WhereTraveler Venice — November 2019

Page 1

VENICE CITY GUIDE ®

NOVEMBER 2019

Deep in the soul of Venice Enjoy the city like a local

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ALL YOU CAN DO IN THE CITY Top events and places to be ITALIAN-STYLE GIFT GUIDE Our pick of the best seasonal trends

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SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS


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Venice November 2019 6

the guide

HOT DATES

22 SHOPPING

Michele De Fina's creations are an expression of supreme Venetian artisanship.

BAGARON C A M PA LT O

MESTRE

30 DINING

22

Regional recipes and creative pizzas in a unique location: a beautifully restored former glass factory in Murano.

SHOPPING

36 ENTERTAINMENT

Parco San Giuliano

SIGHTSEEING

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SCOAZZERA DE LA

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San Sebastiano

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Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

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CAL

TA

CALLE DELL'OLIO

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CALLE DE LA LACA

CAM

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CALL

CALLE

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CAL

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Rio dei Tolen

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Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola

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SAL

CALLE

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USE

ME

ND

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AM

IO

DEL

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CAL

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CA

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NA

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© lazyllama / Shutterstock.com

Where® reveals several fun facts about these two delectable treats, plus the places where you can sample them in the city.

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SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS

Several charming destinations in Veneto, infused with nature, history and art.

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The Venice Simplon Orient Express is the ideal solution for visitors who want to enjoy a trip back in time, in places of rare beauty.

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YOUR TRAVEL ING COMPANION SINCE 1936®

WELCOME TO ITALY

www.whereitalia.com/venice

ON THE TRAIL OF LEONARDO Dear Visitor, welcome to Italy! 2019 is the year in which Italy will be overflowing with celebrations marking the 500th anniversary of the death of Leonardo da Vinci, the man who more than any other represents Italy throughout the world. Andrea Jarach Several cities including Milan, Florence and Rome Publisher will host a series of special events. The full program Where ® of Italian exhibitions and events honouring Leonardo throughout 2019 can be found on the pages of Where®. We invite you to discover the country that gave life to the person considered the world over as one of history’s greatest thinkers. While visiting Italy you’ll understand why only Italy could have given birth to this man whose creative mind shaped the intellectual, social, cultural, and political facets of European life from the fifteenth century onwards. Leonardo made an indelible contribution to philosophy, nature, medicine and art. All that now remains is for us to look for the traces left by the enigmatic Leonardo. You’ll find them in whatever part of Italy you’re visiting. If you happen to find them, please share your comments, with your photo, on our social media. By the end of the year, we’d like to collect a gallery of the friends of Italy. Happy hunting!

PROEDI MEDIA  WHERE

Via Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano. T: 02 349951 - Fax 02 33107015 info@whereitalia.com www.whereitalia.com/venice PUBLISHER AND EDITORINCHIEF

Andrea Jarach (andrea.jarach@whereitalia.com) MANAGING DIRECTOR

Daniele Misrachi (daniele.misrachi@whereitalia.com) MANAGING EDITOR

Alessandra Finzi (redazione@whereitalia.com) CONTRIBUTORS

Carey Bernitz, Romena Brugnerotto, Simona P.K. Daviddi, Floriana di Maio, Elisabetta Giudici, Joy Lacanlale, Fabio Lancini, Giulia Minero, Elena Peverata, Chiara Zaccarelli ICONOGRAPHY

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Maria Granata (maria.granata@whereitalia.com)

“May you live in interesting times” The 58th International Art Exhibition is the major attraction in Venice for six months, occupying the city with monumental installations, inaugurations, exhibitions and a cornucopia of fringe events. The theme of this year’s edition, officially housed at the Giardini (Map I6) and Arsenale (Map H5) locations, is ‘May You Live In Interesting Times’. From 11 May to 24 November. www.labiennale.org

2 W H E R E V E N I C E I N O V E M B E R 2019

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Cristina Garbini (cristina.garbini@whereitalia.com) REG. TRIB. MILANO NO. 174, 28 JUNE 2016 EDITORE: PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL  ISCRIZIONE AL ROC N.2455 DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE BG

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Art Biennale

LA DAYST S

Last days to enjoy the most popular and widely visited Art Biennale on the planet (until 24 November). In Venice, people are rushing to see (and Instagram) the pavilions before the doors of the Giardini and Arsenale close until 2021. Here is our pick of must-sees. By Elena Peverata THE MOST CULTURED AND PICTURESQUE

For more info: www.labiennale.org 11 May-24 November

EXPLORE YOUR INTERIOR LANDSCAPE ▼ Don’t miss the explosive Chromo Sapiens at the Icelandic Pavilion. A warehouse on the Island of Giudecca has been transformed into a cavernous, multi-sensory chamber where colours, sounds and irresistible textures take visitors on an immersive journey into a psychedelic world. Among other things, this is also a good opportunity to visit the peaceful island of Giudecca, where you can immerse yourself in a less touristy, authentic Venetian atmosphere.

ICELAND. Chromo Sapiens. Giudecca 800

THE MOST BIZARRE

INSIDE A MASTERPIECE ▲ Named for the episode in the Gospel of St. Luke and the Parable of the Prodigal Son which teaches forgiveness, pity and compassion. The Russian Pavilion, curated by the State Hermitage Museum in St. Petersburg, is a complex theatrical setting, inspired by Rembrandt’s painting The Return of the Prodigal Son, the museum’s most important masterpiece. The work represents one of the Hermitage’s most famous rooms and an artist’s atelier, whose windows overlook the ‘turmoil and war surrounding the modern world’. In a separate area, a space inspired by Flemish painting is dedicated to the intricate mechanisms of the Winter Palace.

RUSSIA. Lc. 15:11-32. Giardini della Biennale, Castello

THE WINNER

THE BEACH OF MELANCHOLY VOICES It won the Golden Lion for the best national participation, it was the talk of the Biennale, and one of the pavilions that literally attracted droves of curious visitors. Sun & Sea (Marina), by artists Lina Lapelyte and Vaiva Grainyte and theatre director Rugile Barzdziukaite, stages an opera performance on an artificial beach populated by swimsuited men, women and children reading, playing and sunbathing while the public observes them. A troupe of actors sing melancholy songs, accompanied by music composed especially for the occasion. An absolute must-see before the 58th Biennale ends. LITHUANIA. Sun & Sea Performances every Wednesday and Saturday, at 10am and 6pm Edificio 42, Arsenale Marina Militare. Fondamenta Case Nuove 2738/C


[ SIGHTSEEING]

Top in town 1

BASILICA DI SAN MARCO This is the most important catholic church in the city. The original church dates back to before the year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. 4 PALAZZO DUCALE A masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, it features a number of different and intricate architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doge sit not only houses temporary exhibitions but can also be visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. 1 4 W H E R E V E N I C E I N O V E M B E R 2019

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CANAL GRANDE Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Grand Canal is the main waterway of Venice. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. Almost directly opposite the Piazza San Marco, where the Grand Canal empties into the lagoon, the Punta della Dogana former harbour stands at an important point. Today it hosts important collective or monographic exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault Collection. 6 PONTE DEI SOSPIRI A Baroque bridge that, by crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from which its

name derives are not those of lovers, but those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. 5 TEATRO LA FENICE Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only strongly associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it is also a stunning feat of architecture. PONTE DI RIALTO This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Originally built during medieval times as a


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pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto Market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. It includes as many as 120 steps. Witness to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it, but even more spectacular when seen from the water, perhaps aboard a gondola. 6 GALLERIE DELL’ACCADEMIA They host the most important collection of Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo and works by several important landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The monumental complex hosting these works occupies the ancient church of Santa Maria della Carità and a complex designed by Andrea Palladio in 1561.

SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO A rare gem of Venetian architecture, just steps from Campo San Manin: a combination of Renaissance, Gothic and Byzantine elements. The external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell of Palazzo Contarini is enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. 2 CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE DI SAN ROCCO A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures, including an impressive number of works by Tintoretto as well those by Tiepolo and Giorgione. 3

SAN GIORGIO MAGGIORE This small island is part of the panorama that can be enjoyed from St. Mark’s square and is part of the San Marco sestiere. The church of San Giorgio Maggiore is one of the masterpieces of Andrea Palladio. The monumental complex of the former Benedectine monastery (founded in the 10th century) is now home to the Cini Foundation arts centre hosting ‘Le Stanze del Vetro’ cultural project, devoted to the study and appreciation of 20th century Venetian glass art. LIDO DI VENEZIA The narrow strip of land that extends for a dozen kilometres in front of Venice, dividing the Lagoon from the Adriatic sea, is an island, a town with its own history and a natural reserve, but also a jet-setters’ paradise, with luxury hotels, the Palazzo del Cinema and exclusive Art Nouveau villas. The Lido offers beach lovers 15 km of fine sandy beaches, from the lighthouse of Punta Sabbioni to the picturesque town of Cavallino. In September, it becomes the world capital of cinema. THE GHETTO The Jewish ghetto of Venice, the first ever, was established in 1516. It is located in a secluded sestiere of Cannaregio. A walk through ‘calli’, ‘campi’ and ‘campielli’’ allows visitors to soak up a magical, cocoon-like atmosphere that brings to mind Shakespeare’s play the ‘Merchant of Venice’. Here you can admire ancient synagogues, the ‘tower houses’, the ‘schole’ and the workshops. THE ISLANDS Although the whole of Venice lies on an archipelago, an ‘excursion to the islands’ generally means a half-day cruise on a boat to visit the islands of Murano, Torcello or Burano, three charming, small islands, rich in history and tradition. Murano is famous throughout the world for its hand-blown glass (artisanal workshops still display glassmakers at work). Torcello, birthplace of the lagoon, once a thriving town with 8,000 inhabitants, is today a semi-rural island with only 17 permanent residents and two medieval churches that speak poignantly of past glories. Burano is one of the most photographed sights in the world, thanks to colourful houses reflected in its canals. It is also famous for its artisanal lace work and a particular kind of biscuit, which also resembles lace. 7 w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 5


WHERE NOW | HOT DATES

EXHIBITION

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FLEMISH TREASURES

The exhibition titled ‘From Titian to Rubens. SEPTEMBER MARCH Masterpieces from 2020 2019 Antwerp and other Flemish Collections’ at Palazzo Ducale treats visitors to a breathtaking sight: the magnificent Doge’s apartments decorated with the greatest masterpieces from the rich Flemish collections. In addition to canvases of inestimable worth by artists including Titian, Peter Paul Rubens, Anthony van Dyck and Michiel Sweerts, the exhibition showcases a dazzling array of sophisticated works. These masterpieces from Flemish collections are rarely lent, and some of them are being shown to the public for the first time. From Titian to Rubens. Masterpieces from Antwerp and other Flemish Collections. Palazzo Ducale - Appartamento del Doge, San Marco 1. www.visitmuve.it ) JAN DAVIDSZ DE HEEM, STILL LIFE WITH FRUITS, PRIVATE COLLECTION | COURTESY MUSÉE NATIONAL D'HISTOIRE ET D'ART LUXEMBOURG © PHOTO: MNHA | TOM LUCAS

6 W H E R E M I L A N I N O V E M B E R 2019


MORE ON WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/WHAT-TO-DO-VENICE

NOVEMBER

HOT DATES Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating Italian traditions, art and music or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates. BY ELENA PEVERATA

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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES ART

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PEGGY IN VENICE

PHOTO © TONY VACCARO / TONY VACCARO ARCHIVES

The Peggy Guggenheim Collection celebrates the Venetian life of its SEPTEMBER JANUARY founder, highlighting the 2019 2020 events and exhibitions that marked the thirty years she spent in Venice, from 1948 to 1979, which proved to be significant milestones in the history of 20th century art. Palazzo Venier dei Leoni will display the majority of works that Guggenheim purchased between 1938, when she opened her first gallery in London, and 1947, when she moved to Venice. A unique opportunity to see her historic collection, almost in its entirety, from Marcel Duchamp to Francis Bacon (see also page 43). Peggy Guggenheim. The Last Dogaressa Peggy Guggenheim Collection. Dorsoduro, 701. www.guggenheim-venice.it

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CONTEMPORARY ART

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DECEMBER

A COLLECTIVE EXHIBITION AT PUNTA DELLA DOGANA

‘Luogo e Segni’ takes its name from a painting by Carol Rama included in the exhibition and brings together over 100 works by thirty artists who have established a particular relationship with their urban, social, political, historic and intellectual context. The artists’ work, presented for the first time at Punta della Dogana (see page 43),, interact with several works that were formerly hosted at important exhibitions at this Venetian venue. In addition, the exhibit includes a rich program of events, performances and meetings open to the public. Luogo e Segni. Punta della Dogana. Dorsoduro, 2. www.palazzograssi.it PH © HASSELBLAD H3D

8 W H E R E V E N I C E I N O V E M B E R 2019

INTIMATE ATMOSPHERE

▼ Cellist and bassist Lars Danielsson is considered one of the most important artists on the European jazz scene. NOVEMBER Over the past few years, for his project titled 'Liberetto', Danielsson has mainly collaborated with pianists, including the rising star of piano Grégory Privat. On this occasion, the Swedish musician has chosen to feature Privat’s music in the duo’s most intimate version.

Venezia Jazz Festival Fall edition #2 Lars Danielsson plays Liberetto feat. Grégory Privat Sale Apollinee, Teatro La Fenice. San Fantin, 1965. www.teatrolafenice.it, www.venetojazz.com PH © WALLY PERUSSET


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CONTEMPORARY ART

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21ST CENTURY LONDON

▼ An exhibition focusing on London’s contemporary art OCTOBER MARCH scene. Fifteen young British 2020 2019 artists have been invited to exhibit a series of mostly unreleased works including paintings, sculptures, video art, installations, performances and site-specific productions. More than 40 works, specially commissioned for Ca’ Pesaro by curator Norman Rosenthal, more than 20 years after the worldwide success of Sensation, which revealed the talent of Damien Hirst’s Young British Artists (YBA).

BREATHLESS / London Art Now Galleria Internazionale d’Arte Moderna Ca’ Pesaro. Santa Croce, 2076. capesaro.visitmuve.it

DINING

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SUNDAY BRUNCH AT A MUSEUM

▲ One of the nicest things to do in Venice, that most people don’t know about, is breakfasting in the magnificent spaces of a museum, either on the banks of the Grand Canal or overlooking St. Mark’s Square. The cafeteria at Museo Correr, Palazzo Ducale, Ca' Rezzonico and Ca' Pesaro, is accessible to everyone – not just visitors to the museum – during museum opening hours. Every second and fourth Sunday of the month, visitors can enjoy a delicious brunch with a view over the Grand Canal and the charming indoor garden of Ca' Rezzonico, Venice’s 18th century museum. A must-try experience that is both unique and surprising!

NOVEMBER

Brunch at Ca’ Rezzonico Ca’ Rezzonico. Dorsoduro, 3136. carezzonico.visitmuve.it

DECEMBER 17-18 December Christmas Concert at St. Mark’s basilica The event is organized by Teatro La Fenice with the Cappella Marciana Soloists. 29, 30, 31 December and 1 January 2020 New Year’s Eve Concert 17th edition of the traditional Concert conducted by Myung-Whun Chung at the Teatro La Fenice JANUARY 2020 6 January Regata delle Befane A costumed race between members of the Bucintoro FEBRUARY 2020 8-25 February Carnival of Venice Shows, masked parades and music in ‘calli’, squares and palaces. One of the most thrilling open-air costume extravaganzas.

APRIL 2020 25 April Festa di San Marco or Feast of St. Mark In addition to being a national holiday, on this day Venetians also celebrate St. Mark, the patron saint of the city. MAY 2020 23-24 May Festa della Sensa or Ascension festivity A masked parade in St. Mark’s Square to celebrate the Serenissima and the ‘Sposalizio del Mare’ ceremony 23 May-29 November Biennale Architettura 2020 “How will we live together?” will be the theme of the 17th International Architecture Exhibition. 31 May Vogalonga 45th edition of the 30 km rowing marathon from the Northern lagoon to the islands: a colourful event open to both professionals and amateurs

JUNE 2020 23-28 June Feast of San Piero de Casteo JULY 2020 18 July Festa del Redentore / Feast of the Redeemer One of Venice’s best loved festivals, the event features a parade of boats in the Giudecca canals, and fireworks SEPTEMBER 2020 2-12 September International Exhibition of Cinematographic Art The 77th Venice International Film Festival is organized by La Biennale di Venezia, and runs at Lido di Venezia. 6 September Regata Storica /Historic Regatta One of Venice’s foremost rowing competitions, it is preceded by a spectacular parade of historic 16th century craft. w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 9


WHERE NOW | INSIDER TIPS

Coffee and chocolate

10 W H E R E V E N I C E I N O V E M B E R 2019

Cafè Florian PH © MARC DE TOLLENAERE


Did you know that it’s thanks to the Venetians that cafés exist today? What’s more, at the time of the Serenissima, as a sign of affection, the Venetians would send trays laden with chocolate and coffee to friends or lovers. We’ll tell you about this and other fun facts related to these two delectable treats, plus the places where you can sample them in the city. BY CHIARA ZACCARELLI

Torrefazione Cannaregio

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ot everyone knows that the history of coffee in Europe began in the city of Venice, and not, as you might think, in Naples. Credit for the discovery of one of the most widely drunk beverages in the world goes to Venetian merchants who, while following the maritime routes that connected the East to Venice and Naples in the 16th century, were the first people to bring coffee to the lagoon. At the beginning of the 1600s in Venice, the price of coffee was so high that only wealthy people could afford to buy it. Coffee was thought to have the same miraculous properties as medicine, including guaranteeing the ability to stay awake. Around the end of the century, instead of only being sold in pharmacies, coffee began to be sold at coffee shops. The year 1683 marked an event of enormous historic importance for the city: the opening of the first coffee shop in St. Mark’s Square. In 1763, the fashion of coffee had become so widespread that the lagoon city boasted as many as 218 locales. To understand the social and cultural role played by these places in Venetian society in 1700, you need only read the famous comedy titled ‘La bottega del caffè (‘The Coffee Shop’), written and staged by illustrious playwright Carlo Goldoni in 1750. In the comedy, Goldoni skillfully portrays a picture of the city’s 18th century bourgeois society, based on reality. In the centuries that followed, the fame of Venetian cafés attracted artists

and intellectuals from all over the world including Ugo Foscolo, Gabriele D’Annunzio, Charles Dickens, Lord Byron, Goethe and Amedeo Modigliani. Cafés continue to be an institution in Venice. Not only are they charming, timeless places, but also a visible testament to centuries of culture, good taste and sophistication. Below you’ll find our pick of must-visits.

The most beautiful café in the world

St. Mark´s square is the most beautiful square in the world and Florian´s is the most beautiful café in the square, so I am drinking my coffee in the most beautiful place in the world.” Founded in 1720, from the time that it opened, this elegant café was patronized by a prestigious clientele including noblemen, politicians and intellectuals like Carlo Goldoni, Giacomo Casanova and Gabriele D'Annunzio. Its architecture, the result of renovations and makeovers, its richly decorated rooms and its 19th century interiors, still make it a magical, timeless place where you can enjoy an

These words by Austrian writer Karl Hernold are a perfect introduction to the historic Cafè Florian in St. Mark’s Square. “Europe is the most beautiful part of the World and Italy is the most beautiful part of Europe, Venice is the most beautiful part of Italy.

Cafè Florian

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HISTORIC COFFEE HOUSE From Stendhal to Wagner, Proust and Woody Allen, Gran Caffè Quadri has always been a lively place to stop for a coffee. Here, guests who enjoy the outdoor seating in St. Mark’s Square can select from a large, illustrated menu featuring everything from Italian coffee drinks to cocktails or breakfast pastries to Venetian bar snacks called cicchetti and gelato.

Viziovirtù

espresso at one of its tables while listening to the soothing notes of an orchestra playing in the background. A glamourous place to stop and refuel (www.caffeflorian.com). St. Mark’s Square is also home to the Gran Caffè Quadri, another historic café which has occupied a prime space among the square’s many locales since 1775. A real piece of Venetian history, over time it has attracted actors and directors attending the Venice Film Festival, including Woody Allen. Located opposite one another in what has been described as the ‘living room of Europe’, there has always been a certain rivalry between the Florian and the Quadri which, still today, compete for Venice’s tourist trade with their coffee, spritzes and live music. Today, thanks to the passion of multi-starred chefs Massimiliano and Raffaele Alajmo, the Quadri has found the incentive to revamp its image, so that each guest is able to experience a feeling of not only having stepped back in time, but also of finding themselves in a revitalized locale, updated to comply with the criteria 12 W H E R E V E N I C E I N O V E M B E R 2019

of contemporary quality and service. However, the Quadri is not the only Venetian creation of the Alajmos, who also run the Amo cafè at the recently renovated T Fondaco dei Tedeschi, DFS’s temple of shopping. With its well-spaced banquettes, designed to ensure the utmost privacy and allow guests to relax and converse freely, it is a must-visit destination for true lovers of coffee, thanks to its wide selection of worldclass blends. In addition to coffee, it also serves some of the world’s finest teas and infusions, plus a fabulous selection of pastries and bite-sized cakes, including yellow croissants filled with turmeric cream, gianduja-flavoured muffins made with extra virgin olive oil as well as an interesting assortment of savoury delicacies (www.alajmo.it). Hemp sacks scattered over the floor, exposed beams, Venetians drinking coffee at its counter and the aroma of toasted coffee beans. You’ll find this and more at Torrefazione Cannaregio, in the Cannaregio district, which has been serving coffee to gondoliers, artists and intellectuals since 1930. Besides espresso, make sure to try its ‘basi in gondola’, a re-interpretation of the more famous ‘bacio di dama’, enriched with a touch of Cafè Remer which enhances its delicate flavour. You can also purchase one of its delectable blends to take home (www.torrefazionecannaregio.it). Venice’s San Polo district is home to the Caffè del Doge. Established as a small roastery near the Rialto bridge, today it is a cosmopolitan locale which has retained all of its original artisanal characteristics in-tact. A paradise for coffee lovers from all over the

Dal Mas world, the beans are roasted according to the instructions of its founder, who developed his own method. Specialty blends include the Doge Rosso (100% Arabica) and the Doge Nero, a base of Arabica coffees from plantations in Central America and the Caribbean, combined with an Indian washed Robusta coffee (www.caffedeldoge.com).

The food of the Gods

At the time of the Serenissima, it was customary for Venetians to show friends and lovers their affection by sending them trays laden with chocolate and coffee. Today, Venice boasts numerous artisanal chocolate shops where you can purchase a gift for your loved ones or simply recharge your batteries with a cup of hot chocolate, especially now that the weather’s colder.


At Viziovirtù, between Rialto and St. Mark’s Square, where Marco Polo lived and where spices, coffee and powdered cocoa were sold, you can stop and sample the so-called beverage of the gods. Established in 2005, this artisanal chocolatier promises to satisfy even the most discerning palates. Its windows are always beautifully decorated with chocolate sculptures, would-be pastry chefs can learn how to make tantalizing mousses and truffles but, above all, you can taste chocolate bars, pralines, creams, dragées, candied fruit, hot chocolate and the establishment’s ‘Goldoni hot chocolate’, prepared without milk or sugar (www.viziovirtu.com). Located in Cannaregio, in a strategic position, just a short walk from the Santa Lucia railway station, the Dal Mas chocolate shop attracts chocolate lovers with its window display. A family-run business, it offers a triumph of ‘chocolatey’ specialties including mousses,

mini-Sacher tortes, macarons, cannoli, ganaches and pralines made with chocolate from famous French chocolatier Valrhona. If you’re still not satisfied, pop in at the adjoining Dal Mas pastry shop next door, where you’ll be inebriated by the heady aroma of croissants, pan dei Dogi, biscuits and homemade cakes (www.dalmaspasticceria.it). Lastly, the historic Pasticceria e Cioccolateria Petteno in Mestre, a small city located on the mainland, just a few kilometers from Venice, is well worth a visit. Dino Pettenò, a maitre chocolatier who learnt the trade in Belgium to which he emigrated at the age of 18, owns two shops in the city. Here, amidst chocolate bars with different cocoa percentages, pralines filled with dried fruit, liqueurs, spices and flowers, bite-sized pastries and chocolate cakes, you’ll be spoilt for choice (www.pasticceriapetteno.it).

