WDQ - Wilson Daniels Wine Journal

2008 VOL. ONE

 A I

C S V   G W D L. • P. O. B -B •  D L • S. H, CA  • T .. • F .. -: @. • ..

30th Anniversary Issue: Celebrating Sustainable Vineyards T  C

WDQ L. E 

Sustainability in Action by Paul Dolan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 – 2 Water Reclamation at Gundlach Bundschu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Gundlach Bundschu Celebrates 150 Years . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Domaine Philippe & Vincent Jaboulet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 – 5 École du Vin et des Terroirs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Biodynamic Viticulture at Domaine Leflaive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Pierre Morey and Morey-Blanc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 – 9 Biodynamics: Behind the Mystery at Felton Road by Nigel Greening . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 – 11 Leave Only Footprints: Grant Burge Wines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 2003 The Holy Trinity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 Sonoma Coast Vineyards 2004 Pinot Noir . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 Volpaia 2004 Coltassala Chianti Classico Riserva . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 Marc Kreydenweiss: Leading the Biodynamic Way . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 – 15 House of Salon 1997 Vintage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 The Art of Creating Salon and Delamotte Champagnes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Ponzi Vineyards: LIVE Certified/Sustainable/New Winery. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Sustainable Vineyard and Winery Practices . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Introducing the M.L.A. Portfolio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 – 21 Mount Nelson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 WillaKenzie, Where Physics and Passion Merge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Michael Brajkovich of Kumeu River Talks about Chardonnay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Kumeu River Estate Chardonnay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 Environmental Practices at Schramsberg Vineyards . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 WDL Visits Angelini’s Three Estates in Tuscany . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Organic Wine from Sauvignon Republic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Presenting Haute Négoce Tardieu-Laurent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 What is the Extreme Sonoma Coast? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Silverado Vineyards Vineburg Chardonnay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Stags Leap Pioneer Continues to Innovate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Silverado Vineyards 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Castello di Volpaia: Certified Organically Grown by Nicoló Mascheroni Stianti . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 – 33 Bordeaux Meets Burgundy at Gainey Vineyard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Preserving the Land by Dan Gainey . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Jack L. Davies Ag Fund . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Clos Pegase Renames Prime Vineyards by Shaun Richardson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 Burgess Cellars Stays the Steady Course . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Girard 2005 Artistry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 Girard Winery Opens New Tasting Room in Yountville, CA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 Introducing: Windsor Sonoma . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Top Napa Valley Cabernets: 2005 Vintage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 J. Davies 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 Uniquely Tokaji: Nothing but the Facts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Vineyard Manager, Nicolas Jacob . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 Domaine Faiveley: A Dynamic Estate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 – 45 Celebrating 30 Years: Wilson Daniels Ltd. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 News from Wilson Daniels Ltd. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Wilson Daniels Ltd. Portfolio Listing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 – 49 Letter from the President . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50

Sustainability in Action Creating a new era of “Integrity Wines”

By Paul Dolan Partner, Mendocino Wine Company; Founding Partner, Sauvignon Republic Author, “True to Our Roots ~ Fermenting a Business Revolution” (Bloomberg Press 2003)

In September 1987, I experienced an “Ah ha!” moment in my life. I was walking through a vineyard of Sauvignon Blanc in Mendocino County. As a winemaker, I was tasting grapes to check for ripeness to determine the best date for harvest.

Sauvignon Blanc is usually crisp, refreshing and bright, and I was excited to find this fruit to be expressive, interesting and balanced. As I moved into the next rows, just 15 feet away, the fruit changed; it was bland, less expressive and disappointing.

The first rows had been farmed organically, the second using chemical fertilizers and pesticides.

I didn’t know it then, but my entire way of thinking was about to change. I began to recognize two things: First, that I could make much better wines using organic

practices; and second, that my business was not isolated from its surroundings; it was part of a much larger eco-system. From that day on, I approached grape growing with a new perspective. My understanding of soil nutrients, balanced vineyards and terroir shifted to better realize that this place and these vines are a whole biological system, an organism. The health of the whole organism is the best indicator of quality.

We can prosper without being wasteful. We can grow without mortgaging the future, and we can share our discoveries without giving up leadership.

I started to see the possibility of using what is now described in the wine community as “sustainable winegrowing practices.”

I would describe sustainability as the following: A successful winegrower is one who provides steady financial returns while improving the quality of life of his workers, community and environment; his or her strategic perspective reaches out beyond the next four quarters, beyond the next five years, to consider what’s ahead for the next generation. We can prosper without being wasteful. We can grow without mortgaging the future, and we can share our discoveries without giving up leadership.

In this age of global warming, we all need to be vigilant in conserving energy and reducing our carbon footprint. There is no other industry like ours that so relies on the importance of climate and its impact on the expression of our terroir, our site. To this end, we can all start to work towards becoming “carbon-neutral” in all of our farming and winemaking practices. We can invest in solar power, purchase wind power and use bio-diesel in our vineyard equipment.

There is a great opportunity for us to shift to more environmentally sound packaging materials, from treeless paper for our labels, kraft cardboard for our cases, soy ink instead of foil and finally, lighter glass bottles.

Water conservation is likely to be the most pressing issue for us in the next few decades.

Fresh, clean and available water will be at the top of the list for us in the wine business and the communities we support. We have the opportunity to reduce our use through conservation, dry farming, drip irrigation and water reclamation.

Over the years, the California wine industry has had its own “Ah ha!” moments. We have seen the positive environmental impact of sustainable winegrowing and the exceptional quality it brings to our grapes.

Gundlach Bundschu’s Rhinefarm Vineyard Block One—old vine Gewürztraminer, planted in 1971—is sustainably farmed by the Bundschu family, whose estate is 150 years old this year.

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“Sustainability in Action” by Paul Dolan, continued California was the first major winemaking region to adopt a “Code of Sustainable Winegrowing,” providing a measuring stick for wineries and growers to assess their sustainability. There has been participation from over half of the wineries in California to date that are engaged in limiting their use of chemicals in vineyards, controlling erosion, recycling and reducing waste, investing in solar power, applying compost in lieu of petro-chemical fertilizers, building energy-efficient buildings, contributing financially to their communities and restoring ecosystems along the way.

There are many examples of sustainable farming throughout the global wine community. France has provided leadership in the area of genetically modified organisms (GMOs), suggesting that we need to be very cognizant of the importance of microbial impact on the expression of our terroir. Leaders like Anne-Claude Leflaive and Aubert de Villaine have helped guide us in this discussion.

We in the wine community greatly value the place where we live and grow grapes.

Our livelihood depends on our ability to fully express—through the quality of our wines—this unique place we have nurtured.

If our environment is compromised in any way, we have lost what we hold dear: the unique expression of taste from our appellation, the place we call home.

In the years since I first experienced the positive power of sustainable practices, I have been on a long journey of discovery.

By demonstrating the viability and value of sustainability, we hope to not only produce the world’s finest wines, we also hope to inspire others to seize this new opportunity, to take responsibility and help contribute to a thriving and sustainable world for all.

Sustainable farming, organic and biodynamic practices are now being used throughout the world. From France to New Zealand, Italy to Oregon, we are experiencing a renaissance in the growing of quality wines. We are recognizing the importance of respecting the terroir by eliminating chemicals and focusing on the health of the vineyard in its total environment. I believe this new paradigm of systems thinking will contribute to a new era of wines: “Integrity Wines.”

Paul Dolan

Photo: Olivier Portet

Further, they have opened our eyes to the holistic approach of Rudolf Steiner’s biodynamic farming. Organic and biodynamic practices truly express the concept of a total systems approach to farming, recognizing that the health of the environment is as important as that of the vine. Every year an impressive number of winegrowers take up the challenges of biodynamic farming, from Felton Road in

New Zealand to Domaine de la RomanéeConti in Burgundy.

Kastelberg Vineyard, Domaine Marc Kreydenweiss, Riesling, biodynamically cultivated since 1989

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Gundlach H2O Reclamation In California, drought is a constant threat, making water a hot issue. Gundlach Bundschu is committed to water conservation and has built a complex system of water reclamation ponds to reuse this precious commodity.

In the winery, all water used in the winemaking process is collected and filtered through screens and sumps to a devoted solids separator, which removes any large solids not caught in the screens.

The solids are composted and eventually returned to the earth. The liquid flows via gravity to process ponds, where it is treated to a bubble bath! Diffusers are used to create small bubbles to increase oxygen flow—a critical step in breaking down any remaining organic solids. The pond is monitored closely for dissolved oxygen and pH levels to ensure the organisms that feed on the solids stay alive and healthy.

From the pond the water is sent—again via gravity—to a sump, then to the winery’s wetlands area, a sanctuary for ducks and the small bird, Killdeer.

There the sunlight, plant life and a layer of pea gravel naturally complete the filtering process before the water flows into another sump and finally into a large storage pond. This clean water is pumped back to the main reservoir and is used to irrigate the vineyard.

Ultimately, 70 percent of the winery’s waste water is recycled (30 percent is lost in evaporation)—a significant antidote to any impending drought!

GUNDLACH BUNDSCHU Winery Celebrates 150-Year Anniversary with Aplomb gatherings with performances of original works, and organizing the first Vintage Festival in 1897, which in its 111th year will feature Jeff as grand marshall.

Jeff’s quest led to collaborating with The Marsh, an award-winning San Francisco theater company, to create “Towle’s Hill,” an original, one-man play commissioned especially for the milestone occasion.

Gundlach Bundschu, California’s oldest family-owned winery, kicked off its 150th anniversary on March 12, the day Jacob Gundlach signed the deed for Rhinefarm.

Winery president Jeff Bundschu, his father, Jim, and aunt Gigi, with a handful of other family members gathered to host local dignitaries and the press in honoring the special date. In addition to formal proclamations and personal tributes from the mayor of Sonoma and local county, state and federal representatives, the ceremony concluded with a proclamation from the State of California and Governor Arnold Schwarzenegger.

Long before the anniversary neared, Jeff Bundschu set out to create something that captured his family’s spirit and long history of supporting the arts, which dates back as far as Charles Bundschu, Jeff’s grandfather’s grandfather, who was an energetic and active civic leader. Charles’ obituary in the San Francisco Chronicle remembered a man who “was a poet of international fame, having written poems of real genius in both the English and German languages.” During his lifetime, Charles’ many activities included founding the Bacchus Club, a social and literary group that commemorated harvests and social

On May 7, “Towle’s Hill” debuted to a standing-room-only audience at The Marsh. Tom Pillsbury of Young’s Market Company praised the winery’s approach to celebrating their anniversary, saying, “You could have taken a lot of this information about the family’s history and their feeling about their land, and made a glossy brochure or a press kit or come to a meeting and tell the story, but it would have been like every other brand sales pitch. This was an evening that we will never forget and really made us feel like we are a part of their legacy. It made you laugh, it made you cry, it made you really understand the many generations of Bundschus and their struggle to hold onto their land and pass their unwavering dedication on to future generations. Fabulous!”

One month later, Jeff Bundschu boarded a bus to tour the country with “Towle’s Hill.” Performances were held in Houston, Austin, Kansas City, Chicago, New York City, Charlotte, New Orleans, and Los Angeles, with a special performance held in Washington, D.C., for members of the United States Congress. The final performance will be held on Sunday, September 28, 2008 as part of Sonoma’s Vintage Festival.

Written and performed by Mark Kenward, directed by David Ford, “Towle’s Hill” chronicles pivotal events in the history of Gundlach Bundschu—an up-close and personal look at six generations of the oldest family in the California wine business and their struggles to survive and thrive.

Told from the perspective of fourthgeneration Rhinefarm steward, Towle Bundschu, “Towle’s Hill” chronicles the history of Gundlach Bundschu, while captivating the audience with a universal story about the dynamics of family businesses, the complexities of fatherson relationships and the desire to create something meaningful from a lifetime of work.

Throughout the play’s tour, Jeff captured his experiences and adventures in a blog.

To read all about his goings-on, check out: www.blogschu.com

TOWLE’S HILL Final performance on Sunday, September 28, 2008 Sonoma Valley Vintage Festival (benefit for Boys and Girls Club “Valley of the Moon”) For information, visit: www.gunbun.com

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History

The Jaboulet family has been respected as vignerons in Crozes-Hermitage for more than 200 years. Pioneers in the Rhône, they discovered the greatness of the appellation and gained attention for it as a top wine-producing region. Then in the early 19th century, Antoine Jaboulet founded Paul Jaboulet Aîné, which became one of the most venerable négociant firms in the Rhône. It was sold to Jean-Jaques Frey, owner of Château La Lagune, in January 2006.

New Era

Today, Philippe and Vincent Jaboulet, fifth- and sixth-generation vignerons respectively, are both starting fresh and carrying on the Jaboulet family winemaking legacy in CrozesHermitage with the establishment of Domaine Philippe & Vincent Jaboulet. Father and son will share all winemaking and vineyard responsibilities.

Vineyards

Domaine Philippe & Vincent Jaboulet has more than 70 acres of vineyards in the northern Rhône located within the regions of Hermitage, Cornas and Crozes-Hermitage.

Its holdings include the Nouvelère vineyard in Crozes-Hermitage, formerly known as Thalabert, which the Jaboulet family has owned for four generations and from which some of the family’s most regarded wines have been made. Philippe retained ownership of the Nouvelère vineyard as well as three key vineyards within Hermitage when his family’s winery, Paul Jaboulet Aîné, was sold in 2006.

Winery

Domaine Philippe & Vincent Jaboulet is located south of the village of Mercurol. The domaine was acquired in December 2005 from long-time friends. Upon purchasing the property, the Jaboulets completed a renovation of the facility to ensure the highest quality of winemaking from the arrival of the grapes to bottling. The domaine is open to the public by appointment.

Wines

Domaine Philippe & Vincent Jaboulet produces seven wines, including Hermitage Rouge, Hermitage Blanc, Cornas, Crozes-Hermitage Nouvelère, Crozes-Hermitage Rouge, Crozes-Hermitage Blanc and Syrah from Vin de Pays de la Drôme. Approximately 3,000 cases will be imported into the United States annually.

2006 Crozes-Hermitage Nouvelère points “Dark and juicy, with lots of currant and fig notes...Bittersweet cocoa and warm raspberry ganache notes fill out the juicy, structured finish. Best 2009 through 2014.”

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2006 Hermitage Blanc points “...shows excellent focus to the peach, mango and papaya notes that are backed by a stony undertow, with crisp yellow apple and enticing floral notes. Long, juicy finish. Drink now through 2018.”

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2006 Hermitage Rouge points “Concentrated and very direct, with a big core of black currant and blackberry fruit rumbling across the palate, while notes of licorice, hoisin sauce, tar and graphite fill in behind. The grippy palate will need cellaring to round into form. Best 2009 through 2018.”

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James Molesworth, July 31, 2008

Lutte Raisonnée The

s

Jaboulet family has largely been credited with establishing the northern Rhône as one of the world’s preeminent winegrowing regions. During his 30-year tenure at Paul Jaboulet Aîné, Philippe Jaboulet instituted numerous vineyard and winemaking practices that helped establish PJA as a formidable force in the world of wine, including erosion prevention, water conservation and double sorting of grapes.

Philippe Jaboulet, in collaboration with his son, Vincent, has developed an impressive collection of vineyards in a short time by retaining key vineyards during the sale of Paul Jaboulet Aîné, as well as purchasing a property from a respected grower with whom he has worked for many years.

After acquiring their domaine, the Jaboulets implemented several viticultural changes in the surrounding vineyards, including judicious pruning before budbreak and removal of additional buds thereafter, growing cover crops every other row and practicing extensive green harvesting each summer.

In all of their vineyards, the Jaboulets practice “lutte raisonnée,” which can be variously translated as “rational protection,” “reasonable prevention” or “reasoned struggle.” Lutter is literally to wrestle or to struggle. Lutte raisonnée means intervention and treatment of pests and diseases in the vineyard only when and where it is clearly necessary to preserve the vines and/or the grapes. This systematic approach allows for the flexibility needed during difficult years, when heavy rains and hail can damage the crop, weather patterns wreak havoc on the harvest and an entire crop can be lost.

At the same time, the vigneron practices organic farming with organic compost, cover crops and natural yeasts—allowing and encouraging nature to achieve a healthy equilibrium on its own, whenever feasible.

Reason prevails.

