25 minute read
saluting santorini
Indies seek out the Assyrtiko grape in the Santorini PDO – an environment where almost everything else struggles
Rock star winemakers 3,500 years of achieving the impossible on Santorini
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Everybody knows that grape vines thrive in inhospitable landscapes. But in the Santorini PDO, the resilience of vitis vinifera is tested to something approaching its limits.
This famous Greek island likes to extend a friendly welcome to holidaymakers, but there’s little here to make viticulture feel at home – despite the fact that people have been making wine on Santorini, in various forms, for 3,500 years.
It’s a harsh volcanic landscape of pumice stone and ash, baked by the scorching Aegean sun and blasted by wind. Trees and grass struggle to establish a foothold on Santorini, and so would most grape varieties. Assyrtiko is one of a handful of honourable exceptions, almost all of them white.
Assyrtiko from Santorini, the main variety of the PDO, has become a favourite among many UK independents, who seem to find a ready market for its ultra-zippy, full-bodied white wines, which typically come with a faintly salty tang on the finish.
When the opportunity arises to visit the island and get to understand not just classic Assyrtiko but the famous Vinsanto sweet wines too, there’s no shortage, unsurprisingly, of willing takers. Old vines that dig deep
Anyone who says that vineyards everywhere look pretty much the same has never visited Santorini. Vines sprawl at ankle level across the volcanic debris, their precious grapes protected from the elements within a gobelet-like basket system called a kouloura. By encouraging the vines to grow this way, the fruit occupies its own microclimate, protected from wind damage, dehydration and sunburn. Put your hand inside this secret chamber and it’s immediately clear that the temperature is 1˚C to 2˚C cooler than the surrounding air. It’s why the pickers sometimes keep their lunch here while they set about their back-breaking work.
When wine growers on Santorini talk about old vines, they mean very old, often more than 200 years. Phylloxera can’t cope with the island’s clay-free conditions, so vines can rely on their own rootstock. Eventually, when yields become too low, growers graft on a new head to the vine, initially anchoring it into the ground to stop the winds whisking it away. The vines drive down deep into the black rock: one grower we encounter believes the roots on some of his plots extend 75 metres underground. It can take more than a
Above: Chris Goldman and Elly Owen representing UK indies Below: A classic tourist view of Santorini
decade for a new vine to become viable.
There is no natural source of fresh water on Santorini. So where are the vines sourcing theirs? Rain falls on just 65 days a year, on average, amounting to a mere 370mm (or an alarmingly meagre 119mm in 2021) that evaporates quickly. But there is a natural drip-irrigation system in the form of the morning dew, and evening sea mists, which supplies the plants with a welcome, and crucial, moisture boost.
We notice a few dried-out bunches here and there, outside the embrace of the kouloura. On healthy bunches, the grapes are packed tightly together, but there’s no chance of fungus taking hold in this dry heat. Vineyards on Santorini may or may not be officially classed as organic, but in reality only the most eccentric grower would feel the need to spray their crops.
The white grape that acts like a red
Although most of us on the trip think we have a fair idea of the Santorini Assyrtiko template, it soon becomes apparent that the spectrum of styles is broader than we realised.
Some winemakers remark that the tannic structure of the grape makes it behave more like a red wine than a classic white. Phenolics are “through the roof”, according to one producer, and some styles certainly benefit from a few years of bottle age before their flavour components properly meld together. But the consumer clamour for young, fresh wines is something producers are happy to indulge.
The PDO for Santorini Assyrtiko now stipulates that at least 85% of the blend is Assyrtiko. Some producers have gained a following for their genuinely single-varietal wines, but most also include some Aidani or Athiri, which complement the headline grape’s natural austerity with more aromatic characters.
Then there’s the question of oak. Although some producers we meet clearly enjoy expressing the purity of the fruit without any barrel influence, others insist that some judicious oak seasoning creates a more rounded – and arguably more gastronomic – wine.
