10 -PAGE TRAIL RUNNING SUPPLEMENT INSIDE New Zealand’s magazine of the outdoors since 1991
NOVEMBER 2015
see more, do more, live more
WIN!
$249 DIGITAL MAPPING BUNDLES!
10
12 UP FOR GRABS
PERFECT CIRCLES
INSIDE:
New Zealand’s new backcountry flag
NZ’S BEST LOOP WALKS THE KEPLER, AROUND RUAPEHU, KAHURANGI’S FABLED TABLELANDS & MORE
GREAT WALK CAMPSITES
Rangers pitch their favourites
MAP! NELSON LAKES
NATIONAL PARK Plan
pass-hopping trips in the Sabine Valley and to the world’s clearest lake
www.wildernessmag.co.nz
NZ $9.95 Aust $9.95 INCL GST
R.I.P CASEY HUT » DOES THE MSC HAVE A FUTURE? » BUYER’S GUIDE TO TENTS » LOSING A LEG ‘ENRICHED MY LIFE’ » REVIEWED: 3 - 4 SEASON BOOTS » TRIPS TO BEN LOMOND, WELCOME FLAT, HANMER, KAIMAIS, TARARUAS AND CENTRAL OTAGO
22
contents NOVEMBER 2015 FEATURES 10 Backcountry flag – the result
Which design won New Zealand’s backcountry flag competition?
32 Last week was better
How appalling conditions can lead to life or death decisions
38 Does the MSC have a future?
Where does its dramatic change of direction leave it sitting in the outdoor community?
44 Perfect circles
Ever-changing views on New Zealand’s best loop tracks
44
WAYPOINTS 18 Polar experience
Summit Plateau, Tongariro National Park
20 Views a Plenty
Ben Lomond Scenic Reserve, Otago
22 Great camps
DOC rangers recommend the best campsites on each of the Great Walks
40
24 See more
Ignimbrite gorges
38
Subscribe for your chance to win one of 12 MapToaster digital mapping bundles for PC and GPS worth $249!
52 www.wildernessmag.co.nz
1
YOUR TRIPS, YOUR PIX
What did you get up to last weekend?
Harald and Hendrikje Buss climbed Canterbury’s Mt Lyndon
Deb Hughes stopped for lunch on the way to the Annette Plateau, Aoraki/Mt Cook NP
Carolyn Vasta cycled the St James Walkway in Canterbury
Karen Banks climbed to the snowline near Cascade Saddle, Mt Aspiring NP
Jeana Packer celebrated climbing Mt Patriarch, Kahurangi NP
Jeremy Grooby climbed Mt Potts in Hakatere Conservation Area
Nikki Williams and Peter Hicks made snow friends on top of Ben Lomond, Queenstown
Karen and Maria Wallace walked the Mt Ida Water Race in Otago
Adele Bissell shared Wilderness magazine with her guide on Australia’s Larapinta Trail
Gennah Clarke hiked to Taranaki Falls, Tongariro NP
SEND YOUR PIX Get your photo published here to receive the Light My Fire ‘Pack-up-Cup’. This compressible 260ml cup keeps drinks warm and protected from dirt and bugs with its tight and secure lid. Just fold it out and fill it up. More details at ampro.co.nz. Last Weekend submission criteria at wildernessmag.co.nz
6
NOVEMBER 2015
WAYPOINTS
VIEWS A PLENTY Ben Lomond Scenic Reserve, Queenstown
S
ituated in the heart of Queenstown, Ben Lomond Scenic Reserve offers a vast array of walks and views to tantalise any hiker’s appetite. The pinnacle of the reserve is walking to the peak of Ben Lomond, 1748m, which offers 360-degree views over the surrounding mountains. However, en-route there are a number of stunning views that provide a feeling of isolation and requiring only half the time and effort. A few minutes’ walk from downtown Queenstown, the Tiki Trail climbs towards the Skyline Gondola through wilding pine and beech forest. Past the gondola, luge and paragliding take-off, a 4WD track leads through more wilding pines, eventually giving way to scrubby alpine tops. Here the trail becomes less distinct. A bit of scrambling and careful route finding is required until rocky schist outcrops become visible. It is here that you should stop, turn around and admire the views – like the person in this photograph. Continue upwards to reach the summit of Ben Lomond, or, if you are content with the views at this point, descend the route you walked up. Either way, you will have earned some of the best views that Lake Wakatipu has to offer. - Sarah Smith
WILD FILE Access Via the Tiki Trail at the bottom of the Skyline Gondola Grade Moderate Time Ben Lomond peak 6-8 hours return, view point en-route to Ben Lomond peak 3-4 hours return. Map CC11
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
The loose, steep descent to Johnstons Creek
INTO THE
GREAT
WIDE
OPEN
The immense Oteake Conservation Park provides tops tramping unlike anything you’ve experienced before, writes Pat Barrett
WEST
COAST
RICKY FRENCH
LAST WEEK
Dark and menacing clouds, heavy with rain, gather at the head of the Arahura Valley
WAS BETTER Murphy’s Law: after the driest summer on record, Ricky French gets hit by a West Coast deluge and is forced to make a life or death decision
I
t had been the driest summer in memory on the West Coast. I was feeling fit, strong, up for a challenge. Many hours were spent researching remote huts, and even more remote mountain passes. I would target largely unknown routes that would test my navigation as well as my fortitude. I unfurled the maps (four in total!) and traced a line past Lake Kaniere to Cedar Flats, then over Mathias Pass into Canyon Creek, over into the Wilberforce River, eventually ending at Klondyke Corner near Arthur’s Pass. The line resembled woozy waves on a graph, seemed to cover an extraordinary amount of kilometres. But I was confident, I was ready. Then I saw the forecast: heavy rain. I may have been flexible with the route but I wasn’t flexible with the dates.There was no luxury of waiting for the perfect set of days.
