The Hair of a Different Kind of Dog

By Ben Hamburger

Ya Ka Mein from John & Mary Food Store

In New Orleans, versions of ya ka mein are as varied as the spelling of its name, but the dish is well known to get rid of a hangover. Its blend of Creole and Asian flavors is a classic example of the understated fusion that makes New Orleans food awesome. While ya ka mein is unique to New Orleans, the concoction is akin to many global dishes known for their rejuvenating properties (think Vietnamese pho, Mexican menudo, etc.).

At John & Mary Food Store, owners Cuong Tran and Trang Nguyen offer a menu of typical hot plate lunch items, banh mis, and a ya ka mein recipe that they have been making for 20 years. Made with your choice of proteins, the broth is spicy and salty with a deep onion and meat flavor that comes from hours of simmering. The noodles are plump, perfect for slurping, and the egg is hard boiled to perfection. The pork is char siu style, sliced thin with that pretty red border adding a glossy pink tinge to the bowl. Crisp scallions top off a dish that is as goodlooking as it is tasty.

As is often the case in New Orleans, this unassuming neighborhood shop is run by folks who take pride in serving food that is delicious, quick, and affordable. John & Mary Food Store is just a block from Bayou St. John, so, for the full package, take a quick walk and enjoy your ya ka mein waterside. As the electrolyte-rich broth and bayou breeze work their magic, your headache and questionable decisions from the night prior should gently drift downstream.