healthy, easy-to-digest, multi-award winning pizza. Open from Wednesday to Monday. €€. www. gustomadre.it. Via G. Mazzini, 31/A T: 011 18894434. Map G6

DINING FOOD SHOPS Borgiattino A reference point in Turin for lovers of traditional Piedmont cheeses, including Tome and Fontine d’alpeggio, Robiola, Gorgonzola, Ormea and Castelmagno. Located in the heart of the city, this historic ‘bottega’ also offers specialties from other Italian and European regions including Reblochon from France and Cheddar from Britain, accompanied by wines and other high-quality artisanal products. Open Mon-Sat 8.30am-1pm/4pm-7.30pm. borgiattino.com. Corso Vinzaglio, 29. T: 011 5629075. Map C4

Eataly Torino Lingotto Located in Turin’s Lingotto district, Eataly is a cult destination dedicated to Italian gastronomy, offering numerous gift ideas to satisfy every palate. Set in a large converted factory, this 11,000-sq-metre emporium, houses a vast array of eateries, serving traditional Italian and Piedmontese specialties. A go-to destination for a sweet or savoury breakfast, a quick lunch, a tantalizing afternoon tea, a dinner at a pizzeria or a gourmet restaurant, without forgetting Michelin-starred restaurant Casa Vicina (entrance from via Nizza 224). Open daily 10am/10.30pm. T: 011 19506801. www.eataly.net. Via Nizza, 230. Off Map

Gastronomia (La)

VEGAN A vegan delicatessen where you can eat on-site, order take-aways, or even take cookery courses. Its dishes, all cooked with meat-free ingredients, include Seitan, Russian and Capricciosa salad and a strictly anchovyfree Piedmont green sauce for vegans who are fans of Piedmont specialties. The deli is located in via Dante Nenni, in the heart of Borgo San Paolo, Turin’s historical, working class district. Open Mon-Thus 10am-8pm; Fri 10am-10pm. Sat 9.30am-2.30pm. gastronomiaveg.it. Via Dante di Nanni, 116. T: 011 3828605. Off Map

Làit e Formagg Located just steps from the centre, this small, well-stocked shop sells Piedmontese and other cheese specialties (Parmesan cheese, ricotta, aged cheeses, ‘tomini’, ‘caprini’, herb-flavoured cheeses and more) which can be sampled with tantalizing sauces, high-quality charcuterie and other regional specialties including grissini, lingue di suocera (a type of biscuit which translates literally as mother-in-law’s tongues) and other typical sweet treats, such as Piedmontese biscuits and hazelnut cakes. From October to January, you’ll also find precious white truffles from Alba. Open Mon 11am-2pm/4pm-8pm; Tues-Sat 8am-2pm/4pm8pm. www.alformaggi.it. Via Madama Cristina, 18. T: 011 6699407. Off Map

Pescheria Gallina Now run by the fourth generation, this historic fishmonger located in Porta Palazzo’s piazza del mercato has been in business for over a century. Its wonderfully fresh fish, mainly sourced from the Ligurian Sea, guaranteeing that it was caught just 24 hours earlier, can be eaten on-site. Customers can choose their order directly from the counter or opt for its fixed-price menu, which include the catch of the day, focaccia, a glass of house wine and a bottle of water. Open Mon-Fri 07am-3pm; Sat 7.30am-5pm. www.pescheriagallina.com. Piazza della Repubblica, 14/b. T: 011 5213424. Map F2

Pastry Shops The traditional age-old art of pastry making is deeply rooted in Turin, and the city’s confectionery is famous throughout the world. Sweet treats like ‘baci di dama’, marron glacés and ‘giandujotti’ were invented here and exported abroad, while others, which are more inherently Piedmontese, are well worth discovering. It’s therefore no surprise that the city is inundated with top-level pastry shops. Although it’s impossible to mention them all, we’ve compiled a list of several that are rated top in town. By Chiara Zaccarelli CAFFÈ PLATTI If you visit just one of Turin’s historic locales, then it has to be the illustrious, belle epoque Caffè Platti. Opened in 1870, it soon became a social and cultural reference point for 20th century Turin. Here, amidst mirrors, gilded stuccoes, inlaid walnut furniture and gold Louis XVI medallions, you can sample Piedmontese specialties like ‘bunet’, Meliga pastries, ‘bignole’ and Platti cake. Since 2017, the confectionery has been run by renowned patissier Guido Gobino, the king of Torinese chocolate. www.platti.it Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 72. T: 011 4546151. GHIGO This historic pastry shop, located just steps from the Mole, is famous for its hot chocolate, served with freshly whipped cream and marrons glacés (a candied chestnut covered with a sugar glaze). At Christmas, Ghigo excels itself with its famous ‘Nuvola di Ghigo’, a traditional ‘Pandoro’ covered with a butter icing and a generous sprinkling of icing sugar. www.pasticceriaghigo.it Via Po, 52/b. T: 011 887017. PASTICCERIA VENIER Pasticceria Venier, located in the heart of the centre, is another go-to destination to start (or end) your day on a sweet note. It’s famous for its ‘marocchino’ (coffee served in a small glass cup, with a dark chocolate base, topped with foamed milk and a sprinkling of bitter cocoa powder), but also its ‘briosche’, including its custard-filled ‘torciglione’ with a hint of lemon, and its Umbertino, a biscuit resembling a ‘bacio di dama’ but with, a double layer of chocolate and two amaretti instead of shortcake. Via Monte di Pietà, 22. T: 011 541592. TORTERIA BERLICABARBIS In dialect, ‘Berlicabarbis’ means to ‘lick your lips’. A particularly apt name for a pastry shop that turns out approximately 20 different cakes a day, including cheesecake, tarts filled with custard and fresh fruit, Renetta apple caked and ricotta

and pear tarts. The venue is infused with a warm, homely Provence-style atmosphere where, amidst cast iron teapots, French tin boxes, brightly-coloured cups and vintage trays, you can purchase traditional Savoy biscuits, flower-based preserves, Leone candies and fruit preserved in honey. Vegan options are also available. berlicabarbis.com Corso Moncalieri, 214. T: 011 2074508. Via Catania, 10. T:011 231032 FARMACIA DEL CAMBIO A sophisticated Savoy-style ‘salotto’, created in the rooms of an old apothecary established in 1883, in the city’s beautiful piazza Carignano. Here, you’ll find a fabulous assortment of pastries by chef Fabrizio Galla including Veneziane, Sfogliatine, almond and orange cakes, bignès, ‘bonet’, fruit tartlets, millefeuille, hazelnut cakes and croissants. Also worth mention are the locale’s savoury offerings which include sandwiches, savoury snacks, crusty bread, bagels and more. A great place for lunch or an aperitivo. farmaciadelcambio.it. Piazza Carignano, 2. T: 011 19211250. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 37