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École du Vin et des Terroirs “School of Wine and Terroir” Burgundy vignerons, scientists and sensory experts have joined together to form an innovative, non-profit educational organization in Puligny-Montrachet.

Anne-Claude Leflaive, director of Domaine Leflaive, in collaboration with six other highly respected Burgundy vintners, has founded École du Vin et des Terroirs. With the goal of broadening wine professionals’ knowledge and understanding, École du Vin et des Terroirs is an educational program that focuses on vine growing and winemaking using an ecological, environmental and humanistic approach.

The first school of its kind, École du Vin et des Terroirs has been in the works since 2005 when the initial plans were formed.

The origins of its inspiration, however, were much earlier. In 1991, Domaine Leflaive began experimenting with biodynamic farming, which initiated inquiries about its effectiveness and benefits. Rather than

respond to every individual inquiry, École du Vin et des Terroirs provides a forum for biodynamic advocates to share their experiences with a broader audience.

Beginning in May 2008, École du Vin et des Terroirs has offered seminars ranging in duration from three hours to two days focusing on understanding of soils, winemaking techniques, biodynamic viticulture, wine tasting, botany and other topics. Each seminar is led by a specialist in his or her field, including such luminaries as microbiologists of the soil Claude and Lydia Bourguignon, wine-tasting revolutionary Bruno Quenioux, terroir specialist Bruno Weiller and color “linguist” William Berton.

Classes will be held throughout the year in both English and French. The seminars are limited to only 12 people in order to provide a more personal experience and are held predominantly in the vineyard.

As examples: The therapeutic properties of the vine is taught by ethnobotanist AnneLaure Rigouzzo-Weiller; the impact of biodynamics on wines and terroir expression is led by consultant Jacques Mell; sensitive crystallization to determine the quality of a wine is demonstrated by oenologist and specialist Margarethe Chapelle. École du Vin et des Terroirs was formed under the guidance of Anne-Claude Leflaive in collaboration with Michel Boss, Vinium; Pierre-Henri Gagey, Louis Jadot; Dominique Lafon, Domaine des Comtes Lafon; Jean-Marc Roulot, Domaine Roulot; Aubert de Villaine, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti; and Antoine Lepetit, Domaine Leflaive.

Classes will resume in October, following harvest. For more information or to attend École du Vin et des Terroirs, please visit: www.ecolevinterroir.org

École du Vin et des Terroirs holds its seminars primarily in the vineyards, such as Domaine Leflaive’s Clavoillon vineyard in Puligny-Montrachet, seen in the foreground, which is farmed biodynamically. The innovative school offers classes throughout the year in both English and French.

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Biodynamic Viticulture at Domaine Leflaive After comparing organic to biodynamic farming over the course of seven years, in the autumn of 1997 Domaine Leflaive switched to 100 percent biodynamic viticulture. This labor-intensive and exacting process requires the application of specially prepared compost and herbal preparations on precise days, as determined by lunar, planetary and phenolic cycles. But biodynamic viticulture has proven itself, improving the health of the soil and arresting the spread of virus and disease. The health of the vines is evident in the brilliance of their foliage and their resistance to mildew. In addition, the quality of the fruit has improved, achieving higher sugar levels while retaining acidity.

Anne-Claude Leflaive’s dedication to her family’s historic domaine is evident in her respect for the soil, her shift from organic to biodynamic cultivation and her commitment to quality—from the selection of oak for drying at the domaine, the sorting of the harvest, to the cleanliness of the fruit and of the winery itself. This progressive domaine is a leader in sustainable vineyard practices, environmental responsibility and education (see facing page).

Pierre Morey—Looking Back, Moving Forward What will you miss the most about leaving Domaine Leflaive?

At this time it is difficult to imagine what I will miss the most.

Perhaps just to walk around the grand cru and the premier cru vineyards and to taste the new vintages. I am sure, though, I will always feel nostalgic about these vineyards—they were under my care for 20 years. I still look with love at the vineyards of Domaine Comte Lafon, where I began as a young man and worked until just 20 years ago.

In your experience with biodynamic farming, is there one component you feel makes the strongest impact?

Pierre Morey at Domaine Leflaive, where he was cellarmaster from 1989 until July 2008

Pierre Morey is as much a part of Burgundy as it is of him. So much so that wine authority Clive Coates once wrote, “Morey’s blood runs with wine.” But after a lifetime spent in the top cellars of Burgundy, Pierre has retired from Domaine Leflaive and will devote himself full-time to working with his daughter, Anne Morey, at Domaine Pierre Morey and Morey-Blanc. We asked him about what the future will bring.

Biodynamics for me represent an ensemble of considerations and refections that follow precise observations of the laws of life, adapted and applied to vegetation, animals (and even human beings). It would be very difficult, in my opinion, to choose one single element that would be the most important. An overall respect for the laws of life—the use of natural products only in very low doses at the most favorable rhythmic or cyclic moment— is conducive to a better balance in the environment and provides a natural resistance to diseases and parasites.

I hope that in the future, thanks to the time made available by retirement from Domaine Leflaive, I will be able to better observe, better understand and better manage every detail of biodynamics so I know how to improve my work in the vineyards and cellars. In order to do so, one needs to have a great deal of patience and humility. I hope that both qualities will be granted to me.

Pierre, when will you retire from Domaine Leflaive and what will you do?

My last day at Domaine Leflaive was Friday, July 18, 2008. I have been accumulating a lot of vacation for a long time so I am enjoying time off until mid-September when harvest will begin for Domaine Pierre Morey and Morey-Blanc.

How will you spend your vacation? Golf? Tennis?

At first, I will just enjoy a different daily rhythm, which will still be quite hectic, and I believe this pace will last for some time as I had fallen behind with my office work, daily little tasks and with different jobs to do at Domaine Pierre Morey. But, one thing I am already doing is spending more time with my grandson and dedicating more time to music. Hopefully I will add to these pleasures some time to read and for “dolce farniente!” (“The joy of doing nothing!”)

Pierre Morey’s grandson, Jean-Victor, early in his career: His mentors are two of Burgundy’s most respected vignerons.

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Biodynamics: behind the mystery

by Nigel Greening, proprietor of Felton Road

Mustard cover crop in Elms Vineyard, Felton Road Winery in distance

A lot is written about Biodynamics, but very little seems to be understood. Vague accounts of burying dung-filled cow horns on the equinox, stuffing stag bladders with yarrow flowers, of planetary calendars and arcane ritual—it all adds up to a rather disturbing picture, a sort of Harry Potter goes gardening. Indeed, it would probably be regarded more with mirth than as a serious viticultural practice were it not for the fact that so many of the world’s finest wines are grown this way.

Biodynamics itself has a broad spread of opinion within it, and often there is big disagreement between practitioners as to exactly what it is. So here is an appraisal from one of those at the practical end of the spectrum.

Winemaker Blair Walter inspects Pinot Noir

Viticulturalist Gareth King feeds the “chook” (that’s “chicken” to you northerners).

It started with a series of lectures by Rudolf Steiner in the 1920s. He was close to the end of his life and was proposing ideas on agriculture. These were not the result of any trials or experimentation, but simply philosophical musings on ways to rediscover the old ties that farmers had with the land before there were chemicals and machines to help—a time when survival required acute natural radar. (On this point, the more literal biodynamic fundamentalists would strongly disagree. They often regard every word of the lectures as fact.)

Let’s put aside the weird stuff and focus on Steiner’s big ideas. I think he had about half a dozen, and that’s a lot more than most people manage. For a start, this was the first time that anybody had put forward a formal program for an organic growing system; the organic movement simply did not exist back then.

I think Steiner’s key ideas are as follows:

Stirring “BD 500” or biodynamic preparation 500

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• That any “farm” is an inextricably interconnected, dynamic living system where all creatures, from microbes to

humans, both inter-depend and interact (what ecologists today call an ecosystem).

• That it is beneficial to take a bottomup approach to nurturing a living system: Look after the bottom of the food chain, especially the microbial system, and all above will more easily fall into place.

• That a complex and mixed ecosystem inherently forms a more beneficial balance, thus avoiding many of the problems of mono-cultures or other imbalanced systems.

• That there exist critical points in time and place where a tiny action can create a large result, whether beneficial or harmful.

• That most of the things we see as problems and disease are the result of imbalance in the system. In a balanced system, these things tend to stay at levels that are not problematic, and we don’t need to eliminate them.

• Lastly, that there is a need for an ethical dimension to guardianship of the land and farming.

There is nothing contained in these ideas that any modern ecologist wouldn’t immediately understand. It is in the details—Steiner’s suggestions for strategies to deal with the above—that the stranger and more controversial aspects lie.

So what does Biodynamics mean to us at Felton Road?

It means we try to understand the natural rhythms of the seasons, we try to open our eyes, ears and any other senses we have to observe the detail of our ecosystem.

We seek balance and try to get a better understanding of what balance is. We try to make our land productive to everything that lives here: We grow flowers for the bees, compost builds fungal populations (and wild mushrooms), a dozen cover crops are chosen to build beneficial insect populations. We have chickens in the vines supplying the people who work here with

Biodynamics: behind the mystery

by Nigel Greening (continued from previous page) eggs (and meat). Our back-country used to need helicopter spraying with herbicide to keep the thorns and briars at bay: now a herd of voracious goats do the job for us. Spare corners of land are used for vegetables, fruit and nut trees. By using pea straw as a composting ingredient, we see a continual harvest of fresh pea shoots from the rich piles through the summer.

A good example of the difference lies in the following two comparisons: A neighbor regularly needs to use herbicide in his irrigation dam to keep down weed and algae levels. They have this problem because chemical fertilizers run off the land and into the dam, causing the weed to bloom. Our fertilizer-free dam needs no money spent on treatment, has no weed problem and boasts a population of wild rainbow trout to boot.

Again, a neighbor is currently spending a quarter of a million dollars on new waste treatment systems for the winery to meet tougher new standards. We were delighted and surprised when we conducted an audit to discover that we didn’t need to do this!

At first the experts couldn’t understand how we generated such low figures in our waste water. It took a while for the truth to sink in: It isn’t that we do something to clean our waste, it is simply that we have very little of it because we don’t waste.

“Waste” is a swear word in our culture. If it is wine, every last drop goes to the bottle.

If it is organic residues from winemaking, we compost it (along with all our office and kitchen waste). Any lees left over from winemaking is distilled to make “Fine” (brandy). No waste, no residues, no quarter of a million dollar waste management plant.

Not Harry Potter, just post-modern, efficient, ethical farming. Who says Biodynamics is weird?

Elms Vineyard Block 2, Chardonnay and Riesling, in autumn

Harvest in Elms Vineyard

Mist over Block 3, Elms Vineyard

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Leave Only Footprints

crops of grains and legumes are grown between the vines and mowed in the spring.

Soil improvement is further achieved by the application of organic matter and gypsum.

Grant Burge Wines has embarked upon a comprehensive program of sustainable environmental practices in the Barossa Valley, with the ultimate goal of becoming 100 percent carbon-neutral. This objective requires that all facets of Grant Burge’s operations—from vineyards to wineries (there are three separate facilities), warehousing, packaging and day-to-day business operations—must be evaluated.

An initial environmental assessment has already established their present carbon footprint and identified remediation.

TREE Planting: Plans are underway for a tree planting operation involving several thousand trees in vacant land surrounding the vineyards and wineries and along the escarpment behind the Barossa Vines winery.

The Vineyards: Vineyard soils are Grant Burge’s greatest asset. Barossa subsoils retain moisture well into summer, so supplementary water use is kept low by drip irrigation and undervine mulching. The best Grenache, Shiraz and Mourvedre are from blocks that are dry farmed or close to dry farmed.

To protect soils, cultivation is kept to an absolute minimum. Two-thirds of the total vineyard area is planted with perennial grasses, and in other vineyards, rotational

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Packaging/Warehousing: Grant Burge Wines is a signatory to Australia’s National Packaging Covenant.

As part of that covenant, the company has ensured that all products used in the packaging process—from glass, foils and screwcaps to corks, labels and cartons—are 100 percent recyclable.

At the same time, all inks and solvents used throughout the warehousing process are environmentally friendly, and the company is in the process of installing a waterless production facility for cleaning and sterilizing bottles prior to filling.

New warehousing and bottling facilities planned for the next five years will incorporate the use of solar power wherever economically and technologically possible.

Over the past three years, the company has made a major commitment to the use of Stelvin bottle closures, moving from 100 percent cork to less than 20 percent cork, with further increases in the recyclable Stelvin closure likely in the future.

WineMaking: While winemaking is largely a natural process, efforts are underway to ensure Grant Burge Wines is as environmentally friendly as possible in all facets of its winemaking. Water usage is a major

concern, and steps have been taken to harness natural rainfall where possible and use this water for processes in the winery.

Currently all waste water from winery operations is collected and then put into a central Barossa Valley collection system for secondary use in vineyards, parks, gardens and other facilities.

All chemicals used in winemaking have been categorized, with only oxygen-based products now used, replacing chlorinebased chemicals. All by-products from the winery processes are reused, including earth filtration, marc and lees for distillation and stalks for stock feed.

Vehicles/Power Usage and recycling: Already 75 percent of all vehicles used by the company are bio-diesel powered, and the current plan is to ensure that all new vehicles are bio-diesel. The company is also investigating the use of hybrid motor vehicles as an environmentally friendly option. A company-wide inventory of the use of power is under way, coupled with a full inventory of recycled and recyclable paper, printing and other office products.

In Summary: Grant Burge Wines takes its environmental responsibility as a matter of serious consequence for the Barossa and embraces sustainable environmental practices. The company is continually evaluating all levels of operation in order to reach its carbonneutral goal. Grant Burge and his staff are totally committed to this worthy objective.

The Holy Trinity 2003 from

50- to 110-year-old vines

The Holy Trinity is modeled on the Rhône-style blend of Grenache, Shiraz and Mourvedre (G-S-M), which is an ideal combination for the Barossa Valley. Grant Burge believes this blend has the ability to become as celebrated as Barossa Shiraz.

The 2003 vintage was a drier, warmer year which provided lower yields and in turn, intensely concentrated fruit characters. The fruit was handpicked from old, dry-farmed Barossa vines. The youngest of these vines are 50 years old, while the oldest are well over 110 years old!

After crushing, the juice was fermented on the skins for six days. The majority of the juice was macerated separately on the skins for up to 30 days after primary fermentation to improve the structure and to extract rich color and flavor. The wine was transferred in individual portions to one-, two-, three- and four-year-old French oak barrels to mature for 16 months.

91 points “The 2003 The Holy Trinity is composed of 39% Grenache, 37% Shiraz, and 24% Mourvedre. It presents an enticing nose of earth, garrigue, sage, lavender, black cherry, and black raspberry. Fleshy, ripe, and fullflavored . . .”

Dr. Jay Miller October 2007

“The 2005 Pinot Noirs are very good indeed, but it was a 2004 Sonoma Coast Vineyards and a 2006 Bell Glos that stole the show.”

Richard L. Elia Publisher and President QRW’s 24th Annual California Best of The Best

Best of The Best

California Pinot Noirs QRW TASTING TEAM

F i v e - S ta r P I N O T N O I R S “Wines of extraordinary character and quality – in a class by themselves”

2004 Coltassala

Chianti Classico Riserva

94 points

“The vines at Coltassala—all Sangiovese and Mammolo—are planted at both southeast and southwest exposures around a hillside that rises to nearly 1,700 feet.

Volpaia has made Coltassala since 1980, and this year’s bottling shows the degree to which Sangiovese from the scrubland hills between Florence and Siena can achieve rustic nobility. The wine feels shy when first poured, gradually revealing scents of dried roses and rosemary along with dark, plummy fruit. As time passes, it becomes more floral, the strong tannins providing firm structure and savory length. Completely satisfying, cellar this for five to eight years or decant it for a grilled rib-eye.”

Best of Show 2004 Sonoma Coast Vineyards Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast)

2004 Sonoma Coast Vineyards Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast) “Big, deep, rich, powerful, supernally long, black fruit and roasted nut flavors.”

Summer 2008

April 2008

Coltassala (cole-tah-SAWL-ah) vineyard shares its name and location with the villa that houses Castello di Volpaia’s vinegar-making equipment. This vineyard was grafted over from various clones of Sangiovese to newer Sangiovese clones in 1977 (when the vineyard was 10 years old).

