17 minute read
price tag psychology
Ihave long been deeply distrustful of numbers. They’re supposed to be truthful but they’re not. The important thing is that they don’t really exist, they’re humans layering on meaning and symbol to pattern. This gets annoyingly metaphysical pretty quickly so best leave it there unless I need a neat line to finish this Amazing Lunch.
Numbers first started messing me about in 1989. Great Aunt Ina and one of the many John Rennies gave me a fiver to buy a battered half-chicken-supperlunch (the Lunch in question this month. I actually always make these columns about Lunches, you know, however well hidden they are.) This makes me sound like I’m from a family who go around handing out fivers for deep fried lunches, and I’m not, I’ll have you know. This John Rennie was almost the Lord Provost of Aberdeen or something! Not that there’s anything wrong with being from a family which hands out fivers for deep-fried lunches. Some of my best fivers/lunches have been deep-fried/Lord Provosts.
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I had “my fiver” in my chubby little seven-year-old hand and then I saw a necklace that was all glitzy in Esslemont & MacIntosh (ask your maw) for £3.99.
Can I have this glitzy necklace from Esslemont & MacIntosh, I asked my maw.
Well, you have the fiver that your Great Aunt Ina gave you for an atypical battered half-chicken-supper-lunch. Why don’t you use some of that money to buy the glitzy necklace?
Ha ha! Thought I, of course! My vast fiver will extend both to a glitzy necklace and uncustomary battered half-chickensupper-lunch! Woe upon woe when I was handed my pitiful change by Esslemont or MacIntosh. There’s been some kind of Vineyards in the Hunter Valley mistake! You’ve only given me a pound and a penny! Oh hang on a moment …
25. PRICE TAG PSYCHOLOGY
Retail Guru Phoebe Weller of Valhalla’s Goat in Glasgow can prove that £30 is actually more than £50. Confused? Don’t be, because numbers aren’t real
£3.99 is one of those magic prices, known by Retail Gurus such as myself as a Magic Price, which sounds a lot less than it is. Even now in 2023 (look at it, all pink and gurgling!) when there is literally no money at all it is literally no money at all. £3.99? Hardly worth even buying. Is it even real the thing that I am buying, does it even exist?
Early on in my “retail career” I decided against 99p. Don’t treat the customers like fools, was my thinking, they know what 99p is. All our prices are rounded square: .75, .50, .25, all rounded squares and very appealing. Especially .50 – but .50 can really emphasise the pre-point. £13.50 might as well be a hundred pounds. £12 is an excellent price, a mere bagatelle. Not as good as the increasingly elusive £10, although there’s something so dated about £10 these days. People probably think it’s an arbitrary number that should be £7.75 but you did the old Rounded Shunt. £20 is pure classic, a classic wine shop price. “It’s £20, great, I’ll take another bottle, something about the £10 mark, what about this one, it’s £12.”. Perfect. £30 is loads, actually more than £50. A thoughtful price, £30. I’ll think about that £30 bottle of wine, yes. “What about this one, it’s £50.” Perfect! £50 is £50 is £50 – although if you’re going to spend £50 you might as well spend £100. One hundred pounds is really only accessible if there is no pound sign preceding it or mentioned. I’m looking for something about the £50 mark. “What about this one, it’s a hundred.” Perfect, I’ll take it. £80 is a small fortune. £78 is literally all the money I have. But remember, numbers don’t really exist, which is handy.
Foraging in France
The French Connections tasting in London provides an annual opportunity to explore wines from producers who don’t yet have a presence in the UK market.
Here’s our admittedly subjective run-down of the best in show from last autumn’s event
It’s often remarked that wineproducing nations “keep the best stuff for themselves”, and that what we see in the UK, or other export destinations, doesn’t reflect the true breadth and excellence of what can be found in the country of origin.
Could that really be true of France, with its pre-eminent position at the quality end of the UK wine market, and its centuries-old association with our most distinguished importers? Surely, after all that time and effort, we can’t really be missing out on undiscovered gems?
Well, perhaps, and perhaps not; but France is a big country, and not every producer currently has an import partner in the UK.