ENTERTAINMENT

Dancing between past and present Pomp and 18th century atmospheres reawaken, for one night, against the magnificent backdrop of the Reggia di Venaria Reale, during Nuit Royale, an unmissable masked ball. By Giulia Minero

here’s a specific period during the year when the Venaria Reale returns to its antique splendour. On 6 October, the eagerly-awaited Nuit Royale, the party organized at court during the 17th century in October, now the annual reenactment of the ‘Gran Ballo' (the Great Ball), returns. According to tradition, the action-packed program kicks off with the aperitivo ritual, followed by a concert and the Gran Ballo in the sumptuous Galleria Grande. At the Gran Ballo there will be typical 17th century court dances in the Chapel of Sant’Uberto accompanied by a live orchestra playing classical music, and the Royal Dinner in the Sala di Diana. The ancient Savoy residence becomes the stage for a journey back in time lasting until the

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small hours of the morning thanks to live performances by historical musical groups, acrobats and historical reenactments, plus a DJ-set that opens the dances. This event, linking the past to the present, is strictly in period costume. Different types of tickets allow you a variety of choices: to attend the Gran Ballo, enjoy an aperitivo or, as in past centuries, immerse yourself completely in the pomp of court life, amidst the stuccoes and frescoes of the Sala di Diana. >> Nuit Royale 2019 6 October, from 8pm Reggia di Venaria Reale Piazza della Repubblica, 4 www.nuitroyale.com – www.lavenaria.it

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AFTER DINNER Hiroshima Mon Amour Founded in the Eighties, Hiroshima Mon Amour is a go-to events space for lovers of music, theatre and culture. Located near the Lingotto railway station, over the years it has become a reference point for events, music festivals, DJ sets, concerts featuring Italian and international artists, exhibitions and clubbing. www.hiroshimamonamour.org. Via Bossoli, 83. T: 011 3176636. Off Map

Jazz Club Torino Located just steps from Piazza San Carlo, the Jazz Club is justifiably one of Turin’s best venues for Italian jazz. A meeting place for lovers of the genre, its offers a diverse program of concerts with an emphasis on contemporary trends and up-andcoming artists. The venue also hosts a restaurant and lounge bar where guests can relax and enjoy a meal or a drink while listening to the music. Open Wed-Thurs 8.30pm-midnight; Fri 8.30pm-2am; Sat 8.30pm-3am; Sun: see calendar. www.jazzclub. torino.it. Via S. Francesco da Paola corner of via Giolitti. T: 011 882939. Map G5

Les Arcades This informal locale in the Porta Nuova district, made headlines a few years ago due to Tamango, a hallucinogenic cocktail, that everyone, including the BBC, talked about. Based on a secret recipe and prepared with a mix of African plants and roots, Tamango gets its red colour from roselle leaves, a species of hibiscus, which apparently prompts a sense of euphoria and a desire to dance. Open Tues-Sat 9.30pm-4am. Via Fratelli Calandra, 10. T: 339 852806. Map G6

created with a mixture of vintage furnishings and contemporary works of art. In addition to cocktails, it offers a wide choice of wines and liqueurs, accompanied by a fabulous selection of finger food, focacce and hot, bite-sized pizzas. Open MonThurs 5pm-to 2am; Fri 5pm-3am; Sat 10am-3am; Sun 10am-2am. www.la-drogheria.it. Piazza Vittorio Veneto, 18/d. T: 011 8122414. Map H5

Lanificio San Salvatore Located in the trendy, vibrant San Salvario district, this former wool mill serves high-quality cocktails accompanied by a rich buffet of large, tantalizing dishes that are also suitable for vegetarians. Highlights include an interesting wine list, including numerous organic labels, plus a good selection of classic cocktails. The venue also organizes themed evenings and live concerts. Open: Mon-Thurs 6pm2am; Fri-Sat 6pm-3am; Sun 11am-2am. Via Sant’Anselmo, 30. T: 011 0867568. Map F7

THEATRES Teatro Carignano One of the most important theatres in Turin, it was the place where the king went to watch plays (opera was only performed at the Teatro Regio). Dating back to 1700, it is run by the prestigious Teatro Stabile di Torino and located in the city’s beautiful piazza Carignano, opposite Palazzo Carignano. Teatro Carignano has a reputation for producing

theatre of the highest standards and presents an unrivalled range of classics, new plays and family entertainment. Open Tues-Sat 1pm-7pm. www.teatrostabiletorino.it. Piazza Carignano, 6. T: 011 5169555. Map F4

Teatro Nuovo Teatro Nuovo is Turin’s temple of dance. In addition to the Teatro Nuovo Foundation, it is home to the Teatro Nuovo Company, the Regional Dance Academy, the Teatro Nuovo School of Fine and Performing Arts, Choral Music and Musical Theatre and the Valentino Cinema. Though mainly used to stage musicals, it also hosts concerts, ballets and operettas. Open daily. www.teatronuovo.torino.it. Corso M. d’Azeglio, 17. T: 011 6500211. Off Map

Teatro Regio Located in the highly central Piazza Castello, Teatro Regio is the ‘grande’ dame of Turinese theatres. The venue was commissioned by Vittorio Amedeo II at the beginning of the 18th century and designed by Filippo Juvarra. The theatre’s history is inextricably linked to several of the world’s most illustrious musicians including Arturo Toscanini, Giacomo Puccini and Richard Strauss who conducted and staged their operas here. Today it presents an exciting international program of operas, ballets and concerts. Open Tues-Fri 10.30am-6pm; Sat 10.30am4pm. www.teatroregio.torino.it. Piazza Castello, 215. T: 011 8815557. Map F3