Volpaia selected the best Sangiovese clones available and increased the vineyard density to 2,306 vines per acre. The first vintage, in 1980, was produced from 95% Sangiovese and 5% Mammolo, which is the same blend used today.

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MARC KREYDENWEISS

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Leading

the

In 1990, when Marc Kreydenweiss converted his family’s 200-plus-year-old estate entirely to biodynamic farming, he was considered a rebel. Today, his efforts have been adopted and acclaimed by winemakers worldwide.

For over 350 years, Domaine Marc Kreydenweiss’ hillside vineyards had been farmed, eroded, blown by the winds of time, their health compromised by pesticides, herbicides and fertilizers—the chemical revolution.

In 1971, Marc, at age 23, took over the winery. With youth and ambition on his side, Marc set out to produce fine Alsatian wines of the very highest quality using deeply traditional methods combined with the avant-garde. Some of his first achievements included farming organically, reducing yields through pruning and expanding the domaine. Most importantly, he began focusing on planting specific varietals to specific terroir to capture the truest expression of each grape variety.

B iodynamic W ay

composting to correspond with cosmic as well as earthly cycles. Above all, he needed to tend the domaine’s vineyards with meticulous and mindful care, bringing the soils back to life.

Marc rose to the challenge. His intensive work and commitment to the land through biodynamics has paid off. Today the soils of his grand cru vineyards are living again, as they were over three centuries ago when Marc’s ancestors first planted vines. All the Kreydenweiss vineyards have become 100 percent certified biodynamic and have reaped the rewards. The microbial life of the soil thrives, and in turn, the activity of these microorganisms breaks down trace elements and minerals which become soluble and able to be absorbed by the roots, thus transmitting nutritional energy to the vines and the grapes.

in

A l sace

The exceptional terroir which was always present in Marc’s wines has become more distinctive, with each vineyard expressing its individuality. The wines have higher acidity, and malolactic fermentation occurs naturally, providing more structure, bouquet and balance, more healthful wines. The meticulous focus on biodynamic practices has led to concentration, complexity and length in each wine. Biodynamics, Marc believes, is fully responsible for the richness and distinctive minerality found in Domaine Marc Kreydenweiss wines.

His love for the soil grew into a love for mother earth, and he began to champion the well-being of our planet and preservation of its natural resources, while still producing quality wines. Marc yearned to feel a more tangible connection to his commitment to preserving the planet. He found himself drawn to the viticultural philosophy of biodynamics and began practicing biodynamic farming in 1989.

One year later, the estate was converted to 100 percent biodynamic farming, a distinction shared by only a handful of wineries in the world.

To do this was a challenge; Marc had to learn to respect the rhythm and balance of nature. He had to consider the movements of the moon and planets, which influence plants in subtle, perhaps immeasurable ways, for all farming decisions. He had to adapt to timing the plowing, planting and

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SALON 1997 1997 Vintage Report: A difficult growing season was fortunately followed by a beautiful harvest under the sun with cool evening temperatures. In the end, yields for Salon were smaller than in 1996. The impressive ripeness of the fruit sustained an acidity comparable to 1995.

Only the first pressing is used for Salon, which gives the lightest, freshest juice with the highest level of acidity. There is no blending, no malolactic fermentation and no oak used. Salon, as with the majority of the wines of Delamotte, is riddled by hand. Precisely 10 years on the lees was necessary for this vintage to mature, a long, peaceful, effervescent rest in Salon’s limestone cellars.

SALON 1997 Le Mesnil-sur-Oger

93 points

“Subtle ginger, floral and citrus aromas build to flavors of lemon pie, honey and hazelnut. Elegant and refined, with a firm underlying structure and a long aftertaste.”

Bruce Sanderson, Wine Spectator, June 15, 2008 “Salon 1997 Champagne is certainly extremely individual: very tense and tightknit with a sort of filigree texture, athletic rather than corpulent—really quite delicate with an exotic whiff of incense. It would make a super-luxurious apéritif . . . at any point over the next five to 10 years, I would have thought. It’s rather a ballerina whereas the 1999 waiting in the wings sounds a bit of a boxer.”

Jancis Robinson, Purple Pages: “Snazzy new champagne releases,” jancisrobinson.com, May 27, 2008

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Photos: Serge Chapuis

Disgorgement began at the end of 2007 with a lighter dosage than in recent vintages.

Salon 1997 is sensual, its delicate structure typical of the House style but with a novel charm not articulated by previous wines of the 1990s.

Declaring a Vintage: An Esoteric Art at Salon and Delamotte

Photo: Serge Chapuis

The criteria for declaring a vintage are extremely stringent. For both the House of Salon and the House of Delamotte there are three key indicators at harvest: a good level of acidity, a good level of sugar and a good phenolic (taste) complexity.

From Vine to Wine — The Art of Creation at Champagne SALON From Vine: Eugène-Aimé Salon established the House of Salon in 1920, insisting on making his now famous champagne from 100 percent Chardonnay grapes, a revolutionary concept at the time. (Hitherto, champagnes had been produced with two-thirds black grapes—Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier —which were deemed necessary for body and structure.) Today, the grapes still come from the House of Salon’s 1.5hectare garden plot and from 19 carefully selected parcels in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, all of which were chosen by Aimé Salon. The vineyards are situated mid-slope and are densely planted at 8,000 vines per hectare.

The subsoil of the grand cru Le Mesnil-surOger is deep chalk, which provides both moisture and acidity for the vines, even during drought conditions. The vines, 40 years old on average, are severely pruned to maximize quality, and all of the grapes are hand-picked and hand-sorted.

To Wine: Both Salon and its sister wine, Delamotte (the fifth-oldest Champagne house), are vinified separately by chef de cave Michel Fauconnet. Michel had worked as assistant to winemaker Alain Terrier for 20 years, until succeeding Terrier in 2004.

Strict attention to detail is a must in both the grape selection and the winemaking.

Pressing is carried out at Le Mesnil-sur-

Oger, using Salon’s own, traditional basket press. Only the first pressing is used, which gives the lightest, freshest juice with the highest level of acidity, essential to the evolution and vivacity of the final wine. The first fermentation takes place in temperature-controlled, stainless steel tanks which preserves freshness. There is no blending whatsoever, no malolactic fermentation and no oak.

Time is an essential factor in very fine Champagne, and at Salon the finished wine is aged in Salon’s limestone cellars for 10 years (on average) prior to disgorgement and its ultimate release. This long maturation allows the acidity and fruit to meld seamlessly, adding to Salon’s characteristic complexity, elegance and finesse. Riddling, the process whereby the sediment thrown by the second fermentation is edged gradually into the neck of the bottle, is done by hand. This is a meticulous, laborintensive process, rendered all the more difficult by the name “Salon” in bas-relief in the glass. Exceptional ingredients, allied to this assiduous attention to detail, create a wine which can be enjoyed equally as an apéritif or an accompaniment to fine food.

In years when a vintage of Salon is not declared (see sidebar for details), the grapes are added to those of Salon’s sister house, Delamotte, which produces great wines in its own right.

But, the final decision is made with the still wines in tank, called vins clairs in Champagne. Many tastings are done over the fermentation period of the wines, with the last usually in May or June of the year following the harvest, when the first fermentation is complete. This decision is based purely on a tasting by a small group of people, including CEO Didier Depond, but the final decision is made by Michel Fauconnet, the chef de cave, for great wine cannot be made democratically!

There are many factors that come into play in the process of determining a vintage: – Mineral content – Acidity – Fruit content But the list goes on with numerous parameters in the wine that can only be defined by metaphors such as depth, substance, weight—in reality the character of the wine is interpreted by the chef de cave, and there is no need for words.

The declaration of a Salon vintage is exacting and momentous; acidity plays a most important role in the decision, as this wine requires over 20 years to reach maturity. The decision for a Delamotte vintage is very similar, taking into account that the wine is known to express itself earlier than Salon, yet it often ages as well as Salon in the same vintages.

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Sustainability in the Vineyard and new Winery L I V E

Ponzi Vineyards Builds New “Green” Winery 30+ years of sustainable practices Ponzi Vineyards, one of the Willamette Valley’s founding wineries, has always been a leader in sustainable viticulture, encouraging responsible stewardship of the land at each of their vineyard sites.

In 2000, the Ponzi family achieved LIVE certification from the state of Oregon for the winery and all their vineyards. So it comes as no surprise that when the Ponzi family began construction on a new winemaking facility, making it ecologically sound was foremost among their priorities.

Aptly named “Collina del Sogno,” which loosely translates from Italian to “Place of Dreams,” Dick Ponzi’s dream of doing it right, as he puts it, is a goal realized after more than 30 years of planning.

Ponzi’s state-of-the-art, sustainable winemaking vision marries innovation and efficiency with environmentally friendly wine production. The 30,000-square foot facility maximizes the natural contours of the site for light, temperature control, gravity flow processing, water retention and recycling.

reflective properties to support the high quantity of insulating material to maintain constant cool temperatures. Additionally, the building is 80 percent buried in the ground which further sustains consistent temperatures. Ventilation is accomplished by mechanically bringing in cool evening air when required. No air conditioning should be necessary.

Slender exterior windows along the top of the building allow for just enough sunlight to pass into the facility, making it bright enough to work without appreciably affecting the interior temperature. This

Low Input Viticulture & Enology, Inc.

Landscaping will feature drought resistant and native plant species.

Collina del Sogno sits on a 42-acre parcel between Beaverton and Newberg, atop Chehalem Mountain. The project is scheduled for completion in time for the 2008 harvest.

The second generation—Michel, Maria and Luisa—maintains the tradition of sustainable practices in every aspect of the family business. Winemaker Luisa Ponzi’s gentle, hands-on techniques in the vineyards and cellar preserve varietal character and ensure a healthy ecosystem in which the vines, native plants and insects can thrive.

“In today’s global market, it’s imperative every wine send a clear message to its buyer. Our story is about high quality, sustainable agriculture and true stewardship of the land. This message is paramount to Oregon’s positioning in the global wine marketplace. LIVE certification emphasizes this point and creates Collina del Sogno is a state-of-the-art, four-level gravity flow, sustainable facility. a brand position that The four-level winery is primarily indirect natural lighting is designed around most other wine regions simply don’t have constructed of concrete and metal with 90 percent of the exterior walls, with —it’s our edge on the competition. To wood features. The concrete portion energy efficient fluorescent light fixtures be able to say your winery and vineyards of the building utilizes fly ash, a waste also available when necessary. have achieved the highest certification product from coal-fired power plants. in the world for sustainable viticulture, Solar panels line the south-facing side Not all of the innovation takes place that’s pretty powerful,” says Maria Ponzi of the angled roof, providing energy that indoors. For example, the facility will also Fogelstrom, Sales and Marketing Director will be integrated into the electrical power take advantage of the rainy Oregon climate at Ponzi Vineyards. system. Excess electrical power will be sold by collecting and storing storm water for or credited back to the power company. irrigation and fire suppression. All process For more information, visit: The Zincalume® metal roof contributes water will be collected for irrigation as well. www.ponziwines.com or www.liveinc.org

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sustainable Vineyard and winery Practices The wineries and estates within the Wilson Daniels Ltd. (WDL) portfolio have embraced a range of sustainable vineyard and winery practices. Following are examples of the many eco-friendly efforts undertaken by the properties within the WDL portfolio.

SUSTAINABLE FARMING: Sustainable viticulture includes, but is not limited to the following practices: the use of compost and natural soil amendments; use of organic or naturally derived pesticides, herbicides and fungicides; hand-pulling of leaves; integrated pest management; the use of beneficial insects and cover crops. The majority of wineries in the WDL portfolio practice many of these sustainable methods.

Biodynamic FARMING: Biodynamic farming is a holistic (and wholly organic) approach to viticulture based on a series of lectures given in 1924

by Austrian philosopher Rudolf Steiner. Its main principles are: to respect the rhythm and balance of nature; farm according to a biodynamic calendar; encourage soil health with the use of only natural fertilizer treatments and special biodynamic preparations; create a balanced and diverse population of flora and fauna; recycle all organic waste into the vineyard. Any winery that is biodynamic is, by definition, also organic. Wineries within the WDL portfolio that practice biodynamic farming are: Domaine Leflaive, Domaine Marc Kreydenweiss, Domaine Pierre Morey, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti and Felton Road.

Organic: Organic farming relies on the conservation of soil and water as well as the elimination of synthetic pesticides, herbicides and fungicides. Natural ingredients are used for composting, fertilizing and fighting pests and disease. Additionally, genetically modified crops are prohibited. Wineries using organic farming in whole or part include Castello di Volpaia (EU certified) and Clos Pegase Winery.

LIVE Certified: An Oregon-based certification for sustainable farming, LIVE (Low Input Viticulture and Ecology) encourages biodiversity in the vineyard. Wineries must meet specific goals, among which are viewing the vineyard as a whole system; maintaining economically viable viticulture; producing the highest quality fruit; solving problems in ways that minimize the use of chemicals, with the goal of protecting the farmer and the environment; encouraging stewardship of the land. Ponzi Vineyards and WillaKenzie Estate are LIVE certified.

Salmon-Safe: Administered by an independent, non-profit organization, this program serves to restore urban and agricultural watersheds in the Pacific Northwest to encourage the conservation and growth of wild salmon. Ponzi Vineyards and WillaKenzie Estate are Salmon-Safe certified.

Fish Friendly Farming: Wineries gain Fish Friendly Farming certification after a designated period (currently 18 months) working towards meeting the program’s objectives, which include complying with all local, state and federal environmental regulations; implementing Beneficial Management Practices (BMPs); promoting sustainable agriculture and ecosystems; improving water quality and aquatic habitat; implementing restoration and soil erosion control projects.

Within the WDL portfolio, wineries currently certified include Gundlach Bundschu and Silverado Vineyards; Schramsberg Vineyards is mid-stream.

CArbon-neutral Power: Energy demand is reduced entirely or in part by renewable energy sources, such as solar, hydro or wind. Silverado Vineyards and Gundlach Bundschu have installed solar panels. Felton Road relies entirely on hydro-generated electricity.

Lutte RaisonnÉe: A French term meaning “reasoned protection,” lutte raisonnée advocates the use of chemical intervention only when needed to fight disease, pests or other problems and only in the areas affected. Champagne Salon, Champagne Delamotte, Domaine Philippe & Vincent Jaboulet, Domaine Faiveley, Tardieu-Laurent, Girard Winery and Gundlach Bundschu are among the wineries that follow this more flexible farming method.

Alternative Vehicles: Hybrid and bio-diesel vehicles, such as trucks and tractors, are utilized to conserve gasoline and reduce pollution.

Water RECYCLING and RECLAMATION: Water conservation begins with efficient processes to reduce usage. It incorporates the use of water reclaimed from the winery for other purposes, such as irrigation. Wineries that practice this include Burgess Cellars, Gundlach Bundschu, Champagne Salon, Champagne Delamotte, Clos Pegase Winery, Grant Burge Wines, Kumeu River, Silverado Vineyards and Sonoma Coast Vineyards.

Eco-Friendly Winery and WAREHOUSE Practices: The majority of the wineries and estates in the WDL portfolio have adopted one or more eco-friendly practices in their winery or warehouse, including eliminating chlorine, using winemaking by-products for compost, using recyclable materials for packaging and shipping, and storing wines in naturally cooled areas. Efficient lighting and energyconservation systems are also used in some wineries and estates.

AGRICULTURAL LAND PRESERVATION: Agricultural land preservation efforts by wineries within the WDL portfolio have included protecting non-commercial open spaces. Gainey Vineyard, J. Davies and Schramsberg Vineyards have all taken an active role in preserving ag land.

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Introducing the M.L.A. Portfolio of Fine Wine Estates from the Antinori Brothers

The M.L.A. Portfolio is a small collection of wine estates developed by Marchese Lodovico Antinori and his brother, Marchese Piero Antinori. The portfolio consists of wine estates in the Antinoris’ homeland of Italy as well as New Zealand. Tenuta di Biserno, and its sister estate, Tenuta dei Pianali, are located in the Alta Maremma region of Tuscany; Mount Nelson is from Marlborough, New Zealand.

This venture is the first joint endeavor between the Antinori brothers outside and separate from their family’s historic wine business, where they worked together briefly more than two decades ago. A milestone in the Antinori family history, this is something that would have delighted their late father, Marchese Niccolò Antinori.

