4 minute read
MICHEL CHAPOUTIER’S LOVE OF THE LAND
The Rhône Valley legend is proud to call himself a farmer first and foremost, and now owns estates in Roussillon, Provence, Alsace and Germany, among other locations
Founded in 1808, Maison M. Chapoutier has been passed down through the family for over seven generations. Today, the company is headed by Michel Chapoutier who, along with his dedication to biodynamic winemaking and his irrepressible joie de vivre, has ensured the Chapoutier name remains synonymous with iconic wines from the Rhône Valley.
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Taking the reins in 1990 aged 26, Michel was quick to innovate and expand beyond the company’s roots in the Rhône.
Chapoutier describes himself as a farmer rather than a winegrower, and the challenge of these vastly different terroirs appeal to his pioneering spirit.
He seeks to discover and reflect the full potential of his terroirs and let the soils express their true character to give the wines their signature style.
“Terroir is a combination of soil, climate
1
An exceptional Syrah with an ageing potential of up to 75 years, depending on the vintage. Described as complex, velvety and balanced with notes of raspberry and liquorice, this wine is from the Fac & Spera range. Translated as “Do and Hope,” Fac et Spera is the motto of Maison Chapoutier as well as the philosophy behind this selection of single vineyard biodynamic wines, created from the oldest vines.
2 Chante-Alouette
The Excellence range encompasses the wines made from several outstanding parcels. The grapes for this Marsanne were harvested from three different vineyards: Le Méal, Les Murets and Chante-Alouette. A brilliant green gold wine with aromas of quince, honey and ginger.
and man’s know-how,” he says. “Trying to get the best possible snapshot of a terroir is the art of the vintner. It’s not about making technical wines but serving the terroir. Allowing it to express itself truthfully. Man can make or destroy a terroir.”
From the Prestige range of appellation classics which showcase some of the family’s best vineyards and winemaking skills. These complex and nuanced wines are full of character. This organic Syrah is vinified and aged in concrete tanks, which enhances its subtlety and balance and sets it apart from other Crozes-Hermitage wines. It has an ample and rounded palate full of stewed fruits and vanilla.
An organic and biodynamic Viognier from the Alchemy range, this is a fresh and delicate wine. The notes of bergamot and flint stone, followed by more typical peach and honey aromas, are rounded off with a savoury finish.
A Côtes-du-Rhône made primarily with Grenache and Syrah, Belleruche is part of the Tradition range. These smooth, rich wines offer a wide palate of flavours and aromas, all true reflections of their appellations. Belleruche is powerful and fruity with silky, delicate tannins.
Preciso Primitivo Appassimento 2021
You can dry your grapes on straw mats or you can make it happen on the living vine, as is the case at this Puglian estate, where the stalks of mature berries are twisted to stop further nourishment. This creates a 30% reduction in liquid and a concentration of raspberry and cherry flavours, enhanced by a hint of blood and spice.
RRP: £11.99 ABV: 14%
Cachet Wine (01482 638877) cachetwine.co.uk
Finca Suarez Sémillon 2021
Four generations of the same family have tended the vineyards originally planted in what was effectively a desert in Paraje Altamira in the Uco valley. The Sémillon they make is as pure as the Andean air, with just 20% spending some time in French oak to smooth off some of the edges, harmonising beautifully with the citrus tang and stony minerality.
RRP: £24.50 ABV: 12%
Ucopia World Wines (01435 517080) ucopiawines.co.uk
M Chapoutier Monier de la Sizeranne Hermitage 2017
The Syrah grapes are sourced from a variety of sites across the region, making this an expression of winemaking artistry more than of a particular terroir. One sip and you feel yourself floating away, the elegance of the blackcurrant fruit and the gentleness of the tannins transporting you to your happy place.
RRP: £79.65 ABV: 14%
Hatch Mansfield (01344 871800) hatchmansfield.com
Pequeñas Fermentaciones Naranjo 2022
El Porvenir is experimenting with Salta’s possibilities with its Pequeñas Fermentaciones range. Here the blend is Torrontés and Moscatel, fermented in concrete eggs in contact with the skins. There’s a pretty, floral dimension to the wine but it’s the pithy grapefruit notes that really hit home.
RRP: £15.99 ABV: 12% Boutinot (0161 908 1300) boutinot.com
Pazo Barrantes Albariño 2019
Lots of Albariño producers are trying to replicate the Rías Baixas style, and perhaps they’re getting closer. So it’s interesting to see Pazo Barrantes moving the goalposts a little, with partial ageing in acacia and holding back the final wine for 16 months before release. It’s a rich, full-bodied and peachy iteration of the variety, but retaining the zip and vigour we love.
RRP: £50 ABV: 13%
Maisons Marques et Domaines (0208 812 3380) mmdltd.com
Château de Gardegan Côtes de Castillon 2020
This appellation, east of St Emilion, is attracting fans and wines like this help explain why. It’s authentically Bordeaux, with plummy, earthy Merlot flavours and some spice too. But what really strikes you is its easygoing freshness and drinkability – and, of course, the price. A lovely wine from a progressive producer.
RRP: £16 ABV: 12.5%
Walker & Wodehouse (020 7449 1665) walkerwodehousewines.com
Scheid Vineyards Ranch 32 Chardonnay 2019
From California’s Arroyo Seco AVA, this is a Chardonnay that most definitely isn’t aiming for the lean austerity that has become a little tedious in some outposts of the winemaking world. Instead it’s a crème caramel-tinged celebration of what made a lot of wine drinkers fall in love with the grape in the first place.
RRP: £19.99 ABV: 13.5%
North South Wines (020 3871 9210 ) northsouthwines.co.uk
Domaine de Castelnau
Garenne Syrah 2020
Sea breezes cool the vines on this former melon farm near Pézenas, where South African winemaker Francois Prinsloo puts the emphasis on freshness and not phenolics. He achieves his goal here deftly with a pleasing hint of plasticine sweetness, some enjoyable darker liquorice notes and a clean, red-berry tartness.
RRP: £11.99 ABV: 14%
Liberty Wines (020 7720 5350) libertywines.co.uk