Winepress - November 2023 by Winepress Magazine

ISSUE NO. 347 / NOV 2023

LO-NO GROWS

GOOD GROWERS

THE OFFICIAL MAGAZINE OF MARLBOROUGH WINE

FIRE RISK

INDEPENDENT WINEMAKERS

Photo: Jim Tannock

marlboroughwinenz.com

Martinborough, 247 Mahaki Road Large scale viticulture development -NOW SOLD Located on the fertile plains South Martinborough township on Mahaki Road lies this 152.3 hectare flat easily developed property offering 127 hectares more or less of excellent viticulture land with a sizeable water right. The area has produced award wining wines for many years, and our client saw the potential to secure a significant piece of tightly held land in this proven grape growing region with viticulture developmental plans in the pipelines. -Congratulations to both parties on the sale-

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Lifestyle and income combined Multiple income streams 3.4ha of Sauvignon Blanc 2.5 x 1.8m rows Rolling grape supply agreement 50 x 20m reservoir Consecutively planted vines Amarillio frost fan Further plantable land

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12 16

Whitehaven

this issue...

REGULARS

FEATURES

3 4

10 Wine Show

Editorial - Sophie Preece

Refined and thoughtful winemaking techniques have been celebrated by judges at the 2023 Marlborough Wine Show, sponsored by QuayConnect.

Vantage Point – Duncan Shouler

20 Y-ine – 26 Generation Nick Lamain

Wine Story – Glenn Thomas

12 Business for Good

Watch – 28 Biosecurity Sophie Badland and Dr Paul Epee

34 Industry News 36 Wine Happenings Cover: John and Sally Flanagan donate grapes to Borough, a collaborative Marlborough wine brand that helps fund the Graeme Dingle Foundation in Marlborough. “It’s incredible to see the wine we help make being used in such a positive way,” Sally says. Photo Jim Tannock. See page 16.

Increased awareness of the environmental and social impact of doing business is leading many Marlborough wine companies to take a long-term approach to business operations.

22 Independent Winemakers

Jordan Hogg, founder of tiny independent label Atípico, talks of a critical mass of small producers, and a market excited by their wines. “The enthusiasm in the group about where we are at is amazing.”

Winepress November 2023 / 1

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General Manager: Marcus Pickens 03 577 9299 or 021 831 820 marcus@winemarlborough.nz Editor: Sophie Preece 027 308 4455 sophie@sophiepreece.co.nz Marketing and Communications: Sarah Linklater 021 704 733 sarah@winemarlborough.nz Events Manager: Loren Coffey loren@winemarlborough.nz Advocacy Manager: Nicci Armour advocacy@winemarlborough.nz Advertising: Joanna May advertising@winemarlborough.nz Grape Grower Directors: Andrew Nation nationa@gmail.com Bryn Cotching breezemere@hotmail.com Michiel Eradus michiel@eraduswines.co.nz Nigel Sowman nigel@dogpoint.co.nz Tracy Johnston tracy@dayvinleigh.co.nz Wine Company Directors: Beth Forrest beth@forrest.co.nz Damien Yvon damien@closhenri.com Drew Ellis drew@mggcoop.co.nz James Macdonald james@hunters.co.nz Jamie Marfell Jamie.Marfell@pernod-ricard.com Designed by: Blenheim Print Ltd 03 578 1322

Disclaimer: The views and articles that

are expressed and appear in Winepress are entirely those of contributors and in no way reflect the policy of the Marlborough Winegrowers. Any advice given, implied or suggested should be considered on its merits, and no responsibility can be taken for problems arising from the use of such information. This document is printed on an environmentally responsible paper, produced using elemental chlorine free (EFC), third party pulp from responsible sources, manufactured under the strict ISO 14001 Environmental Management System and is 100% Recyclable.

From the Editor Neal and Judy Ibbotson came up with a name for their wine company while eating hokey pokey ice cream with their children on a cold winter’s night. It’s a story that encapsulates much about these Marlborough wine pioneers, who’ve taken Saint Clair Family Estate to stellar heights while remaining resolutely down to earth. The Ibbotsons have been working hard, with great humour and humility, since they bought a block of land near Blenheim, to grow pigs in the early years of their married life. When Marlborough’s first vineyards were planted a few years later, half a century ago this year, they jumped in boots and all to become growers and pioneers of a province-transforming industry. The kids who helped name the company in 1994 are embedded in Saint Clair, and the family is truly entwined in the fortunes of our region.

This is a region and an industry rich with audacious entrepreneurs, skillful leaders, curious scientists, and wonderful winemakers and viticulturists. Neal and Judy – who were presented the Wine Marlborough Lifetime Achievement Award in 2020 – have been named as 2023 New Zealand Winegrowers Fellows for their extraordinary influence on New Zealand wine, recognised at the Altogether Unique - A Celebration event on November 1, along with Dr David Jordan, Peter Holley, and Mal McLennan. This is a region and an industry rich with audacious entrepreneurs, skilful leaders, curious scientists, and wonderful winemakers and viticulturists, and it is always wonderful to see their extraordinary efforts recognised. This month the 2023 Lifetime Achievement Awards will be presented at the Marlborough Wine Show Celebration Evening, which is also a celebration of 50 years of Marlborough wine. The celebration will reveal trophy winners in the Marlborough Wine Show, sponsored by QuayConnect, including subregional trophies and the Legacy Award, which this year has wine legend Oz Clarke on the judging panel. It’s a month rather dedicated to celebrating success, in a year dedicated to celebrating 50 incredible years. This edition of Winepress also celebrates the good work of wine companies determined to do better with their social and environmental impact. From social enterprise The Borough, helping fund the Graeme Dingle Foundation, to Whitehaven Wines’ tree planting plans, there’s plenty of inspiration for other companies wanting to grow a business for good. SOPHIE PREECE

Winepress November 2023 / 3

EDUCATE

Vantage Point

Duncan Shouler

The rise of Giesen’s Low-No wines DUNCAN SHOULER

WE ARE a family-owned business, founded by brothers Theo, Alex and Marcel Giesen in 1981, so have been making award-winning wines for more than 40 years. We are known for our innovation, dynamism, and consumer-centric approach. Our diverse wine portfolio caters to all occasions, ranging from ultra-premium fine wines to no-alcohol alternatives. Recognising the global consumer shift towards moderation and mindful drinking, we embarked on our Noand Low- alcohol journey more than three years ago. Our commitment to innovation and quality led to the creation of the world’s first alcohol-removed Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc under our Giesen 0% brand. Responding to increasing global demand, we expanded that range to include popular wine varietals Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Rosé, Riesling and Merlot, and recently introduced our new 0% Sparkling Brut. What distinguishes our no-alcohol wines is the meticulous attention we pay to ensure they are low in calories, low in sugar and true to varietal style. We start with a full-strength base wine, using premium New Zealand grapes carefully selected by our winemaking team during harvest, ensuring the production of high-quality, greattasting, low calorie, no-alcohol wines. When we first launched our Giesen 0% Sauvignon Blanc, we had initially identified very distinct, defined consumer target audiences for 0% wine: designated sober driver, health-conscious adults, attendees of work lunches/ events, and the elderly. We did not target consumer groups

of pregnant or breastfeeding women, or those who abstain from alcohol for religious or addiction reasons. However, we quickly discovered a broader consumer audience for 0% wine. Our primary consumers were regular wine drinkers who were increasingly health-conscious and wanted to moderate their alcohol consumption on certain social occasions. They often swap out full-strength with 0% wine for some social occasions. These consumers still want to enjoy the taste of wine, but they don’t want the after effects of alcohol. Global consumer research indicates that Millennials and Gen Z are driving the growth of the no and low alcohol category. According to the IWSR No- and Lowalcohol Strategic Study, the category surpassed $11 billion in 2022, with a forecast volume CAGR of +7%, 2022-2026. This increase is spearheaded by the growth of no-alcohol products. Gen Z, in particular, abstains from alcohol the most. Millennials focus on a healthy lifestyle and enjoy beverages that offer health benefits, seeking high-quality products for unique and memorable experiences. Millennials are influenced by recommendations from peers and influencers.

