Winepress - December 2021 by Winepress Magazine

Winepress THE OFFICIAL MAGAZINE OF WINE MARLBOROUGH

ISSUE NO. 324 / DECEMBER 2021

AWARDS ROADTRIP

EVENTFUL TIMES

BOOMING DEMAND

LABOUR SURVEY

Photo: Jim Tannock

wine-marlborough.co.nz

20 12

this issue...

REGULARS

FEATURES

3 4 6

26 28 30 32

Editorial - Sophie Preece

From the Annual Report Tasman Crop Met Report Rob Agnew Generation Y-ine Johnny Valencia Biosecurity Watch Sophie Badland

Cover: DJ Boom (Fran Nolan) and Catalina Sounds winemaker Matt Ward prepare for Vinyl in the Vines at the Sound of White vineyard in the Waihopai Valley - one of the many summer events currently on the calendar. Photo Jim Tannock. See page 16

20 Wine Works

Industry News Wine Happenings

Wine Show The 2021 Marlborough Wine Show, sponsored by QuayConnect, was certainly a celebration of provenance, with trophies awarded within the vineyards, wineries and cellar doors the winning wines hailed from.

With up to 100,000 cases of wine ordered in a single day – double the typical expectation – WineWorks has been under the pump to get domestic and international deliveries out the door.

22 Labour Survey

Of the seasonal workers recruited for Marlborough’s 2022 vintage, 43% have no experience, 31% are returnees, and only 26% have more than one year’s vintage experience behind them.

Winepress December 2021 / 1

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General Manager: Marcus Pickens 03 577 9299 or 021 831 820 marcus@winemarlborough.nz Editor: Sophie Preece 027 308 4455 sophie@sophiepreece.co.nz Marketing and Communications: Sarah Linklater 021 704 733 sarah@winemarlborough.nz Events Manager: Loren Coffey loren@winemarlborough.nz Advocacy Manager: Nicci Armour advocacy@winemarlborough.nz Finance Administrator: Joanna May accounts@winemarlborough.nz Grape Grower Directors: Anna Laugesen anna.laugesen@xtra.co.nz Kirsty Harkness kirsty@mountbase.co.nz Michiel Eradus michiel@eraduswines.co.nz Nigel Sowman nigel@dogpoint.co.nz Tracy Johnston tracy@dayvinleigh.co.nz Wine Company Directors: Beth Forrest beth@forrest.co.nz Damien Yvon damien@closhenri.com Gus Altschwager gus@akwines.net James Macdonald james@hunters.co.nz Jamie Marfell Jamie.Marfell@pernod-ricard.com Designed by: Blenheim Print Ltd 03 578 1322

From the Editor When David Barnsley produced the first Winepress in August 1991, Marlborough was the third largest wine producer in New Zealand, with 1,432 hectares of producing vineyard. I know this because in August 2016, six months after I became editor, Winepress marked its 25th anniversary with a series of stories on its history, and even a little party. I think I will blame the complexities of Covid-19 for the fact that the magazine’s 30th birthday passed without mention in August, and certainly it’s been a year where it’s a constant struggle to keep stories up to date, let alone remember to celebrate.

“I think I will blame the complexities of Covid for the fact that the magazine’s 30th birthday passed without mention in August.” But the past few years have also been a time where the value of the magazine is reinforced, both in its ability to share common stories of adversity and unique tales of success, but also as a reminder of all the industry and its people have been through in the past 20 months. In the interests of ‘better late than never’ I’d like to thank David for establishing Winepress 30 years ago and growing it over his 13 years as editor, and to thank the marvellous Tessa Nicholson for her work as editor over the subsequent 11 years. I’d also like to thank Jim Tannock for his cover shots, which provide a stunning portrait of our wine region every month. I hope Winepress is still here telling the stories of Marlborough wine 10 years from now, when readers can look back at 2020, 2021 and 2022, and consider the extraordinary impacts of the ‘pandemic years’. SOPHIE PREECE

Disclaimer: The views and articles that

are expressed and appear in Winepress are entirely those of contributors and in no way reflect the policy of the Marlborough Winegrowers. Any advice given, implied or suggested should be considered on its merits, and no responsibility can be taken for problems arising from the use of such information. This document is printed on an environmentally responsible paper, produced using elemental chlorine free (EFC), third party pulp from responsible sources, manufactured under the strict ISO 14001 Environmental Management System and is 100% Recyclable.

Winepress December 2021 / 3

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From the Annual Report Stepping up to a challenging year TOM TROLOVE

AN EXTRAORDINARY year has passed in our global community, and there are many aspects we’d rather forget. But there have been stories of success, resilience and, yes, pivoting, that are certainly worth remembering. Marlborough’s wine industry has faced challenge after challenge, from shipping headaches and alert level changes to labour shortages and spiralling costs of production. In so many cases we have worked as a team to analyse situations and devise solutions that allowed us to leap, or sidestep, those hurdles. From contractors and suppliers to winery and vineyard teams; from labour companies grappling with border closures to seasonal workers so far from home; from innovative education providers to nimble management; and from industry bodies to boards of governance, the industry has forged ahead with strength and integrity. I would like to thank everyone who has stepped up for their planning, careful work and commitment. There have been plenty of personal sacrifices and extreme efforts in these extraordinary and trying times. Since the last report to our membership, we have experienced three lockdowns due to Covid-19: • August 12, 2020 – Marlborough moved to Alert Level 2, emerging on September 21, 2020, when we rejoiced and moved back to Level 1. • February 14, 2021 – Marlborough moved again to Alert Level 2, before moving to Alert Level 1 on February 18. • February 28, 2021 – Marlborough moved again to Alert Level 2 before moving back to Alert Level 1 on March 7. • August 18, 2021 – The whole country moved to Alert Level 4. On September 1, everywhere but Auckland moved down to Alert Level 3, and then to Alert Level 2 from September 7, where we remain at the time of writing. In each case the industry has faced up to the challenge with rigour and respect, and it does not surprise me that the Ministry of Primary Industries has been unable to fault individual efforts under the Essential Status exemptions granted to the wine sector. Thank you to our members for abiding so carefully to these rules. While we are fortunate to be in the middle of the country, away from a major gateway to New Zealand, it emphasises our careful approach and outstanding practices in Marlborough’s wineries and vineyards. 4 / Winepress December 2021

Supply chain disruptions have caused and continue to cause huge challenges, and limits to the free flow of people due to border closures have been incredibly frustrating. The seasonal winery labour force, which is essential to the annual wine production process and helped us get through vintage 2021, has largely disappeared, either by returning to their home nations or moving to other parts of the country or region. That means skills shortages are nearing the worst we have ever experienced. Marlborough’s 2021 harvest of 269,521 tonnes was down 21% on 2020, which reduced some of the vintage stress within wineries, but has led to serious supply pressure, with the first dip in export revenue for wine recorded in 26 years. This is a particularly frustrating set of circumstances as global demand for Marlborough wine, especially Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, surged in our key markets throughout 2020. It’s wonderful to know the world thirsts for our wine, but frustrating that yields and shipping constraints are limiting our ability to meet that demand. Your representatives on the Marlborough Winegrowers Association Board have also been living this reality for the past 12 months and are pleased to have played a key role in problem solving and working on strategic initiatives to strengthen the industry over the past year. Wine Marlborough has an ambitious strategy, and the board felt it was timely to review it during the challenges of the past 18 months. Jamie Fitzgerald of Inspiring Performance came in to review the strategy, and several subtle but meaningful adjustments ensued, giving Wine Marlborough staff a refreshed and refocussed effort. You can read the strategy on the opening page of the Annual Report, and your input is always appreciated. Marlborough’s most celebrated event, the Marlborough Wine & Food Festival, had a very challenging year. In September 2020, the board decided that the event would not be held for the first time in its 35-year history, and would be cancelled before tickets went on sale. This was to prioritise the health and safety of our community and wine industry, with the event on the cusp of harvest, which is the economic lifeblood of the region. The decision was

