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family-friendly tramps Easy overnight walks
Baby on board Cycling the Otago
for the whole family
Central Rail Trail with a toddler on the back
All the know-how to plan your next family adventure
The truth about avalanches
Can luck really account for NZ’s low fatality rate?
august 2012
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WIN one of four MSR Whisperlite stoves! » A perfect day in Taupo » Winter on
the Tongariro Northern Circuit » Fiordland’s Earl Mountains mapped in 3D »
Trips in Aoraki National Park, the Ruahines, Dunedin and Tiritiri Matangi Open Sanctuary
Your trips, your pix What did you get up to last weekend? Palmerston North Tramping and Mountaineering Club members tramped to Rangiwahia Hut to celebrate mid-winter
Mitchell Chandler loved the views on the Kepler Track, which he walked with his parents
Em Oysten braved the snow to climb Mt Titiroa in Fiordland National Park
Simon Bainbridge and Dave Herries went on a pilgrimage to Lake Herries up the Freeman Burn in Fiordland National Park
11-year-old Matthew Hammond climbed Mt Fishtail in Richmond Forest Park with his dad Trev
Yvonne Ward coaxed Peter Ambrose and Declan Shea into a wintry Tararua Forest Park
Dave Digby and friends Clint and Julie Libby walked the Rimutaka Incline
Manfred Watt (far right) went snowshoeing at Mt Hutt with his brother Gerard and mate Regan
Send your pix Send us photos showing what you did last weekend and you’ll win neat outdoor prizes. This month, all photos published get the photographer a Spork. Head to www.wildernessmag.co.nz – search ‘last weekend’ – for full submission criteria.
Little Charlie Hart went on his first tramp with dad Ramon in Tongariro National Park
8 august 2012
James Cruikshank and his partner Carole waded across Hokuri River on their way to Hokuri Hut on the Hollyford Track
Lisa Podlucky enjoyed a paddle on beautiful Ruby Bay in Tasman Bay
Under one proposal, a monorail will be built in the pristine upper Whitestone Valley
Court battle looms over development proposals
T
e Anua locals are vowing to fight the proposed Milford Tunnel and monorail projects in the courts if the Minister of Conservation grants approval for the projects. The Save Fiordland group held a town meeting in June where it was decided to form an incorporated society and to start fundraising for the looming court battle should the minister grant concessions to Infinity Investment Groups which wants to build a monorail through Snowdon Forest and parts of Fiordland National Park, and Milford Dart Ltd which is hoping to construct a one-lane tunnel beneath the mountains of Mt Aspiring and Fiordland National Parks. One of the primary concerns of Save Fiordland is that both developments would jeopardise the area’s UNESCO World Heritage status. Fiordland National Park and Snowden Forest are both in the Te Wahipounamu World Heritage Area. “I’m absolutely convinced it will damage its reputation,” said Save Fiordland spokesperson Daphne Taylor. “It’s an amazing area that’s internationally recognised. And our tourism economy – not just Southland’s, but New Zealand’s – depends on it. People come here because we have world heritage areas. “I would hate to think they were going to be called into question because of these developments.”
In 2009 the Elbe Valley in Dresden, Germany, was removed from UNESCO’s list of World Heritage Areas because of a bridge that was built through the valley. UNESCO said the €160m ($252m) bridge destroyed the 'universal value' of the 18km-long section of the valley which had been protected. In another twist, when Wilderness asked Taylor if she believed either group had the money to finance the multi-million dollar projects she replied that no-one “expects either proposal to be built by the proposers”. “These guys are property investors, they do property investment well and then they flick it on and they tend to flick it on to overseas investors,” said Taylor. In the October 2011 issue, Wilderness reported on how DOC gave freehold title to Crystal Valley – a 198ha parcel of sub-alpine land valued at $320,000 in the Craigieburn Range to Blackfish Ltd, an Australian-owned company which also owned neighbouring Porter’s Ski Area. In return DOC received a 70ha block of coastal lowland forest at Steep Head Gulley on Banks Peninsula valued at $600,000. Blackfish went on to sell its interests in Porters Aki Area, including Crystal Valley, for $6.9m to PSA Capital Ltd, which is 60 per cent owned by Russian investors and 40 per cent owned by Australian interests. At the time, Michael Sleigh, a current director of Milford Dart Ltd, was a director of Blackfish. When asked if MDL planned to build the tunnel itself if the concession was granted or if it would sell the concession on, Sleigh said: “Our intention has always been to build the tunnel. That’s what we’ve applied for, but we’ll see.” He said there is interest among investors to help finance the tunnel. “There has been interest over the years in it and we just remain of the view that it’s a compelling proposition.” - Alistair Hall
wildernessmag.co.nz quiz When we asked readers which of these statements is avalanche fact, not avalanche myth, this is how they responded: 42.5 %
Avalanches are only caused by natural forces Avalanches only occur after a storm or heavy snowfall More climbers die in avalanches in summer than in winter 4.2 % 2.5 % 45.8 % 5.0 %
Sound can trigger avalanches I’m walking on the valley floor, I’ll be safe
The expert says: According to Andrew Hobman, Mountain Safety Council’s avalanche programme manager there are several myths associated with avalanches. He says up to 90 per cent of avalanches that involve people are triggered by the party and are not the result of natural forces. However, the stats show more climbers die in avalanches in summer than die in winter – proving when you're in avalanche terrain you can never let your guard down. Make as much noise as you like – you're not going to set off an avalanche that way. “The yodelling shepherd at the bottom of the valley cannot trigger an avalanche," says Hobman. Find out more about avalanches 'The truth about avalanches' on p36.