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4 / Winepress November 2023

The vitamin and mineral content of TCKP Natural Kelp Tea analysed by Cawthron Research Institute | September 2012 Analysis

Result

Units

Crude Protein

0.6

g/100

Aluminium

5.5

mg/kg

Arsenic

2.6

mg/kg

Boron

4.8

mg/kg

Copper

mg/kg

Iron

mg/kg

Magnesium

290

mg/kg

Nickel

0.66

mg/kg

Phosphorus

120

mg/kg

Potassium

3000

mg/kg

Rubidium

1.2

mg/kg

Strontium

mg/kg

Zinc

7.0

mg/kg

Gen X and Baby Boomers prioritise health by avoiding ‘bad for you’ food and beverages, favouring familiar flavours in traditional wine formats, and are influenced by brand reputation. Each consumer group has distinct reasons, occasions, and motivations for consuming 0% wine. It’s a matter of refining these for each group and leveraging them across marketing campaign touchpoints. Through every digital and social campaign for Giesen 0% in our key export markets (USA, Australia, and New Zealand), we continually refine our audience set, motivations, and occasions for consuming no-alcohol wines. It has been a fascinating journey to witness how the 0% consumer audience has grown and evolved, encompassing a wide target audience from young to older consumers.

Observing the evolution of the no alcohol category since our first launch more than three years ago has been intriguing. Witnessing the increasing acceptance of consumers incorporating no-alcohol products into their lives and the evolving consumer base and occasions for no-alcohol wine has been a gratifying experience. It’s heartening to witness the growing social acceptance of these products in various social occasions globally. Our Giesen 0% has become the leading premium noalcohol wine brand in the United States (>$12 USD) and New Zealand (by value), garnering numerous global wine awards across the range. We remain committed to innovation within the category – stay tuned for more exciting developments. Duncan Shouler is director of winemaking at Giesen Group

High growth in no alcohol A 2022 study by IWSR Drinks Market Analysis found that the category for no- and low-alcohol surpassed $11 billion in value that year, with consumption expected to increase by a third by 2026. No alcohol wine would spearhead that growth, expected to account for more than 90% of the forecast total category volume growth. The study, which focussed on the markets of Australia, Brazil, Canada, France, Germany, Japan, South Africa, Spain, the United Kingdom, and the United States, concluded that the “dynamic” no/low alcohol category presented opportunities for incremental sales growth “as consumers are recruited from drinks categories such as soft drinks and water. “As more people opt to avoid alcohol on certain occasions – or abstain from it altogether – no alcohol is steadily increasing its share of the no/low category, said Susie Goldspink, head of no and low alcohol, IWSR Drinks Market Analysis. “No alcohol is growing faster than low alcohol in most markets.” theiwsr.com

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MET REPORT Table 1: Blenheim Weather Data – October 2023 October October 2023 October Period October 2023 compared to LTA of LTA 2022 LTA GDD’s for month -Max/Min1 99.2 94% 105.8 (1996-2022) 99.4 GDD’s for month – Mean2 110.4 98% 113.1 (1996-2022) 106.8 Growing Degree Days Total Jul – Oct 23 – Max/Min 176.8 91% 193.3 (1996-2022) 225.6 Jul - Oct 23 – Mean 244.0 100% 244.6 (1996-2002) 265.3 Mean Maximum (°C) 18.9 +0.5°C 18.4 (1986-2022) 18.0 Mean Minimum (°C) 7.2 -0.7°C 7.9 (1986-2022) 7.8 Mean Temp (°C) 13.1 -0.1°C 13.2 (1986-2022) 12.9 Grass Frosts (<= -1.0°C) 3 0.9 more 2.1 (1986-2022) 3 Air Frosts (0.0°C) 0 Equal 0.08 (1986-2022) 0 Sunshine hours 277.5 120% 231.1 (1986-2022) 247.7 Sunshine hours – lowest 140.7 1983 Sunshine hours – highest 299.6 1969 Sunshine hours total – 2023 2003.0 99% 2018.6 (1986-2022) 1985.5 Rainfall (mm) 32.6 58% 56.1 (1986-2022) 16.8 Rainfall (mm) – lowest 2.3 1961 Rainfall (mm) – highest 161.0 2001 Rainfall total (mm) – 2023 4254 78% 545.6 (1986-2022) 709.2 Evapotranspiration – mm 107.1 104% 103.0 (1996-2022) 109 Avg. Daily Windrun (km) 264.3 92% 286.5 (1996-2022) 248.2 Mean soil temp – 10cm 12.9 +0.9°C 12.0 (1986-2022) 12.0 Mean soil temp – 30cm 14.0 +0.3°C 13.7 (1986-2022) 13.5 1GDD’s Max/Min are calculated from absolute daily maximum and minimum temperatures 2GDD’s Mean are calculated from average hourly temperatures

Temperature The mean temperature of 13.1°C was 0.1°C below the long-term average (LTA) for October of 13.2°C (1986-2022). As indicated in table 2 the mean maximum temperature for October was above average whereas the mean minimum

temperature was below average. The daily range in temperature was 1.3°C greater than the LTA due to the relatively clear skies during October. The warmest maximum temperature of 25.5°C was recorded on 13 October 2023. The coolest minimum air temperature of +0.6°C was recorded on the morning of 28 October. However, the coldest ground frost temperature of -3.1°C was recorded at the start of the month on the morning of 1 October.

Growing degree-days Figure 1 shows how the growingdegree day line progressed for the first two months of the 2023-24 growing season in comparison to the immediately preceding four seasons. The 2011-12 is also included as a very cool early season contrast. The black GDD line for the start of the 2023-24 season started very warm in the first three weeks of September. However, cooler than average temperatures in late September and for periods in October brought the GDD deviation line back down to sit close to the 2021-22 and 2022-23 lines at the end of October. The 2020-21 GDD line was sitting well above the other seasons at the end of October. The other lines indicate that GDDs were well above average in November 2019, November 2021 and November 2022. NIWA are

Table 2: Weekly weather data during October 2023 Mean Mean Max Mean Min Ground Rainfall Sunshine (°C) (°C) (°C) Frosts (mm) (hours) 1st - 7th 12.3 (-0.9) 19.0 (+0.6) 5.7 (-2.2) 3 2.4 69.4 8th - 14th 14.2 (+1.0) 20.1 (+1.7) 8.2 (+0.3) 0 1.2 68.1 15th - 21st 12.4 -0.8) 18.2 (-0.2) 6.6 (-1.3) 0 28.0 51.7 22nd - 28th 13.4 (+0.2) 18.1 (-0.3) 8.7 (+0.8) 0 1.0 57.7 29th – 31st (3 days) 13.0 (-0.2) 19.6 (+1.2) 6.4 (-1.5) 0 0.0 30.6 1st – 31st 13.1 (-0.1) 18.9 (+0.5) 7.2 (-0.7) 3 32.6 277.5 October 2023 0.9 more (58%) (120%) (92%) October LTA 13.2 18.4 7.9 2.1 56.1 231.1 (1986 – 2022) LTA – Long Term Average 6 / Winepress November 2023

Windrun (km) 257.0 314.3 218.4 297.3 193.7 264.3 286.5

at the end of October. The 2020-21 GDD line was sitting well above the other seasons at the end of October. The other lines indicate that GDDs were well above average in November 2019, November 2021 and November are not predicting a high for chance of above average temperatures for the 3not predicting2022. such aNIWA high chance of above average such temperatures the 3-months from November 2023 until January 2024 months from November 2023 until January 2024 as they were one year ago for November 2022 to January as they were one year ago for November 2022 to January 2023. Therefore, we should probably not expect the GDD line to 2023. we should probably not expect GDDseasons. line to climb as high in November 2023 as in climb asTherefore, high in November 2023 as in those previous threethe La Niña those previous three La Niña seasons. Figure 1: Normalized Growing degree days for Blenheim: days above (+) or below (-) the long-term average for the period 1 September to 31 December