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well understood by all, and very well managed by the Wine Marlborough team. This year, the festival team have also had to find a new location for the 2022 event, after Brancott Vineyard informed the board of plans for significant developments. Upon discussions, both parties agreed that the site would therefore be unsuitable, and the event would need to find a new location. We would like to thank Brancott Vineyard for their incredibly generous gift to the Marlborough community and wine industry over the past 33 years, allowing such a special site to be the festival’s home. The board decided in September this year that it was viable to push ahead with the 2022 event, and the Renwick Domain was subsequently announced as the new site, with an excellent response from our community and patrons. We were lucky to be able to stage other key events for our members this year, such as the Marlborough Wine Show, sponsored by QuayConnect. While the Celebration Long Lunch was cancelled because of the Covid-19 Alert Level 2 restrictions, the competition was an opportunity to consider and celebrate Marlborough’s wines, with more gold medals awarded than any other year. We are so pleased that the Marlborough competitions for the Corteva Young Viticulturist and Tonnellerie de Mercurey Young Winemaker events could also go ahead. These are critical for our talent

From the GM Labour force challenges MARCUS PICKENS Providing relevant and timely information to the industry is a key role of the Marlborough Winegrowers board and Wine Marlborough. Despite having a small team and limited resources, we know the organisation provides value to our members. This was demonstrated particularly around the labour force challenges faced throughout the year. The drive is now on to recruit the additional people required for the 2022 harvest, and Wine Marlborough is playing a key role in this via supporting attraction campaigns, media messaging, remuneration surveys and vintage workforce demand and supply surveys. Supply chain issues, labour constraints and far higher costs of doing business have created an operating environment foreign to most. It will take great fluidity, careful decision-making and relentless support to navigate the next 12 to 24 months, as challenges seem set to continue for some time. It is important that all parties, growers, wine companies and our industry members understand the strains others are facing during these challenging times. And despite the myriad hurdles we’ve leapt in the

6 / Winepress December 2021

pipelines, and it is important we celebrate not only the ultimate winners, but all involved. Thank you to all our sponsors, committee members and contestants. Many other aspects of the important work that the board and small team at Wine Marlborough undertake are covered in the annual report, but as this is my last report as your chair representative, let me close with a few words. I have enjoyed my time on the board and am pleased with the transition towards a more strategic and focussed organisation. I am particularly pleased with the strides made towards creating both marketing and advocacy strategies. This will help focus the significant workload that comes with a small team representing a large membership and significant area of production. We aim to undertake an annual members survey to gather your feedback and use this to help measure and guide our progress for the future. On a final note, thank you to existing and recently departed staff for your contribution to our membership. Thank you to fellow board members, existing, newly elected and departing, who have given your time and contributions generously. Together, we can indeed make Marlborough the world’s greatest wine region. This Chair’s Report and GM Report ran in the Marlborough Winegrowers Annual Report, released at the AGM in November. Find the report at wine-marlborough.co.nz/news past 20 months, the Wine Marlborough team is excited about the year ahead. There’s nothing like missing a year of the Marlborough Wine & Food Festival to remind the industry and community of its value to the region, and we’re all delighted to have this iconic event back on the calendar. With more clarity coming from Government recently about the requirements for delivering large events, such as vaccination certificates, we are feeling hopeful that we can show off our region once again on this special day. Meanwhile, having run the Corteva Young Viticulturist and Tonnellerie de Mercurey Young Winemaker Marlborough competitions under Covid constraints two years running, we’re confident of our ability to adapt and deliver, regardless of the challenges. Covid-19 has shone a light on the resilience and collaborative spirit of our industry and the organisations that represent it, and it’s been a valuable reminder of what makes our wine community so good. Yes, we grow and make startlingly good wine that the world clamours for, but we also excel in working with our peers, scientists, and industry leaders to do better for our land, our environment, our people, our wine and our economy. And that hasn’t changed with Covid. Thank you to the Wine Marlborough team for digging deep and performing under such constraints. Finally, thank you to the Marlborough Winegrowers Board for your support, and in particular the board members who have finished their terms.

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Winepress December 2021 / 7

MET REPORT Air Temperature

Table 1: Blenheim Weather Data – November 2021 November Nov 2021 2021 compared to LTA GDD’s for: Month - Max/Min¹ 189.6 128% Month – Mean² 183.2 124% Growing Degree Days Total Jul - Nov 21 – Max/Min 407.4 120% Jul - Nov 21 – Mean 445.3 114% Mean Maximum (°C) 21.0 +0.5°C Mean Minimum (°C) 11.6 +2.1°C Mean Temp (°C) 16.3 +1.5°C Grass Frosts (<= -1.0°C) 0 - Air Frosts (0.0°C) 0 Equal Sunshine hours 2282 95% Sunshine hours – lowest Sunshine hours – highest Sunshine hours total – 2021 2321.3 103% Rainfall (mm) 14.2 28% Rainfall (mm) – lowest Rainfall (mm) – highest Rainfall total (mm) – 2021 633.2 107% Evapotranspiration – mm 126.7 104% Avg. Daily Windrun (km) 247.7 85% Mean soil temp – 10cm 16.5 +1.5°C Mean soil temp – 30cm 17.2 +0.6°C

Nov LTA

Period of LTA

November 2020

148.1 148.3

(1996-2020) (1996-2020)

156.7 145.9

339.1 391.4 20.0 9.5 14.8 0.49 0.0 239.6 158.9 322.5 2256.9 50.6 4.6 154.6 589.3 122.3 293.1 15.0 16.6

(1996-2020) (1996-2020) (1986-2020) (1986-2020) (1986-2020) (1986-2020) (1986-2020) (1986-2020) 1985 1997 (1986-2020) (1986-2020) 1930 1999 (1986-2020) (1996-2020) (1996-2020) (1986-2020) (1986-2020)

415.9 453.1 19.9 10.5 15.2 0 0 180.0

2346.7 81.8

438.6 105.4 197.9 15.7 16.5

¹GDD’s Max/Min are calculated from absolute daily maximum and minimum temperatures ²GDD’s Mean are calculated from average hourly temperatures November 2021 recorded a well above average mean temperature, below average sunshine hours, and well below average wind-run and rainfall.

Table 2: Weekly weather data during November 2021

The mean temperature of 14.3°C was 1.5°C above the long term average temperature (LTA) for November of 14.8°C. This is now the fourth equal warmest November on record for the 90 years 1932 to 2021. November 2019 is the second warmest on record with a mean temperature of 16.7°C. 2021 is the ninth year in a row (2013-2021) when the November mean temperature has been above average. The hottest maximum air temperature of 26.7°C was recorded on 29 November. (27.8°C on 27 Nov 2020) The coldest minimum air temperature of 6.3°C was recorded on 18 November (5.8°C on 28 Nov 2020) The coldest minimum grass temperature of 1.0°C was recorded on 18 November (3.2°C on 12 Nov 2020)

Soil Temperature On a number of occasions Met Report has included graphs that display the trend of increasing air temperature and decreasing number of frosts in Blenheim over the 90 year period 1932-2021. These graphs have provided clear evidence that Blenheim’s air temperatures have warmed up and that far fewer frosts are being recorded in the 21st century as compared to the mid-20th century. Air temperatures are one of the main drivers of the timing

Mean Max Mean Min Mean Rainfall Sunshine Wind-run (°C) (°C) (°C) Deviation (mm) (hours) (km) 1st - 7th 16.4 10.3 13.3 (-1.5) 0.0 28.0 219.6 8th - 14th 23.7 13.2 18.5 (+3.7) 3.0 56.8 244.6 15th - 21st 21.7 10.6 16.1 (+1.3) 5.8 73.6 311.9 22nd - 28th 21.0 12.0 16.5 +1.8) 5.4 49.5 232.6 29th – 30th (2 days) 25.7 13.0 19.3 (+4.5) 0.0 20.3 186.0 1st – 30th 21.0 11.6 16.3 14.2 228.2 247.7 November 2021 (+1.0) (+2.1) (+1.5) (28%) (95%) 85% November LTA (1986 – 2020) 20.0 9.5 14.8 50.6 239.6 293.1 LTA – Long Term Average

8 / Winepress December 2021

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of phenology of plants such as grapevines. However, one of the other main influences on phenology is soil temperature. With warmer air temperatures we would expect that soil temperatures would also show similar trends. Figure 1 displays the trend in the 30 cm soil temperature at the Blenheim weather station over the 36 year period 1986 to 2021. As is the case with air temperature, the strongest increase in the 30 cm soil temperature has occurred over

the autumn and winter, with the trend line indicating an increase of 1.34°C (autumn) and 1.55°C (winter). The increases in soil temperature over spring and summer are only between a 1/3 and a 1/2 of the increase over autumn and winter, as is the case with air temperature. However, we are still seeing quite a considerable advance in grapevine phenology over the spring and summer, as a result of the warming.