The Antinori family has been making wine for more than 600 years, since Giovanni di

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Piero Antinori became part of the Vintners Guild of Florence in 1385. Throughout its long history—spanning 26 generations— the Antinori family has always personally managed the business, making innovative, often courageous choices, always with unwavering respect for tradition, quality and the land.

Marchese Piero Antinori

Marchese Lodovico Antinori

The pedigree and success of each brother is undeniable and supported by such recognition as each having made a wine that was named Wine Spectator’s “Wine of the Year” in its annual Top 100: Piero for his Solaia 1997 in 2000 and Lodovico for his Ornellaia 1998 in 2001. Both Lodovico and Piero have the natural gift of being able to interpret vineyard parcels and match them with grape varieties and growing techniques. It is, therefore, with tremendous pride that Wilson Daniels Ltd. introduces the collaborative M.L.A. collection.

INSOGLIO del cinghiale

Il Pino di Biserno

Coronato

Insoglio del cinghiale is the foundation wine of Tenuta di Biserno. Its name was inspired by a well-known painting depicting a boar hunt by the celebrated Italian postimpressionist, Eugenio Cecconi. “Insoglio” is the place in the woods where “cinghiale,” or “boar,” are habitually found. Cinghiale is especially meaningful to Tuscans because it has been a staple in their diet for centuries and, not surprisingly, is a wonderful match for the rich, robust taste of Insoglio. On the palate the wine is balanced and fruity, with a good backbone of tannin.

Il Pino di Biserno’s label features an ancient heraldic symbol flanked by two wild boars with a ribbon that says “in tempore uniti,” meaning “with time comes unity.” This phrase symbolizes the first joint venture between the brothers Marchesi Lodovico and Piero Antinori.

Coronato is produced from grapes grown in the Tenuta dei Pianali estate vineyard in Bolgheri. Nearby “Poggio di Coronato,” or “Crown Mountain,” inspired the name of Pianali’s singular wine. The inaugural 2005 vintage of this wine is exclusively for the United States.

The fruit for Il Pino is grown in vineyard parcels surrounding the estate relais in Bibbona, Tuscany. The vines were planted between 2002 and 2004 using highdensity spacing of 6,500 vines per hectare.

The upper block is noted for its Bolgheri conglomerate soils, which are well-drained and ideal for growing Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. The lower block consists of clay soils ideal for Merlot.

The Pianali estate vineyard is located on an elevated plain, which is effected by the marine influences of the nearby Tyrrhenian Sea. The land is well exposed and ventilated with well-draining soils composed primarily of sandy clay. The vines were planted in 2000 and 2001, using high density spacing of 7,500 vines per hectare.

The vineyards of Tenuta di Biserno are located in Bibbona, Tuscany, north of and bordering the Bolgheri region of Alta Maremma, near the Tyrrhenian Sea. Nearly 150 planted acres are divided into approximately 30 vineyard parcels. The vineyard elevations range from 230 to 330 feet. Varietals were chosen for each parcel based upon optimum slope, soil composition, sun exposure and sea breezes.

The 2006 vintage is comprised of 35% Syrah, 30% Cabernet Franc, 30% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot. The grapes were handharvested from parcels planted with a high density spacing of 6,500 vines per hectare, then sorted and destemmed in the cellar.

The 2005 vintage is composed of 35% Cabernet Franc, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 15% Petit Verdot. The wine is aged 12 months in French oak barrels, followed by six months in bottle.

The 2005 vintage is made from 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Cabernet Franc, 25% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot. The wine underwent malolactic fermentation and was aged for 12 months in both new (40%) and one-year-old (60%) French barrels, followed by six months in bottle.

Bright ruby in color, the nose opens with a clear-cut aroma of ripe soft fruit, which is perfectly offset by spicy notes and continues with a hint of eucalyptus as it evolves in the glass. The wine has excellent balance, with fine, ripe tannins and elegant fruit flavors.

Deep ruby-red colored, Coronato shows intense, ripe aromas of dried plums, dark berries and cocoa. Well-structured with good acidity balancing the ripe fruit characters and a lasting finish, this wine can be cellared for three to five years.

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2007 Mount Nelson Sauvignon Blanc

Introduction After producing a singular Sauvignon Blanc at Tenuta dell’Ornellaia in Tuscany for many years, Marchese Lodovico Antinori wanted to make a wine that captured the same crisp, natural exuberance of the grape, while displaying restraint, elegance and structure. He turned to Marlborough, New Zealand, and in 2003 purchased, with his brother Piero Antinori, a portion of the Meadowbank vineyard from respected viticulturist William Grigg. In 2004, they produced the first vintage of Mount Nelson from this property, fulfilling Lodovico’s dream of creating a signature white wine outside of Italy.

Vineyard profile The Mount Nelson vineyard is situated just 60 feet above sea level on the banks of the Taylor River near the mouth of Cloudy Bay. The soil consists of free-draining alluvial loam over deep, stony river deposits. Thirty-two acres are planted to the single varietal, Sauvignon Blanc, using carefully selected clones. Mount Nelson vineyard supplies 60 percent of the fruit, and the remainder comes from the nearly identical neighboring 35-acre Meadowbank vineyard, still owned and managed by William Grigg. harvest & Winemaking The 2007 vintage was harvested between March 24–29, block by block in the early morning hours to avoid the heat of the day. The fruit was then minimally handled to preserve its quality. It was pressed and transferred to jacketed stainless steel tanks for 48 hours of cold soak. The juice underwent a cold fermentation with selected yeasts to maintain and enhance the cool-climate character of the wine, before aging four months on the lees. It did not undergo malolactic fermentation.

Winemaker notes Clear and bright with pale green and straw highlights. Gooseberry and passion fruit aromas with freshly cut grass notes and a faint undercurrent of citrus blossom. Concentrated and intense, the wine shows gooseberry, passion fruit and stone-fruit flavors with a hint of lime. A Sauvignon Blanc made in a classical dry style, it shows fresh and vibrant acidity with a generous mouthfeel and a warm, rich and lingering finish. This Sauvignon Blanc is enjoyable immediately but will cellar for up to three years.

Technical Information Alcohol 12.8% Acidity 7.3g/L pH 3.11 Imported 4,000 cases Winemaker Helena Lindberg

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Where Physics and Passion Merge to Make Great Wine Oregon is known for many things, but rain and wine are two of the most prominent in most people’s minds. The latter could not exist without the former, but rain can also make life tricky for those that make wine, especially if it falls during harvest.

But this may be less true for Bernard Lacroute, owner of WillaKenzie Estate in Yamhill, Oregon.

A Burgundian by birth, engineer by training and vintner by passion, Bernard has often relied on all three traits to innovate at WillaKenzie Estate. This is most recently demonstrated by the cold-storage facility he built a stone’s throw above the winery.

Historically, Willakenzie Estate had used a cold soak technique employed by Burgundian winemakers for ages. This method cools the must (destemmed, crushed grapes or whole clusters) before fermentation is allowed to start. Keeping the must cold prevents the yeast from converting sugar to alcohol, while allowing color and flavors to be extracted. A cold soak can also significantly enhance the aromatic profile of wine, especially for Pinot Noir.

Several years ago, Bernard and WillaKenzie Estate winemaker Thibaud Mandet began experimenting with cooling whole grape clusters before converting them to must. They found if the berries were cooled to between 35 and 45 degrees Fahrenheit before destemming, the integrity of the berries could be preserved to a much greater extent and the aromatics of the wines refined further.

Photo: Andrea Johnson

Initiated during the 2007 harvest, this giant “refrigerator” provided WillaKenzie Estate with a hidden asset and ultimately a unique tool to combat one of the area’s biggest challenges: rain during harvest. Because cooling can be accomplished by running cold air at high velocity, exterior moisture can be removed from the grapes by using a few laws of physics, thereby eliminating excess water during the winemaking process. This discovery was icing on the cake for a process that already had proven value.

The vineyards at WillaKenzie Estate are certified by both LIVE and Salmon-Safe. LIVE (Low Input Viticulture and Enology) is an Oregon-based non-profit organization, providing education and certification for vineyards using international standards of sustainable viticulture practices in winegrape production. The goals are to view the vineyard as a whole ecological system; to reduce reliance on synthetic chemicals and fertilizers; to promote biological diversity, natural fertility and ecosystem stability through responsible land stewardship. LIVE also partners with Salmon-Safe to restore and maintain healthy watersheds. Salmon-Safe is an independent nonprofit organization based in Portland, devoted to restoring agricultural and urban watersheds so that salmon can spawn and thrive. Native salmon are a key species within the Pacific Northwest, and their conservation is closely linked to the overall health of the ecosystem.

After using refrigerated trucks for a few years, Bernard designed a facility specifically for this purpose. Partially buried in the hillside, it is comprised of four cooling cells. Three cells are capable of bringing 20 tons of grapes to 35 degrees Fahrenheit in less than 24 hours. The fourth cell is capable of reaching 20 degrees Fahrenheit in the same amount of time.

At a glance, WillaKenzie Estate’s impressive cold-storage facility has a humble façade—it looks like a four-car garage—belying its significant influence and profound impact on making extraordinary wines.

WillaKenzie’s cold storage facility chills grapes within 24 hours of harvest.

WDQLtd. • 23

Recently we caught up with Winemaker Michael Brajkovich MW to talk about New Zealand’s other white wine—Chardonnay.

Mondavi understood this so well, and that was one of his great contributions to the American wine scene.

Are there any other white wines being produced in New Zealand we should be drinking?

Michael, there seems to be a lot of talk about New Zealand Chardonnay.

How have you been involved in these discussions?

In June this year I was a panelist on a seminar at the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen, called “New Zealand: Beyond Sauvignon Blanc.” It was a great opportunity to talk about making Chardonnay in a country many people associate only with Sauvignon Blanc.

Also, Neal Martin, the New Zealand critic for the Wine Advocate, recently wrote an article titled, “New Zealand: More than a ‘Savalanche’,” which makes me believe more people will begin to appreciate the other varieties being grown and produced in New Zealand.

You’ve been producing highly acclaimed Chardonnay at Kumeu River for many years now and have just released two new singlevineyard wines, Coddington and Hunting Hill to complement Maté’s Vineyard. What’s the reaction in the marketplace?

One of our reps in Sydney told me she’s making a T-shirt printed with “Chardonnay: It’s Back.” My response to her was that it never went away. On most of my trade calls this year the emphasis has been on our interesting and diverse range of five (yes, five) Chardonnays, all of which have been well received in the market and by the media.

Why did she think Chardonnay had gone away?

Many people have become bored with Chardonnay because some of the wines being produced are tired, dull and boring. Over-oaked, too buttery and too alcoholic are common gripes, along

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Michael Brajkovich MW

with too sweet and no acidity. Our wines don’t fit that profile.

The first duty of our Chardonnays is to be refreshing and to be a delightful accompaniment to food. To achieve that they must be balanced in terms of fruit, acid, oak and alcohol, and they are. They also have complexity and mouthfeel, along with flavors and aromas that are well suited to pairing with seafood, in particular, but also with poultry and many other dishes.

In Sydney, we had some mackerel sashimi with a lemon wasabi sauce that simply sang together with the ‘06 Hunting Hill.

In Melbourne, it was a Hapuka filet panroasted with a meuniere butter sauce that was great with the ’06 Maté’s Vineyard.

What inspired you to produce such a stunning portfolio of exceptional Chardonnay wine?

In my opinion, Chardonnay grapes have always produced—and still do produce— the best dry white wines in the world, bar none. The reason is that the Chardonnay grape variety has more flavor complexity and acid balance suited to food than any other white grape variety. Everyone who has been trying our Chardonnay recently has commented on how well they pair with various food dishes and also how French they taste. These two observations are closely linked. What the French and other European producers understand so well about wine is the vital link it has with food and the absolutely essential requirement that it be able to accompany food. Robert

Other varieties making a big impact are Pinot Gris and Riesling. We don’t make a Riesling, but Felton Road does a great job with it. Our Pinot Gris, though, is quite cutting edge for New Zealand as it is a very rich style with a small amount of residual sugar that is well suited to food. It has a fantastic texture and is one of the few wines that can handle a spice such as chili, so it goes really well with various Asian cuisines, particularly Thai food.

Michael Brajkovich MW

Issue 176, April 2008

“Kumeu River and Michael Brajkovich MW have both become synonymous with New Zealand’s finest Chardonnay from just outside Auckland. For over two decades they have fashioned Burgundy-inspired wines (particularly Meursault) with their Maté’s Vineyard Chardonnay winning accolades far and wide. In 2006 Michael is debuting two new single vineyard sites: Coddington and Hunting Hill that were hitherto blended into the ‘Chardonnay’ blend, now renamed ‘Estate Chardonnay’ and redesigned the label. Michael is confident that bottling the two single vineyards separately will detract nothing from the quality of the Estate Chardonnay and told me that he intends to move away from the buttery style of Chardonnay and keep the wine on their lees for longer.”

Neal Martin 2006 Kumeu River Maté’s Vineyard 2006 Kumeu River Coddington 2006 Kumeu River Hunting Hill 2006 Kumeu River Estate 2007 Kumeu River Pinot Gris

95 93 91 90 90

Our Environmental Practices Vineyard Practices: • Fish Friendly Farming (www.fishfriendlyfarming.org) certification in

progress for estate vineyards and our Anderson Valley vineyards • Juster Vineyard, Anderson Valley, is in its second year of fully organic

operations – CCOF Certification anticipated in 2008 (www.ccof.org) • Voluntarily adopted no-till farming practices in 1993 • Strict adherence to Napa County hillside ordinances • Incorporation of Sustainable Ag (www.sarep.ucdavis.edu/about/index.htm) • Integrated Pest Management (www.epa.gov/pesticides/factsheets/ipm.htm) • Utilization of only organic or naturally derived fertilizers • Utilization of composted grape material as fertilizer to increase water

efficiency and help build soil structure • Maximize efficiency of water applications and minimize water waste • Preservation of the 160-acre forest surrounding our Calistoga estate

KUMEU RIVER 2006 Estate Chardonnay

90 points

“...sourced from ten estate parcels with a little fruit sourced from identical parcels every year. It has a lovely, Burgundian nose – very minerally with touches of limestone...

The palate is beautifully balanced with that minerally component coming through with touches of limestone and white peach Issue 176, April 2008 on the aftertaste.”

Winery Practices: • On the advisory board to implement Napa Green Winery Certification

Program (www.napavintners.com/about/ab_2_ngwinery.aspx) • Elimination of bleach or related chlorine compounds throughout the winery • Compost all grape material processed at the winery • Utilize techniques to minimize water usage throughout winery operations • Adherence to strict recycling program: glass, metals, plastic, cardboard, paper, wooden pallets and other material generated throughout the production process (This program has been in place since the early 80s.)

• Utilization and storage of wine in underground caves instead of air-

conditioned warehouse buildings • Incorporation of efficient lighting in all winery work spaces

90 points

“Generous cedary oak folds gracefully into apricot, peach and lemony pastry cream flavors. Citrusy acidity keeps this fresh with mineral, stone and floral tones accenting May 15, 2008 the lingering finish.”

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Tuscany Tour 2008

In March the entire Wilson Daniels Ltd. sales and marketing team traveled to Tuscany to visit our Italian properties. We did not mind the showers or cloudy skies, amidst such beautiful countryside, ancient architecture and gracious hospitality.

And so many delicious wines!

The bell tower of the church of San Leonino, which is symbolized in the logo for San Leonino wines

Gateway to the historic Tenuta TreRose estate in Montepulciano

Angelini’s San Leonino vineyard manager, Luciano Battistoni, and Francesco Vitulli, export manager, with San Leonino vineyard, ancient cypress grove (rondo) and winery in the background San Leonino in the heart of Chianti Classico

Angelini’s Val di Suga cellars, where Brunello di Montalcino, Vigna del Lago and Vigna Spuntali are aged, and their dramatically expressive modern tasting room (right) above the cellars.

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Made with Organically Grown and Vinified Grapes

New from the

Sauvignon Republic POTTER VALLEY Sauvignon Republic travels the world in search of flavorful Sauvignon sites, but sometimes we turn around and notice a treasure in our own northern California backyard. The Potter Valley AVA, established in 1983, is an absolute gem. This peaceful, green terroir lies at 3,457 feet, significantly higher than the warmer inland Ukiah Valley, which affords greater diurnal temperature swings during the growing season. With its green panorama and abundant water and wildlife, Potter Valley is widely recognized as a premium niche for aromatic grapes such as Sauvignon and Riesling as well as for Pinot Noir.