Piano35 Italy’s highest panoramic lounge bar is housed in the skyscraper designed by Renzo Piano to host the offices of the Intesa Sanpaolo bank. Here you can taste amazing cocktails created by multi-starred bar tender Mirko Turconi accompanied by an assortment of delectable finger food. The venue offers breathtaking views over a winter garden and the city of Turin. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-midnight. www.grattacielointesasanpaolo.com. Corso Inghilterra, 3. T: 0114387837. Map B4

APERITIVI Ballantine’s

Established in 1971, this was the first American Bar ever opened in Italy. A reference point in the centre of the city for aperitivi, it offers a great selection of wines and cocktails but also fresh fruity non-alcoholic drinks for teetotalers. Also a popular lunchtime spot. Open Mon-Sat 8am-noon; Sun 5pm-10pm. Corso G. Matteotti, 25. T: 011 5628849. Map D5

Beena This venue offers a delectable Indian-style apericena (more than an aperitivo and less than a dinner). Instead of a buffet, the menu includes a cocktail and seven appetizers, served at your table and cooked while you wait in a traditional Tandoori oven. A full immersion into the aromas and flavours of India.Open Tues-Sun 6pm-2am. www.beena.it. Via Lombroso, 22. T: 349 7078645. Map F7

La Drogheria Tucked away under the arcades of piazza Vittoria, La Drogheria is a stylish cocktail bar with an international feel. The atmosphere is just right and

MUSEO NAZIONALE DEL CINEMA Featuring a spectacular layout, this unique ‘vertical museum’, housed in the city’s landmark Mole Antonelliana, is dedicated to the history of cinema. In addition to a vast film library, the museum’s rich heritage includes collections dedicated to the archaeology of cinema, the ‘Aula del Tempio’, the ‘Macchina del Cinema’, the ‘Galleria dei Manifesti’ and the ‘Rampa’, offering a breathtaking view over the museum from above. www.museocinema.it

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MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

SIGHTSEEING |

The Torinese temple of football A compulsory stop for fans visiting Turin, and a destination that will captivate those not familiar with football: the Allianz Juventus Stadium is all this and more. By Giulia Minero

he Allianz Juventus Stadium is among the most avant-garde facilities in the world, and one of the architectural symbols of modern-day Turin. The stadium, inaugurated in 2011, was built on the site of the old Stadio delle Alpi, where the matches and derbies of Turin’s two teams, Torino F.C and Juventus F.C, were played. But it’s not just a stadium boasting a 41,500 spectator capacity. Hidden behind its large external structure, which features aluminium panels designed by designer Fabrizio Giugiaro, there’s an entire celebration of Juventus F.C.’s victories. Outside, near the stadium’s second tier, fans can admire the ‘Cammino delle stelle’, football’s version of Hollywood’s ‘Walk of Fame’, featuring 40 W H E R E T U R I N I O C TO B E R 2019

the names of famous footballers who have contributed to the success of the team. Inside, the Juventus Museum is dedicated to the 100-year history and triumphs of the Juventus Football Club, with displays of trophies, players’ jerseys, photographs, memorabilia and multimedia installations. Fans who’d like to take home a memento of this glorious team should head to the Stadium Megastore where they can purchase ‘Juve’ jerseys and official team merchandise. >> Allianz Juventus Stadium and J-Museum Corso Gaetano Scirea, 50. Off Map www.juventus.com

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Allianz Juventus Stadium Designed to host up to 41,507 spectators, the Allianz Stadium is the sixth largest stadium in Italy and the largest in Piedmont. Better known as the Juventus Stadium, it is owned by the Juventus Football Club whose home matches have been played here since 2011, the year when the facility was opened. One of the most avant-garde, ecocompatible facilities in the world, in addition to being one of the two architectural symbols of modern-day Turin, the Stadium is one of the city’s major hubs of tourist attraction. The complex also houses Area 12, a shopping mall featuring a hypermarket, shops and several restaurants. The J-Museum, the first official football museum of the ‘bianconera’ team is hosted inside the east area. www.juventus.com/it/stadium-e-museum. Corso Gaetano Scirea, 50. T: 899 999897. Off Map

Basilica di Superga Commissioned by Vittorio Amedeo II as a thanksgiving to the Virgin Mary for Turin’s deliverance from the French siege of 1706, the Basilica is one of the many masterpieces by architect Filippo Juvarra, who designed it according to the style of the era with a colonnaded portico, cloisters (the building still houses a friars’ convent) and a dome. Situated on one of the hills surrounding Turin and framed by the Alpine mountain range, the Basilica dominates the city and offers visitors a breathtaking view that is even more stunning when viewed from the top of the dome (131 steps). After visiting the tombs of the Savoy family, the Popes’ chamber and the royal apartments, you can walk around the building to see the memorial that pays tribute to the ‘Grande Torino’. In 1949, a plane carrying the entire Turin football team on their return from an away match crashed into the side of the church, killing all on board. Although the Basilica can be reached by car or public transport, one of the most picturesque ways of accessing it is by the Rack Tramway, an original 1934 tram which rattles the 3km up the hillside. Strada Basilica di Superga, 73. T: 011 8997456. Tramway: Piazza Modena, 6. Off Map

to the above, this must-visit museum offers a fabulous program of major exhibitions by Italian and international artists. The Art Library and the Photographic Archives of Turin’s Civic Museums are headquartered at GAM. Open Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. Closed on Monday. Museum full ticket price: €10. www.gamtorino.it. Via Magenta, 31. T: 011 4429518. Map C5

J-Museum (Juventus Museum) Located in the Allianz Stadium complex, in the northwestern area of Turin, the J-Museum is dedicated to the history and triumphs of the Juventus Football Club. Opened in 2012, it is one of the world’s best and most innovative sports museums. State-of the-art technology, memorabilia and an adrenalin-filled atmosphere offer fans a unique, memorable experience. By purchasing a combined Museum and Stadium Tour ticket you can also visit several areas of the Allianz Stadium that are generally off-limits to the public. Open from 16 September to 15 March, Mon-Fri 10.30am-6pm; SatSun and Holydays 10.30am-7.30pm. Closed on 25 December and every Tuesday (unless matchday). The ticket office closes one hours before the museum. Matchday opening hours: see official site. Full ticket price: €15. www.juventus.com/it/stadiume-museum. Via Druento 153. T: 011 4530486. Off Map