Figure 1: Normalized Growing degree days for Blenheim: days above (+) or below (-) the long-term average for the period recorded over the 4-days from 14 to 17 October. While the 1Frosts September to 31 December October 2023 total was only 58% of the LTA it was very close Three ground frosts were recorded in Blenheim in October to double the October 2022 total of 16.8 mm. The average 2023, only slightly above the LTA of 2.1 ground frosts for October rainfall for the 10 years 2014 to 2023 is only 32.3 Frosts October. No air frosts were recorded in Blenheim. When a mm, 58% of the October LTA. October 2021 is the only groundground frost is recorded (any recorded temperature to or below Three frosts were in equal Blenheim in October 2023, only slightly above the LTA of 2.1 ground year in the last 10, when October has recorded well above -1.0°C at a height of 2.5 cm above a mown grass surface), the frosts for October. No air frosts were recorded in Blenheim. When a ground frost is recorded (any average rainfall. grass frost temperature between 5°C lower temperature equal to is ornormally below -1.0°C at3aand height of 2.5 cm above a mown grass surface), the grass frost Wind than the minimum air temperature, recorded in than a temperature is normally betweenwhich 3 andis 5°C lower the minimum air temperature, which is recorded in a There has been a lot coverage thethe Stevenson screen at a height of 1.4 m; e.g. the minimum air Stevenson screen at a height of 1.4 m; e.g. the minimum air temperature onof1news October wasregarding 1.7°C and current El Niño weather conditions that New Zealand is temperature on 1 October was 1.7°C and the grass minimum grass minimum temperature was -3.1°C, a difference of 4.8°C. However, the minimum air temperature on andgrass what that will mean foronly the coming temperature -3.1°C, (the a difference 4.8°C. However, Saturday 28was October coldestofminimum for October)now wasexperiencing 0.6°C and the minimum was -0.5°C, months. El Niño normally means more drying winds from the minimum air temperature on Saturday 28 October (the a difference of only 1.1°C. I would suggest that if there had been the normal difference of 3 to 5°C between the westerly quarter. What was the outcome in October coldest minimum for October) was 0.6°C and the grass the air and grass temperatures on 28 October, then the grass temperature should have been closer to -3.7°C, average daily wind-run was 264.3 km. This was minimum was only of only 1.1°C.frost I would which would have-0.5°C, been aa difference much more serious event2023? than The occurred. Given the fairly clear skies during the October LTA (1996-2022) of 286.5 km. There suggest that if there had been the normal difference of 3 to October 2023 I think that Marlborough was fairly lucky 92% thatofmore frosts were not recorded. were 11 days during October 2023 when the daily wind-run 5°C between the air and grass temperatures on 28 October, was above the LTA. Average wind speed was 11.0 km/hr, then the grass temperature should have been closer to Sunshine compared to the LTA of 11.94 km/hr. We tend tothnotice the -3.7°C, which would have been a much more serious frost Blenheim recorded 277.5 hours sunshine during October 2023, 120% of the LTA. This is the 8 sunniest windy days, but we forget all the other days without a lot of event than occurred. Given the fairly clear skies during October on record over the 94 years 1930 to 2023, and the sunniest October since 2002. October 2023 I think that Marlborough was fairly lucky that wind during the month. At the end of October 2023, we are about one month into an official El Niño. However, average more frosts were not recorded. Rainfall daily wind run for October was still below the LTA. During Sunshine The October 2023 rainfall total of 32.6 mm was 58% ofthethe forevent October of 56.1 26.42015 mm of that lastLTA El Niño in 2015-16, themm. October average Blenheim recorded 277.5 hours sunshine during October total was recorded over the 4-days from 14 to 17 October. While the October 2023 total was only 58% of the daily wind-run of 300.1 km was above average. 2023, 120% of the LTA. This is the 8th sunniest October on

LTA it was very close to double the October 2022 totalMoisture of 16.8 mm. The average October rainfall for the 10 Deficit record over the 94 years 1930 to 2023, and the sunniest years 2014 to 2023 is only 32.3 mm, 58% of the October LTA. October 2021 is the only year in the last 10, The moisture deficit for October 2023 was -74.5 mm, (32.6 October since 2002. when October has recorded well above average rainfall. mm rain – 107.1 mm potential evapotranspiration). This was Rainfall The October 2023 rainfall total of 32.6 mm was 58% of the LTA for October of 56.1 mm. 26.4 mm of that total was

29.6 mm greater than the LTA October water deficit of -44.9 mm.

Winepress November 2023 / 7

evapotranspiration). This was 29.6 mm greater than the LTA October water deficit of -44.9 mm.

Soil Moisture Figure 2 displays the shallow soil moisture (5 to 35 cm depth) at the Grovetown Park weather station. Between 28 September and 14 October 2023, the soil moisture rapidly dropped from 39.8% to 28.5% from well above to well below average. However, 26.4 mm rain over the 4-days from 14 to 17 Octobe Soil Moisture saw soil moisture from 28.5% todepth) 33.7%. rainfall 15-day delay28in declining soil Figurethe 2 displays the shallow rise soil moisture (5 to 35 cm at theThat Grovetown Park gave weathera station. Between September and 14 October 2023,29 the October, soil moisturewhen rapidlythe dropped 39.8% to was 28.5%,back from well aboveto to 28.5%. well belowWithout that 26 moisture, through until soilfrom moisture down average. However, 26.4 mm rain over the 4-days from 14 to 17 October saw the soil moisture rise from 28.5% That fashion to th mm rain the green soil moisture line for 2023-24 would have continued to droptoin33.7%. similar rainfall gave a 15-day delay in declining soil moisture, through until 29 October, when the soil moisture was back down to yellow line for 2022-23. As mentioned in previous articles, the shallow soil moisture virtually always 28.5%. Without that 26.4 mm rain the green soil moisture line for 2023-24 would have continued to drop in similar fashion drops rapidly during October andinNovember. It the takes a large amount of rain to drops boost the soil moisture to the yellow line for 2022-23. As mentioned previous articles, shallow soil moisture virtually always rapidly aduring sustained at this timea large of the year; e.g.toover thesoil 16-days 26 October tothis 10time November 202 October period, and November. It takes amount of rain boost the moisture from for a sustained period, at of the year; e.g.mm over the 16-days 26 October to 10line). November 2020 when 64.6 mm rain was recorded (blue line). when 64.6 rain was from recorded (blue Figure 2: Shallow soil moisture (5-35 cm depth) at the Grovetown Park weather station in Blenheim 50

2020/21

2021/22

2022/23

2023/24

LTA

1Feb 1Mar

1Apr 1May 1Jun

% moisture

40 35 30

25 20 15 10 1Jul

1Aug 1Sep 1Oct

1Nov 1Dec

1Jan

Figure 2: Shallow soil moisture (5-35 cm depth) at the Grovetown Park weather station in Blenheim Rob Agnew Plant & Food Research – Marlborough Research Centre

Rob Agnew Plant & Food Research / Marlborough Research Centre

8 / Winepress November 2023

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CELEBRATE

Wine Show Refined and thoughtful winemaking on show CHARDONNAY WAS a “super standout” of the Marlborough Wine Show, sponsored by QuayConnect, says guest judge Stephen Wong MW. “There’s just something about the kind of Chardonnays that Marlborough is making, which is right on point with where the world’s palates are converging. It’s a great opportunity if we can make the most of that.” A panel of 17 judges tasted more than 550 entries in late October, and awarded 46 gold medals to wines across Marlborough’s subregions, including 13 for Sauvignon Blanc, nine for Pinot Noir and seven for Chardonnay. Guest judge Emma Jenkins MW applauded the ability of winemakers to produce quality wines across the board, particularly following some challenging recent vintages. “What I really liked about some of the wines from those vintages was that winemakers had been really sensitive in the way they handled the fruit.” The guest judges agreed that the show wines demonstrated Marlborough’s ability to produce worldclass wines of all varieties. “Marlborough is obviously really known for its Sauvignon [Blanc], and rightly so,” Emma says. “But I’m just consistently amazed by the range, and the quality of Marlborough. It’s a special place to grow grapes and make wine.” The “thrilling” line up of wines was a true showcase of wine excellence in Marlborough, says chief judge Stu Marfell. “The level of quality and thoughtful winemaking that we have here in Marlborough is impressive. Our wines have a true sense of place, they are uniquely Marlborough but they’re also worthy of international praise.” More than 400 medals were awarded in total, and 37 of the 46 gold medal winning wines are also eligible for a

New Zealand Young Winemaker of the Year 2022 Alun Kilby. Photo Richard Briggs

“The level of quality and thoughtful winemaking that we have in Marlborough is impressive.” Stu Marfell. subregional trophy. Another 84 wines make up 28 entries in the New Zealand Wine Centre Legacy Award category, sponsored by Marlborough Research Centre, which is designed to celebrate wines with pedigree, awarding the wine producer with the highest scores from three vintages within a 10-year period and a minimum gap of two years between each vintage. Guest judge Oz Clarke will be joining Stu and Ben Glover to assess the category entries in early November. Trophy winners for all categories will be announced at the Marlborough Wine Show Celebration Evening, which is also a celebration of 50 years of Marlborough wine, taking place on November 17.

