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Want a wine trip with a difference? Queensland’s Granite Belt awaits. Passionate makers, premium wines and dramatic landscapes are all part of the package. WORDS jeremy Pringle
PICTURED
The sun sets behind Stanthorpe, as viewed from Mt Marley. (opposite) Stanthorpe is a great regional base; the Granite Belt’s unique landscape.
granite belt
Photography // courtesy Granite Belt Wine & Tourism (Zac Robinson); Alamy
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reconceptions can be the enemy of new pleasures. When most people think of Queensland, the images that spring to mind are probably of beaches, warm weather, islands and perhaps the Great Barrier Reef. The idea that the Sunshine State is also capable of producing premium wine doesn’t necessarily fit. But just a three-hour drive from either Brisbane or the Gold Coast is Queensland’s premier wine-producing region – the Granite Belt. This is high country, where winter temperatures sometimes drop below zero and frosts in spring pose significant viticultural hazards. An average altitude of around 800m and a continental climate far cooler than many people might expect create conditions that allow producers to achieve high-quality table wines of medium-bodied elegance. The region stretches 60km from the village of Dalveen in the north to the border of New South Wales in the south. As you travel along the highway from Brisbane, the only suggestion of the landscape and lofty heights that lie ahead comes via the steep, winding roads that thread through Cunninghams Gap. Otherwise, the trip suggests a misleadingly flat terrain. By the time you’ve passed through Warwick at 455m above sea level and reached The Summit on the Granite Belt some 40 minutes later, you’ll find yourself at an elevation of 925m. It’s a steady and surprising ascent – and the same can be said of the region’s wines over the past decade.
Beauty and a bad rap Grapes were grown in the hub of the Granite Belt, Stanthorpe, as early as the 1860s due to the local Catholic parish priest Father Jerome Davadi wanting to produce altar wine. His Italian heritage, shared by many other early settlers, ensured grape growing and winemaking were keen hobbies in the area. These early wines were made primarily for home enjoyment. The first commercial wine grapes were planted much later – in the 1960s – when John and Heather Robinson established Robinsons Family Vineyards. Within a year, the godfather of Queensland wine, Angelo Puglisi, set up operations at Sundown Valley Vineyards, which would later become Ballandean Estate. Despite the presence of these regional pioneers, commercial wine production only took off in the 1980s and ’90s. An atmosphere of rugged yet serene beauty served as a drawcard for many tourists
– and still does. As I visit in early December, abundant wildflowers greet me, providing a wonderful counterpoint to the weather-beaten granite boulders. They are strewn throughout the landscape as if they were once part of a giant’s long-forgotten game of marbles. In winter, a stark greyness descends on the land, but the allure of fireplaces, hearty local produce and top wine draws visitors in even greater droves. Orchards, grazing land, cattle and quaint housing remain, but progress is leading to increasing diversity in terms of the wine, produce, restaurants and architecture. It’s easy to see why tourists fall in love with this place – and leave with a case or two of wine. My first stop at Summit Estate to see winemaker Paola Cabezas Rhymer touches on one of the region’s major challenges – a poor perception from some enthusiasts about the quality of their wines. ➺
this is high country, where winter temperatures can sometimes drop below zero and frosts in spring pose viticultural hazards.
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elevated advantage The vineyards surrounding Stanthorpe are among the highest in Australia and its granite soils are said to be similar to the coarse, sandy soils of southern Burgundy in France.
Ballandean // 723m Stanthorpe // 811m The Summit // 925m Toowoomba // 586m Warwick // 455m Brisbane // 40m Gold Coast // 10m
THE GRANITE BELT
Paola is from Argentina and has made wine in her native country and worked vintages in Spain and France. She throws up her hands in exasp eration when quizzed about the Granite Belt’s reputation. “People ask me, ‘Paola, why you working in the Granite Belt?’ I say, ‘Why you asking? It’s great here! Stunning fruit, so much potential and freedom.’ Why we have a bad reputation? I never understand what bad reputation is all about.” Paola is at pains to apologise for her “poor” English, but there’s no need; her point is made and then further driven home after tasting her wines.
We have the potential to be the most exciting region in the Southern Hemisphere… We have no preconceptions about where we’re going and that’s what makes us so unique... mike hayes symphony hill wines
Summit Estate doesn’t focus on straight varietal expressions. The complexity of the 2011 Summit Estate Alto The Blend demonstrates just how effective this approach can be. This wine incorporates monastrell, shiraz, grenache, tempranillo and tannat. Clarity and detail mark a spicy wine with black cherry fruits, rain-on-asphalt perfume and a meaty intrigue. The 2012 Summit Estate Monastrell Cabernet Sauvignon provides further evidence. It’s a richer wine with succulent, plump tannins and pleasant raisin sweetness. Other winemakers offer a variety of explanations for the scepticism among some wine circles. Many suggest it could hark back to the early days when wines were made more as a pastime rather than a serious endeavour. Mark Ravenscroft has been employed as a contract winemaker by many of the success stories within the region, including Robert Channon Wines, as well as running his own Ravens Croft Wines label. He is straightforward in his appraisal. “It comes from the ’60s, ’70s, ’80s and ’90s. I always felt that the Granite Belt would be better off if it didn’t have a history,” he says. Peter McGlashan of Ridgemill Estate is of a similar mind. “If we could amputate our history and say ‘We’re the Granite Belt’ from this point on...
