Willamette Week's Finder 2018 by Willamette Week Newspaper

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FINDER 2018

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B ROUGH T TO YOU BY

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SOUTHWEST WATERFRONT AND MACADAM P. 159 HILLSDALE P. 162 MULTNOMAH VILLAGE P. 164

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G R EEN M AX L I N E C l a c ka m a s , C i ty Ce nte r, P S U

WILL AMETTE WEEK

EDITOR’S NOTE L

amenting the loss of Old Portland in the midst of incredible change is a citywide pastime. But if you think this city has lost its soul, you aren’t looking hard enough. Willamette Week’s Finder exists to help you discover Portland’s soul circa 2018. That means sending writers deep into the city’s neighborhoods, organized into 14 coherent districts, creating an adventurous, encyclopedic map of where people eat, drink, shop and hang out in Portland. Our first goal in publishing this guide is to help locals act like tourists, and to make tourists feel at least a little like locals. But there’s a lot more to it than that. This issue of Finder is also about telling some of the overlooked stories of Portland. One side effect of our reputation as the Whitest City in America is the erasure of the communities of color that have lived here since the first streets were laid down. At Northwest 3rd and Everett, my greatgreat-great-grandparents ran the Mikado Hotel at the start of the 1900s, catering to Japanese farm hands with a traditional bath house built underneath. Later, my greatgrandparents and my grandma, only a child at the time, were detained at the Expo Center for four months before being taken to an internment camp for Japanese Americans in the Idaho desert during World War II. Despite warnings that racial tension hadn’t improved, they came back to Portland in the years following the war––because this was their home. My grandma went on to marry an island boy and moved to Honolulu in the 1960s, only to return after realizing how much she missed skiing, her friends, and a rainy Thanksgiving. She left Portland for the best and worst reasons––and still came back home.

So while there are dark roots our city struggles to break away from, there is also something about Portland that makes it home for people of every background, through thick and thin. I hope this Finder is more than just a guide to living in Portland, but also serves as a guide to being a better Portlander. A Portlander who supports the locally run, multigeneration establishments that helped build this city and act as the veins that continue to pump the soul of Portland through the changing streets––and one who knows their neighbors and their neighborhood. We live in a real city now, with a pulsing population. It will take work to expand gracefully, but it will be all the more rewarding to do it with reverence for the people and stories that built this city. As we grow and change, so will our neighborhoods, and our guides. We hope you enjoy this one.

COVER PHOTO BY CHRISTINE DONG e di tor Lauren Yoshiko c o nsult i ng ed ito r Walker MacMurdo art di rec tor Rosie Struve c o py edi to r Matt Buckingham e di to ri al c on t r ib u to r s Tyler Alexander, Janelle Lassalle, Jordan Green, Pete Cottell, Donovan Farley, Penelope Bass, Crystal Contreras, Jay Horton, Andy Kryza, Elise Herron p h oto grapher s Christine Dong, Suzie Gotis, Emily Bernard Stevens, Thomas Teal, Sam Gehrke, CJ Monserrat, Katie Reahl, Justin Katigbak, Liz Allan, Kayla Sprint, Aubrey Gigandet, Rosie Struve ad desi gn er Aubrey Williams desi gn i n t ern Ryan Opiela-Young p ro m ot i on s m a nager Maria Margarita Caicedo STRATEGY DIRECTO R Anna Zusman ac c ount exec u t ives Michael Donhowe, Kevin Friedman, Rich Hunter, Sharri Miller Regan, Deanna Uutela FINDER 2018

—LAUREN YOSHIKO, editor ac c o un t i n g m a n ag e r Kim Engelke ac c o un ts rec e i va bl e Shawn Wolf m a n ag e r o f i n fo rm at i o n Brian Panganiban c i rc ul at i o n d i rec to r Spencer Winans as s o c i at e p u bl i s h e r Jane Smith p u bl i s h e r Mark L. Zusman Wi l l a m e t t e We e k 2220 NW Quimby St., Portland, OR 97210 503-243-2122 p u b l i s h e d by City of Roses Media Company Send comments to:

Lauren Yoshiko, editor, in front of the Mikado hotel, at NW 3rd and Everett, which was operated by her great-great-greatgrandparents in the early 1900s.

N AV I G AT I N G THIS YEAR’S FINDER We consider the traditional five quadrants (North, Northeast, Southeast, Southwest and Northwest) too general to demonstrate the unique character of Portland’s smaller neighborhoods. So we split the city into 14 districts instead, and those districts, in turn, into 45 individual neighborhoods. For example, in our version of Portland geography, the Inner Northeast District consists of three neighborhoods: Northeast Broadway and Sullivan’s Gulch, Northeast MLK, and Irvington. The first page of each district provides a snapshot of the area’s personality. The Neighborhood Notes tell historical fun facts and forgotten anecdotes from those neighborhoods. Because I believe a shared attention to coffee, cannabis, dogs, and locally sourced organic groceries unites every neighborhood and nearly all Portlanders, the Picks at the bottom of these opening pages aim to represent the general vibe in that part of town.

laurenyterry@gmail.com

DOWNTOWN

HEY’RE RUNNING OUT OF ROOM IN DOWNTOWN. Since the city’s rebirth in the late ’90s, the inner westside has been an epicenter of the trends that have come to shape the farther reaches of Portland years later. Our first big restaurants, the ones before Portland was a “food city,” were born along Southwest Broadway. Before people were pissed about condos on Martin Luther King Jr. Boulevard and Grand Avenue, they were pissed about condos in the Pearl District. Very quietly, the city is pushing the limits of how hard it can make life for the substantial number of homeless people who live downtown. For a long time, Portland’s development was most explosive in the West End and Pearl District—neighborhoods forested in construction work for a decade straight. In the last year, however, we’ve seen more construction near Portland State University than near Powell’s Books, and more new businesses jumping into Old Town than the area surrounding Pioneer Square. They’re still finding crummy buildings to knock down. But we’re on the verge of a new era, one in which we may find ourselves pining for New Old Portland, the city we lived in before we woke up in Little Seattle.

BY WALKER MACMURDO I am a freelance journalist and creative director who has lived in the South Park Blocks since moving to Portland almost four years ago. In 2016 and 2017, I had the pleasure of editing Finder. I’m very proud to contribute to this year’s edition. You can find me working at Heart Coffee downtown during the day, and grabbing a cocktail at Shift Drinks or beer at Bailey’s Taproom in the evening. On weekends, I’m shopping at Machus on East Burnside and then I’m downing dumplings and vodka at Kachka until I pop. NEIGHBORHOOD NOTES Naito Parkway is named in honor of Bill Naito, a Japanese-American and native Portlander who helped revitalize the inner westside from the 1960s through the 1990s. He coined the name “Old Town,” donated land to create space for the Saturday Market, and is the father of the “Portland Oregon” sign gleaming above the Burnside Bridge. Now occupied by the homeless nonprofit Central City Concern and John’s Cafe, the Golden West Hotel (Northwest Everett Street and Broadway) was the social hub of Portland’s black community from 1906 to 1931. The city’s first black-owned legal offices, medical clinic and newspaper, The Advocate, all started out on its lower floors.

Emily Bernard Stevens

THE PICKS WHERE TO GRAB A CUP OF JOE, BUY WEED, WALK YOUR POOCH, AND PICK UP GROCERIES.

HEART COFFEE 537 SW 12th Ave. 503-224-0036 heartroasters.com

VIRTUE SUPPLY COMPANY 510 NW 11th Ave. 971-940-6624 virtuesupplycompany.com

TOM MCCALL WATERFRONT PARK 98 SW Naito Parkway

WORLD FOODS 830 NW Everett St. 503-802-0755 worldfoodsportland.com

O L D T O W N / C H I N AT O W N OH GOD, THERE’S A STARBUCKS in Old Town now. Long thought ungentrifiable, Old Town has played home to some of the city’s most hard-luck communities, whether they were the prewar Japanese immigrants who first christened the area Nihonmachi, the Chinese immigrants who transformed it into Chinatown before mostly moving east to 82nd Avenue, or the homeless population who, today, use Old Town’s shelters as a nexus of support. Yet the first horseman has arrived, and the area already seems much different than it did just a few years ago. One of the city’s most prominent homeless camps, Right 2 Dream Too, was evicted in 2017. The former flophouse across the street from it is being turned into a fancy hotel. This spells good news for the many boutiques that have made the area into Portland’s answer to Los Angeles’ Fairfax, but it also suggests curtains on the last bastion of a grittier time in the city’s past.

EAT BOWERY BAGELS

310 NW Broadway, 503-227-6674, bowerybagels.com. Breakfast and lunch daily.

A neighborhood favorite, the subway-tiled Bowery is a place to grab an inexpensive New York-style bagel ($1.75, $17 for a baker’s dozen) and schmear while you’re out and about or to settle in with a sandwich ($5.50-$8.50) on a bagel or housemade bread for a relaxed lunch. $.

KASBAH MOROCCAN CAFE

201 NW Davis St., 971-544-0875. Lunch MondaySaturday, dinner Friday-Saturday.

At this tiny, sunlit Moroccan cafe, you should order the bastilla ($7), a flaky, sweet-savory almond and chicken pastry dusted with an inordinate amount of powdered sugar, and wash it down with a pot of gently sweetened mint tea while watching the city employees whose offices are nearby rush around outside. $-$$.

Liz Allan

must

INDEX 114 NW 3rd Ave., 503-208-3599, indexpdx.com. Mike Nguyen and Terrance “Tee” Ricketts’ sneaker resale boutique is one of the major players in Old Town’s nowbooming shopping district. Though Portland’s sneaker community has expanded exponentially in the past few years, Index remains a one-of-a-kind place to buy unique and extremely rare sneakers on the secondary market—like the special Player Editions of Air Jordans given to University of Oregon athletes (not to mention those given to the pros), highly sought-after pairs from Kanye West’s Yeezy line, and more modest models collectors pine for. Come in when the Blazers are playing a home game and you may spot a visiting athlete adding a new jewel to his collection.

MI MERO MOLE

32 NW 5th Ave., 971-266-8575, mmmtacospdx.com. Lunch and dinner daily.

Mi Mero Mole is the place to go for one of Portland’s most improbably inexpensive soporifics: a 12-ounce beer (get Negra Modelo), a steely shot of Pueblo Viejo blanco tequila and a massive burrito, all for $10. MMM forgoes the usual rice and bean burrito fillers for luxuriantly stewlike guisados (think spicy pot roast) and a sometimes disturbing amount of cheese, each bite as good the best bite of most other burritos. $.

SUSHI ICHIBAN

24 NW Broadway, 503-224-3417. Lunch TuesdayFriday, dinner nightly.

KASBAH MOROCCAN CAFE | Thomas Teal

FINDER 2018

At Sushi Ichiban, chefs prepare delicious sushi and assorted Japanese snacks and desserts placed on one of six colors of saucer-sized plates from white ($1.50) to green ($4.50). The plates are set atop a flatcar pulled by a toy locomotive that tirelessly circumnavigates the counter. You’ll be hard-pressed to make it out for more than $12. $. DOWNTOWN

Ian Williams, owner of Deadstock Coffee

DRINK DEADSTOCK COFFEE

408 NW Couch St., deadstockcoffee.com.

In a few short years, Ian Williams’ sneakerthemed Deadstock Coffee has morphed from a hole-in-the-wall upstart into a hub for Portland’s sizeable sneakerhead community and a consistent promoter of the coolest coffee and streetwear events in town.

RED ROBE TEA HOUSE

310 NW Davis St., 503-227-8855, redrobeteahouse.com.

Red Robe is one of the finest teahouses in town, pouring teas from complex Da Hong Pao (literally, “big red robe”) to beautifully smoky roasted Tie Guan Yin. If you’re lucky, gracious owner Pearl Zhang will perform the gongfu tea ritual at your table, rinsing and sealing and short-steeping your tea for maximum flavor without bitterness.

GROUND KONTROL

115 NW 5th Ave., 503-796-9364, groundkontrol.com. All ages noon-4:30 pm, 21+ until close.

Part classic video game arcade, part classic video game arcade-themed bar, the recently renovated Ground Kontrol now sports a retro sci-fi sleek bar to complement its dozens of mostly ’80s and ’90s throwback classics— plus a list of inexpensive cocktails to keep the gaming lively once the bar closes to little kids in the afternoon.

TUBE

18 NW 3rd Ave., 971-229-1802, tubepdx.com. Closed Monday.

Portland’s club scene has recently been in something of a revival, but since 2001, Tube has been one of Old Town’s choicest destinations for cutting a rug. A compact, metallined tunnel (hence, Tube), the snug bar keeps the energy hot and heavy, regularly plays host to live DJs who keep everyone rubbing up against each other until the wee hours.

DOWNTOWN

Thomas Teal

MAXWELL 20 NW 3rd Ave.

Maxwell is something like Tube 2.0 (it’s owned by the same people): a slightly more spacious, more chill bar with a vegan menu, better seating and conspicuously good art that draws a less horny, more artsy crowd. It’s equally as good a place to dance later at night as it is to grab a vegan steak sandwich earlier.

SHOP KIRIKO MADE

325 NW Couch St., 503-222-0335, kirikomade.com.

A truly singular boutique, the team at Kiriko Made imports rare, discarded Japanese fabrics and uses traditional garment production techniques to make contemporary, stylish streetwear, homewares and decorations in a back-of-house workshop.

FLOATING WORLD COMICS 400 NW Couch St., 503-241-0227, floatingworldcomics.com.

Part comic shop (with an enormous catalog of indie works), part art gallery, part record store (with one of the weirdest selections we’ve seen anywhere), Floating World is one of Portland’s best places to see the graphic arts and support local artists.

FLOATING WORLD COMICS | Sam Gehrke

UNSPOKEN

219 NW Couch St., 503-208-3660, unspokenpdx.com. Closed Monday.

When Ira LaFontaine isn’t designing Trail Blazers-themed streetwear for his label Trillblazin’, he’s running this sleek menswear boutique. Unspoken carries a house line, plus LaFontaine’s Trillblazin and Tabor Made labels as well as sought-after pieces from national brands like Pleasures and Carhartt Work in Progress. WILL AMETTE WEEK

GO BLUE SKY

122 NW 8th Ave., 503-225-0210, blueskygallery.org.

Since 1975, nonprofit Blue Sky has been Portland’s go-to for fine photography. See exhibits from international artists like Zun Lee’s Father Figure, a striking series of portraits of African-American fathers and their children taken in New York City. Don’t skip “the drawers,” a collection of contemporary works from Pacific Northwest housed in—you guessed it—a series of drawers.

AUGEN GALLERY

716 NW Davis St., 503-546-5056, augengallery.com. Closed Sunday-Monday.

One of Portland’s elite fine arts galleries, Augen regularly shows exhibits from established national and Northwestern artists, frequently showcasing prints of works from some of the 20th century’s most important artists (think Joan Miró and Jasper Johns important).

FROELICK GALLERY

714 NW Davis St., 503-222-1142, froelickgallery. com. Closed Sunday-Monday.

The Froelick’s monthly shows, which open every First Thursday (page TK), showcase some of the best new visual art in the city—like Gail Tremblay’s Re-Imagining Film Images of American Indians, which weaves film strips depicting Native Americans into beautiful baskets.

LAN SU CHINESE GARDEN

239 NW Everett St., 503-228-8131, lansugarden.org.

A collaboration between Portland and Suzhou, Portland’s Chinese sister city, Lan Su is one of the most authentic Chinese gardens outside of China. Take a break from the bustle of downtown and enjoy a cup of tea, a poetry reading or the occasional jazz performance.

OREGON JEWISH MUSEUM AND CENTER FOR HOLOCAUST EDUCATION 724 NW Davis St., 503-226-3600, ojmche.org.

Incorporating the archives of the Jewish Historical Society of Oregon, the new location on the North Park Blocks has a permanent collection of art and artifacts from Jewish Oregonian experiences, during the Holocaust and after, and also hosts exhibits like a collection pf oil paintings of R.B. Kitaj.

ROSELAND THEATER 8 NW 6th Ave., roselandpdx.com.

For decades, the Roseland has remained a vital music venue to the youth of Portland. It’s where our parents’ generation saw Queen for a quarter in the late 70s. Where the likes of Little Dragon and Kali Uchis now stack up a line around the block on a Saturday evening. It’s standing-room only, always a little grimy, and I hope it never changes. FINDER 2018

DOWNTOWN

WILL AMETTE WEEK

PEARL DISTRICT AT THE PHRASE “PEARL DISTRICT,” the hip Portlander shudders: “Ew.” For as long as I’ve been here, this part of town has been maligned as Portland Gone Wrong—a boho art district bought up by developers and turned into a blight of overpriced condos, mediocre Italian restaurants and overpriced garbage for the tasteless rich. They’re not all the way wrong, but the Pearl gets more hate than it deserves. The northern corner of the neighborhood is home to some of downtown’s nicest, most ambitious public parks, and you’ll find two of the city’s top breweries within a block of each other. Plus, there’s a bookstore you may have heard of. And the Pearl still boasts the best block party in the city the first Thursday of each month.

must

FIRST THURSDAY The first Thursday evening of every month, firstthursdayportland.com. On First Thursday, about half the Pearl District and half of neighboring Old Town turn into a gigantic block party in the evening. The two neighborhoods are home to a huge proportion of the city’s fine art galleries, and these evenings celebrate new installations by local and national artists, live musical and artistic performances, special food events and myriad fun surprises, all held together by a healthy dose of booze. Events and openings are constantly changing, but starting along the North Park Blocks and making your way toward the sounds of revelry will certainly head you in the right direction. Something weird will be happening somewhere.

IRVING STREET KITCHEN

701 NW 13th Ave., 503-343-9440, irvingstreetkitchen.com. Dinner nightly, brunch Friday-Sunday.

At chef Sarah Schafer’s comfort spot, the must-have dishes are Southern-tinged staples: Benton’s smoked ham with fluffy biscuits, fried chicken with smashed potatoes and tasso ham gravy, and a bestin-town butterscotch pudding with gooey vanilla-caramel topping. $$$.

MEDITERRANEAN EXPLORATION COMPANY 333 NW 13th Ave., 503-222-0906, mediterraneanexplorationcompany.com. Dinner daily. Enid Spitz

EAT CAN FONT

1015 NW Northrup St., 503-224-3911, canfontportland.com. Dinner Monday-Saturday.

This bright, airy and bustling Spanish restaurant is the only outpost of a Michelin-rated Catalan restaurant in Barcelona. If it’s your first visit, try the tapas-like small plates – gaspatxo soup, Saltejat de Bolets Amb Pop I Llangostins (mushrooms, langostinos, and octopus), and Pernil Iberic I Pa Amb Tomaquet (Iberico ham with grilled bread). All the extras keep step: service, wine list, desserts, and coffee. Pretty much Perfect Pearl. $$$. FINDER 2018

John Gorham’s (Tasty n Sons, Toro Bravo) upscale Israeli spot has lately found its groove with Mediterranean classics, like the addictive spicy s’hug and Greek fried potato wedges doused in fragrant herbs. The lamb kebab pot pie with a baked bread top and the Moroccan brick chicken remain favorites. $$$.

OVEN & SHAKER

1134 NW Everett St., 503-241-1600, ovenandshaker.com. Lunch and dinner daily.

This pizzeria from the proprietor of Nostrana serves artfully charred wood-fired Neapolitan pizzas. Order bolder, speciality pizzas like the spicy salami with provolone, mozzarella and wildflower honey, or whatever has pork belly on it. $$$. DOWNTOWN

DRINK

SHOP

THELONIOUS WINES

POWELL’S CITY OF BOOKS

PORTLAND CENTER STAGE AT THE ARMORY

516 NW 9th Ave., 503-444-7447, theloniouswines.com. Closed Tuesday.

A new challenger in Portland’s increasingly competitive natural wine scene, this cozy bottle shop and bar’s ground floor offers an excellent selection of small production bottles from Willamette Valley (my fave is Newberg’s Swick Wines) and international producers. On the top floor, you’ll find a cozy lounge to enjoy glasses and half or whole bottles, plus snacks.

10 BARREL

There are only a couple of spots in Finder that “need no introduction,” and Powell’s, the palatial bookstore-cum-tourist attraction where you probably bought this publication, is atop the list. No matter who you are, if you find yourself in Portland, you will eventually end up in the best bookstore in America.

OBLATION PAPERS & PRESS

516 NW 12th Ave., 503-223-1093, oblationpapers.com.

The Pearl does its brewpubs as big and shiny as its condos, and 10 Barrel is no exception. At this outpost of the Bend-based brewery, enjoy head brewer Whitney Burnside’s delicious housemade beverages (she has a knack for sours), and if the weather is fine, do so on the spacious rooftop patio.

With letterpress print and cotton paper manufacturing shops (both on view to the public), Oblation can print you the fanciest damned custom baby shower invitations you’ll ever see. Oblation goes far beyond paper, carrying exquisite writing instruments, journals and refurbished typewriters among every kind of luxury stationery you could imagine.

VON EBERT

KEEN FOOTWEAR

1411 NW Flanders St., 503-224-1700, 10barrel.com.

131 NW 13th Ave., 503-820-7721, vonebertbrewing.com.

The newly opened Von Ebert is a kind of Frankenstein of the upper echelons of Portland’s beer community. Led by former Commons (RIP) head brewer Sean Burke and taking over the former Fat Head’s Brewing 10-barrel tank-to-tap brewpub, Von Ebert combines the best of both breweries’ talents, by way of the sleek Euro styles that put Commons on the map and the juicy hop bombs that built Fat Head’s name. Also, the wings are really good.

1005 W Burnside St., 503-228-4651, powells.com.

DOWNTOWN

515 NW 13th Ave., 503-402-1520, keenfootwear.com.

The brand of choice for Portland parents who want comfort and style in the office and on the mountain, outdoor and workwear brand Keen has one of the coolest showrooms in Portland. Shop indestructible boots, socks and hiking sandals—displayed on pulley-activated platforms—and never get caught underprepared for a Tuesday afternoon trek again.

128 NW 11th Ave., 503-445-3700, pcs.org.

Housed inside of a former Oregon National Guard armory first built during the backlash from the Chinese-American community in the midst of anti-Chinese sentiment in the early 1900s, the actually fortresslike Armory now hosts some of the city’s premier theater performances from the largest theater company in Oregon. See big-ticket shows like Chris Coleman’s adaptation of Peter Stark’s Astoria in the gorgeously renovated Gerding Theater.

BULLSEYE PROJECTS

300 NW 13th Ave., 503-227-0222, bullseyeprojects.com. Closed Sunday-Monday.

An offshoot of Southeast Portland glass manufacturer Bullseye Glass, Bullseye Projects is a two-story fine art gallery dedicated to artists who mold glass into beautiful forms. A recent exhibition showcased works that look like riverbeds frozen in time and thin sheets of white glass folded over metal frames like fine linen.

GALLERY 114

1100 NW Glisan St., 503-243-3356, gallery114pdx.com. Closed Monday-Wednesday.

Just steps away from one of the Pearl’s busiest intersections lies a cool, sophisticated basement gallery that has exhibited unexpected local artists for almost 30 years. View works like the surreal photography of Jon Gottshall and one-of-a-kind exhibits like sketches by inmates from an Oregon penitentiary who are serving life sentences.

VON EBERT | Liz Allan WILL AMETTE WEEK

FINDER 2018

DOWNTOWN

must

CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT

PORTLAND OUTDOOR STORE 304 SW 3rd Ave., 503-222-1051. Closed Sunday. Before that messy Malheur National Wildlife Refuge business a couple years ago, it was easy to forget that Oregon east of the Cascades is high-desert cowboy country. The Portland Outdoor Store looks rough around the edges, but inside you’ll find three stories of cowboy-friendly outdoor and (oftentimes, chic) workwear by Pendleton, Filson, Carhartt, Wrangler and dozens more, plus a dedicated saddlery and extraordinary pairs of handmade cowboy boots from Lucchese. It’s one of Portland’s most underappreciated sartorial secrets.

THOUGH PORTLAND IS AS CLEANLY MODERN as every other big city on the West Coast, wander through the business end of downtown Portland and you’ll notice how very old many of our buildings are. According to a friend, this is because during the ’70s and ’80s, when other large American cities were tearing their three-story brick buildings down for skyscrapers, deindustrialized Portland was so devoid of cash that those beautiful 19th-century buildings just sat empty, dramatically extending their lives. This quirk of history makes Portland’s business district sometimes look more like a big East Coast center than it has any right to. A stroll up Broadway after a beer or two at Bailey’s will have you feeling like you’re in a different town altogether.

EAT AFURI

50 SW 3rd Ave., 971-288-5510, afuriramenanddumpling.com. Lunch and dinner daily.

WIZ BANG BAR

LITTLE BIRD

One of two really good spots in the fancy Pine Street Market food court, Salt & Straw spinoff Wiz Bang serves delightful takes on soft-serve ice cream, weaving fancy flavors like matcha blood orange and vanilla custard into lavish mini-sundaes, concretes and dipped cones. It’s the best ice cream spot downtown. $.

A new complement to this high-end ramen joint’s spacious eastside location, Afuri’s dumpling bar and "noodle lab" hit what may be the sweet spot between minimalism and bursting ambition: a low-key rumpus room with aggressive cocktails and goofball circus-food innovations like poke hard-shell tacos ($8 for two). $$. 215 SW 6th Ave., 503-688-5952, littlebirdbistro.com. Lunch-late Monday-Friday, dinner-late SaturdaySunday.

Gabe Rucker weaves his trademark whimsy into takes on French bistro classics—think coq au vin with fried chicken ($29)—into downtown’s best fancy sit-down spot. But true heads will tell you to venture in before 6 or after 10 (or all day in the bar on Sunday) for one of Portland’s best happy hours, when you can order a towering double brie burger ($7). $-$$$$.

LUC LAC

835 SW 2nd Ave., 503-222-0047, luclackitchen.com. Lunch-late daily, open till 4 am Friday-Saturday.

Fun fact about Portland: In this so-called “food town,” it is weirdly hard to get something to eat here after midnight, let alone after 2 am when bars let out. Luc Lac is one of the very few spots where you can stuff your drunken craw with delightful, heaping takes on Vietnamese classics in the wee hours of the morn. $.

DOWNTOWN

126 SW 2nd Ave., 503-384-2150, saltandstraw.com. Lunch and dinner daily.

BLESS YOUR HEART BURGER

126 SW 2nd Ave., 503-719-4221, byhpdx.com. Lunch and dinner daily.

The other special spot in Pine Street Market, John Gorham’s Southern-style burger joint (yes, this is a thing) is one of the absolute best in town, serving perfectly grilled burgs on springy potato buns. I like to order the double ($9.25) with a side of beef chili ($1) and wash it down with a Cheerwine ($3), but the titular BYH burger ($6.95) is also super-good. $.

Sam Gehrke

SANTERÍA

703 SW Ankeny St., 503-956-7624. Dinner-late nightly.

Go through the backdoor of the alleywaylike Santería and you’ll find yourself at Portland’s oldest strip club, Mary’s. Cross the street and you’ll find yourself at Bailey’s Taproom. Which is to say, Santería’s perfectly greasy, sauce-laden takes on ever so slightly elevated Mexican restaurant classics is in just the right place. $.

CHEZ DODO

STRETCH THE NOODLE

Chez Dodo is the only place to try food from the island nation of Mauritius in Portland, which just so happens to be very tasty. Order the mine frire, a dish of stir-fried ramenlike noodles and vegetables served with your choice of curry (I like the lamb), and a topping of cool mint-cilantro chutney. $.

At Stretch the Noodle, watch Xuemei Simard handmake Chinese noodles in front of your eyes while husband Duane cooks them into a short list of mind-blowingly hearty dishes. On a drizzly day, order the beef noodle soup ($8) topped with cilantro, chili oil and fried peanuts. $.

427 SW Stark St., 503-270-9258, chezdodopdx.net. Lunch Monday-Friday.

232 SW Washington St. Breakfast-early evening Monday-Saturday.

WILL AMETTE WEEK

DRINK TRYST

19 SW 2nd Ave., 503-477-8637, bartryst.com. Closed Monday.

Tryst is a decidedly chill oasis in the otherwise raucous Ankeny Alley bar district. A cavernous hangout in the former space of the long-tenured Portland mainstay Berbati’s Pan, this is a place to grab a delicious Asian fusion-style Tryst Burger ($12) with fried shallots and hoisin mayo and wash it down with a pint of Pfriem Pilsner post-work on a Wednesday or to wind down on a Saturday.

BAILEY’S TAPROOM

213 SW Broadway, 503-295-1004, baileystaproom.com.

Like many other Portland beer bars, Bailey’s serves about 26 taps of primarily Oregon craft beers, plus plenty of bottles, many of which are obscure, hard to obtain and very delicious. Unlike other Portland beer bars, Bailey’s is a beautiful space, filled with hanging plants and natural light. Bring in a burrito from Santería across the street and spend an afternoon sampling whatever looks right.

MARY’S CLUB

129 SW Broadway, 503-227-3023, marysclub.com.

Mary’s is a living monument to Old Portland in all of its glory. Sporting La Monte Montyne murals depicting exotic women in a variety of locales, the bar has been topless since the ’50s, and fully nude since the ’80s, when it famously hosted Courtney Love. Stick to $3.50 PBRs and buy the wisecracking dancers a drink between sets.

Emily Joan Greene

Open since 1902, Kelly's Olympian is one of the oldest bars in Portland.

KELLY’S OLYMPIAN

426 SW Washington St., 503-228-3669, kellysolympian.com.

Opened in 1902, this downtown landmark is the Galapagos tortoise of the Portland bar scene, a living artifact that’s seen the world change so many times there’s no reason to think it won’t still be around when our condos are replaced by 3D sky malls. Vintage motorcycles are suspended from the ceiling, and the interior is lit almost entirely by neon greaser swag.

NO VACANCY LOUNGE

235 SW 1st Ave., novacancylounge.com.

SANTERIA | Sam Gehrke

FINDER 2018

Willamette Week’s 2018 Bar of the Year reinvented Portland’s club scene. No Vacancy is driven by how club culture should appear through the lens of Portland: The drinks are top notch, happy hour is popping, and its operation is as user-friendly as possible. It’s a big-city nightclub for people who never knew they’d enjoy such a place. DOWNTOWN

SHOP 2ND AVENUE RECORDS 400 SW 2nd Ave., 503-222-3783, 2ndavenuerecords.com.

The best kind of record store is one literally packed to the rafters with musical ephemera. 2nd Avenue’s ceiling is a thickly layered forest of black cotton and diabolical slogans thanks to the dozens of heavy-metal tees that hang above shoppers, because the floor is too filled with CDs, vinyl and cassettes.

STAND UP COMEDY

511 SW Broadway, 503-233-3382, standupcomedytoo.com.

Recessed in an unassuming storefront in Morgan’s Alley arcade, Stand Up Comedy has been bringing high-end avant-garde womenswear (and unisex garments) to Portland’s best dressed long before it was cool to do so. Shop bleeding-edge brands like Eckhaus Latta, Issey Miyake and the city’s own Alexa Stark in one of Portland fashion’s true treasures.

HEIR

515 SW Broadway, heirportland.com. Closed Sunday.

For years, Portland was, at least from a retail standpoint, conspicuously bereft of the rest of the world’s infatuation with streetwear brands Supreme and Bape. Last year, Cam Gilmer and Kyan McKernan changed that with their resale boutique Heir, which over the course of six months has blossomed into a destination for rare, highly coveted streetwear pieces, a concert promoter and a hang for Portland’s coolest youths.

JOHAN

632 SW Pine St., 503-222-0119, shopjohan.com.

Laura Housgard’s tiny, all-white boutique is a top destination for the new wave of minimalist womenswear, carrying limit runs from international brands like Stutterheim and Portland’s Laurs Kemp. Johan recently expanded into curated menswear and vintage collections, plus has opened a coffee shop-cum-art project No Coffee nearby in Old Town.

MALOY’S JEWELRY WORKSHOP

717 SW 10th Ave., 503-223-4720, maloys.com. Closed Sunday.

Just forget about Tiffany & Co. Instead, if you’re shopping for a truly meaningful adornment for yourself or a significant other, stop by Maloy’s, where you’ll encounter a surprising selection of estate and antique jewelry, from Edwardian to modern. More important: You’ll be able to find something you can afford for practically any occasion. Maloy’s can make great custom pieces to your specifications. And if you’ve got a precious hand-me-down in need of repair, craftspeople are on hand to perform necessary restoration.

SERRA

220 SW 1st Ave., 971-279-5613, shopserra.com.

This bougie Portland pot shop carries the highest-end strains and concentrates, plus smokeware that looks more like art than bongs or pipes. Most of the flower is on the more expensive end at $12 to $14 a gram, but in this particular case, they’re worth it as long as the house farm, Pruf Cultivar, is being run by Jeremy Plumb, one of the state’s most esteemed cultivators.

2ND AVENUE RECORDS | Liz Allan

GO PIONEER COURTHOUSE SQUARE 701 SW 6th Ave.

“Wow, big secret,” you say sarcastically at the inclusion of Portland’s Living Room in this guide. On the one hand, yeah, duh. On the other, Pioneer Square has taken on newfound social importance in our current political climate as the go-to spot for increasingly huge protests, like the citywide high school walkout to protest gun violence on the 19th anniversary of the Columbine shootings.

BAIT

818 SW Broadway, 503-224-0531, baitme.com.

Part of a chain of nine stores that span the West Coast, Portland’s Bait is a go-to spot for the sneakerhead’s sneakerhead. Bait carries obscure silhouettes from Nike, Adidas, Asics, Puma and more for men and women, as well as hosts in-store releases for hyped drops like the multicolored Sean Wotherspoon Air Max 1/97 and the Yeezy Boost 500.

DOWNTOWN

SERRA | Sam Gehrke

WILL AMETTE WEEK

WEST END A FUNNY THING HAPPENED TO THE WEST END in the past couple of years: It has settled down. For years, Portland’s premier shopping district was in an endless state of flux, with drab commercial buildings from the area’s past as an offshoot of the Pearl District being renovated or torn down as fast as the money allowed. Sure, there are still a couple of new places coming up or going down today, but the area between Pioneer Courthouse Square and Interstate 405 has settled into a pattern of good food, good shopping and good tourism. For what seems like the first time in a while, this slice of downtown is a little quieter than its neighbors.

Rachael Renee Levasseur

EAT FRYING SCOTSMAN

Southwest 9th Avenue and Alder Street, 503-06-3841, thefryingscotsmanpdx.com. Lunch Monday-Saturday.

This cart’s eponymous Scotsman, James King, understands the fatty heart and soul of fish and chips: This dish should be so laden with fat as to have a wee squish of fryer oil emerge after each bite. This understanding is reflected in every rich bite of pillowy, crunch-shrouded cod and thick, starchy wedge of potato. The small ($9) is enough to feed an adult for a day. $.

Alise Moffatt, co-owner of Shift Drinks

NONG’S KHAO MAN GAI

417 SW 13th Ave., khaomangai.com. Lunch and dinner daily.

Nong’s khao man gai is the chicken that crossed the road, the river, the country and the ocean. The dish is as simple as it gets: tender chicken, rice and sauce blooming with soy, garlic, chili and ginger. Crunch it up with $2 chicken skins if you can, but it needs nothing else. $.

BING MI

Southwest 9th Avenue and Alder Street, 503-539-3617. Breakfast and lunch Monday-Friday, lunch Saturday.

Native to Northern China, the jianbing is a breakfast crepe made with black bean and chili pastes, egg, fresh and pickled veggies and a crispy cracker, which gives this savory breakfast or lunch wrap a delightful soft-crunchy texture. It is kind of like a Taco Bell Crunchwrap Supreme, except delicious in a delicious way, not delicious in a gross way. $.

CLYDE COMMON

1014 SW Stark St., 503-228-3333, clydecommon.com. Lunch-late daily.

Clyde Common has remained a beacon of lateaughts Portland foodie culture in the hippest of downtown hotels. Sip Jeffrey Morgenthaler’s bourbon-barreled negroni while noshing on culture-hopping seasonal cooking from togarashi-spiced popcorn bar snacks to goat steak drizzled in green curry. $$-$$$. FINDER 2018

must

SHIFT DRINKS 1200 SW Morrison St., 503-922-3933, shiftdrinkspdx.com. Everyone has different criteria for what makes a “good bar,” so it doesn’t really make sense to say there is a “best bar” in Portland. Shift Drinks has: a wine list as good as the best wine bars in the city, a cocktail lineup as good as the best cocktail bars in the city, and a seasonal tapas menu as good as the best tapas bars in the city. Shift Drinks serves a $3 pint of house beer from Portland’s Royale Brewing—which is better than most $6 pints in the city. It’s part of the all-day happy hour—which changes monthly, by the way— full of variations on all the stuff I just mentioned, the prices of which top out at $7. Definitely not the best bar in Portland.

MAURICE

921 SW Oak St., 503-224-9921, mauricepdx.com. Lunch Sunday-Monday.

Kristen Murray’s twee Kinfolk-ian “luncheonette” is a world of the bespoke, the pretty and the rustic. There is a daily openfaced smørbrød that may feature watercress, and a daily quiche that may feature squash blossom and chèvre, plus the pastries and cakes she became known for at Paley’s Place, from composed desserts to lovely scones. $-$$. DOWNTOWN

DRINK PARK AVENUE FINE WINES 626 SW Park Ave., 503-914-5595, parkavenuewines.com. Closed Sunday.

Though Park Avenue carries the best and brightest of the Oregon natural-wine wave, this bottle shop and wine bar ventures far beyond the slopes of the Willamette Valley. For the uninitiated, check the rotating shelf of staff picks just past the bar for a selection of exciting bottles that start in the $15 range. If you stay for a glass or two, take advantage of the Spatzle and Speck pop-up for seasonal, farm-to-table small plates.

MAAK LAB

REBELS AND HEROES

Minimalist scentmaker Maak Lab conjures some of the best and most interesting smells in Portland and infuses them into liquid and bar soaps, perfumes and candles, oftentimes on behalf of fancy clients like East Burnside’s Tusk restaurant. Start with the Streetside soap, which actually smells like concrete after a rainstorm.

Technically, there are all kinds of things one could hope to find when vintage shopping. But then there are a few things that we all really want when vintage shopping—perfectly distressed Levis, Carhartt work jackets, leather jackets, leather boots and Pendleton, just to name some. Rebels and Heroes carries all of the above, plus plenty of outdoorsadjacent secondhand surprises in abundance.

916 W Burnside St., 503-893-9933, maaklab.com. Closed Monday.

429 SW 10th Ave., 847-638-0530.

PÉPÉ LE MOKO

407 SW 10th Ave., 503-546-8537, pepelemokopdx.com.

Portland prides itself on its uniquely casual strip clubs and sexual liberalism, but it isn’t a particularly romantic city. That makes the candlelit cocktail bunker Pépé le Moko from startender Jeffrey Morgenthaler a welcome spot. Split a grasshopper ($15), an upscale take on the minty treat set off with just the right amount of fernet, with your sweetie and gaze lovingly into each other’s eyes.

SCANDALS

1125 SW Stark St., 503-227-5887, scandalspdx.com.

About as unpretentious as gay bars come, Scandals feels like it inspires anything but its namesake. Friendly staff and even-friendlier regulars make its “gay Cheers” reputation accurate instead of eye roll-inducing. Scandals’ spacious patio serves as the center of downtown’s Pride block party every year.

SHOP CHROME INDUSTRIES 425 SW 10th Ave., 503-719-4693, chromeindustries.com.

You ever see a bike guy zipping around with a big bag strapped to his chest that combines tactical aesthetics with near-indestructible build quality? He probably picked it up at Chrome, where Portland’s cyclists can get bike accessories like messenger bags and jackets that don’t make you look like a huge dorkus.

RICH’S CIGAR STORE

820 SW Alder St., 503-228-1700, richscigarstore.com.

Whether by accident or design, there is no cannabis dispensary in this slice of town. Instead, blaze up like they did in the good old days at the 120-year-old Rich’s, which carries hundreds of varieties of tobacco as well as a selection of thousands of newspapers and periodicals, including very obscure art, design and fashion mags from around the world.

POLER

413 SW 10th Ave., 503-432-8120, polerstuff.com.

Poler is now approaching national levels of brand recognition, and for good reason: Playful takes on traditional outdoor wear hit the right place between street and mountain. Just look at Poler’s Napsack, a wearable, insulated hybrid of sleeping bag and bodysuit that’s as good on the couch as it is on a windy Oregon beach.

DOWNTOWN

REBELS AND HEROES | Emily Bernard Stevens

WILL AMETTE WEEK

UNION WAY

WEST END SELECT SHOP

Union Way is a fancy mini mall that plays home to several distinctly Portlandy small businesses. Spend an hour wandering back and forth between hometown bootmaker heroes Danner Boots, denim experts Self Edge and Eugene-based leathermakers Will Leather Goods before grabbing some shave ice at Wailua or some mayo- and bonitoladen tater tots from Boxer Ramen.

Among Portland’s most underappreciated boutiques, WESS carries womenswear and kids’ clothing with a unisex, modernist bent. Shop left-field designers like Ashley Rowe, who fashioned an endlessly customizable overcoat out of a single piece of canvas.

1022 W Burnside St.

WEST END BIKES

1111 SW Stark St., 503-208-2933, westendbikespdx.com.

A full-service cycling shop in the heart of downtown, in a space as sleek as the Specialized road bikes that line the back of the shop, West End Bikes will provide you with the bike, gear and repair work you need to not have to take a car in Portland’s increasingly hellish traffic ever again.

Angel Olsen performing at McMenamins Crystal Ballroom

927 SW Oak St., 503-477-6221, westendselectshop.com. Closed Tuesday.

WM GOODS

1136 SW Alder St., 503-954-3398, shopwmgoods.com.

A one-stop shop for womenswear, pottery, scents, books and homewares, WM Goods carries all things contemporary Portland chic that’ll look as adorable on Instagram as they will in the office.

FRANCES MAY

1003 SW Washington St., 503-227-3402, francesmay.com.

This year, Frances May celebrates a decade as one of Portland’s most prominent mensand womenswear (and, recently, childrenswear) boutiques. Frances May is a place to shop for upscale takes on classic streetwear with plenty of formal and semiformal options from long-established brands like APC and Acne Studios, plus hot newcomers like Aimé Leon Dore.

GO ADAMS AND OLLMAN

209 SW 9th Ave., 503-724-0684, adamsandollman.com. Closed Sunday-Tuesday.

Sitting just outside of the fancy fine art gallery district north of West Burnside, the single-room Adams and Ollman hosts some of the city’s most forward-thinking visual art. It’s a place to catch exhibitions of vases reconstructed out of hundreds of shattered pieces of stoneware one month, and minimalist graphite drawings the next.

MCMENAMINS CRYSTAL BALLROOM

1332 W Burnside St., 503-225-0047, mcmenamins.com.

The Crystal Ballroom is kind of a concert venue turned upside down. On the top floor you’ll find the venue, replete with a springloaded floor (to assist with dancing, of course) that serves as one of the city’s most popular spaces for midlevel touring acts. Go one floor down and you’ll find the more intimate Lola’s Room, plus an in-house brewery that supplies the spacious ground-floor pub.

Thomas Teal

FINDER 2018

DOWNTOWN

C U LT U R E D I S T R I C T

PORTLAND’S CULTURE DISTRICT, home of the Portland Art Museum, the city’s largest theaters and Portland State University, had been relatively untouched by the development that has recently defined the city’s core. The homeless people, students, yuppies and retirees who live around the neighborhood’s verdant, statue-lined South Park Blocks coexist peacefully—not quietly, peacefully—the bustle arriving and leaving with the farmers market on Saturday mornings. Since last year, however, a conspicuous spurt of new development has emerged. On Broadway, PSU has a fancy new modernist building, complete with a cutesy donut shop on the bottom floor. On campus, a new auditorium has just opened. And the former Oregonian building, empty for years, is now shiny new office space. In the blink of an eye, there are three more third-wave coffee shops in the neighborhood. Though you can’t really gentrify an area that’s mostly century-old city institutions and office buildings, you can certainly try to make it look like everywhere else in Portland, protestations from the bronze busts of Teddy Roosevelt and Abraham Lincoln notwithstanding.

EAT BEHIND THE MUSEUM CAFE

1229 SW 10th Ave., 503-477-6625, behindthemuseumcafe.com. Breakfast-dinner TuesdaySunday, breakfast and lunch Monday.

Emily Bernard Stevens

Part cafe, part Japanese restaurant, part importer of Japanese curios and antiques, BTMC is one of Portland’s most singular and underappreciated cafes. From a menu full of authentic Japanese sweets and snacks, the onigiri with pickled tea leaves ($4) and coffee cookie ($2.50) are my favorites, perfect for a light lunch after a morning at the Portland Art Museum. $.

SESAME DONUTS

1503 SW Park Ave., 503-208-2503, sesamedonuts.com. Breakfast-late daily.

Until late last year, the only place you could find Beaverton’s beloved Sesame Donuts was in Portland’s western suburbs. The seven-strong chain finally opened its first location in Portland proper just a block outside of the PSU campus, where you can find dozens of varieties of cake and glazed doughnuts for less than $2 a pop, plus breakfast sandwiches, bagels and coffee. Never pay $4 for a doughnut or wait 45 minutes in line ever again. $.

21ST CENTURY PIZZA

DUCK HOUSE

Is 21st Century Pizza the “fanciest” pizza in downtown Portland? Definitely not. Is it, somehow, the best pizza in downtown Portland? I think so. An East Coast-style pizza window, 21st Century serves thick, delightfully greasy slices to students and drinkers until 11 pm. What’s more, an 18-inch pepperoni pie is only $19. $.

Want the best Peking duck in Portland? Don’t walk into Duck House. Call and order it, preferably two days in advance. Not for takeout, this perfectly prepared poultry sells out so fast you have to call ahead just to eat it in-house. The soup dumplings are a close second favorite, though there’s always enough of them to go around. $.

1221 SW Jefferson St., 503-954-1570. Lunch-late daily.

DOWNTOWN

1968 SW 5th Ave., 971-801-8888. Lunch and dinner Wednesday-Monday.

DUCK HOUSE | Emily Joan Greene

WILL AMETTE WEEK

Emily Bernard Stevens

Portland State University was founded in 1946 and currently enrolls over 28,000 students.

must

THE CROWS Downtown at dawn and dusk during cold months. Alfred Hitchcock, eat your heart out. As the leaves turn from orange to brown, a cacophony envelopes this slice of downtown. The South Park Blocks especially are home to thousands of crows whose cries can be heard for blocks when the sun rises and sets throughout winter. After dark, hundreds of silent, spectral figures hide against the black sky and bare branches in each tree. In the morning, residents may find themselves awakened at daybreak by the same chorus of caws, with the smell of ammonia heavy in the air from all the droppings. It’s a scene as macabre—and as magical—as it sounds.

Rachael Meziere

FINDER 2018

DOWNTOWN

DRINK HIGGINS

1239 SW Broadway, 503-222-9070, higginsportland.com. Lunch-late Monday-Friday, dinner-late Saturday-Sunday.

On one side of Higgins, you have one of Portland’s first best restaurants, Greg Higgins’ white tablecloth, farm-to-table spot that helped put Portland on the food map in the mid-’90s. On the other, you have a cozy wood-paneled bistro that boasts not just a tap list and Belgian-focused beer bottle selection that still puts the best beer bars in Portland to shame, but an excellent happy hour when you can enjoy unctuous plates of duck wings for a song.

SHOP CANOE & SPRUCE APOTHECARY 1233 SW 10th Ave., 503-889-8545, canoe.design. Closed Monday.

Last year, minimalist homeware and gift shop Canoe and high-end apothecary Spruce united under one roof. So Portland now has a one-stop shop for all unadorned nice things, whether it’s a Malin & Goetz moisturizer, cool coffee-table books, German-engineered pens that will last a lifetime, or miniature Japanese vases that hold a single flower.

URBAN FAUNA

939 SW 10th Ave., urbanfauna.com.

Need to get out of town for a couple days? This supplier of organic and natural pet food and accoutrements is also your neighborhood dog sitter. You don’t have to worry about your furry angel while you gallivant across New Orleans.

HIGGINS | Liz Allan

COLUMBIA SPORTSWEAR

911 SW Broadway, 503-226-6800, columbia.com.

For over two decades, this iconic location on Southwest Broadway has served as the Portland flagship store for an innovative outerwear, sportswear and footwear company. That means you get to see a broad swath of Columbia’s products—and you get access to great sales, including the two end-of-season sales for summer and winter. There’s always something new at the cutting edge of technology, and it’s a fun space to wander through.

TIME VAULT GAMES

1224 SW Broadway, 503-575-4887, timevaultgames.com.

Enter a corridor stocked high with board games, miniatures and dice on one wall and Magic: The Gathering products lining the entire space behind the counter on the other. TVG regularly hosts the most competitive M:TG tournaments in Portland, with a regular series featuring thousanddollar-plus prize pools. Some game stores in Portland are fancier, but none is better than Time Vault Games if you take your gaming seriously.

GO PORTLAND ART MUSEUM

1219 SW Park Ave., 503-226-2811, portlandartmuseum.org. Closed Monday.

In 2001, the Portland Art Museum acquired the collection of legendary New York art critic Clement Greenberg, giving the oldest art museum on the West Coast one of the best permanent collections of modern art in the country. Whether you come for that, the incredible collection of Native American art or one of the national-quality rotating exhibitions, PAM is a must-visit.

MOUNTAIN HARDWARE

722 SW Taylor St., 503-226-6868, mountainhardware.com.

For a decade now, this has served as the flagship store for a company long known for technically advanced, high-performance outdoor gear — with an emphasis on outfitting alpinists, perhaps the most demanding of all outdoorspeople. This outfit’s customer service is remarkably energetic, friendly and downright helpful. To get a sense of how technical—and useful—MH’s gear can be, ask to be shown the new Pathfinder backpacking tent and the Ghost Whisperer hooded down jacket.

PORTLAND ART MUSEUM | Emily Bernard Stevens

DOWNTOWN

WILL AMETTE WEEK

NW FILM CENTER

934 SW Salmon St., 503-221-1156, nwfilm.org. Closed Sunday.

NWFC is one of the key elements in Portland’s incredible film scene. At PAM’s Whitsell Auditorium (1219 SW Park Ave.), the center screens new and classic art film, often on 35 mm, throughout the week. The main office hosts classes for amateurs and auteurs alike—on filmmaking, screenwriting and just about every other creative endeavor you could pursue in film.

5TH AVENUE CINEMA

510 SW Hall St., 503-725-3551, 5thavecinema.com. Screenings Friday-Sunday.

Free for PSU students and $5 for everyone else (plus free popcorn), Portland State’s student-run 5th Avenue Cinema plays classics on 35 mm for the city’s budding film buffs. 5th Avenue’s selection runs to the left of mainstream, making it a great place to catch oft-forgotten gems like Strange Days, as well as more recent cuts from international directors.

PORTLAND’5 CENTERS FOR THE ARTS See portland5.com for locations and schedules.

Comprising Keller Auditorium, Arlene Schnitzer Concert Hall and the Newmark, Brunish and Winningstad theaters, the centers are where Portland’s adults go to catch a show, whether it is a concert by the Oregon Symphony, a performance by a nationallevel comedian, or a touring production of The Book of Mormon.

KELLER FOUNTAIN PARK Southwest 3rd Avenue and Clay Street.

The Keller Fountain is a striking, modernist tribute to the waterfalls of the Columbia River Gorge, and one of the best kept secrets in Portland’s belt of downtown parks. FINDER 2018

DOWNTOWN

WHERE TO GET ESPRESSO AFTER DINNER Portland has been described as a city with European flair. Sure, Portlanders take leisurely lunches, rarely think twice about skipping work for a protest, smoke their fair share of cigarettes, and certainly love espresso. But unlike Parisian cafes, most of ours close around 6 pm. Here are our favorites of the farbetween cafes open late, because some evenings call for a caffeinated conclusion. SOUTHEAST GRIND 1223 SE Powell Blvd., 503-473-8703. 24 hours a day. LOCALE 4330 N Mississippi Ave., 503-9461614, localepdx.com. 8 am-10 pm daily. PALIO 1996 SE Ladd Ave., 503-232-9412, palio-in-ladds.com. 7 am-11 pm Monday-Friday, 8 am-11 pm Saturday and Sunday. JACKRABBIT COFFEE BAR 830 SW 6th Ave., 503-412-1800, gojackrabbitgo.com. 7 am-10 pm daily.

DOWNTOWN

HOSTEL CAFE 1810 NW Glisan St., 503-417-8143, hostelcafepdx.com. 7 am-midnight Sunday-Thursday, 7 am-1 am Friday and Saturday. FUSE BAR 36 SW 3rd Ave., 503-893-5762, fusebarpdx.com. 8 am-5 pm and 8 pm-2 am Friday and Saturday.

COFFEE TIME 712 NW 21st Ave., 503-497-1090, coffeetimepdx.com. 7 am-midnight daily.

WORLD CUP COFFEE & TEA (Inside Powellâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s City of Books) 1005 W Burnside St., 503-228-4651, ext. 1233, worldcupcoffee.com. 9 am-11 pm daily.

PIED COW COFFEEHOUSE 3244 SE Belmont St., 503-230-4866. 4 pm-midnight Monday-Thursday, 4 pm-1 am Friday, noon-midnight Saturday and Sunday.

WILL AMETTE WEEK

OUTER WESTSIDE

decorous flourish of residential and urban largesse bordering 8 miles of forest, this part of Portland remains the natural habitat for self-made semi-tycoons and the black sheep of the manor born, but is best known as a breeding ground for the leaps of faith that 25 years ago transformed global perceptions of Puddletown. This was where, ’round Goose Hollow, a twinkly publican somehow captured the mayor’s office. Where the Dandy Warhols scouted Slabtown bohemians and Art Alexakis bought a new life in the West Hills. This is where Stalin’s granddaughter opened a curio shop. Most notably, Northwest Portland was first to take advantage of the civic shift from backward hometown to prized destination. If that bloom’s somewhat fallen from the rose, the area simply found its footing years before downtown started sprouting hotels and the Pearl embraced roiling reinvention. The peculiar character of the Outer Westside—a smooth hybrid of baked-in eccentricities and shambling joie de vivre—never changed. Unbeholden to the myths of Old Portland and no longer spearheading the New, Northwest waits to see what comes next.

BY JAY HORTON A Willamette Week correspondent since freelancers held mount and longspear, I’ve lived in a dozen places across the city and written for twice as many local publications. My happiest years were spent up Nob Hill writing band blurbs for a late paper devoted to a live music scene the quadrant did not possess—which taught me the rewards of searching deep within forgotten neighborhoods. I’d never before considered a career as a finder, but it beats the alternative. NEIGHBORHOOD NOTES If you’ve ever watched an episode of The Simpsons, you’ll recognize several Northwest Portland street signs that inspired the names of Portland native Matt Groening’s characters. Don’t forget to look up above Industrial Northwest at the formidable Montgomery Park sign for C. Montgomery Burns’ namesake. In Gus Van Sant’s 1989 film, Drugstore Cowboy, the first scene was filmed in a pharmacy on Northwest 21st and Glisan. The pharmacy still sits on that corner, but now it’s a bar and grill.

JAPANESE GARDENS | Sam Gehrke

THE PICKS WHERE TO GRAB A CUP OF JOE, BUY WEED, WALK YOUR POOCH, AND PICK UP GROCERIES.

COMMISSARY CAFE 15 NW 19th Ave. Suite A commissarycafe.com

LA CANNAISSEUR 10700 NW St. Helens Road lacannaisseur.com

22 BELOW 1728 SW Jefferson St. my22below.com

JST SEAFOOD MARKET 1703 NW 16th Ave.

G O O S E H O L L O W/ WEST BURNSIDE WALK PAST THE UNBROKEN STRETCHES of graying walk-ups and drearily ill-conceived murals. Glance inside the passable restaurants trading on regulars’ memories and weathered taprooms continually revamped to post-collegiate tastes. In sharp contrast to the self-conscious flourishes of “metropolitan” panache downtown, the area’s embrace of the dowdier urban elements feels weirdly reminiscent of an actual city while tempering rent hikes and quelling gentrification. Somewhat miraculously, the area connecting the West End and Nob Hill has been left largely unchanged the past few decades, but developers ogling the Hotel deLuxe renovation remain ever poised to transform Goose Hollow into foie gras. Corri Anne

EAT THE RINGSIDE

2165 W Burnside St., 503-223-1513, ringsidesteakhouse.com. Dinner-late nightly.

A lovingly maintained throwback to the heyday of red meat, brown liquor and white heavyweights, the tradition-steeped steak house’s chief pleasures have scarcely changed since the days of Mad Men: prime cuts of beef worth every hardened artery and drained wallet. Pro tip: Try the lounge very early or very late for steak bites and justly beloved onion rings at yesteryear’s prices. $$$-$$$$.

ICHIZA KITCHEN & TEA HOUSE

1628 SW Jefferson St., 503-702-8374, ichizakitchen.com. Lunch and dinner Wednesday-Sunday.

Across a handful of tables hidden behind the painted curtain of a vegan cheese shop, Ichiza Kitchen tweaks traditional vegan Buddhist techniques approximating familiar flavorings for the faux meats fueling an array of pan-Asian dishes (“chicken” adobo, “shrimp” dumplings, “fishcake” and “pork belly”-topped ramen) paired with oolong teas (Duck Shit, Hairy Crab) whose labels make no more sense. $.

LEAKY ROOF

1538 SW Jefferson St., 503-222-3745, theleakyroof.com. Lunch and dinner Monday-Friday, brunch-dinner SaturdaySunday.

Lingering between the graying walk-ups south of Lincoln High since 1947, this former food cart soldiered on as ramshackle bar and grill of a working-class neighborhood until new owners built a gastropub around the hardwoods and fireplace. Now you can find vaguely British-inspired fare (the supra-spiced shepherd’s pie, especially) and a variety of Irish whiskeys claimed to be the city’s largest. $-$$. FINDER 2018

LITTLE RED’S BAKESHOP & CAFE

1401 SW Yamhill St., 503-706-8748, littleredsbakeshop.com. Breakfast and lunch TuesdaySunday.

After building her rep hawking pastries at farmers markets and crafting distinct wedding cakes for area couples, the gingerhaired founder of Little Red’s Bakeshop opened this cozy cafe where patrons can sip Water Avenue coffee while choosing from a sizable selection of sweet treats (cinnamon bun, glazed muffin, sugar cookies) and heartier fare (turkey cranberry swiss roll, prosciutto Gruyère croissant). $.

must

PROVIDENCE PARK 1844 SW Morrison St., 503-5535400, providenceparkpdx.com. As flat ratings and attendance threaten to capsize every female pro league, the Portland Thorns averaged more fans than 16 NBA and MLB teams during last year’s second title-winning run. The Timbers, meanwhile, survived nearly two decades’ inactivity to emerge as victors of a sustainable American league with colors, songs and deranged lumberjack mascot unchanged. The grounds now known as Providence Park—home to Portland’s first recorded soccer game on a field in 1893; site of Pele’s last competitive match almost a century later—waited a long time for the championships, but Soccer City USA has always depended on a particularly blind faith.

DRINK THE CHEERFUL BULLPEN

1730 SW Taylor St., 503-222-3063, cheerfulbullpen.com.

GOOSE HOLLOW INN

A holdover from the decades when minor league baseball ruled Portland summers, the old Bullpen became part of the Cheerful Tortoise empire a few years back, and the bar has since multiplied the flat-screens (they now stand at 21) and improved its pub grub. However, trivia nights and comedy showcases now threaten to overtake the big games.

1927 SW Jefferson St., 503-228-7010, goosehollowinn.com.

THE COMMODORE LOUNGE

DRIFTWOOD ROOM

Few expected the famously booze-soaked dive to survive the loss of its former location, but this newly expanded lounge has thrived as a day drinker’s oasis with a separate pool-’n’-jukebox room and pinball corridor. While the lights seem a bit brighter these days, a liquor selection hiding boutique distilleries among the cut-rate hooch justifies visibility.

A windowless jewel box of fanciful tippling and gilded comfort-food specials at pennies a serving each happy hour, the Driftwood Room inside Hotel deLuxe may have been renovated alongside its surrounding boutique hotel, but a regular clientele of genteel bohemians and gracefully aging West Hills couples hold sway in the sumptuous booths.

1650 W Burnside St., 503-224-7606.

A Reuben and brew on the benches outside the Goose Hollow Inn—the iconic pub opened by legendary mayor Bud Clark a half-century ago that has been credited with repopularizing the neighborhood’s moniker—is an unquestionable rite of Portland passage. 729 SW 15th Ave., 503-820-2076, hoteldeluxeportland.com/food-drink.

