Winepress March 2017 by Winepress Magazine

THE OFFICIAL MAGAZINE OF WINE MARLBOROUGH

ISSUE NO. 267 / MARCH 2017

SUSTAINABILITY MEASURES

Photo: Jim Tannock

wine-marlborough.co.nz

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this issue... REGULARS

FEATURES

3 4

Editorial

From the Board - Simon Bishell

Tasman Crop Met Report

Gen Y-ine - Amber Parker

The Block - Clos Henri

Biosecurity Watch

Industry News

ANZ Wine Happenings

Feastival The 2017 Marlborough Wine & Food Festival was a feast for all the senses, with food, wine, education, entertainment and sunshine, all wrapped up in stunning location.

12 Pinot 2017

Pinot Noir 2017 celebrated the turangawaewae of wine, reports Tessa Nicholson.

13 Shades of Green

Marlborough is a victim of its own success when it comes to attracting consumers to atypical styles of Sauvignon Blanc, says Melbourne Sommelier Mark Protheroe.

14 Continuous Improvement

Cover: One of the stunning images from Beyond (pg 26) an exhibition of photos by Jim Tannock and words by Helen Simpson, commissioned by Yealands Estate.

Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand (SWNZ) must continue to evolve or lose its position as the global leader in wine sustainability, says Business Manager Justine Tate.

Winepress March 2017 / 1

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General Manager: Marcus Pickens 03 577 9299 marcus@wine-marlborough.co.nz Editor: Sophie Preece 027 308 4455 sophie@sophiepreece.co.nz Advertising: Harriet Wadworth 03 577 9299 harriet@wine-marlborough.co.nz Wine Marlborough Board: Ben Ensor ben.lisa@clear.net.nz Callum Linklater callumandsarah@xtra.co.nz Jack Glover jack.glover@accolade-wines.co.nz Michael Wentworth michael.wentworth@yealands.co.nz Nick Entwistle nick@wairauriverwines.co.nz Rhyan Wardman (Chair) rhyan@giesen.co.nz Samantha Wickham samantha@ormondnurseries.co.nz Simon Bishell (Deputy Chair) simon@caythorpe.nz Stuart Dudley stuartd@villamaria.co.nz Tom Trolove tom.trolove@framingham.co.nz Printed by: Blenheim Print Ltd 03 578 1322

Disclaimer: The views and articles that are expressed and appear in Winepress are entirely those of contributors and in no way reflect the policy of the Marlborough Winegrowers. Any advice given, implied or suggested should be considered on its merits, and no responsibility can be taken for problems arising from the use of such information.

From the Editor This edition of Winepress was finalised as an indecisive summer swung into a classic autumn, with chilled mornings, bright days, and a soundtrack of cicadas and gas guns. The new season brings with it a shift in more than the weather, as Marlborough’s winemakers and grape growers approach the edge of the harvest, survey the field ahead and prepare for the onslaught as best they can. “It’s like preparing for a military assault,” says Te Whare Ra’s Anna Flowerday. “You need the troops, the equipment and the plans in place.” She always looks forward to the excitement of preparing for harvest, with vines netted, interns inducted, wines bottled, equipment serviced, decks cleared and worst case scenarios envisaged. “That’s the thing I love about vintage,” she says. “Every single one is slightly different, and it never goes according to plan.” Anna was one of the speakers at Pinot Noir New Zealand 2017 last month, where she spoke of the power of turangawaewae, and how Pinot Noir had taught her and her husband a lot about their land. “Pinot has taught us to be patient and has taught us to be humble,” she says on page 12. Pinot 2017 Chair Ben Glover says the event was a very special three days, and as always “the X factor” wasn’t scripted. Instead, it came from the people there, who were “willing to embrace, explore and evolve, all within the guidance of turangawaewae.” The presentations from Rachel Taulelei, Dame Anne Salmond and Nick Mills were inspiring, honest and set the scene, says Ben. But of course the scene was really set by him and his board, along with Executive Officer Rachael Fletcher, who worked tirelessly to bring the world’s Pinot lovers together in Wellington. Their work was not just because of Pinot Noir, but “for the love of the wine industry”, says Ben. The Marlborough Wine & Food Festival (pg 9) followed hard on the heels of Pinot 2017, with a fantastic and sold out event that celebrated Marlborough’s wine, along with its people, its food and its landscape. The event also happens thanks to the hard work of volunteer committee members, who donate around 600 hours of their time every year. It is also thanks to the wine companies who recognise it as a brilliant way of showcasing their brands and their region. In the words of Doreen Lovell-Hann, who travelled from Canada with her husband to mark their 30th wedding anniversary at the festival, “what better place to come and celebrate?”

“It’s like preparing for a military assault. You need the troops, the equipment and the plans in place.” Anna Flowerday

SOPHIE PREECE Winepress March 2017 / 3

From the Board SIMON BISHELL

I AM intrigued as to how each growing season can be so unique and different from those in the past. After negotiating a relatively frost free spring, mother nature firmly reminded us who calls the shots with the events of November 14, and more recently the unrelenting westerly gales that have blown through on almost every other day. Wind has made life in the vineyard challenging – there have been numerous reports of trellis collapse, others hanging on by a thread. Repairing this and constant re-tucking of canopies have consumed resources at a time when we are already busy spraying, trimming, defoliating, assessing yield and managing irrigation. As we edge closer to harvest our battle with powdery mildew has reappeared. I am in no doubt that some of the blame can be attributed to days between spray applications being extended due to the winds, and reduced effectiveness of sprays being applied in windy conditions. I suspect you will hear more about PM in the coming months but in my opinion there will be a shift as to how the industry manages this. From a winemaking perspective, excessive defoliation post-bunch closure for Sauvignon Blanc is usually not pushed, but may become a necessity, especially for sites with high vigour. If so, this will place more pressure on our finite labour and machinery resources. Yield assessments have been completed and heavier crops adjusted. There seems to be high variability around the region on berries/bunch 4 / Winepress March 2017

but generally yields are sitting on average, if not slightly above average. History shows that blocks which are heavy in assessment often come in heavier at harvest. Potentially there will be vineyards with excess fruit that sits outside contracted tonnages. We need to think carefully about what happens to this fruit. New Zealand Winegrowers’ 2016 Marlborough Vineyard Benchmarking Report calculated a net profit before tax at just under $15,000/ha. Anecdotal reports regarding pricing and yields this season would indicate 2017 could provide similar returns. Winegrowing is hard and risky business so we need to be proud of these achievements and figures - other primary producing industries look upon our financial success with envy and admiration. I challenge you to find another land use, suitable in our environment, that can provide returns comparable to winegrowing. We have been farming our family property for almost 140 years and I am fortunate that my time on the farm has coincided with the development of the wine industry. That aside, it is also natural to strive for more and we are all searching for efficiencies in our businesses to grow profitability. Seasons of higher fruitfulness present opportunities for growers to do so. The question is - at what cost? One of the biggest threats to the success of our industry is the

threat from within. Selling excess fruit for nominal prices provides short term cash benefits for a select few, while the rest of us get to share the enduring hangover. This wine undercuts higher priced branded product that the reputation of Marlborough has been forged on. Consolidated profitability for growers will most likely be achieved by growing market sales of premium wine. We only need to cast our minds back a few years to see the results of over cropping and volume on perception and price in market. If in a few weeks’ time you are faced with an opportunity to sell excess fruit, remember just how hard you have had to work this season to get your fruit over the finish line. I hope that any price you consider accepting is a fair reflection of this and of course it is entirely your choice on how you act and what you do. However, what I will be doing is leaving my excess fruit in the vineyard and I will wear that as a badge of honour amongst my winegrowing peers. All the best for harvest – see you on the other side.

