New Zealand’s magazine of the outdoors since 1991
AUGUST 2015
know more, do more, live more WIN! A $100 MEMORY-MAP DIGITAL MAPPING PACKAGE 30 TO BE WON!
THE WORLD’S BEST COMMUTE
Walking the Routeburn for a living!
LYDIA BRADEY At the centre of a great climbing controversy
DESIGN NZ’S
BACKCOUNTRY FLAG We’ll fly it from the top of Mt Cook
CYCLE TOURING CENTRAL OTAGO Three back-to-back trails, one epic ride
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Your tramping trip essentials checklist Father’s Day gift guide Buy the right boots to avoid blisters Jumping off cliffs at Mt Aspiring Child carriers reviewed
YOUR TRIPS, YOUR PIX
What did you get up to last weekend?
Pip Craigie braved the snow at Greenstone Hut, Otago
Janet Wilson, Mike and Craig Allerby, Warren Wheeler and Grant Christian climbed Mt Holdsworth under a full moon
Tristan Schilder wore his balaclava on the summit of Mt Balaclava, Crimea Range
Mt Albert Grammar School’s outdoor ed class tramped the Lake Waikaremoana Great Walk
Luke Carter (aged 7) climbed Wellington’s Mt Kaukau
Lucy, Gavin and Caitlyn Murphy tramped and fished the Koranga River, Waioeka Conservation Area
Jemma MacIntosh and Florine Lescalier climbed to Waimakariri Col, Arthur's Pass NP
Dolly completed the Ohakune Old Coach Road cycle trail
Theo and Ella Harneiss ate snowberries on the way to Crow Hut, Arthurs Pass NP
Nathan. Vincent, Zane and Maia Hodge woke to snow at Nina Hut
SEND YOUR PIX Get your photo published here to receive the Light My Fire ‘Pack-up-Cup’. This compressible 260ml cup keeps drinks warm and protected from dirt and bugs with its tight and secure lid. Just fold it out and fill it up. More details at ampro.co.nz. Last Weekend submission criteria at wildernessmag.co.nz
8 AUGUST 2015
WAYPOINTS
SHAUN BARNETT/BLACK ROBIN PHOTOGRAPHY
See More... BACKCOUNTRY ARCH BRIDGES
The arch bridge on the Rangiwahia Track, Ruahine Forest Park
Arch bridges have found their way from ancient Greece to backcountry New Zealand
I
t’s not often anyone describes a backcountry bridge as elegant, but a few do meet this criteria – notably these three backcountry arch bridges. The arch is a beautiful, classical shape for a bridge, and humans have been building arch bridges for millennia. Before people had materials for more sophisticated bridges, they could use the arch construction, as it suited readily available materials like stone or brick. Arch bridges work because they transfer much of the weight of the materials to the horizontal, not vertical, plane; meaning the abutments on either bank support most of the weight. Simple, but ingenious. One stone arch bridge dating from 1300 BC exists in Greece, and locals still use it. The Romans were pretty good at building them too, and mastered construction of multiple arch bridges across larger spans. A stunning one, built at Alcántara between 104 and 106 AD, still exists in Spain. While obviously more modest in scale, these three bridges use the same basic arch principle. While the tracks that cross them lead further into the backcountry, these bridges make worthy destinations in their own right. All three lie no more than two hours from the nearest road-end. - Shaun Barnett
24 AUGUST 2015
1 - RANGIWAHIA TRACK, RUAHINE FOREST PARK
Nash Memorial Heritage Lodge and Iron Gates Hut.
2 - OROUA VALLEY TRACK,
The Orongorongo Track is one of the most popular in the country, leading, as it does, into a valley full of huts. Beginning from the Catchpool parking area, the track takes about two hours to end where the Turere Stream merges into the Orongorongo River. Here, an arch bridge spans the Turere, ensuring access to huts up-valley on the Big Bend Track. The bridge offers good views of the valley, especially the northern rata that tower over the canopy. Nearby is a camping area and toilets.