OUTER WESTSIDE

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OUTER WESTSIDE

SHOP

FANTASY FOR ADULTS ONLY

ARTISTS REPERTORY THEATRE

1703 W Burnside St., 503-295-6969, fantasyforadultsonly.com.

As westside erotica parlors went the way of travel agents and video stores, Fantasy found new life serving the fashion-forward edge of fetish garb. Alongside a femalefriendly smattering of sex toys, the brightly lit boutique has assembled a staggering cavalcade of tawdry (doughnut lingerie) and artisanal (painted parasols) accoutrements to outfit every cop domme, sexy gaucho or Eyes Wide Shut-themed party guest.

FAR POST SOCCER SUPPLY

825 SW 14th Ave., 503-295-6875, farpostsoccersupply.com

Outfitting devotees of the beautiful game for a quarter-century—well before the dawn of the Thorns or the Timbers’ rebirth—Far Post’s ad-emblazoned main store services fans with replica jerseys (Adidas, Nike, Puma, Joma) but aims squarely at the player, with a locally unrivaled supply of uniforms, balls, equipment, and indoor and outdoor boots.

HAMMER + VINE

2190 W Burnside St., 503-224-9678, hammerandvine.com

Nestled amid the foundation of a centuryold brick apartment building and awash in greenery, Portland’s self-styled “curious plant & terrarium shop” contains a continually blossoming nursery (air plants, carnivorous plants, succulents) and all required to start and supply every style and shape (pendant, light bulb, alien kidney) of terraria.

PORTLAND GEAR

627 SW 19th Ave., 503-437-4439, portlandgear.com.

Borne upon Marcus Harvey’s powerful Instagram presence (the 300,000-plus strong @ Portland account) and abiding affection for his hometown, the online apparel company finally opened a brick-and-mortar storefront two years ago around the corner from the well-traveled corporate clubhouse to hawk civic-branded tees, tanks, hats, hoodies and no end of jerseys.

SCRAP PDX

1736 SW Alder St., 503-294-0769, scrappdx.org.

The former Schoolhouse Community Reuse Action Project dropped the acronym when moving across town, but the nonprofit hasn’t stopped diverting landfill-bound detritus toward creative pursuit. Find literal tons of donated goods on shelves divided into office supplies, costume materials, and odds and ends (skateboard wheels, athletic trophies, a lifetime’s supply of Popsicle sticks) requiring a more artistic bent.

1515 SW Morrison St., 503-241-1278, artistsrep.org.

Despite ongoing plans to sell half of the theater’s block-sized structure and a $7 million gift from an anonymous donor that earned national headlines, Artists Rep remains committed to presenting a provocative blend of original voices and newly interpreted classic plays. Among the 2018-19 offerings are Lucas Hnath’s A Doll’s House, Part 2, and a comedic Richard III-in-high-school revamp, Teenage Dick.

FOURTEEN30 CONTEMPORARY

1501 SW Market St., 503-236-1430, fourteen30.com. Closed Sunday-Thursday.

Christened after the original location beneath the Hawthorne Bridge, the austere white interiors of Fourteen30 Contemporary invite works from visiting artists while providing a forum for both established and emerging local talents via solo shows (Melanie Flood’s spring show of anti-consumerist art photography, Mirror Mirror) and more fanciful group installations like 2015’s teen girl-themed Froot Loops.

INTERNATIONAL ROSE TEST GARDEN 400 SW Kingston Ave.

Initiated as a means of preserving rare species from the carnage wrought by the First World War, adored by senior groups and wedding photographers, the country’s oldest public rose test garden has been continuously operated since 1917 with more than 10,000 bushes blossoming each year between April and October.

19TH HOLE/TOP DOWN: ROOFTOP CINEMA

Southwest 15th Avenue and Yamhill Street, 503-2192094, hoteldeluxeportland.com. Closed MondayTuesday, September-April.

As soon as the sun comes out, the minigolf pop-up across the street from the Hotel deLuxe opens for guests and residents alike to play the fun-sized nine-hole course while sampling from more than 75 craft beers. For a more relaxed summertime activity, the NW Film Center’s Top Down: Rooftop Cinema screens locally made shorts, old Hollywood favorites, and cult classics atop the hotel every Thursday in August.

UMAMI CAFE AT PORTLAND JAPANESE GARDEN 611 SW Kingston Ave., 503-223-1321, japanesegarden.org/umami-cafe.

Among last year’s additions to Washington Park’s Japanese Garden as part of the $33 million Cultural Village designed by Kengo Kuma—the celebrated architect chosen to oversee Tokyo’s Olympic stadium—Umami Cafe gently flows down into the surrounding valley for captivating views of the gorgeous backdrop enjoyed alongside the hojicha or matcha tea and sweets from local businesses Mio’s Delectables, Yume Confections, and Oyatsupan Bakers.

WILL AMETTE WEEK

Serving Portlan d since 1954

Join us for Afternoon Tea. Stay for Dessert. Aft ern oon Te a Th urs -Su n fro m 3 pm | C o ck t ai l s n i gh t l y a t Dr i f t wo o d Ro o m | Ho t el de L ux e | 729 S W 15 t h | ho teldelux e.co m

FINDER 2018

OUTER WESTSIDE

NOB HILL TRENDY-THIRD. SNOB HILL. YUPTOWN. Entering the millennium as the singular destination of traveling foodies and fashionistas, Northwest 21st and 23rd avenues may look like the same glittering showcase for a small city’s cosmopolitan yearnings, but the old nicknames no longer fit quite so snugly. Star chefs hone their craft all over town these days, and those transplanted culinary fads the avenues once introduced—bento, pizza by the slice, farm-to-table cuisine—no longer feel all that revolutionary. While the avenues still host new shops from exciting young designers, Portland has become, in every way, a boutique sort of city. Success breeds complacency, and although other areas would reap the rewards of civic marketability, the Alphabet District was first to capitalize.

EAT

must

ESCAPE FROM NEW YORK PIZZA 622 NW 23rd Ave., 503-227-5423, efnypizza.net. Lunch and dinner daily.

Though Portland’s first slice-driven pizzeria finally began accepting credit cards (and offering salads), little else has changed about Escape From New York. Customer service still aspires to the heights of Big Apple brusqueness, while signature slices remain foldable delivery systems for a nonebettered mélange of hearty sauce, blessedly limited toppings, and cheese far heavier in the hand than the mouth. $.

KEN’S ARTISAN BAKERY

KUNG POW!

Well before becoming the baker of choice for Portland’s fine dining maestros, the James Beard Award-winning Ken Forkish first fired up the ovens of this artisan bakeshop on Thanksgiving 2001. He fostered an ever-rising local love for rustic grains and boulangerie that has blossomed to include seasonally appropriate tarts, heart-stopping croissants and sliced loaves. $.

A loving interpretation of trad Chinese-American cuisine as stylish and playful as its moniker suggests, Kung Pow! serves up all your grandparents’ faves—Mongolian beef, lemon chicken, wonton soup—streamlined, supercharged, and well-oiled. Most dishes resemble a spicier permutation of the Sichuan menu from older, tamer sister restaurant Shandong, but especially paired with one of the bar’s zodiac-themed cocktails, KP!’s enlightened comfort staples shouldn’t be missed. $

338 NW 21st Ave., 503-248-2202, kensartisan.com. Breakfast-tea time daily.

KIM JONG SMOKEHOUSE

413 NW 21st Ave., 971-373-8990, kimjongsmokehouse.com. Lunch and dinner daily.

A collaborative effort among Kim Jong Grillin cartmaster Han Ly Hwang; Langbaan, Hat Yai and PaaDee founder Earl Ninsom; and BJ Smith, the Top Chef veteran whose late restaurant Smokehouse Tavern forms the bones of this star-dappled, ahem, fusion, KJS serves just two dishes: steamed buns and bibimbap rice bowls. Still, with the range of sauces (try the hot, tangy gochujang) and barbecue-intensive add-ons (pulled pork, short ribs), a full life could be spent sampling potential variants, here or at the Kim Jong Smokehouse in Pine Street Market. $-$$.

Justin Katigbak

OUTER WESTSIDE

500 NW 21st Ave., 503-208-2173, kungpowpdx.com. Lunch and dinner daily.

PALEY’S PLACE BISTRO & BAR

1204 NW 21st Place, 503-243-2403, paleysplace.net. Dinner nightly.

A piano prodigy and best-selling cookbook author from the former Soviet Union, Vitaly Paley effectively created a decent chunk of Portland’s culinary landscape from scratch— instilling a deep respect for local ingredients and seasonal menus, cultivating a chef tree that continues to flower—and although its trademark Gallic-Northwestern cuisine has lately been enlivened by Russian influences, his eponymous restaurant remains a cherished foodie temple after nearly a quartercentury of consistent brilliance. $$$.

ONE IMAGINARY GIRL 2330 NW Westover Road, 669233-1487, oneimaginarygirl. com. Closed Monday-Tuesday. Among Portland’s most celebrated young designers, garnering features in Marie Claire and British Vogue and a stint as a contestant on Project Runway, Sarah Donofrio recently launched her own signature fashion label while opening a retail shop under the same name. Though the boutique does includes tastefully chosen selections from a handful of like-minded designers, One Imaginary Girl has a playful, distinct, ’80s-inspired aesthetic famed for eye-catching colors, hand-drawn prints, and unconventional materials. Donofrio, an occasional indie-rock DJ for Oregon Public Broadcasting, utilized bits of vinyl records she’d smashed for her spring 2017 collection.

THE WAITING ROOM

2327 NW Kearney St., 503-477-4380, thewaitingroompdx.com. Dinner Tuesday-Saturday, brunch Sunday.

Opening within the South Beach-colored reclaimed Victorian where four restaurants had closed in about as many years, the pair of former Red Star chefs behind the Waiting Room appear to have finally cracked the code for filling this wispy off-avenue space. Serve heaping helpings of juicily crisped Louisiana fried chicken, arrange supradistinct toppings (Midori, caviar and white soy?) for oysters on the half shell, and douse liberally with sparkling wine. $-$$. WILL AMETTE WEEK

Sarah Donofrio, clothing designer and founder of One Imaginary Girl

DRINK

MUU-MUU’S

612 NW 21st Ave., 503-223-8169, muumuus.net.

A wellspring of stylish bonhomie spilling out toward the sidewalk tables beside Cinema 21 for decades, Muu-Muu’s acts as perfect pairing with the sainted indie repertory house, with a global comfort-food slate (enchiladas, pad thai, Cajun penne) and a swank, sleekened décor (irreverent but not kitschy, chic yet never trend-hopping) that presaged the hipster bars while evading their worst pretensions.

NOB HILL BAR & GRILL ABBEY BAR & BOTTLE SHOP 716 NW 21st Ave., theabbeybar.com.

Though the Slabtown iteration boasts a larger space and greater selection of brews drawn from across the Old World, we still prefer the original for its obsessive fixation on the high point of the low countries: a half-dozen rotating drafts and more than 300 bottles (les bières belges) stored at the correct temperatures, served in appropriate glassware, and paired with the proper cuisi…well, frites.

M BAR

417 NW 21st Ave., 503-228-6614.

A dimly lit sunken boite smaller than most competitors’ walk-ins, M Bar spent years best known as the after-dark calling of Sterling Roasters’ teensy daytime space. While the indie baristas recently jumped across the street for more spacious pastures, their wine-soaked alter ego shows no sign of outgrowing the single-digit-capacity clientele that informs an apres-cabaret feel and affords the hyper-eclectic, budget-friendly red, white and sparkling glassfuls chosen daily during its owner’s final march toward master sommelier.

937 NW 23rd Ave., 503-274-9616, nobhillbar.com.

Though the weekend deluge of frat packs and bachelorette parties has noticeably reshaped neighborhood tavern culture, sheer bloody-minded continuity has propelled the Nob Hill Bar & Grill unchanged. Bickering swine sculptures still guard the front door. Old men waste summertime afternoons dazedly watching ballgames. And cheeseburgers (regularly touted among Portland’s best) are still fried on the flat-top for prices criminally cheap.

THE POPE HOUSE BOURBON LOUNGE

2075 NW Glisan St., 503-222-1056, popehouselounge.com.

A shrine to the virtues of aged brown liquors assembled within a picturesque Victorian, Pope House simmers New South flavorings amid the bones of Old Portland along an expansive patio made for the self-conscious drawl. If PH’s collection of small-batch regional whiskeys proves more consistently rewarding of attention than its Dixie-fied pub grub, avoid the binge-ready completism of its “Bourbon Derby,” for old times there are not not forgotten.

M BAR | Justin Katigbak

FINDER 2018

OUTER WESTSIDE

SHOP ARC’TERYX

605 NW 23rd Ave., 503-808-1859, arcteryx.com.

Opening four years ago as the third (and largest) North American outlet for the Vancouver, B.C., outdoor-oriented clothing line, the nearly 3,000-square-foot shop stocks a wide array of hiking-, climbing- and snowboarding-related sportswear, resembling an upmarket North Face yet sufficiently rugged for the U.S. Marine Corps to contract backpack designs. The store also hosts film screenings, naturalist slide shows and, last winter, an in-store 360-degree virtual reality tour through Canadian backcountry.

DAEDALUS BOOKS

2074 NW Flanders St., 503-274-7742. Closed Sunday.

A charmingly rumpled bookstore nestled just off 21st Avenue, Daedalus has served Portland as the scholarly book lover’s paradise for more than 20 years. Although the shop does carry new titles, the overwhelming majority of its stock can be found in a carefully curated inventory whose marked emphasis on art, music, poetry, history, linguistics, philosophy and literary studies carries no airs of pretense.

GEM SET LOVE

720 NW 23rd Ave., 503-226-0629, gemsetlove.com. Closed Monday.

816 NW 23rd Ave., 503-290-7479, willleathergoods.com.

This “Family House” flagship of the Eugene-based brand launched decades ago by former grindhouse star Bill Adler stocks found items and artisanal bags made from globally reclaimed textiles alongside an enormous breadth of finely tooled leather accessories (wallets, totes, belts, satchels, dog collars, messenger bags)—all blessed with a lifetime guarantee and complimentary monogram embossing in-store while you browse.

CITY MARKET NW

735 NW 21st Ave., 503-221-3007, citymarketnw.com.

A mélange of specialty shops that blends the framework of European markets with the brightly lit aesthetic of a Universal CityWalk, this Northwest mainstay brings together organic fruits and vegetables from Raw Raw Produce, Pastaworks’ housemade specialties, locally sourced meats from Chop Butchery, and Newman’s fishmonger.

THE YO! STORE

Enchanting curious visitors and seasoned bauble-ophiles since 1994 (formerly as Gilt), Gem Set Love boasts a staggering array of estate jewelry—including the Northwest’s largest collection of antique engagement rings and wedding bands—as well as an expertly curated collection of small studio designers and an in-house line crafted by local artisans from recycled gems and metals.

935 NW 19th Ave., 503-841-5879, yoportland.com. Closed Monday.

OH BABY

PHIL’S MEAT MARKET & DELICATESSEN

722 NW 23rd Ave., 503-274-4190, ohbabylingerieshops.com.

An intimate, comfortable shopping experience within a sumptuous, plush environment, Oh Baby celebrates the indulgence of luxury undergarments. Stocking rarefied lines from sought-after designers, the boutique provides a more extensive range of sizes than stores far larger, while easing customer concerns through regular Prosecco-fueled pop-ups and fitting parties.

WILL LEATHER GOODS

OUTER WESTSIDE

After five years helming Yo Vintage, a goto destination for the budget fashionista, British émigré Sarah Radcliffe took a cue from losing her lease and starting a family to open the Yo! Store: a larger selection of both new and pre-owned pieces that includes children’s lines and housewares.

GO UPTOWN BILLIARDS

120 NW 23rd Ave., 503-226-6909, uptownbilliards.com. Closed Sunday-Monday.

Hidden above Crossroads Trading on a strictly utilitarian stretch of Northwest 23rd, Uptown Billiards resembles a private club left open for anyone stumbling across the second-story lounge. Despite the eight 4-by-8-foot Brunswick replications—plus a pair of 4½-by-9-foot gold-felt “championship” pool tables in the library—plenty of regulars skip the games to belly up to the bar: a century-old marvel once frequented by John Wayne.

CAMERAWORK GALLERY

2255 NW Northrup St., 503-701-5347, thecameraworkgallery.org. Closed Sunday.

Established in 1970 with the support of legendary shutterbug Minor White, Camerawork now stands as the nation’s longestrunning continuously operational fine art photography gallery. The intimate space, located inside Peterson Hall on the campus of Linfield Nursing School, presents a varied slate of shows, with recent exhibitions that included National Geographic photographer Randy Olson’s landfill portraits and Camerawork curator and storied photojournalist Ken Hawkins’ shots of Jimmy Carter.

17 NW 23rd Place, 503-224-9541, philsmeatmarket.com. Closed Sunday.

Phil’s Meat Market may be best known for char-broiled chicken skewers and rice— dearly departed founder Phil Mosley essentially introduced the town to bento—but regular customers skip past the outdoor grill to haunt the meat counter (Kobe beef hot dogs!), deli case (salami and Swiss Philwich!), and varied, voluminous wine cellar.

THE YO! STORE | Emily Joan Greene

WILL AMETTE WEEK

616 NW 21st Ave., 503-223-4515, cinema21.com.

As long as this treasured indie theater sits nestled in this stretch of bars on Northwest 21st, embittered eastsiders will keep making time for Nob Hill. And following a comprehensive remodel and newfound identity as the venue for locally born and filmed premieres (including Jean-Marc Vallee’s Wild and Gus Van Sant’s recent biopic of cartoonist John Callahan, Don’t Worry, He Won’t Get Far on Foot), Cinema 21 isn’t going anywhere.

You Have Style, Shouldn’t Your Apartment?

VINTAGE APARTMENTS LOVINGLY RESTORED

• Golden hardwoods • walk-in closets

FLOAT SHOPPE

• hiGh ceilinGs

1515 NW 23rd Ave., 503-719-4743, floatshoppe.com.

Even if you’re in the middle of a bustling shopping district, floating atop a thousand pounds of Epsom salts dissolved into 94-degree water for an hour and a half is a sure path to meditative bliss. The Float Shoppe houses four personal (UV-disinfected) flotation rooms: a sealed Tranquility chamber, an expansive Floatarium, a colorfully lit Nautilus tank, and an open pool-shaped Infinity Room.

NEW, UPSCALE APARTMENTS CAREFULLY DESIGNED

• Balconies • washer/dryer • GaraGe ParkinG

UPTOWN STAMP SHOW

2373 NW Westover Road, 503-444-7119, uptownstampshow.com. Sunday-Wednesday by appointment only.

An amateur philatelist long before he became a legendary litigator, famed trial lawyer David Markowitz (Andre Agassi, Will Vinton, and Cover Oregon among his past clients) intended Uptown Stamp to replicate the experience of an actual show. One table is eternally reserved for a rotating selection from visiting dealers, and a vast inventory is for sale, from global rarities to six figures of U-pick stamps priced at a dime apiece.

kbcmgmt.com

Classic or New • Live in Style with KBC

We know beer.

photo: thomas teal

UPTOWN BILLIARDS | Justin Katigbak

CINEMA 21

w week.com/tag/beer

FINDER 2018

OUTER WESTSIDE

EAT

SLABTOWN

BREKEN KITCHEN

1800 NW 16th Ave., 503-841-6359, brekenkitchen.com. Breakfast and lunch Monday-Friday.

BORROWING ITS MONIKER from the heaping mounds of lumber-mill bark gathered by poorer households for effective but smoky fuel, the stretch of Northwest beneath I-405 lay dormant even as adjoining Nob Hill and the Pearl emerged as the city’s poshest commercial districts——industrial lofts and bluecollar bar and grills separated by wide expanses of concrete vacancy. Beyond Radio Cabs circling their HQ, Slabtown streets routinely lay deserted, resembling an abandoned New Wave video shoot. Then the gods awoke. Nobody argues the recent bustle of mixed-use development wasn’t sorely needed, but open swaths of pavement—much like slabs of cut-rate firewood—tend to surrender much of their romance once potential has been lit.

Just a scone’s throw from a Montessori school playground, the bright, airy interiors of Breken serve as home away from homeroom for umpteen Northwest moms knocking back Water Avenue coffee or Steven Smith teas. But a diverse swath of Slabtown regulars also consider the Kitchen their own, relying on it for fabulous, affordable breakfast sandwiches, tomato soup and daunting slabs of lasagna. $.

FISH SAUCE

407 NW 17th Ave., 503-227-8000, fishsaucepdx.com. Lunch and dinner Monday-Friday, dinner Saturday.

Back afloat after a tumultuous summer that saw Ben Bui’s flagship enterprise ravaged by fire just as he readied the launch of eastside outpost Short Round, Fish Sauce once again draws a crowd of devotees to the Vietnamese lounge’s Mason jar-lit communal table for inventive cocktails (designed by Kask, Teardrop and La Moule vet Tommy Klus) and Southeast Asian pub-grub staples borrowed from Bui’s mother’s own recipes. $.

GASTRO MANIA

1986 NW Pettygrove St., 503-689-3794, gastromaniapdx.com. Breakfast-lunch MondaySaturday.

A former food cart helmed by classically trained Mediterranean chef Alex Nenchev and justly famed for its foie gras burger, Gastro Mania was pushed toward its current teensy lunch counter space where regulars congregate for Portland’s best gyros: ginormous marvels packed with salmon, chicken, veggies, tuna steak or flat-top-grilled lamb. $.

must

THE OLD PORTLAND 1433 NW Quimby St., 503-234-0865, theoldportland.com. Closed Sunday-Tuesday. Built on the disused office space of his band’s studio/ Factory, Dandy Warhols frontman Courtney TaylorTaylor uncorked the Old Portland in late 2016 to sparkling reviews. Open only 25 hours a week with a guest capacity not much greater—monthly showcases by touring artists are essentially family affairs—the bar has just one bartender on staff pouring just three rotating wines by the glass. The bottle list continues to grow, alongside a collection of relics led by last year’s acquisition of early Portlandia’s jewel in the crown: the weathered marquee from legendary club Satyricon.

OUTER WESTSIDE

Sam Gehrke

WILL AMETTE WEEK

Aaron Barnet t , chef and founder of St . Jack

SOLO CLUB

2110 NW Raleigh St., 971-254-9806, thesoloclub.com.

A patio-adjacent extension of beloved Besaw’s, this coffee shop and patisserie by day and lounge by night is renowned for drinks named after Tom Waits songs and built around the bar’s staggering collection (curated by the Meadow’s Mark Bitterman) of bitters and amari.

YUR’S BAR & GRILL

717 NW 16th Ave., 503-224-0160, yursbarandgrill.com.

Emily Joan Greene

DRINK LE HAPPY

1011 NW 16th Ave., 503-226-1258, lehappy.com. Dinner-late Monday-Friday, brunch-late Saturday, brunch Sunday.

Opened under the shadow of I-405 around the turn of the millennium, Le Happy brought a spark of Gallic whimsy to Slabtown’s then-deserted streets through delicacies sweet (Spectac’s Nutella, banana and Grand Marnier flambe crepe) and savory (Le Cinq’s five cheeses) when its neighborhood was neither. The creperie’s cocktail designs are similarly playful, and the kids’ Le Happy Meal arrives with a toy. $.

PLEASE LOUISE

1505 NW 21st Ave., 503-946-1853, please-louise.com. Lunch and dinner Monday-Friday, dinner SaturdaySunday.

Opened two years ago by the founder of Breakside Brewery, Please Louise was instantly embraced by area residents long desiring an enlightened neighborhood pizzeria and became a citywide destination soon after the first pies emerged from its 900-degree deck oven brimming with fresh ingredients and a delicate “NEOpolitan” crunch. $$.

ST. JACK

1610 NW 23rd Ave., 503-360-1281, stjackpdx.com. Dinner nightly.

Starting life as a homey Southeast eatery more befitting the rustic Lyons bouchons whence chef (and Chopped finalist) Aaron Barnett drew inspiration, St. Jack’s sleek newish restaurant and bar allows ample space to sample Portland’s finest and most adventuresome French cuisine, as well as haute takes on trashier (Espelette-peppered pork rinds) homegrown specialties. $$$$$$$. FINDER 2018

BULL RUN DISTILLING

2259 NW Quimby St., 503-224-3483, bullrundistillery.com. Closed Monday-Tuesday.

Trailing a background as an itinerant winemaker, McMenamins brewer and House Spirits co-founder, Lee Medoff led the Bull Run ownership team into the murkier world of brown liquors distilled from Oregon barley and their namesake aquifer. Visit the barrel-house tasting room for flights of arguably the state’s best bourbons and whiskeys, as well as Medoyeff vodka and other small-batched limited bottlings otherwise unavailable.

THE LOMPOC TAVERN

1620 NW 23rd Ave., 503-288-3996, lompocbrewing.com.

In a fan-servicing reboot of the local chain’s flagship enterprise, this most recent iteration of Northwest’s granddaddy brewpub (formerly known as Old Lompoc and New Old Lompoc) feels both utterly modern yet fully beholden to the original spirit. As gleaming mixed-use developments grew up around the bar, ownership burnished interiors, but the taste of the signature beers hasn’t changed at all.

PAYMASTER LOUNGE

1020 NW 17th Ave., 503-943-2780, paymasterlounge.com.

Taking the name of vintage signage inherited from its building’s previous tenants, Paymaster might seem a bit misleading—little of the bar’s youngish, local-heavy clientele is likely to know check-writing services ever existed—but this oblique bit of stylish whimsy isn’t the worst advertisement for a comfortable lounge featuring liquored slushies, a patio pool table and a paperback- and VHS tape-stocked vending machine.

Though the clientele now trends more to condo-dwelling creatives than cabbies from the neighboring Radio Cab, Yur’s dimly lit barroom retains the divier atmosphere of Slabtown’s blue-collar roots: free popcorn, stiff drinks, opening hours nudging dawn— all while indulging the rewards of rising fortune. Behind one door, a life-size Moe mural beckons you along a dingy alley. Around the other, a sumptuous back TV lounge features broad leather couches.

SHOP FOLLY

1005 NW 16th Ave., 503-954-1334, follypdx.com. Closed Sunday-Monday.

An adorable one-stop boutique assembled by founder Sarah Bibb, whose locally produced clothing line comprises nearly half the frocks on display, Folly stocks a constantly rotating array of selections from top local designers as well as jewelry, candles and decorous accessories chosen with care by the ever-present proprietress.

PRO PHOTO SUPPLY

1112 NW 19th Ave., 503-241-1112, prophotosupply.com. Closed Sunday.

For over 35 years Oregon’s premier photography shop for professionals and amateur enthusiasts alike (there’s a nearby full-service lab for the former and a rent-to-own program for the latter), Pro Photo Supply employs friendly sales reps famously well-versed in the vast inventory of new and used, digital or analog cameras, gear, lenses, film, paper and darkroom equipment.

VERSAILLES GARDENS & POMARIUS NURSERY

1920 NW 18th Ave., 503-516-9487, pomariusnursery.com.

An oasis grown along a former train yard just west of the Fremont Bridge, Pomarius cultivates a cosmopolitan breadth of rarefied plants, including orchids, bonsai, giant agaves and boxwood topiary. OUTER WESTSIDE

FREAKYBUTTRUE PECULIARIUM | Rosie Struve

FREAKYBUTTRUE PECULIARIUM

2234 NW Thurman St., 503-227-3164, peculiarium.com.

Meet Bigfoot and Krampus! Taste the wormtopped ice cream! Brave the haunted doll house! Bury yourself alive! Photo-op the reverse-engineered alien autopsy! Equal parts outsider art gallery and threadbare curio shop, the Peculiarium exhibits a funsized hodgepodge of the bizarre that promises budget thrills as a veritable roadside attraction for side-street wanderers

COHO PRODUCTIONS

2257 NW Raleigh St., 503-220-2646, cohoproductions.org.

POLARIS DANCE THEATRE

1826 NW 18th Ave., 503-380-5472, polarisdance.org. Closed Sunday.

Renowned for admirably inclusive training programs encompassing underprivileged youth and differently abled students, Polaris incorporates a similarly diverse breadth of influences (hip-hop, Latin, African) on the stage of the nonprofit’s newish black-box theater. This sleekly renovated former warehouse boasts enough space for aerial movement while still granting audiences enviably intimate seating for athletic, innovative stage performances.

A breeding ground for such notable local companies as Profile Theatre and Third Rail Repertory, the Collaborative Homegrown model furnishes distinct voices the support necessary to mount Drammy-winning productions. CoHo’s 23rd season promises a typically eclectic string of shows, such as the harrowing social justice melodrama Jesus Hopped the “A” Train, trenchant political satire The Taming, and abstruse, zombie-fied parable Pontypool.

COMEDYSPORTZ PORTLAND

1963 NW Kearney St., 503-236-8888, portlandcomedy.com. Closed Sunday-Thursday.

Portland’s longest-running show has been spinning laughs from Whose Line Is It Anyway?-styled “competitive” improv for over 20 years. Two teams of comics are pitted against each other in whimsically refereed scattershot bouts of audience-fueled scenes, songs and shtick..

OUTER WESTSIDE

Courtesy of Polaris Dance Theatre

WILL AMETTE WEEK

Voted

Best Organic Cannabis Selection 2018 And finalist for Best Dispensary, and Best Budtender

3 Years in a row!

Thank you to our amazing customers for valuing what we are passionate about!

Open 10-10 daily 1780 NW Marshall St., Portland 503-477-4430 Instagram: MindRitePDX_ Facebook/Twitter: MindRitePDX

#GetYourMindRite FINDER 2018

OUTER WESTSIDE

NORTHWEST THURMAN AND NORTHWEST INDUSTRIAL DISTRICT A JUMBLED COLLECTION OF DISPARATE microhoods, these outer communities don’t quite mesh with the better-known districts. Nor do they have much in common beyond clashing narratives. Along the streets west of 23rd Avenue, folks starting families hope their neighborhood becomes the West Foothills, while a younger crowd envisions a sort of burgeoning Nob End. New Linnton homeowners think their properties lie just over the bridge from St. Johns; lifelong Linntonians believe themselves just down the road from St. Helens. The traditional denizens of industrial Northwest keep alive the dreams of the ’50s as current corporate overlords obsess over a ruthlessly workshopped now.

EAT ATAULA

1818 NW 23rd Place, 503-894-8904, ataulapdx.com. Dinner Tuesday-Sunday.

Incorporating Pacific Northwest ingredients to tweak traditional recipes while inspiring innovations sui generis, Ataula impresario Jose Chevas enlivened PDX tapas from the bottom. The Barcelona-born chef, a veteran of Michelin-starred kitchens on both sides of the Atlantic, splits attention between rarefied wonders of the Old World (jamon iberico) and playful next-gen experiments (goat cheese-’n’-chorizo Chupa Chups-like Xupa Xup) amid a paella-girded seasonal menu. $$-$$$.

INDUSTRIAL CAFE & SALOON

2572 NW Vaughn St., 503-227-7002, industrialcafepdx.com. Breakfast and lunch daily.

At this ironwork-bedecked fine diner, treat yourself to a house-cured pastrami or corned beef sandwich from the owners’ herd of grass-fed and -finished beef raised in nearby St. Helens. These sandwiches were good— and greasy—enough to make a cameo in Flavortown, on Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives. $-$$.

STEPPING STONE CAFE

2390 NW Quimby St., 503-222-1132, steppingstonecafe.com. Breakfast-dinner daily, breakfast-late Friday and Saturday.

The toy-strewn ceiling, acerbic service and whiskey-drenched Coffee Sumthin’ Sumthin’ may bring back the monied creatives, but heaping helpings of familiar fare (13-inch Mancakes) have given Stepping Stone new life. The Smothered Badass’ jalapeño gravy-drenched chicken-fried steak proved a sufficient lure to Food Network coverage; Man v. Food host Adam Richman lost his battle against the enormous flapjacks. You can too. $.

OUTER WESTSIDE

Rosie Struve

ST. HONORÉ BOULANGERIE

2335 NW Thurman St., sainthonorebakery.com. Breakfast-dinner daily.

Master baker Dominique Geulin first planted the clay oven for the flagship location of his mushrooming empire along Northwest 23rd’s fringes 15 years ago. Its moniker commemorates the patron saint of pastry chefs, giving it an atmosphere reflecting his Normandy boyhood and plenty of authenticity-steeped recipes for delicacies (tartes, choquettes, a hearty vol au vent) of buttery indulgence. $.

DRINK

must

SKYLINE RESTAURANT 1313 NW Skyline Blvd., 503286-4788, skylineburgers.com. High up the West Hills, one legacy fast-food stand has survived for 80plus years serving locally sourced, rotundity-assured, fiercely unreconstructed milkshakes and manholesized burgers once championed by James “Dean of American Cuisine” Beard as among the nation’s best. Skyline no longer offers grill-towindshield service—but, nudged up against the unknowable vastness of Forest Park, did carhops ever make sense? $.

CASA DIABLO

2839 NW St. Helens Road, 503-222-6600, casadiablo.com.

This vegan strip bar has been enshrined as an iconic testament to Portland weirdness ever since then-Newark Mayor and now-N.J. Sen. Cory Booker made national headlines tweet-talking a club dancer. While patrons do rave over the cruelty-free menu’s “beefy” stroganoff, most spend their $2 bills on the women doffing pleather and faux fur to test the limits of state law with skillful abandon. WILL AMETTE WEEK

It was in Dockside's dumpster that FBI agents discovered a piece of paper with notes about Nancy Kerrigan's practice schedule in Tonya Harding's handwriting.

Rosie Struve

DOCKSIDE SALOON & RESTAURANT

LIGHTHOUSE RESTAURANT & BAR

The tumble-down décor, pre-dawn opening hours and throwback prices at this Northwest Industrial locale still reflect a working man’s bar and grill serving eggs ’n’ bloody mary to generations of stevedores. Developers have completed a 300,000-square-foot office complex that surrounds the Dockside but have left the venerable tavern untouched. So it remains—an oasis of divey comforts hidden in the shadows of gentrification.

After lingering around the northwesternmost fringe of Portland for decades as a scuzzily charming pint stop along the scenic route to the coast, a tasteful yet massive reboot has turned the Lighthouse into a destination all its own. New ownership pried away the barnacles, expanded the taps, turned the kitchen over to a Woodsman Tavern sous chef, and polished the pearls of maritime kitsch ever drifting inside.

CRACKERJACKS PUB & EATERY

RAE’S LAKEVIEW LOUNGE

2047 NW Front Ave., 503-241-6433, docksidesaloon.com.

2788 NW Thurman St., 503-222-9069, crackerjackspub.com.

When service-industry veterans purchased this ’80s-era sports bar, they updated the menu with dinner salads worthy of the name and some of Portland’s better pub pizzas. But Crackerjacks only reveals its true prize via Jell-O shots. Through spring and summer, a sidewalk Hell-O Jell-O cart serves a singular selection of liquor-infused gelatin cups—with favorites like the PDX airport rug-mirroring “Carpet Munch.”

DRAGONFLY COFFEE HOUSE 2387 NW Thurman St., 503-224-7888, thedragonflycoffeehouse.com.

An adorable coffee shop, ideally outfitted for both neighborhood coffee klatch and home or office away from home or office, Dragonfly serves espresso, Jasmine Pearl teas, and an array of pastries with a wide selection of vegan and gluten-free alternatives.

FINDER 2018

10808 NW St. Helens Road, 503-240-8827, lighthousepdx.com.

1900 NW 27th Ave., 503-719-6494, raesportland.com.

Designed by the veteran consultant behind Doug Fir and Radio Room with a familiar spark of four-color whimsy, this stylish watering hole combines the well-worn elegance of a vintage nightspot with neighborhoodbar bonhomie—despite opening just six years ago outside of any real ’hood. The back bar plays with craft cocktail standards dating back to when a lake could actually be seen from the site’s expansive deck.

SHOP AUDUBON SOCIETY NATURE STORE 5151 NW Cornell Road, 503-292-6855, audubonportland.org/support/nature-store.

Near the entrance of the Audubon Society’s 150-acre wildlife sanctuary nudging Forest Park, the nonprofit’s Nature Store boasts the area’s finest selection of binoculars, telescopes and high-end optics for birders and creepers alike. Pass by the taxidermy exhibits, browse the backyard supplies, and grab a field guide to try identifying the feathered friends wetting their beaks outside the shop window.

BETSY & IYA

2403 NW Thurman St., 503-227-5482, betsyandiya.com.

A boutique as unfussily stunning as the handcrafted jewelry that bears its name, Betsy & Iya launched to showcase sterling silver and plated brass baubles designed by indie polymath Betsy Cross—and now acclaimed by tastemakers across the globe. The store’s inventory has expanded to feature an array of locally produced houseware, skin care and fragrances.

BOEDECKER CELLARS

2621 NW 30th Ave., 503-224-5778, boedeckercellars.com. Closed Monday-Tuesday.

One of the area’s first urban wineries, Boedecker Cellars utilizes Willamette Valley grapes and indigenous yeast and focuses almost exclusively on its acclaimed pinots noirs, but the founding couple’s decidedly different sensibilities resonate through rival “Athena” (heartier, spicier) and “Stewart” (delicate, red fruit-leaning) bottlings.

BULL IN CHINA

2304 NW Savier St., 971-888-4085, bullinchinapdx.com. Closed Monday-Tuesday.

Opened by a trio of veteran PDX mixologists desiring barware both stylish and sturdy, Bull in China produced signature hand-blown glasses that soon became the weapon of choice among the city’s craft cocktail clique while enduring heavy usage at spots like Kask, Victoria and Expatriate. This retail spot inside the Aria Gin distillery hosts the entire Bull in China lineup—plus vintage glassware and recipe guides.

LINNTON FEED & SEED

10920 NW St. Helens Road, 503-286-1291, linntonfeed.com.

This Linnton fixture for farm supplies since 1946 emphasizes local, organic, quality goods. See fellow shoppers prepping for their first urban micro-farm as well as casual gardeners and pet owners more likely to buy none-more-fresh eggs than baby chicks. OUTER WESTSIDE

GO BELLA ORGANIC

16205 NW Gillihan Road, 503-621-9545, bellaorganic.com. Closed November-May.

Among the Portland area’s most popular U-pick fields throughout the summertime, Bella Organic—25 acres of mixed berrygathering, plus wine tastings and a petting zoo—doesn’t truly blossom until October, when the Sauvie Island family farm unfurls both timeless traditions (hayride to the pumpkin patch) and seasonal thrills (a Damian Lillard-shaped corn maze).

CATFISH LOU’S

2460 NW 24th Ave., 503-227-5384, catfishlous.com. Closed Sunday-Monday.

2636 NW 26th Ave., Suite 2, 503-208-7353, escapegamespdx.com.

While Escape Games’ Prison Break and Sherlock rooms serve as perfectly engrossing life-size puzzle boxes, this place’s true masterwork pays homage to—ahem— “Stumped-town” Portlandia: Bridges, Bikes and Brews asks participants to solve a series of challenges themed after the Rose City—or risk, in a reversal of usual concerns, never leaving a PDX apartment.

PITTOCK MANSION

3229 NW Pittock Drive, pittockmansion.org.

Much as its menu (comfort Cajun), show list (bar-band blues) and premises (three successively smaller buildings fused together, like a melted nesting doll) resemble a Northwest Industrial throwback to the heyday of Belushi and Prudhomme, Catfish Lou’s arrived last year swimming in juke-joint authenticity.

A French Renaissance-style great house built high atop the West Hills just over a century ago by Oregonian publisher Henry Pittock, this sandstone manse has spent half of its life as a public museum of late-Gilded Age opulence. Stroll the 46-acre estate grounds for unparalleled views of the cityscape 1,000 feet below.

THE SWIFTS AT CHAPMAN ELEMENTARY SCHOOL

STEEL DOOR GALLERY

One of the wonders of Portland. On late summer evenings, bird watchers from around the world flock to the lawn of Chapman Elementary’s main campus to watch North America’s largest concentration of Vaux’s swifts (as many as 30,000 at a time) swirl themselves into a massive aerial funnel before descending en masse to roost inside the 1923 school’s chimney during a stopover on their southward migration.

Very much a show-driven gallery, this compact space concentrates on midcareer local artists and displays a special fondness for outsider artists (Bob Volke’s haunting portraiture) and outre visions (the Lego pointillism of Brian Hanna’s celeb mosaics).

1445 NW 26th Ave.

Fillmore

ESCAPE GAMES

2412 NW Raleigh St., 503-875-6950, steeldoorgallery.com. Closed Sunday-Monday.

Trattoria

Italian Home Cooking

Tuesday–Saturday 5:30PM–10PM closed Sunday & Monday

1937 NW 23RD Place Portland, OR 97210 (971) 386-5935 STEEL DOOR GALLERY | Rosie Struve

OUTER WESTSIDE

WILL AMETTE WEEK

INNER NORTHEAST

OMPARED TO THE DOZENS OF BARS just south of the highways— to say nothing of the thriving new neighborhoods of North Williams and Mississippi to the west—Inner Northeast is quiet. The heyday of the thriving African-American community along Martin Luther King Jr. Boulevard (formerly Union Avenue) is long gone. The streetcar no longer runs up and down the north-south thoroughfare. Nowadays, whole blocks are dotted with shuttered businesses frozen between disenfranchisement and gentrification. No matter: There is authenticity here money simply cannot buy. On top of that, this district contains many of the gems that make Portland such a singular place to live. I’m not sure if there’s any better metaphor for what makes Portland special than the Portland Playhouse—an abandoned church turned esteemed neighborhood playhouse after a battle with the city won by passionate neighbors and theater lovers. Over the entryway, the word “Pray” has been edited on a sign that now reads “House of Play.” And while there isn’t a famous doughnut shop in these parts, there is cuisine from across the African continent you can’t find elsewhere in Portland. There’s also the best mall in town, and a cat cafe. Portland isn’t a city that demands the finest—we want things to be real, weird and easygoing. That is Inner Northeast.

BY LAUREN YOSHIKO My family goes back for several generations of Portlanders. Me, I’ve been here the past five years, writing about cannabis and the arts for Willamette Week , Broccoli and Rolling Stone , and I am the editor of this edition of WW ’s Finder. Although I’m currently a westsider, you’ll see me across the river picking up Girl Scout Cookies at Farma, inhaling a plate of salt and pepper chicken at Powell’s Seafood, and then sweating it all out at Löyly.

NEIGHBORHOOD NOTES In 1967, a civil rights rally called “Sunday in the Park” was planned at Irving Park, without many details. Just as the hundreds of young black people realized the scheduled speeches by Black Panther leaders were not going to happen, tension was ratcheted up with National Guard patrols and several plainclothes detectives. Then a militant group of teens began to throw rocks at a nearby shopfront, triggering a riot that lasted into the next day. One year later, five young people went to Lloyd Center to distribute invitations to protest the Vietnam draft. After being threatened with arrest and escorted off the premises by mall security, the respondents later sued the mall for violating their First Amendment rights. The U.S. District Court of Oregon upheld the suit, finding that since the mall was open to the general public, Lloyd Center had no right to interfere with citizens’ freedom of speech.

JAYNE | Candace Molatore

THE PICKS WHERE TO GRAB A CUP OF JOE, BUY WEED, WALK YOUR POOCH, AND PICK UP GROCERIES.

TWENTYSIX CAFE 2723 NE 7th Ave. 503-284-6033 26cafe.com

JAYNE 2145 NE MLK Jr. Blvd. 503-719-5665 jaynepdx.com

IRVING PARK 707 NE Fremont St. 503-823-7529

MERKATO ETHIOPIAN FOOD STORE 2605 NE MLK Jr. Blvd. 503-331-9283

N O R T H E A S T B R O A D WAY A N D S U L L I VA N ’ S G U L C H NORTHEAST BROADWAY IS LOCATED so perfectly between the busy highways to the south and residential expanse on most other sides that it’s retained a remarkably regular vibe. You can count the twee boutiques and hyper-stylish cafes on one hand. Capitol is one of the cooler newish bars in town, but by day, the Peet’s Coffee across the street sees more traffic. I visit Broadway as frequently to get a massage at Mudra as I do getting a drink at Swift or stopping by Pets on Broadway to pet ferrets and buy catnip. Broadway is real; it’s where people live, work and play in equal measure.

must

EAT PETISCO

1411 NE Broadway, 503-360-1048, petiscopdx.com. Lunch-late Tuesday-Sunday.

Rosie Struve

This little romantic, basement-dwelling eatery was one of my first loves when I moved here. Petisco strikes a perfect balance between a laid-back upscale sandwichsalad-wine bar, and a candlelit European bistro. During happy hour 3 to 6 pm Tuesday through Saturday, all sandwiches are $6, including my favorite horseradish-smothered roast beef sandwich. $-$$.

NICOLAS

3223 NE Broadway, 503-445-4700, nicholasrestaurant.com. Lunch and dinner daily.

At all three Nicolas locations (318 SE Grand Ave. and 323 N Main Ave., Gresham, are the other two), Portlanders feel at home. It’s one the most comforting restaurants in the city, where every type of local satisfies cravings for Lebanese and Mediterranean food with generous portions of smooth hummus, huge puffy pitas and well-seasoned meats. $-$$.

FRANK’S NOODLE HOUSE

822 NE Broadway, 503-288-1007, franksnoodlehousepdx.com. Lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday.

Frank’s thick, twisty, rugged homemade noodles bathed in a rich black bean sauce remain one of the city’s purest comforts. The sauce on the black bean noodles is sticky but not sweet, an umami-dense and tangy bath that pairs perfectly with the dough under it. Located in an old two-story house on Broadway, this is comfort food in every sense. $.

SWIFT LOUNGE 1932 NE Broadway, 503-288-3333, swiftloungepdx.com. There’s something about Swift; it never gets old. The few tables fill up quickly as shifts end—especially out front, where you can bring your drink and the usual cigarette smoke creates a very back-alley French bar feel. Visit after dark on a Monday and a live DJ transforms the punky bar into a dance club. Maybe it feels so comfortable because everyone is drinking the same thing: a Mason jar cocktail. Pick a size ($6 for 16 ounces, $9 for 32), pick your poison (I go for the Kentucky Blackbird: bourbon, lemon, mint, peach bitters and house peach syrup), and make some new friends.

DRINK BLACK WATER BAR

835 NE Broadway, 503-281-0439.

A haven for vegan punks and young Portlanders alike, Black Water Bar has been treasured for its vegan nachos, better-thanusual booze (for a metal bar, that is), and all-ages garage, punk and metal shows since its inception in 2015. On non-show nights, the bar’s projection screen shows classic horror films or hosts video tournaments for Street Fighter V. During one of my visits, the bartender had put on Seinfeld reruns.

CAPITOL

1440 NE Broadway, capitolpdx.com.

BLACK WATER BAR | Thomas Teal

FINDER 2018

This is going to sound harsh, but Northeast Broadway just hasn’t been all that cool— at least when it comes to nightlife. People haven’t been coming here to see and be seen. All that changed when Capitol opened. Now, far better-dressed bargoers are packing into this corner space after dark, waiting for bartenders to concoct a tasty cocktail from the Kubrickian shelves of color-coordinated, geometrically aligned liquor bottles. Happy hour is a generous stretch from 3 to 7pm Monday through Friday, which means you can get signed up early for karaoke in the back. INNER NORTHEAST

UPRIGHT BREWING

240 N Broadway, No. 2, 503-735-5337, uprightbrewing.com.

Everything in this cozy, no-frills speakeasystyle brewery feels like a work of art—from Upright’s standard-bearing Engelberg Pils (WW’s 2015 Beer of the Year), to a vermouth barrel-aged Ives Lambic. Upright’s complex mixed-fermentation saison Pathways, which tastes like a heritage Belgian but still pours out of the draft for $6 year round, took our award for 2018 Beer of the Year.

REVEREND NAT’S HARD CIDER 1813 NE 2nd Ave., 503-567-2221, reverendnatshardcider.com.

Rev Nat’s is probably the most battily inventive cider spot in the country, from a Spanish-style Sidra de Bravo made by refermenting spent apple skins to an apple sour made with de Garde and a crazily good fermented-pineapple tepache.

HALE PELE

2733 NE Broadway, 503-662-8454, halepele.com.

Hale Pele is a Disneyland experience where rum lovers crowd around bowls of colorful drinks while cracks of thunder and curls of smoke dance around the thatched ceiling. Catch $6 cocktails like Trader Vic’s original mai tai and the Lost Lagoon (rum, pineapple and cold brew) during happy hour, 4 to 6 pm daily.

SAINT SIMON COFFEE

2005 NE Broadway, 971-703-4993, saintsimoncoffee.com.

A cozy and family-owned coffee nook that flirts with being very trendy but always feels familiar. Coava coffee is served alongside pastries from Bake Shop, with seasonal specials like this summer’s cold brew flight of three different brews.

ROSE & THISTLE

2314 NE Broadway, 503-287-8582, roseandthistlepdx.com.

Owners Bobby and Sandra Sutherland wanted a hometown pub for other Scottish ex-pats like Bobby, thus naming their pub after Portland (the Rose) and Scotland (the Thistle). With a friendly vibe, above average pub fare, and a massive outdoor patio deck in the back, this Scottish pub ended up raising the bar for every other neighborhood watering hole.

ELECTRIC LETTUCE | Liz Allan

SHOP BROADWAY BOOKS

1714 NE Broadway, 503-284-1726, broadwaybooks.net.

Among the OGs of indie bookstores, Broadway Books has been doing its thing since 1992. Besides new and used books, magazines and cookbooks, you can make special orders at no extra charge. Broadway Books is also a good spot for picking up signed copies by local authors like Cheryl Strayed.

THINGS FROM ANOTHER WORLD 2916 NE Broadway, 503-284-4693, tfaw.com.

One of Portland’s beloved destinations for pop culture merch and comics, both the Broadway and Milwaukie locations of TFAW are frequented by gamers and comic book lovers alike. In addition to the latest graphic novels, there are action figures, Funko Pops and Stranger Things No.1, an upcoming comic release based on Will’s unseen journey during Season 1 of the Netflix show .

WIGLAND

1011 NE Broadway, 503-282-1664, wiglandportland.com.

DEMIMONDE STUDIO & SHOP | Suzie Gotis

INNER NORTHEAST

As one would expect, Wigland contains a vast array of wigs, hairpieces, extensions and head wraps. Find $295 heat-friendly synthetic lace fronts by Jon Renau or a $35 Maude wig—a replica of Julianne Moore’s burgundy bob in The Big Lebowski.

WILL AMETTE WEEK

LA ORT

ND’

Pet Pageant

ELECTRIC LETTUCE

C o m i n g J a n u a r y 2 019

203 NE Weidler St., 971-983-8357, electriclettuce.com.

Serra knew its high-end approach to cannabis wouldn’t be everyone’s cup of tea. That’s why it created the chilled-out sister brand Electric Lettuce, which leans into classic stoner culture with a polished touch. You’ll see the same products you see at Serra, like Pruf Cultivar flower, Woodblock Chocolate and Mr. Moxey’s Mints. But the bubble letters and psychedelic paint job embody marijuana’s golden age in American culture.

DEMIMONDE STUDIO & SHOP

2428 NE Broadway, 503-206-6371, demimondeshop.com.

Every time you visit Demimonde, you’ll be struck by a piece of jewelry the likes of which you’ve never seen. That’s because at artist Rachael Fox’s studio and shop, everything is one of a kind or a limited-edition piece by her or other Portland designers like Beam & Anchor and Tilde.

GO LLOYD CENTER

2201 Lloyd Center, lloydcenter.com.

I go to Lloyd Center when I need a new pair of Vans or feel like perusing the racks of Ross Dress for Less for some deals. I also end up at Lloyd Center’s ice skating rink when spending a day with my younger cousins, or to catch a movie at the Regal Cinemas across the street. At the only central mall that real Portlanders regularly visit, you’re bound to find more than one day’s worth of fun. FINDER 2018

INNER NORTHEAST

BIKE FARM

1810 NE 1st Ave., 503-583-2760, bikefarm.org.

Bike Farm is an example of Portlanders at their best, coming together in the name of cycling at an all-volunteer-run collective dedicated to DIY bicycle education. The space contains a shop with tools and plenty of helpers, acting as a resource and a garage for those who want to learn how to maintain bikes on their own.

FRUIT SALAD CLUB

1704 NE 16th Ave., fruitsaladclub.com. By appointment only.

A gallery meets community studio and gift shop, co-owners Libby Landauer and Jillian Barthold consider FSC a â&#x20AC;&#x153;friendly little art clubhouse.â&#x20AC;? They hope you come make art with them, hire them to make art, or browse the selection of illustrations, enamel pins, totes and super-cute notebooks. Keep an eye out for events like local poetry readings, or consider Fruit Salad for your next artistic venue.

LLOYD FARMERS MARKET

820 NE Holladay St., 503-709-7403, lloydfarmersmkt.net. 10 am-2 pm Tuesday.

Held under the gazebo in the Oregon Square Courtyard on Northeast Holladay Street, this year-round market can be easily reached via MAX with the 7th Avenue stop right across the street. Pick up locally grown, organic berries from Kiyokawa Family Orchards, cucumbers and peas from Udan Farm, and then take a lunch break at Mixteca for traditional Oaxacan tamales and mole.

Libby Landauer and Jillian Barthold of Fruit Salad Club

Katie Reahl

INNER NORTHEAST

WILL AMETTE WEEK

FINDER 2018

INNER NORTHEAST

IRVINGTON LOOKING AT THIS PETITE CHUNK of Northeast Portland on a map, it seems silly to consider this handful of blocks its own neighborhood. But when you’re branching off the main drag of MLK to get to Irving Park, it instantly feels like a different part of town. One where neighbors wave as they jog past one another, and no one calls the cops on anyone’s barbecue. One where Portland Trail Blazer Damian Lillard rolls open a U-Haul on a random Monday evening to give away sneakers and sign autographs. It may not be a large part of town, but Irvington has its own thing—a distinctly inclusive vibe—one we shouldn’t take for granted.

EAT ACADIA

1303 NE Fremont St., 503-249-5001, acadiapdx.com.

Drawing from the cuisine of New Orleans, Acadia’s execution of such decadent ingredients is elevated, restrained and refined. Inch-and-a-half-thick pork chops are tender and perfectly cooked, painfully delicious against the seasonal poached peaches. Fried soft-shell Louisiana blue crab almost melts in your mouth. $$-$$$$.

GRAIN & GRISTLE

1473 NE Prescott St., 503-288-4740, grainandgristle.com.

At this no-frills box of a blond-wood gastropub, the burger is simple. But the half-pound patty comes from a line of Hereford cows cultivated since 1856 at Oregon’s Hawley Ranch, butchered at Old Salt (page TK). With near-exclusive access to some of the best ingredients in the city, Grain & Gristle is a dream of farm-to-table come to humble life. $$-$$$.

DRINK 15TH AVENUE HOPHOUSE

THE POCKET PUB

1517 NE Brazee St., 971-266-8392, oregonhophouse.com.

A grown-up pizza pub across the street from Irving Park is worth keeping in mind as a low-key spot for enjoying $8 cocktails and 12-inch pies made from locally grown ingredients. My go-to combo: Take one Prosciutto Goat Cheese (red onion, arugula, garlic cream sauce, honey drizzle; $17) alongside Roasted Garlic Knotts ($7), with buttery mornay dipping sauce. $-$$.

DADDY MOJO’S CAFE

2719 NE 7th Ave., 503-287-3645, pocketpubpdx.com. Dinner-late nightly.

Boasting 33 taps, the Hophouse is a familyfriendly haven for beer lovers and their children. Bring your growler, or get a 16-ounce draft of IPA 97 by Silver Moon Brewing in Bend for $6 or the same amount of Tamarindo Cider from La Familia Cider in Salem for $6.50. Take advantage of the food (delicious) discounts during the daily happy hour 2 to 6 pm, 9 pm to close, and all day Sunday. 1501 NE Fremont St., 503-282-0956, daddy-mojos-cafe.business.site.

For a dive that sells sushi, gumbo, pub burgers and a pretty solid breakfast, the question is more like what isn’t Daddy Mojo’s? Not to mention: Owner Vilath Oudomphong, Laotian immigrant and celebrity enthusiast, has rendered his walls into an unofficial hall of stardom, decorated with an unrivaled collection of signed photographs that includes his prized head shot of Anna Kournikova.

INNER NORTHEAST

WILL AMETTE WEEK

must

BELLA FLORA STUDIO 2721 NE 7th Ave., 503-866-3009. One part über-feminine vintage destination and one part fairy wonderland, Bella Flora is where Elaine Falbo is queen of all things dainty and lovely. Alongside lacy frocks, antique glassware and silken vintage finds for sale, Falbo sells dried plants like pussy willow and rose buds by the bushel. She turns those flowers and branches into wreaths, baskets and little decorative accents she calls “fairy furniture.” Next to the Pocket Pub, TwentySix Cafe and Irving Park, Bella Flora rounds out the most adorable intersection in Northeast.

PORTLAND’S PREMIER SUGARING STUDIO

1313 NE Fremont Street + 3219 SE Division Street

GO ARIADNE GARDEN

3606 NE 11th Ave., ariadnegarden.com. Wednesday and Saturday mornings, May-October.

An organic garden that has overtaken a double lot located between Beech and Fremont streets, the soil here is maintained with the entire soil-food web in mind—plant matter, protozoa and nematodes included. Ariadne also sells its own flowers and vegetables from a produce stand onsite.

sugarmeportland.com

@sugarmepdx

BELLA FLORA | Suzie Gotis

SHOP RERUN

707 NE Fremont St., 503-517-3786, portlandrerun.com.

There are a lot of reasons to give this consignment/resale store a shot, but here are some of Rerun’s favorite testimonials from inside the shop: selling a 75-year-old woman a yearbook from her graduating class, to replace the one she lost in a fire; creating a space where a 19-year-old punk rock girl and a 65-year-old housewife can exchange fashion tips; and the sale of a first bike to many new riders.

RERUN | Suzie Gotis

FINDER 2018

INNER NORTHEAST

NORTHEAST MLK JR. B O U L E VA R D THE ARTERIAL STRETCH OF MARTIN LUTHER KING JR. BOULEVARD (fka Union Avenue) has lived many lives. In 1909, this neighborhood went by “Little Russia.” Fifty years later, the area was home to most of Portland’s black population, and my grandma snuck off to Union Avenue to listen to jazz records after school. For now, this major street operates at a pace of one much smaller, where you will have to walk multiple blocks to get from one cafe to another, giving you adequate time to digest the flavorful meal you just enjoyed at an African eatery.

must

PORTLAND PLAYHOUSE 602 NE Prescott St., 503-4885822, portlandplayhouse.org. At first, the audience sat on Craigslist sofas in this converted, dilapidated church. In the past 10 years, the neighborhood rallied—first overturning a cease-and-desist order from the city in 2012 and then volunteering to help remodel the playhouse into the broadly appealing venue it’s become. Cushy seats replaced the couches. The concession stand boasts several Boylan sodas. And the Playhouse has completed half of August Wilson’s American Century Cycle, aiming to become one of the few companies in the country to produce all 10 plays.

AKADI | Christine Dong

Fatou Outtara, owner of Akadi

EAT OX

2225 NE Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd., 503-284-3366. Dinner nightly.

Portland Playhouse's production of Fences

At a steak house, you expect the big chunk of meat to be the star of the show. At Argentine-inspired Ox, steak is only a player in a meal whose gargantuan flavors admirably balance. Almost everyone orders the chowder to start: a masterful broth of milk, cream and smoked marrow bone—heated gently with slivers of jalapeño. The chorizo is airy and rounded with warm spice, and the sweetbreads are like umami gumdrops. Even the taters are terrific. $$$$.

TORO BRAVO

120 NE Russell St., 503-281-4464, torobravopdx.com. Dinner nightly.

Whether it’s a $12 half plate of the dryaged, almond-garlic-chili coppa steak that made chef John Gorham’s name in this city or crisp patatas bravas served with beef tallow-wasabi sauce, this singular dining experience—one that remains listed among Portland’s best restaurants since it opened in 2007—will have you falling in love anew visit after visit, small plate after small plate. $-$$$.