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10 / Winepress November 2023

CELEBRATE

Celebrating Sauvignon IT’S MORE than half a century since Bill and Ross Spence planted vines that would make Marlborough world famous. On November 16 this year, Matua – a wine company founded by the Spence brothers and now owned by Treasury Estates – will celebrate the astounding impact of Sauvignon Blanc on New Zealand’s wine industry. The first 400 bottles of commercial New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc – grown by the Spences in Kumeu – were produced in 1974. Within a decade, Sauvignon Blanc had changed the way the world looked at New Zealand wine, and particularly that of Marlborough. The celebration in Marlborough, where the wine industry turned 50 this year, will include a ceremonial planting of new Sauvignon Blanc vines at the Spence vineyard, and recollections of the intrepid pioneers who seeded a phenomenon. In the October 2023 edition of Winepress, Bill Spence wrote of the brothers’ incredible journey, and its extraordinary impact on an entire industry. “Every person who has worked for the Spence brothers, and Matua, should take a bow,” he wrote. “It was them who helped Ross and I fulfil our vision to make this new unique style of Sauvignon Blanc world famous.” Matua senior winemaker and site manager John Ashwell says it’s “a very special privilege” to be a part of such an iconic brand. “Everyone who works at Matua is fully aware of the trailblazing efforts of Bill and Ross – giants of the industry whose footsteps we follow. Today we send Matua Sauvignon Blanc around the world and it’s all thanks to their drive and innovative thinking”.

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Whitehaven has purchased land to regenerate with native wetland and forest

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Business for Good Working better for future generations KAT PICKFORD

WINE COMPANIES intent on deepening their environmental and social commitments were represented at the recent ‘Business for Good’ workshop held in Blenheim. The Business for Good programme is run by New Zealand Trade and Enterprise and the not-for-profit network B-Lab. Marlborough was the first region to host it outside the main centres. The idea for the workshop came from the Marlborough Circular Wine Group and was supported by Wine Marlborough and the Marlborough District Council (MDC) Economic Development Team. Whitehaven Wines chief executive Steve Ross says the programme, which aims to have a positive impact on people and the environment while helping business evolve,

organisations that provide sustainability certification. Its certification process measures a company’s social and environmental impact and provide certainty to customers that the business is meeting a high standard of performance, accountability and transparency. Steve understands the process of gaining B-Corporation certification is rigorous and is excited to analyse the true impact of Whitehaven's social and environmental efforts and discover what more the company could do. “It’s another tangible thing we can do to demonstrate that we’re not just talking the talk,” he says. “It not only provides a framework of reference for us, but internationally renowned credentials for our distributors and customers that shows

“If we want to be world leaders, we need to keep doing more and keep innovating.” Lindsay Parkinson resonated with the wine company’s people-first ethos. “A key part of our approach at Whitehaven is to make sure we are doing the right thing,” Steve says. “We didn’t start out to do it for marketing. It’s been very much a ground-up push by our staff; an expectation that we look after our people and make sure the business and the environment continues to thrive for the next generation.” Their philosophy has led to many projects in recent years, including internally tracking carbon emissions, establishing a diversity, equity and inclusion committee, and purchasing a property in the Wairau Valley to regenerate with native wetland and forest. There’s a growing awareness of the power businesses have to positively impact social and environmental issues, Steve says. “As we’ve progressed along our journey, we’ve come to realise how cool it is that we’re making a difference, and we want to share that story to inspire more change. The question is, how to articulate it in a meaningful way that resonates with people as a genuine purpose.” B-Corp is one of many independent third-party

12 / Winepress November 2023

we’re an ethical company with a genuine story.” Rose Family Estate chief executive Lindsay Parkinson says the Rose family has been farming their land for more than 150 years. Now long-term planning and constant innovation is needed for that legacy to continue. “We want future generations to continue to do the same, so the idea around doing the right thing for the environment, our employees and the community is a no-brainer.” Rose Family Estate, which was also part of the Business for Good workshop, is a longtime supporter of the Blenheim Musical Theatre, as well as providing financial support for other organisations, including the Rapaura Tennis Club, Nelson Marlborough Rescue Helicopter, Inspire Foundation and the Ronald McDonald House. Lindsay says while they receive requests for support “almost every day”, the company decided many years ago to support a select few generously, rather than spread themselves too thin. “The idea is to give that little bit more so they can have a real leg up, rather than just a couple of bottles of wine,

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I really believe we all should be doing more.” Lindsay says consumers are more sustainability-savvy than ever, and demand transparency and clarity from companies. That means wineries need to approach ethical storytelling with caution. “If we want to be world Siobhan Wilson leaders, we need to keep doing more and keep innovating. We need to be able to tell our story in a compelling, clear and concise way, otherwise we’re in danger of being accused of greenwashing.” When it comes to the environment, many wineries have gone beyond the minimum requirements of Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand for many years, but could do better in sharing their stories with customers and the community, he adds. “When the wine industry first started having that sustainability conversation way back in the mid-90s, we were way ahead of others, locally and internationally.” Marisco Vineyards was also at the Business for Good workshop. General manager sales and marketing Siobhan Wilson says the company has been working on sustainability “quite intensely” over recent years, with the growth of their business and team. “I think Covid and the last few years have highlighted just how important staff wellbeing is and that their welfare is a vital part of business. This has resulted in a number of new initiatives that support and enhance employee wellbeing, including career

“It’s about protecting our land and our legacy for the future, not just selling cases of wine.” Siobhan Wilson development opportunities, maintaining work-life balance, and ensuring everyone feels heard and included.” While the company doesn’t have any formal partnerships with community organisations, it contributes to a variety of groups, including the Graeme Dingle Foundation and local schools and sports groups through their staff, as well as making the station available for rural activities such as horse treks and dog trials, she says. “In its heyday, Leefield Station was a big part of the rural community and Brent [Marris, Marisco Vineyards owner] has a strong vision for the property to once again be a hub for the farming community.” She agrees that sustainability stories need to be approached with care. “Our hands are being forced a bit by customers who want to know that they are supporting companies with ethical practices,” Siobhan says. “We’re not just marketing our brands now, we’re talking about ourselves as a company and we need to decide how to have those conversations, because it’s about protecting our land and our legacy for the future, not just selling cases of wine.”

Doing better The Better Half wine has become the founding sponsor of a conservation group working with a “biodiversity hotspot” on Marlborough’s east coast. “The more I’ve learned about the group, the more I’ve been impressed by how much this group of landowners and volunteers have been able to achieve on fairly limited resources,” says The Better Half owner and winemaker George Elworthy. “It is fantastic if we can play a small part in supporting their ongoing conservation work.” The East Coast Protection Group (ECPG) was formed in 2017, after the 2016 Kaikōura earthquake uplifted intertidal land, increasing pressure on wildlife and the landscape between Marfells Beach and Ure River Valley. Their work to reduce predator numbers, increase native plantings and raise awareness about the special plant and animal communities in the area saw the conservation group awarded the Landscape and Habitat Enhancement award at the recent Cawthron Marlborough Environment Awards.

14 / Winepress November 2023

The 42km stretch of coastline is home to threatened species that include the banded dotterel, black-fronted terns, Kiwaia ‘Cloudy Bay’ moth, katipo spider, coastal tree broom (Carmichelia muritai), and sea holly (Eryngium). It is also an important resting point along the migration path for godwit and ruddy turnstones, and a haul-out area for seals. EPCG treasurer Will Parsons says the sponsorship gives them impetus to continue monitoring and predator control work. “It’s a wonderful thought that every time someone enjoys a glass of The Better Half wine, nature will benefit.” thebetterhalfwine.com

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Winepress August 2023 / 15

CELEBRATE

Good Wine Building a better Borough KAT PICKFORD

A COLLABORATIVE Marlborough wine brand that donates 100% of its profits to local youth development has launched the 2023 vintage with a fresh new label. Borough Wines was launched in 2020, as the brainchild of Lion New Zealand national operations director Geoff Matthews and Graeme Dingle Foundation Marlborough manager Kelvin Watt. For the 2020 vintage, grapes were donated by five Marlborough families, while the wider wine industry – including winemakers, wine transporters and bottlers – contributed their time and resources to support the cause. John and Sally Flanagan, and Susie and Ben Glover have donated fruit from their shared vineyard since the first vintage, seeing the impact from vines to classroom. “As growers, growing strong, healthy, resilient vines is all we think about,” John said at the 2023 vintage release last month. “So it’s only natural that we partner with a foundation that aims to grow strong, resilient children.” They have experienced the impact of Graeme Dingle firsthand through their own children, “and feel very lucky to be raising kids in Marlborough”, John says. “Wine’s a big part of this town… we will be a part of Borough Wine as long as we are grape growers.” Sally, who is a teacher at Redwoodtown School, sees the results of Kiwi Can, the Graeme Dingle Foundation programme for primary school children, in the classroom. “Kiwi Can leaders are fun, when they walk through the playground they stop and talk to the kids, they know everyone’s name and have built a real connection with them.” The programme also teaches important life skills such as resilience, teamwork and communication, and values including integrity and respect, which link with the school’s values, she says. “It’s incredible to see the wine we help make being used in such a positive way.” Since its inception, the award-winning wine has continued to evolve, with more growers, wineries and other industry partners joining forces in a bid to give back to the community and the next generation. For the 2023 release, Lion New Zealand (Wither Hills), Marlborough Vintners and their growers provided the grapes and winemaking for the Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Rosé, with Indevin Group, a new partner, donating the Pinot Gris wine. Mark Unwin is the board chair of Socially Good Enterprises, which was established to produce and sell Borough Wines. He says the board is thrilled to see more individuals and organisations across the wine industry 16 / Winepress November 2023

John and Sally Flanagan. Photo Jim Tannock

and beyond showing their support. “It’s great to see wine companies that might in their daily business be competitors joining together.” The rebranding was part of an overall strategic plan of Socially Good Enterprises, to ensure sustainability of the wine label and provide some certainty of income for the Graeme Dingle Foundation year-to-year, he says. All profits from sales of Borough wines, which are available online and at selected retailers, go to the Graeme Dingle Foundation Marlborough.