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Table 1: Blenheim Weather Data – February 2017 February February 2017 February Period February 2017 compared LTA of LTA 2016 to LTA GDD’s for: Month - Max/Min¹ 223.6 100% 224.3 (1996-2016) 290.9 Month – Mean² 217.0 100% 216.4 (1996-2016) 282.1 Growing Degree Days Total Jul 16–Feb 17 – Max/Min¹ 1060.0 104% 1015.1 (1996-2016) 1073.3 Jul 16–Feb 17 – Mean² 1083.6 103% 1047.9 (1996-2016) 1108.5 Mean Maximum (°C) 23.1 -0.1°C 23.2 (1986-2016) 25.6 Mean Minimum (°C) 12.9 +0.5°C 12.4 (1986-2016) 14.5 Mean Temp (°C) 18.0 +0.2°C 17.8 (1986-2016) 20.0 Grass Frosts (<= -1.0°C) 0 Equal 0.03 (1986-2016) 0 Air Frosts (0.0°C) 0 Equal 0.0 (1986-2016) 0 Sunshine hours 246.3 108% 227.6 (1930-2016) 289.3 Sunshine hours – lowest 133.6 2012 Sunshine hours – highest 298 1968 Sunshine hours total – 2017 528.3 108% 489.2 (1930-2016) 521.7 Rainfall (mm) 61.8 144% 42.8 (1930-2016) 18.0 Rainfall (mm) – lowest 1 1973 & 1983 Rainfall (mm) – highest 129 1936 Rainfall total (mm) – 2017 89.0 97.6% 91.2 (1930-2016) 87.2 Evapotranspiration – mm 121.9 109% 111.5 (1996-2016) 142.9 Avg. Daily Windrun (km) 239.3 95% 252.5 (1996-2016) 243.7 Mean soil temp – 10cm 18.7 +0.5°C 18.2 (1986-2016) 19.8 Mean soil temp – 30cm 21.0 +0.4°C 20.6 (1986-2016) 22.5 ¹GDD’s Max/Min are calculated from absolute daily maximum and minimum temperatures ²GDD’s Mean are calculated from average hourly temperatures Table 2: Weekly temperatures during February 2017 February 2017 1st to 7th 8th to 15th 16th to 21st 22nd to 28th Month Mean Long-term average

6 / Winepress March 2017

Mean °C 19.8 16.8 17.8 17.5 18.0 17.8

Mean Maximum 24.7 22.1 22.4 23.0 23.1 23.2

Mean Daily Minimum Range 14.9 9.8 11.4 10.7 13.3 9.1 12.1 10.9 12.9 10.2 12.4 10.8

February 2017 was slightly warmer, sunnier, and wetter than normal. Temperature February’s mean temperature was 0.2°C above the long-term average. However, that was entirely due to the fact that the first week of February was very warm (+2.0°C). This first week offset the cooler temperatures in the second (-1.0°C) and fourth week’s (-0.3°C). The hottest day in Blenheim during February 2017 was the 21st with a maximum temperature of 28.5°C; not particularly hot. However, February did have 11 days when the maximum temperature was between 25 and 28.5°C. The average daily maximum temperature for February of 23.1°C was 0.1°C below the long-term average, whereas the average daily minimum of 12.9°C was 0.5°C above the longterm average. The coolest overnight minimum temperature during February was 5.2°C on 9 February. The grass minimum temperature on 9 February was -0.4°C, not quite low enough to be recorded as a ground frost. Although February’s mean temperature was slightly above average, it was 2.0°C below the very warm mean temperature recorded in February 2016. Summer temperatures There has been a perception that the summer of 2016-17 has been a bit of a fizzer. Is this true? How did the summer compare with previous years?

Days of 30°C or greater Blenheim receives relatively few days when the mercury reaches 30°C or greater. Further inland, the maximum temperatures are slightly higher. This is often seen in the daily maximums reported on TV, which come from the Woodbourne met station. The Woodbourne maximums are invariably hotter than in Blenheim. Conversely Woodbourne often records a lower minimum temperature than Blenheim. In Blenheim there were no days that reached 30.0°C this summer. The summer of 2015-16 recorded two days of 30.0°C or greater; (30.0°C and 32.2°C). The summer of 2014-15 recorded one day of 30.0°C or greater; (30.8°C). Number of days with a maximum temperature above 25°C over the past four summers Summer is officially 90 or 91 days from 1 December to 28 or 29 February 2016-2017 - 29 days out of 90 days ≥ 25°C 2015-2016 - 34 days out of 91 days ≥ 25°C 2014-2015 - 36 days out of 90 days ≥ 25°C 2013-2014 - 22 out of 90 days ≥ 25°C In comparison to the previous two summers, the summer of 2016-17 didn’t recorded as many hot days. However, it was ahead of the summer of 2013-14. Overall, the summer of 2016-17 in Marlborough was OK. December 2016 was close to average, January

and February 2017 were slightly above average. The temptation is just to compare this summer with last summer (2015-16). Most people will probably remember the above average temperatures in January and well above average temperatures in February 2016. However, I would suggest the fact that the start of last summer was quite cool, in December 2015, will have been long forgotten. One slight annoyance of this past summer was high wind-run in January 2017. Marlborough has experienced

very few windy months over recent years, so when we get one it is especially noticeable. Sunshine Total sunshine hours for the three months of summer (2016-17) were well above average (Table 4). This is the third summer in a row to have recorded above average sunshine. Rainfall February 2017 recorded 61.8 mm rain, 144% of the long-term average.

Table 4: Sunshine hours over the summers of 2014-15, 2015-16 and 2016-17 December January February Total

2014-15 % of 2015-16 mm LTA mm 222.6 90% 294.8 296.9 113% 232.4 264.1 116% 289.3 783.6 107% 816.5

% of 2016-17 % of Long-term LTA mm LTA Average 120% 253.0 103% 246.3 89% 282.0 108% 261.6 127% 246.3 108% 227.6 111% 781.3 106% 735.5

Table 5: Rainfall for the summers of 2014-15, 2015-16 and 2016-17 December January February Total

2014-15 % of mm LTA 31.8 66% 4.4 9% 15.2 35% 51.4 mm 37%

2015-16 % of 2016-17 mm LTA mm 17.4 36% 20.2 69.2 144% 27.2 18.0 42% 61.8 104.6 mm 75% 109.2mm

% of LTA 42% 56% 144% 78.5 %

Long-term Average 47.8 48.4 42.8 139.0 mm

Table 6: Evapotranspiration for the summers of 2014-15, 2015-16 and 2016-17 2014-15 % of 2015-16 mm LTA mm December 126.6 91% 147.7 January 143.8 102% 140.4 February 117.1 105% 142.9 Total 387.5 mm 99% 431.0 mm

% of 2016-17 % of Long-term LTA mm LTA Average 106% 153.7 110% 139.7 100% 181.5 129% 140.3 128% 121.9 109% 111.5 110% 457.1 mm 117% 391.5 mm

Table 3: Monthly mean temperatures over the summers of 2014-15, 2015-16 and 2016-17 2014-15 2015-16 2016-17 2014-15 2015-16 2016-17 2014-15 2015-16 2016-17 Mean Mean Mean Mean Mean Mean Mean Mean Mean Max Max Max Min Min Min °C °C °C °C °C °C °C °C °C December 17.3 15.9 16.7 22.2 21.3 21.7 12.3 10.6 11.6 January 18.8 18.8 18.4 24.3 23.3 23.9 13.2 14.2 12.9 February 17.4 20.0 18.0 23.5 25.6 23.1 11.4 14.5 12.9 Mean 17.8 18.2 17.7 23.3 23.4 22.9 12.3 31.1 12.5 +/-LTA +0.3 +0.7 +0.2 +0.5 +0.6 +0.1 +0.1 +0.9 +0.3 Winepress March 2017 / 7