2007 VINTAGE Vecino Vineyards, our chosen vineyard-designate, is a member of CCOF (California Certified Organic Farmers), meaning they have been certified as a grower of organic grapes. Planted with the spicy Musqué clone of Sauvignon, the vine rows slope gently south to catch the sun. Although the 2007 vintage started early on the North Coast, a cool weather pattern pushed our harvest until mid-September, allowing time for optimal flavor development but stopping shy of over-ripeness.

OUR WINEMAKING PARTNER Under our supervision, our grapes were customvinified at nearby Parducci Winery which is CCOF certified to vinify organically grown grapes. This 75year-old winery (aka Mendocino Wine Company), was the first winery in the United States to achieve carbon neutrality. For their dynamic leadership in “green” production practices, they received the 2007 Governor’s Environmental and Economic Leadership Award.

WINEMAKING & TASTING NOTES As always, patience and vigilance were important in determining our optimal harvest date. Natural fruit acidity held as flavor developed.

Under our long, cool-fermentation regime, this Sauvignon Musqué produced a nice array of subtle fruit which we conserved by maintaining cool storage temperatures in neutral stainless steel tanks. Neither wood contact nor malolactic fermentation was ever allowed. The resulting young wine displays light tropical fruit notes with zesty citrus and a firm acid structure. Great as a stand-alone apéritif, this wine will enhance oysters, ceviche, seafood tacos, grilled shrimp and scallops, seafood stews and gumbo, fruity chutneys, Pacific-rim and Asian cuisine.

CCOF California Certified Organic Farmers has been a leading organic certifier since 1973. Their website provides a directory of organic products and services in the state, as well as “Organic News” and information on the certification process. Organic food is produced by farmers who emphasize the use of renewable resources and the conservation of soil and water to enhance environmental quality for future generations. Visit: www.ccof.org

WDQLtd. • 27

vineyards, sharing technical information, winemaking techniques and even declaring when the grapes are ready to be harvested.

Once picked, the grapes are sorted and fermented at the vignerons’ properties under Michel’s close and cautious control.

When fermentation is complete, the wines are racked into carefully selected barrels and delivered to the Tardieu-Laurent domaine in Lourmarin, in the heart of the Luberon, where the wines are aged and blended.

By the time the wines are ready for release, they bear Michel’s unmistakable signature—artisanal cuvées with a newworld style—earning him the endearing title of Haute Négoce.

Defining the Rhône…One Vigneron at a Time First the French gave us haute couture, then haute cuisine, now they have blessed us with an haute négoce. Meet Michel Tardieu, one of the most highly acclaimed négociants in the Rhône. With just a little more than a decade of experience, he has built a faithful following among wine enthusiasts and has earned high praise from critics.

The success of Tardieu-Laurent began with a serendipitous meeting between Michel Tardieu and Dominique Laurent, a Burgundy négociant often referred to as a magician for his skill in finding great wine.

Soon Michel was consulting with restaurants on their wine lists. It was during this time that he met Dominique. Together the two forged a strong bond and with Dom’s support, Michel began his career as négociant.

In 1996, the two launched Tardieu-Laurent Vallée du Rhône Maison de Négoce, which made its inaugural foray into the United States with the 1994 vintage. The rest is, as they say, history.

Michel, who grew up in the Côtes du Luberon amongst a typically large southern French family, developed a love for good food and wine at an early age.

As a young man he joined the family business—manufacturing greenhouses— when he married his childhood sweetheart, Michèle.

Today, all Tardieu-Laurent technical and commercial decisions are entirely in the hands of Michel, who shepherds approximately 17 wines into bottle each year. Two-thirds of Tardieu-Laurent’s production is in the southern Rhône, where Michel has working relationships with 60 growers, including 40 in Châteauneuf-duPape. The remaining wines are produced in the northern Rhône, where Tardieu’s network includes 40 growers.

When his grandfather died, Michel began a career with Conseil Général du Vaucluse as a chauffeur for state dignitaries. During his 16-year stint with the government, his passion for wine grew deeper, developed through the exposure he gained to fine food and wine while on the job.

Michel’s talents have been widely recognized for having secured long-term, hand-shake deals with vignerons who carefully guard the location of their properties. He selects vineyards with 50- to 100-plus-year-old vines. During the course of the year, Michel regularly visits the vignerons and walks their

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Les Becs Fins 2007

Côtes du Rhônes Villages Terroir: Small, round rocks on red soils from the southern Rhône region known as the Gard (from the Gard River which flows into the Rhône) Varietals: 50% Syrah, 50% Grenache Age of the Vines: Grenache – 60 years

Syrah – 20 years Destemmed: 100% Aging: Stainless steel vats Filtration: Bottled without filtration Tasting Notes: Fresh, powerful, fruitforward and easy to appreciate in its youth, this wine expresses its old vine richness.

“Les becs fins” is an expression used in southern France to describe “demanding palates” (literally, “fine beaks”) or persons who love good food, “les gourmets.”

was added in 2005. In spring 2007, two additional blocks were planted to Pinot Noir: Salmon Creek (3.4 acres) and Bodega Ridge (4.2 acres). The southern-facing property is one mile west of Freestone and just four and a half miles from the Pacific Ocean. Owned

by Jack and Kathy Balistreri.

What is the Extreme Sonoma Coast?

The cumbersome Sonoma Coast AVA, the largest of the 13 appellations in Sonoma County, has been unofficially subdivided into the “true” or “real” Sonoma Coast.

Delving further into the true Sonoma Coast, Sonoma Coast Vineyards has identified an area they call the Extreme Sonoma Coast that is perfectly suited for producing distinct cold-climate varietal wines. Located southwest of the Russian River Valley, the Extreme Sonoma Coast stretches around the town of Freestone, a mere 4.5 miles from the cold Pacific Ocean.

within a two-mile radius of the town of Freestone. These locales are complemented by vineyards in the Two Rock area, on the far southwestern reaches of the Sonoma Coast, and by two vineyards, planted to Sauvignon Blanc, due east of Freestone.

Site Selection

Grower-Partner Vineyards

Sonoma Coast Vineyards has sought out the coolest sites in which it is possible for each varietal to fully ripen, with the goal of achieving maximum maturity at the lowest possible sugar levels. Vineyards planted to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are located

Balistreri Family Vineyard: The original four-acre Freestone View Block was planted to a range of Pinot Noir Dijon clones using four by four feet spacing in 1999. The Alessio Block, one acre of Pinot Noir on the east end of the property,

Pacheco Family Vineyard: This consists of 12 acres of Chardonnay Clone 5 and five acres of Pinot Noir Dijon clones planted in 1995 on the upper levels of this long established dairy ranch. The ranch is located in the far southwestern corner of the Sonoma Coast, due east of chilly Tomales Bay. Owned by Jim and Donna Pacheco, who are also the proprietors of Achadinha Goat Cheese Company, considered some of the finest specialty cheese produced.

These sites share similar traits beyond the cool, marine-influenced climate, which include thin, rocky, shallow soils composed of sand and clay with little organic material.

All are planted using high-density spacing and are sustainably farmed.

Steady breezes push the last of the morning fog from Salmon Creek Block, Balistreri Vineyard.

Peterson Vineyard: Three acres of Chardonnay planted to Dijon 95; five acres of Pinot Noir planted to Dijon and Pommard clones. Planted in 1996. Located south of Freestone and east of Highway 1. Owned by Will and Diane Petersen, who celebrated their family’s 100year anniversary living on the 200-acre ranch in 2007.

Koos Family Vineyard: Nearly three acres of Pinot Noir; Dijon clones planted using four by four feet spacing in 2001. Situated west of Cotati on a windswept ridge facing east. Owned by John and Deborah Koos.

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VINEBURG C h a r d o n n ay

2006 Silverado Vineburg Chardonnay

Exceptional

Something Completely Different from Silverado Vineyards From the first barrel tastings, just after crush in 2004, it was clear that the Chardonnay from Silverado’s Vineburg Vineyard was going to be a unique wine.

Filled with bright honeysuckle, lemon and mineral aromas, even at an early stage in its vinification it displayed a rich density across the palate. Vineburg Chardonnay was destined to be a distinctive wine from a distinct site.

Silverado discovered the site—a small, abandoned apple orchard in the western part of Carneros behind the old Vineburg train depot—eight years ago. This was not the typical water-retaining, chalky clay soil of the Carneros hills. Vineburg is located in the wash of an ancient creek bed, a lowvigor site filled with sand and smoothed stone. It offers a rare opportunity to develop a vineyard expressing every nuance of its terroir.

Every aspect was considered in preparing the vineyard: different rootstocks for the richer and poorer soils; high density planting of 1,210 vines per acre; select clones Robert Young, #352, UCDavis 15, Dijon 76, Dijon 95; exposure, wind, drainage, soil depth, mineral content.

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The vineyard also inspired Silverado to change certain aspects in their winemaking practices. Primary among these was the use of small (75-gallon) stainless barrels during fermentation, which allows them to work the lees for richness while keeping all the brightness and nuances that would otherwise get lost in too much vanilla-oak.

Fifty percent of the wine is fermented in stainless barrels, 50 percent in French oak barrels. Batonnage is twice per week for the stainless barrels, once per week for the oak barrels. Thirty percent of the wine goes through malolactic fermentation. The wine is barrel-aged for five months. Production averages just 2,500 cases annually.

The result is a wine with a flinty, mineral nose, good acid structure, layers of texture. The first vintage (2004 Vineburg Chardonnay) was described: “. . .The fruit is extraordinarily ripe and forward, bursting with mango, pear and sautéed banana flavors. What the wine lacks in subtlety, it makes up for in sheer, unadulterated power.”

90 points Wine Enthusiast, April 2006 “The 2005 vintage of this spectacular wine . . . crisp and food-friendly.”

Dan Berger Napa Valley Register, June 11, 2008

“A dramatic wine so stylistically different from most others that it’s hard to describe. Fresh and dried citrus, a minerality in the finish, and crisp, delicate but persistent fruit in the finish.

Almost no malolactic and great acidity.

A don’t-miss wine.”

June 12, 2008

2004 Cabernet Sauvignon, SOLO points “The top cuvee, the 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon SOLO (100% Cabernet Sauvignon), is a classic example of a Stags Leap offering. Elegant but substantial, with notes of spring flowers, blueberries, black currants, and subtle barrique, it cuts a broad swath across the palate, but is light on its feet. Refreshing and delicate despite serious flavor intensity, it can be drunk now or cellared for 12–15 years.”

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A Stags Leap Pioneer Continues to Innovate This summer, Silverado Vineyards released its 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon. This vintage holds special meaning for the venerable Stags Leap winery—it is the 25th vintage of Cabernet produced since the winery’s inception in 1981.

With such a feat, it would be easy for any winery to rest on its laurels, but not Silverado Vineyards. In fact, the winery continues to seek out ways to maintain its momentum as a progressive and dynamic force in the vineyards and winery.

Among the many ways Silverado Vineyards has grown and evolved is by implementing a variety of sustainable practices. Their efforts have not gone unnoticed. In 2007, the winery was recognized by the U.S. House of Representatives for “Excellence in Water Quality” and by the California State Legislature for “Dedication to Environmental Stewardship.”

These honors were for projects they undertook beginning in 2005, which involved working with the California Land Stewardship Institute, the Napa Valley Conservation District and Acorn Soup, a local public school field science program.

The objectives were to reduce erosion along Hopper Creek on Miller Ranch and to restore wetland areas in their Stags Leap Vineyard. The result was a reduction of fine sediment flows into the Napa River, improved water quality and the restoration of steelhead trout and Coho salmon spawning grounds. Both sites have since been certified Fish Friendly Farming.

In the last issue of WDQ, we introduced Silverado Vineyards’ impressive foray into solar power. The winery plugged in 294 kilowatts of pure solar power, reducing their dependence on fossil fuels by nearly 30 percent. This was phase one of a multistep energy-demand-reduction plan that will take several years to complete and will include such measures as installing temperature control devices throughout

the winery as well as changing the lighting, resulting eventually in a 40 percent reduction of energy use.

Additionally, Silverado Vineyards has implemented a range of other green efforts, from organically farming the Double Block in the vineyard next to the winery—which is the heart and soul of SOLO, the winery’s signature Stags Leap District Cabernet Sauvignon—to investing in two hybrid trucks. The latter are so quiet in electrical mode that winemaker Jon Emmerich and crew have been known to sneak up on wild turkeys!

2005 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Vineyard Sources: Stags Leap District Vineyard (54%) The sloping, gravelly soils and sunny exposure of this vineyard helped establish the reputation of Stags Leap District for fine Cabernet Sauvignon.

Mt. George Vineyard (31%) Located east of Napa, Mt. George Vineyard is the site of one of the first grape plantings in the valley in the 19th century. The deep, gravelly soils are derived from volcanic rock and ash, providing depth and structure to Silverado’s wines.

15% from selected Napa vineyards Varietal Composition: 87% Cabernet Sauvignon 8% Merlot 3% Petit Verdot 2% Cabernet Franc Vintage Notes: A wet beginning to the year and continued rainfall well into spring delayed bloom and fruit set. Cool weather throughout summer into September led to concern about ripening the larger than normal crop.

Fog lingered where warm weather would typically prevail to ripen grapes.

Though later than normal, warm days arrived to start harvest in earnest.

Harvest Dates: Sept. 24–Oct. 3 Barrel Aging: Seventeen months of barrel age in 36% new oak, of which 80% was French and 20% was American. Overall blend: 86% French oak, 14% American oak.

Tasting Notes Ripe juicy plum aromas. Medium to full body with a broad pallet. Lively acidity leads to a fruity and persistent finish.

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Certified “Organically Grown”

by Nicoló Mascheroni Stianti In September 2000, we started the conversion to organic farming at Castello di Volpaia, as prescribed by EU directive 2092/91. The conversion consists in applying all that is mandated in the directive, after which we could declare that our products come from organic agriculture. The conversion took three years, and we are now enrolled in the regional register of organic producers.

Organic Certification: Requirements

The EU directive requires that you use only manure and anti-parasitic treatments having a natural origin. All the allowed fertilizers and anti-parasitics are registered and listed in a specific register; products that are not listed (even if derived from natural sources) cannot be used. Some products are admitted only in special situations. Before purchasing and using them, therefore, you must send a communication to the certification authority to get their permission.

The use of manure is strongly limited; to have strong vines, you should limit their size and growing power. The manure has to be natural and must come from organically certified breeding farms to be sure that no medicines or hormones have been given to the animals.

Also, the use of copper and its derivatives, which is very important to combat peronospera (a fungus of the vine) is strongly limited as it is a heavy metal and therefore, even if natural, in high quantities can become polluting.

On top of this, the directive suggests a series of activities to be performed in the field, such as crop rotation (this cannot be done in a vineyard), green manure (this can be done just by using seeds derived from organic farms), the maintenance or introduction of natural antagonists (plants or insects that combat a specific disease or

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Castello di Volpaia, Certified “Organically Grown” continued . . . carrier of disease) and manual care of the plants. These practices we do at Volpaia.

Maintaining Certification: Inspections

Inspections are done periodically by a certification organization recognized at the national level that also has to be certified

by SINCERT, which is the national office for certifying the certificatory . . . a little Italian bureaucracy. We are controlled by Q.C.& I. International Services which is located in Monteriggoini Siena. The organization does inspections about five or six times per year; in each review they verify all the purchase orders of raw materials (to check if we have purchased non-admitted products), the field book on which we have to note all the agricultural operations in the field, and the preparation registry (on which we put all the notes relative to product packing). The organization can also check all fiscal documentation and the mandatory registers of the wine. Afterwards, they proceed to the verification of the warehouse (raw materials, manure, antiparasites, finished products, wine in bulk, wine in bottle). Vineyards, olive groves and fields are visited and controlled to check the operations noted on the field book, and the inspectors can take samples of soil, leaves, wine in bulk and bottled wine to search for any non-admitted substance . . . rather like anti-doping exams!

What is the “Organic Difference”?