Lingotto This complex of cream coloured concrete and glass buildings, built in 1916, based on a project by Matté Trucco to house the FIAT factory (now FCA), still symbolizes the wealth of the city. Reconverted by Renzo Piano in the 1980s, it now hosts the pavilions of Lingotto Fiere, the headquarters of major events including Automotoretrò (www.automotoretro. it) and the International Book Fair; the ‘8 Gallery’

The headquarters of Turin’s Museum of Contemporary Art since 1984, the Castello di Rivoli, a masterpiece of Baroque art designed by Filippo Juvarra in 1718, is located outside the city, at the entrance to Val di Susa. The museum offers a rich collection of works documenting the latest artistic trends. Highlights include works by Sol Lewitt, Richard Long, Michelangelo Pistoletto, Transavanguardia, Maurizio Cattelan, Vanessa Beecroft, as well as new generation artists. Open Tues-Fri 10am-5pm, Sat-Sun 10am-7pm. Closed on Monday, 1 January, 1 May, 24-25 and 31 December. Full ticket price: €8.50. www.castellodirivoli.org. Piazza Mafalda di Savoia, Rivoli. T: 011 9565280. Off Map

GAM - Galleria Civica d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea GAM boasts an extraordinary collection of 45,000 works by renowned 19th and 20th-century Italian and European artists, including Balla, Severini Boccioni, De Chirico, Dix, Ernst and Klee. Highlights include paintings, sculptures, drawings, installations, videos and photos, plus one of the most important collections of video art. In addition

Mole Antonelliana The Mole has been an architectural landmark of the city since 1889. Named after its creator, architect Alessandro Antonelli, the Mole was purchased by the Municipality of Turin and made into a monument of national unity. At the time of its construction it was the highest brick building in Europe, standing at a height of 167 metres. Built according to eclectic 19th century architectural techniques, the Mole rises through layers of windows and pseudoGreek columns to a huge ribbed cupola and a needlelike spire. On the top, a twelve-pointed star is silhouetted against the Turinese skyline. Inside, a panoramic, glass elevator takes visitors on a ride through the roof of the museum’s vast atrium and up 85 metres inside the tower to the 360-degree observation platform at the top of the cupola. The view of Turin and its surrounding Alpine range is absolutely spectacular. Visitors can also access the panoramic deck on foot by climbing the 573 steps located inside the cavity of the cupola (by reservation from Monday to Friday, and without reservation on Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays). Since 2000, the Mole Antonelliana has hosted the National Museum of Cinema. Via Montebello, 20. T: 011 8138563. Map H4

Castello di Rivoli - Museo d’Arte Contemporanea

shopping mall, where you can admire the spiral ramp that leads to the autodrome (www.8gallery. it) and the ‘Pinacoteca Giovanni e Marella Agnelli’, a small art gallery packed with masterpieces. On exiting the Pinacoteca you can visit the rooftop test track and admire the ‘Bolla’, the bubble-shaped, blue glass meeting room. The old Carpano plants, lying adjacent to the Lingotto complex, are now occupied by ‘Eataly’s’ vast food market. (www.eataly. net). Lingotto: Via Nizza, 294. Off Map

PALAZZO CARIGNANO Built between 1679 and 1684 by Guarino Guarini, this impressive Baroque building in Piazza Carlo Alberto features a monumental, curvilinear terracotta façade that anticipates the layout of the interior spaces. The headquarters of the National Museum of the Italian Risorgimento has numerous historical treasures, including a highly specific library and two original parliament chambers. www.museorisorgimentotorino.it

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SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Musei Reali

Musei Reali A Savoy residence until 1865, Turin’s Royal Museums are one of the largest and most diverse museum complexes in Europe. The sheer size of the complex and collections housed therein easily rival those of other major European royal residences. A unique tour devoted to history, art and nature, comprising a 3km route of exhibition spaces and seven hectares of gardens.

ARMERIA REALE - More than 5,000 objects dating from the Prehistoric era to the 20th century, one of whose most important sections comprises an impressive collection of 16th century arms and amour. BIBLIOTECA REALE – One of the city’s most important cultural institutions, it houses over 200,000 books, antique maps, engravings and drawings, including Leonardo da Vinci’s famous ‘Self Portrait’. CAPPELLA DELLA SINDONE – Recently re-opened after a long and complex restoration, until the 1990s, the chapel, a Baroque masterpiece, housed the Sindone, now preserved in the Cathedral of Turin. GALLERIA SABAUDA - Spread over four levels of exhibition space, the gallery showcases approximately 500 masterpieces by Italian, Dutch, Flemish and European artists displayed in chronological order from the 14th to 20th centuries. GIARDINI REALI - Extending over approximately seven hectares of land, and located in the centre of the city, these beautiful gardens testify to the city’s history and former opulent splendour. Due to ongoing renovations, today only a portion of the garden are open for public viewing. MUSEO DI ANTICHITÀ - The most important archaeological finds unearthed in the city and throughout Piedmont are housed in the new underground space lying adjacent to the ruins of the Roman Theatre. PALAZZO REALE - Majestic staircases, lavishly decorated rooms, carved ceilings, stuccoes, delicately gilded furniture and frescoes. An impressive feat of significant artistic and architectural value, and the official residence of the Savoy family until 1865, the Royal Palace was expanded and changed thanks to the work of several of Turin’s most illustrious architects and artists between the 18th and 19th centuries. PALAZZO CHIABLESE - The rooms on the ground floor of Palazzo Chiablese, an 18th century building that, over the centuries, was used as a residence for members of the Savoy family, house the temporary exhibitions of the Royal Museums.