February 2017 is the first year since 2009, to have recorded above average rainfall. Rain was recorded on seven days in February. However, 47.8 mm or 77% of the month’s total was recorded on Friday 17 February. Total summer rainfall (Dec-Feb) in 2016-17 of 109.2 mm was 78.5 % of the long-term average total, very slightly higher (4.6 mm) than the 2015-16 total, but over double the very low total in 2014-15. Potential Evapotranspiration Potential evapotranspiration for February 2017 was 121.9 mm; 109% of February’s long-term average of 111.5 mm. However, this was well below the February 2016 total of 142.9 mm. It is interesting to note the differences in evapotranspiration for the three months December to February for the three seasons, and how these compare with the long-term averages. Total evapotranspiration for this past summer was higher than in the previous two summers. Potential Water Deficit A reminder that potential water deficit (Table 7) is the difference between monthly rainfall received (Table 5) and potential monthly evapotranspiration lost (Table 6). The potential water deficit for February 2017 was -60.1 mm, only 76% of the long-term average of -79.4 mm. The lower potential water deficit was due to above average rainfall in February. Potential water deficit for the three months December 2016 – February 2017 was 347.9 mm. The long-term average water deficit for summer (Dec – Feb; 1996-2016) is 269.3 mm. It is very interesting to note that the

potential water deficit this summer was slightly higher than in the two previous summers. This is fairly remarkable given the fact that this summer received 109.2 mm rain compared to only 51.4 mm in 2014-15. The higher potential water deficit this summer was entirely due to the higher potential evapotranspiration. Shallow Soil Moisture Shallow soil moisture (5–35 cm depth, under a mown grass surface) measured at the Grovetown Park weather station was 15.0% on 15 February prior to the rain. This is close to as dry as the topsoil at this location ever gets. Following 50 mm rain from 16 to 18 February the topsoil moisture had more than doubled to 32.1% by 19 February. However, with no further rainfall from 19 to 28 February the topsoil moisture had fallen to 24.6% by 28 February; i.e. 50% of the gain in topsoil moisture from the rainfall was lost in those 10 days. This highlights how quickly moisture in the topsoil, under grass, is depleted under average summer conditions. Wind Run Average daily wind run for February 2017 was 239.3 km, 95% the long-term average (1996-2016) of 252.5 km. There were only six days during February that recorded above average wind-run, and these six days were all in the first two weeks of February. This was quite a contrast to January 2017 which was very windy, and recorded average daily wind-run of 336.3 km. Twenty days during January recorded above average wind-run. The 12 years 2006-2017 have all recorded lower than average wind-run during February.

Table 7: Potential water deficit for the summers of 2014-15, 2015-16 and 2016-17 2014-15 % of 2015-16 % of 2016-17 % of Long-term mm LTA mm LTA mm LTA Average December -94.8 102% -130.3 140% -133.5 144% -92.9 January -139.4 144% -71.2 73% -154.3 159% -97.0 February -101.9 128% -124.9 157% -60.1 76% -79.4 Total -336.1 mm 125% 326.4 mm 121% 347.9 mm 129% -269.3 mm 8 / Winepress March 2017

Grape maturity update Plant & Food Research have monitored four blocks of Sauvignon blanc in Marlborough since 2005. A block in central Rapaura was at 8°Brix (50% véraison) on 13 February 2017, one day later than the average of the 12 years 2005-2016. This block is projected to reach 21.5°Brix on 26 March 2017, which should be right on the average date. In a reasonably warm season (2014-15) with lower than average crop load this block reached 21.5°Brix on 18 March 2015. In a cool season (2011-12) with slightly higher than average crop load this block reached 21.5°Brix on 9 April 2012. The other three blocks also reached 8°Brix between zero and four days later than average. Current indications are that the harvest dates for Marlborough Sauvignon blanc should be very close to average. Rob Agnew Plant & Food Research / Marlborough Research Centre

Karena and Kasey Bird

Hollie Smith

Wine & Food Festival 2017 PHOTOS BY RICHARD BRIGGS

A crowd of 8000

Good vibes

Fabulous food

Wonderful people

Winepress March 2017 / 9

Festival 2017 Marlborough’s favourite festival is about so much more than wine. SOPHIE PREECE

SUPERB WINE, delicious food, fantastic entertainment and perfect weather made for one of the best Marlborough Wine & Food Festivals the region has seen. Festival committee Chair Lucy

Walter says having a sell-out event, in the wake of the November earthquake and destroyed State Highway 1, was recognition of the festival’s appeal to wine lovers from all over the country, and beyond.

Doreen Lovell-Hann and her husband Darrel travelled from Newfoundland in Canada to celebrate their 30th wedding anniversary at the festival and “had the most incredible day” in the VIP tent. “My only

Fromm here Fromm enjoyed a fantastic festival this year, pouring an average of one bottle of Riesling every minute for five hours, until it was all gone, says General Manager William Hoare. The company usually has two staff at the stall in the morning and three in the busiest few hours, but there was little rest during the 2017 fest, he says. “We got slammed – we had people around all day.” Fromm’s traditional support base is older consumers who love the company’s Pinot Noir, but the Riesling has tilted that demographic, says Will. “I think as far as the brand goes, we know a lot of the people who are drinking the Riesling are younger, which is brilliant as it gets them interested in Fromm.” That new generation of Fromm fans has been responsible for annual and “accidental” festival success, he says. “We have a big following and we do pretty well out of it. About 10 years ago, people started going on social media and talking about the wines…They know that they can come taste them once a year and tell their friends.”

10 / Winepress March 2017

Framing Fromm’s new demographic . Photo by Richard Briggs

The success of the festival is about more than good business on the day, Will says. “It builds Marlborough’s brand too.”

complaint was it flew by so quickly,” she says. “We chose New Zealand because we wanted to attend this wine festival. We have a love of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc and what better place to come and celebrate?” Delivering a seamless event to 8000 people takes a mammoth amount of work, with around 600 hours from seven committee members, and a massive input from Wine Marlborough staff. “It’s a huge commitment,” says Lucy. “But I do it because I enjoy it. I love seeing it come together, love it when it runs well and love it when everybody puts their hand up to help out.” In recent years, those hands have included committee members outside the wine industry, bringing a broader expertise to the team and an evolution of the event, she says. “To get the big ideas, the cool ideas, you need people from different industries.” The result is an event with broad appeal, thanks to 30 food stalls, 43 wine companies, nine acts, six chefs, two Master Classes and a great vibe, wrapped up in a superb venue at Brancott Vineyard. Celebrity chefs Karina and Kasey Bird, sponsored by Kono at the festival,

Lucy Walter and Annabelle White

say it is one of the best food and wine festivals on their calendar. “It is a great mix of entertainment, delicious food and beautiful Marlborough wines.” They always make space in the schedule for the Marlborough festival “and think all Kiwis should visit at least once”. Spy Valley Marketing Manager Nicola Norton says the 2017 festival was a great day out for the company, with sales up on last year. “It is good brand awareness for our local

and domestic market, with a few international visitors coming along this year.” Spy uses the event to host some of its top New Zealand retail and restaurant customers from Auckland, Wellington and Christchurch and “show them a good time in Marlborough”, says Nicola. “It is more beneficial from this point of view than any sort of money making exercise.”

Girls on tour Twenty five movie stars descended on the Marlborough Wine and Food festival last month, in the 25th year of Girls on Tour. Raqeul (sic), as she prefers to be known, says all the women (“from Bluff” of course) arrive with their alter egos firmly in place, and their names printed on t-shirts, “which I might add have shrunk over 25 years”. They are a familiar and formidable feature at the festival, moving en masse from site to site emblazoned with shiny pink sashes. Next year their numbers will be even bigger, with 30 beds already booked for the weekend, says Raqeul. She’s hoping the Friday markets will be resurrected by then, having been pulled

“All the women arrive with their alter egos firmly in place.”

from the festival weekend calendar this year. However, the Sunday after the festival was “magical”, she says, thanks to Bladen Wines, No. 1 Wines, Gourmet Collection at The Vines, Giesen Wines, a “delicious” lunch at Wither Hills and live music at the Woodbourne Tavern at the end of the day.

