Oysters Made Easy

A primer of everything you need to know to bring the pride of Pacific Northwest beaches into your kitchen. BY NAOMI TOMKY

NATURALLY ABUNDANT, EASILY FARMED, HEALTHFUL, AND— above all—beguilingly delicious with the crisp flavor of the salty sea, oysters are the easy answer for the modern eater. While an oyster might contain pearls, when it comes to good eating, it’s the precious gem.

KNOW YOUR OYSTER

OLYMPIA

The only native Washington oyster, this tiny delicacy comes with a big coppery flavor.

KUMAMOTO

A Japanese oyster grown locally in Puget Sound, this deepcupped oyster is renowned for its subtle sweetness.

KUSSHI

This small variety from British Columbia grows suspended in mesh bags above and away from the sand, resulting in a clean but briny flavor.

CHELSEA GEM

A tumbled Pacific from Chelsea Farms (like the Blue Pool from Hama Hama or the Shigoku from Taylor Shellfish), this one is mildly briny with good mineral flavor, and easy to shuck, making it the perfect beginner’s oyster.

TOTTEN VIRGINICA

The oyster-lover’s oyster, this East Coast species grown by Washington-based Taylor Shellfish is plump and mediumsized with a uniquely complex but crisp brininess.

PICKING THE BEST

You can buy oysters any time of year: Refrigerated transportation and a little oyster wisdom have obsoleted the “only in months have an ‘r’” myth. Just look for oysters that are completely closed, and make sure they’re no more than a week old. You can ask to see the harvest tag, a legal requirement for selling shellfish, which will tell you the date they were harvested on. They should be sold refrigerated, but not in any water other than what they came in. A clean shell is a good sign, as it indicates that the farmer took care with the oyster. Most important, ask where they’re from and how they were raised; that will help you find the right flavor and texture of oyster for you.

Fish Sauce Mignonette

Amp up the savory side of your oysters with a mignonette inspired by the Vietnamese fish sauce nuoc cham.

Mince one small shallot and stir together with two tablespoons of fresh lime juice, two tablespoons of rice vinegar, and a half-tablespoon of fish sauce. Serve with a dozen fresh-shucked oysters.

HOW TO SHUCK AN OYSTER

For first-time shuckers, look for a medium-size, tumbled oyster, like the Chelsea Gem, Shigoku, or Blue Pool. Most importantly, use an oyster shucking knife: Do not try to improvise.

With a glove or kitchen towel over your nondominant hand, hold the oyster with the flat side up and the narrower end toward you.

Slip the tip of the oyster knife into the narrowest part, then gently wiggle it in a little bit (but do not force it). Twist the knife as if you were turning a doorknob, until you feel a little pop—it’s open!

Run the knife parallel and up against the inside of the flat top to cut the oyster muscle from it, then sweep the knife below the oyster to cut the connection there. Serve or slurp.

Baked Oysters

Oysters rarely come in cozy, comfort food form, but under a blanket of breadcrumbs and cheese, they turn from cool and crisp to a bivalve hug.

INGREDIENTS: 12 medium oysters; 6 tablespoons butter, divided; 3 cloves garlic, minced; ½ cup panko breadcrumbs; ¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese; 1 teaspoon paprika; 1 lemon, zested and in wedges (use two different lemons for zest and wedges if you’re looking for presentation points); 2 tablespoons freshly chopped parsley

METHOD: Heat oven to 425°F. Melt four tablespoons butter in a pan over medium heat. Add the garlic and stir lightly for two minutes, then mix in the breadcrumbs for another minute, stirring until brown. Move them to a bowl and let them cool for a minute.

Set up a sheet pan by taking a large piece of foil (about 50 percent bigger than the pan) and crinkling it into a ball, then lightly flattening it out on the pan. The ridges and creases will hold your oysters upright.

Shuck the oysters, taking care to keep as much of their liquor inside. (You can do this over a bowl and pour it back on later if need be.) Place each one on the pan, molding the foil as needed to hold them upright. Stir together the breadcrumbs, lemon zest, cheese, and paprika. Cut the remaining two tablespoons butter into 12 pieces, placing one on each oyster and topping with a bit of the breadcrumb mixture (about one tablespoon each).

Bake for eight to ten minutes. The oysters should be bubbling and the top golden-brown. Sprinkle with parsley and serve with the lemon wedges.