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Pictured (right, clockwise from top)
Ridgemill Estate has cabins as well as a tasting room; the delights at Ballandean Estate’s cellar door; the inviting and unique tent accommodation at Alure; indulge at the Barrel Room Cafe.
Photography // courtesy Ridgemill Estate, Barrel Room Café, Alure Stanthorpe; (opposite) Symphany Hill Wines
that would be perfect. It’s only in the last 10 years that we’ve been producing wine that we can be proud of,” he says. “In terms of our qualities and our knowledge, we are a young region.” Mark and Peter have made two of the best Granite Belt chardonnays I have tasted, both from the 2012 vintage – the Ridgemill Estate Chardonnay and Ravens Croft Chardonnay. These two wines can proudly stand beside their counterparts from the Yarra Valley, Tasmania, Margaret River and Mornington Peninsula. When asked if the region has a distinctive chardonnay profile, both makers mention citrus and a flinty minerality. “In some years it can get quite steely,” Peter says. Leaps and bounds As the saying goes, it takes years to become an overnight success. The next generation of winemakers are guiding the burgeoning Granite Belt wine industry into a new era with a sure hand, while building on the work of their predecessors. The wines may be improving at a more rapid rate than ever, but the groundwork still has to be done. Ballandean Estate and Sirromet Wines have played a crucial part in getting the Granite Belt brand out to a wider audience. The former has been producing consistent wines that have won medals and awards for over a decade, while the latter’s cellar door operation and restaurant on the southeastern skirt of Brisbane at Mount Cotton was one of the first to bring the region to the people. The producer perhaps most responsible for establishing the integrity of the Granite Belt in the wider wine community is Boireann. Peter and Therese Stark have developed a cult following, in no small part due to the recognition granted to their wines by James Halliday. Their vineyard is a mere 1.6 hectares and their meticulous attention to detail in the vineyard and winery results in red wines that sell out fast each year. Their best-known wine, a shiraz viognier, has been mentioned in the same breath as Tim Kirk’s muchloved take on the same blend under his Clonakilla label. This Boireann wine ➺
Where to eat
The Barrel Room Cafe //
With 150-year-old wine barrels as a backdrop, here you can enjoy modern Italian cuisine and a thoughtful, extensive wine list, all next to Ballandean Estate. www.ballandeanestate.com
Varias // While this is staffed by Queensland College of Wine and Tourism students, don’t expect anything less than professional. A qualified head chef offers a la carte and degustation lunch options, with the Banca Ridge wines also made by the students. You’ll be pleasantly surprised. www.varias.com.au
The Vineyard Cafe //
Soak up the ambience of an old country church as you enjoy classic dishes, local produce and plenty of innovation. The wine list centres on the best of the Granite Belt. www.vineyardcafe.com.au
Ballandean Tavern //
Relax on the deck overlooking the Ballandean Valley and cleanse your palate with a beer while enjoying a tasty counter meal. It’s a delicious and inexpensive lunch option. www.ballandeantavern.com.au
Where to Stay
Alure Stanthorpe //
If you’re after a decadent stay, Alure is your pick. Enjoy the tranquillity of native bushland as you unwind in an outdoor heated spa and gaze at the stars, or perhaps light the fire inside your villa and cook up a meal using the bounty from your adventures. You can also order in from a local restaurant and a breakfast hamper is included. Luxury tents are also available, although “tent” does not do them justice. www.alurestanthorpe.com.au
Ridgemill Estate Cabins //
Relax with your included bottle of wine and canapes in a studio-style cabin with a raked aluminium roof, fireplace and kitchenette. It’s in the Ridgemill vineyards with a communal barbecue area where you can mingle with other visitors and share your discoveries. www.ridgemillestate.com
Sancerre Estate Bed & Breakfast //
These authentic country guest rooms overlook a vineyard and take in views to the granite pyramids in Girraween National Park. Make your way to the main lounge to enjoy a hot breakfast cooked to your liking in the morning. www.sancerreestate.com.au
Pick up some goodies
Granite Belt Dairy //
Your picnic needs are covered here with a range of relishes, jams, olive oils, vinegars and cheese made by owner Karen from the herd of jersey cows next to the dairy. www.granitebeltdairy.com.au
The Bramble Patch // In the hills above Glen Aplin, this is a must. Award-winning coulis, jams, kassoundis, pastes and pickles are available. Or pull up a seat and indulge in an ice cream, hot dessert or popular berry pie. www.bramblepatch.com.au
Vincenzo’s //