www.wildernessmag.co.nz
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waypoints
Spenser Mountains, Lewis Pass National Reserve moderate
16 august 2012
T
he Zampa Tops are one of Canterbury’s unsung gems and make a great weekend destination. The tops are easily traversed and make a convenient two-day round trip. Lying just north-east of Lewis Pass Highway (SH7) and running parallel to the Saint James Walkway, these windswept, tussocky tops make for easy travel and stunning views of the Spenser Mountains’ peaks of Gloriana and Faerie Queen. For those wanting to get off established tramping tracks and into some simple bush navigation this is an ideal trip, as the bush travel is easy and the tops relatively uncomplicated.
From Lewis Pass the tramp follows the easy but picturesque Saint James Walkway for the first day, ending at Ada Pass Hut. Tussock flats and crystal clear streams nearby make for great photo opportunities or an evening wander. This area’s not without its history too: these valleys were travelled by pre-European Maori to gain access to the coast. Cannibal Gorge is named for the large quantity of human bones discovered there after a conflict between two tribes. The victors reputedly cooked and ate their foes' remains on the spot. From Ada Pass Hut the tops are accessed after a one hour climb through beautiful open beech forest. Golden tussock benches and shimmering tarns make a welcome respite from the bush and a nice spot for a break as you emerge onto the tops. The range is then followed south-west for 2-3hr, passing craggy peaklets and offering awesome views of the Spenser Mountains to the north and Mt Technical on the other side of the highway. It’s hard not to
linger here; absorbing the landscape and enjoying the sensation of remoteness – despite only being a few hours from the road. The large tarns beneath Zampa’s summit make an ideal lunch spot before the long descent back to Cannibal Gorge is tackled.The entrance to the valley is steep at first but soon relaxes into a world of alpine plants, stunted beech and a babbling infant stream as it winds its way down to the confluence and Cannibal Gorge bridge, where a short climb back to the highway will warm you after the river crossings. - Mark Watson
Wild File Access From State Highway 7. Lewis Pass access point to Saint James Walkway Grade Moderate Map BT23 Lewis Pass Time Highway to Ada Pass Hut, 3.54hr; Ada Pass Hut to Zampa Summit and tarn 4-5hr; tarn to highway, 4hr.