NED LUDD

3925 NE Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd., 503-288-6900, nedluddpdx.com. Dinner nightly.

PORTLAND PLAYHOUSE | Brud Giles

INNER NORTHEAST

Ned Ludd’s wood-fired meats, housemade pickles and seasonal small plates were once at the forefront of the city’s neo-rustique Americana cuisine. A recent visit found chef Jason French still doing wonders with sweetly fragrant rosemary-roasted hazelnuts, Carman Ranch skirt steak and a summery melon and tomato salad. $$. WILL AMETTE WEEK

MATT’S BBQ

4709 NE Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd., 503-504-0870. Lunch and dinner Wednesday-Sunday, or until sold out.

As the smoke of the barbecue boom clears, there’s only one spot we’re excited about. That’s this cart, in the parking lot of H&B Jewelry and Loan between the two Popeyeses on MLK. The sliced brisket is the showstopper, with thick, smoky black bark and a texture that perfectly straddles the line between moist and sloppy. $.

AKADI

2061, 3601 NE Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd., 503-4777138, akadipdx.com. Lunch and dinner daily.

Owner Fatou Ouattara hails from Bouake, Cote D’Ivoire, but her restaurant serves plates from across West Africa. Enjoy savory deep-fried whole tilapia, yuca-like cassava sticks (taste just like french fries), and fried plantains, all the while wondering which combination of spices is creating that new flavor. $-$$.

QUEEN OF SHEBA

2413 NE Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd., 503-287-6302, queenofsheba.biz. Lunch Thursday-Saturday, dinner nightly.

With many ingredients sourced from Ethiopia, Queen of Sheba has been providing authentic North African cuisine in the same spot on MLK for over 20 years. The injera bread and vegetarian sampler plate are local favorites, but if you’re unsure, the friendly servers are great at matching your tastes. $-$$.

DRINK BEECH STREET PARLOR

412 NE Beech St., 503-946-8184, beechstreetparlor.com.

Built in 1906, Beech Street Parlor is an Old Portland foursquare that got converted into a bar in 2011. It’s since become a hybrid of cozy neighborhood hang and classy cocktail den where DJs spin nightly. Order a refreshing cucumber gin gimlet ($7.50) before joining your Bumble date on a plush sofa beneath a whimsical grouping of Edison bulbs.

BILLY RAY’S NEIGHBORHOOD DIVE 2216 NE Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd., 503-287-7254.

Not only does this cash-only dive have some of the cheapest beer in town ($2 Rainier), it also has one of the quaintest—and least divey— patios to drink it on. Plus pinball.

LOCAL LOUNGE

3536 NE Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd., 503-282-1833, locallounge.wordpress.com.

A queer-friendly spot with a range of socials and dance nights, Local Lounge is as invaluable an inclusive venue as it is a reliable neighborhood bar with a 4-to-8 pm happy hour on Fridays. First Saturdays are reggae nights, and the following Saturday of the month hosts the official monthly Oregon Bear Association event.

BILLY RAY'S NEIGHBORHOOD DIVE | Suzie Gotis

FINDER 2018

INNER NORTHEAST

SHOP BLACK HAT BOOKS

2831 NE Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd.

After habitually frequenting Powell’s since the 1970s, Fred Nemo had accumulated 30,000 to 40,000 books. So he opened a bookstore, with a notably rich selection of Latino, Native American, and AfricanAmerican literature, history and poetry. And if that name rings a bell, it’s because Nemo was formerly the dancing member of Hazel, a legendary grunge band from Old Portland’s golden age.

TITLE WAVE USED BOOKSTORE 216 NE Knott St., 503-988-5021. Closed Sunday.

As the name suggests, this store sells thousands of books, audiobooks, CDs, DVDs and magazines—all retired inventory from the Multnomah County Library. You can find books starting at 25 cents; even hardback novels and nonfiction for $2. Title Wave is located in the former Albina Library building—a stunning Spanish Renaissance Revival-style structure first built in 1912.

MOTHERSHIP MUSIC

3611 NE Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd., 503-287-0311.

Mothership brings music to MLK—literally, with outdoor concerts hosted in the empty lot next door. Among the most charming of independent music stores in town, this is truly a mother lode of instruments packed into a colorful, bite-size space, along with stacks of affordable vinyl.

GOODS BMX

2808 NE Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd., Suite O, 503282-5408, goodsbmx.com.

For those into competitive BMX or recreational mountain biking, this shop is your motherland. Get the sprocket, grip, fork or frame you’ve been needing to prepare for your next trick or trip through the wilderness. The shop also stocks safety gear like helmets and knee pads, apparel, an assortment of magazines, cycling books and live concert DVDs.

Fred Nemo, owner of Black Hat Books

SUGAR MOUNTAIN VINTAGE 315 NE Wygant St., 503-505-1722, sugarmountainvintage.com.

Sugar Mountain carries the usual ’70s scarves, Levi’s and lacy blouses. But what sets this vintage boutique apart is its attention to textiles: woven baskets, macrame art, embroidered throw pillows and knitted ponchos—all in great condition and reasonably priced.

GO LÖYLY

3525 NE Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd., 503-914-4303, loyly.net.

Minimalist design aesthetics aren’t the only inspiration Portland is drawing from Scandinavian culture. At Löyly (the Finnish word for the steam), Portlanders disrobe as the Finns do, unwinding in a beautifully designed hot rock sauna and steam room. The $39 Sauna Special gets you two hours of sauna time that includes a lemon chamomile aromatherapy foot soak, a Dr. Hauschka detoxifying clay mask, and a lemon cucumber sparkling water to sip between sauna rounds. If you want peak silence, head to the Southeast location (2713 SE 21st Ave.) where no talking is allowed while in the sauna.

FISK GALLERY

3613 NE Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd., fiskgallery.com.

At this gallery curated by the design firm Fisk Projects, you’ll find the more adventurous work of renowned graphic designers and illustrators. Recent exhibitions include the paintings of Kentaro Okawara and drawings by Ed Fella, considered by many to be one of the most influential designers of the past 25 years.

WONDER BALLROOM

128 NE Russell St., wonderballroom.com.

A varsity player in the realm of Portland concert venues, the Wonder hosts metal acts, indie folk, Danish punk rock and everything in between. The 100-year-old building has been revived with Keith Haring-esque murals that sprawl across the entryway and main hall. Downstairs holds a second bar and a secluded smoking patio shrouded in bamboo, which transitions into outdoor seating for an outpost of Bunk Bar. Need I say more?

PURRINGTONS CAT LOUNGE

3529 NE Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd., 503-334-3570, purringtonscatlounge.com.

No, this is not a place to bring your cat to play with other cats. But you do get to order a coffee or beer to sip while playing with cats—all available for adoption. Come by on Sunday evenings for $20 cat yoga, when cats wander in to mingle during the last half-hour of class.

BLACK HAT BOOKS | Suzie Gotis

INNER NORTHEAST

WILL AMETTE WEEK

QUEER NIGHTLIFE You don’t have to look far to find a fun, queer-friendly space near you, but finding your people within the scene can be more elusive. Here is a starter lineup of dance nights, parties and like-minded mixers to guide your journey. If you don’t identify as queer but still want to attend the best dance nights in town, remember to be a gracious guest in someone else’s safe space.

JUDY ON DUTY facebook.com/judyondutypdx. A sweaty, smiley lesbian-powered dancefest held the last Saturday of the month at High Water Mark (page 80) and sometimes White Owl Social Club (page 140). CAKE Killingsworth Dynasty, 832 N Killingsworth St., 971-407-3995, facebook. com/cakepartyla. One of Killingsworth Dynasty’s multiple queer-friendly dance parties to the beat of DJs Automaton and Ronin Roc, Cake is a hip-hop night for LGBTQIA+, POC and their allies on the second Friday of the month.

JUMP JACK SOUND MACHINE Mississippi Studios, 3939 N Mississippi Ave., 503-288-3895, facebook.com/ JumpJackSoundMachine. Come see the most creative club kids in the Northwest and be seen in an otherworldly look of your own at this sort of dance floor-meetsperformance art showcase. CLUB KAI KAI Holocene, 1001 SE Morrison St., 503239-7639, facebook.com/clubkaikai. Hosted by local party symbol Patrick Buckmaster, this dance party/ impromptu drag show is where you might rub up against the likes of Amanda Lepore or Tiffany “New York” Pollard.

BOYEURISM Bossanova Ballroom, 722 E Burnside St., 503-206-7630, facebook.com/pg/ BOYeurism. A drag-tastic revue of burlesque, singers and performers hosted by Alexis Campbell Starr on the second Friday of every month. Head back to the Bossanova on last Saturdays for Blow Pony, Portland’s longestrunning queer dance party, and—if you’re into bearded men—keep an eye out for Bearracuda events.

Illustration by Olivia Lynch

NOW IS THE TIME, THE TIME IS NOW MURAL

Irvington Covenant Church, 4046 NE Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd., 503-287-5226, irvingtoncov.org.

This 70-foot mural depicting Martin Luther King Jr. and other prominent black Americans was painted by Isaka ShamsudDin and teenage apprentices in 1989. It was both an opportunity to get young artists involved in revitalizing the area and to demonstrate pride for the neighborhood, and a call to inspire the African-American community to know its history and to create its own identity.

MLK MURAL | Rosie Struve

FINDER 2018

INNER NORTHEAST

LOWER NORTH PORTLAND

N AN EPISODE of Comedians in Cars Getting Coffee, Jerry Seinfeld asks Fred Armisen to take him to the “heartbeat of Portland—the source, the core, the epicenter.” The pair end up at Paxton Gate on North Mississippi Avenue, marveling at a preserved butterfly specimen. In other words, Lower North Portland is a cultural litmus test where beauty struggles for space alongside pain, and you can watch the changes in real time. Where spacious Victorians with wide, now unaffordable, porches are flanked by the memories of Martin Luther King Jr. Boulevard’s former reputation as “Crack Alley.” Once home to the majority of Portland’s African-American population, the sad tale of displacement still haunts the area as shuttered spaces become shiny new high-rises in what feels like a matter of days. But it’s also an area where the family-owned business or small food cart looking to make its mark has a solid chance to do so. Whatever your take on Lower NoPo, there’s no denying it’s stocked with some of the city’s most idiosyncratic boutiques and authentic ethnic markets, and sun-soaked patios worth exploring. Jump in with an open mind and an empty belly.

BY JANELLE LASSALLE Hailing from Orange County, Calif., I moved here for Portland’s culinary allure. I’ve been in town for nearly five years now, and my pastimes center on a growing poke obsession (Izakaya Kichinto ftw) as well as succumbing to my sweet tooth with a slice of pie at Sweedeedee. NEIGHBORHOOD NOTES During a national speaking tour in 1961, Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. stopped in Portland to speak at the Vancouver Avenue First Baptist Church (3138 N Vancouver Ave.) about integration saving democracy. In the 1960s, the green building at 2125 N Vancouver Ave. was Portland’s own Cotton Club (see image top right), a renowned jazz joint owned by Paul Knauls where you could see acts like Big Mama Thornton and Sammy Davis Jr.

must

MICROCOSM PUBLISHING, 2752 N Williams Ave., 503-7992698, microcosmpublishing.com. Every, and I mean every, sort of zine imaginable hides out on the shelves of this independent publisher. Zines dedicated to unfucking your brain. Adult coloring books. Hand-drawn zines. Zines devoted to examining the gender gap in cyclists. Most centered on empowerment, DIY, gender, punk and local history. Hardbound books, too. MISSISSIPPI NEIGHBORHOOD | Rosie Struve

THE PICKS WHERE TO GRAB A CUP OF JOE, BUY WEED, WALK YOUR POOCH, AND PICK UP GROCERIES.

RED E CAFE 1006 N Killingsworth St. 503-998-1387 theredecafe.com

BRIDGE CITY COLLECTIVE 4312 N Williams Ave. 503-384-2955 bridgecitycollective.com

SKIDMORE BLUFFS 2230 N Skidmore Court

CHERRY SPROUT PRODUCE 722 N Sumner St. 503-445-4959 cherrysprout.com

VA N C O U V E R / W I L L I A M S WALK DOWN NORTH WILLIAMS AVENUE when the weather is decent and—chances are—the smell of something tantalizingly smoky will catch your attention. There could be a barbecue going on at Dawson Park, or it’s the endless clouds billowing from the mighty smoker at People’s Pig—all are telltale signs of good times ahead. Happy-hour mavens in search of a good tipple muscle for sidewalk space as an endless stream of doggos, 20-somethings and young families bike (or hoverboard) to and from New Seasons with confusing frequency. It’s a neighborhood where simple pleasures like shuffleboard are encouraged, roomy back patios fill up with day drinkers before 5 pm and $5 to $6 can net you a very filling meal.

EAT

N VANCOUVER NEAR TILLAMOOK, COTTON CLUB ON RIGHT, 1963 | Courtesy of City of Portland Archives

OPEN TANDOOR

XLB

THE BIG ELEPHANT KITCHEN

The perfect place to get lunch on a sunny day. While the curries are tempting, you want to stay for the tandoor cooked on skewers in clay ovens, which impart great flavor to the meat while keeping everything devilishly moist. For the full experience, get the wrap filled with tandoori chicken, yogurt, cabbage and ranch. $-$$.

The name of the game here is Chinese comfort food. Opened in 2012 by former Aviary co-chef Jasper Shen, XLB is the city’s premier spot for bao, remarkable steamed dumplings filled with meat and soup. The Shanghai pork and shrimp noodles are also worth your attention. There are always interesting seasonal offerings on the specials board. $-$$.

For Indian food that goes beyond tandoor and tikka masala, Big Elephant is your place. Indian fare fused with Fijian cuisine produces tender lamb plates and crispy samosas that are as comforting as they are hearty. The lunch special ($5) is a tharkari plate that comes with a main, rice, dal, roti and chutney. $.

4311 N Williams Ave., 503-719-7347, opentandoor.com. Lunch and dinner daily.

TASTY N SONS

3808 N Williams Ave., Suite C, 503-621-1400, tastynsons.com. Brunch-dinner daily.

There’s a reason a line wraps around the block every weekend for brunch. Everything here is traditional with a playful twist, with modern American classics like hash transformed into Moroccan hash with harissa and a griddled rum cake that’ll make you realize the wait was so, so worth it. $$.

4090 N Williams Ave., 503-841-5373, xlbpdx.com. Lunch and dinner daily.

PEOPLE’S PIG

3217 N Williams Ave., 503-282-2800, peoplespig.com. Lunch and dinner daily.

Ah, that rich, umami-laden smoke billowing out of the smoker in front of People’s Pig. Sink your teeth into smoked pork shoulder, beef brisket or a beastly fried chicken sandwich with spicy mayo and jalapeño jelly on the patio out back. Don’t miss the killer happy hour from 3 to 6 pm on weekdays, with $3 draft beer/whiskey and a BBQ plate for $6. $.

3940 N Williams Ave., 503-477-9512. Lunch and dinner Monday-Sunday.

BREAD AND HONEY CAFE

3526 N Vancouver Ave., 503-444-7114, breadandhoneycafe.com. Breakfast-tea time daily.

A quiet space where you can get away from it all over a comforting pastry or three. Stop by for brunch on the weekends for biscuits and gravy, oak cakes, veggie hash and sides like bacon and potatoes. Did I mention the cafe hosts a once-a-month supper club where you can get four courses plus a drink for $45? $-$$.

EAT: AN OYSTER BAR

3808 N Williams Ave., No. 122, 503-281-1222, eatoysterbar.com. Brunch-dinner, Monday-Sunday.

Find one of the city’s best oyster happy hours in this den of Cajun food where the oysters are shipped from local farms and freshly shucked just for you. Catch $1 oysters from 3 to 5 pm and all day Tuesday. Feeling thirsty? There’s a lot of local wine, beer and bubbly to wash everything down with. $$-$$$.

Aubrey Gigandet

FINDER 2018

LOWER NORTH PORTLAND

DRINK

SHOP

EX NOVO

CONFECTION CRAFTS

2326 N Flint Ave., 503-894-8251, exnovobrew.com.

Beyond the fact that Ex Novo is a nonprofit that works with charities like Mercy Corps and Friends of the Children, it’s also a damn fine place to sit down and sip a beer over a nice meal. It’s an industrial warehouse that’s been upgraded with reclaimed wood, designed lamps and an upstairs area where you can retreat from the crowd. Families are welcome, with amenities like changing tables in every restroom.

VENDETTA

4306 N Williams Ave., 503-288-1085, vendettapdx.com.

The giant shuffleboard will keep you amused for hours on end. If that doesn’t do the trick, you can always just mosey on to drink a cocktail on the leafy zen garden back patio. Pours here are strong enough to make your chin hair stand on end, with specials like Maker’s Mark for $5 on Mondays, $1.50 tall cans of PBR on Tuesday nights, and $1.50 pints all day Sunday.

THE BOX SOCIAL

3971 N Williams Ave., 503-288-1111, bxsocial.com.

The vibe here is cool and classy in a dimly lit space quietly infused with candlelight, velvet curtains and all manner of sexy cocktails. Happy hour runs 4 to 6 pm and 11 pm to close, and while the menu lists cocktails for every spirit, you’ll probably still want to try the Dirty Little Thief (habanero-spiced tequila, sage, caramelized pineapple, lime) served tall and on the rocks.

3936 N Williams Ave., 503-505-0481, confectioncrafts.com. Closed Sunday.

A baker’s paradise. Find every kind of baking and sweet-making supply, from chocolate to candy molds and food coloring in every hue. If you’ve ever dreamed of baking that tort from The Great British Bake Off, sign up for the in-house chocolate workshop. Your time has come.

LARK PRESS

3901 N Williams Ave., 503-546-9930, larkpress.com.

This letterpress and stationery shop is a space for roaming through beautiful things, including every kind of cute invitation, greeting card and envelope, at every level of gilded embellishment or stark contrast. Lark Press can also design custom invites and business cards.

BLITHE AND BONNY

4140 N Williams Ave., 503-832-7032, blitheandbonny.com.

Find well-made, pretty things like body products, ceramics, candles and various home goods. There are also items that elude categorization—like the occasional recycled leather suitcase—and a smattering of wander-worthy art.

GO CLOAK & DAGGER BARBER CO. 3608 N Williams Ave., 503-206-7118, cloakanddaggerbarbers.com.

If you’ve ever wanted to be a rich, suave Brit for a day, head to Cloak & Dagger. It’s not so much a man cave as it is a man’s grotto, complete with sconces and a functional piano. The renowned barbers will even pour you a whisky, if you like.

GAME KNIGHT LOUNGE

3037 N Williams Ave., 503-236-3377, pdxgameknight.com.

With an in-house bar slinging drinks like Dungeons and Daiquiris, this is the spot for cool gamers. There are several areas to play one of the 500-plus board games available for rent—all for just $4! Bonus points: beer on tap, cocktails, wine by the glass and charcuterie boards. Roll through on a weekday if you don’t want to have to elbow for room.

GAME KNIGHT LOUNGE | Sam Gehrke

LOWER NORTH PORTLAND

WILL AMETTE WEEK

NORTH KILLINGSWORTH STREET

NAMED AFTER WILLIAM M. KILLINGSWORTH, the real estate mogul who helped bring the first electric car line to Oregon, Killingsworth has since blossomed into one of the most culturally diverse sectors of Portland. You have to do a little gold digging to find the gems in this still fairly undeveloped neighborhood. But once you find them, you’re neck deep in rich flavors from Northern Africa and Jamaica—cuisines you’ll be hard-pressed to find elsewhere in town. It’s also a porch-happy part of town, so bring your shades and prepare to tuck into a plate of something fried with a goblet full of something cold and frosty.

Courtesy of University of Oregon Library

EAT BARK CITY BBQ

1331 N Killingsworth St., 971-227-9707, barkcitybbq.com. Lunch and dinner Tuesday-Sunday.

Michael Keskin’s modest food cart on Killingsworth is one of the city’s great treasures. Every meat is complemented with bright, fresh flavors like mustard and vinegar to offset the smoky Oregon oak char on the pulled pork and ribs. Be sure to snag a little extra pickled avocado on the side and a thick milkshake to wash it all down. $.

MILK GLASS MRKT

must

SPITZ 2103 N Killingsworth St., 503-954-3601, spitzpdx.com. Lunch and dinner SundayThursday, lunch-late Friday-Saturday. The first thing you’ll notice about Spitz is its streetfacing patio, which provides the perfect backdrop for chowing down on lamb shawarmas in the sun. The next thing you’ll notice is the stunning graffitiinspired art coating the walls, with giant splotches of colorful paint breaking up the wide, airy space. It’s a glorious den of Mediterranean goodness where you can indulge in Turkish street fare, and with snacks on the menu like Street Cart Fries, you might end up staying a little longer than planned.

The W.M. Killingsworth Home on Alberta between Commercial and Vancouver

2150 N Killingsworth St., 503-395-4742, milkglassmrkt.com. Breakfast and lunch TuesdaySunday.

In this part cafe, part artisan market and part zen lunch spot, the large, street-facing windows and bright, wooden interiors and painted flowers on the wall make it hard to leave. The locally grown produce and cheddar biscuits made from scratch don’t make it any easier. $-$$.

LOS GORDITOS

902 N Killingsworth St., 503-208-3169, losgorditospdx.com. Lunch and dinner MondaySunday.

The vegan fare here is so sneakily crafted, carnivores may not even notice. Portions of soyrizo, soycurls, tofu and vegan cheese are verifiably huge, prices are cheap, and there is a meat menu for those of us who crave a little something more. $. FINDER 2018

SPITZ | Emily Joan Greene

LOWER NORTH PORTLAND

JAMAICAN HOMESTYLE CUISINE 441 N Killingsworth St., 503-289-1423. Lunch and dinner Tuesday-Sunday.

Maybe you’ve caught a whiff of that smell during a walk down Killingsworth: smoky, spicy, earthy with just a hint of sweetness. It’s the habanero-laced jerk crafted by Jamaica-born Keacean Ransom. Sit out on the patio and enjoy a plate of fried plantains and juicy, jerk-rubbed chicken thighs while the hustle of Killingsworth ebbs on by. $.

ENAT KITCHEN

300 N Killingsworth St., 503-285-4867. Lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday.

There are few places in Portland where you can go enjoy a piping hot plate of freshly cooked Ethiopian soul food. Enat Kitchen is the best in town. Vegetarians go for the miser key wot with its tender, aromatic lentils, while meat eaters will find comfort in the alicha wot curried lamb. $.

E’NJONI CAFE

910 N Killingsworth St., 503-286-1401, enjonicafe.com. Dinner Tuesday-Sunday, lunch Friday-Sunday.

Housed within these bright orange walls is an Ethiopian-centric cafe with halal dishes, African beers and wines, and Ethiopian espresso. More traditional fare like bamia bring okra to life in a way you never knew possible, but save room for a glass of tej honey wine or some zibib (Eritrean araki) as a digestif. $.

LOWER NORTH PORTLAND

AUTENTICA

5507 NE 30th Ave., 503-287-7555, autenticaportland.com. Dinner Tuesday-Friday, brunch-dinner Saturday-Sunday.

Former Southpark sous chef Oswaldo Bibiano’s friendly Concordia neighborhood spot is Mexicana to the max and packs an astonishing amount of flavor into every morsel. The guacamole is salty and earthy, the trio of salsas served with housemade tortillas delivers layers of heat, and the addition of a little pickled jalapeño takes a torta with roasted pork to the next dimension. $$.

BEAST

5425 NE 30th Ave., 503-841-6968, beastpdx.com. Dinner nightly.

Naomi Pomeroy is the queen of meat, from roasted quail with guanciale and farro to octopus thrown into a ragu with mint gremolata. Meals are served in Pomeroy’s distinctively playful, family style. Optional wine pairings accompany each course. $$-$$$.

THE FISH & CHIP SHOP

1218 N Killingsworth St., 503-232-3344, thefishandchipshop.com. Lunch and dinner Monday, Wednesday and Friday-Sunday.

When you’re drunk, or were drunk yesterday, you need something hot, fried and delicious. The Fish & Chip Shop is the kind of British pub where everything is fried in animal fat, the portions are generous and the vinegar flows freely. Then you dip it in mayo. $

JAMAICAN HOMESTYLE CUISINE | CJ Monserrat

GONZALEZ TAQUERIA

1540 N Killingsworth St., 503-289-2029. Breakfast and lunch Monday-Friday.

A quick Google search will reveal reviews with nearly five stars across the board, a feat that’s especially impressive considering Gonzalez’ hidden location behind the 76 station on Killingsworth. This little truck is still known for one of Portland’s favorite, tenderly grilled carnitas burritos ($6.50). $.

DRINK BACKYARD SOCIAL

1914 N Killingsworth St., 503-719-4316, backyardsocialpdx.com.

An urban oasis enclosed in bamboo and featuring a cherry tree, the former Hop & Vine space is now a serene neighborhood bar with a highbrow menu. Besides a top-notch beer selection, the lineup of sharing plates includes bold offerings like a wild nettle and ricotta gnocchi with chanterelles, crispy duck confit and grilled hanger steak smeared in chimichurri butter. WILL AMETTE WEEK

SARAVEZA

1004 N Killingsworth St., 503-206-4252, saraveza.com.

How do you spot a proper gastropub? By the combination of beer, pasties and regular crowds, of course. In addition to the green vintage fridge stocked with vast quantities of select craft beer, there is an unapologetically Midwestern menu designed by Dustin Gettmann, a veteran of Pok Pok NY, that includes cheese curls, deviled eggs and an artisan Reuben pasty hearty enough to handle all that beer.

THE LOST AND FOUND

5426 N Gay Ave., 503-477-7313, lostandfoundpdx.com.

Getting here—hightailing it through a small alley that’s barely discernible on Killingsworth—is half the fun. The other half is sitting outside on the giant patio with a craft cocktail in hand and some Mexican eats by your side.

GARAGISTE

1225 N Killingsworth St., 503-954-3959, janmarcwinecellars.com. Closed Monday and Tuesday.

Keep a keen eye out or you just might walk past the new home of NoPo’s Jan-Marc Wine Cellars, a place where you can get something savory or sweet to pair with a glass of a pinot noir harvested from one of the oldest vineyards in the Willamette Valley.

KILLINGSWORTH DYNASTY

832 N Killingsworth St., 971-407-3995, killingsworthdynasty.com. Closed Sunday-Tuesday.

From post-punk discotheque to dynasty goth night, there’s always something going on at this eclectic cocktail bar and venue. For washing down Dynasty’s vegan bar eats, try the Grifter (jasmine vodka, orange blossom water, lemon juice, jasmine bitters). Get there before 10 pm for free admission.

NO BONES BEACH CLUB

3928 N Mississippi Ave., 503-206-6485, nobonesbeachclub.com.

Ceilings draped in fishnets and walls smothered in Waikiki posters and hula-dancer island kitsch provide the perfect setting for tropical cocktails made with fresh fruit and local spirits. Visit during happy hour, 5 to 6 pm Tuesday-Friday and 11 am to 3 pm on weekends, for $1 off drafts and wells, $6 slushies, and $5-to-$6 small plates.

SHOP RECLAIM IT!

1 N Killingsworth St., 503-866-7855, reclaimitpdx.org. Closed Monday-Tuesday.

Any sort of craft lover or vintage enthusiast can find just about anything at ReClaim It, from used furniture, records, cheap art supplies and kitchenware to ancient, but still functional, record players and knickknacks.

FINDER 2018

THE PORTLAND GAME STORE 922 N Killingsworth St., 503-289-6373, theportlandgamestore.com.

The play space in this friendly gaming hub is lined with an abundant supply of board games, including RPG games alongside miniatures and paint supplies. Beer and cider are on tap, as well as food for those who’ve worked up an appetite during the Magic: The Gathering tournament.

HASHI’S HALAL MARKET 106 N Killingsworth St., 503-288-8852.

Halal meat is the Muslim equivalent of kosher, and Hashi’s has the territory covered, selling tasty halal chicken and goat in bulk as well as North African ingredients like sumac and rose water at bargain prices. Order a comically potent espresso from the back to get your shopping done in record time.

SOLABEE FLOWERS & BOTANICALS

801 N Killingsworth St., 503-307-2758, solabeeflowers.com.

Giant ferns drape overhead while bold palms leap out of every corner, accenting the dozens of colorful flowers. It’s a beautiful, serene space where you can access interior greening services, order a home delivery or snag a few for a wedding.

ZERO WAVE

722 N Killingsworth St., 971-266-3492. Closed Wednesday.

A vintage consignment store that also happens to sell musical merch. The feel here is distinctly ’90s, with a wall of VHS, cassette tapes and players sitting next to an assortment of amps and pedals. A few racks of colorful vintage duds hang around the guitars on the wall that seem to whisper encouragement to buy that Duran Duran cassette tape.

GO THE TARDIS ROOM

1218 N Killingsworth St., 503-232-3344.

Nestled in the back of the Fish & Chip Shop is a glorious homage to all things Doctor Who, the quintessential British TV show about a time-traveling alien once played by David Tennant. Catch sight of the TARDIS itself, as well as Doctor Who-themed posters, cutouts and possibly a few fellow fans of the Doctor outside their homes.

TURN! TURN! TURN!

8 NE Killingsworth St. 503-284-6019, turnturnturnpdx.com.

Part bar, part listening lounge, part live music venue, T!T!T! is still fighting the good fight to make a record store bar happen. Pick from the six rotating taps and flip through boxes of used vinyl until you find the right album to bring back to one of the “listening stations,” which have plush seats with turntables and headphones.

LOWER NORTH PORTLAND

M I S S I S S I P P I /A L B I N A THIS IS THE KOOKY CORE OF PORTLAND your friends warned you about. Where every name-brand variety hipster, student, activist, and overwhelmed parent is pedalling an orange Biketown cruiser through the streets on the hunt for cruelty-free tires, acai bowls and pigeon skulls. Despite its current state, Albina was first home a community of primarily Scandinavian and German immigrants. Then the Vanport Flood of 1948 moved most of Portland’s African-American community here, ushering in an era of packed dance halls and clubs that inspired the nickname “Jumptown.” These days, Jumptown players emerge from the dim interiors of Mississippi Studios and secret DJ sets in the back of hip retailers. North Mississippi Avenue is New Portland’s hub of hipster proliferation, and you’re going to enjoy it more than you’d like to admit.

must

Thomas Teal

SHE BOP 909 N Beech St., Suite A, 503-4738018, sheboptheshop.com. Hands down the best and most sophisticated adult boutique in town. No awkward discomfort, velvet curtains or side eye here. Only incredibly friendly, well-educated female employees who know the artisanal inventory with intimate familiarity. Their lack of judgment, coupled with the many community events She Bop puts on, promote sex positivity in a real way, offering daily classes that take the stigma and scariness out of topics like the art of deepthroating and anal sex.

Brown Calculus performing in Willamette Week 's Best New Band showcase at Mississippi Studios

EAT MISS DELTA’S

3950 N Mississippi Ave., 503-287-7629, missdeltapdx.net. Breakfast-dinner daily.

There are so many things to love at this Southern den of hospitality, starting with the large portions of biscuits and gravy, collard greens, gumbo and leviathan hunks of cornbread. You’ll want to take a trip here for brunch or dinner. $-$$.

QUAINTRELLE

3936 N Mississippi Ave., 503-200-5787, quaintrelle.co. Dinner Wednesday-Sunday.

This is a go-to spot for a classy, sit-down meal on Mississippi. The food champions the regional diversity of the Pacific Northwest, showcasing local ingredients with a visual aesthetic that’s as captivating as it is delicious. Expect to see seasonal farm-totable dishes like pork confit with turnips and hazelnuts, fresh oysters and veggies galore. $$-$$$.

LOWER NORTH PORTLAND

SHE BOP | Aubrey Gigandet

WILL AMETTE WEEK

VERDE COCINA

JORY

The place to take your gluten-free, vegan or paleo friend for a satisfying plate of Mexican-American fusion. Sit outside on the patio, order a bowl of verde guacamole and watch the Mississippi crowd march on by in all its glory. $$.

Barely more than a clean white counter, the pour-over magic served at Jory is incredibly smooth on even the weakest bellies, with five or six options available daily from a Pacific Northwestern rotation by roasters like Heart, Extracto, Upper Left, Nossa Familia, Sisters and Case Study. When coffee is brewed this well, there’s no need for extra milk or frills: It’s a gem all on its own.

3746 N Mississippi Ave., 503-206-7586, verdecocinamarket.com. Lunch and dinner TuesdayFriday, brunch-dinner Saturday-Sunday.

SWEEDEEDEE

5202 N Albina Ave., 503-946-8087, sweedeedee.com. Breakfast and lunch daily.

Sweedeedee is a charming nook where you can sit down for the kind of breakfast Mom used to make. There’s oatmeal and eggs, sure, but chilaquiles and a trout plate to try, too. Don’t you dare leave without a slice of pie. $.

DRINK LIBERTY GLASS

938 N Cook St., 503-517-9931, libertyglassbar.com.

A Portland house bar run by actual family members, Liberty Glass is a down-to-earth place for people watching. Everyone makes an appearance, from families enjoying cheeseburgers on the porch, to Tinder dates looking to get down in the corner. Happy hour is 3 to 6 pm daily, with $1 off drafts and cocktails, and a $5 cheeseburger with fries.

LOCALE

4330 N Mississippi Ave., 503-946-1614, localepdx.com.

This cafe by day and bar by night quietly oozes European swagger. The day menu is ever so slightly elevated lunch—think salmon toast, Heart coffee, and prosciuttoand-brie sandwiches. After dark, enjoy the best of both worlds with a Nordic Mocha (espresso and aquavit).

THE 1905

830 N Shaver St., 503-460-3333, the1905.org.

Both a jazz club and a pizzeria, the 1905 boasts a truffle pizza that’s almost too good to eat. Look forward to sweet, dulcet tones of jazz performers nightly and a robust selection of craft cocktails. It also hosts the occasional late-night dance party.

PROST!

3845 N Mississippi Ave., 480-369-4712, jorycoffee.com.

SHOP PAXTON GATE

4204 N Mississippi Ave., 503-719-4508, paxtongate.com.

This thriving curios shop—described by Time Out London as “Martha Stewart meets David Lynch”—is inimitable proof that Portland retains a population of devoutly proud weirdos. The 1,200-square-foot space is decked out in neo-Victorian curiosities and a taxidermy jungle. Get your inner witch or warlock on among the carnivorous plants and zoological jewelry.

BABYLON VINTAGE

3636 N Mississippi Ave., babylonvintage.com.

Get yourself some seriously cute vintage duds with an old Hollywood feel here. Cute leather jackets chill alongside vintage plaid shirts, colorful retro dresses and—if you look hard enough—a Budweiser bra.

TANNER GOODS

4719 N Albina Ave., 503-222-2774, tannergoods.com.

Every manner of high-quality leather good imaginable sits in the well-lit, wooden interiors of this 2,600-square-foot space. Here you’ll find guitar straps, belts and bags, as well as ceramics crafted by local artists. Time to finally throw out that ancient wallet once and for all.

THE MEADOW

3731 N Mississippi Ave., 503-974-8349, themeadow.com.

Among the endless bric-a-brac on Mississippi, this haven is devoted to fancy chocolates and salts. Look up at a wall and find yourself surrounded by artisanal chocolates from every corner of the globe. Another wall is stocked with glittering hunks of Himalayan cooking salt, and every type of infusedmixture and fine finishing salt in between.

GO CITIZEN

3636 N Mississippi Ave., mediamakingchange.org/ citizen.

The Citizen community space is a nonprofit devoted to showcasing media with the aim of inspiring social change. This headquarters features a cafe operated in partnership with P:ear barista school, a mentorship and job training program for homeless youth. Film screenings, classes and dinners are also held at this space, all included with a $10 annual membership fee.

PISTILS NURSERY

3811 N Mississippi Ave., Suite 1, 503-288-4889, pistilsnursery.com.

Plants and succulents peek out of the corners of this nursery and vintage space. Wander past the rows of seeds and starts, through the large outdoor greenhouse area, and you’ll encounter locally made ceramic planters of every size and shape, plus botanical potions in the apothecary section that will make your inner witch beam with pride.

MISSISSIPPI STUDIOS AND BAR BAR 3939 N Mississippi Ave., 503-288-3895, mississippistudios.com.

What’s known today as one of the city’s most prominent music venues was once a Baptist church before being converted into a recording studio. It’s an intimate, dark and grungy hole for you to headbang, shuffle or dance the night away. Bar Bar’s adjacent covered patio is a smoker’s paradise armed with very good burgers, brews and fire pits.

OVERLOOK PARK 1599 N Fremont St.

You’d never guess there’d be an 11-acre park roaming these parts, but lo and behold. The city provides. This gorgeous, green stretch of grassy knoll is perfect for pups looking to stretch their legs leash-free and for humans who enjoy panoramic views of the city. There isn’t much parking nearby, though, so it’s best to take the MAX.

4237 N Mississippi Ave., 503-954-2674, prostportland.com.

When a woman loves a pretzel, chances are she’ll want a beer to go with it. It’s a smart woman (or man) who heads here for both. With a generous patio and adjacent food carts, Portland’s very own German beer hall is a sheer delight. And, of course, sauerkraut, sausages and pretzels for all.

PISTILS NURSERY FINDER 2018 | Sam Gehrke

LOWER NORTH PORTLAND

OVERLOOK/ I N T E R S TAT E DON’T LET A DRIVE-BY FOOL YOU. There’s a lot more to this neighborhood than the initially dilapidated impression. Even the desolate corners provide ambience for sidewalk comradery among bargoers and smokers. Beloved watering holes like the Alibi have always kept and will always keep everyone else visiting this neighborhood, with a promise of laid-back beer, karaoke and debauchery. It wasn’t long ago that David Byrne stopped by to do a Prince number. But this neighborhood, spotted with transient camps and partially built apartment foundations, is also home to a sun-kissed view from the Skidmore Bluffs, where you can see the whole westside in the most flattering of light. THE ALIBI | Rosie Struve

EAT PINKY’S PIZZA

3990 N Interstate Ave., 503-288-4453, pinkyspizzeria.com. Dinner Wednesday-Sunday.

Across the street from the iconic Alibi is an art gallery that also happens to serve woodfired pies, including gluten-free options. Those pies are available in 10-inch (“mono”) and 14-inch (“stereo”) sizes covered with fancy toppings like bonito and valencia almonds. $-$$.

must

EISENHOWER BAGELHOUSE

4350 N Interstate Ave., 503-288-5376, bagelhousepdx.com.

Thomas Teal

FIRE ON THE MOUNTAIN

BRODER NORD

The free-range chicken is fried in trans fatfree oil—which might make you feel a tiny bit better after up to 250 wings in one sitting. That’s right. It’s $230. There are more than 11 tasty sauces for dunking, plus featured sauces each month—as well as lots of beer, deep-fried desserts and a patio. $-$$.

Valkommen! This is the land of traditional Nordic fare: Ebleskivers (Danish pancakes) are fluffy, and “coffee break” goes by “fika.” Broder Nord is an all-day Scandinavian-inspired breakfast space—a cozy nook for washing down your eggs and sausage with a shot of spicy aquavit. $$.

What began as a small operation in Pinky’s Pizza back in 2013 has morphed into its very own space thanks to the help of nearly $19,000 from a fundraising campaign. Today, you can enjoy Eisenhower’s signature bagel (probably the Lox, topped with dill, red onion, cream cheese and capers), with a cup of Obsidian coffee. $.

4225 N Interstate Ave., 503-280-9464, portlandwings.com. Lunch-late Tuesday-Sunday.

LOWER NORTH PORTLAND

2240 N Interstate Ave., No.160, 503-282-5555, broderpdx.com. Breakfast and lunch Monday-Sunday.

TILT 3449 N Anchor St., Suite 200, 503-285-8458, tiltitup.com. Lunch and dinner Monday-Friday, brunch-dinner SaturdaySunday. Tilt’s flashy Pearl District location does not do the blue-collar-inspired menu of two-handed burgers, sandwiches and rib-sticking baked goods justice. This original location in the middle of Swan Island’s industrial sprawl does, with an ambience not unlike an office cafeteria, with simple plastic chairs and long, shared tables. You can’t go wrong with the Freebird fried chicken sandwich ($9) and a pie shake (one scoop of vanilla ice cream and one slice of pie, blended to perfection for $8). $.

WILL AMETTE WEEK

DRINK THE ALIBI

4024 N Interstate Ave., 503-287-5335. alibiportland.com.

Since 1947, The Alibi is the ultimate tiki/ karaoke bar without pretension but with the correct dose of kitsch—blissfully dark and window-free to allow for maximum debauchery during karaoke. Come on a Sunday night and you’ll be met with a raucous den of Portlanders hooting and howling as they try to belt out another unbearable version of “Endless Love” while sipping something called a Banana Hammock.

PATTON MARYLAND

5101 N Interstate Ave., 503-841-6176, pattonmaryland.com.

The drinks bring everyone to Patton’s patio, which seems to fill up at the first inkling of sunshine. It’s a laid-back pub fused with a Southern saloon, with craft cocktails like a Champagne Julep alongside bolder pairings like the Strawberry Pepper Margarita.

UNTAPPED

4320 N Interstate Ave., 503-206-4830, untappedpdx.com.

Within the heart of this industrial jungle is a craft beer house filled with 36 drafts on tap brewed up and down the West Coast. Cider and kombucha, too. This is where you come to get that dusty growler filled before heading out on a hike or float down the river. Be sure to bring your own grub, as only bar snacks are to be found here.

SHOP

BEAM AND ANCHOR

PENINSULA PARK

2710 N Interstate Ave., 503-367-3230, beamandanchor.com.

A 7,000-square-foot creative’s wet dream. Downstairs you’ll encounter 20th-century Americana like hand-sewn blankets, vintage scarves, delicately crafted jewelry, even dreamcatchers—all made by locals. Upstairs doubles as a studio for local craftsfolk and artists.

AK STUDIO

687 N Tillamook St., Suite B, akstudio.co.

Jewelry maker Anna Korte has been creating whimsical jewelry and dangly home décor since 2008. Her space looks like nothing if not your most glamorous BFF’s house: simple yet chic, with necklaces, dreamcatchers and various glints of light draped across the gently whitewashed space. Korte’s metallic mobiles are like jewelry for your living room.

LOWELL

819 N Russell St., 503-753-3608, lowellportland.com. Closed Monday-Tuesday.

A miniature Southwestern retreat, Lowell specializes in one-of-a-kind items unavailable anywhere else in Portland: ceramic pieces made by one of the owners, Dino; racks of vintage clothes; remarkable Janus sand ruby rings by Natasha Ghosn; and artifacts like hand-carved animal sculptures and Mojave-inspired throw rugs.

700 N Rosa Parks Way.

Few inner-city parks are as beautiful as Peninsula Park in the spring. The mazelike structure has its own private pathway leading to a fountain surrounded by an expansive rose garden. Very My Fair Lady, plus your pup can stretch her legs off the leash.

WHITE EAGLE SALOON

836 N Russell St., 503-282-6810, mcmenamins.com.

This is your classic saloon, with an old-timey Western-meets-modern gypsy vibe. First established as a hub for Polish immigrants, this classic saloon has hosted live performances nightly for more than a hundred years. Watch a band play some bluegrass and, later in the evening, head upstairs to the totally nothaunted hotel (it’s screamingly affordable) to blissfully pass out. BLOOMING MOON WELLNESS SPA

1417 N Shaver St., 971-279-2757, bloomingmoonspa.com.

I found great skin care in a hopeless place, which is to say I walked into Blooming Moon and got myself a manicure, pedicure, massage and facial for a price that didn’t make my purse weep. I especially appreciate the fact that Blooming Moon uses crueltyfree products and offers all-natural alternatives. Lie back, relax and pick up some natural, locally made Alima Pure cosmetics on your way out. You’re in good hands here.

STORMBREAKER BREWING

832 N Beech St., 971-703-4516, stormbreakerbrewing.com.

Patiogoers, rejoice! Beneath the large, covered seating area sit open fireplaces, made cozier with a Cloud Ripper IPA and a thick, stacked Juicy Lucy burger. Happy hour draws great crowds with a $5 soft pretzel and accompanying liquid gold beer cheese.

GEORGE’S CORNER TAVERN 5501 N Interstate Ave., 503-289-0307.

This is your friendly neighborhood dive bar, replete with fried chicken, jojos and every manner of TV program playing simultaneously. Only this one’s the best dive bar around. Take a seat on the back patio, drink $3 rum and Cokes, and repeat all night long.

WIDMER BROTHERS BREWERY PUB

955 N Russell St., 503-281-2437, widmerbrothers.com.

A comfortable gastropub taken for granted by way too many Portlanders. Inside you’ll find 24 beers on tap—all brewed next door, from classics like America’s most popular hefeweizen to more adventurous flavors like a Figure Four Pretzel Bier made with actual pretzels. Stop by on a Monday and get any six-pack to go for $6.

BEAM AND ANCHOR | Matt Wong

FINDER 2018

LOWER NORTH PORTLAND

PENINSULAR NORTH PORTLAND

HERE WAS A TIME WHEN MOVING TO DEEP North Portland was considered an act of defiance—a gesture that registered somewhere between a gratified shrug and a middle finger toward the cartoonish antics of Portlandia. How Inner Portlanders began the migration to our city’s final frontier is now immaterial: Anyone in the market for a bungalow between Lombard and Columbia Boulevard knows the party ended before they even showed up. Still, the Old Portland-ness of Peninsular NoPo continues to serve as an effective bulwark against the churn of New Portland. You’re never more than a few blocks from a zombie RV or a boat caked in moss, and Roosevelt High School remains the most diverse branch of the Portland Public Schools system. Lombard may now be home to a New Seasons, but it’s still Portland’s most celebrated main drag for dimly lit dives where no one cares about the time of day. In short, there’s comfort in knowing a few hermetic bubbles of quasi-suburban charm still exist in a city that’s more interconnected than ever.

BY PETE COTTELL Born and raised in Akron, Ohio, I moved here in May 2013. I spent my first year living in a van, and wrote about the experience in my Association of Alternative Newsweeklies award-winning column Vanifest Destiny. I stumbled upon Buckman by accident and have lived here ever since, but Portsmouth and St. Johns are my homes away from home. I spend any time I can eating tacos at Tienda Santa Cruz and enjoying a beer by the wood-burning stoves at St. Johns Beer Porch.

NEIGHBORHOOD NOTES The city of Vanport (pop. 40,000) sat on low-lying land diked by Denver Avenue and the Columbia Slough to the south, until—without any warning from the city of Portland—a flood in May 1948 covered the city like Atlantis. Records state 39 people died, but many former Vanport residents and older Portlanders assert the death count was in the hundreds. In the 1972 film Kansas City Bomber, Raquel Welch plays a single mom starting a new chapter on the Portland Loggers, a roller derby team. In addition to shooting at Portland’s roller derby rink, some bar scenes were shot in the Kenton Club, page 74.

KELLEY POINT PARK | Henry Cromett

THE PICKS WHERE TO GRAB A CUP OF JOE, BUY WEED, WALK YOUR POOCH, AND PICK UP GROCERIES.

CATHEDRAL COFFEE 7530 N Willamette Blvd. 503-935-4312 cathedralcoffee.com

PORTLAND POT SHOP 4730 N Lombard St. 844-473-9732 theportlandpotshop.com

KENTON PARK 8417 N Brandon Ave. 503-823-2525

WESTERN MEAT MARKET 4707 N Lombard St. 503-283-5174 westernmeatmarket.net

S T. J O H N S THINGS MOVE SLOW IN ST. JOHNS. Real slow. Speed limits in Portland’s sleepy northwestern corner rarely exceed 25; you’d be hard-pressed to find anyone going that fast anyway. The churn of development has finally touched down in its historic “downtown,” but the number of old haunts filled with day-drunk retirees and service industry types still far exceeds the number of mixed-use buildings with names like the Chadwick or Cathedral East. In a way, the mellow pace and Portlandy Everytown feel of St. Johns is the platonic ideal of what most expect to find upon arriving in the Rose City. If you’ve longed for a part of town filled with farmers markets, cozy cafes and neighborly vibes—and without the hourlong brunch lines and traffic jams—St. Johns may be just what you’re looking for.

CATHEDRAL PARK | Roger Bong

EAT DUB’S ST. JOHNS

OCCIDENTAL WURSTHAUS

Don’t let the white tablecloth at Dub’s brand-new brick-and-mortar throw you off. This is hearty, blue-collar comfort food through and through. After tragedy befell Dub’s original location in the form of an arson fire in 2012, chef William “Dub” Travis III went solo with his famous chicken and waffles this past winter. If there’s any one person to trust for authentic soul, it has to be a St. Johns native who founded a stoner rap ensemble called Mack & Dub and the Smokin Section. $.

German breweries with Pacific Northwest sensibilities are enjoying a field day in Portland, but all that Kölsch and altbier may as well be water if you’re not using it to wash down currywurst and a plate of frites. You’ll find all of the above at Occidental Wursthaus, a wide-open warehouse of a space that tempers industrial chic with unbeatable views of Cathedral Park and the St. Johns Bridge. $.

8537 N Lombard St., 503-998-8230, dubstjohns.com. Lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday.

TIENDA SANTA CRUZ

8630 N Lombard St., 503-286-7302, tiendasantacruz.com. Breakfast-dinner daily.

If you don’t get your taco fix in the back of a Hispanic grocery with pinatas dangling from every bit of ceiling space, you’re definitely doing it wrong. Many folks’ first visit to St. Johns involves a quest for the legendary barbacoa and asada tacos at Tienda Santa Cruz. So consider this sacred rite of taco passage the beginning of the rest of your blessed taco-eating days in Portland. $.

6635 N Baltimore Ave., Suite 201, 503-286-3688, occidentalbrewing.com. Lunch and dinner daily.

HOMEGROWN SMOKER

must

CATHEDRAL PARK North Edison Street and Pittsburgh Avenue. With its gentle slope, riverfront location and unbeatable view of the cathedral arches propping up the iconic St. Johns Bridge, Cathedral Park may be the most photogenic park in Portland. The park’s national profile rose considerably in 2015 when it offered a theatrical view of Greenpeace activists dangling from the bridge to protest the passage of a Royal Dutch Shell icebreaker vessel waylaid from oil-drilling operations in the Arctic—but you won’t find much commotion these days, aside from a free jazz festival in July or the occasional LARP session gone wild. It’s the terminally chill backyard of North Portland’s most mellow neighborhood.

8638 N Lombard St., 503-477-7274, homegrownsmoker.com. Lunch and dinner WednesdaySunday.

Given Southern soul food’s carnivorous excess, it’s surprising how well it works when the animal products are removed entirely. Exhibit A is Homegrown Smoker’s Macnocheeto burrito, a hulking cylinder of smoked soy curls, tempeh bacon and tangy NoCheese macaroni, the last of which will make a believer of the staunchest of dairybased mac-and-cheese supporters. $.

MAMA SAN SOUL SHACK

8037 N Lombard St., 503-719-4288, mamasansoulshack.com. Lunch and dinner daily.

According to these folks, the culinary traditions of the South—in this case Korea and the USA—have more in common than you’d think. This collision of flavors manifests itself in sweet and smoky ways, with curry mac ’n’ cheese, hush puppies and barbecue chicken bowls adorned with kimchi and collard greens serving as the cornerstones of a menu that’s as expansive as it is delightfully schizophrenic. $$. FINDER 2018

OCCIDENTAL WURSTHAUS | Thomas Teal

PENINSULAR NORTH PORTLAND

DRINK

SHOP

GARRISON TAP ROOM

BLUE MOON CAMERA

The mixed-use development that houses Royale Brewing’s taproom—as well as the 24th and Meatballs offshoot, 87th and Meatballs, and the second incarnation of beloved vegan Indian spot the Sudra—is unlike anything St. Johns has seen. But the casual nature of the building paired with Royale’s fantastic offering of malty, hoppy goodness, compose a welcome addition to the neighborhood.

A one-stop-shop for those who prefer the analog nuance of film cameras and typewriters. Blue Moon Camera’s website is updated frequently with offbeat items in stock, as well as a form to fill out if you seek a rare piece of photo gear. Even if the final product will be digitized, it’s a great place to begin the journey of making art with machines modern society is leaving behind.

8773 N Lombard St., 971-279-5587, royalebrewing.com. Closed Monday-Tuesday.

TWO STROKE COFFEE CO.

8962 N Lombard St., 503-954-2339, 2strokecoffee.com.

Resembling See See Motor Coffee’s sassy little brother, Two Stroke offers enthusiasts a place to slam a shot of espresso before tackling the wild backroads of St. Johns’ periphery. The rustic wood details and plentiful table space in the loft can make it a great place to crack open a book, but expect to be stirred by the occasional sound of a moped firing up.

8417 N Lombard St., 503-978-0333, bluemooncamera. com. Closed Sunday.

VINYL RESTING PLACE

8332 N Lombard St., 503-247-9573, vinylrestingplaceusa.com. Closed Monday and Tuesday.

With a Facebook feed devoted mostly to obituaries of fallen rock-and-roll heroes, you could conclude this tiny vinyl shop on the edge of downtown St. Johns is more a morgue for music than a full-fledged record store. Regardless, you’ll find excellent deals on classic jazz, R&B, soul and rock records—with the bulk of goods priced well under $10.

ST. JOHNS COFFEE ROASTERS

7304 N Leavitt Ave., 503-445-2249, stjohnscoffee.com.

This twee little third-wave shop offers all the adornments of a big-time operation without the slick and antiseptic feel of a New Portland spot that’s trying very hard. Whether you’re in the market for a quick cup of coffee, an Aeropress or Chemex, or eco-conscious beans available via the discounted subscription program, St. Johns Coffee Roasters is a suitable one-stop shop for most coffee connoisseurs.

SLIM’S

8635 N Lombard St., 503-286-3854.

On a road that’s home to many dive bars, Slim’s might be the most popular on account of its mingling of new and old. Home to cheap breakfast and even cheaper PBR, you’re just as likely to find a solid craft beer selection and a DJ every now and then when the vibe ratchets up from a lazy daydrinking establishment to that of a proper weekend spot.

PENINSULAR NORTH PORTLAND

WILL AMETTE WEEK

GO THE FIXIN’ TO

8218 N Lombard St., 503-477-4995, thefixinto.com.

Since converting the back patio to a live music venue complete with arcade games, a small bar and sound treatment that’s certain to impress music geeks, the Fixin’ To has become a hip home away from home for the vibrant music scene that’s slowly being pried out of inner Portland. While the band of your favorite bartender from across town kicks out the jams in the next room over, you can’t go wrong with a Frito pie accompanied by a St. Johns Sweet Tea.

ST. JOHNS TWIN CINEMA

8704 N Lombard St., 503-286-1768, stjohnscinema.com.

Like most great neighborhood beer theaters, St. Johns Twin Cinema is a gloriously creeky hole in the wall where the IPA is cold and the AC is damn near freezing. As the name connotes, viewers can choose between two first-run films that usually check the blockbuster and quirky indie film boxes quite nicely.

ST. JOHNS FARMERS MARKET

7340 N Philadelphia Ave., stjohnsopportunity.org. 9 am-2 pm Saturday in summer.

Now in its 10th year in St. Johns Plaza, the St. Johns Farmers Market is a vibrant shopping experience that draws green goods from farms around Sauvie Island and beyond. It’s not uncommon to hear a bluegrass or folk band while perusing the fresh berry selection in the summer, and a handful of seasonal events like a cobbler showdown and a chili cook-off make it well worth the trip even if your cupboard is stocked.

THE FIXIN' TO | Thomas Teal

PIER PARK

North Lombard Street and Bruce Avenue.

PIER PARK | Thomas Teal

FINDER 2018

If Tony Hawk’s Pro Skater returned to Portland, the massive concrete pipe in the middle of Pier Park’s rarely crowded skatepark would make a fantastic bonus level. It’s the perfect place for brisk walks in the damp and misty in-between seasons of the year, and the disc golf course has an eerie end-of-the-earth feel at dusk. PENINSULAR NORTH PORTLAND

PORTSMOUTH THE POPULATION OF PORTSMOUTH has long been buoyed by University of Portland students and faculty, but young families are now flocking to the area in droves to enjoy its quiet residential streets, peaceful neighborhood parks and relative isolation from the hubbub of inner Portland. A person teleported to the section of Portsmouth closest to the bend in Willamette Boulevard could easily mistake the area as the backdrop for a Leave It to Beaver-style sitcom, but closer to Lombard Street it’s apparent there’s still plenty of Portland in its DNA.

FISH WIFE | CJ Monserrat

EAT

DRINK

THE FISHWIFE

LEISURE PUBLIC HOUSE

5328 N Lombard St., 503-285-7150, fishwiferestaurant.com. Lunch and dinner TuesdayFriday, dinner Saturday.

Its name brings to mind images of tragic Samuel Taylor Coleridge poems, but there’s nothing doomed or ominous about the spread of fresh catch from the Pacific Northwest that makes the Fishwife so remarkable. Alaskan halibut and Willapa Bay oysters are great reasons for a first visit, and the blackened cod sandwich is a classic that’s well worth a return when the craving hits. $$-$$$.

ROSE CITY TAQUERIA

7007 N Fessenden St., 503-247-3333. Breakfastdinner daily.

With an abundance of cheap and fast Mexican staples, it’s no surprise this bright orange taqueria is constantly busy despite being tucked away a few blocks off Lombard. A near-constant churn of college kids and blue-collar types from nearby Columbia Boulevard means very few items are left to sit, creating the perfect conditions for carnitas, el pastor and asada that are always served piping hot and at peak freshness. $.

8002 N Lombard St., 503-289-7606, leisurepublichouse.com.

Fitting its namesake, Leisure Public House has more in common with a mellow shindig at the home of a friendly stranger than the many dive bars nearby. It’s a place for a long day of relaxed drinking, with a faint sliver of sunlight peeking through the outdoor patio that also houses a bocce ball court, pingpong and a sizable covered area for a quick smoke between rounds.

TWILIGHT ROOM

5242 N Lombard St., 503-283-5091, thetwilightroom.com.

Known as the “T Room” by the University of Portland students who frequent it almost religiously, Twilight Room is one of the few collegiate bars in Portland that doesn’t alienate anyone over the age of 22. The tap list is impressive for a place that also does swift novelty shot business on the weekends. And don’t forget the wonderful turkey, bacon and ranch melt—if you’re able to suspend the ranch allergy you inherited the day you finished undergrad.

must

LOMBARD HOUSE 7337 N Lombard St., 503-539539-5889. Closed Monday. It’s fitting that Portsmouth’s best beer bar is a converted bungalow across the street from a farmers market. Inside you’ll find 10 taps curated by Brian Koch, who treats the bar like his living room and the patrons like new friends. Koch highlights the best from underappreciated breweries like Occidental and Widmer, new finds like Yakima’s Bale Breaker or Bellingham’s Chuckanut—not to mention world-beating hazy IPAs. If the beer doesn’t sell you, poke your head outside and check out one of Lombard Street’s most chill patios.

OVER EASY BAR & LAZY DAY KITCHEN

6801 N Columbia Way, 503-286-2484, overeasybar.com. Breakfast-dinner daily.

Formerly known as the Six Point Inn, Over Easy Bar and Breakfast had to suffer at the hands of Bar Rescue’s Jon Taffer before the hoopla finally died down enough to just let the place be. What’s left is a well-kept dive bar that serves up underpriced pints of craft beer, heaping plates of pork and eggs, and country fried steak with gravy that’s something of a local legend. $.

Christine Dong

PENINSULAR NORTH PORTLAND

WILL AMETTE WEEK

SHOP 3 TRACKS MUSIC

7429 N Lombard St., 503-847-7756, 3tracksmusic.com. Closed Sunday-Monday.

Many boutique music shops focus on gear first and service second, but owner Keith Kurczewski’s background as a luthier for National Reso-Phonic Guitars means you’re in exactly the right place. With a small selection of effects from locals like Catalinbread and Bomes Electric, and rare guitars from brands like Teisco, Harmony and Silvertone, it’s the kind of place you could imagine Jack White getting into.

GO ST. JOHNS MARKETPLACE & FOOD POD 7316 N Lombard St., 503-289-2535.

The activity of this food cart pod has swiftly overtaken what remains one of the peninsula’s best places to cop fresh produce. Comfort food like the Chowdah’s piping hot bread bowls of chowder or the biscuits and gravy at Paiku go down particularly well when near the wood-burning stoves at the Beer Porch.

COLUMBIA PARK & ANNEX 4503 N Lombard St.

Thanks to the ubiquity of the Twilight series, it’s hard to take an evening stroll through the mist-lined conifers of Columbia Park and not imagine teenage vampire romance unfolding under the glow of the lamps that line its zigzagging walkways. If a fairy tale wedding is what you seek, sign up early to reserve the photogenic event space where the dusk light breaks through the park’s evergreen canopy.