Among the first things that come to mind are the many bureaucratic steps required to obtain certification of a practice we were already following. We changed little in our agricultural practices, so I cannot really tell the difference in our vineyards between before and after. I can make a comparison with other properties, where I do not see any lightning bugs (one of the most delicate insects) or bats at night; where there are few bees and butterflies in summer; where whenever the climatic conditions become extreme, the quality of the production drops dramatically; where the age of the vineyards is younger and the number of

vines dying is larger. Organic viticulture definitely demands extra attention to the vineyards in order to anticipate and fight vine diseases, and therefore builds a stronger relationship between man and the land.

Preserving Genetic Differences

Of extreme importance is the fact that we have a collection of Sangiovese clones unique to Volpaia that preserve their genetic differences. Otherwise, in a few years, all the Chianti Classico region would have just copyrighted Sangiovese vines, and you can imagine the trouble! If a disease destroyed one of these copyrighted clones, the risk of losing all Sangiovese and the identity of Chianti Classico is very strong.

Why we chose not to add the word “Organic” to our Label

We think that organic farming should be a personal commitment for every farmer, like a charitable contribution. One usually does not go around with a label advertising his favorite charity. This is a value that each one of us must carry inside and not outside. We don’t practice organic farming for marketing purposes; we’ve always been doing it, because we believe in it.

Commitment to the Environment

For us, organic farming is a commitment that fits within the overall philosophy of Volpaia to preserve and build the best possible overall environment. We constantly restore and protect the village of Volpaia to preserve its historic value; we provide houses for our workers; we preserve the biodiversity of Volpaia (Sangiovese first, but not exclusively); we organize dinners and events to build relationships between the workers in Volpaia; we cultivate the whole property as garden, woods, vineyards and olive groves, taking care of the intrinsic qualities of this special place.

“Environment” for Volpaia does not simply mean “organic”; it is whatever surrounds us: the social environment, cultural environment and historical environment, as well as the natural environment.

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Bordeaux and Burgundy in Tandem at Gainey Vineyard The Gainey family has long held boasting rights for being the first Santa Barbara vintner to grow grapes in both the warm Santa Ynez Valley and cool Sta. Rita Hills regions. Now forward-thinking Gainey Vineyard can claim bragging rights for becoming the only winery to have a winemaker dedicated entirely to each region.

Consulting winemaker and Bordeauxvarietal expert, Jon Engelskirger joined the winemaking team last August just prior to harvest. Jon’s talents will perfectly complement winemaker Kirby Anderson’s Burgundy skills. Owner Dan Gainey explained his reasoning for creating this unique arrangement, “Kirby’s passion has always been for Burgundy varieties. Jon has made other wines but has always felt more strongly about Bordeaux.”

A familiar face in Napa Valley, Jon has extensive experience crafting wines with Bordeaux varieties. His most recent stint was at Turnbull Cellars in Oakville, where his Cabernet and signature Bordeaux blend consistently won praise from critics.

At Gainey, Jon will concentrate on producing the Bordeaux-style wines the winery has in current production, including Sauvignon Blanc and Merlot, as well as Riesling—all grown on the Home Ranch in Santa Ynez. He will also develop the winery’s first Cabernet Sauvignon program, which will begin with the 2008 vintage from grapes planted in 2006.

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A new addition to the Home Ranch, the Cabernet section is planted on one of the vineyard’s south-facing hillsides using highdensity spacing and vines low to the ground to take advantage of radiant heat stored in the Monterey shale that lies beneath a layer of rich, dark loamy clay soil.

A few miles west, Kirby, who began making wine at Gainey more than a decade ago, will devote his attention to producing Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Syrah grown in the winery’s Sta. Rita Hills vineyards, including Evan’s Ranch and a yet-to-benamed new vineyard.

Evan’s Ranch, a 120-acre site, has the unique topography of a north-facing vineyard planted on a steep hillside carved into three distinct areas. It is planted to 11 Chardonnay clones, 10 Pinot Noir clones, and four Syrah clones. The combination of topography, exposure, soils and clones brings rich, complex flavors to the fruit.

Kirby Anderson, winemaker and Burgundy expert, will concentrate on Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Syrah at Gainey Vineyard.

The newest addition to Gainey Vineyard’s holdings in Sta. Rita Hills is a 42-acre site that will be planted in the fall to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Surrounded by BrewerClifton, Melville and Babcock vineyards, this new site will be planted using highdensity spacing to take advantage of the primarily Elder series soil (sand and loam) and the cool maritime climate.

With both programs up and running under the guidance of Jon and Kirby, Gainey will undoubtedly continue to gain acclaim for all of its delicious wines.

Jon Engelskirger, consulting winemaker, will focus on Bordeaux varietals, as well as Riesling, and develop Gainey’s first Cabernet Sauvignon program this year. Jon is an organic gardener and drives a SmartCar to work.

Preserving the Land For Dan Gainey, sustainable farming extends beyond his property line. It also sometimes means sacrifice, as illustrated by his recent decision to set aside long-made plans to build a winemaking facility on the scenic Evan’s Ranch in order to preserve a neighboring property for the good of his community. Following is a description of how this decision was made, in Dan’s own words:

“My family has been farming in the Santa Ynez Valley of Santa Barbara County since 1962. In addition to our 150 acres of grapevines, divided between our Home and Evan’s ranches, we graze 200–300 head of grass-fed cattle, stable Arabian horses and grow flowers, alfalfa, wheat and a wide variety of fruits and vegetables.

“For years, we have expressed our love and respect for this bountiful land— the last pristine valley in this part of southern California—by using organic and sustainable farming practices to cultivate our crops and by preserving oak trees, conserving water and creating and maintaining riparian habitats and wildlife corridors. Recently, we had an opportunity to do more.

“Not long ago, a 65-acre property close to our Home Ranch in the eastern end of the Santa Ynez Valley was targeted for development, which would have

drastically altered its character and disrupted the placid, pastoral character of Santa Ynez Valley. To prevent this from happening, Gainey Vineyard led a group of valley residents and farmers in purchasing the property, which we are donating to the Santa Ynez Valley Preserve, a conservation land trust that will maintain it in perpetuity as agricultural land. Alfalfa and 300 different types of fruits and vegetables, including many heirloom tomato varieties, will be cultivated on 45 acres, while 20 acres will be maintained as riparian habitat.

“Acquiring this land necessitated a major investment on the winery’s part, which, regrettably, will delay construction of a tasting facility and barrel aging caves at Evan’s Ranch, a project many of you have been following with interest.

This was a big sacrifice for us to make, but one we felt was justified given the stakes.

“All of us at Gainey Vineyard feel deeply gratified to help preserve the wonderful environment of the Santa Ynez Valley.

The next time you visit the valley and soak in its gorgeous landscape, I hope you’ll join me in saying a blessing for this most beautiful and beneficent of lands.”

Dan Gainey

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Photo: Bruce Fleming

THE STORY OF THE JACK L. DAVIES NAPA VALLEY AGRICULTURAL LAND PRESERVATION FUND

The Napa Valley as it is today was formed by a group of vintners with vision.

Among them was Schramsberg founder Jack L. Davies, who was an early proponent of preserving the agricultural resources of this glorious place.

In 1968, Jack Davies was instrumental in the formation of the Napa Valley Agricultural Preserve. Forty years later, the nation’s first agricultural preserve program is thriving, with much thanks to individuals who banded together to create special funds to maintain it, including the Jack L. Davies Ag Fund.

Officially established in 2003, the roots of the Jack L. Davies Ag Fund reach back more than 25 years, through the groundwork of the three distinctive groups that eventually came together to form the organization.

The Jack L. Davies Fund was started in 1998 as a perpetual memorial to the Davies’ family patriarch. A dedicated openspace advocate, Davies and his wife, Jamie, raised a family and a business, the historic Schramsberg Vineyards, on a fabled tract of land tucked into the eastern face of Diamond Mountain in Calistoga. The fund was created to continue his legacy of supporting agricultural conservation in the Napa Valley.

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Prior to the start of the Jack L. Davies Fund, the Napa Valley Foundation was founded in 1980 by citizens concerned with the direction of local development.

Established to encourage awareness and understanding of agriculture and related activities as the best primary use of land in Napa County, the membership organization advocated for concentration of urban uses within the county’s existing cities and urban areas. The foundation pursued its mission to protect the smalltown, rural lifestyle which characterizes the Napa Valley by implementing educational programs and conducting public forums on key development issues facing the Valley.

In 1982, grape growers Alex Phillips, Tom May, Louis Martini, Joseph Phelps, Russ Eichner and Ron Wicker banded together to create the Napa Valley Ag Land Preservation Fund. It sought to galvanize the work of a small group of local residents committed to agricultural land preservation.

For two decades it funded a wide range of educational and research projects, retaining both a land use expert and an attorney to evaluate the county’s General Plan in order to ensure agricultural land preservation and sponsoring an educational water forum, along with numerous other small endeavors designed to support the work of local schools, museums and organizations such as the Napa County Land Trust.

Although each organization operated successfully as an independent entity, the history of the Napa Valley clearly indicates the agricultural community is best served by a spirit of camaraderie, and to this end the three organizations sought to maximize their efforts by joining resources under a single mantle. In 2003, recognizing a mutual commitment to preserving the agricultural lands and heritage that are fundamental to Napa County’s rural character, the Jack L. Davies Fund, the Napa Valley Foundation and the Napa Valley Agricultural Land Preservation Fund united to create the Jack L. Davies Ag Fund.

Today, the Jack L. Davies Ag Fund is seeking to create a $500,000 endowment to support a perpetual, annual program of micro-grants focused on research and educational outreach. Guided by a volunteer board of directors, the fund is dedicated to a mission of preserving and protecting agricultural land in the Napa Valley. It operates under the premise that only an educated electorate can protect the integrity of the land.

While this extraordinary program may not be visible to those lucky individuals enjoying a bottle of Schramsberg sparkling wine or J. Davies Cabernet, it has had a powerful impact on Schramsberg Vineyards and the Napa Valley as a whole.

Dunaweal Vineyard and Tenma Vineyard Two jewels in the crown of Clos Pegase Estate change their names

by Shaun Richardson, Winemaker The Clos Pegase estate, totaling 455 acres of prime Napa Valley land, consists of four distinct parcels in two AVAs: Mitsuko’s, 365 acres in Carneros; Home, 26 acres opposite the winery on Dunaweal Lane in Calistoga; Applebone, 24 acres on the winery site; and Palisades, 40 acres northwest of the winery, also in Calistoga.

Of course, that put us in a quandary— vineyards are our children at Clos Pegase, and the naming of children is a subject of great thought and debate. A vineyard name represents the concept and essence of the vineyard. Mitsuko’s Vineyard was simple: The 365-acre parcel was a gift from Jan to Mitsuko Shrem on Valentine’s Day—one acre for each day of the year that he loves her. The Palisades Vineyard was so named, when purchased, after the Palisades range on the northeast side of the Napa Valley in Calistoga. The Home Ranch is near

Cabernet Sauvignon harvest from Palisades Vineyard—now “Tenma,” the Japanese word for “Pegasus, the Horse of Heaven”—in Calistoga

the site Jan and Mitsuko Shrem’s home, off Dunaweal Lane. Applebone is named for the Mark di Suvero (born Marco Polo di Suvero in Shanghai, China, American abstract expressionist sculptor) sculpture which adorns the western edge of the vineyard, a powerful work befitting the powerful Cabernet Sauvignons that come from the site.

Of the changes, renaming Home Ranch to DUNAWEAL VINEYARD was the simplest: so named for our address on Dunaweal Lane, a unique site, a unique part of Calistoga, producing unique wines, expressive of their special terroir.

far northeastern corner of the Napa Valley.

An ideal site within the Calistoga AVA, it represents a subtly cooler microclimate, receiving more fog than nearby Applebone and Dunaweal due to the influence of the Russian River gap. This unique, stony terrain produces some of the finest Cabernet Sauvignon in the entire valley, with superb aromatics and wonderfully ripe fruit flavors.

Palisades Vineyard presented a greater challenge. An austere site, it is an alluvial fan spilling out of Jericho Canyon in the

Henceforth the Palisades Vineyard will be know as TENMA VINEYARD. “Tenma” is the Japanese word for “Pegasus, the Horse of Heaven.” We look forward to ever increasing quality from this site with the efforts of Paul Hobbs and Tom Prentice, coupled with the unwavering commitment of the entire winery to building wines of the greatest potential from all of our estate.

“Applebone” by Mark di Suvero

Bloom time in the Tenma Vineyard

Photo: Shaun Richardson

Such a dramatic change as a vineyard renaming must have a reason, and we admit that the prompting was both amusing and surprising. For many years we have referred to our ‘Home Ranch’ on our back labels as the source of Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc that add depth and complexity to our Cabernets. Alas, as we discovered, the name is trademarked by another winery, and they very politely wrote us and requested that we stop using the name, to which we shall certainly oblige. While our thoughts were turned to the idea of renaming one of our vineyards, we considered the name ‘Palisades,’ our premier Cabernet Sauvignon vineyard. Palisades has been the focus of enormous amounts of our energy over the past three years, and with the upcoming 2006 and 2007 vintages, we expect to reshape opinions about Clos Pegase Cabernet Sauvignon. A new name was called for to make a bold statement about the renewed vision of Clos Pegase.

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Napa Pioneer Stays the Steady Course “We are sustainable farmers. Our 130-yearold vineyard proves it.”

This was Steve Burgess’s response when he was recently asked about his family winery’s sustainable practices. Simply put, and yet he makes an important statement.

Located on the northeastern reaches of Howell Mountain, the historic Ink Grade Vineyard offers a glimpse into what life was like in Napa Valley in the 1960s and 70s—quiet and peaceful. During daylight, the vineyard activity is what you would expect—pruning in winter, leaf-pulling in spring, fruit thinning in summer and grape harvesting in the fall. Nonetheless, life on this hillside moves at a different pace and at night it’s so quiet, coyotes miles away sound as though they’re just a few feet from us.

This humble setting provides a harmonious backdrop for growing the Syrah, Petite Sirah, Petit Verdot and Malbec Tom Burgess planted in Tom Burgess digs in the rich 1987, fifteen chocolate-brown soil to create years after a trench to retain water from he acquired spring rains at the base of their 100-year-old olive trees. the Ranch Vineyard surrounding his hillside cellar, where Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc are planted. In the ensuing time, the Burgess family has farmed primarily using organic practices. This has perpetuated the health and well-being of the vineyard and its soil, creating sustainability that will see this vineyard into the next millennium.

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The Ink Grade Vineyard, nestled against the eastern side of Howell Mountain, is one of Burgess Cellars’ four estate vineyards. The others are Ranch Vineyard, on the western slopes of Howell Mountain surrounding the winery, Yountville Vineyard in Oak Knoll District and Ilona Vineyard.

And it’s not just grapevines the family is stewarding. Tom and his two sons, Steven and Jim, have also been nurturing 100-plus-year-old olive trees in this same vineyard for almost 20 years.

The trees were planted in the late 1800s to early 1900s. One hundred years later, by the 1980s, they had become overgrown, tall and weak. In the subsequent 20 years, the Burgess father-and-son team has rejuvenated the trees through a multi-stage restoration process. The effect has given new life to the landscape, which evokes Tuscany for many, but for the Burgess family it’s the same vineyard they’ve farmed and enjoyed for a very long time.

BURGESS CELLARS INK GRADE VINEYARD Eastern Howell Mountain Developed in 1987 Elevation: 1,200 feet Soil characteristics: Butte stony loam Total surface area: 32 acres Varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon 15.5 acres

Syrah 7 acres

Petite Sirah 2.5 acres

Petit Verdot 5 acres

Malbec 2 acres

The eastern side of Howell Mountain is still wild country. At night, one can hear a coyote 20 miles away and think it’s just off in the bushes. Check out the size of the cat (meaning cougar) print next to Burgess sales manager Jim Callahan’s foot!

“Best of The Best” California Red Blends

PPPPP

“Blending is an art form, as these wines ably demonstrate.”

“Wines of extraordinary character and quality—in a class by themselves”

2005 Girard Artistry

Now Open: Girard Winery’s new tasting room in Yountville, Napa Valley Girard Winery has opened a classy new For the first time in Girard’s 30-plus-year tasting room in the center of Yountville. history, library and limited release wines Strikingly, an inside wall, part of the ceiling will be available to the public. Private and bar are faced with reclaimed white gourmet wine and food tastings can be barn wood from Missouri, yet the overall arranged by reservation on-line: www. impression is hardly rustic; mosaic glass tiles, girardwinery.com or by calling 707-968cedar flooring, modern furnishings give a 9297, ext. #1. The tasting room is open daily from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. feeling of airy, elegant chic to the interior.