VENETIAN COFFEE 'When in Rome, do as the Romans do!' How could Venice not have its own signature coffee? Venetian coffee is a tastier variation of ‘caffè corretto’, literally coffee corrected with the addition of whisky or brandy, enhanced with a dollop of fresh whipped cream and a sprinkling of dark, grated chocolate. Easy to prepare, it’s perfect at the end of a meal as a substitute for dessert and even better if accompanied by small Venetian biscuits. A great way to warm the cockles of your heart on cold winter evenings.

Raffaele and Massimiliano Alajmo

The tea ritual Although the tea ritual is not as widespread in Italy as it is in Anglo-Saxon countries, Venice boasts a few places that are well worth a visit. If you’re looking for somewhere special to have tea, a go-to place between October and March is the Oriental Bar at the Hotel Metropole on the Riva degli Schiavoni. In addition to a warm, welcoming atmosphere infused with the aroma of spices, the bar at this charming hotel offers a great selection of blends signed by Dammann Frères - including the exceptional Himalaya Shangri-La white tea from Nepal further enhanced by professional, luxury 5-star service. A visit to the Metropole is also a great opportunity to view the owner’s magnificent

collection of antique objet d’art: you’ll be totally spellbound! (www.hotelmetropole.com) In the sestriere of Dorsoduro, you’ll find Ca’ Fujiyama, a tea room whose name instantly conjures up images of Japan. While sitting in one of its two rooms, or in the garden at the back, you’ll feel as if you’ve been catapulted into the Land of the Rising Sun rather than being in Venice. Its menu features more than 50 varieties of tea (in particular, Asian teas but not only). Besides trying them all, you can also purchase blends and various tea-making accessories. If you’re a fan of matcha tea, you’ll be pleased to know that the establishment also serves an excellent matcha cappuccino. Fujiyama is also a B&B with four bedrooms (fujiyama.life/it).

Oriental Bar

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WHERE NOW | SHOPPING

GIFT

MARINA RINALDI

Drop earrings in wood, metal and marine blue enamel. Their meticulously chosen shapes, colours and materials are designed to add a touch of chic to this season’s ensembles. it.marinarinaldi.com

GUIDE Take advantage of a stroll through the picturesque ‘calli’ of Venice to treat yourself to some alluring detail of style. Where guarantees that you won’t leave empty-handed! ®

GUCCI

The Maison has reworked the classic belt bag in a shape that is reminiscent of the popular 1990s style, in GG red velvet. Codes of the House, including the Web stripe and Double G brass hardware, further enrich the style. www.gucci.com

▲ BORSALINO This artisanally crafted wide-brimmed ‘Anello Herringbone’ in brushed felt is one of the accessories of the F/W 201920 collection. A line that expresses a late 19th century glamour, an era when the hat was transformed from a necessity into an item of beauty. www.borsalino.com

▲ DIOR A must-have for autumn, ‘Rouge Blush’ gives cheeks intense and ultra-pigmented colour, while ‘Diorshow Liquid Mono’, the first Dior eyeliner-eyeshadow, perfectly combines extreme hold and remarkable lightness in a next generation fluid texture. www.dior.com

MIU MIU

▲ TOD'S Crafted in an elegant scuba-effect fabric with Nubuck inserts, Tod’s elegant sneaker is characterized by a side monogram and rubber outsole with embossed rubber pebbles. www.tods.com

Available in 13 colours, the ‘Miu Confidential’ shoulder bag in lambskin with a matelassé motif is an object of desire for Miuccia Prada fans. www.miumiu.com

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WHERE NOW | EXPERIENCE

gondola

All about the


8 different types of wood, gondolas are constructed in boat yards called ‘squeri’ by gondola builders – the ‘squeraroli’ and ‘maestri d’ascia’ (masters of the ax) – who have been in this line of work since the 11th century.

Private gondolas no longer exist and the last person who owned one was art heiress Peggy Guggenheim.

Every gondola is 11 metres long, 1.40 metres wide and 0.65 metres high. The oar is made of beech and the ‘forcola’, the stylized

oarlock, is made of walnut. Eight kinds of different wood are used to build a gondola – oak, elm, lime, larch, fir, cherry, walnut, and mahogany. The only parts in metal are the ‘ferro’ in the front and the ‘risso’ at the back. It’s not easy to become a professional − gondolier. Requirements include attending a special school, passing a public competition set by the ‘Ente Gondola’ and being apprenticed to a professional gondolier for 6 to 12 months. The final step includes passing a rigorous practical exam. Traditionally, only men were allowed to − be gondoliers. The first female gondolier

– or gondoliera – was licensed in 2010. Giorgia Boscolo, the daughter of 40-year gondolier veteran, was the first to pass the requirements and obtain a license. One of the few remaining ‘squeri’ still − operating today in Venice is located in the sestiere of Dorsoduro near San Trovaso (see photo), between the Accademia and the Zattere. The building housing the ‘squero’ resembles a typical mountain chalet because, traditionally, gondola builders came from the Veneto mountains of Cadore. Following its construction, the gondola is lowered into the water via a slide – a celebratory moment (www.squerosantrovaso.com).

PH © JAVARMAN / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Everyone knows that the gondola is − Venice’s most typical craft: made from


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a wooden bridge in 1181, known as the ‘Ponte della Moneta’ both due to the toll that people had to pay when crossing it and because the city’s mint was located at its easternmost end. In 1250, its wooden piles were replaced by a mobile structure and its name was changed to the Rialto bridge. A dark period followed. In fact, during this time, the bridge collapsed and was damaged several times. It was only in 1588 that the Senate of the Serenissima decided to announce a competition to finally rebuild a stone bridge. Numerous renowned architects submitted their projects, including Sansovino, Vignola and Palladio. However the daring but scenically impact-making design submitted by the aptly named Antonio da Ponte was chosen. His bridge consisted of a single 22 meter stone arch span, supported by a broad rectangular deck carrying two arcades of shops and ‘botteghe’ fronting on three roadways. Legend has it that da Ponte was visited by Satan himself who, in exchange for his help, asked the architect to pledge the soul of the first person crossing the bridge to him. The architect thought that he would trick Satan by having a cock cross the bridge for the first time. However, on learning about this deception, Satan vindicated himself by tricking da Ponte’s pregnant wife into crossing the bridge. Her child was stillborn, and according to legend, his soul wandered haplessly, for years, on the Rialto bridge, until a gondolier finally helped it to cross over to the other side. Even the famous street market boasts a storied past. In fact, historic documents testify to its presence way back in 1097

T Fondaco dei Tedeschi by DFS when it was much larger than its current counterpart and sold exotic goods and spices and precious fabrics. THE FAMOUS MARKET. Currently Venice’s market par excellence, it is divided into the Pescaria, where fish caught in the lagoon are sold, and the Erbaria, whose vendors sell only the freshest, seasonal fruit and vegetables. Although a visit to this market means elbowing one’s way among throngs of Venetian shoppers, the market nevertheless boasts two gems of historic and artistic interest: a loggia dating back to 1907 featuring a blaze of maritime and symbolic decorations, including a number of esoteric

elements that are mixed in with the fish, lobsters and octopi sculpted on the capitals of its colonnade. More attentive visitors will also notice a marble plaque embedded in one of its red brick facades, which shows regulations set centuries ago for minimum allowable sizes for lagoon fish. FOR SHOPPING ADDICTS. However, Rialto also means shopping. While strolling through the ‘rione’s’ tiny streets or when crossing its bridge, you’ll come across several unusual shops that are imbued with the atmosphere of a bygone era. These include antique shops, artisans’ workshops, old book binding shops where books are still bound according to time-honoured tradition, and jewelry stores selling original creations made from Murano glass beads. On the other hand, those in search of an amazing experience, should head to the old post office which now houses the T Fondaco dei Tedeschi by DFS, a lavish, high-end department store and a magnificent feat of architecture that has been updated to brilliantly balance the old with new. The building boasts a marvelous terrace offering visitors a 360-degree view over Venice.

A HUB OF COMMERCE The Rialto Bridge is the dividing line between the districts of San Marco and San Polo. It is lined on both sides by shops, and includes 120 steps. Left, the Rialto Market, a one-of-a-kind place crowded with Venetians and tourists. w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 19


WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN

The allure of the region Veneto is one of the most visited regions in Europe and offers several attractive destinations for a fun, relaxing out-of-town experience. The cities are well connected by train but as an alternative you can either hire a car or a car with a driver. BY ROMENA BRUGNEROTTO

Half an hour by train from Venice Treviso: the city is a small gem, which can be visited entirely on foot. Lying at the heart of the city, just a stone’s throw from the station, Piazza dei Signori is the ideal spot to stop and enjoy either a local Proseccobased aperitivo, or a light lunch. The area’s neighbouring streets are packed with elegant shops, cut across by pretty canals offering lots of fabulous photo opportunities. Both the city’s Casa dei Carraresi and the Santa Caterina museum host important art exhibitions. While in the area, make sure to sample radicchio di Treviso, a homegrown specialty. A go-to destination for a snack is the Osteria dalla Gigia, Via Barberia, 20, whose signature dish is ‘mozzarelle in carrozza’, a type of fried cheese sandwich. Padua: home to one of the oldest universities in the world, Padua is a city deserving an entire day’s sightseeing. Among the list of things to do, top sights include the Scrovegni Chapel, Giotto’s masterpiece, but also the famous Church of Sant’Antonio, a pilgrimage site and the burial place of St Anthony of Padua (1193–1231). The city is also home to the oldest botanical garden in the world, planted in 1545 by Padua’s

Bassano del Grappa

Padua, Scrovegni Chapel 20 W H E R E V E N I C E I N O V E M B E R 2019

A UNIQUE BLEND OF HISTORY AND ART Top. The wooden bridge over the River Brenta is a symbol of the small town of Bassano del Grappa: rebuilt many times but always remaining faithful to Palladio’s 16th century original. Left, Giotto’s magnificent frescoes, covering the walls of Padua's Scrovegni Chapel, narrate events in the lives of the Virgin Mary and Christ. Above, Juliet’s house, with its famous balcony. Right, the beautiful castle of Miramare (10 km from Trieste) offers a charming panoramic view.

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Verona


University medical faculty to study the medicinal properties of rare plants. A new area dedicated to bio-diversity was also recently added, opening up new prospects for the future. In terms of gastronomy, local specialties include a variety of cold cuts and the city’s signature ‘gallina padovana’ which you can taste at the Ai Navigli restaurant in Via Riviera Tiso, 11. La Folperia in Piazza della Frutta is an absolute must for an aperitivo. It’s a simple kiosk selling local fish specialties and the king of street food par excellence. One hour by train from Venice Vicenza: if you’re a fan of Renaissance architecture, take a train and head to Vicenza. Its main square houses the famous basilica designed by Andrea Palladio, the most important architect of the High Renaissance. The entire life of the city revolves around the Basilica. Palladio also designed the city’s renowned Teatro Olimpico. This Renaissance marvel is well worth a visit or, failing that, a ticket to one of the many live shows performed here. Stop at a restaurant and sample the city’s famous ‘Baccalà alla Vicentina’ (Vicenza-style codfish) served with polenta. The people of Vicenza are so proud of this dish that the city even has a confraternity dedicated to keeping the 500-year-old recipe of ‘Baccalà alla Vicentina’ alive, and, believe it or not, there is also a codfish ice cream flavour. The go-to address is El Coq in Piazza dei Signori, where the chef enjoys creating innovative dishes using this important ingredient of Veneto cuisine.

TOWARDS VIENNA WITH THE NEW “SPIRIT OF VENICE” While air travel to North America has increased (in May 2017 American Airlines inaugurated a direct route from Venice to Chicago), rail travel to Europe has also grown. One of the best ways to enjoy spectacular panoramic Alpine views is by train. For the past few months it’s been possible to travel from Venice to Austria by train with two daily connections, thanks to OBB, an Austrian railway company. The new Railjet “The Spirit of Venice” connects Venice to the Austrian cities of Villach, Klagenfurt and Vienna safely and comfortably. Amenities include on board Wi-Fi, and there's a top notch dining car for first class passengers. The trip to Vienna lasts eight hours and you can enjoy the changing scenery from the Italian plains to the Austrian Alps. www.obb-italia.com

Trieste, Castle of Miramare Verona: Founded by the Romans in the 1st century AD, the city of Verona is dotted with pretty palazzi, elegant squares and medieval gems. Best-known as home to star-crossed lovers Romeo and Juliet, its major attractions include the Arena, an architectural remnant of the Roman era, and a venue for the city’s annual summer opera festival, the beautiful Castelvecchio Museum and piazza delle Erbe. There are so many churches to see that you’ll be spoilt for choice. No visit would be complete without stopping to see San Zeno, a masterpiece of Italian Romanesque style. When you’re tired of sightseeing, indulge in a break at one of the city’s small ‘osterie’ for a glass of Valpolicella, the famous wine produced just a short distance from here. Before leaving Verona, make sure to head to pasticceria Flego in Piazza Borsari 9, to purchase a box of ‘Baci di Giulietta’, the city’s signature sweet treats made from almonds and walnuts. Bassano del Grappa: this picturesque town lying at the foot of the mountains is renowned for its namesake spirit, grappa. Its Palladian covered wooden bridge over the River Brenta is a highlight of the small historic centre. Also known at the Ponte Vecchio or the Ponte Alpini, it serves as a reminder of the events that took place during World War I. The city is also famous for its centuries-old production of handcrafted ceramics that you can purchase at one of the town’s many shops. While in the area, make sure to book a guided tour of one of the distilleries that produce grappa, Italy’s ‘acquavite’ of choice. One of the most famous is Poli. Located in via Gamba 6, this renowned distillery also boasts a must-visit Grappa Museum. At the end of the tour, guests will be treated to a tasting session, accompanied by sweet or savoury snacks. Opened in

December 2010, and located at number 8 Salita Ferracina, Palazzo delle Misture is the ideal spot for a pre or post-dinner drink. In addition to an excellent selection of local wines, the venue also features an entire room dedicated to absinth, where you can taste historical brands dating from the late 1800s to the early 1900s. Two hours by train from Venice Trieste: just a two-hour train ride from Venice, the city of Trieste is a must-visit destination. The port and its architecture, reminiscent of central European cities, blend to create an elegant, captivating backdrop. When visiting Trieste you can remain in the centre and stroll through its picturesque alleys, or head to Miramare, the beautiful castle built in the late 1850s by Archiduke Maximilian, brother of Austrian Emperor Franz Joseph. Sitting on a rocky outcrop overlooking the sea, both the castle – whose interior décor has remained intact – and the park are well worth a visit. A ride on the Opicina tram which connects the centre of Trieste with the village of Villa Opicina in the hills above is definitely unmissable. Inaugurated in 1902, the 'tram de Opicina' (as it’s known in the local dialect) climbs up five kilometers, including 800 meters on a 26% incline, across splendid landscapes and with wonderful views of the gulf. This is a unique opportunity to take some wonderful photos. Trieste is the Mediterranean's main coffee port, and it's also a hub for the coffee industry. In fact, the city is home to Illy, one of the world’s best-known coffee brands. Countless locales bear witness to the city’s history, and, if you head to Piazza Unità d’Italia you can choose your favourite. The best place for an aperitivo is Urbanis, in Piazza della Borsa 15. In addition to other symbols, the venue’s mosaic flooring features the Bora, the wind that blows over Trieste. w w w.wh e re tr ave l e r. com 21


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Borsa N.o 5

Bags born in Venice Traditional craftsmanship and a careful selection of materials are just some of the components that make Michele De Fina’s creations an expression of supreme Venetian artisanship. By Giulia Minero

22 W H E R E V E N I C E I N O V E M B E R 2019

14 colourways, that can be matched with the designer’s wallets, belts and exquisite scarves. The brand’s best sellers include Borsa N.o 1 and Borsa N.o 5 characterized by their minimalist lines and their single top handle, making them easy to carry on your shoulder. Lovers of the most exclusive accessories will be seduced by the Argento Collection whose creations – all unique pieces – are created using exotic skins including crocodile, python, alligator and ostrich, defined by a numbered silver plate certifying their uniqueness. >> Flagship Store Michele de Fina San Marco 1822 – Frezzaria T: 041 5220664. Map F4 www.micheledefina.com

Borsa N.o 1

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ocated just steps from St. Mark’s Square, you’ll find a charming shop where the history and allure of Venice merge with the most authentic artisanal leather goods, influencing their style and giving life to bags embodying a truly Venetian spirit. Since 2014, the Michele De Fina boutique has built a reputation for creating exquisite leather bags, resulting from the creativity of its founder Michele De Fina. The bags are all handsewn according to traditional techniques by Venetian artisans and created using only the highest quality skins that transform each bag into a unique piece. The collection comprises 7 bag styles, all sharing the same elegant, sophisticated style and the same attention to detail, available in different sizes and


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/VENICE

The

Guidelines ACCESSORIES

This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. MAP LOCATIONS Note that references in bold at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 46-47. TRANSPORTReferences to vaporetto lines and stops are based on departure from the Santa Lucia railway station. SHOPPING Shopping hours are generally from

10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Venice) and on Monday mornings. Ask your concierge. Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.

»

TAXFREE SHOPPING

By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund. UnionPay Service Hotline: 00 800 800 95516 e-mail: europe@unionpayintl.com

UnionPay is an international bankcard association based in China and serves the world’s largest cardholder base. With more than 7 billion cards issued worldwide, UnionPay has become the mayor payment method of the outbound Chinese. By March 2018, almost 600,000 merchants in Italy accept UnionPay card for payment, among which 7,000 merchants are located in Venice. This allows hundred of thousands of affluent Chinese customers to shop with their favourite cards. UnionPay also actively work with famous retail groups, such as DFS Group, Airport dutyfree shops, to provide special discount or services for UnionPay cardholders. DINING

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30€ or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. SIGHTSEEING

Information about our selection of museums and monuments is checked as carefully as possible. However, opening hours and site accessibility are subject to change depending on the time of the year. Ask your concierge.

Anatema Rossana Righini delights customers with her scarves, brooches, costume jewelry, bags, hats and silk, handmade ties. Her windows and display cases express the owner’s philosophy: “The culture of beauty, the magic of elegance”. Anatema also stocks small Murano glass jewelry. Open daily 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. www.anatema.it. San Polo, 2603. T: 041 5242221. Vaporetto line 1 or 2(San Tomà stop). Map D4

Francis Model Stylish, high-quality bags with a focus on colour. Established in 1965, this small artisanal ‘bottega’ has always remained faithful to the diktats of Made in Italy craftsmanship. Located just steps from the Rialto Bridge, Ruggero De Zorzi devotes himself to his craft with pride and passion. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.francismodel.it. San Polo, 773/A (Ruga Ravano). T: 041 5212889. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato stop). Map E3

Giuliana Longo A milliner boasting a longstanding family tradition dating back to the early 20th century, Giuliana Longo’s fame has spread far beyond the boundaries of Venice, thanks to her unique Venetian aesthetic. Her shop is the dream hat-cupboard of any true sartorialist, amidst old-world furnishings, original panama hats and handmade headgear. PASSION TIP The only shop in town where you can find authentic gondolier’s hats. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.giulianalongo.com. San Marco, 4813 (Calle del Lovo). T: 041 5226454. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Giovanna Zanella For the past ten years, Venetian designercobbler Giovanna Zanella has been creating exclusive lines of shoes for men and women at her workshop located just a stone’s throw from the Rialto Bridge. Each pair is endowed with its own, unrepeatable personality because they are often enhanced by a surprise element. Open Mon-Sat 1.30pm-8pm. www.giovannazanella.it. Castello, 5641 (Calle near Campo San Lio). T: 041 5235500. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Macrì This shoe boutique in San Marco - its other branch is located in Frezzeria - has been a reference point for discerning Venetians since the 1970s. Its owner Jacopo Nobili sells sought-after, classic men and women’s shoes, distinguished by their Made in Italy aesthetic. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco, 420 (Calle Larga). T: 041 522 9956. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco stop) Map F4 • Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco Frezzeria, 1583. T: 041 522 8997.

Michele De Fina Highly select leather bags, its owner oversees each stage of the working process from the cutting of the leather to the end creation. Craftsmanship and Italian style are the hallmark traits of Venetian bag designer Michele De Fina. Open daily 10am-1pm/2pm7pm. www.micheledefina.com. San Marco, 1822 (Frezzaria). T: 041 5220664. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop or San Zaccaria stop).

Tax Free Refund Guide 1. VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a value added tax on goods and services, and is part of the European Union’s value added tax system. 2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a VAT refund. This refund does not cover the services supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies. 3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: • you are a non EU resident; • the goods purchased are intended for personal or family use only and are carried in your luggage; • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds 154,94 Euro (VAT included); • the purchase is certified by an invoice. This invoice should include a description of the goods purchased, your personal information as well as the details of your passport or any other equivalent document; • the goods leave EU territory by the end of the third month after the month that you bought them; • several specific customs formalities are complied with; • the invoice is returned to the Italian retailer within four months after the purchase was made. 4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must be shown at the customs exit point when leaving EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items into your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs BEFORE checking in). 5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return the original invoice, regularly endorsed by the customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice must be returned within four months from the date when the document was issued. 6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian retailer (however, make sure that the shop you’ve chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax Free” sign in its window). 7. Several Tax-Free companies are able to offer immediate VAT cash refunds when the goods leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating the passenger from having to return the invoice to the retailer). However, this procedure only applies at major international airports or main border crossings. Most major department stores have Tax Free Refund offices. 8. The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply the payment of a small administrative sum which is directly deducted from the amount of VAT refunded to the traveller. 9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund within a reasonable period of time, he or she should re-contact the Italian retailer or one of the aforementioned companies. 10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded directly by customs offices. Source: www.adm.gov.it/portale/ee/citizen/vta-refund

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[ FA SHION DESIGNERS]

Top Brands DEPARTMENT STORES T FONDACO DEI TEDESCHI BY DFS Tfondaco.com Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge) T: 041 3142000. Map F3

ALBERTA FERRETTIwww.albertaferretti.com San Marco, 295/296. T: 041 5220772. Map F4 BALENCIAGA www.balenciaga.com San Marco, 1310 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5230806. Map F5 BALLYwww.bally.it San Marco, 4919-4921 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5285839. Map F4 BOGGI MILANOwww.boggi.com San Marco, 1744 (Bacino Orseolo). T: 041 2960321. Map E4 • Stazione Santa Lucia (Fondamenta S. Lucia, 20). T: 041 5246445. Map C3 BORSALINOwww.borsalino.com San Marco, 4822 (Calle del Lovo). T: 041 2411945. Map F4 BOTTEGA VENETAwww.bottegaveneta. com San Marco, 1473 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5228489. Map F5 www.bulgari.com. San Marco, BULGARIwww.bulgari.com. 1494. T: 041 2410553. Map F4 BURBERRYit.burberry.com San Marco, 2308 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 240291. Map E5 CARTIERwww.cartier.it San Marco, 1474/1475 (Calle San Moisè). T: 041 8842511. Map F4 CELINEwww.celine.com San Marco, 1312 a/b (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201898. Map F4 CHANEL www.chanel.com San Marco, 2070 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2405399. Map E5 CHANEL FRAGRANCE & BEAUTY San Marco, 1254/1300. T: 041 2708699. Map F3 CHURCH’Swww.church-footwear.com San Marco, 1316 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2410147. Map F5 CLARKS— www.clarks.eu. Cannaregio, 5586 (Salizada S. Canzian). Map F3 T: 041 5229946. DAMIANI www.damiani.com San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Map F5 DIOR www.dior.com San Marco, 1255 (Calle Larga de l’Ascension). T: 041 2411636. Map F5 24 W H E R E V E N I C E I N O V E M B E R 2019

DOLCE&GABBANA www.dolcegabbana.it San Marco, 2188 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5209991. Map F4 ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA www.zegna.com Bocca di Piazza San Marco, 1241. T: 041 5221204. Map F4 ETROwww.etro.com. San Marco, 1340 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5232599. Map F5 FENDIwww.fendi.com. San Marco, 1582 (Calle Frezzaria). T: 041 2778532. Map F4 FRATELLI ROSSETTI www.fratellirossetti.com Campo San Salvador, 4800. T: 041 5230571. Map F4 • San Marco, 1477 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5220819. Map F5 FURLAwww.furla.com. San Marco, 4833 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 2770460.Map F4 GIORGIO ARMANIwww.armani.com San Marco, 2282 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 8503048. Map F4 GUCCIwww.gucci.com San Marco, 2102 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2413968. Map F4 • San Marco, 258 (Mercerie dell'Orologio). T: 041 5229119. Map E5 HERMÈSitaly.hermes.com San Marco, 1292 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2410715. Map F5 HUGO BOSSwww.hugoboss.com Piazza San Marco, 80 (Bacino Orseolo 1218). T: 041 5224378. Map F4 JIMMY CHOOwww.jimmychoo.com San Marco, 1289. T: 041 5224510. Map F4 LORO PIANAwww.loropiana.com San Marco Ascensione, 1301. T: 041 2770695. Map F5

Smooth leather, stiletto ankle boot by GIORGIO ARMANI featuring triangular side cutouts and suede inserts that create an elegant criss-cross pattern.