Winepress March 2017 / 11

Pinot Noir’s turangawaewae Anna and Jason Flowerday in the buckwheat at Te Whare Ra

Pinot Noir 2017 explored the power of place. TESSA NICHOLSON

TERROIR HAS been a word intimately associated with wine for a number of years, but after the success of Pinot Noir 2017, hundreds of people may be substituting it for a very New Zealand word – turangawaewae. It was the overriding theme of the three-day-event held in Wellington last month, from the opening that included an anthropological explanation of why New Zealand is so different to the rest of the world, through to Marlborough’s Anna Flowerday talking about her search for authenticity in the world of wine. Distinguished professor Dame Anne Salmond explained how turangawaewae literally means a standing place for feet. “(It) forges strong, resilient identities rooted in the land.” What better explanation of regional wine identities could there be? Pinot Noir 2017 attracted more than 650 people, including 90 international writers, sommeliers, winemakers and critics. It was the largest event New Zealand 12 / Winepress March 2017

Winegrowers has ever undertaken and there can be no doubt of its success. Thirty-eight of the 117 producers involved were from Marlborough. All the big names were there, but so too were many of the boutique wineries, each with their own turangawaewae story to tell. Anna’s family have been involved in the wine industry in Australia for five generations, but she and her husband Jason have chosen to put down their roots in Marlborough. Admitting it has not always been an easy path to own and run a small winery in New Zealand, she said it had been “a huge privilege” to be able to do it together “and I would make the same choice again”. Highlighting their attitude to growing wine in the best and purest form by ensuring the land is cared for, she said the Pinot variety had clearly proven their stance. “Initially, in the first few years, we tried to do way too much and focused too much on winemaking interventions. We

“Pinot has taught us to be patient and has taught us to be humble.” Anna Flowerday thought bigness equaled greatness, but we made these big clumsy, show pony Pinots that said nothing about Marlborough or our place. So we tried to embrace the growing and began to learn that was where the intervention was required. We have also tried to notice what the vineyard is trying to give us and embrace that. “In summary, Pinot has taught us to be patient and has taught us to be humble. As the vines have aged and found their balance, we have seen a lot more of those complexities we were trying to make happen, have just started to come in the fruit.” Ben Glover, winemaker for Zephyr Wines and Chair of the Pinot Noir organising committee, opened and closed the event, while Hatsch Kalberer from Fromm Wines delivered his impressions of Central Otago as a wine producing region. The next Pinot Noir celebration, is in 2021 which will also be the 20th anniversary of the inaugural event.

Shades of Green Marlborough’s alternate styles may benefit from an alternate brand. SOPHIE PREECE

“You can’t paint that picture with only one shade of green”, says Mark Protheroe, looking to the verdant wetland surrounding Wither Hills’ Rarangi vineyard. And nor can Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc be portrayed by a single hue. But the Melbourne sommelier says this region has become a victim of its own success when it comes to attracting consumers to atypical styles. “The tricky thing with the alternate ferments, from a market point of view, is that it’s such a move away from the trademark Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough. It can sometimes leave people a little disappointed because they have something in their minds as an image.” On his visit to Marlborough in late January, in the lead-up to Pinot Noir New Zealand 2017, Mark attended a Sauvignon Blanc tasting with a wide range of styles, including oak ferments and sub-regional influences. He is impressed by the diversity the region can deliver, but says the challenge is to find space in a varietal brand that has been so successful. One solution could be to find another overarching name for the oak fermented styles of the region, as was

the method of Méthode Marlborough. “You take that to the world and then you have something that is a consistent story.” As Head Sommelier for Melbourne’s Grossi restaurants, a role he recently finished, Mark endeavoured to list something in each style, and to match each customer with their perfect wine. “Whether they are tasting that leafier thing or are wanting something that’s higher in thiols, I try to have room for both or three styles on the list, with room for alternative ferments as well.” That experience can help expand expectation of the region, he says. “A customer might not want to pay for the Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc, but if you have an excellent Awatere Valley wine that is all leafy, it is a good one to show people. It can perhaps change perceptions to show people Marlborough is not all about one style.” Mark notes that another challenge created by the strong brand of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc is that it overshadows individual brands for many consumers. “They say, ‘I’ll have a glass of Marlborough Savvy; they don’t say they’ll have a glass of Villa Maria or Zephyr or even Yealands’.”

Mark Protheroe at Pinot Noir NZ 2017. Photo courtesy of New Zealand Winegrowers

That’s thanks to strong marketing, but also the overall quality, he says. “The wines are so personality driven and there is a consistency, so that people don’t need to look up the producer - they felt safe and confident.” However, the biggest challenge for Marlborough is with Pinot Noir, says Mark, who struggles to tempt customers with the region’s offering, due to an outdated perception that the wines are “a little bit wishy washy”, slightly sweet and simple. “My biggest challenge has been re-educating people on the joys of a Te Whare Ra Pinot Noir, for example, that does have interest, does have complexity.” With the Southern Valleys and other sub regions focusing on the variety, sommeliers will need to continue that education process with their customers, he says. “If they trust you enough they will revisit a region, and give it a second or third chance to impress them.”

Winepress March 2017 / 13

Continuous Improvement Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand makes moves to recognise sustainability achievements NEW ZEALAND’S wine industry must continue to evolve and grow, or risk losing its position as a global leader in wine sustainability. That was the message from Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand (SWNZ) Business Manager Justine Tate at a member workshop in Blenheim last month, where she outlined plans for a new Continuous Improvement Programme. “New Zealand could lose our leading position if we stand still,” Justine said, referencing sustainability programmes being developed in Chile, Australia, South Africa and California. The Continuous Improvement programme is a voluntary extension programme for SWNZ members. Based on the existing SWNZ pillars, such as waste, water and energy, it offers a framework to support members to advance their sustainability achievements, in whichever areas are most relevant to their situation. The Continuous Improvement programme will run alongside the existing SWNZ programme. New Zealand Winegrowers will set aspirational pillar goals for the industry, such as zero waste, over and above the baseline international (OIV) standards, which underpin the current SWNZ programme. Members will set and work towards achieving their own targets, aligned with those overall industry goals. The programme will offer a verification service that measures, certifies and recognises the work members achieve. Members can use their SWNZ verified sustainability achievements to communicate their

14 / Winepress March 2017

credentials to external audiences - media, consumers, distributors and influencers - both in New Zealand and abroad, said Justine. She emphasised that SWNZ remains the baseline for certification, and the companies that choose to partake in the new programme will Photo by Richard Briggs do so in addition to the current scorecard model. “Continuous 20 years, and has 98% membership. Improvement is a voluntary addition, “There is absolutely no question that not a replacement.” our key markets are demanding these At the same time, SWNZ will work sustainability credentials. We think the hard to retain its coveted position as new extension programme will be a a global wine industry leader. Justine brilliant way to demonstrate the strong quoted a recent Unilever study to and ongoing commitment of New emphasise the power of sustainability Zealand’s wine industry.” stories and measures on the global A pilot programme will roll out market. That international study as templates and guidelines for each revealed that a third of consumers of the nine sustainability pillars choose to buy from brands they believe are developed. Following the pilot are doing social or environmental programme, any SWNZ member can good. apply to be part of the programme as Unilever asked 20,000 adults from long as they have: five countries how their sustainability • met their SWNZ requirements concerns impact on their choices in• a current certified SWNZ status store and at home. More than one in letter five of the people surveyed said they • been through at least one SWNZ would actively choose brands that audit made their sustainability credentials • passed their most recent audit clearer on their packaging and in their The launch of the programme is marketing. “This represents a potential planned for June 2017. untapped opportunity of €966 billion out of a €2.5 trillion total market for sustainable goods,” the report stated. Justine said New Zealand’s programme had a strong advantage globally, because it has been going for

Sustainability Report SUSTAINABLE WINEGROWING New Zealand (SWNZ) is unmatched by any voluntary scheme around the world, says the first ever report on the industry’s sustainability measures. The Sustainability Report celebrates SWNZ’s coverage of the industry, with certification of 98% of New Zealand’s vineyard area, and highlights actions undertaken by the wine industry, such as enhancing biodiversity, reducing and recycling by-products, optimising water and energy use, investing in people, protecting soil, and reducing agrichemical use. “It shows that New Zealand wineries and growers continue to produce premium wine whilst employing environmentally responsible and economically viable processes in vineyards and wineries,” says New Zealand Winegrowers Chair

Steve Green in his introduction. However, it is essential that the industry continues to stay ahead of best practice, he says. “Central to our sustainability policy is a commitment to keep improving as new research

is undertaken and new technologies are developed.” That’s a philosophy reflected in the report’s final words. “No matter how great our progress, there is only one response: Do better next year.”

