IRINA VON HOLDT REPORTS

Into the FUTURE

With the new year on us we look at two exciting and challenging wine categories taking our wine industry forward with renewed vigour

BY IRINA VON HOLDT CWM

We see a BLOSSOMING of unusual white varieties COMING INTO THE MARKET

Is wine for the élite, that is, exclusive and snooty? Or is it just like any other liquid that we pour down our throats without a second thought? Well, yes to both questions. Just as Humpty Dumpty told Alice that words can mean just what he chose them to mean, wine can be just what we want it to be, very exclusive or simply a regular glassful to accompany dinner or a hamburger. is wonderful drink can be whatever we want—while, of course, Coke can’t!

To the panel, however, it’s endlessly fascinating to see styles come and go (whatever happened to Bouquet Blanc?) while others slowly evolve into something considerably more interesting.

Without a doubt, the more you know the more you can enjoy. With some appreciation for the ner points of what’s in the glass, it’s much more fun. Rather like knowing something about vintage cars, for example. If we know how headlights evolved, we can date the models much more accurately. More info, more fun.

With this in mind, both this month’s categories—Unusual Whites and NonBordeaux Style Red Blends—deliver wines that are oen experimental and daring, sometimes brilliant, sometimes missing the mark, but always interesting and challenging.

THE ‘UNUSUAL’ WHITES

We see a blossoming of unusual white varieties coming into the market–Verdelho, Roussanne, Pinot Blanc and Grenache Blanc, together with old stalwarts like Pinot Grigio, Gewürztraminer and Viognier too. ere are now so many Viogniers it’s

hardly an unusual white anymore and we think it should be elevated to a category of its own.

“e Viogniers and Sémillons shine through,” from an enthusiastic Clive.

“Yes, but it’s very clear that with many of these 100% Viogniers they have to add acid,” says Claude, “and oen too much, as it masks the avours.”

WINES TASTED BY THE PANEL

UNUSUAL SINGLE CULTIVAR WHITES

WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: Idiom Viognier 2016 ALSO LIKED: Joostenberg Myburgh Bros Viognier 2017, Piekenierskloof Grenache Blanc 2017, Simonsig Gewürztraminer 2017, Simonsig Verdelho 2015 WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: Anura Reserve Viognier 2016, Bosman Fides Grenache Blanc 2016, Eagle’s Nest Viognier 2017, Hermanuspietersfontein Witbroodjie 2016, Overhex Balance Limited Edition Pinot Grigio 2017, Nuy Inspiration Colombar 2017, Paul Cluver Gewürztraminer 2016, Radford Dale Thirst Clairette Blanche 2017, Simonsig Grenache Blanc 2015, Simonsig Grenache Blanc 2016, Simonsig Verdelho 2016, Simonsig Verdelho 2017, Van Loveren Neil’s Pick Colombar 2017, Van Loveren Pinot Grigio 2018, Whalehaven Unwooded Viognier 2017

SHIRAZ

WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: Piekenierskloof Stone Dance Shiraz 2016 ALSO LIKED:Glenwood Vigneron’s Selection Shiraz 2016, Lyngrove Collection Shiraz 2016, Mount Vernon Three Peaks Shiraz 2017, Overhex Balance Winemaker’s Selection Shiraz 2016 WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: Almenkerk Syrah 2013, Almenkerk Syrah 2014, Bonnievale Barrel Select Shiraz 2015, Bonnievale Shiraz 2016, De Wet Shiraz 2017, Dornier Siren Syrah 2015, McGregor Shiraz 2016, Pearl Mountain Wagon Trail Shiraz 2014, Raka Biography Shiraz 2015, Strydom Rock Star Shiraz 2014, Van Loveren Tangled Tree Spicy Shiraz 2017, Waterkloof False Bay Old School Syrah 2017, Waterkloof Peacock Wild Ferment Syrah 2016

“At last I really like Viogniers,” adds Dave somewhat embarrassed. For a man who consistently said he really, really didn’t rate Viognier highly this is a big turnaround.

And Pinot Grigio? “ese are so boring and tasteless,” Irina grumbles. “I don’t know why anyone bothers to drink them.”

“In the UK it’s supposed to be a super quaer at £4.00 a bottle,” says Clive. “It’s not supposed to take your attention away from the food.”

But Irina is not having any of it. “What’s the point?” she says. “I’d rather drink good Cape mountain water.” Clive quips: “Yeah, but remember some people even like lettuce.”

ere’s the regular grumble about low alcohols. Not that we are against low alcohols per se, but rather against tasteless, unripe wine.

Winnie joins in: “ere’s a dierence between those with 11.5% and a proper low alcohol of 5 to 6%. ese are just detracting from drinking pleasure.”

“Let’s face it,” Irina says, “there’s a lot of interest in low alcohol wines now. We’ve seen some really good ones with

lots of avour, so it’s possible to do. You have to design it from the ground up, though, starting in the vineyard.”

e discussion moves on to the newer varieties and they’re found wanting.

“I nd the Grenache Blancs disappointing,” says Christine atly.

