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ARTHUR'S PASS NATIONAL PARK TRIPS New Zealand's magazine of the outdoors since 1991
SEPTEMBER 2014
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ALPINE HUTS AND THE ‘P’ WORD The sorry state of alpine huts may lead to private funding
FIRST CROSSINGS
BEHIND THE SCENES OF THE MODERN-DAY TELLING OF KIWI PIONEER STORIES
THE Perfect Reward
PITCHING TENTS BESIDE MOUNTAIN TARNS AFTER A WEST COAST SCRUB BASH
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contents SEPTEMBER 2014 FEATURES
30 Holiday in Hawkswood
A 40km walk over three backcountry sheep stations offers a new – and relaxed – way to view the Kaikoura Ranges
36 Dire state of alpine huts
The cost of maintaining alpine huts, some of which are no longer weatherproof, is leading some users to call for private funding
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42 A modern twist on daring pioneer adventures Wilderness goes behind the scenes on the filming of the popular First Crossings TV show
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WAYPOINTS DESTINATIONS
18 A winter crossing
Tongariro Alpine Crossing, Tongariro National Park
20 Alpine romance
Syme Hut, Mt Egmont National Park
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22 See more
Three-wire bridges
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2 SEPTEMBER 2014
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YOUR TRIPS, YOUR PIX
What did you get up to last weekend?
Richard Mackay climbed Mt Enys on the Craigieburn Range
Saffron, 11, and Lynley Kearney climbed Mt Arthur in Kahurangi National Park
Sharon Purcell and Peter Jacques climbed the Avalanche Peak Track
Hamish Hilson traversed from Avalanche Peak to Mt Bealey in Arthur’s Pass National Park
Gavin, Olivia and Flynn Lambert tramped to Lake Angelus, Nelson Lakes National Park
Ondrej Stavel walked the Mt Holdsworth-Jumbo Circuit
Susan Bearzot celebrated her 34th wedding anniversary by walking the Tongariro Alpine Crossing with hubby George
Catherine Watson ski toured the Kepler Track
Nina Sawicki climbed Mt Ngauruhoe
Graham Morley and Ian Thompson climbed Mt Hector in Tararua Forest Park
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10 SEPTEMBER 2014
WAYPOINTS
A WINTER CROSSING Tongariro Alpine Crossing, Tongariro National Park /
MODERATE
W
inter on the Tongariro Alpine Crossing brings a blanket of snow that conceals the brilliant colours of Emerald Lakes, but paradoxically it also reveals the best kept secret of the TAC: a true wilderness experience on what in summer is one of the busiest tracks in the country. The winter route is essentially the same as the summer crossing, but minor route modifications may be needed depending on the snow conditions. You’ll also need crampons because while snow is rarely encountered at the lower altitudes of the two road-end car parks, it lies thick on the ground above the Ketetahi Shelter and Devils Staircase. The TAC is a great track for those making their first foray into winter alpine tramping. The mountains are relatively
forgiving, the tracks well marked and the relatively low altitude allows easy route finding as well as quick retreat should the weather close in. However, this is still an alpine environment with its associated risks and it should be treated with respect. Guided groups are available and are strongly recommended to those without the necessary experience. - Zhi Yuen Yap
WILD FILE Access Mangatepopo or Ketetahi car parks Grade Moderate Time 6-8hr one way Map BH34 and BH35
YAP ZHI YUEN
Trampers climb towards the summit of Red Crater. Steam fumaroles keep a small portion of Emerald Lake ice free
WAYPOINTS
ALPINE ROMANCE? Syme Hut, Mt Egmont National Park /
D
o you want to spend an unusual romantic evening with your partner? Syme Hut is one spot you don’t want to miss. Located at the top of Fanthams Peak, 1966m, on Mt Egmont/Taranaki, the hut offers peaceful solitude, gorgeous sunsets and magnificent views. All you have to bring is a bottle of wine and the candles. Warm sleeping bags are also a must because there is no heating. You can reach Syme Hut at any time of year, but off-season is worth considering because there will be snow around (thus
MODERATE
nicer scenery) and fewer people. If you make it an early spring destination, take ice axe and crampons to help you safely negotiate the steep upper slopes. The route can be demanding, but it should take less than three hours to be rewarded with one of the best scenes imaginable: white clouds slowly floating in rosy sun rays with the whole world seemingly beneath your feet. As the phrase goes, ‘If you are lucky enough to be in the mountains, you are lucky enough’. - Jakub Cejpek
WILD FILE Access Dawson Falls Visitor Centre is at the end of Manaia Road Grade Moderate.Alpine weather, snow in winter and early spring. Time 2-3hr Map BJ29
JAKUB CEJPEK
Syme Hut is an improbable romantic getaway
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
The Paparoa Range stretches out behind Jack as he takes the last few steps toward the summit of Mt Uriah
JASON BLAIR
Perfect tarn-side campsites are the reward for three trampers braving the thick tiger country of the Paparoa Range, by Jason Blair
WILD
PIONEERS
ROB BROWN
Filming a scene for the Grave-Talbot story on Homer Saddle
MODERN TWIST O N DA R I N G BAC K C O U N T R Y EXPEDITIONS What’s it like to film a TV show about some of the most audacious explorations of New Zealand’s backcountry? Rob Brown goes behind the scenes of First Crossings and Intrepid NZ