Some of the numbers from 2016 • 35,558ha (98%) of New Zealand’s vineyards certified as sustainable under SWNZ • 7% of New Zealand’s vineyards certified organic • 2500ha set aside for biodiversity protection, restoration or enhancement by wineries or vineyards • 92,000 cubic metres of waste diverted from landfill • 98% of vineyards monitored to optimise water application • 99% of wineries optimised water conservation • 99% of wineries monitored and managed energy use • 99% of vineyards used non-chemical cultural controls as part of their pest and disease strategy • 83%, or more, of vineyards had permanent inter-row vegetation throughout the year

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Powdery Mildew Neighbours blamed for powdery mildew spread A COLLECTIVE effort is essential to limiting the spread of powdery mildew in vineyards, says Wine Marlborough Chair Rhyan Wardman. Rhyan had reports pre-véraison from growers concerned their grapevines were being infected by the spread of spores from untreated neighbouring vines. “With our prevailing winds, if somebody isn’t on top of it, it can make the workload and the challenge for neighbouring vineyards that much greater.” The issue has raised the ire of some in the wine community, with the phrase “rogue growers” used at a biosecurity meeting late last month, where people asked whether New Zealand Winegrowers (NZW), the Ministry of Primary Industries (MPI) or local council could intervene to limit the spread of disease. MPI Senior Policy Analyst Nick Dalgety responded at the meeting that in the case of a Fireblight incursion in apple and pear trees in the TasmanNelson region, the Tasman District Council has the power to act to control host plants if a grower does not. NZW Biosecurity Manager Dr Edwin Massey also noted that there were external bodies enabled to take action in the case of Psa-V in kiwifruit orchards in the North Island. However, a well respected industry member, who prefers to remain unnamed, told Winepress that such high level intervention happens only when there are serious consequences from such diseases. He says all wineries and purchasers of grapes, along with NZW, need to consider powdery mildew “serious enough to enforce measures to contain and eradicate the problem”. 16 / Winepress March 2017

Photo by Trevor Lupton

Under sustainable growing practices, industry members were trying to reduce agrichemical use and adopt best practices “to have the least impact on the environment and residues”, he says. Yet powdery mildew was an endemic problem that required more and more chemicals. The issue is exacerbated “when a few do not control the problem”, he says.

“It can make the workload and the challenge for neighbouring vineyards that much greater,” Rhyan Wardman “Resistant strains of the pathogen start to develop and the battle becomes never ending.” A 2010 report from the Australian Government Grape and Wine Research and Development Council says it is possible, but unlikely, for powdery mildew spores to travel long distances from a neighbour’s vines.

“Measurements of disease progress have shown that, in early season when control is most critical, powdery usually spreads only over metres and not hundreds of metres,” it states in a Q&A piece. “In most vineyards, the spread of the disease begins with flagshoots – shoots that emerge from diseased buds infected the season before. Initially, spores from a flagshoot infect leaves in satellite infections about half to one metre around it.” The powdery mildew infection sites on those leaves then produce spores in five to 10 days and those spores then cause more “satellite infections” around that location. “In the first weeks of a powdery mildew epidemic, the new spots have progressed only 60–100 metres from the “original infection site,” the report reads. “This means that, at the earliest, powdery does not spread from your neighbour’s patch until about 10 weeks after budburst and then only if that vineyard is not sprayed at all.” Rhyan says the industry needs to think about how to identify and communicate best practice amongst its members, with a need for greater education across the grower base and wine community. “There may be a role for Wine Marlborough to run a workshop or a series of workshops on this.”

Upfront labels All is not as it seems when it comes to some “New Zealand” wines. SOPHIE PREECE

WINE COMPANIES need to be “upfront” about the origin of their product, say industry members concerned by the sale of Australian wines under New Zealand labels. That includes a clear origin label on the front of every bottle, says Wine Marlborough Board member Tom Trolove. “Maybe it’s time to make origin or geographical indication mandatory on the front label.” A recent piece on TVNZ’s Fair Go exposed some well-known New Zealand brands selling low price-point wines from Australian vines, with only a small origin label on the back. Tom says some of the companies highlighted by the programme had forged great brands on the back of Marlborough fruit. “Now they are undermining the very foundation on which they built their reputations,” he says. “Every litre of Australian wine sold under these brands is a litre of Marlborough wine that is not. This impacts on growers and wine companies alike.” Tom says the public is increasingly looking for origin labelling on all food and beverage packaging, and the subject is more topical than ever before. A spokesperson from the Commerce Commission said the watchdog could not comment on specific behaviour it had not investigated, “but generally speaking the test is the overall impression given to consumers when they’re purchasing a product”. He said it was the

An example of clearly labelled wine origin.

responsibility of individual businesses to ensure consumers were not given false impressions about the origin of their products. The commission’s view on how they should do that is italicised in the following segment of the Fair Trading Act, under the heading ‘The

“They are undermining the very foundation on which they built their reputations,” Tom Trolove use of symbols and place of origin labelling’: “Businesses must avoid misleading consumers about where goods are made. It is not just words that can be misleading. Symbols such as kiwis, flags or other national emblems can also convey false or

misleading impressions as to place of origin. Where such symbols are used on a product that was manufactured overseas, the Commission’s view is that sufficient information should be put as prominently as possible on the label to indicate that the product came from elsewhere.” Wine Marlborough General Manager Marcus Pickens says there is a risk that if the message of Australian or other origin is not clear, the reputation of Marlborough and New Zealand wine could be at risk. “If people go ‘oh this isn’t what I expected’, there could be a bit of collateral damage for us.” Looking at the websites of some of the companies involved, he found some of the wine’s brand stories centred on Marlborough or New Zealand, at odds with the product they were selling if it came from Australia. He emphasises that the call for upfront labelling is not an attack on the brands themselves, but a desire for clarity. “There’s a marketplace they want to supply wine to, but to some people buying wine is quite a confusing and bewildering experience.”

Winepress March 2017 / 17

Repaired and Ready Wineries have worked hard to ensure capacity for harvest. Marlborough’s wine industry is in good shape for the 2017 vintage, despite significant damage from the November earthquake, says Philip Gregan. The New Zealand Winegrowers Chief Executive says preliminary results from the pre-vintage survey, which included questions about earthquake damage and recovery, suggest a mixture of temporary and long term fixes have set wineries up for the harvest.

“One of the questions we asked people was ‘has the grape intake been affected by the earthquake?’ And the overwhelming answer that has come back is ‘no, it hasn’t’.” An earlier survey, conducted after the magnitude 7.8 earthquake, indicated wine losses of more than 2% of Marlborough’s total production and varying levels of damage to 20% of its tanks. Insurance experts have estimated insured winery losses of around $200 to $250 million, not

including Business Interruption losses. Philip says it is clear that, one way or another, the “vast majority” of wineries will be anticipating a good run through vintage. “That doesn’t mean everything is repaired, of course. But it means they have workable solutions, so are anticipating a normal harvest.”