Figure 1: Blenheim’s seasonal 30 cm soil temperature trends (1986-2021)

Growing degree days With the November 2021 mean temperature being 1.5°C above average, the growing degree days (GDD) were also well above average. Only November 2019 has recorded higher GDD in recent decades. The black GDD line in Figure 2 indicates that after the first two months of the 2021/22 season (Sep-Oct) that the GDD line was slightly positive. However, the line climbed steeply in November 2021 so that at the end of the month the GDD line was at almost the same point as at 31 November 2020. With the current La Nina conditions that are present NIWA are highly confident that temperatures over summer (December 2021 to February 2022) will be above average; i.e. at the start of December they suggest that there is a

70% chance of above average temperatures in the top of the South Island and only a 5% chance of below average temperatures, over the course of the three months. NIWA are also drawing similarities between the current ocean temperatures around New Zealand and the marine heatwave that occurred in the 2017/18 season. The mean temperature from December 2017 to February 2018 in Blenheim was 1.8°C above the LTA. The 1.5°C projected GDD line from December 2021 to the end of February 2022 indicates that the GDD line would end up at the same point as at the end of February 2018. +1.0C would be at the same point as at the end of February 2019. With another relatively early flowering of grapes in 2021 we should anticipate a fairly early harvest in 2022.

Sunshine 228.2 hours of sunshine were recorded in Blenheim during November, 95% of the LTA. While this total was below the LTA, it was 48.2 hours above the November 2020 total. Total sunshine for the 11 months January to November 2021 was 2321.3 hours; 103% of the LTA of 2256.9 hours. In last month’s summary at the end of October I said that Blenheim was rapidly closing the sunshine gap on New Plymouth and that with two months to go Blenheim was only 7.5 hours behind, for the 10 months January to October 2021. It appeared as if Blenheim might take the lead in November and December and come out as sunniest town in 2021. Unfortunately Blenheim’s sunshine hours in November put a spanner in the works of that outcome. Blenheim recorded 39.2 hours fewer sunshine hours in November than New Plymouth. As a result New Plymouth has an almost unassailable lead at the end of November.

Rainfall Blenheim recorded 14.2 mm rain in November, 28% of the LTA. Total rainfall for the 11 months January to November 2021 is 633.2 mm; 107% of the LTA of 589.3 mm. January to November 2020 recorded 438.6 mm; i.e. January to November 2021 has recorded 194.6 mm more rainfall than the same period in 2020. Winepress December 2021 / 9

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Figure 2: Normalized growing degree days for Blenheim: days above (+) or below (-) the long-term average (1990-2020) for the period 1 September to 30 April

Soil Moisture Shallow soil moisture (0 to 35 cm depth) at the Grovetown Park weather station on 1 November 2021 was 35.5%, Soil moisture peaked at 39% on 29 October after the large dump of rain. 35.5% is the highest soil moisture at the beginning of November for the 20-years 2002 to 2021. The average value at the start of November (2002 to 2020) is 26.6%. With low rainfall and high evapotranspiration during November the shallow soil moisture dropped rapidly. On 30 November soil moisture had dropped to 20%; a loss of 15.5% during the month. The topsoil lost 75% of its available soil moisture during November 2021. This is the greatest loss in top soil moisture during November for the period 2002 to 2021. However, some other years have started November at a

much drier point than in 2021, and consequently some of those years have had lower soil moisture at the end of November, than in 2021.

Wind Run Average daily wind run during November 2021 was 247.7 km; 85% of the LTA wind-run for November of 293.1 km. Of the 11 months to the end of November 2021, ten months have recorded below average wind-run and only one month (September) has recorded above average wind-run. Rob Agnew - Plant & Food Research / Marlborough Research Centre

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Wine Show Taking trophies to the people SOPHIE PREECE

THE 2021 Marlborough Wine Show, sponsored by QuayConnect, was a celebration of provenance, with trophies awarded within the vineyards, wineries and cellar doors the winning wines hail from. With Covid-19 scuppering the show’s Celebration Lunch, Wine Marlborough staff and the show’s trophy sponsors travelled throughout the region to celebrate. The two days of visits, along with photos taken at every spot, were about “capturing the story, the people and the place” behind the wines, says Wine Marlborough events manager Loren Coffey. Of the 18 trophies awarded, seven went to wines produced this year, including the QuayConnect Champion Wine of the Show, awarded to Saint Clair’s Wairau Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2021, which also won the WineWorks Champion Sauvignon Blanc trophy. Saint Clair family members, along with senior winemakers Stewart Maclennan and Kyle Thompson, received the trophies at the Saint Clair Vineyard Kitchen. Managing director Neal Ibbotson, who calls the Saint Clair Wairau Reserve Sauvignon Blanc the company’s “flagship wine”, commended Stewart and Kyle, along with the wider winemaking, viticulture, cellar and administration team. “Without this team of amazing people, we would not have been able to achieve success such as this. It is a huge honour to be part of such an amazing story.” More than 540 wines were judged by a panel of 10 in October, with chief judge Ben Glover describing the line-up as exceptional. “The 2021 and 2020 wines were stunning. All the judges thought it was one of the best line-ups they have seen.” The 2020 Pinots were “just beautiful” and the 2021 Sauvignon Blancs “out of this world”, he says. “The concentration, the poise, precision and depth of styles showed the quality of this year’s vintage.” 12 / Winepress December 2021

Saint Clair winemaker Stewart Maclennan with the trophy for QuayConnect Champion Wine of the Show. Photo Richard Briggs

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Two new trophies were awarded for the first time this year: the WineWorks Champion Alternate Style Sauvignon Blanc won by Sound of White “Barrel Fermented” Sauvignon Blanc 2019; and the Vit Management Ltd Best Organic Wine, which went to Giesen Single Vineyard Clayvin Pinot Noir 2017. The Coterie Provenance Award, recognising the best single vineyard current release from any class, was awarded to Brancott Estate Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2021, grown at Triplebank Vineyard in the Awatere Valley. The Marlborough Museum Legacy Award is awarded to the wine producer with the highest scores from three vintages within a 10-year period, and went to Framingham Select Riesling, 2011, 2016 and 2019. Ben says this was an exceptional category to judge and the winning wine was a special example of Marlborough Riesling. WineWorks Marlborough general manager Damien Gillman - who presented the WineWorks Champion Sauvignon Blanc Trophy and the WineWorks Champion Alternate Style Sauvignon Blanc trophy - says it was a memorable way of awarding the wines. “The Saint Clair team are our neighbours in Riverlands Estate, so it was extra special to award them the trophy in the beautiful setting of their cellar door restaurant,” says Damien. “I headed up the Waihopai to Catalina Sounds the day before,” he adds. “It’s a picturesque spot and easy to see why such a beautiful place produces such beautiful wine.” Loren says the two-day “event” was a wonderful way of celebrating the winning wines and the people and places they come from. “We have been to some beautiful places and captured some different sides of the industry, which has showcased the diversity of our amazing region.” To read more about the winning wine companies, check out Wine Marlborough's Facebook page over the next month.

