5 minute read
Spain’s surprising region A bit wild, a bit traditional, but always progressive
When it came to the wines, The Oxford Wine Company’s Tom Brady sums things up nicely. “I was really impressed with a lot of what the wineries in Navarra are doing,” he says. “There’s a huge diversity in terms of growing and winemaking practices and there really is something for everybody, whether they’re socially, economically, ethically conscious, or like funky and new or more traditional expressions, or they just want to taste good wine.
“Our customer base is just as diverse, which makes the region an easy go-to option for our retail team.”
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The 10,000 hectares of Navarra stretch from the plains of the river Ebro in the south, to Pamplona in the north. Climatically, geographically and topographically diverse, this fascinating DO is home to a fantastically diverse range of wine styles.
A group of UK wine buyers recently visited Navarra and came home uniformly impressed by what they saw and tasted.
Sarah Helliwell, head of wine at Eight Stony Street and Wilding (pictured right), describes Navarra as “incredibly varied and evolving”. She adds: “It was one of the most interesting regions I have visited in a long while. Beautiful vineyards across so many microclimates, all with their own characteristics but a unifying sense of wildness and innovation.”
“The trip was wonderful, and a revelation in terms of changing my perception of what’s going on in the Navarra region,” adds Owen Morgan of 44 Group, the bar and restaurant operator.
“The winemaking, direction and thought processes across bodegas impressed me, from the traditional to the progressive.”
DO Navarra is made up of five subregions: Baja Montaña, Valdizarbe, Tierra Estella, Ribera Alta and Ribera Baja. Vineyards are everywhere – from the plateaux and plains to slopes that reach 700 metres above sea level. Morgan says: “We covered large parts of Navarra, from Ribera Baja in the south to Tierra de Estella in the northernmost part of the region. Seeing the snow-drenched Pyrenees while among the vines was wonderful: a stark contrast to the semidesert conditions in the centre of the region.”
In the vineyards, everyone noted the commitment by winemakers to the environment. “It was great to see several vineyards embracing organic and sustainability practices,” says Kelly Boss of StarmoreBoss in Sheffield. “This was apparent in co-planting techniques to protect vines and for irrigation. Regenerative farming methods were also being used. Bug hotels and bird boxes encourage wildlife and establish a balanced ecosystem within the vineyards.”
Wine consultant Isobel Salamon was also taken by the green ethos. “Bodega Ochoa particularly impressed with its ecosystem building with honey, herbs, almonds … this regenerative approach is something I’d want to shine a spotlight on when talking about Navarra,” she says.
Everyone had some favourite wines from the trip.
Helliwell says: “I was hugely surprised not only by the diversity but also the quality of the wines. I had envisaged a lot of Garnacha with some Tempranillo and Bordeaux varietals in the mix, but some of the stand-out wines for me were barrelaged Chardonnays and Syrah.
“The Chardonnays were amazing, I think some of the most memorable wines for me and definitely some which I will be enthusiastic to put in front of customers.
“With prices heading up fast across many regions, these are just an incredibly affordable option.”
Salamon – along with many – was blown away by Sierra Perra Garnacha from Bodegas Alconde. She also expressed a massive soft spot for the Finca Albert Late Harvest Chardonnay, which she says had amazing white choc chip macadamia cookie notes. “I was struck by the freshness of so many of the wines we tasted; so many of them were brilliantly alive and vibrant. It wasn’t something I was expecting.”
International stars Chardonnay and Syrah found favour time and again. “Across the region we were particularly impressed by the barrel-fermented Chardonnays and Syrahs,” says Brady. Boss adds: “I was surprised by the number of French varieties that are being planted and the use of new French oak barrels, which were highlights in the cooler climate to the north and allowed for some fresher expressions.”
Morgan at 44 Group says: “Bodegas Ochoa impressed me hugely in so many ways. The passion of Beatrice and Adriana [the winemaking sisters] was inspiring. The vision and direction is incredible. Bodega Caudalia impressed me so much that I have already progressed talks to bring certain bottlings into the country to get going on our wine lists. They’re making tiny quantities of Grenache but also mindblowing Syrah, all of which sing of the land.
“On a completely different tack, I fell in love completely unexpectedly with some barrel-aged Chardonnay at traditional producer Castillo Monjardin.”
The visit also made it very clear that pairing Navarra wines with food can be wonderfully memorable.
“We enjoyed a stunning foie and apple canapé with the Otazu Chardonnay… I can still taste the pairing now,” Morgan says. “At Ochoa we were treated to some hearty local chorizo and Navarra migas, with their Mil Gracias Graciano bottling, which was equally memorable.”
For Brady, “asparagus and Moreno y Caberzón Garnacha Blanca at Bodegas Alconde was heaven”. Boss picks out Bodegas Unsi’s sweet Dulce Garnacha, “paired with a sweet gingerbread biscuit, local to the area, and a salty goats’ cheese pairing with Chardonnay at Bodega Otazu”.
The number of female winemakers was a noteworthy feature of the trip. “Where there was a woman winemaker, the wines were consistently very good,” says Salamon. Morgan adds: “The number of female winemakers was refreshing, and something I feel the DO could really push into the limelight.”
Commenting on Bodegas Ochoa, Boss says, “Beatrice and Adriana have brought three generations of winemaking into the 21st century. Adriana has managed the seamless transition of traditional winemaking techniques and combined it with a modern approach to winemaking. There is no generational friction here, just quality wines that have an X-factor that runs through the portfolio.”
Navarra thrilled, surprised, and delighted the buyers in equal measures. Irresistible wines, dynamic winemakers and a strong environmental focus make it a region with great consumer appeal.
For more information visit navarrawine.com #navarrawines
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Raymond Reynolds Spring Tasting
A free-pour tasting designed to showcase the diversity and quality in the company’s portfolio.
Known for its Portuguese specialism, Raymond Reynolds also offers a range of wines from Spain and Germany. For more information and to register, email info@raymondreynolds.co.uk.
Monday, March 27
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Yapp Brothers & Clark Foyster Spring Tasting
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For more information or to register, email simon@yapp.co.uk.
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For more information and to register, contact tim@daniellambert.wine.
Wednesday, March 29
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Wines with “nothing taken out, nothing added, nothing changed” from 45 French producers.
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Registration information is available from claire.prothon@businessfrance.fr.
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Howard Ripley German Portfolio Tasting
This is the most comprehensive tasting of German wines in the UK, according to the specialist importer.
Join the team and their German winemakers for an afternoon of exploration.
Contact nancy.green@howardripley.com for more details.
Wednesday, April 12
No 11 Cavendish Square Chandos Street
London W1G 9EB