Seismic Resilience Almost all of New Zealand’s wine regions are vulnerable to seismic activity, says one of the academics behind a proposed study looking at the industry’s seismic resilience. Lincoln University tourism academic Joanna Fountain says the cross-sector research, which is in development and seeking funding, would look at the ability of New Zealand’s wine industry and supporting sectors to recover from a large seismic event. That meant analysing everything from winery engineering and stainless steel availability to business resilience and tourism impacts, she says. “We are aware that most of the wine industry in New Zealand is what would be described as seismically quite high risk.” The research would look to enhance the earthquake resilience of winery operations and wine regions through the

18 / Winepress March 2017

development and application of practical tools and strategies. University of Auckland Professor of Structural Engineering Jason Ingham is also part of the funding bid, along with experts from Massey University, Landcare Research and GNS, supported by New Zealand Winegrowers (NZW), Ministry of Primary Industries and winery engineer Will Lomax (see Q&A). Jason says the team will also produce a small information booklet for NZW, giving winery operators simple facts about preparing for and responding to an earthquake. Anyone wishing to participate in the research initiative should contact Joanna Fountain at Joanna.Fountain@ lincoln.ac.nz

Anchoring Marlborough - Q &A with Will Lomax. After seeing the damage to Marlborough’s wine industry following the 2013 Seddon earthquake, engineer Will Lomax set to work on a solution that would protect wine and tanks as well as life. The result is the Onguard seismic tank system, which dissipates energy to protect the tank and its contents in the event of an earthquake. How does the Onguard system work? The Onguard seismic system incorporates energydissipating replaceable fuses within the anchors placed around the base of the tank. The entire system, including the concrete foundation, is designed by structural engineers to ensure that the sacrificial fuses protect all other elements of the tank system, including catwalks. What kind of work have you been doing since the earthquake? Following the earthquake, Onguard has been checking and replacing sacrificial fuses on Onguard tanks and retrofitting the Onguard system to traditionally designed tanks to introduce earthquake protection. We’ve expanded our product range to include a solution for existing tanks on thin concrete slabs. We are also pioneering an effort alongside academic institutions, learned bodies and insurers to make

The Earthquake Relief Fund The Government has allocated $4 million for a Primary Industries Earthquake Relief Fund to help towards repair costs for some uninsurable infrastructure repairs across the Hurunui, Kaikōura and Marlborough districts. It is open to those who make their primary income from growing grapes and have suffered uninsurable damage to infrastructure. For more information go to www.mdc.govt.nz.

Will Lomax

performance-based systems such as Onguard mandatory. Is the wine industry doing enough to protect itself from shakes? No, current compliance methods are based on building codes that are based on life safety and have no regard for protection of property. In fact, current methods encourage damage as a means of energy dissipation – clearly not appropriate for high-value assets such as tanks and wine. What more do you think could be done? Minimum compliance standards should be reviewed and demand earthquake performance that protects property as a minimum requirement. There should be better integration of design and construction of tanks, catwalks and building work, involving close collaboration between designers and tradespeople.

Winepress March 2017 / 19

Generation Y-ine Amber Parker’s grapevine science is aimed at the field and the future. DR AMBER Parker has one foot in the old world and another in the new, uses data from the past to model for the future, and has several questions posed for every one she answers. And that’s just the way she likes it. The Lincoln University Lecturer is an expert in grapevine phenology modelling, canopy management to influence maturation, and the potential consequences of climate change scenarios on wine production, as well as adaption strategies for the future. It’s a career that began with a summer holiday vineyard job during her Bachelor of Science at Canterbury University, where Amber saw biochemistry at work amid the vines. That inspired her to focus on applied science and in 2006 she undertook a master’s degree in France, where she carried out a project modelling the phenology of the grapevine. Amber collaborated with European researchers to develop the Grapevine Flowering Veraison (GFV) model, which uses temperature to determine the timing of flowering and veraison, helping predict the implications of climate change on phenology. She completed and implemented the model during her PhD at Lincoln, while also investigating modelling maturation, through which she continued to work with the French team. She worked in Marlborough as well, researching the phenology response to canopy trimming of Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc vines in the region. The study saw her working closely with viticulturists and growers, as well as scientists at Plant & Food Research Marlborough, including her mentor Dr Mike Trought. 20 / Winepress March 2017

On the completion of her PhD, Amber found herself continuing with research in the region as part of a three-year project led by climate scientist Professor Andrew Sturman. That study combined climate models with grapevine phenological models – including GFV - to predict the timing of flowering of Sauvignon Blanc in different parts of Marlborough. She says collaborating with individuals and organisations around the world, from Lincoln and Marlborough to Bordeaux, Avignon and Harvard, allows for far greater achievements. On a practical level, collaboration with European researchers opens up a wealth of historical data, and the opportunity for two vintages in a year. But the various collaborations, here and abroad, also offer a wealth of ideas and a spectrum of models, from the broad brush of the GFV, to the regional insights required by the Marlborough project. In each case, the teams pose questions then find “new and innovative ways to do things that can then be quickly taken up by the industry”, she says. Last year Amber was one of 160 scientists at a conference in Bordeaux, looking at ways to adapt to the impacts of climate change on the wine industry. Earlier, compressed wine harvests and increased sugar

concentration in grapes at harvest time are just two of the significant issues facing wine growers. She says solutions may include a shift in vineyard areas or varieties, or using canopy management techniques to delay ripening. “What we were saying is ‘we know climate change exists, so let’s start looking at potential solutions’,” she says. She finds teaching a “refreshing” part of her work that provides important feedback for research, with students asking questions around the influence of climate change and water resource management, for example. “It gets you thinking about great things,” she says. “Dynamic is the best way to describe it. It’s a lot of fun as well.” The scientist predicts a bright future for New Zealand’s wine industry, with quality wines, strong innovation and a world leading sustainable wine growing programme, along with “dynamic research”. The future of that research is bright too, she says. “There is always the next question to answer, and that leads you to the next question you want to ask.”

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The Block Clos Henri exemplifies a French family’s love of terroir. SOPHIE PREECE

WHEN LIONEL Bourgeois dug a handful of soil from a Wairau Valley sheep farm, he knew a long journey was over. After 10 generations growing grapes in Sancerre, and a decade searching the world for new terroir, his family had found a place that would grow Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc unique to its corner of the world, 20,000km from home. “The Bourgeois family make terroir wine and in the Marlborough area you have the terroir,” says the viticulturist, sitting beneath the golden hills of Clos Henri, 17 years after that day. In Sancerre, the family’s soils tend towards chalk, and their vines climb the hills above Chavignol. But at this Wairau Valley block, which was then 3km from the closest vineyard, they found a combination of clays, reflecting both Marlborough’s Southern Valleys and Wither Hills characteristics, as well as free draining greywacke soil. More than the promise of the soils, and the appeal of a mixed terrain of wide flat spaces and gently sloping hills, the land immediately evoked the “feeling” Lionel and his family had been seeking. The search for a terroir to 22 / Winepress March 2017

complement their Sancerre vines had taken the Bourgeois family to Argentina, Chile, South Africa, Australia and New Zealand’s North Island, before they headed south. “And when we arrived in Marlborough we tasted some wine and said, ‘it is very good. There is typicity in the wine’,” says Lionel.