“It’s incredible to see the wine we help make being used in such a positive way.” Sally Flanagan Kelvin Watt says the funding is integral to the foundation’s delivery of programmes that reach about 50% of Marlborough’s young people (more than 3,500), facing unique challenges in today’s fast-paced technologically driven world. “Our young people need to learn skills and strategies to develop into resilient people who can cope and thrive amongst this ongoing evolution and disruption,” Kelvin says. “The Graeme Dingle Foundation programmes support the development of these skills and values, so our youth can overcome the challenges they will inevitably face in life.” boroughwine.co.nz

CELEBRATE

Sound of Summer THE DANCEFLOOR is ready for the third Sound of Summer celebration in the Waihopai Valley on November 18. Catalina Sounds winemaker Matthew Ward says the event, held in the Sound of White vineyard, is a chance for Marlborough families to visit a stunning part of the region, just 20 minutes from Blenheim. “It’s a really good family-friendly afternoon showcasing our Catalina Sounds wines with local food and beverage producers, and great music to top it off”. The Vinyl in the Vines DJ collective will be joined by an array of musicians this year, with Marlborough musician Midge McCleary, singer-songwriter Hannah Dell, and string quartet group Rosso, who’ll play contemporary music with classical instruments. Catalina Sounds wines will be on sale, along with Lawson’s Dry Hills Rosé and Boom Town Beers, Boom Chef BBQ (also DJ Boom) will team up with Cloudy Bay Clams, and Mamma Lou’s will offer plant-based delights. Dancing Sands Distillery is coming over from Golden Bay for the event, while Italian cheese producers ViaVio are bringing in their wares from Nelson. It’s $15 a ticket, with children under the age of 16 free. Buses are available from Blenheim for an additional $15. catalinasounds.co.nz

“It’s a really good familyfriendly afternoon showcasing local food wine and products.” Matthew Ward

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Winepress November 2023 / 17

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Tasman’s 2300ha Pigeon Valley Fire, in February 2019, was sparked by an agricultural contractor discing a rocky paddock.

Fired Up Wildfire risks heats up with El Niño SOPHIE PREECE

NEW ZEALAND winegrowers should be vigilant around fire risk this summer, with rising global temperatures and a return to El Niño conditions increasing wildfire concerns. El Niño tends to bring hotter and drier weather, especially in eastern areas of the South Island, including Marlborough, Canterbury and Otago. Fire Emergency New Zealand wildfire investigator Jeff White says the return to “normal” fire season conditions, after the two-to-threeyear period of cooler and wetter weather under La Niña, increases the threat of direct and indirect fire or smoke damage to vineyards. “High temperatures and low humidity can create an environment conducive to wildfires,” Jeff says. These risk factors could be exacerbated by good vegetative growth over the wet winter and spring, along with the potential for increased westerly wind. “The combination of dry fuels and stronger drying winds can result in extended periods of very high to extreme fire risk. This means that

wildfires are more likely to occur and can spread rapidly.” Jeff attributes the increase in wildfire behaviour and the extension of wildfire seasons around the world to a combination of factors, including increased temperatures and changing climatic conditions driven by climate change. “In New Zealand, as in many other regions, these changes are having a significant impact on the frequency and severity of wildfires.” That’s in part due to hotter conditions drying out soil moisture and vegetation, making areas more susceptible to ignition of wildfires and their spread. “El Niño events can exacerbate these conditions.” With higher temperatures and drier conditions becoming more common, the wildfire season in New Zealand is likely to extend beyond what has been historically experienced, lasting for longer periods each year.

Safeguarding vineyards from wildfire JEFF WHITE Options to mitigate the risks associated with wildfires in vineyards: • Firebreaks and Defensible Space: Creating firebreaks and maintaining defensible space can help protect the vineyard and structures from wildfires. These should be undertaken before conditions dry out. • Early Warning and Evacuation Plans: Develop early warning systems and evacuation plans in case a wildfire threatens the vineyard. • Maintain Equipment: Ensuring ‘hot’ areas of machinery are kept clear of dry vegetation, daily inspections should become part of the daily pre-work procedures. • Spark Hazardous Operations: Activities such as chainsaw, brush cutting, welding, or grinding operations should be limited to the cooler periods of the day. Between 12pm and 6pm is a high-risk period and any potential spark emitting operation should cease during this time. Always have a water source on hand to quickly deal to any fire starts. • Monitor the Weather: Be aware of ‘spike’ days. These are days of extremely hot, dry, and especially windy conditions where wildfire potential is at its greatest. • Old Burn Piles: Recheck old burn piles from the spring period. We have experienced fires reigniting weeks and even months after the original burn occurred if the right conditions occur. Clear areas around all burn piles back to mineral soil if possible and douse completely with water, recheck on a regular basis for any heat build-up.

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Winepress August 2023 / 19

CELEBRATE

Wine Story Curiosity about the science of fermentation drew Glenn Thomas to teenage winemaking. He talks to SOPHIE PREECE about bad apple wine, good landscape photography, and the Awatere Valley’s first Sauvignon Blanc. GLENN THOMAS was 15 years old when his homefermented honey mead knocked his friends for six. “One of the guys’ parents wouldn’t talk to me for about a month,” he recalls, some 50 years on. “It was quite bad.” But he didn’t falter in his fermentation, fascinated by the chemistry behind the apple and pear wines he was creating at his home in South Australia. His parents seldom touched alcohol and he was underage, “but I was really into it”, Glenn says. Most of them were “pretty dreadful”, but he spent hours trawling through library books to discover new techniques and recipes. Loving the process rather than the product was probably an unusual way to get into winemaking, Glenn says. But a year into his microbiology degree at the Institute of South Australia, he detoured to Roseworthy for a degree in oenology, and “found a whole world I didn’t know about”. The 1977 class was full of students embedded in the industry, apart from one other outsider. That was Kevin Judd, who went on to be founding winemaker at Cloudy Bay in Marlborough. “So we discovered it together.” The two aspiring winemakers, who also shared a passion for photography, became good friends at Roseworthy, and when Kevin moved to New Zealand in 1983, Glenn and his partner Sharon visited them near Auckland, before exploring the North Island. “I loved the place as a country,” Glenn says. He also loved its wines, with the first New Zealand white he tried, while at Roseworthy, proving a revelation. “I could not believe how much flavour it had.” He also clearly recalls trying one of Kevin’s early New Zealand vintages – probably a Semillon Sauvignon – “and it was amazing”. Wines from New Zealand’s cool climate vineyards stood out compared to the hotter South Australian areas he was familiar with. “I tried these New Zealand wines and thought, ‘aha!’ It was so obvious. I thought, ‘that’s me - I am going there’.”

“To me those grapes were so good. I could see the quality and flavours and I was blown away by it.”

