Iris Van Herpen & Hussein Iris Van Chalayan
Herpen & “There is beauty in the Hussein unknown, or in knowing Chalayan that there is something there that I cannot physically see or
"An investigation of how architecture and the importance of intricacy is portrayed that creates within the experience work of Iris Van Herpen and the work of Hussein Chalayan"
space for imagination"
Influenced by the structure and intricacy of architecture...... The objective of my essay is to explore multiple collections of Iris Van Herpen and how her specific collections relate to architecture and how she is influenced by the structure and intricacy of architecture. Iris states that “there is beauty in the unknown” which is portrayed within Iris’s work and is very evident through her collections and pieces. Her work is deeply rooted within nature, water and air and these elements leave traces within her sensational garments. As Iris is captivated by architecture and how we embody space and inhibit sculpture she recognizes both fashion and architecture as an expression of self. As a Dutch fashion designer, she is widely recognized as one of fashions most talented and forward-thinking creators. I will explore how iris uses the beauty within the unknown to create something meaningful.
The second objective of my essay is to explore how Hussein Chalayan’s collections are inspired by incorporating elements of contemporary interiors, urban architecture, and geometric structures. Hussein is known for being a “big thinker” and his work endlessly future gazing garments, his approach is to produce a series of wearable devices that detect your emotions and then project these for the outside world to see. Within Hussein’s work he addresses the idea of repressed emotions whilst still being able to explore the everyday anxieties and emotions. His work is hugely based upon storytelling and each piece contains a “narrative” in Hussein’s words “my starting point is always the story”. Hussein is a Turkish Cypriot/ British fashion designer whom back in 2006 won designer of the year and was awarded an MBE, is mainly recognized for being one of fashions most experimental and innovative designers. One of Hussein’s best-known designs includes the coffee table which turned into a wooden skirt & his paper dresses which folded into envelopes, inspired by architecture, nature, and sculpture. I will explore how infusing intellectual and artistic elements into his designs and having a clear fascination with architecture is portrayed within his work which has been created into beautiful yet innovative designs.
"Just before I jump out of the plane, all my energy is concentrated in my body, I can feel every fiber, and my mind is not working any more, it is the best reset of body and mind, once I’m safely on the ground I feel born again�.
The Skeleton dress "Fall 2011 Capriole Collection "
"The Skeleton Dress"
. The
overall shape of Iris skeleton dress is odd
with no ridged edges all smoothed around into one another, with a variety of different textures included, for example some parts of the dress are bulky and have a certain strong thickness to them creating the outer layers of the dress, whereas some of the textures involved in creating the intricacy of the dress are loopy and interlinking into the outer layers
"The Skeleton Dress"
of the dress. “just before I jump out of the Firstly, the piece of Iris work I will analyze is her “skeleton dress” which was displayed for iris Van Herpens Fall 2011 “Capriole” collection. Defying conventional notions of any wearability this strapless ridged dress wrapped around the models’ body like a bony carapace, not flexing for the models moving body. Iris also challenges the standard controversial approach as she utilizes both new technologies and hand crafting techniques in order to create this intricate sculptural design. The form and the style of this dress in particular to Iris collection “Capriole” is a subtle outlook to the eye of its viewers with a yellowed tinge to the dress, the dress looks to have a porous surface with embedded dirt into it creating a very minimal simple color scheme.
plane, all my energy is concentrated in my body, I can feel every fiber, and my mind is not working any more, it is the best reset of body and mind, once I’m safely on the ground I feel born again”. Secondly the “skeleton dress” content is important to this piece of iris in particular as it challenges the standard controversial approach where the subject of the piece is to evoke and to reset the body and the mind, for example the meaning of the word “capriole” if from the French term “leap in the air” where this dress shows a reflection of the existential extremes between body and the mind. The subject of the dress from Iris perspective is that “the dress visualizes the inside of the body outside” and to her the dress represents freedom and the imperfection where between these two the beauty is found.
The hidden aspects of the intricacy involved within her skeleton dress make this a personal favorite as this is a personal importance to her as it has created a “new kind of beauty” with her novel way of working combined with the traditional sartorial practices with latest technologies. The process of this piece in particular is fascinating as it was so unseen within the fashion industry before, for example instead of using traditional sewing techniques, iris turned towards a 3-d printing process also known as selective laser sintering. The skeleton dress was made by starting within an enclosed environment filled with nitrogen gas, the nylon powder was then spread across the surface of the build platform and fused together by a laser into a computer generated shape previously drawn. This process is then repeated several times but particularly within the collection and the skeleton it set off with working with the architecture Isaie Bloch by making a range of 3d prints which were mixed with fabric materials to produce startling results. The mood in particular to the skeleton dress for me portrays the sense of identity combined with desire to show the viewer something different but very creative. As I viewer I feel that Iris has set a mood to make her audience captivated and the need to ask more questions about the piece. The mood created shows that this piece is an expression of art and looking into more detail and further into the dress itself feel a sense of empowerment as it differs and completely opposes the general work we usually see on catwalks. Looking at “skeleton dress” captures the sense of unimaginable as the craftmanship and technologies involved go beyond the ordinary possibilities. Finally, the context of is very out of the ordinary due to the collaboration with architecture which had been unseen and an untouched idea by any other designer, the work in particular was deeply rooted within nature and mainly captivated by architecture itself, Furthermore this lead to the skeleton dress being created at the metropolitan museum of art.