Located on the track to Rangiwahia Hut, this is the most spectacularly sited of the three bridges mentioned here. DOC has completed some fabulous work on the track in recent years, re-routing it around a problematic slip that had destroyed a large section of the original benched trail. One of the advantages of this re-routed track is a magnificent viewpoint of the arch bridge, which spans a narrow gorge in a tributary of the Mangawharariki Stream. Helen Clark opened it in the 1980s, when she was Minister of Conservation.
RUAHINE FOREST PARK
A sister to the Rangiwahia arch bridge is one spanning the Umutoi Creek, a tributary of the Oroua River. Logging occurred in the valley during the mid-20th century, and a bridge suitable for trucks used to span the Umutoi Stream. By the 1960s, however, logging had ceased and the bridge was – in good Kiwi fashion – blown up. As the area was attracting trampers and hunters, a footbridge was needed, so Territorial Army soldiers built a new arch bridge. Opened in December 1961, the bridge has been serving well since then. Beyond the bridge, the track leads to the Oroua Valley, Alice
3 - TURERE STREAM, RIMUTAKA FOREST PARK
Oroua Valley Track and Rangiwahia Track, Ruahine Forest Park
Turere Stream, Rimutaka Forest Park
FATHER’S DAY GIFT
G uide
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for OUTDOOR DADS
Perfect gift ideas for all budgets
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2B Insect Repellent $22.50
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Shot-sized sachets of lightly salted smooth peanut butter, designed to be eaten straight out of the pack. Portable and full of protein, they’re the perfect six-pack to share with your dad. 180g. www.reallygood.co.nz
Merrell Gatlin Sock $40
This rugged hiking sock delivers impact-buffering cushioning and no-friction, breathable performance to prevent hot spots and keep your feet happy on the trail. www.letsgetoutside.co.nz
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CamelBak chute 1.0
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AIDE Comp SC First Aid Kit $49.95
The perfect first aid kit for dad’s adventures. This water-resistant pouch includes a handy guidebook, with the components sealed and vacuum-packed to ensure minimal storage space is needed. A mustpack to ensure you’re never caught out if there’s a medical emergency. www.outdoorestore.co.nz
Stanley Classic Stainless Steel Vacuum Flask from $59.99
Get dad something to pass on to you in years to come. The Stanley Classic has double-wall stainless steel construction so tough it has survived a 1200m drop from an airplane, being run over by a tractor and has even stopped a bullet. It also keeps drinks hot or cold for up to 24hr. Sizes from 470-1900ml. www.ampro.co.nz
16 AUGUST 2015
Victorinox Huntsman $64.99
The classic Victorinox knife with 15 essential functions. Includes scissors, blades, woodsaw, corkscrew, screwdrivers, wire stripper, toothpick, tweezers, parcel hook and bottle/can openers. 97g. www.ampro.co.nz
Gerber Suspension $69.99
Inspired by the bridges of Gerber’s hometown in Portland, the Suspension is an open frame multitool with spring-loaded pliers, Saf.T.Plus locking system, a fine-edge knife, serrated knife, rough cut saw and more. Housed in a ballistic nylon sheath, it’s a lightweight down-and-dirty workhorse. www.gerbergear.com
Black Diamond Ember Powerlight $79.90
Hand-held lighting meets portable power: The Ember Power Light illuminates the trail ahead and charges your hand-held electronics when you get to camp. www.southernapproach.co.nz
Petzl Tikka+ $89.95
The Tikka+ offers 160 lumen brightness in boost mode and is ideal for outdoor activities that require rapid movement. Featuring Constant Lighting technology to ensure constant brightness over time, and a mixed beam (wide, focused or red for discretion). IPX4, up to 400hr battery life (60min in boost mode). www.spelean.co.nz
Macpac Duffel 80 $99.99
Gerber Gator $99.99 oplastics ploys advanced therm
These duffel bags come in 50, 80 and 120 litre sizes, so whether you’re travelling long-haul or throwing together your post-hike gear, there’s one to suit your needs. Built to last with 1000D nylon and a thick PU coating. www.macpac.co.nz