That’s where Business France comes in. Every autumn it organises the French Connections tasting in London, part of a global initiative called Tastin’ France. It’s an opportunity to discover unrepresented producers, and to search out wines that have thus far eluded the UK’s independent merchants and sommeliers.
Could there be treats lurking this time around? Each visitor will have come away from the 2022 event with their own subjective take on that question; but here, for what it’s worth, are the wines that stood out for us on the day.
Champagne is always a good way to begin a tasting and the wines of DrémontMarroy, a family business in the heart of the Marne valley undergoing organic conversion, did not disappoint. Blanc de Méandre Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut has a real bite to it, its pared-down fruit balanced by a warm bready note. DrémontMarroy’s Blanc de Noirs Extra Brut is also enjoyably bracing.
Sommelier Mattia Scarpezza led a sparkling wine masterclass
Another house based in the Marne, Champagne Pannier, may age its wines in medieval cellars but its wines are thrillingly modern, its fresh Brut Selection standing out for its hint of salinity, and the Brut Rosé for its elegance and restraint.
Champagne did not have the monopoly on quality fizz, however. Domaine de la Bougrie, another family-owned producer, makes sustainable AOP Crémant de Loire wines as well as a selection of still wines that weren’t on show in London. Its zippy Extra Brut is perfectly poised, with apple and pear notes on the palate, while the Brut seems to have more of a mineral character, with a pleasing texture and a nutty finish.
One of the most alluring still wines from the Loire came courtesy of Domaine des Pierrettes in Rilly, another estate under organic conversion. Its Malbec, classified as AOC Touraine Amboise, displays a less showy side to the variety than we often experience in the UK, and could potentially find an appreciative audience in the independent trade.
Maison Colin Seguin, an interesting business working with a range of growers to produce AOP and Vins de France wines, brought along some stand-out wines. Roger Peguet Côte de Brouilly Chardignon is an energetic and invigorating example of modern Beaujolais.
Pas de Phyllades Syrah, meanwhile, a Vin de France from the Rhône made entirely from Syrah, is cool and elegant and nicely understated, with plum and damson notes. It’s exactly what some Barossa producers
On the hunt for undiscovered gems
would love to be making, if nature permitted.
Another Rhône-sourced Vin de France that caught the eye was Chai Saint Olive Viognier Cuvée 812, made in an urban winery in Lyon. Structured and serious, with keen acidity, it has definite Viognier character without being too peachy or rich.
Château MontPlasir classifies its white as AOP Côtes du Rhône Villages. An organic blend of Marsanne, Piquepoul Blanc and Viognier, it’s silky and tinged with apricot, but there’s a savoury element too that makes the wine quite moreish.
Also from the Rhône, Domaine de Maslauris’s L’Inopiné Blanc, made with organically-grown Roussanne, Vermentino and Grenache Blanc from the Luberon, is opulent and exotic, with rounded fruit flavours and a lingering finish.
Some of the wines on show in London were exactly what you’d expect to be served by the glass in a classic family restaurant deep in the French countryside. Domaine de Malartic Mosaic Dry White from Côtes de Gascogne is one such example, which is not to damn with faint praise. A blend of Colombard and Sauvignon Blanc, it’s a thoroughly enjoyable citrus-infused quencher that demands to be drunk outdoors, ideally over a lazy lunch on a terrace with a view of the Pyrenees.
The south west of France was also represented by some impressive Bordeaux wines, and perhaps the star was La Tourbeille Le Sceptre, a Bordeaux Supérieur with 12 months of barrel ageing. There’s lovely Bordeaux depth here, and rich black cherry fruit, but also a racy acidity that will work its magic as the wine mellows with age.