MONCLERwww.moncler.com San Marco, 2088 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2960605. Map E5 PRADAwww.prada.com San Marco, 1464/1469 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5283966. Map F5 ROBERTO CAVALLI www.robertocavalli.com. San Marco, 1314. T: 041 5299020. Map F5 ROCCA 1794 www.rocca1794.com Piazza San Marco, 125. T: 041 5201014. Map F4 SAINT LAURENTwww.ysl.com San Marco, 1302. T: 041 5202211. Map F4 • San marco 2217 (Calle Larga XXII marzo). T: 041 8923010. Map F5 SALVADORIwww.salvadori-venezia.com Diamond Atelier. Piazza S. Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Map F4 • Diamond Atelier Cannaregio. Cannaregio, 2342. T: 041 5243211. Map D2 • Rolex Boutique. Piazza S. Marco, 44. T: 041 2602313. Map F4 • Panerai Boutique. Piazza S. Marco, 47. T: 041 5200899. Map F4 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO www.ferragamo.com San Marco, 2098 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2778509. Map E5 SWAROVSKIwww.swarovski.com San Marco, 5039 (Marzarieta 2 aprile). T: 041 5210618. Map F4

LOUIS VUITTONwww.louisvuitton.com Piazza San Marco, 1345. T: 041 5224500. Map F5

SWATCHwww.swatch.com San Marco, 5022 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5228532. Map F4

MAX MARAit.maxmara.com San Marco, 5033 (Rialto). T: 041 5226688. Map F5

TIFFANY & CO.www.tiffany.it San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Map F5

MISSONI www.missoni.com San Marco, 1318/A (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5205733. Map F5

TOD’Swww.tods.com San Marco, 2251 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5206603. Map E5

MIU MIUwww.miumiu.com San Marco, 1471 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 8106066. Map F5

VERSACEwww.versace.com San Marco, 1462 (Campo San Moisè). T: 041 5200057. Map F5


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LE maps Vand views of Venice and engravings by 18th 12.30pm/4.30pm-7.30pm. San Marco, 2013 ND TER À BA O LT IS O RBA FRU RAMO century Venetian masters. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am(Calle delle Veste, near the Teatro La Fenice). TA R IO DEL M CORTE DEL ORA L POZETO 12.30pm/3.30pm-7pm; Sat 10.30am-12.30pm. T: 041 5235359. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria DE ORO Antichi Splendori CAMPIELLO FO DE LA MADONNA www.lineadacqua.it.San Marco 3717/d (Calle del Giglio or San Marco stop). Map E5 Devoted to the ongoing search for objet d’art Ca' Pesaro N S D CAMPIELLO CAMPIELLO A Santa Sofia della Mandola). T: 041 5224030. Vaporetto line RA alleria Internazionale and antiques, the mission of Tthis highly qualified VALMARANA DEL PESTRIN DA CA Ca’ Nova L C O RT E LE 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4 San Lazzaro NO d'Arte Moderna antique dealer is to keep the interest in V AR VA IS Boasting over 40 years in the industry, Ca' B ATA G I A Ca’ D’Oro CO CORTE dei Mendicanti authentic masterpieces alive. Its San Lio-based CORTESE CAMPIELLO Tessitura Luigi Bevilacqua Nova which means ‘new house’, has decorated STELLA CORTE NOVA store in Venice offers a careful selection of the Artisanal weavers specializing in the production several of Venice’s most elegant homes with Santi Apostoli city’s artistic treasures, with a particular focus ofCAMPIELLO exquisite, decorative fabrics for furnishings its upholstery fabrics.CAMPIELLO Wallpaper, curtains, WIDMANN CAL TI OZ GAB LE on antique jewelry, Murano glass from the 11th DELLA CASON Cà d'Oro R IE ZI L ITIP A unique place! and curtains. PASSION tablecloths and hand-woven sheets. Open to 20th centuries and paintings of Venetian S.Canciano Ospedale Since 1875, the company has practiced the SS. art Giovann Mon-Fri 9am-12.30pm/3pm-7.30pm; Sat 9amCAMPIELLO Chiesa Evangelica N landscapes. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-7pm. SAN CANCIANO D R IO C A L L AN E M of weaving original looms that once belonged L E on 12.30pm. www.canovatessutitendaggi.com. San Luterana ID S C UO W LE Castello, 5545 (Salizada S. Lio) T: 041 5239265. E LL to the Venetian School of Silk. Open Mon-Fri Marco, 4264/a (Campo San Luca). T: 041 5203834. CA CAMPO info@antichisplendori.com. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 S.MARIA NOVA 9.30am-4pm (Sat-Sun by appointment). Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4 CAMPO DELLA CAL LE (Rialto stop). Map F4 San Cassiano LAR PESCARIA GA N ZI A N www.luigi-bevilacqua.com. Santa Croce 1320. G. G N CA A S A A D L L IN A Le Zoie S A LI ZA Santa Maria RI T: 041 721566. Vaporetto line 1 (Riva de Biasio Antichità San Samuele CAMPO O Dwith Basilica dei E Michele Dal Bon’s atelier is infused SAN CASSAN CAMPO DE LA I M dei Miracoli stop). Map D3 An antiques dealer since the Seventies, IR BECARIE San Giovanni Santi Giovanni e Paolo AC shop PASSION TIP This eclectic CA personality. C A LL O LL E LI CAMPO Silvana Vianello is renowned for her research CAMPO DEL ED FO R Grisostomo CA EC NO CESARE BATTISTI CAL LL showcase rare antique watches and jewelry but A’ LE C ED MU SANTI GIOVANNI GIÀ AST San and expertise in the field. PASSION TIP EL ELL TI DELLA I A BO also specializes in collections that are unlikely to Teatro Malibran E PAOLO BELLA VIENNA TA Samuele specializes in religious antiques, with CAMPO CA LL E DE LE be found elsewhere, including objects inspired SAN GIACOMETO Chiesa dell’Ospe ER BE a particular focus on sculptures dating from the C CORTE SECONDA DE AM by ancient ‘theriaca’, a medical concoction L PIE San Giacomo DEL MILION CARAMPANE SA L 18th centuries. Open: Mon-Sat 13th through NS LO Al Duca d'Aosta BA RB AR ON di3130 Rialtoalso known as Venice treacle. Open Tues-Sat IA DE LE DE I TO 10am-12.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. San Marco, LE CA Casa di www.lezoie.com. Originally established in Venice in 1902, Al Duca 9.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. RA MP O (Calle delle Botteghe). T: 041 5204900. Vaporetto CAMPO AN CAMPIELLO E Marco Polo RIALTO d’Aosta now boasts stores in six cities across the San Polo, 1566 (Calle dei Boteri) T: 041 2758694. SOL Samuele stop). Map E4 Fontego NUOVO line 2DEL (San Triveneto region: Venice, Padua, Verona, Mestre, Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). dei Tedeschi O AN V A Treviso and Udine. The historical four-storey CA Map E3 Antichità Zanutto C LR LLE . DE Sant’Aponal E D L FO DEL C .M TA NTE A RT P IO GO MB IN E ContinuingRUGaHElongstanding family tradition, Ponte O Venice location features over 100 top fashion NG OD SA CAL . PA L N G FO LE G SA L E brands for men and women, CAMPO CORTE IA Zd’Acqua carefully selected CAMPO N in IOVNDA Libreria Antiquaria Linea CORTE LIZ the 1970s, Vincenzo Zanutto chose San di Rialto ZO AN ME DO TREVISAN ZA CAMPO DEL NI NT ER SAN APONAL SAN BORTOLOMIO DA LA A LP DEL VOLTO PRESTRIN TE P E to offer its clientele quality and elegance. These Antique books and priceless prints IO RA Marco to open his workshop specializing in D CAMPO focusing NO X E L L SAN LIO CA Rialto include casual men’s lines for a sporty-chic look, primarily on preservation and authentic antique paintings, with a particular focus on CAMPIELLO PIELLO San Silvestro CAMPO SANTA MARIA SAL DEI DE sartorial designs for savvy-style gentlemen and FORMOSA bookbinding methods. PASSION TIPIZ A D A S A Venetian artists. Also offers evaluations and FONDAMENTA SAN SILVESTRO C. D LONI N L EL G IO DEI PRETI ALIAcentury illustrated books, women’s wear, featuring the iconic accessories CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO ZZO certified appraisals. Open Mon-Sat Fontego 10.30am- CALLE Specializes in 18th Santa Maria

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Eredi Jovon A celebrated Venetian jeweler since 1934, and the owner of one of the few remaining historical shops on the Rialto bridge, Eredi Jovon is famous for its hand-carved Italian shell and blue agate cameos, set in silver or gold, and available at factory prices or on special offer. The shop is also renowned for its beautiful coral, Murano glass and ISOLA LA GRAZIA blackamoor jewelry. High quality, superior craftsmanship and its wide assortment of cameos and customized coral jewelry allow Eredi Jovon to satisfy the individual tastes of even the most discerning customers. WHERE TIP On request, Eredi Jovon creates customized portrait cameos based on photos or digital files. Thanks to an efficient e-commerce service, all creations can be ordered online and shipped worldwide. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.eredijovon.com. Ponte di Rialto, 5325. T: 041 5228979 Map F4

26 W H E R E V E N I C E I N O V E M B E R 2019

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Piedàterre Tucked away under an arcade just steps from the Rialto bridge is a tiny boutique with an astonishing selection of handmade slippers, where Alessandra and Renato make and sell colourful ‘furlane’ (slippers), handcrafted with recycled bicycle-tyre treads, ideal for finding your footing on a gondola. Their creations are available in coloured velvet, brocade, printed fabrics or recycled shirting, provided byISOLA their customers. Highly original SAN CLEMENTE and absolutely unmissable! Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.piedaterre-venice.com. San Polo, 60 (Ruga Rialto, Sotoportego dei Oresi). T: 041 5285513. Map E3

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La Bottega dei Mascareri The workshop of the Boldrin brothers specializes in the crafting of a variety of papier mache Venetian masks, including jesters, elves and characters from the G I dell’Arte’ U D E for C aCtripAback into 18th century ‘Commedia Venice. The Mascareri have also worked for the theatre, the cinemas and fashion shows, and are considered Santissimo Redentore among several of the most established manufacturers Santa Croce of collector’s items. They were the first mask makers to embellish their masks with decorations by Tiepolo. Open daily 9am-6pm. www.mascarer.com. San Polo, 80. Hundertwasser' Garden T: 041 5223857 and San Polo, 2720. T: 041 5242887. Map E3 FON

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SHOPPING One of the purest expressions of Venetian craftsmanship, the ‘Michele’ mask in papier-mâché by CA' MACANA is entirely handmade according to age-old techniques.

of the latest collections, including small leather goods and bijoux, for a glamorous, cosmopolitan aesthetic. The store offers numerous special facilities and services for its customers, including a Personal Shopping service and Tax Free Shopping. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.alducadaosta.com. San Marco, 4945. T: 041 5220733. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Marina Rinaldi Renowned for its tasteful, plus-size apparel for fashionable women, Marina Rinaldi offers a wide range of collections, featuring both contemporary and classic lines that are updated on a seasonal basis. These include dresses, jackets, coats, bags, accessories for a total look that exudes class and elegance. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun and festivities 11am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm. it.marinarinaldi.com. San Marco, 5028 (Merceria San Salvador). T: 041 2770064. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Pot-Pourrì Three exclusive boutiques set against the magnificent backdrop of Palazzo Regina Vittoria in the heart of Venice. Pot-Pourrì carries clothing and fashion accessories for him and her, artisanal Made-in-Italy collections and a selection of international brands, skillfully mixed with the flair for which the brand is renowned. Couture dresses, handcrafted accessories and knitwear woven in cashmere, silk and natural fibers. The boutiques also stock a selection of accessories and homeware inspired by a classical contemporary aesthetic including knick-knacks and objet d’art for the home, bathroom and table (also ideal for wedding gift lists). Private boat landing stage. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.potpourri.it. Womenswear: San Marco, 1810 (Ramo dei Fuseri) - T: 041 2410990. Menswear: 1811/m (Ramo dei Fuseri) - T: 041 5221332. Homewares: San Marco, 1820/m (Frezzeria) - T: 041 5201996. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 San Marco Vallaresso stop Map E4

DEPARTMENT STORES T Fondaco dei Tedeschi by DFS The recently renovated 16th century building that extends over 7000 sqm is a luxury shopping, food and cultural destination. Surrounding a central courtyard, the store offers the best in leading Italian and international fashion brands, accessories, jewellery and watches, wines and spirits, beauty and fragrances, food and a rich selection of local gifts. Don’t miss the specially curated cultural program on the 4th floor and the breathtaking view from the roof terrace. In partnership with Premier Tax Free, the store will also offer an instant detax at the cash desk when the payment is made by credit card, the first of this kind in Europe. Open daily 10am-8.30pm. www.TFondaco.com. Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge). T: 041 3142000. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3

FASHION OUTLETS Noventa di Piave Designer Outlet With more than 150 stores, cafés and restaurants, visitors can find their favourite labels with price reductions of up to 70%, all year round, and further discounts at the annual summer and winter sales. From iconic fashion brands like Prada, Gucci, Armani, Fendi, Jil Sander and Paul Smith to sporting labels, like Nike and X-Bionic, and high-street favourites, like Guess and Desigual. Easy to reach from Venice via the shuttle service (available twice a day from “Venezia Tronchetto”, Mestre and Marghera), it offers endless entertainment, from the children’s adventure play area to restaurants and cafés and even an annual summer music festival. Facilities: ATM cash machine, cafés, restaurants, kids play area, baby-changing rooms, free parking, store map and guides, multilingual customer service, wheelchair accessible, free Wi-Fi, personal shopper (on request with extra charge), dogs admitted to the outlet village (admission in stores depending on the store policy), Tax Refund for Non-EU citizens and Currency Exchange on-site agency. Open daily 10am8pm. www.mcarthurglen.com. Via Marco Polo, 1 (Noventa di Piave, 30 minutes from Venice). T: 0421 5741. Off Map

Palmanova Outlet Village Just one hour from Venice, Palmanova Outlet Village offers 90 stores with the trendiest brands discounted by up to 70% and open all year around: Adidas-Reebok, Aldo Bruè, Baldinini, Alberta Ferretti-Moschino, Calvin Klein, Fedon, Iceberg, Ixos-Malloni, Nike, Piquadro, Pollini and many others. Tax refund for Non-EU citizens. In addition to shopping, Palmanova Outlet Village makes you discover a land full of history and taste: the picturesque hills of the Collio region, the landscapes of Friuli’s Dolomites and the Alps, close to the Karst plateau with the historical sites of the Great War and the star-shaped city of Palmanova, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Open daily 10am-8pm. www.palmanovaoutlet.it. Take the A4 highway Venezia-Trieste and exit at Palmanova. Infoline: T: 0432 837810. Off Map

solutions, including its ‘a lunette d’illusione’ setting designed to highlight the brilliance of its stones. www.damiani.com. San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Nardi Venezia A combination of a love of precious stones and a passion for the art of goldsmithery make Nardi’s jewelry rare accessories to be worn or collected, the epitome of sheer Venetian elegance. Open daily 10am-6.30pm. www.nardi-venezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 69. T: 041 5225733. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F5

Sizing Women clothes IT

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JEWELRY & WATCHES Audemars Piguet A must-visit stopover for luxury watch lovers. A purveyor of classic watches since 1875, Audemars Piguet is the place to go for elegant timepieces, made to the very highest standards. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-6.30pm. www.audemarspiguet.com. Piazza San Marco, 18. T: 041 5285519. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Damiani A reference point in the world of highend jewelry, Damiani is renowned for its unmistakable style and innovative technical

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PHOTO © PAWEL HORAZY/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

ARTISTIC GLASS IN MURANO

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ENTA

Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto

CORTE TREVISAN

REMER

CALLE

DEL CALLE

MOISE’

SA PISCINA

XXII MARZO

DE LE

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

CALLE

CALLE DEL FIGHER

CALLE

BALONI

CAPPELLO BIANCA CALLE

SAN ZZA

San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti

Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo

Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo

CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

FORNO

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

TASCA

CORTE DEL FORNO

C.DEI

O DEL

GALIZZI

STURION

DEI

DEL

CINQUE

C.

PISCINA

LA CHIESA

DRIO

LARGA

CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

G. GALLINA

DEL

DE LE ERBE

COCCO

DEI

CALLE

CALLE

TOSCANA

CALLE

Palazzo Genovese

San Gregorio

RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO

LARGA

CALLE

O MUSSATO CALLE

ZULIAN

CORTE TORRETTA

LE VIGNOLE

FONDAM

CORTE NOVA

CALLE GABRIELI

DRIO CALLE LE SCUOLE

CALLE

CALLE

LIO

San Giuliano

SAN

PIGNOLI

Palazzo Pisani Gritti

CALLE DEL BASTION

FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

DEL FORNO

FONDAMENTA

CORTE CORTESE

CAMPIELLO STELLA

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

CASTELLI

PIOMBO

D. PALLE

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

SAN

LUCATELLO MARZARIA DEI

BERLENDIS

VARISCO

CALLE

CALLE DEL C.MARTINENGO

LICINI

MEZO

C.

VENEZIA

CALLE

O

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN

CALLE

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

MIRACOLI

SALIZADA

CORTE

RUBBI

DE

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

Spirito Santo CALLE

DEI LAVRANERI

San Gerardo CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

DEI

GIAZZO

C. LARGA

CORTE

CALLE

CAPITELLO

CORTE GRAGOLINA

GALLO

Bacino Orseolo

NOVE

CALLE

DE

DONZELA

le

LA

TODESCHI

Cana

CALLE

DE

C. DEI

BIAGIO

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

C O RT E B ATA G I A

WIDMANN

CALLE

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

CAMPO

DE LA FAVA

CALICE

DEL

TAGIAPIERA

BALOTE

GRAGOLINA LE COLONNE DE

STRAZZE TERÀ RIO

CALLE CAMPO SAN GALLO

E

CASTELLO

C.

nde Canal Gra

S. SAMUELE

PESTRIN

CALLE

CORTE MICHIEL

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

Santa Maria del Giglio

CHIESA

CALLE DEL NAVARO

SANTO

RAMO

S.Canciano

RIO

Teatro Malibran

GALIAZZO

C. DEL

SALVADOR

MARZARIA

CORTE C.DEL TRAMONTIN

LE

DELLE

SAN

Teatro la Fenice

DELLA

SALIZADA

SPIRITO

FRUTARIOL

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

SAN CANZIAN

CAMPO SAN LIO

C. DEL

SAN

C.DE

C.

C.

FRUTARIOL

DEL

FREZZERIA

BOTERI

SESTIERE

ORESI

DEL

CAOTORTA

Santa Maria del Giglio

Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim

CALLE

CALLE CAPPUZZI

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

DE

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

SABION

MAGAZEN

DEL

CALLE

San Fantin

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

Canal Grande

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

ALLO

LUCA SAN CALLE

CALLE

X

CORTE DEL

MARZARIA

San Salvador

TEATRO DEL CALLE

LOCANDE

San Maurizio

CAMPO PISANI

CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

ZATTERE

DEI

PISCINA

CROSERA

Santo Stefano

FALIER

San Vidal

FONDAMENTA

BARBA

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

FONTEGO

PIO

TEATRO

CALLE ASSASSINI

PONTE

SACCA SAN

DEI

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

C. DEL

SALIZZADA

MAZZINI CORTE

SAN SALVADOR

CORTE DEL

Palazzo Nervi Scattolin

PATERNIN

MANDOLA

TERÀ

RIO

FONDAMENT

LARGA

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto

Rialto

LARGA

SAN CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

TRAGHETTO

BOTEGHE

CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

Palazzo Loredan

CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

CAL

TERÀ

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

San Giacomo di Rialto

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

CALLE

TEATRO

MARCO

CAFETIER

CALLE

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

CORTE DEL REMER

RIO

SALIZADA

San Giovanni Grisostomo

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

CAMPO MANIN

DEL

DEL

VENIER

CALLE

RAVANO

San Silvestro

Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)

S.Silvestro

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

C.SANT'AGNESE

NANI

AI GESUATI

NOVA

PARANGON

DEL

RUGHETA

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

Palazzo Grimani

CALLE

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

DEL PISTOR

CALLE

ZATTERE

Zattere

Giudecca Hilton

PRIULI

Santa Sofia

STRADA

CAMPO DELLA PESCARIA

CAMPO DE LA BECARIE

CAMPIELLO DEL SANSONI

CAMPIELLO DEL SOL

RUGA

DEL

CARROZZE

Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia CALLE

Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione FONDAMENTA

VOLTI

CALLE

SARTORI

Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana

MUTI

BOTA

Sant’Aponal

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

CALLE

CAMPO SAN TROVASO

BONLINI

CA’

ZEN

CALLE

San Beneto San Luca

SAN

CAMPO DEI GESUITI

FONDAMENTA

FOND.

FABBRICHE

CALLE

LE

LE

CATENE

Chiesa dei Gesuiti

CATERINA

LE

TRAGHETTO

DE

CALLE

DE

S. Samuele

Ca' Rezzonico

FONDAMENTA

LA

DEL CALLE

nde

NARISI FOND.

CROSERA

Palazzo Grassi San Samuele

CALLE BERNARDO

Ca' Rezzonico

San Trovaso

OGNISANTI

DE DE

CARAMPANE

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

SAMUELE

NOVE

CALLE

SANTA

S.ANDREA

FONDAMENTA

CAMPO SAN BENETO CALLE

S. SALIZADA

LONGO

E

FONDAMENTA

FOND.

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

MORETTI

CALLE CALLE

LE

CAMPO SAN APONAL

DEL

RIELO

SPORCA CALLE PAZIENZE DE LE

LORENZO

FONDAMENTA

C. SAN

SCOAZZERA DE LA

LE PAZIENZE

DE

A

San Cassiano CAMPO SAN CASSAN

CARAMPANE DE

Gra

Palazzo Fortuny

SESTIERE DI SAN MARCO

VECCHIA

LEZZE

PONTE

Abazia della Misericordia D I

R

TRAPOLIN

STUA

PERDON

CA’ CORTE

Accademia

FOND.

ZATTERE

O

LA

CALLE

TIOZZI

TERÀ

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

Sant'Angelo

CALLE RAMO

A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA

DE OGNISANTI

AL

DEI

RIO

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

al Can Palazzo Giustinian Persico

S. Toma' SX

San Barnaba

INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON

Chiesa di Ognissanti

FONDAMENTA

FODAMENTA

IC

d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro

CALLE

L’AGNELLA

Palazzo Querini-Dubois CALLE

C. DE

RIO TERA’

L' ARZERE

GUARDIANI

DE

CALLE

CAMPO DEI CARMINI

CANAL RIO TERA’

Carmini

Santa Maria dei Carmini

ER

San Felice

S.Stae

DE

CORTE DEL TEATRO

CAMPO SAN POLO

MADONA

ROSSA

FONDAMENTA

RAGUSEI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

del

CALLE DE LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN BESAGIO

IS

TA

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

C.