Hana Black traversing the Zampa Tops
www.wildernessmag.co.nz
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Father’s Day Gift Guide
The perfect gifts for active, outdoor dads
1
Gifts under
$60
1- Light My Fire Mealkit $43.99
Ingeniously portable, incredibly versatile, spillproof and functional. The Light My Fire Outdoor Meal Kit is microwave and dishwasher safe, lightweight and made using environmentally friendly PP plastic. 320g. www.ampro.co.nz
2- Silva Ranger Compass $49.99
2
3
Featuring luminous markings for night navigation, detachable safety-release lanyard, DryFlex grip and a use-anywhere declination scale inside the capsule. Magnifying lens and base plate map-measuring in millimetres and scales of 1:50,000 and 1:25,000. www.ampro.co.nz
3- Veho 360 Bluetooth Speaker $59.99
Portable 360 Bluetooth wireless speaker with rechargeable battery. Ultra Small and portable with a BIG sound. Built-in Li-Ion rechargeable battery gives up to 4hr of constant playback. www.fmlnz.com
4- Merrell Classic Hiking Crew $39
Warm and practical, the mid weight hiking crew from Merrell is 40% wool for warmth 39% nylon 20% polypropylene and 1% Lycra. www.merrell.com/nz
5- Victorinox Climber $59.99
5
The classic Victorinox knife with 14 essential functions. Includes scissors, blades, corkscrew, screwdrivers, wire stripper, toothpick, tweezers, parcel hook and bottle/ can openers. 85g. www.ampro.co.nz
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6- Thorlos 84N Runner $36
6
Just another sock for dad? Not quite, Thorlo’s new 84N runner socks are the ultimate in foot protection, designed specifically to protect dad’s feet from the harsh impact and friction forces during running and other sports. www.ilovemysocks.co.nz
7- Kathmandu Cycle Multi Tool $49.98
Ideal for all cycling enthusiasts, this handy tool will fix bikes on-the-go. Extremely lightweight, the tool includes 19 functions including a wrench, chain tool, spoke tool, hex key, tyre level and flat head screwdriver. www.kathmandu.co.nz
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8- Classic New Zealand Mountain Bike Rides $39.90
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24 august 2012
The latest edition of New Zealand’s mountain biking bible covers 310 rides around the country. If it’s worth biking, it’s in this book. www.kennett.co.nz
waypoints
Shaun Barnett/Black Robin Photography
W
A kaka on Kapiti Island Nature Reserve
...
Three places to see this endemic bush parrot
hen approaching Kapiti Island by boat, you can often hear the resident kaka even before you land. A raucous, unconducted symphony of screeches and whistles, which, like its name, is loud, staccato and unmistakable. These large, red-brown bush parrots, closely related to kea, have strikingly-coloured underwings that flash when the birds fly over the forest canopy. On offshore islands, kaka scream, chatter, clown-around and will sometimes even land on the heads of human visitors. Yet on the mainland, the behaviour of kaka is noticeably different. The birds are rare, more often heard than seen, and in no way trustful of humans. In pre-European times, kaka were the undisputed aristocrats of mainland forests. Good fliers, they swept across vast tracts of forest in flocks of hundreds, their harsh croaks reverberating. It seems impossible today to imagine a forest with tens of thousands of kaka living in it, but skilled Maori hunters could catch a hundred or more in a single day. Even in the early 1900s, West Coast explorer Charlie Douglas wrote: ‘Caw Caw’ (as he called kaka) were ‘very easily tamed, and when caught young can be taught to speak – in a sort of way – but it is not a desirable bird about a house, being much addicted to mischief, tearing everything it gets hold of, giving vent to fearfull yells, if disturbed in its amusements, and in the still hours of the night they liven up the place by whistling their national melodies with the power of a locomotive.’ Mainland kaka have been in decline since human occupation, due to predation and competition from introduced animals, forest destruction and hunting pressure. Without ongoing management, we will lose them from New Zealand’s remaining forests. These endemic parrots are divided into two sub-species: the North Island kaka (Nestor meridionalis septentrionalis) and the South Island kaka (Nestor meridionalis meridionalis). North Island kaka are rare on the mainland apart from the forests of Pureora, Whirinaki and Te Urewera. South Island kaka still survive in moderate numbers in Fiordland, Mt Aspiring and Westland. Happily ‘mainland islands’ – areas where DOC controls predators – offer great hope for the birds, notably the large one in the northern part of Te Urewera National Park. Wellington’s bird sanctuary Zealandia is another excellent place to experience North Island kaka on the mainland, as are several accessible islands like Kapiti. - Shaun Barnett
1 Kapiti Island Nature Reserve, Wellington Kapiti Island is only twenty minutes by boat from mainland Paraparaumu. To book a trip to the island, contact DOC (P: 04 384 7770). Being large and vocal birds, kaka have a dominant presence on the island.
Great Barrier Island Kapiti Island Nature Reserve Zealandia
2 Zealandia, Wellington
Watching a kaka fly past your house, or even having one land in your garden, is not such an uncommon experience these days thanks to predator-free Zealandia, formerly known as the Karori Wildlife Sanctuary. The fenced-off sanctuary is easily reached from the city via bus, and offers a myriad of tracks from which to encounter numerous birds, including kaka.