A style we encounter almost everywhere we go is Nykteri. The word translates loosely as “working through the night” and is a reference to the traditional practice of harvesting the grapes during the cooler hours of darkness. The juice for Nykteri wines is usually drawn off without pressing before a minimum of three months of Assyrtiko vines trained in Santorini’s traditional kouloura system
oak ageing. The wines can be strikingly complex, and long-lived.
After a number of tastings we start to appreciate how Assyrtiko can develop with age. The steely, citrus elements of its youth don’t disappear entirely – indeed we consistently remark on the surprising freshness of five or six-year-old wines. But as the colour darkens a little, it’s noticeable that the wines take on a satisfying richness, an additional stone-fruit sort of character and maybe a touch of honey. We also pick up a pleasant nutty sensation, and flashes of figs and mountain herbs. We begin to understand why many of our hosts choose to decant their older Assyrtiko wines.
We taste an impressive orange Assyrtiko at one winery, which helps confirm that experimentation is adding new dimensions to the island’s winemaking. Amphorae can be spotted lurking in some cellars, and occasionally eggs made from concrete, steel or clay.
“The results are very interesting,” one oenologist assures us. “It’s good to play; to use your imagination and be creative. Assyrtiko is a grape that never disappoints you.”
VIVA VINSANTO
The sweet spot of the Santorini PDO
Santorini’s signature sweet wine, Vinsanto, can look on first inspection like it’s made with a red grape. But once again it’s Assyrtiko working its magic: at least 51% of the blend must come from the variety.
The grapes are allowed to overripen before being laid out in the sun – or in some cases, partial shade – to gradually dehydrate. As the fruit turns into raisins, the sugars are concentrated. After a slow (often spontaneous) fermentation and lengthy ageing in barrel and bottle, Vinsanto wines emerge with a characteristic velvety richness, but also a balancing acidity from the Assyrtiko. They are not fortified, making them far less heavy than many aperitif and digestif alternatives.
Vinsanto proves to be another Assyrtiko-dominated wine that’s hard to pigeonhole. Some examples, we are told, should be enjoyed straight from the freezer in chilled shot glasses. At least one producer is considering developing Vinsanto cocktails. Often we detect that unmistakable Santorini salinity, creating a salted caramel effect. In a few examples, a bolder approach with oak imbues an interesting rustic edge.
One winery treats us to a 2020 Vinsanto straight from the barrel. It’s just a baby, but already the fig, apricot and caramel flavours are dancing on the palate. Maybe, if we’re lucky, we’ll get to taste it again in 10 years’ time.
Charlotte Dean Wined Up Here, west London
Phil Innes Loki Wine, Birmingham
The vineyards were great to see; the dark volcanic soil and dramatic volcanic slopes contrasting against the vibrant green vines low to the ground that had soaked up the morning dew, and were weaved around the grapes to protect them from the harsh sun and wind. It was great to put your feet under the vines to feel the cooler air! A lovely detail to impart to customers.
The winemakers we met all seemed very switched on, young and vibrant. It was nice to see quite a few of them were female and experimenting with amphorae and different sizes and shapes of vats, and different oak too.
I was amazed at how many cuvées each of the wineries produced from just the one grape variety. The age of the vines certainly had an impact on the weight and complexity of the wine.
I preferred the wines with softened acidity and more weight on the palate obtained by the gentle oxidation by the use of oak, the more elegant the better.
The addition of other grape varieties, especially Aidani, which gave a more grapefruit zestiness to those wines labelled Santorini, was very appealing compared to the mineral austerity of 100% Assyrtiko, making the wines more refreshing and definitely inviting another sip.
I enjoy the fresher styles of Assyrtiko that really play to the acidity, minerality and salinity of the variety.
I prefer Assyrtiko as a single varietal, I think, although sometimes the blends can be interesting and pare back some of the acidity, adding a floral note. I think oak can add some real interest to the wines. However it needs to be well thought out, with a light touch. Too much oak can result in some of the unique characteristics of Assyrtiko from Santorini being lost.
I like the slightly sweeter styles of Vinsanto. I think the best ones have a real salinity that comes through almost like salted caramel.