SCALETER

San Tomà

DORSODURO

BESAGIO

M

FONDAMEN

VENDRAMIN

DEL

DE

DEL

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

CAMPO SAN TOMÀ

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI

FONDAMENT

VENEZIA

TA

San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

C.

EN

CALLE

DE LA

CAZZIOLA

Rio

SAN

CONTARINI

dell'Orto

AM

DE

FORNO

FONDAMENTA BRIATI

CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO

CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN

San Sebastiano

D

CA'

CALLE CA’BONVINCINI

BOLDO

ZANE

CROSERA

BEATE GIULIANA

SACCA

FISOLA

LARGA

N

TA

SAN

CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO

Madonna

MORI

FONDAMEN

RAMO

Rio Nuovo

CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL

SALIZADA

CALLE CHIESA

DEI

CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE

L

DEL

TABACCHI

Angelo Raffaele

DORSODURO

S. Basilio

DELLA

NA

Santa Fosca

CALLE

NUOVA LARDONI

C.

CA

NA

SAN POLO

CAMPO DEI FRARI

CALLE

Giudecca Hilton FONDAMENTO

CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO

CALLE

LE

ALE

CAMPO SAN STIN

TOMÀ

CAMPO SAN ROCCO

PRETI

L’ASEO

CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA

NIE

DD

DE

CALLE

TINTORETTO

DEI

CALLE

FOMO

DE

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

TERÀ

SAN

CALLE

CALLE

CAMPO SAN PANTALON

RENIER

DEL

CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA

.DA

MA

TRON

DEL

TENTOR

MEZO

CALLE

RIO

Basilica dei Frari

San Rocco

Muneghete

CALLE

CALLE

LA

CALLE

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

PAPADOPOLI

DE L’OGIO

CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI

C.

DE

CAMPO SAN BOLDO

CALLE

OCHE

LATTE

LACA CALLE DE LA LACA

le

PANTALON

San Pantalon

NUOVO

À D E

Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

CALLE

OCHE

C.VENZATO

LA

CALLE DELL'OLIO

LA

FONDARIA

CIMESIN

de

SAN

BASEGO

RIO

FO de Servi N

SOTOPORTEGO

DE

TINTOR

TOLENTINI

FONDAMENTA

DEI

DE

LA

RAMO

CIMESIN

SALIZADA

CALLE

Misericordia

FO

CALLE

L’ISOLA

DEL

FON.

CALLE

San Nicolò dei Mendicoli

CALLE

Istituto Universitario Di Architettura

CALLE SAN BASILIO

DE

DE LA VIDA

CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO CALLE

SCHI

NICOLO’ SAN

MATTA DI CA’

CALLE CASE NUOVE

AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO

TERA’

RAMO

San Giacomo dall'Orio

RUGA BELA

CALLE ORSETTI

TA

CALLE

C. CAMPAZZO DE CALLE

MINOTTO

Magazen

della

TER

CALLE

CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

CALLE CAZZA

CALLE SAVIO

RUGA VECCHIA

TA GARZOTTI FONDAMEN

CANAL CORTE

LUNA

Rio

Del

Rio dei Tolentini

FONDAMENTA

CALLE CONTARINA

Rio

La Maddalena

NOVA

I CALLE ORSETT

DEI

LIBERTÀ

VECCHIO BERGAMA

SIMEONE

MARTA SANTA FONDAMENTA

CAMPIELLO LONGHI

CALLE

CERERI

IA

RIO

Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola RIO

FONDAMEN

BARI

DELLA

SAN

TRAGHETTO CALLE

DEI

RD

R

STRADA

BIASIO

DI

BARI

CAMPO NAZARIO SAURO

DEI

FONDAMENTA

DEI FONTEGHERI

ICO

Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

VECCHIO

C.

NUOVA

RIZZI

PROCURATIE

LARGA

PONTE

LA

DEI AMAI

RAMO

Rio

PENSIERI

FONDAMENTA

LISTA

C.

CALLE

LUNGA

DEI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

SAN MICHELE

FONDAMENTA

della

CAMPO FONDAMENTA DEI MORI

ER

CALLE TRAGHETTO

RIVA FONDAMENTA

San Simeone Profeta

Soranzo Cappello

DE CAMPO

San Nicola da Tolentino

FONDAMENTA

TERÀ

MADONA

MIS

E DEL PISTO

CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA

DEL REMER

MUNEGHE

CONVERTITE

VECCHIO GHETTO

CERERIA

CALLE

LA

CALLE

CALLE

CAMIN DEL

RIELLO CALLE

CALLE

NA

Riva de Biaso

CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO

Palazzo Soranzo Capello

Giardino di Palazzo

CASE CORTE

CALLE

SANT'ANDREA

TABACCHI

RIO

LA

TA

Rio

CALL

RIO DIETRO TERÀ LA CHIESA

San Marcuola

CAMPIELLO

NUOVE

CROCE

C. LAVADORI TERÀ

CALLE

LA

Giardino Papadopoli

PIAZZALE ROMA RIO

FABBRICA FONDAMENTA

DE

Madonna dell'Orto

MADONNA

A

EN

SE

RDIA

CROCE

CALLE

AM

I

A E M

MISERICO

TO

LER

LL

LA

RIO

Ferrovia

San Simeon Piccolo

Ferrovia

Ferrovia

Sant'Andrea

SANT'ANDREA

NS

DELL'ORTO

ER LE P

EONARDO

SAN LEONARDO

San Leonardo

DEI

TERÀ

SE

ND

Museo Ebraico CAL

S. L R I O T E R À CAMPO

nde l Gra Cana

SCALZI

Ponte degli Scalzi

FONDAMENTA

P.le Roma

Ponte della Costituzione FO.

RIO

People Mover Venezia

CAMPIELLO P I AV E

FONDAMENTA

TA

Rio

DE

TI

People Mover Venezia

S A N TA

EN

FO

Santa Maria di Nazareth

TRONCHET

AM

CANNAREGIO

CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO

Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia

ITTICO MERCATO DIREZIONE

TRONCHETTO

Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo

Sant'Alvise

CAMPO S A N T ' A LV I S E

ND

INE

CALLE

ZZ

SAVORGNAN

CALLE DEI FUSERI

PU

San Girolamo

A

San Geremia

SALONI

CA

C.

FO

LE

O

SPAGNA

AI

DE

AM

CAMPO SAN GEREMIA

DI

ZATTERE

TA

OL

Palazzo Nani FONDAMENT

LISTA

FONDAMENTA

NUOVE

EN

LLO

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

AM

N G IR

DEL

ND

SA

CAPITELO

CASE

TA

CALLE

FO EN

TE

TERÀ

DA PONTE

AM

B AT

DOGE

ND

Palazzo Labia Parco Savorgnan Salone del Tiepolo

CALLE

TA

QUERIN,

BECCARIE

EN

CAVALLET

CA

CALLE

AI

CALLE

LE

AM

CANNAREGIO

di Cannaregio

PRIULI

SEBASTIANO

FORNER

FO

Canale

CAMPO SAFFA

CALLE

BRAGADIN

DEL

DE

di Sant'Alvise

Sensa

COLETTI

ND

FONDAMENTA

SAN

GIOBBE

Parcheggio Bus Turistici

della

CARLO

FO

A

San Giobbe

VENIER FONDAMENTA

NUOVE

Rio

Rio

FOND.A

Ponte dei Tre Archi

FONDAMENT

TO

DEL SABION

PENITENTI

CANNAREGIO

CAMPIELLO DEL SCARLATTO

TRONCHET

FONDAMENTA

LARGA

FONDAMENT

A

Monastero "Villa Groggia" Carmelitane Scalze

ROLAMO SACCA SAN GI

CALLE

Santa Maria delle Penitenti

CAMPIELLO DE LA LAVANDER

DEL

CORTE

F O N D A M E N TA

TA’

NOVA

FONTEGO

ER

RIO TERÀ CAZZA

B

ISOLA

LA

Parco

LI

People Mover Venezia

SALITA

LA

NUOVA ISOLA DEL TRONCHETTO

ISOLA DELLE TRESSE

NANI

EL

CANOSSIANE

Chiesa di San Michele in Isola

D

FOSCARINI

LE

FONDAMENTA

A

TERRÀ

VI

LE

ER

DE

B

TO

COLORATA

Cimitero Nuovo ORTES CALLE

VENINI

PAOLO

FONDAMENT

LI

O

MURANO CALLE

LA

CALLE DEL CIMITERO

EL

NICOLO’ CALLE SAN

D

del

LE

CALLE

A

Rio

VI

PORTO MARGHERA

CALLE

The art of solidifying silicon to obtain a hard yet delicate transparent material, suitable for countless purposes, is rooted in the ancient past. According to historians, glass was first made in Mesopotamia in the III millennium B.C. However, several archaeological digs suggest that glassmaking was already practiced in Venice in the 7th century B.C. Furthermore, after the year 1000 A.D., its production had become so important that it was protected by specific laws. There was only one small problem - the presence of glass furnaces in medieval Venice, which was largely built of timber, presented a grave fire hazard.

TORCELLO

FONDAME

home on the same day. Furthermore, each piece is unique, meaning that small imperfections are an integral part of the value of the object. In short, if you come across a shop selling mass-produced items that promises quick delivery times or tempts you with low prices, beware. Apart from some exceptions, it’s better to do your glass shopping in Murano rather than in the city of Venice. Don’t worry if you want to buy an object but don’t have time to wait: the island’s glass factories are now equipped to make safe deliveries anywhere in the world.

DI

As a result, in 1291, for safety reasons, the Great Council ordered the glass workers to transfer to the Island of Murano, where they created a district that still exists. It was here that in the 13th century eyeglasses were invented, and here, in 1369 that mirrors began to be produced. It was also here, in 1450, that Angelo Barovier invented crystal. Throughout the Renaissance, glass was a rare commodity. It was only in 1827 that glass began to be produced on an industrial level. At that point, blown glass or glass produced by lampworking became a highly prized material used for aesthetic purposes, and achieved the height of its splendor during the Art Nouveau period. Artists including Lalique, Dammouse or Tiffany sought out the glass blowers of Murano to produce their coveted objects. During the midtwentieth century, real masters of the art including Signoretto, Ballarin, Zanetti and Vidal began to emerge in Murano. Their works are highly coveted objects, true collectors' items that are often displayed at museums. While strolling through the streets of Murano, you’ll be spoilt for choice. If you want to make a purchase, bear several criteria in mind. Crafting authentic Murano glass is no easy task and isn’t cheap. Large objects require hours of work, so don’t expect to take you custom-made lamp

FONDAMENTA

Venice and glass: a strong, enduring partnership that has lasted for centuries. It’s natural to mention glass when talking about Venice. It’s the same as associating the city with the Lagoon, its colours and the plays of light that have served as inspiration for the most iconic creations by local master glass blowers.

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C

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D

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O

D

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FAUSTA


SHOPPING 18 kt. pink gold "Mosaico" jewelry by NARDI VENEZIA: VENEZIA earrings and pendant set with amethysts and cabochon-shaped garnets.

Pomellato Established in 1967 as an artisanal workshop, over the years, its contemporary jewelry has captivated wearers around the world. Pomellato creates highly sought-after collections featuring a range of stones boasting myriad colours and ultra-feminine designs. Open Mon-Sat 10am7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.pomellato.com. San Marco, 2031 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5231909. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Salvadori

ROLEX RETAILER Salvadori was founded in Venice in 1857. A member of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses, Salvadori purchases its diamonds from Antwerp and Tel Aviv, accompanied by the highest diamond quality certificates. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-6.30pm. www.salvadori-venezia. eu. Diamond Atelier Venice: Piazza San Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Salvadori Boutique Rolex: Piazza San Marco, 44. T: 041 2602313. Salvadori Boutique Panerai: Piazza San Marco, 47. T: 041 5200899. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

Tiffany & Co. Founded in 1837 in New York, Tiffany & Co. is a world-renowned jeweller. Since its introduction in 1886, the Tiffany ® Setting has been known as the ultimate symbol of love, paving the way for Tiffany’s legendary collection of engagement rings. Bold, modern collections, including the elegant, minimalist creations designed by Elsa Peretti and the brightly-coloured lines by Paloma Picasso, have made Tiffany a destination for those seeking spectacular beauty, style and the very best in design. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.tiffany.it. San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Vaporetto line 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map F5

PASSION SHOPPING La Bottega dei Mascareri The workshop of the Boldrin brothers specializes in the crafting of a variety of papier mache Venetian masks, including jesters, elves and characters from the ‘Commedia dell’Arte’ for a trip back into 18th century Venice. The Mascareri have also worked for the theatre, the cinemas and fashion shows, and are considered among several of the most established manufacturers of collector’s items. They were the first mask makers to embellish their masks with decorations by Tiepolo. Open daily 9am6pm. www.mascarer.com. San Polo, 80. T: 041 5223857 and San Polo, 2720. T: 041 5242887. Map E3

Ca’ Macana

authentic handmade masks in the same way that Venetian artisans did 800 years ago and each mask is unique. Thanks to their expertise, they also hold conferences and courses on traditional mask-making techniques. Their masks were featured in important film productions including “Eyes Wide Shut” by Stanley Kubrick and in operas including those staged by the Vienna Opera House. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.camacana.com. Maskmaking and Courses: Dorsoduro, 3215. Showrooms: Dorsoduro, 3172 and Dorsoduro 1169. T: 041 2776142. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). Map D4

Ottica Mantovani Sun and prescription glasses, the most technologically advanced lenses and the most comfortable, fashionable frames. Managed by the Carlon family since the ‘40s, it is now run by the third generation of opticians: a reference point for locals requiring either prescription eyewear or sunglasses. In fact, one of the Mantovani’s most famous customers was Peggy Guggenheim. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. www.otticamantovani.it. San Marco, 4860 (Mercerie del Capitello). T: 041 5223427. Map F4

Ottica Manuela Located in the district of San Marco, this highend optician resembles an atelier rather than a shop. Renowned for its professionalism and attentive service, it offers creations that are real works of art. Its frames for prescription lenses or sunglasses make Ottica Manuela’s iconic eyewear real statement pieces that add a unique touch to every face. Open daily 10am7pm. San Marco, 3145 (Salizada San Samuele). T: 041 5210268. Map E4

Piedàterre Tucked away under an arcade just steps from the Rialto bridge is a tiny boutique with an astonishing selection of handmade slippers, where Alessandra and Renato make and sell colourful ‘furlane’ (slippers), handcrafted with recycled bicycle-tyre treads, ideal for finding your footing on a gondola. Their creations are available in coloured velvet, brocade, printed fabrics or recycled shirting, provided by their customers. Highly original and absolutely unmissable! Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.piedaterre-venice.com. San Polo, 60 (Ruga Rialto, Sotoportego dei Oresi). T: 041 5285513. Map E3

The Merchant of Venice The prestigious stand-alone boutique of this brand which represents the ‘Art of Perfumery in Venice’ is housed in the former, mid-17th century apothecary of San Fantin, located just steps from La Fenice Opera House. Its neo-Gothic décor and ornamentation in walnut, wood and terracotta, reflect the typical style of ancient Venetian ‘palazzi’. The Merchant of Venice is not only a line of products but a wider project which includes a concept store in Murano, the Palazzo Mocenigo Museum in Santa Croce, the Spice shop in Ercole d’Oro (Cannaregio) and the World of Venice space at the Marco Polo Airport. www.themerchantofvenice.com. Open Tues-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. San Marco, 1895 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 2960559. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Venini An artistic space, where you rediscover all the elegance and sophistication of the exquisite creations handcrafted by Master glassmakers from Murano. A prime location for passionate collectors, or those whose want to further their knowledge about an entirely Italian art, Venetian glass creations, meticulously handcrafted by Master craftsmen. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.venini.com. San Marco, 314. T: 041 5224045. Other location: Fondamenta Vetrai, 47 (Murano). T: 041 2737204. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto or San Marco stops). Map F4

Tips to purchase Murano glass In order to protect local craftsmanship and guarantee the authenticity of recently purchased products, in 1994 the Region of Veneto has created a trademark to guarantee that products have been made in Murano according to the traditional techniques used by master glassblowers. Management of the registered Vetro Artistico® Murano trademark is entrusted to the Consorzio Promovetro Murano, which boasts a membership of fifty companies, the only ones allowed to mark their products with prestigious label. Depending on the type of working process involved, the adhesive sticker can be either red or blue. It also shows the manufacturer’s identification code on the top. In 2016, a serial number and a data matrix code were added to the sticker. These serve as additional proof that the product purchased is a genuine Murano-made item. (by G.M.) www.muranoglass.com – www.promovetro.com

One of the oldest and finest mask making workshops in Venice for Carnival, theatre, film production and parties. Ca’ Macana crafts w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 29


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The essence of the Lagoon Fresh fish, regional recipes and creative pizzas in a unique location: a beautifully restored former glass factory, boasting a spectacular view over the Lagoon. By Chiara Zaccarelli

A

large historic furnace, a beautifully renovated glass factory that has now been given a new lease of life by two young entrepreneurs. This is Versus Meridianem, a restaurant and pizzeria on the Island of Murano, which offers Venetian cuisine, upgraded with a contemporary twist. The location is one of the plus points of this locale which has retained its industrial vibe, with large windows overlooking the lagoon and exposed brickwork. The guiding principle of the restructuring project was a desire to retain the original essence of the building. For this reason, the skeleton and interior of the building, featuring reinforced concrete pillars, exposed brick walls and a visible electrical system, were left intact.

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The space is further enhanced by vintage furnishings, including retro wooden chairs and tables made from recycled materials, combined with contemporary armchairs and sofas, industrial lamps and exquisite Murano glass chandeliers, created by local artisans. The culinary offering focuses on the catch of the day and traditional dishes, including ‘sarde in saor’, spaghetti with squid ink and Venetian-style liver. Other highlights include creative or traditional pizzas, and a few meat specialties. All dishes are created using simple ingredients, sourced from the sea or land surrounding the Venetian lagoon. Versus Meridianem can be accessed via vaporetto from the Santa Lucia Station or Fondamenta Nuove on lines 3 / 4.1 / 4.2 Murano Colonna stop, or by water taxi.

>> Fondamenta Manin, 1 - Murano. T: 041 5275408 www.versusmeridianem.com


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/VENICE

TASTING EXPERIENCE Enoteca Al Volto Excellent wine accompanied by traditional ‘cicchetti’ and Venetian fish specialties, Enoteca Al Volto invites diners into its warm, welcoming atmosphere. €. Open daily 11.30am-3pm and 6pm-10pm. San Marco, 4081 (Calle Cavalli). T: 041 5228945. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Zaccari stop). Map E4

L’Aciugheta Its fame and fortune stems from a soft, 7 cm long “paninello” (literally, “tiny sandwich”), stuffed with butter and two “aciughete” (skinless anchovies in oil). Other must-trys include its meatballs, croutons, stuffed chili peppers and freshly baked ‘pizzette’ topped with anchovies. €. Castello, 4357 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5224292. Vaporetto line 1, or 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Osteria alla Rivetta One of Venice best-known, most traditional “cicheteria” (but also a trattoria for lunch and dinner), it is a go-to address for wine tastings. Open daily 11am-10.30pm. €. Castello, 4625. T: 041 5287302. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4

TRADITIONAL ITALIAN CUISINE

Al Giardinetto da Severino

Antica Carbonera

Set against the magnificent backdrop of the 15th century Palazzo Zorzi, the restaurant is listed as an ‘historical establishment of Venice’ and its dining room still features a vaulted ceiling and a frescoed firedplace. Its menu offers the best of traditional Venetian cuisine: baccalà, Venetianstyle liver, ‘granseola’, polenta with shrimp, a mixed fish fry with artichokes and seafood risotto. The restaurant offers a gluten free menu especially designed for coeliacs. Closed on Thursday. €€€. www.algiardinetto.it. Castello, 4928 (Salizada Zorzi). T: 041 5285332. Vaporetto line 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4

Homemade pasta, fresh fish and unusual decor: its interiors resemble those of the Miramar yacht that belonged to Franz Joseph II and Princess Sissi. A favourite haunt of artists, its charm and Venetian flavour have remained unaltered since it first opened in 1894. Standouts include its raw fish dishes and stewed cod fish with polenta. €€€. www.anticacarbonera.it. San Marco (Calle Bembo). T: 041 5225479. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4

Al Mercà Highly sought-after, typical Venetian cuisine. Boasting an informal atmosphere, it is the perfect spot to relax with a soothing cocktail after a long day of sightseeing. €€€. Lido - Via E. Dandolo, 17. T: 041 2431663. Vaporetto 1, 2, 5.1, 5.2 (Lido stop). Map E3

Alla Madonna Established in 1954 and set in one of Venice’s most picturesque corners, the Rado family has run Alla Madonna since its inception. Its welcoming ambience, characterized by an ancient vineyard, provides the perfect backdrop for the typical regional cuisine served here. €€€. www.ristoranteallamadonna.com. San Polo, 594 (Calle della Madonna). T: 041 5223824. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E4

Antiche Carampane A typical trattoria, in business for over a century, it has a friendly, convivial atmosphere. This is a go-to address for foodies and connoisseurs of fine dining. Its excellent menu, enhanced by the freshest, top quality ingredients is accompanied by an astute selection of wines. Closed on Sundays and Mondays. €€€. www.antichecarampane.com. San Polo, 1911. T: 041 5240165. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3

Antico Martini Located next to the La Fenice theatre, with its elegant dining rooms, welcoming atmosphere and attentive staff, the Antico Martini serves some of the best seafood in town. €€€. www.anticomartini.com. Campo Teatro Fenice 2007. T: 041 5224121. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).Map E5

1000 Gourmet PIZZERIA After years of experience in the restaurant business in Naples, 1000 Gourmet has opened its second locale in Venice, just steps from St. Mark’s Square. Its Neapolitan-style cuisine is based on the use of high-quality ingredients (including unrefined or gluten-free flour) and creative pairings, interpreted in numerous, tasty options. Other highlights include traditional Italian and Neapolitan ‘antipasti’, starters and desserts. Open daily, 11am-4pm/6pm-11pm. San Marco, 475/476 (Calle Specchieri). T: 041 3127069. Vaporetto Line 1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

A Beccafico Arte It offers several dining spaces and a small inner courtyard. Its typical Venetian ambience, is low-key, contemporary and elegant, blending to perfection with its Sicilian-style cuisine. €€€. Closed on Tuesdays. www.abeccaficoarte.com. Cannaregio, 2289/C. T: 041 2759220. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E5

Acqua Pazza Set against the magical backdrop of Campo Sant’Angelo, it offers a great ‘al fresco’ dining experience under the stars. This small corner of Amalfi in Venice serves an array of tantalizing dishes. €€€. www.veniceacquapazza.com. San Marco, 3808. T: 041 2770688. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).Map E4

Al Colombo A meeting point since 1986 for an international clientele, its menu maintains all the hallmark features of traditional Venetian cuisine. In summer, guests can dine outside under the romantic light of Venice’s street lamps. €€€. www.alcolombo.com. San Marco, 4619. T: 041 5222627. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3

It’s called “Vecio”, but it’s new

High-quality cuisine requires the finest, seasonal ingredients. For this reason, every day, Irina Freguia, the owner and brainchild of Vecio Fritolin, heads to the Rialto market to source the freshest meat, fish and vegetables. Formerly an old-style ‘bacaro’, or small unassuming tavern, where guests could savour a snack and a glass of wine, Vecio Fritolin has held pride of place in Santa Croce since the 18th century. Although it has now been transformed into a restaurant, it has lost none of the old-school charm that makes it one of the most pleasant places in Venice for a special occasion meal. The kitchen is manned by two chefs: Pierluigi Lovisa, boasting 40 years of experience in the business, is the ‘director’ of this historic locale, featured in guides worldwide, while Raffaele Minute, the young, creative soul of the restaurant, is more oriented towards experimentation, upgrading desserts, hors d’oeuvres and several other dishes served at the restaurant with a contemporary twist. Santa Croce, 2262 (Calle della Regina). T: 041 5222881. www.veciofritolin.it

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DINING Italian labels. Vegetarian meals are also served. Antico Pignolo

Kosher in Venice If you are already familiar with Jewish dietary laws, or want to try a new ‘kosher’ gastronomic experience, here are some great addresses that will not disappoint!