ANNARES INFOSHOP

7101 N Lombard St., facebook.com/pg/anarresinfoshop.

Allegedly described by the late novelist Ursula K. Le Guin as a “dreamy, tender anarchist space,” Annares Infoshop is one of few remaining places in Portland with a high enough profile and strong enough ethics to attract international touring bands while keeping things completely DIY. All-ages EDM festivals commingle with anarchist workshops, showing there still may be hope for the future of collaborative art here in Portland.

NORTH PORTLAND EAGLES LODGE 7611 N Exeter Ave., 503-286-8788.

For those who’ve driven past the North Portland Eagles Lodge and pondered the redundancy of Blue Collar Wrestling event posters, do yourself a favor: Satisfy your curiosity. When you find yourself smiling ear to ear while a guy who’s shirtless under Carhartt overalls body slams a guy sporting a Bluetooth earpiece, a tank top and the last remaining pair of original JNCO jeans in existence, you’ll thank yourself.

FINDER 2018

PENINSULAR NORTH PORTLAND

KENTON DESPITE THE SLOW CREEP of development finally reaching Kenton, the area near the iconic Paul Bunyan statue still says it all. As the MAX Yellow Line rumbles past, roughnecks from near and far trickle in and out of Dancin’ Bare, a nudie bar that ownership bills as Portland’s “premier bluecollar strip club.” Behind it is Bridgetown Forge, and in the other direction is a pair of fresh new apartment developments that could easily be found in neighborhoods like Richmond or Buckman. If there’s one thing Kenton will always have, it’s access—to the city via light rail, to the splendor of the Columbia just to the north, and to the many manufacturing and industrial jobs that line its shores. It may not stay this way forever, but it endures as a reminder of Portland’s overlooked working-class past…until that, too, is swept away with the times.

EAT

must

CJ Monserrat

PO’SHINES CAFE DE LA SOUL

8139 N Denver Ave., 503-978-9000, poshines.com. Breakfast and lunch Monday, breakfast-dinner TuesdaySaturday.

It seems everyone with an opinion and a mouth thinks they know where the best soul food can be found in Portland. If those people don’t at least acknowledge Po’Shines’ brisket or catfish, there’s a good chance they can’t be trusted. Originally started by the Celebration Tabernacle church as a means of employing disadvantaged youth and teaching them to cook, Po’Shines is now a Kenton institution. $.

SWIFT AND UNION

8103 N Denver Ave., 503-206-4281, swiftandunion.com. Lunch and dinner daily, brunch weekends.

Despite the uptick in condo dwellers, Kenton still feels like the kind of place that has room for just one gastropub. Swift and Union is that place. With a stylish retro interior and a menu focused on classic cuts of meat prepared in fantastically modern ways, head here after a long day for beef and a cocktail you’d get dirty looks for ordering in a nearby dive bar. $-$$.

POSIES BAKERY & CAFE

8208 N Denver Ave., 503-289-1319, posiescafe.com. Breakfast-late afternoon daily.

Before writing off Posies as yet another place filled with millennials attending to laptops and avocado toast, take in the impressive spread of fresh baked goods and hearty breakfast items. Order a cappuccino or a shot of espresso, stake out a table, then immediately head back to the counter to order the avocado toast, which is popular for a very good reason. If you can’t beat them, join them. $.

PENINSULAR NORTH PORTLAND

DRINK GEORGE’S DANCIN’ BARE 8440 N Interstate Ave., 503-285-9073, georgesdancinbare.com.

Dancin’ Bare is one of those perfect strip clubs where most patrons have a panoramic view from almost any seat in the house. That view includes an impressive selection of macrobrew memorabilia, which includes everything from Coors Light neon to decorative car hoods adorned with beer slogans and hood pins.

WORLD FAMOUS KENTON CLUB 2025 N Kilpatrick Ave., 503-2853718, kentonclub.com. Since adding “World Famous” to its name after being featured in the 1972 Raquel Welch flick Kansas City Bomber, Kenton Club has been a boozy bastion of cheap beer and loud music for weirdos sick of close-in Portland’s shit. The tap list has evolved, and the cover charges have gone from none to around $5 in the past few years, but it’s still one of the most punk-as-fuck venues in town on account of its lack of trying to be anything but itself.

PARKSIDE

2135 N Willis Blvd., 503-719-6826, portlandparkside.com.

Please understand: This quaint little craft beer and cocktail spot isn’t necessarily encouraging customers to drink in nearby Kenton Park. Nah—it provides a handful of yard games for customers to take over there, because it’s just that kind of place. The food menu is a small but enticing curation of sandwiches and mac ’n’ cheese, which serves as a perfect complement to the friendly neighborhood vibes.

PRINCE COFFEE

2030 N Willis Blvd., princecoffeepdx.com.

This bright and cheery third-wave shop brokers mostly coffee from local roasters like Heart and Coava, but the real draw is housemade stroopwafels. A popular treat in the Netherlands, the confection is made of two wafer cookies sandwiching a caramel interior.

PONDEROSA LOUNGE

0350 N Vancouver Way, 503-345-0300, jubitz.com/ponderosa-lounge-country-bar.

Since abandoning its arcade and going all in on its honky-tonk roots, the roadhousestyle bar at this massive truckers’ paradise is now better than before. It’s the kind of place where line dancing is done unironically, and the beer is of the bubbly yellow variety. It’s a far cry from the hipster haunts of Portland proper, which is exactly what makes it special. WILL AMETTE WEEK

SHOP

MANTEL

DISJECTA

Somewhat of an outlier for the area, Mantel is the kind of place where aspiring interior decorators poach an idea or two before venturing into a world of understated eccentricity. Boutique names like Sandbox Ceramics and Bobbie Specker live alongside bags from Orox Leather and the Good Flock——resulting in a space that’s hypermodern and poised to impress the design-minded.

Nonprofit art space Disjecta has long been a steady hand in Portland’s art scene, featuring a different curator of its 3,500 square feet each season and also running the Portland Biennial, one of the city’s largest showcases of regional art talent. In addition to art exhibits, Disjecta hosts events that have recently included an acroyoga workshop, a Beyoncé tribute, and an acoustic performance by art-pop violin prodigy Kishi Bashi.

8202 N Denver Ave., 503-289-0558, mantelpdx.com.

GIVE AND TAKE RESALE

8128 N Denver Ave., 503-954-2221, giveandtakeresale.com. Closed Friday, Sunday and Monday.

Give and Take knows one person’s hand-medown is another’s new look. Bring clothes to sell, shop for something new to you, and receive 40 percent same-day store credit for all trade. You can even leave some of that credit on file if you’d like to use the rest of it on your next trip.

8371 N Interstate Ave. 503-286-9449, disjecta.org.

SALVAGE WORKS

2024 N Argyle St., 503-899-0052, salvageworkspdx.com.

Due to its proximity to U.S. 30 and I-5, Kenton has seen quite a bit of building materials come and go in the past century. Salvage Works specializes in reclaimed oldgrowth lumber, which is both a budget- and eco-conscious way to kick off your next building project, assuming it requires a more authentic product than what the lumberyard at Home Depot or Lowe’s can offer.

PORTLAND INTERNATIONAL RACEWAY

1940 N Victory Blvd., 503-823-7223, portlandraceway.com.

Home to weekly drag racing events as well as the Rose Cup and the Grand Prix of Portland, Portland International Raceway has branched out in recent years to host outdoor food and music events like Sabroso Taco Festival and a yearly Cinco de Mayo event, as well as an annual Christmas lights cruisein that’s popular among revelers of all ages.

NEW COLUMBIA BICYCLE SKILLS PARK North Trenton Street and Woolsey Avenue.

Owned and operated by community housing assistance program Home Forward, the New Columbia Bicycle Skills Park is like a mini BMX park with a focus on practical urban applications. Riders learn the safe way to negotiate an assortment of terrain they’re likely to find throughout the city—while volunteers for the Bike Repair Hub provide maintenance lessons.

Courtesy of Portland International Raceway

FINDER 2018

PENINSULAR NORTH PORTLAND

ALBERTA ARTS DISTRICT

N THE ALBERTA ARTS DISTRICT, gentrification dons Ray-Bans and paint-splattered overalls. Like other high-density parts of town, you’re never far from mini-chain ramen and Little Big Burgers. But you won’t yet find Lego-stacked new apartment buildings with more vacancy signs than longtime residents. Historic home leveling just south of Northeast Alberta Street—thanks to the Vanport Flood in the late ’40s and development of the Memorial Coliseum and Emanuel Hospital through to the ’70s—forced what were majority-black homeowners to relocate, many to this district. Many note this prompted redlining—with lenders refusing to give mortgages to the area’s new black residents. Eventual public and private infusions of “neighborhood development” funds laid the ground for today’s Art District definer. (Archived Oregonian articles show the phrase first appearing in 1999.) The era of Alberta’s redefinition continues today. A vibrant and creative aesthetic shapes the area’s new and storied establishments—at least for as long as property remains affordable to the city’s fringe artists and creators.

BY ELISE HERRON I grew up in the tiny hamlet that is Sisters, Ore.—where, yes, there is a city ordinance that all businesses be Western-themed. After travels to Central America and New Zealand, I landed back in the “big city” to finish college. When I’m not writing or devouring El Nutri Taco tacos, you can find me paddleboarding on the Willamette or playing alchemist in the kitchen. NEIGHBORHOOD NOTES Roslyn Hill, aka "The Queen of Alberta," is an Albina native who led the street’s change from crime-riddled stretch to cultural hub in 1993. She fixed up a dozen buildings throughout the ’90s that would become homes to Tin Shed, Alberta Street Co-op and the Bye and Bye. After being denied for a small business loan in the 1950s, Floyd Booker found a white man to impersonate him with the same business proposal. Booker was granted a loan, and his family has owned and operated Courtesy Janitorial Services (1705 NE Alberta St.) ever since.

NE ALBERTA AT 15TH, LOOKING EAST, 1954 | Courtesy of City of Portland Archives

THE PICKS WHERE TO GRAB A CUP OF JOE, BUY WEED, WALK YOUR POOCH, AND PICK UP GROCERIES.

WOODLAWN COFFEE 808 NE Dekum St. 503-954-2412 woodlawncoffee.com

GREEN HOP 5515 NE 16th Ave. 971-301-5859 gogreenhop.com

FERNHILL PARK NE 37th Ave. and Ainsworth St.

ALBERTA STREET CO-OP 1500 NE Alberta St. 503-287-4333 alberta.coop

Kayla Sprint

A L B E R TA STAND ALMOST ANYWHERE on Alberta Street and an eye-grabbing mural lies in view. Last Thursday art walks—which started two decades ago and are now a summer phenomenon—funnel hundreds through the block’s art galleries, bespoke retail shops and laid-back bars. The neighborhood’s bold aesthetic is palpable. But make no mistake: There’s just as much new development here as in the rest of Portland. The difference on Alberta? Transplant establishments—be they taprooms or Aussie-owned breakfast spots—are expertly tailored to fit the street’s artistic mold.

EAT DOLICIOUS

POK POK NOI

Follow the bright yellow, bull’s eye-inspired beacon affixed to this small Vietnamese cart to find substantial portions served at small prices. A perfectly spicy, meat and crunchy veggie-packed bahn mi and spring roll with a side of sweet and savory peanut sauce costs just over $10 and will more than fuel a long day of arts district shopping. $.

If you haven’t already heard about the cult following behind Pok Pok’s fish sauce fried chicken wings then you’re within your first week of living in Portland. The hype of this string of winged eateries may seem hard to live up to, but the wings here consistently do the trick. Pair an order of six (dare to ask for spicy) with a refreshing drinking vinegar-infused cocktail for a perfect summer meal on the back patio. $$.

1505 NE Alberta St., 503-927-6060. Lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday.

EL NUTRI TACO

2124 NE Alberta St., 503-473-8447. elnutritacopdx.com. Lunch and dinner daily.

Don’t be fooled by the large veggie display on the sandwich board out in front of El Nutri Taco’s spacious front patio—the restaurant’s succulent carnitas are some of the best in Northeast Portland. Two no-frills, meat and grilled onion-filled tacos are just $3.50. Topped with housemade verde salsa, they’re hard not to devour instantly. $.

ALBERTA STREET MARKET

909 NE Alberta St., 503-282-2169. Breakfast-dinner daily.

Here’s the thing: This unassuming convenience store serves unequivocally the best jojos in Portland. For $5, get three pieces of deliciously crunchy, salty yet sweet fried chicken with a side of the spice-shaken potato wedges. Dip everything in the packet of ranch provided and wait to wipe the grease off your fingers until you’ve reached the bottom of the bag. $.

1469 NE Prescott St., 503-287-4149, pokpoknoi.com. Lunch and dinner daily.

ZILLA SAKE

1806 NE Alberta St., 503-288-8372, zillasake.com. Dinner daily.

This sushi spot is weird as hell, and it punches well above its weight, landing a spot on Willamette Week’s 50 Best Restaurants list this year. The sake menu, with 90-something options, may be the largest in the nation. Owners Kate Koo and Departure alum Sam Saltos have been gathering contacts in Hokkaido and Hawaii, as well as Tokyo’s Tsukiji Fish Market to net coldgrown scallops of terrifying tenderness and blooming sea urchin that shames the uni elsewhere. $$-$$$.

must

CLARY SAGE HERBARIUM 2841 NE Alberta St., 503-2366737, clarysageherbarium.com. Only marginally larger than a storage closet, Clary Sage manages to cram row after row of herbal remedies on its floorto-ceiling shelves. Women-owned (and mostly -operated) the herb, tincture, tea and essential oil stockroom is fittingly housed in a building bursting with a vibrant floral mural. Inside, sage bundles and obscure dried plants will have you feeling transported to the halls of Professor Trelawney’s divination classroom.

GUMBA

Northeast 23rd Avenue and Alberta Street, 503-9755951. Lunch and dinner Wednesday-Sunday.

This small Italian food cart located in the pod at the southeast corner of 23rd and Alberta has a constantly revolving menu depending on the season and mood. But housemade pasta dishes—like a pappardelle with butter-laden, melt-in-your-mouth short ribs and crispy bread crumbs—are consistently drool-inducing. $$. ZILLA SAKE | Thomas Teal

FINDER 2018

ALBERTA ARTS DISTRICT

VILLEVELO BAKE SHOP

ALBERTA STREET PUB

THE BYE AND BYE

The cheerful, rosy-cheeked baker-owner of this hole-in-the-wall bakery is almost always the only one working—boxing up massive, gooey chocolate chip cookies and savory bacon and tomato quiches for a bevy of regulars. Good luck leaving with just one sweet breakfast treat. $.

Go to this homey neighborhood pub for beer, comfort food and free live music. A rotating 21-tap beer selection showcases some of Oregon’s best craft brews, and the friendly bartenders will leave you feeling like your living room sprouted a bar top. Bands play nearly nightly, and shows often cost little to nothing.

Not just a sultry-lit, punk art-filled bar with excellent cocktails, the Bye and Bye boasts an all-vegan menu that makes it a unique late-night stop for crowds of animalproduct-averse locals. The bar’s Reuben and meatball sub sandwiches so expertly emulate their meat-laden namesakes that even omnivorous eaters are likely to leave satisfied.

1465 NE Prescott St., 503-522-9310, villevelobakeshop.com. Closed Monday and Tuesday.

DRINK 1465 NE Prescott St., 503-954-1104, 1856pdx.com.

1856 is more wine and bottle shop than bar. But its modest patio—three roomy wood benches situated in a semicircle on a Prescott street corner—attracts all the dogowning wine connoisseurs in a multipleblock radius. Uncork a bottle, or mix and match a six-pack from the shop’s wellcurated selection of Oregon craft beers, and find a seat among the “locals”—four-legged furballs vying for your attention.

DISTRICT

1011 NE Alberta St., 503-281-0537, thebyeandbye.com.

LES CAVES

CRUZROOM

Les Caves is not easy to find—which is part of the thrill. A small sidewalk sandwich board alerts passers-by to the bar, which is reached by winding through an alley and down two sets of stairs. Inside, concrete walls and dim lighting make for an overall spelunking-like experience. The small wine list is expertly curated to boot, highlighting local vintners like Ovum and Golden Cluster.

A sweeping, wave-inspired blue and red mural wraps itself around Cruzroom’s outdoor fire pit. Inside, board games line shelves and housemade liquor infusions come served like a Happy Meal, with a frozen plastic dinosaur in the bottom of each glass. Make this the last stop on an Alberta Street bar crawl and end the night with a couple of the bar’s generously heaped tacos.

1719 NE Alberta St., 503-206-6852, lescavespdx.com.

1856

ALBERTA Teal ARTS 78 GREAT NOTION | Thomas

1036 NE Alberta St., 503-284-7665, albertastreetpub.com.

2338 NE Alberta St., 503-208-3483, cruzroom.com.

GREAT NOTION

2204 NE Alberta St., 503-548-4491, greatnotionpdx.com.

Great Notion’s crowlered limited releases are highly sought after among cultish fans and beer traders. Lucky for you, the best stuff you’ll ever taste from the Wonka factory of Oregon ales is at this packed pub space, where papaya sours recall melted fruit juice Popsicles, imperial stouts taste like syrupy pancakes, and myriad hazy hop bombs will blast your mouth so far into the stratosphere you’ll hardly taste the meatpiled waffle fries you’re pairing them with.

WILL AMETTE WEEK

ALBERTA ROSE THEATRE | Kayla Sprint

SHOP BRISTLECONE

4932 NE 30th Ave., 503-358-3395.

Fail to notice the sandwich board announcing Bristlecone’s existence just off Alberta and you might unintentionally bypass the small vintage store. That would be a tragedy. This 6-year-old shop is lined with wellpriced, one-of-a-kind finds that veer toward the gender neutral. The dressing room, adorned with string lights and teak wood, accomplishes the rare feat of not making you feel like a specimen in a fluorescent-lit petri dish while trying things on.

PENCIL TEST

2407 NE Alberta St., 971-266-8611.

The term “pencil test” refers to an informal way of determining whether one should wear a bra (Google it, friends). In a cheeky spin on this concept, Pencil Test specializes in fittings and bras for sizes D and up. If you’re usually a bargain underwear shopper, slipping into Pencil Test’s silky selections will have you wanting to throw out all your old knocker lockers and never look back.

TRADE UP MUSIC

1834 NE Alberta St., 503-335-8800, tradeupmusic.com.

Even for the musically disinclined, a trip to Trade Up is a delight. The shop is a marketplace for buying, selling and trading used instruments—meaning the selection ranges from brand new to well loved. It’s not uncommon to hear sweet little melodies being plucked or tooted as you stroll throughout.

Good luck finding parking near the stretch of Alberta between 15th and 30th Avenues on the last Thursdays of summer. From 6 to 9:30 pm, the street is shut to vehicle traffic, and folks strolling the street find art vendors, kids selling lemonade, free booze and obscure street performers.

ALBERTA ROSE THEATRE 3000 NE Alberta St., 503-719-6055, albertarosetheatre.com.

This intimate theater is a renovated 1920s movie house that now hosts concerts, comedy sets, plays and live recorded radio shows. Plush red bucket seats and a sweeping balcony adorn the attractive space. Bonus points for pulling up in a rambling old Chrysler.

SOLAE’S LOUNGE

If the only thing that draws you to Zig Zag is the $5 rack on the sidewalk outside, chances are you’ll still score a unique find. A middle display features exclusively vintage denim, surrounded by scattered blazers, vintage tees, sundresses, crystals and weathered books. True to its name, the store provides ample opportunity to wander.

Solae’s is arguably the soul-bearer of pregentrification Alberta Street. The3-year-old lounge—and one of the city’s last remaining live jazz bars—hosts musicians five nights a week. Typically packed on weekends, here you’ll find patrons congregating around the small stage, playing pool, or kicking back on the large back patio.

FINDER 2018

NE Alberta St., lastthursdayonalberta.com. Last Thursday of every month.

ZIG ZAG WANDERER

1458 NE Alberta St., 503-737-5014.

LAST THURSDAY

1801 NE Alberta St., 503-206-8338, solaeslounge.com.

LAST THURSDAY | Thomas Teal

ALBERTA ARTS DISTRICT

must

W O O D L AW N A SMALL STRETCH OF NORTHEAST DEKUM STREET is the annexed commerce center of this mostly residential neighborhood. Looking at the area’s census data shows a markedly morphing demography. In 2000, 46 percent of the neighborhood’s residents identified as black or African-American and 37 percent as white. A decade later those percentages shifted to 29 and 55, respectively. So Woodlawn hasn’t escaped gentrification. Much of the street’s development took place around 2010, but a slow trickle of new additions—like a hip-hop pot shop and well-curated vintage store—have opened within the past six months and are well worth supporting.

THE HIGH WATER MARK 6800 NE Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd., 503286-6513, highwatermarklounge.com. The High Water Mark is a vestibule of Portland punkness. Obscure art packs the walls—including one large painting of a Viking riding a Rainier centaur. A winged Satan also lords over the dark bar just in front of a small TV. But definitely don’t expect sports programming. On a recent visit, a Discovery Channel feature played, airing slo-mo clips of reptiles as a couple of leather-clad patrons lined up to order drinks. A word of advice for new-to-town queer babes: Judy on Duty, the dance party on the last Saturday of each month, is a steamy scene with a consistently packed dance floor.

EAT FIREHOUSE

711 NE Dekum St., 503-954-1702, firehousepdx.com. Dinner Monday-Saturday.

Situated in—surprise, surprise—a defunct firehouse, this Italian restaurant serves some of the best wood-fired, super-thin crust pizza in Portland—along with pretty miraculous dinner and drink options. Don’t miss the masterpiece pies that come with a hefty pair of scissors for slicing. Like scene props in a film, the bikes, historic building and burnished wood booths re-create a seriously authentic Italian feel. $$$.

P’S & Q’S MARKET

1301 NE Dekum St., 503-894-8979, psandqsmarket.com. Lunch and dinner daily.

In desperate need of laundry detergent and produce, but also hungry for a sandwich and jonesing for a beer on tap? P’s & Q’s Market has got you covered. The bar-cafe-grocery store is a convenient hub for neighbors reluctant to make the trek to New Seasons. In its cool austerity, it’s also become a gathering point for the area’s young new residents—their aversion to pomp and vanities a distinct marker of the neighborhood’s emerging hipness. $$.

ALBERTA ARTS DISTRICT

Thomas Teal

PODNAH’S PIT

1625 NE Killingsworth St., 503-281-3700, podnahspit.com. Lunch and dinner daily.

If you leave Podnah’s feeling anything less than needing to be rolled out the door like Violet Beauregarde in Willy Wonka & the Chocolate Factory, you’re doing it wrong. Diners pick from slow-smoked, savory pork, chicken or trout and two of a handful of classic sides—including spicy pinto beans, coleslaw and collards. Podnah’s portions are substantial, as is the wait to get a table. But it’s well worth it—if only to give yourself a few more appetite-building minutes before scarfing down sauce-laden ribs with the unapologetic dedication demanded by good BBQ. $$.

HAT YAI

1605 NE Killingsworth St., 503-764-9701, hatyaipdx.com. Lunch and dinner daily.

In a tiny, wood-slatted hall of a space with plastic, blue-checkered tablecloths, Hat Yai shames full-service restaurants with three times the staff. The crispy-skinned, tender Hat Yai fried chicken is served with a sweet chili sauce that complements the floral notes of the coriander. In spring and summer, get the tamarind whiskey smash accented with mint and lemon; in the colder months, go for the coconut mango horchata. $$. WILL AMETTE WEEK

LA TAQ

1625 NE Killingsworth St., 971-888-5687, lataqpdx.com. Dinner-late nightly.

Sometimes, contemporary spins on beloved and simple classics, like tacos, fail miserably. That’s not the case at La Taq. This Tex-Mex eatery claims a small space on a stretch of Killingworth where side-by-side new developments are almost exclusively dedicated to dining. Industrial features—like concrete countertops and stamped copper paneling—adorn the cantina-style restaurant, and taco toppings include guajillo-marinated pork and sauteed cactus. $$.

SEASTAR/HANDSOME PIZZA

1603 NE Killingsworth St., 503-247-7499, seastarbakery.com, handsomepizza.com. Breakfastdinner Wednesday-Monday.

Sharing one space, Seastar and Handsome Pizza put wood-fired ovens to economical use, functioning as a bakery in the morning and pizza parlor in the evening. Seastar’s breakfast offerings include myriad takes on toast. The more savory-inclined might order the pickled beet, egg and goat cheese, while sweet tooths will veer toward the peanut butter, raw honey, dukkah and flake-salt option. Handsome’s evening choices are equally fresh and savor-worthy, with pie toppings like oregano salame piccante, ricotta and mozzarella. $$.

THE OREGON PUBLIC HOUSE

700 NE Dekum St., 503-828-0884, oregonpublichouse.com.

At the world’s first nonprofit pub, drinking is not a spectator sport. After operating fees are covered, the bar gives all profits to a selection of local charities. Under chalkboards boasting the day’s menu and the bold motto “Eat. Drink. Give” sits a lineup of clear tubes affixed with the logos of the do-gooders the bar is currently supporting. With every dollar bill, the “Give-O-Meter” number rises.

TOUGH LUCK

1771 NE Dekum St., 971-754-4188, toughluckbar.com.

Tough Luck is based on a surefire formula of whiskey and comfort food. And judging from the crowds in the tight-tabled drinking hall at 6 pm, it’s already well-appreciated in its neighborhood. Whiskey is stocked here in impressive abundance, with a list of $9-to$10 house old-fashioneds, including variants using Japanese and Irish ryes and bourbons. One wall is dominated by a giant mural recreating a mass-market Ouija board, while the one opposite features a 16-foot light-up scoreboard for the house shuffleboard table.

SHOP UPCYCLES

516 NE 16th Ave., 503-388-0305, upcyclespdx.com.

Upcycles owns the “hole in the wall” descriptor. But while it’s small, the service here is friendly and attentive, and the bike and accessory selection is well-curated. For those visiting, or the bike-commute curious, rental options are available. And for biking veterans, owner Kai offers full-service repairs and tune-ups. He’ll also schedule a one-on-one maintenance class if you’ve wanted to learn how to keep your ride in top shape by yourself.

CELANDINE VINTAGE

911 NE Dekum St., 208-520-2381. Closed Tuesday.

As Dekum Street’s newest commercial resident, Celandine Vintage is a serious treasure trove. The store’s namesake, Celandine’s owner explained on a recent visit, is a “magical” medicinal plant that grows in the area and is said to be a “good business omen.” Refreshingly gender-neutral racks are interspersed with obscure art, kitchenware and jewelry finds. Pro tip: The sidewalk sale is always far from an island of castaways.

DRINK BREAKSIDE BREWING

820 NE Dekum St., 503-719-6475, breakside.com.

Breakside is that grinning prodigy that seemingly does everything right. Hoppy beers? Yale-educated head brewer Ben Edmunds won gold at the Great American Beer Festival for Breakside’s flagship IPA. Lagers? The super-clean Pilsner has a stack of awards. Pastry stouts? Breakside teamed with Salt & Straw to make a wildly popular salted-caramel rendition. The patio here has a well-worn neighborhood feel compared to the NW Breakside location, complemented by more young families (and their dogs).

KEYS LOUNGE

533 NE Killingsworth St., 503-719-7409, keyspdx.com.

Keys Lounge may not have existed back in your dad’s bachelor days, but owners Brian Alfred and Mike Gadberry have done a fine job of convincing you he would have hung out here. The midcentury rumpus room tastefully toes the line between swank and kitsch, featuring deep red leather booths, Persian rugs and animated Rainier signs.

KEYS LOUNGE | Walter Stockly

FINDER 2018

ALBERTA ARTS DISTRICT

GO ALBERTA PARK

1905 NE Killingsworth St.

In a roughly 17-acre swatch of green space, Alberta Park manages to meet the needs of nearly all outdoor-sports enthusiasts. A tennis court, basketball court, bark-chip jogging path, baseball diamond, play structure, picnic table and bike hockey court take up various corners of the park. Couples canoodling on blankets on the ample lawn or park visitors slacklining on a strap pulled taut between two trees are also common sights.

CURIOUS COMEDY THEATER

5225 NE Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd., 503-477-9477, curiouscomedy.org.

ALBERTA PARK | Kayla Sprint

If it’s your first comedy show and you’re terrified of being made the joke’s subject, Curious Comedy’s balcony seating is a safe yet intimate vantage point. And if you’ve been to dozens of improv shows and are convinced you’ve got the comedic chops to wing it, Curious Comedy’s free classes will get you onstage. Whatever the draw, and maybe thanks to the bar’s stiff drinks, it’s not hard to feel as if you’d wandered into a dinner party for your most witty, hilarious friends.

WOODLAWN FARMERS MARKET

Northeast Dekum Street and Durham Avenue, woodlawnfarmersmarket.org. 10 am–2 pm Saturdays, May-October.

Find the usual nearby-grown produce and herbs, along with plant starts for gardens, handmade shea butter by Just V Natural and Scratch Meats’ homemade bangers and ‘wursts. This farmers market also accepts payment via SNAP/EBT, so everyone can afford to eat real, locally-grown food.

WOODLAWN FARMERS MARKET | Kayla Sprint

ALBERTA ARTS DISTRICT

WILL AMETTE WEEK

CONCORDIA THIS DISTRICT GETS ITS NAME from Concordia University, Northeast Portland’s small, Lutheran liberal arts college. But the connection to religious, academic vibes is in name only. The neighborhood—while compact—boasts a number of upscale Italian restaurants, a massive McMenamins with Roman bath-style outdoor tubs and a bar helmed by James Beard Award-winning chef Naomi Pomeroy. Thanks to the large Fernhill Park, a string of fancy food spots, a yoga studio and a vintage shop, an entire leisurely day can easily be spent on this one small stretch of Killingsworth Street.

EAT YAZUKA LOUNGE

5411 NE 30th Ave., 503-450-0893, yakuzalounge.com. Dinner-late nightly.

Yazuka is a low-slung, low-lit lounge where diners are encouraged to order a plethora of small plates and even more booze to wash them down. The concept for the restaurant is a Japanese izakaya—which is a lot like a Spanish tapas bar—where the focus is on drinks and small orders of delicate sashimi, sushi and otsumami. $$.

DAME

2930 NE Killingsworth St., 503-227-2669, damerestaurant.com. Dinner Wednesday-Sunday.

Dame could’ve been Portland’s equivalent to Wildair or the Four Horsemen, two NYC restaurants leading the vanguard for the fusion of natural wine and food in America. Instead, it is something more easily recognizable: a cute, increasingly accessible NoPo wine spot with elevated bar snacks. $$$.

must Kayla Sprint

COMMON GROUND WELLNESS CENTER 5010 NE 33rd Ave., 503-238-1065, cgwc.org. Common Ground feels like one of the best-kept secret sanctuaries in Northeast Portland. That’s partially thanks to the limited capacity the wellness center accommodates on any given evening. Common Ground houses a large outdoor soak and sauna area and offers acupuncture, massage, counseling and naturopathic services. Meaning: You should call ahead to reserve soaking time, and pack a swimsuit only if you choose. Nudity, you’ll find, is the norm here—with respectful relaxation and safety being Common Ground rules and priorities.

BEAST

5425 NE 30th Ave., 503-841-6968, beastpdx.com. Dinner Wednesday-Sunday.

DAME | Thomas Teal

FINDER 2018

Pacing is the most underrated part of the high-end dining experience. Most prix fixe spots will deliver a few special bites. The ones that really stand out manage to elevate the experience with surprising, playful twists that build in a thundering crescendo. Though Beast’s menu changes every two weeks, Corvallis-born, self-taught chef Naomi Pomeroy has a distinctive style. Seasonal standouts include a fish crudo and foie gras bonbon. $$$$. ALBERTA ARTS DISTRICT

DRINK EXPATRIATE

5424 NE 30th Ave., 503-867-5309, expatriatepdx.com.

Expatriate is the bar project of Beard Awardwinner Naomi Pomeroy of Beast. The drink menu, created by Pomeroy’s husband, Kyle Webster, runs the gamut from tropical and fruity to refreshingly bitter. It’s impossible to go wrong with anything from this menu, but if you truly can’t decide, go with the Diplomatic Pouch—a customized creation made with your choice of spirit and a descriptor.

SHOP RED FOX VINTAGE

3014 NE Killingsworth St., 503-206-4540, redfoxvintage.com.

It’s easy to get blissfully lost in this packed vintage shop. The large space sells goods curated from a variety of different vendors— meaning no two racks are alike in style. A word of caution: Shopping after a blissful yoga session at People’s next door can lead to easy over-indulgence. Sometimes that’s just what the soul needs.

DON PEDRO’S PRODUCE

1540 NE Killlingsworth St., 503-688-5961.

This locally owned produce stand is open year round and almost always overflowing with bountiful fruit and vegetable selections. Most of the produce is kept under a canopy tent, but inside the small market, fresh eggs, and Mexican spices and candies also are on offer.

GO MCMENAMINS KENNEDY SCHOOL 5736 NE 33rd Ave., 503-249-3983, mcmenamins.com.

This massive, refurbished structure contains a hotel, multiple bars, pool tables, a cigar room, a movie theater, a restaurant and an outdoor soaking tub. You can take your drinks from bar to bar as you roam the historic, circa 1915 elementary school—where original art and historic photos are preserved in the winding hallways.

KENNEDY SCHOOL | Aubrey Gigandet

ALBERTA ARTS DISTRICT

WILL AMETTE WEEK

OUTER NORTHEAST

ORTLAND’S CHANGING LANDSCAPE can be jarring. Leave North Williams Avenue for a month, and you’re likely to return as a stranger to transformed storefronts—or at least a few demolished buildings. Outer Northeast, however, seems to be taking its time. Sure, Hollywood’s getting a makeover—particularly its MAX stop, now a memorial for one of the darkest moments in modern Portland history. But the essential landmarks remain unchanged. That section of Sandy Boulevard that bleeds into Roseway is still an oasis for East Asian immigrants and startup families, resisting total transformation almost outright. Beaumont still looks like a mix of Norman Rockwell and Beverly Cleary, its Main Street vibes seemingly unstuck in time. And Cully continues to develop its “cool” section on a small strip of 42nd Avenue—a tiny row of low-key cool restaurants sandwiched in the middle of a massive district that functions as something of an alternate Portland reality, one where blue-collar workers can still afford a home and where trailer parks and repair shops outnumber coffee spots. Outer Northeast shows you can still open a couple great bars and restaurants without destroying the entire neighborhood to get there.

BY ANDY KRYZA Arriving in Portland from small-town Michigan in 2005, I quickly fell in love with the city’s scrappy spirit, something that has long survived despite the curmudgeons who decry the death of “Old Portland.” I puttered around the media landscape for years—including a long-running freelance film column at Willamette Week called AP Film Studies—before landing a gig at Thrillist, where I now serve as senior food and drink editor in Los Angeles. Finder is my last assignment as a Portlander, but I continue to dream of Scottie’s Pizza, Nong’s Khao Man Gai, Lardo, and all the beer I’m leaving behind—along with a piece of my soul. NEIGHBORHOOD NOTES After accumulating market research by paying the parking tickets that customers incurred while shopping at his downtown grocery-cum-pharmacy, Fritz Grubmeyer studied where his customers lived and, in 1931, changed his name and opened the first Fred Meyer shopping center, at Northeast Sandy Boulevard and 42nd Avenue (it’s now a Rite Aid). Meyer is considered an originator of the “one-stop shopping” superstore concept. Over the past decade, the student newspaper at Grant High School (est. 1924; its alumni include author Beverly Cleary and rapper Aminé) evolved into a 36-page full-color monthly called Grant Magazine . It has won the Columbia Scholastic Press Association’s Gold Crown Award three years in a row.

MURAL DESIGNED BY SARAH FARAHAT, COMMEMORATING THE VICTIMS OF THE 2017 MAX SLAYINGS | Courtesy of Trimet

THE PICKS WHERE TO GRAB A CUP OF JOE, BUY WEED, WALK YOUR POOCH, AND PICK UP GROCERIES.

VIVIENNE KITCHEN & PANTRY 4128 NE Sandy Blvd. 503-384-2473 viviennepdx.com

PURE GREEN 3738 NE Sandy Blvd. 971-302-2357 puregreenpdx.com

NORMANDALE DOG PARK 5700 NE Halsey St.

HOLLYWOOD FARMERS MARKET NE 44th Ave. and Hancock St. hollywoodfarmersmarket.org

C U L LY

Christine Dong

“CULLY’S CHANGING.” It’s a phrase that’s been circulating for a decade, but outside of the restaurant and bar row on Northeast 42nd, the bluecollar neighborhood seems somewhat preserved in amber. It’s an alternate Portland: Backyards are big, houses are more affordable, trailer parks exist alongside dishwasher repair shops, and the occasional MAGA flag can be spotted, along with angry lifers at a bar complaining about Californian neighbors jacking up their property taxes. But Cully is changing. An urban farm here. A gallery there. This is neighborhood development moving at the pace of a Zack Snyder fight scene: slow, workmanlike and bound to piss people off and enchant them in more or less equal measure.

must

SPARE ROOM 4830 NE 42nd Ave., 503-287-5800. spareroomrestaurantandlounge.com. One of Portland’s most storied dive bars, Spare Room wears a lot of different shoes— which seems appropriate, given that this sprawling, dim den of sin used to be a bowling alley. It’s a destination for blue-collar day drinkers, who flock for pool and cheap mystery shots poured from a brown bag and obtained by rolling dice. It’s home to queer dance parties, live rock and tribute bands. Karaoke runs from raucous to eerily intimate. It doesn’t matter who you are here; everyone sings along when it’s too dark to tell anyway.

EAT TINY MORESO

4520 NE 42nd Ave., 503-602-4243, rawdaciousdesserts.com/tinymoreso. Breakfast and lunch daily.

The folks behind Rawdacious Desserts have built a reputation for impossibly decadent, raw, vegan cheesecakes, and now they’ve opened a diminutive, easy-to-miss storefront. The charms of this itty-bitty snackery—try pairing a Ristretto latte with housemade cashew milk and a slice of vegan cookie dough ($5)—are enough to fill a space twice its size. $.

PIZZA JERK

5028 NE 42nd Ave., 503-284-9333, pizzajerkpdx.com. Lunch and dinner daily.

When Bunk Sandwiches maestro Tommy Habetz opened his checkered-tableclothed ode to the pizzerias of the East Coast, it was met with applause…then promptly caught fire. But from those ashes, Pizza Jerk somehow got better, with New Haven-meets-Brooklyn pies like the Clam Jam and the Always Sunny in Cully—cast-iron pies inspired by Detroit, and, um, fried rice. Just go with it. $-$$.

RED SAUCE

4935 NE 42nd Ave., 503-288-4899, redsaucepizza.com. Dinner nightly.

Located directly across from Pizza Jerk, Red Sauce still holds its own, due to great pies topped with homemade Canadian bacon and some of the city’s best cheesy bread. But the real standout here is the calzone—perhaps the best in Portland: football-sized and prestocked with good red sauce and four kinds of cheese, including ooey-gooey mozzarella and fresh, lemony ricotta. $-$$. FINDER 2018

42ND AND ALBERTA CT., SPARE ROOM ON LEFT, CIRCA 1958 | PORTLAND CITY ARCHIVES

MAE

SALTY’S ON THE COLUMBIA

For nearly two years, people have been losing their collective shit over Maya Lovelace’s twice-weekly Mae pop-up in the back of Old Salt. Hers is a spectacular procession of southern-fried deliciousness highlighted by a fried chicken brined in buttermilk and skillet-fried with schmaltz, bacon fat and lard. It’s otherworldly on its own. Keep an eye out for Lovelace’s full-time brick-andmortar, opening soon. $$

Yeah, Salty’s is a little corny, what with its faux yacht club feel and boat-shoed clientele. But on a sunny Sunday, it’s also got a bucket-list brunch, a seafood spread complete with towers of crabs and oysters served with staggering views of the Columbia. It’s the kind of experience usually reserved for the East or Gulf Coast…or Joe’s in Vancouver. Don’t do that. $$-$$$.

5027 NE 42nd Ave., maepdx.com. Dinner Monday and Wednesday.

3839 NE Marine Drive, 503-288-4444, saltys.com. Lunch and dinner daily, brunch weekends.

OUTER NORTHEAST

SEE A MOVIE EVERY DAY FOR UNDER $10

MONDAY

LIVING ROOM THEATERS 341 SW 10th Ave., 971-222-2010, livingroomtheaters.com. Admission: $6 all day.

TUESDAY

LAURELHURST THEATER 2735 E Burnside St., 503-232-5511, laurelhursttheater.com. Admission: $6 all day.

WEDNESDAY

ST. JOHNS TWIN CINEMA 8704 N Lombard St., 503-2861768, stjohnscinema.com. Admission: $6 before 6 pm, $8 after 6 pm, every day.

MISS ZUMSTEIN’S BAKERY & COFFEE SHOP

GARTNER’S COUNTRY MEAT MARKET

This twee, welcoming cafe and bakery is a marvel, shelling out satisfying quiche, flaky croissants and other complex fare—though we’d be seriously remiss if we didn’t mention the rotating assortment of simple sugar cookies, which might be the city’s best and sit like sprinkle-bedazzled sirens drawing you away from more nuanced choices. $.

This place is basically one-stop shopping for any cookout, an emporium for all meats (including some of the city’s best pre-marinated cuts and in-house sausages), plus any accoutrement you’ll need for the picnic table. Except vegetables. Unless pepperoni sticks count as vegetables.

5027 NE 42nd Ave., 971-279-2746, misszumstein.com. Breakfast-late lunch daily.

BEESWING

4318 NE Cully Blvd., 503-477-7318, beeswing.com. Breakfast-late lunch Monday-Tuesday; breakfastdinner Wednesday-Sunday.

The biscuit at Beeswing ($3.50) is a wonder, a layered high-rise architecture of buttermilk and air. It tastes like comfort itself. Lorette bakes small miracles in Beeswing’s oven every morning, whether heavenly walnut scones, rich maple bourbon pecan hand pies or airy, maple-touched sourdough waffles ($9) topped with a seasonal wealth of pears. $-$$.

DRINK NEPO 42

THURSDAY

CLINTON STREET THEATER 2522 SE Clinton St., 503-8970744, cstpdx.com. Admission: $5-$9.99 every day, depending on the screening.

FRIDAY

ACADEMY THEATER 7818 SE Stark St., 503-252-0500, academytheaterpdx.com. Admission: $4 all day, every day.

SATURDAY

ROSEWAY THEATER 7229 NE Sandy Blvd., 503-2822898, rosewaytheater.com. Admission: $8 all day, every day.

SUNDAY

CINEMAGIC THEATER 2021 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 503-2317919, thecinemagictheater.com. Admission: $7.50 all day, every day.

5403 NE 42nd Ave., 503-288-8080, nepo42.com.

Nepo 42 has become the de facto non-dive bar in Cully by process of elimination: On the fast-changing stretch of 42nd, it’s either here or Spare Room. Nepo punches above its weight, with a solid beer list, elevated bar food (go for the woefully underrated smoked-then-fried chicken wings), and the neighborhood’s best grown-up patio. Minors allowed until 9 pm.

CRACKER BOX TAVERN 6420 NE Portland Highway, 503-288-2312.

All that shit you heard about Cully being on the up and up? Cracker Box didn’t get the memo. Or it did, and the denizens of this paragon of dive-bar glory lost it amid the maritime debris that doubles as décor in this den of free pool and cheap beer. Those in the know come here for low ceilings, friendly conversation, questionable structural integrity, and zero shame.

SHOP DADDIES BOARD SHOP 5909 NE 80th Ave., 503-281-5123, daddiesboardshop.com.

At a sprawling 1,800 square feet, Daddies is one of Portland’s biggest skate shops, and one of its best stocked. And while standard decks and gear are bountiful, Daddies has also established itself as an authority on longboards, making it a must for boarders seeking to go beyond the half pipe.

Illustration by Olivia Lynch

OUTER NORTHEAST

7450 NE Killingsworth St., 503-252-7801, gartnersmeats.com. Closed Monday.

CARIBBEAN SPICE MARKET 4516 NE 42nd Ave., 503-493-2737. Closed Sunday.

Caribbean Spice is the go-to place for jerk spices and other Caribbean flair, as clearly demonstrated by the Rastafarian paint job. Endless shelves of aromatic embellishments wait to be paired up with the quality meats— goat included—in the freezer.

JUMP JUMP MUSIC

7005 NE Prescott St., 503-284-4828, jump-jumpmusic.business.site. Closed Saturday-Sunday.

If you didn’t know better, you could easily wander into the converted house that is Jump Jump Music and assume you were pursuing an estate sale for a recently deceased music geek who spent a lifetime amassing stacks of hard-to-find hip-hop, soul and R&B records. Which is to say, this place is amazing, and the most likely place to run into your favorite local DJ.

METALWOOD SALVAGE

4311 NE Prescott St., 503-715-5432, metalwoodsalvage.com. Closed Monday.

Metalwood is the epitome of that old-timey Portland love of transforming found objects into works of modern art: Part scrapyard, part gallery, it’s one of those outstanding resources that people dream they’ll come across on every corner before they move here. And for the aspiring salvage artist, Metalwood even offers welding classes.

GO COLWOOD NATIONAL GOLF CLUB 7313 NE Columbia Blvd., 503-254-5515, colwoodgolfclub.com

If you’re looking for Portland’s best golf course, well, you’ve wandered off the green. Still, there’s a distinct pleasure to be had shooting 18 holes on an idyllic Portland morning on a course whose biggest hills make most driveways look mountainous, where the calm of the nearby slough is augmented by jets en route to PDX overhead, and where the $24-per-player greens fees might make you wonder why you’d golf anywhere else.

THE SIDE YARD 4800 NE Simpson St., 503-957-4588, thesideyardpdx.com.

Part urban farm, part supper club, part bike-in movie theater, and part educational center offering classes for aspiring agrarians young and old, Chopped champ Stacey Givens’ Side Yard takes to heart that just because a place specializes in farm-to-table cooking doesn’t mean the ingredients come from, you know, the country. WILL AMETTE WEEK

H O L LY W O O D / B E A U M O N T HOLLYWOOD HAS ALWAYS SERVED as an unofficial gateway between East Portland identities, the portal to the hipper parts of Southeast, the tree-lined streets of Beverly Cleary Land, and the rougher industrial zones under development siege throughout. Hollywood itself feels like a downtown for all these disparate types, a walkable neighborhood with a handful of quality restaurants, shops, and more than its fair share of dives and dumps, all united by the accessibility of MAX and lit by the glow of the namesake theater sign. Meanwhile, Beaumont remains relatively unchanged, offering a buffer between other Northeast neighborhoods in the form of a Rockwellian little downtown area untouched by time (and by visitors, if the high business turnaround is any indication). It’s an area at once in flux and unchanged, a glorious contradiction that rewards frequent exploration.

must

HOLLYWOOD THEATRE 4122 NE Sandy Blvd., 503-493-1128, hollywoodtheatre.org. Not long ago, the Hollywood was kind of a joke: a beautiful, century-old theater that catered to arthouse folks whose interest in a film depended strongly on the presence of Jim Broadbent. But then, something changed. A lot, actually. B-movies, lost kung fu classics, and bizarre revivals packed the house with rowdy cinephiles. An upgrade to 70 mm projection brought the prestige (and the Tarantino, who popped in to screen The Hateful Eight). Beer began to flow, along with slices from Sizzle Pie. First-run films—arthouse and blockbusters—began appearing. And suddenly, this historic namesake of the neighborhood became one of the best theaters for movie lovers in the nation, period. Not bad for a little nonprofit.

EAT CHIN’S KITCHEN

4126 NE Broadway, 503-281-1203, portlandchinskitchen.com. Lunch and dinner daily.

At nearly 70 years old, Chin’s Kitchen is a gaudy neon monument tucked away on a side street. It’s one of the oldest Chinese restaurants in Portland, but it wasn’t until last year that it became the best, thanks to a pair of sisters who took over and started handmaking dumplings and noodles—the latter highlighted by one of the best beef noodle soups this city has ever seen. $-$$.

CABEZON

5200 NE Sacramento St., 503-284-6617, cabezonrestaurant.com. Dinner nightly.

Cabezon’s been flying well under the radar for years. Hell, many take its name to mean it’s a taco joint. But Cabezon is home to immaculately sourced, expertly prepared seafood creations like an explosive cioppino— clams, shrimp, Dungeness crab, calamari and blue mussels swimming in harmony—and gloriously grilled tuna steaks that nail the intersection of Italy and Cascadia. $$-$$$.

BANG BANG

4727 NE Fremont St., 503-287-3846, bangbangpdx.com. Dinner nightly.

You won’t find drunken noodles or pad thai at this quaint little boozer. And you won’t care, largely because this joint takes its Eastern inspirations and runs, slamming out inauthentic twists on Thai drinking food ranging from red curry bowls topped with fried catfish to puffed tendons that eat like meaty Cheetos, wings, and a half-dozen succulent skewers. Oh, and booze. Lots of booze. $-$$. FINDER 2018

CHIN'S KITCHEN | Emily Joan Greene

Chef Cindy Li of Chin's Kitchen

OUTER NORTHEAST

PIP’S ORIGINAL DOUGHNUTS

4759 NE Fremont St., 503-206-8692. Breakfast and lunch daily.

About the size of a half dollar, the doughnuts here are fried to order and kissed with sugar, the requisite maple bacon, Nutella or honey. The kitchen-sink version, the Dirty Wu, is about as indulgent as Pip’s gets, and looks downright tame compared to most shops in doughnut-horny Portland. These two-biters don’t need to hide behind toppings. Pair them with a flight of in-house chai, and come in for your birthday for a free dozen. $.

SHANDONG

3724 NE Broadway, 503-287-0331, shandongportland. com. Lunch and dinner daily.

Shandong remains a fantastic, chefly alternative to the sweet-and-sour stuff amateurs crave. One dish in particular, though, is destination-worthy: The handmade Judy’s Noodles combine spinach, scallion greens, garlic and jalapeño into a spicy showcase of the noodle’s chewy splendor. The XLB, too, are on point. So’s the sweet and sour, actually. Sorry we called you an amateur for wanting it. $-$$.

Happy Hour 4pm-7pm Daily COME PLAY WITH US

Res taurant

Guide

LITTLE GRIDDLE

3520 NE 42nd Ave., 503-752-7956. Breakfast and lunch Monday, Wednesday-Sunday.

This sunny, exceedingly cozy little spot flies under the brunch radar. There’s no line here—not yet, anyway. Just excellent biscuit sandwiches (and biscuits and gravy) and a trio of Benedicts, the best of which is the huevos Benedictos ($13), which treats an English muffin as host to a sort of open-face breakfast burrito topped with braised pork shoulder. $-$$.

THRIVE

4641 NE Fremont St., 503-288-8365, thrivesauceandbowls.com. Lunch and early dinner Tuesday-Wednesday, lunch and dinner ThursdaySaturday.

Cart-turned-restaurant Thrive made its name on exemplary rice and noodle bowls made with 100 percent vegan and gluten-free ingredients. In taking the operation indoors, things got even more customizable, with fried fish, confit pork belly and an outstanding tempeh on offer in bowls priced for individuals or full families. Don’t skip the battered avocado. $-$$.

PIP'S ORIGINAL DOUGHNUTS | Emily Bernard Stevens

DRINK LAURELWOOD BREWING PUBLIC HOUSE 5115 NE Sandy Blvd., 503-282-0622, laurelwoodbrewpub.com.

One of the OGs of the Portland brewing scene, Laurelwood was a trailblazer of organic beers. More important, the brewpub offers asylum for parents who like beer: It is equipped with a large play area for little ones. The beer’s great. But the opportunity for parents to enjoy a Free Range Red and garlic fries without worrying about the kids screaming at the table? Priceless.

ALAMEDA BREWING 4765 NE Fremont St., 503-460-9025, alamedabrewing.com.

Having established its prowess with an award-winning Black Bear Stout, Alameda kind of gets left out of the beer nerd conversation. Maybe the neck beards just can’t get past this family-friendly pub’s distinctly suburban feel (and clientele). Shame for them: The Betty Bunny cherry hibiscus ale is fantastic, and on Saturdays, you can get a growler fill for $6.

KILLER BURGER

4644 NE Sandy Blvd., 971-544-7521, killerburger.com. Lunch and dinner daily.

The bacon-on-everything wave has passed, but this outpost of the kid-friendly burger bar chainlet didn’t get the memo, thankfully. Every one of Killer Burger’s offerings comes with bacon, including my favorite, the Barnyard, loaded with bacon, ham, egg and cheese to fill the Stanich’s-size hole in Portland’s heart. $-$$.

YOUR GUIDE TO WHAT TO EAT IN PORTLAND. PUBLISHES NOv. 7 2018 ALAMEDA BREWING | Bridget Baker

OUTER NORTHEAST

WILL AMETTE WEEK

LEARN SOMETHING NEW TODAY VITALIDAD MOVEMENT ARTS CENTER 116 SE Yamhill St., 971-266-3935, myvmac.com. From Zumba and yoga sessions to salsa and voguing tutorials led by local ballroom legend Daniel Girón, this is the place to find your rhythm. HIPCOOKS 3808 N Williams Ave., Suite 120, 503281-0614, portland.hipcooks.com. Whether mastering a four-course Thai dinner, a Spanish tapas lineup or Jamaican jerk chicken, you can always look forward to the after-class dinner party. HIGH LOW ART SPACE 936 SE 34th Ave., 503-708-0838, highlowartspace.com. A place for artists of every creed, High Low conducts drop-in classes that feature figure sculpting, charcoal portraits and more advanced figure drawing with an emphasis on form and anatomy.

YEATES ACADEMY OF IRISH DANCE 4231 N Interstate Ave., 503-2499009, yeatesacademy.com. Looking to learn how to hornpipe? Instructor Sinead Yeates and studio directors Molly Malone and Breda Yeates have taught classes to ages 5 and up since 1985. PORTLAND MEAT COLLECTIVE 971-373-4737, pdxmeat.com. Take dinner into your own hands at this revolutionary DIY meat academy, where you can learn how to skin a rabbit, properly butcher half a pig or make your own sausage from heritage-raised animals provided by local farmers. WASABI PADDLING CLUB 1515 SE Water Ave., wasabiusa.org. Do you have what it takes to cruise the Willamette on a Dragon Boat? Grab a paddle and find out—your first three practices are free before an annual membership is required.

Illustration by Olivia Lynch

THE MOON AND SIXPENCE 2014 NE 42nd Ave., 503-288-7802.

An old-school British pub that was doing the craft beer thing before most bars caught up, the Moon and Sixpence has been an anchor of the Hollywood neighborhood for years, a haven for people who seek a proper pint, a scotch egg, and solid beer but don’t feel like trekking to Horse Brass. Bonus: The back patio is one of the neighborhood’s best-kept secrets. You’re welcome.

BOTTLES 5015 NE Fremont St., 503-287-7022, bottlesnw.com.

With about 500 beers in the fridge, this cozy little beer bunker is a solid enough bottle shop for a neighborhood sorely in need of one. But what sets Bottles apart from its well-stocked brethren—aside from a pretty nice patio—are the solid barbecue offerings, which include pulled pork and an outstanding smoked turkey. Oh, and there’s a solid pinball selection as well as Nintendo.

SHOP ANTIQUES ALLEY 2000 NE 42nd Ave., 503-287-9848, antiquesalleypdx.com.

We’re not sure who the hell decided to drop the equivalent of about 100 random-ass garage sales into the basement of a building that also doubles as a postal station and beauty shop (no word on the pub and hearing aids on the outdated signage outside), but, damn it, we’re glad they did. It’s one-stop shopping for a cowboy hat, a few dozen Hawaiian shirts, vintage magazines and taxidermy.

COSMIC MONKEY COMICS 5335 NE Sandy Blvd., 503-517-9050, cosmicmonkeycomics.com.

With more than 50,000 titles, Cosmic Monkey is an oasis for the comic and graphic novel set, but don’t mistake this for another stuffy, quiet den of geekery. This is a friendly nerd’s paradise, where comic swaps are the norm and karaoke has been known to break out. If you’ve ever wanted to sing Wham! while discussing its importance to Deadpool, this is your place.

BEAUMONT MARKET

4130 NE Fremont St., 503-284-3032, beaumontvillagepdx.com.

If you grew up reading Beverly Cleary, it’s very likely you imagined Ramona shopping at a cute, old-school grocery like this one— which is stocked with local artisanal goods, fresh produce and a solid beer selection. You know, for Beezus.

MOUNTAIN SHOP 1510 NE 37th Ave., 503-288-6768, mountainshop.net.

Offering up a solid alternative for the outdoor-inclined, Mountain Shop has spent the past eight decades helping climbers, skiers, hikers and campers gear up. And if you’re just dabbling, the shop offers rentals on most equipment to boot, which beats the hell out of using and returning skis from REI after the weekend.

GO NORTHEAST COMMUNITY CENTER 1630 NE 38th Ave., 503-284-3377, necommunitycenter.org.

This converted YMCA is a fantastic reprieve for people who want to work out or swim without being surrounded by grunting superhumans with bulging veins. You aren’t going to get a spin class here. Just an old-school gym with none of the judgment. FINDER 2018

OUTER NORTHEAST

R O S E WAY

HOW ROSEWAY SEEMS MORE OR LESS UNSTUCK in time is a mystery, especially considering the rapid changes that have happened in nearby neighborhoods like Montavilla. Had you returned to Roseway for the first time in 10 years, you’d still see many of the same Vietnamese restaurants shilling pho and whiskey and quirky shops selling rocks and oddities. You’d still see the cute little homes tucked together and populated with starter families and lifelong residents. Hell, if you transported here from the ’50s, you could still get a malt at the soda fountain from a soda jerk. Old Portland is alive and well in Roseway, even if the traffic has gotten worse.

EAT PIZZERIA OTTO

6708 NE Sandy Blvd., 971-373-8348, pizzeriaotto.com. Lunch and dinner daily.

Buried somewhere in the Portland city charter, it is decreed that every neighborhood have a solid, wood-fired pizza joint with a killer happy hour. Roseway’s is the beloved Otto, which offers up high-end Neapolitan pies, including a $6 margherita from 11am to 5 pm, then from 8 pm to close every day, and stands tall among Portland’s neighborhood pie shops. $-$$.

DU’S GRILL

5365 NE Sandy Blvd., 503-284-1773, dusgrill.com. Lunch and dinner Monday-Friday.

Du’s Grill is the finest Korean-owned, Mexican-staffed teriyaki joint on an I-5 corridor stacked with such places: A wonderland of perfectly grill-kissed beef, pork and chicken served with salad topped with lovely poppyseed dressing, Du’s is a Portland treasure. If you can’t find it, follow the billowing, meatscented smoke like a carnivorous toucan. $.

CLYDE’S PRIME RIB

5474 NE Sandy Blvd., 503-281-9200, clydesprimerib.com. Lunch-late daily.

Clyde’s has come a long way. The building once housed the famously racist Coon Chicken Inn before morphing into the kind of white-tableclothed steak house a vacationing Rat Packer would visit for stiff cocktails, dark ambience and dripping meat to the backdrop of live jazz. That feeling stuck around when ownership transferred to the cats behind Serrato. The cocktails, as well as the food, have improved drastically. $-$$.

OUTER NORTHEAST

Rosie Struve

PHO AN SANDY

ANNIE’S

Portland’s pho fortunes can rise and fall with the tides, but this year as last, the best bowls are at Pho An. The special bowl is a nice balance of sweetness, salt, herbal earthiness, floral star anise and a deep beefy fattiness. There’s no real reason to stray, though the presence of pizzle should entice the adventurous, or at least verify that this place is not fucking around in the slightest. $.

This old-school, glass-countered joint makes the best damn cruller in town, in addition to fatty, sugar-coated twists, old-fashioneds, and long johns that have captured the hearts (and clogged their valves) of cops, kids and transplants for generations. $

6236 NE Sandy Blvd., 503-281-2990, phoansandy.com. Breakfast-dinner daily.

3449 NE 72nd Ave., 503-284-2752. Breakfast-dinner Monday-Friday, breakfast and lunch Saturday-Sunday.

CAMEO CAFE

8111 NE Sandy Blvd., 503-284-0401, cameocafe.com. Breakfast and lunch daily.

The cornerstone of a good diner is the presence of standard American fare mixed with immigrant staples from the owner’s homeland. The mark of a great diner appears when those influences make perfect sense together. Here your blue-plate specials include kimchi, bulgogi and other Korean fare. It’s the fermented cabbage and buttermilk pancake combo you never knew you needed. $.

