the new faces of chablis

Are Focused On The Future

Arguably the most important factor in Chablis’ greatness is the region’s terroir. The fossil-rich clay and marl Kimmeridgean soils are 150 million years old. Cistercian monks arrived in the region in the early 12th century region and quickly saw the potential of the vines they encountered. We can all agree that Chablis’s origins are ancient, but Chablis is also forwardthinking and home to a motivated gaggle of “new face” winemakers.

Today, almost 25% of wineries in Chablis are being managed by youthful under-40s: they’ve travelled internationally, have a strong commitment to the environment and organic viticultural practices, and are benefiting from an increasingly balanced presence of female employees in both the vineyards and the wineries.

Armed with the knowledge passed down through the generations, determination to make their mark in the 21st century and a passion to protect what they have for their children’s children, the vignerons of Chablis are living exciting and dynamic times.

Take, for instance, the trio of siblings at Domaine de Chaude Ecuelle (above).

Guillaume Vilain studied at the Lycée Viticole in Beaune and was the first to join the family winery. His two sisters, Marianne and Marie-France, took more circuitous routes via the theatre and a career in audio-visuals respectively.

Now united, the siblings are focused on developing the estate that was founded by their great-great grandfather and his brother in the early 20th century. At this time the vineyard was planted for the purpose of making wine for the family alone, with excess being sold on. With each generation there has been an increase in estate bottling from their now 60ha-strong vineyard holding. The family is also keenly aware of its environmental responsibilities, which informs its choices in vineyard management and winemaking.

Another family that has pulled together to commercialise its own wines are the Robins, at Domaine Antoine & Laurent Robin (right).

Laurent had steadily increased the size of the estate, making astute purchases in the Grand Cru vineyards of Blanchot, Vaudésir and Bougros, as well as in the Premier Cru sites of Vaillons, Montmains and Montée de Tonnerre. Given the ingredients, it’s hardly surprising that when Antoine joined in 2018 (before Laurent’s daughter, and her mother, came on board in 2020), they took the decision to label the wines under their own name.

Léa Schaller joined her family estate in 2017 and embarked on sweeping changes. The property was given a name, Domaine Orion (inspired by a song by heavy metal band Metallica) and with it she labelled the family vineyard’s wine for the first time.

Schaller is one of an increasing number of viticulturists and winemakers in Chablis who are determined to secure the region’s resources for future generations. Consequently, she uses no herbicides in the vineyards, and takes a low-intervention approach to vinification in the winery.

It is producers and estates like these that are keeping Chablis in the forefront of the wine world. They are embracing the region’s enviable resources and working to preserve them for generations to come.

They are introducing new wines and interpretations to the consumer: increasing choice and variety. They are also bringing energy and new ideas and finding ways to add their stories to centuries of fine winemaking experience.