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In 2014, in-depth restorations allowed all the buildings in the complex, the Royal Palace, the Armoury, the Royal Library, the Archaeological Museum, the Savoy Gallery, Palazzo Chiablese and, lastly, the Royal Gardens to be connected. Visitors are now able enjoy a unique museum tour, comprising a 3km route spread over 30,000 sq.m. of exhibition space and 7 hectares of Royal Gardens. The origins of the Royal Museums date back to 1563, when Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy moved the capital from Chambéry to Turin. This marked the beginning of a major urban transformation and the enrichment of the dynastic collections, which now include artifacts dating from the prehistoric era to the present time. Between the 17th and 18th centuries, the appearance of the residence, with the imposing Royal Palace at its centre, was expanded and changed, thanks to the work of several of the era’s most illustrious architects. A Savoy Residence until 1865, the Royal Museums are now owned by the Italian government. On-site amenities include a food court in the former Regia Frutteria. www.museireali.beniculturali.it. Piazzetta Reale, 1. Map F3

Museo della Sindone Housed in the crypt of the church of SS. Sudario, this fascinating museum documents one of the most studied objects in human history: the Sindone, the famous ‘Holy Shroud’ a linen cloth which according to tradition Christ was wrapped in when deposed from the cross. The museum provides visitors with information about its provenance and history (from the second half of the 5th century when it became the property of the House of Savoy), as well as the various theories and mysteries surrounding it. Other highlights include the objects and paintings displayed during Public Ostensions (cyclical showings of the Shroud). Open daily 9am-Noon, 3pm-7pm. Full ticket price: €6. www.sindone.it/ museo. Chiesa del SS. Sudario, via San Domenico, 28. T: 011 4365832. Map E2

Museo Egizio Turin’s Egyptian Museum is the oldest Egyptian museum in the world and the second in terms of the value and quality of its treasures outside of Cairo. It was founded in 1824, when king Carlo Felice of Savoy purchased the collection from art expert Bernardino Drovetti. It is housed inside the historic Palazzo dell’Accademia delle Scienze, built in the 17th century by architect Guarino Guarini. In 2006, during Turin’s Winter Olympics, the museum was re-modelled by Oscar-winning set designer Dante Ferretti. The exhibition space is spread over five floors and houses more than 37,000 artifacts ranging from the Paleolithic to the Coptic era. The archaeologist and Egyptologist Jean-François Champollion once said: ‘the road to Memphis and Thebes passes through Turin’. Make sure to arm yourself with an audio guide: it’s free and enables you to tailor the itinerary of your visit according to your requirements. Open Tues-Sun 9am-6.30pm, Mon 9am-2pm. Full ticket price: €15. www.museoegizio.it. Via Accademia delle Scienze, 6. T: 011 4406903. Map F4

Museo Lavazza Lavazza is one of the most famous and oldest brands of Italian coffee. During its 120 years in the industry, it has marked the history of Italy’s coffee culture with advertisements and celebrities that have become an integral part of its public image. The museum uses a circular route to focus on its creative collaborations

and famous advertising campaigns and to explore everything related to Lavazza’s history and coffee production. In order to access the museum’s numerous interactive sections, visitors are provided with a Lavazza espresso cup at the entrance. This iconic object is designed to activate the installations and unlock multimedia content across the museum. Open Wed-Sun 10am-6pm (last admission 5.30pm). Closed on 15 August. Full ticket price: 10 €. museo. lavazza.com. Via Bologna, 32A. T: 011 2179621. Map H1

Museo Nazionale del Cinema The National Museum of Cinema, housed in the Mole Antonelliana, is one of the world’s most important film museums. Featuring a unique, vertical layout, this ‘temple of cinema’ spirals upwards through several exhibition levels, creating a spectacular display of its extraordinary collections through an evocative, interactive itinerary. In addition to a vast film library containing more than 7,000 titles, the museum offers collections dedicated to the archaeology of cinema, the ‘Aula del Tempio’ (Temple Room), the focal heart of the museum, with areas dedicated to the great genres of cinematic history. Don’t miss the ‘Rampa’ (the Ramp) which, like a movie, unfolds to reveal the dome, offering a breathtaking view over the museum from above, the ‘Macchina del Cinema’ (the Movie Machine), an area dedicated to the film industry and the ‘Galleria dei Manifesti’ (the Poster Gallery). Open 9am-8pm, Sat 9am11pm. Closed on Tues www.museocinema.it. Mole Antonelliana. Via Montebello, 20. T: 011 8138560-011 8138561. Map H4

OGR-Officine Grandi Riparazioni From a former rail repair workshop to a new hub of contemporary culture and innovation. Opened in 2017, following a major renovation, this majestic, late 19th century industrial complex in the heart of Turin has become a meeting place for contemporary culture. The venue hosts a rich program of exhibitions, performances, concerts – both classical and electronic – as well as events dedicated to theatre, dance and the performing arts. Other initiatives include workshops, start-ups and presentations. Open Thurs-Sun 11am-7pm; Fri 11am8pm. www.ogrtorino.it. Corso Castelfidardo, 22. T: 011 4365832. Map G4

Parco del Valentino Located on the banks of the River Po, this is the city’s largest and most popular park. Spread over a surface area of 550,000 sq.m, the park’s interior houses numerous treasures including the Castello del Valentino, a UNESCO world heritage site, now home to the Politecnico di Torino’s faculty of architecture; the Medieval Village and Castle, faithful 19th century reconstructions based on the model of Piedmont and Valdostano castles, and the Botanical Gardens, established in 1729 for educational purposes and open to the public since 1995. Tactile tours of the facility for blind or partially sighted visitors are also available. Starting from Ponte Umberto I, you can walk or cycle along the river, or stroll along the park’s paths. The park is always open, but the Castello del Valentino is not open to the public. The Botanical Gardens can be visited from mid-April to mid-October. Together with the Reggia di Venaria, Villa della Regina, Castello di Moncalieri, Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi and Castello di Rivoli, the Castello del Valentino is a part of

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont, a UNESCO world heritage site (www. residenzereali.it). The park sometimes hosts events such as ‘Terra Madre-Salone del Gusto’ (Mother Earth Tasting Festival www.salonedelgusto.com or the ‘Salone dell’Automobile’ (Turin Car Show) www.parcovalentino.com. Park: Corso Massimo D’Azeglio / Valentino Castle: Viale Mattioli, 39 / Town and Medieval Castle: Viale Virgilio, 107 / Botanical Gardens: Viale Mattioli, 25. Map G7