Santorini wines are very drinkable and have a unique set of conditions that nowhere else can match, giving you a completely different style of wine to anywhere else. The current trend is for drinkable, dry wines, so Assyrtiko really fits that bill. As long as the pricing can stay around about the current levels, I can only see the popularity increasing from here.
Aljoscha Wright The Oxford Wine Company
I felt the unoaked wines showed the true character of Assyrtiko and the terroir. It seemed that the age of the vines, coupled with extended lees contact, balanced
Assyrtiko’s searing acidity. These wines also definitely improved with an extra year or two bottle age.
Charlotte Dean (left) with Elly Owen
Aljoscha Wright
Aidani is lower in both alcohol and acidity and Athiri brings aromatics. Both support Assyrtiko well in a blend, tempering its high acidity and alcohol and adding fruit to younger wines.
Assyrtiko proved itself very versatile and in the right hands a little bit of old oak added a pleasing layer of complexity. Given the minute amount of Assyrtiko Santorini produces, I believe offering varying styles is definitely a way of appealing to a greater audience. We did taste one oaked version that was absolutely stunning.
I believe the wines resonate well with consumers. The average bottle spend in our shops has increased, with customers willing to pay more for quality. These wines are very much a hand sell and once our customers understand what it takes to produce wines on Santorini, I believe they would be well received.
Elly Owen The Old Garage, Truro
I really loved seeing the way the Assyrtiko was so adaptable. I liked the pure and linear style of seeing it unadulterated where the acidity is evident. But I thought it was brilliant with careful use of oak or bâtonage to accentuate the grape’s style and to round the edges ever so slightly.
I think that the oak, used carefully, definitely has a place in the range of wines Assyrtiko can produce. The best examples were where the oak was second or thirdfill and took a back-seat role in the wine. These are often so subtle but to me it helps to create a lovely depth to the wine and highlight the depth of the grape.
The Vinsanto wines that I most enjoyed tended to be the ones where the acidity was still prevalent, helping to offset the PX type of sweetness and keeping freshness. This style had orange, saffron and ginger spice, which was really lovely.
Santorini wines are quite diverse and can offer a lot for one grape variety. Within the independent trade, some of the wines could definitely rival top-end Chablis and could be marketed in such a way to explore this comparison.
Assyrtiko, considering its versatility, actually represents good value at the high end and probably has greater appeal than Riesling – which most customers have preconceptions about.
Mark Wrigglesworth The Good Wine Shop, west London
I preferred the mineral and saline styles of Assyrtiko, particularly those that had some texture and weight rather than just refreshing acidity.
When it was entirely neutral oak did add some weight and texture which, for pairing with food, has some merit. My preference is for no oak, but if it is used, not deployed in a way that is noticeably detectable in flavour profile.
I preferred the Vinsanto wines with lower sugar, which meant the balance of acidity created freshness and less viscosity. Great with some of the cheeses we were served.
I certainly think Santorini can build on its current momentum in the UK. They have a unique growing climate and history as well as indigenous grapes that have adapted well.
This is perfect for the independent trade as it gives multiple points for consumers to engage with.
I certainly think the wines will resonate with customers as they are refreshing summer styles which pair well with a variety of foods due to the high acidity.
While prices of the wines are more premium, I think for the educated and informed customer, seeking a new wine experience, they offer a lot.
Equally, for those who may have travelled to the region and enjoyed the wines, there are ready-made advocates to drive the profile and sales in the longer term.
brig ht ideas
35: e-bike deliveries
Louisa Fitzpatrick & Jamie Tonkin Old Chapel Cellars, Cornwall
In a nutshell: An electric bike is an eco-friendly way to make deliveries and doubles up as a useful marketing tool.
Tell us more …
“We have a Riese & Muller Load 75, which we bought in January. We are B Corp certified and that filters through everything we do. Our values are very much aligned with what B Corp means, but aside from that we thought the bike would be good for business. Truro is quite a small town and it’s actually easier to do some deliveries by bike when it comes to parking and access. Plus it gives us a bit of kudos: we have our logo and branding on it and people really notice it around town.”
Was it a big investment?