20 / Winepress November 2023

Glenn Thomas In 1985 he and Sharon packed up everything they had in a container and moved, “as you do in your 20s”. He worked for Corbans first, living in Gisborne and working with some of the first vintages of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc fruit, under the Stoneleigh label. “To me those grapes were so good. I could see the quality and flavours and I was blown away by it.” But he regretted the 24-hour journey from Marlborough vine to Gisborne winery, so spoke to Kevin, who was establishing Cloudy Bay in Marlborough, and negotiated some space in the winery for Corbans’ premium wines. After three years at Corbans, Glenn was invited to join Vavasour Wines in pioneering the Awatere Valley as wine country. The Vavasour family had started planting vines on their farm in 1986, assisted by viticulturist Richard Bowling, who was compellingly confident about the valley’s prospects, Glenn says. The region was untested for wine, but the winemaker spoke to local farmers, looked at climatic data, and decided it was “worth the risk”, joining Vavasour for the winery build in 1988. In 1989 he made the valley’s first wine – a “very good” Sauvignon Blanc. “The flavours were different, but they were still really intense.” The Awatere’s potential intrigued him, including the river terraces he and Sharon looked over from their cottage in the upper Awatere Valley. “You could see where the vineyard would go. You could visualise it.” The cottage and

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land belonged to the Turnbull family, who proved easily convinced over a few bottles of wine, seeding Tūpari Wines, a partnership between the two families. The vineyard was planted with Sauvignon Blanc in 2002, followed by Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Riesling. Glenn made the first Tūpari wine as a side project when he was at Vavasour, “with their blessing”, and left his day job in 2007 to dedicate himself to Tūpari and consultancy work. Tūpari remains “small and manageable”, while the Awatere Valley is now the second largest grape growing area in New Zealand, after the Wairau Valley. Over the past four decades, photography has offered an escape from the pressure and regularity of winemaking. “At one point I worked out I knew what I would be doing at

different times of the year for my whole working life,” Glenn says, listing the cycle of budburst, growth, ripening, harvest and winemaking, all on seasonal repeat. “I like it that its creative but different to my job. I think if you are going to be a good winemaker you need good balance in your life… It is a distraction and it keeps you fresh.” Glenn is also known to many as a “muso”, although his drum kit tends to sit quietly these days, unless his son Aidan – also a musician – visits from Wellington. “When he comes home, he gets the guitar out to indulge his father.” Five decades on from those first fierce ferments, Glenn is quietly cutting back on wine work. But there are, he assures me, no plans for homemade honey mead.

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CELEBRATE

Independent Winemakers

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Rockferry winemaker Jordan Hogg and his partner Kim Lawson launched their tiny wine label Atípico in 2021. In October, they and five other small producers showcased their wines together in Wellington. He tells us why. What was the Marlborough Independent Winemakers’ Party? It was a collaboration of likeminded winemakers who wanted to showcase the diversity, creativity and possibilities that are available in Marlborough. Puffin is a favourite wine haunt when in Wellington and was the perfect place as a first step to show the wines as a group to trade and the public.

Do you share more than marketing collabs? We are a diverse group with our own stories and philosophies towards winegrowing. The thing that brings us together is a passion for Marlborough wine, made authentically and transparently. It was great to get together and talk wine styles, favourite subregions and vineyards. We all have our own approach to these things and it is amazing to hear everyone’s stories. Some of the biggest learnings were discussions around the business aspect of having a small wine business, so it is great to be able to share experiences. We are all skilled winemakers, but personally the business side of things has been a learning curve.

How did Atipico begin? Making my own wines has always been in the back of my mind; I knew I wanted to do something different if I got the chance. There are things I knew I had to do, including handpicking, organic fruit, ingredient labelling on the labels for transparency, pushing boundaries and showcasing another side of Marlborough. I joined Rock Ferry Wines in 2020, just before Covid-19 hit, and in 2021 I had the chance to make some wine on the side, with the support of Rock Ferry and my family, and Atipico was born. It is a family affair – my brother’s partner Pippa painted the labels and helped with label design. We couldn’t do it without help picking, bottling, labelling, waxing and packing. It is hands-on and labour intensive, but we love it. What’s the philosophy behind the wines?

What’s the philosophy behind the wines? My first wine describes the philosophy best. I had the chance to make some wine from a small block behind the 22 / Winepress November 2023

Rock Ferry winery in Rapaura. It is planted with Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc and it used to be an orchard, so there are some plum trees dotted throughout in a nod to the land’s past. I decided to make a wine around this story, so with family and friends we handpicked the three varieties and put them straight into the fermenter in the vineyard. The wine is a co-ferment field blend, fermented in the vineyard, which I tongue in cheek coined vinsitu. It is definitely atypical, and my key focus was making something delicious with an interesting story while walking the tightrope of avoiding being gimmicky. The resulting wine was vibrant and complex and hugely successful. Thus, the debut wine Under the Plum Tree was born.

What’s happening with independent winemaking in Marlborough? There seems to be a critical mass of fellow small producers making these exciting wines and a market really wanting these wines, which demonstrate another side to our region. The enthusiasm in the group about where we are at is amazing, and it is hard not to feel like this is an inflection point for this movement we might look back at in the future. We believe Marlborough is an incredible place for cool climate winemaking, with the terroir to make wines with vibrancy, precision and complexity.

What does it add to the region? When I tell the stories about Atípico I always share that I am incredibly proud of Marlborough wines and how far we have come as an industry and region. However, there is one style of wine which dominates the industry, along with some negative perceptions in the market about a narrow spectrum of wine styles. We want to showcase the diversity and quality that is possible in Marlborough. There are other stories to be told and we want to tell them with the wines we love making.

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Whitehaven

Model Vineyard Good returns for Marlborough grapegrowers SOPHIE PREECE

“It’s interesting to note that this is the first year the Sauvignon Blanc price has returned to the pre-2008 levels.”

GOOD WEATHER, crops and grape price yielded a bumper financial outcome for most Marlborough grape growers this year, according to the 2023 Vineyard Monitoring Report. The report, which is produced by New Zealand Winegrowers and the Ministry for Primary Industries, reveals that the 2022/2023 Marlborough vineyard model, created via financial data from around 50 Marlborough vineyards, achieved the second highest economic vineyard surplus on record at $16,765 per producing hectare, up 44% on the fiveyear average. Fruition Horticulture’s Greg Dryden, who has worked on the vineyard model since 2007, says that’s thanks to an average grape yield of 13.9 tonnes per hectare, and an average grape price of $2,475 per tonne. “It’s an excellent result, driven largely by the good yields,” says Greg. “It’s interesting to note that this is the first year the Sauvignon Blanc price has returned to the pre-2008 levels.” However, return on investment is still under pressure due to increasing land value and spiralling costs, Greg says. The model vineyard’s working expenses increased by 9% in the 2022/2023 season, with labour expenses a major aspect of that continued rise. In the latest growing season, increased wage rates were exacerbated by the need for more spray rounds and canopy management in response to regular rainfall, while grape growers also faced rising prices for sprays, fuel and fertiliser.

24 / Winepress November 2023

Greg Dryden Nonetheless, morale amongst the survey grower group was mostly good, with the increasing costs far outweighed by good yields and prices, says Greg, noting a “very positive vibe”. Growers indicated that they would use the cash surpluses from the high performing past two seasons to pay down debt, upgrade vineyard machinery to more efficient and multi-function models, and invest in mechanisation to combat rising labour expenses. Despite the positive results, growers raised “watch outs” around continued increases in expenses, including labour supply. And Greg notes that since the survey, some growers have raised concerns about the potential impact of two years of good supply and slower exports in recent months. Greg will present the results for the 2023 report at the New Zealand Wine Centre - Te Pokapū Wāina o Aotearoa on November 8, from 3.30pm to 4.15pm, before the Marlborough Winegrowers AGM. To read the full report, go to the members section of nzwine.com

PROJECT

Bronze bugs beat it to Blenheim CATHIE BELL A newly confirmed invasive pest in Marlborough does not affect grapevines directly, but could have a significant impact on the Marlborough landscape. Steve Pawson, from the University of Canterbury School of Forestry, says the bronze bug eats eucalyptus trees, which are a big part of Marlborough’s rural landscape, with many planted around 100 years ago near houses, buildings and other infrastructure. New Zealand Winegrowers Biosecurity & Emergency Response Manager Sophie Badland says the bronze bug does not affect vines, but treatment of any affected trees near vineyards could have implications for Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand certification because of the chemical residue restriction periods. “It goes to show that anything happening around vineyards, even if it’s not directly affecting grapes, can potentially have an impact.” She says vineyard staff need to have situational awareness so that anything odd around the vineyards, even if it’s not affecting grapes, can be assessed before it becomes a big problem. Given the widespread nature of the bug in Marlborough and New Zealand, the Marlborough District Council is not planning any pest control for the bronze bug. Steve says the best way to treat affected trees is through chemicals, with the most effective one not available in New Zealand. The alternative, Ripcord, was only effective in short bursts, and would have witholding period restrictions on any nearby vineyards, particularly as treating large trees would require drones or helicopters. The bug was first detected in New Zealand in March 2012 during surveillance activities in Auckland by Biosecurity New Zealand. A decision was made to not attempt eradication and since then bronze bug has progressively dispersed through the North Island and now to the South Island. The bug was discovered in Marlborough by University of Canterbury staff commissioned by the Marlborough Research Centre, after many anecdotal reports of impacts to eucalyptus species. Steve says the bugs tend to do better in warmer conditions, so the impact is likely to be higher during this El Niño summer. The trees will be drought-stressed, so less able to cope with bug infestation, and the warmer weather means there are likely to be more of the bugs. At this stage, it wasn’t clear if the bugs would kill the trees, but they could make the trees sick enough to drop limbs. “I have seen trees looking very sick.”