OHANA HAWAIIAN CAFE

6320 NE Sandy Blvd., 503-335-5800, ohanahawaiiancafe.com. Lunch and dinner daily.

Screw tiki drinks. Sometimes on a rainy day, you need to get your island culture in the form of a warm plate lunch. This little family-run lunch counter does the classics right—kalua pork, teriyaki chicken thighs and garlic-grilled mahi mahi are the standouts—in portions big enough to last two meals for the price of one. $ WILL AMETTE WEEK

BOOKS MOVIES ART THEATER must

FAIRLEY’S PHARMACY 7206 NE Sandy Blvd., 503-2841159, fairleyspharmacy.com. Closed Sunday. Fairley’s has been anchoring the Roseway neighborhood since 1913, but it’s vibe is wholly rooted in a ’50s Americana ideal in which a drugstore—which this very much still is—doubled as a vinyl-boothed soda fountain where a soda jerk popped out egg creams, phosphate sodas, malts, and ice cream cones. This isn’t retro kitsch, it’s what retro kitsch aspires to be. The only way it could feel more displaced in time is if you met a kid trying to ward off sexual advances from his teenage future mother.

FOOD BEER NEWS MUSIC ...Portland! wweek.com

NE SANDY BLVD AT 72ND (FAIRLEY'S ON LEFT), 1940 | City of Portland Archives

FINDER 2018

OUTER NORTHEAST

DRINK PIRATE’S COVE

7417 NE Sandy Blvd., 503-287-8900, piratescoveportland.com.

Yes, this is a strip club shaped like a giant jug of rum and populated with leering regulars and curious lookie-loos drawn in by the strange architecture but captivated by the surprisingly friendly dancers, who seem just as surprised to be there at 2 pm as you are. There are better strip clubs. Lots of them. But there’s only one Pirate’s Cove.

MAD HANNA 6129 NE Fremont St., 503-288-2944, madhanna.com.

Mad Hanna has a lot going on: Jell-O shots loaded with Pop Rocks; board games; arcade machines; and a patio that hosts horseshoes and impromptu barbecues. But the miracle of this joint is how absolutely chill the whole affair is. Yes, it looks like a dive bar. But it feels like you’ve been invited into somebody’s house. Or an extended family reunion for relatives who haven’t met yet.

YEN HA 6820 NE Sandy Blvd., 503-287-3698, yenhapdx.com.

You’re probably not at Yen Ha to eat, though the Bible-thick Vietnamese offerings are on point. No, you’re here for the side bar, where well drinks could fuel a rocket and where karaoke nights can swing from lonely to raucous at the drop of a well-selected Neil Diamond track. It’s dark. It’s dingy. It’s the perfect combination of intimidating and friendly. And for many, it’s home.

SECOND PROFESSION BREWING 5846 NE Sandy Blvd., 503-288-5882, secondprofessionbrewing.com.

Portland mourned the death of brewery and Chinese restaurant BTU when it shuttered (probably due to mass public confusion), but Second Profession has risen in its place, offering up German sausages and other bierhall fare with decidedly Reinheitsgebotaverse beers like a creamy farmhouse and a hazy IPA that packs enough citrus and melon to fill a fruit salad.

OUTER NORTHEAST

Rosie Struve

SHOP ED’S HOUSE OF GEMS 7712 NE Sandy Blvd., 503-284-8990. Closed Sunday.

Ed’s is packed to the stalactites with rocks, gems and other precious stones that your neighbor, between bong rips, says have healing powers. But the vibe is unpretentious, and the place also offers up tumblers, hammers and other gear for blossoming rock hounds who comb the coastal beaches for agate and want to make their finds shine.

DR. TONGUE’S I HAD THAT SHOPPE

7129 NE Fremont St., 503-893-1991, drtonguetoys.com. Closed Sunday-Monday.

Like some sort of post-punk spinoff of Toy Story, Dr. Tongue’s is simply loaded to the gills with vintage toys—and those gills are probably attached to some sort of aquatic superhero figure you’ve never heard of. Here, all the discarded kitsch of garage sales past reign in a menagerie where Michael Knight, Mr. Spock, Ewoks and every manner of popculture oddity come to life at night to share stories of cocaine parties.

PROLETARIAT HANDCRAFTED MEAT

GO ROSEWAY THEATER 7229 NE Sandy Blvd., 503-282-2898, rosewaytheater.com.

Ten years ago, this old-school movie house—an endangered species Portland serves as a refuge for—got a face-lift, resurrecting its winding staircase, redoing the seat and sound system, and becoming a rare first-run, one-screen movie house that still sells tickets for less than $10. Oh, and it has the best popcorn in town.

LUMBERYARD 2700 NE 82nd Ave., 503-252-2453, lumberyardmtb.com.

The mountain-biking equivalent of an indoor skate park, this place is a wonderland for bikers who don’t like to get wet, offering ramps, obstacles and launching points to take their fat tires skyward. Plus, Lumberyard has a kickass bar, which you should probably not visit until you’ve hung up your helmet for the day. But hey, you signed a safety waiver, so you do you. YOLO!

6127 NE Fremont St., 206-579-8606, proletariatbutchery.com.

An old-school butchery trafficking in high-end meats, this is the place for serious meatheads only, one where you can obtain a whole lamb, cow or chicken (or, you know, some cuts) and learn to butcher it by taking an in-depth class. Proletariat also has cured meats. Pro tip: Keep an eye out for the onsite breakfasts. WILL AMETTE WEEK

Serving the FInest Flower • Edibles Pre-rolls • Oils Concentrates In the spirit of Aloha

6802 NE Broadway 503-719-6192 www.thegrassshackpdx.com

LUMBERYARD | CJ Monserrat

Do not operate a vehicle or machinery under the influence of this drug. For use only by adults twenty-one years of age and older. Keep out of reach of children.

WWEEK.COM

NEWS ARTS & CULTURE FOOD & DRINK EVENTS MUSIC MOVIES CONTESTS GIVEAWAYS ROSEWAY THEATER | Rosie Struve

FINDER 2018

OUTER NORTHEAST

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CENTRAL EASTSIDE

ELL A RESIDENT OF ANY MIDSIZE metropolis you’re from Portland and they’re bound to show you what they consider the “Portlandy part of town.” It’s likely to be a corner of a some ho-hum residential quadrant that hopes some semblance of bohemia will coalesce around a dive bar, a bike shop and a fancy new third-wave coffee shop, but anyone who’s spent any time in the Portland’s Central Southeast neighborhoods knows its charms aren’t so easily bolted on and declared authentic. There’s something mystical in the air of Buckman, Mount Tabor and Laurelhurst, and it’s not just the rain of the winter and the swirl of pollen in the summer. It’s a feeling of contentment that comes with living in a place that’s just right—where the avenues are as colorful as they are safe and walkable, the parks are lush all year round, and the pockets of nightlife interspersed throughout its residential thoroughfares rival those of much larger cities’ downtowns.

BY PETE COTTELL Born and raised in Akron, Ohio, I moved here in May 2013. I stumbled upon Buckman by accident, and have lived here ever since, washing down nachos with a Tijuana Brass cocktail at Conquistador and hanging at the rooftop at Revolution Hall. NEIGHBORHOOD NOTES In 1956, a youth soapbox derby track was built winding down the slopes of Mount Tabor. That track was abandoned in the ’60s, only to be brought back to life in 1997 by six dudes inspired by the joyful mayhem of an adult soapbox derby when visiting San Francisco’s Mission Hill. Since then, the third Saturday of August brings drivers and their homemade cars—some built for speed, others for irony— to the top of Mount Tabor. Last year, Movie Madness (4320 SE Belmont St.), a beloved movie rental storecum-film museum containing iconic props like the ear from Blue Velvet and the actual pink bar of soap used in posters for Fight Club , was saved from the brink of closure by the Hollywood Theatre (page 89) and $250,000 from more than 3,200 VHS-loving donors.

NEVER COFFEE | Jake Southard

THE PICKS WHERE TO GRAB A CUP OF JOE, BUY WEED, WALK YOUR POOCH, AND PICK UP GROCERIES.

NEVER COFFEE LAB 4243 SE Belmont St. 541-223-3580 nevercoffeelab.com

BELMONT COLLECTIVE 2036 SE Belmont St. 503-477-8953 belmontcollective.com

MOUNT TABOR PARK SE 60th Ave. and Salmon St.

FOOD FIGHT! GROCERY 1217 SE Stark St. 503-233-3910 foodfightgrocery.com

M O U N T TA B O R FEW AMERICAN NEIGHBORHOODS OF THIS STATURE—both geographical and socioeconomic—are as accessible to commoners as Mount Tabor. Though its lofty residential streets spiral endlessly as one ascends its peak, nothing but the altitude of the area stands in the way of anyone with the time and ambition to make it all the way to the top. It’s namesake park is one of Portland’s finest, offering unmatched views of golden sunsets over downtown and the geographically similar but far more chichi environs of the West Hills, and small clusters of beloved bars and bites for visitors up for a pint of beer or a plate of charcuterie while they catch their breath on the way back down. It’s the platonic ideal of “Portland nice”: splendorous, yet unpretentious and available for all.

EAT COQUINE

6839 SE Belmont St., 503-384-2483, coquinepdx.com. Breakfast and lunch Monday-Tuesday, breakfastdinner Wednesday-Sunday.

Since opening in 2015, Coquine has evolved into the kind of relaxed fine dining experience that serves as the platonic ideal of Portland’s culinary good life. Chef Katy Millard brings several years of experience in France to the table at Coquine, imbuing classic dishes from the country with Portland’s focus on farm-to-table sensibilities and unfussy presentation. Seafood dishes like black cod and poached squid show where Millard’s talents can shine, and Coquine is one of few upper-tier restaurants in town that takes lunch and brunch as seriously as dinner service. $-$$$$.

MOUNT TABOR | Henry Cromett

TABOR TAVERN

5325 E Burnside St., 503-208-3544, tabortavern.com. Lunch and dinner daily, brunch weekends.

Elevated pub fare can be an iffy concept when you consider the number of dive bars that get by just fine with tots and cans of Hamm’s, but Tabor Tavern knocks it out of the park with upgraded takes on hearty barroom classics. The salmon BLTA and the mulligatawny with mussels are prime examples of owner Ken Naffziger’s love of bar food as interesting as it is satisfying, at a bar that feels more like a restaurant than the no-frills watering hole it is. $.

must

MOUNT TABOR PARK Southeast 60th Avenue and Salmon Street. With its winding slopes, massive old-growth trees and fantastic views of the westside, Mount Tabor is like a Swiss Army knife of parks. The vantage this former cinder cone offers of the sun setting over downtown is unparalleled, but be sure to watch out for the crews of skaters who love bombing the well-paved roads that spiral downward for a couple miles. Even if the surrounding neighborhood is unaffordable to most, the accessibility and beauty of Mount Tabor Park makes visitors feel wealthy in spirit.

CHEESE BAR

6031 SE Belmont St., 503-222-6014, cheese-bar.com. Lunch and dinner Tuesday-Sunday.

Those guilty of going overboard on cheese samples owe themselves a visit to Cheese Bar. Though it’s best to take advantage of the bar setup by allowing your fromagiere to take you on a dairy-fueled journey with plates of hand-cut cheeses paired with rare wines and whiskeys, it’s also perfect for a grab-and-go shopping experience should the urge to spend $12 on ingredients for a homemade grilled cheese arise. $$.

TABOR BREAD

5051 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 971-279-5530, taborbread.com. Breakfast-early dinner Tuesday-Sunday.

There’s plenty more than just bread at this bakery and cafe on upper Hawthorne, but you won’t need much else than a loaf of its sourdough or olive oil and rosemary bread to get a taste of what makes Tabor Bread awesome. It also slings espresso and pastries to nosh on while you stock up on loaves for the week, so be sure to give yourself a few extra minutes to scope out the wares next time you plan to make a quick stop here. $.

DC VEGETARIAN

5026 SE Division St., 503-374-3388, dcvegetarian.com. Lunch and dinner daily, brunch weekends. Closed Mondays.

CHEESE BAR | Leah Nash

FINDER 2018

Like Lardo for the pork-averse, DC Vegetarian makes massive sandwiches good enough for two meals, all without a single slice of meat. Its breakfast sandwiches are some of the best in the game, and its sandwiches that sub soy curls for chicken—like the Cajun po’boy or the chicken salad—are some of the most satisfying dupes of the real thing in town. $. CENTRAL EASTSIDE

At the start of the 1900s, artists and adventurers rented a room at the Sapphire Hotel for a week, a night or an hour—whatever was necessary for that night's debauchery.

DONUT QUEEN

5842 E Burnside St. Breakfast-late afternoon daily.

Doughnuts are definitely in the portfolio, but what makes Donut Queen royalty on Portland’s pastry circuit are its famous apple fritters, which come doused in sticky sweet cinnamon and have been compared in size to a newborn baby. $.

DRINK SAPPHIRE HOTEL

5008 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 503-232-6333, thesapphirehotel.com.

Formerly the lobby of a hotel room popular with sailors and ladies of the night, Sapphire Hotel maintains just enough of that lawless charm. The menus—thoughtfully divided into three sections: “softhearted,” “heartless” and “shift drinks”—boast all-purpose concoctions that would impress even the most hardened anti-cocktail connoisseur. Try the Most Popular Drink, which features vodka, lime, coconut and orgeat for a libation smooth enough to do its name plenty of justice.

ALBINA PRESS

5012 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 503-974-6584.

Newer third-wave shops often feel sterile and sparse on account of their age, but Albina Press has acquired enough grit in its time to feel like the best of both worlds between the Etsy-chic new school and the dingy charm of the second wave. Try a cappuccino and one of a handful of pastries delivered by Crema (page TK) for a perfect afternoon spent lounging in a cozy cage while copping a caffeine buzz.

CALDERA PUBLIC HOUSE

6031 SE Stark St., 503-233-8242, calderapublichouse.com.

The good vibes at this rustic little pub halfway up Mount Tabor are belied by the fact that it rarely ever looks open, but when it is, it’s one of the best places in the ’hood to sip a beer and snack on some nachos in dark, candlelit peace. What’s even more surprising is a great little patio out back, which often hosts folk and Americana bands of the KBOO radio-approved variety.

CENTRAL EASTSIDE

Emily Joan Greene

THE TANNERY

SEQUEL APPAREL

This wooden hallway of a bar does a fine job of whipping up excellent brown liquor-based cocktails that pair well with its decadent and slightly underpriced charcuterie plates, but the pro move at the Tannery is to engage with a bartender over mutual interests and find out what kind of strange pet project he or she has been mixing up with digestifs like Fernet and Cynar. You’ll win the favor of the bartending industry at large for encouraging such exploration, and your taste buds will receive quite the treat as well.

Sequels Apparel may be the only real clothing store in Portland that strives for an adult-friendly eco-centric vibe over the more countercultural aesthetic of competing establishments found in the Hawthorne or Belmont neighborhoods. It’s a great place to give a pass before heading to the mall to pick up some new work-appropriate duds, and there’s a good chance you’ll find some gently used weekend wear at appealing prices in the racks while you’re at it.

5425 E Burnside St., 503-236-3610, tannerybarpdx.com.

STARK STREET STATION 6049 SE Stark St., 503-880-0543.

This no-frills cafe is one of those rare allpurpose enclosures of just about everything you’d ever need from such a place. There are coffee and breakfast sandwiches to get your day started, a solid selection of panini and pastries to sate your hunger while you hunker down and tap away at a laptop, and a modest but well-curated selection of wine and draft beer to take the edge off until you decide it’s time so succumb to alcohol and declare the workday finished.

SHOP PORTLAND NURSERY

5050 SE Stark St., 503-231-5050, portlandnursery.com.

Whether you’re looking for a few succulents for your apartment or the implements to undergo a full-scale landscaping project at your fancy-pants adult abode, the helpful staff at Portland Nursery make it easy to find exactly what you need from its sprawling acreage in relatively little time. You’ll also find an attractive selection of locally made ceramics and planters, as well as a calendar packed with events and classes that are perfect for amateurs and green thumbs alike.

6000 SE Stark St., 503-235-5610, sequelapparel.com. Closed Sunday.

GO TABORSPACE

5441 SE Belmont St., 503-238-3904, taborspace.org.

A historic church might not sound like an ideal place for a study break, but Taborspace has done marvels with the 36,000-squarefoot building, turning it into a multiuse community center that includes rentable event spaces as well as a coffee shop that’s become a beloved, if a bit quiet, neighborhood hangout since the space first opened in 2009.

YOGA UNION

2305 SE 50th Ave., 503-235-9642, yogaunioncwc.com.

Yoga Union is the mecca of yoga Portland has so rightfully deserved but only recently added to its portfolio. Its location, the Breathe Building, is a sprawling 10,000-square-foot Mega Play of malasana, and it’s the first of its kind to receive Earth Advantage certification. Throughout its many rooms, you’ll find almost every flavor of yoga imaginable as well as delicious farm-to-table food at Fern Kitchen, an acupuncture specialist, a waxing salon, and a colon hydrotherapy clinic. If it’s wellnessrelated and potentially appealing to anyone who embraces the lifestyle of yoga, there’s a good chance it’s available under Yoga Union’s roof.

WILL AMETTE WEEK

S U N N YS I D E DESPITE THE PLETHORA OF PORTLANDIA SKETCHES riffing on its endless grid of colorful bungalows and the perplexingly deferent denizens who make it just so, Sunnyside still embodies a Portland-ness that’s inexplicable to anyone who hasn’t spent an afternoon immersed in its picturesque charm. It’s increasingly difficult to find neighborhoods in booming American cities where nightlife peacefully coexists with sleepy residential expanses, yet the section of Belmont Street between 32nd and 35th avenues is one of Southeast Portland’s busiest and most diverse, with über-hip vegan bars sidling up to speakeasies, Danish minimalism-inspired nightclubs and boutique shopping galore. It truly is the best of both worlds, and an early signpost in the journeys of transplants who long for the walkability of a big city tempered by the friendly neighborhood vibes that make Sunnyside a true jewel in Portland’s crown.

EAT ACCANTO

2838 SE Belmont St., 503-235-4900, accantopdx.com. Dinner nightly, brunch weekends.

Devotees of this classic Italian bistro will revel at the touches head chef Erik Van Kley, who previously worked alongside Le Pigeon mastermind Gabriel Rucker, has brought to Accanto, which include farm-fresh pastas and salads, rich seafood dishes, and a contender for the best gnocchi in town. $$.

KHUN PIC’S BAHN THAI

3429 SE Belmont St., 503-235-1610, khunpics.com. Dinner Wednesday-Saturday.

This charming Thai spot located on the first floor of a house is somewhat of an anomaly compared with similar operations in the area. Rather than muddle its vision with an extensive selection of average dishes meant to please everyone, Khun Pic’s is akin to an Old Portland food cart, with just a handful of choice items like pad thai and pad ke mao served in a cash-only, no-take-out operation. $$. Rosie Struve

must

HORSE BRASS PUB 4534 SE Belmont St., 503-2322202, horsebrass.com. Save a few modern updates here and there, Horse Brass Pub is at it was when Don Younger first bought it in 1976. Until his death in December 2017, Younger’s pub served as a beacon of light in the ascendant craft beer industry, and it’s unlikely much about the place will change in the coming years. Horse Brass Pub’s Scotch eggs and fish and chips are the pub food of legend, and the pub’s access to exclusive kegs like Russian River’s Pliny the Younger or the first wave of Samuel Smith’s Oatmeal Stout is equally renowned.

FINDER 2018

NODOGURO

SAINT CUPCAKE

On account of it being of the most lauded sushi restaurants in America, it’s in your best interest to act quickly in copping tickets to one of their multi-course omakase dinners, which come pre-graded on a “hardcore” scale that’s based on what chef Ryan Roadhouse has up his sleeve for the evening. $$$$.

Why settle for two normal-sized cupcakes when you can get a six-pack of minis for the same caloric intake? With flavors as basic as vanilla cream and as complex as toasted coconut and carrot cake, the Saint Cupcakes strung across the city are a great place to get just the right hit of sugar after lunch.

2832 SE Belmont St., nodoguropdx.com. See website for dinner schedule.

SLAPPY CAKES

4246 SE Belmont St., 503-477-4805, slappycakes.com. Breakfast and lunch daily.

Since waiting in line for brunch has become a competitive sport, what better way to up your game than participate in the actual making of your food? Slappy Cakes offers guests a hibachi-style pancake experience, where you pay per ingredient and throw it all together in a DIY anything-goes manner. Classic plates like huevos rancheros and eggs Benedict are also available, but where’s the fun in that? $.

3300 SE Belmont St., 503-235-0078, saintcupcake.com. Lunch and early dinner daily.

THE BITE ON BELMONT

4255 SE Belmont St. Breakfast-dinner daily.

Formed from the ashes of the Good Food Here cart pod, the Bite on Belmont is the bite-sized new home to classics like Viking Soul Food, Kind Coffee, Fishbox and a small handful of carts displaced by condo development. $.

CENTRAL EASTSIDE

DRINK SWEET HEREAFTER

3326 SE Belmont St., hereafterpdx.com.

This terminally hip vegan bar would be popular no matter what came out of the kitchen, but the fact that it makes killer animal-free bar food that pairs well with colorful Mason jar cocktails and an extensive draft beer list is what puts it over the top. Don’t forget the patio, which is always perfect no matter the season.

THE LIQUOR STORE

3341 SE Belmont St., 503-754-7782, theliquorstorepdx.com.

The Liquor Store is the hip basement party your cool older friend never invited you to. Decked out in records, mood lighting and wood with no less than three layers of lacquer, this nouveau-dive quickly took hold of the neighborhood’s heart after replacing the Blue Monk in 2015. There’s often a DJ spinning records upstairs on the weekend, but if the party upstairs isn’t turnt enough, then head to the basement for a steadily rotating cast of live indie rock, hip-hop and EDM.

AALTO LOUNGE

3356 SE Belmont St., 503-235-6041, aaltolounge.com.

Impossibly cheap happy-hour food and drinks, like $3 paloma Jell-O shots or a grilled cheese and tomato soup, are lowcommitment favorites for a steady stream of Tinder dates, but Aalto’s midcentury swank extends well past 7 pm thanks to its stylish interior, inexpensive beers and tasteful curation of local DJs who are usually drinking here on their nights off anyway.

BELMONT INN

3357 SE Belmont St., 503-232-1998, belmontsinn.com.

Belmont Inn is that rare neighborhood sports bar that doesn’t let its affinity for beer-adjacent viewing get in the way of everyone else’s good time. The karaoke here is particularly rawkus, the Big Buck Hunter machine is always in use, and the Classic burger may be the most monstrous heap of meat you’ll find anywhere within a 2-mile radius at a paltry price of $8.25.

SWEET HEREAFTER | CJ Monserrat

THE TAO OF TEA

3430 SE Belmont St., 503-736-0119, taooftea.com.

Bearing down on its 21st year of existence, the Tao of Tea’s original Belmont location is like the platonic ideal of what a Portland tea room should be. You’ll probably hear deep cuts from a Pure Moods record while sipping from a pot of rarer oolong harvest amid the seating area’s rustic bamboo-heavy bric-a-brac.

SOMA KOMBUCHA

3777 SE Belmont St., 503-980-4065, somakombucha.com.

Soma's bizarre automated setup is a surrogate for drinking fresh draft lemon-ginger or blueberry-lavender kombucha in an environment that feels a lot like the furniture section of Cost Plus World Market.

THE NERD OUT

3308 SE Belmont St., 503-233-1225, thenerdoutpdx.com.

At this brand-new nerd-themed game bar, the only outcasts are mainstreamers trying to be nerds. With an extensive library of games to demo as well as drinks with names like “Adam West” and “Spider-Manhattan,” consider it a happening substitute for another night in the garage or basement.

CIRCA 33

3348 SE Belmont St., 503-477-7682, circa33.com.

An extensive whiskey list and a mighty impressive burger are Circa 33’s most obvious attractions, but every now and then, the “hidden room” behind the bookshelf hosts open-mic and comedy nights.

100 CENTRAL EASTSIDE

SOMA | CJ Monserrat

WILL AMETTE WEEK

SHOP NAKED CITY

2701 SE Belmont St., 503-239-3837, nakedcityclothing.com.

Rooted in ’90s romanticization of the ’50s and ’60s, Naked City is a dreamlike shopping experience for mods, retro-futurists and all manner of counterculture adherents. If vintage party dresses or Tommy Bahamas aren't your thing, there’s a also a massive collection of inexpensive trinkets like cheap sunglasses, magnets and other assorted kitsch items that make perfect gifts for friends who felt the 2001 ScarJo film Ghost World quite deeply.

GO AVALON THEATRE & WUNDERLAND

3451 SE Belmont St., 503-238-1617, wunderlandgames.com/avalontheatre.asp.

MOONSHADOW

Need a new cauldron? Perhaps some crystals or a fresh deck of tarot cards? Moonshadow—Portland’s premier emporium for all things pagan, Wiccan and beyond—probably has what you need. It’s also the office for the local Order of the Sacred Oaks, meaning sacred rites and pagan marriage are available right here in the city.

CJ Monserrat

Avalon Theatre & Wunderland is one of those few rainy-day entertainment options almost anyone can agree on. The nickel games are a great way to kill a few hours no matter how old you are, and the movie theater is a cheap and under-the-radar choice for blockbuster movies you certainly don’t need to spend over $15 to see when a charmingly shabby place like Avalon will do the trick.

3819 SE Belmont St., 503-235-5774, moonshadowmagick.com.

TWILL

3352 SE Belmont St., 503-922-2084, twillclothing.com.

If you’re ever in line at New Seasons behind a stylish young woman who looks as comfortable as she looks put together, there’s a good chance part of her wardrobe came from Twill. Focusing on warm, classic colors that honor all shapes and sizes, think of Twill as a forward-thinking answer to the formless anti-fashion that can be a side effect of nine months of rain a year.

NOUN

3300 SE Belmont St., 503-235-0078, shopnoun.com.

Twee doodads and Wes Anderson-esque knickknacks are the bread and butter at Noun, but this precious little boutique attached to Saint Cupcake really comes to life the first Thursday of every month, when it hosts a letter-writing workshop, complete with bubbly, colorful pens and a vintage typewriter for guests to use. FINDER 2018

NAKED CITY | CJ Monserrat

CENTRAL EASTSIDE

101

EAT BUCKMAN

NOSTRANA

FRESH ÉMIGRÉS TO PORTLAND ARE SHOCKED when an Old Portlander waxes poetic about the “good old days” when Buckman was a grimy waypoint for punks and hippies who couldn’t hack it across the Willamette. The vibrant rebranding of this grid of old Victorians and Portlandy creature comforts makes that story tough to sell these days, as tourists stroll the area in search of their own fantasy life in Portland. It’s an intoxicating experience dampened only by the increasingly high demand (and price) for it, but the ethos of Buckman being a better place to live than the westside regardless of price is a resilient notion that will define the neighborhood long after its final vandwellers and transients are jettisoned for good.

1401 SE Morrison St., No. 101, 503-234-2427, nostrana.com. Lunch and dinner Monday-Friday, dinner Saturday-Sunday.

Rivaled by very few, chef Cathy Whims’ approach to classic Italian fare is a beacon of light in a city often allergic to white tablecloths. Few dining experiences are as transcendent as her gnocchi—currently offered only on Thursdays—alongside the Insalata Nostrana and a perfect Negroni to wash it down. And now that Whims has enveloped the space next door, the hourslong queues can be spent sipping wine at Enoteca Nostrana. $$-$$$.

MEAT CHEESE BREAD

1406 SE Stark St., 503-234-1700, meatcheesebread.com. Breakfast-dinner daily.

must

REVOLUTION HALL 1330 SE Stark St., 503-288-3895, revolutionhall.com. If Pioneer Square fancies itself “Portland’s living room,” then Revolution Hall is its super-chill veranda, where the cool kids would rather hang out. The concert hall transformed the old wooden-seated auditorium of Washington High School into the perfect midsized venue for shows too mellow for the Wonder yet too intimate for the Schnitz, and the rooftop patio that opened last summer offers views of the sun setting over downtown. New Portland is slim on experiences that appeal to everyone, but there’s a good chance Rev Hall is as close as it gets.

Sandwiches needn’t be complicated to be tasty, so why bother with a name steeped in symbolism or subtext? At this unfussy sandwich counter, classic deli ingredients commingle with fresh veggies and housemade sauces for lunchtime classics that pair greatly with a beer from Beer, its equally uncomplicated brew bar next door. $.

FARM SPIRIT

1414 SE Morrison St., farmspiritpdx.com. Dinner Wednesday-Saturday.

Promising to “connect our diners to the Cascadian bioregion with the bounty of the forest, farm and field,” Farm Spirit is as classy as it gets for veggie-based dining experiences in a multicourse, prix fixe format that’s reservation-only. $$$$.

SWEETPEA BAKING CO.

1205 SE Stark St., 503-477-5916, sweetpeabaking.com. Breakfast-early dinner daily.

You’ve probably seen the rich and tasty all-vegan pastries from Sweetpea on the shelves of New Seasons or your local co-op, but the best way to enjoy them is with a cup of coffee at the site of their birth, in what’s known colloquially as Portland’s “vegan strip mall.” $.

SMOKEHOUSE TAVERN

1401 SE Morrison St., No. 117, 971-279-4850, smokehousetavernpdx.com. Lunch and dinner daily, brunch weekends.

Located in an out-of-place strip mall among Buckman’s stately Victorians, Smokehouse Tavern proves you don’t need pasted-on dive bar chic to qualify as a desirable locale for house-smoked pulled pork and brisket. Chef BJ Smith favors sweeter styles of ’cue and a menu best navigated by choosing a protein first and the fixin’s later, as well as an underrated weekend brunch that’s sorely underutilized at the time of this printing. $.

Thomas Teal

102

CENTRAL EASTSIDE

WILL AMETTE WEEK

CRICKET CAFE

CONQUISTADOR LOUNGE

TRIUMPH COFFEE

The ownership of Jam on Hawthorne revived this beloved Belmont Street breakfast nook last October, bringing back to life its playful, protein-heavy menu that features hangover-crushing dishes like pancetta hash and a prosciutto Monte Cristo. $-$$.

Ostensibly a Spaniard-themed bar that feels a lot like a set from Boogie Nights, Conquistador has rightfully earned its place as one of Buckman’s most popular watering holes on account of lightning-fast tequila cocktails, staggering plates of vegetarian nachos and a secluded upstairs with a gold lamé couch.

With a full menu of breakfast goodies available in a relaxed coffee-shop environment, Triumph carefully toes the line between casual laptop lounge and bustling Buckman brunch joint.

3159 SE Belmont St., 503-235-9348, cricketcafepdx.com. Breakfast and lunch daily.

DRINK ENSO URBAN WINERY

1416 SE Stark St., 503-683-3676, ensowinery.com.

Heralded as WW’s 2014 Bar of the Year for its vision of how a neighborhood wine bar could and should be, Enso remains an unstuffy, approachable standby. The delicate lighting and garage chic make it a fantastic date-night spot, while its user-friendly menu and pricing make it a perfect place to pregame with wine before a show at nearby Revolution Hall.

THE NEST

2715 SE Belmont St., 2715 SE Belmont St., 503-7649023.

Now six years removed from its original Alberta location that was lost in a fire, most of the regulars at the Nest are just here to drink rather than pay respects. Located in an old split-level house that boasts a pingpong table, a much-beloved patio and an upstairs game room, it is indeed a very popular place to do just that.

2045 SE Belmont St., 503-232-3227.

RIMSKY-KORSAKOFFEE HOUSE 707 SE 12th Ave., 503-232-2640.

Writing publicly about this gem of a coffee house hidden in plain view feels wrong, but it’s been flying below the radar long enough now that its crowd of adherents shouldn't feel at all threatened by the public knowing just how great its desserts, espresso drinks and old-timey ambience are.

A ROADSIDE ATTRACTION 1000 SE 12th Ave., 503-233-0743.

In spite of the uptick in bigger, more modern bars that accept cash nearby, few have achieved the levels of kitsch and coziness that make Roadside Attraction such a splendid place to enjoy a smoke and a vodka soda after work with friends. The fire pits are dearly missed, but the odd outside seating arrangements and the shabby- chic interior are still doing wonders to preserve a distinct vibe.

201 SE 12th Ave., 971-229-1631, triumphcoffeepdx.com.

CRUSH BAR

1400 SE Morrison St., 503-235-8150, crushbar.com.

Aside from the section of Southwest Stark Street near Scandals, Portland doesn’t have much of a “gayborhood” to speak of, but that does little to stop the crowd at Crush from creating one every night. Part dive bar, part clubhouse, Crush hosts events like Lumberjacks Do Bingo! and femme comedy nights on a regular basis, making it an essential waypoint for queer culture in Southeast.

BEER

1410 SE Stark St., 503-233-2337.

Like its aptly named sandwich-shop brother next door, Beer is a no-nonsense venue for the unhurried and unpretentious consumption of Portland’s most popular beverage.

HUNGRY TIGER

213 SE 12th Ave., 503-233-0743.

Buckman is no stranger to vegan food, but Hungry Tiger holds a special place in the hearts of herbivores for its focus on being an actual bar rather than a bona fide vegan restaurant. The vegan “vings” made with tofu from nearby Ota Tofu are as popular as ever, as is the patio and the vast selection of pinball machines and other idle amusements.

RIMSKY-KORSAKOFFEE HOUSE | Emma Browne

FINDER 2018

CENTRAL EASTSIDE

103

SHOP FOOD FIGHT! GROCERY

1217 SE Stark St., 503-233-3910, foodfightgrocery.com.

If only every grocery store in town could be as expertly curated as Food Fight, then perhaps the prospect of cooking for oneself would cease to feel like such a chore. Essentially a high-end convenience store for vegans, the beating heart of Portland’s “vegan strip mall” is a pleasant alternative to the sprawl of bigger operations like Whole Foods and New Seasons, offering a surprisingly complete selection of grocery staples, junk food and grab-and-go items alike.

DEVOUT RCRDS

636 SE 11th Ave., devoutrcrds.bandcamp.com. Noon-8 pm Saturday.

Though its hours are limited, a trip to Devout is always worth it for fresh pressings of fiercely independent Portland metal. Acts like Leviathan and Dark Castle are the backbone (and projects of its owners, Jef Whitehead and Stevie Floyd), and you can also find two truly great independent printers— Eberhardt Press and Printed Matter—under the same roof.

F.H. STEINBART CO.

234 SE 12th Ave., 503-232-8793, fhsteinbart.com.

Whether you’re an aspiring garage brewer searching for that trendy new malt or the guy tasked with finding a CO 2 tap for your nonprofit’s beer event, this almost-centuryold brewer supply store has you covered. Brewing classes and first-timer kits are a great place for aspiring hobbyists to start, and F.H Steinbart also offers supplies, tips and knowledge for non-alcoholic ventures like kombucha and essential-oil distillation.

GO HOLOCENE

1001 SE Morrison St., 503-239-7639, holocene.org.

Calling Holocene a nightclub never seems like a completely fair assessment of this popular Buckman venue. Sure, it hosts all manner of booty-bumping events like Verified or Beyoncé-themed nights, but pigeonholing it as a province of turnt is to ignore everything else that happens under its massive industrial ceilings, such as Moth storytelling, book releases and indie, punk and emo shows that often sell out months in advance.

COLONEL SUMMERS PARK Southeast 17th Avenue and Taylor Street.

Every transient and trust funder’s favorite party park has lost a bit of its charm since park rangers cracked down on the notoriously rawkus Monday Fundays that often ended in gatherings that felt like Burning Man regionals. But Colonel Summers is still an awesome green space for throwing a Frisbee and catching some rays while waiting for the No. 15 bus to take you back to reality.

HERBIVORE

1211 SE Stark St., 503-281-8638, herbivoreclothing.com.

Half the point of being vegan is telling anyone who will listen about your lifestyle, so why stop at solicited conversations when you can rock the message loud and clear across your body? Boost up your steez at this vegan boutique packed with quality clothing meant to let the world know you’re animal-free and damn proud of it.

OLO FRAGRANCE

1407 SE Belmont St., 503-970-1173, olofragrance.com.

When Heather Sielaff smells a fragrance, she sees an aura. She feels a mood. The self-taught parfumier opened OLO in 2009, crafting fragrances not meant to make a statement, but unique elemental additions that complement your life and your chemistry, your mood or the day at hand.

104 CENTRAL EASTSIDE

FOOD FIGHT! | Henry Cromett

WILL AMETTE WEEK

LONE FIR CEMETERY

Southeast 26th Avenue and Stark Street, 503-7971709.

This leafy cemetery is as spooky as they come at night, but itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not at all uncommon to find joggers, dog walkers and teenagers from nearby Central Catholic High School using Lone Fir as a city park of sorts during the daytime. Familiar names like Hoyt, Hawthorne and Lovejoy are easily spotted, and there is a memorial in the works for the many departed patients of a former asylum and Chinese immigrants as well.

ADX

417 SE 11th Ave., 503-915-4342, adxportland.com.

Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re stuck in a shoebox apartment and desperately in need of a circular saw for some DIY furnishings. What to do? The answer is a membership at ADX, which is available by the day and offers access to a massive library of wood- and metalworking tools, upholstery equipment, a 3-D printer and, most importantly, the knowledge to use the equipment without losing a finger.

LONE FIR CEMETERY | Rosie Struve

Your future is in Your hands Champions Barbering Institute, Inc. (CBI) educates students in Portland and the surrounding areas. We provide high-quality education within small class sizes to help students learn new techniques, develop new skills, and open doors to a rewarding future in a timeless profession. Grow your skill set with us and expand your mind, all at the same time. Get in touch with us today to learn more.

Build with us: the next generation of professional BarBers. classic and trendY cuts on all hair textures!

424 ne Killingsworth st. portland or 97211

FINDER 2018

Phone: 503-477-5616

$10 haircut $12 hot towel shave $12 signature facial

CALL NOW FOR APPOINTMENTS 503.477.5616

5 star service

BOOK ONLINE CBI.LIFE

web: cBi.life

Social: @cBi_life

CENTRAL EASTSIDE

105

DEEP SOUTHEAST

HE COLLECTION OF NEIGHBORHOODS colloquially referred to as Deep Southeast Portland is as distinct as the city gets these days. As a result, the twee monoculture that pervades the more centralized areas of Portland has yet to find a stable hold here. That being said, the buzz surrounding Deep Southeast lately seems like an affectionate way of grooming the area for the next phase of development. Trailing not far behind is the subsequent displacement of communities that have been thriving here for decades. What some would tout as an “up and coming” area, actually up and came long ago. Deep Southeast has a long history of working-class people, many of them being Asian and Eastern European immigrants. These communities have been calling this area home seemingly forever, bringing their strong cultural identity with them—an identity that still glues the neighborhoods of Montavilla, Lents, and Foster-Powell together.

BY TYLER ALEXANDER After living in Oregon for two-thirds of my life with half of that being in the Portland area, I guess I identify as an Oregonian. Graphic design is my passion, but when I’m not at work, I’m probably eating at Yuan Su, curating and creating memes under @trigunwinampskin on Instagram, or having a drink at Thunderbird. NEIGHBORHOOD NOTES In May 1941, then-28-yearold Woody Guthrie rented a 400-square-foot apartment near 92nd and Foster. He’d been hired to write songs promoting the building of new dams along the Columbia River for the Bonneville Power Administration. When President Obama signed the Local Community Radio Act in 2010, opening up low-power FM signals across the country, Eduard Rusu began broadcasting out of a church in a Deep Southeast Portland strip mall. KXRU 105.5 FM is still America’s only all-Russian pop radio station.

105.5 FM | Abby Gordon

THE PICKS WHERE TO GRAB A CUP OF JOE, BUY WEED, WALK YOUR POOCH, AND PICK UP GROCERIES.

CARNELIAN COFFEE 6923 SE Foster Road carneliancoffee.com Closed Monday.

BUDLANDIA 16440 SE Division St. 503-805-2871 budlandiapdx.com

MONTAVILLA SOCIAL CLUB 8012 NE Glisan St. 503-257-7343

FUBONN SHOPPING CENTER 2850 SE 82nd Ave. 503-517-8899 fubonn.com

M O N TAV I L L A

MUCH OF THE NEIGHBORHOOD on the back end of Mount Tabor now known as Montavilla was farmland owned by a successful Japanese immigrant named Sadaji Shiogi and his family. The land was stolen during World War II, when the Shiogi family was sent to an internment camp in Idaho. The name Montavilla has nothing to do with the original owner but is derived from the abbreviation for the streetcar stop in the neighborhood, previously named Mount Tabor Village. The name still feels appropriate to its “tiny mountain town untouched by time” vibe. Contrasting with the quaint charm of Montavilla is the bustling and maximalist area surrounding Mall 205 and beyond, which isn’t lacking for gems either.

EAT

SE STARK AT 80TH, LOOKING NORTHWEST, 1939 | Courtesy of City of Portland Archives

must

TIENDA SANTA CRUZ

24 SE 82nd Ave., 503-408-1115. Breakfast-dinner daily.

The much smaller sister location of the store and restaurant of the same name in St. Johns, Tienda Santa Cruz in Montavilla is constantly packed during the lunch hour, with good reason. Service here is quick, the food is cheap and delicious ($1.50 tacos are a no-brainer), and there is a nice selection of grocery items surrounding the dining area. $.

GEN X 7999 SE Powell Blvd., 503-771-0199, gogenx.com. MTV Sports and Music Festival, 1997, Memphis. I’m 7, watching Rob Zombie play while skateboarders skate a massive half pipe, drinking Mountain Dew in my JNCO Jeans with a wallet chain. This is the moment when my lifetime soft spot for “extreme” culture begins. Walking into Gen X feels a lot like that fateful night. In a time and place where retail streetwear is mostly curated to the point of sterilization, there is something immensely refreshing about walking into a store and buying a shirt with Stewie Griffin as Al Pacino in Scarface on it instead of a boutique beard oil—or having a hoodie printed at Gen X’s kiosk with Bugs Bunny holding a smoking gun instead of buying some $200 longline T-shirt.

LOS GORDITOS

4937 SE Division St., 971-865-2160, losgorditos.com. Breakfast-dinner daily.

Everyone in Portland knows Los Gorditos. It’s a Portland institution, notable for accommodating omnivore and vegan eaters alike. The Montavilla location features an all-vegan menu and is a solid addition to the Gateway vegan compound—the trifecta of Los Gorditos, Jet Black Coffee and Food Fight! grocery. $.

ROMAN RUSSIAN

10918 SE Division St., 503-408-7525. Breakfastdinner daily.

Russian is the third-most-spoken language in Oregon, and Outer Southeast’s booming population goes to the extensive deli selection at this Eastern European market for prepared foods and meats, beautiful baked goods and, most importantly, good-as-hell pierogis. $.

TORTILLERIA Y TIENDA DE LEON

16223 NE Glisan St., 503-255-4356, salsaslocas.com. Breakfast-dinner daily.

I first stumbled on this place as a greasy, purpled-haired 23-year-old punk saving money for tour by donating my plasma to CSL next door. Then, I fell in love with De Leon at first bite. The menu item everyone raves about here is the molten cheese-filled, infant-sized chile relleno burrito. I’m not one to disagree. $$. FINDER 2018

GEN X | Christine Dong

DEEP SOUTHEAST

107

BUI’S NATURAL TOFU

520 NE 76th Ave., 503-254-6132, buisnaturaltofu.com. Breakfast-dinner daily.

I’ve eaten Bui’s salad rolls from New Seasons many times. This Montavilla location carries those rolls for 3 bucks, but there is so much more here. The varieties of tofu made in-house are worth the stop based on price alone; their freshness makes me question if I’ll ever buy packaged tofu in a grocery store again. $.

DRINK TIK TOK

3330 SE 82nd Ave., 503-775-9564, tiktokrestaurant. com. Closed Christmas.

This divey bar and diner feels like the heart of the main drag on 82nd. Contrary to many racist and classist Yelp reviews, this is not a “sketchy” place by any means. Rather, Tik Tok is equal parts diner and bar, an institution for the hungover or soon-to-be-hungover, where breakfast is always on and greasy food is available 24/7.

BUI'S NATURAL TOFU | Christine Dong

MONTAVILLA BREW WORKS

7805 SE Stark St., 503-954-3440, montavillabrew.com. Closed Monday.

Located behind Mount Tabor’s girthy backend, this brewpub nestles its indoor seating among the brewing equipment and boasts a nice-sized patio in summer. There’s a wide variety of beer on offer (14 taps), but the Jerry Berry is one of my favorite local sours.

VINTAGE COCKTAIL LOUNGE

7907 SE Stark St., 971-242-8729, vintagepdx.com.

The “neighborhood bar” distinction cannot simply be claimed—it must be earned. This is how the Vintage Cocktail Lounge thrives where other craft cocktail bars struggle: creating an environment where the neighborhood actually wants to hang out. Enjoy house creations like the Rabbit Hole (bourbon, Pedro Ximénez sherry, Avèze and dandelion bitters; $11) or a properly made old-fashioned without any hint of pretension.

TWIN PINES COUNTRY CLUB 8434 SE Clay St., 971-361-4653, twinpinescountryclub.com.

ZERO DEGREES | Liz Allan

ZERO DEGREES

8220 SE Harrison St., 503-772-1500, zerodegreescompany.com. Lunch-late daily

The constant line out the door at this place has both intrigued and deterred me since Zero Degrees opened. I finally gave it a shot: Sticking out the 25-minute line was well worth it. Try the mangonada, a chunky mango slush topped with chamoy and Tajin, from an expansive drink menu listing boba, blended fruit concoctions, and split cups when you can’t choose.

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Yes, it is possible to golf for free. Twin Pines Country Club is actually an unused side yard that has been transformed into a secret mini golf course for everyone, for free. Quirks and twee factor aside, Twin Pines feels like a really radical and nice way of opening your space to neighbors and building community. Balls and clubs are provided, as well.

ALL AMERICAN MAGIC PDX

SHOP BOO HAN ORIENTAL MARKET 1313 SE 82nd Ave., 503-254-8606.

A great spot on the eastside to grab banchan, Korean meats and jap che. Plenty of Korean food, as well as a smaller selection of Japanese items.

9900 SE Washington St., 503-995-7379, magicpdx. com.

Mark Benthimer’s magic shop and theater in the dying interior of Mall 205 is a testament to his DIY work ethic. The immense amount of work and love pumped by Benthimer, his family and associates into every aspect of their two-hour live show is palpable and can make any skeptic at the very least perplexed and amazed, if not a believer. Showtimes and tickets can be found on the website. WILL AMETTE WEEK

LENTS THIS IS A BLUE-COLLAR NEIGHBORHOOD with a diverse, multicultural population. So there’s still both a vibrancy and a patina in Lents that associate it with “Old Portland.” The town of Lent (we don’t know why it was later pluralized) was initially established in 1866 by an Ohio stone mason, Oliver Lent. Lents made do as an entirely separate community—until it was subsumed by Portland proper in 1912. It still feels separate, mostly by the way of the historical precedent of neglect: The roads continue to evidence the city’s misplaced funding priorities, and sprouting clusters of vacant businesses don’t prove otherwise.

EAT EL NUTRI TACO

8436 SE Woodstock Blvd., 503-788-3492, elnutritacopdx.com. Breakfast-dinner MondaySaturday.

Christine Dong

Offering a myriad of options for vegans and omnivores alike, it’s no wonder El Nutri Taco has been a Portland staple for a decade. It can be hard to find a seat in the brickand-mortar location on Alberta, but ENT’s Woodstock cart is the perfect distance to grab vegan nachos (everyone’s favorite) and stroll to Lents Park. $.

A LITTLE NECTAR

8320 SE Woodstock Blvd., 971-278-4521.

The name doesn’t lie. This coffee shop serving vegan and gluten waffles is really tiny, but it is not to be missed. The petite menu manages to fulfill every craving, from an apple pie waffle ($11) topped with apples and cinnamon plus a savory option topped with mushroom gravy and optional sausage ($12). $.

PUPUSERIA EL BUEN GUSTO

7732 SE 82nd Ave., 503-477-4402, pupuseriapdx.com. Breakfast-dinner daily.

Diagonally across the street from Cartlandia on 82nd, Pupuseria el Buen Gusto is unassuming and easy to miss, with a bare-bones interior to boot. The standouts are the Salvadoran offerings: massive, delicious pupusas with many vegetarian and vegan options available at ridiculously low prices. $.

DOE DONUTS

8201 SE Powell Blvd., 503-333-4404, doedonuts.com. Breakfast and lunch Wednesday-Monday.

Although the vegan desserts served at Doe narrowly fit the technical classification of “doughnuts,” they far exceed expectations. Doe’s tiny location in a Powell strip mall offers doughnuts daily year-round as well as a mouthwatering selection of rotating seasonal donuts. Recently, the chicken-’n’-waffles and yuzu-filled donuts have been standout specials. $$.

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DRINK ZOIGLHAUS BREWING COMPANY 5716 SE 92nd Ave., 971-339-2374, zoiglhaus.com.

The combination of this German brewery and restaurant’s sheer size, with its 10 taps of in-house brews, plus a nice menu of well-executed German food like the bier cheese spatzle ($5) makes this the ideal spot to take my large, rosy and cherubic German sons out to a family dinner if I had them. Try Zoigl’s German take on hoppy Portland IPAs with the Hopfenbombe, which aptly translates to “bomb of hops.”

EAGLE EYE TAVERN

5836 SE 92nd Ave., 503-774-2141.

Eagle Eye has more of a distinctly divey, neighborhood-bar feel than Zoiglhaus up the block, but you can always count on perks like an open pool table and a cider or two on tap. The brightly colored bar area opens into another room with a small stage where karaoke gets rowdy.

SHOP GOOD NEIGHBOR STORE 4107 SE 82nd Ave., 503-771-5171.

This small but well-stocked market and deli is loaded with a cornucopia of Eastern European food. I find something new every time I visit. Make sure to take advantage of the ample selection of imported candies, pastries and probiotic items—which range from housemade sauerkraut and pickles to a wide range of kefir and farmer cheese.

must

YUAN SU 11140 SE Powell Blvd., 503-4775775, yuan-su-veg.com. For better or worse, this is my personal Cheers. It’s a place where everyone knows my greasy, bloated, vegan face. That’s because I’m here several times a week. Why? The vegan Chinese fare is really nostalgic—just as I find this part of town. Yuan Su reminds me of a simpler time in Portland, when I would get very high with friends and go out to eat at one of the many now-closed Supreme Master cult restaurants. Solid, meatfree versions of Americanized Chinese staples make an eerie kind of sense in a strange and cavernous building that is only ever half-used. My standard order is the sizzling rice soup (with extra sizzling rice), followed by Combo #1 (veggie ham fried rice, veggie chicken with broccoli, and spring roll). $.

BEARLY READ BOOKS

16441 SE Powell Blvd., 503-667-9669.

This is a charming place to get lost in that’s another reminder of the patina of Old Portland. Attached to a mini-mart at the base of Powell Butte, Bearly Read Books is heavy on used fiction—and cheap. Shopping here can be overwhelming and slightly claustrophobic, as books fill every spare inch of the already small building from floor to ceiling. But you’ll come out the other side with almost all your money and a stack of gems in tow. WILL AMETTE WEEK

GO CENTURY 16 EASTPORT PLAZA 4040 SE 82nd Ave., 503-772-1111.

Portland sports plenty of local theaters with their own quaint charm. I say: Keep ’em. That goes for all that bourgeois artisanal popcorn, too—I’d rather go to Century 16 any day and sit in one of those incredibly large seats (dubbed “Luxury Loungers”) after grabbing neon snacks from the pick ’n’ mix in the maximalist lobby with echoes of Michael Graves’ Portland Building.

LENTS PARK 4808 SE 92nd Ave.

Contains, hands down, my favorite neighborhood jogging path. Tall oaks and Douglas firs spot the lawn, broken up by a community garden, an unfenced dog park and a playground. Also home to Portland Pickles games in the warmer months. Rosie Struve

KINGPINS BOWLING ALLEY

3550 SE 92nd Ave., 503-788-7889, mykingpins.com.

A sensory overload of family fun. Opened in 2016, this sprawling Dave & Buster’s-style bowling alley pretty much has it all. Start with 32 standard bowling lanes. Add in a more adult-oriented Taphouse bar and grill area—with eight more lanes in a “loungestyle atmosphere.” But the kiddos are on the forefront: Save the raunchy bowling names for Grand Central (page TK ).

POWELL BUTTE NATURE PARK 16160 SE Powell Blvd.

Out Powell, past the chaos of 82nd, is a place that feels a hundred miles away from the city. At Powell Butte, there are miles of trails to hike, run or mountain bike, accompanied by amazing views of the surrounding mountains and a nice split in terrain between forest and meadows.

DOE DONUTS | Nino Ortiz

FINDER 2018

DEEP SOUTHEAST

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FOSTER-POWELL ONCE THE WIDEST STREET IN PORTLAND (with 17-foot-wide sidewalks modeled on Parisian boulevards), Foster Road is now an auto-centric artery for Portland’s traffic. But all that’s about to change, courtesy of the Foster Transportation and Streetscape Project—much to the chagrin of the folks at Euroclassic Furniture, as evidenced by all the handmade signs in their windows. The transition back to a more pedestrian-centric Foster is just another signifier that Foster-Powell is on the way up and has been for a while. Hell, it goes by FoPo now.

EAT

must

THUNDERBIRD

5339 SE Foster Road, lightningbarcollectivepdx.com. Dinner to late daily.

Attached to Foster Burger, Thunderbird is a dark and cozy bar concept from Lightning Bar Collective, following in the footsteps of other locations like Century, Jackknife and the Bye and Bye. Sharing Foster Burger’s kitchen, Thunderbird, whose patio is open till 2 am, offers plenty of options for vegetarians and omnivores alike. Great drink specials, including $2 Olympias, and Impossible Burger sliders at happy hour from 4 to 6, a nice little deck, and some of the friendliest service in Portland. $$.

Sam Gehrke

OFF THE GRIDDLE 6526 SE Foster Road, 503-764-9160, offthegriddle. com. Breakfast and dinner daily. Closed Tuesday. The owners of the tiny vegetarian brunch spot A.N.D. Cafe melded with their retro veggie burger joint Off the Griddle on Foster, creating a vegetarian diner powerhouse. Handmade leek, mushroom and wild rice OTG burgers—as well as boozy milkshakes—hold down the dinner menu. A.N.D. brunch is served only on weekends, with a standout sweet and savory gluten-free waffle. As the sibling of a celiac who has eaten a lot of really horrible gluten-free “bread” and baked goods, I am thrilled to tell you these are some of the best gluten-free waffles out there. $$.

MIXTECA

7238 SE Foster Road, 503-395-7022, mixtecapdx.com. Breakfast-dinner daily.

Just one of the many excellent carts in the beloved Portland Mercado, Mixteca serves up massive burrito-sized tamales. While the tamales are delicious and impressive, the Oaxacan mole in all its earthy, smoky and not-too-sweet glory is the real MVP at Mixteca. I wish I could order it by the gallon. $.

HENRY HIGGINS BOILED BAGELS

6420 SE Foster Road, 971-271-8613, hhboiledbagels. com. Breakfast daily.

You know those skinny little anemic bagels you find around Portland that feel as if they’re going to break a tooth with each toasty bite? There are none to be found here. In this gluten-filled heaven, the bagels are tenderly crafted N.Y. style, as the name implies. $.

PORTLAND MERCADO

7238 SE Foster Road, 971-200-0581.

While the nine Latino food carts, including a churro cart, outside may be what draws you in, the meat market and store inside will have you coming back to this community center/startup incubator regularly to stock up. The Mercado also hosts events from Spanish-speaking practice nights to the allages Fiesta Caribeña. $. FINDER 2018

AN XUYEN BAKERY

5345 SE Foster Road, 503-788-0866. Breakfast-dinner daily. Closed Monday.

At least in the circles I run in, An Xuyen has been elevated to almost legendary status as a bakery and sandwich spot—as I can attest: I’ve been frequenting it for years. You’ll find some of the best bahn mi in town here, featuring An Xuyen’s truly excellent housebaked bread. Of other baked goods, my favorite are the cream horns. $.

DRINK DA’ HUI

6504 SE Foster Road, 503-477-7224, dahui.bar.

Da’ Hui is less a tiki bar and more of a neighborhood dive with an expansive Hawaiian menu. This is not to throw any shade on Da’ Hui, as I find the food and tropical drinks delightful and the environment conducive to drunkenly pretending I don’t live in the rainy Pacific Northwest. If you feel like straying from a mai tai or blue Hawaiian, try the Elvis Chi Chi made with Three Olives Elvis Coconut Water Vodka, coconut cream and pineapple juice.

THE LION’S EYE TAVERN 5919 SE 82nd Ave., 503-774-1468.

The vibe at the Lion’s Eye is like a house party with high school friends who grew up, slowed down and now appreciate craft beer, which runs $4.50 a pint or $15 a pitcher. The taps rotate regularly and offer a greatest-hits lineup of Oregon breweries, with handles of blood orange sour from Wild Ride Brewing and Occidental hefeweizen on a recent trip.

XOCOTL

7238 SE Foster Road, 971-222-8513.

A brand-new juice spot has taken over the previous Fruit Box space in the Portland Mercado. Xocotl uses produce from local farmers markets and is a great addition to the Mercado, where the seasonal mangonada is a reason all its own to look forward to summer: chamoy sauce, mangos, lime juice and chili powder—all decorated with a tamarind straw. DEEP SOUTHEAST

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SHOP TOP TO BOTTOM

5420 SE 82nd Ave., Suite A, 503-774-2075.

This emporium of randomness is like a swap meet, boasting a ridiculously huge selection of clothes and accessories—all of which are cheaper new than used clothes at a thrift store, regardless of how environmentally problematic that may be. Pro tip: Don’t sleep on the embroidery kiosk capable of embroidering anything onto anything you end up picking out.

RALPH MILES BUILDING MATERIAL LIQUIDATOR

7639 SE Foster Road, 503-775-1030. Closed Sunday.

Weathered signage worthy of a film production featuring a particularly heavy-handed prop designer marks this place. While the name suggests building materials are the main event here, there is much more. The front contains tons of liquidation items, and there are surprises galore in the dusty labyrinthine back of the store.

Courtesy of S.M.A.R.T. COLLECTIVE

OVERSEAS TASTE

4431 SE 64th Ave., 503-771-7450.

Eastern European meat market with rockbottom prices. Some of the best smoked and dried meats in Portland can be found here, from double-smoked bacon and chicken sausage to Jewish salami and Hungarian sausage.

S.M.A.R.T. COLLECTIVE 4533B SE 67th Ave., 971-888-5070, smartcollectivepdx.com.

If it wasn’t for the connection between art, music and skateboarding (thank you, Thrasher magazine), I and many others wouldn’t have found a punk creative outlet in graphic design. This skater-owned shop is a true collective that succeeds at nurturing the creative side of the young skate community through free music and art programs at the Foster-Powell location.

GO PLAZA DEL SOL

FOSTER SOUND RECORDS

Southeast Stark Street and 187th Avenue.

6433 SE Foster Road (inside Bar Carlo), 503-7711664. Closed Tuesday.

This tiny record shop within neighborhoodfavorite restaurant Bar Carlo packs a goodly assortment of records into a small space. The discs on offer here are mostly used and primarily of the classic-rock variety, making Foster Sound a great spot to buy a gift for the person in your life who likes motorcycle culture and dresses like they’re living in the ’70s.

THE VARIETY SHOP

4932 SE Foster Road, 503-775-2210.

Down at the intersection of Foster and Powell, the Variety Shop is a spot I glibly passed by for years. Big mistake on my part. It’s much larger than it looks, and has a remarkable collection of vinyl records, VHS, and DVD and Blu-ray discs—all clearly priced to sell.

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FOSTER SOUNDS RECORDS | Rosie Struve

CROSSROADS RECORDS

8112 SE Foster Road, 503-232-1767, xro.com.

Nice-sized record store featuring multiple record collections on consignment from different sellers. Consignment shopping for recorded music has to be something of an oddity, and shopping here can be a bit confusing at first. But once you know which sellers share your tastes, you can beeline it to their area.

You can touch the sky at this sprawling 3D model of the solar system, where the large spheres representing the Moon and Mars actually contain dust from the real celestial bodies. Touch the Moon and you’re actually touching the Moon. Stand on Mars, and you’re really standing on Mars.

DEMOCRATIC SOCIALISTS OF AMERICA 6401 SE Foster Road, portlanddsa.org.