“There were several things that added up to making a case for buying it. Our van was getting a bit long in the tooth so we were looking for an alternative. We were also able to take advantage of a very shortlived government incentive. The bike cost approximately £7,000 and the government grant of £2,000 made that more viable for us, and then there is an increased tax write-down, so we just thought, ‘why not?’”
We know that you’re a pretty active bunch at Old Chapel Cellars. Do you all take a turn using it for deliveries?
“We do, and we are actively looking for some formal bike training for the team as the rules of the road have changed. We have a lot of customers who are bike enthusiasts and they have given us tips. Apparently the last thing you should do is go towards the left as you’d be more likely to fall off as there are drains and crevices. They say we should drive in the road and take ownership, so some formal training is necessary to give us all that confidence. There isn’t an official organisation that we know of, although we have spoken to the local bike shop and to someone who teaches cycling in schools, so we’ll sort something.”
In between deliveries, does it sit outside the shop looking beautiful?
“It does actually bring a few people in who want to talk about the bike.
“We think it has more potential than just being a delivery vehicle. We thought we might take it out on the road and run a bit of a bar from it.”
Has it successfully replaced your van?
“We still need the services of a van, mostly for our wholesale deliveries. At the moment we are using a local carbon-free delivery company for that. If we were to buy another van, it would be electric.
“The bike also works really well as a glorified sack truck. We have an account just about a hundred yards up the road. We used to deliver their wine on a sack truck, and that could sometimes tip on a cobble, and it would take two trips. Now, we can just load the bike up and walk it round all in one go.”
Do you think merchants anywhere in the UK would benefit from having an e-bike for deliveries?
“Yes! Especially in flatter places – it would be great fun. We’ve been using it since January and so far we’ve not had to recharge it. Admittedly we’re only going around the centre of Truro, but that charge is amazing.”
Louisa and Jamie win a WBC gift box containing some premium drinks and a box of chocolates.
Tell us about a bright idea that’s worked for you and you too could win a prize.
Assuli Furioso Perricone 2017
Reasons to despise phylloxera number 1,485: it almost destroyed the prized Perricone vineyards of western Sicily. The variety has since been overshadowed by Nero d’Avola, with which it is often blended, but Assuli is keen to give it the limelight. The tannins here are moderate by the variety’s standards and they allow the violet and blackberry characters to come to the fore.
RRP: £24.99 ABV: 14% Carson & Carnevale Wines (020 3261 0929) carsoncarnevalewines.com
Château des Demoiselles Rosé 2021
To be honest, the majority of rosés in the Provence style blur into one these days but this taut Cinsault/ Grenache/Tibouren blend from the Esclans Valley impressed with its intensity and length. Strawberries and raspberries dominate the palate, obviously, but did we detect some green apple in there too? Maybe we did.
RRP: £23.50 ABV: 13.5% Louis Latour Agencies (020 7409 7276) louislatour.co.uk
VIDA Estates Sandanski Misket 2016
With prices set to soar in just about every established wine region of Europe, countries like Bulgaria have the chance to make their case. This light and breezy white from the north west of the country is an unpretentious crowd pleaser, but is still full of personality, with flashes of honey and ginger.
RRP: £15.29 ABV: 12.5% VIDA Wines & Spirits (020 7965 7283) vidawines.co.uk
Astobiza Gorabie Txakoli 2020
Everyone seems to love Txakoli when they try it, so why isn’t it a bigger seller in the independent trade? Maybe this could finally be the summer of Hondarrabi Zuri, which makes up 85% of this crisp and grapefruity Basque white. There’s something extra going on below the surface here, beneath the playful zestiness: something sinister and sulphorous, in a good way.
RRP: £16.95 ABV: 12.5% Richmond Wine Agencies (020 8744 5550) richmondwineagencies.com
Szeremley Birtok Badacsonyi Bakator 2008
A rare grape from Hungary’s Badascony region, Bakator is high-yielding and pink-coloured variety that will be intriguingly unfamiliar to most imbibers in the UK. It’s capable of wines with superb ageing potential, as seems to be the case with this firm but mediumbodied example, with notes of blood and raspberries.