“You should have been here last week,” said a Hokitika local as we gathered on the beach to witness the dramatic theatre of an evening bonfire. ‘Or the week before that,’ piped up another voice. ‘We’ve had nothing but sun.’ All around us thick cloud gathered, mimicking the dark tones of the beach: grey, black, the deepest bruise-coloured blue. The punch came, thunder cracked, the bruise opened up and the sky let go. Rain doused the flames and the Coasters pulled down their hoods and scuttled off home. Perhaps they should have had the bonfire last week…. I spent two days mooching round Hokitika, trying to will the forecast into a miraculous change, but it only got worse. My epic route needed revising; you’d have to be a suicidal masochist to want to spend six days bashing your way through rain and flooded rivers and over wind-swept mountain passes.
LOOP TRACKS
TRAMPER’S PARADISE
Mt Arthur and the Tablelands, Kahurangi National Park
If anywhere comes close to a tramper’s paradise, it is Kahurangi’s Tablelands. Rolling tussock tops, interspersed with patches of beech forest, give the Tablelands a fine mosaic of colours and textures, all with the backdrop of Mt Arthur and the Twins – marble mountains shaped by past glaciation. This circuit begins with a climb to Mt Arthur Hut, before traversing Gordons Pyramid to reach Salisbury Lodge and the Tablelands. The remainder of the track follows Flora Stream. If the weather permits, a side-trip up Mt Arthur is well worthwhile. ACCESS Flora car park, Graham Valley South Branch Road GRADE Easy TIME 2 days
PERFECT CIRCLES
MARK WATSON
Shaun Barnett goes in search of New Zealand’s best loop tracks where you finish exactly where you started and every view is different to the last
BUYER'S
G uide
THREE SEASON TENTS
These are the go-to tents for most backcountry adventures. As long as there’s no need to spend extended periods above the bushline, a three season tent will serve as your home from home at any time of year. By Alistair Hall ACCESS AND VESTIBULES
Tunnel tents have a single door while domes generally have two. The fly creates vestibule storage directly outside the door.
GUY POINTS
Guylines help maintain tent shape in adverse weather and, especially when camping above the snowline where an ice axe can be buried in the snow for extra security. There should be multiple guy points – one or two at each corner and on the sides.
STORAGE
Stash pockets can be found at the ends or sides. A gear locker can often be suspended from the ceiling.
Featured tent: MSR Hubba Hubba NX ($859.99). Distributed by Ampro Sales Ltd, Wellington. www.ampro.co.nz
INNER
POLES
Held together with elastic shock cord and often with ferrules, or doublebutted, at the ends for strength. Standard dome tents have a single crossover point between the poles; on more technical models there may be a third pole, creating two or more crossover points and providing extra strength against wind and snow loadings.
FLY
The fly creates an insulating air layer between it and the inner. It will be made from ripstop nylon or polyester fabric with some fly fabric weights being as light as 20D. Silicone and polyurethane (PU) coatings increase water-resistance and improve waterhead ratings.
FLOOR
Tub floors will keep water and snow out of the tent. Like the tent’s fly, floors are waterhead rated, generally between 2000mm and 10,000mm. Lighter floors are nice to carry but can allow seepage in very damp conditions. It’s best to carry a groundsheet or dedicated footprint for these models.
WATERHEAD (HYDROSTATIC PRESSURE) RATING A fabric’s waterhead rating measures its ability to resist water seepage. A column of water is stacked on a fabric with the height of the column measured at the point water begins to leak through. Tent fly fabric is usually measured between 1200mm and 4000mm. Floors are between 2000mm and 10,000mm.
PITCHING
Tents are often referred to as multi-pitch and freestanding. Freestanding means the tent supports itself once the poles are inserted (it still needs to be pegged out). Multi-pitch refers to the ways the tent can be used: with or without the fly, or fly only.
PEGS
Aluminium pegs are shaped to hold in soft soil and snow.
The airspace between the inner and fly traps condensation and helps regulate temperature. Mesh is used liberally to promote airflow and provide a bright, breezy environment. Summer-use tents can be constructed almost entirely of mesh while colder weather tents will have a combination of mesh and ripstop fabric.