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Astina Divers Watch $159
An attractive and affordable diver’s watch, the Astina represents style, performance and value. Built with the demands of diving and watersports in mind and features a stainless-steel case, unidirectional bezel, luminous hands and markers, mineral crystal face and 200m water resistance with a sturdy extralong rubber strap to fit over a wetsuit. www.gmbwatches.co.nz
Slackline Industries BaseLine $119.95 Fun for dad and all the family! The SI Baseline 15m slackline includes static-style webbing ideal for learning, TreeWear straps and an instructional DVD. The BASE LINE is perfect for getting started and progressing to basic tricks. www.outdoorestore.co.nz
Macpac Kauri Merino Top $179.99
A classic merino top for all occasions; from adventuring in the wild to drinking coffee in the not so wild. The mercerised superfine Merino provides extremely soft and 100% itch free comfort. www.macpac.co.nz
MapToaster Topo/ NZ topo from $179
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www.wildernessmag.co.nz
17
WAYPOINTS
ROADMAN’S SHELTER Historic Jacks Hut, Arthur’s Pass National Park / EASY
T
ROB BROWN
here can be few huts easier to tick off than Jacks Hut on SH73. It’s the last surviving roadman’s hut from a time when it wasn’t machinery that kept the pass open but hard toil from men with shovels and picks. The hut was built in 1879 at Rough Creek, near present day Arthur’s Pass village, and shifted to its current site in 1909. By 1923, the opening of the rail tunnel and improvements to the road had made the job of the roadman obsolete and the hut was sold to the Butler family who used it as a holiday crib for nearly 70 years. But by the early 1990s it had fallen into disrepair and had become a target for vandals. Recognising the historic nature of the hut, the Butlers gifted it to the Department of Conservation in 2003 and it was restored to its original condition in 2004. It now sits on the Arthur’s Pass Walking Track, which is used by around 30,000 people a year. To really appreciate how tough life was for both the road worker and the family that lived there, it’s best to visit the hut in the depth of winter when this part of the Alps feels the sun for just a few hours a day. These days the road still gets closed after heavy snowfall with the landscape transformed after a fluffy duvet of snow, as it was on this occasion I visited. - Rob Brown
WILD FILE Access The hut can be accessed from the roadside or by taking the Arthur’s Pass Walking Track from Arthur’s Pass village Grade Easy Time 1.5hr return walk from Arthur’s Pass village Map BV20
HERE
&
flag ONCE YOU’VE DRAWN YOUR DESIGN, CUT IT OUT AND POST TO US (SEE OPPOSITE) OR SCAN AND EMAIL IT TO FLYMYFLAG@LIFESTYLEPUBLISHING.CO.NZ
THE JUDGES
Alistair Hall This August issue marks Alistair’s 100th as editor of Wilderness. While he’s flown the flag for the magazine on tramping trips all over the country, he’s keen as mustard to fly your backcountry flag.
Lani Evans Lani was among the first all-female team to traverse the length of the Southern Alps. Their 1600km trip took 84 days and included a naked crossing of David Saddle. She’s now CEO of Dunedin-based Thankyou Payroll and is an advocate for generosity, philanthropy and good climate change policy.
Graeme Dingle As a mountaineer and adventurer Graeme has completed a hatful of daring firsts and documented his love for the outdoors in essays, books and documentary films. His name is also synonymous with his work in outdoor pursuits, such as the establishment of the Sir Edmund Hillary Outdoor Pursuits Centre (now called Hillary Outdoors) and the Project K Trust (now called the Foundation for Youth Development). Jamie Fitzgerald You may know Jamie as copresenter (with Kevin Biggar) for TVNZ’s First Crossings and Intrepid NZ. The two have walked to the South Pole unaided and hold the world record for rowing 5000km across the Atlantic. Jamie’s also walked the Te Araroa Trail and is a motivational speaker and leadership development consultant with Inspiring Performance.