Stop in for a homemade pie or stock up on smoked venison or rabbit. Choose from smallgoods, olives and cheeses. It’s a handy roadhouse right beside the New England Highway at the northern end of the region in Thulimbah. www.vincenzos.com.au
Sutton’s Juice Factory //
Had enough wine? Try Sutton’s ciders. This is a family run, fully functional apple orchard where you can pick your own fruit. Take a seat in the packing shed and enjoy a coffee and apple pie. www.suttonsfarm.com.au
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wines to try
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Golden Grove Vintage Grand Reserve Tempranillo 2012 // $65 Golden Grove Vintage Grand Reserve Durif 2012 // $65 Symphony Hills Gewürztraminer 2013 // $30 Tobin Wines Max Shiraz Block 1 2012 // $45 Tobin Wines Five Years Old Isabella Semillon 2007 // $50 Summit Estate The Blend 2011 // $40 Robert Channon Pinot Gris 2013 // $19.50
can become so scarce that in great years, such as 2002, Peter and Therese have bought back their own wine on the secondary market after exhausting their personal stocks. The good news is their 2013 version looks terrific in barrel. Fragrant, laden with pepper and beautifully textured, it will be a wine to seek out when released this year. I ask Peter if he feels a sense of pride about his contribution
to the area and in a typically humble fashion, he shies away from the question, smiles and quietly replies, “I suppose so.” It’s a legacy he may soon leave behind because as of late last year, Boireann was on the market; Peter and Therese have decided it’s time to enter the next phase of their life. “Another young person can take it to the next level,” he says. It seems many here have been committed to proving an important point. Adrian Tobin of Tobin Wines owns a vineyard of shiraz and semillon that were planted in the 1960s. “I’m a parochial bloody Queenslander and I wanted to prove you could make great wine here,” he says. Dedicated to creating wines with a sense of place, Adrian’s love affair with all things vinous began in the late ’50s. His formative years were spent visiting the Hunter Valley as regularly as possible. The effect of those trips can be seen in the medium-bodied shiraz and early picked semillon that he nurtures and bottles. But these are not simply homages to the Hunter; the 2012 Max Shiraz Block 1 and Block 2 bear the spicy stamp of the Ballandean area, while the 2013 Isabella Semillon is far more floral than its southern siblings. These are undoubtedly Granite Belt wines. “My confidence knows no bounds when it comes to this little pocket of Ballandean,” he says. It’s an optimism shared throughout the region. The road ahead It’s a terrific time to visit the region. Many 2012 wines are now available and while yields were low, the quality among the region’s best is sky high. This point
Strange Bird Alternative Wine Trail
Choose your own adventure on the Strange Bird Alternative Wine Trail – a great way to familiarise yourself with wines you may never have tried. Grab a leaflet from the Stanthorpe Visitor Information Centre, pick
the wines you’d like to try and plan your route on the map provided. Food pairings, origins and grape characters are all included, but don’t be afraid to ask questions along the way. www.granitebeltwine country.com.au
Photography // courtesy Granite Belt Wine & Tourism
The ultimate wine tour
about quantity is important because the region’s natural terrain inhibits largescale plantings. “In areas like this you can’t do broad-acre planting – just little pockets between boulders,” says Adrian Tobin. “Most of us aren’t big enough to supply retail chains.” This means the best way to discover these wines is to visit the region’s cellar doors. They’re not intimidating and you have a better chance of speaking to the winemakers than in many other Australian regions. Ray Costanzo’s 2012 Woongooroo Vintage Grand Reserve reds are worth the trip alone. He’s crafted a tempranillo, barbera, nero d’avola, durif and malbec. Collectively they raise the bar another notch. Third-generation winegrower and local boy Mike Hayes has released two exquisitely perfumed gewürztraminers from 2013 and an excitingly textural 2010 Wild Fermented Viognier under the Symphony Hill banner. That’s not to mention that perhaps the best shiraz from the region to date is still available – his 2008 Symphony Hill Reserve Shiraz. The Granite Belt may not have a ‘hero’ variety, but it’s embracing alternative plantings. The best wines exhibit delicacy, perfume and a nuanced mouthfeel, regardless of the grape. Just don’t go seeking blockbusters – finesse is the name of the game here. As Mike Hayes says, “We have the potential to be the most exciting region in the Southern Hemisphere. Different pockets can deliver great mourvedre, fiano, shiraz, petit verdot, viognier… We have no preconceptions about where we’re going and that’s what makes us so unique and so interesting.” The road ahead leads steadily onwards and upwards.