KOSHER RESTAURANT GHIMEL GARDEN The restaurant offers kosher specialties and typical fish-based dishes. Halav. Lemehadrin. The menu is accompanied by a great selection of strictly kosher wines. Open daily 9.30am-3.30pm/6.30pm-10pm. Serves Shabbat dinners on Friday evenings and at lunch on Saturdays strictly subject to reservation. ghimelgarden.com. Cannaregio, 2873/c (Campo del Ghetto Nuovo). T: 041 8226131. KOSHER HOUSE GIARDINO DEI MELOGRANI Located just a 10-minute walk from the Santa Lucia Railway Station, this is the only kosher residence in Venice. Nestling in the heart of Venice’s Ghetto, it is equipped with all the necessary accoutrements for the strict observance of Kasheruth and Halacha. www.pardesrimonim.net. Cannaregio, 2873. T: 041 8226131. CAFFETTERIA DEL MUSEO EBRAICO DI VENEZIA Indulge in a flavoursome break at the cafè of Venice’s famous Jewish Museum. Situated in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo, the venue is set between two of Venice’s oldest synagogues. Halav. Cannaregio, 2902 (Campo del Ghetto Nuovo). T: 340 1046858.

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€€€. hand www.lacalcina.com. Hotel Calcina.in The of owner Eligioc/o Paties, is La apparent Dorsoduro, 780 (Zattere). T: 041 5206466. Vaporetto its beautifully laid tables and impeccable service. line 2traditional or 5.1 (Zattere stop). MapisE6 The Venetian menu accompanied

by a well-stocked cellar boasting more than La Conca d’Oro 900 labels from all over the world. €€€. Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, La www.anticopignolo.com. San Marco, 451 Conca d’Oro was established by Sicilian brothers (Calle degli Specchieri). T: 041 5228123. Giuseppe and Giovanni Costa, the founders of Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4 the first pizzeria in Northern Italy. Since that time, this Venetian institution has been turning out Da Fiore some of the best pizza in town. € (pizzeria) - €€€ A renowned Venetian restaurant that offers top(restaurant). www.concadorovenice.com. Castello, notch cuisine in a sophisticated, elegant setting. 4338 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 Thirty-five years ago, Mara and Maurizio Martin 5229293. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 , 5.1 (San Zaccaria transformed an old osteria into one of the city’s stop). Map F4 most famous restaurants. Impeccable service and superlative Venetian dishes composed of La Porta d’Acqua carefully selected seasonal ingredients have Set just steps from the Rialto Bridge, the restaurant made Da Fiore a must-visit destination. Closed on is housed in a 15th century building and decorated Mondays. €€€. www.dafiore.net. San Polo, 2202. with original frescoes dating back to 1700. Its cuisine T: 041 721308. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato conjures up the aroma of authentic Neapolitan stop). Map E3 cuisine, thanks to ingredients sourced exclusively from Campani. Gran Canal €€€. www.laportadacqua.it. San Polo, you 1022/b Terà Silvestro). T: 041of 2412124. Here can(Rio taste theSan typical specialties Vaporettotradition, 1 (San Silvestro stop). E4expression Venetian featuring theMap purest of taste and harmony. The restaurant’s main focus Lineadombra is on seafood and vegetables. Don’t miss a dinner Perched on the last bridge of the most beautiful on its evocative terrace: the restaurant faces promenade in Venice, le Zattere, this is the perfect directly onto the Grand Canal offering diners an spot for a romantic dinner where you can enjoy all excellent opportunity to combine the pleasures the typical flavours of the Venetian lagoon. €€€. of the palate with a stunning view over Venice’s www.ristorantelineadombra.com. Dorsoduro, 19. lagoon. Open: lunch 12.30pm-2.30pm, dinner T: 041 2411881. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Zattere stop) or 1 7.30pm-11.30pm €€€. www.hotelmonaco.it. c/o (Salute stop). Map E5 Hotel Monaco&Gran Canal. San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 Locanda Cipriani Map F5close to Venice, (San Marcowho stop). For those want to be yet feel worlds away, the Locanda Cipriani

Harry’s Bar is a superb, romantic hideaway. Featuring a

Founded the 1930s, this legendary bar is simple yetinevocative atmosphere, it is popular renowned for its Bellini gourmets cocktails (originally among knowledgeable as a fantastic invented here) and for being the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of almost every famous name to visit Venice. Today, It is still a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice, a perfect opportunity to step back in time and savour its slightly retro and incredibly fascinating atmosphere. www.harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco, 1323 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto 1 (Rialto stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

Il Nuovo Galeon Located on via Garibaldi, near the Giardini della Biennale and just behind the Arsenal, this restaurant is mainly frequented by Venetians. A typical, family-run restaurant with an outdoor terrace (summer), its attractive interior is characterized by typical nautical décor, including the hull of a ‘bragozzo’, a typical fishing boat built by Crea, the famous Venetian rowing champion. €€€. www.ilnuovogaleon.com. Castello, 1308, T: 041 5204656. Vaporetto 5.1 or 5.2 (Giardini stop). Map H5

restaurant. A farmhouse from the exterior, it Lineadombra

has beenon renovated with great charm, Perched the last bridge of the mostexuding beautiful an understated elegance with beautiful promenade in Venice, le Zattere, this is the perfect country and fresh where flowers. €€€. www. spot for antiques a romantic dinner you can enjoy all locandacipriani.com. Santa Fosca 29 €€€. the typical flavours ofPiazza the Venetian lagoon. (Torcello island). T: 041 730150. Vaporetto line 12 www.ristorantelineadombra.com. Dorsoduro, 19. from Nove direction Burano, stop) then T: 041Fondamente 2411881. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Zattere take the 9 line). Off MapE5 or 1 (Salute stop). Map

Taverna al Do Remer Trattoria Forni

Located near to the Rialtohas Bridge, this romantic The owner Eligio Paties managed to make ‘taverna’ is distinguished by its destination, open-brick this restaurant a sought-after decor, which lends an intimate, informal touch. distinguished by itsit wide assortment of Venetian Although thetomenu featuresofsimple, traditional fare, thanks the quality the dishes and a dishes, it sense often surprises diners with unusual genuine of typically Venetian hospitality. pairings. Closed onwill Wednesdays. www. The dining spaces remind you€€€. of the alremer.it.of Cannaregio, 5701.“Orient T. 041 5228789. carriages the legendary Express” Vaporetto line 1 to (Ca’ d’Oro stop). and pay tribute the history of Venice. €€€.

Map F3 www.doforni.it. San Marco, 468 (Calle dei Specchieri). T: 041 5232148. Vaporetto line Trattoria Do Forni 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4 The owner Eligio Paties has managed to make this restaurant a sought-after destination, Wildner distinguished byFullin its wide assortment Opened by the family in 1960, itofisVenetian fare, thanksby to locals the quality of the dishes patronized and tourists alike. and Its a genuine sense ofatmosphere typically Venetian hospitality. tranquil, relaxed is further enhanced Thea dining spacesview will over remind of the carriages by spectacular theyou Basin of St. of the legendary andand payserves tribute Mark’s. Its menu “Orient is mainlyExpress” fish-based to the history of Venice. €€€.including www.doforni.it. San classic Venetian specialties ‘Baccalà Marco, 468 (Calle dei Specchieri). T: 041 on 5232148. Mantecato’ and ‘Sarde in Saor’. Closed Vaporetto €€€. line 1c/o or Pensione 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4 Tuesdays. Wildner. Castello,

4161. T: 041 5227463. Vaporetto line 4.1 Wildner or 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4 Opened by the Fullin family in 1960, it is patronized by locals and tourists alike. Its tranquil, relaxed atmosphere is further enhanced by a spectacular view over the Basin of St. Mark’s. Its menu is mainly Dal Mas and serves classic Venetian specialties fish-based Located a few minutes from the‘Sarde railway includingjust ‘Baccalà Mantecato’ and in Saor’. station, thisTuesdays. pastry shop a triumph of Closed on €€€.offers c/o Pensione Wildner. traditional sweet treats for breakfast (in addition Castello, 4161. T: 041 5227463. Vaporetto line 4.1 to try their ‘zaleti’, ‘pan Map G4dei Dogi’ and or croissants, 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). ‘sbreghettine’). Those with a sweet tooth will be delighted to know that Dal Mas is also a chocolate shop where you can find single servings of mousse, mini Sacher torte, ‘cannoli’ and brightlycoloured macarons. www.cioccolateriadalmas. com. Cannaregio, 149/a (Rio Terà Lista de Spagna), a few metres from the St. Lucia Station. T: 041 715101. Map D3

PASTRY SHOPS

Pasticceria Italo Didovich Should you find yourself in the vicinity of Campo Santa Marina (just a little off the beaten tourist track), make a beeline for this excellent pastry shop, which has stood here for the past 40 years. In addition to ‘frolle’ and rice and almond pastries, it also offers several tantalizing delicacies Castello. Campo Santa Marina. T: 041 5230017. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F3

Pasticceria Rosa Salva

This institution has three separate shops in Venice. The first is in San Marco-Calle Fiubera: its historic headquarters, permeated by the aromas of its nearby pastry kitchen. The next is in San La Conca d’Oro Marco-Mercerie: aperitivi and quick snacks that Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, can be enjoyed in between browsing the shops La Conca d’Oro was established by Sicilian lining le Mercerie, the shopping street that brothers Giuseppe and Giovanni Costa, the connects the Rialto to St. Mark’s Square. founders of the first pizzeria in Northern Italy. The last is in Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo. Since that time, this Venetian institution has www.rosasalva.it. San Marco (Calle Fiubera), been turning out some of the best pizza in T: 041 5210544. San Marco (Mercerie), T: 041 town. € (pizzeria) - €€€ (restaurant). www. The haute cuisine of this signature restaurant plays on the creative combinations of 5227934. Castello (Campo San Giovanni e Paolo), concadorovenice.com. Castello, 4338 (Campo SS. Italiane specialties traditional Venetian dishes. T: 041www.kempinski.com/it/venice 5227949. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Filippo Giacomo). T:and 041 5229293. Vaporetto Map F4 lines 1, 2 , 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

ACQUERELLO RESTAURANT

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Top hotel restaurants Where® highlights some culinary destinations to whet your appetite at several top hotels in Venice.

Glam Acquerello c/o S. Clemente Palace Kempinski. www.kempinski.com Isola di San Clemente, 1. T: 041 4750111. Italian and Venetian tradition with creative and surprising combinations. Its view is as breathtaking as its food: the restaurant boasts a large terrace. Off Map Arva c/o Hotel Aman Venice. www.aman.com Palazzo Papadopoli. San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo). T: 041 2707333. A delightfully unique menu, thanks to several specialties created by Executive Chef Dario Ossola.

Map E4 Antinoo’s c/o Centurion Palace Venezia. www.sinahotels.com Dorsoduro, 173. T: 041 34281. In addition to the à la carte menu you can also choose from a selection of typical gourmet Venetian dishes. Map E5 Aromi c/o Hilton Molino Stucky. www.molinostuckyhilton.it Giudecca, 810. T: 041 2723311. Here you can taste authentic Mediterranean cuisine. Summer terrace with a fabulous view over Venice and the Giudecca Canal. Map C6 Canova c/o Baglioni Hotel Luna. www.baglionihotels.com San Marco, 1243. T: 041 5289840. Menus and tastings featuring the best of traditional Venetian cuisine. All dishes are made using only the freshest, high-quality ingredients. Map F5 Club del Doge c/o The Gritti Palace. www.clubdeldoge.com Campo Santa Maria del Giglio. T: 041 794611. A welcoming ambience and authentic upscale cuisine make each culinary experience a truly special one. Map E5

De Pisis c/o Hotel Bauer Palazzo. www.bauervenezia.com San Marco, 1413/d. T: 041 5207022. For a romantic canal side dinner, set against the backdrop of the historic Basilica della Salute. Map F5 Do Leoni c/o Hotel Londra Palace. www.londrapalace.com Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni). T: 041 5200533. It combines the traditions of Venetian fare with more creative dishes Two atmospheric dining spaces: an indoor dining room and its summer Veranda. Map G4 Fiola at Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa. www.jwvenice.com Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco. T: 041 8521300 The renowned name of Fabio Trabocchi is behind this restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private island. Off Map Glam c/o Palazzo Venart. www.palazzovenart.com Santa Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron). T: 041 5233784. Chef Enrico Bartolini offers an interpretation of contemporary Italian cuisine and research-based use of locally-sourced Venetian ingredients. Map E3 Grand Canal c/o Hotel Monaco & Grand Canal San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. www.hotelmonaco.it A meeting place for gurus of the world of economy and finance, journalists and artists. Here you can enjoy the typical dishes of Venetian tradition, from the delicacies of the sea to the vegetables. Map F5 Il Giardino Segreto c/o Grand Hotel dei Dogi. www.dahotels.com Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto, 3500 (Calle Larga Piave). T: 041 2208110. In an elegant and intimate atmosphere, you can enjoy international specialties and delicacies of the Italian cuisine, created by highly skilled chefs. Map E1

L’Alcova c/o Ca’ Sagredo Hotel. www.casagredohotel.com Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99. T: 041 2413111. Boasting a magnificent panoramic terrace over the Grand Canal and in front of the historic Rialto Market, it is ‘the’ temple of traditional Venetian cuisine for real connoisseurs. Map E3 La Caravella c/o Hotel Saturnia. www.restaurantlacaravella.com Calle Larga XXII Marzo, 2399. T: 041 5208901. Opened in 1963, it completes the services offered by the Hotel Saturnia with a touch of culinary excellence thanks to its fabulous Venetian cuisine updated with a contemporary, gourmet twist. Map E5 Le Maschere c/o Starhotels Splendid Venice. www.starhotels.com San Marco Mercerie, 760. T: 041 5200755. Here you can sample authentic Venetian cuisine, featuring both meat and fish-based dishes. A truly gourmet experience, guaranteed by its partnership with Eataly. Map F4 Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. www.belmond.com Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801. Take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant takes its name, and try the specialties inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6 Pisanino c/o Palazzetto Pisani. www.palazzettopisani.com San Marco, 2814. T: 041 5232550. Here you can savor refined Italian and gourmet food in a typically Venetian ambient. Particular events are often organized in this space.

Map E5 Terrazza Danieli c/o Hotel Danieli. www.terrazzadanieli.com Riva degli Schiavoni, 4196. T: 041 5226480. A trip to discover traditional flavours. Exclusive gourmet experience, with a menu featuring locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. Don’t miss the breathtaking view over the lagoon. Map F4

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Michelin-starred restaurants

Oro

Quadri

Met

Are you in search of a real Venetian tasting experience? Where® brings you a round-up of Michelin-starred restaurants for true connoisseurs of taste! Fiola at Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco T: 041 8521300 www.jwvenice.com Aptly named ‘Dopolavoro’, which means after work. The renowned name of Fabio Trabocchi is behind this new restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private island - the Isola delle Rose, right out in the Venetian lagoon. After a day of business meetings or exploring Venice, enjoy delicious gourmet recipes with an individual flavour and skilful light touch - the true mark of a great chef. Off Map Glam c/o Palazzo Venart. Santa Croce, 1961. T: 041 5235676 www.palazzovenart.com/en/restaurant-bar Set within a secluded corner of Venice and located in a prime position overlooking the Grand Canal,

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the Glam is situated inside Palazzo Venart. Just one year after it opened, it was awarded its first Michelin star in November 2017. The brainchild behind its menu is Enrico Bartolini, Italy’s youngest chef. Helmed by resident chef Donato Ascani, the restaurant serves traditional Venetian dishes upgraded with a futuristic twist and enriched with contemporary pairings that intensify the fabulous flavours of the Lagoon. Glam can host up to 40 guests indoors or al fresco. Map E3 Il Ridotto Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo, 4509. T: 041 5208280 www.ilridotto.com Located just steps from San Marco, Il Ridotto, 'reduced' in Italian, refers to the size of this tiny, gracious restaurant. The innovative menu employing traditional elements is revised daily, with the offerings tending toward lighter, but wonderfully tasty versions of classic dishes. A particular characteristic? It only has 9 tables. Map F4

Met Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149. T: 041 5240034 www.hotelmetropole.com Located inside the Metropole hotel, the Met Restaurant is a pioneer of a new concept targeted at promoting the Italian region. Its menu features recipes based on traditional Italian gastronomy served in two versions: either classical or upgraded with a creative twist, served in unusual but never excessive combinations. Its carefully prepared dishes are full of flavour and presented in a bright, colourful way. Map G4 Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani Giudecca, 10 T: 041 240801 www.belmond.com A jewel in the crown of Belmond Hotel Cipriani, experience Venice’s top taste sensation at this enchanting Michelin-starred restaurant. Oro reflects the romantic spirit of Venice: take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant draws its name, and try the specialities inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6


Osteria da Fiore San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308 www.dafiore.net An Osteria only by name because this is actually an elegant, starred restaurant. Its cuisine ranges from the most authentic traditional flavours interpreted in a modern-day key (meaning that offerings tend to be lighter) to more unusual dishes invented by the chef, intended to be as close to nature as possible thanks to a great selection of highly sought-after seasonal ingredients. Ask for a wine recommendation from its excellent wine list which also features several international labels. Map E3 Quadri Piazza San Marco, 121. T: 041 5222105 www.alajmo.it A real institution of Venetian taste, starting from its decor. The restaurant – with the Quadrino and Grancaffè Quadri on the ground floor – has recently reopened after a major restoration by Philippe Stark: triumph of stucco, Murano glass and precious fabrics housed in one of the most photographed ‘palazzi’ in the city. Its menu features intriguing, creative dishes that are beautifully presented... without forgetting its spectacular view over piazza San Marco. Map F4

Glam

Il Ridotto

Venissa Fondamenta S. Caterina, 3 (Mazzorbo) T: 041 5272281 www.venissa.it On the one hand its vegetable gardens and vineyards, and, on the other, its cuisine featuring an intoxicating meld of locally sourced ingredients. Its bucolic surroundings serve as the ideal backdrop to its authentic, typically Venetian cuisine lovingly prepared by its four chefs who only use fresh, seasonal ingredients. Off Map

Venissa

Fiola at Dopolavoro

Osteria da Fiore

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ENTERTAINMENT

The romance of luxury train travel An experience on the Venice Simplon Orient Express is the ideal solution for visitors who want to combine a trip back in time, in places of rare beauty enhanced by five-star cabin service. By Giulia Minero

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t least once in their lifetime, every globetrotter has dreamt of travelling on the legendary Orient Express, especially if they’ve read Agatha Christie’s ‘Murder on the Orient Express'. Today, a dream made possible thanks to the Venice Simplon Orient Express, an exclusive experience powered by Belmond. The train, which departs from Venice, Verona, Berlin, London, Paris, Vienna, Prague, Budapest or Istanbul, takes travelers on a journey through art cities and breathtaking landscapes on board a train that embodies retro indulgence, while providing every modern comfort where no detail has been spared. By day you can admire the scenery from comfortable cabins with twin seating or enjoy a gourmet meal immersed

36 W H E R E V E N I C E I N O V E M B E R 2019

in Art Déco furnishings and interiors while, at night, passengers can choose from among six Grand Suites - Paris, Istanbul, Venice, Vienna, Prague and Budapest – inspired by the destinations to which the train travels every year. Cubist-style mosaics, silk-covered walls, details in warm shades of gold and emerald green, and the intricate patterns of the carpets combine with polished wood furnishings, hand-embroidered cushions and original 1920s chandeliers, conjuring up the magical atmospheres of the cities that inspired them. Evoking the elegance and allure of the golden age of travel, no detail has been left to chance. Every suite has its own bathroom, a double bed and a private lounge where you can relax or enjoy a drink in total privacy.

>> wwww.belmond.com/trains


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/VENICE

Teatro Goldoni The Goldoni Theater is the oldest theater in Venice. Built by the Vendramin family in 1622, it was originally named after them. Its high point came in 1752, when it engaged Carlo Goldoni, the city’s most important dramatist at that time. It was renovated several times, first in 1818 and subsequently in 1933 and in 1979. In addition to Verona’s Teatro Nuovo and Padua’s Teatro Verdi, the Goldoni Theater is now managed by the Teatro Stabile di Veneto. ON SHOW Don’t miss the “Arlecchino Furioso” perfomance, an original comedy written in the classical canon of the ‘Commedia dell’Arte” - an art form whose colours and masks have conveyed the vitality of popular tradition for more than four centuries. Supertitles in French and English. Until 21 October. www. teatrostabiledelveneto.it. San Marco, 4650/B. T: 041 2402011. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto stop). Map E4

Teatro La Fenice

UNMISSABLE Located in the Sestiere San Marco, La Fenice Opera House is the one of the most legendary opera houses in Italy. Twice destroyed by fire (1836 and 1996) and twice restored to its former splendour, for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, symphonies and the International Festival of Contemporary Music. In the 19th century, it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Gioachino Rossini, Vincenzo Bellini, Gaetano Donizetti and Giuseppe Verdi, while in the 20th century it became a focal point for contemporary productions. www.teatrolafenice.it. The theater is generally open daily for tours from 9.30am to 6pm. Full ticket: 10 €. The ticket price includes an audio guide, available in 5 languages (Italian, English, German, French and Spanish). San Marco, 4387 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 786672. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5

air opera house, is located in Verona’s historic centre (115 km from Venice). Each summer, since 1913, it hosts a famous opera festival featuring must-see performances and internationally renowned stars. www.arena.it. Verona, piazza Bra 1. T: 045 8005151, 5873. Off Map

Teatro Olimpico Vicenza One of Vicenza’s artistic marvels (located 75 km from Venice), the Teatro Olimpico was designed by Renaissance architect Andrea Palladio in 1580. It is the first and oldest covered ‘Teatro Stabile’ in the world. Its interior simulates the outdoor setting of classical theatres, with a monumental rectangular proscenium, built to host its inaugural performance in 1585. Seven wooden perspective scenes depicting the streets of Thebes depart from here in a sunburst pattern. Included in UNESCO’s list of World Heritage Sites in 1994, it continues to host performances and concerts. www.teatrolimpicovicenza.it. Vicenza, piazza Matteotti, 11. T: 0444 222800. Off Map

WELLNESS Grand Hotel dei Dogi Spa Elegance, style and design blend to create a regenerating oasis, the ideal place for a one-of-akind pampering experience offering a rich program of wellness and body treatments. c/o Grand Hotel dei Dogi. www.dahotels.com. Cannaregio, 3500 (Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto - Calle Larga

Piave). T: 041 2208111. Vaporetto line 4.1 and 5.1 (Sant’Alvise stop). Map E2

JW Venice Spa Housed in a simple and elegant building, the Spa – the largest in Venice with its 1,750 m² – opens like a shell onto the water and has eight treatment cabins with a view of the lagoon and a marvellous suite. Facilities include a stunning heated indoor vitality pool that extends outdoors through a moveable glass wall, a sauna, bio-sauna, hammam and gym. Non-resident guests are welcome, and there is a dedicated JW Venice Spa dock for water taxis and boats arriving from across the lagoon. c/o JW Marriott Venice. www.jwvenice.com. Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco. T: 041 8521300. Private boat from piazza San Marco c/o moletto JW Marriott every 30 minutes. Off Map

The Merchant of Venice Spa An oasis of luxurious indulgence, where The Merchant of Venice’s fragrant and refined essences blend with Kempinski’s European flair. 380 sq.m. of wellness and fitness, with a unique selection of aromatherapy massages, spoiling beauty treatments and healthy fitness recommendations. Equipped with a hot tub and a state-of-the-art modular system combining sauna, Turkish bath and shower as well as an elegant lounge area for two, the Spa Suite. c/o San Clemente Palace Kempinski. www.kempinski.com. Isola di San Clemente, 1. T: 041 4750111. Hotel’s complimentary boat from piazza San Marco. Off Map

Villa Pisani PHOTO © CLAUDIO CARIDI / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

CONCERT VENUES & THEATRES

GAMBLING & CASINOS Casinò di Venezia Inaugurated in 1638, this is the world's oldest gaming house and its charm has remained unaltered over the years. A perfect example of renaissance style stately home, the dwelling place of the doges and Richard Wagner’s last residence, Ca’ Vendramin Calergi is one of the most elegant buildings overlooking Venice’s major waterway, the Grand Canal. Today the rooms for elegant French games and American gaming tables are given over to the best professionals, whilst over 600 slot machines provide a more informal way of having fun. For venues, opening times, tickets: www.casinovenezia.it. Ca’ Vendramin Calergi Cannaregio, 2040. T. 041 5297111. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marcuola stop). • Ca' Noghera - Italy’s first American-style casino, opened in 1999, it offers over 5,000 square meters of entertainment, including a new poker room for Texas hold’em Poker tournaments. Via Paliaga 4/8 Tessera (5 minutes from the Marco Polo Airport). Map E2

VENETO HOT VENUES Arena di Verona The best-preserved Roman amphitheater in the world and the best known in Italy after Rome’s Colosseum, the Arena, the city’s legendary open-

In praise of slowness In bygone days, aristocratic Venetian families built country estates where they could spend the summer amidst lush green surroundings and spaces, to enjoy rural recreation. Nowadays, a leisurely boat tour of the Brenta Riviera (1 hour from Venice) is a delightful experience that allows participants to admire these masterpieces of architecture that were designed centuries ago, and which continue to astonish those visiting the area. Unmissable stopovers include Villa Foscari, also known as ‘la Malcontenta’, a stunning mansion built by Andrea Palladio in 1559 and now a UNESCO world heritage site; the magnificent 18th century Villa Pisani which, in addition to housing a magnificent fresco by Giovan Battista Tiepolo, was so large that it was used as meeting place for numerous heads of state until the Pisani family sold it to Napoleon in 1807, and, finally, Villa Widmann which combines the tradition of Veneto villas with French Rococò architecture and is now the headquarters of the Venetian tourist board. Day cruises are available from both Venice and Padua. Several tour companies also offer romantic evening cruises. www.veneziaunica.it - www.welcomepadova.it

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MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Memories of the ancient Rome In the Castello sestiere, on Ruga Giuffa, you can visit a truly unique ‘palazzo’ whose interior is reminiscent of the splendours of ancient Rome.