HOW TO ENTER Either:
1. Hand draw your design on the page opposite, cut it out or scan it. 2. Alternatively, download the page from wildernessmag.co.nz (If you choose to make your own canvas, use a ratio of 2:1) 3. Digitally create your design on a canvas 1800mm by 900mm and email it to us as a hi-res ‘.jpg’ file.
All entries must:
• Include your name, address, email and phone number • Include a brief description (no more than 100 words) about the theme of the flag and why you chose that design • Be either emailed to flymyflag@lifestylepublishing.co.nz or posted to Fly My Flag, PO Box 251566, Pakuranga, Auckland 2140 (use our FREEpost number 1562).
The closing date for entries is 6pm, Monday, August 31.
6 TOP TIPS
FOR GOOD FLAG DESIGN
1. Keep the design simple, bold and bright, says Flagmakers’ Kate Ryan: “Think of people quickly passing by your flag – you need to make the message you’re trying to send across instantly recognisable.” 2. Contrast is important – use light colours on dark, and vice-versa. “Light green and a darker blue work well together, as does yellow and cyan blue. Some colours such as red and green don’t contrast well and two bright colours together are hard on the eyes,” says Ryan. 3. Any animals or birds would traditionally face the flagpole 4. The top left hand corner of the flag is typically the place of honour in a flag
WIN
A FULL-SIZED VERSION OF YOUR FLAG AND GET IT FLOWN FROM THE SUMMIT OF AORAKI/MT COOK!
5. Avoid using a white background. This isn’t for design purposes, says Ryan, but for the longevity of the flag: “When you print a dye on a fabric it makes it stronger – very important if it’s going to be flown outside. White can also look dirty and grey after a while. 6. It should be designed to be flown and viewed from both sides – so you should avoid using letters and numerals.
T&Cs: View the full terms and conditions on the Fly my Flag page of our website: www.wildernessmag.co.nz
GEOFF SPEARPOINT
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
32 AUGUST 2015
THE
LANDSBOROUGH
SOLUTION Geoff Spearpoint wades the Landsborough River and climbs the Solution Range on a visit to Marks Flat on the West Coast
A
Catching some sun on the Solution Range before descending to a frigid Marks Flat
t the heart of the Hooker Landsborough Wilderness Area in South Westland, Marks Flat is an enchanting place. Situated in the head of the Clarke River, it’s hemmed up against Kea Cliffs on one side and tucked under Mt Hooker on the other. To reach it we went up the Landsborough and crossed the Solution Range, then came out down the Clarke. It isn’t a difficult trip as far as off-track trips go, apart from two crossings of the Landsborough River, seldom an easy proposition, and a couple of the Clarke River, which isn’t so bad. The Landsborough is often uncrossable on foot in summer. We chose autumn when there’s less snow melt to increase our chances. Sod’s law kicked in and there was a big flood in the week leading up to the trip. However, the rain stopped and rivers were receding when Gary Nixon, Robin McNeill and I splashed off the Haast Highway at the Pleasant Flat bridge and headed up the Landsborough Valley on the 4WD track in my 2WD car. Unlike my approach when I was younger, I didn’t rip the muffler off, bury the car in a deep muddy rut, or drown it in a side creek. Leaving the car at Surly Creek, a couple of kilometres from the highway, we headed to the old open Landsborough Homestead between Cringe and Clapcott Creeks, which is midway between SH6 and Strutt Bluff. This was the base from which the lower Landsborough was farmed. DOC now manages this land, so there are no access