(Napa Valley) ~ one of the 13 best wines in its class (California red blends) blind-tasted over the past six months “54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Cabernet Franc, 14% Petit Verdot, 9% Malbec, 1% Merlot. Big, deep, rich, firm, solid, muscular, black fruit, earth and coffee flavors.”

5-Star California Red Blends “2005 Napa Valley Artistry is a blend of all five Bordeaux varieties. Red fruit flavors from cherries to currants are complemented by hints of fine tobacco. A well structured wine with mature tannins and rich, velvety finish.”

“Patrick Roney’s Vision”

by Eleanor and Ray Heald

Summer 2008

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Introducing: Windsor sonoma —a new line of premium wines produced by the highly regarded Girard Winery team of vintner Pat Roney and winemaker Marco DiGiulio. Roney has reshaped Girard by sourcing long-term contracts with prime vineyard sites, primarily within the Napa Valley. DiGiulio has taken Girard wines to the highest quality level and last year was named “one of Napa’s leading wine consultants” by the Wine Spectator. More recently, through his acquisition of Sonoma Coast Vineyards, Roney has added winemaker and Pinot Noir specialist Anthony Austin to his all-star winemaking team that will take Windsor Sonoma into a bright future.

Legendary horticulturist Luther Burbank called Sonoma County “the chosen spot of all the earth as far as nature is concerned.”

Each of Sonoma County’s 13 AVAs offers a distinct combination of soils and

microclimates. Windsor Sonoma’s goal is to produce classic varietal interpretations matched with individual terroir. Sourcing Cabernet Sauvignon exclusively from the Alexander Valley, Zinfandel from Dry Creek Valley and Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir from the Russian River Valley, Roney has identified the appellations best suited to each varietal. Each Windsor Sonoma wine expresses varietal character and complexity true to its terroir.

A sleek new state-of-the-art winery designed by acclaimed architect Juan Carlos Fernandez is now under construction on Westside Road, south of Healdsburg and just north of neighbors Williams Selyem and Rochioli. The new winery will be integrated within the 40-acre Russian River Valley estate vineyard of Windsor Sonoma, and will accommodate state-of-theart, small-lot winemaking.

This new Sonoma landmark is scheduled for completion in time for the 2009 harvest.

Artist’s rendering of Windsor Sonoma’s new winery

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Ltd.

Tasting Highlights: Napa Cabernet “The 2005 vintage of Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignons looks better than anticipated”

by James Laube — Posted July 14, 2008

The top 13 Napa Valley 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon wines selected by the Wine Spectator included: “The J. Davies, from the winery’s Diamond Mountain property, is the best yet from this property.”

J. DAVIES Cabernet Sauvignon Diamond Mountain District 2005 Score: 91 “Ripe and fleshy, with a zesty core of red and black cherry, currant and cranberry notes that are pure and focused, showing a dusty, minerally edge and ending with nicely structured tannins.

Tempting now. Decant. Best from 2010 through 2017. 1,826 cases made.” —J.L.

GIRARD Cabernet Sauvignon Diamond Mountain District 2005 Score: 91 “Offers a smooth, rich core of earthy currant, wild berry, mineral and sage along with the structure, focus, concentration and depth to merit your attention, ending with a long, layered, complex finish. Best from 2011 through 2018.” —J.L.

2005 Cabernet Sauvignon The Story: J. Davies is produced by the Davies family of Schramsberg Vineyards from their estate vineyards on Diamond Mountain.

The wine is named in memory of Jack Davies, founder, with his late wife, Jamie Davies, of Schramsberg Vineyards and father of winemaker/president and CEO Hugh Davies. This is the fifth vintage of J. Davies and shows the structure and concentration characteristic of Diamond Mountain fruit.

The Vineyards: The vineyard blocks, totaling 42 acres, are laid out in three isolated pockets ranging from approximately 500 to 1,000 feet in elevation.

They include the two Schram sections, Napa Valley’s first hillside vineyards, originally established in 1862 by Jacob Schram. The third piece is on the neighboring McEachran parcel, which was first planted by Colin McEachran in 1878 and was purchased

by Schramsberg Vineyards in 1985. These are the southernmost vineyards in the Diamond Mountain District AVA. Flanked by two cool creek canyons and surrounded by dense coniferous and deciduous forests, the vines here produce late-ripening, richly concentrated fruit with average yields of just two tons per acre.

The Wine: Aromas of black cherry and bramble-berry combine with sweet tobacco, mulled spice and cassia bark. Rich volume, full extraction and substantial tannin are evident on the palate. The 2005 vintage is a blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Malbec and 8% Petit Verdot, aged in French oak for 22 months.

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Uniquely • Tokaji Nothing but the facts on Royal Tokaji, rivers, noble rot, Sauternes and other obscure phenomena!

Why is Tokaj ideally situated for the growth of botrytis?

• When the two rivers, Bodrog and Tisza, meet near the village of Tokaj in the foggy autumn mornings, mist rises at the convergence. The narrow and deep Bodrog is cooler, while the wide and shallow Tisza is warmer, so when they join together, the result is the mystical mist over Tokaj. This mist glides around the Tokaj Hill to cover the region’s most important vineyards.

What conditions lead to noble rot?

• Fungus needs humidity to grow.

Tokaj has very extreme weather, with freezing winters and very hot, humid summers. The humid weather throughout summer and fall encourages the growth of botrytis or noble rot.

• Noble rot needs dew in the morning on the grapes—moist conditions, misty, humid air. Then it needs sunshine during the day. 10–14 days under these ideal conditions is best for noble rot to occur.

• Botrytis can only affect berries of a certain age. By the time berries are fully ripe in October and November, the grape skin loses its resistance against botrytis, leaving it vulnerable to mold. Botrytis penetrates into berries, seeking nutrients such as sugar and tartaric acid. The fungus eats some of these compounds, but mainly the sugars and acids become more concentrated by the sun. Water starts evaporating from these berries because botrytis makes the grape skin semi-permeable.

What are the differences between the Tokaj and Sauternes wine regions?

• The main vinous difference is that Tokaji wines have double the acidity levels and three to four percent less alcohol.

This gives Tokaji wines an uplifting, noncloying effect, with a fruit/alcohol ratio that is much healthier.

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Botrytis affected grapes in Tokaj

• In Sauternes, rainfall and humidity are higher, so they seldom have the risk of no botrytis development, as in Tokaj. In fact, Sauternes runs the risk of having too much fungus on the grapes.

Tokaj vs. Sauternes • Tokaji from Hungary was the first wine knowingly made from botrytized grapes, perhaps two centuries before Sauternes.

• Sauternes have a higher risk of volatile acidity due to more rain and less sunshine during the harvest season. Fungus produces some VA during its development.

In ideal conditions, the shriveling takes 14 (max. 21) days. When there is too much rain, shriveling of grapes takes far longer; therefore, VA goes much higher.

• Combination of grape varieties is another key difference: approximately 60– 75% Furmint (late-ripening, thin-skinned, sharp-tasting) in Tokaji wine, with 10–35% Hárslevelü (rich in sugar and aroma) and 5–10% Yellow Muscat. Sauternes is about 80–85% Semillon and 15–20% Sauvignon Blanc and/or Muscadelle.

• The other main difference: There are two separate fermentations in the production of Tokaji wines: 1) dry white Furmint 2) aszú fermentation. Royal Tokaji wines enjoy two fermentations, thus enabling the resulting wines to have more structure and weight than most of their Sauternes counterparts. (It is a fact that some Tokaji producers—not Royal Tokaji

—use only one fermentation; i.e., they add the aszú paste/pulp to white must before it has fully fermented, thus producing a more floral, Sauternes-like wine.)

• Cellars: In Tokaj they are narrow, underground passages whose walls and ceiling are covered with a particular mold (cladosporium cellare) that definitely affects the character of the wine during its long maturation.

• Terroir: volcanic, clay and loess in Tokaj. Sauternes has varying terroir, based on the chateau’s location. Tokaj is like Burgundy (i.e., classification belongs to the designated vineyard); Sauternes is like Bordeaux (i.e., classification belongs to the estate and can cover many different vineyards, not all adjacent to each other).

Obscure Tokaji winemaking factoids: • You don’t have to have botrytized grapes to make aszú wine. Berries can simply be shriveled by the sun. The reality is that all producers make aszú wines with botrytis grapes (1999) and non-botrytis grapes (2000 vintage), but Royal Tokaji is in all likelihood more selective than its competitors; Royal Tokaji will only produce aszú wines with a minimum of 5 puttonyos (120 grams sugar per liter) and simply does not make a vintage with lower sugar levels.

• Another difference at Royal Tokaji is quality control. It will only use first and second class aszú berries, while others will use third class as well.

Domaine de l a Romanée- Conti Nicolas Jacob – Vineyard Manager – Integrates Biodynamic Viticulture with Traditional Tasks

An Interview with Nicolas Jacob at the Domaine Born into a family of viticulturalists in Savigny-lès-Beaune, I have always been close to the land. So it was natural for me to study viticulture: • Three years at the University of Dijon in biology-physiology-agronomy, from 1997– 2000 • Three years at the École Nationale d’Ingénieurs des Travaux Agricoles in Bordeaux (National School of Engineers in Agricultural Work) • One year at the Jules Guyot Institute in Dijon to earn a National Diploma of Oenology Internships during my studies gave me the opportunity to learn different approaches to viticulture and also to participate in several wine-growing jobs in France (Burgundy and Bordeaux) as well as in Italy.

In brief, my way of understanding viticulture is as follows: Try to intervene at the perfect moment (phenologic stage or stage of plant development), taking into account all together the parameters that constitute terroir. These are: • Meteorology (weather, atmosphere, etc.)

• Grape variety • Soil type • Pressure of disease and devastation • Lunar cycle • And obviously, man Biodynamic farming, in my opinion, is only a complement to the well-being of soils, vines, the environment and man.

The difficulty lies in including biodynamic farming in the midst of traditional manual and mechanized tasks.

Sébastien Denis uses horse-drawn cultivation at the Domaine to prevent compression of the soil.

A Dynamic Estate What do you do when you are 25 years old and take the reigns of one of Burgundy’s most respected domaines? If you are Erwan Faiveley, you decide to embrace your family legacy and in the process, you make Burgundy your oyster.

In the few short years since Erwan replaced his father, François, as the director of Domaine Faiveley, he has implemented a bevy of changes that have quickly made an impact. Bruce Sanderson of the “Wine Spectator” recently summed up Erwan’s actions as, “With the addition of Bernard Hervet to the Maison Faiveley team, Erwan Faiveley is fine-tuning the range and the winemaking.”

Among the range of wines being added are four made from grapes grown in the vineyards of Domaine MatrotWittersheim. The addition of these exemplary vineyards offers a wonderful balance to the domaine’s portfolio, which has always been keenly focused on Côte de Nuits grand cru and premier cru red wines.

Wines will be produced from four distinct vineyards. The first, Meursault 1er Cru Blagny vineyard, is situated above the village, right below the forest, creating a cool climate, ultimately resulting in a wine with deep similarities to Corton Charlemagne.

Blagny 1er Cru La Pièce Sous le Bois shares the same vineyards as Meursault-Blagny, only it is planted to Pinot Noir rather than Chardonnay. The cool climate is expressed in the wine’s soft tannins and complexity.

The Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes parcel is situated directly below Clos de Perrières vineyard, considered one of the finest in Meursault. The finished wine has generous aromas and flavors with an unmistakable mineral essence. And, Volnay 1er Cru Santenots is unparalleled. Considered the best premier cru in Volnay, many argue it should be reclassified as a grand cru.

Ensuring that each of these new wines will receive the utmost care, a 19th-century cellar, located within Faiveley’s historical cellars in Nuits-Saint-Georges, will be renovated and especially dedicated to these white wines. Erwan explains the focus on these wines: “Because of these investments, I am very confident that we will now be considered a very serious white wine producer in Burgundy as well.”

In addition to the wines from MatrotWittersheim, Domaine Faiveley also acquired Domaine Monnot in PulignyMontrachet, which includes vineyards in the following appellations: Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru; Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru; Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

MONOPOLES OF DOMAINE FAIVELEY Mercurey “Clos Rochette” Mercurey “Clos Rond” Mercurey “La Framboisière” Mercurey “Les Mauvarennes” Mercurey “Clos des Myglands” Premier Cru Beaune “Clos de l’Ecu” Premier Cru Gevrey-Chambertin “Clos des Issarts” Premier Cru Corton “Clos des Cortons-Faiveley” Grand Cru A monopole is a Burgundian term for a specific vineyard site or climat wholly owned by one domaine. Domaine Faiveley owns eight monopoles, an impressive collection of fine vineyards in the Côte de Beaune and Côte Chalonnaise. All are farmed using lutte raisonnée sustainable viticultural practices.

Erwan Faiveley (right), Chairman of Domaine Faiveley, does not hesitate to plunge in and help sort the Pinot Noir harvest from Musigny.

Folatières; Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Referts; Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru La Garenne; Puligny-Montrachet. These investments in vineyards demonstrate the Faiveley family’s commitment in the Côte de Beaune and represent a unique opportunity, as transactions in Puligny-Montrachet grand cru vineyards are very uncommon.

Coupled with the domaine’s previous holdings and its recent acquisitions is also a serious investment made in the winery.

Numerous changes have been made, including adding a conveyor belt to sort the grapes more effectively, destemming 100 percent of the grapes (except in a hot vintage), adding new oak tanks into production and fitting older tanks with temperature-control devices. Also a stainless-steel tank basket press has been installed, and a new cooper was selected to provide barrels. Additionally, the wines are aged in barrel for less time, allowing the fruit to shine through.

The sum of all of these parts—in the vineyards and in the winery—is a Burgundy powerhouse being built by Erwan before he even turns 30.

WDQLtd. • 45

Celebrating 30 Years!

In 2008, Wilson Daniels Ltd. celebrates 30 years in the fine wine business. Over all this time, our vision—as originated by Win Wilson and Jack Daniels in 1978—has never faltered: Focus on the very best terroir from the finest wine growing regions in the world, specialize in family-owned and -operated ultra-premium wineries, ensure that all wines are shipped and stored responsibly, offer our products only through the finest accounts.

Quality will always prevail!

Historical perspective: 1978 - Win Wilson and Jack Daniels found Wilson Daniels Ltd. (WDL) with Cuvaison and Chappellet as core brands; portfolio grows over next two years to a dozen brands 1979 - Domaine de la Romanée-Conti joins WDL 1980 - TempTrol, our environmentally controlled warehouse, opens 1981 - Silverado Vineyards joins WDL 1989 - Kumeu River becomes first New Zealand property to join WDL 1990 - Domaine Marc Kreydenweiss becomes first Alsatian property to join WDL 1993 - Champagne Salon and Champagne Delamotte are first Champagne properties to join WDL 1993 - Clos Pegase Winery joins WDL 1994 - Royal Tokaji Wine Company from Hungary joins WDL 1995 - Domaine Faiveley joins WDL, strengthening its growing Burgundy portfolio 1996 - Ponzi Vineyards and Schramsberg Vineyards join WDL’s portfolio of domestic properties 1996 - Tenimenti Angelini, with three Tuscan wineries, joins WDL portfolio 1997 - Underwood family makes long-term investment in Wilson Daniels Ltd. 1999 - Domaine Leflaive and New Zealand’s Felton Road join WDL 2000 - WDL moves to new office building adjacent to TempTrol warehouse 2002 - Gainey Vineyard from Santa Barbara joins WDL 2003 - Wilson Daniels Ltd. celebrates 25th anniversary 2003 - Domaine Pierre Morey and Morey-Blanc join WDL 2003 - Girard Winery and WillaKenzie Estate join WDL 2004 - Australia’s Grant Burge Wines joins WDL 2004 - J. Davies and Burgess Cellars join WDL portfolio 2005 - Sauvignon Republic launches new venture as part of WDL portfolio 2006 - Gundlach Bundschu joins WDL domestic portfolio 2007 - Sonoma Coast Vineyards and Windsor Sonoma join WDL 2007 - Castello di Volpaia in Italy’s Chianti Classico region joins WDL 2008 - Domaine Philippe & Vincent Jaboulet becomes first northern Rhône property to join WDL 2008 - Marchese Lodovico Antinori’s Tenuta di Biserno and Mount Nelson join WDL 2008 - Tardieu-Laurent joins WDL portfolio 2008 - Wilson Daniels Ltd. celebrates 30 years of representing the world’s fine wine estates 2009 - Our portfolio will continue to grow with exceptional surprises on the horizon

46 • WDQLtd.

