Who was Thomas Wardle? Thomas Wardle (1831-1909) was moulded by the silk industry and in turn went on to shape it. Born in Macclesfield, a town noted for its silks, and with a renowned textile dyer as a father, silk absorbed him throughout his long life. Wardle devoted much of his life to the silk industry, although not to the exclusion of everything else. He took on its considerable challenges, overcame many problems and earned a reputation as an expert in a number of specialised areas. He had fellowships of the Chemical Society, Royal Geological Society and Statistical Society, and inter alia was an active member of the Art Workers Guild, Arts and Crafts Exhibition Society and Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings; throughout he remained a free spirit who spoke independently.
Wardle’s whole approach to life demonstrated extraordinary energy, vision, creativity, and enthusiasm, but his enthusiasms were tempered with prudence and the hard reality of evidencebased decision making. There is no sense of his being driven by the pursuit of power or money, more that he had problems to solve. The impetus for his major interests was the improvement of life for the individuals involved.
As a citizen of the
Empire he shared his expertise, mindful of the moral and political importance of ensuring that people had the means to provide for their basic
Mr. Colvin the Resident, General Raja Sir Singh and Thomas Wardle (L-R), from T. Wardle, Kashmir, Its New Silk Industry, 1904, Plate 6 p.56
needs using what lay before them.
Colour played a defining role in both his private and commercial life; in silks, research into the science and aesthetics of colour, church windows he commissioned, art he collected and landscapes he walked over. His expertise as a dye chemist was developed to the highest standards and deployed in numerous ways, resulting in technological breakthroughs, innovation and enterprise.
Although firmly rooted in his place and time Wardle was insatiably curious about other cultures and eras. He saw clear links between museums and the textile industries, as he understood the creative interface between historical ornament and the generation of new designs for the present. His company (Thomas Wardle & Co) produced textiles based on historical examples as well as by leading contemporary designers. He knew what it was like to design as well as to dye and print, and perhaps it was this that led him towards artists, such as William Morris, whose work was distinctive and they to him (Thomas Wardle and William Morris and Designers working for Wardle & Co.). Wardle also donated fine textiles to leading
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museums, including the Whitworth Institute, where he had connections, creating opportunities for artisans to see the best at first hand.
Wardle accepted the Chair of the Silk Association in 1887, knowing it would be hard work and a long-term commitment, as the industry was in crisis, but this doubtless offered him an intellectual challenge. He proved perfect for the post; European travel had opened his mind to Continental models of training and manufacture; in turn he earned deep respect from European silk manufacturers who became friends. He put energy into a focused programme of interaction between those in the silk industry and influential people in other spheres. Direct action included mounting exhibitions in prestigious venues, and involving royalty and other prominent contacts to promote British silk to British consumers.
Wardle was in great demand as a speaker to leading institutions and he pulled no punches. He spoke regularly at colleges and was influential through his role as an examiner. His bracing talks, many of which were published, were dense with facts and addressed with urgency to trainee artisans and industrialists. He understood the huge challenges they faced from international competitors but did not simply expose problems; instead he offered evidence-based solutions.
Wardle believed in empowering people with knowledge, as so much success was down to human agency. He endlessly promoted the value of good design education to the British silk industry, transforming sometimes deadening restrictions into creative challenges. He quoted poetry to artisans and talked of beauty to manufacturers, citing John Ruskin and William Morris, who provided his commercial moral compass. It was a brave and novel thing for an industrialist to do - but he did it to provide a sense of purpose for the tasks ahead. This approach worked on two levels; he hoped to save the silk industry by cultivating shared ideals and to infuse individuals with the joy of making beautiful things well. India intrigued and delighted Thomas Wardle, and his work there was a triumph (Tussur
Silk
and
Leek
Embroidery
Society). The collection of Indian silks he formed for the 1886 Colonial and India Exhibition in London reflected all silk types then in production in India, a remarkable model of cooperation, admiration and Mrs. Colvin and Thomas Wardle at the Residency, Jammu, returned from an Elephant Ride to the Fort. From T. Wardle, Kashmir, Its New Silk Industry, 1904, Plate 7 p.57
mutual benefit. At the age of 72, when he could have easily considered retirement, he travelled to Kashmir, then in famine, to
revive its moribund silk industry. His analyses were accepted and advice followed, which led
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to employment for many thousands of people and lifted families out of poverty for decades to follow.
Wardle’s activities extended far beyond his involvement in the international silk industry and its demands. He was passionate about music, geology, palaeontology, architecture, fine art, field sports, trains and drains. Photographs of him show a handsome man with a benign expression, which is borne out by numerous accolades paid to his hospitality, and the many friends he made throughout the world. With his wife Elizabeth (Leek Embroidery Society), also creative and enterprising, he shared many interests and enjoyed a mutually supportive partnership.
Wardle’s remarkable achievements were recognised by the conferment of numerous honours, including a knighthood for his work with India’s silks, the Légion d’ Honneur de France, many awards for his textile products, and unstinting praise from India for his vital work there.
by Dr Brenda King
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