Sensory SAES
Spring/Summer Couture Collection.
Secondly, one of Iris Van Herpen more controversial collections would be her “sensory seas” for example this holds a microscope over the indelible nuances between anthropology of a marine organism. This collection explores humane central nervous system in microscopic detailing and dives deep of the hydrozoan (a class of delicately branched sea-life organisms). First of all, the form of Iris Van Herpens sensory sea collection all seem to involved twisted vortex layers, the color scheme that she has chosen to use is colorful and meshwork like, influenced by sea like structures, the main overall shape used within the collection is like a creation of metaphorical maze of sensory waves, these create the vibrant coral textures that expand and contract around the models body. Within this collection specifically iris uses a range of textures including “wobbly” curves which altogether create an elegant vivid memorable piece. Secondly the form of sensory seas is important as it is deceptively simple but there is still no laziness in terms of color, for example as this collection continues the tone becomes darker and more menacing.
S E N S O R Y
The clothes are blanched to bone-white like they have never seen the sun, or bloom with deep alarming reds and blacks which conveys the sense of startled sea creatures. The content of this collection in particularly is important as I think it mirrors “alexander McQueen Plato’s analysis” and believe it has mainly been based upon great influence from this collection beforehand, and I think Iris collection has been based upon direct observation from this catwalk itself. “sensory seas” was first displayed in her spring summer 2020 haute couture collection which consists 21 silhouettes which demonstrate portraits of liquid labyrinths. The importance of this collection is how Iris Van Herpen has drawn inspiration from the sensory process that occurs between the intricate composition of the human body and mirrored this with the fibrous marine ecology of the oceans, leading from direct observations she managed to create something that no one yet understood. The process of sensory seas first began with documenting revolutionary findings of central nervous systems in microscopic details and turning these findings into anatomical drawings. Over the microscope these merged science and art together combining the sea-life organisms, where Iris used translucent layers to create these deep-sea aquarelles. Within the collection we can see soft shades of greens, blues and gentle lilacs which “spill” onto the floor into an elegant train of pigments, these colors chosen to use by iris juxtapose with the warming reds of coral reefs
The mood set within this collection is that its trying to tell you something, its trying to show empowerment and personally the mood set for me within the entire collection is importance as each piece and design
S E A S
looks “noisy” like it has a purpose and a statement to make. For Iris the mood that she is trying to convey is empowerment and how her work is deeply rooted to her beliefs which leaves the viewers of this collection have a wide scope of imagination which is perpetual. This collection shows how Iris Van Herpen creates curiosity for her viewers and this collection represents vivid inspiration by pushing the boundaries between science art and fashion, personally I think that sensory seas is an expression of emotions and feeling based strongly upon Iris’s beliefs. Finally the context of the sensory sea collection was created to undercover something that no one had yet understood, the sensory seas collection was made for Paris couture week to allow its viewers to understand some of the greatest scientific illustrations as a visual aspect, the evidence that suggests this is Iris Van Herpens collaboration with the Spanish neuroanatomist “Ramon y cajal” whom explained and showed the sensory process
between the human body and intricate composition , where she could then demonstrate this within her work.
H u s s e i n C h a l a y a n " c o ff e e t a b l e dress"
2000
FASH ION WEEK
Ready to wear collection
First of all Hussein’s collection “fall 2000 ready to wear” which sealed his reputation, was inspired by refugees forced to leave there homes and carry their personal possessions, being used to investigate the concept of displacement. The collection longevity results from its balance of audacity, design, performance which has portrayed into a meaningful story telling piece. This collection in particular relates on a personal level to Hussein Chalayan as is was initially inspired by the war in Bosnia and people being displaced from there homes , which reminded him of the experience he had in his home country of Cyprus, he connected to the idea of universal upheaval and having to leave your home at the
timesomebody of the war. to else, then I won’t do it” that something, I have done is similar style. I really care about that. If I think important to have a sense of my own repertoire and add new things. It is shame. I swim within my own references are from and I think it is a me”. I can see where all their from everywhere and say, “this is of designers collage different ideas “It is important to have identity. A lot
C
“It is important to have identity. A lot of designers collage different ideas from everywhere and say, “this is me”. I can see where all their references are from and I think it is a shame. I swim within my own repertoire and add new things. It is important to have a sense of my own style. I really care about that. If I think that something, I have done is similar to somebody else, then I won’t do it”
H
First of all, the form of the 2000 collection was deceptively simple which as the collection continues became more and more intricate, the collection began with simple, meticulously cut dresses against stark white backdrops. All of the work displayed is all very subtle, but all have very strong evident shapes, each element creating an optic effect with depth, being inspired my architecture these pieces create a serialist and illuminous effect of volume. In particular I will look at Hussein’s “coffee table dress” within this collection as it mostly relates to the theme of architecture “"I am an idealist, which can be tiring."