“The Bourgeois family make terroir wine and in the Marlborough area you have the terroir.” Lionel Bourgeois That was February 2000, and by July they had bought land for Clos Henri, knowing they would produce Sauvignon Blancs and Pinot Noirs from the clay and from the stones, the hills and the flats, exploring the

variables of land and variety. It was also important to the family that the wine be its estate’s own style, says Lionel. “We want to make a style of wine that is our style. We don’t make Sancerre in Marlborough and Marlborough in Sancerre.” Despite their confidence that the land would speak through the wine, the family’s first taste was still a surprise. “We found there was potential and fruit expression that we had found nowhere else before,” says Lionel. Since 2000, he has visited Marlborough each year for one week during summer, and another during the harvest, spending time amid the vines and people of Marlborough and Clos Henri. He admits decision-making can be very difficult, because the soil and climate are so different from Sancerre, and he relies heavily on his people on the ground in Marlborough. “I am the boss, but this is a team. For me that is very important.” Vineyard Manager Fabiano Frangi holds regular Skype meetings with Lionel during the year, and says the advantage of the viticulturist’s infrequent visits is the changes he recognises in the vineyards from year to year. “I am not able to see the

differences, as for me they are too slight, too slow. But through Lionel’s feedback, we can see if the changes in management are yielding the right outcome.” Fabiano led the vineyard through organic conversion, achieving certification in 2013, and from there to biodynamics. It was “a natural way to make better wine,” he says. “It helps to express your terroir, if you want to make the best possible product out of that piece of land.” Clos Henri has around 45ha of vineyard on 110ha of land. Livestock is brought in and out as needed, and areas are protected for biodiversity, including 13ha of native trees and forests planted beyond a hillside of vines. Organic certification has not yet been viable for the Bourgeois family in Sancerre, despite running part of their vineyard fully organic. Over there a single hectare is considered a big block, and the vineyards are widely dispersed, making the logistics

of certification too complicated. Nor is the climate there as forgiving, says Fabiano, on a breezy Marlborough day. “All viticulture is easier here than in Sancerre. Look at today - sunny and windy – when all the diseases that attack the grapevine like shade and wet.” He and Lionel agree it was an obvious choice for Clos Henri. “It was just Fabiano Frangi, left, and Lionel Bourgeois too easy to not go for it. We are truly finding out new, and describes his role, spanning year after year that the vines are in Sancerre and Clos Henri, as “living the balance.” Meanwhile, the team enjoys dream”. His family love New Zealand the philosophy, Fabiano says. “We are for its unique nature and the special going from the land to the wine and relation people have with it. And they it just makes sense.” It is also about have taken their place in Marlborough keeping Clos Henri healthy for the because of a love of the land and of the future. “This is a family. They want concept of terroir, he says. “Otherwise the land to be able to produce quality we would have found something closer product for generations to come.” than 20,000km away.” Lionel says every time he visits New Zealand he learns something

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Biosecurity Watch What should a high health vine look like? EDWIN MASSEY

IN THE September issue of Winepress, I wrote of the advantages to both individuals and the wider industry of using vines certified under Version 3 of the Grafted Grapevine Standard (GGS) to plant your vineyard. This month’s column explores in more detail what “high health” vines certified under the GGS should look like, and highlights the importance of excellent viticultural practice and a suitable environment to ensure a quality crop and exceptional wine. Physical specifications - check your vines on delivery New Zealand Winegrowers (NZW) encourages all our members to use vines certified under the GGS. However, just because you have purchased certified vines, it does not guarantee that 100% of these vines will grow as expected or produce a bumper crop in a timely manner. From time to time isolated issues regarding vine quality do occur. The best time to check on whether there are any issues with your vines is prior to planting. At this time, other factors such as the quality of the viticulture or environmental factors can be removed from consideration. It makes sense to check an appropriate sample of the total number of vines you have purchased. This isn’t a fixed percentage, but the total number

checked should get larger depending Viticulture and the environment – on the size of your order. Primarily, they’re really important! this check will help to ensure the Even the best high health vines vines are consistent with section 4 won’t grow without due care in of the GGS regarding their physical planting and skillful and appropriate specification. In summary, these viticulture. Moreover, even the specifications put in place quality best vines with the best viticulture standards on: won’t lead to the best outcome if • The length, breadth and the vineyard environment is not curvature of the vine conducive to growing high quality • The quality of the graft union grapes. If you need advice on how • The quality of the root stock to take the best care of your vines Be prepared to get your hands dirty: post planting, please ask for help. Investigate the quality and size of Many nurseries provide growers with the root mass, measure the breadth guidance on aftercare post planting, of the stem, examine the graft union and there are several reputable for damage and give it a pressure test. Be aware that the GGS permits deviation from required physical specifications of up to 2% of samples from all grafted plants in a specific lot or batch. This margin is put in place to recognise that grafted grape vines, as living products, will show a natural variety around a mean value. On the left: a vine with angle of scion outside GGS specifications; On the Right: an ideal vine with minimal curvature

IF YOU SEE ANYTHING UNUSUAL

CATCH IT . SNAP IT . REPORT IT . Call MPI biosecurity hotline 0800 80 99 66 24 / Winepress March 2017

viticultural consultants who can provide advice as needed. What should I do if I have concerns? If, following your sample, you don’t think your vines are up to standard, contact the nursery you purchased them from and let them know your concerns. It is important to have the conversation with your nursery, to form an ongoing business relationship with them and seek resolution if required. If you have serious concerns about the ongoing quality of vines being sold as GGS certified vines, please contact me at NZW. Feedback opportunities NZW works with a Technical Review Group (TRG) of nurseries, wine industry members, independent consultants and research scientists to ensure the GGS provides sufficient assurance to growers, viticulturists, winemakers and other stakeholders

and consumers, that certified vines are high health. At the most recent TRG meeting in February the group decided that the GGS should be strengthened by including an opportunity for purchasers to provide feedback on the physical specification requirements, should they think they are not up to the standard. New Zealand Winegrowers will work to develop and publicise this feedback mechanism by May 2017. It’s the vine, not the nursery The GGS certified the grapevine itself rather than the nursery you purchase that grapevine from. That means nurseries can still sell a range of vines. Second grade vines have been produced using the same procedures and standards as GGS certified vines throughout the growing season, however have generally failed to meet the physical specifications required by the GGS. NZW encourages members to reduce the risk and make sure you

specify that you want certified high health vines. If in doubt, look for the logo. Conclusion and next steps NZW will work to promote grower education on section 4 of the GGS and will include a session on “what to look for” at the Bragato conference later in the year. All nurseries that are members of the Vine Industry Nursery Association (VINA) would welcome questions about the benefits of buying vines certified to the GGS. If you need more information on the GGS, download the factsheet summary at www.nzwine.com or contact me on Edwin.massey@nzwine. com or 021 1924 924. And if you see something unusual in the vineyard: Catch it; Snap it; Report it - to the MPI biosecurity hotline on 0800 80 99 66.

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Winepress March 2017 / 25

Industry news

Vintage Traffic Detours through the Wairau Valley will complicate harvest traffic this vintage, say Police. Senior Constable Paul McKenzie says the closure of State Highway 1 south of Kekerengu will reduce the usual harvest pressure on Weld Pass, and place pressure on SH63 instead. High volumes of freight and tourist traffic have been using the country road since the November earthquake saw traffic diverted from SH1, and the addition of harvest vehicles will inevitably bring congestion. To complicate matters, drivers coming from Christchurch are frequently frustrated by the longer than usual route by the time they get to Marlborough, says Paul. Constant work to repair the roads also means there are now fewer places to pull off

26 / Winepress March 2017

and let traffic past, he says. “It will be interesting. But as long as the harvest crews are doing all they can, that’s all we ask.” Paul spoke to drivers and transport companies at a Wine Marlborough pre-harvest field day late last month, sharing compliance information and safety briefings. He will also visit contractors and some wineries in the lead up to vintage, as well as talking to trucking companies. Calling on Young Viticulturists The Bayer Marlborough Young Viticulturist of the Year 2017 competition is on in Blenheim on July 6, with entries open until May 31. The national competition is in Marlborough on August 29, and the winner will go on to compete in the Young Horticulturist of the Year competition. For more information on the regional event, contact Wine

Marlborough Events Manager Georgie Leach at georgie@wine-marlborough. co.nz or 03 577 2391. Leadership Course Organisers of the Kellogg Rural Leadership Programme and the Nuffield Scholarships are calling for more applications from the viticulture sector. The Kellogg Rural Leadership Programme is an established and recognised leadership programme designed for those working in the primary industries, including horticulture, viticulture, forestry, dairy, red meat and seafood. General Manager Anne Hindson says there has been increased interest from the wine sector in recent years, with viticulturists using the course to strengthen their understanding of primary sector strategy, nationally and globally, to better understand the political and economic context they operate in, and to enhance their leadership skills. The next course starts on June 20, 2017, with applications open until March 20. Applications for January and June 2018 courses open soon. Go to www.kellogg.org.nz for more information.