News from Wilson Daniels Ltd. Finally!

This fall you can watch our import suppliers tell their own stories, while vineyard, winery and cellar scenes glide past from Tokaj, Alsace, Burgundy, Champagne and the Rhône Valley. Please visit: www. wilsondanielsfilms.com to sign up and receive film premier announcements via email. Look for film links on our website: www.wilsondaniels.com

A Sheltered Bus Stop in St. Helena In 2005, Wilson Daniels Ltd. authorized funds for the construction of a shelter for bus stop #10 on Highway 29, located in front of the St. Helena High School and across from our office. Kevin Groom, our logistics specialist, voluntarily took on the most difficult part of the project—getting permission from the various bureaucracies to have the shelter built. You might think it would be easy, but it took three persistent years before the powers-that-be finally all agreed, and the City of St. Helena laid the foundation and put the shelter together. It even has solar-powered lighting! Yeah, Kev!

Documentary Films Debut at www.wilsondanielsfilms.com

Wilson Daniels Ltd. Van and Car Pooling from Napa

Kevin Groom in the bus shelter that Wilson Daniels donated to the people of Napa Valley

It’s amazing how fast a good idea catches on!

Wilson Daniels’ white van now makes daily runs between Napa and St. Helena filled with our environmentally-conscious employees (yes, they are saving $$$, too). Those who don’t make the weekly van pool have set up a car pool. Our parking lot looks empty!

Wilson Daniels Ltd. sales and marketing team at our annual sales meeting in the Napa Valley, January 2008: (first row, left to right) Andy Fromm (President and COO), Lisa Morse, Steven McKenzie, Renee Hamilton, Michael Burton, Anju Coleman-Nakai, Shannon Halikas; (second row) Don Cain (VP of Finance), Brent Lauritsen, Kathy Perrelli, Wayne Raborn, Rik Steere, Julianna Beard, Christina Miller, Greg Peebles, Steve Bell; (third row) Olivier Portet, George Sparks, Stephanie Skiptunis, Alan Cohen, Tracy Cervellone; (fourth row) Gib Rockwood, Lori Narlock, Brian Lynch, Joe Bogorad, Paul Englert, Nick Demas, Jeff Marston, Roger Blottenberger; (fifth row) Linda Torbica, Rick Durette, Quincy Selbach, Tom Dillione, Jim Mauceri, Edna Bronson (Missing: Sue Kibbe, photographer)

WDQLtd. • 47

W i l s o n D a n i e l s Lt d . P o r t f o l i o American Wine Estates

imported Wine Estates

CALIFORNIA: NAPA VALLEY

CALIFORNIA: SONOMA Valley

AUSTRALIA: BAROSSA

Cabernet Sauvignon, Estate ** Cabernet Sauvignon, Library Release Enveiere: Red Meritage Merlot, Estate Syrah, Estate

Cabernet Sauvignon, Rhinefarm Vineyard Chardonnay, Rhinefarm Vineyard Gewürztraminer, Rhinefarm Vineyard Merlot, Rhinefarm Vineyard Mountain Cuvée, Rhinefarm Vineyard Pinot Noir, Rhinefarm Vineyard Block 13 Cabernet Sauvignon

10-Year-Old Tawny Port Balthasar: Shiraz/Viognier Barossa Vines Chardonnay

Barossa Vines Shiraz Benchmark Chardonnay Benchmark Shiraz

Filsell Shiraz Meshach Shiraz Miamba Shiraz

Shadrach Cabernet Sauvignon

The Holy Trinity: Grenache/Shiraz/Mourvèdre

GUNDLACH BUNDSCHU

BURGESS CELLARS

Clos Pegase Winery

Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon, Palisades Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Hommage Chardonnay, Mitsuko’s Vineyard, Carneros Chardonnay, Hommage, Carneros Merlot, Mitsuko’s Vineyard, Carneros

Pinot Noir, Mitsuko’s Vineyard, Carneros Sauvignon Blanc, Mitsuko’s Vineyard, Carneros

GIRARD WINERY

Artistry: Red Blend ** Cabernet Franc *** Cabernet Sauvignon, Diamond Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, Pritchard Hill Estate Chardonnay, Russian River Valley Petite Sirah Sauvignon Blanc Zinfandel, Old Vine

Ilona

GRANT Burge Wines

SONOMA COAST

SONOMA COAST VINEYARDS Chardonnay Pinot Noir Pinot Noir, Balistreri Vineyard Pinot Noir, Freestone Hills Pinot Noir, Petersen Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc Syrah

NEW ZEALAND: Kumeu KUMEU RIVER

Chardonnay, Estate Chardonnay, Maté’s Vineyard Chardonay, Coddington Chardonnay, Hunting Hill Village Chardonnay Sauvignon Blanc Pinot Gris

SONOMA COUNTY WINDSOR SONOMA Cabernet Sauvignon Chardonnay Pinot Noir Sauvignon Blanc Zinfandel

NEW ZEALAND: MARLBOROUGH

Red Meritage

J. Davies

Cabernet Sauvignon **

Schramsberg VINEYARDS

california new zealand SOUTH AFRICA

Blanc de Blancs */** Blanc de Noirs

Brut Rosé Crémant Demi-sec J. Schram ** J. Schram Rosé Mirabelle Brut, Non-Vintage Mirabelle Brut Rosé, Non-Vintage Reserve **

SAUVIGNON REPUBLIC

Silverado Vineyards

Ponzi VINEYARDS

Sauvignon Blanc

Sauvignon Blanc, Potter Valley, California Sauvignon Blanc, Russian River Valley, California Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, Stellenbosch, South Africa

Oregon: Willamette Valley

Cabernet Sauvignon * Cabernet Sauvignon, Limited Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, SOLO, Stags Leap District Chardonnay Chardonnay, Vineburg, Carneros Merlot Sangiovese Sauvignon Blanc, Miller Ranch *

CALIFORNIA: Santa Barbara County Gainey VINEYARD

MOUNT NELSON

Chardonnay, Sta. Rita Hills Merlot, Santa Ynez Valley Pinot Noir, Sta. Rita Hills Riesling, Santa Ynez Valley Sauvignon Blanc, Santa Ynez Valley Chardonnay, Limited Selection, Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir, Limited Selection, Sta. Rita Hills Sauvignon Blanc, Limited Selection, Santa Ynez Valley

Arneis Chardonnay, Reserve Pinot Blanc Pinot Gris Pinot Noir Pinot Noir, Abetina Vineyard *** Pinot Noir, Reserve Pinot Noir, Tavola

FELTON ROAD

Block 3 Pinot Noir Block 5 Pinot Noir Block 6 Chardonnay Chardonnay, Central Otago Pinot Noir, Central Otago Pinot Noir, Calvert Vineyard Pinot Noir, Cornish Point Riesling

SPAIN: PRIORAT CELLERS MELIS

Elix de Melis Priorat DOQ Melis Priorat DOQ

WillaKenzie Estate Gamay Noir Pinot Blanc

Pinot Gris *

Pinot Meunier Pinot Noir, Pierre Léon Pinot Noir, Aliette Pinot Noir, Emery Pinot Noir, Kiana Pinot Noir, Terres Basses Pinot Noir, Triple Black Slopes Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley *

NEW ZEALAND: CENTRAL OTAGO

HUNGARY: Tokaj

ROYAL TOKAJI

Furmint Áts Cuvée (Late Harvest) Red Label, 5 Puttonyos Aszú Essencia Betsek, 6 Puttonyos, First Growth Nyulászó, 6 Puttonyos, First Growth Szt. Tamás, 6 Puttonyos, First Growth Mézes Mály, 6 Puttonyos, Great First Growth Essencia

Wilson D a n i e l s L t d . • P. O. B o x 4 4 0 - B • S t . H e l e n a , C A 94574 • (t) 707.963.9661 • (f) 707.963.8566 • www.wilsondaniels.com * Half bottles available ** Large format available *** Not available every year

W I L S O N D A N I E L S LT D . P O R T F O L I O IMPORTED WINE ESTATES FRANCE: ALSACE

DOMAINE MARC KREYDENWEISS

FRANCE: BURGUNDY

Andlau Riesling Mercurey “Clos Rochette” Clos Rebberg Pinot Gris Mercurey “La Framboisière” Clos Rebberg Riesling Clos Rebberg Pinot Gris Sélection de Grains Nobles *** Mercurey “Les Mauvarennes” Mercurey “Clos des Myglands” Premier Cru Clos Rebberg Riesling Vendanges Tardives *** Beaune “Clos de l’Ecu” Premier Cru Val d’Éléon Riesling/Pinot Gris Gevrey-Chambertin “Clos des Issarts” Premier Cru Kritt Gewürztraminer Corton “Clos des Cortons-Faiveley” Grand Cru Kritt Pinot Blanc Lerchenberg Pinot Gris Moenchberg Pinot Gris Grand Cru Moenchberg Pinot Gris Grand Cru Vendanges Tardives *** DOMAINE DE LA ROMANÉE-CONTI Vosne-Romanée Cuvée Duvault-Blochet Premier Cru *** Wiebelsberg Riesling Grand Cru Échézeaux Grand Cru Kastelberg Riesling Grand Cru *** Grands Échézeaux Grand Cru Kastelberg Riesling Grand Cru Vendanges Tardives *** Romanée-St-Vivant Grand Cru Richebourg Grand Cru Montrachet Grand Cru

FRANCE: SOUTHERN RHÔNE MARC KREYDENWEISS

Ansata, Vin de Pays des Coteaux Flaviens, Rhône Valley Perrières, Costières de Nîmes, Rhône Valley

MONOPOLES OF THE DOMAINE La Tâche Grand Cru Romanée-Conti Grand Cru

DOMAINE PIERRE MOREY

FRANCE: BURGUNDY DOMAINE LEFLAIVE

Mâcon-Verzé Bourgogne Blanc Puligny-Montrachet Puligny-Montrachet “Clavoillon” Premier Cru Puligny-Montrachet “Les Pucelles” Premier Cru Puligny-Montrachet “Les Combettes” Premier Cru Puligny-Montrachet “Les Folatières” Premier Cru Meursault Sous le Dos d’Ane Premier Cru Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru

Bourgogne Aligoté Bourgogne Chardonnay Meursault Meursault “Les Terres Blanches” Meursault “Les Tessons” Meursault “Perrières” Premier Cru Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru Bourgogne Pinot Noir Monthélie Meursault “Les Durots” Pommard “Grands Epenots” Premier Cru Volnay “Santenots” Premier Cru

MOREY-BLANC

DOMAINE FAIVELEY

FRANCE: NORTHERN RHÔNE

MONOPOLES OF DOMAINE FAIVELEY DOMAINE PHILIPPE & Mercurey “Clos Rond” VINCENT JABOULET

Saint-Aubin “Les Pucelles” Saint-Aubin Premier Cru “Joseph Faiveley” Bourgogne Chardonnay Auxey-Duresses “Joseph Faiveley” Bourgogne Pinot Noir Meursault “Bouchères” Premier Cru Montagny Meursault “Charmes” Premier Cru Mercurey Meursault “Genevrières” Premier Cru Mâcon-Villages Meursault “Gouttes d’Or” Premier Cru Mâcon-Prissé Meursault “Poruzots” Premier Cru Chablis Meursault “Les Narvaux” Chablis “Les Clos” Grand Cru Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru Chambolle-Musigny Montrachet Grand Cru Givry “Champ Lalot” Aloxe-Corton “Clos du Chapitre” Premier Cru Gevrey-Chambertin Aloxe-Corton “Les Vercots” Premier Cru Gevrey “Les Cazetiers” Premier Cru Corton “Les Renardes” Grand Cru Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru Nuits-Saint-Georges Note: Not all Morey-Blanc wines listed above Nuits-Saint-Georges “Les Porêts Saint Georges” Premier Cru are available every year.

Nuits-St-Georges “Les Saint-Georges” Premier Cru Nuits-St-Georges “Les Vignerondes” Premier Cru Clos Vougeot Grand Cru FRANCE: CHAMPAGNE Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru HOUSE OF DELAMOTTE Rully “Les Villeranges” Blanc de Blancs Meursault “Blagny” Premier Cru Brut */** Meursault “Charmes” Premier Cru Brut Rosé Blagny “La Pièce sous le Bois” Premier Cru Volnay “Santenots” Premier Cru Vosne-Romanée HOUSE OF SALON Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs **

Syrah (Vin de Pays de la Drôme) Crozes-Hermitage Blanc Crozes-Hermitage Rouge Crozes-Hermitage Rouge “Nouvelère” Hermitage Blanc Hermitage Rouge Cornas

FRANCE: RHÔNE VALLEY TARDIEU-LAURENT

Côtes-du-Rhône Villages “Les Becs Fins” Côtes-du-Rhône “Guy Louis” Blanc Côtes-du-Rhône “Guy Louis” Rouge Côtes-du-Luberon “Domaine de la Bastide de Rhodarès” Rasteau “Vieilles Vignes” Gigondas “Vieilles Vignes” Vacqueyras “Vieilles Vignes” Châteauneuf-du-Pape Châteauneuf-du-Pape “Vieilles Vignes” Blanc Châteauneuf-du-Pape “Vieilles Vignes” Rouge Châteauneuf-du-Pape “Cuvée Speciale” Saint-Peray “Vieilles Vignes” Saint-Joseph “Vieilles Vignes” Les Roches Crozes-Hermitage “Vieilles Vignes” Hermitage Cornas “Coteaux” Côte-Rôtie

ITALY: TUSCANY

TENIMENTI ANGELINI: SAN LEONINO Chianti Classico DOCG * Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG

TENUTA TREROSE

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Vino Nobile di Montepulciano “Simposio” DOCG

TUTTOBENE Rosso Toscana IGT

VAL DI SUGA

Rosso di Montalcino DOC Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Brunello di Montalcino “Vigna del Lago” DOCG Brunello di Montalcino “Vigna Spuntali” DOCG

CASTELLO DI VOLPAIA

Borgianni Chianti DOCG Chianti Classico DOCG Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Coltassala Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Balifico Toscana IGT Vinsanto del Chianti Classico DOC

TENUTA DI BISERNO Coronato Bolgheri DOC Insoglio del Cinghiale Il Pino di Biserno

Note: Other Faiveley wines may be available upon request.

Wilson Dan ie l s L t d . • P. O. B ox 4 4 0 - B • S t . H e l e n a , CA 94574 • ( t ) 707. 963. 9661 • ( f ) 707. 963. 8566 • w w w. w i l s o n d a n i e l s . c o m * Half bottles available ** Large format available *** Not available every year

P’ M: As we celebrate Wilson Daniel Ltd.’s 30th anniversary this year, we reflect upon all the people who have contributed to our success—from a very talented and passionate sales, marketing, office and warehouse team, to our extraordinary winery properties, distributor network and, of course, our many trade partners.

It is also a moment in time that allows us to revisit the strategic vision of our company’s founders, Win Wilson and Jack Daniels, to ensure that we are still well grounded in the fundamentals that have made Wilson Daniels Ltd. successful.

Although Wilson Daniels has evolved as an organization, we remain true to our founders’ vision—to be focused on representing ultra-premium and luxury wineries that are family-owned and offer the finest reflection of their specific terroir—in other words, the best of the best.

Thank you all for making our first 30 years a successful, wonderful experience!

Photo: Damon Mattson

Our properties are also committed to sustainable farming practices, which not only reflects their stewardship of the land, but also produces better quality fruit. This philosophy of environmental responsibility is evident throughout our company’s activities, as the Wilson Daniels team works diligently to reduce our carbon footprint. From company-sponsored van pools to aggressive recycling programs, we understand that sustainable environmental practices will be a critical element during our next 30 years.

Rudbeckia blossoms in front of Wilson Daniels Ltd. office

Andrew Fromm, President and COO

P.O. BOX 440-B ST. HELENA, CA 94574

PH: FX:

707•963•9661 707•963•8566

www.wilsondaniels.com

P RE -S ORTED S TANDARD U.S. P OSTAGE

PAID

P ERMIT #81 S T . H ELENA , CA