Since the 2016 election, the Democratic Socialists of America have grown rapidly and are currently doing good work in the Portland community—the most recent campaign emphasizing Medicare for all. The DSA is this area’s leading progressive movement for social change. General meetings are held the first Sunday of each month, with newcomer orientation half an hour before the meeting. WILL AMETTE WEEK

WILLAMETTE WEEKâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S 6th annual

PRO/AM OCTOBER 14, 2018 LeftBank annex 101 n weilder st. Professional brewers and home brewers team up to create one-of-a-kind drinks at this yearly festival.

FINDER 2018

DEEP SOUTHEAST

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LAURELHURST/KERNS

ORTLAND IS A CITY OF NEIGHBORHOODS and districts where people can set up shop and be happily surrounded on all sides by topnotch food, drink, shopping and nature. Because we Portlanders are so spoiled, it’s difficult to recommend which district to head toward if a friend visits with time for just one. But the Laurelhurst and Kerns area makes a strong claim for the title. It would take several afternoons dedicated to nothing more than leisure to explore even half of the spots on East Burnside Street, and just as many booze- and food-filled evenings to explore the fantastic joints on East 28th Avenue. The district’s famous Laurelhurst Park contends for everyone’s favorite natural space inside the city, filled with massive ginkgos, Douglas firs, Concert Grove lindens, sycamore maples, giant sequoias, Kentucky coffee trees, oaks and dawn redwoods. You’ll find ramen direct from Japan. The Pacific Northwest’s oldest record store. Thai food locals are happy to keep waiting in line for. Bars that show soccer and RuPaul’s Drag Race with equal reverence. The things that have made Portland shine of late shine very brightly here.

BY DONOVAN FARLEY I’m a proud Portlander of four years who moved here from NYC, grew up in Atlanta and am doing my damndest not to ruin things in Portland. When I first arrived in my beloved new home, working at Music Millennium and hanging at Beulahland helped me fall for the City of Roses fast and hard, and I relished the opportunity to spread the gospel of these and many other glorious haunts. My writing has appeared in Rolling Stone , Vice , Forbes , Consequence of Sound and Paste , among others. NEIGHBORHOOD NOTES To curb redevelopment, Laurelhurst residents are now halfway through obtaining historical landmark certification for most of the 425-acre neighborhood. On Halloween 1990, a few skateboarders started pouring concrete under the east end of the Burnside Bridge, without permission from the city. Bit by bit, the Burnside Skatepark came to exist, and came to be accepted by City Hall.

CJ Monserrat

THE PICKS WHERE TO GRAB A CUP OF JOE, BUY WEED, WALK YOUR POOCH, AND PICK UP GROCERIES.

OBLIQUE COFFEE 3039 SE Stark St. 503-228-7883

TETRA CANNABIS 4011 SE Belmont St. 503-206-7559 tetrapdx.com

NO BONZ ABOUT IT 3351 NE Sandy Blvd. 503-234-5909 nobonz.com

DASHEN LATIN GROCERIES 3022 NE Glisan St. 503-234-7785

must

LAURELHURST A NEIGHBORHOOD COMPRISING MOSTLY uppermiddle-class homes, big sleepy trees and undulating roads, Laurelhurst connects Southeast and Northeast Portland and is best known for the ’hood’s glorious Laurelhurst Park. With acres of scenic lounging space, tennis and basketball courts, off-leash dog area and duck pond, Laurelhurst Park is adored by all Portlanders. By and large a residential zone that reflects the tranquility of the park, the Laurelhurst neighborhood is also dotted with solitary institutions that made Portland weird in the first place. The 50-year-old music store, Music Millennium, for example, is going strong, updated with beer taps and ice-cold PBRs to sip while shopping or listening to an intimate show from touring artists like the Zombies. Overall, though, the fight for historical classification of the Laurelhurst neighborhood has deterred developers from altering much along these streets, much to the residents’ (and tourists’) relief.

MUSIC MILLENNIUM 3158 E Burnside St., 503-2318926, musicmillennium.com. Founded in 1969, Music Millennium is the Pacific Northwest’s oldest, and arguably its most beloved, record shop—although it’s much more than just a place to purchase music. Owner Terry Currier’s store hosts upward of 250 live performances and meet-and-greets a year from touring artists of the highest caliber, as well as enjoyable local showcases. Currier was among the group of record industry insiders who helped start Record Store Day, and that ethos of celebrating music and record collecting permeates the shop year round.

Terry Currier, owner of Music Millennium for 49 years, also popularized the city's unofficial slogan, “Keep Portland Weird.”

EAT LAURELHURST MARKET

3155 E Burnside St., 503-206-3097, laurelhurstmarket.com. Brunch-dinner daily.

Since its inception, chef Ben Bettinger’s brasserie-inspired Laurelhurst Market has emerged as one of the best places to get a cut of meat in Portland. The kind of place that’s low on frills and high on quality. You can also grab some of the primo cuts of meat to go from the deli counter on your way out. $$-$$$$.

PETITE PROVENCE

3420 NE Sandy Blvd., 971-703-4419, provencepdx. com. Breakfast and lunch daily.

Petite Provence Boulangerie & Pâtisserie on Sandy is both the newest addition to the Petite Provence family and home to its central bakery. As such, the smells emanating from the building are powerfully delicious. Fortunately, Petite Provence is slangs more than smells, and the rich French options are wildly delectable and accompanied by a nice selection of cocktails and mimosas as well. $$. FINDER 2018

CJ Monserrat

DRINK ANGEL FACE

14 NE 28th Ave., 503-239-3804, angelfaceportland.com

At Angel Face, the hand-painted wallpaper is only half as meticulously crafted as the signature cocktails. Select your spirit, give the bartender as much or as little directive as to what you’re feeling, and within five minutes you’ll be sipping on something that’s entirely new, bound to be delicious, and will definitely set you back at least $12. That’s the price of sublime singularity.

BELMONT STATION

4500 SE Stark St., 503-232-8538, belmont-station.com.

Saying Portland has a few cool craft beers bars is like saying it has a few bearded dudes or that it rains sometimes—a severe understatement. Belmont Station boasts arguably the best, broadest selection, and for over 20 years now, many Portland beer lovers have agreed. There are 24 expertly curated tap handles that change weekly as well as a chilling station stocked to the gills with more than 1,000 (!!!) beers to choose from. Absolute heaven. LAURELHURST/KERNS

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CHOPSTICKS

3390 NE Sandy Blvd., 503-234-6171, chopstickskaraoke.com.

Relocating from East Burnside Street a couple of years back didn’t dampen Portland’s enthusiasm for its favorite karaoke bar and Chinese restaurant. For over 20 years, Chopsticks has been a go-to for those looking to unleash their inner rock star, and there’s never a cover for the privilege of cranking out your white-hot interpretation of “Don’t Stop Believing.” For those who’ve not yet downed enough Jameson to grab the mic, there are pool tables, pingpong and video lottery machines.

SHOP MADE YOU LOOK

M-F 4pm-7pm

2418 E. Burnside St., 503-719-7906, madeyoulookpdx. com. Closed Mondays.

A modern toy store of the highest order, Made You Look makes a strong case for leaving the house when shopping for your favorite kid. In addition to having a ton of fun handmade toys, the store has a small play area for visitors to enjoy and to host the occasional party.

GO LAURELHURST PARK

Southeast César E. Chávez Boulevard and Stark Street.

In a city that’s absolutely lousy with gorgeous parks, the 31-acre Laurelhurst Park stands out as one of the absolute best. Children gleefully chase ducks at its Firwood Lake, dogs love the massive off-leash area, and the seemingly never-ending grounds of pristine grass make it a preferred picnic destination. So beloved and well-known is Laurelhurst Park that in 2001 it became the first ever park added to the National Register of Historic Places, cementing its legendary status.

COE CIRCLE

Northeast Glisan Street and César E. Chávez Boulevard.

This small circular park at the center of a Northeast roundabout was formerly a stop along the Glisan streetcar line. In 1925, Henry Waldo Coe had the bronze and copper Jeanne d’Arc statue installed, which was made from the original mold of Emmanuel Frémiet’s 1874 gilded bronze statue at the Place des Pyramides in Paris.

HILLOCKBURN FARM

233 NE 28th Ave., 503-206-4442, hillockburnfarm. com. Friday-Sunday.

Beyond being a fantastic source of highquality, handmade, small-batch, natural body care products, Hillockburn Farm is a 100 percent woman-owned and -operated company that donates 10 percent of its annual profits to local charities, so you can feel extra good about grabbing another bar of the all-natural coconut-infused soap.

LAURELHURST PARK | Sam Gehrke

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WILL AMETTE WEEK

KERNS KERNS, WHICH UNTIL NOW has been known as a random-seeming hodgepodge of businesses and residential zones cut in half by Northeast Sandy Boulevard, has been coming into its own in the past couple years in terms of entertainment choices. Top-notch new bars and a dense concentration of highprofile eateries have popped up alongside old-school mainstays, and additions like the “Green Mile” of cannabis dispensaries and adult food court the Zipper have helped turn the highly walkable neighborhood into a destination whose randomness is one of its primary charms.

must

EAT PAMBICHE

BEULAHLAND | Thomas Teal

2811 NE Glisan St., 503-233-0511, pambiche.com. Lunch and dinner Monday-Friday, brunch-late FridaySaturday.

HAN OAK

Taking its name from a Dominican music genre and dance form derived from merengue, this wildly popular Cuban spot features a menu as scintillating as the vibrant mural that adorns the outside of the building: Gulf prawns rubbed in garlic mojo sauce; red snapper simmered in coconut and pepper sauce; Rabo Encendido (“oxtail on fire”). Everything is flavorful and tasty—as evidenced by the lines that wrap around the block each night. $-$$.

511 NE 24th Ave., 971-255-0032, hanoakpdx.com. Dinner Friday-Monday.

EPIF

THE SUDRA

404 NE 28th Ave., 971-254-8680. Dinner nightly, brunch weekends.

Owners Nicolle Dirks and Jose “Pepe” Arancibia moved to Portland from Arancibia’s native Valparaiso, Chile, and designed and constructed Epif, which features vegan food inspired by the Andes region of South America, on the corner of Northeast 28th and Flanders in what is literally their front yard. The kind of delicious vegan joint that pleases even the most carnivorous of eaters, Epif is also arguably Portland’s best destination for pisco—a white brandy made in Peru and Chile from muscat grapes—and offers a lively cocktail menu featuring the unique spirit. $$.

The side-yard spot behind the Ocean on Northeast Glisan Street is half open-kitchen restaurant, half modernist loft where chef Peter Cho and his family actually live. Everchanging plates hover around $10 each, and always seem to include a plate of thickbreaded Korean fried chicken so laden with fat and spice our server said she sometimes just noshes on the dredged skins. $-$$$. 2935 NE Glisan St., 971-302-6002, thesudra.com.

Unlike most vegan restaurants, nothing on the Sudra’s Western-influenced Indian menu seems like a substitute. For the most variety and some seriously fresh chutney, order one of the plates. The fried chickpea “cutlets” are pillowy, and the black lentil kofta balls have a nice crispy shell. $$.

BEULAHLAND 118 NE 28th Ave., 503-235-2794, beulahlandpdx.com. One of the most beloved watering holes in all of Portland, Beulahland touches on many of the facets that make Portland such a great, all-are-welcome place. You can find folks watching soccer, the Portland Trail Blazers or Ru Paul’s Drag Race with equal enthusiasm; enjoy one of the best happy hours in town; or catch a buzz morning, noon and night at this gloriously divey bar that we at Willamette Week once called “the exact geographical and cultural center of Portland.” Truer words have rarely been written.

DAVENPORT

2215 E Burnside St., 503-236-8747, venportpdx.com. Dinner Tuesday-Saturday.

In the neutral-minimalist dining room, beautifully tender pork loin is paired with lightly acidic cabbage, and steak is served with light char at its edge and aching red within. Then there’s the bar, where the food menu is the same, but the off-shift chef next to you is ordering a grilled eggplant stuffed with Thai-spiced sausage and scallions with a miso-ginger sauce. $$$.

GÜERO

200 NE 28th Ave., 503-887-9258, gueropdx.com. Lunch and dinner Tuesday-Sunday.

In a sunny room with pottery from Jalisco, much-loved former food cart Güero serves mammoth carnitas and pollo pibil tortas slathered with lime-chili mayo on telera bread. The menu is bolstered by new favorites like an egg-and-braised-beef desayuno torta. $.

DOVE VIVI

2727 NE Glisan St., 503-239-4444, dovevivipizza.com. Dinner nightly.

Dove Vivi plays by its own rules. Whether it’s the pizza joint’s wordless sign featuring a simple heart, the fact that you can order split specialty pies (and are, in fact, encouraged to do so) or the corn-based crusts upon which wildly original and unorthodox ingredients are piled—Dove Vivi proudly marches to the beat of its own drum. Fortunately, that drum is a delicious one. Be sure and check the restaurant’s Twitter feed for daily specials as delectable as they are original. $$. FINDER 2018

GUERO | Sam Gehrke

LAURELHURST/KERNS

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DRINK

Al Hirschfield mural (left) at Sandy Hut

CHURCH

2600 NE Sandy Blvd., 503-206-8692, churchbarpdx.com.

Church feels like a big boozy confession booth built for pre-emptively copping to that evening’s sins, complete with a photo booth masquerading as a confession booth. On the weekends, DJs spin and the whole neighborhood elbows for room to order cheeky cocktails like the Drink Has No Name (grapefruit or orange juice, PiscoLogía and whipped egg white; $10).

STAMMTISCH

401 NE 28th Ave., 503-206-7983, stammtischpdx.com.

Stammtisch goes above and beyond in its efforts to provide a truly German experience. From importing the finest biers, to the delicious Graham Chaney-curated menu, down to even the handmade glassware the aforementioned biers are meant to be served in—you won’t find a more authentic experience without getting a new stamp on your passport.

POISON’S RAINBOW

344 NE 28th Ave., 503-946-8080, poisonsrainbow.com.

It’s hard for a bar to stand out on the boozefilled stretch of 28th Avenue where Poison’s Rainbow resides, but the bar’s glitter-in-thegutter décor featuring black-light chandeliers, crazy delicious deep-dish pizza from local ’za faves Ranch and tasty, inexpensive drink menu have made this brand-new spot a quickly popular one. Being owned by Modest Mouse frontman Isaac Brock probably hasn’t hurt either.

LAURELTHIRST PUBLIC HOUSE

2958 NE Glisan St., 503-235-7972, laurelthirst.com.

A good indication of how much the Laurelthirst has meant to the local folk and Americana scenes over its 30 years lies in how quickly the community rallied around the hallowed bar and venue’s recent crowdfunding campaign. Inexpensive, welcoming and featuring live music every night of the week, here’s to hoping this warm and inviting watering hole stays open for another 30 years.

SHOP EVERYDAY MUSIC

1931 NE Sandy Blvd., 503-239-7610, everydaymusic.com.

As the name implies, Everyday music provides access to an amazing selection of records, CDs, tapes, DVDs and most anything else music-related 24/7/365. The shop’s vinyl aisles are filled with reasonably priced gems that will whet the appetite of audiophiles far and wide.

PROJECT OBJECT

2502 NE Sandy Blvd., 503-477-5274, projectobject.co.

Beyond having tons of cool wares—think super-hip clothes, jewelry, pins, home accessories and smokeware—Project Object is notable for its steadfast dedication to supporting women, LGBTQA, POC, artists and designers, as well as for donating a portion of sales to nonprofits. The ever-evolving space is used creatively and also functions as a gallery that hosts a different artist every few months.

LEEWARD NORTHWEST SURF & SEA 2504 NE Sandy Blvd., 503-208-3425, leewardsurf.com.

Yes, Leeward Northwest Surf & Sea boasts an impressive collection of surfboards, wetsuits and the like, but it’s also an impressive source for all things Left Coast. Dresses, sweaters, button-downs, shoes, home goods, winter gear—Leeward has a bit of everything for everyone in a well-curated, oceancentric collection, whether you can handle yourself on a wave or not.

SANDY HUT

1430 NE Sandy Blvd., 503-235-7972.

After first opening its doors in 1923, Sandy Hut’s recent renovations by owners Marcus Archambeault and Warren Boothby served as a sort of reboot that retained much of the bar’s charm while not cleaning it up too much. This is one of those Portland bars where any type of person might wander in at any hour, grab a booth underneath the famous Al Hirschfeld mural, order one of the best bar burgers in town and settle in for some fantastic people watching.

LEEWARD | Katie Reahl

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HOLLYWOOD VINTAGE

MIGRATION BREWING

Whether it’s cool vintage threads or a dope Halloween costume, or you dress like every day is Halloween, Hollywood Vintage has it covered, along with enough funky glasses, boas, jackets, boots, shoes and anything else your funky mind can come up with—and a few things it probably hasn’t conjured just yet.

Portland is spoiled when it comes to wonderful parks, sure. But can you get freshly brewed craft beer and delicious Korean chicken wings at a park? I think not. You can, however, imbibe in those glories and others on Migration Brewing’s spacious patio, a spot where you are guaranteed to find several happy doggos lounging in the sun most afternoons during the non-rainy months.

2757 NE Pacific St., 503-233-1890, hollywoodvintage.com.

PROVIDORE FINE FOODS 2340 NE Sandy Blvd., 503-232-1010, providorefinefoods.com.

A gourmet European market trafficking in high-end and hard-to-find items, Providore has become a must-visit spot for any and all Portland gourmands. Beyond the grocery selections, Providore is notable for housing a Pastaworks and Flying Fish Company, as well as a top-notch wine shop and seating area in which to enjoy all this grandness.

GO LAURELHURST THEATER

2735 E Burnside St., 503-232-5511, laurelhursttheater.com.

SANDY HUT | Henry Cromett

Since opening in 1923, the Laurelhurst and its gorgeous neon marquee has been a centerpiece of the area. Over the years the theater has gone through multiple incarnations, and as of this year, the theater has evolved from showing second-run titles to upgrading its sound system and screens and showing first-run movies. What hasn’t changed is the well-curated film selection and the inexpensive food and drink options, as well as the cheap tickets ($9 a show, $6 for a weekday matinee).

2828 NE Glisan St., 503-206-5221, migrationbrewing.com.

THE ZIPPER

2705 NE Sandy Blvd.

A sort of adult food court, the Zipper has been a highlight of the Kerns neighborhood from its inception a couple of years ago. Whether it’s coffee from Seven Virtues, Nashville hot chicken from Basilisk, Asianfusion from Ware, a manicure at Finger Bang—the Zipper has you covered from taste buds to nail tips. With in-house bar Paydirt providing libations to patrons inside and on the Zipper’s spacious patio, the multiuse facility is truly the gift that keeps on giving and the jewel of the Kerns neighborhood.

SEE SEE MOTOR COFFEE COMPANY 1642 NE Sandy Blvd., 503-894-9566, seeseemotorcycles.com.

One of the more unique retailers in Portland, at See See you can get a beer or a coffee or a bite while you peruse the selection of motorcycle parts, riding wear, helmets and other accessories. Regardless of whether you consider yourself a grease monkey, or actually need a new helmet, this motorcycle cafe is well worth a visit.

Designer Margaret Alba (left) and owner T Ngu (right) of Project Object

Katie Reahl

FINDER 2018

LAURELHURST/KERNS

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EAST BURNSIDE THERE ARE FEW AREAS OF PORTLAND as affected by the changes afoot in our fair city than East Burnside. The region’s proximity to many of Portland’s favorites—restaurants, shops, record stores, strip clubs, and even a cool motel—has made the bustling neighborhood a favorite of seasoned Portland vets and tourists alike. The sounds and sights of construction are ever-present and show no signs of abating any time soon, as more and more folks fall in love with East Burnside’s walkable convenience.

must

LE PIGEON 738 E Burnside St., 503-546-8796, lepigeon.com. Dinner nightly. Le Pigeon is Portland. It’s hard to imagine a better culinary distillation of what makes Portland so different from other hyped cities—not twee or self-indulgent but personal in a way places in bigger cities can rarely manage. Gabe Rucker’s menu is divided into halves, with the left side composed of specials and the right by delicious standbys like grilled shoyu pigeon and a burger so good my mouth started watering writing this sentence. The cozy, unpretentious space fills up quickly most nights, so make a res and prepare to have your palate treated to what we at Willamette Week recently deemed the Best Restaurant in Portland.

EAT Gabe Rucker, lead chef of Le Pigeon

WOLF & BEAR’S

113 SE 28th Ave., 503-453-2872, eatwolfandbears. com. Lunch and dinner daily.

Sure, Wolf and Bear is a food cart and not an actual restaurant, but the flavors at this Middle Eastern vegetarian joint are far more on point than most brick-and-mortar spots—and usually at a fraction of the price. That dedication to flavor and local, organic ingredients has helped W&B expand to three locations since the original cart opened in 2009. $.

LUCE

2140 E Burnside St., 503-236-7195, luceportland.com. Lunch and dinner daily.

At Luce, all is light. That starts with the small, bright room, which is artfully cluttered with imported olive oil and dry pasta. It’s a place you don’t have to think too hard about—a perfect meal for two might be spongy focaccia, olives, a large salad and a generous half-order of tagliatelle with a beef and pork ragu, all for less than $40. $$.

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LE PIGEON | Emily Bernard Stevens

WILL AMETTE WEEK

The painted pattern covering the Fair Haired Dumbbell, completed 2017, was inspired by wrapping paper found at Oblation Papers & Press.

DRINK RONTOMS

600 E Burnside St., 503-236-4536, rontoms.net.

MARUKIN

609 SE Ankeny St., 503-894-9021, marukinramen.com. Lunch and dinner daily.

After succeeding in Japan to the tune of nine restaurants opened in 20 years, Marukin blessed the City of Roses with its first American location, and we responded ecstatically. Chef Mayumi Hijikata uses handmade noodles in her thoughtfully created bowls, and keeps things fresh by alternating the menu every other day. But rest assured that no matter what day you happen upon Marukin is going to be a delicious one. $.

PAADEE AND LANGBAAN CJ Monserrat

SAMMICH

2137 E Burnside St., 503-477-4393, sammichrestaurants.com. Lunch and dinner daily.

Sammich owner Melissa McMillan traffics in the kind of fare you’d expect to find in a Chicago deli—Italian beef, mouthwatering pastrami and giardiniera, a spicy mix of pickled chilies, pepper, celery and carrots on everything. McMillan’s personality is as big as her flavors, and you can usually hear her joyously greeting customers and shouting out orders before you can see her and her ever-present backward Cubs cap. $.

TUSK

2448 E. Burnside St., 503-894-8082, tuskpdx.com. Dinner nightly, brunch weekends.

Everything about Tusk, a spot that uses Middle Eastern cooking methods to highlight the best and brightest seasonal ingredients, is well-executed. Omnivores and vegetarians alike are seduced by the ever-evolving menu that features the best-tasting and most interesting salad…well, anywhere, served alongside simple but delicious meat and fish offerings. The drink menu is equally polished and ensures that by the end of your meal you’ll be as blissed out as the massive photo above the bar depicting Keith Richards floating in a pool. $$-$$$$. FINDER 2018

6 SE 28th Ave.; 503-360-1453, paadeepdx.com; 971-344-2564, langbaanpdx.com. PaaDee lunch and dinner daily, Langbaan dinner by reservation only Thursday-Sunday.

PaaDee chef Earl Ninsom’s steadfast commitment to adventurous Thai food has allowed the restaurant to stand out in a city spoiled to death in terms of tasty Thai. Ninsom and company recently made a popular family-style Issan dinner menu available Sunday through Wednesday, and sister restaurant Langbaan, accessible only through a bookshelf door in the back of PaaDee, is a reservation-only revelation in its own right, one recently named the No. 2 restaurant in the city by Willamette Week. Both establishments are well worth your time and money. $$-$$$$.

KEN’S ARTISAN PIZZA

304 SE 28th Ave., 503-517-9951, kensartisan.com. Dinner nightly.

Everything about Ken’s Artisan Pizza is remarkably consistent. That starts with the line, which forms upon opening every night of the year. It continues with the classic, perfectly baked pies that come out of the Le Panyol wood-fired oven that master baker Ken Forkish installed, which sits among tables built from the remains of the roller coaster that once clicked up a track at the long-gone Jantzen Beach Amusement Park. $-$$$.

Rontoms makes great use of its massive amount of space, ample seating and cool design. A great place for a chill drink during the week, Rontoms becomes a bit of meat market for tech bros and bridge and tunnel types on Friday and Saturday, before regaining its hip-crowd cool each Sunday for a wildly popular local music showcase. Sunday Sessions are always free and local and do a great job showcasing the diversity of Portland’s incredibly vibrant music scene.

B-SIDE TAVERN

632 E. Burnside St., 503-233-3113, bsidetavern.com.

Already known as the kind of place where off-duty bartenders go to drink, perhaps the best example of how much B-Side is loved lies in the fact that after a fire shut the place down for several months in 2018, bars like Doug Fir Lounge and Tonic held fundraisers for the employees and let them pick up shifts at their establishments. The scrappy punk bar wasn’t going to let a fire shutter its doors permanently, and hopefully, going forward, the only flames arising on the premises will be those of service-industry vets lighting up smokes on the always-busy back patio.

HOLMAN’S

15 SE 28th Ave., 503-231-1093, holmanspdx.com.

The kind of 84-years-young establishment where you can drink your breakfast, Holman’s remains a mainstay of Portland’s booze scene because of its cheap prices (the $7 blood mary might be the city’s best), impressive whiskey collection and tasty greasy-spoon food offerings. Utterly devoid of pretension, Holman’s is a great place to watch a game, play some pool or soak up rays on the surprisingly spacious back patio and will probably still be slanging booze long after we’ve all moved on to that great dive bar in the sky.

CHANDELIER

1451 SE Ankeny St., 503-841-8345, chandelierbarpdx. com. Closed Monday.

Chandelier owner Matthew Ellis, formerly of the Multnomah Whiskey Library, was inspired by his time in Japan to create a bar that pushes Americans’ very notion of sake into new territory. He has succeeded in spades with the wildly original Chandelier, one of Portland’s best new bars and a great place to take an adventurous date who appreciates both sake and the chilly, sensual cool of David Lynch’s set design. LAURELHURST/KERNS

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SASSY’S

927 Morrison St., 503-231-1606.

As the oft-repeated and quite true saying goes, “Strip clubs in Portland are different.” Here in Bridgetown, they’re seen as more akin to neighborhood bars than the dark (literally and metaphorically) dens of sin that booty clubs are understood to be in most other cities. Sassy’s, with its two dozen taps of craft beer—which will run you only $2.50 on weekdays until 8—exemplifies that ethos and has, in most circles, become known as the Portland strip club to bring your out-oftown friends to. Just don’t forget to tip the dancers.

THE STANDARD

14 NE 22nd Ave., 503-233-4181.

The Standard is a grab bag of simple, sincere amusements: a covered patio, $1 Jell-O shots topped with a neutron bomb’s worth of Pop Rocks, the city’s best alcoholic slushies in a cornucopia of flavors, long-table shuffleboard, a Hamm’s bear in a Blazer jersey, a vending machine that might sell both condoms and a trans Barbie, and a better craft beer selection than you have any right to expect at a bar that serves $3 pints on Sunday.

SHOP HIPPO HARDWARE AND TRADING

1040 E Burnside St., 503-231-1444, hippohardware.com.

It is an exceedingly strange thing indeed to say a hardware store is an attraction worth visiting whether you have anything to build, but that’s exactly what Hippo Hardware, the most Portland hardware store ever, is. Photographers have staged photo shoots in the store’s otherworldly environs, like the sea of vintage lights and chandeliers that make up the store’s top level. It’s the kind of place Tim Burton would swing by when finishing his kitchen remodel.

FUTURE SHOCK

1914 E. Burnside St., 503-327-8473, futureshockpdx.com.

A nerdy record collector’s wet dream, Future Shock is packed to the gills with records, hard-to-find vinyl toys, comic book ephemera and cool gift ideas for the nerd in your life. The store is also a hangout of sorts for like-minded individuals, sometimes hosts shows and even features a sweet Space Invaders tabletop game in the back.

MACHUS

542 E Burnside St., 503-206-8626, machusonline.com.

This fashion-forward streetwear company has made a name for itself as the type of place where you can scoop up new designs from Helmut Lang and Kanye’s Yeezy line in a city known more for rainwear and a neverending supply of flannel. The sleek East Burnside store is a welcome (and needed) respite from the sea of vintage that usually typifies Portland fashion.

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CJ Monserrat

811 E Burnside St.

Burnside Skatepark, at one time renegade, now world-famous, is a testament to the city's DIY roots.

REVIVAL DRUM SHOP

811 SHOPS

At this hub of some of Portland’s best and brightest female designers, you’ll find brick-and-mortars of Laurs Kemp and Alexa Stark apparel, alongside more art-oriented boutiques like Seven Sisters. 2045 SE Ankeny St., 503-719-6533, revivaldrumshop.com.

A mecca for drummers, Revival has made a name for itself nationwide as a go-to for any and all drumming needs and its selection of classic kits. The store is a history lesson in the art of percussion and caters to the drummer’s every need, from rentals and repairs to apparel and lessons from a passionate and unpretentious staff.

LILLE BOUTIQUE

1007 E Burnside St., 503-232-0333, lilleboutique.com.

Lille Boutique was started in 2007 to provide Portlanders with a place to purchase hard-to-find brands from all over the world from a single, handpicked collection. Exquisite lingerie is the star attraction here, but you can also find swimwear, various accessories and other kinds of high-end femalecentric products.

OLD TOWN MUSIC

55 SE 11th Ave., 503-295-6808, oldtownmusicportland.com.

An independent guitar shop with a huge selection of used, new and vintage gear for sale, trade or consignment. Old Town boasts one of the nation’s largest selections of effects pedals, with over 40 brands to choose from. If you end up going too hard, you can bring the instrument back for repairs.

BURNSIDE SKATEPARK

Southeast 2nd Avenue under the Burnside Bridge.

An iconic piece of Portland history, the Burnside Skatepark has been featured in video games like Tony Hawk’s Pro Skater and Mat Hoffman’s Pro BMX and countless skating documentaries, and is the setting for Portland resident Gus Van Sant’s 2007 film, Paranoid Park. Originally built illegally by the enterprising Portland skateboarding community 28 years ago, the park has since become recognized as one of the finest skateparks in the world and a shining example to DIY skaters and would-be skatepark architects everywhere. Cool even if you’re not a skater.

DOUG FIR LOUNGE

830 E Burnside St., 503-231-9663, dougfirlounge.com.

The Doug Fir, housed in the Jupiter Hotel, is a multifaceted facility with a world-class music venue, a super-cool patio and a restaurant serving up tasty vittles. A beloved Portland staple whose design makes it seem you’re drinking in the world’s hippest log cabin, whether you’re there to check out a show in the cozy basement, chilling with a date by the fireplace or with pals on the ample patio, the Doug Fir is always a great time.

WILL AMETTE WEEK

FINDER 2018

LAURELHURST/KERNS

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OR BETTER AND FOR WORSE, Inner Southeast often exemplifies the stereotypical Portland image that people both adore and deride—from wide boulevards with vintage stores, coffee shops and expensive doughnuts aplenty to small neighborhood streets with used record shops and gorgeous 20th-century Craftsman homes. The vibe is young and vibrant, with ambitious newcomers joining the fold alongside the bohemian and laid-back (if slightly wary) attitude of the long-term locals. It is walkable and bikeable and truly a beautiful part of the city. But with popularity comes growth, and with growth comes change. Inner Southeast is an area that saw mass-scale construction projects and gentrification before many other Portland neighborhoods, with huge swaths hardly resembling their former selves. These days the pace of change here has slowed as other spots around town become the next “it” neighborhood, and the district has found its own sense of balance between new and old, where pet boutiques and yoga studios hold court alongside scrappy dive bars and family bookstores. Because we’re all neighbors here.

BY PENELOPE BASS I moved to Portland from Flagstaff, Ariz., seven years ago and this verdant, soggy oasis has felt like home ever since. Currently, I drink professionally on behalf of Imbibe magazine as the associate editor. I live and work in Southeast, so you’ll see me riding my bike to and fro, making frequent stops for coffee at Upper Left, for cocktails at No Fun Bar, and for pizza everywhere in between. NEIGHBORHOOD NOTES As the vaudeville era wound down, one of the final acts at the Bagdad Theater was the Will Mastin Trio in 1948, which included a young singer-dancer named Sammy Davis Jr. Two boys were arrested at the Clinton Street Theater in 1917 for firing toy guns during a dramatic pistol duel in a silent film screening. The realism of the boys’ toys shocked the crowd and several people screamed in terror.

Rosie Struve

THE PICKS WHERE TO GRAB A CUP OF JOE, BUY WEED, WALK YOUR POOCH, AND PICK UP GROCERIES.

TŌV COFFEE SE 32nd Ave. and Hawthorne 541-908-2555 tovcoffee.com

NATURAL WONDERS 1402 SE César Chávez Blvd. 503-928-1228 naturalwonderspdx.com

SEWALLCREST PARK SE 31st Ave. and Market St.

TALARICO’S PRODUCE 2230 SE Hawthorne Blvd. 503-265-8453

H AW T H O R N E HAWTHORNE BOULEVARD IS A BIT LIKE AN AGING MOVIE STAR. Once the darling of Southeast, with its charismatic string of boutiques, vegan destinations and vintage thrift shops, Portland’s original Cool Neighborhood is now just a bit tired looking. An American Apparel came and went. The heavy metal Hawthorne Theatre rocks on, under new ownership. But this is not to diminish the neighborhood’s achievement. Hawthorne famously rallied to boycott the construction of a McDonald’s and today boasts an undeniably enjoyable mix of trendy restaurants, locally owned shops and a small handful of beloved dives.

EAT

Sam Gehrke

FARMHOUSE KITCHEN

HAZEL ROOM

An offshoot of its lauded sister restaurant in San Francisco, newcomer Farmhouse Kitchen is a welcome—albeit pricier— addition to Portland’s already vast Thai scene. The Hat Yai fried chicken ($20.95) is perfectly crisp, with yellow curry, fluffy roti and signature blue jasmine rice. Don’t skip the spicy papaya salad ($11.95) and add a playful cocktail to kill the heat. $$-$$$.

For all the hoopla surrounding the ritual of brunch in Portland, the Hazel Room flies inexplicably under the radar. Expansive offerings of coffee and tea? Check. Breakfast cocktails? Yup. Mouthwatering dishes both sweet and savory? Oh, yeah—the polenta and pork ragu ($14.50). Skip the lines at places that shall not be named and go here instead. Just don’t tell anyone else. $-$$.

3354 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 503-432-8115, farmhousepdx.com. Lunch and dinner daily.

3279 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 503-756-7125, thehazelroom.com. Breakfast and lunch daily.

CUBO DE CUBA

HELLO INDIA

3106 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 971-544-7801, cuboportland.com. Lunch and dinner daily.

If you didn’t make it to Cuba during the Obama era’s loosened travel sanctions, head for this food cart-turned-brick-and-mortar for traditional fare like slow-roasted mojo pork, guava chicken and plantains cooked both sweet and soft or crunchy and salty. The cubano is the best in town, and you might as well add a mojito because you’re on vacation. $.

3500 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 503-232-7860, helloindiapdx.com. Lunch and dinner daily.

You’ll recognize from the heavenly aroma the second you walk in the door that you are in the right place. Not just for Indian food but in life, given that life so far has brought you here. Relatively new to the neighborhood, Hello India has made fast fans of the paneer korma ($14) and the densely stuffed samosas ($7). $$.

must

EXCALIBUR COMICS 2444 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 503231-7351, excaliburcomicspdx.com. Operating for more than four decades under the helm of one family, Excalibur is the purist’s comic store, eschewing toys and other tchotchkes to devote its space entirely to the largest back stock of comics and graphic novels in the Pacific Northwest. Whether you’re on the hunt for the much sought-after Tales of Adventure No. 27 (with the origin and first appearance of Ant-Man) or simply something new, a dedicated staff of true aficionados will get something good into your hands—just be careful with the pages!

APIZZA SCHOLLS

4741 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 503-233-1286, apizzascholls.com. Dinner nightly, lunch weekends.

Pizza is a contentious topic, but it’s not hard to argue that the thin crust, perfectly chewy, lightly charred pizzas at Brian Spangler’s Apizza Scholls have long been (and continue to be) the city’s best. Wait times are more manageable these days, and you can always kill time in the arcade while you await your Sausage and Mama ($26) with housemade sausage and Mama Lil’s peppers. $$.

EAST SIDE DELI

4626 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 503-236-7313, pdxdeli. com. Lunch-late daily.

The flagship location for this beloved local sandwich shop, East Side Deli fills a very important niche in Portland: made-to-order sandwiches, packed to gills with fresh ingredients, that won’t cost you $15 plus. And you can nab a meatball Parmesan sub until 11 pm. Genius. $.

HARLOW

3632 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 971-255-0138, harlowpdx. com. Breakfast-dinner Monday-Saturday, breakfast and lunch Sunday.

APIZZA SCHOLLS | Christine Dong

FINDER 2018

Perfect for the dietarily restricted or the simply smug, Harlow assembles a lineup of vegan and gluten-free dishes that could tempt even the most carnivorous, like mushroom stroganoff with cashew cream sauce ($13). But don’t overlook cocktails like the Cinnamon Girl with spiced rum and housemade hazelnut-cashew horchata ($8), because no one’s perfect. $. INNER SOUTHEAST

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FRIED EGG I’M IN LOVE

3207 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 503-610-3447, friedegglove.com. Breakfast and lunch daily.

Which came first—the food cart or the clever name? Either way, this one slings some of the best breakfast sandwiches. Try the signature Yolko Ono ($7.25), with a fried egg, pesto, Parmesan and a sausage patty, or the Sriracha Mix-a-Lot, $7.50, with fried egg, seared ham, avocado, tomato, havarti and Sriracha, each served on toasted sourdough from Portland French Bakery. $.

DRINK CHAPEL HILL

4380 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 971-255-0157, chapelhillpdx.com.

Like its sister bar Church on Northeast Sandy Boulevard, Chapel Hill is a chill daytime hangout heavy on the religious imagery and innuendo, like the Divine Ascent, with pear vodka, absinthe, pineapple juice, lime and vanilla ($10). But once the sun goes down, the DJ turns up and the line to get in wraps around the block. Expect to get sweaty.

THE CAVERN

4601 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 503-889-0943, thecavernpdx.com.

The Cavern is just the shot in the arm Hawthorne’s Barmuda Triangle needed. An old rocker bar that’s dignified, cozy and just a wee bit punk, with crimson walls and a vast whiskey list. Like the smoky and sweet Cavern Manhattan ($12), the Cavern offers a much-needed respite from the put-on charms of newer bars and grizzled attitude of old.

HAWTHORNE HIDEAWAY

RACHEL’S GINGER BEER

Decent dive bars are a dying breed these days, so enjoy the splendors of this one while you can: Booze o’ the Day specials, free pool, Monday night trivia, filthy delicious bar food—including massive burgers like the Juicy Lucy ($12.75) stuffed with American cheese—Jell-O shots and plenty of dank ambience to go around.

An export from Seattle, Rachel’s Ginger Beer crafts a rainbow of fresh, spicy ginger beers in flavors like mango maté, passion fruit vanilla and cucumber tarragon. Whether sipped solo or mixed in a cocktail like the Porch Swing ($9.50, with original RGB, gin and Aperol), Rachel’s refreshment factor is undeniable.

2221 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 503-445-4600.

3646 SE Hawthorne Blvd., rachelsgingerbeer.com.

CLAUDIA’S SPORTS PUB & GRILL

SHORT ROUND

Since 1958, Claudia’s retains its neighborhood-bar charm while upgrading where it counts—a solid tap list of mostly local brews, generous portions of pub food, and a disorienting number of TVs, making it the ideal spot to catch the Blazers, the Timbers or any other sport you can think of. Feeling lucky? Claudia’s still hosts cash poker games every night.

When it comes to drunken, late-night bites, we can do better than a basket of tots: The snacks menu at Short Round is proof. Options like the pan-fried sticky rice cake with pork belly and fried sugarcane shrimp (both $4) are dynamite. Salty, fatty, spicy—in other words, everything you could want to accompany creative cocktails like the Matchmaker ($13) with Japanese whisky and house matcha bitters.

3006 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 503-232-1744, claudiaspub.com.

GOLD DUST MERIDIAN

3267 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 503-239-1143, golddustmeridian.com.

With a laid-back yet undeniably sexy ambience (think Jeff Goldblum in a V-neck), Gold Dust Meridian is the spot to meet your next Tinder date. Order a 60-ounce cocktail bowl, like the Get Rad, Stay There, with silver tequila, elderflower liqueur, grapefruit and Stiegl Radler ($28), and let destiny run its course.

BAZI BIERBRASSERIE AND THIRSTY MONK

1522 SE 32nd Ave., 503-234-8888, bazipdx.com.

Since 2011, Bazi Bierbrasserie has been the go-to bar for Belgian beer, with 17 taps pouring hard-to-find Belgian brews alongside American-made saisons, darks and Flanders red ales. Owner Hilda Stevens has merged the business with Thirsty Monk, a brewer of Belgian beer out of North Carolina, so expect to expand your knowledge as well as your palate.

3962 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 503-384-2564.

SHOP COMMUNION

3556 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 503-208-3008, communionpdx.com. Closed Mondays.

Already picked your way through Goodwill to no avail? This locally owned boutique stocks a hip selection of men’s and women’s clothing and accessories from both national labels and local makers like Bridge and Burn, striking the perfect balance between on-trend and aloof.

HOUSE OF VINTAGE

3315 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 503-236-1991, houseofvintagenw.com.

Comprising more than 60 individual dealers stocking some 13,000 square feet of warehouse space, House of Vintage is your go-to spot for unisex Levi’s cutoffs, ironic T-shirts and grandpa sweaters. Legitimate vintage (older than, say, the ’90s) is scattered throughout—along with jewelry, records and kitschy housewares.

JACKPOT RECORDS

3574 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 503-239-7561, jackpotrecords.com.

Though Jackpot’s Records’ downtown location may have shuttered, this local dealer is hanging on at its Hawthorne spot with a well-curated selection of new and used vinyl, along with rare finds and bizarre oneoffs acquired when the shop bought a special collection of 125,000 records.

Hilda Stevens, proprietor and general manager of Bazi Bierbrasserie and the Thirsty Monk

Christine Dong

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WILL AMETTE WEEK

I AM THAT

3623 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 503-841-6596, iamthatshop.com.

I Am That does the thrifting for you, curating a playful selection of women’s vintage and retro wear, slanting toward an ’80s and ’90s aesthetic.

Sandwiches. Delivered. Late.

MISTER SISTER

3962 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 520-241-8255.

With a decidedly Americana-New West vibe, family-owned Mister Sister stocks a solid collection of sought-after vintage staples like fisherman cable-knits, Army fatigues, perfectly faded Levi’s and vintage leathers, alongside a small collection of home goods.

IMELDA’S AND LOUIE’S

3426 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 503-233-7476, shop. imeldas.com.

My one piece of practical life advice: Buy quality footwear; it is worth the money. Imelda’s and Louie’s has been outfitting Portlanders’ feet for more than two decades, with brands like Frye, Blundstone and Vans (plus at least a hundred more), with the pressure-free atmosphere of a sales staff not paid on commission.

GO CINEMAGIC

2021 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 503-231-7919, thecinemagictheater.com.

Order: 503-236-8067 1711 SE Hawthorne, Blvd. Open Daily 5pm - 3am

Operating on Hawthorne for more than a century, Cinemagic shows an eclectic mix of new and classic movies, offers matinee prices all day on Tuesday and puts real butter on its popcorn. They don’t make them like this anymore.

POWELL’S BOOKS ON HAWTHORNE

3723 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 503-228-4651, powells.com.

If Powell’s downtown location is Portland’s “City of Books,” then Powell’s Hawthorne location is more like a suburb—similar vibe but smaller and less chaotic. Find new or used copies, sell used books, or catch an intimate reading.

QUARTERWORLD

4811 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 503-548-2923, quarterworldarcade.com. Closed Monday.

Built in the old Alhambra Theatre, QuarterWorld is 4,000 square feet of flashing lights and 8-bit audio. The barcade houses 34 pinball machines and 63 video games, along with Skee-Ball and a Tesla coil that sings. Grab a beer, eat some carnival food, and geek out.

BAGDAD THEATER

3702 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 503-236-9234,

Originally opened in 1927, the Bagdad is one of the McMenamins most striking revamps. The single-screen theater maintains its original architecture, from the barreled arches to the wrought-iron fixtures. Grab a drink and sit in the balcony, where servers will deliver you food from a full menu.

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DIVISION/CLINTON ONCE THE LOW-KEY, ALTERNATIVE NEIGHBORHOOD to bright, bustling Hawthorne, Division has been smacked around recently by Portland’s gentrification machine, transforming most of its stretch into a polished Portlandia theme park virtually unrecognizable from even a few years ago. But such is progress, and in all fairness, Division today boasts some of the best restaurants in the city, along with a few mercifully undisturbed gems (long live Reel M Inn). The new Division is now Clinton, an adorable approximation of small-town America, with family-owned eateries, Lilliputian record and comics shops, and even a video rental spot. Enjoy it while you can.

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REEL M INN 2430 SE Division St., 503-231-3880. Operating under a variety of monikers since the 1960s, the Reel M Inn is a pillar of Southeast Portland. So beloved is this dive bar that when it was threatened by new development in the neighborhood come the end of its lease last year (an all-too-common occurrence that has claimed the lives of numerous Old Portland haunts—RIP Club 21), the panic was palpable. A citywide sigh of relief could be heard when Chris Briggs, a partner at Loyal Legion beer hall who purchased the property, announced that Reel M Inn would stay as is. Celebrate with a stiff drink and a basket of the best damn fried chicken in town.

EAT AVA GENE’S

3377 SE Division St., 971-229-0571, avagenes.com. Dinner nightly.

For all the effort that goes into Joshua McFadden’s menu at Ava Gene’s, from the house-milled flour transformed into freshly made pasta to the meticulously curated Italian wine list, the execution is so flawless as to seem effortless. Order the spaghetti with brown butter, lemon and pea shoots ($21), and add a giardini plate for fresh seasonal veggies. $$$.

LAURETTA JEAN’S

3402 SE Division St., 503-235-3119, laurettajeans. com. Breakfast-dinner daily.

You may recognize Lauretta Jean’s madefrom-scratch biscuits in coffee shops all over town, but it’s worth stopping in for equally delicious breakfast sandwiches, homemade daily soups and a selection of pies that will make you weep. Plus, Lauretta Jean’s serves cocktails, beer and wine. $.

POK POK

3226 SE Division St., 503-232-1387, pokpokrestaurants.com. Lunch and dinner daily.

The now-legendary fish sauce wings ($15.75) are just one reason to visit this particular Thai spot among the myriad Thai options in Portland. This original location resembles more shanty town than restaurant, with tents and tarps expanding the space to accommodate the hordes who flock here, which appropriately mirrors the Thai streetfood vibe anyway. You will wait, but it will be worth it. $$.

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Sam Gehrke

WILL AMETTE WEEK

EB & BEAN

3040 SE Division St., 971-242-8753, ebandbean.com. Lunch-late daily.

Froyo places tend to operate on a more or less interchangeable formula. What sets Eb & Bean apart is the sheer variety, from homemade rotating flavors (made from dairy, almond or coconut) to the toppings (candied ginger! oat streusel! sour bears!), to magic shells encasing flavors like mint chocolate and peanut butter. $.

ARTIGIANO

3302 SE Division St., 503-860-3419, artigianopdx. com. Dinner Thursday-Saturday.

Proving that fine dining can come from a food cart, Artigiano features a small menu of made-from-scratch pastas, like rigatoni with spicy pork and ragu ($14) and secondi plates like chicken thighs with lemon and thyme ($13). The cart is only open from May through mid-October, as the off-season finds chef and owner Rachel Grossman traveling throughout Italy for new recipes and inspiration. $$-$$$$.

JACQUELINE

2039 SE Clinton St., 503-327-8637, jacquelinepdx. com. Dinner Monday-Saturday.

Named after the former name of Bill Murray’s submarine in The Life Aquatic With Steve Zissou, Jacqueline backs up oceanic allusions with some of the best seafood in town. The rotating list of fresh oysters are a no-brainer (especially for $1 each during happy hour), but don’t hesitate to split a variety of small and family-style plates like the yellowtail crudo with avocado and grapefruit ($15) or the hama hama clams with carnitas and smoked potatoes ($22). $$$.

CAT'S PAW | Emily Joan Greene

OP WURST

3384 SE Division St., 503-384-2259, opwurst.com. Lunch and dinner daily.

Originally inspired by the hugely popular “Frankfurter Fridays” at Portland meat specialists Olympia Provisions, OP Wurst gives the people what they want: locally made hot dogs and bratwurst topped with everything from braised kale and hazelnuts to peanut butter sauce and banana. Simply follow your heart. $.

LA MOULE

2500 SE Clinton St., 971-339-2822, lamoulepdx.com. Dinner nightly, Sunday brunch.

With the charm and laid-back elegance of a European cafe, Belgian-inspired brasserie La Moule is equal parts bar and restaurant. With shareable plates like the eponymous mussels (try the classic moules marinières, with garlic, butter and herbs; $21) and steak tartare served with roasted bone marrow ($16) matched by a bar menu with wellcurated wine and beer options and playful cocktails. $$.

BRODER CAFE

2508 SE Clinton St., 503-736-3333, broderpdx.com. Breakfast and lunch daily.

Proving that Scandinavian food is as delicious as it is unpronounceable, begin your Nordic-inspired meal with an order of aebleskiver (spherical Danish pancakes served with lemon curd and lingonberry jam; $10) for the table. Then admire the precision of the perfectly square baked eggs served atop smoked trout hash ($13) or beer-braised beef short ribs ($12) in individual cast-iron skillets. $$.

NOHO’S

2525 SE Clinton St.,503-233-5301, nohos.com. Lunch and dinner daily.

JACQUELINE | Christine Dong

FINDER 2018

You could easily walk past Noho’s without realizing it. Which would be a shame, as this Southeast staple has been plating up some of the best Hawaiian soul food for over 25 years. Massive plates of meat, rice and mac salad are the standard, but you can’t go wrong with Phil’s Ono Chicken ($10.95). Douse it in the signature sauce located in that squeeze bottle on the table. $.

DRINK CAT’S PAW

3565 SE Division St., 503-719-5189, catpawsaloon.com.

Owned by former pro skater Mickey Reyes, Cat’s Paw Saloon is a chill little place covered in woodgrain and remnants of skateboarding’s bad old days—including a Dogtown poster signed by everyone who matters. Yet on the sparkliest stretch of Division, it’s a refuge of slightly punky sanity. There’s Pfriem Pilsner on tap, Stiegl Radler in the fridge, and $9 cocktails with hints of lavender. We said slightly punky.

LANDMARK SALOON

4847 SE Division St., 503-894-8132, landmarksaloon.com.

This is the closest thing you can find to a country bar in the rapidly gentrifying zone of Division and 50th Avenue. Landmark Saloon may be surrounded on all sides by thirdwave coffee shops and yoga studios, but it’s holding its ground—turf that includes a patio space with enough room for horseshoes, cornhole and tables for the whole posse to enjoy Rainier tallboys and whiskey lemonades.

VICTORY BAR

3652 SE Division St., thevictorybar.com.

Long a local favorite, Victory Bar is often praised for what it isn’t—it isn’t shiny or new or overly contrived in a neighborhood long turned in that direction. Orwellian, Big Brother décor remains, the signature bourbon ginger cocktail ($8.75!) is still spicy and fresh, as is the Belgian-slanted beer selection, and the pub food (get the spaetzle) remains some of the best.

SOUTHEAST WINE COLLECTIVE

2425 SE 35th Place, 503-208-2061, sewinecollective. com. Closed Tuesdays.

This wee urban winery houses a dozen or so micro winemakers under one roof. Tour the operation and sample the wines at frequent tasting events, or just pop in for a glass or two and some excellent food in the Oui! Wine Bar and Restaurant. It’s like wine country without the commitment. INNER SOUTHEAST

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IMPERIAL BOTTLE SHOP & TAPROOM

SHOP

Whether you’re coming or going, Imperial is the perfect stop for beer. With 20 rotating taps pouring beautiful and bizarre beers and ciders from breweries across the country, plus hundreds more in bottles for on the premises or to go, just trying to make a choice resembles the cereal-aisle conundrum.

XTABAY

3090 SE Division St., 971-302-6899, imperialbottleshop.com.

WHISKEY SODA LOUNGE 3131 SE Division St., 503-232-0102, whiskeysodalounge.com.

Initially intended as a waiting room of sorts for popular Pok Pok, Whiskey Soda Lounge has become a destination in its own right. Of course, this is helped by a lineup of Asianinflected cocktails (try the tamarind whiskey sour) that become all the more drinkable when paired with the spicy, salty drinking snacks of Thailand—like deep-fried anchovies with Sriracha.

TOM’S BAR

3871 SE Division St., 503-233-1363, tomspdx.com.

Located next to its fellow titular restaurant, Tom’s Bar is nothing special to look at. Most of the time, it’s a sports bar with Skee-Ball. On Saturdays, it’s a dive bar with karaoke. Every day features pool tables and off-track betting, cheap drinks and kind bartenders. For more than three decades, Tom’s has been open every day of the year until 2:30 in the morning. Case closed.

DOTS CAFE

2521 SE Clinton St., 503-235-0203, dotscafeportland.com.

Part moody lounge, part diner with a Twin Peaks vibe, Dots Cafe is equally loved among the longtime neighborhood regulars and visiting hipsters. So whether it’s for late-night cocktails, weekend brunch or just a cup of coffee and slice of pie, you’ve come to the right place.

2515 SE Clinton St., 503-230-2899, xtabayvintage. com. Closed Monday-Wednesday.

As the vintage annex of bridal boutique the English Dept., Xtabay specializes in gorgeous, mint-condition vintage wear and accessories, from evening gowns to party dresses. Although reflected in the prices, the quality of the selection is worth it.

ARTIFACT: CREATIVE RECYCLE

3630 SE Division St., 503-230-4831, artifactpdx.com.

Artifact owner and curator Leah Meijer is the daughter of Marcee Meijer, who owns Village Merchants just up the street. Growing up, she learned the art of the find at many a garage sale. Her resale and consignment boutique features an eclectic selection of both clothing and furnishings to get you and your pad looking cooler than you thought possible on a budget.

CLINTON STREET RECORD & STEREO 2510 SE Clinton St., 503-235-5323, clintonstreetrecordandstereo.com.

This shoebox-size shop, run by R. Jared White (aka DJ Maxx Bass) and Aaron Heuberger of Mississippi Records, boasts an impressive array of new and used records, along with used stereo equipment so you can stop putting your phone into a cup.

SECRET FOREST BOOKS

3561 SE Division St., secretforest.org. Closed Saturday-Monday.

Calling Secret Forest a bookstore is the easy answer. If you need a book on metaphysics or the occult, you’re definitely in the right place. Beyond that, the dim, candlelit shop consists mostly of curtained rooms and many surprises. But if you want to see the forest, note the owners, you’ll need to have your third eye open.

CLINTON STREET MARKET 3400 SE Clinton St., 503-234-0372.

It looks like a crusty bodega where you buy weird herbal energy pills and off-brand smokes, but Clinton Street Market has adapted to its increasingly bougie neighborhood by also carrying a shockingly large collection of beer, including semi-rare imports and all your favorite locals.

CLINTON STREET MARKET | CJ Monserrat

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Horse Brass Pub Celebrating 41 Years of Craft Beer Est. 1976

Portland, Oregon USA 59 Craft and Specialty Beers on Tap TRADITIONAL ENGLISH PUB 4534 SOUTHEAST BELMONT STREET FINDER 2018

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NATIONALE | Emily Bernard Stevens

CLINTON STREET | Christine Dong

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PORTLAND’S PREMIER SUGARING STUDIO

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GO CLINTON STREET THEATER

2522 SE Clinton St., 503-238-5588, cstpdx.com.

One of the oldest, continuously operating movie houses in the country, Clinton Street opened in 1915 and remains a single-screen theater with 222 seats. In addition to the owners’ staunch support of independent film and local filmmakers, the Clinton has been screening The Rocky Horror Picture Show every Saturday at midnight since 1978. Get out your corsets.

NATIONALE

3360 SE Division St., 503-477-9786, nationale.us. Closed Wednesdays.

Part fine art gallery representing the work of a half-dozen (mostly local) artists and part minimalist bookstore, Nationale is a perfect stop for purchasing some grown art, finding a little inspiration, or just grabbing the latest copy of Strange Plants.

ENJOY THE BIKE BOULEVARD Southeast Clinton Street

Clinton Street is one of Portland’s most established bike boulevards. Recent enhancements and traffic barricades have further prioritized the road for cyclist use, making this neighborhood greenway safe for commuters and families alike. Enjoy the gentle downhill from Southeast 52nd Avenue all the way to 12th. Then cycle back up the hill past buzzing bars and luscious Craftsman homes. FINDER 2018

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LADD’S ADDITION SET APART FROM THE SURROUNDING AREA by its distinctive wagon-wheel layout, Ladd’s Addition is one of the oldest planned neighborhoods in the city and still maintains a suburban Americana vibe down quiet streets lined with towering trees and historic Craftsman homes. But running the perimeter, with Hawthorne to the north and Division to the south, you’ll find bustling hubs of activity—breweries and dive bars, food carts and vintage shops—with young entrepreneurs making themselves at home beside longtime residents. It’s a neighborhood that proves the old can coexist with the new for the benefit of everyone—that “set apart” does not have to imply exclusivity.

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LADD’S ADDITION ROSE GARDENS Southeast 16th Avenue and Harrison Street. Make an unexpected turn into Ladd’s Addition and you might find yourself hopelessly lost—and pleasantly surprised. Designed in the 1890s by merchant and former Portland Mayor William S. Ladd, the area is one of the first planned neighborhoods in the city, with streets that run diagonally from the surrounding blocks to form a wagon wheel design around a central traffic circle and small park. Four diamond-shaped gardens at the four points serve as micro plots for the larger International Rose Test Garden on the westside—without the crowds of Washington Park.

Courtesy of Portland City Archives

Ladd's Addition, visible from this 1950 aerial photograph as an "X," breaks up the otherwise rectilinear grid of the city.

EAT TEOTE

1615 SE 12th Ave., 971-888-5281, teotepdx.com. Lunch-late daily.

CHICKEN AND GUNS

1207 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 503-234-7236, chickenandguns.com. Lunch-late daily.

BLACKBIRD PIZZA

1935 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 503-236-5223, blackbirdpizzapdx.com. Lunch-late daily.

The fact Blackbird delivers until 2 am makes it an indispensable part of the neighborhood, but then you remember the signature 32-ounce Mason jar cocktails ($8). If you do come in for a pie (try the Reubenesque, with pastrami, sauerkraut and mustard; $20, $27), hit the upstairs pinball arcade while waiting. $.

The converted Craftsman that houses Teote has colorful surprises at every turn: daily aguas frescas (try the caramelized pineapple with a shot of tequila; $9), street food-style arepas—crispy little corn cakes topped with explosions de sabor like the El Diablo (shredded pork belly and roasted poblano chilies in a red chili maple sauce, $7.75), and a massive back patio complete with fire pit and occasional DJ. $.

Chicken and Guns serves chicken. The guns? That’s a nod to the co-owner’s travels through Latin America, where he witnessed soldiers grilling chicken on the roadside with guns strapped to their backs. But it’s also the name of the crispy potatoes served alongside spice-rubbed, wood-grilled chicken ($9 for a quarter bird). Perfectly charred, the chicken comes with fresh chimichurri sauce or a Peruvian style jalapeño-vinegar sauce. $.

BOTTLE ROCKET

CASTAGNA

AVIV

You’d be hard-pressed to find a restaurant in Portland that didn’t serve a burger, though food cart Bottle Rocket more than holds its own with an exceptionally well-made classic ($9)—juicy, hand-formed patty, green lettuce, crunchy pickles, onions both raw and grilled, and a dash of Sriracha mayo. And the fishsauce tots ($5)? Trust us, they’re good. $

Artful in both appearance and approach, Castagna delivers a 14-course seasonal tasting menu that might include anything from daikon simmered in antelope heart broth to a single slice of amberjack sashimi flown from Tokyo. You could say Castagna is arguably the best fine dining experience in Portland, except it’s unlikely anyone would argue. $$$$.