RRP: £24 ABV: 12.5% Malux Hungarian Wines (020 7164 6925) hungarianwineandspirits.com
Avondale Qvevri 2020
Paarl-based Avondale claims to be the first winery in South Africa to ferment wines in qvevri, allowing the wine to accentuate the fruit characters but also minerality of the grapes – in this case whole-bunch Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Malbec. There’s an earthy character, too, which anchors those rampant red fruit flavours and adds complexity.
RRP: £31.99 ABV: 12% Cachet Wine (01482 581792) cachetwine.co.uk
Vallisto Extremo Barbera 2021
This high-altitude Barbera from Salta made The Wine Merchant Top 100 a couple of years ago and it’s a pleasure to find it on good form in the 2021 vintage. There’s a freshness and grip that you might expect at 1,900m altitude (early picking also helps), and a finesse you might not always associate with Barbera. The fruit is rich and pure, suspended by gossamer tannins.
RRP: £19.75 ABV: 12% Ucopia World Wines (01435 517080) ucopiawines.co.uk
Novak Floricica 2021
Moldova’s Floricica is another variety that will throw most drinkers in the British market and the disconnect between the aroma (floral and grapey) and the palate (pithy and oily) only adds to the sense of lost bearings. But it’s an enjoyable excursion into the unknown, and another reason to take notice of the great-value wines from this increasingly interesting country.
RRP: £16 ABV: 12% Moldovan Wine (01483 808413) moldovawine.co.uk
Sam Hellyer On the Road
SAM IS HEAD OF INDEPENDENT SPECIALISTS AT BERKMANN WINE CELLARS. HIS CAREER HAS INVOLVED SPELLS IN THE RETAILING AND SUPPLY SIDE OF THE WINE BUSINESS
Independent merchants know what they want and they are quite direct about
it, which makes them in many ways much easier customers than the on-trade sector. It’s their business and they are not trying to represent anyone else in their buying choices. No two shops look the same – it’s wonderful how different they all are. I love visiting them and exploring, as I always appreciate their huge range of wines and it means I usually leave with a bottle.
There isn’t an independent wine merchant where I live in Wantage,
which is a shame. Actually there’s a unit that’s just come up and it’s on the market square, with four parking bays right out in front of it. It would make a good wine shop and if anyone wants to open there, I can promise them lots of samples.
I got my first job in wine because I needed money to buy a bus pass for
college. I worked at Bottoms Up and as I was only 17 I wasn’t allowed to sell the wine, but I could restock on a Friday. When I turned 18 they decided I wasn’t going to burn the shop down so they let me run the store on Sundays with another 18-year-old. There was a good amount of education involved too, so it wasn’t all about the staplegun fights we had during quiet times.
I studied sociology at university, but even before my first lecture I found
the nearest Oddbins. I said: “I know the difference between a Gerwürztraminer and a Chardonnay, do you need to hire anyone?” By the time I got my degree I felt I’d devoted more time to wine than I had to my studies. Later, after two years of working my full-time job in market research at AC Nielsen, and the accompanying shifts at Oddbins, I realised I really didn’t like doing data analysis on Easter eggs for Tesco, but I really did like selling wine.
As a rep, I love that sometimes you just have to grab things by the scruff of the
neck and get on with it. When working for a much smaller importer years ago, I did have to make an impromptu delivery to Harrods in my battered Nissan Almera. At Berkmann we are moving over to fully electric cars soon, but right now I have a hybrid. In electric mode it is completely silent, so for safety reasons some noise is played through a speaker under the grille and the sound Kia has chosen is just like the hoverboard from Back to the Future. Needless to say, my kids love it!
We have an incredible range called Quails’ Gate, from the Okanagan
Valley. You could compare the price to Burgundy, but the difference is that this is actually available! It also has a little bit more brightness and fruit to it, fantastic quality, and it works for indies because it’s a bit unusual. Top notch Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from Canada.
There’s definitely a justified increase in interest from the trade for Lebanese
wines. We’ve been talking to people lately about Chateau Ksara. Their wines have a fascinating complexity. They don’t shy away from using international varieties, but they also embrace the use of native grapes. These are the sort of wines that indies can really run with.