The content of this piece in particular has a sense of importance as it is now widely respected for his innovative approach and considered one of the greatest moments in 90s fashion. Within the collection there are many hidden aspects which amazed the audience , form first glance its just an ordinary show, but as it continues it leads more from 2d shapes to 3d garments leading from something out of the ordinary to something special. The whole collection is drawn to the sensational finale of the coffee table which was in fact an extraordinary sculptural a line wooden skirt, this was invented upon importance and technical brilliance to prove to the audience certain message. The process of the coffee table dress was quite technical, for example the dress forms a well-defined hourglass shape which incorporate principles of corsetry into the design, the dress itself crafted from a combination of fiberglass and resin which create the solid structure which simultaneously masks the masks the human body proportions whist still being a piece of architecture. This then leads to the mood being set, for example as a viewer of the collection itself the atmosphere conveys is the idea of urban camouflage through clothing, by looking at the collection it looks to be calm but when you later learn about the expression and the reasoning behind the collection it becomes “noisy� as I think it is trying to portray an important message.
Personally this work of Hussein’s in particular affects me as I think its showing a certain confidence, and demonstrates the thought process behind the collection , the bronze tones set within the “coffee table dress” sets the elegant touch of the entire collection and makes the mood set at a certain calmness. However as the garment itself is trying to demonstrate a clear message of refugees and destruction it has purposely been made a main aspect of the collection and creates a sense of heartache for the victim, which I believe makes the audience see this violation and exposure of the people involved have occurred. Finally, the context was made for Hussein’s London fashion week of February 2000. Within the world of fashion there is nothing of a likeness and this work of Hussein differentiates him from any other fashion designer, pulling off maneuvers seeming fearless is something we don’t usually see within the industry which makes the work have even more brilliance. Throughout other and previous collections, I can’t see any similarities between his work to any other fashion designers or with the same innovation ideas or have the strong mindset to portray something so personal through a fashion collection “I think the experience of feeling isolated, of not fitting in, creates the urge to explore.”.
COLL ABO RA TE
USSEIN CHALAYAN & IRIS VAN HERPEN
Furthermore, in relation to the work of Iris Van Herpen and Hussein Chalayan I see certain similarities for example they way both of there work is deeply related to nature and both of the outcomes are both structured upon influence. For example, both of the designers challenge the standard controversial approach that we see “ordinary” designers do, by both creating something with a purpose and both being captivated by architecture and influenced by structure. There are also differences between the designers for one Hussein’s designs are more minimal to the eye whereas Iris’s involve more detail and look like there is a lot of detail involved. Hussein’s work relates to personal experience and involves telling a story where as Iriss work is based upon finding beauty within the unknown , I feel as if both of the designers have a point to prove and try to get there audience to see the importance of the ideas behind there work.
Iris
differentiates herself by pushing boundaries and experimenting with unexplored methods such as the 3D printing, I also believe that I see similarities between Hussein’s work as well by using a range of new methods which have also been unseen within the fashion industry for example Hussein’s innovative idea to use furniture into creating a dress.
Both the work of Hussein and iris differs within mainly the form of both of there collections, for example Hussein’s work comes across to have a more subtle elegant touch all referring back to similar shapes, whereas Iriss work is more vivid and bold using a range of different textures, I feel like both of these differences both still link to a similarity to between the designers are both of them are capable of displaying their work in very different ways but still being able to portray a strong message. Personally, I think both of the designer’s content share similar views but still manage to contrast different opinions through their work. Finally, to draw a conclusion to my essay I believe that Hussein combined personal aspects from his life and things he was inspired by into creating his garment using this as an expression of his own emotion as a strength. I personally think his collections show empowerment and a great understanding of the aspects of life which surround him, which created an attitude which had been untouched within the fashion industry, Hussein is a designer that I take great influence upon for his innovation used throughout his collection and his passion into creating something ordinary into something unseen. The same can also be said about Iris by being able to create a beauty within the unknown, I am greatly influenced by her passion into creating intricacy between her collections and turning the ordinary every day into something unique, her forward thinking has lead to my desire of being captivated by the simple things we ender on a day to day basis such as architecture itself and creating something with a maximal through process. Both designers have left a mark of territory on the fashion industry and will both always be known to think outside the box.