At this Mediterranean spot, the flavors are so bright and the colors so hypnotic you might not even realize the menu is entirely vegan. But who needs meat or dairy with options like creamy harissa hummus ($8), wild mushroom “calamari” ($12) and coconut malabi with pistachios and strawberry preserves ($5)? $$.

1207 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 971-279-4663. Lunch-late daily.

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752 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 503-231-7373, castagnarestaurant.com. Dinner Wednesday-Saturday.

NIMBLEFISH

1524 SE 20th Ave., 503-719-4064, nimblefishpdx.com. Dinner daily.

Though it may be the new kid on the block, this sushi destination already has amassed quite the reputation. The uni (sea urchin) has been described “as if God distilled the sea to its vital essence.” With superlatives like that, you won’t get out on the cheap, but it will be worth it. $$$$. 1125 SE Division St., 503-206-6280, avivpdx.com. Lunch and dinner daily.

WILL AMETTE WEEK

DRINK

SHOP

APEX

MAGPIE

So it’s sunny out and you’d like to enjoy a beer on a patio somewhere? Congrats— everyone in Portland just had the same idea. Luckily, there is Apex. With a patio twice the size of its indoor space and a rotating tap list to make even the hautiest of beer connoisseurs weep. Pro tip: Order a burrito at Los Gorditos next door to enjoy with a pint of Pliny the Elder.

A lot of shops that claim the “vintage” label really mean distressed ’90s Levis snagged at Goodwill and repriced for the boutique shopper. Magpie is more, stocking highquality pieces ranging from ’20s bathing costumes to ’60s cocktail attire. Take the time to read the handwritten price tags, each offering a poetic description of the item.

1216 SE Division St., 503-273-9227, apexbar.com.

SCOUT BEER AND TAPROOM

1516 SE 10th Ave., 503-206-4735, scoutpdx.com.

With a playful approach and adventurous spirit, Scout brews with a befittingly exploratory mindset. Try a perfect pairing of the Anaphylactic Peanut Butter Porter with the Jam, a red ale brewed with marionberries. Add an order of churro tots (tater tots tossed with cinnamon sugar and topped with vanilla ice cream; $7) just for fun.

NO FUN BAR (AND DEVIL’S DILL) 1709 SE Hawthorne Blvd., devilsdill.com.

No Fun is not an elevated sports pub or a preProhibition-style cocktail den. It is a bar. A bar-themed bar, in that you go there to drink drinks, chat with people and occasionally hear live music. It’s owned by the Devil’s Dill sandwich shop next door, which serves its nine delicious sandwiches until 3 am.

THE FIRKIN TAVERN

1937 SE 11th Ave., 503-206-7552, thefirkintavern.com.

From the generic exterior to the lone pool table atop dingy carpets, the Firkin Tavern is a dive to be sure, which is precisely what makes it so lovable. Hosting bands often making their first debut outside of a garage, the Firkin has free shows at least three times a week. Factor in $3 draft beers during a three-hour happy hour every day and you just found your new neighborhood hangout.

BAERLIC BREWING

2235 SE 11th Ave., 503-477-9418, baerlicbrewing.com.

1960 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 503-946-1153.

OUI PRESSE

LONGFELLOWS BOOKS

1401 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 503-239-5222, longfellowspdx.com. Closed Sunday.

Easy to spot from the Alice in Wonderland tea party mural covering the entire north wall, Longfellows has been dealing in rare books and historic periodicals for nearly four decades. Founder Jon Hagen died this past spring, but his son, Nile Hagen, continues to run the store. Browse away (some books date to the 17th century), and don’t miss the vintage ephemera in the basement.

1740 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 503-384-2160, oui-presse.com

A clever name for a space that functions both as a cafe and lilliputian newsstand, Oui Presse is just as adorable as it sounds. Swing by to pick up a copy of The New Yorker and stay for a bowl of the soup du jour or a slice of homemade pistachio cake while you read.

REALLY GOOD STUFF

1322 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 503-238-1838.

Like a hoarder house minus the stacks of newspapers and cat litter, Really Good Stuff is crammed from floor to ceiling with intrigue. Whether you’re looking for some dining chairs, a potentially functioning accordion or vintage mannequin limbs, chances are you will find them. And if you see Tommy, the orange tabby, give him a scratch behind the ears.

LOUNGE LIZARD

1310 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 503-232-7575, pdxloungelizard.com.

Still on the hunt for that midcentury velvet sofa in the perfect shade of tangerine? Look no further than Lounge Lizard’s eclectic and impressively stocked secondhand showroom. Stroll by once the sun goes down to appreciate a dazzling display of hundreds of suspended lamps, sporting repro ’50s shades crafted in-house.

FUNHOUSE LOUNGE

2432 SE 11th Ave., 503-841-6734, funhouselounge. com. Closed Monday and Tuesday.

With an entire room devoted to portraits of clowns, including a Christ-like Ronald McDonald, the Funhouse Lounge may seem a bit of a niche hangout. But with multiple live performances every week, from comedy to improv to drag musical, the appeal of the kitschy fringe theater is undeniable.

THE HAT MUSEUM

1928 SE Ladd Ave., 503-319-0799, thehatmuseum. com. Tours available Friday and Saturday.

The historic Ladd-Reingold House, built in 1910 by early Portland Mayor William Ladd, is an attraction all by itself, with backward doors, secret hiding spots and a ceiling mermaid mural. It is also home to the Hat Museum. With more than 1,000 hats from vintage to novelty to modern, the museum boasts the largest collection in the country. Note: Reservations are required for the tour.

THEATRE VERTIGO

2110 SE 10th Ave., 503-482-8655, theatrevertigo.org.

With a penchant for dark comedy and darker political satire, Theatre Vertigo will tap into your inner cynic, in a good way. Making impressive use of the shoebox space, Theatre Vertigo is now in its 20th season and continues to push the bounds in ways only community theater can.

Baerlic’s bright, airy taproom is matched by the impossibly fresh beer being poured, like the crisp Dad Beer pre-Prohibition lager and the fresh-hopped Hellsner (Willamette Week’s No. 3 Oregon Beer of the Year 2017). Though precise, drinkable beers is the norm, Baerlic is not afraid to get experimental: Witness Acid Drop, a dry-hopped sour.

THE BEERMONGERS

1125 SE Division St., 503-234-6012, thebeermongers.com.

In addition to beer schwag, Timbers flair, and sports paraphernalia plastering the walls, the BeerMongers somehow manages to find space for 600-plus bottles of beer and cider from around the globe, easily functioning as one of Portland’s best bottle shops for nearly a decade. Take a six-pack to go or stay for a pint from one of eight rotating taps.

NO FUN | Henry Cromett

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INDUSTRIAL EASTSIDE

HE INDUSTRIAL EASTSIDE HAS ALWAYS BEEN the middle of everything. When streetcar lines first ran along Union Avenue—what is now Martin Luther King Jr. Boulevard—Italian immigrants established fresh produce stands near the stops, laying a foundation for Produce Row. A few of those vendors remain, conjoined nowadays with third-wave cafes and voguing dance studios. To this point, gentrification has been blessedly incremental—with hyped bars opening and closing around Old Portland businesses like Sheridan Fruit Co., which has sold locally grown meats and produce in the same location since 1916 and has been operated by the Poleo brothers’ family since 1946. Buildings that were converted into wine lockers and storage units are now being reconverted into creative studios for spillover from the design hubs taking root nearby. Not one, but two outposts of Tokyo-born ramen standouts can be found in this part of town. Similarly, you can experience the best Russian bar in America twice in this one ’hood. Meantime, the pentagrammed ceiling of the Lovecraft (Portland’s horror-themed nightclub) and the unchanged, caramel-colored leather booths at My Father’s Place manage to keep the Industrial Eastside grounded.

BY LAUREN YOSHIKO I’ve been here the past five years, writing about cannabis and the arts for Willamette Week , Broccoli and Rolling Stone , and I am the editor of this edition of WW ’s Finder. Although I’m currently a westsider, you’ll see me across the river picking up Girl Scout Cookies at Farma, inhaling a plate of salt and pepper chicken at Powell’s Seafood, and then sweating it all out at Löyly. NEIGHBORHOOD NOTES The small population of Italian immigrants who settled into the Inner Eastside in the early 1900s planted small vegetable gardens next to their homes to sell to urban produce stands along the streetcar line, laying a foundation for Produce Row and Portland’s farmers market culture. You might recognize the decommissioned USS Blueback (SS-581) submarine docked beside OMSI from an episode of Hawaii Five-O in the 1970s and the 1990 film The Hunt for Red October .

SHERIDAN FRUIT CO., 1929 | Courtesy of City of Portland Archives

THE PICKS WHERE TO GRAB A CUP OF JOE, BUY WEED, WALK YOUR POOCH, AND PICK UP GROCERIES.

COAVA 1300 SE Grand Ave. 503-894-8134 coavacoffee.com

FARMA 916 SE Hawthorne Blvd. 503-206-4357 farmapdx.com

VERA KATZ EAST BANK ESPLANADE SE Water Ave. and Hawthorne Blvd.

SHERIDAN FRUIT CO. 409 SE MLK Jr. Blvd. 503-236-2114 sheridanfruit.com

SOUTHEAST MLK DRIVING NORTH ON SOUTHEAST GRAND AVENUE, it’s easy to go from OMSI to East Burnside Street without noticing a thing besides the unchanged mallards flying across the painted exterior of Andy & Bax. By day, these streets are primarily filled with people going to and from work. But park your car on any one of those side streets as the sun sets, and you’re immersed in a playground of bars and buzzworthy happy-hour eateries. There aren’t enough weekends in the year to fully appreciate the variety of nightlife branching off from Martin Luther King Jr. Boulevard.

EAT AFURI

923 SE 7th Ave., 503-468-5001, afuripdx.com. Lunch and dinner daily.

Imagine a ramen joint married an izakaya and gave birth to a sushi joint. That’s Tokyo-born Afuri. Here you will encounter sake sommeliers, miso black-cod plates, spoonfuls of composed crudo, and artisanal cocktails. And yet, the best item on the menu remains a romantic yuzu miso ramen—a fish-flake and chicken broth that blooms with vegetable flavor. $$.

KACHKA

960 SE 11th Ave., kachkapdx.com. Lunch-late daily.

In Russia, to dine is to drink, and a restaurant is always a party. And in Portland, there’s no food party quite like Kachka. Recently divided and expanded into new digs with an open-flame grill and a deli, you’ll still find beyond-the-pale Russian comfort food like a golubtsi cabbage roll and tender pelmeni dumplings in “fancy broth” made with beef tongue and veal terrine. $$-$$$.

Henry Cromett

TRIFECTA TAVERN

726 6th Ave., 503-841-6675, trifectapdx.com. Dinner nightly.

Trifecta is where Rizzo and Kenickie would’ve gone for dinner and drinks if they’d grown up, put all that high school bullshit behind them, and gotten glam jobs in advertising. The third restaurant from bread-and-pizza master Ken Forkish is at once a cocktail haven, an eastside Ken’s Bakery, and a restaurant devoted to American comforts from baked oysters to woodfired chicken with white corn grits. The look is approachable swank. $$$.

TAQUERIA NUEVE

727 SE Washington St., 503-954-1987, taquerianueve. com. Dinner Tuesday-Sunday.

At Portland’s original bougie taco spot, $4 tacos are as great as you’d expect and include slightly crispy wild-boar carnitas, rich and fatty pan-fried brisket, and spice-kissed grilled organic chicken. The smooth and lime-heavy guacamole is the best in town, and if the margs are maybe a scooch better at Xico, they’re $2 cheaper and noticeably stronger here. $.

J&M CAFE

537 SE Ash St., 503-230-0463, jandmcafepdx.com. Breakfast and lunch daily.

As solid a brunch spot as you can find this close to the river without a line out the front door, J&M is a pleasant treasure. Its bright, airy atmosphere is free of cutesy excess or strict aesthetics. It’s just here to provide everyone’s favorites—biscuits and gravy, a tasty Mediterranean scramble, French toast and savory home fries, to name a few— without any fuss. $.

must

CREEPY’S 627 SE Morrison St., 503-8890185, creepys.business.site. I am a bitter fourth-generation Portlander who doesn’t often get excited about new bars. But the first time I walked into the dark, unabashedly kooky yet well-appointed Creepy’s, I remembered what it’s like to sense—instantly—that I’m going to have a good time. Taking cues from the committed weirdness of Portland yore, Creepy’s looks like a nightmare carnival-themed parlor where the paintings shift their gaze at you from across the room and deep-fried peanuts serve as a bar snack. The classic cocktails (think spins on a highball, Pimm’s cup and oldfashioned) are a quality bang for your buck at around $9, but the real gem is a boozy coffee slushie ($7) topped with coffee grounds.

RENATA

626 SE Main St., 503-954-2708, renatapdx.com. Dinner nightly.

Chef Matthew Sigler’s pastas have set a new standard for Portland’s Italian scene, delivering an umami punch balanced with a little brightness on perfectly al dente noodles. The ever-shifting menu features dishes like a pork-filled agnolotti bathed in butter, with cheese, sultanas and fat strips of maltagliati tossed with chanterelles. Even the $10 bread plate——at first a minor scandal——is worth it for the house-cultured butter and portion size. $$$.

ROBO TACO

607 SE Morrison St., 503-232-3707, robotacopdx.com. Lunch-late daily.

Envision a perfectly chill taco cart—plus a roof, a smattering of Transformers toys, and retro vinyl chairs. That’s Robo Taco, whose simple menu starts with tacos ($2.75 each, and $4.75 for the fish and oyster versions). Wash them down with a margarita, a Mexican beer, or Jarritos. $. FINDER 2018

RENATA | Emily Joan Greene

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STAR BAR

639 SE Morrison St., 503-232-5553, star-bar-rocks.com.

STAR BAR | CJ Monserrat

DANWEI CANTING

BAR CASA VALE

Ever since Portland’s Chinatown moved east to 82nd Avenue and beyond, decent Chinese food in the center of Portland has been hard to find. Danwei Canting changed that with a showstopping menu of Beijing street fare. The la zi ji chicken, aka hot pepper chicken bath, is easily the best version of this Sichuanese dish to hit town since Lucky Strike’s tear-jerkingly hot rendition. $.

In the year since WW named Bar Casa Vale 2017 Bar of the Year, the place has gone through more changes than Trump’s cabinet. Former St. Jack sous chef Jacob Harth took over the kitchen with paella, excellent short ribs and prix fixe feasts. The heat-lamped, covered patio and some of the finest cocktails in town remain—including a caramelized rum and PX sherry old-fashioned ($10).

803 SE Stark St., 503-236-6050, danweicanting.com. Lunch and dinner daily.

215 SE 9th Ave. (entrance on Pine Street), 503-4779081, barcasavale.com.

MARUKIN

MODERN TIMES

Every day, at both its east- and westside locations, Tokyo-founded Marukin serves our favorite Portland ramen: a tonkotsu shoyu pork-bone broth light for the style yet still buttery in its depths. Additional broths rotate among miso made from thousandyear-old recipes. All can be made spicy. All are excellent. $.

It’s eerie walking into the Belmont Fermentorium, the new Portland outpost of San Diego’s rapidly expanding Modern Times Brewing—it’s like a team of retro-obsessed vegans had moved in and started a tech company. A 40-foot, shiny piñata looms above the 24 taps busting out better-than-average hazy IPAs and truly excellent sours and coffee stouts. Portlanders are not used to paying $7 for 5 ounces of beer, but even on a Tuesday, it’s like a beer-fueled nightclub in here.

609 SE Ankeny St., Suite A, marukinramen.com. Lunch and dinner daily.

DRINK

630 SE Belmont St., 503-420-0799, moderntimesbrewing.com.

CENTURY KACHINKA

720 SE Grand Ave., 503-235-0059, kachkapdx.com.

This summer, the best Russian restaurant in America split into two. Kachka, once Willamette Week’s Restaurant of the Year (and always a favorite), moved into larger digs on Southeast 11th, while the bar-centric Kachinka established itself in the original location on Southeast Grand. Think happyhour bites all night long: $9 dumplings, $6 Moscow mules, and a slew of cocktails for under $10—to say nothing of Kachka’s housemade vodkas (the horseradish infusion is a revelation).

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930 SE Sandy Blvd., 503-446-6418, centurybarpdx.com.

Depending on what’s playing on the four drop-down flat-screens, you’ll find either rambunctious basketball fans or bespectacled art majors packed into Century’s sloping, wooden bleacher-style booths. The ability to draw diverse crowds is one of the many benefits of trading in ESPN for cult movie screenings every Monday—as well as the occasional bingo night or screening of RuPaul’s Drag Race. House cocktails range from $8 to $11, or choose from seven rotating drafts ($6) and a tallboy of Tecate ($4). This is one of those places where a night out is truly a spectator sport.

Star Bar is no doubt a tallboy-and-American Spirits kinda place, but as long as your denim is dirty and your eardrums are blown, you won’t receive any side eye for ordering a pint of Pfriem ($5), a Sex on the Beach slushie ($6) or a plate of wings ($6.50). Entertainment comes from DJs, an Aerosmith pinball machine and raucous live music.

CASCADE BARREL HOUSE 939 SE Belmont St., 503-265-8603, cascadebrewingbarrelhouse.com.

When Cascade started making sours, it pretty much had the game to itself—locally, at least. Fifteen years ago, the brewery started stuffing some leftover fruit and bacteria into the wooden barrels. That experiment resulted in the birth of a kriek that was named the best in the world by The New York Times, bringing in an endless stream of tourists to Cascade’s Belmont taproom.

RUM CLUB

720 SE Sandy Blvd., 503-265-8807, rumclubpdx.com.

Pull up a chair at the African mahogany bar, or grab a seat next to Jacques, the 400-pound wooden bear in the corner, and head to the tropics via the Club’s house daiquiri ($10) or a $5 cuba libre during happy hour 4 to 6 pm daily. The rum-averse will enjoy Touch of Evil, a smooth, smoky and peppery mezcal drink, or the $5 gin and tonics also served during happy hour.

WHITE OWL SOCIAL CLUB

1305 SE 8th Ave., 503-236-9672, whiteowlsocialclub.com.

By day, White Owl functions as a relaxed post-work hangout thanks to a dozen spacious booths inside and rows of picnic tables on the enormous patio, bolstered by a stellar happy hour (3 to 6 pm daily with $4 drafts and $6 cocktails). At night, especially during warmer months, White Owl morphs into a line-out-the-door party bar, with DJs and live bands scheduled most evenings. WILL AMETTE WEEK

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SLOW BAR

BIT HOUSE SALOON

Few places can pull off $3 Rainier, a metalbased soundtrack, Duchesse de Bourgogne on tap ($6.50) and above-average cocktails quite like Slow Bar. It uses its own singlebarrel Woodford Reserve bourbon for the house Manhattan ($10), Portland Potato Vodka for Northern Lemonade ($8), and Allen Brothers Angus beef for the seriously famous Slowburger: a leaning tower of onion rings, Gruyère, butter lettuce, relish and aioli atop a half-pound patty with fries ($13).

Bit House isn’t particularly cool or new, or divey in an interesting way. It’s just a good bar—a good bar that serves a great house Manhattan and is home to the most underrated patio in this deck-friendly neighborhood. To reach that patio, march through the deceptively large indoor area, past the photo booth and out the rear door, to a quaint secluded outdoor space with large flowering trees that’s never half as packed as Rontoms.

533 SE Grand Ave., 503-230-7767, slowbar.net.

727 SE Grand Ave., 503-954-3913, bithousesaloon.com.

MY FATHER’S PLACE

523 SE Grand Ave., 503-235-5494, myfathersplacepdx.com.

With surly, take-no-shit service and an unbeatable breakfast menu available open to close (6 am to 2:30 am 365 days a year), this dive diner is where to go at the end of a night of cool-bar hopping—a real respite when the oppressive preciousness of New Portland gets to be too much.

SHOP ALMA CHOCOLATIER

1323 SE 7th Ave., 971-279-4133, almachocolate.com.

Inspired by her grandmother’s name, Alma—“soul” in Spanish and “nourish” in Latin—Hart started playing with chocolate recipes that spoke to cacao’s rich cultural history as a godly food. Alma Chocolatier is now known for iconic molds in the shape of a flaming corazon and La Virgen Guadalupe, hand-gilded in 24-karat edible gold leaf. Portland may be a relatively agnostic city, but we have plenty of treats worthy of higher beings.

SHRUNKEN HEAD SKATEBOARDS 531 SE Morrison St., 503-232-4323, shrunkenheadskateboards.com.

For 12 years, Shrunken Head has supplied the inner eastside with the decks, wheels, Thrasher tees and Vans sneakers the skateboard community needs. Localize your new Krooked or Antihero board with wheels decorated with illustrations by artist Jess Mudgett. You can also get a custom shirt made by the screen printer on the premises.

THE LOVECRAFT

421 SE Grand Ave., thelovecraftbar.com.

A windowless dance bar, the Lovecraft was basically designed for having fun while still sulking in corners. This horror-themed hangout hosts kink-themed DJ nights, queer parties with drag-star headliners and goththemed burlesque—all of it shrouded in fog. When you need an even darker vantage point, head past the dance floor into the backroom for a chill in the full-size coffin. LOVECRAFT | Sam Gehrke

THE DO’S AND DON’TS OF CANNABIS IN PORTLAND Welcome to the most interesting place in the world to enjoy cannabis. We stand by the assertion that you’ll find the finest, safest and most trustworthy cannabis in the world here. Whether you intend to smoke it–or not, here’s what to know about recreational Rip City.

DO: Smoke at your house or a friend’s—so long as you’re at least 21 years of age and out of public view when you light up. DON’T: Smoke on the street or at a park. Technically, cannabis can only be consumed within a private residence, but... there is some wiggle room. DO: Enjoy that wiggle room at one of Portland’s cannabis house parties–from the women-only Tokeativity events, where you can dance, get a tarot reading, and shop local artisans–to Live at HiFi Farms concerts and the crafty Make & Mary art classes.

DON’T: Forget your ID when you visit a dispensary, even if you don’t intend to buy anything. To see inside, you’ll need state-issued identification or a passport. DO: Buy something at a dispensary. Oregon has the strictest testing laws in the world, bans the most pesticides, and is home to the cleanest iterations of cannabis’s ideal growing climate. DONT: Just walk to the nearest shop. There are over 300 shops in the Portland area—all offering their own unique experiences.

Illustration by Olivia Lynch

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WILL AMETTE WEEK

ANDY AND BAX OUTDOOR STORE 324 SE Grand Ave., 503-234-7538, andyandbax.com.

Andy and Bax may be the one store every single type of Oregonian enjoys. Outdoorspeople head for the camping supply section or grab a raft downstairs. Survivalists can pick up an Army field manual for $7.97 and an 18-inch machete. And everyone else browses the mountainous array of helmets, combat boots, do-rags, camouflage gear and every color of duct tape you can imagine.

FSO

833 SE Main St., No. 232, 503-490-6985.

Though the name stands for “For Strippers Only,” this lingerie and bikini boutique is for everyone who wants a handcrafted thong tailored to fit a specific body. Or a pair of booty shorts that won’t budge during pole class. Owner Terasa Gilliam handmakes every piece and routinely designs custom orders for everything from cosplay costumes to bridal bikinis with mini veils on the bottoms.

WILDFANG

1230 SE Grand Ave., 503-208-3631, wildfang.com.

Birthplace of the “Wild Feminist” tee, Wildfang has become the outfitter of the modern woman with a tomboy edge. This location—though more mild-tempered than the West End’s flagship—boasts the same tailored button-ups, patterned two-piece suits, gleaming patent-leather oxfords, and Carharrt jackets that appeal across the gender spectrum to all seeking a well-fitted, street-smart addition to their wardrobe.

UNA

922 SE Ankeny St., 503-235-2326, unanegozio.com.

Una is one of the newer gems upping the game in Portland’s indie retail scene. The shop’s curated selection of chic local and international designers goes beyond the latest in shift dresses and flowy pant sets to include high-end Italian leather mules and Tracy Tanner iridescent clutches.

MOTHER FOUCAULT’S BOOKSHOP 523 SE Morrison St., 503-236-2665.

Free of the crowds and sheer magnitude of Powell’s, a visit to Mother Foucault’s is like falling in love with reading all over again— that is, if classic literature, avant-garde poetry and philosophy in a cozy, multilevel library à la 1910s Paris is your cup of tea. Mother F’s does deal in used books, but don’t even think about trying to sell ’em your tattered copy of Old Yeller…unless, that is, it’s in Italian.

OTA TOFU

812 SE Stark St., 503-232-8947.

You know this is a farm-to-table, foodie town when the oldest tofu maker in America gets taken for granted. Ota has been making it in the same way for the past hundred years—a clear difference you can taste in the creamy, perfectly textured bricks. Descendants of the Ota family still run the place, whose only pause came during World War II, when the family was imprisoned at the Minidoka internment camp.

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Milagro Theatre's production of Watsonville

SHAKING THE TREE THEATRE

GO AZTEC MURAL

Southeast Taylor Street and 6th Avenue.

If you can locate this narrow alleyway via 6th or 7th avenues, a treasure of a mural depicting ancient gods and primordial scenes of Mexican folklore will reveal itself to you in all its vibrant glory. I can’t name the artist, but a resident of the apartment building who was smoking a cigarette next to me credited one of her neighbors.

MILAGRO THEATRE

525 SE Stark St., 503-236-7253, milagro.org.

Founded in 1985, Teatro Milagro is a destination in the Pacific Northwest for bilingual performances inspired by Latino culture and experiences. Recent shows include The Mermaid Hour by David Valdes Greenwood, a journey of identity through the story of Violet, a 12-year-old transgender girl, and Watsonville: Some Place Not Here, which centers on a group of Mexican cannery workers in 1990s Watsonville, Calif.

Courtesy of Milagro Theatre

VOICEBOX

734 SE 6th Ave., 503-303-8220, voiceboxkaraoke.com.

Recognizing that our country’s cover of karaoke lost something in translation, Voicebox embraced the traditional Japanese format while incorporating 21st-century tech to heighten convenience and further eliminate the intrusion of others. Enter a private room reserved for you and your party, start singing along to something from the staggering library, and manipulate a remote to perfect tone and lighting—disco setting available!

GRAND CENTRAL BOWL 808 SE Morrison St., 503-236-2695, thegrandcentralbowl.com.

Usually, bowling alleys are a suburban pastime—ironic remnants of a bygone era. Grand Central Bowl, on the other hand, is in the heart of the Industrial Eastside, operating as a semi-athletic pregaming hub before rolling out to myriad surrounding bars, or an entire evening of fun with arcade games: black-light bowling from 7 pm to close on weekends, and boozy movie screenings in partnership with local breweries.

823 SE Grant St., 503-235-0635, shaking-the-tree.com.

A DIY theater inside a cleared-out warehouse, Shaking the Tree has a set a standard for low-budget, high-impact performances of controversial works. When the theater opened in 2016, the first show was an ambitious production of The Maids, a raunchy chamber play about murderous, sadomasochistic French maids. This year’s season will include The Wolf by Samantha Van Der Merwe, a visual and auditory exploration of desire and gender through the fairy tale lens of Little Red Riding Hood.

PORTLAND FLEA & FOOD

Southeast Salmon Street and 6th Avenue, pdxflea.com. 11 am-4 pm last Sunday of the month.

Located in the back lot of Rejuvenation Hardware, this modest market is less rustic flea market and more chic outdoor boutique. You can drink a beer while you browse. Shop clothes racks courtesy of stores like Mister Sister, Iz It vintage and Vintalier, as well as small-batch apothecary products, jewelry and handmade furnishings. Don’t forget to check out the Jacobsen Sea Salt and Bee Local Honey shop across the street, where you can sample the dozens of Netarts Bay-made salt infusions.

HELIUM COMEDY CLUB

1510 SE 9th Ave., 888-643-8669, heliumcomedy.com.

This is where you see major comedians like Margaret Cho and T.J. Miller take the stage following openers made up of the funniest people in Portland. The city’s premier comedy club also happens to sit on the same block as Farma, the dispensary most frequently voted Portland’s best. You’re not allowed to smoke inside either establishment, but I’ll let you put two and two together.

PIPS & BOUNCE

2311, 833 SE Belmont St., 503-928-4664, pipsandbounce.com.

You know those beer pong bars striving to capitalize on college nostalgia? Pips & Bounce is no place to go for beer pong nostalgia. It’s for $8-to-$10 craft cocktails, Korean bulgogi sliders, and straight-up, no-frills pingpong. If you walk in, tables are firstcome, first-served and $16 for 30 minutes, $39 an hour if you call ahead. Pips & Bounce knows you came to play, so its trusty helpers take care of retrieving balls for you.

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AZTEC MURAL | Rosie Struve

WILL AMETTE WEEK

BREAKFAST AROUND THE CLOCK It’s always time for the day’s most important meal.

10:00 am

JAM ON HAWTHORNE 2239 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 503-234-4790, jamonhawthorne.com. 7:30 am-3 pm daily. It’s officially brunch, so head to a family-filled and vegan-friendly destination that’s remained one of the city’s favorite brunch spots.

9:00 am

FUEL 1452 NE Alberta St., 503335-3835, fuelpdx.com. 7 am-4 pm daily. An unpretentious, comfortable sit-down spot with well-sourced local ingredients and the inexplicable absence of a line on a weekend morning.

11:00 am

BIJOU CAFE 132 SW 3rd Ave., 503222-3187, bijoucafepdx. com. 8 am-2 pm daily. Bijou was making a business of brunch 20 years before the rest of this city, and the omelets and sausages were made from locally raised animals long before consumers started demanding it.

Midnight

CREEPY’S 627 SE Morrison St., 503-889-0185, creepys. business.site. Yes, this is a bar. But you’re still in the middle of a night out, and that egg-and-cheese sandwich with a crispy slice of Taylor’s pork roll is starting to look good.

1:00 am

STEPPING STONE CAFE 2390 NW Quimby St., 503-222-1132, steppingstonecafe.com. 6 am-7 pm MondayTuesday, 6 am-9 pm Wednesday-Thursday, 6 am-3 am Friday and Saturday, 7:30 am-9 pm Sunday. Every westsider’s favorite diner, where classic breakfasts are good and greasy enough for an episode of Man vs. Food. Page 42.

2:00 am

MY FATHER’S PLACE 523 SE Grand Ave., 503-235-5494, myfathersplacepdx.com. 6 am-2:30 am daily. The best way to end a bar crawl through the Industrial Eastside. Page 142.

3:00 am

THE ROXY 1121 SW Stark St., 503223-9160, theroxydiner. com. Open 24 hours. I consider a witchinghour meal at this queerfriendly, weird-in-thebest-Old-Portland-way diner a fundamental rite of passage for young Portlanders.

8:00 am

SCREEN DOOR 2337 E Burnside St., 503-542-0880, screendoorrestaurant. com. 8 am-2 pm Monday-Friday, 9 am2:30 pm Saturday and Sunday. Even if it’s the weekend, get there at 8 am for a spot in line at this celebrated, Southerninspired brunch destination–and don’t forget a latte to drink while you wait.

FINDER 2018

Illustration by Olivia Lynch

4:00 am

7:00 am

PEARL BAKERY 102 NW 9th Ave., 503827-0910, pearlbakery. com. 6:30 am-4 pm Monday-Friday, 7 am-4 pm Saturday, 8 am-4 pm Sunday. Step up the counter to order the best goddamn breakfast sandwich in town, with crispy bacon extending beyond all edges of the freshbaked croissant.

6:00 am

LOVEJOY BAKERS 939 NW 10th Ave., 503208-3113, lovejoybakers. com. 6 am-5 pm daily. Two words: Lovejoy Deluxe. It’s a breakfast sandwich with fried egg, bacon and frisée smothered in a bleu d’auvergne dressing, all on a fresh ciabatta bun.

ORIGINAL HOTCAKE HOUSE 1002 SE Powell Blvd., 503-236-7402, hotcakehouse.com. Open 24 hours. Where every breed of Portlander heads at the end of the best and worst kind of nights. See page 151.

5:00 am

VOODOO DOUGHNUT 22 SW 3rd Ave., 503-2414704, voodoodoughnut. com. Open 24 hours. It’s the only time you won’t have to wait in line.

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PRODUCE R O W/ WAT E R DISTRICT THE WATER DISTRICT IS A CHARISMATIC ALTERNATIVE to the west waterfront. Long dismissed as a warren of manufacturing facilities, these old blocks now contain cool eateries and niche furniture stores. Storage units are being rented out as “creative spaces.” But a handful of distributors and warehouses continue the Produce Row rhythms of the past century, uninterrupted by the ’90s-themed bar crawl of flannel-clad college students crossing the street—who balance out what could easily become another soulless, gentrified adult playground. Get a coffee at Water Avenue, take in the window diorama at the Lippman Co. party supply store on the way down the East Bank Esplanade, and see the Willamette in a whole new light.

SE MORRISON STREET AND WATER AVENUE, 1910 | Courtesy of City of Portland Archives

REVELRY

210 SE Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd., 971-339-3693. Dinner-late nightly.

Against a backdrop of loud hip-hop, graffitistyle murals and a wall of vintage ghetto blasters, acclaimed Seattle chef Rachel Yang serves up artfully plated Korean drinking snacks. Stop by on Tuesday for spicy fried chicken tossed with crumbled peanut brittle and a PBR ($5). After dark, it doesn’t matter if it’s a weekday—it’s always Saturday night at Revelry. $-$$.

THE FRIED ONION

Southeast 3rd Avenue and Alder Street, 503-961-2534, thefriedonion.com. Lunch Monday-Friday.

Warning: This New York expat-owned hot dog cart may tack on a surcharge of $1.25 if you mention you’re a Red Sox fan. So, Fenway Park fans, keep your mouths shut so you can enjoy a classic New York dog served with sauerkraut and/or fried onions still sizzling from the grill out front for $4.50. The Spicy Russian Rover—Muenster cheese, Mama Lil’s peppers and spicy Russian dressing—is a tad more but worth it ($5.75). $.

BUNK BAR

must EAT STACKED

1643 SE 3rd Ave., 971-279-2731, stackedsandwichshop.com. Lunch and dinner TuesdaySunday, brunch on weekends.

Among the most inventive sandwich spots in town, Stacked offers classics executed to peak gourmet, but in a much chiller setting. My favorite is the smoked turkey hero— —made with house bacon, provolone, Mama Lil’s peppers, red onion, iceberg lettuce, Dijonnaise and Italian vinaigrette on a hoagie ($12.50). If your little ones don’t have so broad a palate, treat ’em to the simplified kids’ menu. $-$$. FINDER 2018

CITY LIQUIDATORS 823 SE 3rd Ave., 503-230-7716, cityliquidators.com. Flapping multicolor flags marking this treasured two-building megastore offer an appropriately carnivallike signifier of this weirdly fun emporium. This is the best place to find smart purchases of new and used furniture and the odds and ends in between. One of the expansive rooms is dedicated to those extras—like a really good Pier 1-brand dollar store combined with the “household items” aisle of an Asian food store. City Liquidators is a terrific place to spend a few hours browsing away a Saturday afternoon without making much of a dent in your wallet.

1028 SE Water Ave., 503-328-2865, bunksandwiches. com. Lunch-late daily.

You can come to Bunk Bar for a very good Italian sandwich ($10) and leave satisfied with the stack of ham, Olympia Provisions salami cotto, capicola, house-marinated peppers and provolone piccante. You can also come here for happy-hour drinks and an order of gravy fries, or beers and a live show for under $10. Whatever your approach, it’s hard to leave Bunk disappointed. $.

OLYMPIA PROVISIONS

107 SE Washington St., 503-954-3663, olympiaprovisions.com. Lunch-late daily.

Olympia Provisions is the OG meat curer of Portland. Although its pepperoni sticklets have made their way into every boutique in the Northwest, there’s nothing like the charcuterie board in this airy warehouse space. PDX salumist laureate Elias Cairo’s cured meat empire combines a restaurant with a spacious Euro-styled deli featuring cheeses, pates and OP’s signature array of locally sourced, globally feted house charcuterie. $-$$. INDUSTRIAL EASTSIDE

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DRINK

SHOP

ELVIS ROOM

CARGO

Sandy Hut’s cool little brother rarely plays Elvis, but this two-level, dual-experience bar is like a cheap, sequined hip thrust in the middle of a proper Southern cotillion. The upstairs room is all gold leaf and white walls lined with tchotchkes, and the downstairs bar is a dimly lit tavern with hidden tables (and urinating Cupid statues) in darker corners. Don’t be afraid to wander—your tab will follow you. Note: $3 mimosas all day Monday.

Remember Oriental Trading Company party supply catalogs? This is not that. Cargo’s enormous retail space is a foreign voyage in itself, abounding with high-quality goods and art from across the world. Find goldleaf lanterns and ornately carved wooden furnishings next to crisp cotton yukata robes and chic, stackable beaded jewelry, all sourced directly from the artists in Guatemala, Vietnam, the Philippines, Mali and beyond.

203 SE Grand Ave., 503-235-5690.

WAYFINDER

304 SE 2nd Ave., 503-718-2337, wayfinder.beer.

Wayfinder is home to seriously good cocktails, excellent nachos, the Industrial Eastside’s most coveted patio space and great German brews from Kevin Davey, formerly of Bellevue, Wash.’s world-beating Chuckanut. The best so far have showcased Davey’s skill with malty helles and Vienna lagers, but the Flower in the Kettle hazy IPA is the ultimate sunny-day beer.

PRODUCE ROW CAFE

204 SE Oak St., 503-232-8355, producerowcafe.com.

This isn’t so much a bar with a great patio as a barstaurant with the added quirk of being half inside and half outside. Wherever you are, you’re sitting at comfortable wooden tables in a laid-back space that feels at once secluded and wide open. During happy hour (4 to 7 pm and 10 pm to close every night), get an Old Crow bourbon and Rainier tallboy for $7 to accompany a quarter-pound Row Burger ($7.50).

81 SE Yamhill St., 503-209-8349, cargoinc.com.

RIVER CITY BICYCLES

706 SE Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd., 503-233-5973, rivercitybicycles.com.

More than a formidable bike shop, River City Bicycles is pushing the evolution of bicycles. Owner Dave Guettler fosters a creative environment that led to the development of a fully wooden fender, and a reacharound fender bracket for road bikes without fender clearance. His employees are quick to assist, and thanks to the shop’s profitsharing model, most have worked there a very long time.

GUARDIAN GAMES

345 SE Taylor St., 503-238-4000, ggportland.com.

A megacenter for the game-inclined, Guardian stocks everything from packs of trading cards to the latest Lego collections to FunCo Pop! Toys to kits to rebuild miniature Star Wars vessels. There’s even a Pikachu-emblazoned apron, though I’m still not sure whom it’s for. If you’re 21, enjoy a beer in the rear gaming lounge.

WATER AVENUE COFFEE

1028 SE Water Ave., No. 145, 503-808-7084, wateravenuecoffee.com.

Water Avenue Coffee makes you wonder why there isn’t a good local roaster along the westside’s waterfront. On the eastside, you can step into this sweet third-wave cafe for a quick coffee break at the standing counter, catch up with a friend at one of the intimate tables along the wall, or snag a spot on the patio for people-watching at one of the Industrial Eastside’s more interesting intersections.

YOU, PORTLAND 44 years and counting! WATER AVENUE COFFEE | Rosie Struve

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WILL AMETTE WEEK

W.C. WINKS HARDWARE

200 SE Stark St., 503-227-5536, winkshardware.com. Closed Saturday and Sunday.

While we may think of shopping online to obtain greater variety, this home improvement institution boasts an inventory of over 50,000 items in stock and a network of more than 7,000 suppliers. Yes, you’ll have to physically visit the charming space, and you won’t be able to indulge in the comforts of one-click free-shipping Prime life. But you will know that the item you’re getting is what you need for the job, and it’ll be the real deal. W.C. Winks has been at it for just under a century—you came to the right place.

GO PORTLAND NIGHT MARKET 100 SE Alder St., pdxnm.com.

Every few months, from 4 to 11 pm on Friday and Saturday, the Night Market takes over Produce Row for a glorious weekend. Nearly 200 local artisans, food carts and clothiers assemble inside a roomy warehouse to form a craft fair, farmers market, and very fun bar all in one place. It’s free, and because it’s free, it’s packed. Get in line before 8 pm if you want to have more than elbow room when shopping.

IPRC | Darius Kuzmickas/AIGA

INDEPENDENT PUBLISHING RESOURCE CENTER

318 SE Main St., No. 155, 503-827-0249, iprc.org.

The IPRC is a nonprofit dedicated to providing access to tools and resources for creating independently published media and artwork. Join a workshop to learn how to screen-print or use a Risograph, or even become a member so you can have a place to work on your very own dream zine.

STEPHANIE CHEFAS PROJECTS 305 SE 3rd Ave., Suite 202, 503-719-6945, stephaniechefas.com.

This is a gem of a gallery in the Water District’s creative community. Featuring a diverse blend of contemporary artists from around the world, like the feminine figures of Laura Berger, Chefas’ monthly exhibitions place an emphasis on encouraging risk and evolution. If you’re stopping by between 1 and 6 pm Thursday through Saturday, buzz the gallery from the entrance to get in.

45 EAST

315 SE 3rd Ave., 45eastpdx.com.

This Southeast Industrial spot has gone from queer dance club to metalhead venue and back again since it opened in the late ’70s. Its current iteration shows promise as a permanent installation for rawkus dance parties of all stripes. Booking is generally under the electronic umbrella, but you might find DJ sets from Chromeo or Jazzy Jeff of Fresh Prince fame sandwiched between appearances by A-Trak and Borgore.

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HIS PART OF TOWN IS THE SOURCE of all that Southeast Portland “sprawl” you’ve heard about. That is, as the city’s urban core spreads its southeastern fringe, the city’s bustle is closer to chipping away at Lower Southeast’s chill. Lower Southeast stretches like ivy from the banks of the Willamette, moving gradually eastward all the way to Rocky Butte. On one end, you have Brooklyn, where convivial residents have gone to the same neighborhood church and nearby dive bar for decades. A new, palpable energy pulses—due in large part to the MAX Orange Line now stretching down to Milwaukie. New outposts of local eateries like Coco Donuts and Pok Pok are attracting folks from the walkable hubs in Sellwood farther to the south. There are hundreds of acres of parks in this district, with tree-lined streets and grassy sidewalks in between. Reed College’s leafy campus transitions into the blooms of Crystal Springs Rhododendron Garden and the Eastmoreland Golf Course. So this corner of Portland is not so much off the beaten path as it is the road less mussed.

BY CRYSTAL CONTRERAS Originally from rural Northern California, I left the countryside to move to Lower Southeast in 2010. I instantly fell for the trees, architecture and, of course, the people. When I’m not writing software documentation, you’ll spot me swinging by El Gallo Taqueria after a yoga class or people watching at Heart Coffee. NEIGHBORHOOD NOTES During Prohibition, thirstier Portlanders headed to Brooklyn Pharmacy (the one and the same, 3131 SE Milwaukie Ave.) with a medical alcohol prescription, or made friends with one of the many Italian families in the neighborhood who made wine in their cellars for special occasions. The pastel American Queen Anne Victorian mansion towering above the east end of the Ross Island Bridge was built by German immigrant and lumber titan Johan Poulsen, who promptly sold it as soon as it was completed—which was, historians presume, either due to the Panic of 1893 or because his wife hated how it turned out.

EASTMORELAND GOLF COURSE | Henry Cromett

THE PICKS WHERE TO GRAB A CUP OF JOE, BUY WEED, WALK YOUR POOCH, AND PICK UP GROCERIES.

ARLETA LIBRARY 5513 SE 72nd Ave. 503-774-4470 arletalibrary.com

PAKALOLO 1528 SE Holgate Blvd. 503-369-8955 pakalolopdx.com

OAKS BOTTOM WILDLIFE REFUGE SE Sellwood Blvd. and 7th Ave.

EDELWEISS 3119 SE 12th Ave. 503-238-4411 edelweissdeli.com.

B R O O K LY N / L O W E R P O W E L L “THIS IS IT,” YOU THINK, with the lights of the Aladdin Theater reflected in your eyes, “I’ve reached the city.” From here you can reach anywhere in the City of Roses within minutes. But don’t be hasty to book it across the Ross Island Bridge, because you’d miss one of the last bastions of Portland’s punk scene—as well as a hub of small businesses slinging specialty artisanal goods without the overcurated austerity of the inner westside. The Brooklyn neighborhood is one of the most staunchly normal areas adjacent to the city’s core, and is thus a quiet—but valiant—hero in the fight to preserve the subjective concept that is “Old Portland.”

must

ORIGINAL HOTCAKE HOUSE 1002 SE Powell Blvd., 503-236-7402. Open 24 hours. The year is 2075. The entire planet has been embroiled in World War III since 2019, when a White House intern thought it would be funny to write “Tweet” on the button that controls our nuclear arsenal. New York City was the first to be destroyed by our enemies. Then Los Angeles and Seattle. Everyone said Portland was next. But we weren’t. The city rallied around our universal symbol of comfort and hope, the Original Hotcake House. We built shelters in her shadow. We fortified. We trained, and in the end, we shielded her bacon-crowded griddles from destruction. May she and her perfect pancakes stand as a symbol of hope for future generations to come. $.

Emily Joan Greene

EAT

DRINK

POK POK WING

TEUTONIC WINE

BROOKLYN PARK PUB

Wine is more than just former grapes, it’s an experience. Teutonic Wine gets that. Enjoy a tasting flight or some oysters on the half shell in this wine tavern-cum-bottle shop. I fell for the refreshing Jazz Odyssey, a perfect summer wine.

A dim corner spot with a lengthy whisk(e)y list, a good handful of loyal regulars and a large covered patio overlooking Brooklyn Park. Keep it simple when you order, unless you’re one of the beloved regulars. Get a beer and a whiskey before finding a spot on the patio. Pups invited.

3120 SE Milwaukie Ave., pokpokwing.com. Breakfastdinner daily.

The fourth restaurant in Andy Ricker ’s sprawling local Thai food empire offers a faster, more breathless counter-service experience. You can’t go wrong with the Vietnamese fish sauce wings, but take a look at the steam buns before you decide, especially the sweet pork. No cash accepted. $.

SANBORN’S

3200 SE Milwaukie Ave., 503-963-8000, sanbornsbreakfast.com. Breakfast and lunch Wednesday-Sunday.

No matter what you order at this cheery breakfast spot, be sure to follow it up with a piping hot German pancake. Well worth the 20-minute wait, Sanborn’s are a feast for the eyes and the table as well. Try the cinnamon pear version for a crispy, caramelized delight. $.

FINDER 2018

3303 SE 20th Ave., 503-235-5053, teutonicwines.com.

3400 SE Milwaukie Ave., 503-234-7772.

TWILIGHT CAFE & BAR

SHOP

1420 SE Powell Blvd., 503-232-3576, twilightcafeandbar.com.

One of Portland’s few bars hosting a constant grind of metal and punk bands is staying strong in the rapidly changing neighborhood of Lower Powell. With cheap bar eats, $10-and-under covers, and an affordable starter space for bands to practice and record next door, the Twilight is one of those gems actually keeping Portland weird.

ARTIST AND CRAFTSMAN SUPPLY 3393 SE 21st Ave., 503-236-0099, artistcraftsman.com.

The Portland branch of Artist and Craftsman Supply was the second location opened by founder Larry Alderstein. With aisles of stretcher bars, origami paper, brushes and every kind of paint you can imagine, this now-employee-owned store is a one-stop shop for the ultimate crafternoon. LOWER SOUTHEAST

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Thomas Teal

Portland band Ages and Ages performing at the Aladdin Theater

BROOKLYN MALL

3384 SE Milwaukie Ave., 503-233-2550, brooklynmall. org. Closed Monday.

Get lost for hours as you zigzag your way through the maze of glassware, artwork, lighting, clothing and more—all on consignment. Furniture is Brooklyn Mall’s heart, and with a beautiful and cultivated selection covering a range of styles and time periods, you’re sure to find a piece to tie a room together.

SCOTTISH COUNTRY SHOP 3568 SE Powell Blvd., 503-238-2528, scottishcountryshop.com. Closed Sunday.

Represent your clan in style with a wide variety of tartans, kilts and apparel bearing your crest or family coat of arms. Browse the selection of black and golden teas, pick up some Curly Wurlys or a tin of shortbread cookies and transport yourself to the Highlands.

ELEMENTAL ARTS

1133 SE Pershing St., 503-238-3862, elementalarts.us. Saturday and Sunday by appointment only.

Isn’t it about time you had that heirloom art deco ring restored? What about replacing that watch battery? Check a chore off the to-do list and bring everything that glitters to EA for repair. Or shop for custom jewelry and hand-blown glass.

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GO POWELL PARK

Southeast 26th Avenue and Powell Boulevard.

Acquired by the city in 1921 and perhaps one of its more underrated parks, Powell City Park is a sweeping blanket of green lawns, footpaths and sports venues. The volleyball courts, soccer fields and baseball diamonds are a nice touch if you’re considering a new spot for the next family barbecue.

ALADDIN THEATER

3017 SE Milwaukie Ave., 503-234-9694, aladdintheater.com.

There isn’t a bad seat in the house at the Aladdin Theatre. It first opened as a vaudeville house in the late ’20s and since then has played a number of roles, including a short stint as an adult movie theater. Today, the Aladdin screens films and hosts comedians like Dave Chappelle and international music groups like Hapa.

NW CANNABIS CLUB

1195 SE Powell Blvd., 503-206-4594, nwcannabismarket.com.

Throughout all the legislative crackdowns and red tape, this cannabis consumption club continues to be the most reliable place to dab with strangers. Bring your own cannabis products, but feel free to use one of the vaporizers, volcanoes and e-nail dab rigs on hand. It’s members-only, but get the “Lifetime Crow Card Membership” ($20) and visit for a daily entry fee of $5. WILL AMETTE WEEK

REED/WOODSTOCK IF YOU GO DOWN TO THE INTERSECTION of Southeast 46th Avenue and Woodstock Boulevard on a Friday evening, the air is electrically pleasant. Newcomers chat up the employees in the grocery store, amazed at their fortune of having landed in this charmed neighborhood. Children shriek with glee from atop the year-round water slide at the Mt. Scott Community Center. Giggling couples extend their walks home from happy hour to enjoy the light coming through the trees. Nobody is in a hurry, and once you’re here, you will want to take your time, too.

EAT DELTA CAFE

4607 SE Woodstock Blvd., 503-771-3101, deltacafepdx.com. Breakfast and lunch daily.

Southern hospitality abounds at Portland’s little slice of the Big Easy, along with generous portions, vegetarian po’boys, mac ’n’ cheese and barbecue ribs—just to name a few. Get all the spice and crunch of New Orleans, minus the humidity, along with some seriously stiff drinks inspired by the bayou. $.

BIRD + BEAR

2801 SE Holgate Blvd., 503-954-2801, birdandbearpdx.com. Late lunch and dinner Wednesday-Thursday, brunch-dinner Friday-Sunday.

Mashed potatoes get a makeover as crispy balls slathered in marinara or Parmesan sauce and topped with chives—I think that’s the “bird.” If you asked me what the “bear” is in this equation, I’d have to guess it’s the flat iron steak drenched in herb butter. $$.

Rosie Struve

EL GALLO

4422 SE Woodstock Blvd., 503-481-7537, elgallopdx. com. Lunch and dinner Tuesday-Saturday.

Tacos, burritos and brews come out at an unprecedented pace in this tiny, alleylike space. Don’t be shy— there’s a good chance you’ll hear fellow patrons order by the dozens. If you aren’t in a rush, take on the Nevada tostada: meat, beans, cabbage, salsa, citrus crema and pickled onions on top of fry bread. $.

FISH & CHIPS WINDOW

must

MT. SCOTT COMMUNITY CENTER 5530 SE 72nd Ave., 503-823-3183. Nestled among the ridiculously tall trees of Mt. Scott Park, this indoor wonderland has a calendar chock full of yoga classes, adult and youth aerobics, high-impact interval training groups and open skate sessions in the roller rink. However, what makes Mt. Scott Community Center truly unique is the indoor pool with the ceiling-high yellow water slide. Day passes and drop-in rates available.

4404 SE Woodstock Blvd., 503-477-6988, portlandfishmarket.com. Brunch-dinner daily.

Nobody knows why some of the most delicious food always comes from small nondescript windows, but it’s best not to question these things. Especially when it comes to crispy, golden-fried cod, halibut, salmon, lingcod or shrimp served atop a bed of piping-hot french fries. $.

TACO EXPRESS

2618 SE Steele St., 503-583-6724.

Tucked around the corner from Gigantic Brewing in the parking lot of an appliance resaler, Taco Express is a modest delight. You'll simultaneously want to shout its praises from a mountaintop, while also keeping it your own line-less secret. Street-style tacos are a mere $1.35 and you'll walk away with a very solid reason of "why not" to go to Por Que No. $.

TACO EXPRESS | Rosie Struve

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LUTZ TAVERN | Henry Cromett

PORTLAND FISH MARKET

DRINK

SHOP

DOUBLE MOUNTAIN

HEALTHY PETS NORTHWEST

Now in it’s second year, the Portland location of beloved Mt. Hood Brewing is going strong with crisp, New Haven-style pizzas, sandwiches, burgers and, of course, some frosty brews. This location has plenty of wooden booths and, for sunnier Portland afternoons, prime sidewalk real estate.

Treat your furry friends like the royalty they are. Healthy Pets Northwest has everything for your pet’s dietary needs, and this store is the only location with a self-service dog wash. You provide the dog, they provide the towels, shampoo and blow dryers.

4336 SE Woodstock Blvd., 503-206-5495, doublemountainbrewery.com.

LUTZ TAVERN

4639 SE Woodstock Blvd., 503-774-0353, lutztavern. com.

This is the bar that longtime Portlanders will warn you not to tell too many people about, lest you ruin the vibe. The cherished dive is rumored to be the birthplace of the PBR Renaissance and, after a touchup, is now in its 70th year of serving a wildly diverse clientele.

GIGANTIC BREWING

5224 SE 26th Ave., 503-208-3416, giganticbrewing.com.

In a city full of IPAs, Gigantic Brewing stands out as a big, big brew—perfect for nursing in long, foamy sips on the spacious, dog-friendly outdoor patio. You can also fill up your growler, or add a bottle from the cooler to your tab to take home.

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4435 SE Woodstock Blvd., 503-889-0789, healthypetsnw.com.

OTTO’S SAUSAGE DELICATESSEN 4138 SE Woodstock Blvd., 503-481-7537, ottossausage.com. Closed Monday.

This tiny market is loaded with a massive specialty meat selection, including housemade pastrami and smoked pepperoni sticks, plus a deli counter, chocolates and more. Grab a hot dog or two to go with all the fixin’s at the legendary outdoor grill out front.

RED FOX VINTAGE

4528 SE Woodstock Blvd., 971-302-7065.

Red Fox Vintage is the place to score that rare vintage find at an enviable price. The selection is carefully tailored to bring you high-quality vintage goods in great condition, and whether your chic is boho or retro, you’re sure to find something in this hip hamlet.

4404 SE Woodstock Blvd., 503-477-6988, portlandfishmarket.com.

Really fresh fish in a bright, clean, familyrun market with a knowledgeable staff that makes buying seafood an easy experience. It’s the two families’ close relationship with coastal fishermen that ensures all of the store’s inventory is the freshest.

GO EASTMORELAND GOLF COURSE 2425 SE Bybee Blvd., 503-775-2900, eastmorelandgolfcourse.com.

Established in 1918 and situated across the pond from the Rhododendron Garden, the Eastmoreland Golf Course is one of Portland’s more underappreciated hangouts. In addition to the tranquil views somehow outside, yet still inside, the city, the golf course features a driving range, a well-stocked pro shop, and a bar and grill.

KENILWORTH PARK

Southeast Holgate Boulevard and 34th Avenue.

Kenilworth Park is a lush little square of greenery situated on Holgate between 32nd and 34th avenues and is notable for being inspired by Sir Walter Scott’s 1821 novel, Kenilworth, as are its cubist architecture and decorative brick arches. The park is peaceful and scenic, a perfect representation of the surrounding neighborhood. WILL AMETTE WEEK

COOL KIDS Although Portland is home to more bars and strip clubs than most cities its size, we make plenty of wholesome room for our little ones. Here are our favorite places to have fun with your children– where parks have more than a plastic swing set–and where you can enjoy a beer while little ones socialize with fellow tots nearby. JAMISON SQUARE 810 NW 11th Ave. A spectacular series of fountains and wading pools with automated tides and sculptures from Kenny Scharf and Alexander Liberman. Cool off at Cool Moon ice cream shop just across the street. CHILDREN’S PLAYGROUND AT WASHINGTON PARK 1715 SW Sherwood Blvd., explorewashingtonpark.org. The city’s biggest playground features a brightly colored, well-maintained structure geared for tykes, with an array of slides, climbers, swings, activity panels and a small sand pit.

THE WIGGLE ROOM 1925 NE 4nd Ave., Suite C, 503-8779233, thewiggleroom.com. Closed Tuesdays. This new indoor play place is small: There's a two-tiered play structure with a slide, plus a smaller area just for tots. But it’s got beer.

180 XURROS 2218 NE Broadway, 503-477-9163, 180pdx.com. Where the churros are baked fresh daily from local ingredients and the creamy drinking xocolata is made with Cocanú chocolate. You just found your kid’s new favorite reward for good grades.

KHUNAMOKWST PARK 5200 NE Alberta St., 503-823-7529. A big skatepark, one of the city's longest slides and a fantastic water feature focused less on soaking and more on learning how to dam flowing water to make tiny splash pools.

HOPWORKS URBAN BREWERY 2944 SE Powell Blvd., 503-232-4677, hopworksbeer.com. This family-owned and -operated local chain boasts a stacked kids’ menu with a tap list stacked even higher at each of its locations. This one has free brewery tours on Saturdays, though.

KNOW THY FOOD 3434 SE Milwaukie Ave., 503-2065766, knowthyfood.coop. A cozy little co-op grocer with a cafe counter. Every weekday, you can bring kids to participate in sing-along music time or story time while you enjoy a cappuccino made with farm-fresh milk.

BURNSIDE BREWING 701 E Burnside St., 503-946-8151, burnsidebrewco.com. There’s a perennial stout drinkable in the dead of summer and a refreshing rotation of sours, as well as show-stopping pub fare. So, you might as well just have the sitter pick the kids up here. They’re welcome until 10 pm daily.

Illustration by Olivia Lynch

SAVE THE GIANTS PARK

3656 SE Martins St., save-the-giants.org.

Portlanders love trees, and they showed it in 2015, when the three giant sequoias— doomed for destruction on a plot of valuable, Reed neighborhood real estate—were saved and the lot protected as a tiny park.

CRYSTAL SPRINGS RHODODENDRON GARDEN 5801 SE 28th Ave., 503-771-8386.

This open botanical garden brims with 7 acres of rhododendrons and azaleas. Visit sometime in April through June, when the blooms are in full swing for an explosion of color. It’s also available for private parties and weddings. CRYSTAL FINDERSPRINGS 2018 RHODODENDRON GARDEN | Sam Gehrke

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S E L LW O O D / WESTMORELAND THIS AREA IS WHAT FINDER IS MADE FOR. Where an accidental left turn through a door at Wilhelm Funeral Home on Memorial Day reveals a magnificent tomb with bronze coffins and pioneer secrets. Where singular destinations like Antique Row and Oaks Park—an antiquing extravaganza and children’s amusement park—are both somehow frozen in time and fully operational. This area of Portland is older, more established, not developed. Impressive old homes line the winding, leafy roads, which are often complemented by smooth, pedestrian-friendly bike lanes and footpaths. It’s a mix of old and new, as longtime Portlanders leave their slice of heaven to the next generation.

EAT SABURO’S SUSHI HOUSE RESTAURANT

1667 SE Bybee Blvd., 503-236-4237, saburos.com. Dinner nightly.

It’s almost a good thing there’s always a line at Saburo’s Sushi. By the time you’re seated, you’ll have worked up the necessary appetite to take on the jumbo-sized rolls that have been attracting patient customers for 20 years. $$.

must

OAKS AMUSEMENT PARK 7805 SE Oaks Park Way, oakspark.com. Situated on the banks of the Willamette River near east end of the Sellwood Bridge, Oaks Amusement Park is one of the crown jewels of Portland. With a roller rink, over 20 rides, a midway of carnival games, and a miniature golf course, it’s the city’s all-in-one entertainment stop that has been dazzling generations of Portlanders since it opened in 1905. Oaks Park also offers more than 20 group picnic spaces available to rent, with catering and alcohol services to make your event extra special, and skating events year round in the roller rink—one of the biggest in the nation—with skate rentals starting at $2.