CELEBRATE

Trophy Winning Wines Vitis & Winemaking Champion Sparkling Wine Tohu Rewa Methode Traditionnelle Blancs de Blancs 2015

Trophy Winning Wines WineWorks Champion Sauvignon Blanc Saint Clair Wairau Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2021

WineWorks Champion Alternate Style Sauvignon Blanc Sound of White 'Barrel Fermented' Sauvignon Blanc 2019

MRC Champion Wine Chardonnay Champion Sparkling

Classic Oak Products Champion Pinot Noir

Traditionnelle Blancs de

Saint Clair Pioneer Block 15 Strip Block Pinot NoirSteve Austin presents the Marlborough Museum executive director

Isabel Estate Marlborough Wild Barrique Chardonnay 2020 MRC Champion Chardonnay 2019 & Older 2020 Mount Riley 17 Valley Chardonnay 2019

Legacy Award to the team at Framingham. Photo Richard Briggs

Label & Litho Champion Pinot Gris

Scenic Hotel Marlborough Champion Rosé

Champion Pinot on Sauvignon Blanc Riverby Estate Rosé 2021 Noir Stoneleigh Latitude Pinot Gris 2021 Classic Oak Products 2019 & older serve Sauvignon Blanc 2021 Vit Management Ltd Best Organic Wine De Sangosse NZ Champion Riesling

Giesen Single Vineyard Clayvin Pinot Noir 2017 Wairau River Estate Summer Riesling 2021 Marisco Vineyards The King's Wrath Pinot Noir

2019 Wine Style Brokers New Zealand Champion Gewürztraminer on Alternate Lawson's Dry Hills Gewürztraminer 2019

The Coterie Wine of Provenance Brancott Estate Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2021

Marlborough Museum Legacy Award Barrel Finance & Logistics Champion Sweet Wine Wine Marlborough Champion Other Red Framingham Select Riesling 2019 Varietal Framingham Select Riesling 2016 Move Freight Champion Other White Varietal Select Riesling 2011 Wairau River ReserveFramingham Syrah 2020 Wairau River Reserve Grüner Veltliner 2021

el Fermented' Sauvignon Forrest Botrytised Riesling 2018

rdonnay Classic Oak Products Champion Pinot Noir Wine of the Show Scenic Hotel Clair Pioneer Block 15 Strip Block Pinot Noir 2020Marlborough Champion Rosé ough WildSaint Barrique QuayConnect Champion Wine of the Show Riverby Estate Rosé 2021 Classic Oak Products Champion Pinot Noir 2019 & older Marisco Vineyards The King's Wrath Pinot Noir 2019

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Winepress December 2021 / 15

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Eventful Times Ready for Marlborough’s first traffic lights STEPHANIE MCINTYRE

CATALINA SOUNDS has been producing award-winning Marlborough wine since 2005, but it took a pandemic for them to open their gates to the public. “We’ve been talking about hosting an event at our Waihopai Valley Sound of White Vineyard for a couple years now,” says marketing manager Madison James of the upcoming Vinyl in the Vines event. “Now that we have robust safety measures in place,

mid-week twilight markets and Saturday morning yoga. “We opened the doors to our new cellar door and event facility just as Covid arrived to our shores. It has of course added complexity to the day-to-day operation, but being flexible and open to change is integral to any successful business,” says Sarah Fix, Rock Ferry’s cellar door and marketing manager. “We listened to the community and enjoyed

“This region is too special to consider hibernation.” Samantha Young we look forward to providing a much-needed afternoon of sunshine, seasonal cuisine, music, and laughter.” They’re just one of several wineries planning to add a dose of fun and frivolity to Marlborough’s summer season, after the cancellation or postponement of many events in recent months due to Covid-19 restrictions and risks. “Community events are the trickiest with multiple entry points,” says Samantha Young, regional events advisor for the Marlborough District Council. “There will be a summer of activities; organisers are keen to make it happen - it might just look a bit different.” Rock Ferry has continued to operate small events over the past year, and has swapped its solstice evenings for

creating activities that would enhance their week.” Returning this summer to Clos Henri Vineyard is the South Island Cheese Festival, thanks to the overwhelming success of its inaugural year, says founder Hannah Lamb of Cranky Goat Cheese. The event will be ticketed for tracking and planning purposes and organisers have extended its food and beverage repertoire to cater for more than 3,000 guests. Hannah feels confident that Covid regulations, under the green or orange light level, will not impact on guest experience. “We won’t be able to run workshops in the vineyard chapel this year, but we will instead utilise the deck as a stage for an awesome local musician, Emile.

Members surveyed about appetite for events Wine Marlborough is surveying its wine company and grape grower membership. “We want to know the level of support, tolerance or concern when it comes to gatherings around the region,” says Wine Marlborough general manager Marcus Pickens. “For example, some people might be happy with the idea of a locals-only event of a few hundred people, but fear the consequences of thousands of visitors arriving in the region as we prepare for the biggest few weeks of the wine calendar.” He says the information will be used in Wine Marlborough’s consideration of potential events, and could be shared with other organisers, to give them insights into the wine community’s perspective. “This could be a useful tool for designing events that support Marlborough as a destination and community, but also protect our wellbeing and economy.”

16 / Winepress December 2021

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Vinyl in the Vines STEPHANIE MCINTYRE Lawson’s Dry Hills and a trio of DJs turned the tables on pandemic postponements last summer, with the creation of Vinyl in the Vines. With a focus on music and record swapping, alongside great wine and food, Vinyl in the Vines has provided a template for a premium family-friendly event that could ‘pop up’ at like-minded venues. Currently the collective’s co-labs include 5Tapped, Framingham Wines and Catalina Sounds. “We have a great format that lends itself to lots of different venues,” says founder Belinda Jackson of Lawson’s Dry Hills. “We’re excited to play some unexpected spots locally and to take it on the road to complement other great events.” Catalina Sounds is “pumped” to be the first guest winery to host Vinyl in the Vines, says marketing manager Madison James. “It is such a spectacular spot that many Marlburians aren’t even aware of. We can’t wait to host Vinyl in the Vines.” The event fits well with Catalina Sounds “and our love of premium food and beverage”, she says. “Add friends, family and great music and it’s a recipe for the perfect Sunday. The only challenge I foresee will be keeping our winemaker behind the Catalina bar as he’ll be wanting to pull out his own guitar, I suspect.” Catalina Sounds’ Sound of White vineyard is nestled in the Waihopai Valley, west of the spy balls and 25 minutes from Blenheim. Its expansive vineyard verge will cater well to the social and relaxed styling of Vinyl in the Vines with its main lawn area featuring a stage and adjacent deck which will play host to DJ Boom, Mr Slice and Dai as well as a dance floor. “We’ve arranged for outdoor tables and ‘make your own’ picnic areas, plus a family games zone,” says Madison. “We’ve increased the footprint of previous Vinyl in the Vines and have invited a few like-minded partners to the afternoon.” Food trucks will include (DJ) Boom Chef with Cloudy Bay Clams, Beat Kitchen from Nelson, and Marlborough’s newest foodie, L’il Orbits (fresh hot mini donuts). Catalina Sounds and Lawsons Dry Hills will both be serving a range of their wine, whilst Deep Creek Brewery and Roots Gin will offer a selection of craft beer and gin-based cocktails. Marlborough Tour Company will provide buses for the day and, booked in advance, can offer return or one-way tickets. Jim Tannock, DJ Mr Slice, says, “we’re giving locals a reason to stay in town this summer”. Tickets available at undertheradar.co.nz

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“We listened to the community and enjoyed creating activities that would enhance their week.” Sarah Fix People will naturally sit in their bubbles whilst enjoying their picnics on the lawn, and vendors will be located in a manner that will allow guests to social distance as required.” The 2022 South Island Cheese Festival will incorporate nine cheesemakers, two food trucks, three small goods purveyors, a coffee cart, Clos Henri wine, and Peckham’s Cider.