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CELEBRATE

Generation Y-ine

Nick Lamain

KAT PICKFORD

ON PAPER it looks as though Nick Lamain was on an obvious path to becoming a winemaker. Growing up in Marlborough, his first paid work as a teenager included summer jobs in vineyards, bud rubbing, wire lifting and planting new vines. But after graduating from Marlborough Boys’ College, he headed to Otago University to study science and microbiology, following a “fascination” with these tiniest of organisms, which all life on earth relies upon. With career opportunities in biotechnology, aquaculture, agriculture, medicine and more, it wasn’t until he’d finished his studies and picked up a cellar hand job for vintage back in Marlborough, that Nick realised the exciting opportunity on his doorstep. “Every job I’ve ever had has been working in the wine industry,” he says. “I enjoyed my time in the vineyard and in hindsight it has given me a huge respect for where the wine comes from and the effort that goes into producing quality fruit.” His sister Sophie Lamain and her partner Peter Russell, both winemakers, convinced him to do his first vintage as a cellar hand in 2017; a formative experience that really sparked his interest in wine as a career. “I loved it,” he says. “The fast-paced atmosphere, big team, cultural diversity, meeting all these new people from around the world. Every day was fun and we took a lot of pride in doing a good job and looking after the wine.” After his first vintage at Villa Maria, Nick spent 2018 travelling and doing international vintages in the Clare Valley in South Australia and Willamette Valley in Oregon, USA. After returning to Marlborough, he broadened his viticultural knowledge with a technical assistant role in the vineyard at Cloudy Bay, while studying for a Postgraduate Diploma in Viticulture and Oenology. In vintage 2020 he got more winemaking experience at boutique contract winemaking facility The Coterie. Nick picked up a cellar hand role later that year at the contract wine processing and winemaking company VinLink, and 18 months later was offered the assistant winemaker role. He was recently promoted to production winemaker, a huge leap in a short space of time for the 27-year-old. “Ever since I decided on wine as a career, it’s always been a goal to be a winemaker, but I never expected it to come along so quickly,” he says. “I’m really happy with the position I’m in and having the opportunity to contribute more towards all the decisions that go into making wine.” 26 / Winepress November 2023

“Sauvignon Blanc is synonymous with Marlborough; the industry has a whole has a lot to be proud of.” Nick Lamain Nick, who was runner-up at the 2023 Marlborough Young Winemaker Competition in September, says he’s enjoying the opportunity to expand his skillset beyond wine. “I’m not just making wine, there’s all sorts of things I’m involved in: quality work, health and safety and training and supporting staff. Recruitment and ensuring all our processes are in place for vintage has been a really enjoyable experience for me – an opportunity to sell Marlborough as a destination and a great place to work.” While he’s still adjusting to his new role, he’s looking forward to seeing where the next 20 to 30 years of winemaking in Marlborough leads. “Sauvignon Blanc is synonymous with Marlborough; the industry as a whole has a lot to be proud of. Going forward, we need to continue to focus on sustainability and continuing to produce worldclass high-quality wines.”

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Biosecurity Watch Weevil watch in Marlborough vineyards DR PAUL EPEE AND SOPHIE BADLAND A BRAGATO Research Insititute and New Zealand Winegrowers study has confirmed the limited presence and spread of garden weevil across Marlborough vineyards. Garden weevil (Phlyctinus callosus) is an insect pest native to South Africa and first established in New Zealand in 1893. Recent reports of weevil damage in Marlborough vineyards came from the Rarangi area in late 2020 and the garden weevil was identified as the main culprit. Garden weevil chewing damage is relatively easy to identify, particularly on leaves, which typically show a ‘shotgun’ pattern of tiny holes. Damage reports continued over the following years prompting Bragato Research Insititute (BRI) to investigate the matter on affected sites in Marlborough, Hawke’s Bay and Wairarapa, develop a weevil monitoring protocol, and publish a factsheet (bri.co.nz). Over the 2022-2023 growing season, a survey was carried out by BRI and the New Zealand Winegrowers (NZW) biosecurity team to determine the presence and spatial distribution of the weevil across the Marlborough region. BRI extension staff Dr Paul Epee and Yuichi Ando, along with NZW biosecurity advisors Jim Herdman and Kerrie Hopkins, worked with Dr Scott Hardwick, entomologist at AgResearch, to develop a methodology for sampling weevils in vineyards. Eighteen vineyards across Marlborough were randomly chosen and sampled for weevils. Using two separate modified blower vac machines, the biological material (dry grass, insects) found in the mid-row sward was sucked up over a 20-metre distance. The collected material was placed in labelled bags and stored in a chilly bin, then sent to AgResearch Lincoln for weevil identification. Sampling was conducted monthly at the period when adult weevils were most active in vineyards and their populations had peaked – November 2022, December 2022, and February 2023.

Weevil species composition and distribution Across the Marlborough region, eight weevil species were identified (listed here alongside their relative proportion over the whole period): Clover root weevil Sitona obsoletus, 72.5% (1255 weevils); Argentine stem weevil Listronotus bonariensis, 20.1% (348 weevils); vegetable weevil Listroderes costirostris, 5.14% (89 weevils); white fringed weevil Naupactus leucoloma, 0.98% (17 weevils); Fuller’s rose weevil Pantomorus cervinus, 0.64% (11 weevils); garden weevil Phlyctinus callosus, 0.52% (9 weevils); black vine weevil Otiorhynchus sulcatus, 0.06% (1 weevil); and lucerne weevil Sitona discoideus, 0.06% (1 weevil). The clover root weevil was not only the most abundant but was also the most widely spread, occurring in 16 vineyards out of 18, and was followed by the Argentine stem weevil (10 vineyards), the white fringed weevil (9 vineyards) and the vegetable weevil (6 vineyards) (Figure 1). Garden weevil, lucerne weevil and black vine weevil only appeared in one vineyard at a time, located respectively in Rarangi, Hawkesbury and South-West Seddon in the Awatere Valley (Figure 1). Although clover root weevil and Argentine stem weevil were the two most numerous and widely spread weevil species across the region, they do not constitute an immediate threat to winegrowing because they are not potential grapevine pests. However, vegetable weevil and white fringed weevil were respectively the third and fourth most numerous and widespread weevil species. These two weevil species are also potential grapevine pests. The vegetable weevil was found in Lower Dashwood, Woodbourne, Seddon and Hawkesbury. That weevil species is a polyphagous pest of vineyards as it can feed on buds, leaves, and berries. Larvae and adults live above ground and are active during the autumn, winter and spring when they cause the greatest damage to the vine. The white

IF YOU SEE ANYTHING UNUSUAL

CATCH IT. SNAP IT. REPORT IT. CALL THE BIOSECURITY NEW ZEALAND PEST AND DISEASE HOTLINE 0800 80 99 66 Email enquiries to biosecurity@nzwine.com

28 / Winepress November 2023

PROTECT

fringed and vegetable weevil followed a similar spatial distribution, except for the Wairau valley where the white fringed weevil was present and the other weevil absent. The white fringed weevil was imported from South America, discovered in New Zealand in 1940 and is a pest of establishing vineyards. Therefore, in areas where these two weevil species were detected it is recommended to closely monitor their population and activity between November and February. Spread across Marlborough and implications. The weevil species of interest in this study, the garden weevil, was only present in one vineyard located in Rarangi, and in relatively low numbers. Moreover, no other weevil species was found in that vineyard. This result seems to show that garden weevil is not widespread in Marlborough but rather located in limited isolated pockets such as Rarangi. Considering that garden weevil is a wingless insect, its dispersal occurs mainly through

Spatial distribution of eight weevil species across Marlborough. The circle size represents the total number of counted weevils at a location and a sector in the circle the proportion of a weevil species relative to the total number of weevils at that location. Weevil Species

Argentine stem weevil

Power BI Desktop

Black vine weevil Clover root weevil Fullers rose weevil Garden weevil

Lucerne weevil

Vegetable weevil White fringed weevil

vineyard machinery, transportation of soil and other biological materials (plant materials, grape and grape products), footwear and clothing. Thus, by following good biosecurity practice and restricting movement vectors (movements that potentially displace garden weevils), the spread of this pest across the region could be contained. It is recommended that further work is done to monitor the regional spread periodically (once every two- or three-year period) to ensure that it does not suddenly and unexpectedly get out of control. Vineyard owners/ managers located in the Rarangi area should be alert and closely monitoring their vineyards for Garden weevil presence and activities. Although there is currently no registered insecticide for the control of Garden weevil on grapevines in New Zealand, following the foregoing prophylactic measures will help to contain the problem within isolated blocks. The BRI factsheet on garden weevil monitoring is a useful tool in setting up a monitoring strategy. Additionally, there is work being done by agrichemical companies to test and register new products to control weevils in vineyards.