FAT ALBERT’S BREAKFAST CAFE

6668 SE Milwaukie Ave., 503-872-9822. Breakfast and lunch daily.

Don’t go to Fat Albert’s when you’re just “hungry.” Go when you’re “hungry hungry,” because this cash-only joint dishes out some serious breakfast fare. I like to get Kim’s Fave, a three-egg omelet packed full of avocado, bacon and cheddar cheese, and splurge on the salsa and sour cream for an extra buck. $.

WEI WEI

7835 SE 13th Ave., 503-946-1732. Brunch-dinner Tuesday-Sunday.

Food speaks at Wei Wei: A Taste of Taiwan, where dishes are served in a bright, minimalist atmosphere that makes the ingredients the center of attention. The salt and pepper chicken with basil is a must, along with the rich, spicy beef noodle soup. $.

PDX SLIDERS

1605 SE Bybee Blvd., 971-717-5271, pdxsliders.com. Lunch and dinner daily.

Whether you’re a staunch believer that a burger should only be made of beef, or you’re a bit more progressive, there’s a morsel for almost every palate at PDX Sliders. All burgers are available as 3-ounce sliders or full-on 6-ounce burgers. Try the Burnside: housemade meatballs, roasted romas and mozzarella on ciabatta. $.

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DRINK OAKS BOTTOM PUBLIC HOUSE

1621 SE Bybee Blvd., 503-232-1728, lompocbrewing.com.

A comfortable neighborhood spot from our good friends at Lompoc Brewing that serves up tried-and-true pub fare with a milelong beer list written on a chalkboard, natch. Munch on some totchos—taters tots topped with cheddar and jack cheeses, tomatoes, pickled jalapeños, olives, red onion, scallions, sour cream and salsa in spacious booths or have a seat on the heated, covered patio.

BIBLE CLUB PDX

6716 SE 16th Ave., 971-279-2198, bibleclubpdx.com.

The spirit of the roaring ’20s is alive and well in this prohibition era-inspired bar. Inside this nondescript house, elegant cocktails are served in antique crystal glassware. Nibble on a plate of provisions while you sway dreamily to the jazz music pouring from the speakers. WILL AMETTE WEEK

KAY’S BAR

BUTTERCRAFT

The perfect neighborhood dive that may or may not be haunted. This is the kind of place where, for over 75 years, patrons have buried their faces in plates of nachos or chicken wings without judgment. Grab a Moscow Mule in a copper mug, aim for one of the outdoor picnic tables, and order poutine (made with hand-cut fries, $7) to keep you busy while people watching.

Good butter makes a difference. White truffle butter can make a whole dinner. This quaint little shop boasts 200 wines, meats, cheeses and a lengthy list of, you guessed it, delicious specialty butters. Find flavors like wasabi, balsamic vinegar and black pepper, and kung pao: a mixture of chili, soy, lime and ginger.

6903 SE Milwaukie Ave., 503-232-4447, kaysbarpdx.com.

LIMELIGHT LOUNGE

SOCK DREAMS

Like every single one of us, the Limelight Lounge and Restaurant has a light and a dark side. One cannot exist without the other. Start in the restaurant for some classic comfort food or weekend brunch before heading into the lounge to finish the day with a drink or two.

Socks have a reputation for being a not-thatexciting present, but that’s because people are gifting lame socks. Sock Dreams has a transformative array of socks, tights and stockings, in every color of the rainbow. These tongue-in-cheek statement socks are probably the only thing that aunts perusing the Powell’s gift section and Gigi Hadid’s Instagram Stories have in common.

6708 SE Milwaukie Ave., 503-235-5797.

GINO’S

8051 SE 13th Ave., 503-233-4613, ginossellwood.com.

A cozy, unpretentious joint serving up classic pasta dishes along with a selection of steaks and seafoods. Stop in for a hearty dinner or spend a quiet afternoon in the century-old oak wood barroom—which was classy enough for Lady Gaga, who was spotted sipping Spanish coffees here during a trip to Portland.

SHOP WALLACE BOOKS

7241 SE Milwaukie Ave., 503-235-7350.

Sam Gehrke

Steven M. Overton, co-owner and curator of the Puppet Museum

6664 SE Milwaukie Ave., 503-683-1836, buttercraftpdx.com.

Old books, new books, good books, used books, Crime books, rhyme books, once-upon-atime books. Magic books, tragic books, books that nobody’s read, Books with surprise endings, like the guy is already dead. Cookbooks, spooky books, and books with mysteries. They’re all in this one house on Southeast Milwaukie.

CLOUD CAP GAMES

1226 SE Lexington St., 503-505-9344, cloudcapgames.com.

Nerds are cool and fun at Cloud Cap Games. In addition to board games, card games and puzzles, $5 will get you a three-night rental from a wide selection of strategy, cooperative, kids’ and party games. Check out the calendar of weekly game nights and special events.

8005 SE 13th Ave., 503-232-3330, sockdreams.com.

TILDE

7919 SE 13th Ave., 503-234-9600, tildeshop.com.

While there’s no shortage of art and gift shops in Portland, Tilde stands out for its collection of timeless handbags and a truly unique collection of art, jewelry and home décor. Few boutiques of this caliber have as great a selection of under-$10 items.

STARS ANTIQUE MALL

7027 SE Milwaukie Ave., 503-235-5990, starsantique.com.

If you’re an antiquer, this is the place. So be sure you go to Stars Antique Mall with enough time to browse every nook and cranny of the sprawling retail compound, because there’s so much to see. With over 200 individual antique dealers spread out over three stores, it’s very easy to spend a whole day searching for that unique, one-of-a-kind collectible.

GO PORTLAND PUPPET MUSEUM

906 SE Umatilla St., 503-233-7723, puppetmuseum. com. Closed Monday-Wednesday.

Now in its sixth year, the Portland Puppet Museum is a beacon of whimsy and charm. With a collection of puppets from every corner of the world, along with a mini Czech theater, the museum is host to field trips, puppet-making classes and regular shows— which can occur at random any afternoon.

WILHELM FUNERAL HOME 6705 SE 14th Ave., 503-894-7611.

The 2-ton marble statues and gilded coffins hidden within this 6-acre treasure may only be viewed one day out of the year, but it makes for one unforgettable Memorial Day. Head through the bronze doors into the Rae Room, the resting place of a wealthy early Portlander with a penchant for the ornate.

PUPPET MUSEUM | Henry Cromett

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HE SOUTHWEST QUADRANT IS PORTLAND’S QUIETEST. Partly, this is due to geography. The elevation gains and unruly springs and streams that dot the Southwest Hills have slowed rampant development. Most eastsiders are unfamiliar with the westside’s winding arterials. Besides downtown, they avoid the area entirely. Still, Southwest is not without its share of jewels: It is most vibrant near the Willamette and more hushed on the other side of the hills. The region’s reputation as a WASPy enclave (a friend of mine in Multnomah Village once described it as “a bubble within a bubble”) belies a surprising cultural variance. Hillsdale and Lair Hill are home to one of the West Coast’s longest-established Jewish populations. Hyped Asian eateries are drawing downtown residents out to Beaverton. Neighborhoods near the suburban borders are now home to growing Muslim communities. Change here is borne out clearly in the highrises along the river, but also in the sleepy, far-flung ’hoods of Collins View, Markham and Maplewood. Someday soon, Southwest will be divided. The uprising South Waterfront and historic John’s Landing are being split off into a sixth quadrant: South Portland. It won’t be quiet here forever.

BY JORDAN GREEN I was born at Emanuel Hospital a few days after Mount St. Helens blew, and grew up on the east side of Mount Tabor. I’ve lived outside a little, including four years in Arizona and seven months in Bosnia, and have been writing professionally since 2001—since 2012 for Willamette Week . I currently live in Hillsdale with my 8-year-old daughter, Lana. You are most likely to find me throwing forehands at Lunchtime, smelling flower at Farma, perusing the stacks at Powell’s, and at Imago Dei on Sunday mornings.

NEIGHBORHOOD NOTES The LED lights illuminating Tilikum Crossing reflect live data about the river below: Warmer water brings colors like orange and yellow, while cooler temperatures show bluer hues. Beatrice Morrow Cannady— activist, newspaper editor and the first black woman to graduate from Southwest Portland’s Lewis & Clark Law School—helped repeal the state constitution’s racist language in 1922 that forbade “negro, Chinaman or mulatto” from living and working in Oregon.

TILIKUM CROSSING | Emily Bernard Stevens

THE PICKS WHERE TO GRAB A CUP OF JOE, BUY WEED, WALK YOUR POOCH, AND PICK UP GROCERIES.

FIVE POINTS COFFEE ROASTERS 614 SW Dakota St. 503-473-3530 fivepointscoffeeroasters.com

GREEN GODDESS REMEDIES 5435 SW Taylors Ferry Road 503-764-9000 greengoddesspdx.com

GABRIEL PARK SW 45th Ave. and Vermont St.

FOOD FRONT 6344 SW Capitol Hwy. 503-546-6559 foodfront.coop

SOUTH WAT E R F R O N T/ MACADAM IT’S BEEN NEARLY A DECADE since the Great Recession slowed the Zidell family’s legacy plan to rebuild the South Waterfront, and the city’s most audacious district is only now building apace. Geographically pinched between I-5 and the Willamette’s west bank, the South Waterfront features three of Portland’s architectural jewels: Tilikum Crossing, the city’s newest bridge; the elegantly arklike Collaborative Life Sciences Building; and the Aerial Tram, which ferries Oregon Health & Science University employees and sightseers up and down Marquam Hill. Plans are grand, but currently a tad doubtful, for an ambitious mix of riverside restaurants, retail and offices in the Zidell Yards, but when the bustle of medical professionals and construction ebb away in the evenings, a sleepiness settles in. Being along the river at night is my favorite, when the Willamette quietly glitters; the whisper of water and highways merging to a murmur.

EAT PAICHE

4237 SW Corbett Ave., 503-403-6186, paichepdx.com. Breakfast and lunch Friday-Sunday.

Two years ago, Paiche was named WW’s Restaurant of the Year. In response, Jose Luis largely renounced the trappings of chef stardom, scaling back hours and his revered Peruvian ceviches to aim at a more affordable and neighborly clientele. Sometimes Luis shuts down for the day just to surf. When it’s open, though, the food is still phenomenal. $.

SZECHUAN CHEF

5331 SW Macadam Ave., 503-227-3136, szechuanchef. us. Lunch and dinner daily.

The second location of this Bellevue, Wash., powerhouse has been quietly serving up some of the city’s best Chinese food since 2012. The spot specializes in cumin lamb and tongue-numbing dishes with Sichuan peppercorns, and boasts an ornate and spacious dining room in the Water Tower. $-$$.

RIP CITY GRILL

3799 SW Moody Ave., 503-953-9452, ripcitygrill.com. Lunch Monday-Friday.

While Rip City’s brick-and-mortar near Mount Tabor may be the flagship, the cart on Moody is still the original. RCG doles out a variety of hot sandwiches stuffed into a hoagie roll and served in a bevy of saucy styles. The cart’s specialty, though, is carvedto-order slices of savory tri-tip. $. FINDER 2018

Christine Dong

must

PORTLAND AERIAL TRAM 3303 SW Bond Ave., 503-494-8283, gobytram.com. The tram has been ferrying medical professionals and tourists up Marquam Hill for over a decade now, and I still feel a rush of civic honor every time Jean or Walt (the two “cars”) pass over. The tram’s architecture is sublime, from the jaunty angle of the Intermediate Tower to the bubblelike people containers swaying on the steel lines with curved arms. For all its spectacular views, the tram is also a workhorse vital to the operations of Oregon Health & Science University’s expanding campus. Sightseers should not miss the viewing decks and art collection that adorn the hospital walls. You can fly confidently knowing that 12-year maintenance was completed this summer.

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E&R WINE SHOP

6141 SW Macadam Ave., 503-246-6101, erwineshop. com. Closed Sunday. FRANK WINE BAR | Courtesy of Frank Wine Bar

DRINK THE BUFFALO GAP SALOON AND EATERY 6835 SW Macadam Ave., 503-244-7111, thebuffalogap.com.

This watering hole has fronted Macadam since the early ’70s, when it opened one of Portland’s first beer gardens. The Gap’s homemade bar food and cold beer ethos still ring true to John’s Landing’s working-class roots, seven days a week from breakfast till 2:30 am. Its warren of annexes also serves as a hangout for Oregon Public Broadcasting journalists and Channing Frye.

FRANK WINE BAR

3712 SW Bond Ave., 971-266-8691, frankwineﬂower.com.

Keeping the sartorial editorial. Weekly in THe paper and On WWeek.cOm

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A coffee shop, wine bar and international bottle shop in a chic, concrete-floored space with large windows. It’s everything that makes life a bit sweeter all in one, beautiful place.

SHOP SOUTH WATERFRONT FARMERS MARKET 3508 SW Moody Ave., 503-972-3289. 2-7 pm Thursdays, June-October.

On Thursday evenings, June through October, the open expanse of Elizabeth Caruthers Park converts to South Waterfront’s closest approximation of a grocery store. With limited space and evening hours, the vendor selection leans heavily toward quality, and live music often lends a lively vibe. It’s like the best of the Night Market packed into a boutique farm.

If you prefer bubbly over a silky late-night red, E&R is your ultimate resource. Experts are on tap to provide a flurry of knowledge and wine itself. Specializing in a coveted collection of the fizzy stuff, this wine shop offers a hands-on approach to those looking to start or add to a distinguished collection.

GO GORGE PERFORMANCE

7400 SW Macadam Ave., 503-246-6646, gorgeperformance.com. Closed Sunday.

GP opened in 1983, riding the wave of a newfangled sport called windsurfing, and later expanded to serve the burgeoning board sport community. Thirty-five years later, with five departments (Skate, Snow, SUP, Surf and Wind), along with a robust rental service, Gorge Performance is more of an institution. If you’re a Portlander looking to traverse land or water on a board, here’s where you go.

WILLAMETTE PARK 6805 SW Macadam Ave.

Willamette Park stretches along its namesake river in John’s Landing. The park is primarily recreational, offering wide lawns, tennis courts and a boat launch. It also serves as the trailhead for the Portland Waterfront Loop, 12.1 miles of even ground stretching from the Steel to Sellwood bridges, and rarely loses sight of the river.

TILIKUM CROSSING: THE BRIDGE OF THE PEOPLE

Tilikum is the latest in Portland’s pantheon of bridges and the first major American span devoted solely to bikes, light rail and foot traffic. The Tilikum is a cable-stayed labor of love, featuring poems in concrete and lighting that shifts along with changes in the river’s temperature, depth and speed. WILL AMETTE WEEK

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must

HILLSDALE THIS HILLY TOWNSHIP’S MEADOWS once served as a hub for dairies and farms before developing in the mid-’50s around two new public schools and the midcentury shopping centers nearby. Most Portlanders know Hillsdale for the Burlingame Fred Meyer sign off I-5 and the blink of tall, red and white Stonehenge Tower. The neighborhood’s true greatness, however, rests in being the unofficial capital of one of our country’s most well-established Jewish communities. Because of its suburban roots, religious ties and largely residential layout, Hillsdale is family-centric and relatively traditional. Activity is still centered on the Hillsdale Library, Mittleman Jewish Community Center and Wilson High School. Orthodox believers walk to temple on Sabbath. It’s a quieter neighborhood than most, and proud of its institutions. I’m honored to call Hillsdale home.

LUNCHTIME DISC GOLF COURSE 2374 SW Vermont St., pdxchurch.org/discgolf. Oregon disc-golf culture is nationally renowned, and excellent courses dot the state. There are only a few inside city limits, though, and for most Portlanders, Lunchtime is the closest. The course rings Greater Portland Bible Church and serves up 15 varied fairways across meadows and through woods, with serene views of the Southwest Hills. While lunch is not at the course, despite its name, Lunchtime offers just the right amount of landscape to fit in a solid round during that hour of the day.

EAT BURGER STEVENS

6238 SW Capitol Highway, 971-279-7252, burgerstevens.com. Lunch and dinner daily.

Chef Don Salamone’s beloved blue cart serves up simple diner-style burgers with the beef expertly maillardized at the edges. The fries are crisp and sliced like Mickey D’s; the fry sauce and soft serve are housemade. Since its first review in Finder 2016, Burger Stevens has become a cart superstar, with an outpost opened in Pioneer Square late last year and additional new locations rumored. $.

GIGI’S CAFE

6320 SW Capitol Highway, 503-977-2233, gigiscafepdx.com. Breakfast and lunch daily.

This brick-and-mortar version of revered waffle cart Gaufre Gourmet specializes in chewy Liege waffles laced with Pearl sugar. Don’t sleep on the savories, though. There’s a crispy-fried housemade scrapple, a craveworthy shrimp and grits, and the Hillsdale Hullabaloo, a pile of bacon, ham, peppers, onions and potatoes smothered in gravy and topped with cheddar and green onions. Maybe don’t plan a hike afterward. $-$$.

BAKER & SPICE

6330 SW Capitol Highway, 503-244-7573, bakerandspice.com. Dinner Tuesday-Sunday.

Some people call it a coffee shop, some think it’s a restaurant, but Baker & Spice is technically a bakery that satisfies Saturday-morning cravings. That’s why it’s so crammed. Baker & Spice is no chain, and offers luscious pastries, curly croissants and mouthwatering doughnuts daily. This place may seem like a Capitol Highway pit stop, but it’s secretly a lifestyle choice. B & S also operates a fabulous cakery a few doors down in the Hillsdale Shopping Center. $. GIGI'S CAFE | Walker Stockly

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WILL AMETTE WEEK

DRINK HILLSDALE BREWERY AND PUBLIC HOUSE

1505 SW Sunset Blvd., 503-246-3938, mcmenamins. com.

Even the strip mall-iest McMenamins has its own lore and history, but Hillsdale Pub is special. It was opened in 1984 as McMenamins’ third location. A year later, it became hallowed: Oregon’s first brewpub since Prohibition. From those early brews, three classics were forged: Hammerhead, Ruby and Terminator. For such grand origins, Hillsdale Pub is first and foremost a warm neighborhood pub populated by locals.

SHOP FIVE ZERO TREES WEST

5336 SW Beaverton-Hillsdale Highway., 971-5447828; fivezerotrees.com.

The lifetime stoners who came to Five Zero Trees in the medical days for the crystally house-grown buds now drive over to this Hillsdale location for all that and a heavyhanded curation of the state’s best flower. Expect quick, professional service from experienced budtenders. Think you’ve dabbed it all? Find more than 30 quality strains of BHO, rosin and resin for $25 to $80 a gram.

GO MITTLEMAN JEWISH COMMUNITY CENTER 6651 SW Capitol Highway, 503-244-0111, oregonjcc. org.

If you’re looking to meet new people, join a gym, or understand more about Judaism and Oregon’s vibrant Jewish locality, MJCC is more than happy to provide. Affordable membership fees include access to the community center’s extensive athletic facilities, indoor soccer field, heated pool and meeting spaces. Hereditary links to one of the Twelve Tribes are generously unrequired.

HILLSDALE FARMERS MARKET

1405 SW Vermont St., 503-475-6555, hillsdalefarmersmarket.com. 9 am-1 pm Sunday all year.

Come rain or shine, and sporting an active Facebook page that rivals yours in terms of statuses, the Hillsdale Farmers Market is a quilt-work representation of Hillsdale’s brightest colors and patterns every Sunday all year round. Indeed, if you’re looking for a fix of Portland Juice Company juice or Naked Acres lavender soap, this is the gradeschool parking lot in which to hang. This grand gathering of amiable bakers, farmers and ranchers rivals the market at Portland State, offers pretty views and provides a deeper look inside Oregon’s diverse bounty.

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M U LT N O M A H V I L L A G E MULTNOMAH VILLAGE IS THE SOUTHWEST QUADRANT’S CULTURAL EPICENTER, a district often affectionately compared to a coast town set in the Southwest Hills. The main drag is lined with tourist staples: a diner, a sweets shop, a toy store, and an art gallery/ financial consultant/pie shop. Multnomah also contains the forested sprawl of Gabriel Park and the loud commercial blur of Barbur Boulevard. Still, change is afoot. The Village skyline was altered by a large brick new-build across from the Arts Center. O’Connor’s closed. Renner’s caught fire. For the most part, though, Multnomah Village stays stubbornly the same. The shops—an eclectic mix of traditional mainstays and hopeful upstarts—vie for coveted spots in one of Portland’s most historic districts.

EAT NOY VIET LAO

3530 SW Multnomah Blvd., 503-686-9367. Lunch and dinner Tuesday-Saturday.

The menu at Noy Viet Lao features a kaleidoscope of fresh and bright Southeast Asian dishes made to order. The name is an homage to owner Tutu Nelson’s mother, and this bright yellow cart has endeared itself to Southwest locals. The cart is family-run, with Tutu’s husband, Brian, manning the register and each dish served with uncommon cheer and kindness. There’s often a wait, though anticipatory visitors are well-served to peruse the neighboring French Quarter or cross the street to John’s. $.

TASTEBUD

7783 SW Capitol Highway, 503-245-4573, tastebudpdx.com. Dinner nightly.

Tastebud began as a hand-built oven on a farm, later morphed into a bustling farmers market staple, and now also exists as MV’s finest dining experience. The pies are piled with fresh seasonal toppings, and the crust is crisp and toothsome. The bowl of manila clams is ample and rich. The wine list is also excellent, but the house cocktails are Tastebud’s standouts. $$.

SPIELMAN’S BAGELS

7713 SW Capitol Highway, 503-206-6024, spielmansbagels.com. Breakfast and lunch daily.

Ever since Noah’s was replaced with Einstein’s, the Southwest Hills have lacked a bagel shop worthy of the region’s rooted Jewish community. Spielman’s ends the exile. The local chain’s fourth location brings the sourdough-started, milk-and-honey basted, kettle-boiled bagels back to the home they never knew. $.

THE ORIGINAL PANCAKE HOUSE

8601 SW 24th Ave., 246-9007, originalpancakehouse. com, Breakfast and lunch Wednesday-Sunday.

The flagship for Oregon’s most successful restaurant chain is located off a busy stretch of Barbur Boulevard. The dining space is cozy, you can only pay in cash, and there’s nearly always a wait, but the food is still slammin’. OPH is famous for its vast selection of pancakes, but patrons shouldn’t miss the fluffy Dutch babies, savory omelets, and crepes stuffed and piled with whipped cream and fresh Oregon fruit. $.

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JOHN'S MARKETPLACE | Walker Stockly

must

JOHN’S MARKETPLACE 3535 SW Multnomah Blvd., 503-244-2617, johnsmarketplace.com. John’s is a legend. Opened in 1923, the market expanded its beer and wine selection in the ’90s, quickly becoming a rite of passage for beer geeks. These days, there’s a line of taps near the entrance and a grill serves up good, cheap burgers. The modern amenities still can’t compete with the ales, ciders, stouts and meads teetering overhead in narrow rows. Bocks and lagers, saisons and sours line humming Atomic Age coolers in the back. It’s probably the largest collection in Portland—and definitely the most fun to wander through.

WILL AMETTE WEEK

DRINK RENNER’S GRILL

7819 SW Capitol Highway, 503-246-9097.

This MV icon is a callback to the Oregon bars of the midcentury and has a wild history to match. The interior is warm and inviting while clearly playing host to nearly 80 years of hard drinking. Renner’s got a little too warm in March, when a kitchen fire shuttered the bar. There were rumors of a fast reopening, though progress has been slow. Still, hope abounds as this beloved institution’s storied history goes on.

MAPLEWOOD COFFEE & TEA 5206 SW Custer St., 503-688-4626, maplewoodcoffeeandtea.com.

Housed in a rickety, vintage Craftsman, Maplewood Coffee & Tea is a place where one can test-drive tea, house-infused mimosas, or a cup of Stumptown Coffee. Familyfriendly, Maplewood often hosts live music for grown-ups, with a designated children’s play area affectionately labeled “The Nest.”

SHOP

BARBUR WORLD FOODS 9845 SW Barbur Blvd., 503-244-0670, worldfoodsportland.com.

Owners John and Mirna Attar are the minds behind Ya Hala and two World Foods locations. The Barbur spot is a cook’s paradise full of local and international treats: a huge walk-in beer cooler, a delightful deli counter with fresh-baked pita sandwiches, and a well-stocked meat department, including crocodile, rabbit and ground camel.

GO SOUTHWEST TRAILS swtrails.org.

Southwest Portland is infamously anti-pedestrian due to its limited sidewalks and narrow roads. The region almost makes up for this lack of walkability with the Southwest Trails system—a network of seven paths weaving through Southwest and ranging out toward similar hiking hot spots around Fanno Creek, Tryon Creek and Washington Park. The paths wind past forested green space and homegrown gardens alike, offering a spirited stroll through the heart of Southwest. Visit the website for a Google map showing the seven routes crisscrossing the westside.

ANNIE BLOOM’S BOOKS

7834 SW Capitol Highway, 503-246-0053, annieblooms.com.

A neighborhood answer to the Powell’s behemoth, Annie Bloom’s is an independent bookstore that prevails against the rising tide of technology. Staffers are knowledgeable and attentive, offering personal reading lists. This bookworm’s paradise features a healthy selection of authors and poets for curated readings and signings.

THINKER TOYS

7784 SW Capitol Highway, 503-245-3936, thinkertoysoregon.com.

Since 1994, this toy store has drawn customers of all ages with a bevy of brand-name toys from Lego and Brio, as well as playthings that engage certain developmental skills and encourage artistic expression. It’s also great to swing by when your little one needs a new backpack or birthday party favors that won’t head straight to the trash.

SW TRAILS (MARIGOLD TRAIL) | Walker Stockly

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INDEX 2nd Avenue Records........................ 20 3 Tracks Music.................................. 73 5th Avenue Cinema...........................27 10 Barrel...............................................16 15th Avenue Hophouse.................... 52 19th Hole/Top Down........................ 33 21st Century Pizza............................ 24 22 Below............................................. 30 45 East...............................................149 180 Xurros.........................................155 811 Shops..........................................124 1856..................................................... 78 The 1905............................................. 65 Aalto Lounge....................................100 Abbey Bar & Bottle Shop................ 35 Academy Theater.............................. 88 Acadia................................................. 52 Accanto............................................... 99 Adams and Ollman.......................... 23 Adult Soapbox DerbyAfuri...............18 ADX.....................................................105 Afuri....................................................139 AK Studio........................................... 67 Akadi................................................... 55 Aladdin Theater................................152 Alameda Brewing.............................. 90 Alberta Park....................................... 82 Alberta Rose Theatre....................... 79 Alberta Street Co-op....................... 76 Alberta Street Market.......................77 Alberta Street Pub........................... 78 Albina Press....................................... 98 The Alibi.............................................. 67 All American Magic PDX.................108 Alma Chocolatier.............................142 An Xuyen Bakery.............................. 113 Andy and Bax Outdoor Store........143 Angel Face..........................................117 Annares Infoshop............................. 73 Annie Bloom’s Books......................165 Annie’s................................................. 92 Antiques Alley....................................91 Apex.................................................... 137 Apizza Scholls.................................. 127 Arc’teryx............................................. 36 Ariadne Garden................................. 53 Arleta Library....................................150 Artifact: Creative Recycle..............132 Artigiano............................................ 131 Artist and Craftsman Supply........ 151 Artists Repertory Theatre............... 33 Ataula.................................................. 42 Audubon Society Nature Store..... 43 Augen Gallery..................................... 13 Autentica............................................ 62 Ava Gene’s.........................................130 Avalon Theatre & Wunderland...... 101 Aviv.....................................................136 Aztec mural......................................144 Babylon Vintage................................ 65 Backyard Social................................ 62 Baerlic Brewing................................ 137 Bagdad Theater....................... 126, 129 Bailey’s Taproom................................19 Bait...................................................... 20 Baker & Spice...................................162 Bang Bang.......................................... 89 Bar Casa Vale....................................140 Barbur World Foods........................165 Bark City BBQ.....................................61 Bazi Bierbrasserie/Thirsty Monk.......128 Beam and Anchor............................. 67 Bearly Read Books.......................... 110 Beast.............................................62, 83 Beaumont Market..............................91 Beech Street Parlor......................... 55 Beer....................................................103

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The BeerMongers............................. 137 Beeswing............................................ 88 Behind the Museum Cafe............... 24 Bella Flora Studio............................. 53 Bella Organic..................................... 44 Belmont Collective.......................... 96 Belmont Inn......................................100 Belmont Station...............................117 Betsy & Iya.......................................... 43 Beulahland........................................ 119 Bible Club PDX.................................156 The Big Elephant Kitchen............... 59 Bike Farm........................................... 50 Bijou Cafe..........................................145 Billy Ray’s Neighborhood Dive....... 55 Bing Mi................................................. 21 Bird + Bear........................................153 Bit House Saloon.............................142 The Bite on Belmont........................ 99 Black Hat Books................................ 56 Black Water Bar.................................47 Blackbird Pizza.................................136 Bless Your Heart Burger...................18 Blooming Moon Wellness Spa....... 67 Blue Moon Camera........................... 70 Blue Sky............................................... 13 Boedecker Cellars............................ 43 Boo Han Oriental Market...............108 Bossanova Ballroom.........................57 Bottle Rocket....................................136 Bottles..................................................91 Bowery Bagels.....................................11 The Box Social................................... 60 Boyeurism...........................................57 Bread and Honey Cafe..................... 59 Breakside Brewing.............................81 Breken Kitchen.................................. 38 Bridge City Collective...................... 58 Bristlecone......................................... 79 Broadway Books............................... 48 Broder Cafe....................................... 131 Broder Nord....................................... 66 Brooklyn Mall....................................152 Brooklyn Park Pub........................... 151 Brooklyn Pharmacy.........................150 B-Side Tavern...................................123 Budlandia..........................................106 The Buffalo Gap Saloon.................160 Bui’s Natural Tofu............................108 Bull in China...................................... 43 Bull Run Distilling............................. 39 Bullseye Projects...............................16 Bunk Bar............................................ 147 Burger Stevens.................................162 Burnside Brewing............................155 Burnside Skatepark................. 116, 124 Buttercraft......................................... 157 The Bye and Bye............................... 78 Cabezon.............................................. 89 Cake......................................................57 Caldera Public House...................... 98 Cameo Cafe....................................... 92 Camerawork Gallery........................ 36 Can Font.............................................. 15 Canoe & Spruce Apothecary.......... 26 Capitol..................................................47 Cargo..................................................148 Caribbean Spice Market.................. 88 Carnelian Coffee..............................106 Casa Diablo........................................ 42 Cascade Barrel House....................140 Castagna............................................136 Cathedral Coffee............................... 68 Cathedral Park.................................. 69 Cat’s Paw........................................... 131 The Cavern........................................128 Celandine Vintae...............................81

Century..............................................140 Century 16 Eastport Plaza.............. 111 Chandelier.........................................123 Chapel Hill.........................................128 The Cheerful Bullpen........................ 31 Cheese Bar......................................... 97 Cherry Sprout Produce................... 58 Chez Dodo..........................................18 Chicken and Guns...........................136 Children’s Playground at Washington Park............................155 Chin’s Kitchen................................... 89 Chopsticks........................................ 118 Chrome Industries........................... 22 Church...............................................120 Cinema 21........................................... 36 Cinemagic...................................88, 129 Circa 33..............................................100 Citizen................................................. 65 City Liquidators............................... 147 City Market NW................................. 36 Clary Sage Herbarium......................77 Claudia’s Sports Pub & Grill..........128 Clinton Street Bike Boulevard......135 Clinton Street Market.....................132 Clinton Street Record & Stereo...132 Clinton Street Theater.....88, 126, 135 Cloak & Dagger Barber Co.............. 60 Cloud Cap Games............................ 157 Club Kai Kai........................................57 Clyde Common.................................. 21 Clyde’s Prime Rib.............................. 92 Coava..................................................138 Coe Circle.......................................... 118 Coffee Time........................................ 28 CoHo Productions............................ 40 Colonel Summer Park.....................104 Columbia Park & Annex................... 73 Columbia Sportswear...................... 26 Colwood National Golf Club........... 88 ComedySportz Portland.................. 40 Commissary Cafe............................. 30 The Commodore Lounge................ 32 Common Ground Wellness Center.......83 Communion......................................128 Confection Crafts............................. 60 Conquistador Lounge.....................103 Coquine.............................................. 97 Cosmic Monkey Comics...................91 Courtesy Janitorial Services.......... 76 Cracker Box Tavern.......................... 88 Crackerjacks Pub & Eatery............. 43 Creepy’s.................................... 139, 145 Cricket Cafe......................................103 Crossroads Records........................ 114 The Crows.......................................... 25 Crush Bar..........................................103 Cruzroom........................................... 78 Crystal Springs Rhododendron Garden.................155 Cubo de Cuba................................... 127 Curious Comedy Theater................ 82 Da’ Hui................................................ 113 Daddies Board Shop........................ 88 Daddy Mojo’s Cafe............................ 52 Daedalus Books................................ 36 Dame................................................... 83 Danwei Canting................................140 Dashen Latin Groceries.................. 116 Davenport.......................................... 119 Dayton Maryland.............................. 67 DC Vegetarian.................................... 97 Deadstock Coffee.............................. 12 Delta Cafe.........................................153 Demimonde Studio & Shop............ 49 Democratic Socialists of America.......................................114

Devil’s Dill.......................................... 137 Devout Rcrds....................................104 Disjecta............................................... 75 Dockside Saloon & Restaurant...... 43 Doe Donuts....................................... 110 Dolicious..............................................77 Don Pedro’s Produce....................... 84 Donut Queen..................................... 98 Dots Cafe..........................................132 Double Mountain.............................153 Doug Fir Lounge..............................124 Dove Vivi............................................ 119 Dr. Tongue’s I Had That Shoppe.... 94 Dragonfly Coffee House.................. 43 Driftwood Room............................... 32 Dub’s St. Johns................................. 69 Duck House........................................ 24 Du’s Grill............................................. 92 Eagle Eye Tavern.............................. 110 E&R Wine Shop................................160 East Side Deli................................... 127 Eastmoreland Golf Course............154 EaT: An Oyster Bar............................ 59 Eb & Bean.......................................... 131 Edelweiss..........................................150 Ed’s House of Gems......................... 94 Eisenhopwer Bagelhouse................ 66 El Gallo..............................................153 El Nutri Taco............................... 77, 110 Electric Lettuce................................ 49 Elemental Arts.................................152 Elvis Room........................................148 Enat Kitchen...................................... 62 E’Njoni Cafe....................................... 62 Enso UrbanWinery...........................103 Epif..................................................... 119 Escape From New York Pizza......... 34 Escape Games.................................. 44 Everyday Music................................120 Ex Novo............................................... 60 Excalibur Comics............................. 127 Expatriate........................................... 84 Fairley’s Pharmacy........................... 93 Fantasy for Adults Only................... 32 Far Post Soccer Supply................... 32 Farm Spirit........................................102 Farma.................................................138 Farmhouse Kitchen......................... 127 Fat Albert’s Breakfast Cafe...........156 Fernhill Park....................................... 76 F.H. Steinbart Co..............................104 Fire on the Mountain....................... 66 Firehouse........................................... 80 The Firkin Tavern............................. 137 First Thursday.................................... 15 The Fish & Chip Shop...................... 62 Fish & Chips Window......................153 Fish Sauce......................................... 38 The Fishwife...................................... 72 Fisk Gallery........................................ 56 Five Points Coffee Roasters..........158 Five Zero Trees West......................163 The Fixin’ To........................................ 71 Float Shoppe......................................37 Floating World Comics..................... 12 Folly..................................................... 39 Food Fight! Grocery.................96, 104 Food Front........................................158 Foster Sound Records.................... 114 Fourteen30 Contemporary............. 33 Frances May....................................... 23 Frank Wine Bar.................................160 Frank’s Noodle House......................47 Freakybuttrue Pecularium.............. 40 Fried Egg I’m in Love......................128 The Fried Onion............................... 147 Froelick Gallery.................................. 13 Will amette Week

Fruit Salad Club................................ 50 Frying Scotsman................................ 21 FSO..................................................... 143 Fubonn Shopping Center...............106 Fuel..................................................... 145 Funhouse Lounge............................ 137 Fuse Bar...............................................28 Future Shock.................................... 124 Gabriel Park...................................... 158 Gallery 114........................................... 16 Game Knight Lounge....................... 60 Garrison Tap Room............................70 Gartner’s Country Meat Market..... 88 Gastro Mania......................................38 Gem Set Love.....................................36 Gen X.................................................. 107 George’s Corner Tavern....................67 George’s Dancin’ Bare.......................74 Gigantic Brewing.............................. 154 Gigi’s Cafe......................................... 162 Gino’s.................................................. 157 Give and Take Resale........................75 Gold Dust Meridian......................... 128 Gonzalez Taqueria.............................62 Good Neighbor Store.......................110 Goods BMX..........................................56 Goose Hollow Inn..............................32 Gorge Performance.........................160 Grain & Gristle....................................52 Grand Central Bowl.........................144 Grant Magazine................................. 86 Great Notion.......................................78 Green Goddess Remedies............. 158 Green Hop...........................................76 Ground Kontrol.................................. 12 Guardian Games..............................148 Güero...................................................119 Gumba.................................................77 Hale Pele............................................ 48 Hammer + Vine..................................32 Han Oak..............................................119 Harlow................................................ 127 Hashi’s Halal Market.........................63 The Hat Museum............................. 137 Hat Yai................................................. 80 Hawthorne Hideaway..................... 128 Hazel Room....................................... 127 Healthy Pets Northwest................. 154 Heart Coffee....................................... 10 Heir...................................................... 20 Helium Comedy Club......................144 Hello India......................................... 127 Henry Higgins Boiled Bagels..........113 Herbivore...........................................104 Higgins.................................................26 High Low Art Space.......................... 91 High Water Mark......................... 57, 80 Hillockburn Farm..............................118 Hillsdale Brewery and Public House... 163 Hillsdale Farmers Market.............. 163 Hipcooks.............................................. 91 Hippo Hardware and Trading........ 124 Hollywood Farmers Market............ 86 Hollywood Theatre........................... 89 Hollywood Vintage...........................121 Holman’s............................................ 123 Holocene.....................................57, 104 Homegrown Smoker........................ 69 Hopworks Urban Brewery.............. 155 Horse Brass Pub............................... 99 Hostel Cafe.........................................28 House of Vintage............................. 128 Hungry Tiger...................................... 103 I Am That........................................... 129 Ichiza Kitchen & Tea House............. 31 Imelda’s and Louie’s....................... 129 Imperial Bottle Shop & Taproom... 132 Independent Publishing Resource Center..............................149 Index...................................................... 11 Industrial Cafe & Saloon..................42 International Rose Test Garden......33 Irving Park.......................................... 46 Irving Street Kitchen......................... 15 FINDER 2018

Jackpot Records.............................. 128 Jackrabbit Coffee Bar.......................28 Jacqueline..........................................131 Jam on Hawthorne......................... 145 Jamaican Homestyle Cuisine.........62 Jamison Square............................... 155 J&M Cafe........................................... 139 Jayne................................................... 46 Johan.................................................. 20 Johan Poulsen House..................... 150 John’s Marketplace.........................164 Jory.......................................................65 JST Seafood Market......................... 30 Judy on Duty......................................57 Jump Jack Sound Machine.............57 Jump Jump Music............................ 88 Kachinka............................................140 Kachka............................................... 139 Kasbah Moroccan Cafe..................... 11 Kay’s Bar............................................ 157 Keen Footwear................................... 16 Keller Fountain Park.........................27 Kelly’s Olympian................................ 19 Kenilworth Park................................ 154 Ken’s Artisan Bakery.........................34 Ken’s Artisan Pizza.......................... 123 Kenton Park....................................... 68 Keys Lounge....................................... 81 Khun Pic’s Bahn Thai....................... 99 Khunamokwst Park......................... 155 Killer Burger....................................... 90 Killingsworth Dynasty................ 57, 63 Kim Jong Smokehouse.....................34 Kingpins Bowling Alley.................... 111 Kiriko Made......................................... 12 Know Thy Food................................ 155 Kung Pow!...........................................34 KXRU 105.5 FM.................................106 La Cannaisseur.................................. 30 La Moule.............................................131 La Taq................................................... 81 Ladd’s Addition Rose Gardens..... 136 Lan Su Chinese Garden................... 13 Landmark Saloon.............................131 Lark Press.......................................... 60 Last Thursday.....................................79 Laurelhurst Market.......................... 117 Laurelhurst Park...............................118 Laurelhurst Theater..................88, 121 Laurelthirst Public House.............. 120 Laurelwood Brewing Public House......90 Lauretta Jean’s................................. 130 Le Happy............................................ 39 Le Pigeon........................................... 122 Leaky Roof.......................................... 31 Leeward Northwest Surf & Sea.... 120 Leisure Public House........................72 Lents Park.......................................... 111 Les Caves............................................78 Liberty Glass.......................................65 Lighthouse Restaurant & Bar..........43 Lille Boutique................................... 124 Limelight Lounge............................. 157 Linnton Feed & Seed........................43 The Lion’s Eye Tavern......................113 The Liquor Store..............................100 Little Bird............................................ 18 Little Griddle..................................... 90 A Little Nectar...................................110 Little Red’s Bakeshop & Cafe.......... 31 Living Room Theaters...................... 88 Lloyd Center............................... 46, 49 Lloyd Farmers Market..................... 50 Local Lounge......................................55 Locale...........................................28, 65 Lombard House.................................72 The Lompoc Tavern.......................... 39 Lone Fir Cemetery........................... 105 Longfellows Books.......................... 137 Los Gorditas............................... 61, 107 The Lost and Found..........................63 Lounge Lizard................................... 137 The Lovecraft................................... 142 Lovejoy Bakers................................. 145

Lowell...................................................67 Löyly.....................................................56 Luc Lac................................................ 18 Luce.................................................... 122 Lumberyard....................................... 94 Lunchtime Disc Golf Course......... 162 Lutz Tavern....................................... 154 M Bar....................................................35 Maak Lab.............................................22 Machus.............................................. 124 Mad Hanna......................................... 94 Made You Look..................................118 Mae.......................................................87 Magpie................................................ 137 Maloy’s Jewelry Workshop............. 20 Mama San Soul Shack..................... 69 Mantel..................................................75 Maplewood Coffee & Tea............... 165 Marukin......................................123, 140 Mary’s Club......................................... 19 Matt’s BBQ...........................................55 Maxwell................................................ 12 Maurice................................................ 21 McMenamins Crystal Ballroom.......23 McMenamins Kennedy School....... 84 The Meadow.......................................65 Meat Cheese Bread......................... 102 Mediterranean Exploration Company..... 15 Merkato Ethiopian Food Store...... 46 Metalwood Salvage.......................... 88 Mi Mero Mole....................................... 11 Microcosm Publishing..................... 59 Migration Brewing.............................121 Milagro Theatre................................144 Milk Glass Mrkt.................................. 61 Miss Delta’s........................................ 64 Miss Zumstein’s Bakery & Coffee Shop...................... 88 Mississippi Studios and Bar Bar.................................. 57, 65 Mister Sister..................................... 129 Mittleman Jewish Community Center... 163 Mixteca...............................................113 Modern Times..................................140 Montavilla Brew Works...................108 Montavilla Social Club....................106 The Moon and Sixpence.................. 91 Moonshadow.....................................101 Mother Foucault’s Bookshop........ 143 Mothership Music..............................56 Mount Tabor Park.......................96, 97 Mountain Hardware..........................26 Mountain Shop................................... 91 Movie Madness................................. 96 Mt. Scott Community Center........ 153 Music Millennium............................... 11 Muu-Muu’s..........................................35 My Father’s Place....................142, 145 Naked City..........................................101 Nationale........................................... 135 Natural Wonders.............................. 126 Ned Ludd.............................................54 Nepo 42.............................................. 88 The Nerd Out....................................100 The Nest............................................ 103 Never Coffee Lab.............................. 96 New Columbia Bicycle Skills Park.....75 Nicolas.................................................47 Nimblefish......................................... 136 No Bones Beach Club.......................63 No Bonz About It..............................116 No Fun Bar........................................ 137 No Vacancy Lounge........................... 19 Nob Hill Bar & Grill............................35 Nodoguro............................................ 99 Noho’s.................................................131 Nong’s Khao Man Gai........................ 21 Normandale Dog Park..................... 86 North Portland Eagles Lodge..........73 Northeast Community Center........ 91 Nostrana............................................ 102 Noun....................................................101 Now Is the Time, the Time Is Now mural......57 Noy Viet Lao.....................................164

NW Cannabis Club.......................... 152 NW Film Center.................................27 Oaks Amusement Park................... 156 Oaks Bottom Public House........... 156 Oaks Bottom Wildlife Refuge........ 150 Oblation Papers & Press.................. 16 Oblique Coffee..................................116 Occidental Wursthaus..................... 69 Off the Griddle..................................113 Oh Baby...............................................36 Ohana Hawaiian Cafe...................... 92 The Old Portland...............................38 Old Town Music............................... 124 Olo Fragrance...................................104 Olympia Provisions.......................... 147 One Imaginary Girl.............................34 OP Wurst............................................131 Open Tandoor.................................... 59 Oregon Jewish Museum and Center for Holocaust Education........13 The Oregon Public House................ 81 Original Hotcake House...........145, 151 The Original Pancake House.........164 Ota Tofu............................................. 143 Otto’s Sausage Delicatessen......... 154 Oui Presse......................................... 137 Oven & Shaker.................................... 15 Over Easy Bar & Lazy Day Kitchen.......72 Overlook Park.....................................65 Overseas Taste..................................114 Ox..........................................................54 PaaDee and Langbaan.................... 123 Paiche................................................ 159 Pakalolo............................................. 150 Paley’s Place Bistro & Bar................34 Palio......................................................28 Pambiche...........................................119 Park Avenue Fine Wines...................22 Parkside...............................................74 Paxton Gate........................................65 Paymaster Lounge............................ 39 Pearl Bakery...................................... 145 Pencil Test...........................................79 Peninsula Park....................................67 People’s Pig........................................ 59 Pépé le Moko......................................22 Petisco.................................................47 Petite Provence................................. 117 Phil’s Meat Market & Delicatessen......36 Pho An Sandy.................................... 92 Pied Cow Coffeehouse.....................28 Pier Park.............................................. 71 Pinky’s Pizza...................................... 66 Pioneer Courthouse Square........... 20 Pips & Bounce..................................144 Pip’s Original Doughnuts................. 90 Pirate’s Cove...................................... 94 Pistils Nursery....................................65 Pittock Mansion................................ 44 Pizza Jerk............................................97 Pizzeria Otto...................................... 92 Plaza del Sol......................................114 Please Louise.................................... 39 The Pocket Pub..................................52 Podnah’s Pit....................................... 80 Poison’s Rainbow............................. 120 Pok Pok.............................................. 130 Pok Pok Noi.........................................77 Pok Pok Wing.....................................151 Polaris Dance Theatre..................... 40 Poler.....................................................22 Ponderosa Lounge.............................74 The Pope House Bourbon Lounge......35 Portland Aerial Tram....................... 159 Portland Art Museum.......................26 Portland Center Stage at the Armory...... 16 Portland Fish Market...................... 154 Portland Flea & Food......................144 The Portland Game Store................63 Portland Gear.....................................32 Portland International Raceway.....75 Portland Meat Collective................. 91 Portland Mercado.............................113 Portland Night Market....................149

169

Portland Nursery................................98 Portland Outdoor Store................... 18 Portland Playhouse...........................54 Portland Pot Shop.............................68 Portland Puppet Museum...............157 Portland’5 Centers for the Arts...... 27 Po’Shines Cafe de la Soul................ 74 Posies Bakery & Cafe........................ 74 Powell Butte Nature Park................111 Powell Park....................................... 152 Powell’s Books on Hawthorne...... 129 Powell’s City of Books...................... 16 Prince Coffee...................................... 74 Pro Photo Supply...............................39 Produce Row Cafe........................... 148 Project Object.................................. 120 Proleteriat Handcrafted Meat.........94 Prost!....................................................65 Providence Park..................................31 Providore Fine Foods....................... 121 P’s & Q’s Market.................................80 Pupuseria el Buen Gusto................110 Pure Green..........................................86 Purringtons Cat Lounge...................56 Quaintrelle..........................................64 QuarterWorld.................................... 129 Queen of Sheba.................................55 Rachel’s Ginger Beer....................... 128 Rae’s Lakeview Lounge....................43 Ralph Miles Building Material Liquidator.....114 Really Good Stuff..............................137 Rebels and Heroes............................22 ReClaim It!..........................................63 Red E Cafe..........................................58 Red Fox Vintage........................ 84, 154 Red Robe Tea House..........................12 Red Sauce........................................... 87 Reel M Inn......................................... 130 Renata................................................ 139 Renner’s Grill.................................... 165 Rerun....................................................53 Revelry................................................147 Reverend Nat’s Hard Cider..............48 Revival Drum Shop.......................... 124 Revolution Hall................................. 102 Rich’s Cigar Store..............................22 Rimsky-Korsakoffee House........... 103 The RingSide........................................31 Rip City Grill...................................... 159 River City Bicycles........................... 148 A Roadside Attraction..................... 103 Robo Taco.......................................... 139 Roman Russian................................ 107 Rontoms............................................ 123 Rose & Thistle....................................48 Rose City Taqueria............................. 72 Roseland Theater...............................13 Roseway Theater........................88, 94 The Roxy............................................ 145 Rum Club.......................................... 140 Saburo’s Sushi House Rerstaurant.... 156 Saint Cupcake....................................99 Saint Simon Coffee...........................48 Salty’s on the Columbia................... 87 Salvage Works.................................... 75 Sammich........................................... 123

O n t h e c ov e r

Sanborn’s............................................ 151 Sandy Hut......................................... 120 Santería............................................... 18 Sapphire Hotel...................................98 Saraveza..............................................63 Sassy’s............................................... 124 Save the Giants Park...................... 155 Scandals..............................................22 Scottish Country Shop................... 152 Scout Beer and Taproom................137 Scrap PDX............................................32 Screen Door...................................... 145 Seastar/Handsome Pizza................. 81 Second Profession Brewing............94 Secret Forest Books....................... 132 See See Motor Coffee Company...... 121 Sequel Apparel...................................98 Serra.....................................................20 Sesame Donuts..................................24 Sewallcrest Park.............................. 126 Shaking the Tree Theatre............... 144 Shandong............................................90 She Bop...............................................64 Sheridan Fruit Co............................ 138 Shift Drinks..........................................21 Short Round..................................... 128 Shrunken Head Skateboards........ 142 The Side Yard......................................88 Skidmore Bluffs.................................58 Skyline Restaurant............................42 Slappy Cakes......................................99 Slim’s....................................................70 Slow Bar............................................ 142 S.M.A.R.T. Collective.........................114 Smokehouse Tavern........................ 102 Sock Dreams.....................................157 Solabee Flowers & Botanicals........63 Solae’s Lounge...................................79 Solo Club.............................................39 Soma Kombucha.............................. 100 South Waterfront Farmers Market....160 Southeast Grind................................28 Southeast Wine Collective............. 131 Southwest Trails.............................. 165 Spare Room........................................ 87 Spielman’s Bagels............................ 164 Spitz..................................................... 61 St. Honoré Boulangerie....................42 St. Jack................................................39 St. Johns Coffee Roasters...............70 St. Johns Farmers Market................71 St. Johns Marketplace & Food Pod..... 73 St. Johns Twin Cinema...............71, 88 Stacked...............................................147 Stammtisch...................................... 120 Stand Up Comedy.............................20 The Standard.................................... 124 Star Bar.............................................. 140 Stark Street Station..........................98 Stars Antique Mall............................157 Steel Door Gallery.............................44 Stephanie Chefas Projects............ 149 Stepping Stone Cafe.................42, 145 StormBreaker Brewing..................... 67 Stretch the Noodle........................... 18 The Sudra...........................................119

Sugar Mountain Vintage...................56 Sushi Ichiban....................................... 11 Sweedeedee.......................................65 Sweet Hereafter............................... 100 Sweetpea Baking Co....................... 102 Swift and Union................................. 74 Swift Lounge...................................... 47 The Swifts at Chapman Elementary School............................44 Szechuan Chef................................. 159 Tabor Bread........................................ 97 Tabor Tavern....................................... 97 Taborspace..........................................98 Taco Express.................................... 153 Talarico’s Produce........................... 126 Tanner Goods.....................................65 The Tannery........................................98 The Tao of Tea.................................. 100 Taqueria Nueve................................ 139 The TARDIS Room..............................63 Tastebud............................................ 164 Tasty n Sons.......................................59 Teote.................................................. 136 Tetra Cannabis..................................116 Teutonic Wine.................................... 151 Theatre Vertigo..................................137 Thelonious Wines.............................. 16 Things From Another World............48 Thinker Toys...................................... 165 Thrive...................................................90 Thunderbird....................................... 113 Tienda Santa Cruz.....................69, 107 Tik Tok................................................ 108 Tilde.....................................................157 Tilikum Crossing.............................. 160 Tilt.........................................................66 Time Vault Games.............................26 Tiny Moreso........................................ 87 Title Wave Used Bookstore.............56 Tom McCall Waterfront Park........... 10 Tom’s Bar........................................... 132 Top to Bottom...................................114 Toro Bravo...........................................54 Tortilleria y Tienda Leon................. 107 Tough Luck.......................................... 81 Tōv Coffee......................................... 126 Trade Up Music..................................79 Trifecta Tavern................................. 139 Triumph Coffee................................ 103 Tryst..................................................... 19 Tube.......................................................12 Turn! Turn! Turn!................................63 Tusk.................................................... 123 Twentysix Cafe...................................46 Twilight Cafe & Bar........................... 151 Twilight Room.................................... 72 Twill.....................................................101 Twin Pines Country Club............... 108 Two Stroke Coffee Co.......................70 Umami Cafe at Portland Japanese Garden..............33 Una..................................................... 143 Union Way...........................................23 Unspoken.............................................12 Untapped............................................. 67 Upcycles.............................................. 81

Upright Brewing.................................48 Uptown Billiards................................ 37 Uptown Stamp Show....................... 37 Urban Fauna.......................................26 USS Blueback................................... 138 The Variety Shop..............................114 Vendetta..............................................60 Vera Katz Eastbank Esplanade..... 138 Verde Cocina......................................65 Versailles Gardens & Pomarius Nursery..............................39 Victory Bar......................................... 131 Villevelo Bake Shop..........................78 Vintage Cocktail Lounge................ 108 Vinyl Resting Place............................70 Virtue Supply Company................... 10 Vitalidad Movement Arts Center...... 91 Vivienne Kitchen & Pantry...............86 Voicebox............................................ 144 Von Ebert............................................ 16 Voodoo Doughnut........................... 145 The Waiting Room.............................34 Wallace Books...................................157 Wasabi Paddling Club....................... 91 Water Avenue Coffee...................... 148 Wayfinder.......................................... 148 W.C. Winks Hardware...................... 149 Wei Wei.............................................. 156 West End Bikes..................................23 West End Select Shop.....................23 Western Meat Market.......................68 Whiskey Soda Lounge.................... 132 White Eagle Saloon........................... 67 White Owl Social Club..............57, 140 Widmer Brothers Brewery Pub....... 67 The Wiggle Room............................. 155 Wigland................................................48 Wildgang............................................ 143 Wilhelm Funeral Home....................157 Will Leather Goods............................36 Willamette Park............................... 160 Wiz Bang Bar...................................... 18 WM Goods...........................................23 Wolf & Bear’s.................................... 122 Wonder Ballroom...............................56 Woodlawn Coffee..............................76 Woodlawn Farmers Market.............82 World Cup Coffee & Tea...................28 World Famous Kenton Club..... 68, 74 World Foods....................................... 10 The Yo! Store......................................36 XLB........................................................59 Xocotl.................................................. 113 Xtabay................................................ 132 Yakuza Lounge...................................83 Yeates Academy of Irish Dance...... 91 Yen Ha..................................................94 Yoga Union..........................................98 Yuan Su...............................................110 Yur’s Bar & Grill..................................39 Zero Degrees.................................... 108 Zero Wave...........................................63 Zig Zag Wanderer..............................79 Zilla Sake............................................. 77 The Zipper.......................................... 121 Zoiglhaus Brewing Company..........110

W h o a re t h ey ?

( l e ft)

(c e nt e r)

(r i g ht)

Sean Mager has been a regular in the country music scene since moving to Portland from Florida in 2015. You’ll see him working at Farma by day and on stage at the Laurelthirst Public House after hours.

Yaana Hassan has lived in Portland for almost nine years, now working in Nike’s finance department and living in St. Johns. Out of the office, she’s a 21st Avenue institution—either getting coffee at Sterling Roasters or making her regular appearance at M Bar.

Janessa Narciso, a Portlander since ‘95, is an aspiring writer raising her eight-year-old ninja-warrior. When she isn’t dedicating time to community work through music, art, and youth programming, she’s dancing the house down at the Day Fade.

170

Will amette Week

10.14.2018

BEER + CIDER PRO/AM

Home and pro brewers team up to make beer and cider only available at this event.

11.2.2018

GIVE!GUIDE KICKOFF PARTY

11.4.2018

RAMEN + WHISKY FESTIVAL

This magazine and event acts as a call to action. Support and celebrate Portland’s nonprofits featured here.

Taste the best local ramen and Japanese whisky Portland has to offer.

11.28.2018

FUNNIEST 5 SHOWCASE

02.28.2018

OREGON BEER AWARDS

04.4-5.2018

TECHFEST NORTHWEST

05.11.2018

Comedy insiders choose five up-and-coming comedians that we profile at this show.

A celebration that recognizes our state’s outstanding beers in 24 categories and eight additional awards at this “Academy Awards for Oregon beer.”

Gathering of innovators, startups, entrepreneurs, and tech insiders from around the globe.

CULTIVATION CLASSIC

The most scientifically rigourous cannabis competition on the planet for pesticide-free product.

EXPERIENCE PORTLAND BY BIKE

P , O E R K I T B LAND! Y B O G Our favorite rides throughout the city presented by River City Bicycles

LEIF ERIKSON DRIVE 11.2 miles

EASTSIDE LOOP ~55 miles

This out-and-back gravel road is an ideal way to see Forest Park. A great route for a quick escape from the city into the woods without venturing too far from home.

C o lu

m b ia

R iv e

For a full day ride, experience the trail system on the east side of Portland with views of both the Columbia and Willamette Rivers. Challenge yourself on this loop that heads out to Boring, Oregon.

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205 26

WATERFRONT LOOP 11.2 miles

POWELL BUTTE + GATEWAY GREEN

This is the perfect route for experiencing the best of Portland with friends. The paved loop with almost no elevation allows for great photo ops and lots of stops along the way.

For the experienced biker, head to these trails for offroad, singletrac, and jump trails. Powell Butte is centered around an extinct cinder cone volcano and has beautiful views of Mt. Hood. Gateway is Portland’s only mountain bike park.

Recommended Bikes by Trail: Leif Erikson Drive

Eastside Loop

Waterfront Loop

Powell Butte + Gateway Green

SPECIALIZED FUSE

SPECIALIZED DIVERGE COMP CARBON

SCOTT SUB

SPECIALIZED STUMPJUMPER COMP

The stable aluminum frame and wide tires offer great traction and handling across every type of terrain. A seat dropper and 1 x 11 shifting system can tackle any singletrack around town.

This ride offers go-anywhere capabilities with a state-of-theart carbon frame. The hover bar keeps you tracking straight ahead and the Shimano 11 speed drivetrain gives a range of gearing to get you over the tallest peaks.

Made for urban explorers, this bike features a lightweight, aluminum frame with a comfortable riding position—all powered by a belt-driven, internally-geared 8-speed hub. Hydraulic disc brakes and full fenders also prepare you for the fabled Portland rain.

Knobby 27.5” tires offer powerful traction and handling across every type of terrain. Great suspension for staying in full control after taking on big hits and bumpy terrain.

RENT IT: $60 / day BUY IT: $1,500

RENT IT: $90 / day BUY IT: $3,000

RENT IT: $50 / day BUY IT: $750

RENT IT: $90 / day BUY IT: $3,000

A BIKE FOR EVERY RIDE

MAIN STORE 706 SE MARTIN LUTHER KING JR. 503.233.5973

BELMONT STORE 534 SE BELMONT 503.446.2205

WEB STORE STORE.RIVERCITYBICYCLES.COM