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uilt in the 16th century by members of a noble Venetian family, Palazzo Grimani is a testament to its owners’ passion for archaeology. The Grimanis built the palace to house their collection of more than 150 ancient statues, creating a place that harkens back to the time of ancient Rome. For this reason, the ‘palazzo’ differs from the typical architectural style of Venetian residences, even boasting a Roman-style courtyard. The Grimani family, whose ancestors include a Doge and a bishop accused of heresy, hired the best artists of the period to build their ‘home’ and create a unique masterpiece inspired by ancient Rome. Its decorated ceilings recall the frescoes of domus romane: grotesques inspired by those unearthed in the 16th century at Rome’s famous Domus Aurea 38 W H E R E V E N I C E I N O V E M B E R 2019

and mythological scenes frescoed on the walls. The palace’s most admired space, the Tribuna, has niches where the Grimani’s collection of ancient sculptures used to stand. It was something of a wonder room that was flooded with light from a central lantern. Until May 2021, the must-visit exhibition ‘Domus Grimani 1594-2019. La collezione di sculture classiche a palazzo dopo quattro secoli’ celebrates the temporary return to Palazzo Grimani of the collection of classic statues and furnishings that belonged to Giovanni Grimani, the Patriarch of Aquileia. The exhibition takes visitors through a series of rooms (the Camaron d'Oro, the Sala a Fogliami and the Antitribuna) to the Tribuna, created to host more than 130 of the collection’s most important sculptures.

>> www.palazzogrimani.org Castello, 4858 (Ramo Grimani)


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/VENICE

ATTRACTIONS & MONUMENTS

LA FENICE OPERA HOUSE

www.teatrolafenice.it

Basilica del Redentore

PH © MICHELE CROSERA

Based on a project by the famous architect Andrea Palladio, the Basilica was built in 1577 on the island of Giudecca. It contains works by Tintoretto, Veronese and other important Venetian artists. It was built to celebrate the deliverance from the Black Death, which killed one third of the population. To commemorate the end of the plague, a solemn festival is still held at the church on the third Sunday of July. www.chorusvenezia.org. Campo Redentore (Giudecca). T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 41 and 2 (Redentore stop). Map E6

Basilica di San Marco This is the most important Catholic church in the city, and one of the most important monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. The famous winged lion, a symbol of the city and of the ancient ‘Venetian Republic’ is depicted on its pediment. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. You might have to queue for a time to get inside, but your wait will be well worthwhile. Although admission is free, you will have to pay to see several specific sights. In order not to miss your visit, be sure to inform yourself about the opening hours, as they are often subject to change. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-4pm; Sun (and Public Holidays) 2pm-4pm. www.basilicasanmarco.it. San Marco, 328. T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

Campanile di San Marco (Bell Tower) This 98.6 metre bell tower is affectionately known to the Venetians as ‘el paron de casa’ (the master of the house) because it dominates the city, observing everything that lies below it. Resting lightly on the exquisite Loggetta del Sansovino, it has a particularly recognizable shape and a rich history. The original medieval bell tower was modified several times, and rebuilt entirely when it unexpectedly collapsed in 1902. It is worth going up to the tower, to enjoy a breathtaking view over the city. Although admission is not free, it is often included in joint tickets. Opening times are subject to change. T: 041 5225205. Vaporetto lines 1,2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

Canal Grande (Grand Canal) Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the main waterway of Venice and much more. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels, and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. For centuries, the Canal has witnessed lavish parties and workshop events, religious processions, capital executions, historical regattas and epidemics. Those visiting Venice should dedicate a few hours to a cruise on the Canal, not only for the pleasure of this experience, but because it offers several of the best panoramic views of Venetian palaces. It is is almost impossible to list all of them, but

OPERA 2, 3 November (Opera Season 2018/2019) LA TRAVIATA by Giuseppe Verdi Stefano Ranzani, conductor Robert Carsen, director Patrick Kinmonth, sets & costumes Robert Carsen & Peter Van Praet, light designer Philippe Girardeau, choreography 24 PREMIERE, 27, 30 November and 3, 7 December (Opera Season 2019/2020) DON CARLO by Giuseppe Verdi Myung-Whun Chung, conductor Robert Carsen, director Radu Boruzescu, sets Petra Reinhardt, costumes Claudio Marino Moretti, chorus master CONCERT 1 November at Sale Apollinee MUSICA CON LE ALI with Enrico Bronzi & Ludovica De Bernardo Music by Fryderyk Chopin, Dmitri Shostakovich, Sergej Rachmaninov 9, 10 November at Malibran Theatre (Concert Season 2019/2020) Marco Angius Concert Music by Maurizio Azzan, Richard Strauss, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, Ludwig van Beethoven 14 November at Sale Apollinee MUSICA CON LE ALI with Sara Zeneli & Roberto Prosseda Music by Johannes Brahms, Karol Maciej Szymanowski, Pablo Martín

Melitón de Sarasate Sara Zeneli, violin Roberto Prosseda, piano CHAMBER MUSIC 3, 4 November at Sale Apollinee Enrico Dindo & Pietro De Maria in concert Music by Fryderyk Chopin, Mario Castelnuovo-Tedesco, Silvio Omizzolo Enrico Dindo, cello Pietro De Maria, piano BALLET 3 November at Teatro Malibran “Peggy Untitled” dedicated to Peggy Guggenheim VeneziainDanza 2019 - XII edition Coreograph by Michela Barasciutti Compagnia Tocnadanza Michela Barasciutti, artistic conductor 17 November at Teatro Malibran Dal Sacro al Profano: “Messia Händel Suite” & “Sleeping Beauty” VeneziainDanza 2019 - XII edition – Ekodance Company “Messia”: coreograph by Paolo Mohovic and music by Georg Friedrich Händel “The Sleeping Beauty”: coreograph by Mats Ek and music by Piotr Tchaikovsky 23 November at Teatro Malibran Cinderella: an Italian Story… VeneziainDanza 2019 - XII edition – Compagnia Fabula Saltica Coreograph by Claudio Ronda and music by Gioachino Rossini, Simone PIzzardo

The Teatro La Fenice is usually open for tours daily from 9.30am to 6pm, although variations may occur in the schedule for artistic or technical reasons. The Theatre hosts a Maria Callas exhibition focused on her Venetian years. Ticket: 10 euros (including an audio guide, which is available in 5 languages: Italian, English, German, French and Spanish). www.festfenice.com

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for more information you can visit the www. canalgrandevenezia.it website. For excursions and boat cruises visit www.canalgrande.it, or ask your concierge.

Chiesa and Scuola Grande di San Rocco A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures, including an impressive number of works by Tintoretto as well those by Tiepolo and Giorgione. Opening hours subject to change www.scuolagrandesanrocco.org. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Chiesa della Madonna dell’Orto This is one of the largest churches in Venice, and, according to popular belief, is named after a statue of the Virgin Mary which supposedly had miraculous powers. It contains a significant number of artworks, mostly by Tintoretto and Bellini, but also by Titian and Palma the Younger. The complex also houses the smaller church of San Marziale, dating back to before the year 1000. This church can only be visited by booking. Open Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 12pm-5pm. www.

madonnadellorto.org. Cannaregio, 3512. T: 041 719933. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1, 5.2, A (Orto stop). Map E2

Ghetto di Venezia Although documentation chronicles the presence of a Jewish community in Venice from before the year 1000, it was only during the 6th century, due to political unrest in Europe and a significant increase in non-Christian immigrants that, for the first time, the Venetian Senate, issued a decree stating that the Jewish population should move to a specific part of the city, where they could be better ‘controlled’. Thus Jews were forced to move to this, then, remote northwestern corner of Venice, to an abandoned site of a 14th-century foundry (‘ghetto’ is old Venetian dialect for "foundry," a word that would soon be used throughout Europe and the world to depict an area where isolated minority groups lived. The Venetian Ghetto nevertheless became a thriving, vibrant district. In 1797, when Napoleon rolled into town, the ghetto was disbanded as an institution, and Jews were free to move elsewhere. Today it is still the center of Venice's ever-diminishing community of Jewish families. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1 (Ponte Guglie stop). Map D2

Palazzo Ca’ Vendramin Calergi (Casinò di Venezia) Overlooking the Grand Canal, this building houses the oldest casino in the world. An ageold destination, for aristocratic travelers from both East and West, Venice was the first city in the world to open a gaming house way back in 1683. Today its old-world ambience continues to play host to several of the world’s most classical games. The casino is open to everyone aged 18 and over and proper attire is required. www.casinovenezia.it. Cannaregio, 2040 (Calle Colombina). Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marcuola stop). Map E3

Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square) Known throughout the world, this square is the heart of Venice and its most symbolic landmark. It consists of a central, trapezoid-shaped unit integrated with other areas. Measuring 170 metres in length, it faces directly onto the water and is surrounded by several magnificent stately buildings. Its incalculable scenic beauty makes it one of the most widely-photographed places in the world. The best thing to do here is to look around and exult, but don’t forget that the square has a number of specific landmark sites, whose interiors can also be visited: the Basilica of San Marco (see listing), the Bell Tower (see listing), Palazzo Ducale (see Museums listings), the Clock Tower (see listing) and some 18th century cafés, the Florian and the Quadri, to mention the best-known... Vaporetto lines, 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs) The Bridge of Sighs is a Baroque bridge that, by crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from which its name derives are not those of lovers, but those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. Open daily 8.30am- 7pm. www.palazzoducale. visitmuve.it. San Marco, 31024 (piazza San Marco). T:041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1,2, (San Marco stop). Map F4

Ponte di Rialto (Rialto Bridge)

A blend of art and design The work created for the Art Biennale 2019 in partnership with luxury watch and jewelry maison Piaget by the Verhoeven Twins, Dutch artists represented by the Carpenters Workshop Gallery, a leading gallery for contemporary collectible design, is called ‘Moments of Happiness’. The work, composed of multiple borosilicate glass bubbles with an iridescent oil effect that creates an aerial sculpture of aesthetic beauty, is featured at the exhibition ‘Dysfunctional’ at the Galleria Giorgio Franchetti alla Ca’ d’Oro. The artists have for the first time incorporated gold into their work to pay tribute to Piaget’s savoir faire in the working of this precious metal. An invitation to explore the blurred lines between art and design in the context of the rich Venetian heritage. Until 24 November. www.cadoro.org - www.carpentersworkshopgallery.com

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This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Witness to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it (shutterbugs permitting), but even more spectacular when seen from the water, perhaps aboard a gondola. Originally built during medieval times as a pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto Market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. Unfortunately, it is not accessible to everyone; between upward and downward slopes, it includes as many as 120 steps. San Polo, 30125 (access from Ruga dei Oresi or from Salizada Pio X). Vaporetto linea 1,2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

San Giorgio Maggiore Boasting a monastery and an adjoining museum (see Museum listings), the church of San Giorgio Maggiore sits on the little island of San Giorgio Maggiore across from St. Mark's square. One of the masterpieces of Andrea Palladio, the church, and the entire complex, which holds a number of marvelous surprises including a maze, is worth visiting. This small island, that is a part of the


MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

panorama that can be enjoyed from St. Mark's square, is separated from the Giudecca by the lagoon island of La Grazia. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 5227827. Vaporetto line 2 (San Giorgio stop). Map G5

Santa Maria della Salute Generally referred to as “La Salute,” this crown jewel of 17th-century baroque architecture proudly stands at a commercially and aesthetically important point, almost directly opposite the Piazza San Marco, where the Grand Canal empties into the lagoon. Designed by Longhena, whose work was influenced by Palladio, it was constructed to honor the Virgin Mary for delivering Venice from the plague of 1630. On 21 November each year, a popular YOUR ING SINCE 1936® 1936® YOUR TRAVEL TRAVEL ING COMPANION COMPANION religious celebration, marking the official end of the Black Death, is held here. The church is also ® famous for its organ concerts. Open daily 9am12noon/3pm-5.30pm. www.basilicasalutevenezia. M A G A Z I N E it. Fondamenta Salute, 30123. T: 041 2743911. www.where-venice.com www.where-venice.com Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map E5

where Venice WHERE WHEREITALIA ITALIASRL SRL

Via 20154 ViaEzio EzioBiondi, Biondi, 1. 1.Gloriosa 20154 Milano. Milano. Santa Maria dei Frari T:Known --Fax 02 T:02 02349951 349951 Fax 02 33107015 33107015 by the Venetians simply as ‘i Frari’, this info@where-venice.com info@where-venice.com landmark features 17 monumental altars and www.where-venice.com www.where-venice.com

| SIGHTSEEING

The islands

2616 (Campo dei Carmini, Campo Santa Margherita). T: 041 5289420. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop).

Teatro La Fenice Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only strongly associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it is also a stunning feat of architecture. teatrolafenice.it. Ticket office T: 041 2424. San Marco, 1965 (Campo San Fantin). Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E4

WELCOME VENICE WELCOME TO VENICE

Although the whole of Venice lies on an archipelago, an ‘excursion to the islands’ generally means a half-day cruise on a boat to visit the islands of Murano, Torcello and Burano, three charming, small islands, rich in history and tradition. Murano is famous throughout the world for its hand-blown glass (artisanal workshops still display glassmakers at work). Torcello, birthplace of the lagoon, once a thriving town with 8,000 inhabitants, is today a semi-rural island with only 17 permanent residents and two medieval churches that speak poignantly of past glories, and Burano, one of the most photographed sights in the world, thanks to colourful houses reflected in its canals. Burano is also famous for its artisanal lace work and a particular kind of biscuit, which also resembles lace. Find out more

FOR REAL VENETIAN LOVERS A trip to Venice is a unique experience: to make sure it’s unforgettable, here are some insider tips to make the most of your visit.

is the largest church in the city. This medieval

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chorusvenezia.org. Campo dei Frari. T: 041 2750462. MANAGINGVaporetto DIRECTOR line 1, 2, N (San Tomà stop). MANAGING DIRECTOR Daniele Misrachi Map D4 Daniele Misrachi EDITORIAL COORDINATION EDITORIAL COORDINATION Santi Giovanni e Paolo

Alessandra Finzi(redazione@where-venice.com) (redazione@where-venice.com) Alessandra One of theFinzi city’s most important examples MAGAZINE EDITORIAL STAFF Carey Carey Bernitz, of medieval architecture, Santi Bernitz, Giovanni MAGAZINE EDITORIAL STAFF

e ElenaBinda, Binda, Romenathe Brugnerotto advisor, Elena Romena Brugnerotto, Paolo is considered Pantheon(tourist of Venice www.rominvenice.com), Simona P.K. Daviddi, Simona P.K. Elena doges, Peverata, Stefania Vida because allDaviddi, theStefania Venetian starting from Elena Peverata, Vida the 13th century, are buried here,Giudici, together with MAGAZINE ART DIRECTION Elisabetta MAGAZINE ART DIRECTION Giudici, numerous other notableElisabetta personages. www. Joy Lacanlale Joy Lacanlale basilicasantigiovanniepaolo.it. Campo Santi WEB EDITORIAL STAFF Chiara Fonzi (coordination), WEB EDITORIAL STAFF Chiaranote: Fonzi (coordination), Giovanni e Paolo (Please this site might be Fabio (art Giulia Minero (editor) FabioLancini Lancini (art direction), direction), Giulia (editor) marked in Venetian dialect as ‘sanMinero ZaniPolo’ on redazione@where-venice.com redazione@where-venice.com the city’s maps). T: 041 5235913. Vaporetto line ICONOGRAPHY Archivio Where® Italia, Dreamstime, ICONOGRAPHY Archivio Italia, Shutterstock 5.1 (Fondamente NoveWhere® stop, Ospedale Civile Shutterstock stop). Map F3 CARTOGRAPHY CITY MAP: © Where Italia srl. - 2017 CARTOGRAPHY CITY MAP: File © Where Italia srl. - 2017 Original Map by Urban - www.urbanfile.org Original Map by Urban File - Dmitry www.urbanfile.org Scala Contarini del Bovolo Fast Trains Network Map by Goloub Fast Trains NetworkisMap by Dmitrylate Goloub Palazzo Contarini an exquisite, Gothic MARKETING & ADVERTISING Sieva Carolo, building. However, what Sieva makesCarolo, it such a MARKETING & ADVERTISING Isa Faleschini, Marta Mailhac, Rachele Renna, popular attraction wasRachele the addition, Isa Faleschini, Martatoday, Mailhac, Renna,by Paola Zannoni Paola Zannoni (coordination "Welcome to Italy") its architects, in 1499, of an amazing, external PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION, SALES SUPPORT ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell enclosed in a PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION, SALES SUPPORT COORDINATOR Paola Grilli cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural Paola Grilli COORDINATOR ADMINISTRATION Katia Greto beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view ADMINISTRATION Katia Greto that can be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well LOCAL MARKETING Stefano Traine (T: 340 3026288) worthMARKETING a visit. Open Tues-Sun: LOCAL Stefano Traine10am-1.30pm/2pm(T: 340 3026288) 6pm. c/o HOTELwww.scalacontarinidelbovolo.com. RELATION MANAGER Maria Granata (maria.granata@where-venice.com) HOTEL RELATION MANAGER MariaSan Granata Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo. Marco, 4299 (maria.granata@where-venice.com) (Campo Manin, RioCristina San Luca). T: 041 3096605. CUSTOMER SERVICES Garbini, Silvia Maggi CUSTOMER Valentina stop). VaporettoSERVICES line 1 orCristina 2 (San Garbini, Marco Vallaresso REG. TRIB. MILANO No. 174, 28 JUNE 2016 Senatore WHERE® ITALIA Map E4 SRL, ISCRITTO AL ROC No. 20182 DEL 14 SETTEMBRE 2010 DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH REG. TRIB. MILANO No. 174, 28 JUNE 2016 PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPAROC No. 20182 DEL 14 SETTEMBRE 2010 WHERE® ITALIA SRL, ISCRITTO AL LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE BG DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: JARACH Housed in a 16thANDREA century palazzo, it is the seat Although the publisher has made PRINTED GRAPHICSCALVE SPA every effort to include copyright credits, in of anBYancient brotherhood and all itsweoriginal the event of thereFORMELLO, being any errors, oversights or omissions, would LOCALITÀ PONTE 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE BG like to apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published furnishing and a number of priceless oil paintings in the next Although theissue. publisher has made every effort to include copyright credits, in the event been of there being any errors, oversights omissions, we would like to have preserved intact.orThe drama builds apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published inwhen theITALY nextentering issue. IN the Sala del Capitolo, whose

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Where® is also published in Milan by Where®features Italia, in Rome by Tourist Media srl ceiling nine exceptional canvases and in Naples by also IES Comunicazione srl by IN ITALY Where® published in Milan painted by the is brotherhood’s most famous Where® Italia, in Rome by Tourist Media srl member, Giambattista Tiepolo. Open EXCLUSIVE GIFT FROM TOP HOTELS and in Naples by IES Comunicazione srldaily 11amWHERE® VENICE È DISTRIBUITO SOLO NELLE CAMERE DEI MIGLIORI HOTEL DI 5pm. www.scuolagrandecarmini.it. Dorsoduro, VENEZIA E DEL VENETO. WHERE® VENICE IS GIFT AVAILABLE ONLY IN TOP THE ROOMS OF THE MOST EXCLUSIVE EXCLUSIVE FROM HOTELS HOTELS IN VENICE AND IN VENETO. WHERE® VENICE È DISTRIBUITO SOLO NELLE CAMERE DEI MIGLIORI HOTEL DI VENEZIA E DEL VENETO. WHERE® VENICEVISITOR IS AVAILABLEPUBLICATIONS ONLY IN THE ROOMS OF THE MOST EXCLUSIVE MORRIS HOTELS IN VENICE AND IN VENETO.

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02

STREET RULES Many ‘calli’ (streets) in Venice are narrow. Keep to the right and avoid loitering. Make sure to take quick ‘clicks’ on Venice’s bridges especially when they’re crowded.

03

ACQUA ALTA In the event of ‘acqua alta’ (flooding), use the raised walkways provided. Keep to the right and don’t hang around. Don’t step into the water, because it’s dirty.

OBSTRUCTING PUBLIC TRANSPORT

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When travelling on public transport, please respect the other passengers: avoid blocking the entrance or exit, store your bags where the boat staff tells you and remove your backpacks.

BIKES AND OTHERS MEANS OF TRANSPORTATION

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EATING Apart from restaurants, picknicking is forbidden in the area around St. Mark’s Basilica. Website www.where-venice.com features a list of the best restaurants and ‘bacari’ where you can sample delectable Mediterranean cuisine. Please Note: it’s not done to eat ‘gelato’ before lunch and cappuccino is a ‘no no’ in the afternoon.

DRESS It is forbidden to walk around Venice in a bathing costume or bare-chested. Swimming in Venice’s canals is prohibited. The Lido is the go-to place for bathing. Venice is an elegant ‘grand dame’ and a certain dress code is ‘de rigueur’.

In Venice, adults are prohibited from riding bikes or using or carrying kick scooters. Use the parking lots located at the entrance to the city.

VENETIAN SOUVENIR In the midst of its myriad offerings, always make sure to purchase authentic Venetian goods. These include Murano beads, local biscuits, artisanal prints and masks. By purchasing items from local artisans, you’re supporting the Venetian craft industry.