Save the Days • Every Sunday - Sunday Sessions at Forrest Estate • Second Wednesday of the month until March 9 Rock Ferry Twilight Market • December 26 - Braai BBQ on Boxing Day, Fromm Winery • January 23- Vinyl in the Vines, Catalina Sounds • February 12 - Marlborough Wine & Food Festival, Renwick Domain • February 13 - The Marlborough Wine & Food Wind Down, Framingham Wines • February 18 - Nuits Romantiques at Clos Henri (outdoor movie) • March 4 - 10th Annual Harvest Concert, Framingham Wines • March 5 - Jacksons Road Summer Vines, various • March 12 - Havelock Mussel & Seafood Festival, Havelock Domain • March 19 - Gintastic Marlborough, Pollard Park • May 6 - Feast Marlborough’s Friday Night Feast Find all the details at www.follow-me.co.nz

Feast Marlborough’s Friday Night Feast began in 2018, with a small footprint in Blenheim’s Forum, and has gone from strength to strength each year, extending its reach to the surrounding Market and Wynen Sts on the eve of the Saint Clair Vineyard Half Marathon. The event brings in New Zealand’s best chefs and radio personalities to join the party. Coordinator Amanda McRae says the committee has only just begun discussing opportunities for next year’s event, “but we are excited to build on the success of previous years”. Amanda is also lending her skills to Jacksons Road Summer Vines, which launched last year under the Summer Feast series, featuring a range of live music to accompany guest food trucks and local wine. The collaborative event has been refined and will showcase the best of Jacksons Rd, including Jackson Estate, Cloudy Bay Vineyards, Allan Scott Family Wines and Moa Brewery. “We are really excited to do this again, last year was a blast,” says Nicole Taylor of Jackson Estate. “The venues along Jacksons Rd are all amazing – the wine, the beer, the food and the music…you do not want to miss this.” Samantha – who works closely with Marlborough event organisers and supports them with an online tool kit and advisory service – says it’s important that Marlborough remains active in the events scene. “This region is too special to consider hibernation. We must work together to ensure our community remains vibrant for both locals and visitors alike.”

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18 / Winepress December 2021

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Cautious approach to Wine Festival The Marlborough Wine & Food Festival is back on the calendar for February 12, 2022, but the safety of vintage remains the “absolute priority”, says Wine Marlborough general manager Marcus Pickens. “We are full steam ahead with planning, with some fantastic bands, chefs

harvest period. We had no regrets about that decision, not least because the wine industry is the lifeblood of Marlborough’s economy. While a cancelled event is a bit gutting, a cancelled harvest is unfathomable for our membership, the wider community and New Zealand at large.”

“While a cancelled event is a bit gutting, a cancelled harvest is unfathomable for our membership, the wider community and New Zealand at large.” Marcus Pickens and master classes lined up, alongside good support from wineries,” he says. “It’s been really amazing to have so many wine companies keen to get back on deck, having missed the festival last year, due to Covid-19.” However, he says the festival team are keeping a close eye on the risks of Covid-19 to the 2022 harvest, and will prioritise vintage over the festival. “Last year the board made the really tough decision to cancel the event because of the risk it posed to our membership at the vital

With one eye on the risks of Covid-19, the other is on creating a fantastic event, to baptise the festival’s new location at the Renwick Domain, he says. “Brancott Vineyard has been a wonderful platform for the festival for decades, but we’re pretty excited about showing our festival fans a new corner of Marlborough, in the heart of wine country.” marlboroughwinefestival.com

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WineWorks

“I never expected in my wildest dreams that orders would increase this much.”

Wine demand going “bonkers” SOPHIE PREECE

WITH UP to 100,000 cases of wine ordered in a single day, WineWorks has been under the pump to get domestic and international deliveries out the door. That’s up from the 45,000 cases they can typically handle in a day, putting the dispatch team more than a week behind schedule in late November, says Damien Gillman, general manager for WineWorks Marlborough. “I never expected in my wildest dreams that orders would increase this much,” he says. “We have some big decisions we need to make.” Damien says the company is dealing with huge complexities, thanks to a combination of massive export demand – complicated by an early and light vintage - and unreliable supply chain logistics. “Vessels are coming and then don’t come into port or come in early so the cut-off times change. That’s made it really difficult this year and has

Damien Gillman affected our ability to deliver to domestic customers as well.” Burgeoning export demand has been exacerbated by unprecedented domestic orders, driven by Aucklanders in lockdown. “Our e-commerce platforms have gone bonkers”, says Damien, admitting that if he had “a degree in hindsight”, he would have made the call at the start of October to simplify WineWorks’ services, “because we’re not necessarily set up to deal with this level of complexity”. That might have meant sending wine by pallet to a vendor, to be distributed from there rather than directly to customers. And it would mean not being able to service

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wine clubs, with bespoke wine packs that require huge labour input for distribution, says Damien, comparing the two days it might take to pack 10 mixed pallets, compared to more than 50 pallets packed in a few hours for a standard order. “That’s some of the challenges of domestic market versus export,” he says. “But we wanted to be everything to everyone. That’s why we are a week to 10 days behind, which is not ideal. In future, we’ll ensure we can either cope with this demand or advise our clients of what we can achieve in advance.” WineWorks’ bottling year goes from July to June, and typically half of the orders are sent out in the first six months, including the “big, long runs of Sauvignon” in spring. A typical year will also see export orders slow during December, giving WineWorks that month to address the domestic Christmas rush, before focussing on smaller varieties and alternative styles in February and March. In contrast, the company is looking at having 67% of its forecast volume sent out by the end of the year, with export orders continuing up to and throughout the Christmas period. The day before Damien was interviewed, WineWorks Marlborough had orders for 97,000 cases, up from the typical movement of 45,000 cases a day. Staff and facility limitations mean that single day’s order would take two days to process, says Damien. “We have always been in the situation here we expect our dispatch team to handle what comes in on a daily basis. We have never had to plan

“Vessels are coming and then don't come into port or come in early so the cut-off times change” Damien Gillman the demand for resourcing in the warehouse.” Another “piece to the puzzle” is trying to attract and retain the staff they need, which is “incredibly difficult”, he says. “It gets to a point where you can only have so many people working in an area safely.” The company employs 185 staff and normally works 24 hours a day, five days a week. It has brought in a Saturday shift to try and keep its head above water, but they have to ensure the people they have, with the capabilities they need, are not under too much pressure and not working too many hours, says Damien. “No-one wants to be asked, ‘why can’t you get this out?’… We have lost a few people for that reason.” Meanwhile, the company has been at pains to communicate with clients, going from weekly updates to daily ones, says Damien. “We know Christmas is coming. We are trying to communicate with clients and be honest about it.”