“And the single Roussannes and Verdelhos are really for blending,” says Irina. “ey each bring something, but they’re not complete wines.”

To sum up. Producers with something special work really hard at it, putting heart and soul into making good wines, but as they become less special over time so does the quality.

‘EXPERIMENTAL’ RED BLENDS Not exactly an experimental category, but there’s a lot of experimental blending going on here—Pinotage dominated blends, Cabernet blends and Rhône blends, at a quick glance. “Loads of interest,” says an elated Claude. “When I looked at the blends I thought they must simply be mixtures, but they aren’t, they really work.”

“I found a lot that are really dierent,” says Dave. “Quite obviously not Bordeaux-style and I like them.”

“But I liked those with Cab,” says Irina. “ey have backbone and focus. But then I love Cab anyway.”

“Nah, too much tannin,” says Dave. “I was charmed by these—they are savoury and spicy, with all sorts of lovely avours, and they’re inventive,” says Clive.

On another day we are less charmed. “A lot of thought went into these, but many are simply experimental,” says Colin.

“I had the impression that some of these winemakers started out with wines that had a problem and then tried to correct it by blending,” says Dave.

WINES TASTED BY THE PANEL NON-BORDEAUX BLENDS

WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: Alvi’s Drift Albertus Viljoen Bismarck 2015 ALSO LIKED: Alvi’s Drift Albertus Viljoen Bismarck 2014, Neil Ellis Aenigma Red 2015, Rickety Bridge Foundation Stone Red 2015, Rietvallei Shiraz Petit Verdot Viognier 2016 WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: Alvi’s Drift Albertus Viljoen Bismarck 2016, Bushmanspad The Menno 2015, DeMorgenzon Maestro 2015, Grangehurst Nikela 2007, Holden Manz Visionaire 2013, Joostenberg Estate Bakermat 2015, Leipzig Master Blend 2016, Leipzig SMV 2016, Metzer The Kitchen Sink Red 2016, Neil Ellis Rodanos 2012, Nietgegund Pro Amico 2013, Nuy Mastery Argilla 2015, Pulpit Rock Stories 2016, Romond Rebus Cape Cuvee 2011, Simonsvlei Hercules Paragon 2016

UNUSUAL RED

WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: Idiom Zinfandel 2015 ALSO LIKED: De Krans Tinta Roriz 2016 , Raka Sangiovese 2015, Rainbow’s End Cabernet Franc 2016, Stellenrust Cinsaut 2016

WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: Anura Grenache 2014, Anura Tempranillo 2014, Boer and Brit The General 2014, Bosman Twyfeling Cinsaut 2016, De Krans Garden Route Pinot Noir 2016, Dornier Malbec 2015, Fairview Petite Sirah 2015, Hermanuspietersfontein Swartskaap 2014, Idiom Sangiovese 2015, Môreson Miss Molly Huntress 2015, Overhex Balance Limited Edition Cinsaut 2016, Overhex Balance Limited Edition Malbec 2016, Overhex Balance Winemaker’s Selection Pinot Noir 2016, Waterford Grenache Noir 2015, Waterford Elgin Pinot Noir 2016

Producers with SOMETHING SPECIAL work really hard at it, putting HEART AND SOUL into making good wines

Colin: “I like it when winemakers blend fruity Pinotage with something less so.”

We get to that problem wine—Merlot… “When Merlot is added to the pot it ruins everything,” says Clive. “ose unripe tannins can spoil a blend very easily; even a relatively small percentage can ruin the entire blend.”

e variety that shines in red blends is Shiraz. But it must be admitted, not always. With its soer tannins and generous build, it is a perfect foil for adornments of Grenache, Mourvèdre, whatever. But Shiraz must be good. We’ve noticed a number of tough, uncharacteristic versions, however.

“Generally Shiraz dominates,” says Buks. “But it’s a nice domination. Not this time, though. at said, I did nd several Reserve-rated wines here, but not the show-stopper I was looking for.”

So here’s the thing. is is a high-quality category that is still in transition and evolving, with show-stoppers yet to come. Watch this space.

NOTE TO WINEMAKERS

Keep going, you’re doing great. We’re watching with great expectations and, oh, ditch the Merlot.

To purchase these wines and more, head to our website www.wineofthemonth.co.za

Nestled between Elim and Cape Agulhas, and just 9km from the sea, lies the secluded Strandveld Vineyards. Driven by a deep passion for premium quality wines and the spirit of discovery, Strandveld Vineyards stands proudly as the southernmost winery in Africa. Unique in every sense of the word, our wines re ect their wild origins of diverse terroir and a cool, maritime climate through remarkable complexity and singularity.

 is wind-swept winery derives its name from the belt of land which spans the tempestuous tip of Africa’s southernmost coastline. At almost 35 degrees below the equator, this part of our fair Cape is characterised by severe winds, billowing mist and below average temperatures. A unique combination of maritime climate, alternating sites and diverse soil types work together to create the terroir which distinguishes the wines of Strandveld Vineyards.