3 Great Barrier Island, Hauraki Gulf, Auckland
Great Barrier is one of New Zealand’s largest islands to remain free of stoats or other mustelids and as a happy consequence, kaka still abound on the island. Great Barrier offers excellent tramping, mountain biking and camping, with kaka often forming background chatter to these activities. Getting to the island from Auckland is simple by plane or ferry.
www.wildernessmag.co.nz
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The truth
about
a
Avalanche fatalities in New Zealand are low compared to many other nations, but experts here say that is more down to luck than anything else. Josh Gale investigates
36 august 2012
A massive avalanche slides towards Milford’s Homer Tunnel
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Wild
families
It’s more fun with kids 42 august 2012
Shaun Barnett/Black Robin Photography
You’ve spent your lifetime in the outdoors – tramping and camping with mates, climbing mountains and bagging huts. But now you’ve got kids, everything has to change, right? Not if you follow the advice and real-life outdoor experiences found on the following pages.
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Rain clouds start to threaten on the downhill stretch towards the township of Hyde; Tent accommodation gets the thumbs up from Anika; Cyclists aren’t the only traffic on the rail trail
“Hi.” “Hey. Good day for it.” “Sure is.” “Good café not far ahead. Great coffee.” “Cool, thanks.” And then we’ve run out of space for any more chat as our bikes pass each other along the Otago Central Rail Trail. Behind me I can hear the now familiar gasp of surprise. “Hey. Is that a . . . ?” “Yes. Did you see that honey? A baby. On the back of that bike.” “Hmm. Brave parents.” I smile to myself, but I didn’t feel so brave yesterday. Standing with my 18-month-old daughter next to my bike at the start of the rail trail, 150km suddenly seemed like a long way. As Anika squirmed while I tried to rub more sunscreen on her arms, I felt more than a little apprehensive. I had no idea if I was about to enter three days of hell, or if this would become one of those trips I could look back on – when my daughter grew up to be a downhill, mountain biking speed demon – and say: “It all started here.” I let out her straps to allow for the pillow I’d added to give her seat a little extra cushioning and quelled my last minute doubts. After all, I wasn’t entering into this venture un-equipped. The make-do basket strapped to the front of my bike contained apples, bananas, mandarins, muesli bars, bier sticks, crackers, hummus, cheese, a soft-toy tiger, loads of sunscreen, baby wipes, nappies, plastic bags, a spare jersey, spare shorts, a spare singlet, a spare t-shirt, wet weather overalls and jacket (you never know, even in sunny Central Otago), a sun hat, a baby book, a camera, and, most importantly, hidden way down the bottom, an emergency supply of out-and-out-bribery – jelly snakes. 48 august 2012
This wasn’t my daughter’s first time on the bike and I had quickly learned even a few kilometres can become a long, unpleasant pedal with a whining, crying toddler on the back. I don’t like giving lollies and sweets to my daughter but when the back of the bike starts to rock wildly and home is still half an hour away, all good intentions and high morals are abandoned with lightening speed. Besides, I have good memories of my own mum taking me tramping when I was young. I can remember stampeding through mud and a fantail flip-flopping around my tramping boots. But I can also remember it was the promise of chocolate snacks that got me to put those boots on in the first place. So with a deep breath, we left the car to bake in the car park for the next three days, cranked up the pedals and were off. It took me by surprise when that sudden, giddy feeling of freedom you always get at the start of a holiday road trip engulfed me. Anika chatted on the back of the bike – “sheep”, “horse”, “bike” – while my husband and I caught up on what seemed like months worth
of chatting as the tyres hummed and spat stones. The former railway track had connected the Central Otago goldfields to the city of Dunedin and on the long, gravelled straights Anika extended her vocabulary with new words like cutting, tunnel, viaduct and gorge. It took 16 years to build the railway, and labourers, stonemasons, blacksmiths and engineers worked through the scorching summers and harsh winters to eventually reach Clyde in 1907. However, by 1921 the goldrush was over and the railway line was mostly used to freight goods and supplies until road transport rendered it defunct. Today, the sightseeing Taieri Gorge Railway train still runs between Dunedin and Middlemarch, but at the other end the final stretch of railway between Clyde and Cromwell lies drowned beneath manmade Lake Dunstan. The local community and the Department of Conservation rallied to preserve the 150km stretch between Clyde and Middlemarch and convert it to a cycling and walking trail. The railway was re-surfaced with hard-packed gravel and 68 bridges were re-decked and