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SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

and buy tickets for your trip to these magical destinations. Visitors love these islands, and there may be a risk of not finding a seat on the boat. See Map page 46

Scuola Grande di San Rocco The headquarters of the San Rocco Brotherhood, this stunning building, to which hardly any modifications have been made, hosts more than 60 masterpieces by artists of the likes of Giorgione, Tiepolo and Titian, still presented in their original layout. Its establishment represented an important moment in the history of 16th century Venetian art, above all thanks to Tintoretto’s famous cycle of Old and New Testament scenes. Open daily, 9.30am-5.30pm. Closed on 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10; Scuola Grande + church €8. www.scuolagrandesanrocco.it. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco stop). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4

MUSEUMS & EXHIBITION SITES Ca’ Pesaro-International Gallery of Modern Art Hosts important 19th and 20th century collections of paintings and sculptures, including masterpieces by Klimt and Chagall as well as noteworthy oeuvres by the likes of Kandinsky, Klee, Matisse and Moore. Other highlights include a rich selection of works by Italian artists and an important selection of graphics. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10. www.capesaro.visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 2076. Vaporetto line 2 (San Stae stop). Map E3

Fondazione Cini-San Giorgio Maggiore Set against the magnificent backdrop of the Basin of St Mark, the Foundation was established in 1951 by Count Vittorio Cini to restore the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore and to create an international centre of cultural activities. The Foundation is housed in the monumental complex of the former Benedictine Monastery of San Giorgio Maggiore, a place of inestimable architectural and artistic prestige, thanks to works by several of Italy’s greatest 16th and 17th century masters. Enlarged in the 16th century by Andrea Palladio, who also designed its refectory,

PH © JOPSSTOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

EDITOR'S TIP

the church of San Giorgio Maggiore and the Cloister of Cypresses, in addition to numerous other treasures, the complex hosts an impressive collection of paintings by Jacopo Tintoretto, as well as several 16th and 17th century works of arts. Guided tours in Italian, English and French on Saturdays and Sundays. For information and booking T: 041 2201215. Full price ticket €10. www.cini.it.Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 2710280. Vaporetto line 2 (Isola di San Giorgio stop). Map G6

Gallerie dell'Accademia di Venezia

VENETIAN MUSEUM HUB Following a Napoleonic decree, the Gallerie dell'Accademia were instituted as an educational adjunct to the Academy of Fine Arts. They host the most important collection of Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo, and works by several important landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The monumental complex hosting these works occupies the ancient church of Santa Maria della Carità, the Scuola Grande della Carità and the Canonici Lateranensi convent complex designed by Andrea Palladio in 1561. Open Mon 8.15am-2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Full ticket price: €9. Ticket pricing may vary during temporary exhibitions. www.gallerieaccademia. it. Dorsoduro 1050 (Campo della Carità). T: 041 5222247. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop). Map D5

Museo Correr The museum is located in the old Royal Palace in St. Mark’s Square and includes the Napoleonic Wing and the Procuratie Nuove. Built to house Teodoro Correr’s collection, it features several exhibition spaces dedicated to the art and history of Venice. These include the neo-classical rooms housing sculptures by Antonio Canova, historic collections describing the changing cityscape of Venice and, finally, the pinacoteca, boasting important masterpieces of Venetian art from its origins to the 16th century. Open daily. www.correr.visitmuve.it. San Marco 52 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2405211. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso stop or, San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 - 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Museo del Vetro (Glass Museum) Housed in the aristocratic palazzo Giustinian, on the island of Murano, the collections exhibited at the museum are arranged in chronological order: in addition to the archaeological section featuring Roman remains from the 1st and 2nd centuries A.D., you can also find an extensive range of historical objet d’art made from Murano glass, including important pieces produced between the 15th and 20th centuries. Open daily. Full price ticket €10. Joint ticket for the Glass Museum + Lace Museum €12. www.museovetro.visitmuve.it. Fondamenta Giustinian, 8. Murano. T: 041 5274718. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2 (Museo Murano stop). Off Map

Museo di San Marco The itinerary that you’ll follow inside the museum, will take you from the historic area above the atrium-narthex of the Basilica and the former Banqueting Hall of the Doges, through the three extensive themes that are a part of the heritage of St. Mark’s Basilica. Particularly noteworthy are the famous gilded bronze horses of St. Marks and the Basilica’s ancient fragments of mosaics. The tour takes visitors through various areas of the Basilica, we therefore suggest wearing attire that is respectful of the religious nature of the Basilica. Open daily 9.45am-4.45pm. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €5. www. museosanmarco.it. San Marco 328 (Procuratoria di San Marco). T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto linee 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 o 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Museo Ebraico di Venezia

JEWISH MUSEUM This a ‘dispersed museum’; a highly unusual urban complex that includes the museum itself, the Ghetto, synagogues and an ancient cemetery. It contains a small but precious collection of artifacts related to the long history of the Jews in Venice. Thanks to guided tours (in Italian and English), you can visit three of the area’s five historic synagogues, located between the Ghetto Vecchio (Old Ghetto) and the Ghetto Nuovo (New Ghetto), and the Old Cemetery (16th-18th century) in San Nicolò del Lido. Finally, to commemorate the tragedy of the Second World War, there is a bronze relief Holocaust Memorial in the Campo

11 MUSEUMS, 1 TICKET The Museum Pass is a combined ticket that offers access to all the permanent collections of Venice’s civic and affiliated museums. The Pass is valid for 6 months and allows one entry per museum site. Full price ticket €24 > This ticket is valid for: the Museum of St Mark's Square (Doge's Palace, Museo Correr, Museo Archeologico Nazionale, Monumental Rooms of the Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana), Ca' Rezzonico-Museum of 18th-Century Art, Museum of Palazzo Mocenigo and Museum of Textiles and Costumes, Carlo Goldoni's House, Ca' Pesaro-International Gallery of Modern Art + Oriental Art Museum, Glass Museum in Murano, Lace Museum in Burano and Museum of Natural History.

Museo Correr 42 W H E R E V E N I C E I N O V E M B E R 2019

Info & Reservations: www.visitmuve.it Call center 848 082000. From abroad +39 041 42730892.


MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

del Ghetto Nuovo. Full price ticket €4; Jewish Museum + guided tour of the synagogues : full price ticket €10. www.museoebraico.it. Cannaregio 2902\b. T: 041 71535. Vaporetto lines 1-2 (San Marcuola-Ghetto stop), lines 41-42-51-52 (Ponte delle Guglie-Ghetto stop). Map D2

| SIGHTSEEING

Peggy Guggenheim Collection

Palazzo Ducale

© SOLOMON R. GUGGENHEIM FOUNDATION, NEW YORK.

A landmark attraction, a masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, the Ducal Palace features a number of different architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it not only houses temporary exhibitions but can also be visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. The public entrance is through the ‘Porta del Frumento’ which leads to the spacious council rooms and then onwards to the exquisite rooms of the Doge’s Apartment. Other highlights on this route include the prisons and loggias overlooking the square and the lagoon. Open daily. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve. it. San Marco, 1 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti), 5.1 or 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Palazzo Grassi-Punta della Dogana Overlooking the Grand Canal and recently restored by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, Venice’s 18th century Palazzo Grassi and the former harbour of Punta della Dogana are two contemporary art museums funded by the François Pinault Foundation. They host important collective or monographic exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault Collection, one of the world’s largest collections of contemporary art. Palazzo Grassi’s ‘Teatrino’, an adjunct to the exhibition spaces, offers an action packed calendar of conferences, concerts and screenings of an international scope. Open daily 10am7pm. Closed on Tuesdays, 25 December. Full price ticket €18 (Punta della Dogana+Palazzo Grassi). www. palazzograssi.it. T: 041 2001057. Palazzo Grassi San Marco 3231 (Campo San Samuele). Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop), 1 (Sant’Angelo stop). Map D4 • Museo Punta della Dogana Dorsoduro 2. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map F5

Palazzo Mocenigo-Centro Studi di Storia del Tessuto e del Costume Formerly a patrician residence, in 1985 it became the Study Centre of the History of Fabrics and Costumes. Its exhibition spaces explore various aspects of the lives and activities of Venetian aristocrats between the 17th and 18th centuries. The exhibits on display include opulent garments and oldenday accessories, with a section dedicated to perfume. The palazzo’s furnishings and paintings have been integrated with a number of works originating from the warehouses of Venice’s civic museums. Open from 1 April to 31 October: 10am-5pm; from 1 November to 31 March: 10am-4pm. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €8. www.mocenigo.visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 1992. T: 041 721798. Vaporetto line 1 (San Stae stop). Map E3

Located on the left-hand side of the Grand Canal, just beyond the Church of the Madonna della Salute, you will come across a building that seems strange and unfinished, but is also elegant and well-tended. The Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, formerly home to the prominent and powerful Venier family, was originally planned to become one of the most sumptuous buildings in Venice. Construction of the palazzo began in or around 1748, but was halted after only one floor was completed. Undeterred by its rather sketchy shape, and upon seeing the palazzo with its beautiful garden, eccentric American heiress Peggy Guggenheim, a lover of modern art, la dolce vita and men, fell in love with it. She purchased Palazzo Venier in 1948, and moved in with her collection of contemporary art, subsequently opening both the palazzo and her extraordinary collection of artworks to the public. In 1980, after her death, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection was bequeathed to the Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation, which also manages the Solomon R. Guggenheim in New York and the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao. In 1985, Palazzo Venier dei Leoni was officially converted into a museum. Today, thanks to its 20th century collection

of art, it is considered one of the most important museums in Europe. The collection includes masterpieces of Cubism, Futurism, European Abstractism, American Abstract Surrealism and Expressionism, as well as works by illustrious artists like Picasso, Pollock, Kandinsky, Miró, de Chirico and Dalí. It also hosts prestigious temporary exhibitions. www.guggenheim-venice.it

SOLOMON R. GUGGENHEIM FONDATION. PHOTO ARCHIVIO CAMERAPHOTO EPOCHE. DONAZIONE, CASSA DI RISPARMIO DI VENEZIA, 2005.

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PH © CATARINA BELOVA / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

ESSENTIALS

Venice, the floating city Some information and invaluable tips to experience the best that this magical city on water has to offer. By Simona P. K. Daviddi

I

talians (at least many of them), may already know that Venice… actually floats! Unlike Amsterdam or Saint Petersburg, it is not just furrowed by canals, bordered by roads and pavements. In Venice, canals are the only available communication route, bearing in mind that part of the city extends over a handful of beautiful islands that are scattered across the Lagoon. For this reason, the lagoon city can only be crossed on foot or by boat. Cars, motorbikes, bicycles and even roller skates are strictly forbidden. But this is not all. At times Venice may find itself... under water! The acqua alta phenomenon – the result of heavy rainfall and high tides - can cause the water level to rise by as much as a meter, forcing everyone to walk on raised plank walkways, or don rain boots (many shops, including tobacconists, sell disposable 44 W H E R E V E N I C E I N O V E M B E R 2019

ones) in order to cross the city’s flooded calli, campielli and salizade. Calli, campielli and salizade are Venetian words used to identify streets, squares and alleys while sestieri is the local word indicating the six districts the city is divided into: San Marco, Dorsoduro, Cannaregio, Santa Croce, San Polo and Castello. This division dates back to the 12th century and also includes areas such as La Giudecca, the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore (San Marco) and the Island of San Michele, home to the city’s cemetery (Castello). Street numbers in each sestiere start from 1 and often reach four figures, for example, one of the last numbers of the sestiere of Castello is 7,000. You need to learn them if you want to find your way through the spectacular, maze-like historic centre.

Venice also has its own network of public... and private transportation: its vaporetti, real waterbuses, are the most popular craft used by locals, which is why they are often very crowded during peak hours. These enginepowered water taxis are able to whiz across the lagoon in a heartbeat, but for those who prefer a unique, incredibly romantic experience, the famous, distinctive gondola is an absolute must. This elegant, black, one-oared rowing boat drifts gently across the water, while its gondolier sings an entire repertoire of traditional Venetian folk songs. It goes without saying that the waters of the canals are not suitable for swimming, and their banks are often slippery. Be careful not to be so focused on your selfie stick that you walk into a canal because you might be in for some rather unpleasant surprises!


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Emergency POLICE T: 113 AMBULANCE T: 118 FIRE BRIGADE T: 115 TRAFFIC POLICE T: 041 2747070 LOST AND FOUND ON VAPORETTI T: 041 2722179 24HOUR PHARMACY: check the display at

UNIQUE | FAST TRAINS NETWORK FROM VENICE

all pharmacies.

Airports INTERNATIONAL MARCO POLO DI TESSERA AIRPORT VCE  Venice’s Marco Polo Airport offers easy access to numerous destinations located in the Veneto region and in Northern Italy, the Canova di Treviso Airport (in Sant’Angelo) and main railway routes. The Marco Polo Airport is situated at a distance of 13 km from Venice (www.veniceairport.it). Trasportation from the Marco Polo Airport to the historic centre of Venice (and vice-versa): • Taxis (15 min. to Piazzale Roma, approximately €40); • water taxis (fast, private motorboats, approximately €80 ). This service is operative 24/24h (Consorzio Motoscafi Venezia www.motoscafivenezia.it. T: 041 5222303). • ATVO shuttle bus (20 min. to Piazzale Roma, €3, luggage included); • ACTV bus no. 5 (30 min. to Piazzale Roma with intermediate stops, €1, luggage excluded); • Alilaguna motorboats (a private service that uses ACTV’s network of docking stations with intermediate stops at strategic points throughout the city. Fares range from 8 to 27 euros). www.alilaguna.it. T: 041 2401701.

Trains FERROVIE DELLO STATO  Trenitalia Railway

Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com. Venice’s Railway Station (Santa Lucia) can be accessed from all main European and Italian cities. The Railway Station overlooks the lagoon and is located just steps from the stops of Venice’s main public transportation lines. E.g.: to reach St. Mark’s Square by vaporetto, take line 1 or 2. Estimated journey time from main Italian cities via high-speed trains, including Frecciarossa, Frecciabianca, Frecciargento, Italo, Thello, Eurocity.

Tourist Information APT - Azienda di promozione Turistica Città

Metropolitana di Venezia (eng.turismovenezia. it/): Palazzetto Carmagnani, San Marco 2637. T: 041 5298711. VENEZIA UNICA  The official tourism website

of the City of Venice (www.veneziaunica.it)

Tourist Card VENEZIA UNICA CITY PASS is an all-in-one pass

that offers unlimited use of public transportation, admission to tourist attractions and cultural events in the city, plus a number of other useful services. You can purchase your card online and customize your Venezia Unica City Pass to suit your individual travel needs (www.veneziaunica.it/en) exchange vouchers. Open daily 9am-4pm. T: 392 6786628.

GETTING AROUND VENICE Because it is a relatively small, compact city (a 45-minute walk from North to South) whose main points of interest are situated just a short distance from each other, visiting Venice on foot is the ideal solution. Vaporetti - An efficient network of water bus routes covers the entire city and includes transportation to the islands.The service is active 24/24h but runs less frequently between 9.30pm and 6am. Landing stages are located at central points around the city (including Piazzale Roma, Rialto, Piazza San Marco…) . Tickets - Although paper tickets are available at main embarkation points and from authorized resellers displaying the ACTV logo, electronic tickets can also be pre-purchased online. ACTV: Piazzale Roma. T: 041 2424. www actv.it. There are 6 different types of tickets, ranging from hourly tickets (€7.50 for a 75’ regular route) to a weekly pass (€60) for unlimited travel on almost all lines. TIP The boat trip from one bank of the Grand Canal to the other costs 2 euro (only cash).You can pre-purchase reducedprice tickets from Venice Connected: www. veniceconnected.com. IMOB smart cards are available at all ACTV ticket offices. Although they allow you to save on official rates, they are only recommended for long-term visits. Gondolas - These traditional craft are among the best-known tourist attraction for those wishing to experience a view of Venice that is anything but pedestrian. They are used almost exclusively by tourists (and Venetians on their wedding days). TIP Before embarking, we suggest that you check official rates

(approximately €80 for 45 minutes and €100 after 7pm). Agree on a price, time limit and singing in advance to avoid unexpected surcharges. Associazione dei Gondolieri T. 041 5285075. www.gondolavenezia.it Traghetti (Ferries) - ‘Traghetti’ are gondolas that cross the Grand Canal in 8 points. ‘Traghetti’ rides cost just €2 for non-residents (for holders of City Pass Venezia Unica or ACTV passes, rides cost 0.70) and operate almost non-stop. Four ferry services operate in Venice. Taxi - Water taxis with a cabin (private water taxis) are available for hire from 16 landing stages, including Lido Aeroporto Marco Polo, piazzale Roma, Ferrovia, Rialto and San Marco, or from your hotel. TIP Although private water taxis can be costly, they are the fastest and most practical means of getting around Venice. Ask your concierge. Car - The city can be accessed from the mainland by car, thanks to an elevated section (a 4km bridge, the longest in Italy, also known as the ‘Translagunare’), with limited parking options at garages in Piazzale Roma or on the Island of Tronchetto. Prices for 24-hour parking cost approximately €30 euro. TIP It’s advisable to travel to Mestre by car (24hour parking costs approximately €15 euro) and then continue on to Venice by public transport. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 45


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Palazzo Fortuny

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Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola RIO

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People Mover Venezia

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People Mover Venezia

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AEROPORTO MARCO POLO

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Museo Di Torcello Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta Chiesa di Santa Fosca

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A

A PIAZZA I S DE BALDASSARRE VA RI GALUPPI

PESCHERIA

CA

NT

I

LL

E

GO

BB

I

Chiesa di San Martino

R IO TE R R À

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OC C. B

ND

DI

Chiesa di Santa Caterina

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MESTRE

FO

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I

LA

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LLO

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RT

E

SC

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INEL N TA P O N T

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O

FONDAME

SA

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14 VIA

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RI

H

UE

G

F

100 m

TORCELLO

BURANO

ISOLA CARBONERA

SAN FRANCESCO DEL DESERTO Convento di San Francesco del Deserto

Parco San Giuliano

ISOLA DI TESSERA

ISOLA SAN GIACOMO IN PALUDE

MURANO 13

Chiesa di San Michele in Isola

TREPORTI

1

ISOLA CAMPALTO STRADA

GE

LO

ZA

NI

OL

EN

AN

AS C

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LL

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LP

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BR

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AME

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BA

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ST

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N

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IA

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LE

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D

C

A

TA

CALL

VI

ER

R

NI

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VE

IU

TA

LO D AL

EN

A

AM

M

ND

E

FO

CAMPO S A N D O N AT O

E

N

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MURANO

DA

D

A DA

MULA

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N

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DELLA

MULA

E FONDA M

RAMO

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F O N D A M E N TA D E I V E T R A I

PESCHERIA

M

M

O

AN

A

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IN

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EN

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ENT

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I

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ORT

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CO

CALLE

Chiesa di San Pietro Martire

CA

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ANTON

N TA

O

SERENELLA

CAVALLINO TREPORTI

Chiesa S. Erasmo

NTI

RE

Chiesa dei Santi Maria e Donato

CRISTO

FONDAMENTA

GN

CAMPIELLO SAN GIUSEPPE

O

DEL CALLE

CALLE

MA

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CAMPO SAN BERNARDO

BAROVIER CALLE

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LL

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CAL CA

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Santa Maria degli Angeli

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NV

E

SA

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PORTO MARGHERA

LL

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ER

ORTES

IA

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LA

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EL

RIO

CALLE

D

M

LE

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Cimitero Nuovo

A

TO

COLORATA CA

VI

ISOLA SAN GIORGIO

VIA

MASENA

Apostoli Santi

DEI

SANT'ANTONIO

CASTELLO

C. D EL

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LE

CAR

SO

GEN

ERA

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XXIV M AGG

IO

CALLE MONT E PA S U B I O

CH

LE

INO

TTO

C.

SS

CAL

GN

A

Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo

Sant'Elena

F.

PA

ZU

Japan Pavilion

CO

CAPPUCCINE

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CALLE

ORTI DEGLI

E

RN

AR

SANT'ELENA

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O

Aeroporto Nicelli Venezia Lido

ER

CA

N

LL CA

LL

SA

CA

E

Teatro Verde

A

CALLE MASSA C. DE LE MOSCHETE

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DELLA

CALLE

CALLE

CAPPELLO

CALLE DEL FO

RAMO

CALLE

MAGNO CALLE

Nuove

Fondamenta delle

GRECI

Canale

STRETA

CALLE DEI

CALLE DE LA PIETA’

Rio de San Gerolamo

CALLE DEL DOSE

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PESCARIA

DEL

CALLE

CALLE

DEI

FORNI

L’ARSENAL DE

CALLE DEL FORNO

COLONNE CALLE

MAGGIORE

NI

CALLE MONTELLO SAN EL ENA

United States Pavilion

RE

MURAZZO

GIUSTINA

PE

ISEPO

PALUDO

EMB

CALLE ZORZI

FONDAMENTA DEL CRISTO

EP

SAN

PALUDO

E IV NOV

CALLE

SALIZADA

US

TERÀ

CALLE

SAN GIORGIO

I

LA

N

EL

N

AR

VA

VIAL

DOSE DEL CALLE

IO

GR

RT

VI

E

AN

CA

LL

E

MA

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N

VI

TT

OR

IO

VI

VE

AL

NE

RI

VI MA

DI

MO

E

IV

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VE

M

BR

E

Scuola Navale Militare "Francesco Morosini"

TO

Lido S. Nicolo'

SANT’ELENA

R E

RO

G

UE

N

SQ

E

DE

LL

A

FO

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IA

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V

ND

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O

RA

LI

E

RIO CROCE

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G

Rio d el Giardini

dei Rio

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CALLE CALLE

STELLA

SQUERO

CALLE

DEL CALLE

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LA

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Dei

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FONDAMENTAMendicanti

CALLE NAVE

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C.

PARADISO

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DEL

CALLE

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CALLE

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CALLE

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C. DE LA MADONETA

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BO

DEL CALLE

DONZELLA C.

CALLE

BRESSANA

CALLE VERROCCHIO DEL

VENIERA

CALLE

CALLE

CORONA

DELLA

C.

LEONARDO

LA SACRESTIA

C. CORONA

CALLE RIMPETTO

ALBANESI

CALLE DE LE RASSE

CALLE DEL

STAGNERI

NUOVE

CALLE

LA DE

a

CALLE

DE

CATERINA

L’ABAZIA Misericordi

CAMPO

SANTA

della

FOSCARINI

LUNGA

CALLE

CALLE

Canale

MISERICORDIA FOND.

RACHETA LA DE

FELICE

CALLE

I ZZ PO

Dolce

PRIULI

DO

FOORNO

Ca’

GA

DEL

RU

Rio

VELE DE

LE

CALLE

APOSTOLI

CALLE

PISTOR

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DEL

VERDI

CALLE

C.SANT’ANTONIO

RIO TERRÀ

SALIZADA

SOFIA

SANTA

CAMPO

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APRILE II

CALLE

MERCERIA

LOVO DEL CALLE

C. DEI

GIOVANNI

S.G. GRISOSTOMO

SALIZADA

ZULIAN SAN

BALOTE

CALLE

LE DE

PISCINA

CALLE

DRIO

CANNAREGIO

CALLE DEI FUSERI

SALONI

E

LL

FONDAMENTA

GRANDE

GI

N

RIO

AI ZATTERE FONDAMENTA

NUOVE

DELLE

I CASE

CASE

CAPITELO

FONDAMENTA

DEL

PIAVE

CALLE

LARG

CALLE BECCARIE LE DE CALLE

C. ROSA

CONVERTITE

VECCHIO GHETTO

CERERIA

LARGA

CALLE

VECCHIA

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TI,

LA

CALLE

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ET

CALLE

DE

DEL

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CALLE

CALLE

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CALLE

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CALLE

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DEL

RIO TERÀ CAZZA

DEL

SALITA

CALLE

C.

STAE

FORNO DEL

SAN

D’ORO

CA’

LUCIA

C.