Museo Egizio

| SIGHTSEEING EDITOR’S TIP

Piazza San Carlo Also known as ‘the drawing room’ of the city, piazza San Carlo was commissioned by Marie Christine of France in true Parisian style. It is a rectangle of perfect proportions with an equestrian statue – the so-called ‘Caval’d Brons’ of Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy at its centre and on its southern side, facing the Porta Nuova Station, a twin pair of Baroque churches, San Carlo and Santa Christina. The former was built in 1639 based on a project by architect Amedeo di Castellamonte, while building on the latter began in 1619 (its façade was designed by Juvarra and dates back to 1715). Piazza San Carlo is flanked by seemingly endless elegant porticoes housing big-name fashion boutiques. The square is located in the middle of the partly pedestrianized arterial road of via Roma which, with its arcaded shops and cafés, connects the Station of Porta Nuova to piazza Castello. Piazza San Carlo is home to several of the city’s best-known cafés and pastry shops. Make sure to try the blends on offer at Caffè San Carlo, the pastries of Caffè Torino or the chocolates and candies of Stratta. Map F4

Pinacoteca Giovanni e Marella Agnelli Archistar Renzo Piano designed what he referred to as a ‘treasure trove’, a captivating space located on the rooftop of Turin’s Lingotto building, formerly the headquarters of the first Fiat (now FCA) automotive factory. This intimate gallery hosts a permanent exhibition showcasing the personal collection of late Fiat head Giovanni Agnelli and his wife Marella. Here you can admire a unique collection of seven paintings by Matisse, a 1913 painting by Balla dedicated to the theme of speed, as well as masterpieces by Severini, Modigliani and Tiepolo. The collection also includes works by Canaletto, Bellotto, Picasso, Renoir, Manet and Cano. Open Tues-Sun 10am-7pm (last entrance 6.15pm). Closed on Monday and on 24 and 25 December. Open 10am-3pm on 31 December and 3pm-7pm on 1 January. Full ticket price (Permanent Collection + Temporary Exhibition): €10. www. pinacoteca-agnelli.it. Entrance: Lingotto ‘8 Gallery’. Via Nizza, 230/103. T: 011 0062713. Off Map

Teatro Regio Commissioned by Vittorio Amedeo II and designed by Filippo Juvarra, the Teatro Regio was inaugurated in 1740. Destroyed by a fire in 1936, and rebuilt in 1973 by Turinese architect Carlo Mollino, the only part of the original building that still remains is its façade, now a UNESCO world heritage site. Its unusual gated access from Piazza Castello, a ‘bronze gate’ named Odissea Musicale (Musical Odyssey) is a work by famous artist-sculptor Umberto Mastroianni. The Regio is one of the most important Italian theatres on the European scene, and offers an action-packed program of opera, ballet, symphony concerts and other cultural activities. www.teatroregio.torino.it. Piazza Castello, 215. T: 011 88151. Map F3/G3

Have you heard of Jean-François Champollion? A French archaeologist and Egyptologist and the director of the Egyptian sector of the Louvre in Paris, he is the man who deciphered the mystery of hieroglyphics through the Rosetta Stone in 1822. It is also thanks to Champollion’s expertise that we owe the defining statement: “The road to Memphis and Thebes passes through Turin.” When mentioning Turin, he was referring to its unique and extraordinary Egyptian Museum, the world’s first Egyptian museum founded in 1824, the second in terms of the value and number of artifacts (around 40,000) outside of Cairo, and the eighth most widely visited museum in Italy. The British newspaper “The Times” listed it as one of the 50 best museums on the planet. Despite its longstanding history and historic

headquarters – the imposing Palazzo delle Accademia delle Scienze, dating back to the 17th century – the museum is extremely modern in terms of both its layout and immersive visitor experience. Remodelled by Oscar-winning set designer Dante Ferretti in 2015, the exhibition space was doubled, following massive renovations, and is now spread over four levels, three above ground and one below ground, organized in chronological order. Here you’ll find mummies, tombs, papyrus sheets and everything related to ancient Egypt (included embalmed animals) from the Paleolithic to the Coptic era. If you’re so overwhelmed that you don’t know where to begin your tour, get an audio guide. It’s free and allows you to choose and personalize your itinerary to suit individual requirements. A tip? The Restoration Area on the first floor that allows visitors to watch animal mummies being restored. >> Museo Egizio Via Accademia delle Scienze, 6. T: 011 4406903. Map F4 www.museoegizio.it

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ESSENTIALS

Turin, the city of the Alps The first capital of Italy, is a ‘drawing room city’ of elegant porticoes surrounded by green hills and, further afield, by majestic mountains. This is Turin, a city renowned for its history, culture and natural beauties.

urin was a Roman colony, the first capital of Italy and an industrial city. From its origins to the present time, Turin has had several different incarnations, each of which has left profound traces in its architecture and urban layout. Extending over a surface area of less than 150 square kilometers, crossed by the Po, the longest river in Italy, Turin is characterized by a checkerboard-like grid of streets that makes getting your bearings easy. One of the city’s most distinctive architectural features is its 18km of porticoes – mostly located in the city centre – which house shops and cafes. Its porticoes, originally designed to offer shade in the summer and shelter from the rain, snow, and sometimes the wind in winter, 44 W H E R E T U R I N I O C TO B E R 2019

and its elegant squares have given Turin the nickname of a ‘drawing room’ city. With the exception of a few streets in the centre, which are off-limits to traffic (including the Quadrilatero Romano and its shopping streets), the remainder of the city is open to traffic and most landmark attractions are easily accessible by car. However, beware of access regulation ‘ZTL Centrale’, which is active Mon-Fri, 7.30am-10.30am and prohibits the circulation of private vehicles and parking in the centre of the city. This restriction does not, however, apply to taxis or chauffer driven hired cars. As an alternative, you can use public transport to get around the city. These include buses, trams and the subway (metropolitana). The ‘metropolitana’, a fully automated subway

system, extends for 13.2km and only includes one line that connects the commune of Collegno to the Torino Porta Nuova railway station (the city’s main railway hub) and the Torino Porta Susa station, before reaching the Lingotto Fiere terminus. Turin boasts an enviable geographic position. It is surrounded by green hills that stand 715 metres above sea level, and which, in addition to their natural beauty, also offer numerous cultural and historical attractions. They can be reached in just a few minutes by public transport, the Sassi-Superga tram or car. Turin is also an ideal base to reach several of Europe’s most renowned ski resorts. It is therefore not surprising that the city is described as the ‘Capital of the Alps’.