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Vintage Workforce Cellars short of staff and experience SOPHIE PREECE

MARLBOROUGH WINERIES had 466 vacancies for vintage roles as of November this year, comprising a third of the necessary labour force for the 2022 harvest. Of the seasonal workers who have been recruited, 43% have no experience, 31% are returnees, and only 26% have more than one year’s vintage experience behind them, according to the Marlborough Seasonal Labour Update. That’s a major challenge for wineries to face, says Wine Marlborough advocacy manager Nicci Armour of the “largely inexperienced” workforce. “There is some clear feedback that it’s impacting workflow and impacting safety,” she says. “And it means there is a really strong focus on training.” The seasonal labour update, which is focussed on the 2022 vintage, was completed in October and again in November, with 30 of Marlborough’s 53 physical wineries – or 85% – completing a short survey each month. The November report says in a typical vintage there are at least 2.5 experienced staff members for every inexperienced one, but in 2021 the ratio was 1:1, and 2022 is looking even worse. “It is very likely that the number of inexperienced staff will significantly outweigh the number of experienced staff in many Marlborough wineries for V22.” Vintage work in New Zealand typically attracts a workforce of experienced international cellar hands, but they have been unable to come into the country since Covid-19 led to border closures. The recently announced plan for a reopening of borders offers little light for wineries seeking staff for the 2022 vintage, with the border to open to double vaccinated New Zealand citizens and visa holders coming from Australia early next year, then to Kiwis coming from other parts of the world. The doors don’t open to other vaccinated visitors, including international wine workers, until the end of April. New Zealand citizens and residents make up nearly 60% of the vintage workforce recorded in the November survey, including both permanent and seasonal staff. That number is likely to increase as the final third of the workforce is recruited, says Nicci. 22 / Winepress December 2021

Paul Sutherland Photography

Rose Family Estate winemaker Nick Entwistle says the company is “pretty much done” with its recruitment drive, thanks in part to its ability to shift people from its bottling line into the winery at vintage, as well as three cellar hands returning from the 2021 harvest. The new crew includes some international workers in the country since Covid hit, but he says most experienced cellar hands seem to have left the country, and their recruits come from other industries, such as hospitality. Nick says the wine company’s experiences align with the survey results, with a 2021 team that was 50% experienced and 50% inexperienced. “This year it is a lot more. I think nine out of the 12 are inexperienced,” he says, noting that in a typical year the winery would accept a maximum of two inexperienced cellar hands. They have prepared over winter, growing efficiencies, planning structured training, and increasing communication flow, so the newcomers can easily seek help if required. A single large induction session will be replaced with smaller groups trained in specific tasks, so staff can “master one thing” rather than move between tasks, he says. They will also bring some workers in early – including a few school leavers taking a “gap year” – to ensure more familiarity with the winery. Progress has been made by Marlborough wineries since the October 2021 survey, when just half of the workforce had been recruited. But Nicci says that’s of little comfort to companies facing the looming vintage without the staff they need, with a trend for smaller wineries to be struggling the most in terms of recruitment. “Those wineries, while they have a smaller labour force, also feel the effects of one or two people absent from the labour force more than the bigger wineries,” she says. Meanwhile, some wineries seem quite “comfortable”, she adds, reflecting optimism in some quarters. “That’s probably the striking thing. It’s still really variable. Some wineries are doing better than others.”

PROTECT

Attraction Action Putting wine industry opportunities centre frame SOPHIE PREECE

Ajay Munde at Matua. Photo Richard Briggs

A RECENT photo shoot in Marlborough wineries captured the excitement and camaraderie of wine work in the heart of New Zealand’s industry. “It’s easy to see why you’d come here for a classic harvest experience,” says Wine Marlborough marketing and communications manager Sarah Linklater, who visited wineries with photographer Richard Briggs. “Vintage is memory-making stuff, with a diverse team of people transforming just-plucked grapes into world-class wines in these key few months of work.” Wine Marlborough advocacy manager Nicci Armour says the region still needs to recruit hundreds of cellar hands for the 2022 harvest (see page 22) and input from wine companies was that an attraction campaign should be based on the buzz of vintage and the diverse community of workers that come together to build a team at a unique and vital period of the year. They wanted to catch the attention of young people taking a gap year before university, or an OE in their own country, as well as those looking for a new career in a vibrant industry. “It’s really about capturing that energy and sense of teamwork from vintage, as well as the diversity of those teams,” says Nicci.

The Marlborough-focussed photos and stories will come under the umbrella of the New Zealand Winegrowers and Government-funded Opportunity Grows Here campaign, says Sarah. “This will help develop a clear, consistent Marlborough story that resonates with people in our seasonal labour market, complements the story of our Marlborough wine region, aligns with our Marlborough identity, and supports national industry objectives.” Matua Wines cellar manager Joaquín López García says despite the short, sharp nature of harvest, Marlborough’s vintage retains the “romanticism of making wine”, the “celebration of harvest”, and potential for a lot of learning. The company remains positive about its ability to recruit for the 2022 vintage, “but we need to be very, very resourceful”, he says, noting that the industry has gone from having “an endless pool” of candidates to choose from for harvest, to one where it has very few, and needs to seriously focus on recruitment. That’s best done on a personal level, rather than recruiting in bulk, Joaquin says. “To take the time to see what people need for their work experience, and go from there.”

Survey reveals increasing labour costs Winery wages have skyrocketed in recent years, with 2021 harvest rates more than 16.8% higher than 2018, due in part to increases in the minimum wage. According to the Wine Marlborough Harvest Remuneration Survey, harvest 2021 wages were 5.5% to 6.2% higher than planned, and harvest 2022 wages are planned to be 4.6% higher than 2021. Experienced staff had the biggest increase in wages, up 8.6% to 10.7%. They were also less likely to have capped hours, with the report revealing that six-day weeks are increasing, but are less consistent across higher experience levels. Experienced staff have become an even more valued and relied upon resource, with the survey showing that the 2020 ratio of experienced vintage staff to inexperienced vintage staff was 2.4:1, but moved to 1:1 in 2021. “Operations of two thirds of wineries were impacted by changes in experience levels,” the report says, revealing “greater responsibility for experienced staff”. This year’s harvest saw an average of 40.4 total staff per winery, with 33.1 on fixed term/casual contracts and 9.1 permanent employees. That meant 185 tonnes per staff member in 2021, which was significantly lower than 2020. In 2022, wineries plan to average 42.3 total staff over harvest, with 32 fixed term/casual staff and 10.3 permanent, which is 249 tonnes per staff member. The remuneration survey also reveals that the number of Kiwis in fixed term/casual contracts in the 2021 harvest was up 240% on 2020.

Winepress December 2021 / 23

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Local Expertise Contracts, Risk, Tax, and Cash flow ROSIE JARVIS

AS GRAPE prices and grape demand continue to climb, growers with contracts up for renewal are faced with big decisions. Do they negotiate and renew the current contract, seek a new contract with another winery, take a risk with no contract and look to sell to the highest bidder at harvest, or look for a lease arrangement? The answer will likely be determined by your appetite for risk and the stage you are at in your grape growing career. Having a contract in place, or a lease, provides more certainty of income - and the timing of it - and allows more opportunity to plan for your cash flow requirements and plan your taxation commitments. It is also important to consider how the bank would feel about the lack of a contract or a lease arrangement. You will need to consider which terms of the contract are important to your particular operation, and negotiate favourable terms, particularly around payment timing. It might be better accepting slightly less per tonne if the payment terms mean you are paid earlier or get larger amounts earlier. Payments prior to known tax or GST dates can be helpful for cash flow. If grape payments and tax dates don’t align, tax pooling - where tax can be purchased later for earlier tax due dates - has been a great tool to help manage seasonal cash flow for our clients until grape payments do arrive. If taking an uncontracted approach, it is advisable to have a strong balance sheet and a good working relationship

Rosie Jarvis

with your bank, who understand and support your strategy, in case an overdraft facility is required to cover a cash flow hole. These facilities are not always quick to set up, so it pays to let the bank know as early as possible what your requirements might be. The risks of uncontracted grapes include a bumper crop year, where all of a sudden supply outstrips demand, and you may be forced to sell below the district average, or be forced to have grapes processed into wine, with all the hassle and costs that involves. This of course may still be profitable over the long run, as generally in Marlborough demand has exceeded supply in the majority of years. But you would want to be in a very sound financial position to even consider going uncontracted, if you want to sleep at night. A lease arrangement can also be a great option, with regular, almost guaranteed monthly income and no day-today vineyard commitments. But this usually comes with a lower net return. Make sure you get expert advice on any lease or contract before signing. As always, it is important to forecast different scenarios, to understand the impact these factors would have on your business. The level of stress your business and you can take may also determine your appetite to be uncontracted, short or long-term contracted, or under a lease. Rosie Jarvis is an associate at BDO Marlborough