French Connections features wines from all across France
Producers whose wines were on show in London
CHAMPAGNE
Champagne Drémont-Marroy Champagne Pannier Champagne Philippe Dechelle Champagne Vincent d’Astree
LOIRE VALLEY
Domaine de la Bougrie Domaine des Pierrettes Maison Gandon
BOURGOGNE
Veuve Ambal
BEAUJOLAIS/VALLÉE DU RHÔNE
Maison Colin Seguin
RHÔNE VALLEY
Chai Saint Olive Château de la Font du Loup Château MontPlaisir Domaine de Maslauris
PROVENCE
D-Tox SAS
ROUSSILLON
Dom Brial
SUD-OUEST
Domaine de Malartic
GASCOGNE
Domaine Guillaman
BORDEAUX
Domaine de la Tourbeille Flavones Maison Le Star Vignobles & Châteaux Vignobles Fournier
SPONSORED EDITORIAL
A new era for Jascots
Recent investment means the London on-trade specialist is ready to broaden its offer to UK independents
Jascots has traditionally been an independent on-trade specialist, specialising in hard-to-find, directly imported, domaine-bottled wine from around the world,” explains managing partner Miles MacInnes.
“We’re now owned by Freixenet Copestick, which gives us some financial clout and some shipping efficiencies. But sourcing still remains independent. We’re still looking for really high-quality wine at all different price points, where we think the value is really exceptional.”
At the moment, just 7% of turnover comes from sales to specialist independent merchants. “And we would like to grow that, because we have a product range that has almost no exposure in the off-trade as a whole, and absolutely no exposure in multiple retailers. From a product point of view, we think that is a really good proposition for indie retailers.”
MacInnes adds: “We’re very London focused; 90% of our on-trade business is in London. We would like to find partners who are wholesaling as well as retailing in other parts of the country, where currently our range has no exposure.”
Jascots has traditionally been strongest in French, Italian and Spanish wines, but this specialism is broadening.
“The acquisition by Freixenet Copestick has made deep-sea shipping more affordable,” says MacInnes. “So we’ve built strength now in Chile, Argentina and South Africa; and we have growing strength in Australia and in New Zealand.
“The specialism we have is in sustainable producers from around the world. We’ve got a very high proportion of organic and biodynamic wines. We represent many wineries that have not previously had exposure in the UK and which are not of a scale to supply supermarkets.”
Independents who work with Jascots have access to the entire list, but won’t be embarrassed on price by other stockists, MacInnes insists. He points out that the client list includes more than 80
Michelin-rated restaurants.
“So if you’re an indie retailer, there’s a testimonial as to the quality of the wine based on who’s buying those wines already,” he says.
“And they are being sold out there for mark-ups that highlight the value in the retail trade, where there is very little exposure for our range, 80% of which is imported exclusively by us.”
Freixenet Copestick has recently invested in its own bonded warehouse in
Brackley, which Jascots shares.
“We’ll be able to offer UK-based in-bond stock of our entire portfolio, which is an exciting development for us,” MacInnes says. “We can be a bit cleverer with our stock holding and also our picking, so we can give people lower minimum order quantities and we can split pallets. I think that’s going to be a really important part of our offer.”
Jascots is not the first supplier to turn its attention to the indies, having built its reputation in the on-trade. But MacInnes insists the company is serious about developing this new strand of its business, and not merely sheltering from the economic storm that’s battering restaurants and bars.
“It’s very much a long-term strategy for us,” he says. “Frankly, in previous times the range was a bit limited, especially with new world wines – it’s expensive to ship from further afield. But as part of the new group, we’ve managed to reduce those costs quite significantly, so that indie retailers can now see we offer really good value.”
What does MacInnes think that Jascots’ on-trade customers would say about their experiences of working with the business? “The three things we hold ourselves to are flexibility, speed and reliability,” he says. “There’s great margin potential in our range. The quality is really good; the story is really good. And the sustainability credentials of the wines are really good.
“As people, we’re very open; we are straight down the line. We want to know what we can do to help and we want to add value. And that’s why we’re approaching the market at this time, in a more meaningful way.
“We think we’ve got a few ideas about why we might be able to add value for indie retailers and wholesalers. But we always have both ears open, we really want to get feedback, understand what we can do that would be most valuable for those customers – and then we seek to deliver against that.”
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For more information, visit jascots.co.uk 0208 965 2000 team@jascots.co.uk
Schloss Johannisberg, Rheingau
Alfred Gratien, Champagne
Garage Wine Company, Maule
“Garage is responsible for regenerating a lot of the rural area around its winery. They created a market for these beautiful wines, made from old vineyards that have been neglected, and they try to arrest that trend of the local community moving to cities to work for large corporates instead of working their own land. And the wines in the Garage range are sensational.”