The first wine I fell in love with was
Australian Shiraz. Tasting a back vintage of d’Arenberg’s Dead Arm was the point I realised that two wines can be similar while being completely different. Nowadays I absolutely love a slightly farmy, rustic, earthy Burgundy. It’s as far from a polished new-world fruit bomb as you can get. But if you were going to take all other wine away from me and leave me with only one region, it would have to be Champagne. I’m not a huge Champagne drinker but I think there is something so exceptional about it. Such a unique method; often imitated, but never bettered.
It’s a bit boring when I say that I really like spreadsheets, but part of me
really does. I love figures and statistics. The amount of business Berkmann has within the independent sector translates to enough meaningful data to spot trends – we can see what’s moving and why. It’s really useful for making decisions that fit the market.
I am growing a mystery vine and I want to get it to the stage where it can be
genetically tested. If it’s rare, I’m going to try and propagate it. It was a cutting that came from a 60-year old vine from Bothy vineyard in Frilford, and it had been rescued from Abingdon Abbey. Back in the 90s they had it genetically tested but no one could identify it. It’s doing well in my garden so far. I’m not a great gardener, but I’m good with trees and vines, so you could say I’m patient!
Feature sponsored by Berkmann Wine Cellars
For more information about the company, visit berkmann.co.uk Call 020 7609 4711
Favourite Things
Fiona Boulton
Kerb Manchester
Favourite wine on our list It would have to be Bodega Cauzón Fresa Salvaje. It’s a pink sparkling and it’s bready, mad interesting and super juicy. Favourite wine and food match The dream wine and food pairing would be some spicy fish tacos and Slurpy Boi NV from Fin Wines. It’s a light bodied, fruity, low-tannin red. Favourite wine trip I haven’t been away since Covid but top of the list would have to be Craven in South Africa. I met the winemaker, Mick Craven, and he was showing me photos of his estate – beautiful mountains right by the beach. Also, his wines are bangin’! Favourite wine trade person My favourite people from the trade would have to be Ed Read and Sam Adamson from Distant Lands. We’ve known each other years and had a great night at a pre-Covid Friends & Family festival. They are always finding the best stuff from all over and are sound to work with. Favourite wine shop Bar Part Time in San Francisco is a really fun club with great wine. I love that they’re bringing wine to a younger generation without any snobbishness. What more could you want?
Penfolds in French wine adventure
Penfolds is to launch its inaugural offering of French wine later this year.
One of the two wines has been made in collaboration with Bordeaux winemaking house Dourthe. Penfolds FWT 585 was made in the Bordeaux region at Château Cambon la Pelouse, and is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot, aged partially in new American oak.
Penfolds II Cabernet-Shiraz-Merlot comprises French Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, shipped down under and blended with Australian Shiraz before bottling.
Just Drinks, July 26
Stick to fewer than five glasses a week
Drinking more than five large glasses of wine a week can damage DNA and cause premature ageing, research suggests.
Scientists at Oxford University looked at data from 245,000 adults in the UK,
Magpie
comparing their drinking habits with a key biological marker of ageing.
They found that alcohol takes a toll on a section of DNA called a telomere – but that this kicks in only if people drink more than 17 units a week.
Telomeres are repetitive DNA sequences that protect the end of chromosomes. They naturally shorten as people age, a process linked to cancer and Alzheimer’s.
The Times, July 26
Pincher on not getting pickled
A campaigner has written to the editor of a magazine to complain about the inclusion of a wine column by local MP Christopher Pincher.
The Tamworth MP resigned as deputy chief whip when he “embarrassed” himself after drinking too much.
But despite being suspended by the party while an investigation into his conduct continues, his latest column in The Critic magazine has been published.
Headlined “How not to get pickled”, the MP discusses the merits of non-alcoholic cocktails.
Lichfield Live, July 27
Vegan wines booming at Virgin
Virgin Wines has seen a 51% jump in sales of its vegan wines in the last two years.
The retailer boasts more than 400 vegan-friendly wines. In 2021, Virgin sold 1,735,730 bottles of vegan wine, compared to 1,149,869 in 2019.