Accommodation St Andrews Property Group has sought resource consent to develop another 24 residential units and a Vinepower office at Blenheim’s St Andrews motel. Group spokesperson Richard Olliver says the new managed facility will provide pastoral care for up to 418 Recognised Seasonal Employer scheme (RSE) workers for Vinepower. The investment recognises the shortage of purposebuilt accommodation for seasonal wine workers, he says. “They are currently typically accommodated in lower quality rental properties and motels in Blenheim. At St Andrews, the intention is that the RSE workers will be accommodated in a managed facility specifically developed for their needs, providing a higher standard of accommodation and pastoral care.” According to a Labour Survey released by Wine Marlborough early last year, the region’s wine industry is set to grow by 6444 hectares by 2020, requiring a 24% increase in worker numbers. That has ramped up concern over the shortage of accommodation in Blenheim. Early last year Aaron Jay of contracting firm Hortus bought the 196-bed Duncannon worker accommodation to house his increasing numbers of seasonal staff. Meanwhile John Sowman, who bought Bings Motel in mid-August, is taking advantage of accommodation demand for seasonal labour. Marlborough District Council Economic Development Manager Neil Henry says several other people are in talks with council about potential developments, including one large facility outside of Blenheim. With discussions around development contributions and other issues still on the table, those accommodation projects are at the research stage, with land still to be purchased in some cases. However, Neil is impressed by the alacrity of the response to last

Looking Beyond A new Marlborough exhibition shines a light on the vines, lines and energy of Seaview in the Awatere Valley. Photographer Jim Tannock and writer Helen Simpson collaborated on the Beyond exhibition, pairing evocative photos and poetic words to celebrate the landscape of Yealands Estate. Jim, who provides the imagery for the Winepress cover each month, says Seaview is one of the most photogenic places he has known, cut by the hills and energised by the sea, with a light that’s “fundamental” to the images of the exhibition. “I have spent nine years photographing it, and it still holds interest,” he says. The Beyond exhibition, was at the Marlborough Art Society Gallery until early March, and is now on display at Yealands Estate. year’s labour survey. “I didn’t expect them to have responded so fast.” Real Estate Update The number of vineyard sales reported has reduced in the lead up to harvest, with only the odd smaller vineyard selling with larger dwellings, says Joe Blakiston of PGG Wrightson Real Estate “It’s more for the lifestyle factor, and prices in that area are very buoyant with $280,000 per planted hectare achieved.” Larger blocks are likely to become available post-harvest, he says. “Larger companies are actively looking for land for planting to cover overseas Sauvignon Blanc sales growth in the next two or three years.” Meanwhile, demand for vineyards in the Awatere has slowed, “as the effects of the earthquake on this area have affected buyer perception”. Leadership Week The last two winners of the Bayer Young Viticulturist of the Year competition met some of New Zealand’s industry leaders last month, in a jam packed Leadership Week.

The 2015 competition winner Caleb Dennis, and 2016 champion Cameron Price, travelled to the Wairarapa, Nelson, Auckland and Central Otago, to meet with wine industry pioneers, New Zealand Winegrowers’ executives and board members, and Meat Board Chief Executive Tim Ritchie. They also sat in on a rehearsal of the Auckland Philharmonia Orchestra, to learn how conductor Giordano Bellincampi brings together more than 70 people for a harmonious result.

CLASSIFIEDS For Sale: 2017 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc Approx 50 + tonne , low cropped 2 cane fruit, from award winning vineyard. Processing capacity available with crop. Phone 572 4023, please leave a message 021 0414 368 Wine brand for sale Successful boutique Marlborough wine brand for sale. Sauvignon blanc and pinot noir with distribution in major US markets and other countries. Consistently well-reviewed by top wine publications. Please send inquiries to MarlboroughWineBrand@ gmail.com. Grape Press For Sale: Diemme AR34 NSA. Good condition, capacity 2.3tn whole bunch, 8tn red marc. Includes hopper, press tray, spare bag. Contact: john@ chardfarm.co.nz

Winepress March 2017 / 27

Brought to you by

Wine Happenings A monthly list of events within the New Zealand wine industry.

To have your event included in next month’s Wine Happenings or Industry News pages, please email details to sophie@sophiepreece.co.nz by March 20. For more information on the events below email Harriet Wadworth at harriet@wine-marlborough.co.nz

MARCH 2017 11: Framingham Harvest Party 20: Applications due for Kellogg Rural Leadership Programme www.kellogg.org.nz 31: Deadline for applications to the Primary Industries Earthquake Relief Fund MAY 2017 5: International Sauvignon Blanc Day #sauvblanc 10: Grower Workshop – Location T.B.C. 13: Saint Clair Vineyard Half Marathon - Marlborough 31: Applications close - Bayer Marlborough Young Viticulturist of the Year Competition JUNE 2017 1: Tractor Skills and Training course - www.reapmarlborough.co.nz 26: Organic and Biodynamic Winegrowing Conference - Blenheim 29: GrowSafe & Approved Handlers Certificate - www.reapmarlborough.co.nz

Harvest Party - March 11

Sauvignon Blanc Day - May 5

Saint Clair Vineyard Half - May 13

INDULGE IN OUR GOURMET RESTAURANT OR SOAK UP THE SUN IN OUR MEDITERRANEAN GARDEN BISTRO! Why not treat yourself to a pre-vintage night out at the famous Gourmet Restaurant! Alternatively, soak up the sun in our beautiful Bistro Garden, indulge in Hans’ eclectic artisan wines or chose a treat from one of the largest International wine lists in New Zealand.

28 / Winepress March 2017 6

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Crop loads place great demand on the vine up until harvest, so assisting the accumulation of essential carbohydrates for next season is important to build strong buds and healthy foliage. In the earlier part of the season, there tends to be low transpiration and cool soil temperatures, therefore limiting the uptake of Nitrogen applied early spring. Nitrogen required to sustain vine growth to about the 4-5 leaf stage is thought to be provided largely from reserves stored in the vine from the previous season. Immediately post harvest, the vine builds carbohydrate reserves within the plant structure for the following spring. Nitrogen is a key macro-nutrient important for such functions as: plant growth, carbohydrate production, photosynthesis and chlorophyll production, promotion of strong fruit buds, and good flavour and aroma compounds in the wine. Work in Marlborough would suggest that a 10 tonne/ha crop of Sauvignon Blanc removes approx 7kgs elemental Nitrogen (fruit only). Therefore applying approx 10 -20L/ha N 400 is replacing this N removal Aim to apply as soon as possible post harvest during the active period of new root flush (when the plant is very demanding of carbohydrates) before the vine shuts down for the season. This period of new root development is very critical, as it is predominantly the new roots which will be instrumental in allowing optimum uptake of water and key nutrients next spring.

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Winepress March 2017

Articles inside

ANZ Wine Happenings

Industry News

Gen Y-ine - Amber Parker

Biosecurity Watch