Mastroberardino, Campania
Luna Austral, Uco
“A relatively new biodynamic producer. They’re making really amazing wines with a fresher and more European style. We were the first to bring the wines into the country about two years ago. The owner is hugely passionate about Château Cheval Blanc. One of his principal reasons for setting up a winery was to grow Cabernet Franc there – and their Cabernet Franc is fantastic.”
More than just desserts
The much-admired Sauternes producer Château Suduiraut has unveiled a trio of dry wines – and they are just as thrilling as the classic sweet wines on which its reputation was built
Château Suduiraut lies in the commune of Preignac, one of the five villages that make up the Sauternes appellation, south west of Bordeaux. Aside from the exceptionally gravelly vineyards planted mainly with Sémillon and a small amount of Sauvignon Blanc, the 17th century castle is also home to magnificent gardens designed by Le Nôtre.
Now Château Suduiraut has launched a range of new-wave dry wines to complement its classic Grand Vins Sauternes, and its “second” wine, Castelnau de Suduiraut.
This is a major development for the estate, whose prized dessert wines ensured it was awarded Premier Cru status in the 1855 classification, and a decision that will enable its winemaker and technical director, Pierre Montégut, to harness the potential of the vineyards beyond the sweet treasures he already produces.
When it comes to classic Sauternes wines, every vintage is in the hands of mother nature. Not every year produces conditions conducive to noble rot. That might sound like a disaster for a Sauternes producer, but it presents an opportunity for Montégut and his team, who have always recognised the opportunity to create highly individual dry white wines from this Grade A terroir.
There has also been significant investment in the winemaking techniques and winery equipment to enable this evolution of diverse wine styles from selected vineyard parcels, and the modernising of the dessert wine style to appeal to younger palates – and pockets.
The new range includes the subtle re-naming of the Blanc Sec de Suduiraut, which has now become Lions de Suduiraut Bordeaux Blanc Sec. Conceived in 2015, this dry white wine with a generous, fresh and fruit-driven style is crafted from a specific terroir in the vineyard with fine, sandy gravel deposits, where the vines are on average 20 years old.
These are the same plots that produce the château’s lighter liquoreux wine, Lions de Suduiraut Sauternes. The Lions de Suduiraut range now comes in two versions, a dry and a sweet, both with a unique style and personality: generous, bright, fresh and more rapidly accessible when young than the great wines.
Crafted in small quantities from a terroir ranked as a Sauternes Premier Cru in 1855, Château Suduiraut Vieilles Vignes Grand Vin Blanc Sec was created in 2020. The blend, mainly Sémillon rounded off with Sauvignon Blanc, results from a selection of fruit from old vines, whose average age is 45 years, from a small area dating back to 1855 in the heart of the property.
The year 2020 also saw the production of Château Suduiraut Pur Sémillon Grand Vin Blanc Sec, a 100% Sémillon created by AXA Millésimes’ managing director Christian Seely in partnership with Montégut. Another limited-edition wine made from strict selection of the best batches of fruit, it is a classic expression of Sémillon, which is so suited to the coarse gravel and sand of the estate.
“Since the launch of our first S de Suduiraut in 2004,” says Christian Seely, “we have been discovering the full potential of the 1er Cru Sauternes terroir of Château Suduiraut for producing top quality dry white wines with personality.
“We feel that the time is right for a strategic reorientation of our wine production to reflect this potential. Therefore, our three new dry white wine labels replace what has gone before and will be the basis for the future.
“Of course, the production of great vin liquoreux of the highest quality will be given the same priority as it has always been at Château Suduiraut. The Grand Vin Château Suduiraut Sauternes will continue to be made from the finest botrytised grapes from old vines at the heart of the estate’s vineyard. But we also believe the production of highly individual dry whites of the finest quality is a vital element in the future of this historic property.”
Published in association with Château Suduiraut Wines are available via négociants For more information visit www.suduiraut.com
Christian Seely