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Industry News AMW Annual Collection Appellation Marlborough Wine’s Annual Collection has been selected by an expert panel, with wine educator Jane Skilton MW, wine writer Erin Larkin, and sommelier Andrea Martinisi tasting a “the best the region has to offer”. The trio blind tasted more than 70 new release Sauvignon Blancs before determining a unanimous top 12. Blank Canvas The Appellation Marlborough Wine (AMW) Annual Collection is an opportunity to recognise world-class Sauvignon Blanc, says chair John Buchanan. “Our recent collection tasting highlighted that AMW producers are refining their house-style whilst exploring in parallel Marlborough’s subregions and single vineyard sites. The 2023 Annual Collection is a clever reflection of our dynamic wine growing region and is an attractive range of expressions and price-points.” Andrea says the tasting was a chance to explore the best the region has to offer, “tasting wines that were both traditional and avant-garde, reflecting the region’s spirit”. Jane says Marlborough gained global recognition for creating “superlative Sauvignon Blanc” in a relatively short time frame. “As the Marlborough industry strengthens (and in no small part consolidates) it is important to shine the spotlight on those upholding the core values of New Zealand wine.” Marlborough has “the distinct potential for a detailed tapestry of terroir driven wines”, adds Erin. “A kaleidoscope of individual house styles from estate to estate across the region, and a strong message to convey about the capability of Sauvignon Blanc particularly, to convey site, place and maker. This will ultimately be the basis for the Marlborough fine wine story in the future.” appellationmarlboroughwine.co.nz

Startup Success New Zealand-based agritech startup Cropsy Technologies has had a second successful funding round, raising $1.7 million in an over-subscribed capital raise. Cropsy uses automated, continuous and GPS-tracked high-definition image capture with AI-enabled software to analyse more than 30,000 vines per day in real-time. It has been designed to localise disease presence in vineyards in the earliest stages, track missing and dead vines, analyse pruning status, and count buds, inflorescences and bunches for yield estimation – all on a per-vine level. Cropsy’s capital raise attracted continued support from existing investors such as Angel Investors Marlborough, NZGCP, Icehouse Ventures, and K1W1, but also attracted its first United States investor, venture capital firm Seraph Group. Seraph Group’s founder and chief executive Tuff Yen says Cropsy applies its technology “to enhance the bottom line for growers in viticulture using machine vision and intelligent software, leading the way to a new era of improved productivity while reducing costs”. Tracy Atkin, of Angel Investors Marlborough, says it has been an extremely tough year for start-ups in a post-pandemic and recessionary environment. “For Cropsy to not only reach their target but exceed it is a testament to their team and technology. It is a fantastic achievement and one I was proud to support as lead investor for their second round on behalf of Angel Investors Marlborough.”

Advocacy Update NICCI ARMOUR The first 100 days of a new government brings a sense of anticipation, coupled with a sense of hope in some areas and apprehension in others. There is a raft of changes that a National-led coalition might bring about, including: 1. Repeal Labour’s ‘Fair Pay’ legislation. 2. Repeal Labour’s Ute Tax by Dec 31, 2023. 3. Establish a permanent Rural Regulation Review Panel to assess all regulations affecting the primary sector and propose solutions to cut red tape. 4. Repeal Labour’s RMA 2.0 legislation and introduce a fast-track consenting regime. Find details on the National party’s planned immediate actions at national.org.nz/100dayplan. The details of these changes and the longer-term plans of New Zealand’s next government will be subject to the 30 / Winepress November 2023

coalition agreement. In the meantime, New Zealand’s public servants are drafting Briefings to Incoming Ministers, which will become publicly available. Despite National’s indication that they will repeal some legislation, the legislation introduced by the Labour Government remains in effect. Until such time as any relevant legislation is repealed, it is prudent for industry businesses to remain up to date with and comply with the law. Nicci Armour is Wine Marlborough advocacy manager

Engineering Award for Marlborough winery

Stephen Cheadle

Constellation Brands and Kim Crawford Winery took two top places at the New Zealand ACE Engineering Awards in September. A Gold medal was awarded to Kim Crawford Winery’s press building and front-end automation, undertaken by Aurecon for Constellation Brands New Zealand. The major expansion to Sauvignon Blanc processing capacity was done between vintages over two years, and included reconstruction and automation to the winery’s operation, resulting in intake capacity increasing from 1,200 to 2,000 tonnes per day during harvest. The Constellation Brands New Zealand project team also won the Client Award, recognising the performance of the in-house team when working with the consultant firm, contractors on the project, and the winery operations team. Constellation Brands managing director Stephen Cheadle says the project was achieved within a restricted timeframe and in challenging circumstances through the Covid-19 years. “To be recognised alongside our partner Aurecon for the integrated planning, design and implementation to get our new press and intake automation completed and within budget is impressive. The completed project has resulted in a significant increase in the capacity of what we’re able to intake through harvest.” The design improvements have already seen business benefits by removing the single points of failure, he says. “And to have the Constellation Brands engineering team recognised alongside other notable national projects of significance is extremely rewarding.”

Caythorpe Impresses A Marlborough Chardonnay impressed judges in the New World Wine Awards, with co-chair of judges Sam Kim calling the Caythorpe Family Estate Chardonnay 2021 a “stand out”. It was Caythorpe’s first gold medal and Top 50 spot in the awards, in which it was awarded Champion Chardonnay trophy and White Wine of the Show. “The family has been farming in Marlborough for generations but has only been operating their own wine brand for the past eight years,” says Sam. “With a very small team running the wine business, one of whom also looks after the family’s cherry orchards when he’s not among the vines, this is truly toast-worthy win.” The win means Caythorpe Chardonnay will now be widely available in New Zealand supermarkets, Sam adds. “It’s a great opportunity for the brand to reach new customers, as well as a wonderful example to show how Marlborough’s breadth and depth extends well beyond its much-loved Sauvignon Blanc.” Marlborough provided five of the six winning Sauvignons as well as a dozen other wines across the Top 50’s Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, and Rosé classes.

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Please contact cullen@sugarloafwines.co.nz to arrange a winery visit or phone 021 558 558 for further details. Winepress November 2023 / 31

Wine Happenings

A monthly list of events within the New Zealand wine industry.

To have your event included in the December 2023 Wine Happenings, please email details to sophie@sophiepreece.co.nz by November 20. For more information, please go to the website supplied or email sarah@winemarlborough.nz

NOVEMBER 8 Presentation of results from 2023 Vineyard Monitoring Report From 3.30pm to 4.15pm at New Zealand Wine Centre - Te Pokapū Wāina o Aotearoa, 85 Budge Street (see page 24). 8 Marlborough Winegrowers AGM, 4.30pm at New Zealand Wine Centre. 8-12 Rapaura Springs Garden Marlborough (gardenmarlborough.co.nz) 14 New Zealand Wine Centre Scientific Research Conference (mrc.org.nz/nzwc-scientific-research-conference) 17 The Marlborough Wine Show Celebration – Honouring 50 Years of Marlborough Wine (marlboroughwineshow.com) 18 Catalina Sound’s - Sound of Summer at Sound of White Vineyard (catalinasounds.co.nz/News—Events) 23 Savour in the Park (savourmarlborough.co.nz) 29 Grow, Perform Sustain; Industry Workshop (marlboroughwinenz.com) DECEMBER 2 South Island Wine & Food Festival JANUARY 18-21 2024 Southern Pinot Noir Workshop (pinotworkshop.com) FEBRUARY 2024 10 The Marlborough Wine & Food Festival ( marlboroughwinefestival.com) 19-25 Climate Action Week Marlborough

Garden Marlborough – Nov 8-12

32 / Winepress November 2023

Industry Celebration – Nov 17

Sound of Summer – Nov 18

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