fitted with handrails, before the rail trail opened in 2000. I’d had visions of sailing along through dry, golden plains of tussock, cutting the silence with a trail of wails and tears, but instead my daughter entertained herself by kicking off her shoes and constantly pulling down the back of my pants. She also gave us plenty of excuses for breaks and coffee stops, but while the going was good and she was happily singing, or sleeping on the back, we ate as many miles as we could. When we reached our first night’s destination, Anika was in heaven as we pitched our tent right next to the playground. Later that evening, stomachs bulging after a huge meal at the Omakau Commercial Hotel, the three of us squeezed into our two-man tent. Or more accurately, Anika lay sprawled comfortably like a cat in the middle, while my husband and I lay pinned against the sides. I felt a curious mix of being both adventurous and boring all in one go. I was elated at how well the day had gone, but aspects of this trip were so foreign to our usual experience of the great outdoors. Taking a toddler outdoors for days at a time, rather than just down to the park in her stroller, felt adventurous. But eating out, instead of firing up the cooking stove, and paying someone to ferry our bags felt a bit like cheating. There was a time we would never have even contemplated paying someone to take our bags, when we could stuff everything into panniers and carry it ourselves. There was that same strange mix of relief we weren’t doing it the hard way and longing that we were, when we passed others on heavily laden bikes. In the morning, however, all the affirmation we need that we’re doing the right thing is there. Anika is up and has her cycle helmet on before we’ve even had breakfast. The second day of riding traverses the rocky Poolburn Gorge, enters long, pitch-black tunnels and crosses massive viaducts. We pass the halfway point and, while the trail rises so gently it doesn’t feel as if you’re pushing uphill, suddenly we’re cruising along at twice the speed for half the effort. When we stop at Wedderburn for the night, I chat to a masseuse who has set his massage table up outdoors next to the rail trail and is waiting for business. The plan is to ride 75km on our last day, as we nonchalantly overlook the fact it is double the distance of previous days. It is, after all, all downhill to Middlemarch, and we have to stop and put a windproof jacket and hat on Anika as our legs spin furiously and we fly along. The day started off fine, but after a lengthy lunch, lying back in the long, dry grass bathed in sunshine, the sky began to change. An intended coffee stop in tiny Hyde was bypassed as Anika dozed off on the back of the
Anika fast asleep on the back of the bike drew many exclamations of surprise from other cyclists; Below: Crossing the curved Manuherikia Bridge No.1
Anika is up and has her helmet on before we’ve had breakfast
bike and big black clouds began to bulge on the horizon. The barking of a big, boisterous Huntaway and sharp calls and whistles to a skinny Collie to “get away back” and “go right” woke Anika up and she pitched in with her own barks as we passed a flock of sheep travelling along the trail. Fat rain drops started to ooze from the sky and then Middlemarch appeared on the horizon, at the end of the longest, straightest section of trail yet. We picked up the pace again, but no matter how hard our legs pumped the cluster of houses never seemed to draw any closer. The jelly snakes were finally called upon and Anika took full advantage of her compliant mother as she cried for “more snake, more snake”.
The rain had just increased to the level that would warrant stopping to dig out raincoats and waterproof overalls, when we coasted through the big white gate that marked the end of the trail. I was secretly grateful that Middlemarch’s campground was closed and we had to instead stay in the pub. As we sipped our celebration beers, the bar began to fill up with shearers and Anika managed to charm a room full of weathered, old farmers. After a few days rest in Wanaka, I decided to try out a new mountain bike track that followed the lake shore from town out to Glendhu Bay where we were camping that night. I installed Anika on the back of the bike, decided I couldn’t be bothered spending 10 minutes digging my shoes out of the car, and set off. I’m not quite sure where I had got the idea that this track was an easy ride like the rail trail. It started off pleasantly enough, but as people passed me coming back the other way, kitted out in full biking regalia I began to wonder about the strange looks I was getting. Suddenly the path began to steepen, then to narrow, and then it got too rocky and bouncy to ride for Anika. I began to push the bike along the bumpy sections and up and down the steep hills. After an hour, with no end in sight, I began to curse myself for being so stupid and cocky. Having expected to be back at camp by now, I hadn’t brought any food with me to placate my toddler and to top it all off as she began to wail, my jandal broke. When we finally limped into camp I had well and truly learned my lesson. The days of just winging it are gone.Taking off into the outdoors with a toddler is great as long as you are prepared and have done your homework. I just hope that one day my daughter will remember the fun of shining her own torch around and shouting “echo” as she glided through dark tunnels. And that perhaps she will have memories of harriers soaring overhead while she picnics in long, scratchy grass. www.wildernessmag.co.nz
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For New Zealand ranging visit www.merrell.com/nz 82 august 2012