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN

Emergency EUROPEAN EMERGENCY NUMBER: 112

112 is the unique European Emergency Number created to provide all European citizens with a single number: Ambulance, Firefighters, Police. If the caller does not know where he or she is, the operator will identify where the person making the call is physically located and will pass this information to the emergency services.

Caselle Airport Malpensa Airport

OPEN PHARMACIES

Farmacia Nizza (Via Nizza, 65. MM Nizza. T: 011 66992599). Open Mon-Sat 3pm-1pm, Sun 7:30pm-9am Farmacia Piazza Massaua (Piazza Massaua, 1/D. MM Massaua. T: 011 7793308). Open daily 24/24 Farmacia Comunale 42 (Via XX Settembre, 5. T: 011 543287). Open daily 24/24 Farmacia Comunale 25 (Porta Nuova Station. T: 011 542825). Open daily 7am-7.30pm. www.farmaciediturno.org PASSPORTS

Questura Centrale di Torino. Corso Vinzaglio, 10. T: 011 55881. www.questure.poliziadistato.it/ torino

Taxi In Italy taxis cannot be flagged down as they pass you along the street; they are stationed at special taxi parking stands in most of the major squares in any city or town and at the airport and can be requested by phone. Main taxi parking Via Nizza (Porta Nuova Station), Corso Bolzano (Porta Susa Station), Piazza Castello, Piazza CLN TAXI TORINO T: 011 5737 or 5730 www.taxitorino.it www.wetaxi.it: app available for iOS and Android, it has more than 1400 licensed taxi drivers. Taxi fares Taxi Torino doesn’t have a fixed taxi fares to the Caselle Airport; it provides a maximum fare of €34 on the Turin Caselle Airport section starting from the city ZTL, €39 starting from Torino Lingotto (plus baggage supplements and extra fee for night or holiday travel). If the amount on the taximeter is less than €34 or €39 you’ll pay the amount of the taximeter. To calculate the approximate fare of your taxi ride: www.wetaxi.it/taxitorino

Fast train network from Turin PORTA NUOVA & PORTA SUSA STATIONS

Turin offers fast-track access to major cities across Italy thanks to its high-speed trains: • Milan: 1 hour • Bologna: 2 hours 20 min • Florence: 2 hours 55 min • Venice: 3 hours 35 min • Rome: 4 hours 30 min • Naples: 5 hours 30 min. The most important railway station in Turin is Torino Porta Nuova, in the central Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 58; regional, interregional, highspeed and international trains arrive at and depart from there. Trains between Torino Porta Nuova and Milan stop at the Torino Porta Susa station, including TGV services between Paris and Milan and other services using the Turin–Milan high-speed line. TRENITALIA Railway Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com.

ITALO - Info T: 060708. Italo Assistance T: 892020.

www.italotreno.it.

Airports TORINO CASELLE “SANDRO PERTINI” TRN -

(16 km from the centre of Turin). The airport, at the North of Turin, is easily reachable in 25 minutes by car thanks to the Turin-Caselle motorway junction. The junction is connected directly to the Tangenziale Nord and to the Turin-Milan, Turin-Aosta and Turin-Bardonecchia motorways. Information desk T: 011 5676361-2. www.aeroportoditorino.it • Connections to the airport Sadem Shuttle service (www.sadem.it) from Porta Nuova Station (on the corner between Corso Vittorio Emanuele II and Via Sacchi). Every 15-30 min, travel time approx. 45’ (4.45am-11.30pm Mon-Sat; 5.30am-11pm Sun and holidays).

Tickets can be purchased on board (only cash payments allowed) or at several stores (a list is available on the website). One-way ticket: €6,50 - round trip ticket: €12. Sadem also provides a shuttle service from Turin to Milan Malpensa airport.

WHERE TIP With a Torino+Piemonte Card, you’ll only pay €5 for your ticket. Taxi Torino (more than 1400 licensed taxi drivers) T: 011 5737 or 5730 - www.taxitorino.it www.wetaxi. Taxi Torino doesn’t have a fixed taxi fares to the Caselle Airport; it provides a maximum fare of €34 on the Turin-Caselle Airport section starting from the city ZTL, €39 starting from Torino Lingotto (plus baggage supplements and extra fee for night or holiday travel).

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ESSENTIALS MILANO MALPENSA MXP .

The airport, at the East of Turin (135 km from the city centre), is reachable in 1 hour 30 minutes by car from Turin thanks to the A4 motorway. Information desk T: 02 232323. www.milanomalpensa-airport.com • Connections to the airport Sadem Shuttle service (www.sadem.it) from Porta Nuova Station provides a shuttle service also from Turin to Milano Malpensa airport. www.aeroportoditorino.it CUNEO LEVALDIGI CUF - (65 km from the centre

of Turin). Information T: 0172 741500 – 558. www. aeroporto.cuneo.it • Connections to the airport BMC Bus Shuttle service (www.bmcbus.it) available in connection from Turin with departure and arrival of flights. €8 each way, we recommend buy ticket online. www.aeroportocuneo.it

Getting around Turin GTT – Gruppo Torinese Trasporti/Local Public Transport Company - www.gtt.to.it Infoline Mon-Sat 6.30am-7.30pm. Green Line T: 800 019152; from mobile (Toll Number): T: 011 0672000. GTT Info Point and ticket - Railway Station Torino Porta Nuova, in front of the track 20. Mon-Fri 7.15am-7pm. Sat, Sun and holidays 9am-5pm. Lost and Found on GTT vehicles: The driver and GTT personnel are not allowed to return objects found on the vehicles directly. Lost articles found on GTT vehicles are taken to the Lost and Found of the City of Turin, where they can be collected after 48 hours from the time of loss. The lost and found office is in Via Meucci 4. Mon, Wed, Thurs, 9am-12am. T: 011 4430753. Purchase your ticket before you get on the bus or the tram. Ordinary ticket (€1.70) valid for 100 minutes on buses, trams or metro.