VENTILATION
Mesh inners work with vents on the fly to reduce condensation build-up and regulate temperature. Fly vents should be positioned for maximum airflow without the risk of rain blowing inside. Most vestibule doors unzip from top and bottom to create airflow when needed.
www.wildernessmag.co.nz
67
qMSR Elixir 2 $649.99
pMSR Hubba NX $749.99
TWO PERSON, THREE SEASON Two large doors and vestibules, multi-pitch, footprint included, star-patterned skylight, pole geometry optimises headroom. Fly 68D, 210T ripstop polyester, 1500mm PU Inner 20D, 330T ripstop high tenacity nylon, 20D nylon micromesh Floor 70D, 190T taffeta nylon, 3000mm, Durashield PU Poles 2, 7000 series aluminium Area 2.69m²; vestibule 1.63m² Weight 2660g. www.ampro.co.nz
ONE PERSON, THREE SEASON Multi-pitch, unified hub-and-pole system, colour coded adjustable stakeout loops, full vestibule, stay-dry entrance. Optional Hubba Gear Shed doubles storage. Fly 20D, 330T ripstop nylon, 1200mm, Durashield PU Inner 20D, 330T ripstop nylon and 15D nylon micromesh Floor Ripstop nylon, 3000mm, Durashield PU Poles 1, DAC Featherlite NFL Area 1.67m²; vestibule 0.84m² Weight 1290g. www.ampro.co.nz
pThe North Face Triarch 2 $650
TWO PERSON, THREE SEASON Freestanding backpacking tent, double door and vestibules, vaulted head and footbox, vertical side walls, dry entry, multiple mesh colours provide privacy, multiple fly configurations, tabs for hanging gear and equipment, gear loft and footprint included. Fly 15D nylon ripstop, 1200mm, PU coating Inner Nylon ripstop, No-See-Um mesh Floor 75D polyester taffeta, 3000mm, PU coating Poles DAC Featherlite NSL Area 2.7m²; vestibule 1.3m² Weight 1700g. www.thenorthface.co.nz
qMacpac Bush Cocoon $499.99
ONE PERSON, THREE SEASON Hoop pole provides headroom, insect mesh screen, zip cover and rain gutter ensures waterproofness, covered vent for airflow, webbing pocket, and guyline at foot creates more internal volume. Fly eVent 3-Layer Floor 40D ripstop nylon, 10,000mm Poles DAC Featherlite NSL, 9mm Area 1.57m² Weight 970g. www.macpac.co.nz
pExped Mira I $499
ONE PERSON, THREE SEASON Freestanding, continuous pole sleeves, gear loops and pockets, internal access to gear storage under fly, flame retardant. Fly 30D ripstop polyester, PU coated, 1500mm Inner 15D No-See-Um mesh, 30D ripstop polyester Floor 70D taffeta nylon, PU coated, 5000mm Poles DAC Featherlite Area 1.54m², vesitbule 0.7m² Weight 1500g. www.bivouac.co.nz
qMarmot Tungsten 2P $499
TWO PERSON, THREE SEASON Two D-shaped doors, vertical walls create space, full coverage fly with vents, freestanding, seam taped floor, colour coded easy pitch clips, poles and fly, headlamp pocket, interior pockets. Fly 68D polyester taffeta 190T, 1800mm Inner 40D polyester No-See-Um mesh, 68D polyester taffeta Floor 68D polyester taffeta 190T, 2000mm Poles 3, DAC Area 3m²; vestibules 0.9m², 0.48m² Weight 2400g. www.marmotnz.co.nz
qTorpedo7 Mamaku 2 $399.99
TWO PERSON, THREE SEASON Double layer tent, ventilation panel, both front and rear vestibule with door, front vestibule with PE floor, two storage pockets, heat tape sealed seams, UPF50+. Fly 40D silicon, PU coated nylon Inner 63D 185T breathable polyester Floor PU 3000mm seam sealed Poles 8.5mm, T6 alloy Area 2.94m², vestibule 0.47m² Weight 2560g. www.torpedo7.co.nz
pKiwi Camping Pukeko $199.99
pKiwi Camping Weka 3 $299.99
THREE PERSON, THREE SEASON Double entrance and vestibules, tri-pegging system, roof loft door storage, fire retardant and SPF50 UV coating, three year warranty. Fly 75D, 210T double-coated polyester, 4000mm Inner 75D, 210T double-coated polyester Floor Poly-Oxford, 5000mm Poles Aluminium Area 3.8m², vestibule 1.47m² Weight 2900g. www.kiwicamping.co.nz
ONE PERSON, THREE SEASON Single entrance, tri-pegging system, dual pitch with or without inner, fire retardant and SPF50 UV coating, three year warranty. Fly 75D, 210T double-coated polyester, 4000mm Inner 75D, 210T double-coated polyester Floor PolyOxford, 5000mm Poles Aluminium Area 2.6m², vestibule 1.2m² Weight 2100g. www.kiwicamping.co.nz
www.wildernessmag.co.nz
69