issues. The bad news is the convenient shelter the homestead offers is not being maintained, and may be removed. A few hundred metres past Parasite Creek we dropped our packs and detoured to the old ranger’s hut, used in the 1940s by government deer cullers. It’s a bit of a wreck, but parts of it would still keep you dry in a storm. We carried on, getting to Strutt Bluff by mid-afternoon. The bluff was named after a deer stalking colonel who had a bit of a misadventure here in the 1920s. Strutt, his wife ‘Rabbit’ and their guide and head man George Humphries were descending the valley after their Easter ‘roar’ hunting trip. They had already endured two major floods, and, on top of that, Rabbit had lost her wedding ring. While trying to negotiate the bluff they all slipped off steep greasy rock into the river. Humphries managed to clamber out and, with the aid of a branch, fished the others out of a backwater. Strutt lost his pack in the accident, and it was found six months later on a West Coast beach. A lightly marked route climbs 100m uphill before leading through the bluffs and down ferny banks back to the river edge. Up valley we found a campsite in grassy alcoves amongst regenerating silver beech. It was only 5pm but already the light was fading. We stoked up a fire as kaka called from distant trees. Nearby, there were stoat trap lines. DOC has a significant trapping scheme running in the valley, with a trap line most of the way up the true left to Kea Flat, and in places a double line. On the true right, they run from Creswicke Flat to Kea. www.wildernessmag.co.nz
33
WILD CLIMBING
Jumping a crevasse on the Bonar Glacier
WINGING IT AT
ASPIRING
GRANT MASLOWKSKI
What goes up must come down, and in Mt Aspiring National Park descents don't get more fun than leaping off a cliff edge strapped to a paraglider, writes Jose Martinez
WILD CYCLING
C YC L E T O U R I N G
CENTRAL
Dan Slater discovers how three trails almost backto-back create one epic cycle trail in rural Otago
“HOLD ONTO YOUR HATS!”
OTAG O Switchbacks-a-plenty on the trail through Roxburgh Gorge
warned Dave Crawford as he flung the wheel of his jet boat hard left and threw us into a white-knuckle 360-degree spin. We whirled around so fast I swear I caught sight of my bike directly behind me, although this was impossible, and caught our breath just in time to burst out laughing as we bobbed to a standstill. I never thought I’d have to contend with such G-forces while cycle touring in Otago. People come from all over the world to cycle New Zealand’s world class trails, and no wonder: Nga Haerenga – ‘The Journeys’ – is the country’s nationwide network of cycleways, comprising 23 off-road routes known as Great Rides that are connected by on-road touring routes. Paul and I had been eagerly anticipating the purpose-built bike trails of Central Otago. Three trails now run end-to-end to create, at 257km, the third-longest off-road ride in the country: the Clutha Gold Trail (CGT), the Roxburgh Gorge Trail (RGT) and the Otago Central Rail Trail (OCRT). We joined the CGT at Millers Flat, 45km from its origin at Lawrence, delighted to be leaving the tarmac for a while. The gravel crunched under our wheels like perfectlygraded gold nuggets as we rode alongside the impossible turquoise water of the Clutha Mata-Au, the South Island’s longest river. After nearly 1500km of asphalt, I’d forgotten how much fun off-road riding could be, and it was easy to ignore my fully-loaded panniers as the kilometre markings flew by. Fortunately, the hills we encountered were gentle; this section of the CGT varies less than 50m in elevation. The trail is the culmination of eight years’ work by the Tuapeka and Teviot communities, who have spent thousands of volunteer hours developing both the CGT and RGT. Officially designated as both walking and cycling trails, they opened simultaneously in October 2013 and are already popular. According to Rod Pierce, chairman of the Clutha Gold Trail, each trail saw around 10,000 riders last summer. As the dust of the trail began to play havoc with my chain, rendering it squeakier than a set of ninja-proof floorboards, we passed the sad remains of an old gold dredge. The Kohinoor, her planking jutting from the centre of the river, sank in 1912. She was just one of many dredges working the river in the early 20th century and harvested almost 100kg of gold from the river bed in only four years. Although much less prevalent, dredges still work the river profitably today. It didn’t take long to ride the 30km to www.wildernessmag.co.nz
49
ALPINE START We began our climb of the south足 east ridge of Boanerges, 2254m, in Ruataniwha Conservation Park, in the early hours. We broke through the low cloud, and the rocky ridge gave way to snow just as the sun began to rise. - Mark Chambers Camera settings: Olympus OMD E足M1, ISO 400, f8, 1/100. Submit your hotshots to
hotshot@lifestylepublishing.co.nz