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“At this stage I nearly called it quits as nothing was going my way.” Johnny Valencia A LACK of grapes, a fridge malfunction and ravenous birds don’t usually lead to an award-winning wine, but Johnny Valencia has pulled it off. The Nelson Marlborough Institute of Technology (NMIT) Bachelor of Viticulture and Winemaking student won the 2021 Ginkgo Trophy for the best student wine at the 2021 Marlborough Wine Show, sponsored by QuayConnect, for his Chardonnay. “I was flabbergasted, and completely shocked, but I was really happy,” says Johnny, whose wine was judged alongside commercial wineries. All first-year NMIT students have the opportunity to create their own wine, but not everything went according to plan for Johnny. “My original style was going to be an oak-influenced Chardonnay but I was annoyed I hadn’t put the nets on the Chardonnay grapes earlier and there wasn’t much left. I was kind of panicking—going up and down rows trying to decide what to do next. Then I found some Chenin Blanc grapes, but they were just about all gone too,” says Johnny. “I thought I was pretty stuffed, but I found some Albariño grapes, which have completely different characteristics to Chardonnay and you wouldn’t normally blend them together. But I didn’t have a Plan B so ended up with 60% Chardonnay, 30% Chenin Blanc and 20% Albariño — and no idea how it would turn out.” Johnny continued with his winemaking plan, treating it as a Chardonnay. However, he had an issue with high acidity due to the unripe Albariño grapes and things were not looking good. He decided to carry on using malolactic fermentation to give the wine a creamy, buttery taste, done 26 / Winepress December 2021

Generation Y-ine Award win tops off a complex journey for student winemaker JANE HORDER

by adding a bacteria culture to kickstart the process. Unfortunately, the fridge the wine was in had a malfunction which killed off the malolactic fermentation process. “At this stage I nearly called it quits as nothing was going my way and I seemed jinxed. But I put the wine in oak and left it on the lees - the acid levels started to drop and every week it developed and became how I wanted it.” Johnny was the last in his class to get his wine bottled. Ngarita Warden, NMIT viticulture and wine tutor, says Johnny’s win is “awesome” especially as no other student won a medal. “Johnny worked so hard in every paper, he has a great attitude and the effort he put in to his wine was unbelievable - it’s a really well-deserved award,” she says. “2021 has been a hard year — the crop was down in Marlborough but the wine quality was very high across the board.” Johnny is from the United Kingdom and was raised in Spain. He was formerly in the military, where he met his wife, and the couple came to New Zealand when she took up a job offer in Marlborough. Johnny says although he has always enjoyed wine, and grown a few vines, he had never made wine. However, after spending time in Queenstown, and seeing all the vineyards in Marlborough, he realised it was an industry he could be passionate about. “I actually wanted to learn te reo Māori and went on to the NMIT website. Then I thought I would look at other courses and came across the viticulture degree.” Johnny is working at Lawson’s Dry Hills vineyard through the summer and will do the 2022 vintage there. Jane Horder is senior communications advisor at NMIT

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14/1/21 4:01 pm

BUSINESS FOR SALE

Vinpro Nelson Ltd Nelson This business offers a unique opportunity to add bottling facilities to an existing winery or for the business to continue as a mobile, contracted bottling service. With an average annual income of $790,000 delivering gross profit at 45%, this business matches an attractive income with lifestyle.

Ref #32841

Price $900,000

Wladimir Ramsteijn | 027 234 5676

wladimirr@abcbusiness.co.nz www.abcbusiness.co.nz | LIC REA 2008

Winepress December 2021 / 27

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Biosecurity Watch Lessons from NZ's largest biosecurity response SOPHIE BADLAND

THE MINISTRY for Primary Industries has recently released the findings of an independent review of the Mycoplasma bovis eradication programme. This was the largest biosecurity incursion response to have taken place in New Zealand to date - except perhaps for Covid-19. This month, we consider some (by no means all) of the lessons the viticulture industry and other primary sectors can take from the Mycoplasma bovis outbreak that has affected the beef and dairy industry over the past four years, and which will ultimately cost the industry and the taxpayer close to a billion dollars to eradicate. The review found that the bovis programme is on track to achieve a world-first eradication, which is impressive, but several recommendations to improve the wider biosecurity system have also been made as a result. The bovis programme really tested the biosecurity system, which had to respond quickly to a complex situation with a disease that is often difficult to diagnose. The review concluded that M. bovis has been a real test of the capacity and capability of both the Ministry for Primary Industries (MPI) and the livestock sector, and has had to overcome a range of significant challenges relating to data management, stock traceability, new and untested partnerships between organisations and uncertain science. Governance and leadership At the time of the bovis incursion there was no formal operational agreement through the Government-Industry Agreement (GIA) that allowed for shared decision-making between the Crown and affected industry, so at first the response was MPI-led. Decision rights and funding agreements took time to develop and bed in. The review found that it took more than a year before a governance group working under good governance principles and practices with an independent chair was properly established. Since then, the partnership has been far more functional and levels of trust and confidence in governance of the response have been higher, highlighting the need to

quickly (or where possible, pre-emptively) establish a crosssector governance group with good working relationships and clear principles when a serious new incursion is identified. Structure and processes The review has found that in 2017, when the bovis incursion was discovered, there was a lack of preparedness for a large-scale outbreak of a cattle disease in both MPI and the livestock sector. The training and experience of staff was inadequate, and several of the policies and processes ultimately required to manage the impacts on farmers and response staff had to be upgraded, or in some cases did not exist and had to be developed as the response progressed. Industry partners were also under-resourced and sufficient support was not always provided to farmers, particularly in the early stages of the response. However, two of the industry organisations involved (DairyNZ and Beef + Lamb New Zealand) made significant improvements in the delivery of compensation to affected farmers by setting up a Compensation Assistance Team, which worked with farmers to assist them with their claims while also helping MPI better understand farm processes and minimise the ‘red tape’ that accompanies the compensation process. Information systems Having access to comprehensive, up-to-date data is a crucial aspect of managing a biosecurity incursion response. New Zealand lags behind other countries in that we do not have comprehensive farm demographic databases and mandatory electronic tracing systems for species at high risk. Current and accurate farm location data is needed, as well as up to date contact records and livestock manager and owner information. It was known prior to 2017 that the National Animal Identification and Tracing (NAIT) system was poorly complied with and this added a significant challenge to the bovis response.

IF YOU SEE ANYTHING UNUSUAL

CATCH IT . SNAP IT . REPORT IT . Call MPI biosecurity hotline 0800 80 99 66 28 / Winepress December 2021

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Alongside this, interoperability between the database systems used by different organisations meant that what data had been collected could not easily be shared, and there were also differing interpretations between organisations of the legislation that enables data sharing. Poor data entry into NAIT by farmers and the barriers to data sharing between organisations slowed the response and meant that bovis was able to spread to more farms than may otherwise have been affected. The review panel are recommending work is done to improve animal tracing compliance, improve the reliability of database systems and increase the interoperability between them. Trust and confidence The review established that strategic communications advice on response engagement with affected stakeholders was not provided to the governance group throughout the initial bovis response. As a result, communications were mostly transactional without much consideration of human needs or feedback from farmers. This has since been rectified and the review notes that participants in different stages of the response have had significantly different experiences. Those who were affected early on became deeply frustrated, with inexperienced staff and cumbersome inflexible processes adding to the problem. Farmers who have been affected later in the eradication programme still report some frustrations, but better use of face-to-face communications and a more strategic

communications approach have since improved trust and confidence in response leadership. The review panel recommends important biosecurity messages need to continue to be strategically communicated during ‘peacetime’ (when no response is occurring), that enable farmers to understand why biosecurity is important and the importance of on-farm preparedness for an incursion event. Conclusion “There’s no denying the disruption and stress experienced by farmers affected by the eradication programme, and this review will help to ensure we have better systems and support in the future for disease responses,” says Ray Smith, the director general of MPI. Farmers themselves report several different stressors experienced throughout the response, including the impacts of operating under biosecurity restrictions, ongoing financial uncertainty, excessive workload due to the additional tasks imposed on them by the response, the negative community perceptions associated with an infected property, and concerns for the welfare of their stock. Many of the issues highlighted by the bovis review would be mirrored in significant biosecurity responses affecting the plant-based sectors, so it is important we take the time to learn from the bovis experience and ensure the lessons are applied to better protect the wine industry.

