FATHER’S DAY GIFT GUIDE PERFECT GIFTS FOR OUTDOOR DADS New Zealand's magazine of the outdoors since 1991
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CRAMPON REVIEW FIVE MODELS FROM BASIC TO PRO TESTED
AUGUST 2014
WIN HI-TEC TRAMPING BOOTS SEE P54
10 TONGARIRO NATIONAL PARK TRIPS
+ 3D MAP TO HELP PLAN YOUR NEXT VISIT
THEY PAY YOU FOR THIS?
TOP OUTDOOR JOBS WHERE THE AMAZING LIFESTYLE IS MATCHED BY THE INCOME
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LONELY MOUNTAINS Why fewer people are climbing New Zealand’s highest peaks and why that should concern you
» RUGGED OUTDOOR CAMERAS AND ACCESSORIES » Lochnagar – trial and tribulation in Mt Aspiring » NAVIGATE THROUGH A WHITE-OUT » Epic hot, hot chocolate » SIX WEEKEND TRAMPS TO TRY THIS WINTER
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contents AUGUST 2014
FEATURES
28 It doesn’t have to be perfect When it comes to tramping with kids it doesn’t matter if it’s rain or shine – it’s the getting out there and doing it that counts 34 Lonely mountains
Recreational alpine climbing in New Zealand is in decline, but Kiwis are still rocking the mountaineering world
39 They pay you for this?
10 outdoor jobs that offer a great lifestyle and the chance to earn a decent income
50 Father’s Day gift guide
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Outdoor gift ideas for outdoor dads
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WAYPOINTS 16 Destinations
Temple Basin Ski Field, Arthur’s Pass National Park
18 Destinations
Kea Basin, Mt Aspiring National Park
20 See more
Gorgeous backcountry gorges
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What did you get up to last weekend?
Jess Cartman hiked to Meg Hut in Otago
YOUR TRIPS, YOUR PIX
Gordon and Dean Rainham tramped the Lake Waikaremoana Great Walk
Melanie Deane took two-year-old Peter for his first tramp in Mt Thomas Forest
Ceri, Seren and Elin Blythe, along with Jesse Carr, walked the Routeburn Track
Derek Teague (left) and friends spent the night at Lake Angelus Hut, Nelson Lakes NP
Lynne and Neil Hutchison climbed Peak Hill for the 360-degree views over Lake Coleridge Brent Andrews, Ian Syme and Harley James spent an autumn day climbing Canterbury’s Castle Hill Peak
Lisa Holland and Jack O'Brien climbed Mt Egmont/Taranaki
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Carol Stewart, Mike Hutson and Mike Guthrie climbed Mt Ruapehu
Murray Gray took shelter from a storm on the Kepler Track
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WAYPOINTS
TEMPLE SUNRISE Temple Basin Ski Field, Arthur’s Pass National Park
MODERATE
The first sliver of sunrise colours Mt Rolleston, with the buildings of Temple Basin Ski Field in the foreground
T
emple Basin Ski Field is one of my favourite places in the world. I’ve had countless blissful days skiing here, with great terrain, friendly people, and no crowds. A huge part of the appeal is the breathtaking setting among the mountains of Arthur’s Pass. You needn’t even strap planks to your feet to enjoy this magical place. While skiing brings most folk here, many venture up via the handy Temple Basin Track to explore the peaks and ridges of the area by foot. Summer or winter, it’s a straightforward way to gain access to some fun objectives. If you ask me, though, winter is by far the most stunning time to be here. I especially love to be out and about
early, as the sunrise just creeps over the ridge and begins to paint the surrounding mountains. You can go for an alpine start, and make the hour-long trip up the hill to the lodge in the pre-dawn. Alternatively, you can avail yourself of the modest but comfortable accommodation that the ski field offers. A warm bunk, the option of dinner and breakfast, and great company in a friendly dorm-style mountain lodge is quite appealing. Lastly, you can stay up high, either in a tent or, if you’re feeling adventurous, a snow cave. However you decide to do it, make sure you check the sunrise time and set your alarm early. It’s tough to leave the warmth of a sleeping bag to trudge out into the cold, dark morning, but I’ve never
regretted doing so. And if you’re staying in the lodge, there’ll be a hot breakfast waiting for you when you get back. Not to mention first tracks on the hill. - Jason Blair
WILD FILE Access Temple Basin Ski Field is located just west of Arthur’s Pass village. Park in the signposted car-park on SH73 and head up the marked route to the lodge buildings Grade Moderate Time 1.5hr Map BV20
WAYPOINTS
Kea Basin, Mt Aspiring National Park
A
utumn seemed a good season to climb Mt Earnslaw/Pikirakatahi, but the reality turned out to be somewhat different. After pleasant tramping along Kea Basin Track, we reached the cozy Earnslaw Hut. But its inhabitants, a family of mice, encouraged us to contiue for 15-minutes above the bushline to one of the best rock bivvies imaginable. This overhang, fully equipped with fireplace, utensils and two separate tussock-covered ‘bedrooms’, represents a five star sleeping facility.
MODERATE
Our excitement was later interrupted when, instead of gazing at the stars, we felt snowflakes falling on our faces. In the morning, the landscape was covered with a white blanket and as we walked to Wright Col, the snow became deeper and the route more challenging. We eventually reached Esquilant Bivvy Hut (2150m) where we stayed the night, but the route to the summit of Earnslaw was too treacherous with numerous small avalanches forcing our retreat. - Jakub Cejpek
WILD FILE Access Muddy Creek car park at the end of the Rees Valley Road Grade Moderate Alpine weather, snow in winter and early spring. Time Kea Basin bivouac, 4-5hr; Bivouac to Wright Col and Esquilant Bivvy Hut, 5hr Accommodation Earnslaw Hut, 4 bunks; Rock bivouacs in Kea Basin; Esquilant Bivvy Hut, 6 bunks Map CB10, CA10
JAKUB CEJPEK
Hiking through the first snow of the season in Kea Basin. Richardson Mountains opposite
R I F
W O N S ST
DENNIS RADERMACHER / LIGHTFORGE.CO.NZ
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
Camping by Shotover Saddle offers great views to Rob Roy Glacier
TO LOCHNAGAR Rain, snow and thick scrub quickly turn a tramp in Mt Aspiring National Park from tour to trial, writes Dennis Radermacher
WILD
CLIMBING
MARK WATSON
L O N E LY
Fewer people are climbing New Zealand’s highest and most difficult peaks
MOUNTAINS Mountain climbing in New Zealand is in decline. Some blame climate change, others the perception of danger and the multitude of other activities vying for people’s time. But even though fewer Kiwis are taking up alpinism, Matthew Pike discovers there are plenty out there rocking the mountaineering world