ZTL informations – Visitors traveling with their own car and staying in a hotel in the central area can enter the ZTL for the day of arrival and departure only, filling out a form at the hotel reception (ask your concierge for more information). In the same way it is possible to reach paid public parking areas within the ZTL by filling in the same parking lot with the request for transit authorization no later than 11am.

Tourist Information TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE – Piazza Carlo

Felice, in front of the Porta Nuova Station. T: 011 535181 Open daily 9am-1pm and 2pm-6pm. TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE – Piazza

Castello corner of Via Garibaldi. T: 011 535181. Open daily 9am-6pm.

Special Tours CITYSIGHTSEEING TORINO HOP ONHOP OFF

Hallmark red double-decker bus offering 3 routes: Line A to explore the city center and the hill; overlooking the Po with the Valentino Park, the village and the medieval fortress; Line B to access various sites including the Automobile Museum, the Lingotto, the Pinacoteca Agnelli, Eataly, the Olympic sites and the OGR-Officine Grandi Riparazioni; Line C for the Allianz Stadium, the Reggia di Venaria and the La Mandria Castle. Meeting point: at any bus stop. Assistance at Ticket Point City Sightseeing Torino (Piazza Castello corner of Via Po). 8 language commentary. Ticket valid 24h (48h if you combine 3 lines). Combo tickets for top Turin attractions are also available. www.city-sightseeing.it/en/turin

TORINO + PIEMONTE CARD

This card can be purchased online or at Turin’s Tourist Offices. With this pass you get free entry to Turin’s most important museums and exhibitions, castles, fortresses and the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont for 1*, 2, 3 or 5 consecutive days. It also offers reduced-price tickets to several other cultural sites in Piedmont, discounts on Turin’s main tourist services, plus other benefits. For more information www.turismotorino.org *The one-day pass is valid for a maximum of three entries to the Turin museum circuit.

48 W H E R E T U R I N I O C TO B E R 2019

Where Turin Magazine

[ O N LY AT P R E M I E R E H O T E L S ]

Bike Sharing [TO]BIKE - the bike sharing [TO]Bike service offers more than 140 stations scattered around the 5city STARS from which to pick up and deposit rental Allegroitalia Golden Palace – Via dell’Arcivescovado, 18 • bikes. Various subscription options are available: Map E4-5 €25, weekly €8 or daily €5. The use is free annual Grand HotelofSitea Via Carlo 35 • Map F5several for rides less–than 30Alberto, minutes, even Principi Piemonte UNA Esperienze Via P. Gobetti,for15by times di a day, after| which the rate–provided • your Map F5 subscription formula is applied by scaling 4the STARS amount from the credit on the card. To the service you–need to be credit Acaccess Hotel Torino by Marriott Via Bisalta, 11 •aOff Map card holder. For more information and70other types Art Hotel Boston Torino – Via A. Massena, • Off Map ofHotel subscription the website . Art Olympic –visit Via Verolengo, 19 • Offwww.tobike.it Map Green LineCrystal 800 548040. Store [TO]Bike Santa Best Western Palace Hotel – Via Nizza, 11Via • Map E6 Chiara, 26/f.Hotel Open Mon-Fri Best Western Luxor – Corso 10am-7pm. Stati Uniti, 7 • Map D6

Best Western Plus Executive Hotel and Suites – Via Nizza, 28

MOBIKE • Off Map – this ‘free floating’ system allows you to book a bike via a Genova smartphone App,14/B identify Best Western Plus Hotel – Via P. Sacchi, • Map E6 the position the bike Concord – Via G.L.ofLagrange, 47 •nearest Map F6 to you and then leave it in any authorized parking area in the city. Dinasty Suites – Piazza Carlo Felice, 7 • Map E5 Cost: 1 euro Diplomatic – Viadeposit, Cernaia, 42and • Map0.30 C3 euros every 30 minutes. moreTurin informations visit Double TreeFor by Hilton Lingotto – Via Nizza, 230 • www.mobike.com.

Off Map Duparc Contemporary Suites – Corso Massimo d’Azeglio, 21 • OFO – Ofo, the world largest station-free bike Off Map sharing company, has launched in Turin. Holiday Inn Turin City Centre – Via Assietta, 3 • Map D6 Operating across 180 cities worldwide, Ofo’s Hotel dei Pittori – Corso Regina Margherita, 57 • Map I3 mission is to provide a convenient, affordable Hotel Principe di Torino – Corso Moncalieri, 85 • Off Map and low carbon method of travel. Users can Lancaster Torino Corsoon Filippo Turati, 8 • Off Map to find download an–App their smartphone J nearby Hotel – Via Traves,and 40 •scan Off Map bikes the QR code located on Nh Collection Torino Piazza Carlina – Piazza Carlo Emanuele either the frame or smart lock to unlock them. II, 15The • Map G5 company’s yellow bikes have airless tyres Nh Centro – Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 104gear • Mapshift. B4 (toTorino prevent punctures) and a 3-speed Nh Torino0.20 Lingotto Congress Via Nizza, • Off0.30 Map euros Costs: euros for the–first half262 hour; Nh Santo Stefano – Via Porta F2-3 forTorino the second half hour; 0.50Palatina, euros 19 for• Map every 30 Novotel Torino Corso Giulio – Corso minutes thereafter andCesare 5 euros perGiulio day.Cesare, 338/34 • Off Map For more informations visit www.ita.ofo.com Pacific Hotel Fortino – Strada del Fortino, 36 • Off Map Starhotels Majestic Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 54 • Map E6 OBIKE - oBike is a –global leader in bike-sharing The Originals Hotel Turin Royal –anCorso Regina Margherita, without stations offering innovative service for• Off short 249 Mapdistance transport. The platform is currently 70 present 3 different continents for a TownHouse – Via XXon Settembre, 70 • Map F3 totalPalace of 26Hotel states and over 840 cities Turin – Via P. Sacchi, • Map E6 worldwide. The app, which can be4downloaded comfortably Victoria Torino – Via N. Costa, • Map F5 on Savoia your smartphone, users to locate Villa – Corso Sicilia, 1,allows angolo Corso Moncalieri • Offand Map rent bicycles using a completely innovative

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