Winepress December 2021 / 29

Industry News Annual Report It’s been a jam-packed 12 months for Wine Marlborough and the Marlborough Winegrowers Board, with Covid-related workshops, seminars, communications and strategy added to the events of a more typical year. Throw in a low yielding vintage and a vineyard smashing flood, and it’s been a year of abundant challenges. The 2021 Annual Report, released at the Marlborough Winegrowers AGM in November, outlines the activities of the year, each aligned with the Wine Marlborough strategy to protect, celebrate, grow and educate. Find the annual report at wine-marlborough.co.nz/new

New Zealand wine in high demand International demand for New Zealand wine shows no sign of slowing, with export value reaching $599 million in the first quarter of the new export year, up 9% on the previous year. The demand for New Zealand wine is also reflected in an increase in price per litre, with the September quarter 2021 average value up 4% from September 2020. “The ongoing demand for New Zealand wine has proven that the distinctive flavours, quality and sustainability of our wines increasingly resonate with consumers around the world,” says New Zealand Winegrowers chief executive Philip Gregan. “It is encouraging to see that during these uncertain times, consumers continue to choose a premium product they know that they can trust.” Although the quality of the 2021 vintage was exceptional throughout New Zealand’s wine regions, the small harvest - down 19% on last year’s crop - is reflected in the decrease in volume of exports, down 3% on the year to September, compared to the same period last year. “Successfully managing the market impacts of the resulting supply constraints is a key focus for many in the New Zealand wine industry. Wineries are having to make tough decisions over who they can supply in their key markets,” says Philip.

Cellar operations opportunities People considering a career in wine have an opportunity to get their foot in the door at a Cellar Operations day in January. Nelson Marlborough Institute of Technology (NMIT) is organising the event at its Marlborough campus on Thursday January 20, with the support of Wine Marlborough and industry members. Prospective students will learn how the local wine industry works and what they’ll need to learn before the vintage season starts. The event includes the opportunity to visit key areas at local wineries before returning to campus for a tour around NMIT’s wine facilities, which include a cellar operations area. Wine tutors will run through the Cellar Operations programme and explain how it can fit in with work and lifestyle. The day closes with a meet and greet with key people from local wineries, to offer insights into the day-today operations of their operations. The Cellar Operations day runs from 9am to 4pm. For more information, go to nmit.ac.nz/news/experience-cellar-operations

A L L A S P E C T S O F V I T I C U LT U R E SERVICES INCLUDE; • • • •

Mechanical Shaking Trimming Leaf Plucking General Vineyard Maintenance

Call Colesy on 021 363 983 www.colescontracting.co.nz 30 / Winepress December 2021

The Test Match New Zealand reigned supreme at the Southern Sauvignon Blanc ‘Test Match’ devised by Cape Town wine scribe Emile Joubert and Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc producer Erica Crawford. The competition between top New Zealand and South African Sauvignon Blancs was held in honour of 100 years of All Blacks versus Springbok rugby. The Sauvignon Blanc test match was poised on a knife edge, with South Africa winning the competition with an average score of 90.4/100pts to the Kiwis’ 89.4/100. But New Zealand produced the top scoring wines of the day, with Villa Maria Reserve Wairau Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2020 and Astrolabe Sauvignon Blanc 2020 topping the scoresheets with ratings of 93.4/100 and 93/100 respectively. “With 268 million litres of Sauvignon Blanc produced in New Zealand in 2021, South Africa makes about a third of the volume of Sauvignon that we do,” says Erica. “But what it lacks in size of production, the Cape makes up in quality. The winemakers are smart and innovative, and the Cape has a diversity of terroir that comes to the fore in the wines. Emile says that when it comes to Sauvignon Blanc and a wine country in general, New Zealand’s story is miraculous. “South Africa’s wine legacy might be much older than that of New Zealand, but in terms of profile and commercial success, the Kiwis currently lead the way.” Master sommelier Cameron Douglas and his panel selected 10 Kiwi Sauvignons to represent New Zealand, ranging from the classic crisp and zesty Sauvignons that Marlborough is known for, to more textured and elegant styles, as well as a few that got thorough winemaker treatment of oak, lees contact and alternate fermentation vessels. All wines were judged from the 2020 vintage by a panel led by Winnie Bowman, a well-known South African and international wine judge, who calls the event “a fantastic match-up between two great winemaking countries”.

CLASSIFIEDS

FOR SALE

Giltrap 2100 side discharge mower in good running order. Ideal for 3 metre rows. Only worked 10 ha block $4000 o.n.o

Phone: 027 437 1900

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WINEMAKING CLIENTS WANTED

Wine Workshop / Mahi Wine are seeking clients for small batch, low intervention winemaking at their winery in Renwick. Minimum tonnages apply, contact Brian Bicknell for more information

Call: 021 671 631 Email: brian@mahiwine.com

CLASSIFIEDS

EXPERIENCED CONSULTANT WINEMAKER / VITICULTURALIST Specialising in organics available to help you. Over 30 years’ experience winemaking: winery and vineyard development together with global sales and marketing. I am looking to take on new projects and am happy to consider proposals be they organic, regenerative or conventional. Call me for a chat to see how I can help you

Sam Weaver 021 316 930

Roundwood Limited Suppliers of Quality Roundwood Contact:

Grant Cathcart Phone 03 313 8339 fax 03 313 3767 mobile 021 511 460

roundwood@mcalpines.co.nz

Winepress December 2021 / 31

Wine Happenings

A monthly list of events within the New Zealand wine industry. To have your event included in the January Wine Happenings, please email details to sophie@sophiepreece.co.nz by December 13. Due to uncertainty around Covid-19, there may be changes to some of these events. For more information, please use the contact supplied or email sarah@winemarlborough.nz

DECEMBER 8 Rock Ferry Wine’s Twilight Market; 4pm-7pm, every second Wednesday of the month – rockferry.co.nz 12 Sunday Sessions at Forrest Estate – every Sunday – follow-me.co.nz 26 Braai BBQ on Boxing Day, Fromm Winery, from midday. Bookings essential - office@frommwinery.co.nz JANUARY 12 Rock Ferry Wine’s Twilight Market; 4pm-7pm – rockferry.co.nz 23 Vinyl in the Vines at Catalina Sounds (see page 17) 27 2021 Corteva Young Viticulturist of the Year National Final, Indevin Bankhouse Estate 27 2021 Corteva New Zealand Young Viticulturist of the Year speeches and awards dinner. Clubs of Marlborough, Blenheim FEBRUARY 5 South Island Cheese Festival at Clos Henri - southislandcheesefest.com 12 Marlborough Wine & Food Festival, Renwick Domain - marlboroughwinefestival.com 13 The Marlborough Wine & Food Wind Down, Framingham Wines 18 Nuits Romantiques at Clos Henri (outdoor movie)

Sunday Sessions - Every Sunday

32 / Winepress December 2021

Young Viticulturist Final - January 27

Nuits Romantigues - February 18

www.arxada.co.nz

Winepress December 2021 / 33

Fruitfed Supplies Blenheim achieves major milestone

The Blenheim store has recently gained its BRCGS certification. This certification represents Fruitfed Supplies’ commitment to supporting their customers and New Zealand’s viticulture industry. The Blenheim store stocks a wide range of supplies for both conventional and organic wineries including: > Dry goods & enzymes > Cleaning products > Fermentation & filter aids > Yeast & sugar > Fining products

fruitfedsupplies.co.nz

A trading division of PGG Wrightson Ltd

Winepress - December 2021

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Generation Y-ine Johnny Valencia