CALLE

LARGA

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SANTA

CALLE

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LE DE

CALLE

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CAMPANIEL

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REGINA LA

SALIZADA

DEL

FONDAMENTA

SIMON

DE

CALLE

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DEI CALLE

L’ANZOLO

STUA LA DE

DE

SECONDO

CRISTO

TERA’

CALLE

DEL

RIO

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

CALLE

SAN

MEZZO CALLE

DI

L’ARCHIVIO

FON. DEI TOLENTINI

CAMPIELLO DEL LIBRER

CALLE

ROCCO

SAN

ALBANESI DEI

CALLE

SBIACCA

STRETA

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

DORSODURO SESTIERE FOSCARI CALLE

RAGUSEI

LIPOLI

ORBI DEI

CALLE

MUNEGHE

LE DE

CALLE

GIUSTINIAN

EUFEMIA BEATA CALLE

DEL

RIO TERA’ OGNISANTI

SANGIANTOFFETTI

EREMITE

FONDAMENTA

DEI CORTELLOTTI

FONDAMENTA NANI

FOSCARINI

FONDAMENTA

VENIER

CALLE

DA PONTE

FONDAMENTA

ra

CALLE

LL

CA

SANT'ELENA

MP

CA

O

CA

GE

JUNGHANS

Rio

N

NO

SA

I

TA

Le Zitelle

E

Parco delle Rimembranze LL

SANT'ELENA

EN

TI

AM

C

D

BO

N

LI

LL

SA

TE

BB

ZI

TA

E

EN

NT

IE

FONDAMENTA

MP

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AM

CA

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M

LL

IN

ND

E

CA

C.

OC

Santa Croce

VIALE PIAVE

CR

RD

CALLE

SA

CALLE

IA

PONTE

TA

San Giuseppe di Castello

Russia Pavilion

G

CALLE

EN

E

CORTE

AM

ND

AL

FIANCO

FO

CAMPO SAN ISEPO Giardini

S. Giorgio

VI

SAN GIACOMO

CENETTE

PIETRO CORTELIESINA DA

ALDI

CALLE

O

ACCADEMIA

A

IST

LL

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CE

R L C

IB PE GAR

DE

NA

ION

FONDAMENTA

SAN PIETRO DI CASTELLO

QUINTAVALLE CALLE

POLACCA

CALLE

C.

RI

MA

BB

IAN

RE

TA

ROSA

SALAMON

CALLE

SA

RI

CO

C.

GIUSEP

SARES

O E ANC

DOMENICO CALLE SAN

VIALE

CALL

TI

CALLE

COPPO

SCHIAVONA

AR

CALLE CORERA

CALLE

M

Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore

LARGA

MARAFONI

CALLE

SANT'ANNA

SE

C A L L E C ATA PA N

TE

Basilica di San Pietro di Castello CALLE

CALLE TERCO

F O N D A M E N TA

OSPIZIO

CALLE

LA CERTOSA

Vergini

FOND. SAN GIOACCHIN

AN

CALLE

I

EL

CALLE

de le

N TA R I O D E L L A TA NA

CH

FONDAMENTA

LE

San Francesco di Paola BALD CALLE

I S ET

CALLE DELL’ANGELO

DELFINA

GRIMANI

DE

OLO C A L L E G I A N B AT T I S TA T I E P

CALLE

CALLE

NUOVA

DEI PRETI

EN

CROCE

MI

Ponte

ENA

COLTRERA

CALLE

CALLE

GARI

EPPE

CALLE FRIZIER

AM

DELLA

E

ERBE

ARS

NALE

FONDAME

IUS VIA G

VA

C. LOREDANA

ND

CALLE

LL

LE

E N TA

TA A R SE

LA TANA

CALLE

FO

CALLE ALBERO

DE

RAMO DE

Punta della Dogana

FO

Redentore

O

Santissimo Redentore

CALLE MORE

del

AMEN

TANA

CALLE

SAN GI ACOM

CA

CAMPO

CALLE

FOND

DE LA

CROSERA

M E N TA

Giardino delle Vergini

Rio

DAM

La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale

CAMPO

ISOLA DI

GIUDECCA FONDA

VIDA

CALLE

PICCOLO

LA

CASTELLO

PONTE

PALLADA

SCUOLA

DEI

DE

Museo Storico Navale di Venezia

DI

FONDAMENTA

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese

FON

FONDAMENTA ARSENALOTTI

CALLE

CALLE DELA CREA

Zitelle

IA

La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale

Arsenale di Venezia

San Martino

DEI FORNI

PIETRO

FEM

NUOVE

CASTELLO

L’ANZOLO

Arsenale di Venezia RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA

MOROSINA

SAN

'EU

MARTIN

PESTRIN

CALLE

RUGA VECCHIA

FORNACE

SALONI

NT

SCUOLA

CELESTIA

DONA

DE

GRITTI CALLE

C. VOLTO

TERRÀ

SA

CALLE

CALLE

CROSERA

CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO

CATECUMENI

RIO

TA

CASTELLO CASE

DELLA

CALLE

CALLE DE

SAN PISCINA

PIGNATER

FONDAMENTA

Spirito Santo

Giudecca Palanca EN

SESTIERE

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA

DE L’OGIO

L’ARCO

CALLE

ONI

DEL PIOVAN

RIO TERRÀ

FONDAMENTA

DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO

AM

DE

SALIZADA

FONDAMENTA

Moise

DEL TRAGHETTO

MARTIRI

San

CALLE

RIDOTTO

TREDICI

Rio

CALLE

VALLARESSO

CALLE

CALLE

SARTOR

FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN

ND

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI

CALLE

S C H I AV

BASTION

C. DEL

ASCENSIONE

DEI PUTI

FO

COSMO

ANTONIN

DE

ZATTERE

FO

Sant'Eufemia

NUOVE

SECONDO SAGRADO

CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA CORTE DEL MORION

CORTE DELLE GATE

SAN

CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO

San Giovanni Battista in Bragora

R I VA D EGLI S. Zaccaria (Pieta')

Arsenale

BIAGIO

CALLE

CASE

RAMO

CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA

CORTE SACCA

SCUDI

LARGA

CALLE

SEBASTIAN

SAN

CONVERTITE

San Francesco della Vigna

FRANCESCO

SANTA GIUSTINA

CALLE DEI FURLANI

SALIZADA

CALLE TERAZZERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’

Santa Maria della Pietà VONI

100 m

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

SAN

SALIZADA

DEL

CALLE

SAN

CALLE DEL PESTRIN

TERRÀ

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA

San Giovanni di Malta

San Giorgio dei Greci

San Zaccaria

SCHIA

S. Zaccaria (Danieli)

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

SALUTE

LAVRANERI

ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

ZON

CALLE SAN LORENZO

CALLE LION

DEGLI

DEGLI

CALLE BOSELLO

VERONA

RIO

CALLE

San Lorenzo

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

VIN CALLE DEL

Palazzo

CAVALLETTO

ORSEOLO

FONDAMENTA DEL VIN

DEL

SOTO E CORTE NOVA

Rio Del

C.

LA

MINELLI

PISCINA

DEL NOVA ISOLA

PORTO

FONDAMENTA

Scomenze

MARITTIMO

Canale

De

F. CONDULMER

DIREZIONE

MARITTIMO

CERERIA LA

PORTO

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA

DEL CAFETIER

CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA

DE L’OSMARIN FONDAMENTA

CAMPO SAN PROVOLO

O

CALLE

SPECHIERI

SPADARIA

FABBRI

FONDAMENTA

DE

San Gregorio

CALLE

DEI PRETI

CALLE

CALLE

GATE

ZORZI

DRASI

DE

CALLE

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

CORTE NOVA

SALIZADA

C. PIANTON

R I VA

DE LE

CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO

CALLE

DEI

DEI

C.

CALLE

S. SAMUELE

PESTRIN

RC

SALIZADA

C.

LATERANO

SEVERO

a

Santa Maria del Pianto

DE LE TOLE

FONDAMENTA GIOVANNI

CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO

SAN

CALLE

CALLE

C. DE LE COLONNE

DELL’OROLOGIO

DEL

PISCINA

VERONA

A N M

BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO

GIUFFA

CASSELERIA

CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO

SA

MEZO

DE CALLE

RUGA

DIREZIONE

BARBARIA

SAN

CORTE

NUOVA

REMEDIO

San Giovanni Novo

MARCO

CANONICA DE LA

Palazzo Ducale

LO

P U N TA S A B B I O N I

NOVE

Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto

CORTE TREVISAN

Palazzo Querini Stampalia

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

DEL

SAN

O

SCHIAVONI

DEGLI

LE VIGNOLE

FONDAMENTA

San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti

Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo

Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo

CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

FORNO

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani

BANDE

CORTE

CALLE

LARGA

CALLE

RC

CALLE ERIZZO

DE LE

FRUTARIOLI

CALLE DEL FIGHER

CALLE

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

Basilica di San Marco

MA

MO

RIVA

Rio San Lorenzo

CALLE

DEL FORNO

BALONI

CAPPELLO

SAN

FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO

LIO

MARZARIA

REDIVO

CALLE GOLDONI

CALLE

Marittim

G. GALLINA

DEL

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

TASCA

CORTE

C.DEI

BIANCA CALLE

ZZA

Museo Correr

FONDAMENTA

O MUSSATO CALLE

ZULIAN

CORTE TORRETTA

PIA

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

SAN

FABBRI

LARGA

LARGA

DE LE ERBE

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

SALIZADA

DEI

CALLE

CALLE

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

LIO

San Giuliano

SAN

PIGNOLI

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

ORBI

LUCATELLO

MARZARIA DEI

BERLENDIS

CORTE NOVA

CALLE GABRIELI

DRIO CALLE LE SCUOLE

CALLE

CALLE

LICINI

MEZO

C.

CORTE GRAGOLINA

Bacino Orseolo

DEI

CALLE

PISCOPIA

CARBON

Salvador

DEL

San

CALLE

Rio

LA

CAMPO DELLA SALUTE

Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

CALLE DEL BASTION

RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO

NOVE

CALLE

CORTE CORTESE

CAMPIELLO STELLA CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

CASTELLI

PIOMBO

D. PALLE

CORTE

RUBBI

DE

BOTERI

VARISCO

CALLE

CALLE DEL C.MARTINENGO

C. LARGA

CORTE

CALLE

CAPITELLO

BALOTE

GALLO

CALLE CAMPO SAN GALLO

CALLE

BEMBO

CALLE

DE

DE LA SACA

CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO

CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO

O

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN

CALLE

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

MIRACOLI

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

CAMPO

DE LA FAVA

CALICE

DEL

TAGIAPIERA

LE

GRAGOLINA LE COLONNE DE

SAN

FONDAMENTA

Spirito Santo CALLE

DEI LAVRANERI

San Gerardo

BIAGIO

DEI

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

DEI

SAN

GALIAZZO

C. DEL

SALVADOR

MARZARIA

CORTE C.DEL TRAMONTIN

C.DE

STRAZZE TERÀ RIO

Ca' Giustinian

Salute

PONTE

SACCA SAN

FONDAMENTE

LARGA

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

C O RT E B ATA G I A

WIDMANN

RIO

GIAZZO

CAMPO

SALIZADA

SAN

DELLE

CARRO

VENEZIA

CALLE

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

CAL RAMO

S.Canciano

CALLE

SAN LIO

C. DEL

SABION

C.

C.

DEL

PRIMO RAMOCONTARINA CORTE

San Moisè

REMER

CALLE

C.

MANDOLA

AVVOCATI

TERÀ

MAGAZZINI

VOLTI

VENIER

CORTE DEL REMER

FRUTARIOL

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

Teatro Malibran

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

X

CORTE DEL

MARZARIA

MAGAZEN

FRUTARIOL

CALLE

CORTE BAROZZI

O DEL

CINQUE

RIO

CALLE

AI

DEI

C.

DEL

FREZZERIA

CAMPO SAN MOISE’

COCCO

TOSCANA

GRIMANI

CAVALLI

DE

MOISE’

CALLE

DE

CALLE

CALLE

CORNER

LUCA

DEL

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

SA PISCINA

XXII MARZO

RI

Palazzo Genovese

CASTELLO

CALLE

CALLE

Stazione

ORESI

MADONA

SAN

CALLE

PISCINA

LA CHIESA

DRIO

LARGA

CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

SESTIERE

DEI

PARANGON

RUGA

DE LA

FORNO

RAMO

CALLE

Palazzo Pisani Gritti

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim

DEL FORNO

MAZZINI

San Salvador

TEATRO

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

CORTE

MICHIEL

SAN CANZIAN

FONTEGO

PIO

DEL CALLE

LOCANDE

ASSASSINI

San Fantin

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

Santa Maria del Giglio

CHIESA

CALLE DEL NAVARO

C. DEL

SALIZZADA

TEATRO

CALLE

CORTE

SAN SALVADOR

CORTE DEL

Palazzo Nervi Scattolin

CAMPO MANIN

PATERNIN

MANDOLA

TERÀ

RIO

Teatro la Fenice Maria del Giglio

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto

Rialto

LARGA

DEL

DELLA

SALIZADA

FONDAMENTA

CALLE CALLE

BARBA

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

San Giacomo di Rialto

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

CALLE

SAN CALLE

MARCO

CAFETIER

CAOTORTA

Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

CAPPUZZI

SANTO

ZEN

SARTORI

TERÀ

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

FABBRICHE

CALLE

DOLERA

SPIRITO

CAMPO DEI GESUITI

FONDAMENTA

FOND.

RIO

SALIZADA

LE

CALLE

zera

CATERINA

CALLE

GALIZZI

RIELO

SPORCA CALLE PAZIENZE DE LE

LORENZO

FONDAMENTA

C. SAN

SCOAZZERA DE LA

LE PAZIENZE

ALLO

Chiesa dei Gesuiti

SANTA

San Giovanni Grisostomo

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Teatro Carlo Goldoni

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

TEATRO

CALLE

DEL

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

San MaurizioSanta

Canal Grande

CALLE

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

Giudecca Hilton

CATENE

S.ANDREA

PRIULI

NOVA

PESCARIA

Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)

S.Silvestro

DEL

CALLE

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

Santo Stefano

CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

ZATTERE

VAPORETTO

FONDAMENTA

FONDAMENTA

Santa Sofia

STRADA

San Silvestro

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

Palazzo Grimani

San Beneto San Luca

NARISI

BOTEGHE

CAMPO PISANI

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

AI GESUATI

Zattere

NOVE

CALLE

CAMPO DELLA

RAVANO

STURION

C. DE

RIO TERA’

L' ARZERE

GUARDIANI

DE

TODESCHI

CALLE

CANAL RIO TERA’

C. DEI

LE

FOND.

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

STUA

BECARIE

DEL

RUGHETA

DEI

DE

CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

C.SANT'AGNESE

NANI

ZATTERE

DEL

LA

CAMPO DE LA

DEL SOL

DEL

ROSSA

nde Canal Gra

FONDAMENTA

RAGUSEI

FONDAMENTA

CROSERA

CALLE

DEL PISTOR

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

FONDAMENTE

Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana

CAMPIELLO DEL SANSONI

CAMPIELLO

C.

FOND.

SAN

CROSERA

San Vidal

Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione

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VENDRAMIN

MUTI

CAMPO SAN APONAL

CALLE

CALLE

CA’

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Sant’Aponal PERDON

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de r an

CAMPO SAN BENETO CALLE

TRAGHETTO

CAMPO SAN TROVASO

LA

CARAMPANE

DEL

DEL

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LE

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

SAMUELE

Palazzo Loredan

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

LONGO

IA

DE

DE

Palazzo Fortuny

DI SAN MARCO

CALLE

CAZZIOLA

San Trovaso

OGNISANTI

CA'

DEL

DE DE

CARAMPANE

TERÀ

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

SESTIERE

S.

CARROZZE

al G

Sant'Angelo

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LEZZE SALIZADA

LE

Abazia della Misericordia D

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San Cassiano CALLE CALLE

RIO

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

TRAGHETTO

DE

O

San Felice

TIOZZI

CAMPO SAN CASSAN

L’AGNELLA

Can

DEL

FOND.

PONTE

IC

CALLE

DEI

DE

Palazzo Querini-Dubois

CA’ CORTE

DE

Accademia

Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia

BEATE GIULIANA

SACCA

FISOLA

LARGA

ER

d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro

CALLE

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

C.

CORTE DEL TEATRO

CAMPO SAN POLO

CALLE RAMO

CALLE

S. Samuele

FALIER

ZATTERE AL

CALLE CHIESA

IS

TRAPOLIN

DE

Santa Fosca

S.Stae

DE

SCALETER

Palazzo Giustinian Persico

S. Toma' SX

Palazzo Grassi San Samuele

CALLE

FODAMENTA

S. Basilio

DELLA

M

FONDAMENTA

San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale

CALLE CA’BONVINCINI

DEL

San Tomà

Ca' Rezzonico

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Giudecca Hilton FONDAMENTO CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO

CALLE

CONTARINI

dell'Orto

TA

NA

La Maddalena

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TENTOR

BOLDO

C.

EN

TRON

DEL

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SAN

AM

SOTOPORTEGO

C.

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

CAMPO SAN TOMÀ CALLE

FONDAMENTA

DIETRO

C.

MEZO

CAMPO

ZANE

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

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D

MORETTI

DE

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SAN POLO

CAMPO DEI FRARI

CROSERA

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI

N

FONDAMENTA

CAMPO SAN STIN

TOMÀ

CALLE

Ca' Rezzonico

FONDAMENTA

Madonna

MORI

CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE

L

CALLE

Rio Nuovo

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PRETI

San Barnaba

NA

CALLE

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CAMPO SAN ROCCO

DEI

L’ASEO

CA

DONZELA

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DE

CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA

LE

ALE

LA

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

NIE

DD

DE

PAPADOPOLI

TERÀ

CALLE

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

RIO

Basilica dei Frari

San Rocco

Muneghete

RENIER

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MA

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CALLE DE LA LACA

le

PANTALON

CAMPO SAN PANTALON

DEL

CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA

LA

Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

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CALLE

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de

San Pantalon

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CALLE

INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON

DE OGNISANTI

DEI

FO

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C.

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FONDAMENTA

DEI

LA

CALLE DELL'OLIO

FON.

DE

LA

RAMO

CIMESIN

NUOVO

Chiesa di Ognissanti

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Misericordia

FO de Servi N

TER

Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

L’ISOLA

OCHE

C.VENZATO

LA

TINTOR

CALLE

DE

DE LA VIDA

DEL

Bacino

TERA’

RAMO

CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO CALLE

DEI

LIBERTÀ

VECCHIO BERGAMASCHI

SIMEONE

Scomen

RIO

BARI

DELLA

SAN

TRAGHETTO CALLE

Canale

CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

San Giacomo dall'Orio

RUGA BELA

CALLE ORSETTI

DE

CALLE

C. CAMPAZZO DE

CALLE

Rio

BASEGO

RIO

CAMPO DEI CARMINI

della

Rio

RIO DIETRO TERÀ LA CHIESA

Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola

CALLE CAZZA

CALLE SAVIO

RUGA VECCHIA

DEI

LUNA

RAMO

CALLE

Carmini

Santa Maria dei Carmini

Rio

CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA

DEL REMER

BARI

CAMPO

CANAL CORTE

LA

DEI AMAI

SALIZADA

del

CALLE DE LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN BESAGIO

IA

CALLE

C.

BESAGIO

RD

R

San Marcuola

CAMPIELLO

BIASIO

DI

RIVA

LISTA

FONDAMENTA

Soranzo Cappello

DE CAMPO

MINOTTO

Magazen

SAN

Rio

SAN

NAZARIO Palazzo FONDAMENTA SAURO Soranzo Capello GARZOTTI

Giardino di Palazzo

NUOVE

San Nicola da Tolentino

Del

Rio dei Tolentini

FONDAMENTA

CALLE CONTARINA

BRIATI

DORSODURO

San Sebastiano SALIZADA

San Simeone Profeta

NUOVA

CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO

CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN

CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO

LARGA

PONTE CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL

C.

Angelo Raffaele

DORSODURO

ICO

RIO

nde l Gra Cana Riva de Biaso

CALLE

CASE

CALLE

CERERI

FONDAMENTA

LARDONI

della

CAMPO FONDAMENTA DEI MORI

ER

VECCHIO

TRONCHETTO

SPAGNA

TERÀ

FONDAMENTA

Ferrovia

LUNGA

PROCURATIE

DEI

CALLE

RIZZI FONDAMENTA

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

CORTE

FONDAMENTA

Rio

PENSIERI

DE L’OGIO

I CALLE ORSETT

DEI

DEI FONTEGHERI

CALLE

MIS

NOVA

MISERICORDIA

DI LISTA RIO

DEI Ponte degli Scalzi

FONDAMENTA

San Simeon Piccolo

CROCE

C. LAVADORI SANT'ANDREA

TABACCHI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

SAN MICHELE

DELL'ORTO

TA

E DEL PISTO

STRADA

LA

TERÀ

TERÀ

MADONA

Madonna dell'Orto

MADONNA

A

EN

CALL

San Leonardo

San Geremia

DE

RIO

LA

AM

I

CALLE TRAGHETTO

CALLE

LA

Giardino Papadopoli

PIAZZALE ROMA RIO

FABBRICA FONDAMENTA

DE

CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI

LER

NA

CROCE

CALLE

NICOLO’

NS

Rio

ER LE P

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SAN LEONARDO

CAMPO SAN GEREMIA

CAVALLETTI

Ferrovia

Ferrovia

Sant'Andrea

SANT'ANDREA

SAN

San Nicolò dei Mendicoli

CALLE

SE

ND

Museo Ebraico CAL

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SCALZI

TERÀ

MARTA

Istituto Universitario Di Architettura

CALLE SAN BASILIO

CAMPIELLO P I AV E

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TA

FO

Santa Maria di Nazareth

P.le Roma

Ponte della Costituzione FO.

RIO

People Mover Venezia

SANTA FONDAMENTA

MATTA DI CA’

CALLE CASE NUOVE

EN

CANNAREGIO

SE

AI

People Mover Venezia

S A N TA

CAMPIELLO LONGHI

CALLE

AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO

AM

San Girolamo

CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO

PRIULI

Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia

ITTICO MERCATO DIREZIONE

TRONCHETTO

Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo

Sant'Alvise

CAMPO S A N T ' A LV I S E

ND

INE

CALLE

ZZ

A E M

CALLE

TRONCHETTO

Parcheggio Bus Turistici

VENEZIA

di Sant'Alvise

Sensa FO

PU

SAVORGNAN

FONDAMENTA

CA

DEL

LE

O

CALLE

DE

AM

MATTIA

TA

OL

SAN

EN

LL

NOVA DEL

AM

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CA

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People Mover Venezia

ND

SA

Palazzo Nani FONDAMENTA

L’ARCO

TA

LLO

CALLE

FO

EN

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Palazzo Labia Parco Savorgnan Salone del Tiepolo

DOGE

AM

B AT

CALLE

ND

TA

CAMPIELLO TRAGHETTO

FORNER

EN

SEBASTIANO

DEL

AM

CANNAREGIO

di Cannaregio

BRAGADIN

CALLE

ND

della

COLETTI

FO

Canale

GIOBBE

CAMPO SAFFA

DE

Rio

CARLO

FO

FONDAMENTA

SAN

San Giobbe

SAN

Rio

FOND.A

Ponte dei Tre Archi

FONDAMENTA

VENIER FONDAMENTA

PENITENTI

CANNAREGIO

DEL SABION

LARGA

FONDAMENTA

CAMPIELLO DEL SCARLATTO

VECCHIA

Monastero "Villa Groggia" Carmelitane Scalze

ROLAMO SACCA SAN GI

CALLE

Santa Maria delle Penitenti

CAMPIELLO DE LA LAVANDER

FONDAMENTA

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TA’

CORTE

ER

RUGA

Parco

B

SANT'AGNESE

LI

BRAGADIN

LA

PISCINA

EL

NUOVA ISOLA DEL TRONCHETTO

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Chiesa di San Michele in Isola

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Convento Delle Figlie Del Cuore Di Gesu'

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Monastero Armeno Mechitarista

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Palazzo del cinema del Lido di Venezia VI

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Scuola Navale Militare "Francesco Morosini"

SANT’ELENA

DI SAN ROCCO

10 SAN GIORGIO MAGGIORE

7

15 TORCELLO

H

6

S. Servolo

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L


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